A new voyage to the Levant containing an account of the most remarkable curiosities in Germany, France, Italy, Malta, and Turkey : with historical observations relating to the present and ancient state of those countries / by the Sieur du Mont ; done into English, and adorn'd with figures.
         Nouveau voyage du Levant. English
         Dumont, Jean, baron de Carlscroon, 1667-1727.
      
       
         
           1696
        
      
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         A36827
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         ESTC R9818
         11988474
         ocm 11988474
         51983
         
           
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         (EEBO-TCP ; phase 1, no. A36827)
         Transcribed from: (Early English Books Online ; image set 51983)
         Images scanned from microfilm: (Early English books, 1641-1700 ; 560:9)
      
       
         
           
             A new voyage to the Levant containing an account of the most remarkable curiosities in Germany, France, Italy, Malta, and Turkey : with historical observations relating to the present and ancient state of those countries / by the Sieur du Mont ; done into English, and adorn'd with figures.
             Nouveau voyage du Levant. English
             Dumont, Jean, baron de Carlscroon, 1667-1727.
          
           [31], 416 p., 8 folded leaves of plates.
           
             Printed by T.H. for M. Gillyflower, T. Goodwin, M. Wotton, J. Walthoe, and R. Parker,
             London :
             1696.
          
           
             Translation of Nouveau voyage du Levant.
             Advertisement: p. [30]-[31].
             Added engraved t.p.
             Reproduction of original in Huntington Library.
          
        
      
    
     
       
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         eng
      
       
         
           Middle East -- Description and travel.
           Europe -- Description and travel.
        
      
    
     
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               A
               New
               VOYAGE
               to
               the
               LEVANT
            
          
        
      
       
         
         
           A
           New
           Voyage
           TO
           THE
           LEVANT
           :
           CONTAINING
           An
           Account
           of
           the
           most
           Remarkable
           Curiosities
           in
           
             Germany
             ,
             France
             ,
             Italy
             ,
             Malta
             ,
          
           and
           Turkey
           ;
           With
           Historical
           Observations
           relating
           to
           the
           Present
           and
           Ancient
           State
           of
           those
           Countries
           .
        
         
           
             By
             the
          
           Sieur
           du
           Mont.
           
        
         
           Done
           into
           ENGLISH
           ;
           and
           Adorn'd
           with
           FIGURES
           .
        
         
           LONDON
           ,
           
             Printed
             by
          
           T.
           H.
           for
           M.
           Gillyflower
           ,
           in
           Westminster-Hall
           ;
           T.
           Goodwin
           ,
           
             at
             the
          
           Queen's-Head
           ,
           and
           M.
           Wotton
           ,
           
             at
             the
          
           Three
           Daggers
           in
           Fleetstreet
           ;
           J.
           Walthoe
           ,
           
             under
             the
             Cloisters
             in
             the
          
           Middle-Temple
           ;
           and
           R.
           Parker
           ,
           
             at
             the
          
           Unicorn
           
             under
             the
          
           Royal
           Exchange
           ,
           1696.
           
        
      
       
         
         
         
           To
           Monsieur
           William
           de
           Schuylenburg
           ,
           LORD
           of
           Dukenburg
           ,
           Counsellor
           ,
           and
           Clerk
           of
           the
           Council
           TO
           HIS
           BRITANNIC
           MAJESTY
           .
        
         
           
             SIR
             ,
          
        
         
           I
           Have
           taken
           the
           Liberty
           to
           offer
           you
           a
           Present
           which
           perhaps
           will
           surprize
           you
           ;
           for
           we
           are
           generally
           possess'd
           with
           an
           Opinion
           that
           't
           is
           impossible
           for
           the
           same
           Person
           to
           manage
           both
           a
           Sword
           and
           a
           Pen.
           If
           I
           had
           the
           least
           Inclination
           to
           pretend
           to
           the
           Quality
           of
           an
           Author
           ,
           I
           wou'd
           endeavour
           to
           demonstrate
           the
           Vnreasonableness
           of
           that
           Prejudice
           ;
           nor
           do
           I
           believe
           that
           I
           shou'd
           find
           it
           a
           very
           difficult
           Task
           to
           perform
           .
           
           I
           cou'd
           easily
           transcribe
           the
           Stories
           of
           so
           many
           famous
           Captains
           who
           were
           equally
           remarkable
           for
           their
           Wit
           and
           for
           their
           Valour
           ;
           and
           display'd
           the
           former
           in
           their
           Writings
           with
           as
           much
           Honour
           and
           Success
           as
           they
           signaliz'd
           the
           latter
           in
           the
           most
           dangerous
           Battles
           :
           And
           from
           these
           Instances
           I
           wou'd
           conclude
           that
           the
           nearest
           and
           most
           direct
           Way
           to
           Glory
           is
           to
           follow
           the
           bright
           Tracts
           of
           those
           
             Illustrious
             Heroes
          
           .
           But
           since
           the
           Prosecution
           of
           so
           noble
           an
           Attempt
           wou'd
           require
           a
           larger
           Stock
           of
           Merit
           and
           Abilities
           than
           ever
           I
           cou'd
           boast
           of
           ,
           I
           will
           not
           be
           guilty
           of
           so
           much
           Vanity
           as
           to
           alledge
           those
           Examples
           in
           my
           own
           Vindication
           .
           Nor
           will
           I
           trouble
           You
           with
           any
           study'd
           or
           formal
           Apology
           ,
           since
           I
           'm
           confident
           You
           will
           be
           easily
           persuaded
           to
           forgive
           my
           Boldness
           in
           presenting
           You
           with
           the
           Observations
           I
           made
           during
           my
           Travels
           ,
           which
           I
           thought
           I
           might
           communicate
           to
           the
           Publick
           without
           invading
           the
           Province
           ,
           or
           provoking
           the
           Jealousie
           of
           
             Men
             of
             Letters
          
           .
           I
           made
           
           it
           my
           Recreation
           for
           some
           Weeks
           to
           prepare
           'em
           for
           the
           Press
           ,
           and
           shall
           be
           satisfy'd
           if
           they
           can
           furnish
           You
           with
           any
           tolerable
           Entertainment
           for
           some
           Hours
           .
           Your
           Approbation
           is
           all
           the
           Glory
           ,
           and
           the
           highest
           Recompence
           I
           desire
           .
           'T
           is
           true
           ,
           I
           cannot
           ask
           so
           noble
           a
           Reward
           without
           discovering
           the
           Boldness
           of
           my
           Ambition
           ;
           for
           you
           have
           so
           nice
           a
           Taste
           ,
           and
           so
           exact
           a
           Judgment
           ,
           that
           you
           never
           bestow
           that
           Favour
           but
           on
           such
           as
           merit
           Applause
           from
           all
           the
           World.
           But
           I
           encourage
           my self
           with
           reflecting
           on
           that
           Goodness
           which
           is
           so
           natural
           and
           peculiar
           to
           You
           ,
           and
           even
           presume
           to
           hope
           that
           the
           Sweetness
           of
           Your
           Temper
           will
           put
           a
           favourable
           Bias
           upon
           Your
           Judgment
           ,
           and
           incline
           You
           to
           excuse
           ,
           or
           at
           least
           to
           over-look
           my
           Errors
           .
           This
           ,
           SIR
           ,
           is
           the
           only
           Favour
           I
           beg
           leave
           to
           desire
           ;
           for
           I
           never
           entertain'd
           a
           Thought
           of
           courting
           Your
           Protection
           on
           the
           Score
           of
           so
           mean
           a
           Present
           .
           I
           know
           that
           must
           be
           obtain'd
           by
           a
           very
           different
           Method
           ;
           nor
           do
           I
           hope
           to
           procure
           
           it
           by
           any
           other
           Way
           than
           that
           by
           which
           all
           
             Good
             Men
          
           who
           have
           the
           Happiness
           to
           be
           known
           to
           you
           ,
           may
           pretend
           to
           it
           .
           'T
           is
           from
           Your
           Generosity
           alone
           that
           I
           expect
           so
           glorious
           an
           Advantage
           ,
           and
           from
           that
           compassionate
           and
           bountiful
           Inclination
           ,
           which
           has
           render'd
           You
           the
           Support
           of
           so
           many
           
             Illustrious
             Exiles
          
           ,
           whom
           the
           Tempest
           of
           the
           Age
           has
           cast
           upon
           the
           Shores
           of
           Holland
           ,
           where
           ,
           by
           Your
           Favour
           ,
           they
           have
           found
           not
           only
           a
           Safe
           but
           a
           Peaceful
           and
           Convenient
           Retreat
           ,
           and
           are
           enabl'd
           to
           out-live
           the
           Loss
           of
           all
           their
           Hopes
           and
           Fortunes
           .
           Since
           then
           a
           Man
           of
           Honour
           may
           assure
           himself
           of
           Your
           Protection
           without
           being
           oblig'd
           to
           bribe
           Your
           Favour
           ,
           I
           might
           be
           justly
           accus'd
           both
           of
           Folly
           and
           Injustice
           if
           I
           shou'd
           endeavour
           to
           obtain
           it
           by
           indirect
           Methods
           .
           No
           ,
           Sir
           ,
           I
           never
           harbour'd
           so
           criminal
           a
           Thought
           ;
           and
           the
           only
           reason
           why
           I
           make
           bold
           to
           consecrate
           the
           Fruit
           of
           my
           Travels
           to
           You
           ,
           is
           because
           this
           Dedication
           will
           furnish
           me
           with
           an
           Opportunity
           to
           acknowledge
           
           the
           vast
           Debt
           I
           owe
           You.
           The
           Iniquity
           of
           Fortune
           made
           me
           incapable
           of
           expressing
           the
           Sense
           I
           have
           of
           Your
           Goodness
           ;
           and
           I
           can
           assure
           You
           ,
           that
           Consideration
           alone
           sate
           heavier
           upon
           me
           than
           all
           the
           rest
           of
           my
           Disasters
           .
           And
           is
           it
           not
           natural
           for
           a
           Man
           in
           such
           a
           Condition
           to
           embrace
           the
           first
           Occasion
           he
           can
           meet
           with
           of
           satisfying
           in
           some
           Measure
           the
           extreme
           Desire
           he
           has
           to
           express
           his
           Gratitude
           ?
           Permit
           me
           then
           to
           acknowledge
           that
           I
           have
           receiv'd
           very
           considerable
           Favours
           from
           You
           ,
           that
           You
           bestow'd
           'em
           in
           the
           most
           obliging
           Manner
           imaginable
           ,
           that
           I
           never
           merited
           'em
           ,
           that
           You
           cou'd
           not
           have
           the
           least
           Reason
           to
           believe
           that
           ever
           I
           cou'd
           requite
           'em
           ,
           and
           consequently
           that
           You
           were
           only
           acted
           by
           a
           Principle
           of
           
             doing
             Good
          
           ,
           without
           the
           least
           hope
           of
           a
           Return
           .
           This
           ,
           Sir
           ,
           is
           what
           I
           desire
           to
           publish
           to
           all
           the
           World
           ;
           this
           is
           the
           only
           Motive
           that
           incited
           me
           to
           prefix
           this
           Letter
           to
           those
           which
           You
           will
           find
           in
           the
           Body
           of
           the
           Treatise
           ;
           and
           to
           convince
           
           You
           that
           I
           had
           no
           other
           Design
           in
           my
           View
           ,
           I
           shall
           pnrposely
           avoid
           the
           usual
           Strain
           of
           Dedications
           ,
           and
           save
           You
           the
           trouble
           of
           reading
           those
           Praises
           which
           Your
           Merit
           challenges
           from
           all
           the
           World
           ,
           and
           Your
           Modesty
           will
           not
           receive
           even
           from
           Your
           best
           Friends
           .
           'T
           is
           not
           without
           extreme
           Reluctancy
           that
           I
           decline
           so
           inviting
           a
           Subject
           ;
           and
           I
           had
           almost
           made
           bold
           to
           tell
           You
           ,
           that
           You
           were
           oblig'd
           to
           me
           for
           my
           Silence
           .
           You
           know
           what
           a
           vast
           Field
           lies
           before
           me
           ,
           and
           with
           how
           much
           Pleasure
           and
           Satisfaction
           I
           wou'd
           have
           made
           Use
           of
           this
           Opportunity
           to
           acquaint
           the
           World
           with
           Your
           unalterable
           Love
           to
           Your
           Country
           ,
           Your
           inviolable
           Fidelity
           to
           the
           State
           ,
           Your
           Zeal
           and
           Affection
           to
           His
           Majesty's
           Service
           ,
           Your
           extraordinary
           Abilities
           and
           Capacity
           for
           the
           Management
           of
           those
           important
           Affairs
           that
           are
           intrusted
           to
           Your
           Care
           ;
           the
           Clearness
           and
           Quickness
           of
           Your
           Apprehension
           ,
           the
           Solidity
           of
           Your
           Judgment
           ,
           Your
           uncommon
           Generosity
           ,
           the
           charming
           Sweetness
           of
           Your
           Temper
           ,
           Your
           incorruptible
           Probity
           ,
           and
           all
           the
           other
           eminent
           Vertues
           and
           Endowments
           ,
           which
           hath
           gain'd
           You
           the
           Esteem
           and
           Admiration
           of
           all
           the
           World.
           '
           Twou'd
           be
           an
           
           endless
           Task
           to
           mention
           all
           those
           rare
           aud
           noble
           Qualities
           which
           have
           so
           justly
           intitl'd
           You
           to
           the
           Favour
           of
           the
           
             greatest
             King
          
           in
           the
           World.
           But
           I
           must
           not
           forget
           my
           Promise
           ,
           and
           therefore
           shall
           content
           my self
           with
           admiring
           you
           in
           Silence
           ,
           after
           I
           have
           begg'd
           Leave
           to
           assure
           You
           that
           I
           am
           ,
           and
           shall
           ever
           remain
           ,
           with
           a
           profound
           Respect
           ,
        
         
           
             SIR
             ,
          
           
             Your
             most
             Humble
             and
             most
             Obedient
             Servant
             ,
             Du
             Mont.
             
          
        
      
       
         
         
         
           THE
           PREFACE
           .
        
         
           THE
           Custom
           of
           Writing
           Prefaces
           has
           been
           so
           long
           establish'd
           ,
           and
           is
           grown
           so
           common
           ,
           that
           what
           was
           formerly
           look'd
           upon
           as
           a
           Courtesie
           ,
           is
           now
           reckon'd
           a
           Duty
           :
           and
           if
           the
           Reader
           be
           not
           coax'd
           into
           good
           Humour
           ,
           he
           thinks
           himself
           engag'd
           in
           Honour
           to
           resent
           the
           Affront
           ,
           and
           the
           Book
           must
           be
           damn'd
           for
           the
           Clownishness
           of
           the
           Author
           .
           But
           tho'
           I
           dare
           not
           venture
           to
           send
           this
           Treatise
           abroad
           without
           so
           necessary
           an
           Ornament
           ,
           I
           must
           confess
           I
           'm
           somewhat
           puzzl'd
           how
           to
           begin
           my
           Address
           .
           'T
           is
           true
           ,
           I
           might
           pretend
           a
           Right
           (
           and
           perhaps
           as
           justly
           too
           as
           many
           others
           )
           to
           that
           thread-bare
           Excuse
           of
           common
           Scriblers
           ;
           that
           neither
           my
           Humour
           ,
           nor
           Profession
           inclines
           me
           to
           set
           up
           for
           an
           Author
           ,
           that
           this
           Treatise
           was
           compos'd
           and
           design'd
           for
           my
           own
           private
           Use
           ,
           that
           I
           happen'd
           to
           shew
           it
           to
           some
           Friends
           ,
           and
           was
           at
           last
           constrain'd
           by
           their
           perpetual
           and
           resistless
           Importunities
           ,
           to
           consent
           to
           its
           Publication
           .
           But
           tho'
           I
           shou'd
           spoil
           my
           Compliment
           to
           the
           Reader
           ,
           I
           will
           neither
           endeavour
           to
           court
           his
           Favour
           ,
           nor
           save
           my
           Credit
           by
           a
           Lie
           :
           that
           is
           ,
           I
           will
           not
           
           pretend
           that
           I
           was
           either
           forc'd
           or
           perswaded
           to
           a
           thing
           which
           I
           chose
           for
           a
           Diversion
           in
           my
           Winter-Quarters
           ,
           where
           I
           spent
           my
           time
           in
           revising
           and
           putting
           in
           Order
           the
           Notes
           I
           had
           taken
           during
           my
           Travels
           .
           As
           to
           the
           Method
           I
           have
           observ'd
           in
           communicating
           my
           Observations
           ,
           besides
           other
           Advantages
           't
           is
           certainly
           most
           convenient
           for
           a
           Man
           of
           my
           Profession
           .
           One
           that
           is
           not
           accustom'd
           to
           Writing
           ,
           expresses
           his
           Thoughts
           more
           easily
           in
           
             familiar
             Letters
          
           than
           in
           a
           
             continu'd
             Discourse
          
           :
           for
           he
           is
           neither
           acquainted
           with
           the
           Niceties
           of
           a
           correct
           Style
           ,
           nor
           able
           to
           preserve
           an
           exact
           Vniformity
           and
           Connexion
           in
           so
           great
           a
           Variety
           of
           Matter
           .
        
         
           '
           Twou'd
           be
           a
           difficult
           and
           laborious
           Task
           to
           answer
           all
           the
           Objections
           that
           may
           be
           made
           against
           this
           Work
           :
           And
           therefore
           since
           I
           am
           not
           naturally
           over-fond
           of
           making
           Apologies
           ,
           I
           'm
           resolv'd
           to
           let
           it
           go
           at
           a
           venture
           ,
           and
           take
           its
           Fate
           among
           the
           Criticks
           ,
           without
           giving
           my self
           the
           Trouble
           to
           consider
           ,
           much
           less
           to
           prevent
           or
           confute
           their
           Censures
           .
           However
           it
           must
           be
           acknowledg'd
           ,
           that
           't
           is
           the
           Design
           of
           all
           Authors
           ,
           and
           mine
           in
           particular
           ,
           to
           please
           ,
           and
           therefore
           it
           will
           not
           be
           improper
           to
           be
           speak
           the
           
           Reader
           's
           Favour
           ,
           since
           he
           must
           shortly
           become
           my
           Judge
           :
           and
           I
           may
           justly
           desire
           to
           be
           heard
           before
           my
           Doom
           be
           pronounc'd
           .
        
         
           In
           the
           first
           place
           ,
           I
           expect
           to
           be
           censur'd
           for
           writing
           on
           a
           Subject
           which
           has
           been
           already
           handl'd
           by
           so
           many
           Learned
           and
           Inquisitive
           Travellers
           ,
           and
           seems
           to
           be
           quite
           exhausted
           
           by
           the
           vast
           Number
           of
           Relations
           with
           which
           they
           have
           oblig'd
           the
           Public
           .
           In
           Answer
           to
           this
           Objection
           ,
           I
           might
           content
           my self
           with
           desiring
           the
           Reader
           to
           consult
           the
           Prefaces
           of
           those
           Authors
           who
           have
           treated
           on
           the
           same
           Subject
           ;
           but
           without
           giving
           him
           the
           Trouble
           of
           perusing
           their
           Reasons
           ,
           I
           can
           assure
           him
           ,
           that
           in
           the
           following
           Letters
           he
           will
           meet
           with
           several
           Observations
           that
           are
           omitted
           by
           other
           Travellers
           .
           I
           made
           it
           my
           principal
           Business
           to
           observe
           the
           Manners
           and
           Customs
           of
           the
           People
           ,
           which
           are
           subject
           to
           frequent
           and
           considerable
           Alterations
           ;
           and
           consequently
           I
           may
           ,
           without
           Vanity
           ,
           affirm
           ,
           that
           my
           Remarks
           will
           furnish
           the
           Reader
           with
           a
           fresher
           ,
           and
           more
           diverting
           Entertainment
           ,
           than
           the
           dry
           Relations
           of
           a
           meer
           Antiquary
           or
           Geographer
           .
           Neither
           is
           the
           Subject
           so
           barren
           nor
           so
           much
           exhausted
           ,
           as
           the
           Objection
           supposes
           ,
           and
           we
           commonly
           imagine
           it
           to
           be
           .
           A
           hundred
           Authors
           have
           handl'd
           it
           before
           me
           ,
           and
           in
           all
           Probability
           a
           hundred
           more
           will
           treat
           of
           it
           after
           me
           .
           But
           almost
           every
           Writer
           pursues
           a
           different
           Method
           ,
           and
           takes
           Notice
           of
           some
           Things
           that
           were
           neglected
           by
           others
           :
           and
           tho'
           I
           have
           related
           nothing
           but
           what
           I
           have
           seen
           or
           heard
           ,
           I
           shall
           be
           always
           glad
           to
           peruse
           the
           Writings
           of
           succeeding
           Travellers
           ,
           and
           may
           perhaps
           find
           several
           considerable
           Remarks
           in
           their
           Relations
           that
           had
           escap'd
           my
           own
           Observation
           .
        
         
           'T
           is
           true
           there
           are
           some
           Things
           so
           particularly
           describ'd
           in
           the
           Relations
           of
           other
           Travellers
           ,
           that
           I
           chose
           rather
           to
           omit
           many
           beauful
           
           Descriptions
           with
           which
           I
           might
           have
           embellish'd
           my
           Work
           ,
           than
           to
           transcribe
           or
           repeat
           the
           Observations
           that
           are
           already
           communicated
           to
           the
           Public
           .
           As
           for
           Example
           ;
           what
           cou'd
           I
           have
           added
           to
           the
           exact
           Account
           of
           the
           
             Roman
             Pantheon
             ,
             Capitol
             ,
             Colliseum
             ,
          
           &c.
           of
           the
           Palace
           of
           S.
           Mark
           at
           Venice
           ,
           of
           the
           
             Great
             Council
          
           ,
           and
           a
           thousand
           other
           Things
           of
           that
           Nature
           ?
           'T
           will
           perhaps
           be
           objected
           ,
           that
           for
           the
           same
           Reason
           I
           ought
           to
           have
           omitted
           several
           other
           Descriptions
           ,
           which
           I
           have
           taken
           care
           to
           insert
           in
           my
           Letters
           ;
           but
           to
           remove
           that
           Prejudice
           't
           will
           be
           sufficient
           to
           put
           the
           Reader
           in
           mind
           that
           there
           is
           so
           necessary
           a
           Connexion
           between
           my
           Old
           and
           New
           Observations
           ,
           that
           I
           cou'd
           not
           possibly
           mention
           the
           latter
           ,
           without
           taking
           Notice
           of
           the
           former
           .
           'T
           is
           true
           ,
           I
           cannot
           pretend
           the
           same
           Excuse
           for
           that
           part
           of
           my
           Book
           ,
           where
           I
           treat
           of
           the
           
             Egyptian
             Pyramids
          
           ,
           of
           Cairo
           ,
           and
           the
           Ruines
           of
           Alexandria
           :
           But
           there
           is
           something
           so
           wonderful
           and
           surprizing
           in
           those
           Celebrated
           Monuments
           of
           Antiquity
           ,
           that
           I
           concluded
           the
           curious
           Reader
           wou'd
           be
           glad
           of
           an
           Opportunity
           to
           refresh
           his
           Memory
           by
           Reading
           the
           
             Two
             Letters
          
           I
           have
           written
           on
           that
           Subject
           :
           and
           as
           for
           those
           who
           are
           already
           so
           well
           acquainted
           with
           these
           Curiosities
           ,
           that
           they
           cannot
           imploy
           their
           Time
           with
           Pleasure
           in
           Reading
           a
           New
           Account
           of
           'em
           ,
           they
           may
           easily
           save
           themselves
           that
           Trouble
           ,
           by
           skipping
           over
           Ten
           or
           Twelve
           Leaves
           .
        
         
         
           The
           same
           Answer
           may
           serve
           for
           those
           who
           win
           〈◊〉
           apt
           to
           censure
           me
           for
           inserting
           in
           my
           Two
           
             first
             Letters
          
           ,
           an
           Abridgment
           of
           the
           Campagne
           in
           Germany
           in
           1689.
           and
           of
           the
           Barbarities
           that
           were
           committed
           by
           the
           French
           in
           that
           Country
           .
           And
           besides
           ,
           I
           must
           beg
           Leave
           to
           tell
           those
           Gentlemen
           ,
           that
           several
           Men
           of
           Sense
           are
           of
           a
           very
           different
           Opinion
           ,
           and
           esteem
           that
           an
           Ornament
           ,
           which
           they
           perhaps
           may
           reckon
           a
           Fault
           .
        
         
           I
           cou'd
           easily
           dispatch
           such
           
             nibbling
             Criticks
          
           if
           I
           were
           not
           afraid
           of
           being
           attack'd
           by
           more
           
             formidable
             Adversaries
          
           ,
           who
           will
           absolutely
           condemn
           all
           those
           little
           Stories
           which
           I
           thought
           fit
           to
           insert
           in
           my
           Work
           ;
           either
           to
           give
           the
           Reader
           a
           clearer
           and
           more
           comprehensive
           Idea
           of
           the
           Genius
           and
           Customs
           of
           the
           People
           of
           whom
           I
           have
           occasion
           to
           discourse
           ,
           or
           for
           some
           other
           Reasons
           that
           need
           not
           be
           mention'd
           .
           Since
           I
           must
           expect
           to
           be
           treated
           with
           the
           utmost
           Rigour
           and
           Spite
           by
           such
           peevish
           and
           merciless
           Censurers
           ;
           I
           do
           not
           think
           my self
           oblig'd
           either
           to
           submit
           to
           their
           Judgment
           ,
           or
           to
           appease
           their
           Anger
           .
           And
           therefore
           I
           shall
           content
           my self
           with
           telling
           'em
           plainly
           ,
           that
           they
           may
           lay
           aside
           my
           Book
           ,
           when
           they
           meet
           with
           any
           Thing
           in
           it
           that
           offends
           'em
           ,
           and
           that
           I
           shall
           be
           equally
           unconcern'd
           whether
           they
           approve
           or
           condemn
           it
           .
        
         
           The
           Reader
           may
           easily
           perceive
           ,
           that
           I
           design'd
           not
           to
           have
           ended
           my
           Relation
           at
           Venice
           .
           I
           thought
           ,
           in
           a
           
             Second
             Part
          
           ,
           to
           have
           given
           an
           Account
           of
           
             Germany
             ,
             Holland
          
           ,
           and
           Flanders
           :
           but
           the
           time
           of
           Staying
           in
           our
           Winter-Quarters
           
           being
           expir'd
           ,
           I
           was
           oblig'd
           to
           quit
           my
           Closet
           for
           the
           Field
           ,
           before
           I
           had
           finish'd
           my
           intended
           Work.
           In
           the
           mean
           time
           ,
           if
           the
           
             First
             Part
          
           meet
           with
           an
           encouraging
           Reception
           ,
           the
           Second
           shall
           be
           completed
           next
           Winter
           ;
           if
           not
           ,
           I
           must
           e'en
           take
           my
           Rest
           ,
           or
           find
           out
           some
           other
           Employment
           ;
           for
           I
           never
           was
           ,
           nor
           will
           be
           of
           an
           Humour
           to
           cloy
           the
           Public
           with
           my
           Writings
           .
        
      
       
         
         
           THE
           CONTENTS
           .
        
         
           
             
               LETTER
               I.
            
             THE
             Design
             of
             the
             two
             first
             Letters
             .
             Description
             of
             Spire
             .
             The
             Bone
             of
             a
             Man
             who
             was
             Twenty
             five
             Foot
             high
             .
             Of
             the
             Burning
             of
             the
             City
             ,
             and
             the
             Consternation
             of
             the
             Inhabitants
             .
             Of
             the
             Plundering
             of
             the
             Town
             ,
             and
             the
             Sacrileges
             that
             were
             Committed
             on
             that
             Occasion
             .
             Treasure
             found
             in
             the
             Jesuites
             House
             .
             Description
             of
             Manheim
             .
             Of
             the
             razing
             of
             that
             City
             .
             Several
             other
             Towns
             demolish'd
             .
             1
          
           
             
               LETTER
               II.
            
             Relation
             of
             the
             Campaign
             in
             Germany
             .
             The
             Elector
             of
             Brandenburg
             takes
             Keiserwaert
             ,
             and
             sits
             down
             before
             
               Bonn.
               Mentz
            
             besieg'd
             by
             the
             Dukes
             of
             Bavaria
             and
             
               Lorrain
               .
               Heidelberg
            
             invested
             by
             the
             
               Mareschal
               de
               Duras
            
             ,
             who
             is
             forc'd
             to
             raise
             the
             Siege
             Seven
             Days
             after
             .
             Description
             of
             the
             City
             .
             The
             same
             Mareschal
             burns
             Wiselock
             and
             Sinsennes
             .
             Disorders
             committed
             by
             his
             Army
             .
             Wingarten
             and
             Bruchsal
             taken
             .
             Cocheim
             storm'd
             by
             
               Monsieur
               de
               Boufflers
            
             ,
             who
             afterwards
             makes
             himself
             Master
             of
             
             several
             other
             Places
             .
             The
             Mareschal
             
               de
               Duras
            
             continues
             his
             March
             ,
             and
             burns
             
               Baden
               ,
               Durlach
            
             ,
             and
             all
             Wirtemberg
             .
             Description
             of
             Baden
             .
             Description
             of
             Durlach
             .
             The
             Author
             Arrested
             .
             Mentz
             reduc'd
             .
             Description
             and
             History
             of
             Strasburg
             .
             19
          
           
             
               LETTER
               III.
            
             Description
             and
             History
             of
             Metz.
             Description
             if
             Nanci
             and
             Langres
             .
             History
             and
             Description
             of
             Dijon
             .
             25
          
           
             
               LETTER
               IV.
            
             The
             Author
             travels
             in
             Company
             with
             a
             Priest
             ,
             who
             pretends
             to
             be
             acquainted
             with
             Charms
             .
             Description
             of
             Lions
             .
             The
             Mareschal
             de
             Feuillade's
             pleasant
             Repartees
             to
             the
             Archbishop
             of
             that
             Place
             .
             Account
             of
             the
             Vaudois
             ,
             32
          
           
             
               LETTER
               V.
            
             History
             and
             Antiquity
             of
             Vienne
             in
             Dauphiné
             .
             Story
             of
             a
             Beggar
             .
             Description
             and
             History
             of
             Grenoble
             .
             Description
             of
             a
             Cistertian
             Monastery
             .
             Description
             of
             
               Chamberi
               ,
               Montmelian
               ,
               S.
               John
               de
               Morienne
               ,
            
             and
             Mount
             Cennis
             .
             Description
             of
             Tunis
             ,
             42
          
           
             
               LETTER
               VI.
            
             Description
             of
             Pignerol
             .
             Of
             the
             dangerous
             Passage
             over
             Mount
             Genevre
             .
             The
             Author
             stopt
             at
             Sisteron
             .
             Description
             
             of
             that
             Town
             .
             Description
             of
             Aix
             in
             Provenc●
             .
             History
             of
             Provence
             .
             Mildness
             of
             its
             Climate
             .
             Advantages
             of
             its
             Soil
             .
             Description
             of
             the
             Turfe's
             or
             Earth-Apples
             that
             are
             found
             there
             ,
             57
          
           
             
               LETTER
               VII
            
             .
             History
             of
             Marseilles
             .
             The
             strange
             Aversion
             of
             the
             Inbitants
             against
             the
             French.
             Description
             of
             the
             City
             .
             Of
             the
             New
             Town
             .
             Of
             the
             Abbey
             of
             S.
             Victor
             .
             Of
             the
             Galleys
             .
             The
             Deplorable
             Condition
             of
             the
             Galley-Slaves
             .
             Of
             the
             Arsenal
             ,
             70
          
           
             
               LETTER
               VIII
            
             .
             Description
             of
             
               S.
               Baume
            
             .
             The
             unusual
             Stature
             of
             
               Mary
               Magdalen
            
             .
             By
             what
             Accident
             she
             came
             to
             Provence
             .
             Of
             the
             Relick
             of
             that
             Saint
             at
             
               S.
               Maximin
            
             .
             Of
             the
             Amphitheatre
             at
             Arles
             .
             Of
             the
             Obelisk
             .
             Of
             the
             Foundation
             of
             Nismes
             .
             The
             Temple
             of
             Diana
             .
             The
             Tower
             Magne
             .
             The
             Square
             House
             .
             The
             Civil
             and
             Free
             Temper
             of
             the
             People
             of
             Languedoc
             .
             History
             of
             two
             unfortunate
             Lovers
             .
             Another
             of
             S.
             
             Anthony's
             Ghost
             at
             Marseilles
             81
          
           
             
               LETTER
               IX
            
             .
             Of
             the
             Isles
             of
             If.
             Of
             the
             Bravery
             of
             the
             People
             of
             Provence
             .
             Of
             the
             Republio
             of
             Genoa
             .
             Ways
             to
             prevent
             the
             dangerous
             Effects
             of
             Bombs
             and
             Granadoes
             .
             General
             Remarks
             on
             Italy
             .
             Of
             the
             Curtezans
             .
             Of
             the
             Luxury
             that
             reigns
             under
             the
             Pontificate
             of
             
               Alexander
               VIII
            
             .
             Compar'd
             with
             that
             of
             
               Innocent
               XI
            
             .
             
             Abuses
             occasion'd
             by
             the
             Privileges
             granted
             to
             Churches
             as
             places
             of
             Refuge
             .
             Of
             the
             unusual
             Dexterity
             of
             a
             certain
             Florentine
             in
             avoiding
             a
             Musket-Bullet
             .
             100
          
           
             
               LETTER
               X.
            
             Of
             a
             furious
             Tempest
             ,
             in
             which
             a
             little
             Boy
             was
             carry'd
             from
             one
             End
             of
             the
             Ship
             to
             the
             other
             .
             A
             Story
             of
             another
             Accident
             almost
             of
             the
             same
             Nature
             ,
             which
             happen'd
             during
             a
             Storm
             of
             Lightning
             at
             the
             Castle
             of
             Guernsey
             .
             The
             Author's
             Arrival
             at
             Malta
             .
             The
             quick
             Return
             of
             a
             Messenger
             that
             was
             sent
             from
             Malta
             to
             Provence
             .
             Abridgement
             of
             the
             History
             of
             Malta
             .
             How
             it
             was
             besieg'd
             by
             
               Sinan
               Bassa
            
             .
             The
             Strength
             and
             Beauty
             of
             the
             City
             Valette
             .
             Of
             the
             Arsenal
             .
             of
             S.
             
             John's
             Church
             .
             Ceremonies
             observ'd
             at
             Malta
             in
             the
             performing
             of
             Divine
             Service
             .
             The
             Antiquity
             and
             Institution
             of
             the
             Order
             .
             It
             s
             present
             Condition
             .
             Of
             the
             Hospital
             ,
             and
             how
             diseas'd
             Persons
             are
             entertain'd
             in
             it
             .
             115
          
           
             
               LETTER
               XI
            
             .
             Of
             the
             Dryness
             and
             Barrenness
             of
             Malta
             .
             The
             extraorordinary
             Heat
             of
             the
             Climate
             .
             The
             Manners
             and
             Customs
             of
             the
             Inhabitants
             .
             Two
             Stories
             on
             that
             Subject
             .
             Of
             the
             great
             Number
             of
             Curtezans
             in
             the
             Island
             .
             The
             Habit
             of
             the
             Women
             .
             Of
             the
             
               Bonnes
               Vogues
            
             .
             Tyrannical
             Proceedings
             of
             the
             Inquisition
             .
             S.
             
             Paul's
             Grotto
             .
             Of
             the
             common
             Opinion
             that
             there
             are
             no
             Serpents
             in
             Malta
             .
             131
          
           
           
             
               LETTER
               XII
            
             .
             The
             Ruines
             of
             Troy.
             The
             two
             Castles
             at
             the
             Mouth
             of
             the
             Hellespont
             .
             The
             admirable
             Prospect
             of
             Constantinople
             from
             the
             Sea
             Marmora
             .
             The
             Character
             of
             
               Monsieur
               de
               Chasteauneuf
            
             ,
             the
             French
             Ambassador
             at
             the
             Port.
             History
             of
             Constantinople
             .
             The
             Purity
             of
             the
             Air.
             The
             Extent
             of
             the
             City
             .
             Of
             its
             Strength
             and
             Buildings
             .
             Of
             the
             Besestin
             and
             Hippodrome
             .
             Fabulous
             Traditions
             concerning
             the
             Emperor
             
               Leo
               Isaurus
            
             .
             Description
             of
             
               Santa
               Sophia
            
             .
             History
             of
             its
             Foundation
             .
             Description
             of
             the
             Mosquee
             built
             by
             the
             Sultaness
             Validé
             .
             142
          
           
             
               LETTER
               XIII
               .
               Arsenal
            
             of
             Constantinople
             .
             Description
             of
             the
             Hans
             and
             Karavanserai
             .
             Inconveniencies
             of
             Travelling
             in
             Turkey
             .
             The
             French
             Ambassador
             sends
             his
             Secretary
             to
             Poland
             ;
             and
             for
             what
             Reasons
             .
             Description
             of
             the
             
               Seraglio
               .
               Sultan
            
             Amurat's
             Severity
             .
             
               Monsieur
               de
               Chasteauneuf
            
             receives
             an
             Audience
             from
             the
             Caimacan
             .
             Their
             Compliments
             and
             Discourse
             .
             Ceremonies
             observ'd
             at
             the
             Audience
             .
             Description
             of
             the
             Caimacan's
             House
             .
             160
          
           
             
               LETTER
               XIV
            
             .
             The
             
             Sultan's
             magnificent
             Entry
             into
             Constantinople
             .
             The
             Order
             of
             the
             Cavalcade
             .
             The
             French
             Ambassador
             expresses
             a
             great
             deal
             of
             Joy
             on
             this
             Occasion
             .
             The
             Way
             how
             Moneys
             are
             transmitted
             to
             him
             for
             Secret
             
             Service
             .
             Story
             of
             two
             French
             Engeneers
             .
             The
             French
             come
             over
             to
             the
             Turks
             in
             great
             Numbers
             .
             A
             remarkable
             Story
             of
             a
             Spy
             sent
             by
             the
             Emperor
             .
             175
          
           
             
               LETTER
               XV.
            
             Of
             the
             Liberty
             which
             the
             Greeks
             enjoy
             in
             Scio.
             Of
             the
             City
             of
             Scio.
             Of
             the
             Mastick
             that
             grows
             in
             the
             Island
             .
             A
             pleasant
             Story
             of
             S.
             
             Anthony's
             Image
             .
             Turks
             and
             Christians
             join
             in
             some
             superstitious
             Rites
             .
             Of
             the
             Schools
             of
             Homer
             .
             Of
             the
             free
             Way
             of
             living
             in
             Scio.
             The
             Habit
             of
             the
             Inhabitants
             .
             185
          
           
             
               LETTER
               XVI
            
             .
             Of
             the
             Island
             of
             Stanchio
             ,
             where
             Hippocrates
             and
             Appelles
             were
             born
             .
             Abridgment
             of
             the
             History
             of
             Rhodes
             .
             Description
             of
             the
             City
             .
             The
             Head
             of
             a
             Dragon
             .
             Of
             the
             
               Rhodian
               Colossus
            
             .
             The
             Author's
             Arrival
             at
             Cyprus
             ,
             where
             he
             sees
             a
             Man
             with
             four
             Arms.
             Arrival
             at
             Alexandria
             .
             Description
             of
             that
             City
             .
             
             Pompey's
             Pillar
             .
             Remarks
             upon
             that
             Column
             .
             Catacombs
             near
             Alexandria
             .
             Manner
             of
             Divining
             among
             the
             Arabs
             .
             A
             Story
             on
             that
             Subject
             .
             An
             Account
             of
             the
             Arabs
             ,
             and
             their
             manner
             of
             living
             .
             194
          
           
             
               LETTER
               XVII
            
             .
             The
             
               Aegyptian
               Pyramids
            
             .
             An
             Idol
             Twenty
             six
             Foot
             high
             .
             Catacombs
             ,
             or
             
               Subterraneous
               Vaults
            
             ,
             in
             which
             the
             Mummy
             is
             found
             .
             Ruines
             of
             M●●phis
             .
             
             Abridgment
             of
             the
             History
             of
             Cairo
             .
             Description
             of
             that
             City
             .
             The
             Castle
             of
             Cairo
             ,
             Joseph's
             Palace
             ,
             and
             Well
             .
             Of
             Maltharea
             ,
             where
             there
             is
             a
             Spring
             of
             Water
             .
             A
             Story
             of
             the
             Blessed
             Virgin.
             211
          
           
             
               LETTER
               XVIII
            
             .
             Of
             Smyrna
             .
             Of
             the
             Ancient
             and
             Present
             State
             of
             that
             City
             .
             Relation
             of
             an
             Earthquake
             .
             Authority
             of
             the
             Consuls
             of
             the
             Franks
             .
             The
             Author
             puts
             himself
             ●●der
             the
             Protection
             of
             Holland
             ,
             and
             receives
             a
             Thousand
             Civilities
             from
             the
             Cons●
             of
             that
             Nation
             .
             223
          
           
             
               LETTER
               XIX
            
             .
             The
             Aritrarness
             of
             the
             
               Turk
               ish
            
             Government
             .
             The
             Dignity
             and
             Authority
             of
             the
             
               Grand
               Visier
            
             .
             Of
             the
             
             Bassa's
             and
             Grandees
             of
             the
             Empire
             .
             The
             Weakness
             of
             the
             Government
             is
             the
             Cause
             of
             those
             frequent
             Disorders
             that
             disturb
             the
             Quiet
             of
             the
             Empire
             .
             Of
             the
             Administration
             of
             Justice
             .
             Of
             the
             
               Cadi's
               ,
               Bassa's
            
             ,
             and
             Vaivods
             .
             Of
             the
             other
             Officers
             ,
             and
             their
             Jurisdictions
             .
             Story
             of
             a
             Judge
             who
             was
             brib'd
             to
             acquit
             a
             Malefactor
             .
             Several
             kinds
             of
             Punishment
             in
             Turkey
             .
             Pleasant
             Stories
             which
             the
             Magistrates
             tell
             of
             each
             other
             .
             232
          
           
             
               LETTER
               XX.
            
             The
             Turks
             believe
             there
             were
             Four
             Prophets
             sent
             by
             GOD
             ,
             
               Enoch
               ,
               Moses
               ,
               Christ
            
             ,
             and
             Mahomet
             .
             Their
             fondness
             for
             Predestination
             .
             Of
             the
             White
             and
             
             Black
             Angels
             .
             Their
             Opinion
             concerning
             the
             Union
             of
             the
             Soul
             and
             Body
             .
             Their
             Ablutions
             and
             Devotions
             .
             Their
             Lent.
             Their
             Charity
             .
             Their
             Kindness
             to
             Dogs
             .
             A
             Dog
             Arraign'd
             ,
             Condemn'd
             ,
             and
             Executed
             .
             A
             Battel
             between
             the
             Dogs
             and
             Jaccals
             .
             Turkish
             Conceits
             about
             the
             Plague
             .
             249
          
           
             
               LETTER
               XXI
               .
               Turkish
            
             Genius
             opposite
             to
             ours
             .
             Their
             lazy
             Manner
             of
             Living
             .
             Their
             Skill
             in
             Horsemanship
             .
             Of
             Servants
             Wages
             .
             Habit
             of
             the
             Men.
             Of
             Marriage
             ,
             and
             keeping
             of
             Concubines
             .
             Punishment
             of
             Whores
             .
             Of
             the
             Way
             which
             the
             Women
             take
             to
             declare
             an
             amorous
             Passion
             .
             A
             Story
             on
             that
             Subject
             .
             Severity
             of
             Husbands
             .
             Another
             Story
             .
             Habit
             of
             the
             Women
             .
             Their
             Way
             of
             Painting
             .
             Their
             Beauty
             and
             Neatness
             .
             Their
             frequent
             Bathing
             .
             The
             Turkish
             Music
             .
             Several
             Kinds
             of
             Dances
             .
             Puppet-Shows
             .
             Of
             the
             Turkish
             Salutations
             and
             Civility
             .
             Of
             Persons
             of
             Quality
             in
             Turkey
             .
             A
             blunt
             Repartee
             .
             261
          
           
             
               LETTER
               XXII
            
             .
             The
             Slavery
             of
             the
             Greeks
             .
             Their
             Habit.
             Dances
             .
             Opinion
             concerning
             the
             Marks
             of
             Virginity
             .
             Salutation
             on
             Easter-Day
             .
             Their
             Separation
             from
             the
             Romish
             Church
             ,
             and
             the
             Reasons
             they
             give
             for
             it
             .
             The
             Points
             of
             Doctrine
             in
             which
             they
             differ
             from
             the
             Romanists
             .
             Of
             the
             Procession
             of
             the
             Holy
             Ghost
             .
             Of
             Purgatory
             .
             Of
             Communion
             under
             both
             Kinds
             .
             Of
             Leaven'd
             Bread.
             Of
             the
             Celibacy
             of
             the
             Clergy
             .
             The
             Habit
             of
             the
             Priests
             and
             Religious
             Persons
             .
             The
             Structure
             of
             their
             Churches
             .
             They
             believe
             Transubstantiation
             .
             
             And
             worship
             Images
             .
             Their
             Manner
             of
             Painting
             .
             A
             short
             Account
             of
             the
             Armenians
             .
             Opinion
             of
             the
             Greeks
             concerning
             Bodies
             that
             remain
             uncorrupted
             in
             the
             Grave
             .
             Funeral
             Ceremonies
             .
             Weeping-Women
             .
             Jewish
             Impostors
             .
             Character
             of
             the
             Jews
             .
             Their
             Superstition
             ,
             Jealousie
             ,
             and
             Habit
             .
             381
          
           
             
               LETTER
               XXIII
            
             .
             Arrival
             of
             Five
             Barbary
             Ships
             :
             A
             particular
             Account
             of
             the
             Disorders
             committed
             by
             those
             Barbarians
             about
             a
             Year
             ago
             .
             The
             
               French
               Consul
            
             quarrels
             with
             the
             Capuchins
             .
             He
             is
             govern'd
             by
             the
             Jesuits
             .
             Character
             of
             the
             Jesuits
             .
             Ignorance
             of
             the
             Turks
             ,
             and
             their
             surprizing
             Neglect
             of
             the
             Public
             Interest
             .
             Arabian
             Divination
             .
             A
             Story
             on
             that
             Subject
             .
             The
             Turks
             much
             addicted
             to
             the
             Study
             of
             the
             Philosophers
             Stone
             .
             301
          
           
             
               LETTER
               XXIV
            
             .
             History
             of
             
               Mahomet
               IV.
            
             Emperour
             of
             the
             Turks
             .
             He
             loses
             the
             Battel
             of
             Hersan
             .
             The
             Army
             revolts
             against
             him
             .
             He
             is
             depos'd
             by
             the
             Grandees
             of
             the
             Empire
             .
             His
             Brother
             Soliman
             advanc'd
             to
             the
             Throne
             .
             The
             Caimacan
             endeavours
             to
             make
             his
             Escape
             in
             a
             French
             Vessel
             .
             He
             flies
             towards
             the
             Black
             Sea
             :
             is
             taken
             and
             Beheaded
             .
             A
             new
             Insurrection
             against
             Soliman
             ,
             in
             which
             the
             City
             and
             Galleys
             are
             set
             on
             Fire
             .
             The
             Emperour
             retires
             to
             Adrianople
             .
             The
             Duke
             of
             Bavaria
             takes
             Belgrade
             .
             The
             Prince
             of
             Baden
             obtains
             three
             great
             Victories
             :
             and
             makes
             himself
             Master
             of
             several
             Places
             .
             The
             
               Visier
               Ismael
            
             depos'd
             .
             
             The
             
               Bassa
               Kopergli
               Oglon
            
             put
             in
             his
             Place
             :
             He
             is
             kill'd
             at
             the
             Battle
             of
             Salankemen
             .
             Proposals
             of
             Peace
             .
             Story
             of
             a
             Venetian
             Captain
             ,
             who
             put
             himself
             under
             the
             Protection
             of
             France
             .
             Death
             of
             the
             Emperour
             Soliman
             .
             Advancement
             of
             his
             Brother
             Achmet
             .
             Tragical
             End
             of
             
               Mustapha
               Aga.
            
             314
          
           
             
               LETTER
               XXV
            
             .
             The
             French
             Ambassadour
             comes
             to
             Adrianople
             :
             And
             breaks
             the
             Treaty
             of
             Peace
             .
             Death
             of
             the
             English
             Ambassadour
             .
             Count
             Marsigli
             assassinated
             .
             An
             Italian
             turns
             Turk
             .
             Ceremonies
             observ'd
             at
             the
             Receiving
             of
             a
             Renegado
             .
             The
             Bones
             of
             a
             Man
             Twenty
             Foot
             high
             ,
             found
             at
             Thessalonica
             .
             The
             Author
             prepares
             for
             his
             Departure
             .
             News
             of
             Count
             
             Marsigli's
             Recovery
             .
             331
          
           
             
               LETTER
               XXVI
            
             .
             Death
             of
             
               Signior
               Stephano
            
             .
             The
             Ship
             's
             Company
             take
             him
             for
             a
             Sorcerer
             .
             Description
             of
             the
             Isle
             of
             Millo
             .
             Of
             Argentiere
             .
             Of
             Zant.
             A
             pleasant
             Story
             of
             the
             Prince
             of
             
             Brunswick's
             Amours
             with
             a
             Courtezan
             .
             Description
             of
             Ragusa
             .
             Of
             the
             Government
             of
             that
             Republic
             .
             Prospect
             of
             Venice
             ,
             Description
             of
             the
             New
             Lazaretto
             .
             Orders
             observ'd
             there
             .
             Of
             the
             Inquisition
             of
             State.
             Spies
             entertain'd
             by
             that
             Tribunal
             .
             The
             Author
             in
             Danger
             of
             feeling
             their
             Severity
             .
             339
          
           
           
             
               LETTER
               XXVII
            
             .
             Of
             the
             E●tent
             of
             Venice
             .
             Of
             its
             Strength
             .
             Whether
             it
             be
             impregnable
             .
             Reasons
             why
             it
             is
             not
             fortified
             .
             Observations
             on
             the
             Canals
             .
             Of
             the
             Streets
             .
             Of
             
               S.
               Mark
               's
            
             Place
             .
             The
             Broglio
             .
             The
             Procuraties
             .
             The
             Palace
             of
             
               S.
               Mark.
               S.
            
             Mark
             's
             Church
             .
             The
             Arsenal
             .
             Beauty
             of
             the
             Venetian
             Palaces
             .
             Of
             the
             Ridotti
             or
             Gaming-Houses
             .
             354
          
           
             
               LETTER
               XXVIII
            
             .
             Degrees
             of
             the
             Venetian
             Nobility
             .
             Advantages
             of
             the
             poor
             Nobles
             .
             Extravagant
             Ceremonies
             observ'd
             by
             the
             Venetians
             in
             their
             Salutations
             :
             In
             Discourse
             and
             Letters
             .
             Titles
             given
             to
             Persons
             according
             to
             their
             several
             Ranks
             .
             The
             Doge
             a
             gawdy
             Slave
             .
             History
             of
             
               Francis
               Moresini
            
             ,
             the
             present
             Doge
             .
             The
             Procurator
             
             Moresini's
             public
             Entry
             .
             Edicts
             against
             Luxury
             .
             Of
             the
             Knights
             of
             
               S.
               Mark.
            
             Of
             the
             Forces
             of
             the
             Republic
             .
             Of
             the
             Condition
             of
             the
             Officers
             and
             Soldiers
             .
             Of
             the
             Ships
             that
             belong
             to
             the
             Republic
             .
             
               S.
               Mark
            
             ,
             represented
             under
             the
             Figure
             of
             a
             Lyon.
             History
             of
             that
             Lyon.
             The
             Venetian
             Nobles
             extremely
             civil
             to
             Strangers
             .
             Of
             the
             Bravo's
             .
             Habit
             of
             the
             Nobles
             .
             372
          
           
             
               LETTER
               XXIX
            
             .
             Of
             the
             Gondola's
             ,
             and
             of
             the
             Dexterity
             of
             the
             Gondoliers
             .
             Festival
             after
             Ascension-Day
             .
             Of
             the
             Venetian
             Ladies
             ,
             and
             the
             Liberty
             they
             enjoy
             .
             Of
             the
             
             Pleasure
             and
             Advantage
             of
             Marsquerades
             .
             Of
             the
             Venetian
             Astrologers
             .
             Of
             Girls
             that
             come
             to
             the
             Fair.
             Of
             their
             Dress
             .
             Of
             the
             Way
             of
             Buying
             '
             em
             .
             Opinion
             of
             the
             Italians
             concerning
             the
             Marks
             of
             Virginity
             .
             Of
             the
             Courtezans
             .
             A
             pleasant
             Story
             .
             Of
             the
             Opera's
             and
             Comedies
             .
             History
             of
             Pope
             
               Alexander
               VIII
            
             .
             Ridiculous
             Opinion
             of
             the
             Italians
             concerning
             the
             French
             Customs
             .
             394
          
        
         
           The
           END
           of
           the
           Contents
           .
        
      
       
         
         
           BOOKS
           lately
           Printed
           .
        
         
           THE
           
             Present
             State
          
           of
           Persia
           :
           With
           a
           faithful
           Account
           of
           the
           
             Manners
             ,
             Religion
          
           and
           Government
           of
           that
           People
           .
           By
           Monsieur
           Sanson
           ,
           a
           Missionary
           from
           the
           French
           King.
           Adorn'd
           with
           Figures
           .
           Done
           into
           English
           .
        
         
           The
           
             Present
             State
          
           of
           the
           Empire
           of
           Morocco
           :
           With
           a
           faithful
           Account
           of
           the
           
             Manners
             ,
             Religion
          
           ,
           and
           Government
           of
           that
           People
           .
           By
           Monsieur
           
             de
             S.
             Olon
          
           ,
           Ambassador
           there
           in
           the
           Year
           1693.
           
           Adorn'd
           with
           Figures
           .
        
         
           The
           Life
           of
           the
           Famous
           Cardinal-Duke
           of
           Richlieu
           ,
           Principal
           Minister
           of
           State
           to
           Lewis
           XIII
           .
           King
           of
           France
           and
           Navarre
           .
           in
           Two
           Volumes
           .
           8
           vo
           .
        
         
           Letters
           ,
           written
           by
           a
           French
           Gentleman
           ;
           giving
           a
           faithful
           and
           particular
           Account
           of
           the
           Transactions
           of
           the
           Court
           of
           France
           ,
           relating
           to
           the
           
             Publick
             Interest
          
           of
           Europe
           .
           With
           Historical
           and
           Political
           Reflections
           on
           the
           ancient
           and
           present
           State
           of
           that
           Kingdom
           .
           By
           the
           Famous
           Monsieur
           Vassor
           .
        
         
           The
           
             Roman
             History
          
           ,
           from
           the
           Building
           of
           the
           City
           to
           the
           perfect
           Settlement
           of
           the
           Empire
           by
           
             Augustus
             Caesar
          
           :
           Containing
           the
           Space
           of
           727
           Years
           .
           Design'd
           as
           well
           for
           the
           Understanding
           of
           the
           Roman
           Authors
           ,
           as
           the
           Roman
           Affairs
           .
           By
           
             Laurence
             Echard
          
           ,
           A.
           M.
           of
           Christ-College
           in
           Cambridge
           .
        
         
           A
           
             New
             Voyage
          
           to
           Italy
           :
           With
           a
           Description
           of
           the
           Chief
           
             Towns
             ,
             Churches
             ,
             Tombs
             ,
             Libraries
             ,
             Palaces
             ,
             Statues
             ,
          
           and
           Antiquities
           of
           that
           Country
           .
           Together
           with
           
             useful
             Instructions
          
           for
           those
           who
           shall
           travel
           thither
           .
           By
           
             Maximilian
             Mission
          
           ,
           Gent.
           Done
           into
           English
           ,
           and
           adorn'd
           with
           Figures
           .
           In
           two
           Volumes
           .
           8
           vo
           .
        
         
           The
           Life
           of
           the
           Famous
           
             John
             Baptist
             Colbert
          
           .
           Late
           Minister
           and
           
             Secretary
             of
             State
          
           to
           Lewis
           XIV
           .
           the
           present
           French
           King.
           Done
           into
           English
           from
           a
           
             French
             Copy
          
           ,
           printed
           at
           Cologn
           this
           present
           Year
           1695.
           
        
         
           
           
             Now
             in
             the
             Press
             ,
             and
             will
             be
             speedily
             Publish'd
             .
          
           
             THE
             
               Compleat
               Horseman
            
             :
             Discovering
             the
             surest
             Marks
             of
             the
             
               Beauty
               ,
               Goodness
            
             ,
             and
             Vices
             of
             Horses
             ,
             and
             describing
             the
             Signs
             and
             Causes
             of
             their
             Diseases
             ;
             and
             the
             True
             Method
             both
             of
             their
             Preservation
             and
             Cure.
             With
             Reflections
             on
             the
             Regular
             and
             Preposterous
             Use
             of
             Bleeding
             and
             Purging
             .
             Together
             with
             the
             
               Art
               of
               Shooing
            
             ,
             and
             a
             Description
             of
             several
             Kinds
             of
             Shooes
             ,
             adapted
             to
             the
             various
             Defects
             of
             
               Bad
               Feet
            
             ,
             and
             for
             the
             Preservation
             of
             those
             that
             are
             good
             ;
             and
             the
             
               Best
               Method
               of
               Breeding
               Colts
            
             ;
             with
             Directions
             to
             be
             observ'd
             in
             Backing
             'em
             ,
             and
             
               Making
               their
               Mouths
            
             ,
             &c.
             
             By
             the
             
               Sieur
               de
               Solleysell
            
             ,
             one
             of
             the
             Heads
             of
             the
             
               Royal
               Academy
            
             at
             Paris
             .
             The
             
               Eighth
               Edition
            
             ,
             Review'd
             and
             methodically
             Augmented
             ;
             Done
             into
             English
             ,
             and
             Adorn'd
             with
             Figures
             .
             Folio
             .
          
           
             
               The
               Compleat
               Chirurgeon
            
             :
             Or
             ,
             The
             whole
             Art
             of
             Chirurgery
             Explain'd
             ,
             by
             Way
             of
             Questions
             and
             Answers
             .
             Containing
             an
             exact
             Account
             of
             its
             Principles
             ,
             and
             several
             
               Parts
               ;
               viz.
            
             A
             Description
             of
             the
             Bones
             and
             Muscles
             :
             with
             a
             Treatise
             of
             
               Tumours
               ,
               Vlcers
               ,
               Wounds
            
             ,
             whether
             Simple
             or
             Complicated
             ;
             and
             those
             by
             Gun-shot
             :
             As
             also
             of
             
               Venereal
               Diseases
            
             ,
             the
             
               Scurvey
               ,
               Luxation
               ,
               Fractures
            
             ,
             and
             all
             Sorts
             of
             
               Chirurgical
               Operations
            
             ,
             together
             with
             their
             proper
             Bandages
             and
             Dressings
             .
             Whereto
             is
             added
             a
             
               Chirurgical
               Dispensatory
            
             ;
             shewing
             the
             Manner
             how
             to
             prepare
             all
             such
             Medicines
             as
             ate
             most
             necessary
             for
             a
             Chirurgeon
             ;
             and
             particularly
             the
             
               Mercurial
               Panacaea
            
             .
             Written
             in
             French
             by
             
               M.
               le
               Clerc
            
             ,
             Physician
             in
             Ordinary
             ,
             and
             Privy-Counsellour
             to
             the
             French
             King
             ;
             and
             faithfully
             Translated
             into
             English
             .
          
        
      
    
     
       
         
         
           A
           New
           Voyage
           TO
           THE
           LEVANT
           .
        
         
           
             LETTER
             I.
             
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
          
           
             I
             must
             beg
             leave
             to
             complain
             of
             the
             hardness
             of
             the
             Task
             you
             impose
             upon
             me
             ,
             by
             requiring
             me
             to
             give
             you
             an
             exact
             Relation
             of
             our
             present
             Campaign
             ,
             with
             the
             Description
             of
             those
             Cities
             in
             Germany
             which
             I
             shall
             have
             occasion
             to
             visit
             ;
             but
             neither
             the
             Troublesomness
             of
             such
             a
             Correspondence
             ,
             nor
             the
             Sence
             of
             my
             own
             Unfitness
             to
             Manage
             it
             ,
             shall
             make
             me
             decline
             an
             Undertaking
             by
             which
             I
             may
             convince
             you
             of
             my
             extream
             desire
             to
             obtain
             the
             honour
             of
             your
             Friendship
             ,
             and
             to
             secure
             my self
             in
             the
             Possession
             of
             it
             beyond
             the
             danger
             or
             fear
             of
             any
             future
             Alteration
             .
          
           
             I
             shall
             begin
             ,
             then
             ,
             with
             acquainting
             you
             ,
             that
             we
             were
             about
             eight
             Days
             ago
             quarter'd
             in
             a
             City
             call'd
             Spire
             ,
             which
             is
             now
             a
             heap
             of
             Stones
             :
             
             The
             Inhabitants
             have
             been
             threaten'd
             these
             three
             Months
             ,
             with
             the
             execution
             of
             that
             fatal
             Design
             of
             reducing
             the
             City
             to
             Ashes
             ,
             and
             during
             that
             time
             liv'd
             in
             a
             cruel
             Uncertainty
             ,
             and
             perpetual
             Fear
             of
             their
             impending
             Ruine
             .
             Spire
             was
             situated
             in
             the
             Palatinate
             of
             the
             Rhine
             ,
             call'd
             of
             old
             Nimetum
             ,
             and
             its
             Inhabitants
             Nimetes
             ;
             it
             was
             the
             Seat
             of
             the
             Imperial
             Chamber
             ,
             compos'd
             of
             two
             Presidents
             ,
             one
             a
             Catholick
             ,
             and
             the
             other
             a
             Protestant
             ;
             and
             fifteen
             Counsellors
             ,
             eight
             of
             the
             Romish
             ,
             and
             seven
             of
             the
             other
             Persuasion
             .
             The
             Elector
             of
             Triers
             held
             the
             Bishoprick
             of
             that
             City
             ,
             the
             Sovereignty
             of
             which
             is
             extended
             over
             several
             fine
             Territories
             ;
             and
             among
             the
             rest
             ,
             Philipsburg
             ,
             which
             the
             Emperor
             was
             oblig'd
             to
             restore
             to
             that
             Prelate
             ,
             by
             the
             Treaty
             concluded
             with
             France
             at
             Triers
             ,
             in
             1685.
             
             The
             Cathedral
             was
             a
             large
             and
             fine
             Structure
             ,
             well
             furnish'd
             with
             Lights
             ,
             and
             adorn'd
             with
             great
             Pyramidal
             Towers
             at
             the
             four
             Corners
             .
             On
             the
             Right-side
             of
             the
             Church
             stood
             the
             Episcopal
             Palace
             ,
             famous
             for
             its
             Architecture
             ,
             and
             enrich'd
             on
             the
             Inside
             with
             a
             great
             variety
             of
             fine
             Pictures
             ;
             and
             on
             the
             other
             side
             was
             the
             House
             of
             the
             Canons
             ,
             with
             a
             very
             ancient
             Cloyster
             ,
             in
             the
             middle
             of
             which
             there
             was
             a
             Mount
             of
             Olives
             cut
             in
             the
             Rock
             ,
             esteem'd
             to
             be
             a
             Master-piece
             of
             Sculpture
             .
             Before
             the
             Church
             there
             was
             a
             great
             Court
             or
             void
             Space
             ,
             capable
             of
             containing
             10000
             Men
             drawn
             up
             in
             Battalia
             .
             All
             the
             Houses
             that
             surrounded
             it
             were
             well
             built
             ,
             especially
             that
             of
             the
             Jesuits
             ,
             which
             fronted
             the
             Bishop's
             Palace
             ,
             where
             those
             Fathers
             had
             a
             very
             curious
             Library
             of
             above
             6000
             Volumes
             ,
             which
             was
             consum'd
             in
             the
             general
             Conflagration
             of
             the
             City
             ;
             with
             five
             or
             six
             others
             belonging
             to
             private
             Persons
             that
             were
             no
             less
             considerable
             .
             The
             Inhabitants
             of
             Spire
             were
             Rich
             ,
             and
             lovers
             of
             Pleasure
             :
             The
             City
             was
             surrounded
             with
             a
             great
             
             number
             of
             Gardens
             abundantly
             furnish'd
             with
             every
             thing
             that
             might
             contribute
             to
             the
             Advantage
             and
             Pleasure
             of
             the
             Owners
             ;
             for
             besides
             the
             Beauty
             of
             the
             Orange-Trees
             which
             were
             preserv'd
             there
             notwithstanding
             the
             Coldness
             of
             the
             Climate
             ;
             and
             the
             various
             Ornaments
             of
             cover'd
             and
             open'd
             Walks
             ,
             Flowers
             ,
             Water-Works
             ,
             and
             Statues
             ;
             there
             was
             a
             great
             abundance
             of
             all
             sorts
             of
             Fruit-Trees
             .
             Every
             Garden
             had
             also
             the
             convenience
             of
             a
             Pleasure-House
             ,
             very
             handsomly
             built
             ,
             and
             all
             over
             Painted
             and
             Gilt
             after
             the
             German
             Fashion
             ,
             in
             which
             the
             Gentlemen
             of
             Spire
             pass'd
             the
             time
             with
             a
             great
             deal
             of
             Satisfaction
             ,
             some
             in
             Drinking
             ,
             and
             others
             in
             more
             charming
             Diversions
             .
             The
             Town-House
             was
             famous
             for
             its
             Antiquity
             ,
             which
             was
             said
             to
             amount
             to
             above
             twelve
             Ages
             since
             its
             first
             Foundation
             ,
             but
             had
             nothing
             else
             to
             recommend
             it
             to
             the
             Observation
             of
             Travellers
             .
             Before
             the
             Gate
             there
             hung
             on
             an
             Iron-Ring
             ,
             a
             
               Bone
               of
               an
               Arm
            
             ,
             which
             equall'd
             a
             Thigh-Bone
             in
             bigness
             ,
             and
             was
             proportionably
             long
             .
             'T
             is
             affirm'd
             in
             the
             Records
             of
             the
             City
             ,
             that
             the
             Man
             to
             whom
             that
             Bone
             belong'd
             ,
             whose
             Name
             was
             Olps
             ,
             was
             twenty
             five
             Foot
             high
             ,
             and
             that
             he
             was
             kill'd
             about
             1300
             Years
             agoe
             in
             a
             Siege
             against
             the
             Town
             ,
             the
             Ladder
             breaking
             under
             him
             as
             he
             was
             scaling
             the
             Walls
             ;
             which
             gave
             a
             fair
             Opportunity
             to
             the
             Besieg'd
             to
             rid
             themselves
             of
             so
             formidable
             an
             Enemy
             ,
             by
             pouring
             whole
             Hogsheads
             of
             boiling
             Pitch
             upon
             him
             .
             His
             Hip-Bone
             was
             also
             preserved
             in
             the
             great
             Hall
             ,
             which
             I
             have
             often
             seen
             ,
             without
             giving
             much
             credit
             to
             the
             Story
             ;
             for
             t
             is
             hard
             to
             conceive
             ,
             that
             a
             Man
             of
             such
             a
             Gigantine
             Stature
             cou'd
             have
             escap'd
             the
             Obsrvation
             of
             Historians
             .
          
           
             To
             return
             to
             Spire
             ;
             The
             City
             was
             taken
             by
             the
             Dauphin
             about
             the
             end
             of
             the
             last
             Year
             ,
             (
             when
             he
             made
             himself
             Master
             of
             Philipsburg
             )
             
             and
             was
             immediately
             put
             under
             Contribution
             ;
             and
             besides
             ,
             6000
             Men
             were
             quarter'd
             in
             it
             during
             the
             Winter
             ,
             which
             made
             the
             Inhabitants
             believe
             they
             had
             already
             suffer'd
             the
             severest
             Effects
             of
             their
             Enemies
             Fury
             .
             But
             they
             were
             extremely
             surpriz'd
             ,
             when
             in
             the
             last
             Spring
             they
             were
             commanded
             to
             raise
             60000
             Crowns
             ,
             under
             pain
             of
             Burning
             .
             This
             rigorous
             Order
             cou'd
             not
             be
             executed
             without
             reducing
             'em
             to
             Beggary
             ;
             for
             Money
             was
             already
             very
             scarce
             in
             the
             City
             ,
             and
             yet
             those
             Wretches
             put
             themselves
             to
             the
             utmost
             stretch
             to
             raise
             the
             Summ
             ;
             which
             they
             had
             no
             sooner
             paid
             ,
             but
             the
             Baron
             
               de
               Monclair
            
             caus'd
             a
             Proclamation
             to
             be
             publish'd
             with
             Sound
             of
             Trumpet
             ,
             commanding
             all
             the
             Inhabitants
             to
             retire
             with
             their
             Goods
             ,
             because
             the
             Town
             was
             to
             be
             burnt
             on
             the
             5
             th
             .
             Day
             after
             the
             publishing
             of
             the
             Order
             .
             And
             to
             add
             to
             the
             Cruelty
             of
             their
             Punishment
             ,
             they
             were
             not
             suffer'd
             to
             pass
             the
             Rhine
             ,
             where
             they
             might
             have
             found
             some
             Assistance
             among
             their
             Friends
             and
             Relations
             ,
             but
             were
             forc'd
             to
             retire
             to
             Alsace
             ,
             among
             the
             French
             ,
             who
             treated
             them
             like
             so
             many
             Beasts
             ,
             without
             the
             least
             Mark
             of
             Humanity
             or
             Compassion
             .
             After
             all
             these
             Severities
             ,
             they
             might
             have
             found
             some
             Consolation
             even
             in
             the
             extremity
             of
             their
             Affliction
             ,
             if
             they
             had
             been
             furnish'd
             with
             Waggons
             for
             the
             Transportation
             of
             their
             Goods
             ;
             but
             they
             were
             not
             to
             expect
             the
             least
             Favour
             ,
             and
             were
             oblig'd
             to
             hire
             Waggons
             of
             the
             Peasants
             and
             Sutlers
             ,
             who
             ,
             taking
             Advantage
             of
             their
             Necessity
             ,
             made
             'em
             pay
             such
             excessive
             Rates
             ,
             that
             they
             were
             forc'd
             to
             leave
             the
             greatest
             part
             of
             their
             Goods
             for
             want
             of
             Carriage
             .
             In
             that
             time
             of
             Extremity
             I
             heard
             some
             of
             those
             miserable
             Creatures
             offer
             fifteen
             Crowns
             a-day
             for
             the
             use
             of
             a
             Horse
             ,
             that
             might
             have
             been
             bought
             for
             a
             smaller
             Summ.
             Never
             any
             Man
             beheld
             so
             touching
             an
             
             Object
             as
             was
             occasion'd
             by
             the
             Grief
             and
             Consternation
             that
             cover'd
             every
             Face
             in
             this
             unfortunate
             City
             ,
             at
             the
             publishing
             of
             the
             Burning-Order
             .
             Our
             Eyes
             and
             Ears
             were
             every
             where
             saluted
             with
             Tears
             and
             Lamentations
             ;
             the
             Women
             especially
             mov'd
             the
             hardest
             Hearts
             with
             Compassion
             ,
             their
             Despair
             making
             'em
             tear
             their
             Hair
             ,
             and
             strike
             their
             Heads
             against
             the
             Wall.
             
          
           
             At
             last
             the
             fatal
             Term
             being
             expir'd
             ,
             they
             were
             forc'd
             to
             bid
             a
             lasting
             Farewel
             to
             the
             City
             ,
             and
             with
             it
             to
             almost
             all
             their
             Goods
             and
             Possessions
             .
             Then
             their
             Lamentations
             began
             afresh
             ,
             and
             their
             Despair
             appear'd
             more
             visibly
             than
             ever
             ;
             nor
             was
             it
             possible
             for
             any
             Heart
             that
             was
             not
             entirely
             divested
             of
             all
             sence
             of
             Humanity
             ,
             to
             resist
             the
             Motions
             of
             Compassion
             that
             were
             excited
             at
             the
             sight
             of
             so
             deplorable
             an
             Object
             .
             Noblemen
             ,
             Tradesmen
             ,
             the
             Poor
             and
             the
             Rich
             ,
             began
             their
             doleful
             March
             ,
             without
             any
             Mark
             of
             Distinction
             ,
             all
             equally
             Miserable
             ;
             with
             this
             only
             difference
             ,
             that
             the
             Rich
             were
             more
             sensible
             of
             their
             Misfortunes
             than
             those
             whose
             Poverty
             secur'd
             'em
             from
             the
             danger
             of
             considerable
             Losses
             .
             I
             'm
             still
             fill'd
             with
             Horrour
             as
             often
             as
             I
             reflect
             on
             that
             dismal
             Spectacle
             ;
             and
             I
             'm
             confident
             you
             wou'd
             not
             be
             less
             deeply
             touch'd
             with
             a
             sence
             of
             the
             irrecoverable
             Ruine
             of
             so
             many
             innocent
             Persons
             ,
             if
             you
             had
             been
             an
             Eye-Witness
             of
             it
             .
             You
             cou'd
             not
             have
             beheld
             ,
             without
             feeling
             almost
             the
             same
             Transports
             of
             Sorrow
             ,
             two
             or
             three
             hundred
             Noble-women
             and
             Citizens
             Wives
             walking
             on
             foot
             in
             the
             midst
             of
             an
             Infinite
             Crowd
             of
             People
             ,
             and
             most
             of
             'em
             follow'd
             by
             five
             or
             six
             small
             Children
             ,
             some
             of
             'em
             hanging
             at
             the
             Mother's
             Breast
             ,
             not
             knowing
             where
             to
             shelter
             themselves
             during
             the
             Night
             ,
             nor
             where
             to
             find
             necessary
             Refreshment
             and
             Sustenance
             for
             their
             weary'd
             Bodies
             ;
             for
             the
             excessive
             
             Contributions
             that
             were
             exacted
             from
             'em
             ,
             had
             so
             drain'd
             their
             Purses
             ,
             that
             three
             quarters
             of
             'em
             were
             not
             Masters
             of
             one
             Peny
             ;
             and
             those
             who
             had
             the
             happiness
             to
             preserve
             the
             Remainders
             of
             their
             Money
             ,
             had
             hid
             it
             under-ground
             ,
             for
             fear
             of
             being
             robb'd
             by
             the
             Soldiers
             on
             the
             Road
             ,
             as
             several
             of
             'em
             were
             who
             had
             not
             us'd
             that
             Precaution
             .
          
           
             After
             their
             Departure
             ,
             the
             Town
             was
             abandon'd
             for
             two
             Days
             to
             the
             Mercy
             of
             the
             Soldiers
             ,
             who
             committed
             a
             Thousand
             Sacrileges
             ;
             for
             hoping
             to
             find
             some
             hidden
             Treasures
             ,
             they
             threw
             down
             the
             Altars
             ,
             dig'd
             up
             dead
             Bodies
             ,
             and
             rif●●d
             the
             most
             Ancient
             and
             Venerable
             Tombs
             ,
             without
             sparing
             those
             of
             an
             Emperour
             ,
             and
             several
             great
             Princes
             and
             Prelates
             that
             were
             in
             the
             Cathedral
             ,
             which
             they
             turn'd
             to
             a
             Stable
             .
          
           
             
               Places
               burnt●
               by
               the
               French
            
          
           
             While
             we
             are
             busi'd
             in
             demolishing
             Spire
             ,
             the
             Queen's
             Regiment
             ,
             and
             some
             others
             ,
             are
             employ'd
             in
             the
             same
             Exercise
             at
             Manheim
             ,
             a
             small
             City
             built
             by
             
               Charles
               Lewis
            
             ,
             Elector
             Palatine
             ,
             who
             had
             the
             conveniency
             of
             contriving
             the
             Fortifications
             as
             he
             pleas'd
             .
             All
             the
             Houses
             were
             exactly
             uniform
             ,
             and
             the
             four
             Gates
             might
             be
             seen
             at
             once
             from
             the
             Place
             of
             Arms
             in
             the
             midst
             of
             the
             Town
             .
             This
             was
             so
             important
             and
             advantageous
             a
             Post
             ,
             that
             Monsieur
             Vauban
             said
             one
             Day
             to
             the
             King
             ,
             That
             whatever
             Prince
             was
             Master
             of
             Manheim
             and
             Philipsburg
             ,
             might
             at
             once
             maintain
             a
             War
             against
             his
             Majesty
             and
             the
             Emperour
             .
             The
             Baroness
             of
             Aiguenfeld
             ,
             the
             second
             Wife
             ,
             or
             (
             if
             you
             will
             )
             the
             Mistress
             of
             that
             Elector
             ,
             was
             buri●d
             in
             this
             City
             :
             And
             our
             Soldiers
             not
             only
             broke
             open
             her
             Tomb
             ,
             but
             threw
             her
             Bones
             without
             the
             Walls
             .
             The
             Dutchess
             of
             Orleans
             pretends
             to
             have
             receiv'd
             several
             ill
             Offices
             from
             that
             Lady
             ;
             but
             I
             'm
             the
             less
             inclinable
             to
             think
             that
             she
             was
             accessory
             to
             such
             an
             inhuman
             Action
             ,
             when
             I
             consider
             her
             Kindness
             to
             the
             Rhograves
             ,
             that
             Barone●s's
             Children
             .
             
               Worms
               ,
               Frankendal
               ,
               Ladenburg
               ,
               Openheim
               ,
            
             and
             Keidiscum
             ,
             are
             under
             the
             same
             Sentence
             that
             has
             been
             executed
             on
             Manheim
             and
             Spire
             :
             But
             since
             I
             never
             was
             in
             any
             of
             those
             Places
             ,
             I
             cannot
             gratifie
             your
             Curiosity
             with
             an
             exact
             Description
             of
             'em
             ,
             only
             I
             can
             inform
             you
             that
             they
             were
             considerable
             Towns
             ,
             and
             that
             they
             are
             either
             already
             demolish'd
             ,
             or
             
             will
             be
             quickly
             reduc'd
             to
             such
             a
             Condition
             ,
             that
             all
             that
             can
             be
             henceforth
             said
             of
             'em
             is
             ,
             
               Here
               stood
            
             Worms
             ,
             Spire
             ,
             Manheim
             ,
             &c.
             
          
           
             These
             ,
             Sir
             ,
             are
             all
             the
             remarkable
             Transactions
             with
             which
             I
             can
             at
             present
             acquaint
             you
             ;
          
           
             I
             am
             ,
             
               SIR
               ,
            
             
               Your
               &c.
               
            
             
               From
               the
               Camp
               at
               Spire
               ,
               
                 June
                 1689.
                 
              
            
          
        
         
           
             LETTER
             II.
             
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
          
           
             I
             Hope
             this
             Letter
             will
             in
             some
             measure
             atone
             for
             my
             long
             Silence
             ,
             and
             convince
             you
             that
             my
             Neglect
             was
             not
             the
             only
             Cause
             of
             my
             not
             writing
             to
             you
             once
             every
             Month
             ,
             according
             to
             your
             Desire
             :
             For
             I
             concluded
             that
             a
             compleat
             Relation
             of
             the
             Compaign
             wou'd
             be
             a
             more
             acceptable
             Present
             to
             you
             ,
             than
             if
             I
             had
             sent
             you
             from
             time
             to
             time
             some
             interrupted
             and
             ill-connected
             Accounts
             of
             it
             .
             Besides
             ,
             I
             was
             so
             little
             Master
             of
             my
             Time
             during
             the
             whole
             Month
             of
             August
             ,
             that
             you
             cannot
             with
             Justice
             refuse
             to
             put
             a
             less
             severe
             Construction
             on
             my
             Silence
             :
             And
             I
             'm
             confident
             that
             after
             you
             have
             read
             the
             Account
             of
             my
             Misfortunes
             in
             the
             beginning
             of
             this
             Month
             ,
             you
             will
             esteem
             me
             a
             fitter
             Object
             of
             your
             Compassion
             than
             Anger
             .
             Perhaps
             you
             little
             expected
             to
             hear
             of
             my
             Confinement
             to
             a
             close
             Prison
             for
             fifteen
             Days
             ;
             but
             I
             can
             assure
             you
             ,
             that
             if
             the
             Marquess
             D'Efiat
             had
             not
             vouchsaf'd
             me
             his
             Protection
             ,
             and
             clear'd
             me
             of
             all
             
             my
             suspected
             Crimes
             ,
             in
             a
             Letter
             to
             Monsieur
             
               de
               Chamilly
            
             ,
             for
             ought
             I
             know
             ,
             I
             might
             have
             been
             still
             in
             the
             same
             Condition
             .
             But
             before
             I
             give
             you
             a
             particular
             Account
             of
             that
             Accident
             ,
             the
             Order
             of
             time
             obliges
             me
             to
             entertain
             you
             with
             a
             Relation
             of
             our
             Warlike
             Expeditions
             .
          
           
             While
             our
             Army
             ,
             in
             July
             ,
             lay
             quiet
             ,
             the
             Elector
             of
             Brandenburg
             attack'd
             and
             took
             Keiserwaert
             :
             And
             we
             were
             afterwards
             inform'd
             ,
             that
             ,
             not
             content
             with
             that
             Success
             ,
             he
             sate
             down
             before
             Bonn
             ;
             and
             that
             Mentz
             was
             invested
             by
             the
             Dukes
             of
             Bavaria
             and
             Lorrain
             ,
             with
             an
             Army
             of
             Seventy
             thousand
             Men
             ,
             which
             oblig'd
             us
             to
             make
             a
             Diversion
             in
             the
             Palatinate
             :
             And
             that
             Design
             was
             executed
             with
             so
             much
             Fury
             and
             Cruelty
             ,
             that
             Posterity
             will
             hardly
             ever
             give
             credit
             to
             that
             part
             of
             the
             History
             of
             our
             Age.
             We
             pass●d
             the
             Rhine
             at
             Philips●urg
             on
             a
             Bridge
             of
             Boats
             ,
             in
             the
             beginning
             of
             August
             .
             I
             need
             not
             tell
             you
             that
             this
             City
             was
             surrender'd
             to
             the
             Dauphin
             on
             his
             Birth-day
             (
             Novemb.
             1.
             )
             which
             he
             render'd
             famous
             by
             his
             first
             Conquest
             :
             But
             I
             cannot
             forbear
             doing
             Justice
             to
             the
             Bravery
             and
             Greatness
             of
             Mind
             which
             he
             shew'd
             on
             that
             Occasion
             .
             For
             he
             was
             everywhere
             present
             ,
             and
             neither
             gave
             his
             Orders
             by
             Proxy
             ,
             nor
             suffer'd
             any
             thing
             to
             be
             done
             without
             his
             Knowledge
             .
             Philipsburg
             is
             a
             very
             inconsiderable
             Town
             ,
             scarce
             able
             to
             contain
             a
             numerous
             Garison
             ,
             nor
             can
             it
             boast
             of
             one
             remarkable
             House
             ,
             but
             that
             which
             belongs
             to
             the
             Governour
             .
             But
             ,
             notwithstanding
             those
             Defects
             ,
             't
             is
             a
             place
             of
             great
             importance
             ,
             both
             by
             reason
             of
             its
             Situation
             between
             the
             Rhine
             and
             a
             large
             and
             deep
             Marsh
             ,
             and
             its
             numerous
             Fortifications
             .
             There
             was
             a
             Redoubt
             on
             the
             other
             side
             of
             the
             Rhine
             to
             defend
             the
             Passage
             of
             the
             River
             ,
             which
             the
             Dauphin
             took
             in
             two
             Days
             :
             But
             there
             are
             so
             many
             new
             Works
             added
             ,
             that
             it
             may
             be
             call'd
             
             more
             properly
             a
             considerable
             Fort
             than
             a
             simple
             Redoubt
             .
             The
             next
             Day
             we
             encamp'd
             before
             Heydelberg
             ,
             which
             we
             invested
             on
             the
             side
             next
             the
             Rhine
             .
             This
             City
             was
             part
             of
             our
             last
             Year's
             Conquests
             ,
             and
             had
             paid
             Contributions
             two
             or
             three
             times
             .
             Some
             of
             our
             Troops
             had
             their
             Winter-Quarters
             in
             it
             ,
             and
             possess'd
             it
             without
             the
             least
             Disturbance
             till
             the
             Spring
             ,
             when
             by
             an
             unaccountable
             sort
             of
             Policy
             ,
             we
             blew
             up
             the
             Castle
             ,
             and
             left
             the
             Town
             (
             I
             think
             )
             on
             purpose
             that
             we
             might
             have
             the
             pleasure
             of
             Besieging
             it
             two
             Months
             after
             :
             For
             you
             must
             not
             imagine
             because
             the
             Trenches
             were
             not
             open'd
             ,
             that
             the
             Siege
             was
             never
             really
             intended
             ,
             since
             't
             is
             plain
             from
             reason
             that
             we
             sate
             down
             before
             it
             with
             that
             design
             ,
             because
             we
             cou'd
             not
             have
             chosen
             a
             more
             probable
             way
             to
             divert
             the
             Imperial
             Forces
             :
             And
             besides
             ,
             't
             is
             certain
             that
             Monsieur
             
               de
               Duras
            
             had
             given
             Orders
             for
             a
             general
             Assault
             the
             Day
             on
             which
             the
             Place
             was
             reliev'd
             by
             a
             Detachment
             of
             3000
             Men
             ,
             who
             enter'd
             the
             Town
             with
             several
             Boats
             laden
             with
             Ammunition
             ,
             and
             all
             sorts
             of
             necessary
             Provisions
             .
             However
             ,
             our
             Army
             ,
             consisting
             of
             25000
             Men
             ,
             with
             45
             Pieces
             of
             Cannon
             ,
             lay
             seven
             Days
             before
             it
             ,
             during
             which
             time
             we
             lost
             8
             or
             900
             good
             Soldiers
             ,
             besides
             several
             Officers
             ;
             and
             were
             at
             last
             forc'd
             to
             leave
             a
             defenceless
             Town
             ,
             that
             might
             have
             been
             storm'd
             with
             Sword
             in
             Hand
             the
             first
             Night
             we
             sate
             down
             before
             it
             :
             For
             we
             had
             already
             ruin'd
             those
             inconsiderable
             Fortifications
             that
             defended
             it
             ,
             before
             we
             left
             it
             in
             the
             Spring
             :
             And
             at
             the
             same
             time
             we
             blew
             up
             the
             Castle
             ,
             or
             at
             least
             the
             best
             part
             of
             it
             ,
             in
             which
             alone
             the
             strength
             of
             the
             Place
             consisted
             .
             Nevertheless
             all
             its
             Defects
             might
             have
             been
             corrected
             by
             an
             industrious
             Master
             :
             And
             besides
             ,
             it
             must
             be
             acknowledg'd
             to
             be
             a
             Place
             of
             great
             Importance
             ,
             if
             we
             consider
             the
             
             Advantages
             of
             its
             Situation
             ;
             for
             it
             wou'd
             have
             open'd
             a
             Passage
             on
             the
             Neckar
             ,
             and
             made
             us
             Masters
             of
             the
             whole
             Country
             as
             far
             as
             Franckfort
             .
          
           
             Heydelberg
             is
             the
             Chief
             City
             of
             the
             Palatinate
             of
             the
             Rhine
             ,
             seated
             on
             the
             Neckar
             ,
             in
             a
             Bottom
             betwixt
             two
             Hills
             .
             The
             Castle
             where
             the
             Electors
             formerly
             resided
             ,
             stands
             on
             a
             Hillock
             that
             commands
             the
             Town
             ,
             and
             has
             the
             Advantage
             of
             a
             lovely
             ,
             but
             of
             late
             neglected
             Garden
             .
             The
             Strangers
             that
             pass'd
             thro'
             this
             City
             never
             fail'd
             to
             pay
             a
             Visit
             to
             the
             famous
             Tun
             ,
             of
             above
             a
             hundred
             Years
             standing
             ,
             and
             were
             usually
             receiv'd
             with
             the
             
               ●●llkom
               ▪
            
             which
             is
             a
             Glass
             containing
             about
             two
             Quarts
             .
             The
             French
             ,
             who
             quarter'd
             here
             during
             the
             Winter
             ,
             were
             so
             sensible
             of
             the
             Charms
             of
             that
             hospitable
             Vessel
             ,
             that
             they
             left
             not
             one
             Drop
             in
             it
             ,
             tho'
             it
             contain'd
             above
             300
             Hogsheads
             of
             Wine
             .
             Near
             the
             City
             there
             is
             a
             fair
             Church
             ,
             consisting
             of
             three
             several
             Vaults
             ,
             under
             which
             the
             
               Catholicks
               ,
               Lutherans
            
             ,
             and
             Calvinists
             perform
             Divine
             Service
             .
             It
             was
             built
             by
             
               Charles
               Lewis
            
             ,
             Elector
             Palatine
             ,
             who
             nam'd
             it
             
               The
               Temple
               of
               Concord
            
             ,
             to
             put
             his
             Subjects
             in
             mind
             that
             their
             Temporal
             Safety
             depended
             on
             their
             Union
             ;
             and
             that
             a
             diversity
             of
             Interests
             was
             not
             a
             necessary
             Consequence
             of
             Difference
             in
             Religion
             .
             This
             City
             was
             formerly
             Mistress
             of
             one
             of
             the
             finest
             Libraries
             in
             the
             World
             ,
             which
             she
             possess'd
             till
             the
             Year
             1622
             ,
             when
             Count
             Tilly
             having
             taken
             the
             City
             ,
             sent
             part
             of
             the
             Books
             to
             Rome
             ,
             while
             the
             rest
             were
             dispers'd
             like
             those
             of
             Alexandria
             ,
             to
             the
             irreparable
             Loss
             of
             the
             learned
             World
             ;
             since
             no
             other
             Library
             contain'd
             so
             numerous
             a
             Collection
             of
             rare
             Manuscripts
             .
          
           
             The
             City
             being
             secur●d
             by
             a
             seasonable
             Relief
             from
             our
             intended
             Assault
             ,
             we
             decamp'd
             on
             the
             9
             th
             .
             before
             Day
             ,
             and
             having
             march'd
             two
             Leagues
             ,
             arriv●d
             about
             eight
             a-clock
             at
             the
             little
             Town
             of
             Wiseloch
             ,
             which
             we
             burnt
             in
             our
             Passage
             ,
             
             after
             we
             had
             thrust
             out
             the
             Inhabitants
             .
             Sinsennes
             ,
             and
             several
             other
             Villages
             ,
             met
             with
             the
             same
             Treatment
             from
             our
             Dragoons
             ,
             who
             were
             always
             entrusted
             with
             these
             fiery
             Commissions
             .
             These
             Ministers
             of
             our
             Fury
             allow'd
             no
             longer
             respite
             to
             the
             Places
             they
             were
             order'd
             to
             destroy
             ,
             than
             what
             might
             give
             'em
             leisure
             to
             plunder
             the
             best
             Effects
             of
             the
             Inhabitants
             ,
             ravish
             their
             Wives
             and
             Daughters
             ,
             and
             commit
             a
             thousand
             other
             Disorders
             .
             The
             Fame
             of
             our
             Cruelties
             was
             quickly
             spread
             over
             the
             Countries
             of
             Wirtemberg
             and
             Baden
             ,
             and
             drove
             away
             all
             the
             Inhabitants
             of
             the
             Towns
             and
             Villages
             to
             which
             we
             approach'd
             ;
             who
             fled
             from
             us
             as
             from
             the
             Enemies
             and
             Destroyers
             of
             Mankind
             ,
             endeavouring
             to
             save
             their
             Lives
             in
             the
             Woods
             and
             Forests
             ,
             where
             many
             of
             'em
             seeking
             to
             avoid
             one
             kind
             of
             Death
             ,
             met
             with
             another
             no
             less
             terrible
             ,
             and
             chose
             rather
             to
             be
             starv'd
             than
             kill'd
             ;
             so
             that
             from
             hence-forward
             during
             our
             whole
             March
             ,
             we
             found
             not
             one
             Person
             ,
             either
             in
             the
             Towns
             or
             Country
             thro'
             which
             we
             pass'd
             .
             Only
             Weingarten
             and
             Bruchsal
             pretended
             to
             stop
             our
             Career
             ;
             but
             two
             Days
             after
             they
             were
             constrain'd
             to
             Surrender
             ,
             and
             both
             the
             Garrisons
             and
             Inhabitants
             were
             made
             Prisoners
             of
             War
             ,
             and
             the
             Towns
             were
             treated
             with
             the
             same
             Severity
             with
             those
             that
             were
             formerly
             mention'd
             ,
             by
             the
             Troops
             that
             enter'd
             into
             '
             em
             .
             At
             the
             same
             time
             Monsieur
             
               de
               Boufflers
            
             ,
             who
             commanded
             a
             Flying
             Camp
             ,
             came
             before
             a
             little
             Town
             call'd
             Cocheim
             ,
             in
             which
             there
             was
             a
             Garrison
             of
             600
             Men
             ,
             and
             fearing
             least
             the
             Place
             shou'd
             be
             reliev'd
             ,
             immediately
             gave
             Orders
             for
             an
             Assault
             ,
             which
             was
             carry'd
             on
             and
             receiv'd
             with
             equal
             Vigour
             and
             Bravery
             .
             The
             Action
             lasted
             two
             Hours
             ,
             after
             which
             our
             Men
             were
             oblig'd
             to
             retire
             ;
             but
             the
             Major
             ,
             who
             commanded
             in
             the
             Town
             ,
             contenting
             himself
             with
             so
             remarkable
             a
             Success
             ,
             and
             concluding
             that
             the
             
             Courage
             of
             the
             French
             Troops
             was
             so
             well
             cool'd
             ,
             that
             they
             wou'd
             hardly
             venture
             to
             return
             to
             a
             place
             where
             they
             had
             met
             with
             so
             rough
             a
             Treatment
             ,
             instead
             of
             taking
             Measures
             to
             prevent
             a
             Surprize
             ,
             went
             to
             recruit
             his
             Spirits
             after
             so
             hot
             an
             Action
             ,
             with
             a
             Glass
             of
             his
             beloved
             Wine
             :
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             Monsieur
             
               de
               Boufflers
            
             ,
             upon
             a
             Signal
             which
             was
             made
             to
             him
             by
             some
             Traytors
             in
             the
             Town
             ,
             commanded
             his
             Dragoons
             to
             renew
             the
             Attack
             ,
             which
             they
             did
             with
             greater
             Vigour
             than
             before
             ,
             and
             storming
             the
             Town
             ,
             ran
             to
             the
             place
             of
             Arms
             ,
             with
             their
             Swords
             in
             their
             Hands
             ,
             where
             they
             found
             the
             Garrison
             drawn
             up
             in
             Battalia
             ,
             whom
             they
             put
             to
             the
             Sword
             ,
             not
             allowing
             them
             the
             benefit
             of
             Quarter
             .
             The
             Slaughter
             lasted
             three
             Hours
             ,
             during
             which
             ,
             Men
             ,
             Women
             ,
             and
             Children
             were
             kill'd
             without
             Mercy
             :
             Nor
             could
             the
             Fury
             of
             the
             Soldiers
             be
             stopp'd
             till
             the
             General
             had
             by
             repeated
             Orders
             commanded
             'em
             to
             put
             an
             end
             to
             the
             Massacre
             .
             They
             were
             Masters
             of
             the
             Art
             of
             squeezing
             Money
             even
             out
             of
             those
             who
             had
             none
             ,
             which
             they
             had
             learn'd
             in
             France
             ,
             at
             the
             expence
             of
             the
             poor
             Protestants
             ;
             and
             here
             they
             display'd
             all
             their
             Skill
             ,
             using
             the
             Inhabitants
             with
             the
             utmost
             Barbarity
             ,
             to
             make
             'em
             discover
             their
             Treasures
             .
             From
             thence
             Monsieur
             
               de
               Boufflers
            
             ,
             continuing
             his
             March
             and
             his
             Cruelties
             ,
             burnt
             entirely
             the
             Towns
             of
             
               Keyseresch
               ,
               Dhonu
               ,
               Hellesheim
               ,
               Meyem
               ,
               Ulman
               ,
               Kerpen
               ,
            
             and
             all
             the
             other
             Cities
             and
             Villages
             of
             that
             Country
             ,
             which
             oblig'd
             the
             Elector
             of
             Brandenburg
             to
             detach
             10000
             Men
             ,
             under
             the
             command
             of
             General
             Schonen
             ,
             to
             give
             him
             Battle
             ;
             but
             that
             Unfaithful
             Officer
             communicated
             the
             Orders
             he
             had
             receiv'd
             to
             the
             Marquess
             
               de
               Boufflers
            
             ,
             who
             immediately
             retir'd
             to
             Philipsburg
             .
          
           
           
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             we
             were
             no
             less
             careful
             than
             
             Boufflers's
             Dragoons
             to
             act
             the
             part
             of
             brave
             Incendiaries
             ,
             and
             continu'd
             our
             March
             from
             Bruchsal
             to
             ●aden
             and
             Durlach
             ,
             where
             we
             found
             the
             Ware-Houses
             ,
             Shops
             ,
             and
             Houses
             full
             of
             Commodities
             and
             Furniture
             ,
             but
             altogether
             void
             of
             Inhabitants
             ,
             who
             were
             taught
             by
             the
             Misfortunes
             of
             their
             Neighbours
             ,
             not
             to
             expect
             our
             Visit
             .
             The
             Pillage
             lasted
             two
             Days
             ;
             after
             which
             the
             Cities
             were
             set
             on
             Fire
             ,
             after
             the
             laudable
             Custom
             of
             this
             Campaign
             .
          
           
             Baden
             is
             situated
             in
             Suabia
             ,
             and
             gives
             the
             Title
             of
             Marquess
             to
             a
             Family
             ,
             the
             Head
             of
             which
             is
             a
             Prince
             of
             the
             Empire
             on
             a
             double
             Account
             ,
             both
             by
             his
             Birth
             ,
             which
             is
             Ancient
             and
             Illustrious
             ,
             and
             by
             his
             Principality
             ,
             which
             gives
             him
             a
             Voice
             in
             the
             Diets
             of
             the
             Empire
             .
             The
             Town
             was
             Rich
             ,
             embellish'd
             with
             fine
             Houses
             ,
             fair
             Streets
             ,
             and
             lovely
             Gardens
             ;
             and
             besides
             had
             the
             Advantage
             of
             the
             most
             remarkable
             Baths
             in
             Europe
             .
             The
             Princess
             of
             Baden
             left
             no
             means
             on
             her
             side
             to
             preserve
             their
             City
             ;
             she
             sollicited
             the
             General
             and
             the
             King
             himself
             ,
             and
             offer'd
             to
             demolish
             the
             Walls
             ;
             but
             all
             her
             Endeavours
             cou'd
             not
             procure
             the
             least
             Mitigation
             of
             its
             Doom
             ,
             and
             Baden
             was
             laid
             in
             Ashes
             ,
             as
             well
             as
             its
             Neighbouring
             Towns.
             
          
           
             Four
             Leagues
             from
             hence
             lay
             Durlach
             ,
             call'd
             in
             
               Latine
               ,
               Durlacum
            
             ,
             which
             gives
             some
             Title
             of
             Honour
             ,
             to
             the
             Younger
             Branch
             of
             the
             House
             of
             Baden
             ,
             who
             have
             also
             a
             Voice
             in
             the
             Diets
             .
             It
             was
             in
             my
             Opinion
             a
             larger
             and
             fairer
             Town
             than
             Baden
             ,
             inhabited
             by
             several
             rich
             Merchants
             ,
             and
             a
             considerable
             number
             of
             Persons
             of
             Quality
             ,
             and
             adorn'd
             with
             many
             magnificent
             Structures
             ,
             which
             I
             had
             not
             time
             to
             consider
             at
             leisure
             ,
             before
             the
             fatal
             Sentence
             was
             executed
             upon
             '
             em
             .
             The
             Castle
             particularly
             was
             a
             stately
             Edifice
             ;
             a
             magnificent
             Portal
             open'd
             a
             Passage
             
             into
             a
             vast
             Court
             ;
             from
             whence
             we
             ascended
             by
             a
             broad
             Stair-Case
             ,
             to
             a
             large
             Hall
             ,
             out
             of
             which
             you
             might
             pass
             into
             the
             Apartments
             appointed
             for
             Winter
             and
             Summer
             ,
             and
             all
             the
             other
             Seasons
             .
             The
             Furniture
             of
             all
             these
             Apartments
             was
             very
             rich
             ,
             and
             well-contriv'd
             ,
             at
             least
             as
             far
             as
             I
             cou'd
             judge
             by
             what
             was
             left
             ;
             for
             the
             most
             precious
             Part
             of
             it
             ,
             with
             all
             the
             Plate
             ,
             was
             remov'd
             ;
             only
             there
             remain'd
             several
             Pieces
             of
             very
             fine
             Tapestry
             richly
             Wrought
             ,
             Embroider'd
             Silk
             Beds
             of
             great
             Value
             ,
             and
             some
             of
             Gold
             and
             Silver
             ;
             Tables
             and
             Cabinets
             of
             China-Work
             ,
             Looking-Glasses
             ,
             magnificent
             Lamps
             of
             Chrystal
             ,
             and
             several
             other
             Ornaments
             of
             the
             same
             Nature
             ;
             which
             inspir'd
             the
             Beholder
             with
             a
             great
             Idea
             of
             the
             Richness
             of
             that
             part
             of
             the
             Furniture
             which
             was
             remov'd
             .
             The
             Platfond
             of
             the
             Library
             was
             enrich'd
             with
             Gilding
             and
             very
             curious
             Paintings
             ,
             and
             it
             contain'd
             between
             four
             and
             five
             thousand
             Volumes
             ;
             adjoining
             to
             this
             were
             two
             Cabinets
             full
             of
             Papers
             rank'd
             from
             top
             to
             bottom
             in
             very
             good
             Order
             .
             The
             dispositions
             of
             the
             Gardens
             were
             suitable
             to
             the
             Beauty
             of
             the
             House
             ,
             and
             the
             Eye
             was
             every
             where
             saluted
             with
             Objects
             of
             Pleasure
             ;
             but
             all
             those
             Beauties
             were
             consum'd
             by
             the
             merciless
             Fire
             ,
             and
             reduc'd
             to
             a
             few
             Heaps
             of
             Ashes
             ,
             and
             dismal
             Ruines
             .
             During
             our
             abode
             here
             ,
             the
             Germans
             ,
             who
             had
             made
             a
             Detachment
             of
             Two
             or
             Three
             thousand
             Men
             to
             disturb
             us
             ,
             took
             some
             of
             our
             Men
             ,
             with
             Two
             hundred
             Horses
             that
             were
             Forraging
             in
             the
             Country
             .
             They
             had
             done
             the
             same
             at
             Sinsennes
             ,
             and
             besides
             a
             terrible
             Sickness
             made
             such
             a
             prodigious
             Havock
             among
             our
             Troops
             ,
             that
             when
             we
             arriv'd
             at
             Strasburg
             we
             were
             forc'd
             to
             send
             above
             Six
             thousand
             Men
             to
             the
             Hospital
             ,
             which
             lessen'd
             our
             Army
             to
             such
             a
             Degree
             ,
             that
             the
             Number
             of
             those
             who
             were
             render'd
             useless
             by
             the
             Sickness
             ,
             with
             those
             who
             were
             kill'd
             at
             
               Heydelberg
               ,
               Bruch●al
            
             ,
             and
             Weingarten
             amounted
             to
             11000
             Men
             ,
             of
             which
             there
             
             were
             at
             least
             5000
             dead
             ,
             without
             reckoning
             above
             1000
             Horses
             ,
             that
             were
             either
             taken
             from
             us
             ,
             or
             dy'd
             by
             the
             Way
             ;
             for
             the
             ill
             Weather
             that
             had
             lasted
             during
             the
             whole
             Campaign
             ,
             had
             so
             weaken'd
             and
             spoil'd
             'em
             ,
             that
             only
             such
             who
             were
             very
             well
             mounted
             were
             Masters
             of
             a
             Horse
             fit
             for
             Service
             .
          
           
             To
             return
             to
             our
             March
             ;
             We
             decamp'd
             from
             Durlach
             ,
             and
             leaving
             Fort-Lewis
             on
             our
             Right-hand
             ,
             which
             is
             a
             strong
             and
             well-fortify'd
             Place
             ,
             built
             by
             the
             King's
             Order
             ,
             we
             arriv'd
             before
             Stolof
             ,
             the
             only
             Town
             that
             escap'd
             the
             utmost
             Marks
             of
             our
             Fury
             ;
             for
             the
             Magistrates
             ,
             to
             appease
             
               Monsieur
               de
               Duras
            
             ,
             presented
             him
             with
             the
             Summ
             of
             50000
             Crowns
             ,
             which
             prevail'd
             so
             far
             on
             his
             good
             Nature
             ,
             that
             he
             contented
             himself
             with
             ordering
             the
             Town
             to
             be
             pillag'd
             ,
             and
             the
             Walls
             to
             be
             demolish'd
             .
             Two
             days
             after
             we
             arriv'd
             near
             Strasburg
             ,
             where
             I
             was
             constrain'd
             to
             leave
             the
             Army
             ,
             in
             a
             manner
             that
             was
             not
             very
             agreeable
             to
             my
             Humour
             .
             I
             was
             struck
             with
             so
             much
             Horrour
             ,
             when
             I
             reflected
             on
             the
             Barbarities
             ,
             and
             the
             Desolation
             of
             so
             many
             Towns
             of
             which
             I
             had
             been
             an
             Eye-witness
             ,
             and
             sometimes
             an
             Instrument
             ,
             that
             I
             cou'd
             not
             forbear
             expressing
             my
             Indignation
             ,
             and
             was
             therefore
             look'd
             upon
             as
             a
             suspicious
             Person
             by
             some
             of
             our
             most
             resolute
             Burners
             .
             It
             happen'd
             one
             day
             ,
             that
             being
             engag'd
             in
             a
             pretty
             warm
             Dispute
             with
             some
             Officers
             that
             were
             none
             of
             my
             best
             Friends
             ,
             at
             the
             General
             's
             Quarters
             ,
             I
             handl'd
             those
             nice
             Points
             with
             a
             great
             deal
             of
             Freedom
             ,
             and
             plainly
             told
             'em
             my
             Opinion
             of
             the
             Revolution
             in
             England
             ,
             and
             of
             the
             Difference
             between
             King
             
             William's
             Way
             of
             making
             War
             ,
             and
             that
             which
             was
             in
             Fashion
             among
             us
             .
             So
             bold
             a
             Declaration
             of
             my
             Sentiments
             ,
             procur'd
             me
             the
             Title
             of
             the
             Prince
             of
             Orange's
             Spy
             ;
             and
             Complaints
             were
             made
             against
             me
             to
             the
             Count
             
               de
               Marsin
            
             ,
             Commander
             of
             the
             Brigade
             ,
             who
             order'd
             me
             to
             be
             apprehended
             ,
             and
             
             carry'd
             to
             Strasburg
             ;
             tho'
             I
             must
             own
             my self
             oblig'd
             to
             him
             ,
             that
             he
             forbore
             putting
             me
             in
             the
             Mercy
             of
             a
             
               Council
               of
               War
            
             ,
             till
             he
             shou'd
             receive
             a
             clearer
             Information
             of
             my
             Crime
             ;
             in
             order
             to
             which
             he
             commanded
             my
             Trunks
             to
             be
             seiz'd
             ,
             where
             he
             found
             nothing
             to
             confirm
             his
             Suspicions
             ,
             but
             a
             
               Book
               of
               Psalms
            
             ,
             which
             was
             a
             sufficient
             Demonstration
             (
             of
             what
             I
             did
             not
             deny
             )
             that
             I
             had
             been
             a
             Hugonot
             .
             But
             the
             Marquess
             
               d'
               Efiat
            
             had
             the
             Generosity
             (
             as
             I
             told
             you
             before
             )
             to
             give
             me
             so
             favourable
             a
             Character
             in
             a
             Letter
             which
             he
             wrote
             to
             
               Monsieur
               de
               Chamilly
            
             on
             this
             Occasion
             ,
             that
             I
             was
             set
             at
             Liberty
             after
             an
             Imprisonment
             of
             fifteen
             Days
             ,
             without
             any
             other
             Punishment
             ,
             than
             that
             I
             was
             oblig'd
             to
             hear
             the
             tedious
             Exhortations
             of
             certain
             Jesuits
             and
             Capuchins
             ,
             to
             whom
             I
             promis'd
             to
             be
             a
             
               Good
               Catholick
            
             for
             the
             future
             .
          
           
             We
             are
             inform'd
             that
             Mentz
             was
             surrender'd
             on
             the
             8
             th
             .
             instant
             ,
             notwithstanding
             the
             brave
             Resistance
             made
             by
             the
             Marquess
             
               d'
               Uxelles
            
             ,
             Governour
             of
             the
             Place
             ,
             who
             perform'd
             on
             this
             occasion
             ,
             all
             that
             cou'd
             be
             expected
             from
             a
             Man
             of
             Courage
             and
             an
             experienc'd
             Captain
             ;
             and
             defended
             a
             Place
             which
             is
             not
             very
             considerable
             for
             its
             Strength
             ,
             against
             a
             numerous
             Army
             commanded
             by
             two
             Princes
             ,
             on
             whom
             ,
             without
             running
             the
             hazard
             of
             being
             accus'd
             of
             Flattery
             ,
             I
             may
             bestow
             the
             glorious
             Title
             of
             Heroes
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             he
             lost
             a
             great
             number
             of
             Men
             ;
             but
             none
             that
             are
             acquainted
             with
             Affairs
             of
             this
             Nature
             ,
             will
             be
             surpriz'd
             at
             the
             lessening
             of
             the
             Numbers
             of
             a
             Garrison
             that
             turn
             the
             War
             upon
             their
             Besiegers
             ,
             and
             make
             three
             vigorous
             Sallies
             in
             one
             Day
             .
             The
             most
             considerable
             Loss
             they
             sustain'd
             ,
             was
             occasion'd
             by
             the
             general
             Assault
             of
             the
             Counterscarp
             ,
             on
             the
             7
             th
             .
             instant
             in
             the
             Evening
             ,
             which
             lasted
             five
             Hours
             ,
             and
             was
             both
             carry'd
             on
             ,
             and
             receiv'd
             with
             such
             an
             obstinate
             Fury
             ,
             that
             few
             old
             Soldiers
             can
             pretend
             to
             have
             seen
             so
             warm
             a
             Dispute
             .
             But
             at
             last
             the
             Besieg'd
             
             were
             forc'd
             to
             retire
             ,
             their
             Powder
             failing
             ,
             and
             most
             of
             their
             Musquets
             being
             split
             ;
             and
             the
             Imperialists
             lodg'd
             themselves
             on
             the
             Counterscarp
             ,
             and
             began
             to
             fill
             up
             the
             Ditch
             ,
             in
             order
             to
             assault
             the
             Town
             ,
             which
             oblig'd
             the
             Governour
             to
             beat
             a
             Parley
             ,
             and
             Capitulate
             .
             The
             Garrison
             march'd
             out
             with
             their
             Arms
             and
             Baggage
             ,
             Drums
             beating
             ,
             Colours
             flying
             ,
             Matches
             lighted
             ,
             and
             their
             Bullets
             in
             their
             Mouths
             ,
             with
             six
             Pieces
             of
             Cannon
             ,
             and
             two
             Mortars
             .
             I
             hear
             the
             King
             was
             so
             well
             satisfi'd
             with
             the
             Marquess
             d'
             Uxelles's
             Conduct
             on
             this
             Occasion
             ,
             that
             he
             thought
             he
             ow'd
             him
             no
             less
             a
             Recompence
             for
             making
             so
             brave
             a
             Defence
             ,
             than
             the
             Government
             of
             Luxemburg
             ,
             which
             is
             one
             of
             the
             most
             important
             Places
             in
             his
             Dominions
             ,
             besides
             a
             Gratuity
             of
             1200
             Crowns
             ,
             which
             he
             has
             already
             receiv'd
             .
             Nor
             cou'd
             his
             Majesty
             have
             chosen
             a
             more
             deserving
             Object
             of
             his
             Favour
             ;
             for
             the
             Marquess
             
               d'
               Uxelles
            
             is
             not
             only
             an
             excellent
             Captain
             ,
             but
             in
             all
             other
             respects
             a
             well-accomplish'd
             Person
             .
             I
             never
             heard
             that
             he
             was
             accus'd
             of
             any
             other
             Crimes
             ,
             but
             Haughtiness
             to
             his
             Inferiour
             Officers
             ,
             and
             an
             Inclination
             to
             certain
             Pleasures
             that
             were
             brought
             into
             Fashion
             about
             20
             or
             30
             Years
             ago
             :
             but
             I
             am
             so
             far
             from
             pretending
             to
             warrant
             the
             Truth
             of
             these
             Accusations
             ,
             that
             I
             must
             confess
             I
             believe
             'em
             to
             be
             meer
             malicious
             Aspersions
             .
          
           
             We
             have
             also
             receiv'd
             Advice
             ,
             That
             Bonn
             is
             very
             much
             straiten'd
             ;
             so
             that
             if
             the
             King
             lose
             that
             Place
             ,
             he
             will
             only
             retain
             Philipsburg
             ,
             of
             all
             the
             Conquests
             his
             Son
             made
             last
             Year
             .
          
           
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             I
             must
             tell
             you
             ,
             with
             all
             the
             sincerity
             of
             a
             Friend
             ,
             that
             my
             late
             unjust
             Imprisonment
             has
             mightily
             cool'd
             my
             Affection
             to
             the
             French
             Service
             ;
             and
             besides
             ,
             as
             young
             as
             I
             am
             ,
             my
             Thoughts
             aspire
             sometimes
             to
             more
             solid
             Objects
             than
             bare
             Pleasure
             .
             I
             'm
             e'en
             resolv'd
             then
             in
             good
             earnest
             to
             encrease
             the
             number
             of
             the
             Refugees
             ;
             and
             
             I
             'm
             not
             a
             little
             confirm'd
             in
             that
             Resolution
             ,
             by
             a
             seasonable
             supply
             of
             Money
             I
             have
             just
             now
             receiv'd
             .
             I
             have
             no
             other
             Business
             at
             present
             ,
             than
             to
             put
             things
             in
             Order
             for
             my
             Departure
             ;
             intending
             to
             begin
             my
             Journey
             in
             few
             Days
             ,
             on
             the
             only
             Horse
             I
             'm
             now
             Master
             of
             ,
             for
             my
             Servant
             carry'd
             away
             the
             other
             two
             ,
             which
             was
             my
             whole
             Equipage
             .
             I
             design
             in
             the
             first
             place
             to
             visit
             Geneva
             ,
             and
             there
             to
             expect
             a
             fresh
             Recruit
             of
             Money
             ,
             before
             I
             begin
             my
             remoter
             Travels
             .
          
           
             I
             remember
             I
             have
             heard
             you
             express
             a
             desire
             to
             be
             more
             particularly
             acquainted
             with
             Strasburg
             ,
             than
             the
             Accounts
             you
             have
             hitherto
             receiv'd
             of
             it
             cou'd
             make
             you
             ;
             and
             therefore
             I
             shall
             take
             this
             Occasion
             to
             satisfie
             your
             Curiosity
             before
             I
             finish
             my
             Letter
             .
          
           
             Strasburg
             is
             a
             large
             City
             ,
             very
             well
             built
             ,
             after
             the
             German
             Fashion
             ,
             seated
             at
             the
             end
             of
             a
             vast
             and
             fertil
             Field
             ,
             extremely
             smooth
             and
             level
             ,
             so
             that
             you
             may
             discover
             the
             City
             from
             the
             Mountains
             of
             Saverne
             ,
             which
             are
             eight
             Leagues
             distant
             from
             it
             .
             'T
             is
             wash'd
             by
             the
             River
             Ill
             ,
             and
             divided
             into
             the
             Old
             and
             and
             New
             City
             by
             the
             Beusche
             ;
             and
             both
             these
             Rivers
             fall
             into
             the
             Rhine
             ,
             which
             is
             but
             a
             quarter
             of
             a
             League
             distant
             from
             the
             Town
             .
             The
             Bishop
             of
             this
             place
             is
             Suffragan
             to
             the
             Elector
             of
             Mentz
             ;
             and
             at
             present
             the
             Cardinal
             of
             Furstemberg
             is
             Bishop
             of
             Strasburg
             by
             the
             Mercy
             of
             God
             ,
             and
             of
             the
             Crown
             of
             France
             .
             The
             Count
             of
             Chamilly
             ,
             Lieutenant-General
             of
             his
             Majesty's
             Armies
             ,
             is
             Governour
             ,
             and
             Monsieur
             
               de
               Labadie
            
             formerly
             Major
             ,
             was
             made
             the
             King's
             Lieutenant
             since
             I
             came
             to
             the
             City
             .
             'T
             is
             a
             very
             ancient
             City
             ,
             but
             was
             never
             acknowledged
             for
             a
             Republick
             till
             the
             time
             of
             Luther
             ,
             whose
             Doctrine
             it
             receiv'd
             :
             And
             its
             Rights
             were
             never
             since
             disputed
             till
             the
             Year
             1682
             ,
             when
             the
             King
             made
             himself
             Master
             of
             it
             ,
             as
             a
             Dependence
             ,
             or
             rather
             the
             Capital
             City
             
             of
             Alsace
             ,
             which
             belongs
             to
             him
             by
             Virtue
             of
             the
             Treaty
             of
             Munster
             .
             You
             are
             not
             unacquainted
             with
             the
             Methods
             that
             were
             taken
             to
             justifie
             his
             Pretensions
             .
             The
             Eyes
             of
             some
             of
             the
             principal
             Burgomasters
             were
             so
             well
             enlighten'd
             with
             the
             Summ
             of
             100000
             Crowns
             ,
             that
             all
             their
             Doubts
             were
             clear'd
             in
             a
             Moment
             ;
             and
             those
             Conscientious
             Magistrates
             put
             his
             Majesty
             in
             possession
             of
             a
             Place
             to
             which
             he
             had
             asserted
             his
             Right
             by
             such
             convincing
             Arguments
             ,
             with
             all
             the
             Self-denial
             and
             Disinteressedness
             that
             cou'd
             be
             desir'd
             .
             But
             this
             Restauration
             was
             not
             made
             with
             the
             Unanimous
             Consent
             of
             the
             Citizens
             ,
             the
             greatest
             part
             of
             whom
             bewail'd
             ,
             and
             continue
             still
             to
             bewail
             the
             Loss
             of
             their
             Liberty
             ,
             which
             ,
             next
             the
             Sovereign
             Good
             ,
             ought
             to
             be
             the
             dearest
             Blessing
             to
             all
             generous
             Minds
             .
             Nor
             are
             their
             Complaints
             ill-grounded
             ;
             for
             they
             have
             been
             extremely
             harras'd
             of
             late
             ,
             and
             even
             their
             Religion
             cou'd
             not
             escape
             the
             Fury
             of
             their
             new
             Masters
             .
             I
             know
             not
             what
             Excuse
             can
             be
             pretended
             for
             so
             manifest
             a
             Violation
             of
             the
             Rights
             of
             a
             free
             City
             ,
             that
             submitted
             on
             Condition
             that
             its
             Liberty
             ,
             and
             all
             its
             other
             Privileges
             ,
             shou'd
             be
             preserv'd
             intire
             .
             Besides
             ,
             if
             they
             be
             only
             consider'd
             as
             Natives
             of
             Alsace
             ,
             what
             plausible
             Reason
             can
             be
             alledg'd
             why
             they
             shou'd
             be
             treated
             with
             greater
             Severity
             than
             the
             rest
             of
             their
             Neighbours
             ?
             Has
             not
             the
             King
             an
             equal
             Right
             to
             the
             whole
             Province
             ?
             and
             why
             shou'd
             Strasburg
             be
             singl'd
             out
             for
             the
             Object
             of
             his
             Indignation
             ,
             since
             there
             are
             several
             less
             considerable
             Places
             in
             Alsace
             ,
             whose
             Privileges
             are
             suffer'd
             to
             remain
             untouch'd
             ?
             Thus
             ,
             for
             Example
             ,
             the
             Inhabitants
             of
             St.
             
               Mary
               aux
               Mines
            
             ,
             in
             the
             German
             part
             of
             Lorrain
             ,
             continue
             still
             in
             the
             enjoyment
             of
             their
             ancient
             Rights
             ;
             the
             River
             separates
             the
             Precinct
             of
             the
             Protestants
             from
             that
             of
             the
             Catholicks
             :
             The
             same
             Privileges
             are
             common
             both
             
             to
             the
             Priests
             and
             Ministers
             ,
             and
             they
             live
             in
             a
             peaceful
             Union
             without
             incroaching
             upon
             one
             another
             .
             I
             was
             inform'd
             by
             the
             Guardian
             of
             the
             Co●deliers
             in
             that
             place
             ,
             that
             when
             the
             Queen
             came
             thither
             ,
             in
             her
             Journey
             to
             receive
             the
             Dauphiness
             ,
             she
             resolv'd
             to
             build
             a
             Chapel
             ,
             in
             performance
             of
             a
             Vow
             she
             had
             made
             ,
             and
             appointed
             the
             Place
             where
             it
             shou'd
             be
             erected
             in
             the
             Territory
             of
             the
             Protestants
             ,
             who
             immediately
             came
             to
             beg
             her
             Majesty
             not
             to
             violate
             their
             Privileges
             ,
             which
             they
             shew'd
             her
             ;
             and
             she
             was
             so
             well
             satisfy'd
             with
             the
             Justice
             of
             their
             Desire
             ,
             that
             she
             was
             easily
             prevail'd
             with
             to
             countermand
             her
             former
             Orders
             .
             And
             I
             can
             assure
             you
             ,
             that
             the
             Privileges
             of
             that
             paltry
             Village
             are
             still
             preserv'd
             with
             so
             little
             innovation
             ,
             that
             I
             have
             seen
             with
             my
             own
             Eyes
             the
             Catholicks
             and
             Protestants
             perform
             Divine
             Service
             by
             Turns
             in
             the
             Parochial
             Church
             .
             But
             it
             seems
             the
             People
             of
             Strasburg
             were
             not
             thought
             worthy
             of
             so
             favourable
             a
             Treatment
             .
             The
             Protestants
             ,
             who
             were
             sole
             Masters
             of
             the
             Cathedral
             ,
             were
             compell'd
             to
             give
             place
             to
             the
             Catholicks
             ,
             who
             are
             at
             present
             possess'd
             both
             of
             that
             and
             most
             other
             Churches
             in
             the
             City
             ,
             tho'
             about
             twelve
             Years
             ago
             they
             cou'd
             only
             pretend
             a
             Right
             to
             a
             Chapel
             that
             belongs
             to
             the
             Order
             of
             Malta
             .
             This
             is
             certainly
             one
             of
             the
             fairest
             Churches
             in
             Europe
             ;
             and
             I
             may
             venture
             to
             say
             ,
             that
             its
             Steeple
             cannot
             be
             parrallel'd
             in
             the
             whole
             World
             :
             This
             magnificent
             Tower
             is
             contriv'd
             with
             wonderful
             Art
             ,
             and
             the
             Stones
             are
             all
             exactly
             cut
             into
             several
             Figures
             ,
             which
             charm
             the
             Eye
             of
             the
             Spectator
             :
             Its
             heights
             amounts
             to
             560
             Foot
             ,
             and
             its
             breadth
             to
             52
             ;
             the
             Doors
             are
             of
             Brass
             ,
             and
             proportionable
             to
             the
             largeness
             of
             the
             Building
             .
             Since
             the
             Catholicks
             became
             Masters
             of
             it
             ,
             they
             have
             built
             a
             great
             Altar
             ,
             according
             to
             the
             Modern
             way
             ,
             in
             the
             Floor
             of
             the
             Nave
             ,
             which
             
             is
             of
             a
             Triangular
             Figure
             ,
             with
             large
             Marble
             Columns
             at
             the
             Angles
             ,
             supporting
             a
             Dome
             adorn'd
             with
             many
             Basso-relievo's
             ,
             and
             fine
             Paintings
             .
             The
             Tabernacle
             is
             in
             the
             middle
             of
             the
             Altar
             ,
             enrich'd
             with
             excellent
             Sculptures
             ;
             and
             all
             the
             other
             Ornaments
             are
             Beautiful
             beyond
             the
             possibility
             of
             Improvement
             .
             But
             all
             the
             Charms
             of
             so
             rare
             a
             Piece
             of
             Workmanship
             cannot
             long
             detain
             the
             Spectator
             from
             satisfying
             his
             Curiosity
             with
             a
             View
             of
             that
             admirable
             Clock
             built
             by
             the
             Chapter
             ,
             which
             marks
             the
             Minutes
             ,
             Hours
             ,
             Days
             of
             the
             Month
             and
             Week
             ,
             the
             Age
             of
             the
             Moon
             ,
             Signs
             of
             the
             Zodiack
             ,
             and
             the
             Centuries
             or
             Ages
             of
             the
             World
             ,
             by
             a
             Wheel
             that
             performs
             only
             one
             Round
             in
             the
             space
             of
             a
             hundred
             Years
             .
             If
             you
             wou'd
             have
             the
             pleasure
             to
             behold
             all
             the
             Beauties
             of
             the
             Clock
             ,
             you
             must
             wait
             till
             Noon
             ,
             when
             the
             twelve
             Apostles
             appear
             ,
             and
             each
             knocks
             with
             a
             Hammer
             on
             the
             Bell.
             The
             striking
             of
             this
             ,
             as
             well
             as
             of
             all
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             Hours
             ,
             is
             preceded
             by
             the
             crowing
             of
             a
             Cock
             ,
             who
             claps
             '
             his
             Wings
             ,
             stretches
             out
             his
             Neck
             ,
             and
             Crows
             so
             naturally
             ,
             that
             if
             your
             Eyes
             did
             not
             convince
             you
             that
             he
             is
             made
             of
             Copper
             ,
             you
             wou'd
             certainly
             conclude
             him
             to
             be
             really
             that
             which
             he
             represents
             .
             Immediately
             after
             the
             History
             of
             the
             Annunciation
             appears
             ,
             the
             Door
             of
             the
             Virgin
             's
             Chamber
             opens
             ,
             and
             the
             Angel
             Gabriel
             comes
             to
             intimate
             her
             Conception
             ;
             the
             Virgin
             ,
             who
             is
             on
             her
             Knees
             at
             Prayer
             ,
             turns
             to
             hear
             his
             Message
             ;
             and
             at
             the
             same
             time
             the
             
               Holy
               Ghost
            
             descends
             upon
             her
             Head
             in
             form
             of
             a
             Dove
             :
             And
             all
             these
             Motions
             are
             perform'd
             with
             an
             admirable
             Exactness
             .
          
           
             This
             beautiful
             Church
             is
             not
             the
             only
             Ornament
             of
             Strasburg
             :
             The
             rest
             of
             its
             Buildings
             deserve
             an
             attentive
             Consideration
             ,
             especially
             the
             Fortifications
             ,
             on
             which
             the
             King
             has
             bestow'd
             
             such
             prodigious
             Summs
             :
             The
             Citadel
             has
             its
             peculiar
             Beauties
             ,
             where
             the
             King
             entertains
             a
             Company
             of
             Cadets
             .
             But
             the
             City
             is
             so
             extremely
             large
             ,
             and
             lies
             so
             open
             ,
             that
             all
             the
             Works
             with
             which
             it
             is
             surrounded
             ,
             cou'd
             hardly
             resist
             the
             Attacks
             of
             a
             powerful
             Enemy
             ,
             if
             it
             were
             not
             coverd
             on
             all
             sides
             by
             the
             impregnable
             Forts
             erected
             by
             his
             Majesty's
             Order
             ,
             on
             the
             Bridge
             over
             the
             Rhine
             ;
             for
             all
             the
             Advantage
             an
             Army
             cou'd
             propose
             by
             taking
             the
             City
             while
             those
             Forts
             remain
             in
             the
             Hands
             of
             the
             French
             ,
             wou'd
             amount
             to
             no
             more
             than
             the
             Possession
             of
             a
             large
             and
             strong
             Prison
             .
          
           
             '
             Twou'd
             be
             needless
             to
             describe
             the
             Manners
             and
             Customs
             of
             the
             Inhabitants
             ,
             since
             they
             are
             so
             observant
             of
             all
             the
             Fashions
             of
             their
             New
             Masters
             ,
             that
             a
             meer
             Stranger
             wou'd
             imagine
             'em
             to
             be
             natural
             Frenchmen
             .
          
           
             I
             'm
             persuaded
             ,
             Sir
             ,
             you
             'll
             be
             as
             weary
             in
             Reading
             as
             I
             am
             in
             Writing
             this
             Letter
             ;
             however
             ,
             I
             'm
             resolv'd
             that
             neither
             of
             these
             Considerations
             shall
             discourage
             me
             from
             pursuing
             my
             Design
             of
             presenting
             you
             from
             Time
             to
             Time
             ,
             with
             Relations
             of
             my
             Travels
             ,
             which
             I
             intend
             to
             begin
             to
             〈◊〉
             .
          
           
             I
             am
             ,
             
               SIR
               ,
            
             
               Your
               &c.
               
            
             
               Strasburg
               ,
               
                 Sept.
                 1689.
                 
              
            
          
        
         
           
           
             LETTER
             III.
             
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
          
           
             I
             Left
             Strasburg
             about
             the
             end
             of
             the
             last
             Month
             ,
             and
             passing
             by
             
               Saverne
               ,
               Phalsburg
            
             ,
             and
             Marsal
             ,
             (
             which
             is
             much
             different
             from
             what
             it
             was
             heretofore
             )
             arriv'd
             at
             Metz
             in
             Lorrain
             ,
             from
             whence
             the
             Cardinal
             of
             Furstemburg
             was
             gone
             some
             Days
             before
             .
             He
             retir'd
             to
             this
             place
             in
             the
             beginning
             of
             the
             Year
             ,
             not
             thinking
             himself
             secure
             at
             Bonn
             :
             And
             he
             was
             even
             so
             sensible
             of
             the
             Danger
             with
             which
             that
             place
             was
             threaten'd
             ,
             that
             he
             brought
             along
             with
             him
             the
             very
             Bolts
             of
             the
             Doors
             of
             the
             Episcopal
             Palace
             .
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             he
             put
             on
             a
             seeming
             Confidence
             ,
             and
             talk'd
             of
             nothing
             but
             Conquests
             and
             Electorates
             ,
             promising
             great
             things
             to
             all
             his
             Friends
             ;
             and
             even
             levy'd
             two
             Companies
             of
             Soldiers
             for
             his
             Guard
             ,
             whom
             he
             was
             afterwards
             forc'd
             to
             disband
             for
             want
             of
             Money
             to
             pay
             '
             em
             .
             I
             staid
             two
             Days
             at
             Metz
             ,
             to
             consider
             all
             its
             Rarities
             .
             The
             City
             is
             pretty
             large
             ,
             and
             tolerably
             well
             Fortify'd
             .
             There
             is
             a
             Company
             of
             Cadets
             in
             the
             Citadel
             ,
             which
             has
             four
             Bastions
             ,
             with
             good
             Ditches
             full
             of
             Water
             .
             The
             Cathedral
             ,
             which
             is
             dedicated
             to
             S.
             Stephen
             ,
             is
             built
             on
             the
             declivity
             of
             a
             Hillock
             ;
             so
             that
             whereas
             we
             usually
             ascend
             to
             other
             Churches
             ,
             we
             must
             go
             down
             seven
             or
             eight
             Steps
             to
             this
             .
             It
             is
             a
             large
             Building
             ,
             tho'
             there
             is
             nothing
             remarkable
             in
             it
             but
             the
             Bap●ismal
             Font
             ,
             consisting
             of
             one
             piece
             of
             Porphyrie
             ,
             about
             ten
             Foot
             long
             ,
             which
             is
             a
             Rarity
             in
             this
             Country
             .
             The
             Bishop
             assumes
             the
             Title
             of
             a
             
               Prince
               of
               the
               Holy
               Empire
            
             ;
             and
             is
             a
             Suffragan
             of
             the
             Elector
             of
             Triers
             .
             This
             
             City
             was
             formerly
             the
             Metropolis
             of
             the
             Kingdom
             of
             Austrasia
             ,
             which
             Clovis
             I.
             gave
             to
             his
             Natural
             Son
             Thierry
             ,
             creating
             him
             the
             first
             King
             of
             it
             :
             Afterwards
             it
             purchas'd
             its
             Liberty
             for
             the
             Summ
             of
             100000
             Crowns
             ,
             of
             Godfrey
             of
             Bouillon
             ,
             at
             his
             departure
             for
             the
             
               Holy
               Land
            
             ,
             and
             maintain'd
             the
             Character
             of
             a
             Republick
             till
             the
             Year
             1552
             ,
             in
             which
             it
             was
             treacherously
             seiz'd
             by
             the
             Constable
             
               de
               Montmorenci
            
             ,
             in
             the
             Name
             of
             Henry
             II.
             For
             pretending
             to
             go
             to
             the
             assistance
             of
             the
             Protestants
             in
             Germany
             ,
             he
             ask'd
             permission
             to
             enter
             the
             City
             ,
             under
             pretext
             that
             he
             had
             fall'n
             sick
             by
             the
             Way
             ;
             and
             the
             next
             Morning
             sent
             to
             acquaint
             the
             Mayor
             and
             Echevins
             of
             the
             Town
             ,
             that
             he
             was
             desirous
             to
             communicate
             an
             Affair
             of
             great
             importance
             to
             'em
             before
             his
             Death
             .
             When
             he
             saw
             'em
             all
             met
             together
             in
             his
             Chamber
             ,
             he
             started
             up
             ,
             and
             thrust
             his
             Poniard
             into
             the
             Mayor's
             Breast
             ,
             for
             a
             Signal
             to
             his
             Followers
             to
             stab
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             Magistrates
             :
             And
             immediately
             after
             the
             Execution
             of
             that
             cruel
             Treason
             ,
             the
             French
             run
             about
             the
             Streets
             ,
             crying
             ,
             
               Vive
               le
               Roy
            
             ,
             and
             made
             themselves
             Masters
             of
             the
             Gates
             ,
             and
             afterwards
             of
             the
             whole
             City
             .
             About
             the
             end
             of
             the
             same
             Year
             ,
             it
             was
             in
             vain
             besieged
             by
             Charles
             V.
             who
             was
             forc'd
             to
             make
             a
             shameful
             Retreat
             by
             the
             Duke
             of
             Guise
             ,
             who
             defended
             the
             place
             .
             Since
             that
             unsuccessful
             Attempt
             ,
             Metz
             remain'd
             still
             under
             the
             Dominion
             or
             rather
             Protection
             of
             our
             Kings
             :
             For
             the
             Inhabitants
             carry'd
             all
             their
             Appeals
             before
             the
             Imperial
             Chamber
             at
             Spire
             ,
             till
             Lewis
             XIII
             .
             establish'd
             a
             Parliament
             in
             this
             place
             ,
             extending
             its
             Jurisdiction
             over
             
               Toul
               ,
               Verdun
            
             ,
             and
             the
             Country
             of
             Messin
             .
             The
             Emperour
             complain'd
             of
             this
             Innovation
             ;
             nor
             was
             the
             Contest
             that
             happen'd
             on
             this
             Occasion
             entirely
             decided
             ,
             till
             the
             Peace
             that
             was
             concluded
             in
             1648.
             
             Besides
             the
             Parliament
             ,
             the
             
             King
             erected
             a
             new
             Court
             of
             Judicature
             here
             some
             Years
             ago
             ,
             which
             has
             had
             the
             Impudence
             (
             if
             I
             may
             use
             that
             Expression
             without
             exposing
             my self
             to
             the
             same
             Censure
             )
             to
             cite
             before
             it
             Kings
             and
             Sovereign
             Princes
             ,
             to
             yield
             Homage
             and
             Fealty
             for
             some
             Territories
             over
             which
             they
             pretend
             to
             have
             a
             Right
             of
             Superiority
             ,
             as
             the
             Counties
             of
             Chini
             and
             Alost
             ,
             the
             Dutchy
             of
             Deux-Ponts
             ,
             and
             several
             others
             .
          
           
             This
             is
             the
             only
             City
             in
             France
             where
             Jews
             are
             permitted
             to
             settle
             ;
             and
             there
             are
             even
             some
             Towns
             in
             Alsace
             where
             they
             dare
             not
             lodge
             one
             Night
             .
             At
             Strasburg
             they
             are
             forc'd
             to
             pay
             thirty
             Sous
             at
             the
             Gate
             ,
             before
             they
             are
             suffer'd
             to
             enter
             the
             City
             ;
             and
             I
             have
             been
             often
             surpriz'd
             at
             the
             extraordinary
             dexterity
             of
             the
             Toll-gatherers
             in
             discovering
             a
             Man
             of
             that
             Nation
             .
          
           
             From
             Metz
             I
             came
             to
             Nanci
             ,
             the
             chief
             City
             of
             Lorrain
             ,
             and
             Residence
             of
             the
             Dukes
             of
             that
             Name
             .
             'T
             is
             hardly
             possible
             that
             a
             Town
             which
             has
             chang'd
             its
             Masters
             so
             often
             ,
             shou'd
             be
             remarkable
             for
             its
             Riches
             :
             However
             ,
             't
             is
             very
             well
             fortify'd
             ;
             and
             the
             same
             Prince
             by
             whose
             Orders
             't
             was
             almost
             entirely
             ruin'd
             in
             1661
             ,
             was
             afterwards
             pleas'd
             to
             repair
             it
             .
             The
             River
             Meurte
             passes
             by
             the
             Walls
             ,
             and
             fills
             the
             Ditches
             ,
             which
             are
             of
             a
             considerable
             Depth
             .
             The
             City
             is
             divided
             into
             the
             High
             and
             Low
             Town
             ;
             and
             the
             Ducal
             Palace
             ,
             which
             is
             seated
             in
             the
             former
             ,
             is
             a
             very
             large
             Structure
             ,
             of
             an
             admirable
             Architecture
             ,
             and
             adorn'd
             with
             many
             fine
             Pictures
             .
             Among
             its
             other
             Rarities
             ,
             there
             is
             a
             Humane
             Figure
             of
             Wood
             ,
             consisting
             of
             several
             Pieces
             ,
             fitted
             together
             with
             so
             much
             Exactness
             and
             Art
             ,
             that
             it
             may
             be
             made
             to
             imitate
             all
             the
             Motions
             and
             Gestures
             of
             a
             living
             Man.
             S.
             
             George's
             Church
             is
             particularly
             remarkable
             for
             the
             Magnificent
             Tombs
             of
             the
             Dukes
             that
             lie
             inter●d
             there
             .
             
             About
             seven
             or
             eight
             Years
             ago
             this
             City
             was
             depriv'd
             of
             two
             of
             its
             noblest
             Ornaments
             ;
             the
             famous
             Culverin
             ,
             that
             shot
             a
             Bullet
             to
             S.
             Nicholas
             ,
             a
             Village
             two
             large
             Leagues
             from
             Nanci
             ;
             and
             the
             Brazen
             Horse
             ,
             that
             carri'd
             the
             Statue
             of
             one
             of
             the
             Dukes
             of
             Lorrain
             .
             These
             are
             certainly
             the
             finest
             cast
             Pieces
             in
             France
             ,
             and
             were
             always
             thought
             too
             heavy
             for
             Carriage
             ,
             till
             a
             certain
             Engineer
             undertook
             to
             remove
             'em
             ,
             and
             succeeded
             in
             the
             Attempt
             .
             The
             latter
             was
             design'd
             to
             support
             the
             King's
             Statue
             in
             the
             Place
             of
             Conquests
             at
             Paris
             ,
             but
             was
             found
             to
             be
             of
             too
             small
             a
             size
             ;
             and
             the
             other
             was
             carry'd
             to
             Dunkirk
             .
             The
             Inhabitants
             of
             this
             City
             ,
             and
             ,
             in
             general
             ,
             all
             the
             Third
             State
             (
             or
             Commons
             )
             of
             Lorrain
             ,
             are
             still
             extremely
             devoted
             to
             the
             Interest
             of
             their
             true
             and
             natural
             Prince
             ;
             and
             scruple
             not
             to
             express
             their
             Affection
             to
             him
             on
             all
             Occasions
             ,
             with
             a
             certain
             innocent
             Frankness
             ,
             which
             together
             with
             their
             Clownish
             way
             of
             Speaking
             ,
             is
             esteem'd
             by
             the
             French
             rather
             worthy
             of
             Laughter
             than
             Anger
             .
             But
             the
             Nobility
             are
             so
             dazzl'd
             with
             the
             glaring
             Prospect
             of
             Court-Preferment
             ,
             that
             they
             seem
             to
             have
             quite
             forgot
             the
             loss
             of
             their
             ancient
             Privileges
             ,
             which
             were
             so
             great
             under
             the
             Government
             of
             their
             Dukes
             ,
             that
             they
             were
             in
             a
             manner
             Sovereign
             Princes
             ;
             whereas
             at
             present
             they
             are
             reduc'd
             to
             an
             equal
             Level
             with
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             Gentlemen
             of
             the
             Kingdom
             .
          
           
             I
             stay'd
             not
             at
             Nanci
             ,
             but
             continuing
             my
             Journey
             towards
             Dijon
             ,
             arriv'd
             at
             Langres
             in
             Champagne
             .
             This
             City
             is
             seated
             on
             a
             Mountain
             almost
             inaccessible
             on
             all
             sides
             :
             but
             the
             Inhabitants
             have
             no
             reason
             to
             be
             proud
             of
             the
             strength
             of
             its
             Situation
             ,
             which
             makes
             it
             a
             kind
             of
             Prison
             ;
             for
             the
             Descent
             from
             the
             Town
             is
             extremely
             uneasie
             ,
             and
             a
             Man
             may
             without
             Vanity
             boast
             of
             his
             Lungs
             ,
             if
             he
             can
             climb
             from
             the
             bottom
             of
             the
             Hill
             to
             the
             Gate
             ,
             without
             losing
             his
             
             Breath
             .
             The
             People
             of
             the
             Country
             call
             this
             the
             Maiden-City
             ,
             both
             because
             it
             has
             not
             been
             taken
             for
             several
             Ages
             ,
             and
             by
             reason
             of
             its
             Fidelity
             to
             the
             Crown
             :
             The
             Bishop
             is
             both
             a
             Spiritual
             and
             Temporal
             Lord
             ,
             and
             has
             the
             Title
             of
             Duke
             and
             Peer
             of
             France
             .
          
           
             The
             next
             Day
             I
             pass'd
             thro'
             one
             of
             the
             most
             charming
             and
             fertil
             Plains
             in
             France
             ,
             and
             arriv'd
             at
             Dijon
             .
             The
             City
             begins
             to
             appear
             at
             a
             considerable
             distance
             ,
             and
             presents
             a
             Traveller
             with
             the
             pleasant
             Prospect
             of
             100
             Spires
             that
             overtop
             the
             Houses
             ;
             for
             which
             reason
             Dijon
             is
             usually
             call'd
             the
             
               Town
               of
               Steeples
            
             .
             'T
             is
             seated
             on
             the
             Banks
             of
             the
             O●che
             and
             Suson
             ,
             and
             was
             founded
             by
             the
             Emperour
             Aurelian
             ,
             tho'
             some
             affirm
             that
             't
             is
             much
             more
             ancient
             ,
             and
             that
             he
             only
             repair'd
             it
             .
             But
             not
             to
             invade
             the
             Province
             of
             Antiquaries
             ,
             I
             shall
             content
             my self
             with
             assuring
             you
             that
             't
             is
             a
             very
             fine
             City
             :
             The
             Streets
             are
             large
             and
             fair
             ,
             the
             Courts
             spacious
             ,
             the
             Buildings
             very
             beautiful
             ,
             and
             the
             Churches
             extremely
             magnificent
             .
             Among
             the
             rest
             I
             cannot
             forbear
             taking
             notice
             of
             the
             famous
             Abbey
             of
             S.
             Benign
             ,
             which
             was
             built
             by
             Gregory
             ,
             Bishop
             of
             Langres
             ,
             after
             he
             had
             miraculously
             found
             the
             Body
             of
             that
             Saint
             .
             'T
             is
             one
             of
             the
             largest
             ,
             and
             highest
             Structures
             that
             are
             anywhere
             to
             be
             seen
             ,
             adorn'd
             with
             three
             Stone-Spires
             ,
             the
             heighth
             of
             which
             is
             suitable
             to
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             Building
             .
             The
             Abbey-Church
             of
             S.
             Stephen
             is
             on
             the
             other
             Side
             of
             the
             City
             ,
             and
             is
             no
             less
             remarkable
             for
             its
             Beauty
             .
             The
             Front
             of
             
               Our
               Lady's
            
             Church
             surpasses
             all
             the
             rest
             ,
             consisting
             of
             a
             large
             Clock-Tower
             all
             over
             wrought
             ,
             rising
             between
             two
             others
             smaller
             ,
             but
             no
             less
             curiously
             adorn'd
             ,
             which
             charm
             the
             Eyes
             of
             the
             Beholder
             .
             S.
             John's
             Church
             ,
             the
             Holy
             Chapel
             ,
             the
             Convents
             of
             the
             Jesuits
             ,
             and
             Cordeliers
             ,
             and
             generally
             all
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             Churches
             and
             Convents
             deserve
             particular
             Observation
             ,
             especially
             that
             of
             the
             Carthusians
             ,
             without
             the
             City
             ,
             
             towards
             the
             
               Red
               Gate
            
             ,
             which
             is
             one
             of
             the
             richest
             Monasteries
             in
             the
             Kingdom
             .
             There
             are
             a
             hundred
             Monks
             in
             it
             ,
             who
             observe
             with
             so
             religious
             a
             Strictness
             ,
             their
             Vows
             of
             Solitude
             and
             Silence
             ,
             that
             a
             Stranger
             visiting
             the
             Place
             wou'd
             be
             tempted
             to
             think
             it
             were
             uninhabited
             .
             And
             I
             may
             venture
             to
             add
             ,
             that
             perhaps
             they
             may
             make
             a
             better
             use
             of
             their
             Revenues
             than
             any
             other
             Convent
             in
             the
             Kingdom
             :
             for
             besides
             a
             considerable
             Summ
             which
             they
             give
             to
             the
             Hospital
             of
             the
             
               Holy
               Ghost
            
             ,
             they
             distribute
             every
             Week
             five
             or
             six
             hundred
             Loaves
             to
             the
             Poor
             .
             They
             have
             a
             very
             fine
             Cloyster
             ,
             and
             a
             finer
             Church
             ,
             where
             the
             Dukes
             of
             Burgundy
             ,
             and
             a
             King
             of
             Poland
             lie
             interr'd
             in
             magnificent
             Tombs
             .
          
           
             On
             a
             Hillock
             ,
             on
             the
             other
             Side
             of
             the
             City
             ,
             there
             is
             a
             Convent
             of
             one
             of
             the
             Orders
             of
             Mendicant
             Friers
             ,
             said
             to
             be
             the
             House
             of
             S.
             Bernard's
             Father
             ,
             who
             was
             Lord
             of
             the
             Place
             that
             still
             retains
             the
             Name
             of
             Bourg-fontaines
             .
             The
             Room
             where
             he
             was
             born
             ,
             which
             is
             a
             very
             little
             and
             low
             Hall
             ,
             of
             a
             square
             Figure
             ,
             is
             turn'd
             to
             a
             Chapel
             ,
             with
             this
             Inscription
             over
             the
             Door
             :
             
               Come
               ,
               my
               Children
               ,
               and
               I
               will
               bring
               you
               into
               the
               House
               of
               my
               Father
               ,
               and
               into
               the
               Chamber
               where
               my
               Mother
               brought
               me
               forth
               .
            
          
           
             Dijon
             is
             the
             Capital
             City
             of
             the
             Dutchy
             of
             Burgundy
             :
             't
             is
             the
             Seat
             of
             a
             Parliament
             ,
             Generality
             or
             general
             Receipt
             of
             the
             Finances
             ,
             Chamber
             of
             Accounts
             ,
             and
             a
             Court
             that
             takes
             Cognizance
             of
             Affairs
             relating
             to
             the
             Coining
             and
             Value
             of
             Money
             ;
             and
             besides
             the
             States
             of
             the
             Province
             meet
             here
             once
             in
             three
             Years
             :
             so
             that
             it
             wants
             only
             the
             Dignity
             of
             an
             
               Episcopal
               See
            
             ,
             being
             under
             the
             Jurisdiction
             of
             the
             Bishop
             of
             Langres
             .
             It
             had
             formerly
             very
             considerable
             Privileges
             ;
             and
             our
             Kings
             at
             their
             Accession
             to
             the
             Crown
             ,
             and
             as
             often
             as
             they
             enter'd
             into
             the
             City
             ,
             were
             oblig'd
             to
             swear
             to
             preserve
             '
             em
             .
             But
             that
             Custom
             was
             abolish'd
             by
             the
             present
             King
             ,
             when
             he
             pass'd
             this
             way
             to
             receive
             the
             Queen
             at
             her
             
             Arrival
             from
             Spain
             .
             For
             when
             the
             Mayor
             accompany'd
             with
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             Magistrates
             ,
             presented
             the
             Keys
             of
             the
             City
             ,
             together
             with
             a
             Copy
             of
             their
             Privileges
             to
             his
             Majesty
             ,
             humbly
             beseeching
             him
             that
             he
             wou'd
             swear
             to
             preserve
             'em
             ,
             after
             the
             Example
             of
             all
             his
             Predecessors
             ,
             and
             even
             of
             the
             late
             King
             of
             Glorious
             Memory
             ;
             Cardinal
             Mazarin
             reply'd
             ,
             
               Are
               you
               so
               insolent
               as
               to
               impose
               an
               Oath
               upon
               your
               King
               ?
            
             The
             Magistrates
             surpriz'd
             at
             so
             severe
             a
             Reprimand
             ,
             answer'd
             with
             a
             great
             deal
             of
             Respect
             ,
             that
             they
             pretended
             not
             to
             impose
             any
             thing
             ,
             but
             only
             begg'd
             and
             hop'd
             to
             obtain
             that
             Favour
             from
             his
             Majesty's
             Justice
             and
             Goodness
             .
             
               I
               understand
               your
               Meaning
            
             ,
             reply'd
             the
             Cardinal
             ,
             
               you
               wou'd
               be
               a
               Free
               City
               and
               Commonwealth
               .
               And
               I
               assure
               you
               ,
               in
               his
               Majesty's
               Name
               ,
               that
               ,
               without
               taking
               an
               Oath
               ,
               he
               considers
               you
               as
               such
               ,
               but
               prepare
               your selves
               to
               become
               his
               Conquest
               .
            
             This
             Threatning
             was
             quickly
             executed
             ,
             for
             the
             next
             Day
             8000
             Men
             enter'd
             the
             City
             ,
             and
             the
             Cardinal
             made
             a
             general
             Alteration
             in
             the
             Magistracy
             .
             The
             Mayoralty
             of
             Dijon
             was
             the
             best
             Place
             of
             that
             Nature
             in
             France
             ;
             for
             besides
             the
             Title
             of
             a
             Viscount
             ,
             the
             Government
             of
             the
             City
             ,
             and
             of
             all
             the
             Third
             Estate
             or
             Commonalty
             of
             Burgundy
             was
             annex'd
             to
             it
             .
             The
             Inhabitants
             of
             this
             City
             are
             generally
             of
             a
             very
             free
             and
             sociable
             Temper
             ,
             and
             the
             Women
             enjoy
             all
             the
             Advantages
             of
             an
             honest
             Liberty
             .
             So
             charming
             a
             Society
             puts
             a
             kind
             of
             easie
             Constraint
             upon
             Strangers
             ,
             and
             makes
             'em
             break
             all
             their
             Resolutions
             of
             hastening
             their
             Departure
             :
             for
             't
             is
             impossible
             to
             stay
             here
             four
             and
             twenty
             Hours
             without
             making
             some
             agreeable
             Acquaintance
             ,
             which
             may
             afterwards
             prove
             the
             Source
             of
             a
             great
             deal
             of
             Pleasure
             .
             The
             narrow
             Compass
             of
             a
             Letter
             will
             not
             allow
             me
             to
             insert
             the
             Relation
             of
             a
             very
             pleasant
             Adventure
             that
             I
             met
             with
             in
             this
             place
             ;
             but
             I
             'm
             resolv'd
             to
             make
             
             you
             my
             Confident
             at
             our
             first
             Meeting
             .
             To
             morrow
             I
             intend
             to
             depart
             for
             Lyons
             ,
             where
             I
             shall
             have
             time
             to
             give
             you
             an
             Account
             of
             my
             Journey
             .
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             ,
          
           
             I
             am
             ,
             
               SIR
               ,
            
             
               Your
               &c.
               
            
             
               Dijon
               ,
               
                 Octob.
                 1689.
                 
              
            
          
        
         
           
             LETTER
             IV.
             
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
          
           
             CHaalons
             is
             a
             considerable
             City
             ,
             honour'd
             with
             the
             Title
             of
             a
             County
             ,
             and
             is
             the
             same
             with
             the
             ancient
             Cabilonum
             mention'd
             in
             
               Caesar's
               Commentaries
            
             .
             It
             appears
             by
             the
             Ruines
             of
             an
             old
             Amphitheatre
             ,
             that
             this
             place
             was
             formerly
             possess'd
             by
             the
             Romans
             .
             I
             lodg'd
             at
             the
             Pelican
             ,
             where
             I
             had
             the
             good
             Fortune
             to
             meet
             with
             three
             Merchants
             of
             Lyons
             ,
             who
             were
             returning
             thither
             ,
             and
             promis'd
             to
             shew
             me
             all
             the
             Rarities
             of
             that
             City
             .
             We
             had
             scarce
             travell'd
             a
             Mile
             ,
             when
             we
             met
             with
             a
             Priest
             walking
             a-foot
             ,
             in
             a
             pretty
             genteel
             Garb
             :
             He
             was
             a
             Man
             of
             a
             very
             serious
             Mien
             ,
             but
             talk'd
             wittily
             .
             He
             accepted
             the
             Civility
             of
             one
             of
             our
             Company
             ,
             who
             offer'd
             him
             the
             Conveniency
             of
             riding
             behind
             him
             half
             a
             League
             of
             bad
             way
             ,
             thro'
             which
             we
             were
             oblig'd
             to
             pass
             .
             This
             Accident
             gave
             us
             occasion
             to
             discourse
             of
             the
             Uneasiness
             of
             travelling
             on
             Foot
             ,
             and
             of
             the
             Happiness
             of
             those
             who
             by
             Virtue
             of
             certain
             Charms
             ,
             can
             ride
             30
             or
             40
             Leagues
             a
             day
             .
             I
             was
             never
             fond
             of
             believing
             what
             I
             cannot
             comprehend
             ,
             
             and
             I
             must
             confess
             my
             Reason
             was
             too
             hard
             for
             my
             Faith
             on
             this
             Occasion
             .
             However
             I
             know
             not
             whether
             I
             shou'd
             have
             been
             able
             to
             withstand
             the
             Opposition
             of
             some
             of
             my
             Fellow-Travellers
             ,
             if
             he
             who
             had
             the
             Priest
             behind
             him
             had
             not
             vigorously
             undertaken
             my
             Defence
             .
             The
             Dispute
             continu'd
             for
             some
             time
             pretty
             warm
             on
             both
             sides
             ,
             till
             our
             mutual
             Weariness
             rather
             than
             Want
             of
             Arguments
             ,
             made
             us
             at
             last
             consent
             to
             chuse
             the
             Priest
             ,
             who
             had
             not
             yet
             sided
             with
             either
             Party
             ,
             to
             be
             Judge
             of
             our
             Difference
             .
             He
             very
             gravely
             told
             us
             ,
             that
             the
             controverted
             Story
             was
             a
             certain
             Truth
             ,
             and
             that
             he
             knew
             some
             Persons
             who
             were
             Masters
             of
             that
             Secret
             ;
             I
             cou'd
             not
             forbear
             laughing
             at
             the
             serious
             Tone
             with
             which
             he
             pronounc'd
             Sentence
             against
             me
             ;
             and
             he
             was
             so
             vex'd
             at
             my
             Incredulity
             ,
             that
             he
             began
             to
             maintain
             his
             Assertion
             with
             a
             great
             deal
             of
             heat
             .
             Immediately
             his
             Fellow-Horseman
             took
             up
             the
             Cudgels
             ,
             and
             they
             engag'd
             in
             a
             Debate
             which
             lasted
             about
             a
             Quarter
             of
             an
             Hour
             ;
             till
             at
             last
             the
             Priest
             perceiving
             that
             't
             was
             in
             vain
             to
             contend
             longer
             with
             so
             obstinate
             an
             Adversary
             ,
             told
             us
             plainly
             that
             he
             himself
             cou'd
             do
             the
             Feat
             ,
             tho'
             he
             never
             us'd
             to
             put
             it
             in
             Practice
             ;
             and
             that
             if
             his
             Opponent
             had
             a
             Mind
             to
             see
             the
             Experiment
             ,
             he
             wou'd
             make
             his
             Horse
             carry
             him
             to
             Mascon
             in
             two
             Hours
             .
             The
             Merchant
             took
             him
             at
             his
             word
             ,
             and
             summon'd
             him
             to
             perform
             his
             Promise
             ,
             to
             which
             he
             consented
             ,
             and
             immediately
             the
             Horse
             gallop'd
             away
             with
             so
             prodigious
             a
             Swiftness
             ,
             that
             we
             lost
             sight
             of
             'em
             in
             a
             Moment
             .
             This
             Accident
             did
             not
             much
             surprize
             us
             at
             first
             ;
             for
             we
             thought
             the
             Priest
             had
             a
             Spur
             conceal'd
             in
             his
             hand
             ,
             with
             which
             he
             prick'd
             the
             Horse
             :
             in
             the
             mean
             time
             we
             rode
             on
             ,
             but
             cou'd
             neither
             see
             ,
             nor
             hear
             the
             least
             News
             of
             our
             Gallopers
             till
             we
             arriv'd
             at
             Mascon
             on
             the
             morrow
             ,
             where
             we
             found
             the
             Merchand
             very
             melancholick
             .
             He
             told
             us
             that
             he
             was
             carry'd
             
             to
             Mascon
             exactly
             in
             two
             Hours
             after
             he
             left
             us
             ,
             with
             so
             much
             Ease
             ,
             that
             he
             imagin'd
             all
             the
             while
             he
             was
             riding
             at
             a
             Hand-Gallop
             ;
             but
             that
             his
             Horse
             fell
             dead
             assoon
             as
             he
             enter'd
             the
             Stable
             .
             He
             concluded
             that
             the
             Priest
             was
             a
             Wizard
             ,
             and
             was
             so
             firmly
             perswaded
             of
             the
             Truth
             of
             his
             Opinion
             ,
             by
             the
             concurring
             Testimony
             of
             our
             Landlord
             ,
             who
             knew
             the
             Man
             ,
             that
             he
             enter'd
             an
             Accusation
             against
             him
             ,
             and
             procur'd
             him
             to
             be
             apprehended
             the
             same
             day
             .
             I
             was
             oblig'd
             to
             give
             Evidence
             with
             the
             rest
             ,
             and
             to
             declare
             all
             that
             I
             had
             seen
             him
             do
             ,
             which
             ,
             in
             my
             Opinion
             ,
             cou'd
             not
             amount
             to
             a
             convincing
             Proof
             of
             his
             Guilt
             .
             I
             know
             no
             Reason
             that
             shou'd
             hinder
             us
             from
             supposing
             that
             a
             good
             English
             Horse
             ,
             such
             as
             the
             Merchant
             's
             was
             ,
             might
             with
             a
             good
             Spur
             be
             made
             to
             gallop
             eight
             Leagues
             in
             two
             hours
             ,
             and
             without
             any
             Enchantment
             fall
             dead
             at
             his
             Journey
             's
             End.
             Yet
             this
             Accident
             made
             a
             great
             Noise
             ,
             and
             the
             
               Poor
               Devil
            
             was
             sent
             to
             Prison
             ,
             where
             I
             left
             him
             .
             I
             had
             almost
             forgot
             to
             tell
             you
             that
             they
             found
             in
             his
             Pockets
             a
             Piece
             of
             Parchment
             four
             fingers
             breadth
             long
             ,
             and
             two
             broad
             ,
             with
             this
             Sentence
             in
             
               Red
               Letters
               ,
               Adjutor
               meus
               ,
               &
               Protector
               meus
               ,
               tu
               Domine
               ,
               nè
               derelinquas
               me
               ,
            
             with
             four
             small
             Crosses
             ,
             one
             at
             each
             End
             ,
             one
             above
             ,
             and
             another
             below
             ,
             which
             they
             fansi'd
             to
             be
             a
             certain
             Charm
             or
             Character
             .
          
           
             From
             Mascon
             we
             proceeded
             on
             our
             Journey
             to
             Lyons
             ,
             where
             I
             was
             forc'd
             to
             sell
             my
             Horse
             ,
             who
             was
             gall'd
             under
             the
             Saddle-Bow
             .
             I
             resolv'd
             to
             spend
             some
             Days
             in
             this
             Place
             ,
             that
             I
             might
             have
             time
             to
             take
             a
             full
             View
             of
             a
             City
             that
             is
             esteem'd
             the
             Largest
             and
             most
             Considerable
             in
             the
             Kingdom
             ,
             next
             to
             Paris
             ,
             and
             is
             certainly
             worthy
             of
             all
             the
             Curiosity
             of
             a
             Traveller
             .
             'T
             is
             seated
             at
             the
             Confluence
             of
             the
             Rhone
             and
             the
             Saône
             ,
             in
             a
             Bottom
             between
             two
             Hills
             .
             The
             Houses
             equal
             ,
             or
             rather
             exceed
             those
             of
             Paris
             in
             Heighth
             ,
             some
             of
             'em
             amounting
             
             to
             six
             Stories
             ;
             which
             makes
             the
             Streets
             somewhat
             Dark
             ,
             by
             reason
             of
             their
             Narrowness
             .
             There
             are
             many
             fine
             Courts
             in
             the
             City
             ,
             but
             none
             of
             'em
             are
             comparable
             to
             Belle-Cour
             ,
             which
             is
             embellish'd
             with
             Rows
             of
             Trees
             ;
             tho'
             its
             principal
             Ornament
             consists
             in
             the
             Company
             that
             resort
             to
             it
             ;
             for
             't
             is
             the
             general
             Rendezvous
             of
             all
             the
             People
             of
             Quality
             and
             good
             Breeding
             ;
             and
             since
             the
             Ladies
             here
             are
             no
             less
             Generous
             than
             Charming
             ,
             and
             cannot
             justly
             be
             accus'd
             of
             Inhumanity
             to
             their
             Captives
             ,
             there
             are
             many
             Intrigues
             form'd
             in
             this
             Place
             ,
             which
             are
             carry'd
             on
             with
             all
             the
             Tenderness
             and
             Pleasure
             that
             a
             reciprocal
             Passion
             can
             inspire
             .
          
           
             To
             give
             you
             a
             compendious
             Account
             of
             the
             publick
             Edifices
             in
             Lions
             ,
             in
             which
             respect
             it
             holds
             the
             first
             Rank
             ,
             without
             Controversy
             ,
             among
             all
             the
             Cities
             of
             France
             ;
             I
             shall
             begin
             with
             the
             Metropolitan
             Church
             ,
             dedicated
             to
             S.
             John
             ,
             and
             founded
             by
             John
             King
             of
             Burgundy
             ,
             on
             the
             Ruines
             of
             a
             Temple
             formerly
             consecrated
             to
             Augustus
             .
             There
             is
             a
             Clock
             near
             the
             Choir
             ,
             which
             surpasses
             that
             of
             Strasburg
             in
             the
             fineness
             of
             its
             Contrivance
             and
             Workmanship
             ;
             for
             ,
             besides
             all
             the
             Rarities
             mention'd
             in
             the
             Description
             of
             that
             famous
             Machine
             ,
             the
             Clock
             of
             Lions
             has
             several
             peculiar
             Beauties
             ;
             among
             which
             I
             shall
             only
             take
             notice
             of
             the
             Angel
             that
             Chants
             the
             Hymn
             of
             S.
             John
             with
             all
             the
             exactness
             imaginable
             .
             The
             Needle
             that
             marks
             the
             Hours
             ,
             and
             grows
             longer
             or
             shorter
             according
             to
             the
             various
             dimensions
             of
             the
             Oval
             Dial
             ,
             and
             the
             Days
             of
             the
             Week
             mark'd
             by
             Figures
             that
             appear
             every
             Morning
             in
             a
             Nich
             on
             the
             top
             of
             the
             Clock
             ,
             in
             the
             room
             of
             those
             that
             possess'd
             the
             same
             place
             the
             Day
             before
             .
          
           
             The
             
               King
               of
               France
            
             by
             Virtue
             of
             his
             Crown
             ,
             is
             the
             first
             Canon
             of
             this
             Church
             ;
             and
             all
             the
             rest
             
             have
             the
             Title
             of
             Counts
             ;
             and
             must
             prove
             their
             Nobility
             before
             they
             can
             be
             receiv'd
             .
          
           
             There
             are
             several
             other
             Magnificent
             Churches
             in
             Lions
             .
             That
             of
             
               Nôtre-dame
               de
               Forvieres
            
             is
             one
             of
             the
             most
             ancient
             ,
             which
             was
             formerly
             dedicated
             to
             Venus
             .
             Every
             curious
             Traveller
             ought
             to
             view
             the
             City
             from
             the
             Steeple
             of
             this
             Church
             ,
             where
             he
             may
             have
             a
             distinct
             Prospect
             of
             its
             Extent
             and
             Situation
             .
             Adjoining
             to
             this
             are
             the
             Ruines
             of
             the
             Palace
             of
             Augustus
             ,
             and
             of
             a
             Neighbouring
             Amphitheatre
             ,
             where
             Learned
             and
             Inquisitive
             Antiquaries
             may
             find
             an
             excellent
             Opportunity
             to
             display
             their
             Skill
             in
             the
             Examination
             of
             an
             infinite
             Number
             of
             Inscriptions
             ,
             Statues
             ,
             Tombs
             ,
             Urns
             ,
             Medals
             ,
             and
             other
             rich
             Monuments
             of
             the
             Roman
             Grandeur
             .
             But
             my
             unacquaintedness
             with
             those
             Studies
             makes
             me
             purposely
             decline
             entring
             upon
             this
             Subject
             ;
             since
             I
             'm
             confident
             you
             'll
             be
             better
             pleas'd
             with
             my
             Silence
             ,
             than
             if
             I
             shou'd
             send
             you
             an
             imperfect
             or
             erroneous
             Account
             ,
             under
             the
             specious
             Title
             of
             
               A
               Description
               of
               the
               Antiquities
               of
            
             Lions
             .
          
           
             The
             Town-House
             is
             a
             Master-piece
             of
             Art
             ,
             compleatly
             furnish'd
             with
             all
             the
             Advantages
             and
             Ornaments
             of
             Beauty
             ,
             Situation
             ,
             Extent
             ,
             Height
             ,
             Architecture
             ,
             Marbles
             ,
             Paintings
             ,
             Gardens
             ,
             Fountains
             ,
             Antiquities
             ,
             and
             every
             thing
             else
             that
             may
             recommend
             a
             Building
             to
             the
             Observation
             of
             a
             Curious
             and
             Knowing
             Traveller
             .
             It
             s
             Front
             regards
             the
             
               Place
               des
               Terreaux
            
             ,
             which
             is
             one
             of
             the
             most
             pleasant
             Courts
             in
             in
             the
             City
             ;
             and
             before
             it
             there
             is
             a
             lovely
             Fountain
             ,
             which
             is
             none
             of
             its
             least
             Considerable
             Ornaments
             .
             In
             the
             first
             place
             I
             took
             notice
             of
             a
             large
             Clock-Tower
             ,
             rising
             between
             two
             high
             Pavilions
             ,
             under
             which
             is
             the
             Entry
             to
             the
             Palace
             adorn'd
             with
             large
             Columns
             of
             a
             precious
             kind
             of
             Marble
             .
             Then
             I
             went
             up
             some
             Steps
             ,
             and
             coming
             under
             the
             Pavilions
             ,
             observ'd
             two
             Tables
             
             of
             Brass
             ,
             where
             I
             found
             engrav'd
             in
             Ancient
             Characters
             ,
             the
             Patent
             granted
             by
             the
             Emperour
             Cla●dius
             to
             the
             Inhabitants
             of
             Lions
             ,
             when
             he
             bestow'd
             the
             Privileges
             of
             Roman
             Citizens
             upon
             '
             em
             .
             From
             thence
             I
             enter'd
             into
             the
             First
             ,
             and
             afterwards
             into
             the
             Second
             Court
             ,
             where
             I
             consider'd
             with
             a
             great
             deal
             of
             Pleasure
             and
             Attention
             ,
             the
             Structure
             and
             Design
             of
             that
             Majestick
             Mass
             of
             Building
             ,
             which
             is
             of
             a
             Square
             Figure
             ,
             and
             bounded
             at
             the
             four
             Corners
             with
             as
             many
             large
             and
             very
             high
             Pavilions
             .
             Afterwards
             I
             went
             down
             to
             the
             Garden
             ,
             which
             is
             embellish'd
             with
             Gravel
             Walks
             ,
             Beds
             of
             Flowers
             ,
             Fountains
             ,
             and
             a
             hundred
             other
             Ornaments
             .
             After
             I
             had
             satisfy'd
             my
             Curiosity
             with
             a
             View
             of
             the
             external
             Beauties
             of
             this
             Noble
             Structure
             ,
             I
             return'd
             to
             admire
             the
             inside
             of
             it
             .
             I
             went
             up
             a
             pair
             of
             winding
             Stairs
             ,
             of
             a
             very
             excellent
             Contrivance
             ,
             to
             the
             Hall
             ,
             where
             I
             was
             agreeably
             surpriz'd
             with
             its
             Largeness
             ,
             Gilding
             ,
             Paintings
             ,
             and
             especially
             a
             great
             number
             of
             Pictures
             of
             the
             Kings
             of
             France
             ,
             which
             are
             all
             finish'd
             Pieces
             :
             And
             in
             the
             the
             other
             Apartments
             I
             observ'd
             a
             vast
             variety
             of
             different
             Beauties
             ,
             which
             I
             dare
             not
             undertake
             to
             describe
             .
             I
             spent
             the
             whole
             Morning
             in
             this
             House
             ,
             and
             employ'd
             the
             Afternoon
             with
             a
             great
             deal
             of
             Satisfaction
             ,
             in
             visiting
             the
             Hospitals
             ,
             which
             may
             be
             reckon'd
             among
             the
             most
             considerable
             Foundations
             of
             that
             Nature
             in
             
               France
               .
               Hòtel
               Dieu
            
             is
             a
             spacious
             Structure
             ,
             well
             built
             ,
             and
             very
             rich
             :
             All
             sorts
             of
             diseas'd
             Persons
             are
             receiv'd
             into
             it
             ;
             so
             that
             't
             is
             always
             very
             full
             ,
             and
             wou'd
             hardly
             be
             able
             to
             maintain
             so
             vast
             a
             Charge
             ,
             notwithstanding
             the
             greatness
             of
             its
             Revenues
             ,
             if
             the
             Archbishop
             did
             not
             bestow
             upon
             it
             the
             Profits
             accruing
             from
             the
             Dispensation
             of
             eating
             Eggs
             ,
             Milk
             ,
             Flesh
             ,
             &c.
             
             The
             Hospital
             
               de
               la
               Charite
            
             is
             a
             Modern
             Foundation
             ;
             and
             tho'
             t
             is
             not
             near
             so
             large
             
             as
             the
             former
             ,
             it
             may
             be
             justly
             reckon'd
             equal
             to
             it
             in
             other
             respects
             .
             On
             the
             top
             of
             a
             great
             Portal
             ,
             that
             serves
             for
             an
             Entry
             to
             the
             Building
             ,
             there
             is
             the
             Figure
             of
             a
             Pelican
             ,
             tearing
             her
             Breast
             ,
             to
             feed
             her
             young
             ones
             ;
             the
             true
             Emblem
             of
             Charity
             I
             observ'd
             one
             thing
             at
             Lions
             which
             I
             had
             not
             seen
             in
             any
             other
             part
             of
             France
             ,
             I
             mean
             the
             Place
             of
             Refuge
             for
             Criminals
             ,
             which
             is
             neither
             a
             Church
             nor
             Royal
             Palace
             ,
             but
             a
             House
             appointed
             for
             that
             Purpose
             ,
             and
             usually
             call'd
             the
             Sanctuary
             .
             Towards
             the
             Gate
             
               des
               Trions
            
             ,
             I
             saw
             the
             Aqueducts
             that
             were
             built
             by
             the
             Romans
             for
             the
             Conveyance
             of
             Water
             into
             the
             City
             ;
             and
             not
             far
             from
             thence
             there
             is
             a
             Cave
             ,
             call'd
             the
             Grotto
             ,
             which
             is
             also
             said
             to
             be
             one
             of
             their
             Works
             .
             The
             Country
             about
             the
             City
             is
             embellish'd
             with
             a
             vast
             number
             of
             lovely
             Seats
             ,
             among
             which
             
               la
               Duchere
            
             and
             
               la
               Claire
            
             deserve
             a
             particular
             Observation
             .
             The
             City
             has
             six
             Gates
             ,
             three
             Bridges
             ,
             about
             two
             hundred
             Streets
             ,
             and
             above
             a
             hundred
             Churches
             ,
             Convents
             ,
             or
             Chapels
             .
             The
             Archbishop
             is
             the
             chief
             Prelate
             of
             the
             Gauls
             ,
             and
             by
             Virtue
             of
             his
             Primacy
             receives
             Appeals
             from
             all
             the
             parts
             of
             France
             in
             Ecclesiastical
             Cases
             .
             Monsieur
             
               de
               Villeroy
            
             is
             the
             present
             Archbishop
             ,
             and
             Lieutenant-General
             of
             the
             whole
             Province
             .
             He
             is
             descended
             of
             a
             very
             honourable
             Family
             ,
             but
             is
             certainly
             one
             of
             the
             roughest
             and
             least
             Complaisant
             Men
             in
             the
             World.
             I
             cannot
             forbear
             relating
             to
             you
             ,
             upon
             this
             occasion
             ,
             a
             very
             pleasant
             Discourse
             that
             pass'd
             between
             this
             Prelate
             and
             Monsieur
             
               de
               la
               Feuillade
            
             .
          
           
             That
             Mareschal
             ,
             says
             the
             Story
             ,
             riding
             Post
             to
             Turin
             ,
             in
             a
             very
             mean
             Garb
             ,
             to
             dispatch
             some
             Affairs
             of
             Importance
             ,
             stopt
             at
             Li●ns
             to
             deliver
             a
             Packet
             from
             the
             King
             to
             the
             Archbishop
             ,
             who
             taking
             the
             Bearer
             for
             an
             Ordinary
             Courier
             ,
             because
             he
             pretended
             to
             no
             higher
             Quality
             ,
             ask'd
             
             him
             ,
             
               Whether
               there
               were
               any
            
             News
             
               at
               Paris
            
             .
             Green
             Pease
             ,
             
               my
               Lord
            
             ,
             reply'd
             the
             Mareschal
             .
             
               You
               mistake
               my
               meaning
               ,
               Friend
               ,
            
             said
             the
             Archbishop
             ;
             
               I
               wou'd
               know
               what
               People
               were
            
             saying
             
               when
               you
               left
               Paris
               ?
               My
               Lord
               ,
            
             answer'd
             the
             Mareschal
             ,
             
               they
               were
            
             saying
             Vespers
             .
             Then
             the
             Prelate
             perceiving
             that
             the
             pretended
             Courier
             abus'd
             him
             ,
             fell
             into
             a
             Passion
             ,
             saying
             ,
             
               How
               ,
               Friend
               ?
               where
               were
               you
               taught
               to
               speak
               thus
               to
               Persons
               of
               my
               Quality
               and
               Character
               ?
               What
               are
               you
               ?
               —
               What
               do
               People
               use
               to
            
             call
             
               you
               ?
               Why
               ,
               my
               Lord
               ,
            
             reply'd
             the
             Mareschal
             ,
             
               some
               are
               pleas'd
               to
            
             call
             
               me
               Friend
               ,
               others
               Monsieur
               ,
               and
               the
               King
               calls
               me
               Cousin
               .
            
             These
             Words
             surpriz'd
             the
             Archbishop
             ,
             who
             ,
             considering
             the
             Mareschal
             more
             attentively
             ,
             at
             last
             knew
             him
             ,
             and
             made
             an
             Apology
             for
             his
             incivility
             .
             Nevertheless
             I
             can
             hardly
             be
             induc'd
             to
             believe
             that
             a
             Man
             of
             his
             Quality
             wou'd
             have
             stoop'd
             to
             such
             
               punning
               Wit
            
             ,
             which
             is
             only
             graceful
             in
             the
             Mouth
             of
             a
             true
             Courier
             :
             Tho'
             't
             is
             well
             known
             that
             Monsieur
             
               de
               la
               Feuillade
            
             was
             a
             Person
             of
             a
             very
             odd
             and
             singular
             Humour
             .
             You
             have
             doubtless
             read
             what
             an
             Author
             of
             great
             Reputation
             relates
             concerning
             his
             Discourse
             to
             the
             King
             about
             the
             Archbishop
             of
             Rheims
             ;
             and
             if
             you
             can
             believe
             that
             Story
             ,
             you
             will
             not
             think
             this
             incredible
             .
          
           
             Lions
             is
             a
             very
             ancient
             City
             ,
             known
             to
             
               Titus
               Livius
            
             and
             Plutarch
             by
             the
             Name
             of
             
               The
               Island
            
             .
             The
             Name
             which
             it
             still
             retains
             was
             given
             to
             it
             by
             Anthony
             ,
             (
             who
             obtain'd
             
               Celtica
               Gallia
            
             for
             his
             part
             of
             the
             Empire
             )
             when
             he
             enter'd
             the
             City
             on
             a
             Triumphant
             Chariot
             drawn
             by
             twelve
             Lions
             ;
             and
             he
             afterwards
             caus'd
             Money
             to
             be
             coin'd
             in
             the
             same
             place
             ,
             of
             which
             I
             have
             seen
             some
             Pieces
             ,
             bearing
             his
             Figure
             on
             one
             side
             ,
             and
             on
             the
             other
             a
             Lion
             ,
             with
             the
             Word
             Lugduni
             .
             The
             Town
             it self
             neither
             is
             ,
             nor
             can
             be
             made
             very
             strong
             ;
             but
             't
             is
             commanded
             by
             three
             good
             Castles
             which
             defend
             its
             Avenues
             .
             The
             first
             is
             the
             famous
             Fort
             of
             
               Peter
               Ancise
            
             ,
             
             built
             on
             the
             top
             of
             a
             steep
             Mountain
             ,
             with
             the
             rare
             Advantage
             of
             an
             excellent
             Spring
             of
             Water
             ;
             the
             second
             is
             that
             of
             S.
             Sebastian
             ;
             and
             the
             third
             has
             the
             Name
             of
             S.
             Clair
             .
          
           
             I
             intended
             to
             have
             gone
             directly
             from
             Lions
             to
             Geneva
             ;
             but
             I
             soon
             found
             that
             I
             cou'd
             not
             prosecute
             that
             Design
             without
             throwing
             my self
             into
             unavoidable
             Dangers
             ;
             for
             the
             Protestants
             are
             so
             narrowly
             watch'd
             every
             where
             ,
             that
             't
             is
             absolutely
             impossible
             to
             travel
             thither
             without
             a
             Pass-port
             ,
             unless
             a
             Man
             were
             Master
             of
             the
             Invention
             of
             flying
             thro'
             the
             Air.
             Nor
             is
             it
             very
             safe
             to
             demand
             a
             Pass-port
             of
             the
             Archbishop
             ;
             for
             very
             lately
             he
             order'd
             two
             Merchants
             to
             be
             apprehended
             ,
             for
             no
             other
             reason
             than
             that
             they
             were
             going
             to
             Geneva
             .
             That
             Name
             alone
             is
             sufficient
             to
             make
             any
             Man
             pass
             for
             a
             Heretick
             that
             dares
             venture
             to
             pronounce
             it
             ;
             and
             he
             may
             reckon
             himself
             favourably
             treated
             if
             his
             Crime
             be
             not
             immediately
             judg'd
             worthy
             of
             the
             Gallows
             .
             You
             cannot
             imagine
             with
             what
             care
             I
             avoid
             the
             mentioning
             of
             so
             dangerous
             a
             Word
             ;
             and
             ,
             I
             assure
             you
             ,
             I
             'm
             so
             much
             in
             Love
             with
             the
             Principle
             of
             Self-preservation
             ,
             that
             I
             talk
             of
             nothing
             but
             Rome
             ;
             and
             pretend
             that
             the
             only
             Design
             of
             my
             Travels
             is
             to
             wait
             upon
             the
             Duke
             
               de
               Chaûnes
            
             .
          
           
             All
             this
             Caution
             ,
             and
             the
             Commotions
             that
             at
             present
             disturb
             this
             Country
             ,
             are
             occasion'd
             by
             the
             return
             of
             the
             Vaudois
             ,
             who
             arming
             themselves
             in
             the
             Canton
             of
             Bern
             in
             Switzerland
             ,
             with
             a
             Secrecy
             that
             prevented
             even
             the
             Suspicions
             of
             their
             Enemies
             ,
             form'd
             two
             Bodies
             ,
             one
             of
             1200
             ,
             and
             the
             other
             of
             3000
             Men
             ;
             and
             embarking
             on
             the
             Lake
             of
             Geneva
             ,
             forc'd
             their
             way
             thro'
             Savoy
             to
             their
             own
             Country
             ,
             in
             spite
             of
             the
             united
             Forces
             of
             France
             and
             Savoy
             ,
             who
             oppos'd
             their
             Passage
             ,
             and
             oblig'd
             'em
             to
             five
             or
             six
             Battels
             ,
             or
             rather
             Skirmishes
             ,
             in
             which
             the
             Vaudois
             had
             
             still
             the
             Advantage
             ;
             but
             all
             those
             who
             were
             caught
             straggling
             were
             made
             to
             pay
             for
             their
             Fellows
             ,
             and
             immediately
             hang'd
             without
             Mercy
             .
             'T
             is
             impossible
             for
             a
             considering
             Person
             to
             reflect
             without
             amazement
             ,
             on
             the
             Success
             of
             that
             Enterprize
             .
             The
             first
             Body
             of
             those
             poor
             Exiles
             had
             so
             little
             Experience
             in
             the
             Management
             of
             Warlike
             Expeditions
             ,
             that
             there
             was
             not
             one
             Officer
             among
             'em
             to
             conduct
             the
             rest
             ;
             for
             they
             had
             no
             other
             Commanders
             but
             one
             Monsieur
             Arnaud
             ,
             a
             Minister
             ,
             and
             under
             him
             a
             Mason
             ,
             nam'd
             Turel
             ,
             for
             their
             Lieutenant-General
             .
             Judge
             ,
             Sir
             ,
             whether
             such
             doughty
             Captains
             were
             fitted
             for
             the
             Atchievement
             of
             an
             Attempt
             ,
             which
             a
             Triple
             number
             of
             regulated
             Troops
             durst
             not
             have
             undertaken
             .
             This
             Consideration
             makes
             me
             very
             inclinable
             to
             believe
             that
             the
             Duke
             of
             Savoy
             not
             only
             knew
             and
             allow'd
             ,
             but
             was
             the
             Promoter
             ,
             and
             even
             the
             Author
             of
             their
             Design
             ;
             especially
             since
             't
             is
             plain
             that
             he
             might
             have
             easily
             prevented
             the
             Execution
             of
             it
             ,
             by
             cutting
             off
             their
             Passage
             ,
             and
             making
             'em
             perish
             in
             the
             Mountains
             .
          
           
             I
             have
             said
             enough
             to
             convince
             you
             ,
             that
             't
             is
             not
             safe
             for
             me
             to
             prosecute
             my
             intended
             Journey
             to
             Geneva
             ;
             however
             I
             'll
             leave
             no
             means
             unessay'd
             ,
             to
             get
             out
             of
             the
             limits
             of
             France
             ,
             and
             to
             break
             thro'
             all
             the
             Difficulties
             that
             lie
             in
             my
             Way
             .
             In
             pursuance
             of
             that
             Design
             ,
             which
             I
             confess
             seems
             in
             a
             manner
             impracticable
             ,
             I
             'm
             resolv'd
             at
             all
             Adventures
             to
             go
             to
             Grenoble
             ,
             that
             I
             may
             at
             least
             draw
             nearer
             the
             Confines
             of
             the
             Kingdom
             ,
             in
             expectation
             of
             a
             more
             favourable
             Opportunity
             to
             get
             beyond
             '
             em
             .
             I
             am
             ,
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
             
               Your
               &c.
               
            
             
               Lions
               ,
               
                 Nov.
                 1689.
                 
              
            
          
        
         
           
           
             LETTER
             V.
             
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
          
           
             I
             Acquainted
             you
             in
             my
             last
             with
             my
             Resolutition
             to
             continue
             my
             Journey
             to
             Grenoble
             .
             At
             my
             departure
             from
             Lions
             I
             hir'd
             a
             Post-Ass
             at
             S.
             Siforins
             ,
             out
             of
             pure
             Curiosity
             to
             try
             so
             rare
             an
             Experiment
             :
             Tho'
             I
             must
             confess
             this
             way
             of
             Travelling
             is
             not
             altogether
             without
             its
             Advantages
             ;
             for
             the
             Rider
             may
             boldly
             venture
             a
             Fall
             ,
             without
             running
             the
             hazard
             of
             breaking
             his
             Neck
             .
             I
             pass'd
             thro'
             Vienne
             ,
             a
             very
             Ancient
             City
             ,
             and
             of
             Old
             much
             esteem'd
             by
             the
             Romans
             ,
             notwithstanding
             its
             disadvantageous
             Situation
             at
             the
             bottom
             of
             two
             great
             Mountains
             ,
             which
             darken
             the
             Place
             extremely
             .
             Pilate
             ,
             the
             Governour
             of
             Jerusalem
             ,
             and
             our
             Saviour's
             Judge
             ,
             was
             afterwards
             sent
             hither
             ;
             and
             they
             still
             show
             the
             Praetorium
             ,
             or
             Hall
             of
             Justice
             ,
             where
             he
             was
             wont
             to
             pronounce
             Judgment
             .
             There
             is
             a
             round
             Stone
             in
             the
             Wall
             with
             this
             Inscription
             ,
             
               This
               is
               the
               Globe
               of
               Pilate's
               Scepter
            
             ;
             tho'
             its
             unfitness
             for
             such
             an
             Use
             makes
             me
             rather
             inclinable
             to
             believe
             ,
             that
             the
             Inscription
             speaks
             of
             the
             House
             ,
             which
             might
             be
             call'd
             
               The
               Globe
               of
               a
               Sceptre
            
             ,
             by
             way
             of
             Figure
             or
             Allusion
             .
             They
             also
             make
             Strangers
             take
             notice
             of
             a
             square
             Tower
             ,
             where
             they
             pretend
             he
             ended
             his
             Days
             ,
             after
             an
             Imprisonment
             of
             Seven
             Years
             .
             The
             City
             is
             full
             of
             such-like
             Antiquities
             ,
             which
             are
             the
             only
             things
             in
             it
             that
             deserve
             a
             Traveller's
             Observation
             ;
             for
             the
             Buildings
             are
             very
             inconsiderable
             .
             S.
             Severus's
             Church
             stands
             in
             a
             Place
             where
             formerly
             the
             Heathens
             ador'd
             a
             
               Hundred
               Gods
            
             ,
             under
             a
             great
             Tree
             ,
             that
             was
             afterwards
             cut
             
             down
             and
             rooted
             up
             by
             that
             Saint's
             Order
             ,
             as
             appears
             by
             this
             Inscription
             on
             a
             Column
             :
             
               Arborem
               Deos
               Severus
               evertit
               
               Centum
               Deorum
               .
            
          
           
             There
             goes
             a
             Story
             ,
             that
             under
             that
             Tree
             there
             was
             found
             a
             Death's-Head
             ,
             full
             of
             Gold
             and
             Silver
             ,
             with
             which
             the
             Church
             was
             built
             .
             I
             will
             not
             pretend
             to
             demonstrate
             the
             falseness
             of
             this
             Tradition
             ;
             but
             I
             think
             I
             may
             venture
             to
             conclude
             ,
             that
             either
             the
             Head
             was
             very
             big
             ,
             or
             the
             Wages
             of
             Workmen
             in
             those
             Days
             very
             low
             ;
             for
             such
             a
             Structure
             cou'd
             not
             now
             be
             erected
             for
             sixty
             thousand
             Crowns
             .
          
           
             Without
             the
             City
             ,
             in
             a
             place
             call'd
             
               The
               Field
               de
               l'
               Aguillé
            
             ,
             there
             is
             an
             high
             Pyramid
             ,
             consisting
             of
             several
             Stones
             join'd
             together
             without
             Mortar
             or
             Cement
             ,
             and
             supported
             by
             an
             Ancient
             Vault
             of
             the
             same
             kind
             of
             Architecture
             ,
             resembling
             a
             little
             Chapel
             .
             The
             Inhabitants
             of
             Vienne
             pretend
             that
             this
             Pyramid
             was
             erected
             by
             an
             Emperour
             ,
             with
             a
             Design
             that
             his
             Ashes
             shou'd
             be
             plac'd
             in
             an
             Urn
             on
             the
             top
             of
             it
             ,
             that
             his
             Tomb
             might
             be
             nearer
             Heaven
             .
             The
             Archiepiscopal
             Church
             is
             consecrated
             to
             S.
             Maurice
             ,
             whose
             Head
             is
             preserv'd
             in
             it
             .
             The
             Archbishop
             assumes
             the
             Quality
             of
             
               Primate
               of
               the
               Primates
               of
               the
               Gauls
            
             ;
             pretending
             a
             right
             to
             that
             Title
             ,
             in
             opposition
             to
             the
             Archbishop
             of
             Lions
             ,
             against
             whom
             he
             has
             a
             Suit
             on
             this
             Occasion
             ,
             that
             (
             if
             we
             we
             may
             judge
             by
             Appearances
             )
             will
             not
             be
             soon
             decided
             .
             Vienne
             was
             the
             Capital
             City
             of
             Dauphiné
             ,
             before
             the
             erection
             of
             a
             Parliament
             at
             Grenoble
             ;
             and
             therefore
             the
             Kings
             of
             France
             ,
             among
             the
             rest
             of
             their
             Titles
             ,
             style
             themselves
             
               Dauphins
               of
               Viennois
            
             .
          
           
             From
             thence
             continuing
             my
             Journey
             ,
             mounted
             as
             before
             ,
             at
             the
             rate
             of
             five
             Sous
             by
             the
             Stage
             ,
             
             which
             is
             the
             ordinary
             Price
             ;
             I
             and
             my
             Ass
             had
             the
             Fortune
             to
             meet
             with
             a
             Couple
             of
             Fellow-Travellers
             .
             Immediately
             I
             accosted
             my
             Companion
             ,
             and
             finding
             nothing
             either
             in
             his
             Mien
             or
             Discourse
             that
             deserv'd
             Contempt
             ,
             I
             concluded
             that
             he
             was
             a
             Merchant
             of
             Lions
             or
             Grenoble
             .
             About
             two
             Hours
             after
             our
             Meeting
             ,
             perceiving
             at
             a
             considerable
             distance
             a
             Coach
             drawn
             by
             Six
             Horses
             ,
             and
             attended
             with
             some
             Horsemen
             ,
             coming
             towards
             us
             ,
             he
             presently
             alighted
             ,
             and
             turn'd
             his
             Ass
             loose
             :
             Then
             shrinking
             up
             one
             of
             his
             Arms
             ,
             and
             turning
             it
             awry
             ,
             as
             if
             he
             had
             been
             Lame
             ,
             he
             walk'd
             bare-headed
             to
             the
             Boot
             of
             the
             Coach
             ,
             and
             begg'd
             Charity
             of
             the
             Passengers
             .
             I
             was
             extremely
             surpriz'd
             at
             so
             odd
             and
             unexpected
             an
             Action
             ,
             nor
             cou'd
             I
             divine
             the
             Meaning
             of
             it
             ;
             for
             I
             thought
             it
             almost
             impossible
             that
             a
             Man
             ,
             who
             ,
             I
             imagin'd
             ,
             was
             neither
             Poor
             nor
             Sick
             ,
             cou'd
             be
             guilty
             of
             so
             much
             Baseness
             :
             However
             ,
             since
             my
             Beast
             had
             already
             carry'd
             me
             so
             far
             ,
             that
             I
             cou'd
             not
             observe
             distinctly
             what
             he
             said
             or
             did
             ,
             I
             resolv'd
             to
             suspend
             my
             Judgment
             till
             I
             shou'd
             learn
             the
             reason
             of
             it
             from
             his
             own
             Mouth
             .
             Assoon
             as
             he
             came
             up
             ,
             I
             ask'd
             what
             he
             went
             to
             do
             at
             the
             Coach
             ;
             Somewhat
             ,
             reply'd
             he
             ,
             
               that
               will
               doubtless
               surprize
               you
               :
               Perhaps
               you
               did
               not
               believe
               me
               to
               be
               a
               profess'd
               Beggar
               ;
               yet
               I
               assure
               you
               I
               have
               no
               other
               Trade
               ;
               and
               if
               you
               stay
               at
            
             Grenoble
             ,
             
               you
               may
               be
               a
               Witness
               of
               my
               Diligence
               in
               that
               Vocation
               .
               I
               'm
               going
               to
               the
               Hospital
               in
               that
               City
               ,
               where
               I
               'm
               sure
               of
               a
               Lodging
               ,
               for
               three
               Days
               ,
               during
               which
               I
               hope
               to
               get
               three
               Pistoles
               .
            
             I
             was
             no
             less
             astonish'd
             at
             what
             I
             heard
             him
             say
             ,
             than
             at
             what
             I
             had
             already
             seen
             him
             do
             :
             But
             he
             went
             on
             with
             the
             same
             Frankness
             ,
             and
             told
             me
             the
             whole
             History
             of
             his
             Life
             .
             He
             said
             he
             was
             born
             at
             Avignon
             ,
             of
             a
             considerable
             Family
             in
             that
             City
             ,
             and
             that
             he
             had
             actually
             a
             Revenue
             of
             above
             200
             Livres
             ;
             that
             during
             his
             
             Infancy
             he
             had
             so
             strong
             an
             Inclination
             to
             Begging
             ,
             that
             he
             usually
             stole
             away
             from
             his
             Father
             and
             Mother
             to
             ask
             Alms
             on
             the
             High-ways
             ;
             where
             he
             sometimes
             pick'd
             up
             twenty
             or
             thirty
             Sous
             a
             Day
             ,
             which
             made
             him
             so
             fond
             of
             that
             Course
             of
             Life
             ,
             that
             he
             cou'd
             never
             afterwards
             leave
             it
             .
             He
             assur'd
             me
             ,
             that
             the
             Trade
             of
             Begging
             was
             attended
             at
             least
             with
             as
             much
             Pleasure
             as
             Pain
             ;
             and
             that
             he
             was
             so
             accustom'd
             to
             it
             ,
             that
             he
             was
             resolv'd
             to
             make
             it
             the
             only
             Business
             of
             his
             Life
             .
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             I
             hearken'd
             to
             him
             with
             an
             Admiration
             that
             wou'd
             not
             suffer
             me
             to
             interrupt
             him
             ;
             and
             he
             scrupl'd
             not
             to
             acquaint
             me
             with
             most
             of
             the
             usual
             Tricks
             of
             his
             Fellow-Vagabonds
             .
             They
             spend
             their
             whole
             Lives
             in
             wandring
             from
             one
             Hospital
             to
             another
             ,
             and
             know
             exactly
             all
             the
             Customs
             of
             those
             Places
             ,
             and
             the
             various
             Offices
             of
             Charity
             that
             were
             appointed
             by
             the
             Founders
             to
             be
             perform'd
             in
             '
             em
             .
             Some
             of
             'em
             cover
             themselves
             with
             Rags
             ,
             and
             putting
             their
             Arms
             or
             Legs
             out
             of
             Joint
             ,
             take
             up
             their
             Post
             at
             a
             Church
             Door
             from
             Morning
             to
             Night
             ,
             while
             others
             go
             about
             in
             a
             pretty
             decent
             Garb
             ,
             and
             pretending
             to
             be
             poor
             Officers
             who
             have
             been
             robb'd
             of
             their
             Money
             ,
             and
             are
             at
             a
             great
             distance
             from
             their
             Friends
             and
             Relations
             ,
             beg
             the
             Charitable
             Assistance
             of
             those
             whom
             they
             meet
             ,
             with
             a
             certain
             Bashfulness
             ,
             and
             mournful
             Tone
             ,
             that
             deceives
             many
             well-dispos'd
             Persons
             .
             He
             that
             instructed
             me
             in
             all
             these
             Mysteries
             ,
             was
             of
             the
             Second
             Order
             ,
             and
             contemn'd
             the
             others
             as
             a
             sort
             of
             
               Puny
               Mumpers
            
             ,
             who
             had
             neither
             Courage
             nor
             Ambition
             :
             Adding
             ,
             that
             he
             got
             more
             in
             a
             Day
             that
             the
             best
             of
             them
             cou'd
             do
             in
             a
             whole
             Month.
             Nevertheless
             these
             Strolers
             depend
             not
             wholly
             on
             Charity
             ;
             they
             have
             another
             Trade
             which
             is
             no
             less
             Gainful
             than
             Begging
             ,
             I
             mean
             the
             selling
             of
             
             Pass-Ports
             to
             Travellers
             .
             My
             Companion
             perceiving
             that
             I
             had
             none
             ,
             desir'd
             me
             to
             buy
             one
             of
             him
             ;
             and
             at
             the
             first
             Inn
             where
             we
             alighted
             ,
             shew'd
             me
             at
             least
             a
             Hundred
             .
             I
             ask'd
             him
             the
             Price
             of
             One
             :
             
               There
               are
               some
            
             ,
             answer'd
             he
             ,
             
               of
               all
               Prices
               ,
               as
               well
               as
               other
               Commodities
               ;
               for
               some
               are
               Authentick
               ,
               others
               forg'd
               ;
               some
               of
               an
               old
               ,
               others
               of
               a
               fresh
               Date
               ;
               and
               if
               you
               will
               be
               satisfy'd
               with
               such
               as
               are
               Counterfeit
               ,
               you
               shall
               have
               'em
               for
               fifteen
            
             Sous
             a-piece
             .
             I
             thank'd
             him
             for
             his
             Ingenuity
             ;
             but
             told
             him
             ,
             that
             I
             cou'd
             not
             trust
             to
             a
             false
             
               Pass-Port
               .
               Yet
               they
               are
               as
               sure
               as
               the
               rest
               ,
            
             answer'd
             he
             ,
             
               for
               they
               are
               never
               call'd
               in
               Question
               ;
               and
               all
               the
               Authentick
            
             Pass-Ports
             
               I
               have
               ,
               are
               procur'd
               on
               the
               Credit
               of
               such
               as
               I
               wrote
               with
               my
               own
               Hand
               ,
               for
               otherwise
               they
               wou'd
               not
               give
               me
               any
               :
               However
               ,
               you
               may
               please
               your self
               both
               in
               the
               Choice
               and
               Goodness
               of
               your
               Commodity
               ;
               for
               I
               have
               some
               for
               all
               Places
               .
            
             Then
             I
             ask'd
             him
             one
             for
             Geneva
             ;
             but
             he
             told
             me
             ,
             that
             to
             his
             great
             Sorrow
             and
             Loss
             ,
             't
             was
             impossible
             to
             obtain
             one
             for
             that
             Place
             ;
             assuring
             me
             ,
             that
             if
             he
             had
             a
             Hundred
             of
             'em
             ,
             he
             cou'd
             dispose
             of
             'em
             all
             at
             the
             Rate
             of
             Ten
             Pistoles
             a-piece
             .
             At
             last
             I
             gave
             him
             two
             Pistoles
             for
             a
             Pass-Port
             to
             Rome
             ,
             pretended
             to
             be
             granted
             by
             the
             Archbishop
             of
             Lions
             to
             one
             Bidault
             ,
             and
             afterwards
             ratify'd
             and
             approv'd
             at
             Vienne
             .
             He
             swore
             and
             protested
             that
             't
             wou'd
             infallibly
             procure
             me
             an
             unquestion'd
             Passage
             ;
             but
             the
             extream
             desire
             I
             had
             to
             make
             my
             Escape
             out
             of
             France
             rather
             than
             any
             Credit
             I
             gave
             to
             his
             Asseverations
             ,
             made
             me
             willing
             to
             run
             the
             Hazard
             ;
             tho'
             ,
             after
             all
             ,
             I
             apprehended
             the
             Danger
             to
             be
             greater
             than
             it
             really
             was
             :
             For
             assoon
             as
             I
             presented
             my
             counterfeit
             Pass-Port
             to
             the
             Marquess
             
               de
               S.
               André
            
             ,
             he
             granted
             me
             another
             without
             the
             least
             Difficulty
             ,
             appointing
             me
             to
             pass
             thro'
             
               Chambery
               ,
               S.
               John
               de
               Morienne
               ,
            
             and
             Turin
             .
          
           
           
             Grenoble
             became
             the
             Capital
             City
             of
             Dauphiné
             ,
             when
             Charles
             VII
             .
             establish'd
             a
             Parliament
             in
             it
             ,
             and
             has
             ever
             since
             continu'd
             in
             the
             possession
             of
             that
             Dignity
             .
             This
             Country
             was
             bequeath'd
             to
             King
             
               Philip
               de
               Valois
            
             ,
             by
             Humbert
             ,
             the
             last
             Prince
             of
             Dauphine
             ,
             on
             condition
             that
             from
             thenceforth
             the
             Presumptive
             Heir
             of
             the
             Crown
             of
             France
             ,
             shou'd
             be
             stil'd
             
               Dauphin
               of
               Viennois
            
             ;
             and
             bear
             in
             his
             Coat-Armorial
             the
             Arms
             of
             France
             quarter'd
             with
             those
             of
             Dauphiné
             ,
             which
             are
             ,
             Or
             ,
             
               a
               Dolphin
            
             Azure
             ,
             
               Crested
               ,
               Finn'd
               ,
               and
               Ear'd
            
             Gules
             .
             The
             Tomb
             of
             
               Andrew
               ,
               Humbert's
            
             Son
             ,
             is
             in
             the
             Church
             of
             the
             Dominicans
             that
             fronts
             the
             
               Place
               de
               Grenette
            
             ,
             which
             is
             the
             finest
             in
             Grenoble
             ,
             both
             for
             its
             Largeness
             ,
             and
             the
             Magnificence
             of
             the
             Building
             with
             which
             't
             is
             adorn'd
             ,
             especially
             the
             Parliament-House
             ,
             to
             which
             you
             enter
             thro'
             a
             Court
             ,
             border'd
             with
             Shops
             full
             of
             all
             sorts
             of
             Commodities
             :
             'T
             is
             of
             an
             Antique
             Structure
             ,
             and
             the
             Chambers
             are
             very
             well
             furnish'd
             .
             The
             Governour
             's
             House
             is
             large
             ,
             and
             has
             the
             Advantage
             of
             a
             very
             pleasant
             Prospect
             .
             The
             Episcopal
             Church
             of
             Nôtre-Dame
             is
             another
             Piece
             of
             Architecture
             remarkable
             for
             its
             Antiquity
             .
             But
             after
             all
             ,
             't
             is
             certain
             that
             the
             principal
             Glory
             of
             Grenoble
             consists
             not
             in
             its
             Buildings
             ;
             and
             they
             who
             wou'd
             have
             the
             pleasure
             to
             be
             acquainted
             with
             all
             its
             Beauty
             ,
             must
             not
             expect
             to
             gratifie
             their
             Curiosity
             by
             a
             Transient
             View
             of
             it
             .
             For
             it
             has
             the
             Honour
             to
             be
             the
             Seat
             of
             several
             Noble
             Families
             ,
             who
             are
             so
             far
             above
             the
             Clownishness
             that
             might
             be
             expected
             in
             so
             remote
             a
             Province
             ,
             that
             their
             Conversation
             and
             Deportment
             may
             be
             justly
             reckon'd
             the
             Standard
             of
             Civility
             and
             good
             Breeding
             :
             So
             that
             a
             Stranger
             is
             amaz'd
             to
             find
             the
             most
             refin'd
             Politeness
             of
             the
             Court
             in
             the
             midst
             of
             those
             wild
             Mountains
             .
             'T
             is
             seated
             on
             the
             Banks
             of
             Issere
             ,
             in
             a
             Valley
             ,
             which
             my
             Natural
             aversion
             to
             all
             Hilly
             Countries
             will
             not
             
             suffer
             me
             to
             call
             Pleasant
             .
             Yet
             at
             my
             departure
             from
             the
             City
             ,
             I
             saw
             some
             places
             that
             must
             be
             acknowledged
             to
             have
             a
             kind
             of
             dismal
             Beauty
             ,
             especially
             the
             Monastery
             of
             the
             Carthusians
             .
             The
             very
             Ascent
             to
             it
             is
             a
             Journey
             of
             six
             Hours
             ,
             thro'
             Ways
             that
             are
             almost
             only
             passable
             for
             Mules
             ,
             which
             are
             very
             common
             and
             extremely
             fine
             in
             this
             Country
             :
             At
             least
             I
             can
             assure
             you
             ,
             that
             those
             who
             live
             in
             it
             may
             for
             ever
             despair
             of
             seeing
             any
             Coach
             or
             Waggon
             near
             their
             Habitation
             ,
             unless
             it
             be
             made
             upon
             the
             Place
             .
             These
             Mountains
             ,
             that
             seem
             to
             have
             been
             appointed
             by
             Nature
             as
             a
             wild
             Retreat
             for
             Wolves
             and
             Boars
             ,
             are
             nevertheless
             inhabited
             by
             Humane
             Creatures
             ,
             if
             I
             may
             give
             that
             Name
             to
             Animals
             that
             seem
             to
             have
             a
             nearer
             resemblance
             to
             Bears
             than
             Men.
             Their
             Habit
             consists
             of
             so
             Course
             a
             Cloth
             ,
             that
             they
             never
             wear
             above
             one
             Suit
             of
             Clothes
             during
             their
             whole
             Life
             ,
             tho'
             it
             shou'd
             last
             an
             hundred
             Years
             .
             'T
             is
             a
             certain
             reddish
             Stuff
             ,
             of
             the
             thickness
             of
             two
             Crown
             Pieces
             ,
             and
             every
             Thread
             in
             it
             is
             at
             least
             as
             big
             as
             Packthread
             .
             These
             miserable
             Wretches
             are
             perfect
             Strangers
             to
             all
             manner
             of
             Pleasure
             :
             Their
             main
             or
             only
             Happiness
             consists
             in
             filling
             their
             Stomachs
             with
             a
             sort
             of
             Bread
             that
             none
             of
             our
             Dogs
             wou'd
             taste
             ;
             and
             even
             that
             is
             a
             Rarity
             among
             'em
             :
             They
             drink
             Water
             ,
             and
             live
             Night
             and
             Day
             in
             Huts
             of
             Straw
             in
             the
             midst
             of
             their
             Oxen
             ,
             Cows
             ,
             and
             Hogs
             ,
             which
             are
             their
             usual
             Companions
             ,
             and
             are
             utterly
             unacquainted
             with
             the
             Transactions
             of
             the
             rest
             of
             Mankind
             .
          
           
             'T
             is
             impossible
             to
             approach
             the
             Monastery
             without
             feeling
             an
             over-bearing
             Melancholy
             that
             damps
             the
             gayest
             Spirits
             :
             't
             is
             seated
             between
             two
             high
             and
             rugged
             Mountains
             or
             rather
             perpendicular
             Rocks
             ,
             and
             the
             Ghastliness
             of
             the
             Prospect
             is
             heighten'd
             by
             the
             Pine-Trees
             ,
             that
             cast
             a
             dismal
             Shade
             upon
             the
             jutting
             Cliffs
             .
             And
             to
             compleat
             the
             Horrour
             of
             
             the
             Place
             ,
             the
             Ears
             are
             stunn'd
             with
             the
             amazing
             Dinn
             of
             a
             Torrent
             that
             rolls
             impetuously
             thro'
             the
             Bottom
             which
             separates
             the
             Mountains
             .
             The
             Monks
             have
             spar'd
             no
             Pains
             to
             cut
             a
             Way
             thro'
             those
             naturally
             impassable
             Precipices
             ;
             and
             't
             is
             certain
             that
             so
             laborious
             a
             Work
             cou'd
             not
             be
             perform'd
             without
             a
             vast
             Expence
             of
             Treasure
             .
             However
             they
             cannot
             be
             accus'd
             of
             throwing
             away
             their
             Money
             upon
             useless
             Projects
             ;
             for
             ,
             if
             you
             except
             the
             trouble
             of
             ascending
             and
             descending
             ,
             a
             Man
             may
             walk
             pretty
             easily
             to
             the
             Convent
             from
             the
             Bridges
             that
             are
             built
             at
             the
             two
             Ends
             ,
             and
             in
             the
             narrowest
             Places
             at
             the
             Bottom
             ,
             especially
             that
             next
             Grenoble
             ,
             which
             joins
             the
             opposite
             Mountains
             with
             a
             little
             Arch
             that
             over-looks
             the
             Torrent
             ,
             and
             is
             commanded
             by
             a
             House
             at
             the
             End
             of
             the
             Bridge
             ,
             which
             Ten
             Men
             might
             defend
             against
             a
             Hundred
             thousand
             .
             Nor
             is
             the
             Passage
             to
             the
             Convent
             less
             difficult
             on
             the
             other
             side
             ,
             so
             that
             it
             might
             be
             justly
             esteem'd
             a
             very
             considerable
             Post
             ,
             if
             it
             were
             as
             important
             as
             't
             is
             strong
             :
             but
             in
             my
             Opinion
             the
             Uselesness
             of
             the
             Conquest
             secures
             it
             as
             effectually
             against
             the
             Attacks
             of
             an
             Enemy
             ,
             as
             the
             Strength
             of
             its
             Situation
             .
             These
             Passages
             end
             in
             a
             sort
             of
             Meadow
             or
             little
             Valley
             ,
             containing
             a
             hundred
             Paces
             in
             breadth
             ,
             and
             a
             large
             quarter
             of
             a
             League
             in
             length
             ,
             where
             the
             Monastery
             is
             seated
             .
             The
             Monks
             have
             made
             several
             successless
             Attempts
             to
             cultivate
             and
             embellish
             their
             solitary
             Abode
             ;
             which
             are
             so
             many
             convincing
             Proofs
             of
             the
             Badness
             of
             the
             Soil
             ,
             that
             makes
             it
             incapable
             of
             Improvement
             .
             However
             ,
             they
             still
             continue
             to
             encrease
             their
             Buildings
             ,
             for
             they
             have
             the
             Advantage
             of
             Wood
             ,
             Stones
             ,
             and
             Iron
             upon
             the
             Spot
             ,
             besides
             the
             Conveniency
             of
             Mills
             ,
             that
             are
             turn'd
             by
             a
             small
             Torrent
             which
             passes
             by
             the
             Convent
             ,
             and
             furnishes
             'em
             plentifully
             with
             Water
             .
             I
             'm
             perswaded
             they
             cannot
             eat
             one
             half
             of
             their
             Yearly
             Revenue
             ,
             which
             amounts
             to
             300000
             Livres
             :
             tho'
             Gentlemen
             
             of
             their
             Order
             are
             seldom
             guilty
             of
             pinching
             their
             Bellies
             ,
             and
             tho'
             they
             are
             at
             a
             vast
             Charge
             in
             bringing
             every
             thing
             from
             Grenoble
             .
          
           
             Assoon
             as
             I
             arriv'd
             ,
             the
             Father
             ,
             who
             is
             appointed
             to
             take
             Care
             of
             Strangers
             ,
             brought
             me
             into
             the
             Chamber
             call'd
             the
             Inn
             ,
             or
             
               Place
               of
               Entertainment
            
             ,
             where
             they
             immediately
             kindl'd
             a
             great
             Fire
             ,
             which
             was
             a
             very
             seasonable
             piece
             of
             Hospitality
             ,
             for
             I
             was
             almost
             frozen
             with
             Cold.
             Not
             long
             after
             the
             the
             Father-Prior
             came
             to
             make
             me
             a
             Compliment
             ,
             and
             left
             a
             Monk
             to
             keep
             me
             Company
             during
             my
             Abode
             in
             that
             Place
             .
             The
             Earliness
             of
             my
             Arrival
             gave
             me
             an
             Opportunity
             to
             visit
             the
             whole
             House
             ,
             after
             I
             had
             enjoy'd
             for
             some
             time
             the
             comfortable
             Warmth
             of
             the
             Fire
             .
             In
             the
             first
             place
             ,
             my
             Father-Companion
             shew'd
             me
             the
             Church
             ,
             which
             is
             long
             and
             narrow
             for
             want
             of
             Room
             :
             the
             Walls
             are
             lin'●
             with
             Wood
             ,
             as
             in
             all
             the
             other
             Apartments
             ,
             by
             reason
             of
             the
             Moisture
             of
             the
             Place
             ,
             that
             not
             only
             spoils
             the
             Paintings
             and
             Ornaments
             ,
             but
             occasion●
             violent
             Distempers
             .
             Afterwards
             we
             visited
             the
             Ha●
             of
             the
             Chapter-General
             ,
             which
             is
             wainscotted
             lik●
             the
             Church
             ,
             and
             adorn'd
             with
             some
             Pictures
             ;
             an●
             among
             the
             rest
             I
             took
             particular
             notice
             of
             a
             ver●
             fine
             Piece
             ,
             representing
             the
             Martyrdom
             of
             certai●
             Fathers
             of
             the
             Order
             in
             England
             .
             From
             thence
             〈◊〉
             went
             to
             the
             King
             's
             and
             Bishop's
             Apartments
             ,
             whe●●
             they
             usually
             receive
             Persons
             of
             great
             Quality
             ;
             fo●
             others
             are
             generally
             entertain'd
             in
             the
             Room
             where
             〈◊〉
             was
             lodg'd
             :
             the
             Furniture
             of
             these
             Apartments
             is
             ne●●
             without
             Magnificence
             .
             The
             Chapel
             of
             the
             Novice●
             is
             ,
             in
             my
             Opinion
             ,
             the
             principal
             Ornament
             of
             th●
             Monastery
             :
             for
             't
             is
             wholly
             built
             of
             Marble
             ,
             ver●
             curiously
             wrought
             with
             Basso-relievo's
             ,
             and
             excelle●●
             Paintings
             ;
             and
             besides
             the
             Altar
             is
             adorn'd
             with
             〈◊〉
             Tabernacle
             of
             Amber
             ,
             which
             is
             a
             valuable
             Piec●
             and
             was
             presented
             to
             'em
             by
             a
             Polander
             .
             Since
             th●
             usual
             Contrivance
             of
             this
             kind
             of
             Structures
             w●●
             
             impracticable
             in
             this
             place
             ,
             instead
             of
             a
             Square
             Cloyster
             ,
             they
             were
             forc'd
             to
             build
             a
             Row
             of
             Cells
             ,
             above
             300
             Paces
             in
             length
             .
             After
             I
             had
             taken
             a
             View
             of
             all
             the
             Apartments
             ,
             my
             Guide
             brought
             me
             back
             to
             my
             Chamber
             ,
             where
             we
             supp'd
             on
             Fish
             ;
             for
             there
             is
             no
             Flesh
             eaten
             in
             the
             House
             ;
             after
             which
             he
             left
             me
             to
             repose
             .
          
           
             Next
             Morning
             about
             Nine
             a-clock
             he
             return'd
             ,
             to
             conduct
             me
             to
             the
             Place
             where
             S.
             Bruno
             perform'd
             his
             Penance
             ,
             which
             is
             not
             accessible
             without
             great
             difficulty
             ,
             being
             on
             the
             Top
             of
             the
             Mountain
             ,
             and
             so
             extremely
             Cold
             ,
             that
             I
             cannot
             imagine
             it
             was
             ever
             inhabited
             by
             Men.
             Nevertheless
             these
             Fathers
             assur'd
             me
             ,
             that
             't
             was
             the
             constant
             Habitation
             of
             that
             Saint
             ,
             with
             his
             Six
             Companions
             ;
             and
             shew'd
             me
             certain
             Caves
             or
             Grotto's
             cut
             out
             of
             the
             Rock
             ,
             where
             they
             spent
             their
             Days
             in
             the
             Exercise
             of
             Religious
             Austerities
             .
             Since
             that
             time
             the
             Monks
             erected
             a
             very
             fine
             Chapel
             ,
             enrich'd
             with
             several
             Pictures
             ;
             among
             which
             that
             of
             the
             Saint
             himself
             is
             particularly
             remarkable
             for
             its
             finish'd
             Beauty
             .
             They
             forget
             not
             to
             make
             Strangers
             take
             notice
             of
             their
             Rock
             ,
             on
             which
             ,
             if
             you
             can
             believe
             their
             Tradition
             ,
             an
             Angel
             appear'd
             to
             him
             every
             Day
             ,
             and
             brought
             him
             his
             necessary
             Food
             .
             But
             it
             seems
             his
             Companions
             were
             not
             so
             much
             in
             love
             with
             Mortification
             ;
             for
             after
             his
             Death
             they
             left
             the
             Hermitage
             ,
             and
             descended
             half
             a
             League
             lower
             ,
             to
             the
             place
             where
             the
             Monastery
             is
             now
             seated
             ,
             with
             the
             permission
             of
             S
             Peter
             himself
             ;
             who
             did
             'em
             the
             favour
             to
             appear
             in
             Person
             on
             that
             Occasion
             ,
             and
             promis'd
             'em
             the
             Virgin
             's
             Assistance
             ,
             on
             condition
             they
             shou'd
             rehearse
             her
             Office
             once
             every
             Day
             :
          
           
             It
             must
             be
             acknowledg'd
             that
             these
             Fathers
             do
             not
             content
             themselves
             with
             a
             bare
             verbal
             Renunciation
             of
             the
             World
             and
             of
             Themselves
             ;
             for
             their
             Practice
             is
             suitable
             to
             the
             Austerity
             of
             their
             Profession
             .
             
             The
             Solitude
             of
             their
             Recess
             is
             certainly
             worthy
             of
             Admiration
             ;
             they
             live
             in
             a
             perpetual
             Confinement
             among
             those
             almost
             inaccessible
             Mountains
             ,
             where
             they
             spend
             their
             Lives
             in
             Prayer
             ,
             Contemplation
             ,
             and
             the
             Severities
             of
             Repentance
             ;
             and
             are
             so
             little
             acquainted
             with
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             World
             ,
             that
             they
             are
             ignorant
             even
             of
             the
             most
             Remarkable
             Occurrences
             that
             are
             transacted
             in
             it
             .
             They
             never
             eat
             Flesh
             ,
             fast
             three
             quarters
             of
             the
             Year
             ,
             submit
             to
             the
             rigour
             of
             Monastical
             Discipline
             twice
             every
             Week
             ,
             wear
             Sackcloth
             ,
             spend
             nine
             Hours
             in
             the
             Church
             every
             Day
             ,
             observe
             a
             perpetual
             Silence
             ,
             and
             undergo
             voluntary
             and
             frequent
             Acts
             of
             Mortification
             :
             So
             that
             if
             those
             Persons
             be
             damn'd
             at
             last
             ,
             I
             may
             venture
             to
             say
             that
             they
             buy
             Hell
             at
             as
             dear
             a
             rate
             as
             the
             Saints
             purchase
             Paradise
             .
             To
             make
             you
             less
             apt
             to
             suspect
             the
             Truth
             of
             this
             Relation
             ,
             't
             will
             be
             sufficient
             to
             tell
             you
             ,
             that
             the
             very
             sight
             of
             the
             place
             inspir'd
             me
             with
             so
             resistless
             a
             Melancholy
             ,
             that
             I
             spent
             the
             whole
             Night
             in
             making
             serious
             Reflexions
             on
             the
             Vanity
             of
             the
             World.
             But
             ,
             after
             all
             ,
             you
             must
             not
             have
             so
             favourable
             an
             Opinion
             of
             the
             force
             of
             this
             Religious
             Charm
             ,
             as
             to
             imagine
             it
             sufficient
             to
             imprint
             an
             indelible
             Character
             of
             Sanctity
             ;
             for
             I
             assure
             you
             ,
             a
             little
             of
             the
             Air
             of
             the
             World
             soon
             dissipated
             all
             my
             additional
             Devotion
             ,
             and
             I
             began
             to
             recover
             my
             wonted
             Gaiety
             by
             degrees
             ,
             as
             I
             approach'd
             Chambery
             .
             The
             Way
             thither
             is
             a
             remarkable
             Monument
             of
             the
             Grandeur
             and
             Magnificence
             of
             
               Charles
               Emmanuel
            
             ,
             Duke
             of
             Savoy
             ,
             by
             whose
             Orders
             it
             was
             cut
             out
             of
             the
             Rock
             ,
             for
             the
             Conveniency
             of
             his
             Trading-Subjects
             ;
             as
             it
             appears
             by
             an
             Inscription
             fasten'd
             to
             the
             Rock
             ,
             and
             accompany'd
             with
             the
             Arms
             of
             that
             Prince
             .
             The
             Road
             for
             a
             considerable
             distance
             from
             the
             Monastery
             ,
             is
             border'd
             with
             Precipices
             ,
             and
             rugged
             Cliffs
             ,
             that
             cast
             forth
             an
             almost
             innumerable
             Multitude
             
             of
             impetuous
             Torrents
             ,
             which
             roll
             along
             with
             a
             horrid
             Dinn
             .
             But
             afterwards
             the
             Traveller
             has
             time
             to
             recover
             his
             Senses
             ,
             when
             at
             the
             end
             of
             this
             frightful
             Passage
             ,
             he
             meets
             with
             a
             pleasant
             Road
             ,
             that
             brings
             him
             insensibly
             to
             Chambery
             .
          
           
             Chambery
             is
             the
             principal
             City
             of
             the
             Dutchy
             of
             Savoy
             ,
             seated
             among
             the
             Mountains
             on
             the
             little
             Rivers
             of
             Orbane
             and
             Esse
             .
             As
             for
             Spiritual
             Affairs
             ,
             't
             is
             under
             the
             Jurisdiction
             of
             the
             Bishop
             of
             Grenoble
             ;
             and
             for
             its
             Temporal
             Government
             ,
             there
             is
             a
             Senate
             ,
             or
             Court
             of
             Justice
             ,
             resembling
             a
             French
             Parliament
             ,
             which
             takes
             Cognizance
             of
             all
             Civil
             and
             Criminal
             Suits
             ;
             and
             its
             Authority
             is
             extended
             over
             the
             whole
             Dutchy
             .
             This
             is
             all
             the
             Account
             I
             can
             give
             you
             of
             Chambery
             ;
             only
             I
             can
             assure
             you
             't
             is
             neither
             large
             ,
             strong
             ,
             nor
             beautiful
             .
             I
             took
             a
             Pass-Port
             of
             the
             President
             ,
             and
             proceeding
             on
             my
             Journey
             ,
             pass'd
             by
             Montmelian
             ,
             about
             two
             Leagues
             distant
             from
             Chambery
             ,
             and
             seated
             on
             the
             Top
             of
             a
             little
             Hill
             ,
             that
             rises
             like
             a
             Sugar-Loaf
             in
             the
             midst
             of
             a
             Valley
             :
             It
             may
             be
             reckon'd
             almost
             impregnable
             ;
             for
             it
             seems
             to
             be
             plac'd
             out
             of
             the
             reach
             of
             all
             other
             Enemies
             but
             Famine
             ,
             and
             want
             of
             Provisions
             :
             But
             the
             Town
             ,
             that
             is
             seated
             below
             ,
             is
             a
             Place
             of
             no
             Defence
             ,
             and
             much
             less
             considerable
             than
             a
             Thousand
             Villages
             in
             
               France
               .
               S.
               John
               de
               Morienne
               ,
            
             where
             I
             arriv'd
             the
             next
             Day
             ,
             deserves
             no
             better
             Character
             ,
             tho'
             it
             be
             honour'd
             with
             a
             Bishop's
             See.
             Here
             I
             took
             another
             Pass-Port
             of
             the
             great
             Vicar
             ,
             which
             I
             may
             reckon
             cheap
             ,
             tho'
             it
             cost
             me
             very
             dear
             ;
             for
             it
             brought
             me
             safe
             to
             this
             place
             ,
             without
             being
             at
             the
             Charge
             of
             renewing
             it
             .
          
           
             Two
             Days
             after
             I
             arriv'd
             at
             the
             Village
             of
             Laneburg
             ,
             seated
             directly
             at
             the
             Foot
             of
             Mount
             Cennis
             .
             This
             remarkable
             Hill
             is
             famous
             both
             for
             its
             height
             ,
             in
             which
             respect
             it
             exceeds
             the
             tallest
             Mountains
             of
             the
             Alps
             ;
             and
             for
             a
             Bottomless
             Lake
             ,
             situated
             in
             
             the
             middle
             of
             its
             Surface
             .
             I
             ascended
             a
             League
             and
             a
             half
             before
             I
             arriv'd
             at
             the
             Lake
             ;
             after
             which
             I
             found
             a
             Plain
             ;
             extending
             about
             a
             large
             League
             ;
             and
             in
             that
             an
             Inn
             ,
             where
             I
             was
             accommodated
             with
             the
             most
             desirable
             Entertainment
             in
             these
             Mountains
             ,
             I
             mean
             the
             warmth
             of
             a
             good
             Fire
             ;
             for
             the
             Way
             is
             lin'd
             on
             both
             sides
             with
             vast
             Hills
             of
             Snow
             ;
             and
             the
             Wind
             is
             so
             cold
             and
             piercing
             ,
             that
             the
             poor
             Traveller
             is
             hardly
             able
             to
             support
             himself
             on
             his
             numm'd
             Limbs
             .
             After
             I
             had
             rested
             an
             Hour
             ,
             I
             mounted
             my
             Mule
             ,
             for
             there
             are
             no
             other
             Beasts
             of
             Carriage
             able
             to
             pass
             the
             Mountain
             ;
             and
             found
             the
             Descent
             on
             the
             other
             side
             as
             troublesome
             and
             uneasie
             as
             the
             Ascent
             ,
             which
             I
             have
             already
             describ'd
             .
          
           
             The
             same
             Evening
             I
             arriv'd
             at
             Suza
             ,
             a
             little
             City
             in
             the
             Frontiers
             of
             Piedmont
             ,
             seated
             at
             the
             Foot
             of
             a
             Mountain
             ,
             and
             separated
             from
             Turin
             by
             a
             vast
             and
             fertil
             Plain
             :
             It
             has
             the
             Advantage
             of
             a
             pure
             and
             healthy
             Air
             ,
             pleasant
             Meadows
             ,
             good
             Wine
             ,
             and
             beautiful
             Houses
             .
             The
             warmth
             of
             the
             Climate
             exceeds
             that
             of
             France
             ,
             but
             the
             Heat
             is
             not
             so
             intollerable
             as
             at
             Rome
             ;
             so
             that
             the
             Traveller
             finds
             as
             great
             an
             Alteration
             at
             his
             Descent
             from
             the
             Mountains
             of
             Savoy
             ,
             as
             if
             he
             were
             transported
             in
             an
             Instant
             from
             Norway
             to
             Italy
             ;
             and
             is
             agreeably
             ravish'd
             at
             the
             sudden
             Change
             of
             a
             stormy
             Winter
             into
             a
             Mild
             and
             Temperate
             Spring
             .
          
           
             The
             City
             of
             Turin
             is
             seated
             at
             the
             other
             end
             of
             this
             charming
             Plain
             ,
             between
             the
             Po
             and
             the
             Loire
             ,
             which
             furnish
             it
             abundantly
             with
             all
             the
             Necessaries
             and
             Conveniences
             of
             Life
             .
             'T
             is
             enclos'd
             with
             strong
             Walls
             ,
             and
             surrounded
             with
             broad
             ,
             deep
             ,
             and
             well-lin'd
             Ditches
             .
             The
             Cittadel
             is
             a
             Master-piece
             of
             Fortification
             ;
             for
             the
             Duke
             has
             spar'd
             no
             Cost
             to
             make
             it
             Strong
             and
             Magnificent
             ;
             and
             if
             the
             Goodness
             of
             the
             Soil
             had
             been
             suitable
             to
             the
             Care
             he
             has
             taken
             to
             improve
             it
             ,
             I
             'm
             confident
             
             't
             wou'd
             have
             been
             absolutely
             impregnable
             .
             The
             Town
             is
             all
             glorious
             within
             ,
             and
             adorn'd
             with
             a
             Thousand
             Beauties
             :
             The
             Publick
             Places
             are
             spacious
             ,
             all
             newly
             built
             with
             an
             admirable
             Regularity
             :
             The
             Streets
             are
             broad
             ,
             and
             streight
             as
             a
             Line
             :
             The
             noblest
             improvements
             of
             Architecture
             are
             magnificently
             display'd
             in
             the
             Palaces
             ;
             the
             Gilding
             ,
             Paintings
             ,
             and
             other
             Ornaments
             of
             the
             Churches
             are
             suitable
             to
             the
             Beauty
             of
             the
             Buildings
             ;
             the
             Shops
             are
             full
             of
             all
             sorts
             of
             rich
             and
             fine
             Stuffs
             ;
             and
             the
             Academies
             for
             riding
             the
             Great
             Horse
             ,
             Dancing
             ,
             and
             Martial
             Exercises
             ,
             deserve
             a
             particular
             Observation
             .
             And
             to
             compleat
             the
             Glories
             of
             the
             Place
             ,
             there
             is
             a
             Court
             ,
             that
             ,
             notwithstanding
             its
             smallness
             ,
             may
             be
             justly
             reckon'd
             the
             Seat
             of
             Gallantry
             and
             Politeness
             ;
             'T
             is
             compos'd
             of
             a
             Society
             of
             both
             Sexes
             ,
             that
             are
             equally
             Admirable
             ;
             the
             Ladies
             for
             their
             resistless
             Charms
             ;
             and
             the
             Men
             for
             a
             Nobleness
             of
             Mien
             ,
             and
             Magnificence
             of
             Garb
             ,
             that
             seems
             peculiar
             to
             themselves
             .
          
           
             Thus
             ,
             Sir
             ,
             I
             have
             endeavour'd
             to
             give
             you
             in
             few
             Words
             ,
             a
             just
             Idea
             of
             this
             Charming
             City
             ;
             for
             it
             wou'd
             be
             an
             endless
             Labour
             to
             undertake
             the
             particular
             Description
             of
             every
             fine
             Church
             ,
             and
             beautiful
             Palace
             ,
             in
             a
             place
             where
             such
             Structures
             are
             no
             Rarities
             .
             All
             the
             Ornaments
             of
             this
             City
             are
             Modern
             ;
             at
             least
             I
             cou'd
             not
             ,
             upon
             the
             strictest
             Enquiry
             ,
             discover
             any
             other
             Antiquities
             than
             those
             in
             the
             Duke's
             Gallery
             ,
             which
             is
             full
             of
             all
             sorts
             of
             fine
             Paintings
             ,
             rare
             Munuscripts
             ,
             Medals
             ,
             Vases
             ,
             and
             other
             Curiosities
             of
             that
             Nature
             .
             The
             Gate
             of
             the
             Palace
             is
             defended
             with
             two
             Culverins
             ,
             admirable
             for
             their
             Largeness
             and
             Workmanship
             ;
             and
             a
             Mortar
             of
             a
             prodigious
             bigness
             .
             The
             Metropolitan
             Church
             is
             dedicated
             to
             S.
             John
             ,
             and
             exceeds
             all
             the
             rest
             in
             Magnificence
             :
             'T
             is
             a
             stately
             Dome
             ,
             enrich'd
             on
             the
             Inside
             with
             Paintings
             ,
             of
             a
             finish'd
             Regularity
             and
             Fineness
             :
             
             And
             to
             all
             the
             other
             Ornaments
             ,
             there
             was
             lately
             added
             a
             Chapel
             of
             a
             surprizing
             Beauty
             and
             Richness
             .
             This
             admirable
             Structure
             is
             of
             an
             excellent
             Architecture
             ,
             and
             seems
             in
             a
             manner
             to
             be
             overlaid
             with
             a
             glittering
             Cover
             of
             Gold
             and
             Silver
             :
             'T
             was
             built
             on
             purpose
             for
             the
             
               Holy
               Handkerchief
            
             ,
             which
             is
             kept
             there
             at
             present
             .
             You
             cannot
             imagine
             with
             what
             Devotion
             the
             People
             of
             this
             Place
             adorn
             that
             Relick
             ;
             which
             is
             a
             little
             Sheet
             ,
             with
             the
             Image
             of
             our
             Saviour
             painted
             very
             imperfectly
             in
             the
             middle
             ,
             of
             a
             yellowish
             Colour
             .
             I
             need
             not
             tell
             you
             that
             this
             is
             commonly
             pretended
             to
             be
             the
             same
             Cloth
             in
             which
             Christ's
             Face
             was
             wrapt
             at
             his
             Burial
             ,
             and
             that
             his
             Image
             was
             miraculously
             stamp'd
             upon
             it
             :
             But
             there
             are
             so
             many
             other
             Pretenders
             to
             the
             same
             Dignity
             ,
             that
             I
             will
             not
             undertake
             to
             decide
             so
             doubtful
             a
             Controversie
             .
          
           
             According
             to
             all
             Appearance
             ,
             the
             Duke
             of
             Sav●y
             will
             not
             remain
             long
             in
             the
             King's
             Interests
             ;
             for
             he
             has
             already
             given
             out
             Commissions
             for
             the
             levying
             of
             two
             Regiments
             of
             Foot
             ,
             and
             one
             of
             Dragoons
             ,
             with
             an
             express
             Order
             ,
             not
             to
             receive
             a
             Frenchman
             into
             'em
             ;
             and
             besides
             ,
             't
             is
             certain
             that
             he
             did
             not
             oppose
             the
             Passage
             of
             the
             Barbets
             ,
             as
             he
             might
             have
             easily
             done
             :
             For
             all
             the
             Motions
             of
             his
             Troops
             ,
             were
             only
             in
             Order
             to
             their
             Encampment
             at
             Verecil
             ;
             and
             I
             'm
             persuaded
             the
             only
             reason
             why
             he
             suffer'd
             the
             French
             to
             act
             on
             that
             Occasion
             ,
             was
             because
             he
             cou'd
             not
             hinder
             '
             em
             .
          
           
             I
             have
             met
             with
             another
             Obstacle
             ,
             that
             will
             retard
             my
             Journey
             to
             Isaly
             for
             some
             time
             ;
             for
             the
             whole
             Country
             is
             full
             of
             Spaniards
             ,
             who
             Infest
             all
             the
             Roads
             ,
             and
             commit
             a
             Thousand
             Robberies
             .
             The
             People
             here
             are
             daily
             alarm'd
             with
             fresh
             Accounts
             of
             these
             Disorders
             ;
             so
             that
             I
             have
             been
             at
             last
             prevail'd
             with
             to
             alter
             my
             Resolution
             ,
             and
             
             am
             going
             to
             take
             Journey
             for
             Marseilles
             ,
             where
             I
             'm
             certainly
             inform'd
             I
             may
             find
             daily
             Opportunities
             of
             embarking
             for
             Genoa
             or
             Leghorn
             .
          
           
             I
             am
             ,
             
               SIR
               ,
            
             
               Your
               &c.
               
            
             
               Turin
               ,
               
                 Nov.
                 1689.
                 
              
            
          
        
         
           
             LETTER
             VI.
             
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
          
           
             DUring
             my
             short
             stay
             at
             Turin
             after
             the
             Wriing
             of
             my
             last
             Letter
             ,
             I
             had
             not
             the
             Opportunity
             of
             making
             any
             remarkable
             Observation
             that
             I
             had
             not
             taken
             notice
             of
             before
             ;
             and
             therefore
             all
             that
             I
             shall
             add
             to
             the
             Account
             I
             gave
             you
             of
             that
             City
             ,
             is
             ,
             that
             the
             People
             have
             an
             extraordinary
             Love
             to
             their
             Sovereign
             .
             You
             'll
             perhaps
             tell
             me
             ,
             that
             this
             is
             not
             a
             very
             uncommon
             Observation
             ,
             since
             't
             is
             natural
             for
             all
             Men
             to
             respect
             their
             Governours
             :
             But
             I
             hope
             you
             'll
             acknowledge
             ,
             that
             there
             are
             various
             Degrees
             in
             this
             kind
             of
             Affection
             ,
             as
             well
             as
             in
             all
             others
             ;
             and
             that
             I
             cannot
             be
             accus'd
             of
             Trifling
             ,
             when
             I
             assure
             you
             ,
             that
             never
             was
             the
             Breast
             of
             any
             Subject
             fill'd
             with
             a
             more
             ardent
             and
             respectful
             Love
             to
             his
             Prince
             ,
             than
             that
             which
             the
             Inhabitants
             of
             Piedmont
             have
             for
             the
             Duke
             of
             Savoy
             .
             Nor
             is
             their
             Zeal
             for
             his
             Interest
             ,
             and
             Affection
             to
             his
             Person
             ,
             the
             Effect
             of
             a
             blind
             Inclination
             :
             For
             't
             is
             no
             wonder
             that
             those
             who
             owe
             their
             Happiness
             to
             the
             mild
             Influences
             of
             his
             Government
             are
             charm'd
             with
             the
             Greatness
             of
             his
             Courage
             and
             
             Magnamity
             ,
             and
             a
             Thousand
             other
             rare
             Perfections
             ,
             of
             which
             he
             is
             certainly
             Master
             in
             a
             very
             eminent
             Degree
             .
          
           
             The
             Dutchess
             is
             an
             illustrious
             Example
             of
             Conjugal
             Affection
             :
             't
             is
             true
             ,
             she
             is
             not
             unmindful
             of
             the
             Blood
             that
             fills
             her
             Veins
             ;
             nor
             will
             ever
             forget
             that
             Natural
             Inclination
             to
             the
             place
             of
             her
             Nativity
             ,
             that
             obliges
             her
             to
             be
             the
             declar'd
             Protectress
             of
             the
             French
             :
             But
             her
             Love
             to
             her
             Country
             is
             not
             strong
             enough
             to
             lessen
             that
             which
             she
             owes
             to
             her
             Lord
             ,
             and
             puts
             not
             the
             least
             Byass
             on
             her
             Mind
             when
             it
             comes
             in
             Competition
             with
             his
             Interest
             .
          
           
             I
             forgot
             to
             tell
             you
             in
             my
             last
             ,
             that
             it
             Rains
             almost
             perpetually
             at
             Turin
             ;
             and
             ,
             (
             whatever
             you
             may
             think
             on
             't
             )
             this
             is
             a
             very
             important
             Remark
             for
             Persons
             of
             my
             Humour
             and
             Fortune
             .
             I
             cannot
             forbear
             complaining
             of
             the
             Unkindness
             of
             my
             Destiny
             ,
             that
             exposes
             me
             to
             be
             drench'd
             with
             every
             Shower
             for
             want
             of
             a
             Coach
             ,
             and
             even
             envying
             the
             Happiness
             of
             those
             who
             are
             better
             provided
             ;
             for
             ,
             if
             God
             had
             thought
             fit
             to
             intrust
             me
             with
             the
             Management
             of
             10000
             Livres
             a
             Year
             ,
             I
             wou'd
             not
             have
             deny'd
             my self
             the
             Pleasure
             of
             Travelling
             in
             a
             portable
             House
             .
          
           
             From
             Turin
             I
             came
             in
             seven
             Hours
             to
             Pignerol
             .
             The
             Town
             is
             very
             well
             fortify'd
             ;
             and
             the
             Cittadel
             ,
             as
             now
             it
             stands
             ,
             after
             so
             many
             Additions
             and
             Alterations
             ,
             may
             be
             justly
             reckon'd
             one
             of
             the
             strongest
             places
             in
             his
             Majesty's
             Possession
             ,
             and
             a
             terrible
             Thorn
             in
             the
             Duke
             of
             
             Savoy's
             Foot
             ,
             which
             may
             one
             Day
             make
             him
             halt
             ,
             if
             he
             do
             not
             take
             care
             to
             pluck
             it
             out
             .
             Here
             the
             unfortunate
             Monsieur
             Fouquet
             spent
             the
             last
             part
             of
             his
             Life
             ,
             and
             (
             as
             't
             is
             generally
             believ'd
             )
             compos'd
             that
             admirable
             Treatise
             ,
             entitul'd
             ,
             
               The
               Counsels
               of
               Wisdom
            
             .
             If
             that
             Report
             be
             true
             ,
             even
             his
             Enemies
             must
             acknowledge
             ,
             that
             the
             Confinement
             of
             his
             Body
             disturb'd
             
             not
             the
             Freedom
             and
             Tranquillity
             of
             his
             Mind
             ,
             and
             that
             he
             was
             entirely
             disengag'd
             from
             the
             Allurements
             of
             this
             World.
             Nevertheless
             ,
             I
             'm
             certainly
             inform'd
             by
             Persons
             of
             unsuspected
             Credit
             ,
             that
             he
             attempted
             to
             make
             his
             Escape
             by
             cutting
             the
             Sheets
             of
             his
             Bed
             ;
             and
             that
             he
             was
             afterwards
             put
             under
             a
             Guard
             of
             four
             Centinels
             instead
             of
             one
             ,
             as
             well
             as
             the
             Count
             
               de
               Lausun
            
             ,
             who
             about
             four
             Years
             ago
             had
             little
             reason
             to
             flatter
             himself
             with
             the
             hopes
             of
             a
             Release
             .
             The
             Marquess
             d'Herville
             ,
             the
             present
             Governour
             of
             Pignerol
             ,
             is
             a
             Man
             of
             a
             large
             and
             comely
             Stature
             ,
             brave
             ,
             and
             well
             acquainted
             with
             the
             Duties
             of
             his
             Office.
             
          
           
             Leaving
             Pignerol
             I
             proceeded
             on
             my
             Journey
             thro'
             the
             long
             Valley
             of
             Sestriere
             to
             Guillestre
             ,
             and
             from
             thence
             by
             the
             Way
             of
             Briançon
             to
             Ambrun
             ,
             a
             little
             City
             on
             the
             Frontiers
             of
             Dauphiné
             ,
             inaccessible
             on
             one
             side
             ,
             by
             reason
             of
             the
             Steepness
             of
             the
             Rock
             on
             which
             't
             is
             built
             ,
             but
             only
             defended
             on
             the
             other
             with
             a
             weak
             and
             single
             Wall.
             The
             Archbishoprick
             of
             this
             Place
             is
             at
             present
             possess'd
             by
             
               Monsieur
               de
               Genlis
            
             ,
             Nephew
             to
             the
             Marquess
             
               de
               Genlis
            
             ,
             Lieutenant-General
             of
             his
             Majesty's
             Forces
             ,
             and
             Captain-Lieutenant
             of
             the
             Duke
             of
             
             Anjou's
             Company
             of
             Geudarms
             .
             This
             Prelate
             signaliz'd
             his
             Courage
             and
             Zeal
             in
             the
             late
             Campaign
             against
             the
             Vaudois
             ;
             for
             he
             remain'd
             in
             the
             Camp
             all
             the
             Summer
             ,
             and
             was
             personally
             engag'd
             in
             the
             Battel
             of
             Salbertrand
             :
             And
             this
             unusual
             Bravery
             in
             a
             Man
             of
             his
             Character
             ,
             has
             procur'd
             him
             so
             much
             Honour
             and
             Authority
             in
             the
             Country
             ,
             that
             when
             I
             produc'd
             his
             Pass-Port
             at
             Gap
             ,
             the
             Major
             ,
             who
             commanded
             in
             the
             Place
             ,
             told
             me
             that
             if
             it
             had
             been
             sign'd
             by
             the
             King
             himself
             it
             wou'd
             not
             have
             been
             so
             much
             respected
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             he
             gave
             me
             a
             very
             favourable
             Character
             ,
             for
             he
             was
             not
             ignorant
             that
             I
             had
             the
             Honour
             to
             be
             very
             well
             known
             to
             his
             Uncle
             :
             and
             't
             was
             also
             on
             that
             Score
             
             that
             he
             kept
             me
             two
             days
             at
             Ambrun
             ,
             and
             entertain'd
             me
             with
             a
             great
             deal
             of
             Kindness
             .
          
           
             You
             must
             give
             me
             leave
             to
             detain
             you
             a
             while
             with
             an
             Account
             of
             my
             fatiguing
             Passage
             over
             Mount
             Genevre
             :
             for
             tho'
             it
             be
             neither
             so
             large
             nor
             so
             high
             as
             Cenis
             ,
             the
             crossing
             of
             that
             Mountain
             put
             me
             to
             more
             Trouble
             and
             Pain
             than
             ever
             I
             suffer'd
             in
             any
             one
             day
             of
             my
             Life
             .
             I
             was
             mounted
             on
             a
             Horse
             that
             was
             not
             worth
             Six-pence
             ,
             which
             I
             hir'd
             of
             a
             Peasant
             at
             Briançon
             ,
             and
             accompany'd
             with
             a
             Guide
             who
             was
             utterly
             unacquainted
             with
             the
             Roads
             ,
             and
             carry'd
             me
             quite
             out
             of
             the
             Way
             .
             But
             that
             was
             not
             my
             greatest
             Misfortune
             ,
             for
             my
             Horse
             stuck
             so
             fast
             in
             the
             Snow
             ,
             which
             reach'd
             above
             his
             Belly
             ,
             that
             I
             cou'd
             not
             make
             him
             go
             one
             Step
             farther
             ,
             and
             was
             at
             last
             forc'd
             to
             alight
             and
             endeavour
             to
             open
             a
             Passage
             for
             him
             to
             the
             High-way
             ;
             for
             I
             perceiv'd
             certain
             Sticks
             at
             a
             considerable
             distance
             ,
             which
             (
             I
             knew
             )
             were
             set
             up
             as
             Marks
             to
             keep
             Travellers
             from
             wandring
             out
             of
             the
             Road.
             But
             I
             quickly
             found
             my
             Design
             impracticable
             ,
             for
             both
             I
             and
             my
             Horse
             were
             so
             benumn'd
             with
             the
             Cold
             ,
             that
             we
             cou'd
             hardly
             stir
             a
             Leg
             ;
             and
             besides
             the
             Wind
             drove
             the
             Snow
             upon
             me
             faster
             than
             I
             cou'd
             rake
             it
             away
             :
             so
             that
             I
             was
             beginning
             to
             give
             over
             my
             useless
             Labour
             ,
             and
             to
             reflect
             in
             good
             earnest
             on
             a
             Death
             that
             seem'd
             unavoidable
             ,
             when
             I
             discover'd
             certain
             black
             Spots
             ,
             that
             gave
             me
             some
             hope
             of
             finding
             a
             Village
             not
             far
             the
             place
             where
             I
             thought
             to
             have
             ended
             my
             days
             .
             Immediately
             I
             left
             my
             Guide
             ,
             Horse
             and
             Baggage
             ,
             and
             ,
             feeble
             as
             I
             was
             ,
             ventur'd
             into
             the
             midst
             of
             the
             Snow
             ,
             in
             quest
             of
             those
             Houses
             ,
             where
             at
             last
             ,
             by
             God's
             Assistance
             ,
             I
             arriv'd
             ,
             and
             was
             receiv'd
             with
             all
             imaginable
             Marks
             of
             Kindness
             by
             those
             Hospitable
             Wretches
             ,
             who
             brought
             me
             into
             one
             of
             their
             Hutts
             ,
             which
             I
             found
             stuff'd
             with
             Oxen
             ,
             Cows
             ,
             Sheep
             ,
             Cats
             ,
             Dogs
             ,
             and
             (
             the
             most
             miserable
             Part
             of
             the
             Family
             )
             Men
             and
             Women
             .
             Nevertheless
             
             I
             assure
             you
             that
             the
             Sight
             of
             this
             Place
             ,
             which
             perhaps
             at
             another
             time
             wou'd
             have
             turn'd
             my
             Stomach
             ,
             seem'd
             more
             charming
             to
             me
             in
             that
             Extremity
             ,
             than
             the
             most
             glorious
             Palace
             that
             ever
             I
             beheld
             :
             I
             fansi'd
             my self
             restor'd
             from
             Death
             to
             Life
             assoon
             as
             I
             enter'd
             that
             Resemblance
             of
             a
             Hog's
             Stie
             ,
             which
             was
             as
             hot
             as
             a
             Stove
             .
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             I
             begg'd
             some
             of
             my
             kind
             Hosts
             to
             compleat
             their
             Charity
             ,
             by
             going
             to
             relieve
             the
             Poor
             Creature
             ,
             whom
             I
             had
             left
             with
             my
             Horse
             in
             the
             midst
             of
             the
             Snow
             :
             and
             their
             Assistance
             came
             very
             seasonably
             ,
             for
             he
             had
             certainly
             perish'd
             if
             they
             had
             stay'd
             half
             a
             quarter
             of
             an
             hour
             longer
             .
             After
             I
             had
             the
             Satisfaction
             of
             seeing
             him
             alive
             ,
             I
             stretch'd
             my
             weary'd
             Body
             on
             a
             Heap
             of
             Straw
             ,
             where
             I
             enjoy'd
             the
             most
             comfortable
             Night's
             Rest
             that
             ever
             I
             had
             in
             my
             Life
             .
             The
             next
             day
             I
             feasted
             on
             a
             Piece
             of
             Bread
             exactly
             of
             the
             Colour
             of
             Soot
             ,
             and
             a
             little
             dry
             and
             salt
             Cheese
             ;
             and
             was
             in
             the
             mean
             time
             entertain'd
             with
             an
             Account
             of
             their
             Way
             of
             Living
             in
             this
             Place
             .
             They
             told
             me
             that
             they
             were
             imprison'd
             in
             their
             dismal
             Habitations
             ,
             and
             almost
             bury'd
             in
             the
             Snow
             for
             the
             Space
             of
             seven
             Months
             ,
             every
             Year
             ;
             during
             which
             time
             they
             linger
             out
             a
             miserable
             Life
             in
             the
             midst
             of
             Stench
             and
             Nastiness
             .
          
           
             After
             my
             Arrival
             at
             Gap
             ,
             I
             sent
             back
             my
             Horse
             ,
             and
             hir'd
             another
             ,
             which
             I
             found
             there
             by
             chance
             ,
             to
             Sisteron
             .
             But
             to
             compleat
             the
             Misfortunes
             of
             my
             disastrous
             Journey
             ,
             as
             I
             was
             crossing
             a
             very
             rapid
             Torrent
             about
             a
             League
             from
             the
             last
             of
             these
             Places
             ,
             having
             occasion
             to
             blow
             my
             Nose
             ,
             I
             pull'd
             my
             Handkerchief
             out
             of
             my
             Pocket
             ,
             and
             with
             that
             the
             Box
             with
             my
             Pass-Ports
             ,
             which
             fell
             into
             the
             Stream
             ,
             and
             was
             in
             an
             instant
             carry'd
             quite
             out
             of
             my
             Sight
             .
             If
             my
             Purse
             with
             all
             the
             Money
             I
             was
             Master
             of
             ,
             had
             been
             irrecoverably
             lost
             ,
             I
             cou'd
             not
             have
             been
             more
             sensibly
             vex'd
             :
             for
             when
             I
             consider'd
             with
             what
             Rigour
             I
             had
             been
             every
             where
             examin'd
             
             notwithstanding
             my
             Pass-Ports
             ,
             I
             concluded
             that
             Imprisonment
             was
             the
             mildest
             Treatment
             I
             cou'd
             expect
             to
             receive
             at
             Sisteron
             .
             These
             Reflexions
             kept
             me
             for
             some
             time
             in
             an
             Irresolution
             ,
             whether
             I
             shou'd
             go
             forwards
             ;
             but
             since
             the
             Danger
             was
             equal
             either
             Way
             ,
             I
             resolv'd
             to
             proceed
             on
             my
             Journey
             ,
             tho'
             I
             shou'd
             be
             forc'd
             to
             take
             up
             my
             Lodging
             in
             a
             Gaol
             .
             I
             found
             ,
             to
             my
             Cost
             ,
             the
             Accomplishment
             of
             those
             Melancholick
             Presages
             ;
             for
             the
             Governour
             laugh'd
             at
             my
             Excuses
             ,
             and
             told
             me
             that
             I
             must
             needs
             have
             a
             very
             mean
             Opinion
             of
             his
             Judgment
             ,
             if
             I
             thought
             to
             put
             him
             off
             with
             such
             an
             ill-contriv'd
             Story
             .
             
               Confess
               the
               Truth
            
             ,
             added
             he
             ,
             
               you
               are
               one
               of
               the
            
             Barbets
             ,
             
               and
               are
               going
               to
            
             Languedoc
             and
             Dauphiné
             ,
             
               to
               persuade
               the
               new
               Converts
               in
               those
               Provinces
               to
               join
               with
               your
               Party
               :
            
             I
             answer'd
             ,
             That
             I
             was
             too
             Loyal
             a
             Subject
             to
             his
             Majesty
             ,
             and
             too
             zealous
             a
             Catholick
             to
             undertake
             such
             a
             Commission
             ;
             that
             I
             was
             a
             meer
             Stranger
             to
             the
             Barbets
             ;
             that
             I
             came
             from
             Turin
             ,
             and
             was
             going
             to
             
               Rome
               .
               What
               ,
               Sir
            
             ,
             reply'd
             he
             ,
             
               you
               came
               from
            
             Turin
             ?
             
               Morbleau
               ,
               you
               came
               with
               the
            
             Barbets
             :
             
               I
               'm
               better
               acquainted
               with
               your
               Tricks
               than
               you
               imagine
               ;
               I
               say
               you
               did
               come
               with
               'em
               ,
               and
               I
               'll
               shew
               you
               presently
               some
               of
               your
               own
               Friends
               ,
               who
               will
               maintain
               it
               to
               your
               Face
               .
            
             Immediately
             he
             order'd
             two
             of
             those
             unhappy
             Wretches
             that
             were
             fall'n
             into
             his
             Hands
             ,
             to
             be
             brought
             before
             him
             ,
             and
             assoon
             as
             they
             appear'd
             ,
             
               Here
               is
               one
               of
               your
               Officers
               ,
            
             said
             he
             to
             'em
             ,
             
               whom
               we
               have
               caught
               straggling
               .
               He
               wou'd
               have
               us
               believe
               that
               he
               has
               deserted
               your
               Party
               ,
               and
               left
               you
               with
               a
               Design
               to
               submit
               to
               the
               King
               ;
               but
               we
               have
               Reason
               to
               suspect
               his
               Sincerity
               .
               Confess
               the
               Truth
               ingenuously
               ,
               and
               declare
               all
               that
               you
               know
               concerning
               him
               ,
               as
               the
               only
               way
               you
               can
               take
               to
               obtain
               the
               King's
               Mercy
               .
            
             If
             I
             had
             been
             guilty
             of
             entertaining
             a
             Correspondence
             with
             these
             People
             ,
             I
             wou'd
             have
             immediately
             said
             something
             to
             undeceive
             'em
             ,
             and
             prevent
             their
             biting
             the
             Hook
             :
             but
             since
             I
             was
             altogether
             
             unacquainted
             with
             'em
             ,
             I
             was
             glad
             of
             that
             Occasion
             to
             justifie
             my
             Innocency
             ,
             and
             expected
             their
             Answer
             with
             a
             Silence
             that
             confuted
             all
             my
             Accusers
             :
             and
             besides
             ,
             the
             Prisoners
             affirm'd
             that
             they
             did
             not
             know
             me
             .
             Then
             the
             Governour
             began
             to
             examine
             me
             more
             particularly
             ,
             and
             with
             less
             Prejudice
             than
             before
             :
             he
             ask'd
             me
             which
             way
             I
             came
             ,
             where
             I
             receiv'd
             Pass-Ports
             ,
             and
             who
             had
             any
             Knowledge
             of
             me
             .
             In
             answer
             to
             the
             last
             Question
             ,
             having
             nam'd
             several
             Persons
             ,
             and
             among
             the
             rest
             the
             Archbishop
             of
             Ambrun
             ,
             the
             Governour
             assur'd
             me
             ,
             that
             I
             might
             conclude
             my self
             out
             of
             Danger
             ,
             if
             that
             Prelate
             wou'd
             undertake
             to
             answer
             for
             me
             ;
             and
             I
             reply'd
             ,
             that
             I
             hop'd
             he
             wou'd
             not
             deny
             me
             his
             Testimony
             .
             Then
             the
             Governour
             desir
             d
             me
             to
             write
             to
             him
             ,
             telling
             me
             that
             he
             wou'd
             accompany
             my
             Letter
             with
             another
             ,
             and
             that
             in
             the
             mean
             time
             I
             shou'd
             be
             confin'd
             to
             the
             Cittadel
             ,
             where
             I
             was
             lodg'd
             with
             two
             Lieutenants
             ,
             from
             whom
             and
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             Officers
             ,
             I
             receiv'd
             all
             imaginable
             Marks
             of
             .
             Civility
             .
             Four
             days
             after
             ,
             the
             Governour
             having
             receiv'd
             a
             very
             favourable
             Answer
             from
             the
             Archbishop
             of
             Ambrun
             ,
             sent
             for
             me
             ,
             and
             told
             me
             that
             I
             was
             at
             Liberty
             to
             depart
             when
             I
             pleas'd
             .
             I
             return'd
             him
             my
             very
             humble
             Thanks
             for
             the
             Justice
             he
             did
             me
             ,
             and
             intreated
             him
             to
             grant
             me
             a
             Pass-Port
             ,
             since
             without
             that
             I
             shou'd
             certainly
             be
             stopp'd
             ,
             and
             perhaps
             also
             abus'd
             by
             the
             first
             
               Corps
               de
               Garde
            
             of
             Peasants
             on
             the
             Road.
             But
             he
             assur'd
             me
             that
             there
             was
             no
             need
             of
             a
             Pass-Port
             ,
             and
             that
             all
             the
             Roads
             were
             free
             ,
             from
             Sisteron
             to
             Marseilles
             .
          
           
             Since
             I
             have
             had
             occasion
             to
             mention
             the
             Barbets
             so
             often
             ,
             I
             believe
             it
             will
             not
             be
             an
             unwelcome
             Gratification
             of
             your
             Curiosity
             ,
             to
             give
             you
             an
             Account
             of
             the
             Original
             of
             that
             Name
             ,
             which
             the
             Piedmontois
             and
             Savoyards
             give
             to
             the
             Protestants
             that
             inhabit
             their
             Valleys
             .
             The
             Word
             Barbe
             in
             their
             Language
             signifies
             Uncle
             ;
             and
             besides
             ,
             an
             Ancient
             
             and
             
               Venerable
               Person
            
             ;
             so
             that
             in
             several
             Places
             't
             is
             the
             usual
             Custom
             to
             express
             a
             more
             than
             ordinary
             Respect
             to
             a
             Person
             by
             prefixing
             this
             Word
             before
             his
             proper
             Name
             ,
             as
             
               Barbe
               Peter
               ,
               Barbe
               John
               ,
               &c.
               
            
             And
             even
             by
             degrees
             it
             grew
             in
             such
             Esteem
             among
             'em
             ,
             that
             they
             thought
             they
             cou'd
             not
             give
             a
             more
             honourable
             Title
             to
             their
             Ministers
             ,
             whom
             for
             that
             Reason
             they
             call'd
             
               Barbe
               du
               Plessis
               ,
               Barbe
               du
               Menil
               ,
               &c.
               
            
             From
             hence
             the
             Protestants
             in
             this
             Country
             were
             nick-nam'd
             Barbets
             ,
             as
             in
             France
             they
             are
             call'd
             Hugonots
             ,
             and
             in
             
               Flanders
               ,
               Gueux
            
             .
          
           
             Sisteron
             is
             seated
             on
             the
             Durance
             ,
             and
             is
             so
             inconsiderable
             a
             Town
             ,
             that
             't
             wou'd
             be
             an
             useless
             Waste
             of
             Time
             and
             Paper
             to
             undertake
             the
             Description
             of
             it
             .
             The
             Cittadel
             stands
             on
             a
             very
             steep
             Mountain
             ,
             and
             is
             consequently
             strong
             ,
             but
             so
             small
             that
             't
             is
             scarce
             capable
             of
             Lodging
             three
             hundred
             Soldiers
             .
          
           
             The
             Marquess
             
               de
               Vallevoir
            
             ,
             the
             present
             Governour
             of
             this
             Place
             ,
             is
             an
             old
             Officer
             ,
             very
             well
             known
             ,
             and
             much
             esteem'd
             by
             the
             Soldiers
             .
             The
             double
             Meaning
             of
             his
             Name
             had
             once
             almost
             cost
             him
             his
             Life
             ;
             for
             as
             he
             was
             walking
             at
             Night
             on
             the
             Ramparts
             of
             a
             Town
             of
             which
             he
             was
             Governour
             ,
             a
             new
             Soldier
             who
             was
             then
             on
             the
             Watch
             ,
             not
             knowing
             him
             ,
             saluted
             him
             with
             the
             usual
             Question
             on
             such
             Occasions
             ,
             
               Qui
               va
               là
               ,
               Who
               comes
               there
               ?
            
             to
             which
             he
             answer'd
             ,
             Vallevoir
             .
             But
             the
             Centinel
             imagining
             he
             had
             said
             in
             a
             slighting
             manner
             ,
             
               Va
               le
               voir
               ,
               Go
               see
               ,
            
             and
             taking
             it
             either
             as
             an
             Affront
             ,
             or
             as
             a
             Refusal
             to
             discover
             his
             Name
             and
             Quality
             ,
             discharg'd
             his
             Musquet
             ,
             and
             shot
             him
             into
             the
             Belly
             so
             dangerously
             ,
             that
             he
             had
             almost
             dy'd
             of
             the
             Wound
             .
          
           
             From
             Sisteron
             I
             came
             in
             a
             Day
             and
             a
             half
             to
             Aix
             ,
             which
             is
             but
             five
             Leagues
             distant
             from
             hence
             ,
             and
             was
             founded
             by
             
               Caius
               Sextius
            
             ,
             a
             Roman
             Consul
             ,
             who
             call'd
             it
             by
             his
             own
             Name
             ,
             in
             Memory
             of
             the
             
               Hot
               Baths
            
             he
             had
             built
             there
             ,
             which
             are
             still
             to
             be
             seen
             without
             the
             Walls
             .
             'T
             is
             neither
             large
             nor
             strong
             ,
             
             but
             it
             may
             be
             justly
             said
             to
             be
             a
             very
             pleasant
             City
             ,
             for
             't
             is
             seated
             in
             a
             lovely
             Plain
             ,
             that
             produces
             Store
             of
             good
             Wine
             ;
             and
             besides
             ,
             't
             is
             adorn'd
             with
             a
             considerable
             Number
             of
             new
             Houses
             ,
             which
             are
             very
             fine
             ,
             and
             built
             after
             the
             Italian
             Fashion
             .
             The
             Nobility
             of
             Provence
             are
             ,
             without
             dispute
             ,
             the
             greatest
             Lovers
             of
             Building
             in
             France
             ,
             and
             are
             at
             the
             greatest
             Charge
             in
             gratifying
             their
             Inclinations
             to
             Architecture
             ;
             and
             there
             are
             in
             this
             Country
             a
             great
             Number
             of
             admirably
             well-contriv'd
             Structures
             that
             may
             pass
             for
             little
             Palaces
             .
             The
             Metropolitan
             Church
             ,
             call'd
             
               S.
               Saviour's
            
             ,
             is
             particularly
             remarkable
             for
             the
             Tombs
             of
             four
             Counts
             of
             Provence
             ,
             a
             small
             subterraneous
             Chapel
             ,
             where
             't
             is
             said
             S.
             
               Mary
               Magdalen
            
             ended
             her
             Days
             ,
             and
             especially
             the
             
               Baptismal
               Font
            
             of
             white
             Marble
             ,
             adorn'd
             with
             Reliefs
             that
             are
             much
             esteem'd
             by
             the
             best
             Judges
             ,
             and
             cover'd
             with
             a
             little
             Marble
             Dome
             ,
             supported
             with
             Columns
             of
             the
             same
             ,
             making
             all
             together
             a
             very
             valuable
             Piece
             .
             The
             
               Place
               des
               Prêcheurs
            
             is
             the
             finest
             of
             all
             the
             spacious
             Courts
             or
             Squares
             in
             the
             City
             ,
             both
             for
             its
             Neatness
             and
             Largeness
             ,
             and
             for
             the
             Beauty
             of
             the
             Structures
             that
             surround
             it
             ,
             among
             which
             the
             ancient
             
               Palace
               of
               Justice
            
             deserves
             a
             particular
             Observation
             .
             In
             one
             of
             its
             Apartments
             ,
             where
             the
             Counts
             of
             Provence
             kept
             their
             Residence
             ,
             there
             is
             a
             very
             fine
             Room
             ,
             at
             present
             call'd
             ,
             
               The
               King's
               Chamber
            
             ,
             richly
             gilt
             ,
             and
             hung
             round
             with
             the
             Pictures
             of
             our
             Kings
             .
             After
             the
             Traveller
             has
             satisfy'd
             his
             Curiosity
             in
             this
             Place
             ,
             he
             may
             visit
             the
             Cours
             ,
             or
             publick
             Walking-Place
             and
             Rendezvous
             of
             Coaches
             ,
             which
             is
             800
             Paces
             long
             ,
             and
             15
             broad
             ,
             without
             reck'ning
             the
             pav'd
             Streets
             on
             both
             Sides
             for
             the
             Coaches
             .
             'T
             is
             enclos'd
             with
             Ballisters
             of
             Wood
             ,
             and
             all
             over-shadow'd
             with
             tufty
             Trees
             ,
             whose
             spreading
             Boughs
             cast
             such
             an
             agreeable
             Coolness
             in
             the
             Heat
             of
             Summer
             ,
             that
             one
             may
             walk
             in
             this
             lovely
             Place
             without
             the
             least
             incommodity
             ,
             at
             Three
             a
             Clock
             in
             the
             Afternoon
             :
             and
             
             besides
             ,
             at
             convenient
             Intervals
             ,
             there
             are
             Benches
             of
             Stone
             ,
             where
             those
             who
             are
             weary
             may
             rest
             themselves
             .
             The
             Houses
             that
             environ
             it
             are
             all
             very
             fine
             ,
             and
             inhabited
             by
             Persons
             of
             Quality
             ,
             who
             chuse
             to
             live
             there
             for
             the
             Pleasure
             of
             the
             Prospect
             ,
             and
             the
             Conveniency
             of
             walking
             without
             losing
             Sight
             of
             their
             Houses
             .
             This
             is
             the
             general
             Rendezvous
             of
             the
             genteeler
             part
             of
             the
             Inhabitants
             of
             the
             Town
             ,
             who
             flock
             hither
             every
             Evening
             ,
             and
             encrease
             the
             Pleasures
             of
             the
             Place
             with
             their
             agreeable
             Society
             and
             Conversation
             .
             You
             will
             be
             easily
             persuaded
             to
             believe
             that
             there
             are
             some
             handsome
             Women
             to
             be
             found
             among
             so
             much
             good
             Company
             :
             but
             I
             'm
             afraid
             you
             'll
             stand
             in
             need
             of
             all
             your
             Faith
             to
             give
             Credit
             to
             another
             Observation
             I
             made
             in
             this
             City
             .
             'T
             is
             perhaps
             the
             peculiar
             Advantage
             of
             the
             Gentlemen
             of
             Aix
             ,
             that
             they
             are
             possess'd
             of
             the
             dearest
             and
             most
             distinguishing
             Privilege
             of
             the
             Beautiful
             Sex
             ;
             Ten
             or
             Twelve
             of
             'em
             especially
             ,
             who
             are
             so
             many
             Adolphus's
             and
             Jucundus's
             ,
             and
             out-vie
             the
             most
             charming
             Ladies
             that
             ever
             were
             admir'd
             for
             the
             delicate
             Mixture
             of
             Roses
             and
             Lilies
             in
             their
             Complexion
             ,
             the
             Lustre
             of
             their
             Eyes
             ,
             and
             the
             incomparable
             Graces
             of
             their
             Mouth
             .
             These
             wondrous
             Youths
             are
             so
             many
             convincing
             Proofs
             of
             the
             Reasonableness
             of
             the
             first
             Part
             of
             that
             common
             Saying
             in
             this
             Country
             ,
             which
             ascribes
             the
             
               Preeminence
               in
               Beauty
            
             to
             the
             
               Men
               of
               Aix
            
             ,
             and
             the
             
               Women
               of
               Marseilles
            
             .
          
           
             The
             whole
             Country
             of
             Provence
             is
             under
             the
             Authority
             of
             the
             Parliament
             ,
             which
             was
             establish'd
             here
             by
             Lewis
             XII
             .
             Ann.
             1501.
             
             The
             Archbishoprick
             of
             this
             Place
             is
             remarkable
             for
             its
             Antiquity
             ,
             and
             the
             Extent
             of
             its
             Jurisdiction
             :
             for
             't
             is
             the
             Metropolitan
             See
             of
             a
             very
             large
             Ecclesiastical
             Province
             ,
             and
             the
             first
             Bishop
             was
             S.
             Maximin
             ,
             a
             Disciple
             of
             S.
             Lazarus
             .
          
           
           
             Since
             the
             County
             of
             Provence
             was
             dismember'd
             from
             the
             Roman
             Empire
             ,
             it
             has
             had
             the
             Misfortune
             to
             change
             its
             Masters
             very
             often
             :
             but
             instead
             of
             presenting
             you
             with
             a
             Catalogue
             of
             all
             its
             Sovereigns
             ,
             I
             shall
             content
             my self
             with
             observing
             that
             it
             was
             annex'd
             to
             the
             Crown
             of
             France
             ,
             under
             the
             Reig●
             of
             Lewis
             XI
             .
             by
             René
             ,
             Count
             of
             Provence
             ,
             and
             King
             of
             Naples
             and
             Sicily
             ;
             and
             that
             the
             Privileges
             reserv'd
             to
             the
             Inhabitants
             ,
             by
             the
             Conditions
             of
             that
             Donation
             ,
             were
             involv'd
             in
             the
             same
             Fate
             with
             those
             of
             
               Languedoc
               ,
               Dauphiné
               ,
               Burgundy
               ,
               Bretaign
               ,
            
             &c.
             
             For
             you
             know
             the
             King
             has
             a
             notable
             Faculty
             of
             
               Judging
               in
               his
               own
               Cause
            
             ,
             and
             is
             furnish'd
             on
             all
             Occasions
             ,
             with
             
               irresistible
               Arguments
            
             to
             demonstrate
             ,
             That
             
               his
               Will
               and
               Pleasure
               are
               the
               only
               Limits
               of
               his
               Royal
               Authority
               .
            
          
           
             The
             Air
             of
             this
             Province
             is
             so
             mild
             ,
             that
             't
             is
             seldom
             or
             never
             observ'd
             to
             be
             subject
             to
             Frosts
             :
             but
             the
             Advantages
             of
             its
             Climate
             are
             considerably
             lessen'd
             by
             the
             Boisterousness
             of
             the
             Winds
             that
             reign
             in
             it
             .
             And
             besides
             ,
             the
             Country
             is
             generally
             so
             mountainous
             ,
             that
             one
             half
             of
             it
             is
             not
             cultivated
             ;
             and
             the
             little
             fertil
             Ground
             that
             remains
             ,
             is
             so
             full
             of
             Stones
             ,
             that
             a
             Man
             wou'd
             be
             tempted
             to
             think
             they
             had
             been
             purposely
             brought
             thither
             .
             The
             Labourers
             take
             care
             to
             remove
             those
             that
             lie
             in
             their
             way
             ,
             and
             ,
             instead
             of
             Hedges
             ,
             surround
             their
             Fields
             with
             Stone-Walls
             ,
             which
             are
             almost
             every
             where
             three
             Foot
             high
             :
             so
             that
             if
             ever
             this
             Country
             be
             made
             the
             Seat
             of
             a
             War
             ,
             't
             will
             not
             be
             an
             easie
             Task
             to
             open
             a
             Passage
             thro'
             it
             for
             the
             Cavalry
             .
          
           
             But
             ,
             to
             make
             amends
             for
             the
             Inconveniency
             of
             the
             Soil
             ,
             which
             is
             neither
             proper
             for
             Corn
             nor
             Pasturage
             ,
             it
             produces
             very
             good
             Wine
             ,
             and
             great
             Store
             of
             such
             excellent
             Olives
             ,
             that
             the
             Oil
             of
             'em
             is
             esteem'd
             the
             best
             and
             sweetest
             in
             Europe
             .
             The
             Wine
             is
             of
             several
             Sorts
             ;
             for
             ,
             besides
             the
             Red
             ,
             which
             is
             most
             common
             ,
             and
             not
             inferiour
             to
             Burgundy
             ,
             there
             is
             the
             
               Pale-Red
               ,
               
               Red
               ,
               White
               ,
            
             and
             delicious
             Muscadin
             .
             The
             best
             grows
             at
             Ciotat
             ,
             a
             little
             Town
             between
             Marseilles
             and
             Toulon
             ;
             but
             't
             wou'd
             be
             needless
             to
             describe
             its
             Excellencies
             to
             you
             ,
             who
             have
             tasted
             it
             so
             often
             at
             Paris
             .
             There
             is
             also
             a
             mix'd
             Sort
             of
             Wine
             ,
             call'd
             Malmsey
             ,
             much
             esteem'd
             by
             the
             People
             of
             this
             Country
             ,
             who
             make
             it
             ,
             by
             boyling
             
               Red
               Muscadin
            
             with
             
               Cinnamon
               ,
               Cloves
            
             ,
             and
             the
             best
             Aqua-Vitae
             .
             They
             have
             also
             abundance
             of
             Ortolans
             ,
             (
             which
             are
             delicate
             ,
             and
             very
             beautiful
             Birds
             ,
             of
             the
             Bigness
             of
             a
             Lark
             )
             good
             
               Quails
               ,
               Red-legg'd
               Partridges
            
             ,
             and
             some
             Francolins
             ,
             which
             are
             a
             Sort
             of
             the
             immediately
             preceding
             Species
             of
             Birds
             ,
             for
             they
             have
             both
             the
             same
             Cry
             ,
             and
             Colour
             of
             Feathers
             ;
             only
             the
             Wings
             of
             the
             latter
             are
             spotted
             ,
             black
             and
             white
             ,
             their
             Legs
             are
             somewhat
             smaller
             ,
             and
             they
             are
             thought
             to
             exceed
             the
             others
             very
             considerably
             in
             their
             Agreeableness
             to
             the
             Taste
             .
             But
             all
             these
             Marks
             are
             not
             sufficient
             to
             distinguish
             'em
             when
             they
             are
             dress'd
             ,
             and
             therefore
             the
             Cooks
             usually
             stick
             one
             of
             the
             Feathers
             of
             the
             Wings
             into
             the
             Body
             of
             a
             Francolin
             ,
             that
             it
             may
             not
             be
             taken
             for
             a
             
               Red
               Partridge
            
             .
             'T
             is
             not
             so
             hard
             a
             Task
             to
             know
             the
             delicious
             Earth-Apples
             or
             Swine-bread
             ,
             that
             are
             so
             cheap
             in
             this
             Country
             :
             for
             tho'
             they
             are
             brought
             to
             the
             Table
             cover'd
             with
             a
             Napkin
             to
             keep
             'em
             warm
             ,
             the
             whole
             Chamber
             is
             immediately
             perfum'd
             with
             their
             odoriferous
             Scent
             .
             You
             must
             not
             imagine
             your self
             to
             be
             a
             competent
             Judge
             of
             this
             excellent
             subterraneous
             Fruit
             ,
             because
             you
             commonly
             eat
             'em
             dry'd
             in
             Ragou's
             at
             Paris
             :
             for
             they
             are
             incomparably
             more
             pleasant
             ,
             when
             the
             fresh
             Pulp
             is
             eaten
             like
             an
             Apple
             ,
             without
             any
             other
             Preparation
             than
             peeling
             off
             the
             Rind
             .
             'T
             is
             certain
             ,
             that
             Maids
             have
             reason
             to
             complain
             of
             the
             Tyrannical
             Custom
             that
             restrains
             'em
             from
             tasting
             a
             Dish
             which
             all
             the
             World
             admires
             ,
             under
             Pretext
             that
             't
             is
             too
             powerful
             an
             Incentive
             to
             Amorous
             Inclinations
             .
          
           
           
             This
             kind
             of
             Earth-Apple
             is
             neither
             a
             
               Plant
               ,
               Herb
            
             ,
             nor
             Mushroom
             :
             it
             grows
             in
             a
             very
             little
             time
             ,
             sometimes
             equalling
             a
             Man's
             Fist
             in
             Bigness
             ;
             and
             is
             always
             found
             at
             the
             depth
             of
             half
             a
             Foot
             under
             the
             Surface
             of
             the
             Ground
             .
             '
             Twou'd
             be
             impossible
             to
             discover
             these
             admirable
             Productions
             of
             the
             Earth
             ,
             without
             the
             Assistance
             of
             the
             Hogs
             ,
             who
             smell
             'em
             out
             :
             The
             Country
             People
             follow
             these
             Animals
             ,
             especially
             when
             they
             perceive
             'em
             busi'd
             in
             digging
             up
             the
             Ground
             ;
             and
             when
             they
             have
             gather'd
             so
             many
             ,
             that
             the
             Weight
             of
             'em
             may
             amount
             to
             five
             or
             six
             Pounds
             ,
             they
             carry
             'em
             to
             the
             Market
             ,
             where
             they
             sell
             'em
             for
             7
             or
             8
             Sous
             a
             Pound
             .
             Next
             these
             you
             cannot
             imagine
             any
             thing
             of
             a
             more
             delicious
             Taste
             than
             the
             
               large
               Grapes
            
             of
             Provence
             ,
             which
             the
             People
             of
             the
             Country
             have
             the
             Secret
             to
             preserve
             till
             May
             ,
             as
             fresh
             as
             if
             they
             were
             newly
             pick'd
             from
             the
             Tree
             ,
             bringing
             Baskets
             full
             of
             'em
             every
             Day
             to
             the
             Market
             .
             But
             this
             is
             not
             the
             only
             Reason
             why
             Provence
             may
             boast
             of
             an
             Autumn
             in
             the
             midst
             of
             Winter
             ;
             for
             the
             Arbute-Trees
             are
             not
             only
             ever
             green
             ,
             like
             Bays
             ,
             but
             continue
             to
             bear
             Fruit
             till
             Carnaval-time
             .
             This
             Fru●●
             resembles
             a
             very
             large
             Straw-berry
             ;
             but
             its
             Goodness
             is
             not
             answerable
             to
             its
             Beauty
             ,
             for
             't
             is
             full
             of
             small
             Seeds
             like
             Sand.
             These
             ,
             with
             the
             excellent
             Figs
             that
             are
             so
             common
             in
             this
             Country
             ,
             and
             some
             Peaches
             ,
             are
             ,
             I
             think
             ,
             all
             the
             Kinds
             of
             Fruit
             that
             are
             to
             be
             found
             in
             it
             .
             But
             I
             must
             except
             the
             Canton
             of
             Hieres
             ,
             which
             may
             justly
             dispute
             with
             Blois
             the
             Title
             of
             
               The
               Garden
               of
               France
            
             :
             For
             
               Orange
               ,
               Citron
            
             ,
             and
             Pomegranate-Trees
             grow
             as
             naturally
             there
             ,
             and
             are
             brought
             up
             with
             as
             little
             Care
             as
             Oaks
             and
             Chesnut-Trees
             in
             other
             Places
             .
             These
             Advantages
             are
             owing
             to
             the
             peculiar
             Advantages
             of
             its
             Situation
             ;
             for
             it
             seems
             to
             ingross
             all
             the
             Heat
             and
             fruitful
             Influences
             of
             the
             Sun
             ,
             and
             to
             be
             wholly
             exempted
             from
             all
             the
             Inconveniencies
             of
             even
             the
             sharpest
             Winters
             .
          
           
           
             You
             may
             expect
             in
             my
             next
             an
             Account
             of
             the
             City
             of
             Marseilles
             ,
             and
             of
             S.
             Baume
             ;
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             I
             am
             ,
             with
             a
             great
             deal
             of
             Zeal
             and
             Affection
             ,
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
             
               Your
               &c.
               
            
             
               Marseilles
               ,
               
                 Dec.
                 1689.
                 
              
            
          
        
         
           
             LETTER
             VII
             .
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
          
           
             MArseilles
             is
             one
             of
             the
             most
             ancient
             Cities
             in
             France
             ;
             and
             tho
             it
             was
             famous
             in
             all
             Ages
             ,
             't
             is
             not
             an
             easie
             Task
             to
             trace
             its
             Original
             ,
             notwithstanding
             the
             Opinion
             of
             some
             Writers
             ,
             who
             pretend
             that
             't
             was
             founded
             by
             the
             Greek
             Exiles
             ,
             who
             were
             driven
             out
             of
             their
             Country
             by
             
               Cyrus
               the
               Great
            
             .
             'T
             was
             formerly
             the
             seat
             of
             an
             Illustrious
             Assembly
             of
             learned
             Senators
             ,
             and
             of
             an
             Accademy
             ,
             which
             was
             the
             general
             Rendezvous
             of
             Studious
             Persons
             from
             all
             the
             Corners
             of
             the
             World.
             These
             glorious
             Advantages
             made
             it
             in
             a
             manner
             the
             
               Metropolis
               of
               the
               Commonwealth
               of
               Learning
            
             ;
             and
             inspir'd
             the
             Romans
             with
             so
             high
             an
             Esteem
             for
             it
             ,
             that
             they
             courted
             the
             Friendship
             of
             the
             Citizens
             of
             Marseilles
             ,
             while
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             Inhabitants
             of
             Provence
             were
             their
             
               Conquer'd
               Vassals
            
             .
             After
             the
             Fall
             of
             the
             Roman
             Empire
             ,
             't
             was
             govern'd
             as
             a
             Republick
             by
             four
             Counts
             ;
             till
             at
             last
             the
             Inhabitants
             ,
             finding
             themselves
             unable
             to
             withstand
             the
             united
             force
             of
             their
             Neighbours
             ,
             put
             themselves
             under
             the
             Authority
             and
             Protection
             of
             the
             Kings
             of
             France
             .
             But
             the
             Conditions
             of
             this
             Voluntary
             Submission
             were
             very
             Honourable
             and
             Advantageous
             
             for
             't
             was
             concluded
             ,
             that
             the
             City
             and
             its
             Territory
             ,
             which
             comprehends
             two
             Leagues
             round
             ,
             shou'd
             be
             exempted
             from
             all
             manner
             of
             Taxes
             ,
             Charges
             ,
             and
             Impositions
             ;
             that
             the
             King
             shou'd
             not
             pretend
             a
             Right
             to
             any
             Customs
             or
             Duties
             for
             Goods
             Exported
             or
             Imported
             ;
             That
             the
             City
             shou'd
             be
             govern'd
             by
             Four
             Consuls
             ,
             who
             shou'd
             hold
             their
             Office
             for
             Life
             ,
             and
             be
             elected
             by
             the
             Citizens
             ;
             only
             't
             was
             agreed
             ,
             That
             one
             Judge
             or
             Magistrate
             might
             be
             sent
             by
             the
             King
             ,
             with
             the
             Title
             of
             Viguier
             :
             That
             they
             shou'd
             not
             be
             oblig'd
             to
             receive
             any
             Garrison
             ,
             or
             be
             commanded
             by
             any
             Cittadel
             but
             that
             of
             
               Nôtre-Dame
               de
               la
               Garde
            
             :
             Besides
             several
             other
             Articles
             of
             the
             same
             Nature
             ,
             which
             remain'd
             in
             force
             till
             the
             King's
             Voyage
             thither
             ;
             when
             he
             took
             the
             occasion
             of
             a
             Mutiny
             that
             was
             rais'd
             against
             the
             Duke
             of
             Guise
             ,
             General
             of
             his
             Galleys
             ,
             to
             abolish
             all
             the
             Privileges
             of
             Marseilles
             .
             You
             may
             imagine
             with
             what
             Consternation
             and
             inward
             Rage
             they
             heard
             of
             their
             Sovereign's
             Approach
             in
             a
             Hostile
             manner
             ,
             with
             an
             Army
             at
             his
             Heels
             ;
             and
             afterwards
             beheld
             him
             enter
             the
             Breach
             as
             into
             a
             conquer'd
             City
             :
             However
             they
             set
             a
             good
             Face
             on
             't
             ,
             and
             resolving
             to
             make
             the
             best
             they
             cou'd
             of
             a
             desperate
             Game
             ,
             received
             the
             Destroyer
             of
             their
             Liberty
             with
             all
             imaginable
             Marks
             of
             Love
             and
             Respect
             .
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             he
             order'd
             ten
             thousand
             Men
             to
             march
             into
             the
             City
             ,
             who
             seiz'd
             on
             the
             principal
             Posts
             ,
             and
             were
             lodg'd
             in
             the
             Citizen's
             Houses
             ;
             and
             afterwards
             told
             'em
             ,
             that
             he
             had
             observ'd
             a
             great
             Number
             of
             pretty
             Buildings
             in
             their
             Territory
             ,
             and
             was
             so
             well
             pleas'd
             with
             'em
             ,
             that
             he
             was
             resolv'd
             to
             build
             one
             more
             .
             This
             Design
             was
             quickly
             put
             in
             execution
             ;
             for
             the
             Cittadel
             was
             erected
             at
             the
             Mouth
             of
             the
             Port
             on
             the
             Right-side
             ,
             and
             
               Fort
               S.
               John
            
             on
             the
             other
             .
             The
             People
             of
             Marseilles
             perceiving
             that
             Reason
             was
             too
             feeble
             a
             Defence
             
             against
             Violence
             ,
             very
             tamely
             submitted
             to
             the
             new
             Yoke
             that
             was
             impos'd
             upon
             'em
             :
             And
             their
             
               forc'd
               Complaisance
            
             on
             this
             Occasion
             ,
             was
             made
             the
             Subject
             of
             a
             Song
             ;
             of
             which
             these
             are
             two
             Stanza's
             :
             
               
                 
                   He
                   told'em
                   he
                   wou'd
                   build
                   a
                   Fort
                   ,
                
                 
                   And
                   swore
                   't
                   was
                   meerly
                   to
                   protect
                   'em
                   :
                
                 
                   They
                   swore
                   again
                   they
                   thank'd
                   him
                   for
                   't
                   ,
                
                 
                   Because
                   they
                   durst
                   not
                   contradict
                   him
                   .
                
              
               
                 
                   They
                   vow'd
                   they
                   were
                   his
                   loyal
                   Slaves
                   ,
                
                 
                   With
                   Lives
                   and
                   Fortunes
                   to
                   assist
                   him
                   ;
                
                 
                   Ready
                   to
                   serve
                   him
                   to
                   their
                   Graves
                   ,
                
                 
                   Because
                   unable
                   to
                   resist
                   him
                   .
                
              
            
          
           
             Whatever
             were
             the
             Sentiments
             of
             these
             unfortunate
             People
             at
             that
             time
             ,
             I
             can
             assure
             you
             that
             most
             of
             the
             old
             Inhabitants
             are
             struck
             with
             so
             much
             Horrour
             at
             the
             remembrance
             of
             that
             .
             Disaster
             ,
             that
             they
             never
             relate
             the
             Story
             of
             it
             without
             the
             deepest
             Marks
             of
             a
             lively
             Sorrow
             .
             And
             they
             still
             retain
             such
             an
             inconceivable
             Abhorrence
             against
             the
             French
             ,
             that
             they
             scarce
             ever
             mention
             'em
             but
             in
             the
             most
             reproachful
             Terms
             that
             Spite
             or
             Disdain
             can
             invent
             .
             They
             look
             upon
             all
             those
             of
             that
             Nation
             to
             be
             contemptible
             Wretches
             ;
             and
             you
             cannot
             do
             'em
             a
             more
             provoking
             Injury
             than
             to
             call
             'em
             Frenchmen
             .
             I
             cannot
             give
             you
             a
             more
             lively
             Representation
             of
             their
             implacable
             Hatred
             against
             our
             Nation
             ,
             than
             by
             relating
             a
             Story
             which
             I
             heard
             t'other
             Day
             :
             When
             the
             King
             concluded
             the
             last
             Peace
             with
             Algiers
             ,
             Commissioners
             were
             sent
             on
             board
             all
             the
             Galleys
             ,
             and
             into
             the
             Baths
             ,
             to
             release
             all
             the
             French
             Slaves
             they
             cou'd
             find
             :
             Some
             of
             these
             Officers
             perceiving
             a
             Man
             ,
             whom
             they
             took
             to
             be
             one
             of
             their
             own
             Nation
             ,
             standing
             in
             a
             careless
             manner
             ,
             without
             showing
             the
             
             least
             desire
             to
             be
             Enroll'd
             in
             their
             List
             ,
             ask'd
             him
             ,
             
               Whether
               he
               was
               a
               Frenchman
               :
               No
               ,
            
             answer'd
             he
             :
             
               What
               Countryman
               art
               thou
               then
            
             ?
             said
             one
             of
             the
             Commissioners
             :
             
               I
               'm
               a
               Native
               of
               Marseilles
            
             ,
             reply'd
             the
             Slave
             :
             
               Very
               well
            
             ,
             said
             the
             Commssioners
             ;
             
               write
               to
               thy
               King
               of
               Marseilles
               ,
               that
               he
               may
               set
               thee
               at
               liberty
               .
            
             This
             is
             no
             contriv'd
             Story
             ,
             but
             so
             certain
             and
             well-attested
             a
             Truth
             ,
             that
             I
             know
             some
             Persons
             who
             were
             present
             when
             the
             Accident
             happen'd
             :
             Nor
             will
             the
             credibleness
             of
             this
             Relation
             be
             question'd
             by
             any
             who
             have
             had
             occasion
             to
             converse
             with
             the
             Inhabitants
             of
             this
             City
             ,
             or
             to
             be
             Witnesses
             of
             their
             extreme
             Aversion
             against
             our
             Countrymen
             .
             If
             any
             of
             'em
             gives
             his
             Daughter
             in
             Marriage
             to
             a
             Frenchman
             ,
             or
             makes
             a
             Man
             of
             that
             Nation
             his
             particular
             Friend
             ,
             he
             exposes
             himself
             infallibly
             to
             the
             Hatred
             and
             Scorn
             of
             all
             his
             Neighbours
             :
             And
             if
             a
             Maid
             shou'd
             receive
             a
             Visit
             from
             a
             Frenchman
             ,
             she
             might
             for
             ever
             despair
             of
             finding
             a
             Husband
             in
             her
             own
             Country
             .
             To
             conclude
             ;
             The
             People
             of
             Marseilles
             are
             in
             all
             respects
             diametrically
             opposite
             to
             us
             ;
             only
             I
             must
             except
             from
             this
             general
             Rule
             ,
             the
             Nobility
             of
             this
             City
             ,
             and
             of
             the
             Country
             in
             which
             't
             is
             seated
             ,
             than
             whom
             there
             are
             none
             of
             their
             Quality
             in
             France
             that
             can
             lay
             a
             juster
             Claim
             to
             Antiquity
             of
             Descent
             ,
             and
             Politeness
             of
             Manners
             ;
             nor
             any
             that
             are
             better
             affected
             to
             his
             Majesty's
             Service
             .
          
           
             The
             Language
             of
             Provence
             is
             extremely
             harsh
             and
             unpleasant
             ,
             especially
             in
             Marseilles
             ,
             and
             the
             Territory
             that
             belongs
             to
             it
             ,
             where
             the
             Pronunciation
             is
             as
             Guttural
             as
             in
             Arabia
             .
             You
             can
             hardly
             imagine
             what
             a
             vast
             Alteration
             the
             very
             Sound
             or
             Accent
             makes
             in
             a
             Language
             :
             There
             is
             scarce
             any
             difference
             at
             all
             between
             the
             Words
             of
             the
             Dialects
             that
             are
             us'd
             in
             Provence
             and
             Languedoc
             ,
             and
             nevertheless
             this
             is
             as
             amorous
             and
             agreeable
             as
             
             that
             is
             rough
             and
             uncouth
             .
             A
             Stranger
             is
             never
             more
             sensible
             of
             the
             Truth
             of
             this
             Observation
             ,
             than
             at
             his
             first
             Arrival
             :
             And
             I
             remember
             that
             the
             very
             Day
             on
             which
             I
             came
             to
             this
             City
             ,
             I
             was
             astonish'd
             at
             the
             intolerable
             Clownishness
             with
             which
             a
             handsome
             young
             Lady
             pronounc'd
             these
             Words
             ,
             to
             diswade
             one
             of
             her
             Kinsmen
             from
             quarrelling
             with
             an
             ordinary
             Woman
             :
             
               Hai
               ,
               mon
               Cousin
            
             ,
             said
             she
             ,
             
               laché
               stata
               quelle
               femme
               ,
               non
               sabais
               pas
               qua
               cau
               à
               la
               teste
               dau
               Diable
               .
            
             This
             made
             me
             tell
             a
             Gentleman
             ,
             who
             ,
             some
             Days
             after
             ,
             ask'd
             my
             Opinion
             of
             the
             Women
             of
             Marseilles
             ,
             That
             
               I
               admir'd
               their
               Beauty
               ,
               but
               cou'd
               wish
               they
               were
               dumb
               ,
               because
               their
               Speech
               was
               such
               a
               Bugbear
               ,
               that
               all
               the
               Charms
               of
               their
               Countenance
               cou'd
               never
               retain
               a
            
             French
             
               Lover
               .
               If
               you
               were
               acquainted
               with
               their
               Humour
               ,
            
             reply'd
             he
             ,
             
               you
               wou'd
               be
               easily
               convinc'd
               ,
               that
               the
               very
               Reason
               you
               alledge
               wou'd
               make
               'em
               in
               love
               with
               their
               Pronounciation
               .
            
          
           
             Marseilles
             is
             one
             of
             the
             most
             populous
             Cities
             in
             France
             ;
             but
             the
             third
             part
             of
             those
             who
             reside
             in
             it
             are
             Strangers
             .
             The
             old
             part
             of
             the
             Town
             is
             neither
             very
             large
             nor
             fair
             :
             The
             Streets
             are
             narrow
             ,
             crooked
             ,
             and
             uneven
             ,
             by
             reason
             of
             its
             Situation
             on
             a
             Hillock
             ;
             but
             't
             is
             at
             least
             double
             of
             what
             it
             was
             thirty
             Years
             ago
             .
             The
             Cours
             ,
             or
             Publick
             Place
             for
             taking
             the
             Air
             ,
             is
             exactly
             in
             the
             middle
             of
             a
             long
             and
             very
             streight
             Street
             ,
             that
             reaches
             from
             the
             Gate
             of
             Aix
             to
             that
             of
             Rome
             ,
             and
             separates
             the
             Old
             from
             the
             New
             Town
             .
             'T
             is
             1000
             Paces
             long
             ,
             (
             which
             is
             only
             the
             third
             part
             of
             the
             length
             of
             the
             Street
             )
             and
             in
             all
             other
             respects
             is
             like
             to
             that
             of
             Aix
             .
             Four
             Men
             are
             hir'd
             by
             the
             City
             ,
             to
             Water
             it
             twice
             a
             Day
             in
             Summer
             ,
             that
             the
             Dust
             may
             not
             offend
             the
             Gentlemen
             and
             Citizens
             ,
             who
             flock
             thither
             every
             Evening
             in
             such
             Multitudes
             ,
             that
             a
             Man
             can
             hardly
             turn
             himself
             in
             the
             Croud
             .
             The
             Houses
             that
             Border
             it
             are
             
             built
             pretty
             regularly
             ,
             but
             are
             not
             so
             fine
             as
             at
             Aix
             .
          
           
             The
             New
             City
             is
             well
             built
             ;
             the
             Streets
             are
             broad
             ,
             streight
             ,
             and
             light
             ;
             and
             besides
             ,
             't
             is
             considerable
             for
             the
             Quality
             of
             its
             Inhabitants
             ;
             for
             all
             the
             Officers
             of
             the
             Galleys
             ,
             the
             Gentry
             ,
             and
             the
             richer
             part
             of
             the
             Citizens
             chuse
             to
             live
             in
             it
             .
             The
             Extent
             of
             the
             Walls
             of
             the
             City
             has
             been
             considerably
             augmented
             within
             these
             three
             Years
             ;
             for
             besides
             what
             they
             contain●d
             before
             ,
             there
             is
             a
             large
             Space
             enclos'd
             behind
             the
             Arsenal
             for
             a
             
               ●lace
               of
               Arms
            
             ,
             which
             (
             when
             finish'd
             )
             will
             be
             300
             Paces
             square
             .
             The
             King
             bestows
             the
             Ground
             about
             this
             Place
             on
             those
             who
             will
             build
             Houses
             on
             it
             ,
             provided
             they
             observe
             the
             Lines
             mark'd
             out
             for
             that
             purpose
             .
             By
             means
             of
             this
             new
             Addition
             ,
             the
             Abbey
             of
             S.
             Victor
             is
             advanc'd
             further
             within
             the
             Town
             ,
             being
             a
             Monastery
             of
             unreform'd
             Benedictines
             ,
             who
             acknowledge
             no
             other
             Superiour
             but
             the
             Pope
             ,
             in
             Ecclesiastical
             Cases
             .
             There
             are
             50000
             Livres
             a
             Year
             annex'd
             to
             this
             House
             ,
             for
             the
             Maintenance
             of
             eighteen
             or
             twenty
             Monks
             ,
             who
             know
             very
             well
             how
             to
             enjoy
             all
             the
             comforts
             of
             so
             plentiful
             a
             Revenue
             .
             The
             Neighbourhood
             of
             these
             Independent
             Gentlemen
             is
             so
             great
             an
             Eye-sore
             to
             the
             Bishop
             of
             Marseilles
             ,
             that
             he
             has
             several
             times
             endeavour'd
             to
             make
             'em
             consent
             to
             the
             Re-union
             of
             their
             Monastery
             with
             the
             Chapter
             of
             the
             Cathedral
             ,
             offering
             'em
             all
             the
             Privileges
             of
             the
             Canons
             ,
             with
             the
             Coadjutorship
             of
             the
             Bishoprick
             for
             their
             Prior
             :
             But
             they
             have
             hitherto
             kept
             themselves
             from
             being
             dazzl'd
             with
             the
             seeming
             Advantageousness
             of
             these
             Proposals
             .
             The
             present
             Bishop
             is
             of
             the
             Family
             of
             Vintimille
             ,
             descended
             from
             the
             Counts
             of
             Marseilles
             ,
             and
             Nephew
             of
             Cardinal
             
               Fourbain
               Janson
            
             ,
             his
             Predecessor
             in
             the
             Bishoprick
             .
             He
             is
             well-shap'd
             ,
             handsome
             ,
             not
             above
             thirty
             Years
             old
             ,
             has
             very
             much
             
             the
             Air
             of
             the
             Court
             ,
             and
             might
             be
             reckon'd
             a
             very
             handsome
             Man
             ,
             if
             his
             Teeth
             were
             somewhat
             smaller
             ,
             and
             more
             evenly
             set
             .
             He
             is
             a
             Man
             of
             Sence
             and
             good
             Breeding
             ,
             of
             a
             pleasant
             Wit
             and
             agreeable
             Conversation
             .
             He
             is
             none
             of
             those
             morose
             Censurers
             ,
             who
             affect
             a
             certain
             Surliness
             and
             ill
             Humour
             on
             all
             Occasions
             .
             His
             Life
             is
             a
             convincing
             Argument
             that
             the
             Pleasures
             of
             this
             World
             are
             not
             altogether
             inconsistent
             with
             Devotion
             .
             He
             plays
             ,
             hears
             Opera's
             ,
             visits
             Ladies
             ,
             and
             if
             we
             may
             believe
             the
             common
             Report
             ,
             is
             not
             hated
             by
             'em
             :
             Yet
             all
             these
             must
             be
             acknowledg'd
             to
             be
             innocent
             Liberties
             ,
             since
             he
             always
             preserves
             a
             due
             regard
             to
             the
             Laws
             of
             Decency
             ,
             and
             never
             seems
             to
             be
             guilty
             of
             any
             Criminal
             Design
             .
             I
             know
             a
             Person
             who
             took
             the
             liberey
             to
             desire
             the
             use
             of
             his
             Purple
             Habit
             and
             Golden
             Cross
             ,
             for
             a
             Masque
             :
             The
             Prelate
             reply'd
             ,
             That
             these
             Accoutrements
             were
             Sacred
             ;
             but
             very
             civilly
             accommodated
             him
             with
             his
             Cassock
             ,
             short
             Cloak
             ,
             and
             Perriwig
             .
             He
             has
             a
             Niece
             who
             is
             admitted
             into
             the
             Nunnery
             of
             S.
             Ursula
             ,
             at
             Marseilles
             ,
             and
             is
             certainly
             the
             most
             amiable
             Girl
             in
             the
             World
             :
             His
             Affection
             to
             her
             is
             suitable
             to
             her
             Merit
             ;
             and
             since
             she
             is
             yet
             too
             young
             to
             bear
             the
             Austerities
             of
             a
             Religious
             Life
             ,
             he
             suffers
             her
             to
             live
             with
             her
             Father
             ,
             the
             Marquess
             
               de
               Fourbain
            
             :
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             he
             visits
             her
             daily
             ,
             and
             instructs
             her
             in
             all
             the
             Duties
             of
             her
             Profession
             .
             Let
             us
             leave
             'em
             in
             this
             Holy
             Occupation
             ,
             and
             take
             a
             View
             of
             the
             Port
             of
             Marseilles
             .
          
           
             'T
             is
             inclos'd
             within
             the
             City
             ,
             which
             secures
             it
             on
             all
             sides
             from
             the
             Violence
             of
             the
             Winds
             ;
             and
             its
             Mouth
             that
             before
             was
             not
             above
             thirty
             Paces
             broad
             ,
             is
             streighten'd
             by
             two
             Moles
             ,
             leaving
             a
             very
             narrow
             Passage
             for
             the
             Galleys
             ,
             which
             is
             shut
             up
             with
             a
             Chain
             every
             Night
             ,
             and
             open'd
             at
             Seven
             in
             the
             Morning
             .
             The
             Harbour
             
             by
             the
             largest
             Computation
             is
             not
             above
             twelve
             hundred
             Paces
             long
             ,
             and
             three
             hundred
             broad
             ;
             and
             besides
             ,
             't
             is
             so
             shallow
             that
             a
             Man
             of
             War
             cannot
             enter
             into
             it
             .
             However
             't
             is
             the
             Station
             of
             all
             the
             King's
             Galleys
             ,
             of
             which
             there
             are
             forty
             five
             ,
             including
             the
             old
             Patronne
             ,
             which
             at
             present
             serves
             only
             for
             a
             Show
             ,
             and
             for
             an
             Instance
             of
             the
             late
             prodigious
             Increase
             of
             the
             French
             Grandeur
             .
             All
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             Galleys
             are
             magnificently
             Painted
             and
             Gilt
             ,
             especially
             the
             new
             Patronne
             ,
             which
             is
             adorn'd
             with
             the
             finest
             Basso-Relievo's
             that
             are
             made
             in
             this
             Age
             :
             Besides
             the
             Flags
             ,
             Banners
             ,
             Streamers
             ,
             and
             Pendants
             ,
             which
             are
             all
             incredibly
             Rich.
             All
             these
             Ornaments
             are
             of
             the
             best
             and
             finest
             red
             Dama●k
             ,
             with
             Flower-de-Luces
             ,
             Devices
             ,
             and
             Coats
             of
             Arms
             embroider'd
             with
             Gold
             :
             The
             principal
             Flag
             is
             above
             forty
             Foot
             long
             ,
             and
             ten
             broad
             ;
             and
             all
             the
             rest
             are
             proportionably
             large
             :
             The
             Poop
             ,
             where
             the
             General
             has
             his
             Chamber
             ,
             is
             cover'd
             with
             the
             same
             Stuff
             ,
             enrich'd
             with
             a
             Fringe
             of
             Gold
             and
             Silk
             .
          
           
             All
             the
             other
             Galleys
             are
             adorn'd
             after
             the
             same
             manner
             ,
             only
             instead
             of
             Gold
             they
             have
             Yellowish
             Silk
             ,
             which
             is
             no
             less
             agreeable
             to
             the
             Sight
             ,
             especially
             at
             a
             Distance
             .
             'T
             is
             impossible
             to
             behold
             a
             more
             stately
             Prospect
             than
             those
             Galleys
             when
             they
             appear
             in
             all
             their
             Magnificence
             on
             Sundays
             and
             Holydays
             .
             But
             notwithstanding
             all
             these
             external
             Beauties
             ,
             they
             are
             only
             splendid
             Prisons
             to
             the
             most
             miserable
             Wretches
             in
             the
             World
             ;
             the
             poor
             Slaves
             are
             chain'd
             together
             ,
             eaten
             up
             with
             Vermin
             and
             Scabs
             ,
             beaten
             from
             Morning
             to
             Night
             ,
             and
             expos'd
             to
             all
             the
             Injuries
             of
             Cold.
             Their
             only
             Habit
             is
             a
             sort
             of
             wide
             and
             short
             Jacket
             ,
             without
             Shooes
             or
             Stockings
             ,
             without
             a
             Shirt
             for
             Change
             ,
             without
             Straw
             to
             lie
             upon
             ,
             without
             any
             other
             Food
             than
             a
             little
             Bread
             as
             black
             as
             Soot
             ;
             and
             to
             crown
             their
             Misery
             ,
             without
             the
             
             least
             hope
             of
             a
             Deliverance
             from
             this
             deplorable
             Captivity
             ,
             more
             insupportable
             than
             that
             of
             the
             Turks
             .
             There
             comes
             not
             a
             Person
             of
             Quality
             to
             Marseilles
             whom
             the
             Intendant
             does
             not
             regale
             with
             this
             sight
             on
             board
             the
             new
             Patronne
             ,
             which
             on
             these
             Occasions
             is
             embellish'd
             with
             all
             its
             Ornaments
             .
             The
             Galley-Slaves
             perform
             their
             Exercise
             by
             the
             Sound
             of
             a
             Fisquet
             :
             First
             they
             salute
             the
             Intendant
             and
             those
             that
             are
             with
             him
             ,
             bellowing
             out
             thrice
             
               Hou
               ,
               hou
               ,
               hou
            
             ,
             as
             if
             they
             were
             Bears
             in
             a
             Humane
             Form
             :
             In
             the
             next
             place
             they
             stretch
             a
             Rope
             from
             one
             side
             of
             the
             Galley
             to
             the
             other
             ,
             and
             then
             a
             Sail-Yard
             ;
             this
             done
             ,
             they
             set
             up
             the
             Tent
             and
             take
             it
             down
             again
             ;
             after
             which
             comes
             the
             most
             necessary
             part
             of
             their
             Exercise
             ,
             they
             pull
             off
             their
             Jackets
             and
             Shirts
             ,
             shaking
             off
             the
             Lice
             into
             the
             Sea
             ,
             and
             sweeping
             'em
             away
             with
             their
             Hands
             :
             Then
             they
             put
             on
             their
             Clothes
             ,
             and
             the
             Haut-boys
             entertain
             their
             Company
             ;
             who
             at
             their
             Departure
             receive
             the
             same
             howling
             Salutation
             as
             at
             first
             .
             I
             know
             not
             what
             Pleasure
             some
             Persons
             may
             take
             in
             beholding
             so
             dismal
             a
             Spectacle
             ,
             but
             I
             assure
             you
             it
             had
             a
             quite
             contrary
             Effect
             upon
             me
             :
             I
             was
             altogether
             unable
             to
             resist
             the
             Motions
             of
             a
             most
             tender
             Compassion
             ,
             mixt
             with
             Horrour
             ;
             and
             I
             'm
             persuaded
             you
             cou'd
             not
             preserve
             the
             usual
             Tranquillity
             of
             your
             Mind
             at
             the
             reading
             of
             a
             lively
             Recital
             of
             the
             Reflexions
             I
             made
             on
             this
             Occasion
             :
             I
             shall
             therefore
             leave
             this
             melancholy
             Subject
             ,
             and
             proceed
             to
             entertain
             you
             with
             something
             more
             diverting
             .
          
           
             These
             Galleys
             are
             Mann'd
             with
             a
             Regiment
             ,
             compos'd
             of
             as
             many
             Companies
             as
             there
             are
             Vessels
             ,
             each
             Company
             consisting
             of
             one
             hundred
             and
             twenty
             Men
             ,
             who
             exceed
             all
             the
             Soldiers
             in
             the
             King's
             Service
             ,
             in
             Comeliness
             of
             Person
             ,
             and
             Largeness
             of
             Stature
             ;
             for
             the
             Captains
             never
             grudge
             to
             advance
             Ten
             
               Louis
               d'
               Or
               's
            
             when
             they
             meet
             with
             a
             
             Man
             that
             pleases
             'em
             :
             And
             besides
             ,
             there
             are
             two
             considerable
             Encouragements
             that
             invite
             Men
             to
             enter
             into
             this
             Service
             ;
             for
             they
             have
             a
             Sous
             a
             Day
             more
             than
             in
             the
             Land-Army
             ;
             and
             the
             Campaign
             ,
             or
             time
             of
             Action
             ,
             never
             lasts
             above
             two
             Months
             .
             There
             is
             also
             a
             distinct
             Company
             ,
             call'd
             the
             
               Guards
               of
               the
               Standard
            
             ,
             who
             are
             cloath'd
             in
             Red
             ,
             with
             a
             Gold
             Galoon
             ,
             and
             train'd
             up
             to
             be
             Ensigns
             of
             the
             Galleys
             :
             This
             Company
             consisted
             formerly
             of
             fifty
             Men
             ,
             but
             their
             Number
             was
             doubl'd
             this
             Winter
             ,
             and
             't
             was
             order'd
             that
             no
             Person
             henceforth
             shou'd
             be
             admitted
             into
             it
             ,
             without
             a
             Brevet
             .
          
           
             The
             Duke
             of
             Maine
             is
             at
             present
             General
             of
             the
             Galleys
             ;
             but
             since
             that
             Office
             is
             purely
             Honorary
             ,
             all
             the
             Duties
             of
             it
             are
             executed
             by
             the
             Lieutenant-General
             ,
             the
             
               Chevalier
               de
               Noailles
            
             ,
             Brother
             to
             the
             Duke
             of
             that
             Name
             .
             This
             Officer
             is
             much
             envy'd
             ,
             if
             not
             hated
             ,
             by
             some
             old
             Commanders
             of
             Squadrons
             ,
             who
             grumbl'd
             extremely
             to
             see
             him
             advanc'd
             before
             'em
             ;
             yet
             since
             he
             is
             a
             very
             brave
             Man
             ,
             and
             possess'd
             of
             his
             Master's
             Favour
             ,
             his
             Court
             is
             always
             pretty
             numerous
             .
             Some
             days
             ago
             he
             visited
             the
             Arsenal
             ,
             and
             I
             took
             hold
             of
             that
             Occasion
             to
             satisfie
             my
             Curiosity
             ,
             which
             I
             cou'd
             hardly
             have
             done
             at
             another
             time
             ;
             for
             Monsieur
             
               de
               Montmor
            
             ,
             the
             Intendant
             ,
             keeps
             the
             Keys
             of
             the
             most
             considerable
             Places
             ,
             and
             never
             parts
             with
             'em
             out
             of
             his
             Custody
             ,
             but
             when
             there
             is
             something
             to
             be
             done
             that
             requires
             the
             opening
             of
             the
             Doors
             .
             Tho'
             this
             Arsenal
             was
             not
             begun
             to
             be
             built
             till
             about
             Thirty
             Years
             ago
             ,
             it
             may
             be
             divided
             into
             the
             Old
             and
             the
             New
             ;
             since
             the
             Additions
             that
             have
             been
             made
             within
             these
             four
             Years
             ,
             make
             it
             at
             least
             double
             of
             what
             it
             was
             before
             .
             The
             Length
             of
             the
             
               Old
               Arsenal
            
             is
             equal
             to
             the
             Breadth
             of
             the
             Port
             which
             it
             fronts
             ;
             It
             contains
             particular
             Magazines
             for
             all
             the
             Galleys
             ,
             mark'd
             with
             their
             respective
             Names
             ,
             with
             large
             Round
             
             Doors
             .
             This
             is
             the
             Lower
             Story
             on
             one
             Side
             ;
             the
             other
             contains
             Magazines
             of
             Cannon
             ,
             Bombs
             ,
             Carcasses
             ,
             and
             Gun-Powder
             ,
             in
             which
             't
             is
             said
             there
             are
             Two
             thousand
             Pieces
             of
             Cannon
             ,
             and
             Five
             hundred
             Bombs
             .
             The
             Upper
             Story
             is
             divided
             into
             Rooms
             ,
             where
             the
             Flags
             ,
             Pendants
             ,
             Sails
             ,
             and
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             Tackling
             are
             kept
             ;
             but
             most
             of
             'em
             are
             empty
             .
             Here
             is
             also
             a
             fair
             Hall
             of
             Arms
             ,
             the
             Walls
             of
             which
             are
             hung
             with
             Six
             thousand
             Musquets
             ,
             and
             as
             many
             Sabres
             ,
             all
             kept
             in
             very
             good
             Order
             :
             And
             near
             this
             is
             another
             ,
             where
             there
             are
             Five
             hundred
             Sutes
             of
             Armour
             ,
             all
             intire
             and
             bright
             as
             Silver
             .
             The
             whole
             Arsenal
             is
             one
             single
             Mass
             of
             Building
             ,
             in
             the
             Middle
             of
             which
             there
             is
             a
             Dome
             with
             a
             Clock
             :
             and
             tho'
             in
             the
             general
             it
             may
             be
             reckon'd
             a
             fine
             Building
             ,
             there
             is
             nothing
             in
             it
             that
             deserves
             to
             be
             admir'd
             .
             The
             
               New
               Arsenal
            
             begins
             where
             the
             other
             ends
             ,
             and
             stretches
             along
             the
             Port
             almost
             to
             the
             Cittadel
             :
             'T
             is
             larger
             than
             the
             
               Old
               Arsenal
            
             ,
             tho'
             not
             so
             well
             built
             ,
             but
             when
             't
             is
             finish'd
             't
             will
             exceed
             the
             other
             ,
             not
             only
             in
             Vastness
             of
             Extent
             ,
             but
             in
             the
             Beauty
             and
             Conveniency
             of
             a
             fine
             Canal
             ,
             thro'
             which
             the
             Galleys
             may
             come
             to
             the
             Doors
             of
             their
             respective
             Magazines
             .
             'T
             is
             also
             said
             that
             there
             will
             be
             Stoves
             built
             there
             for
             the
             Galley-Slaves
             ,
             to
             lessen
             the
             Miseries
             they
             usually
             suffer
             in
             the
             Winter
             .
             This
             is
             the
             Place
             where
             the
             Galleys
             are
             built
             ,
             in
             a
             certain
             dry
             Ditch
             or
             Dock
             ,
             into
             which
             they
             can
             let
             as
             much
             Water
             as
             they
             please
             ,
             by
             a
             Sluce
             ;
             so
             that
             the
             Galley
             is
             immediately
             set
             a-float
             ,
             without
             the
             least
             Trouble
             in
             Lanching
             it
             .
             The
             Place
             of
             Arms
             ,
             of
             which
             I
             took
             notice
             before
             ,
             will
             be
             behind
             the
             Arsenal
             .
          
           
             There
             is
             not
             one
             fine
             Church
             in
             Marseilles
             ,
             but
             there
             are
             some
             very
             ancient
             .
             That
             of
             
               Nôtre-Dame
               des
               Accoules
            
             was
             formerly
             consecrated
             to
             Pallas
             ,
             that
             of
             
               S.
               Saviour
            
             to
             Apollo
             ,
             and
             the
             Cathedral
             or
             Church
             
               de
               la
               Major
            
             ,
             is
             said
             to
             have
             been
             a
             Temple
             of
             Diana
             .
             In
             the
             last
             the
             Body
             of
             S.
             Lazarus
             ,
             the
             first
             
             Bishop
             of
             this
             City
             ,
             is
             kept
             in
             a
             Silver
             Shrine
             ;
             and
             there
             are
             several
             other
             Holy
             Rarities
             both
             in
             this
             and
             S.
             Victor's
             Church
             ;
             where
             ,
             besides
             the
             Head
             of
             that
             Saint
             ,
             they
             preserve
             the
             True
             Cross
             of
             S.
             Andrew
             ,
             which
             is
             seven
             Foot
             long
             ,
             and
             consists
             of
             two
             Joists
             join'd
             cross-ways
             ,
             after
             the
             Figure
             of
             an
             X.
             Here
             is
             also
             a
             Grotto
             ,
             where
             
               Mary
               Magdalen
            
             did
             Penance
             for
             some
             time
             .
             The
             whole
             City
             is
             full
             of
             such
             Places
             ,
             but
             none
             of
             'em
             is
             so
             much
             respected
             as
             S.
             Baume
             ,
             where
             't
             is
             said
             she
             liv'd
             33
             Years
             .
             Notwithstanding
             all
             the
             Difficulties
             and
             discouraging
             Rubbs
             I
             met
             with
             in
             my
             Passage
             thro'
             the
             Mountains
             ,
             my
             Curiosity
             was
             still
             strong
             enough
             to
             oblige
             me
             to
             undertake
             a
             Pilgrimage
             to
             that
             Place
             ;
             and
             in
             my
             next
             you
             may
             expect
             an
             Account
             of
             the
             Observations
             I
             made
             there
             .
          
           
             I
             am
             ,
             
               SIR
               ,
            
             
               Your
               &c.
               
            
             
               Marseilles
               ,
               
                 Feb.
                 1690.
                 
              
            
          
        
         
           
             LETTER
             VIII
             .
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
          
           
             S.
             Baume
             is
             a
             Cave
             in
             the
             midst
             of
             a
             Rock
             ,
             which
             is
             so
             extremely
             high
             and
             steep
             ,
             that
             by
             taking
             a
             distant
             View
             of
             this
             Place
             ,
             you
             wou'd
             think
             it
             impossible
             to
             ascend
             to
             it
             .
             And
             certainly
             the
             Ascent
             was
             very
             difficult
             at
             first
             ,
             since
             at
             present
             ,
             tho'
             there
             are
             Steps
             very
             industriously
             cut
             out
             of
             the
             Rock
             ,
             it
             requires
             a
             Man's
             whole
             Skill
             and
             Agility
             to
             mount
             these
             artificial
             Stairs
             ,
             holding
             his
             Horse
             by
             the
             Bri●le
             ;
             and
             the
             Pleasure
             of
             arriving
             at
             the
             Top
             of
             'em
             
             is
             very
             considerably
             increas'd
             by
             the
             need
             one
             has
             of
             Rest
             .
             This
             Rock
             is
             the
             Top
             of
             the
             highest
             Mountain
             of
             Provence
             ,
             between
             Marseilles
             and
             Toulon
             ;
             and
             you
             must
             ascend
             continually
             for
             the
             space
             of
             two
             Hours
             ,
             before
             you
             can
             arrive
             at
             the
             Rock
             :
             The
             Cave
             is
             possess'd
             by
             certain
             Jacobin
             Friars
             ,
             sent
             thither
             by
             the
             Prior
             of
             S.
             Maximin
             ,
             who
             allows
             each
             of
             'em
             a
             Thousand
             Livres
             a
             Year
             for
             their
             Maintenance
             ,
             without
             reckoning
             their
             Masses
             :
             And
             I
             'm
             confident
             they
             cannot
             spare
             much
             out
             of
             so
             considerable
             a
             Revenue
             ,
             since
             they
             are
             oblig'd
             to
             be
             at
             a
             vast
             and
             almost
             daily
             Charge
             for
             the
             Carriage
             of
             such
             things
             as
             are
             necessary
             for
             their
             Subsistence
             ,
             the
             Situation
             of
             the
             Place
             not
             permitting
             'em
             to
             lay
             up
             great
             store
             of
             Provisions
             .
             On
             the
             right
             side
             of
             the
             Entrance
             into
             the
             Cave
             ,
             they
             have
             taken
             Advantage
             of
             a
             piece
             of
             the
             Rock
             that
             jutts
             out
             beyond
             the
             rest
             of
             it
             ,
             to
             contrive
             a
             little
             Convent
             ,
             consisting
             of
             seventeen
             Cells
             ,
             and
             three
             double
             Chambers
             ,
             which
             are
             appointed
             for
             the
             King
             ,
             the
             Bishop
             ,
             and
             the
             Governour
             of
             the
             Province
             ,
             or
             at
             least
             are
             call'd
             by
             their
             Names
             .
             On
             the
             other
             side
             of
             the
             Entry
             there
             is
             an
             Inn
             ,
             where
             we
             paid
             dear
             for
             what
             we
             eat
             ,
             besides
             the
             Chaplets
             and
             Medals
             with
             which
             my
             Companions
             loaded
             themselves
             .
             'T
             is
             Morally
             impossible
             that
             ever
             any
             Person
             cou'd
             have
             liv'd
             in
             this
             Cave
             as
             many
             Days
             as
             
               Mary
               Magdalen
            
             ,
             according
             to
             the
             Tradition
             ,
             liv'd
             Years
             in
             it
             ,
             by
             reason
             of
             the
             extreme
             Coldness
             and
             Moistness
             of
             the
             place
             ,
             occasion'd
             by
             the
             continual
             dropping
             of
             Water
             from
             the
             impending
             Rock
             ,
             which
             falls
             in
             such
             abundance
             ,
             that
             it
             fills
             a
             kind
             of
             Well
             or
             Cistern
             below
             .
             The
             Monks
             pretend
             that
             this
             perpetual
             dropping
             is
             a
             miraculous
             Emblem
             of
             the
             Tears
             which
             that
             Saint
             shed
             in
             this
             place
             ;
             and
             that
             't
             is
             naturally
             impossible
             for
             Water
             to
             spring
             out
             of
             so
             high
             a
             Rock
             .
             This
             is
             
             a
             Philosophical
             Question
             ,
             which
             you
             may
             determine
             at
             your
             leisure
             ;
             for
             I
             'm
             resolv'd
             to
             say
             nothing
             on
             this
             Subject
             that
             may
             prepossess
             your
             Judgment
             .
          
           
             In
             the
             bottom
             of
             the
             Cave
             there
             is
             a
             little
             Rock
             ,
             about
             three
             Foot
             high
             ,
             which
             I
             vehemently
             suspect
             to
             be
             Artificial
             ;
             for
             't
             is
             exactly
             contriv'd
             like
             a
             Bed
             ,
             with
             the
             resemblance
             of
             a
             Bolster
             ,
             as
             if
             it
             had
             been
             made
             on
             purpose
             for
             that
             use
             .
             'T
             is
             inclos'd
             with
             a
             great
             Iron
             Grate
             ,
             which
             the
             Monks
             open
             ,
             that
             the
             Spectators
             may
             have
             a
             full
             View
             of
             the
             Saint's
             Image
             of
             Marble
             ,
             painted
             and
             gilt
             :
             She
             is
             laid
             at
             her
             full
             length
             ,
             her
             Head
             leaning
             on
             her
             Right-hand
             ,
             and
             in
             her
             other
             holding
             the
             Pix
             ,
             in
             which
             she
             kept
             consecrated
             Wafers
             or
             Hosts
             .
             This
             Image
             is
             much
             bigger
             than
             the
             Life
             ,
             being
             seven
             Foot
             long
             ;
             and
             yet
             they
             pretend
             that
             't
             is
             an
             exact
             imitation
             both
             of
             her
             Face
             and
             Stature
             .
             'T
             is
             strange
             that
             the
             Scripture
             shou'd
             neither
             mention
             her
             unusual
             Bigness
             ,
             her
             Quality
             ,
             (
             for
             they
             say
             she
             was
             a
             Princess
             )
             nor
             her
             Voyage
             :
             And
             't
             is
             still
             more
             surprizing
             ,
             that
             a
             Woman
             of
             her
             Stature
             cou'd
             charm
             such
             a
             Croud
             of
             Lovers
             :
             I
             know
             not
             whether
             the
             Men
             of
             her
             Age
             had
             a
             particular
             Inclination
             to
             Court
             Giantesses
             ;
             but
             I
             question
             very
             much
             whether
             such
             a
             
               Bouncing
               Girl
            
             wou'd
             find
             so
             many
             Admirers
             among
             us
             .
          
           
             After
             a
             Traveller
             has
             satisfy'd
             his
             Curiosity
             with
             a
             View
             of
             all
             these
             Rarities
             ,
             it
             is
             the
             usual
             Custom
             to
             go
             up
             to
             the
             Top
             of
             the
             Rock
             ,
             call'd
             S.
             Pilon
             ,
             whither
             that
             Saint
             was
             carried
             seven
             times
             a
             Day
             by
             the
             Angels
             ,
             that
             she
             might
             have
             the
             Convenience
             of
             saying
             her
             Prayers
             at
             that
             Place
             .
             I
             will
             not
             detain
             you
             with
             the
             particular
             Relation
             of
             the
             rest
             of
             her
             Adventures
             :
             But
             since
             ,
             perhaps
             ,
             you
             may
             not
             be
             unwilling
             to
             know
             how
             ,
             and
             by
             what
             odd
             Accident
             she
             came
             to
             this
             Place
             ,
             
             I
             shall
             give
             you
             a
             short
             Account
             of
             that
             part
             of
             her
             History
             .
             After
             our
             Saviour's
             Ascension
             ,
             there
             arose
             a
             violent
             Persecution
             against
             his
             Disciples
             ,
             as
             you
             may
             see
             at
             length
             in
             the
             
               Acts
               of
               the
               Apostles
            
             :
             Among
             the
             rest
             ,
             the
             Family
             of
             S.
             Lazarus
             was
             involv'd
             in
             the
             common
             Calamity
             ;
             but
             the
             Jews
             ,
             unwilling
             to
             make
             Persons
             of
             Quality
             suffer
             the
             utmost
             Severities
             that
             were
             usually
             inflicted
             on
             others
             ,
             instead
             of
             putting
             'em
             to
             Death
             ,
             plac'd
             Lazarus
             and
             his
             Sister
             ,
             S.
             Maximin
             ,
             and
             some
             others
             ,
             whose
             Names
             I
             do
             not
             remember
             ,
             in
             a
             Bark
             ,
             without
             Oars
             ,
             Rudder
             ,
             or
             Sails
             ,
             abandoning
             'em
             to
             the
             Mercy
             of
             the
             Winds
             ,
             which
             by
             the
             Providence
             of
             God
             ,
             brought
             'em
             into
             the
             Port
             of
             Marseilles
             ,
             where
             they
             spent
             several
             Years
             in
             Preaching
             the
             Gospel
             :
             Their
             Memory
             is
             preserv'd
             to
             this
             Day
             ,
             by
             a
             great
             number
             of
             Chapels
             erected
             in
             the
             places
             where
             't
             is
             pretended
             the
             He
             and
             She
             Saints
             usually
             pronounc'd
             their
             Sermons
             ;
             which
             had
             such
             a
             prevailing
             Influence
             on
             their
             Hearers
             ,
             that
             the
             whole
             City
             was
             converted
             .
             After
             such
             happy
             Success
             ,
             S.
             Lazarus
             was
             made
             Bishop
             ,
             and
             
               Mary
               Magdalen
            
             went
             to
             do
             Penance
             in
             the
             horrid
             Cave
             of
             S.
             Baume
             .
             Her
             Head
             ,
             and
             one
             of
             her
             Arms
             are
             kept
             at
             S.
             Maximin
             ,
             amongst
             a
             great
             number
             of
             fine
             Relicks
             :
             Her
             Head
             is
             enchas'd
             in
             a
             kind
             of
             Bust
             of
             Gold
             ,
             ending
             a
             little
             below
             her
             Shoulders
             ,
             and
             enrich'd
             with
             a
             great
             number
             of
             very
             fine
             Jewels
             ,
             among
             which
             there
             is
             an
             admirable
             Ruby
             ,
             equalling
             a
             Man's
             Thumb
             both
             in
             Length
             and
             Breadth
             :
             This
             Bust
             was
             presented
             by
             Charles
             II.
             King
             of
             Switzerland
             ,
             Count
             of
             Provence
             .
             The
             whole
             Face
             of
             this
             Head
             is
             expos'd
             to
             view
             ,
             contrary
             to
             the
             Custom
             of
             other
             Places
             ,
             where
             the
             Shrine
             is
             only
             show'd
             ,
             and
             the
             Spectator
             must
             imploy
             his
             Faith
             ,
             if
             it
             be
             strong
             enough
             ,
             to
             discover
             the
             Relicks
             :
             But
             here
             one
             may
             distinctly
             perceive
             a
             Death's-Head
             of
             so
             vast
             a
             size
             ,
             
             that
             if
             it
             be
             
               Mary
               Magdalen's
            
             ,
             we
             cannot
             justly
             refuse
             our
             Assent
             to
             the
             Tradition
             ,
             that
             assures
             us
             of
             the
             unusual
             Bulkiness
             of
             the
             rest
             of
             her
             Body
             .
             Our
             Guide
             made
             us
             observe
             a
             little
             dry
             Scurf
             about
             the
             middle
             of
             her
             Forehead
             ,
             somewhat
             towards
             her
             Left
             Eye
             ,
             and
             told
             us
             ,
             that
             this
             was
             the
             place
             where
             our
             Saviour
             put
             his
             Finger
             ,
             when
             ,
             after
             his
             Resurrection
             ,
             he
             said
             to
             her
             ,
             *
             
               Touch
               me
               not
            
             ,
             &c.
             
             But
             since
             I
             had
             never
             observ'd
             in
             the
             Scripture
             ,
             that
             Christ
             put
             his
             Finger
             on
             her
             Forehead
             ,
             when
             he
             spake
             these
             Words
             ,
             I
             ask'd
             a
             Father
             where
             I
             might
             find
             that
             Passage
             :
             He
             told
             me
             that
             it
             was
             a
             Holy
             Tradition
             of
             the
             Church
             ,
             which
             I
             was
             oblig'd
             to
             believe
             ,
             under
             pain
             of
             Heresie
             ;
             adding
             ,
             upon
             the
             Authority
             of
             the
             same
             Tradition
             ,
             That
             during
             the
             Forty
             Days
             which
             Christ
             spent
             with
             his
             Disciples
             after
             his
             Resurrection
             †
             ,
             he
             never
             touch'd
             any
             thing
             but
             this
             part
             of
             
               Mary
               Magdalen's
            
             Forehead
             ,
             and
             S.
             Thomas's
             Hand
             ,
             both
             which
             remain
             entire
             to
             this
             Day
             .
          
           
             This
             Head
             is
             preserv'd
             in
             a
             Subterraneous
             Cave
             ,
             clos'd
             with
             four
             Iron
             Doors
             ;
             and
             we
             were
             told
             ,
             that
             the
             Bodies
             of
             S.
             Magdalen
             ,
             S.
             Maximin
             ,
             S.
             Marcellus
             ,
             and
             S.
             Sidonius
             ,
             were
             put
             into
             four
             Marble
             Sepulchres
             ,
             that
             are
             still
             to
             be
             seen
             in
             this
             Cave
             ,
             which
             was
             contriv'd
             on
             purpose
             for
             their
             Burying-place
             ;
             but
             that
             these
             Holy
             Bodies
             were
             afterwards
             more
             honourably
             lodg'd
             .
             In
             the
             same
             Cave
             ,
             or
             Subterraneous
             Chapel
             ,
             they
             shew
             also
             a
             little
             Glass
             Vial
             ,
             containing
             certain
             small
             Flints
             that
             were
             moistened
             with
             the
             Blood
             that
             our
             Saviour
             shed
             upon
             the
             Cross
             ;
             endeavouring
             to
             make
             the
             Spectatours
             
             believe
             that
             the
             Blood
             is
             still
             visible
             ;
             but
             whatever
             care
             I
             took
             to
             consider
             these
             Flints
             with
             all
             imaginable
             Attention
             ,
             I
             cou'd
             not
             perceive
             the
             least
             Tincture
             of
             Blood.
             Coming
             up
             from
             hence
             ,
             we
             were
             desir'd
             to
             take
             Notice
             of
             a
             Shrine
             of
             Porphyrie
             ,
             which
             contains
             the
             rest
             of
             that
             Saint's
             Bones
             ,
             except
             one
             of
             her
             Arms
             ,
             which
             is
             enchas'd
             in
             Silver
             ,
             and
             suitable
             in
             bigness
             to
             the
             Head
             :
             Her
             Flaxen
             Hair
             is
             in
             another
             Reliquary
             :
             And
             there
             are
             in
             the
             same
             place
             many
             other
             Rarities
             of
             this
             Nature
             ,
             which
             't
             wou'd
             be
             too
             tedious
             to
             enumerate
             .
          
           
             The
             Church
             that
             belongs
             to
             this
             Convent
             ,
             is
             large
             ,
             well
             lighted
             ,
             and
             very
             much
             esteem'd
             for
             its
             Architecture
             .
             The
             Inside
             is
             adorn'd
             with
             several
             fine
             Marble
             Columns
             ,
             especially
             the
             great
             Altar
             ,
             which
             was
             built
             by
             Lewis
             XIII
             .
             in
             performance
             of
             a
             Vow
             ;
             and
             is
             reckon'd
             one
             of
             the
             largest
             ,
             and
             most
             magnificent
             Altars
             in
             France
             .
             All
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             Church
             is
             cover'd
             with
             Paintings
             ,
             by
             the
             most
             celebrated
             Hands
             ,
             which
             are
             also
             the
             Effects
             of
             Vows
             :
             And
             every
             Altar
             is
             enrich'd
             with
             all
             sorts
             of
             Vessels
             ,
             Candlesticks
             ,
             Lamps
             ,
             and
             other
             Ornaments
             of
             Gold
             and
             Silver
             ,
             in
             great
             abundance
             .
             This
             Church
             was
             built
             by
             Charles
             ,
             Duke
             of
             Anjou
             ,
             King
             of
             Sicily
             ,
             who
             endow'd
             it
             with
             a
             very
             plentiful
             Revenue
             ;
             and
             the
             Foundation
             being
             since
             encreas'd
             by
             the
             Piety
             of
             our
             Kings
             ,
             there
             is
             a
             very
             honourable
             Maintenance
             for
             Fifty
             Monks
             who
             live
             here
             .
          
           
             I
             'm
             afraid
             the
             Holiness
             of
             the
             Place
             will
             scarce
             make
             amends
             for
             my
             detaining
             you
             so
             long
             at
             S.
             Baume
             ;
             and
             therefore
             since
             a
             change
             of
             Entertainment
             is
             always
             very
             acceptable
             to
             a
             cloy'd
             Appetite
             ,
             I
             hope
             you
             will
             have
             the
             less
             Reluctancy
             to
             accompany
             me
             in
             a
             little
             Journey
             to
             Arles
             and
             Nismes
             ,
             where
             you
             might
             divert
             your self
             with
             a
             View
             of
             those
             Admirable
             Antiquities
             ,
             and
             
             Illustrious
             Monuments
             of
             the
             Roman
             Grandeur
             that
             are
             to
             be
             seen
             in
             those
             places
             .
          
           
             Arles
             is
             a
             City
             of
             Provence
             ,
             and
             was
             formerly
             the
             Metropolis
             of
             a
             Kingdom
             of
             the
             same
             Name
             .
             'T
             was
             adorn'd
             by
             its
             old
             Masters
             ,
             the
             Romans
             ,
             with
             Temples
             ,
             Palaces
             ,
             Amphitheatres
             ,
             and
             other
             magnificent
             Works
             ,
             most
             of
             which
             were
             ruin'd
             in
             the
             succeeding
             Revolutions
             .
             The
             Amphitheatre
             ,
             commonly
             call'd
             
               les
               Arrenes
            
             ,
             has
             escap'd
             the
             Fate
             of
             the
             rest
             ,
             tho'
             not
             so
             well
             as
             that
             of
             Nîmes
             ;
             for
             't
             is
             impossible
             to
             walk
             on
             the
             Top
             from
             one
             end
             to
             the
             other
             ;
             so
             that
             I
             cou'd
             not
             measure
             its
             Length
             and
             Breadth
             .
          
           
             The
             Town-House
             is
             very
             remarkable
             ,
             both
             for
             its
             Structure
             and
             Antiquities
             :
             Among
             the
             rest
             there
             is
             a
             Marble
             Statue
             of
             Diana
             ,
             which
             formerly
             pronounc'd
             Oracles
             to
             those
             who
             came
             to
             consult
             her
             in
             her
             Temple
             ,
             which
             was
             seated
             in
             the
             same
             place
             where
             the
             Town-House
             stands
             at
             present
             ,
             as
             appears
             by
             the
             Foundations
             that
             are
             under
             the
             Clock-Tower
             .
             All
             the
             Walls
             of
             the
             City
             are
             full
             of
             pieces
             of
             Statues
             ,
             Cornices
             ,
             and
             Columns
             ,
             which
             give
             the
             Spectatour
             a
             great
             Idea
             of
             the
             Number
             and
             Beauty
             of
             its
             Ancient
             Ornaments
             .
             Among
             its
             finest
             Antiquities
             ,
             I
             may
             justly
             reckon
             that
             admirable
             Obelisk
             which
             some
             Years
             ago
             was
             found
             entire
             in
             the
             Ground
             ,
             and
             was
             since
             erected
             to
             the
             Glory
             of
             
               Lewis
               the
               Great
            
             ,
             by
             the
             Care
             and
             Contrivance
             of
             the
             Gentlemen
             of
             the
             
               Royal
               Academy
            
             ,
             with
             very
             beautiful
             Inscriptions
             on
             the
             Pedestal
             ,
             both
             in
             Latine
             and
             French
             ;
             and
             a
             
               Golden
               Sun
            
             on
             the
             Top
             ,
             which
             you
             know
             is
             the
             King's
             Emblem
             ,
             and
             the
             Soul
             of
             his
             Device
             .
             This
             Obelisk
             wants
             the
             usual
             Ornament
             of
             Monuments
             of
             that
             Nature
             ,
             and
             ,
             at
             least
             in
             this
             respect
             may
             be
             justly
             esteem'd
             a
             Rarity
             .
             But
             tho'
             there
             are
             no
             Hieroglyphical
             Figures
             upon
             it
             ,
             to
             determine
             its
             Age
             ,
             and
             discover
             its
             first
             Contrivers
             ,
             
             't
             is
             generally
             reputed
             a
             Work
             of
             the
             Egyptians
             .
             I
             know
             not
             whether
             the
             same
             Opinion
             will
             prevail
             in
             After-Ages
             ;
             for
             perhaps
             Posterity
             viewing
             the
             Inscriptions
             that
             have
             been
             lately
             added
             to
             it
             ,
             will
             do
             our
             Age
             the
             Honour
             to
             believe
             that
             't
             was
             capable
             of
             Undertaking
             and
             Finishing
             such
             Works
             ;
             if
             they
             be
             not
             kept
             from
             falling
             into
             that
             Errour
             ,
             by
             the
             Consideration
             of
             the
             Granite
             of
             which
             't
             is
             built
             .
          
           
             This
             City
             is
             the
             Seat
             of
             an
             Archbishop
             ,
             and
             of
             an
             Academy
             of
             Ingenious
             Persons
             ,
             under
             the
             Name
             of
             the
             
               Royal
               Academy
               of
               Arles
            
             ;
             to
             whom
             the
             Publick
             must
             own
             it self
             oblig'd
             for
             many
             Curious
             and
             Learned
             Treatises
             .
             'T
             is
             situated
             on
             the
             Rhône
             ,
             at
             the
             distance
             of
             seven
             Leagues
             from
             its
             Mouth
             :
             But
             no
             Ship
             ,
             nor
             great
             Bark
             ,
             can
             come
             up
             to
             the
             City
             ,
             by
             reason
             of
             the
             Banks
             of
             Sand
             with
             which
             that
             River
             is
             pester'd
             .
          
           
             Having
             satisfy'd
             my
             Curiosity
             at
             Arles
             ,
             I
             resolv'd
             to
             visit
             Nismes
             ,
             one
             of
             the
             most
             remarkable
             Cities
             in
             Languedoc
             ,
             for
             its
             Trade
             ,
             Antiquity
             ,
             and
             I
             may
             also
             add
             ,
             for
             its
             Largeness
             ,
             tho'
             't
             is
             at
             present
             much
             less
             considerable
             in
             that
             respect
             than
             when
             (
             if
             we
             may
             give
             credit
             to
             History
             )
             't
             was
             founded
             by
             Marius
             ,
             who
             chose
             this
             for
             the
             place
             of
             his
             Residence
             ,
             and
             built
             it
             in
             imitation
             of
             Rome
             ,
             observing
             an
             exact
             Equality
             in
             the
             Dimensions
             of
             the
             New
             City
             ,
             as
             well
             as
             in
             its
             Publick
             Places
             and
             Buildings
             .
             But
             Time
             ,
             that
             impartial
             Destroyer
             of
             all
             things
             ,
             has
             made
             so
             many
             Alterations
             in
             both
             these
             Illustrious
             Cities
             ,
             that
             at
             present
             there
             is
             not
             the
             least
             Resemblance
             between
             '
             em
             .
          
           
             The
             principal
             Monument
             of
             Antiquity
             at
             Nismes
             ,
             is
             its
             Amphitheatre
             ,
             the
             largest
             and
             most
             entire
             Structure
             of
             that
             Nature
             that
             is
             at
             present
             to
             be
             seen
             in
             any
             part
             of
             the
             World.
             I
             cannot
             forbear
             complaining
             that
             Private
             Persons
             are
             suffer'd
             to
             fill
             it
             with
             Houses
             ,
             which
             quite
             take
             away
             
             the
             Prospect
             of
             it
             ,
             and
             consequently
             all
             its
             Beauty
             ;
             whereas
             if
             it
             were
             still
             empty
             ,
             as
             when
             't
             was
             possess'd
             by
             the
             Romans
             ,
             all
             the
             Curious
             part
             of
             the
             World
             wou'd
             come
             to
             admire
             the
             Magnificence
             of
             its
             Structure
             .
             'T
             is
             of
             a
             perfectly
             round
             or
             circular
             Figure
             ,
             having
             only
             one
             Door
             ,
             with
             a
             Tower
             on
             each
             side
             of
             it
             :
             It
             contains
             150
             Paces
             in
             Diameter
             ,
             and
             its
             Circumference
             amounts
             to
             460.
             
             The
             Inside
             of
             the
             Circle
             is
             Pyramidal
             ,
             in
             form
             of
             Stairs
             ,
             where
             the
             People
             sate
             to
             behold
             the
             Fights
             of
             Beasts
             ,
             and
             other
             Publick
             Sights
             ;
             and
             below
             there
             are
             very
             fair
             vaulted
             Galleries
             ,
             where
             the
             Spectatours
             might
             walk
             till
             the
             Shows
             began
             .
             This
             lower
             Story
             is
             adorn'd
             with
             fine
             Columns
             ,
             with
             their
             Cornices
             ;
             and
             from
             place
             to
             place
             there
             are
             Heads
             of
             Animals
             ,
             Eagles
             and
             Fasces
             in
             Relief
             .
             The
             whole
             Amphitheatre
             is
             built
             of
             large
             Free-Stones
             ,
             some
             of
             which
             are
             three
             Foot
             square
             on
             all
             sides
             ;
             and
             particularly
             those
             on
             the
             Top
             of
             the
             Building
             .
          
           
             We
             went
             out
             at
             the
             Gate
             
               la
               Bouquerie
            
             ,
             to
             see
             the
             famous
             Temple
             of
             Diana
             ,
             where
             that
             Goddess
             pronounc'd
             her
             Oracles
             .
             'T
             is
             an
             exact
             Square
             ,
             the
             length
             of
             each
             side
             amounting
             to
             Seventy
             Paces
             :
             The
             Door
             is
             round
             ,
             ten
             Foot
             broad
             ,
             and
             fifteen
             high
             .
             This
             is
             a
             very
             Massive
             Edifice
             ,
             according
             to
             the
             ancient
             manner
             of
             Building
             ,
             and
             consists
             of
             Stones
             as
             large
             as
             those
             of
             the
             Amphitheatre
             ;
             so
             that
             it
             might
             serve
             for
             a
             Fort
             in
             Case
             of
             Necessity
             ,
             and
             even
             might
             hold
             out
             for
             some
             time
             against
             Cannon
             .
          
           
             Not
             far
             from
             thence
             there
             is
             another
             no
             less
             remarkable
             Structure
             ,
             call'd
             ,
             
               la
               Tour
               Magne
            
             ,
             which
             we
             may
             reasonably
             conclude
             to
             have
             been
             design'd
             for
             a
             Mausolaeum
             ,
             and
             built
             in
             imitation
             ,
             tho'
             not
             after
             the
             Model
             ,
             of
             the
             Egyptian
             Monuments
             .
             'T
             is
             a
             high
             and
             solid
             Pyramidal
             Tower
             ,
             without
             any
             Vault
             or
             Concavity
             ;
             and
             there
             are
             
             Steps
             made
             round
             it
             ,
             by
             which
             one
             may
             ascend
             to
             the
             Top
             ,
             tho'
             not
             without
             Danger
             ;
             for
             they
             are
             extremely
             worn
             and
             broken
             in
             several
             places
             ;
             so
             that
             I
             chose
             rather
             to
             content
             my self
             with
             viewing
             it
             from
             below
             ,
             than
             to
             run
             the
             hazard
             of
             going
             up
             .
             From
             thence
             I
             return'd
             to
             the
             City
             ,
             and
             went
             to
             see
             an
             old
             Palace
             ,
             call'd
             ,
             
               The
               Square
               House
            
             ,
             which
             at
             present
             is
             the
             Dwelling-House
             of
             a
             Private
             Person
             .
             'T
             is
             much
             longer
             than
             broad
             ,
             built
             with
             great
             Free-Stones
             ,
             and
             adorn'd
             on
             the
             Outside
             with
             several
             fine
             Columns
             ,
             with
             their
             Bases
             and
             Cornices
             .
             Some
             think
             this
             House
             was
             formerly
             the
             Praetorium
             ,
             or
             Hall
             of
             Judgment
             ;
             but
             others
             are
             of
             opinion
             that
             't
             was
             the
             Capitol
             of
             Nismes
             .
          
           
             This
             City
             is
             full
             of
             People
             of
             Quality
             and
             Breeding
             ;
             and
             tho'
             there
             is
             so
             small
             a
             distance
             between
             it
             and
             Provence
             ,
             I
             can
             assure
             you
             ,
             that
             their
             Customs
             are
             not
             only
             different
             but
             opposite
             ;
             and
             instead
             of
             that
             Scorn
             and
             Contempt
             with
             which
             Frenchmen
             are
             treated
             at
             Marseilles
             ,
             here
             they
             are
             entertain'd
             with
             all
             imaginable
             Civility
             ,
             and
             with
             the
             highest
             Marks
             of
             Love
             and
             Friendship
             .
             You
             wou'd
             hardly
             give
             Credit
             to
             some
             Instances
             of
             this
             Nature
             which
             I
             cou'd
             relate
             to
             you
             :
             The
             Ladies
             take
             pleasure
             to
             accost
             a
             Stranger
             whom
             they
             find
             walking
             alone
             ;
             Their
             Conversation
             is
             accompany'd
             with
             all
             the
             Sprightliness
             and
             innocent
             Freedom
             that
             can
             be
             desir'd
             .
             For
             tho'
             they
             have
             as
             tender
             a
             Regard
             to
             their
             Honour
             as
             any
             of
             their
             Sex
             in
             France
             ;
             their
             Vertue
             is
             not
             barbarous
             and
             inhumane
             ;
             and
             provided
             a
             Man
             have
             an
             Inclination
             to
             Love
             ,
             and
             be
             Master
             of
             a
             competent
             Stock
             of
             Merit
             ,
             join'd
             with
             some
             external
             Accomplishments
             ,
             he
             may
             venture
             to
             ingage
             with
             those
             favourable
             Enemies
             with
             almost
             certain
             Hopes
             of
             Success
             .
             I
             have
             heard
             a
             hundred
             Relations
             of
             such
             amorous
             Adventures
             of
             Strangers
             ,
             who
             taking
             Fire
             at
             first
             sight
             ,
             were
             afterwards
             bless'd
             with
             the
             Possession
             
             of
             the
             Object
             of
             their
             Flames
             ;
             and
             preserving
             their
             Love
             after
             Marriage
             ,
             had
             never
             any
             Reason
             to
             repent
             of
             the
             Suddenness
             of
             their
             Choice
             .
             For
             if
             I
             might
             depend
             upon
             the
             Character
             I
             have
             receiv'd
             of
             the
             Ladies
             of
             Languedoc
             ,
             and
             't
             is
             almost
             impossible
             for
             one
             who
             has
             convers'd
             with
             'em
             to
             doubt
             of
             the
             Truth
             of
             it
             ;
             a
             Man
             cannot
             trust
             his
             Heart
             in
             better
             Hands
             ,
             nor
             make
             a
             more
             advantageous
             Resignation
             of
             his
             Liberty
             .
             They
             are
             naturally
             Loving
             ,
             Complaisant
             ,
             and
             Constant
             even
             to
             Death
             ;
             and
             besides
             they
             are
             generally
             of
             a
             very
             pleasant
             Humour
             ,
             and
             all
             their
             Actions
             are
             accompany'd
             with
             a
             certain
             Amorous
             Air
             that
             seems
             always
             to
             demand
             a
             Heart
             ,
             and
             puts
             it
             out
             of
             the
             Owner's
             Power
             to
             refuse
             it
             .
             'T
             is
             not
             without
             an
             extreme
             Displeasure
             that
             I
             must
             content
             my self
             with
             relating
             what
             I
             heard
             on
             this
             Occasion
             ,
             and
             that
             I
             cannot
             add
             my
             own
             Experience
             to
             the
             Testimony
             of
             others
             ;
             but
             I
             cannot
             pretend
             to
             the
             Happiness
             of
             those
             who
             find
             Fortune
             ready
             to
             compliment
             'em
             with
             a
             Mistress
             at
             their
             first
             Arrival
             :
             and
             since
             the
             main
             Design
             of
             my
             Travels
             wou'd
             not
             suffer
             me
             to
             stay
             long
             in
             this
             Place
             ,
             I
             saw
             my self
             depriv'd
             of
             a
             Pleasure
             of
             which
             I
             had
             conceiv'd
             so
             agreeable
             an
             Idea
             ,
             and
             left
             with
             an
             extreme
             Reluctancy
             ,
             that
             lovely
             Country
             ,
             where
             the
             Customs
             and
             Manner
             of
             Living
             are
             so
             suitable
             to
             my
             Genius
             and
             Inclinations
             .
             But
             at
             my
             Return
             to
             this
             Place
             I
             was
             somewhat
             comforted
             by
             a
             late
             Instance
             of
             the
             Misfortunes
             of
             Love
             ,
             and
             my
             Grief
             was
             in
             some
             measure
             abated
             ,
             when
             I
             reflected
             on
             all
             the
             Troubles
             and
             Disasters
             that
             usually
             attend
             a
             Passion
             from
             which
             we
             expect
             nothing
             but
             the
             Enjoyment
             of
             undisturb'd
             Delight
             and
             Satisfaction
             .
          
           
             Two
             Young
             Pilgrims
             betwixt
             the
             Age
             of
             Twenty
             and
             Twenty
             two
             Years
             ,
             pass'd
             thro'
             this
             City
             about
             three
             Months
             ago
             ,
             and
             like
             the
             rest
             of
             those
             miserable
             Wanderers
             ,
             who
             rove
             about
             the
             World
             
             under
             the
             Protection
             of
             a
             Pilgrim's
             Staff
             ,
             were
             constrain'd
             to
             take
             up
             their
             Lodging
             at
             the
             Hospital
             
               de
               la
               Charité
            
             ,
             where
             one
             of
             'em
             ,
             not
             longer
             able
             to
             endure
             the
             Fatigues
             ,
             Cold
             ,
             Hunger
             ,
             and
             perpetual
             Want
             of
             every
             thing
             that
             is
             necessary
             for
             Life
             ,
             sunk
             at
             last
             under
             such
             an
             insupportable
             Load
             of
             Misery
             ,
             and
             fell
             into
             a
             Fever
             ,
             accompany'd
             with
             so
             great
             a
             Weakness
             ,
             that
             the
             Surgeons
             began
             to
             despair
             of
             his
             Recovery
             .
             His
             Companion
             seeing
             him
             in
             this
             Condition
             ,
             was
             so
             overwhelm'd
             with
             Sorrow
             ,
             that
             the
             very
             Servants
             of
             the
             Hospital
             ,
             who
             were
             wont
             to
             be
             unconcern'd
             Spectators
             of
             such
             Accidents
             ,
             were
             touch'd
             with
             Compassion
             :
             He
             never
             stirr'd
             from
             his
             sick
             Friend's
             Bed-side
             ,
             gave
             him
             his
             Broth
             ,
             serv'd
             him
             with
             a
             wonderful
             Zeal
             and
             Assiduity
             ,
             and
             wou'd
             not
             suffer
             any
             other
             to
             come
             near
             him
             .
             The
             sick
             Person
             ,
             on
             the
             other
             side
             ,
             was
             not
             pleas'd
             with
             any
             thing
             but
             what
             came
             from
             the
             Hands
             of
             his
             belov'd
             Companion
             ,
             and
             receiv'd
             his
             Services
             with
             all
             the
             Marks
             of
             Gratitude
             ,
             and
             of
             a
             most
             tender
             Affection
             .
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             the
             Sickness
             of
             the
             one
             ,
             and
             the
             Grief
             of
             the
             other
             were
             daily
             and
             equally
             augmented
             :
             The
             disconsolate
             Mourner
             embrac'd
             his
             dying
             Friend
             every
             Moment
             ,
             and
             bath'd
             his
             Face
             with
             Tears
             .
             At
             last
             ,
             on
             the
             Ninth
             Day
             ,
             the
             Feaver
             was
             succeeded
             by
             a
             violent
             Crisis
             ,
             and
             the
             sick
             Pilgrim
             ,
             after
             some
             Convulsions
             ,
             fell
             into
             a
             Swoon
             ,
             and
             was
             thought
             to
             be
             dead
             .
             His
             Friend
             then
             losing
             all
             Patience
             ,
             gave
             himself
             up
             entirely
             to
             the
             Excess
             of
             his
             Grief
             ,
             and
             throwing
             himself
             upon
             the
             dear
             Body
             ,
             with
             the
             Transports
             of
             a
             Despair
             ,
             that
             melted
             the
             Hearts
             of
             all
             the
             Assistants
             ,
             burst
             forth
             into
             Lamentations
             ,
             which
             discover'd
             his
             secret
             ,
             and
             made
             'em
             know
             that
             the
             Person
             whom
             they
             hitherto
             treated
             as
             a
             poor
             Pilgrim
             ,
             was
             a
             young
             Lady
             :
             
               Alas
               !
               my
               dear
               N
               ...
            
             cry'd
             he
             ,
             
               Thou
               art
               no
               more
               !
               Thy
               fair
               Eyes
               are
               shut
               for
               ever
               !
               'T
               is
               done
               —
               
               Thou
               hast
               lost
               thy
               dear
               Life
               ,
               and
               't
               is
               I
               who
               have
               robb'd
               thee
               of
               it
               .
               Ah!
               my
               Love
               !
               my
               Soul
               !
            
             continu'd
             he
             ,
             
               thou
               hast
               paid
               dear
               for
               thy
               Love
               to
               me
               ,
               who
               am
               the
               wretched
               occasion
               of
               thy
               Death
               in
               thy
               most
               blooming
               Age.
               Ah!
               fatal
               Love
               !
               cruel
               Parents
               !
               unfortunate
               ,
               and
               too-loving
               Daughter
               !
            
             These
             ,
             and
             such-like
             Exclamations
             he
             utter'd
             with
             unconceivable
             Despair
             ,
             for
             the
             space
             of
             a
             quarter
             of
             an
             Hour
             ;
             after
             which
             ,
             perceiving
             that
             she
             show'd
             some
             Signs
             of
             Life
             ,
             he
             sent
             immediately
             for
             a
             Physician
             ,
             and
             throwing
             himself
             at
             his
             Feet
             ,
             Sir
             ,
             said
             he
             ,
             
               I
               conjure
               you
               by
               all
               that
               is
               dear
               to
               you
               in
               the
               World
               ,
               refuse
               not
               your
               Assistance
               to
               this
               young
               Maid
               :
               She
               is
               a
               Person
               of
               Quality
               ,
               and
               deserves
               your
               utmost
               Care
               for
               her
               Preservation
               :
               Leave
               no
               Means
               unattempted
               ;
               spare
               no
               Cost
               ,
               Sir
               ,
               I
               beseech
               you
               ,
               and
               be
               confident
               that
               you
               shall
               not
               lose
               your
               Labour
               ;
               you
               shall
               have
               whatever
               you
               please
               to
               demand
               ;
               take
               my
               promise
               ,
               and
               you
               shall
               find
               me
               to
               be
               a
               Man
               of
               Honour
               .
            
             The
             Physician
             being
             mov'd
             with
             Compassion
             ,
             assur'd
             him
             that
             the
             sick
             Person
             shou'd
             not
             Perish
             by
             his
             Neglect
             :
             And
             after
             he
             had
             administer'd
             such
             Remedies
             as
             were
             most
             necessary
             in
             her
             present
             Condition
             ,
             he
             begg'd
             her
             Lover
             to
             inform
             him
             who
             they
             were
             ,
             and
             by
             what
             Accident
             they
             fell
             into
             such
             deplorable
             Circumstances
             .
             The
             young
             Man
             told
             him
             ,
             that
             he
             was
             a
             Native
             of
             Lorrain
             ,
             and
             born
             a
             Gentleman
             ,
             tho'
             with
             a
             very
             small
             Fortune
             ;
             That
             he
             fell
             in
             Love
             with
             this
             young
             Lady
             ,
             who
             was
             of
             a
             very
             Rich
             and
             Honourable
             Family
             ;
             That
             She
             requited
             his
             Love
             with
             a
             Reciprocal
             Affection
             ,
             notwithstanding
             the
             Opposition
             made
             by
             her
             Father
             ,
             and
             all
             the
             rest
             of
             her
             Family
             ,
             who
             designing
             to
             settle
             her
             Advantageously
             in
             the
             World
             ,
             wou'd
             never
             be
             persuaded
             to
             accept
             of
             so
             poor
             a
             Son-in-Law
             ;
             That
             ,
             nevertheless
             ,
             they
             kept
             a
             Correspendence
             for
             two
             Years
             ,
             giving
             and
             receiving
             all
             the
             Marks
             of
             an
             unexpressible
             Tenderness
             ,
             and
             confirming
             by
             mutual
             
             and
             repeated
             Oaths
             ,
             their
             resolution
             to
             die
             ,
             rather
             than
             to
             be
             guilty
             of
             the
             least
             Infidelity
             ;
             That
             her
             Father
             having
             provided
             a
             considerable
             Match
             for
             her
             ,
             wou'd
             have
             forc'd
             her
             to
             comply
             with
             his
             Inclinations
             ;
             That
             She
             rejected
             the
             Proposal
             with
             great
             Constancy
             ,
             and
             was
             very
             rigorously
             treated
             by
             her
             Father
             on
             that
             Occasion
             ;
             and
             ,
             That
             when
             she
             cou'd
             not
             resist
             any
             longer
             ,
             they
             resolv'd
             to
             make
             their
             Escape
             ,
             chusing
             rather
             to
             live
             poorly
             and
             miserably
             together
             ,
             than
             to
             purchase
             the
             Enjoyment
             of
             a
             plentiful
             Fortune
             at
             the
             rate
             of
             being
             for
             ever
             separated
             .
             In
             pursuance
             of
             that
             Design
             ,
             as
             he
             inform'd
             the
             Physician
             ,
             he
             seiz'd
             on
             one
             of
             her
             Father's
             Horses
             ,
             and
             after
             she
             had
             disguis'd
             her self
             in
             a
             Man's
             Habit
             ,
             he
             brought
             her
             to
             Paris
             ,
             where
             their
             Money
             failing
             ,
             they
             were
             forc'd
             to
             sell
             their
             Horse
             ;
             and
             that
             little
             Stock
             being
             also
             exhausted
             ,
             they
             were
             reduc'd
             to
             the
             miserable
             Condition
             in
             which
             he
             found
             'em
             :
             
               '
               Yet
            
             ,
             added
             he
             ,
             
               we
               were
               firmly
               resolv'd
               to
               spend
               the
               Remainder
               of
               our
               Lives
               like
               wretched
               Vagabonds
               ,
               rather
               than
               to
               submit
               to
               the
               Tyranny
               of
               our
               Relations
               ,
               if
               this
               fatal
               Sickness
               had
               not
               made
               me
               alter
               my
               Resolution
               .
               I
               cannot
               longer
               bear
               ,
            
             continu'd
             he
             ,
             
               the
               sight
               of
               so
               dismal
               an
               Object
               :
               My
               Constancy
               is
               overcome
               by
               her
               Sufferings
               ;
               and
               if
               God
               wou'd
               vouchsafe
               to
               restore
               her
               Health
               ,
               I
               design
               to
               carry
               her
               back
               to
               her
               Father
               ;
               tho'
               considering
               the
               extreme
               Violence
               of
               his
               Humour
               ,
               I
               cannot
               expect
               a
               milder
               Punishment
               than
               Death
               ,
               for
               the
               Injury
               he
               pretends
               I
               have
               done
               him
               .
            
          
           
             The
             Physician
             ,
             who
             is
             a
             very
             Humane
             Person
             ,
             was
             struck
             with
             Compassion
             at
             the
             Recital
             of
             their
             Misfortunes
             ,
             and
             promis'd
             to
             assist
             'em
             not
             only
             as
             a
             Physician
             ,
             but
             as
             a
             Friend
             .
             Immediately
             he
             order'd
             the
             young
             Lady
             to
             be
             taken
             out
             of
             the
             nasty
             Couch
             where
             she
             lay
             ,
             and
             to
             be
             carry'd
             to
             a
             convenient
             Chamber
             ;
             where
             she
             was
             laid
             in
             a
             good
             Bed
             ,
             and
             carefully
             attended
             till
             
             her
             Recovery
             ,
             which
             happen'd
             not
             long
             after
             .
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             ,
             he
             made
             their
             Condition
             known
             to
             the
             Bishop
             ,
             who
             ,
             as
             I
             told
             you
             in
             my
             last
             ,
             is
             none
             of
             those
             morose
             Censurers
             ,
             who
             exclaim
             against
             the
             least
             Breach
             of
             the
             Rules
             of
             Decency
             ;
             and
             indeed
             ,
             he
             was
             sensibly
             touch'd
             with
             the
             disast'rous
             Condition
             of
             these
             sorrowful
             Lovers
             ;
             and
             admiring
             the
             odd
             Effects
             of
             Love
             and
             Fortune
             ,
             he
             look'd
             upon
             'em
             as
             Objects
             of
             Compassion
             ,
             and
             assur'd
             'em
             ,
             that
             it
             shou'd
             not
             be
             his
             Fault
             ,
             if
             their
             Sufferings
             were
             not
             crown'd
             with
             the
             Happiness
             they
             deserv'd
             .
             They
             were
             soon
             sensible
             of
             the
             Sincerity
             of
             his
             Kindness
             ;
             for
             he
             joyn'd
             'em
             together
             in
             Marriage
             ,
             Cloath'd
             'em
             ,
             and
             entertain'd
             'em
             ;
             till
             having
             written
             to
             their
             Relations
             ,
             and
             obtain'd
             their
             pardon
             ,
             he
             sent
             them
             back
             to
             their
             own
             Country
             .
             To
             keep
             you
             from
             suspecting
             the
             Truth
             of
             this
             Relation
             ,
             't
             will
             be
             sufficient
             to
             acquaint
             you
             ,
             that
             't
             is
             not
             above
             Fifteen
             Days
             since
             that
             admirable
             pair
             of
             Lovers
             departed
             from
             this
             Place
             .
             I
             am
             so
             much
             in
             Love
             with
             the
             Bishop's
             Generosity
             on
             this
             Occasion
             ,
             and
             even
             I
             think
             my self
             so
             extremely
             oblig'd
             to
             him
             for
             it
             ,
             that
             I
             know
             nothing
             so
             difficult
             ,
             which
             I
             wou'd
             not
             undertake
             for
             his
             Service
             :
             And
             I
             'm
             confident
             that
             a
             Man
             who
             is
             capable
             of
             performing
             an
             Action
             of
             that
             Nature
             ,
             must
             infallibly
             be
             Master
             of
             all
             the
             Cardinal
             Virtues
             .
          
           
             And
             to
             convince
             you
             that
             he
             is
             no
             less
             remarkable
             for
             his
             Prudence
             ,
             and
             the
             solidity
             of
             his
             Judgment
             ,
             I
             shall
             add
             one
             Story
             more
             before
             I
             finish
             my
             Letter
             .
          
           
             
               The
               Ghost
               of
               S
               
               t.
               Antony
               of
               Mar
               〈…〉
               P.
               〈…〉
            
          
           
             I
             shall
             conclude
             this
             Letter
             with
             telling
             you
             ,
             That
             there
             are
             so
             many
             Occasions
             of
             going
             to
             Turkey
             to
             be
             met
             with
             in
             this
             place
             ,
             that
             I●m
             fully
             resolv'd
             to
             undertake
             a
             Voyage
             thither
             .
             I
             may
             perhaps
             find
             some
             English
             or
             Dutch
             Vessels
             there
             ,
             and
             without
             any
             considerable
             Charge
             satisfie
             my
             Curiosity
             with
             the
             View
             of
             a
             Country
             of
             which
             I
             have
             heard
             so
             many
             Wonders
             .
             I
             'm
             just
             going
             to
             embark
             on
             the
             
               S.
               Anthony
            
             of
             Ciotat
             ,
             bound
             first
             for
             Genoa
             ,
             and
             then
             for
             L●ghorn
             ,
             and
             commanded
             by
             Captain
             Marin
             ,
             who
             designs
             to
             stay
             so
             long
             in
             the
             last
             of
             these
             places
             ,
             that
             I
             shall
             have
             an
             Opportunity
             to
             see
             part
             of
             Italy
             ,
             before
             we
             set
             sail
             for
             Constantinople
             ,
             from
             whence
             you
             may
             expect
             a
             farther
             Account
             of
             my
             Travels
             .
          
           
             I
             am
             ,
             
               SIR
               ,
            
             
               Your
               &c.
               
            
             
               Marseilles
               ,
               
                 March
                 1690.
                 
              
            
          
        
         
           
           
             LETTER
             IX
             .
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
          
           
             AFter
             I
             have
             told
             you
             that
             we
             set
             sail
             from
             Marseilles
             on
             the
             25
             th
             .
             of
             March
             ,
             you
             must
             not
             expect
             to
             hear
             more
             News
             of
             us
             till
             our
             Landing
             ;
             for
             I
             cannot
             imagine
             what
             pleasure
             you
             cou'd
             take
             in
             reading
             ,
             that
             on
             such
             a
             Day
             the
             South
             or
             East
             Winds
             were
             contrary
             to
             us
             ,
             or
             that
             we
             were
             forc'd
             to
             tack
             about
             to
             the
             North
             or
             West
             .
             I
             'm
             so
             far
             from
             looking
             upon
             the
             Sea
             as
             my
             Element
             ,
             that
             I
             never
             found
             the
             least
             Inclination
             to
             be
             acquainted
             with
             it
             .
             Besides
             ,
             Sir
             ,
             I
             must
             confess
             I
             'm
             naturally
             apt
             to
             judge
             of
             others
             by
             my self
             ;
             and
             therefore
             when
             I
             remember
             how
             often
             I
             have
             skip'd
             over
             such
             Passages
             in
             the
             Relations
             of
             Travellers
             ,
             I
             cannot
             forbear
             concluding
             that
             you
             wou'd
             be
             as
             little
             pleas'd
             with
             so
             dull
             an
             Entertainment
             .
             Since
             then
             you
             will
             have
             the
             Advantage
             of
             passing
             from
             one
             Port
             to
             another
             ,
             without
             feeling
             the
             Inconveniencies
             of
             bad
             Weather
             ,
             or
             being
             troubl'd
             with
             the
             Noisy
             Hurry
             of
             the
             Mariners
             ,
             I
             hope
             you
             will
             be
             the
             more
             easily
             persuaded
             to
             stop
             a
             while
             with
             me
             at
             the
             Isles
             of
             If
             ,
             where
             we
             spent
             a
             whole
             Day
             at
             Anchor
             ,
             after
             we
             came
             out
             of
             the
             Port
             of
             Marseilles
             .
          
           
             The
             Isles
             of
             If
             are
             three
             small
             Islands
             about
             three
             Miles
             distant
             from
             Marseilles
             ,
             forming
             a
             very
             safe
             Harbour
             against
             any
             sorts
             of
             Wind
             ,
             which
             is
             defended
             by
             two
             strong
             Castles
             ,
             where
             the
             King
             keeps
             a
             Garrison
             .
             These
             Islands
             are
             of
             great
             Importance
             to
             secure
             the
             Trade
             of
             Marseilles
             ;
             for
             without
             the
             Advantage
             of
             their
             Neighbourhood
             ,
             that
             City
             wou'd
             be
             a
             kind
             of
             Prison
             ,
             since
             
             't
             wou'd
             be
             impossible
             for
             any
             Vessels
             to
             go
             out
             of
             the
             Port
             ,
             without
             exposing
             themselves
             to
             the
             Insults
             of
             their
             Enemies
             :
             And
             besides
             ,
             the
             Storms
             that
             are
             so
             frequent
             in
             the
             Mediterranean
             ,
             wou'd
             drive
             many
             Ships
             upon
             the
             Shoar
             ,
             if
             they
             had
             not
             the
             Conveniency
             of
             standing
             into
             this
             Harbour
             .
             But
             notwithstanding
             the
             Advantageous
             Situation
             of
             these
             Islands
             ,
             and
             the
             great
             Importance
             of
             the
             Harbour
             for
             the
             Security
             of
             Trade
             ,
             they
             were
             mortgag'd
             by
             one
             of
             our
             Kings
             to
             the
             Duke
             of
             Florence
             ,
             for
             six
             hundred
             thousand
             Crowns
             .
             Whilst
             the
             Princes
             of
             that
             Family
             injoy'd
             the
             possession
             of
             this
             Post
             ,
             the
             Spaniards
             left
             no
             means
             unessay'd
             to
             make
             himself
             Master
             of
             it
             ;
             but
             they
             were
             either
             resolv'd
             to
             keep
             it
             in
             their
             own
             Power
             ,
             or
             afraid
             to
             incur
             the
             Anger
             of
             the
             French
             ,
             since
             't
             is
             certain
             that
             they
             rejected
             all
             the
             Proposals
             that
             were
             made
             to
             'em
             upon
             this
             Occasion
             .
             These
             Islands
             were
             afterwards
             reunited
             to
             the
             Crown
             ,
             by
             the
             Marriage
             of
             
               Mary
               de
               Medicis
            
             with
             Henry
             the
             Fourth
             .
             And
             the
             Success
             of
             that
             Negotiation
             was
             in
             a
             great
             measure
             owing
             to
             the
             Marquiss
             
               de
               Pile
            
             ,
             who
             was
             then
             Governour
             of
             the
             Place
             ;
             for
             he
             made
             Duke
             Francis
             sensible
             ,
             that
             't
             was
             better
             to
             comply
             with
             the
             Desires
             of
             that
             Monarch
             ,
             than
             to
             engage
             himself
             in
             a
             War
             with
             so
             potent
             an
             Enemy
             .
             In
             consideration
             of
             so
             acceptable
             a
             piece
             of
             Service
             ,
             the
             Marquiss
             was
             continu'd
             in
             his
             former
             Post
             ,
             and
             the
             Reversion
             of
             his
             Office
             was
             bestow'd
             on
             his
             Son
             ,
             who
             died
             there
             ,
             leaving
             two
             Sons
             ,
             the
             elder
             of
             whom
             ,
             who
             enjoys
             his
             Grandfather's
             Title
             ,
             succeeded
             in
             the
             Government
             of
             these
             Islands
             ;
             and
             the
             younger
             ,
             call'd
             the
             Count
             
               de
               Forville
            
             ,
             was
             made
             Governour
             Viguier
             of
             Marseilles
             ,
             and
             Captain
             of
             one
             of
             the
             King's
             Galleys
             ;
             the
             yearly
             Revenue
             of
             these
             two
             Places
             amounting
             to
             20000
             Livres
             .
          
           
           
             To
             make
             amends
             for
             the
             less
             favourable
             part
             of
             the
             Character
             I
             gave
             you
             of
             the
             Natives
             of
             Prov●nce
             ,
             I
             shall
             take
             this
             Occasion
             to
             acquaint
             you
             with
             some
             of
             their
             better
             Qualities
             :
             For
             I
             love
             to
             do
             Justice
             to
             all
             Men
             ;
             and
             besides
             ,
             I
             wou'd
             willingly
             make
             my
             Peace
             with
             the
             Inhabitants
             ,
             before
             I
             leave
             their
             Country
             :
             They
             are
             very
             good
             Mariners
             ,
             and
             are
             famous
             over
             all
             Europe
             for
             their
             Industry
             and
             Diligence
             :
             Nor
             are
             they
             less
             remarkable
             for
             their
             Courage
             and
             Bravery
             ;
             for
             they
             are
             so
             little
             capable
             of
             Fear
             ,
             that
             they
             wou'd
             reckon
             it
             a
             piece
             of
             Cowardice
             to
             turn
             their
             Backs
             to
             ten
             times
             their
             Number
             of
             Enemies
             .
             Not
             very
             long
             ago
             ,
             our
             Captain
             's
             Uncle
             ,
             call'd
             
               Blaise
               Marin
            
             ,
             in
             a
             Ship
             of
             Forty
             Guns
             ,
             maintain'd
             a
             Fight
             for
             three
             Days
             together
             ,
             during
             a
             Calm
             ,
             against
             five
             Tripolin
             Men
             of
             War
             ,
             with
             so
             much
             Resolution
             and
             Success
             ,
             that
             they
             were
             forc'd
             at
             last
             to
             leave
             him
             .
             And
             a
             small
             Bark
             of
             thirty
             Men
             ,
             was
             about
             a
             Year
             ago
             snatch'd
             out
             of
             the
             very
             Jaws
             of
             the
             Algerines
             ,
             by
             the
             Prudence
             and
             Bravery
             of
             the
             Pilot.
             She
             was
             chas'd
             by
             one
             of
             the
             largest
             of
             the
             Enemy's
             Ships
             ,
             in
             which
             there
             were
             four
             hundred
             Men
             ,
             till
             seeing
             no
             possibility
             of
             escaping
             ,
             that
             Handful
             of
             Men
             resolv'd
             to
             board
             the
             Ship
             that
             pursu'd
             'em
             ,
             without
             lowering
             their
             Sails
             ,
             or
             grappling
             the
             Vessels
             together
             :
             And
             the
             Pilot
             leaping
             on
             board
             the
             Enemy's
             Ship
             ,
             with
             his
             Curtelas
             in
             his
             Hand
             ,
             cut
             the
             Rope
             that
             sustain'd
             their
             Main-Sail
             ,
             which
             they
             cou'd
             not
             hoise
             again
             in
             above
             three
             Hours
             .
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             the
             Pilot
             jump'd
             into
             his
             own
             Bark
             ,
             and
             Crying
             ,
             
               Courage
               ,
               my
               Boys
               ,
               we
               're
               sav'd
               ,
            
             steer'd
             away
             from
             the
             Enemy
             ,
             who
             could
             never
             afterwards
             come
             up
             with
             him
             .
             The
             Merchants
             at
             his
             Return
             ,
             presented
             him
             with
             a
             Gold
             Medal
             ;
             nor
             cou'd
             they
             in
             Justice
             do
             less
             Honour
             to
             so
             rare
             a
             Merit
             .
             But
             they
             will
             not
             be
             so
             kind
             to
             a
             Captain
             ,
             
             call'd
             Curet
             ,
             who
             had
             the
             Misfortune
             to
             be
             taken
             by
             the
             Galleys
             of
             Naples
             about
             three
             Months
             ago
             :
             For
             tho'
             he
             had
             only
             24
             Guns
             mounted
             ,
             and
             100
             Men
             on
             board
             ,
             to
             resist
             seven
             Galleys
             that
             attack'd
             him
             ;
             his
             Countrymen
             exclaim
             against
             him
             as
             the
             basest
             of
             Cowards
             ;
             and
             I
             know
             not
             whether
             't
             will
             ever
             be
             safe
             for
             him
             to
             show
             his
             Face
             at
             Marseilles
             .
             But
             after
             all
             ,
             this
             seems
             to
             be
             a
             Rodomontade
             ,
             rather
             than
             an
             effect
             of
             true
             Courage
             ;
             since
             it
             must
             be
             acknowledg'd
             that
             seven
             Galleys
             are
             a
             very
             unequal
             Match
             for
             the
             strongest
             Merchant-Ship
             in
             the
             World.
             
          
           
             Three
             Days
             after
             our
             departure
             from
             If
             ,
             we
             arriv'd
             at
             Genoa
             ,
             which
             you
             know
             is
             usually
             call'd
             
               Genoa
               the
               Proud
            
             ,
             tho'
             in
             my
             Opinion
             it
             cannot
             pretend
             the
             least
             Right
             to
             that
             Title
             :
             'T
             is
             the
             Capital
             City
             of
             Liguria
             ,
             and
             had
             its
             Name
             from
             Janus
             the
             first
             ,
             King
             of
             Italy
             ;
             or
             according
             to
             others
             ,
             from
             
               double-fac'd
               Janus
            
             .
             Some
             make
             this
             Janus
             King
             of
             the
             Toïans
             ;
             and
             others
             deduce
             the
             Etymology
             of
             the
             Word
             from
             Janua
             ,
             a
             Gate
             ,
             or
             Door
             ;
             because
             Genoa
             is
             as
             it
             were
             the
             Gate
             of
             Italy
             .
             Authors
             are
             generally
             much
             divided
             concerning
             the
             true
             Name
             of
             this
             City
             :
             
               Luitprand
               ,
               Tircin
            
             ,
             and
             some
             others
             ,
             call
             it
             
               Janua
               ;
               Titus
               Livius
               ,
               Ptolomy
               ,
            
             and
             Strabo
             ,
             give
             it
             the
             Name
             of
             Genua
             ;
             and
             the
             latter
             Opinion
             seems
             to
             be
             better
             grounded
             than
             the
             former
             ,
             especially
             since
             't
             is
             confirm'd
             by
             a
             small
             Copper-Plate
             ,
             which
             is
             to
             be
             seen
             in
             this
             Place
             ,
             and
             was
             found
             Ann.
             1507.
             by
             a
             Peasant
             ,
             as
             he
             was
             Tilling
             the
             Ground
             .
             The
             Inscription
             is
             engrav'd
             in
             very
             small
             ,
             but
             pretty
             distinct
             ,
             Roman
             Characters
             ;
             and
             in
             it
             the
             Genoese
             are
             call'd
             Genuates
             .
          
           
             The
             time
             of
             its
             Foundation
             is
             unknown
             ,
             at
             least
             I
             never
             had
             the
             Fortune
             to
             meet
             with
             a
             satisfactory
             Account
             of
             it
             in
             any
             Author
             ,
             either
             Ancient
             or
             Modern
             .
             'T
             is
             seated
             at
             the
             bottom
             
             of
             a
             little
             Gulf
             ,
             on
             the
             Declivity
             ,
             and
             at
             the
             Foot
             of
             a
             Hill
             ,
             seeming
             to
             consist
             of
             several
             Stories
             .
             The
             Port
             lies
             very
             open
             towards
             the
             Sea
             ,
             and
             therefore
             cannot
             afford
             safe
             Anchorage
             for
             Ships
             .
             The
             City
             contains
             five
             and
             thirty
             Parishes
             ;
             the
             Streets
             are
             uneven
             ,
             and
             very
             narrow
             ,
             tho'
             the
             Houses
             are
             extremely
             high
             .
             In
             the
             middle
             of
             the
             
               Publick
               Place
            
             ,
             there
             is
             a
             Marble
             Statue
             of
             an
             unusual
             bigness
             ,
             representing
             
               Andrew
               Doria
            
             ,
             the
             Deliverer
             of
             the
             Republick
             ,
             trampling
             on
             three
             Turks
             Heads
             ,
             in
             Memory
             of
             the
             signal
             Victories
             he
             obtain'd
             over
             these
             Infidels
             .
             The
             Palaces
             of
             Genoa
             are
             very
             much
             admir'd
             ;
             and
             it
             must
             be
             acknowledg'd
             that
             some
             of
             'em
             are
             very
             fine
             Structures
             ;
             but
             the
             principal
             Beauty
             of
             those
             few
             that
             deserve
             that
             Title
             ,
             consists
             in
             the
             Marble
             of
             which
             they
             are
             built
             .
          
           
             Marble
             is
             no
             Rarity
             in
             this
             Country
             ;
             all
             the
             Churches
             are
             adorn'd
             with
             it
             ,
             as
             well
             as
             the
             
               Palace
               Royal
            
             ,
             where
             his
             Serenity
             keeps
             his
             Residence
             :
             But
             after
             all
             ,
             you
             must
             not
             imagine
             that
             the
             Streets
             are
             pav'd
             with
             it
             .
             Since
             we
             staid
             but
             two
             Days
             in
             the
             City
             ,
             I
             cou'd
             not
             find
             an
             Opportunity
             to
             see
             the
             Inside
             of
             any
             of
             the
             Palaces
             ,
             and
             therefore
             I
             cannot
             satisfie
             your
             Curiosity
             with
             a
             Description
             of
             '
             em
             .
             You
             are
             so
             well
             acquainted
             with
             the
             nature
             of
             the
             Government
             ,
             that
             't
             wou'd
             be
             needless
             to
             give
             you
             any
             farther
             Account
             of
             it
             ;
             only
             I
             cannot
             forbear
             taking
             notice
             of
             the
             extreme
             Decrease
             of
             the
             Power
             and
             Grandeur
             of
             this
             Republick
             since
             those
             glorious
             Days
             ,
             when
             they
             extended
             their
             Conquests
             to
             the
             Tanais
             ,
             and
             made
             themselves
             Masters
             of
             all
             the
             Coasts
             of
             Asia
             ,
             and
             the
             Islands
             of
             
               Cyprus
               ,
               Scio
               ,
               Lesbos
            
             ,
             &c.
             
             They
             still
             retain
             a
             little
             Island
             ,
             with
             the
             Title
             of
             a
             Kingdom
             ,
             and
             are
             extremely
             proud
             of
             it
             ,
             tho'
             ,
             in
             my
             Opinion
             ,
             without
             any
             reason
             .
             The
             Habits
             of
             the
             Nobles
             resemble
             those
             
             of
             the
             Counsellors
             in
             France
             ;
             they
             dare
             not
             wear
             Gold
             or
             Silver
             when
             they
             come
             abroad
             ;
             but
             in
             their
             Houses
             they
             have
             very
             rich
             Vests
             ,
             and
             costly
             Night-Gowns
             .
          
           
             Since
             the
             late
             Bombardment
             of
             the
             City
             ,
             they
             cannot
             endure
             those
             of
             our
             Nation
             .
             They
             show'd
             me
             a
             Convent
             of
             Nuns
             ,
             into
             which
             there
             fell
             not
             one
             Bomb
             ,
             tho'
             there
             were
             above
             a
             hundred
             shot
             at
             it
             ;
             and
             told
             me
             ,
             that
             there
             was
             a
             Hand
             seen
             in
             the
             Air
             ,
             which
             diverted
             their
             Course
             ,
             and
             threw
             'em
             another
             way
             .
             The
             Jews
             ,
             who
             are
             detested
             by
             all
             the
             World
             ,
             were
             in
             great
             Favour
             here
             during
             those
             terrible
             Disorders
             ,
             because
             they
             found
             out
             a
             way
             to
             quench
             the
             Bombs
             with
             Ox
             Hides
             :
             Yet
             this
             is
             not
             a
             new
             Invention
             ;
             for
             the
             same
             was
             practised
             long
             before
             by
             the
             Inhabitants
             of
             Groningen
             ,
             when
             they
             were
             besieg'd
             by
             the
             Bishop
             of
             Munster
             in
             1672
             :
             And
             since
             that
             time
             the
             Algerines
             made
             use
             of
             the
             same
             Secret
             ;
             besides
             the
             covering
             of
             their
             Streets
             with
             Sand.
             Nor
             is
             there
             any
             thing
             wonderful
             in
             the
             Success
             of
             this
             Stratagem
             ;
             for
             one
             may
             easily
             and
             infallibly
             smother
             a
             Bomb
             if
             he
             can
             come
             in
             time
             to
             stop
             the
             Hole
             before
             the
             Fusee
             be
             spent
             .
             At
             the
             Assault
             of
             the
             Horn-Work
             at
             Philipsburg
             ,
             I
             saw
             a
             Soldier
             take
             the
             same
             way
             to
             prevent
             the
             Effect
             of
             the
             Granadoes
             ,
             which
             the
             Germans
             threw
             among
             us
             :
             For
             he
             gather'd
             'em
             as
             they
             fell
             ,
             and
             stopping
             the
             Touch-Hole
             with
             his
             Hand
             ,
             either
             smother'd
             'em
             immediately
             ,
             or
             threw
             'em
             back
             upon
             the
             Enemies
             .
             But
             tho'
             this
             may
             be
             easily
             done
             ,
             it
             cannot
             be
             attempted
             without
             Danger
             ;
             for
             the
             Fusee
             is
             always
             made
             as
             short
             as
             possible
             ;
             and
             if
             the
             Fire
             shou'd
             happen
             to
             reach
             the
             Powder
             when
             the
             Man
             throws
             himself
             upon
             the
             Bomb
             ,
             the
             shutting
             out
             of
             the
             Air
             wou'd
             only
             〈◊〉
             it
             burst
             the
             sooner
             .
          
           
           
             But
             tho'
             the
             shortness
             of
             our
             stay
             at
             Genoa
             wou'd
             not
             permit
             me
             to
             gratifie
             your
             Curiosity
             with
             an
             Account
             of
             the
             Beauties
             and
             Rarities
             of
             that
             City
             ;
             I
             confess
             I
             cannot
             pretend
             the
             same
             Excuse
             for
             declining
             to
             undertake
             the
             Description
             of
             
               Rome
               ,
               Florence
            
             ,
             and
             the
             place
             where
             I
             am
             at
             present
             .
             I
             have
             spent
             two
             whole
             Months
             in
             examining
             and
             admiring
             that
             infinite
             Number
             of
             Wonders
             that
             seem
             to
             have
             been
             brought
             from
             all
             the
             parts
             of
             the
             World
             ,
             and
             shut
             up
             in
             this
             Country
             ,
             as
             in
             a
             vast
             Repository
             .
             I
             have
             even
             wallow'd
             in
             Delight
             ,
             and
             been
             kept
             in
             a
             continual
             Rapture
             with
             the
             amazing
             View
             of
             so
             many
             noble
             Structures
             ,
             august
             Monuments
             of
             Antiquity
             ,
             inestimable
             
               Libraries
               ,
               Statues
               ,
               Pictures
            
             ,
             Works
             of
             Marble
             and
             Porphyrie
             ,
             and
             a
             Thousand
             other
             Curiosities
             ,
             of
             which
             there
             is
             a
             prodigious
             and
             even
             incredible
             Abundance
             in
             these
             places
             .
             I
             have
             seen
             all
             these
             magnificent
             Rarities
             ;
             I
             have
             view'd
             'em
             with
             all
             imaginable
             Pleasure
             and
             Attention
             ,
             and
             my
             Mind
             is
             still
             full
             of
             their
             agreeable
             
             Idea's
             ;
             but
             tho'
             I
             have
             not
             forgot
             what
             I
             promis'd
             you
             ,
             neither
             the
             Consideration
             of
             your
             Satisfaction
             ,
             nor
             of
             my
             own
             Engagement
             ,
             can
             make
             me
             willing
             to
             keep
             my
             Promise
             with
             respect
             to
             Italy
             .
             You
             must
             e'en
             give
             me
             leave
             to
             claim
             the
             Privilege
             of
             a
             Norman
             once
             in
             my
             Life
             ;
             and
             you
             will
             easily
             dispense
             with
             the
             Account
             you
             expected
             from
             me
             ,
             if
             you
             peruse
             the
             Relations
             of
             so
             many
             Travellers
             ,
             who
             have
             visited
             this
             lovely
             Country
             from
             one
             end
             to
             the
             other
             ,
             especially
             the
             late
             Work
             of
             Monsieur
             Misson
             :
             For
             what
             can
             be
             added
             to
             so
             exact
             a
             Description
             ?
             Is
             there
             any
             Corner
             in
             Italy
             ,
             that
             has
             escap'd
             his
             inquisitive
             Curiosity
             ,
             or
             any
             thing
             remarkable
             in
             it
             which
             he
             has
             not
             illustrated
             with
             Learned
             and
             Judicious
             Reflexions
             ?
             He
             is
             a
             compleat
             Traveller
             ;
             he
             has
             forgot
             nothing
             that
             deserves
             to
             be
             taken
             notice
             of
             ,
             and
             has
             so
             
             intirely
             exhausted
             his
             Subject
             ,
             that
             there
             is
             nothing
             left
             for
             future
             Observers
             .
             And
             therefore
             ,
             instead
             of
             describing
             Italy
             ,
             I
             shall
             only
             desire
             you
             to
             consult
             his
             Book
             ,
             by
             the
             Assistance
             of
             which
             ,
             you
             may
             make
             one
             of
             the
             pleasantest
             Voyages
             in
             the
             World
             without
             going
             out
             of
             your
             Closet
             .
             But
             since
             you
             will
             perhaps
             expect
             that
             I
             shou'd
             at
             least
             add
             something
             to
             convince
             you
             that
             I
             have
             seen
             these
             celebrated
             Places
             ,
             I
             shall
             adventure
             to
             tell
             you
             ,
             that
             among
             so
             many
             admirable
             Rarities
             that
             fill'd
             me
             with
             Wonder
             and
             Amazement
             ,
             there
             is
             nothing
             ,
             in
             my
             Opinion
             ,
             more
             extraordinary
             and
             surprising
             than
             the
             Pomp
             and
             Magnificence
             of
             the
             
               Court
               of
               Rome
            
             .
             I
             know
             not
             whether
             this
             Remark
             will
             make
             amends
             for
             my
             Silence
             in
             other
             Respects
             :
             You
             'll
             perhaps
             tell
             me
             ,
             that
             't
             is
             a
             stale
             and
             trivial
             Observation
             :
             However
             ,
             you
             must
             give
             me
             leave
             to
             assure
             you
             ,
             that
             't
             is
             not
             an
             easie
             Task
             to
             represent
             all
             its
             Wonders
             ;
             and
             I
             must
             confess
             ,
             that
             hitherto
             I
             had
             never
             any
             Idea
             of
             it
             ,
             that
             did
             not
             come
             short
             of
             the
             Truth
             .
             The
             
               Court
               of
               Rome
            
             is
             no
             less
             Numerous
             and
             Magnificent
             than
             that
             of
             France
             ;
             and
             perhaps
             I
             might
             venture
             to
             say
             ,
             that
             the
             latter
             is
             exceeded
             by
             the
             former
             .
             Every
             Cardinal
             is
             a
             Prince
             ,
             who
             receives
             daily
             all
             the
             Marks
             of
             Honour
             and
             Respect
             from
             a
             Thousand
             Prelates
             ,
             and
             other
             Ecclesiasticks
             ,
             that
             look
             upon
             him
             as
             their
             Sovereign
             ,
             and
             place
             their
             whole
             Felicity
             in
             his
             Favour
             .
             Nothing
             is
             wanting
             to
             compleat
             the
             Splendor
             of
             their
             Dignity
             :
             Magnificent
             Palaces
             ,
             rich
             Furnitures
             ,
             delicious
             Tables
             ,
             Pleasure-Houses
             ,
             Gardens
             ,
             Grotto's
             ,
             Fountains
             ,
             numerous
             Trains
             of
             Servants
             ,
             and
             ,
             to
             crown
             all
             ,
             the
             Conversation
             and
             Society
             of
             the
             handsomest
             Ladies
             in
             Europe
             ;
             for
             you
             must
             not
             imagine
             that
             their
             Character
             confines
             'em
             to
             all
             the
             Austerities
             of
             a
             Monastick
             Life
             ;
             and
             ,
             excepting
             only
             some
             
               Gray-Bearded
               Dotards
            
             ,
             that
             pretend
             to
             the
             Popedom
             ,
             the
             
             rest
             are
             as
             Gay
             and
             Amorous
             as
             any
             young
             French
             Prince
             .
             '
             Twou'd
             be
             needless
             to
             apply
             this
             Character
             particularly
             to
             all
             the
             Members
             of
             the
             
               Sacred
               College
            
             ;
             and
             therefore
             I
             shall
             content
             my self
             with
             assuring
             you
             ,
             that
             none
             deserves
             it
             more
             justly
             than
             the
             
               Cardinal
               Patron
            
             ,
             who
             has
             acquir'd
             so
             Universal
             a
             Reputation
             of
             an
             accomplish'd
             Gallant
             ,
             that
             't
             is
             generally
             reckon'd
             the
             most
             effectual
             way
             to
             obtain
             a
             Favour
             of
             him
             ,
             to
             make
             use
             of
             the
             Intercession
             of
             a
             Lady
             ;
             and
             even
             he
             scruples
             not
             to
             declare
             ,
             that
             he
             has
             not
             the
             Force
             to
             refuse
             any
             thing
             to
             a
             
               fair
               Petitioner
            
             .
          
           
             Those
             who
             love
             Pleasure
             and
             Luxury
             ,
             cannot
             desire
             a
             more
             favourable
             Treatment
             than
             they
             meet
             with
             under
             the
             present
             Pontificate
             .
             The
             
               Holy
               Father
            
             encourages
             'em
             by
             his
             own
             Example
             ;
             his
             Table
             and
             Furniture
             are
             Magnificent
             ,
             and
             his
             Nephews
             resemble
             so
             many
             Sovereigns
             .
             The
             Prince
             Mark
             is
             attended
             with
             a
             Train
             of
             forty
             Lacqueys
             ,
             all
             clad
             in
             a
             Livery
             of
             Cloth
             of
             Gold
             ,
             and
             his
             Stable
             is
             furnish'd
             with
             sixty
             of
             the
             finest
             Horses
             in
             Rome
             ;
             tho'
             all
             this
             is
             a
             manifest
             Violation
             of
             the
             Edicts
             that
             were
             publish'd
             to
             regulate
             the
             Affairs
             of
             the
             Nepotism
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             the
             People
             grumble
             extremely
             to
             see
             their
             Substance
             exhausted
             ,
             and
             the
             very
             Blood
             drain'd
             out
             of
             their
             Bodies
             ,
             to
             maintain
             the
             extravagant
             Vanity
             of
             those
             
               Upstart
               Favourites
            
             ,
             who
             about
             a
             Year
             ago
             were
             as
             poor
             as
             themselves
             .
             But
             among
             so
             many
             Marks
             of
             Splendour
             ,
             there
             is
             nothing
             more
             surprizing
             ,
             than
             the
             Magnificent
             Gondola's
             ,
             built
             by
             the
             Pope's
             Orders
             ,
             which
             are
             the
             first
             that
             ever
             grac'd
             the
             Tiber.
             His
             Holiness
             goes
             thither
             very
             often
             to
             take
             the
             Air
             ,
             accompany'd
             with
             those
             that
             have
             the
             greatest
             Share
             in
             his
             Favour
             ;
             and
             't
             is
             thought
             he
             designs
             to
             bring
             the
             
               Venetian
               Fresco
            
             into
             Fashion
             at
             Rome
             ,
             which
             in
             my
             Opinion
             is
             a
             Project
             that
             may
             be
             easily
             accomplish'd
             ,
             since
             the
             Roman
             Ladies
             
             love
             to
             be
             seen
             ,
             as
             well
             as
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             Fair
             Sex.
             
          
           
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             the
             Luxury
             and
             Vanity
             of
             the
             present
             Pope
             ,
             gives
             occasion
             to
             several
             well-dispos'd
             Persons
             ,
             to
             make
             Comparisons
             between
             his
             Conduct
             ,
             and
             that
             of
             his
             Predecessour
             ,
             which
             you
             may
             reasonably
             conclude
             are
             not
             in
             the
             least
             Advantageous
             to
             his
             Holiness
             :
             For
             there
             is
             certainly
             a
             very
             remarkable
             Difference
             between
             these
             two
             Pontiffs
             :
             He
             who
             at
             present
             fills
             the
             Chair
             ,
             makes
             it
             his
             only
             business
             to
             gratifie
             his
             Inclination
             to
             Pleasure
             ,
             and
             to
             Aggrandize
             his
             Family
             ;
             whereas
             the
             good
             Pope
             Innocent
             apply'd
             himself
             only
             to
             the
             performance
             of
             the
             Duties
             of
             his
             Office
             ,
             reforming
             the
             Abuses
             that
             had
             crept
             into
             Rome
             ,
             visiting
             the
             Hospitals
             ,
             and
             assisting
             the
             Poor
             .
             And
             besides
             ,
             he
             left
             no
             Means
             unessay'd
             ,
             to
             restore
             Peace
             to
             Christendom
             :
             And
             when
             an
             unjust
             Power
             endeavour'd
             to
             extend
             its
             Usurpations
             to
             the
             Church
             it self
             ,
             we
             had
             the
             Pleasure
             to
             see
             that
             generous
             Prelate
             oppose
             the
             incroaching
             Tyranny
             ,
             with
             a
             Resolution
             and
             Piety
             worthy
             of
             a
             Common
             Father
             .
             His
             Private
             Life
             ,
             and
             Domestick
             Occupations
             ,
             were
             no
             less
             Edifying
             :
             He
             was
             easie
             of
             Access
             to
             all
             Men
             ,
             and
             hearken'd
             favourably
             to
             the
             Poor
             when
             they
             came
             to
             represent
             their
             Grievances
             to
             him
             ,
             or
             to
             beg
             his
             Assistance
             .
             His
             external
             Deportment
             was
             very
             simple
             ,
             and
             so
             free
             from
             the
             least
             Appearance
             of
             
               Worldly
               Pomp
            
             ,
             that
             he
             might
             be
             call'd
             the
             
               Model
               of
               Humility
            
             .
             I
             'm
             assur'd
             by
             several
             Persons
             of
             unquestion'd
             Credit
             ,
             that
             the
             Expence
             of
             his
             Table
             was
             fix'd
             at
             *
             
               Two
               Julio's
            
             a
             Day
             ,
             and
             that
             the
             whole
             Charge
             of
             his
             Provisions
             did
             not
             exceed
             
               Fifty
               Crowns
            
             a
             Year
             .
             I
             cannot
             without
             Astonishment
             reflect
             on
             the
             admirable
             Sobriety
             of
             a
             Person
             who
             might
             be
             justly
             rank'd
             among
             the
             most
             Potent
             Princes
             
             in
             the
             World
             ;
             and
             am
             not
             at
             all
             surpriz'd
             that
             most
             Persons
             here
             esteem
             him
             a
             Saint
             .
             'T
             is
             said
             that
             Miracles
             are
             wrought
             at
             his
             Tomb
             ;
             and
             if
             that
             Report
             continue
             a
             while
             longer
             ,
             he
             will
             certainly
             be
             the
             only
             Object
             of
             the
             People's
             Devotion
             .
             I
             know
             not
             whether
             the
             Zeal
             of
             his
             Adorers
             may
             not
             one
             Day
             procure
             the
             deceas'd
             Pope
             a
             place
             among
             the
             
               Canoniz'd
               Saints
            
             :
             But
             considering
             the
             Reputation
             of
             his
             Successour
             ,
             I
             may
             venture
             to
             assure
             you
             ,
             that
             he
             will
             never
             be
             enroll'd
             among
             that
             Number
             .
          
           
             Under
             this
             Pontificat
             the
             Curtezans
             have
             resum'd
             their
             expiring
             Courage
             ,
             and
             begin
             to
             appear
             with
             the
             same
             Haughtiness
             and
             Insolency
             that
             seem'd
             to
             be
             in
             some
             Measure
             curb'd
             under
             the
             Government
             of
             Innocent
             XI
             .
             That
             Jovial
             Society
             ,
             which
             may
             be
             reckon'd
             a
             
               Fourth
               Order
            
             in
             the
             State
             ,
             and
             no
             less
             considerable
             than
             any
             of
             the
             rest
             ,
             will
             ,
             in
             all
             probability
             ,
             maintain
             its
             Privileges
             and
             Liberties
             as
             long
             as
             the
             Supreme
             Power
             is
             lodg'd
             in
             the
             Clergy
             ,
             who
             will
             never
             deprive
             themselves
             of
             so
             necessary
             a
             Diversion
             .
             And
             truly
             ,
             I
             know
             not
             how
             so
             many
             young
             Persons
             that
             are
             engag'd
             in
             a
             Vow
             which
             they
             are
             not
             able
             to
             perform
             ,
             cou'd
             subsist
             ,
             without
             the
             comfortable
             Assistance
             of
             those
             
               Communicative
               Ladies
            
             .
             Honest
             Matrons
             are
             daily
             affronted
             by
             those
             domineering
             Strumpets
             ,
             whose
             Insolence
             they
             must
             suffer
             patiently
             ,
             since
             't
             wou'd
             be
             in
             vain
             to
             contend
             with
             the
             
               Mistresses
               of
               their
               Masters
            
             .
             I
             'm
             not
             in
             the
             least
             surpriz'd
             at
             their
             Haughtiness
             and
             Pride
             ;
             but
             I
             confess
             I
             cou'd
             never
             have
             believ'd
             ,
             without
             the
             Testimony
             of
             my
             own
             Eyes
             ,
             that
             they
             had
             so
             much
             Liberty
             ,
             and
             so
             little
             Shame
             .
             We
             had
             no
             sooner
             drop●d
             Anchor
             before
             Leghorn
             ,
             but
             we
             were
             immediately
             boarded
             by
             a
             Dozen
             of
             these
             
               Female
               Pyrates
            
             ,
             who
             ,
             in
             spite
             of
             the
             Captain
             ,
             carry'd
             off
             an
             equal
             Number
             of
             Prizes
             ;
             for
             Mariners
             look
             
             upon
             this
             Port
             as
             a
             priviledg'd
             Place
             ,
             where
             they
             may
             ramble
             without
             controul
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             they
             find
             Pleasure
             is
             not
             a
             cheap
             Commodity
             in
             this
             place
             ;
             for
             these
             Ladies
             are
             not
             so
             Hospitable
             as
             to
             entertain
             Travellers
             Gratis
             ,
             and
             they
             usually
             set
             a
             very
             high
             price
             on
             their
             Favours
             ,
             especially
             at
             Rome
             ,
             which
             may
             be
             call'd
             the
             
               Centre
               of
               Whores
            
             .
             I
             will
             not
             pretend
             to
             warrant
             the
             Truth
             of
             their
             Opinion
             ,
             who
             say
             ,
             That
             at
             Rome
             Whores
             may
             sue
             a
             Man
             for
             their
             Hire
             :
             But
             I
             can
             assure
             you
             ,
             that
             they
             may
             and
             do
             demand
             the
             Assistance
             of
             the
             Corte
             ,
             or
             Watch
             ,
             who
             have
             Orders
             to
             protect
             'em
             ,
             and
             see
             'em
             paid
             ,
             according
             to
             the
             Quality
             of
             the
             Person
             .
             The
             Corte
             is
             a
             Band
             of
             Sbirri's
             ,
             who
             walk
             the
             Rounds
             every
             Night
             ,
             to
             prevent
             Disorders
             ;
             but
             their
             Authority
             is
             so
             small
             ,
             and
             the
             care
             they
             take
             to
             suppress
             Abuses
             so
             ineffectual
             ,
             that
             I
             know
             not
             whether
             the
             City
             receives
             any
             Benefit
             by
             'em
             :
             For
             since
             they
             are
             not
             permitted
             to
             Fire
             at
             any
             Person
             ,
             't
             is
             easie
             for
             any
             Man
             that
             has
             the
             Advantage
             of
             a
             Nimble
             Pair
             of
             Heels
             ,
             to
             avoid
             falling
             into
             their
             Clutches
             ;
             and
             there
             are
             some
             roaring
             Hectors
             ,
             who
             not
             only
             make
             Head
             against
             'em
             ,
             but
             even
             keep
             'em
             in
             Awe
             .
             I
             might
             reckon
             up
             a
             Thousand
             Instances
             of
             such
             insolent
             Villanies
             ;
             but
             I
             shall
             content
             my self
             with
             mentioning
             one
             that
             happen'd
             very
             lately
             :
             The
             City
             was
             never
             plagu'd
             with
             a
             more
             desperate
             Villain
             than
             a
             certain
             Neapolitan
             Lord
             ,
             call'd
             ,
             
               The
               Prince
               de
               la
               Matrice
            
             ,
             who
             was
             Ring-leader
             of
             Fifty
             Bandits
             that
             were
             fit
             Companions
             for
             such
             a
             Master
             :
             He
             and
             his
             Gang
             made
             all
             the
             Sbirri's
             in
             Rome
             quake
             ,
             and
             continu'd
             their
             Insolences
             above
             a
             Year
             ,
             till
             at
             last
             the
             Pope
             having
             issu'd
             out
             an
             Order
             to
             take
             him
             alive
             or
             dead
             ,
             he
             took
             Sanctuary
             in
             a
             Church
             ,
             where
             he
             Capitulated
             with
             his
             Holiness
             ,
             and
             was
             permitted
             to
             depart
             with
             Bag
             and
             Baggage
             ,
             he
             and
             all
             his
             Companions
             .
             'T
             is
             certainly
             
             a
             very
             great
             Abuse
             ,
             that
             Churches
             shou'd
             serve
             as
             places
             of
             Retreat
             for
             Villains
             ;
             and
             so
             long
             as
             these
             Privileges
             remain
             ,
             the
             abolishing
             of
             the
             Franchises
             will
             never
             put
             a
             Stop
             to
             the
             reigning
             Disorders
             .
             But
             ,
             which
             is
             still
             more
             intolerable
             ,
             the
             Churches
             are
             not
             only
             so
             many
             Sanctuaries
             to
             secure
             Malefactors
             from
             Punishment
             ,
             but
             the
             Theatres
             where
             they
             act
             their
             Villanies
             .
             The
             other
             Day
             ,
             when
             the
             People
             were
             met
             to
             hear
             Vesper's
             at
             the
             Church
             of
             S.
             Lewis
             ,
             and
             were
             busie
             at
             their
             Devotion
             ,
             Fifteen
             or
             Twenty
             Persons
             cry'd
             out
             on
             a
             sudden
             ,
             
               Fly
               ,
               fly
               ,
               the
               Church
               is
               falling
            
             ;
             and
             immediately
             run
             towards
             the
             Door
             ,
             with
             so
             many
             signs
             of
             Fear
             ,
             that
             the
             People
             were
             almost
             persuaded
             that
             the
             Church
             was
             tumbling
             about
             their
             Ears
             .
             And
             since
             on
             such
             Occasions
             't
             is
             natural
             for
             a
             Man
             to
             think
             of
             saving
             himself
             ,
             before
             he
             consider
             the
             greatness
             or
             probability
             of
             the
             Danger
             ,
             the
             People
             in
             the
             Church
             follow'd
             those
             whom
             they
             saw
             running
             out
             ,
             with
             so
             much
             haste
             and
             confusion
             ,
             that
             several
             Persons
             were
             trodden
             under
             Foot
             ,
             and
             so
             hurt
             that
             they
             were
             forc'd
             to
             keep
             their
             Beds
             .
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             the
             Rogues
             were
             not
             idle
             Spectatours
             of
             the
             Fright
             they
             had
             occasion'd
             ;
             and
             some
             began
             to
             miss
             their
             Purses
             ,
             and
             others
             their
             Silver-hilted
             Swords
             ,
             assoon
             as
             the
             Tumult
             was
             appeas'd
             ,
             and
             the
             Cheat
             discover'd
             .
          
           
             During
             my
             abode
             at
             Rome
             ,
             I
             had
             the
             fortune
             to
             meet
             with
             the
             same
             Priest
             ,
             who
             ,
             as
             I
             told
             you
             in
             one
             of
             my
             preceeding
             Letters
             ,
             was
             imprison'd
             at
             Mascon
             on
             suspicion
             of
             Witchcraft
             :
             He
             makes
             his
             Court
             to
             Cardinal
             Chigi
             ,
             whom
             he
             solicites
             very
             earnestly
             ,
             and
             expects
             to
             obtain
             a
             Benefice
             from
             him
             ;
             but
             he
             is
             certainly
             an
             incorrigible
             Fool
             ,
             as
             you
             may
             perceive
             by
             the
             Account
             he
             gave
             me
             of
             himself
             .
             He
             assur'd
             me
             ,
             that
             he
             entertain'd
             a
             most
             intimate
             Fellowship
             and
             Correspondence
             with
             
             certain
             imaginary
             Inhabitants
             of
             the
             Air
             ,
             by
             whose
             Assistance
             he
             pretends
             that
             one
             may
             easily
             surmount
             all
             Difficulties
             ,
             and
             wou'd
             have
             persuaded
             me
             ,
             that
             these
             Spirits
             open'd
             the
             Doors
             of
             the
             Prison
             when
             he
             was
             in
             danger
             of
             being
             condemn'd
             as
             a
             Sorcerer
             .
             I
             was
             so
             surpriz'd
             at
             the
             Novelty
             and
             Oddness
             of
             his
             Opinion
             ,
             that
             I
             resolv'd
             to
             discourse
             seriously
             with
             him
             about
             it
             ,
             and
             ask'd
             him
             how
             he
             came
             acquainted
             with
             that
             Airy
             People
             ,
             and
             why
             they
             wou'd
             not
             discover
             themselves
             to
             the
             rest
             of
             Mankind
             .
             He
             reply'd
             ,
             that
             they
             communicated
             their
             Favours
             only
             to
             those
             who
             are
             willing
             to
             hearken
             to
             'em
             ,
             and
             to
             enter
             into
             a
             Society
             with
             'em
             ;
             adding
             ,
             that
             they
             have
             many
             Correspondents
             in
             the
             World
             who
             live
             unknown
             ,
             and
             conceal
             themselves
             with
             all
             possible
             Care
             ,
             to
             avoid
             the
             Fate
             of
             so
             many
             Honest
             Persons
             ,
             that
             have
             been
             burnt
             alive
             for
             Witchcraft
             in
             several
             places
             of
             the
             Kingdom
             .
             He
             deny'd
             positively
             that
             there
             were
             any
             Witches
             ,
             saying
             ,
             That
             God
             was
             too
             Just
             and
             Good
             to
             give
             so
             much
             Power
             to
             the
             Devil
             ,
             who
             ,
             according
             to
             his
             Opinion
             ,
             lies
             bound
             in
             Hell
             ,
             from
             whence
             he
             shall
             never
             be
             releas'd
             .
             But
             I
             soon
             perceiv'd
             that
             there
             was
             as
             much
             Confusion
             in
             his
             Brain
             as
             in
             his
             Discourse
             ,
             and
             that
             he
             was
             a
             meer
             
               Fantastical
               Enthusiast
            
             .
          
           
             I
             know
             not
             what
             Credit
             ye
             will
             give
             to
             this
             Man's
             Relation
             concerning
             his
             imaginary
             Acquaintances
             in
             the
             Air
             ;
             but
             you
             may
             firmly
             believe
             the
             Story
             with
             which
             I
             am
             going
             to
             conclude
             my
             Letter
             ,
             since
             I
             was
             an
             Eye-witness
             of
             all
             that
             pass'd
             .
             A
             certain
             Florentine
             Soldier
             in
             this
             City
             ,
             without
             pretending
             to
             be
             invulnerable
             ,
             undertook
             for
             a
             Wager
             of
             a
             Crown
             to
             stand
             as
             a
             Mark
             till
             four
             Bullets
             were
             successively
             shot
             at
             him
             ,
             and
             perform'd
             his
             Undertaking
             without
             receiving
             the
             least
             hurt
             ,
             tho'
             the
             Man
             who
             discharg'd
             the
             
             Gun
             stood
             but
             fifty
             Paces
             from
             him
             ,
             and
             cou'd
             neither
             be
             suspected
             of
             Collusion
             ,
             nor
             want
             of
             Skill
             ,
             since
             all
             the
             four
             Bullets
             pierc'd
             the
             Door
             against
             which
             the
             Florentin
             stood
             .
             You
             will
             doubtless
             look
             upon
             this
             as
             a
             very
             odd
             and
             surprizing
             Accident
             :
             I
             was
             so
             amaz'd
             at
             it
             ,
             that
             I
             know
             not
             whether
             I
             cou'd
             have
             believ'd
             it
             if
             I
             had
             not
             seen
             it
             :
             Yet
             I
             can
             assure
             you
             ,
             that
             the
             Florentin
             is
             no
             Magician
             ,
             and
             that
             his
             Secret
             only
             consists
             in
             shifting
             his
             place
             assoon
             as
             he
             perceives
             the
             flashing
             of
             the
             Powder
             :
             And
             the
             Account
             he
             gave
             me
             of
             the
             easiness
             of
             his
             Undertaking
             ,
             has
             considerably
             lessen'd
             my
             Surprizal
             at
             the
             Success
             of
             it
             :
             However
             ,
             I
             wou'd
             not
             for
             10000
             Pistols
             try
             the
             Experiment
             any
             otherwise
             than
             by
             shooting
             a
             Bullet
             into
             the
             Sea.
             The
             Soldier
             found
             out
             this
             way
             to
             give
             me
             some
             Satisfaction
             ;
             and
             I
             observ'd
             that
             the
             Bullet
             remain'd
             so
             long
             in
             the
             Air
             ,
             that
             a
             Man
             might
             easily
             have
             avoided
             it
             .
          
           
             Our
             Captain
             having
             taken
             in
             all
             his
             Lading
             ,
             expects
             only
             a
             fair
             Wind
             ;
             and
             by
             good
             fortune
             ,
             the
             third
             part
             of
             the
             Cargo
             belongs
             to
             Malta
             ;
             so
             that
             I
             shall
             have
             the
             pleasure
             of
             spending
             at
             the
             least
             Fifteen
             Days
             in
             that
             celebrated
             Island
             .
          
           
             I
             am
             ,
             
               SIR
               ,
            
             
               Your
               &c.
               
            
             
               Leghorn
               ,
               
                 May
                 1690.
                 
              
            
          
        
         
           
           
             LETTER
             X.
             
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
          
           
             THo'
             I
             promis'd
             in
             my
             last
             to
             excuse
             you
             from
             sharing
             with
             us
             in
             the
             Inconveniencies
             of
             the
             Sea
             ,
             and
             to
             bring
             you
             from
             France
             to
             Turkey
             ,
             without
             meeting
             with
             one
             Storm
             ;
             I
             cannot
             forbear
             giving
             you
             account
             of
             one
             that
             overtook
             us
             in
             the
             height
             of
             Sardinia
             .
             And
             I
             have
             even
             the
             confidence
             to
             think
             that
             you
             will
             not
             complain
             of
             my
             breach
             of
             Promise
             ,
             since
             we
             had
             all
             the
             Trouble
             ,
             and
             you
             will
             only
             have
             the
             Pleasure
             ;
             if
             there
             be
             any
             truth
             in
             the
             common
             Observation
             ,
             That
             Men
             usually
             take
             delight
             in
             hearing
             a
             Relation
             of
             distant
             Misfortunes
             .
          
           
             The
             pleasure
             of
             our
             Voyage
             was
             not
             disturb'd
             for
             the
             first
             two
             Days
             ,
             tho'
             we
             made
             no
             great
             Progress
             ;
             but
             on
             the
             Third
             ,
             about
             seven
             in
             the
             Morning
             ,
             there
             arose
             on
             the
             sudden
             a
             most
             furious
             North-East
             Wind
             ,
             which
             burst
             our
             Sails
             as
             if
             they
             had
             been
             made
             of
             Paper
             ;
             and
             between
             the
             Wind
             on
             one
             side
             ,
             and
             the
             South-West
             Surges
             on
             the
             other
             ,
             our
             Ship
             was
             so
             violently
             toss'd
             ,
             that
             our
             Mariners
             durst
             not
             stir
             from
             the
             Sides
             of
             the
             Ship
             ,
             for
             fear
             of
             being
             wash'd
             off
             by
             the
             Waves
             .
             Never
             was
             there
             any
             Object
             more
             capable
             of
             striking
             Terrour
             into
             the
             Spectatour
             ;
             never
             any
             Noise
             more
             frightful
             and
             amazing
             than
             that
             which
             was
             occasion'd
             by
             the
             tumbling
             of
             the
             Casks
             and
             Boxes
             ,
             the
             Wind
             ,
             Thunder
             ,
             and
             Sea
             ,
             the
             cracking
             of
             the
             Ship
             ,
             and
             the
             howling
             of
             some
             Women
             that
             were
             on
             board
             .
             A
             horrid
             Gloom
             turn'd
             the
             Day
             into
             Night
             ,
             and
             was
             succeeded
             by
             a
             Flash
             of
             Lightning
             that
             cover'd
             our
             
             Ship
             for
             above
             a
             Minute
             ,
             and
             was
             accompany'd
             with
             a
             terrible
             and
             stupefying
             Crack
             .
             I
             know
             not
             what
             we
             did
             in
             the
             mean
             time
             ,
             nor
             was
             there
             one
             among
             my
             Fellow-Passengers
             that
             cou'd
             inform
             me
             what
             was
             done
             in
             that
             dreadful
             Minute
             :
             For
             we
             were
             all
             so
             stunn'd
             ,
             that
             there
             were
             hardly
             any
             Signs
             of
             Life
             left
             in
             us
             .
             All
             the
             Account
             I
             can
             give
             you
             is
             ,
             that
             when
             we
             recover'd
             our
             senses
             ,
             we
             perceiv'd
             that
             the
             Lightning
             had
             left
             a
             thick
             and
             black
             Smoak
             ,
             accompany'd
             with
             a
             sulphureous
             and
             noisom
             Stench
             ,
             that
             wou'd
             have
             kill●d
             us
             if
             it
             had
             lasted
             a
             quarter
             of
             an
             Hour
             ;
             but
             it
             was
             dissipated
             in
             a
             Moment
             .
             We
             found
             also
             that
             we
             were
             remov'd
             from
             the
             places
             where
             we
             were
             when
             the
             Lightning
             fell
             ;
             which
             Change
             ,
             doubtless
             ,
             proceeded
             from
             the
             violent
             Motion
             and
             Agitation
             of
             the
             Ship.
             Among
             the
             rest
             ,
             one
             of
             the
             Ship-Boys
             who
             lay
             sculking
             in
             the
             Fore-Castle
             ,
             was
             thrown
             upon
             the
             Hatches
             in
             the
             other
             end
             of
             the
             Ship
             ,
             and
             so
             bruis'd
             ,
             and
             black
             with
             Contusions
             ,
             (
             tho'
             I
             may
             say
             more
             properly
             ,
             that
             there
             was
             only
             one
             Contusion
             ,
             which
             cover'd
             his
             whole
             Body
             )
             that
             we
             have
             still
             reason
             to
             doubt
             of
             his
             Recovery
             .
             The
             Mariners
             concluded
             that
             the
             Devil
             was
             the
             Author
             of
             all
             these
             Disorders
             ,
             and
             that
             there
             was
             some
             Person
             in
             the
             Company
             under
             a
             Sentence
             of
             Excommunication
             :
             For
             (
             you
             know
             )
             extraordinary
             Accidents
             are
             usually
             esteem'd
             Miracles
             by
             the
             superstitious
             Vulgar
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             the
             throwing
             of
             the
             Boy
             so
             far
             may
             at
             the
             first
             View
             seem
             to
             be
             above
             the
             Power
             of
             Nature
             ;
             but
             an
             attentive
             Considerer
             will
             not
             be
             much
             surpriz'd
             at
             this
             Effect
             of
             the
             Tempest
             ,
             since
             this
             is
             not
             the
             first
             time
             that
             a
             Hurricane
             has
             snatch'd
             up
             Men
             ,
             and
             even
             whole
             Ships
             .
             This
             puts
             me
             in
             mind
             of
             a
             Story
             almost
             of
             the
             same
             Nature
             ,
             which
             I
             heard
             at
             Guernsey
             ,
             a
             little
             Island
             ,
             subject
             to
             the
             Crown
             of
             England
             .
             
             It
             happen'd
             one
             Day
             ,
             that
             during
             a
             violent
             Storm
             ,
             a
             Flash
             of
             Lightning
             set
             fire
             to
             the
             Powder
             in
             the
             Castle
             ,
             and
             blew
             it
             up
             ,
             with
             the
             whole
             Garrison
             .
             Only
             Ten
             or
             Twelve
             Persons
             escap'd
             ,
             among
             whom
             the
             Governour
             had
             the
             good
             fortune
             to
             be
             preserv'd
             in
             a
             very
             singular
             manner
             :
             They
             assur'd
             me
             that
             he
             was
             carry'd
             thro'
             the
             Air
             in
             his
             Bed
             ,
             and
             laid
             down
             upon
             the
             Castle
             Wall
             ,
             the
             Foot
             of
             which
             is
             bath'd
             by
             the
             Sea
             ;
             and
             that
             not
             knowing
             how
             to
             get
             down
             ,
             because
             the
             Wall
             was
             equally
             steep
             on
             both
             sides
             ,
             he
             remain'd
             there
             till
             the
             Weather
             began
             to
             grow
             calm
             ,
             and
             then
             made
             signs
             to
             the
             People
             of
             the
             Town
             ,
             who
             came
             to
             his
             Assistance
             .
          
           
             This
             furious
             Tempest
             was
             succeeded
             by
             pretty
             fair
             Weather
             ,
             which
             we
             enjoy'd
             during
             the
             rest
             of
             our
             Voyage
             to
             Malta
             ,
             where
             we
             arriv'd
             six
             Days
             after
             ,
             and
             in
             nine
             Days
             from
             Leghorn
             ;
             so
             that
             we
             made
             above
             a
             hundred
             Miles
             a
             Day
             ,
             for
             the
             distance
             betwixt
             these
             two
             Places
             amounts
             to
             about
             a
             Thousand
             Miles
             .
             We
             had
             no
             reason
             to
             complain
             of
             the
             slowness
             of
             our
             Passage
             ,
             tho
             '
             we
             might
             have
             perform'd
             the
             Voyage
             much
             sooner
             if
             the
             Wind
             had
             been
             constantly
             favourable
             :
             For
             the
             Captain
             assur'd
             me
             ,
             that
             the
             
               Great
               Master
            
             of
             Malta
             ,
             having
             sent
             an
             express
             to
             Aix
             in
             Provence
             ,
             the
             Ship
             on
             which
             the
             Messenger
             embark'd
             ,
             met
             with
             so
             strong
             an
             Easterly
             Wind
             ,
             that
             she
             was
             carry'd
             nine
             hundred
             Miles
             in
             three
             Days
             ,
             and
             arriv'd
             at
             the
             Port
             of
             Marseilles
             ,
             where
             finding
             another
             Ship
             ready
             to
             set
             sail
             for
             Malta
             ,
             he
             took
             Post
             for
             Aix
             ,
             and
             having
             dispatch'd
             his
             Business
             ,
             return'd
             the
             same
             Night
             to
             Marseilles
             ,
             where
             he
             embark'd
             in
             that
             Vessel
             ,
             which
             immediately
             set
             sail
             with
             a
             most
             favourable
             Westerly
             Gale
             ,
             and
             in
             three
             Days
             arriv'd
             at
             Malta
             :
             So
             that
             in
             Seven
             Days
             he
             perform'd
             a
             Voyage
             of
             eighteen
             hundred
             Miles
             ,
             travell'd
             ten
             Leagues
             by
             Land
             ,
             and
             dispatch'd
             his
             Affairs
             .
             I
             
             must
             confess
             few
             Travellers
             are
             so
             fortunate
             ;
             but
             that
             which
             happens
             rarely
             may
             happen
             sometimes
             .
          
           
             This
             Island
             was
             of
             old
             call'd
             Melita
             ;
             and
             its
             present
             Name
             is
             an
             Abbreviation
             or
             Corruption
             of
             the
             former
             :
             It
             lies
             in
             the
             thirty
             fourth
             Degree
             of
             North
             Latitude
             ,
             being
             seventy
             Miles
             in
             compass
             ,
             twenty
             five
             long
             ,
             and
             ten
             broad
             .
             Under
             the
             Reign
             of
             Augustus
             ,
             and
             long
             before
             ,
             't
             was
             govern'd
             by
             its
             own
             Kings
             ,
             from
             whom
             it
             was
             taken
             by
             the
             Saracens
             ,
             who
             afterwards
             lost
             it
             to
             the
             Christians
             .
             In
             the
             Year
             1530
             ,
             Charles
             V.
             erected
             it
             into
             a
             Sovereignty
             ,
             which
             he
             bestow'd
             on
             the
             Knights
             of
             S.
             John
             ,
             who
             eight
             Years
             before
             were
             driven
             out
             of
             Rhodes
             by
             the
             Turks
             ,
             and
             had
             till
             then
             ●rov'd
             as
             Pyrates
             upon
             the
             Sea.
             The
             Conditions
             of
             the
             Donation
             were
             ,
             That
             the
             Nomination
             of
             the
             Bishop
             shou'd
             belong
             to
             him
             ;
             That
             the
             Knights
             shou'd
             present
             him
             Yearly
             with
             a
             Falcon
             ,
             as
             a
             Mark
             of
             Homage
             ;
             and
             that
             they
             shou'd
             not
             receive
             into
             their
             Ports
             any
             Ships
             or
             Vessels
             at
             Enmity
             with
             the
             Crown
             of
             Spain
             ,
             which
             they
             punctually
             observe
             to
             this
             Day
             .
             But
             the
             Spaniard
             has
             no
             reason
             to
             boast
             of
             this
             Custom
             as
             a
             peculiar
             Mark
             of
             Honour
             or
             Acknowledgment
             ,
             since
             his
             Ships
             meet
             with
             the
             same
             Treatment
             with
             those
             of
             other
             Princes
             ,
             and
             are
             never
             admitted
             into
             the
             Harbours
             of
             this
             Island
             .
             I
             'm
             so
             loth
             to
             send
             you
             an
             imperfect
             Account
             of
             this
             Place
             ,
             that
             I
             cannot
             forbear
             taking
             notice
             of
             the
             famous
             Siege
             which
             it
             suffer'd
             Ann.
             1565.
             tho'
             I
             cannot
             reasonably
             suppose
             you
             to
             be
             ignorant
             of
             a
             Transaction
             that
             made
             so
             great
             a
             Noise
             in
             the
             World.
             
               Sultan
               Solyman
            
             ,
             resolving
             to
             extirpate
             the
             whole
             Order
             ,
             sent
             a
             formidable
             Army
             against
             'em
             ,
             under
             the
             command
             of
             
               Sinan
               Bassa
            
             ,
             who
             possess'd
             himself
             of
             the
             Island
             ,
             burnt
             the
             Villages
             ,
             made
             the
             Inhabitants
             Slaves
             ,
             and
             destroy'd
             the
             whole
             Country
             with
             Fire
             and
             
             Sword.
             But
             the
             Castle
             of
             S.
             Angelo
             put
             a
             Stop
             to
             his
             Fury
             ,
             and
             resisted
             all
             his
             Attacks
             ,
             till
             upon
             the
             News
             of
             the
             approach
             of
             the
             powerful
             Aids
             sent
             by
             the
             Christian
             Princes
             ,
             he
             was
             forc'd
             to
             make
             a
             disorderly
             Retreat
             ,
             leaving
             two
             great
             pieces
             of
             Cannon
             ,
             one
             of
             which
             lies
             at
             the
             bottom
             of
             the
             Water
             in
             the
             Port
             ;
             and
             the
             other
             under
             the
             Baraque
             of
             Italy
             ,
             commonly
             call
             d
             ,
             
               The
               great
               Basilisk
            
             ,
             and
             carrying
             120
             pound
             Ball.
             The
             next
             Year
             the
             
               Great
               Master
               ,
               de
               la
               Valette
               ,
            
             laid
             the
             Foundation
             of
             the
             New
             City
             ,
             and
             call'd
             it
             by
             his
             own
             Name
             .
             I
             may
             venture
             to
             say
             ,
             without
             an
             Hyperbole
             ,
             that
             this
             is
             the
             strongest
             City
             in
             the
             World
             :
             I
             never
             saw
             so
             many
             ,
             nor
             better
             contriv'd
             Works
             ;
             and
             besides
             ,
             the
             Strength
             of
             the
             Place
             is
             very
             considerably
             augmented
             by
             the
             Advantages
             of
             its
             Situation
             ;
             for
             all
             the
             Half-Moons
             and
             Bastions
             are
             cut
             out
             of
             the
             Rock
             ,
             as
             well
             as
             the
             Counterscarp
             that
             defends
             'em
             ;
             and
             the
             Ditches
             ,
             which
             in
             some
             places
             are
             sixty
             Foot
             deep
             ,
             and
             proportionably
             broad
             .
          
           
             The
             Castle
             of
             S.
             Angelo
             is
             in
             the
             Old
             City
             ,
             which
             is
             separated
             from
             the
             other
             by
             a
             double
             Port
             ,
             consisting
             of
             two
             Harbours
             ,
             divided
             by
             a
             Neck
             of
             Land
             ,
             which
             have
             but
             one
             Mouth
             .
             At
             the
             end
             of
             this
             Isthmus
             stands
             the
             Castle
             of
             S.
             Elm
             ,
             defending
             the
             Entry
             of
             both
             Ports
             ,
             in
             one
             of
             which
             the
             Ships
             that
             arrive
             are
             oblig'd
             to
             perform
             their
             Quarantain
             ,
             having
             the
             conveniency
             of
             a
             little
             Island
             ,
             which
             serves
             as
             a
             Lazaretto
             for
             the
             Passengers
             and
             their
             Goods
             .
             On
             the
             other
             side
             is
             the
             great
             Harbour
             ,
             frequented
             by
             those
             who
             are
             permitted
             to
             converse
             with
             the
             Inhabitants
             .
             Both
             these
             Harbours
             are
             safe
             and
             convenient
             ;
             but
             the
             Entry
             is
             extremely
             dangerous
             ,
             by
             reason
             of
             the
             Rocks
             that
             lie
             hid
             under
             the
             Water
             .
          
           
             The
             New
             City
             ,
             call'd
             Valette
             ,
             is
             seated
             partly
             on
             the
             Top
             ,
             and
             partly
             on
             the
             Declivity
             of
             a
             rising
             Ground
             ,
             descending
             to
             the
             Shoar
             .
             The
             
             Streets
             are
             streight
             ,
             running
             in
             parallel
             Lines
             both
             thro'
             the
             Length
             and
             Breadth
             of
             the
             City
             ,
             and
             are
             so
             contriv●d
             ,
             that
             the
             Ascent
             is
             only
             discernable
             in
             four
             or
             five
             ,
             the
             rest
             being
             exactly
             level
             .
             The
             Houses
             are
             generally
             fair
             ,
             built
             after
             the
             Italian
             Fashion
             ,
             with
             Platforms
             on
             the
             Top
             ;
             so
             that
             the
             Sketch
             of
             the
             New
             City
             resembles
             perfectly
             a
             
               Rectilinear
               Amphitheatre
            
             .
             The
             Old
             City
             is
             not
             so
             beautiful
             ,
             and
             is
             at
             present
             only
             inhabited
             by
             the
             Common
             People
             ;
             yet
             't
             is
             the
             Seat
             of
             the
             Bishop
             and
             his
             Chapter
             ,
             which
             may
             vie
             with
             any
             Society
             of
             that
             Nature
             in
             Italy
             ,
             being
             compos'd
             of
             four
             and
             twenty
             Canons
             ,
             who
             wear
             the
             Episcopal
             Habit
             ,
             and
             have
             each
             a
             Thousand
             Crowns
             a
             Year
             .
          
           
             There
             is
             but
             one
             publick
             Place
             or
             Square
             in
             the
             City
             Valette
             ,
             which
             is
             considerable
             for
             its
             Beauty
             ,
             adorn'd
             with
             a
             Fountain
             in
             the
             middle
             ,
             the
             Water
             of
             which
             falling
             into
             a
             Basket
             of
             Stone
             so
             artificially
             cut
             ,
             that
             it
             seems
             to
             be
             transparent
             ,
             makes
             one
             of
             the
             pleasantest
             Cascades
             in
             the
             World.
             The
             Front
             of
             the
             Great
             Master's
             Palace
             makes
             one
             intire
             side
             of
             the
             Square
             .
             There
             is
             nothing
             admirable
             either
             in
             the
             Inside
             or
             Outside
             of
             this
             Structure
             ;
             't
             is
             of
             a
             Square
             Figure
             ,
             and
             separated
             from
             the
             Neighbouring
             Buildings
             by
             four
             Streets
             .
             'T
             is
             divided
             into
             the
             Winter
             and
             Summer
             Apartments
             :
             The
             first
             ,
             which
             is
             the
             most
             ancient
             and
             least
             beautiful
             ,
             is
             painted
             throughout
             with
             the
             Representations
             of
             Victories
             obtain'd
             over
             the
             Turks
             ,
             and
             particularly
             the
             raising
             of
             the
             Siege
             of
             Malta
             ,
             accompany'd
             with
             Explanatory
             Inscriptions
             .
             The
             Summer
             Apartment
             was
             built
             by
             the
             late
             Great
             Master
             ,
             Vignacourt
             ,
             who
             beautify●d
             Malta
             with
             so
             many
             Ornaments
             ,
             and
             wou'd
             have
             certainly
             made
             this
             a
             very
             Magnificent
             Palace
             ,
             if
             Death
             had
             not
             interrupted
             his
             Designs
             .
             That
             which
             is
             chiefly
             remarkable
             in
             it
             is
             the
             
               Hall
               of
               Arms
            
             ,
             where
             there
             are
             30000
             Muskets
             ,
             as
             many
             
             Bandaliers
             ,
             10000
             Cuirasses
             and
             Helmets
             ,
             with
             a
             proportionable
             Number
             of
             Swords
             ,
             Pikes
             ,
             Pistols
             ,
             and
             Scimitars
             ,
             all
             rank'd
             in
             the
             finest
             Order
             imaginable
             .
             There
             is
             an
             incredible
             number
             of
             cast
             Pieces
             of
             Cannon
             in
             this
             City
             ;
             for
             tho'
             I
             never
             reckon'd
             'em
             my self
             ,
             I
             'm
             assur'd
             by
             Persons
             of
             unquestion'd
             Credit
             ,
             that
             there
             are
             1060
             ,
             and
             all
             of
             a
             considerable
             bigness
             .
          
           
             The
             Churches
             of
             Malta
             are
             incomparably
             beautiful
             ,
             the
             Italian
             Neatness
             reigns
             throughout
             ,
             and
             they
             are
             every
             where
             adorn'd
             with
             Painting
             and
             Gilding
             .
             The
             principal
             Church
             is
             dedicated
             to
             S.
             
               John
               Baptist
            
             ,
             the
             Patron
             of
             the
             Order
             :
             The
             Prospect
             of
             it
             is
             not
             very
             pleasant
             ;
             but
             to
             make
             amends
             for
             the
             Defects
             of
             the
             Outside
             ,
             I
             never
             saw
             any
             thing
             that
             cou'd
             with
             Justice
             be
             compar'd
             to
             the
             Richness
             and
             Beauty
             of
             the
             Inside
             .
             'T
             is
             as
             light
             as
             an
             open
             Field
             ,
             and
             all
             its
             Ornaments
             appear
             with
             so
             unclouded
             a
             Lustre
             ,
             and
             so
             charm
             the
             Eye
             of
             the
             Spectatour
             ,
             that
             I
             believe
             never
             any
             Man
             came
             out
             of
             it
             without
             Reluctancy
             .
             'T
             is
             pav'd
             throughout
             with
             large
             pieces
             of
             black
             and
             white
             Marble
             :
             The
             Walls
             and
             Columns
             are
             lin'd
             to
             the
             very
             Cornices
             ,
             with
             curious
             Wainscotting
             ,
             which
             hardly
             obstructs
             the
             Sight
             ;
             and
             the
             
               Life
               of
               S.
               John
            
             is
             painted
             
               in
               Fresco
            
             ,
             on
             the
             Vault
             ,
             by
             the
             Hand
             of
             the
             
               Chevalier
               Mathias
            
             .
             But
             the
             finest
             Work
             of
             that
             Nature
             in
             the
             Church
             is
             the
             
               beheading
               of
               the
               Holy
               Baptist
            
             ,
             represented
             in
             a
             Chapel
             of
             the
             same
             Name
             ,
             by
             the
             Hand
             of
             
               Michael
               Angelo
            
             ;
             this
             Picture
             was
             presented
             to
             the
             Order
             by
             one
             of
             the
             Dukes
             of
             Florence
             ,
             and
             may
             be
             reckon'd
             a
             very
             considerable
             Complement
             ,
             since
             the
             Princes
             of
             that
             Family
             are
             seldom
             wont
             to
             part
             with
             such
             rare
             and
             beautiful
             Pieces
             .
          
           
             The
             many
             and
             magnificent
             Epitaphs
             of
             the
             
               Great
               Masters
            
             ,
             and
             
               Grand
               Crosses
            
             ,
             with
             their
             Scutcheons
             ,
             are
             none
             of
             the
             least
             remarkable
             Ornaments
             
             of
             this
             Church
             ;
             and
             among
             the
             rest
             ,
             the
             
               Great
               Master
            
             Vignacourt's
             Epitaph
             is
             extremely
             beautiful
             .
          
           
             Every
             one
             of
             the
             
               Seven
               Languages
            
             has
             a
             peculiar
             Chapel
             in
             this
             Church
             ,
             which
             they
             strive
             to
             adorn
             in
             Emulation
             of
             one
             another
             .
             There
             is
             not
             a
             Church
             in
             the
             World
             where
             Vessels
             of
             Gold
             and
             Silver
             are
             more
             common
             than
             in
             this
             .
             Among
             other
             curious
             Works
             ,
             there
             are
             two
             Angels
             of
             the
             last
             of
             these
             Metals
             ,
             as
             big
             as
             the
             Life
             :
             But
             the
             most
             finish'd
             Piece
             is
             a
             golden
             Sun
             of
             
             Filagram-Work
             ,
             to
             receive
             the
             
               Holy
               Sacrament
            
             ,
             of
             which
             the
             Workmanship
             alone
             cost
             2000
             Crowns
             .
             The
             Treasury
             is
             so
             full
             of
             Relicks
             ,
             that
             't
             wou'd
             be
             an
             endless
             Labour
             to
             describe
             ●em
             ;
             and
             therefore
             I
             shall
             only
             tell
             you
             ,
             that
             the
             finest
             Piece
             I
             saw
             in
             it
             is
             the
             
               Bishop's
               Mitre
            
             ,
             set
             all
             over
             with
             the
             richest
             Jewels
             .
          
           
             The
             
               Great
               Altar
            
             in
             the
             Nave
             is
             esteem'd
             one
             of
             the
             most
             magnificent
             Works
             of
             that
             Nature
             in
             Europe
             :
             It
             stands
             by
             it self
             ,
             after
             the
             Modern
             Fashion
             ,
             like
             that
             of
             Strasburg
             ,
             which
             it
             exceeds
             both
             in
             Largeness
             and
             Richness
             .
             I
             saw
             the
             
               Grand
               Prior
            
             of
             the
             Order
             say
             Mass
             here
             in
             Ceremony
             ,
             and
             after
             the
             same
             manner
             as
             the
             Pope
             does
             at
             Rome
             .
             His
             Habit
             is
             not
             different
             from
             that
             of
             a
             Bishop
             ;
             but
             he
             is
             serv'd
             by
             eight
             Deacons
             and
             Sub-Deacons
             ,
             with
             a
             great
             deal
             of
             State
             and
             Ceremony
             .
             The
             place
             where
             he
             sits
             while
             the
             Epistles
             and
             Gospels
             are
             read
             ,
             is
             on
             the
             Right-hand
             as
             you
             go
             to
             the
             Altar
             ,
             and
             directly
             opposite
             to
             the
             
               Great
               Master
            
             ,
             who
             sits
             in
             an
             arm'd
             Chair
             on
             the
             Left-hand
             ,
             unde
             a
             Canopy
             ,
             two
             Pages
             standing
             behind
             to
             serve
             him
             .
             The
             
               Grand
               Crosses
            
             are
             seated
             in
             the
             middle
             of
             the
             Nave
             ,
             on
             a
             double
             Row
             of
             Benches
             ,
             with
             Rails
             or
             Backs
             ,
             which
             enclose
             the
             place
             .
             The
             Bailiffs
             and
             Commanders
             are
             plac'd
             on
             the
             Seats
             behind
             ;
             and
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             Knights
             sit
             
             either
             in
             the
             Chapels
             belonging
             to
             their
             Language
             ,
             or
             in
             any
             other
             part
             of
             the
             Church
             .
             To
             return
             to
             their
             manner
             of
             Officiating
             ;
             I
             observ'd
             two
             Ceremonies
             I
             had
             never
             seen
             before
             ,
             since
             they
             are
             Marks
             of
             Respect
             that
             are
             only
             show'd
             to
             the
             Pope
             :
             For
             there
             are
             two
             Clerks
             who
             fan
             the
             Grand
             Prior's
             Head
             and
             Face
             all
             the
             while
             he
             says
             Mass
             ,
             with
             two
             large
             Fans
             of
             Ostridge
             Feathers
             ;
             and
             after
             he
             has
             done
             ,
             he
             sits
             down
             in
             his
             Chair
             ,
             and
             the
             same
             Clerks
             coming
             in
             their
             Surplices
             ,
             undress
             him
             from
             Head
             to
             Foot
             ,
             pulling
             off
             even
             his
             Slippers
             .
             The
             Prior
             is
             one
             of
             the
             most
             considerable
             Officers
             of
             the
             Order
             ,
             and
             is
             rank'd
             before
             the
             
               Grand
               Crosses
            
             ,
             and
             immediately
             after
             the
             Bishop
             and
             
               Great
               Master
            
             ,
             who
             only
             preceed
             him
             ,
             tho'
             he
             is
             not
             chosen
             out
             of
             the
             Classis
             of
             
               Noble
               Knights
            
             .
             The
             present
             Possessour
             of
             this
             Dignity
             is
             a
             Native
             of
             Aix
             in
             Provence
             ,
             and
             is
             a
             Person
             of
             Merit
             ,
             tho'
             of
             mean
             Birth
             .
          
           
             Since
             I
             have
             insensibly
             enter'd
             upon
             this
             Subject
             ,
             I
             shall
             take
             this
             occasion
             to
             acquaint
             you
             with
             the
             various
             Degrees
             and
             Dignities
             of
             these
             Knights
             ;
             but
             you
             must
             only
             expect
             a
             general
             Idea
             of
             the
             Order
             ,
             and
             I
             believe
             you
             desire
             no
             more
             .
          
           
             The
             usual
             Title
             of
             these
             Knights
             is
             of
             no
             older
             date
             than
             their
             Settlement
             in
             this
             Island
             ;
             for
             according
             to
             their
             Institution
             they
             ought
             to
             be
             call'd
             
               Knights
               of
               S.
               John
               of
               Jerusalem
               .
            
             The
             Design
             of
             the
             Foundation
             was
             for
             Hospitality
             ,
             and
             for
             the
             Relief
             and
             Assistance
             of
             the
             poor
             Pilgrims
             who
             came
             from
             all
             the
             parts
             of
             the
             World
             to
             visit
             the
             
               Holy
               Places
            
             .
             At
             first
             the
             Order
             was
             compos'd
             of
             Persons
             of
             mean
             Rank
             or
             Quality
             ,
             living
             under
             a
             Superiour
             ,
             call'd
             Gerard
             ,
             a
             Frenchman
             by
             birth
             ,
             who
             had
             built
             a
             Hospital
             in
             the
             same
             Place
             where
             they
             pretend
             Zacharias
             us'd
             to
             perform
             his
             Devotions
             ,
             and
             dedicated
             it
             to
             S.
             
               John
               Baptist
            
             .
             This
             Gerard
             ,
             
             who
             may
             be
             reckon'd
             the
             Founder
             of
             the
             Order
             ,
             was
             a
             Man
             of
             a
             very
             Holy
             Life
             ,
             and
             spent
             his
             time
             in
             doing
             all
             the
             Offices
             of
             Hospitality
             ,
             according
             to
             his
             Profession
             .
             'T
             is
             said
             ,
             that
             he
             carry'd
             Bread
             every
             Night
             to
             the
             Christian
             Army
             ,
             when
             Jerusalem
             was
             besieg'd
             by
             Godfrey
             of
             Bouillon
             ;
             and
             that
             being
             suspected
             ,
             he
             was
             narrowly
             observ'd
             ,
             and
             at
             last
             surpriz'd
             in
             the
             very
             act
             .
             Immediately
             he
             was
             seiz'd
             ,
             and
             carry'd
             before
             the
             Governour
             ,
             with
             a
             Burthen
             of
             Loaves
             ,
             which
             were
             miraculously
             chang'd
             into
             Stones
             when
             his
             Accusers
             began
             to
             take
             'em
             out
             of
             the
             Bag
             ;
             so
             that
             he
             was
             fully
             acquitted
             .
          
           
             Sometime
             after
             ,
             Godfrey
             having
             taken
             the
             Town
             ,
             was
             not
             unmindful
             of
             his
             Benefactour
             ;
             he
             caress●d
             him
             ,
             and
             wrote
             in
             his
             Favour
             to
             Pope
             Paschal
             II.
             who
             confirm'd
             him
             and
             his
             Religious
             Company
             in
             the
             Exercise
             of
             their
             Pious
             Occupations
             ,
             by
             a
             Bu●
             I
             granted
             for
             that
             purpose
             ,
             and
             dated
             Octob.
             19.
             1113
             ,
             ordaining
             that
             after
             Gerard's
             Death
             ,
             the
             Rectors
             shou'd
             be
             elected
             by
             the
             Members
             of
             the
             Society
             .
             By
             Virtue
             of
             this
             Bull
             ,
             they
             made
             choice
             of
             one
             Roger
             for
             their
             second
             Rector
             ,
             whom
             they
             afterwards
             honour'd
             with
             the
             Title
             of
             Master
             :
             '
             I
             was
             he
             who
             contriv'd
             and
             establish
             d
             the
             Statutes
             of
             the
             Order
             ,
             and
             made
             his
             Society
             take
             up
             Arms
             against
             the
             Infidels
             :
             He
             order
             d
             em
             to
             wear
             black
             Mantles
             of
             
               Camels
               Skin
            
             ,
             in
             imitation
             of
             S.
             John●s
             Habit
             in
             the
             Wilderness
             ;
             to
             which
             he
             added
             a
             white
             Cross
             with
             eight
             Points
             ,
             to
             denote
             the
             
               Eight
               Beatitudes
            
             .
             This
             Habit
             is
             clos
             d
             at
             the
             Neck
             ,
             and
             has
             two
             Sleeves
             ending
             in
             a
             Point
             ,
             which
             are
             thrown
             backwards
             ,
             that
             the
             Knights
             may
             more
             conveniently
             serve
             and
             assist
             sick
             Persons
             .
             'T
             is
             not
             much
             different
             from
             that
             with
             which
             Esculap●us
             is
             cloath'd
             ,
             in
             Ancient
             Paintings
             .
             This
             Institution
             was
             confirm
             d
             by
             the
             Popes
             ,
             
               Gelasius
               ,
               Calixtus
            
             II.
             and
             Honorius
             II.
             and
             afterwards
             ,
             Ann.
             1130.
             
             by
             Innocent
             II.
             who
             gave
             'em
             for
             Arms
             ,
             
               Gules
               ,
               a
               Cross
               Argent
            
             .
             Under
             Pope
             Honorius
             the
             Pl●beian
             Knights
             were
             not
             only
             separated
             from
             the
             Nobles
             ,
             but
             almost
             excluded
             out
             of
             the
             Order
             ,
             since
             they
             were
             only
             suffer'd
             to
             remain
             in
             it
             in
             the
             Quality
             of
             Chaplains
             or
             Servants
             .
             This
             is
             as
             properly
             a
             Religious
             Order
             as
             that
             of
             the
             Carmelites
             ,
             or
             
               Augustine
               Friars
            
             ;
             and
             when
             the
             
               Great
               Master
            
             writes
             to
             any
             of
             the
             Knights
             ,
             he
             directs
             his
             Letters
             thus
             ;
             
               For
               our
               Dear
               and
               Well-beloved
               ,
               the
               Religious
               Brother
            
             N
             ...
             
               Knight
               of
               the
               Order
               of
               S.
               John.
            
             And
             they
             are
             qualify
             d
             with
             the
             same
             Title
             in
             all
             Publick
             Writings
             at
             Malta
             .
          
           
             On
             the
             Day
             of
             their
             Profession
             ,
             they
             must
             brandish
             a
             Sword
             thrice
             ,
             as
             it
             were
             to
             defie
             the
             Enemies
             of
             the
             Name
             of
             Christ
             :
             Afterwards
             they
             take
             the
             Vows
             of
             
               Poverty
               ,
               Chastity
            
             ,
             and
             Obedience
             .
             In
             performance
             of
             the
             First
             ,
             they
             live
             in
             the
             Inns
             of
             their
             respective
             Languages
             ,
             enjoying
             all
             things
             in
             Common
             ,
             and
             the
             Order
             inherits
             their
             Estates
             :
             The
             Second
             hinders
             'em
             from
             Marrying
             ;
             and
             the
             Third
             obliges
             'em
             to
             come
             to
             Malta
             as
             often
             as
             their
             Appearance
             is
             requir'd
             by
             the
             
               Great
               Master
            
             ,
             and
             to
             obey
             all
             his
             Orders
             by
             Virtue
             of
             their
             Holy
             Obedience
             .
             Thus
             they
             content
             themselves
             with
             a
             seeming
             Performance
             of
             these
             Vows
             ,
             but
             their
             Practice
             is
             not
             in
             the
             least
             answerable
             to
             their
             Profession
             :
             For
             ,
             in
             the
             first
             place
             ,
             their
             Poverty
             wou'd
             satisfie
             my
             largest
             Desires
             ,
             since
             most
             of
             'em
             receive
             considerable
             Pensions
             from
             their
             Relations
             ,
             besides
             Eighty
             Crowns
             a
             Year
             from
             their
             respective
             Inns
             ,
             which
             may
             be
             reckon'd
             a
             very
             comfortable
             Maintenance
             .
             Nor
             are
             they
             more
             religious
             Observers
             of
             their
             Second
             Vow
             ;
             they
             are
             just
             as
             Chast
             as
             my self
             ,
             and
             I
             know
             not
             what
             they
             can
             pretend
             to
             enjoy
             in
             Common
             but
             Women
             ,
             whom
             they
             have
             so
             well
             accustom'd
             to
             that
             way
             of
             living
             ,
             that
             a
             Faithful
             Wife
             is
             a
             very
             scarce
             Commodity
             
             in
             Malta
             .
             And
             as
             for
             the
             last
             Vow
             ,
             if
             Obedience
             consist
             in
             Grimaces
             ,
             they
             are
             certainly
             the
             most
             Obedient
             Gentlemen
             in
             the
             World
             ;
             but
             if
             ,
             for
             Example
             ,
             the
             
               Great
               Master
            
             shou'd
             take
             a
             Fancy
             to
             recall
             the
             
               Chevalier
               de
               Noailles
            
             ,
             I
             question
             very
             much
             whether
             he
             wou'd
             obey
             the
             Summons
             .
             To
             conclude
             ,
             I
             cannot
             give
             you
             a
             juster
             Character
             of
             'em
             ,
             than
             in
             their
             own
             Words
             ;
             They
             are
             only
             Poor
             when
             a
             Curtesan
             demands
             her
             Fees
             ;
             Obedient
             at
             Table
             ,
             where
             they
             are
             always
             invited
             to
             Eat
             and
             Drink
             heartily
             ;
             and
             Chast
             at
             Church
             ,
             which
             is
             their
             greatest
             Penance
             .
          
           
             The
             Order
             is
             compos'd
             of
             four
             different
             Classes
             ;
             or
             rather
             there
             is
             only
             one
             ,
             which
             tolerates
             the
             rest
             out
             of
             Charity
             .
             The
             first
             is
             that
             of
             the
             
               Noble
               Knights
            
             ,
             who
             before
             their
             Admission
             must
             prove
             their
             Nobility
             in
             the
             presence
             of
             certain
             Commissioners
             ,
             who
             are
             sent
             to
             examine
             their
             Pedigree
             upon
             the
             Place
             .
             They
             wear
             a
             Cross
             of
             Gold
             enamell'd
             ,
             hanging
             at
             one
             of
             their
             Button-Holes
             ,
             as
             you
             have
             doubtless
             observ'd
             in
             France
             .
             The
             Second
             is
             the
             Class
             of
             Priests
             ,
             who
             for
             the
             most
             part
             are
             not
             noble
             ,
             yet
             wear
             a
             Cross
             ,
             as
             the
             first
             .
             The
             Third
             is
             that
             of
             the
             
               Serving
               Knights
            
             ,
             who
             are
             not
             Noble
             ,
             and
             only
             wear
             a
             Cross
             of
             white
             Sattin
             sow'd
             upon
             their
             Iustaucor
             ,
             and
             of
             a
             different
             Figure
             from
             that
             of
             the
             Nobles
             .
             The
             Fourth
             and
             last
             is
             compos'd
             of
             the
             
               Great
               Master's
               Menial
               Servants
            
             ,
             or
             of
             some
             
               indigent
               Persons
            
             ,
             to
             whom
             he
             grants
             that
             Favour
             ,
             which
             brings
             'em
             no
             other
             Advantage
             than
             the
             usual
             Salary
             of
             fourscore
             Crowns
             ;
             and
             their
             Cross
             is
             like
             that
             of
             the
             
               Serving
               Knights
            
             .
             Of
             all
             the
             Four
             Classes
             ,
             the
             first
             only
             can
             aspire
             to
             the
             Dignities
             of
             the
             Order
             ,
             that
             is
             ,
             to
             the
             Title
             and
             Office
             of
             
               Commanders
               ,
               Grand
               Crosses
            
             ,
             and
             
               Great
               Master
            
             .
             The
             two
             first
             are
             given
             in
             Order
             ,
             according
             to
             their
             Seniority
             ;
             for
             the
             oldest
             Knights
             are
             in
             Course
             promoted
             to
             
             be
             Commanders
             ,
             and
             the
             oldest
             Commanders
             to
             be
             
               Grand
               Crosses
            
             .
             But
             the
             Office
             of
             
               Great
               Master
            
             is
             only
             obtain
             d
             by
             Election
             ,
             without
             the
             least
             regard
             to
             Seniority
             ;
             so
             that
             frequently
             a
             simple
             Commander
             is
             preferr'd
             before
             all
             the
             
               Grand
               Crosses
            
             .
          
           
             The
             
               Grand
               Crosses
            
             are
             so
             call'd
             from
             a
             large
             Cross
             of
             white
             Sattin
             ,
             that
             covers
             their
             whole
             Breast
             ,
             from
             their
             first
             Button-Hole
             to
             the
             Belly
             .
             'T
             is
             sew'd
             upon
             a
             kind
             of
             Sleeveless
             Vest
             ,
             meeting
             on
             the
             side
             ,
             which
             in
             Winter
             is
             made
             of
             black
             Cloth
             ,
             and
             in
             Summer
             of
             Silk
             .
             All
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             Knights
             wear
             a
             red
             Vest
             of
             the
             same
             Fashion
             when
             they
             go
             to
             War
             ,
             but
             the
             Cross
             is
             white
             ,
             and
             of
             the
             same
             Figure
             with
             that
             which
             they
             wear
             at
             their
             Button-Holes
             ;
             but
             the
             Cross
             of
             the
             
               Serving
               Knights
            
             is
             of
             a
             Circular
             Figure
             .
          
           
             All
             the
             Employments
             and
             Offices
             of
             Honour
             and
             Profit
             are
             at
             the
             Disposal
             of
             the
             
               Great
               Master
            
             ,
             who
             is
             oblig'd
             to
             chuse
             one
             of
             the
             Nobles
             :
             But
             there
             are
             few
             even
             of
             that
             Classis
             who
             dare
             aspire
             to
             the
             Dignity
             of
             
               Captain
               of
               the
               Galleys
            
             ,
             by
             reason
             of
             the
             vast
             Charge
             that
             attends
             it
             ,
             since
             the
             Order
             only
             allows
             him
             a
             Set
             of
             Plate
             ,
             which
             he
             must
             restore
             when
             he
             quits
             that
             Employment
             .
             But
             to
             make
             amends
             for
             that
             Inconveniency
             ,
             the
             Captains
             of
             the
             Galleys
             are
             soon
             after
             promoted
             to
             a
             Commandery
             ;
             for
             tho'
             I
             told
             you
             that
             these
             Places
             are
             usually
             given
             to
             the
             Senior
             Knights
             ,
             yet
             there
             are
             a
             considerable
             Number
             of
             'em
             at
             the
             
               Great
               Master●s
            
             disposal
             ,
             who
             bestows
             'em
             on
             his
             Favourites
             .
             These
             are
             call'd
             
               Commanderies
               of
               Grace
            
             ,
             or
             Favour
             ,
             which
             exclude
             not
             the
             Possessors
             of
             'em
             from
             enjoying
             the
             Commanderies
             that
             fall
             to
             'em
             by
             right
             of
             Seniority
             :
             And
             besides
             ,
             there
             are
             certain
             particular
             Offices
             belonging
             to
             each
             Language
             ,
             such
             as
             that
             of
             
               Treasurer
               ,
               Master
               of
               the
               Artillery
               ,
            
             &c.
             
             The
             Three
             Sovereign
             Jurisdictions
             of
             Malta
             belong
             to
             the
             College
             of
             the
             
               Grand
               Crosses
            
             .
             The
             First
             is
             the
             
               Great
               
               Council
            
             ,
             compos'd
             of
             all
             the
             Members
             of
             the
             College
             :
             The
             Second
             is
             the
             Council
             of
             the
             Treasury
             ;
             and
             the
             Third
             of
             the
             Marine
             ,
             or
             Admiralty
             ;
             consisting
             each
             of
             three
             Members
             .
             Besides
             ,
             the
             
               Great
               Master
            
             chuses
             every
             Year
             a
             Captain
             of
             the
             Verga
             ,
             who
             must
             be
             a
             Native
             of
             Malta
             ,
             and
             consequently
             no
             Knight
             :
             His
             Office
             is
             to
             administer
             Justice
             to
             the
             Inhabitants
             of
             the
             City
             and
             Country
             .
             This
             right
             of
             Seniority
             which
             gives
             a
             Title
             to
             the
             Offices
             of
             Commanders
             and
             
               Grand
               Crosses
            
             ,
             is
             a
             great
             Mortification
             to
             those
             who
             are
             not
             made
             Knights
             in
             their
             Youth
             :
             And
             therefore
             they
             who
             design
             to
             obtain
             that
             Dignity
             for
             their
             Children
             ,
             procure
             'em
             to
             be
             receiv'd
             into
             the
             Order
             as
             soon
             as
             they
             are
             born
             ,
             that
             they
             may
             not
             wait
             too
             long
             for
             Preferrment
             .
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             ,
             those
             who
             have
             no
             Estates
             live
             in
             their
             respective
             Inns
             ,
             of
             which
             every
             Language
             has
             one
             .
             The
             Seven
             Languages
             are
             those
             of
             
               Provence
               ,
               Auvergne
               ,
               France
               ,
               Italy
               ,
               Arragon
               ,
               Germany
               ,
            
             and
             Castile
             .
             Over
             every
             Language
             there
             is
             a
             
               Grand
               Cross
            
             ,
             to
             whom
             the
             Order
             allows
             eighty
             Crowns
             for
             each
             Man.
             
          
           
             The
             Members
             of
             the
             Second
             Class
             serve
             at
             the
             Altar
             ,
             and
             are
             only
             capable
             of
             Ecclesiastical
             Preferment
             :
             Thus
             they
             may
             obtain
             the
             Offices
             of
             
               Vicars
               ,
               Canons
            
             ,
             and
             
               Grand
               Prior
            
             ,
             which
             is
             the
             highest
             Dignity
             within
             the
             reach
             of
             their
             Ambition
             .
          
           
             The
             
               Serving
               Knights
            
             are
             incapable
             of
             being
             promoted
             to
             the
             Dignity
             of
             a
             
               Grand
               Cross
            
             ,
             or
             of
             enjoying
             a
             Commandery
             by
             right
             of
             Seniority
             ;
             but
             they
             may
             possess
             
               Commanderies
               of
               Grace
            
             ,
             which
             the
             
               Great
               Master
            
             sometimes
             bestows
             on
             'em
             ,
             either
             as
             a
             particular
             Mark
             of
             his
             Kindness
             ,
             or
             as
             a
             Reward
             of
             their
             Valour
             .
             They
             may
             rigg
             out
             Privateers
             under
             the
             Banner
             of
             the
             Order
             ;
             but
             none
             of
             this
             Classis
             can
             be
             made
             
               Captain
               of
               the
               Galleys
            
             ,
             since
             the
             
               Noble
               Knights
            
             wou'd
             not
             submit
             to
             his
             Authority
             .
          
           
           
             As
             for
             the
             
               Great
               Master's
               Knights
            
             ,
             who
             compose
             the
             Fourth
             Class
             ,
             they
             receive
             no
             other
             Honour
             or
             Advantage
             by
             their
             Admission
             into
             the
             Order
             ,
             but
             a
             Salary
             of
             Eighty
             Crowns
             a
             Year
             ,
             and
             the
             Title
             of
             
               Knights
               of
               S.
               John.
            
             
          
           
             To
             these
             Four
             Classes
             I
             might
             add
             a
             Fifth
             ,
             I
             mean
             the
             
               Knights
               of
               the
               Holy
               Sepulchre
            
             ,
             who
             wear
             a
             Cross
             of
             Gold
             Potency
             ;
             but
             since
             they
             are
             not
             acknowledg'd
             by
             the
             
               Knights
               of
               Malta
            
             ,
             and
             have
             no
             other
             Patents
             than
             what
             they
             receive
             from
             the
             
               Fathers
               Observants
            
             ,
             who
             are
             at
             present
             Guardians
             of
             the
             Sepulchre
             ,
             I
             will
             not
             trouble
             you
             with
             a
             farther
             Account
             of
             '
             em
             .
          
           
             Having
             given
             you
             a
             general
             Idea
             of
             the
             Four
             Classes
             ,
             and
             of
             all
             the
             inferiour
             Offices
             ,
             I
             shall
             in
             the
             next
             place
             proceed
             to
             consider
             the
             Supreme
             Dignity
             of
             the
             Order
             .
             The
             
               Great
               ,
               Master
            
             is
             very
             careful
             to
             preserve
             the
             Respect
             due
             to
             his
             Character
             ,
             and
             seldom
             Converses
             familiarly
             with
             the
             Knights
             ,
             nor
             even
             with
             the
             
               Grand
               Crosses
            
             .
             When
             he
             goes
             to
             Church
             ,
             all
             the
             Knights
             whom
             he
             meets
             in
             the
             Square
             ,
             and
             by
             the
             Way
             ,
             join
             in
             his
             Train
             ;
             and
             when
             he
             returns
             they
             make
             a
             double
             File
             ,
             thro'
             which
             he
             passes
             .
             All
             the
             Officers
             of
             his
             Houshold
             are
             
               Noble
               Knights
            
             ,
             even
             the
             very
             Pages
             ,
             of
             whom
             he
             entertains
             twenty
             four
             .
             His
             principal
             Officers
             are
             the
             
               Master
               of
               the
               Horse
            
             ,
             the
             
               Major
               Domo
            
             ,
             and
             the
             
               High
               Chamberlain
            
             .
             The
             present
             
               Great
               Master
            
             is
             descended
             from
             the
             Illustrious
             House
             of
             Caraffa
             :
             He
             is
             a
             large
             and
             thick
             Man
             ,
             of
             a
             good
             Mien
             ,
             but
             very
             old
             :
             He
             keeps
             a
             Table
             for
             a
             hundred
             Knights
             ,
             whom
             he
             chuses
             to
             be
             partakers
             of
             his
             Bounty
             ,
             and
             who
             by
             that
             means
             may
             save
             the
             Pension
             they
             receive
             from
             the
             Order
             .
          
           
             The
             Habits
             of
             the
             Knights
             are
             very
             different
             at
             Malta
             :
             The
             
               French
               ,
               Italians
            
             ,
             and
             Spaniards
             retaining
             the
             Modes
             of
             their
             respective
             Nations
             .
             The
             Garb
             of
             the
             last
             is
             so
             odd
             ,
             that
             I
             cannot
             forbear
             
             giving
             you
             some
             Account
             of
             it
             :
             They
             wear
             a
             Doublet
             slit
             before
             and
             behind
             ,
             and
             the
             Sleeves
             are
             also
             slit
             ,
             and
             close
             at
             the
             Wrists
             ;
             an
             old-fashion'd
             Collar
             ,
             narrow
             Breeches
             fasten'd
             with
             Buttons
             ;
             and
             ,
             in
             a
             Word
             ,
             I
             cou'd
             not
             chuse
             a
             more
             Comical
             Habit
             if
             I
             were
             going
             to
             act
             the
             Spaniard
             in
             a
             Mask
             .
             The
             Italians
             are
             dress'd
             exactly
             like
             so
             many
             Scaramouchi●s
             .
          
           
             The
             Order
             takes
             care
             to
             preserve
             some
             external
             Marks
             of
             Hospitality
             ,
             which
             ,
             as
             I
             told
             you
             ,
             was
             the
             Design
             of
             their
             Institution
             :
             They
             keep
             a
             Magnificent
             Hospital
             ,
             endow'd
             with
             a
             Revenue
             of
             50000
             Livres
             .
             The
             Commandery
             of
             it
             belongs
             to
             the
             
               French
               Language
            
             ,
             and
             is
             one
             of
             the
             principal
             Offices
             of
             the
             Order
             :
             The
             Magnificence
             of
             the
             Structure
             does
             not
             appear
             on
             the
             Outside
             ,
             but
             the
             Apartments
             are
             very
             fine
             .
             There
             are
             five
             Halls
             ,
             capable
             of
             containing
             four
             hundred
             sick
             Persons
             ,
             who
             are
             serv'd
             by
             the
             Knights
             when
             they
             Eat
             or
             Drink
             ,
             the
             Servants
             of
             the
             Hospital
             taking
             care
             of
             the
             rest
             .
             The
             Vessels
             are
             generally
             of
             Silver
             ;
             the
             Beds
             are
             good
             ,
             and
             the
             Linen
             is
             chang'd
             pretty
             often
             .
             And
             besides
             ,
             the
             diseas'd
             are
             so
             plentifully
             furnish'd
             with
             all
             things
             that
             are
             proper
             for
             their
             Entertainment
             and
             Cure
             ,
             that
             the
             Knights
             themselves
             scruple
             not
             to
             lodge
             here
             when
             they
             are
             sick
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             they
             are
             not
             laid
             in
             the
             same
             Rooms
             with
             so
             many
             dead
             and
             dying
             Persons
             ,
             whose
             Company
             alone
             wou'd
             infect
             the
             soundest
             Man
             in
             the
             World
             with
             their
             Distempers
             :
             For
             they
             lie
             in
             separate
             Halls
             ,
             and
             are
             serv'd
             apart
             .
             Catholicks
             of
             all
             Nations
             ,
             without
             exception
             ,
             are
             receiv'd
             into
             the
             Hospital
             ;
             but
             these
             Acts
             of
             Charity
             are
             not
             very
             Chargeable
             to
             the
             Order
             ,
             since
             their
             Guests
             are
             seldom
             very
             Numerous
             .
          
           
             These
             few
             Observations
             may
             suffice
             to
             give
             you
             an
             Idea
             of
             the
             Order
             of
             Malta
             .
             My
             next
             shall
             contain
             an
             Account
             of
             the
             Island
             in
             general
             ,
             and
             
             of
             the
             Manners
             and
             Customs
             of
             its
             Inhabitants
             :
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             I
             wish
             you
             good
             Night
             ,
             and
             am
             ,
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
             
               Your
               &c.
               
            
             
               Malta
               ,
               
                 June
                 1690.
                 
              
            
          
        
         
           
             LETTER
             XI
             .
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
          
           
             MAlta
             is
             so
             low
             an
             Island
             that
             't
             is
             scarce
             discernible
             above
             twenty
             Miles
             off
             at
             Sea
             ,
             even
             in
             the
             clearest
             Weather
             ;
             so
             that
             many
             Ships
             pass
             by
             without
             perceiving
             it
             .
             There
             are
             no
             Woods
             in
             it
             by
             reason
             of
             the
             shallowness
             of
             the
             Ground
             ;
             for
             the
             whole
             Island
             is
             only
             a
             dry
             Rock
             ,
             which
             ,
             with
             much
             ado
             ,
             may
             be
             made
             to
             produce
             something
             .
             And
             the
             scarcity
             of
             Earth
             makes
             it
             so
             precious
             ,
             that
             if
             a
             Man
             were
             found
             stealing
             it
             out
             of
             his
             Neighbours
             Grounds
             ,
             he
             wou'd
             be
             punish'd
             with
             the
             utmost
             Severity
             .
             The
             only
             Trees
             that
             grow
             there
             are
             
               Oranges
               ,
               Citrons
               ,
               Apricocks
               ,
               Peaches
               ,
            
             and
             Pomgranates
             ,
             which
             require
             no
             great
             depth
             of
             Earth
             ;
             and
             even
             these
             grow
             only
             in
             certain
             parts
             of
             the
             Island
             ,
             the
             rest
             being
             planted
             with
             Vines
             ,
             which
             bear
             a
             very
             delicious
             Grape
             :
             There
             are
             also
             
               Strawberries
               ,
               Pastaiques
            
             ,
             and
             excellent
             Figs
             ,
             and
             a
             prodigious
             quantity
             of
             the
             best
             M●lo●s
             in
             the
             World
             ,
             which
             we
             eat
             as
             often
             as
             we
             please
             :
             They
             are
             almost
             all
             white
             ,
             but
             sweet
             as
             Sugar
             ,
             and
             melt
             in
             the
             Mouth
             .
             The
             Pastaique
             is
             a
             Fruit
             very
             much
             resembling
             a
             Citrul
             ,
             but
             not
             quite
             so
             big
             .
             'T
             is
             eaten
             raw
             like
             a
             Melon
             ,
             and
             melts
             in
             the
             
             Mouth
             .
             Tho'
             it
             be
             expos'd
             a
             whole
             Day
             to
             the
             Sun-Beams
             ,
             it
             remains
             as
             fresh
             as
             if
             it
             had
             been
             kept
             in
             Snow
             .
             There
             are
             two
             sorts
             of
             it
             ,
             one
             red
             ,
             and
             the
             other
             white
             :
             The
             first
             is
             the
             best
             ;
             but
             the
             Buyer
             must
             take
             'em
             at
             a
             venture
             ,
             as
             well
             as
             Melons
             .
             'T
             is
             the
             usual
             Custom
             when
             five
             or
             six
             Citizens
             meet
             on
             the
             publick
             Place
             ,
             to
             open
             a
             Score
             of
             'em
             ,
             and
             those
             who
             have
             the
             fortune
             to
             meet
             with
             none
             but
             white
             ones
             ,
             are
             oblig'd
             to
             pay
             for
             the
             rest
             ;
             which
             they
             call
             playing
             at
             Pastaiques
             .
          
           
             Malta
             is
             hotter
             than
             Rome
             ,
             or
             any
             other
             place
             in
             Europe
             ;
             and
             the
             stifling
             Heat
             of
             the
             Climate
             is
             so
             much
             the
             more
             insupportable
             ,
             because
             there
             are
             no
             cool
             Breezes
             to
             temper
             it
             ;
             and
             the
             Brow
             of
             the
             Hill
             is
             expos'd
             directly
             to
             the
             South
             .
             The
             Peasants
             are
             as
             black
             as
             Egyptians
             ;
             for
             they
             take
             no
             care
             to
             preserve
             themselves
             from
             the
             Sun
             ;
             and
             the
             most
             scorching
             Heat
             is
             not
             able
             to
             drive
             'em
             into
             their
             Houses
             ,
             or
             even
             make
             'em
             leave
             off
             working
             .
             This
             is
             an
             evident
             Demonstration
             of
             the
             Power
             of
             Nature
             in
             performing
             things
             that
             seem
             to
             be
             impossible
             :
             For
             there
             are
             few
             things
             which
             a
             Man
             may
             not
             suffer
             if
             he
             be
             accustom'd
             to
             'em
             from
             his
             Infancy
             ,
             as
             the
             Maltese
             are
             in
             this
             case
             ,
             who
             inure
             the
             Bodies
             of
             their
             Children
             to
             Heat
             ,
             by
             making
             'em
             go
             stark
             naked
             ,
             without
             Shirt
             ,
             Drawers
             ,
             or
             Cap
             ,
             as
             soon
             as
             they
             are
             taken
             from
             their
             Mother
             s
             Breast
             ,
             to
             the
             Age
             of
             Ten
             Years
             ;
             so
             that
             their
             Skin
             grows
             as
             hard
             as
             Leather
             .
             You
             will
             easily
             perceive
             that
             I
             speak
             of
             the
             Peasants
             ,
             and
             Meaner
             sort
             of
             the
             Inhabitants
             ;
             for
             all
             the
             rest
             cloath
             their
             Children
             as
             they
             do
             in
             other
             Countries
             :
             Only
             to
             preserve
             themselves
             from
             the
             Heat
             ,
             they
             never
             go
             abroad
             during
             the
             hottest
             part
             of
             the
             Day
             ;
             and
             besides
             ,
             they
             cloath
             themselves
             very
             slightly
             ,
             and
             sleep
             from
             Noon
             till
             four
             a-clock
             .
             The
             richer
             
             sort
             make
             use
             of
             a
             kind
             of
             Fans
             ,
             which
             are
             very
             much
             in
             fashion
             among
             Persons
             of
             Quality
             in
             Italy
             ,
             I
             mean
             certain
             Machines
             hung
             at
             the
             Ceiling
             ,
             about
             three
             Foot
             broad
             and
             usually
             made
             of
             some
             Silk
             Stuff
             ,
             stretch●d
             upon
             small
             and
             very
             thin
             Laths
             ,
             surrounded
             with
             Ostrich-Feathers
             .
             There
             is
             also
             a
             small
             silken
             Cord
             fasten'd
             to
             it
             ,
             and
             drawn
             thro'
             a
             Hole
             into
             the
             Anti-chamber
             ,
             where
             a
             Servant
             is
             plac'd
             to
             keep
             the
             Machine
             playing
             by
             pulling
             the
             Cord.
             These
             Fans
             are
             usually
             hung
             over
             a
             Couch
             ,
             or
             Bed
             of
             Repose
             ,
             where
             a
             Man
             may
             lie
             and
             enjoy
             the
             Pleasure
             of
             Fanning
             as
             long
             as
             he
             pleases
             :
             And
             sometimes
             one
             of
             'em
             is
             plac'd
             on
             the
             Table
             ,
             both
             for
             Coolness
             ,
             and
             to
             drive
             away
             the
             Flies
             .
             If
             you
             consider
             also
             the
             
               Sorbet
               ,
               Straw-berries
               ,
               Raspherries
            
             ,
             and
             all
             the
             
               cooling
               Waters
            
             us'd
             in
             Italy
             ,
             you
             will
             not
             blame
             me
             for
             affirming
             that
             a
             Rich
             Man
             may
             live
             comfortably
             in
             any
             Climate
             ,
             and
             easily
             avoid
             all
             the
             Inconveniencies
             of
             excessive
             Heat
             or
             Cold.
             I
             need
             not
             go
             farther
             than
             Malta
             for
             a
             convincing
             Proof
             of
             this
             Assertion
             ;
             since
             the
             violent
             Heat
             that
             reigns
             here
             serves
             only
             to
             encrease
             the
             Pleasure
             of
             being
             fann'd
             ,
             and
             of
             drinking
             cold
             Liquors
             ,
             with
             which
             this
             Island
             is
             always
             furnish
             d
             ,
             tho'
             the
             Winter
             produces
             neither
             Snow
             nor
             Ice
             :
             For
             the
             
               Great
               Master
            
             takes
             care
             to
             supply
             that
             defect
             ,
             by
             letting
             out
             the
             Sale
             of
             these
             Commodities
             by
             way
             of
             Farm
             ,
             to
             a
             Man
             ,
             who
             sends
             every
             Winter
             to
             Sicily
             for
             a
             sufficient
             quantity
             to
             fill
             the
             Ice-Houses
             ,
             and
             is
             oblig
             d
             to
             furnish
             the
             Island
             all
             the
             Summer
             ,
             under
             pain
             of
             paying
             a
             Fine
             of
             Ten
             Crowns
             a
             Day
             ,
             in
             case
             of
             failure
             .
          
           
             The
             Island
             of
             Malta
             is
             very
             populous
             ,
             and
             reckon'd
             to
             contain
             15000
             Men
             ,
             who
             are
             all
             divided
             into
             Companies
             .
             They
             are
             oblig'd
             to
             wear
             Swords
             ,
             but
             forbidden
             to
             draw
             'em
             under
             such
             rigorous
             
             Penalties
             ,
             that
             the
             natural
             Malice
             of
             the
             Inhabitants
             is
             very
             effectually
             curb●d
             by
             their
             Fear
             of
             Punishment
             :
             Yet
             they
             sometimes
             venture
             to
             execute
             their
             Fury
             with
             a
             little
             Poniard
             or
             Stiletto
             ,
             after
             the
             Italian
             fashion
             .
             I
             cannot
             better
             express
             the
             barbarity
             of
             their
             Temper
             and
             Inclinations
             ,
             than
             by
             telling
             you
             ,
             that
             their
             Humour
             is
             not
             different
             from
             that
             of
             the
             Sicilians
             ,
             that
             ,
             like
             them
             ,
             they
             are
             Treacherous
             and
             Bloody
             ,
             Jealous
             even
             to
             Madness
             ,
             and
             capable
             of
             attempting
             the
             most
             horrid
             Villanies
             when
             they
             are
             animated
             by
             that
             cruel
             Passion
             .
             To
             convince
             you
             of
             the
             Justness
             of
             this
             Character
             ,
             't
             will
             be
             sufficient
             to
             relate
             two
             Accidents
             that
             happen'd
             very
             lately
             ;
             for
             the
             two
             Principle
             Actors
             are
             still
             alive
             ,
             and
             remain
             in
             the
             Churches
             of
             St.
             Lewis
             and
             St.
             John
             ,
             whither
             they
             f●ed
             ,
             to
             avoid
             the
             just
             Punishment
             of
             their
             Crimes
             .
          
           
             The
             first
             had
             a
             young
             ,
             handsom
             ,
             and
             loving
             Wife
             ,
             yet
             (
             according
             to
             the
             Custom
             of
             all
             his
             Countrymen
             ,
             both
             Batchelors
             and
             marry'd
             Men
             ,
             )
             he
             kept
             a
             Whore
             ,
             who
             possess'd
             his
             Heart
             and
             Soul
             ,
             and
             was
             so
             absolutely
             the
             Mistress
             of
             his
             Affection
             ,
             that
             without
             regarding
             his
             Duty
             to
             his
             Wife
             ,
             he
             lay
             every
             Night
             at
             her
             House
             .
             This
             malicious
             Woman
             made
             use
             of
             the
             Power
             she
             had
             over
             him
             to
             irritate
             him
             against
             his
             injur'd
             Wife
             ,
             telling
             him
             ,
             that
             he
             had
             reason
             to
             suspect
             her
             Vertue
             ,
             since
             he
             gave
             her
             so
             many
             inviting
             Opportunities
             of
             repaying
             him
             in
             his
             own
             Coin
             ;
             and
             his
             guilty
             Conscience
             prompting
             him
             to
             conclude
             that
             the
             might
             be
             as
             vicious
             as
             himself
             ,
             he
             resolv'd
             to
             bring
             her
             along
             with
             him
             every
             Night
             ,
             and
             made
             her
             lie
             in
             the
             same
             Bed
             with
             him
             and
             his
             Concubine
             ,
             since
             there
             was
             not
             another
             in
             the
             Lodging
             .
             Judge
             ,
             Sir
             ,
             with
             what
             Grief
             and
             Horrour
             this
             poor
             Creature
             cou'd
             behold
             her
             
               due
               Benevolence
            
             squander'd
             away
             upon
             an
             impudent
             Doxey
             in
             her
             presence
             ;
             
             and
             whether
             ever
             any
             Woman
             was
             so
             barbarously
             treated
             .
             'T
             is
             certainly
             the
             highest
             and
             most
             cruel
             Indignity
             that
             cou'd
             be
             put
             upon
             a
             Wife
             ;
             and
             there
             is
             no
             Crime
             so
             inhumane
             which
             such
             a
             Husband
             wou'd
             not
             dare
             to
             commit
             .
             Thus
             she
             liv'd
             for
             above
             a
             Year
             ,
             till
             at
             last
             her
             Patience
             being
             intirely
             exhausted
             ,
             she
             was
             not
             able
             any
             longer
             to
             bear
             the
             insupportable
             Torment
             of
             being
             made
             the
             Spectatour
             of
             her
             own
             Shame
             and
             Misery
             ;
             and
             therefore
             advis'd
             her
             Husband
             ,
             since
             he
             cou'd
             not
             overcome
             his
             Passion
             ,
             to
             bring
             the
             Cu●t●san
             home
             to
             his
             House
             ,
             where
             he
             might
             enjoy
             his
             Pleasure
             with
             more
             Conveniency
             and
             less
             Charge
             .
             This
             Advice
             was
             so
             agreeable
             to
             his
             Humour
             ,
             that
             he
             resolv'd
             once
             in
             his
             Life
             to
             comply
             with
             her
             Desires
             :
             But
             she
             had
             little
             reason
             to
             be
             satisfy'd
             with
             the
             Success
             of
             her
             Proposal
             ,
             for
             she
             liv'd
             in
             a
             perpetual
             Hell
             with
             her
             pityless
             Tormentour
             ,
             and
             his
             insolent
             Strumpet
             .
             But
             instead
             of
             making
             a
             tedious
             Relation
             of
             all
             the
             Affronts
             they
             put
             upon
             her
             ,
             I
             shall
             only
             acquaint
             you
             with
             the
             Tragical
             Conclusion
             of
             the
             Story
             .
             He
             had
             a
             Son
             ,
             about
             nine
             Years
             old
             ,
             who
             having
             seen
             his
             Mother
             at
             Church
             speaking
             to
             one
             of
             her
             Brothers
             ,
             who
             was
             newly
             come
             from
             Italy
             ,
             and
             whom
             the
             Boy
             did
             not
             know
             ,
             went
             immediately
             to
             tell
             his
             Father
             ,
             that
             his
             Mother
             was
             discoursing
             with
             a
             Stranger
             :
             And
             that
             inhumane
             Villain
             ,
             without
             enquiring
             farther
             into
             the
             Matter
             ,
             or
             so
             much
             as
             accusing
             her
             of
             her
             Crime
             ,
             stabb'd
             her
             with
             his
             Poniard
             as
             soon
             as
             she
             came
             home
             .
          
           
             The
             other
             ,
             who
             retir'd
             to
             the
             Church
             of
             S.
             Lewis
             ,
             was
             as
             unmerciful
             to
             his
             Whore
             as
             the
             former
             was
             to
             his
             Wife
             .
             He
             knew
             that
             she
             intended
             to
             Marry
             ,
             and
             had
             often
             with
             horrible
             Threatnings
             forbidden
             her
             to
             prosecute
             that
             Design
             .
             But
             she
             was
             so
             weary
             of
             her
             infamous
             way
             of
             Living
             ,
             that
             she
             resolv'd
             ,
             notwithstanding
             his
             repeated
             Menaces
             ,
             
             to
             provide
             herself
             a
             Husband
             ,
             and
             was
             even
             actually
             engag●d
             with
             a
             certain
             Tradesman
             .
             Her
             Gallant
             hearing
             of
             this
             new
             Intrigue
             ,
             and
             having
             seen
             her
             two
             or
             three
             times
             talking
             with
             the
             young
             Man's
             Sister
             ,
             ran
             to
             her
             House
             in
             a
             Transport
             of
             Fury
             ,
             and
             immediately
             told
             her
             ,
             that
             
               he
               was
               come
               to
               kill
               her
               .
            
             She
             being
             ignorant
             of
             the
             cause
             of
             his
             Rage
             ,
             and
             imagining
             that
             he
             only
             intended
             to
             laugh
             at
             her
             Fear
             ,
             threw
             her
             Arms
             about
             his
             Neck
             ,
             and
             embracing
             him
             ,
             
               And
               why
               ,
               my
               Heart
            
             ,
             said
             she
             ,
             
               wou'dst
               thou
               kill
               me
               ?
               Because
               thou
               art
               an
               impudent
               Where
               ,
            
             reply'd
             he
             ,
             
               and
               wou'dst
               Marry
               in
               spite
               of
               me
               ;
               but
               I
               sh●ll
               quickly
               cure
               thy
               Longing
               :
            
             Immediately
             he
             stabb'd
             her
             in
             the
             Breast
             with
             his
             Poniard
             ,
             and
             repeated
             the
             Blow
             four
             times
             ,
             till
             he
             laid
             her
             dead
             upon
             the
             Spot
             .
             The
             Barbarity
             of
             these
             Murderers
             is
             so
             prodigiously
             inhumane
             ,
             that
             these
             two
             Instances
             will
             give
             you
             a
             livelier
             Idea
             of
             the
             Humour
             of
             this
             People
             ,
             than
             the
             most
             pathetic
             Description
             I
             cou●d
             make
             of
             it
             .
          
           
             The
             Number
             of
             the
             Curtesans
             is
             extremely
             great
             ;
             their
             Trade
             is
             not
             at
             all
             reputed
             scandalous
             ;
             and
             when
             they
             have
             earn'd
             a
             little
             Money
             ,
             they
             may
             Marry
             ,
             and
             are
             esteem'd
             as
             honest
             Women
             as
             if
             they
             had
             kept
             their
             Maidenhead
             for
             their
             Husbands
             .
             No
             Person
             whatsoever
             dares
             offer
             'em
             the
             least
             indignity
             ;
             for
             they
             are
             look'd
             upon
             as
             Publick
             Persons
             that
             ought
             to
             be
             Sacred
             ;
             and
             there
             are
             even
             some
             Ladies
             of
             Honour
             who
             disdain
             not
             their
             Acquaintance
             and
             Society
             ;
             so
             that
             't
             is
             not
             an
             easie
             Task
             to
             distinguish
             those
             Prostitutes
             from
             Vertueus
             Women
             .
             The
             Curtesans
             of
             Rome
             and
             Mal●●
             are
             beholding
             to
             the
             same
             Cause
             for
             the
             Advantageous
             Privileges
             they
             enjoy
             :
             There
             the
             Priests
             govern
             ,
             and
             here
             the
             Authority
             is
             lodg'd
             in
             the
             Knights
             .
             Both
             of
             'em
             have
             sworn
             Chastity
             ,
             and
             neither
             of
             'em
             are
             able
             to
             keep
             their
             Vows
             .
             〈◊〉
             cannot
             forbear
             taking
             notice
             of
             a
             pretty
             odd
             
             Custom
             in
             this
             Place
             ,
             for
             the
             conveniency
             of
             Strangers
             ,
             who
             having
             no
             Acquaintance
             ,
             and
             for
             the
             most
             part
             staying
             but
             two
             or
             three
             Days
             in
             the
             Island
             ,
             might
             be
             sometimes
             oblig'd
             to
             leave
             it
             without
             tasting
             its
             most
             delicious
             Fruit
             :
             For
             't
             is
             not
             the
             Fashion
             here
             to
             visit
             Strangers
             in
             their
             Ships
             ,
             as
             at
             
               Leghorn
               .
               Malta
            
             is
             a
             Land
             of
             Liberty
             ,
             where
             Pleasure
             is
             not
             forc'd
             upon
             any
             Man
             :
             But
             they
             who
             have
             a
             mind
             to
             divert
             themselves
             ,
             may
             easily
             find
             a
             Play-fellow
             by
             walking
             about
             the
             Streets
             with
             a
             Sequin
             in
             their
             Hand
             ,
             holding
             it
             so
             that
             it
             may
             be
             seen
             ;
             for
             this
             is
             a
             never-failing
             Signal
             ,
             which
             will
             procure
             'em
             twenty
             Invitations
             in
             a
             Moment
             .
          
           
             The
             Habit
             of
             the
             Women
             in
             this
             Place
             is
             as
             Melancholic
             and
             Dismal
             when
             they
             go
             abroad
             ,
             as
             't
             is
             Wanton
             and
             Lascivious
             when
             they
             are
             at
             home
             .
             In
             the
             Streets
             you
             see
             nothing
             but
             a
             long
             black
             Veil
             instead
             of
             a
             Woman
             ,
             which
             covers
             'em
             so
             intirely
             from
             Head
             to
             Foot
             ,
             that
             such
             a
             sight
             wou'd
             cost
             a
             
               Low
               Briton
            
             at
             least
             twenty
             
               Signs
               of
               the
               Cross
            
             :
             for
             the
             Women
             in
             this
             City
             look
             just
             like
             so
             many
             Ghosts
             wrapt
             in
             Shrowds
             ,
             stalking
             about
             the
             Streets
             .
             But
             if
             they
             are
             Ghosts
             in
             the
             Street
             ,
             they
             are
             Angels
             at
             home
             ;
             for
             tho'
             the
             Peasants
             are
             tawny
             ,
             the
             Women
             who
             live
             in
             the
             City
             have
             the
             fairest
             Complexions
             in
             the
             World.
             I
             can
             only
             give
             you
             an
             Account
             of
             their
             Summer
             Dress
             ,
             since
             I
             never
             had
             occasion
             to
             see
             'em
             in
             the
             Winter
             .
             They
             wear
             a
             fine
             White
             Smock
             ,
             plaited
             at
             the
             Neck
             like
             a
             Man's
             Shirt
             ;
             but
             the
             Opening
             is
             so
             wide
             ,
             that
             it
             leaves
             their
             Shoulders
             and
             Breasts
             intirely
             expos'd
             to
             the
             View
             of
             the
             ravish'd
             Beholder
             :
             the
             Sleeves
             are
             very
             large
             ,
             and
             tuck'd
             up
             to
             the
             Neck-band
             of
             the
             Smock
             to
             which
             they
             are
             fasten'd
             with
             a
             Pin
             ,
             so
             that
             one
             may
             see
             their
             whole
             Arms.
             This
             Smock
             is
             almost
             their
             intire
             Habit
             ,
             for
             they
             wear
             nothing
             above
             it
             but
             a
             very
             little
             Pair
             of
             Boddice
             about
             their
             Waste
             under
             
             their
             Breasts
             ,
             which
             being
             not
             above
             a
             Span
             long
             ,
             serves
             only
             to
             set
             off
             the
             Fineness
             of
             their
             Shape
             ,
             and
             rather
             exposes
             than
             conceals
             those
             alluring
             Charms
             that
             strike
             the
             Eyes
             and
             Hearts
             of
             the
             Spectator
             with
             a
             sweet
             but
             irresistible
             Violence
             .
             The
             Mens
             Habit
             is
             not
             different
             from
             ours
             ,
             at
             least
             they
             endeavour
             as
             much
             as
             they
             can
             ,
             to
             imitate
             it
             .
          
           
             Almost
             all
             the
             Maltese
             are
             serv'd
             by
             Slaves
             ,
             who
             are
             suffer'd
             to
             walk
             freely
             about
             the
             Streets
             all
             day
             ,
             as
             well
             as
             those
             who
             belong
             to
             the
             Order
             ;
             but
             they
             are
             all
             oblig'd
             to
             retire
             in
             the
             Evening
             to
             the
             publick
             Baths
             ,
             as
             at
             Leghorn
             ,
             and
             if
             any
             of
             'em
             shou'd
             fail
             to
             come
             at
             the
             time
             appointed
             ,
             he
             wou'd
             be
             put
             to
             death
             as
             a
             Fugitive
             .
             The
             Galley-Slaves
             are
             the
             most
             miserable
             Wretches
             in
             the
             World
             ;
             yet
             there
             are
             some
             Persons
             here
             who
             have
             so
             little
             regard
             to
             their
             own
             Happiness
             ,
             as
             to
             sell
             themselves
             for
             a
             hundred
             Crowns
             to
             the
             Order
             :
             they
             continue
             Slaves
             during
             their
             whole
             Life
             without
             any
             Pay
             ,
             rowing
             naked
             and
             chain'd
             as
             the
             rest
             ,
             without
             any
             other
             Mark
             of
             Distinction
             than
             the
             Title
             of
             
               Bonne
               Vogue
            
             ,
             whereas
             the
             Turks
             are
             call'd
             Slaves
             .
             I
             know
             there
             are
             also
             some
             of
             these
             voluntary
             Slaves
             at
             Venice
             ,
             where
             they
             are
             call'd
             Gallioti
             ,
             and
             even
             the
             Republick
             finds
             less
             Difficulty
             in
             levying
             'em
             than
             in
             raising
             Soldiers
             :
             but
             they
             are
             only
             engag'd
             to
             serve
             three
             Years
             on
             the
             Galleys
             ,
             whereas
             the
             
               Bonne
               Vogue
            
             at
             Malta
             are
             perpetual
             Slaves
             ,
             without
             the
             least
             hope
             of
             recovering
             their
             Liberty
             .
          
           
             There
             are
             only
             seven
             Galleys
             belonging
             to
             the
             Order
             ,
             which
             are
             sent
             every
             Year
             under
             the
             Command
             of
             a
             General
             to
             assist
             the
             Venetians
             .
             The
             Government
             is
             constantly
             employ'd
             about
             raising
             new
             Funds
             ,
             without
             which
             they
             cannot
             encrease
             the
             Number
             of
             their
             Galleys
             .
          
           
             There
             are
             Three
             Languages
             spoken
             in
             the
             City
             ;
             the
             
               French
               ,
               Spanish
            
             ,
             and
             Italian
             .
             The
             last
             of
             these
             is
             authoriz'd
             by
             the
             Government
             ,
             and
             us'd
             in
             publick
             
             Writings
             .
             The
             Peasants
             in
             the
             Country
             speak
             a
             corrupt
             Dialect
             of
             the
             Arabic
             :
             and
             't
             wou'd
             not
             be
             an
             easie
             Task
             to
             make
             'em
             leave
             it
             .
          
           
             The
             
               Holy
               Office
               of
               the
               Inquisition
            
             ,
             that
             dreadful
             Tribunal
             ,
             famous
             for
             its
             Injustice
             and
             Cruelty
             ,
             reigns
             more
             Tyrannically
             here
             than
             at
             Rome
             it self
             .
             I
             have
             heard
             a
             hundred
             remarkable
             Stories
             of
             its
             Barbarity
             ;
             but
             I
             'm
             too
             much
             your
             Friend
             to
             disturb
             the
             Tranquillity
             of
             your
             Mind
             with
             such
             dismal
             Relations
             .
             And
             therefore
             instead
             of
             entring
             on
             so
             Melancholic
             a
             Subject
             ,
             I
             shall
             only
             observe
             that
             Confessors
             ,
             who
             in
             any
             other
             Country
             would
             be
             burnt
             if
             they
             should
             divulge
             the
             Secrets
             with
             which
             they
             are
             intrusted
             ,
             are
             oblig'd
             here
             to
             reveal
             'em
             ,
             as
             often
             as
             the
             Inquisition
             is
             concern'd
             in
             the
             Discovery
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             they
             do
             not
             own
             this
             Maxim
             ,
             for
             fear
             of
             spoiling
             their
             Trade
             ;
             but
             the
             Truth
             of
             it
             is
             too
             well
             known
             to
             be
             call'd
             in
             question
             :
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             ,
             to
             prevent
             Suspicion
             ,
             they
             are
             sometimes
             silent
             for
             a
             Year
             or
             two
             ,
             after
             which
             the
             Inquisitor
             sends
             for
             the
             Party
             accus'd
             ,
             and
             asks
             him
             whether
             he
             knows
             the
             reason
             why
             he
             is
             brought
             before
             him
             .
             Then
             must
             the
             poor
             Wretch
             call
             to
             mind
             all
             that
             ever
             he
             said
             ;
             and
             if
             he
             has
             either
             forgot
             his
             Fault
             ,
             or
             refuses
             to
             own
             it
             ,
             confiding
             in
             the
             Secrecy
             and
             Fidelity
             of
             his
             Confessour
             ,
             whom
             he
             knows
             to
             be
             his
             only
             Confident
             ,
             he
             's
             a
             dead
             Man
             ,
             and
             must
             not
             entertain
             the
             least
             hope
             of
             Mercy
             :
             For
             they
             strangle
             him
             in
             Prison
             ,
             and
             some
             time
             after
             tell
             his
             Relations
             that
             they
             may
             forbear
             sending
             him
             Provisions
             .
             Happy
             are
             they
             who
             are
             not
             subject
             to
             this
             Yoke
             !
          
           
             I
             saw
             a
             Church
             ,
             t'other
             day
             ,
             in
             which
             there
             is
             a
             little
             Grotto
             ,
             where
             't
             is
             said
             S.
             Paul
             liv'd
             three
             Months
             :
             But
             't
             is
             so
             small
             ,
             and
             contriv'd
             in
             such
             a
             manner
             ,
             that
             I
             'm
             much
             enclin'd
             to
             suspect
             the
             Truth
             of
             this
             Tradition
             .
             However
             ,
             every
             one
             that
             comes
             ,
             carries
             away
             a
             piece
             of
             it
             ,
             as
             a
             Preservative
             
             against
             the
             biting
             of
             Serpents
             :
             And
             they
             pretend
             that
             by
             a
             perpetual
             Miracle
             ,
             the
             Rock
             is
             never
             diminish'd
             .
             I
             will
             not
             dispute
             the
             Truth
             of
             the
             Matter
             of
             Fact
             ,
             tho'
             I
             can
             assure
             you
             that
             there
             are
             visible
             Gaps
             or
             Notches
             in
             the
             Rock
             ,
             and
             that
             they
             still
             continue
             to
             break
             off
             Pieces
             of
             it
             :
             But
             supposing
             it
             to
             be
             as
             big
             as
             ever
             ,
             I
             see
             no
             reason
             why
             we
             shou'd
             have
             recourse
             to
             a
             Miracle
             on
             this
             Occasion
             ,
             since
             't
             is
             generally
             acknowledg'd
             ,
             that
             there
             are
             some
             Rocks
             which
             grow
             naturally
             till
             they
             be
             separated
             from
             their
             Roots
             :
             And
             our
             Mariners
             ,
             who
             are
             no
             very
             able
             Philosophers
             ,
             show'd
             me
             one
             in
             our
             Voyage
             hither
             ,
             which
             is
             commonly
             call'd
             the
             Brothers
             ;
             and
             why
             may
             not
             S.
             
               Paul●s
               Grotto
            
             be
             of
             the
             same
             Nature
             .
             But
             this
             is
             not
             the
             only
             Miracle
             in
             Malta
             :
             They
             tell
             us
             ,
             that
             there
             are
             no
             Serpents
             in
             the
             Island
             ,
             and
             wou'd
             have
             us
             believe
             that
             this
             Privilege
             was
             the
             Effect
             of
             a
             Viper's
             biting
             the
             same
             Apostle
             ,
             as
             you
             may
             read
             in
             the
             
               Acts
               of
               the
               Apostles
            
             .
             For
             my
             part
             ,
             I
             must
             confess
             ,
             I
             'm
             as
             little
             satisfy'd
             with
             this
             Sotry
             as
             with
             the
             other
             ;
             for
             some
             Persons
             assure
             me
             that
             there
             are
             Serpents
             in
             Malta
             :
             But
             supposing
             there
             were
             none
             ,
             I
             had
             occasion
             to
             mention
             another
             Island
             in
             my
             last
             ,
             which
             may
             boast
             of
             the
             same
             Advantage
             ;
             and
             why
             shou'd
             the
             Miracle
             be
             greater
             here
             than
             at
             Guernsey
             ,
             where
             t
             is
             certain
             there
             is
             neither
             
               Toad
               ,
               Scorpion
            
             ,
             nor
             any
             other
             Venomous
             Creature
             :
             And
             ,
             which
             adds
             to
             the
             Wonder
             ,
             I
             know
             that
             the
             Governour
             ,
             who
             is
             a
             Curious
             Person
             ,
             having
             order'd
             some
             of
             those
             Animals
             to
             be
             brought
             to
             the
             Island
             ,
             they
             dy●d
             immediately
             .
             I
             'm
             confident
             if
             the
             Roman-Catholicks
             were
             Masters
             of
             that
             Island
             ,
             they
             wou●d
             make
             some
             Saint
             the
             Author
             of
             this
             Privilege
             ,
             which
             might
             perhaps
             be
             pretended
             with
             less
             improbability
             ,
             to
             be
             the
             effect
             of
             a
             supernatural
             Cause
             ,
             than
             at
             Malta
             ,
             since
             the
             Island
             of
             Jersey
             ,
             which
             is
             but
             
             seven
             Leagues
             distant
             from
             Guernsey
             ,
             is
             so
             extremely
             pester'd
             with
             Serpents
             and
             Toads
             ,
             that
             the
             Houses
             are
             full
             of
             'em
             ,
             and
             none
             of
             the
             Peasants
             dare
             lie
             upon
             the
             Ground
             .
             This
             ,
             I
             doubt
             not
             will
             seem
             strange
             to
             you
             ;
             but
             you
             will
             be
             stil●
             more
             surpriz'd
             when
             I
             have
             told
             you
             that
             it
             
               rains
               Toads
            
             in
             this
             Island
             :
             If
             you
             suspect
             the
             Truth
             of
             this
             odd
             Phaenomenon
             ,
             you
             may
             receive
             a
             Confirmation
             of
             it
             from
             any
             Man
             that
             has
             been
             upon
             the
             Place
             .
          
           
             Nature
             is
             so
             Mysterious
             and
             Unsearchable
             in
             her
             Operations
             ,
             and
             Men
             are
             generally
             so
             apt
             to
             admire
             what
             they
             cannot
             comprehend
             ,
             that
             their
             Inclination
             to
             ascribe
             surprizing
             Events
             to
             supernatural
             Causes
             ,
             may
             be
             justly
             reckon'd
             an
             effect
             of
             their
             Ignorance
             .
             I
             'm
             so
             fully
             persuaded
             of
             this
             Truth
             ,
             that
             I
             seldom
             or
             never
             take
             Notice
             of
             those
             Miracles
             that
             make
             so
             great
             a
             Noise
             in
             the
             Countreys
             thro'
             which
             I
             have
             occasion
             to
             pass
             :
             And
             besides
             ,
             since
             I
             have
             reason
             to
             believe
             that
             such
             Stories
             wou'd
             not
             contribute
             much
             to
             your
             Diversion
             :
             I
             'm
             resolv'd
             to
             trouble
             you
             with
             none
             of
             'em
             ,
             unless
             they
             be
             either
             very
             extraordinary
             ,
             or
             extremely
             ridiculous
             .
          
           
             I
             hope
             my
             next
             Letter
             shall
             be
             dated
             from
             Constantinople
             ,
             for
             we
             intend
             to
             set
             sail
             to
             Morrow
             .
          
           
             I
             am
             ,
             
               SIR
               ,
            
             
               Your
               &c.
               
            
             
               Malta
               ,
               
                 June
                 1690.
                 
              
            
          
        
         
           
           
             LETTER
             XII
             .
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
          
           
             WE
             sail'd
             from
             
               Malta
               ,
               June
               ...
            
             ,
             and
             leaving
             Sicily
             on
             our
             Left-hand
             ,
             enter'd
             the
             Archipelago
             .
             After
             a
             Voyage
             of
             fifteen
             Days
             ,
             without
             any
             remarkable
             Disturbance
             ,
             we
             arriv'd
             at
             the
             Height
             of
             Troy
             ,
             and
             our
             Vessel
             standing
             in
             to
             Tenedos
             ,
             both
             by
             reason
             of
             the
             contrary
             Wind
             ,
             and
             to
             take
             in
             some
             fresh
             Provisions
             ,
             I
             took
             this
             Occasion
             to
             visit
             the
             Ruines
             of
             that
             famous
             City
             ,
             which
             are
             at
             present
             so
             obscure
             and
             inconsiderable
             ,
             that
             unless
             a
             Man's
             Mind
             were
             full
             of
             the
             Idea
             of
             it
             ,
             he
             might
             view
             it
             all
             over
             without
             perceiving
             the
             least
             reason
             to
             conclude
             that
             ever
             any
             Town
             stood
             in
             that
             place
             .
             Yet
             by
             a
             Curious
             Search
             ,
             an
             inquisitive
             Traveller
             may
             find
             enough
             to
             convince
             him
             ,
             that
             't
             was
             formerly
             of
             a
             prodigious
             Extent
             :
             And
             I
             observ'd
             some
             Marks
             of
             it
             in
             four
             or
             five
             different
             Places
             ,
             two
             of
             which
             were
             about
             twenty
             Miles
             distant
             .
             The
             next
             Day
             we
             set
             sail
             with
             a
             favourable
             Wind
             ,
             and
             enter'd
             the
             Canal
             of
             Constantinople
             ,
             otherwise
             call'd
             the
             Hellespont
             ,
             at
             the
             Mouth
             of
             which
             we
             found
             two
             Castles
             ,
             one
             in
             Europe
             ,
             and
             the
             other
             in
             Asia
             ,
             separated
             by
             the
             Canal
             or
             Strait
             ,
             which
             is
             about
             a
             Mile
             and
             a
             half
             broad
             in
             this
             Place
             ,
             and
             retains
             the
             same
             breadth
             almost
             throughout
             .
             The
             European
             Castle
             is
             a
             Mass
             compos'd
             of
             three
             great
             Towers
             ,
             surrounded
             with
             a
             weak
             and
             inconsiderable
             Wall
             ,
             after
             the
             manner
             of
             a
             False-bray
             ,
             at
             the
             Foot
             of
             which
             there
             are
             twenty
             Pieces
             of
             Cannon
             level
             with
             the
             Water
             .
             'T
             is
             said
             that
             they
             carry
             a
             fifty
             Pound
             Ball
             of
             Stone
             ;
             and
             indeed
             their
             Mouths
             are
             so
             wide
             ,
             that
             the
             
             very
             sight
             of
             'em
             is
             terrible
             :
             Nevertheless
             ,
             I
             'm
             apt
             to
             believe
             that
             they
             are
             not
             fit
             for
             Service
             ,
             and
             even
             that
             they
             cou'd
             not
             bear
             above
             one
             discharge
             ,
             both
             by
             reason
             of
             their
             thinness
             ,
             and
             because
             they
             are
             not
             mounted
             on
             Carriages
             .
             There
             is
             a
             Mountain
             behind
             the
             Castle
             that
             overlooks
             and
             commands
             it
             .
          
           
             The
             other
             Castle
             ,
             which
             is
             seated
             upon
             the
             Asian
             Shore
             ,
             is
             of
             a
             Square
             Figure
             ,
             according
             to
             the
             Ancient
             manner
             of
             Building
             ,
             defended
             only
             with
             some
             small
             Towers
             join'd
             to
             the
             Wall
             ;
             and
             without
             there
             is
             a
             Battery
             of
             Cannons
             behind
             a
             Wall
             ,
             as
             in
             the
             other
             .
             The
             Captain
             was
             oblig'd
             to
             stop
             at
             this
             place
             ,
             and
             one
             of
             the
             Officers
             of
             the
             Custom-House
             came
             on
             board
             our
             Ship
             ,
             and
             accompany'd
             us
             to
             Constantinople
             .
             Having
             pass'd
             the
             Canal
             ,
             we
             enter'd
             into
             the
             Sea
             formerly
             call'd
             the
             Propontis
             ,
             and
             at
             present
             Marmora
             ,
             from
             the
             Name
             of
             an
             Island
             which
             contains
             a
             great
             quantity
             of
             very
             fine
             Marble
             .
             Twenty
             Miles
             from
             thence
             we
             discover'd
             Constantinople
             ,
             and
             had
             the
             pleasure
             of
             viewing
             the
             finest
             Landskip
             that
             ever
             I
             beheld
             ;
             for
             it
             strikes
             all
             those
             who
             look
             upon
             it
             with
             Wonder
             and
             Astonishment
             .
             Imagine
             you
             see
             a
             great
             City
             stretch'd
             along
             the
             Shore
             for
             above
             six
             Miles
             ,
             and
             so
             situated
             sloping
             towards
             the
             Sea
             ,
             that
             you
             perceive
             at
             once
             an
             infinite
             Number
             of
             Mosquees
             ,
             adorn'd
             with
             little
             Domes
             cover'd
             with
             Lead
             ,
             and
             high
             Turrets
             ,
             which
             altogether
             make
             one
             of
             the
             most
             lovely
             Prospects
             in
             the
             World
             :
             Whilst
             the
             Eye
             is
             busy'd
             in
             contemplating
             this
             charming
             Variety
             of
             Objects
             ,
             't
             is
             agreeably
             diverted
             with
             the
             sight
             of
             the
             
               Castle
               of
               the
               Seven
               Towers
            
             ,
             and
             of
             the
             Seraglio
             ,
             which
             are
             particularly
             remarkable
             not
             only
             for
             their
             largeness
             ,
             but
             for
             a
             vast
             Number
             of
             gilt
             Globes
             and
             Spires
             ,
             resembling
             little
             Steeples
             .
             The
             nearer
             I
             approach'd
             ,
             I
             still
             discover'd
             new
             Ornaments
             ;
             and
             after
             I
             had
             consider●d
             
             at
             leisure
             so
             many
             Wonders
             ,
             I
             was
             at
             last
             agreeably
             surpriz'd
             with
             the
             Beauty
             of
             the
             Port
             :
             'T
             is
             three
             Miles
             long
             ,
             and
             almost
             one
             broad
             ,
             clean
             and
             deep
             throughout
             ,
             even
             to
             the
             Shoar
             ,
             the
             largest
             Ships
             coming
             up
             close
             to
             the
             Land
             ,
             so
             that
             one
             may
             go
             on
             board
             without
             making
             use
             of
             a
             Boat.
             'T
             is
             strange
             that
             the
             Harbour
             is
             never
             fill'd
             up
             ,
             especially
             near
             the
             Shore
             ,
             since
             all
             the
             Filth
             of
             the
             City
             is
             cast
             into
             it
             ,
             without
             the
             Advantage
             of
             a
             Tide
             to
             carry
             it
             away
             .
             At
             the
             Entrance
             into
             the
             Port
             there
             is
             a
             high
             square
             Tower
             ,
             commonly
             call'd
             
               The
               Tower
               of
               Leander
            
             ,
             from
             a
             Person
             of
             that
             Name
             ,
             who
             ,
             according
             to
             the
             Story
             ,
             us'd
             to
             swim
             thither
             every
             Night
             to
             see
             his
             Mistress
             ,
             who
             was
             imprison'd
             in
             the
             Tower.
             There
             is
             a
             Fountain
             on
             the
             Rock
             ,
             with
             some
             Pieces
             of
             Cannon
             ,
             which
             might
             defend
             the
             Entry
             in
             case
             of
             Necessity
             .
          
           
             As
             soon
             as
             we
             arriv'd
             ,
             I
             went
             with
             the
             Captain
             to
             salute
             the
             Baron
             
               de
               Chasteau-neuf
            
             ,
             Ambassador
             of
             France
             ,
             who
             receiv'd
             me
             very
             civilly
             .
             He
             has
             a
             good
             Mien
             ,
             and
             is
             Master
             of
             a
             great
             deal
             of
             Wit
             :
             He
             was
             formerly
             Councellor
             in
             the
             Parliament
             of
             Paris
             ,
             and
             was
             sent
             to
             the
             Port
             about
             the
             end
             of
             the
             last
             Year
             ,
             in
             the
             room
             of
             Monsieur
             
               de
               Girardin
            
             ,
             who
             died
             here
             .
             He
             is
             a
             Savoyard
             by
             birth
             ,
             but
             a
             very
             zealous
             Promoter
             of
             the
             Interests
             of
             Franee
             :
             He
             spares
             nothing
             to
             gain
             the
             Turks
             ;
             he
             endeavours
             to
             win
             'em
             with
             Presents
             ,
             Caresses
             ,
             and
             Entertainments
             ;
             his
             Table
             is
             always
             full
             of
             'em
             ;
             but
             his
             principal
             Care
             is
             to
             oblige
             those
             whom
             he
             knows
             to
             be
             the
             Favourites
             of
             the
             great
             Officers
             .
             I
             know
             one
             among
             the
             rest
             ,
             call'd
             
               Soliman
               Aga
            
             ,
             who
             is
             extremely
             debauch'd
             ,
             and
             since
             he
             always
             finds
             excellent
             Win●
             at
             the
             Ambassador●s
             Table
             ,
             he
             goes
             thither
             very
             often
             ,
             and
             is
             still
             receiv'd
             with
             all
             imaginable
             Demonstrations
             of
             Love
             and
             Kindness
             .
             After
             I
             had
             the
             Honour
             to
             
             Sup
             with
             the
             Ambassadour
             ,
             I
             went
             to
             lodge
             at
             a
             Tavern
             ,
             or
             Victualling-House
             .
             If
             I
             had
             resolv'd
             to
             have
             stay'd
             long
             in
             the
             Country
             ,
             I
             wou'd
             have
             boarded
             in
             some
             Family
             ,
             for
             Strangers
             are
             very
             ill
             accomodated
             in
             these
             Publick-Houses
             .
             Every
             Nation
             is
             permitted
             to
             have
             three
             ;
             so
             that
             there
             wou'd
             be
             nine
             in
             all
             ,
             if
             the
             English
             and
             Dutch
             thought
             fit
             to
             make
             use
             of
             their
             Privilege
             :
             'T
             is
             still
             more
             difficult
             to
             obtain
             a
             Permission
             to
             keep
             an
             Oven
             :
             One
             must
             procure
             a
             special
             Mandamus
             from
             the
             Sultan
             for
             that
             effect
             ,
             and
             pay
             a
             Thousand
             Avanies
             to
             the
             Bassa
             and
             Cadi
             ;
             and
             there
             is
             only
             one
             allow'd
             for
             the
             use
             of
             each
             Nation
             in
             every
             Town
             ;
             for
             the
             Turks
             are
             so
             extremely
             afraid
             of
             Fire
             ,
             that
             they
             suffer
             very
             few
             Ovens
             to
             be
             kept
             in
             their
             Cities
             .
             They
             are
             also
             very
             careful
             to
             prevent
             the
             Exportation
             of
             Corn
             ;
             for
             't
             is
             a
             Capital
             Crime
             to
             carry
             it
             out
             of
             the
             Country
             ,
             or
             even
             to
             sell
             it
             to
             private
             Families
             :
             And
             for
             the
             more
             effectual
             Execution
             of
             these
             Orders
             ,
             there
             are
             certain
             Officers
             appointed
             to
             over-see
             the
             Markets
             ,
             who
             suffer
             no
             Man
             to
             buy
             above
             *
             
               Four
               Muids
            
             at
             a
             time
             ,
             nor
             even
             the
             least
             quantity
             ,
             without
             a
             Licence
             from
             the
             Nais
             .
             Offences
             of
             this
             Nature
             are
             punish'd
             with
             so
             much
             Rigour
             ,
             that
             if
             a
             Peasant
             were
             convicted
             of
             selling
             his
             Corn
             to
             a
             Christian
             ,
             't
             wou'd
             cost
             him
             more
             than
             500
             Bastinado's
             .
             But
             before
             I
             proceed
             to
             describe
             the
             Manners
             and
             Customs
             of
             the
             Inhabitants
             ,
             I
             shall
             give
             you
             a
             short
             Account
             of
             the
             City
             of
             Constantinople
             .
          
           
             'T
             is
             seated
             in
             Europe
             ,
             on
             a
             Point
             or
             Tongue
             of
             Land
             that
             juts
             out
             into
             the
             Sea
             of
             Marmora
             ,
             in
             a
             Triangular
             Figure
             ,
             six
             Miles
             long
             ,
             and
             fourteen
             in
             compass
             ,
             two
             of
             its
             sides
             being
             wash'd
             by
             the
             Sea.
             'T
             was
             founded
             by
             Pausanias
             ,
             King
             of
             Sparta
             ,
             who
             gave
             it
             the
             Name
             of
             Byzantium
             ,
             which
             it
             retain'd
             
             till
             
               Constantine
               the
               Great
            
             ,
             resolving
             to
             make
             it
             the
             Metropolis
             of
             the
             World
             ,
             order'd
             it
             to
             be
             rebuilt
             with
             all
             imaginable
             Magnificence
             ;
             after
             which
             it
             took
             the
             Name
             of
             Constantinople
             ,
             or
             
               Constantine's
               Town
            
             ;
             but
             the
             Turks
             call
             it
             Stambol
             .
             The
             French
             ,
             in
             Conjunction
             with
             the
             Venetians
             ,
             took
             it
             in
             1203.
             and
             fifty
             Years
             after
             ▪
             t
             was
             re-taken
             by
             the
             Greeks
             ,
             who
             remain'd
             Masters
             of
             it
             till
             the
             Year
             1453
             ,
             when
             it
             fell
             into
             the
             Hands
             of
             Mahomet
             II.
             'T
             is
             at
             present
             the
             Capital
             City
             of
             the
             Ottoman
             Empire
             ,
             as
             it
             appears
             by
             the
             
               Grand
               Signior's
            
             Titles
             ,
             who
             stiles
             himself
             ,
             
               The
               Ruler
               of
               Kings
               ,
               Distributer
               of
               Crowns
               ,
               Lord
               of
               the
            
             White
             and
             Black
             
               Seas
               ,
               of
            
             Bagdat
             ,
             Grand
             Cairo
             ,
             Aleppo
             ,
             
               &c.
               and
               particularly
               of
               the
               fain
               City
               of
            
             Stambol
             the
             well-defended
             ,
             
               which
               is
               the
               Desire
               of
               the
               Kings
               and
               Princes
               of
               the
               Earth
               .
            
          
           
             The
             Air
             is
             extremely
             pure
             ,
             and
             so
             wholsome
             ,
             that
             the
             Inhabitants
             are
             never
             subject
             to
             any
             reigning
             Disease
             but
             the
             Plague
             ,
             which
             visits
             'em
             every
             Year
             ,
             and
             makes
             a
             dreadful
             Havock
             among
             '
             em
             .
             I
             'm
             apt
             to
             think
             that
             they
             wou'd
             live
             till
             they
             dropt
             into
             their
             Graves
             through
             meer
             Age
             and
             Weakness
             ,
             if
             their
             Days
             were
             not
             shorten'd
             by
             this
             Infectious
             Malady
             ;
             and
             they
             are
             so
             little
             acquainted
             with
             any
             other
             mortal
             Distemper
             ,
             that
             when
             a
             Frenchman
             assures
             'em
             that
             the
             Plague
             is
             hardly
             known
             in
             his
             Country
             ,
             they
             usually
             cry
             ,
             
               What
               d'
               ye
               die
               of
               then
            
             ?
             The
             Climate
             is
             so
             Temperate
             ,
             that
             the
             Winters
             are
             never
             excessively
             Cold
             ,
             and
             the
             Summer-Heats
             are
             usually
             allay'd
             with
             a
             pleasant
             Brieze
             ,
             besides
             the
             drinking
             of
             cool
             Liquors
             ,
             which
             ,
             in
             my
             Opinion
             ,
             is
             one
             of
             the
             greatest
             Pleasures
             of
             this
             Life
             .
          
           
             In
             the
             Account
             I
             have
             given
             you
             of
             the
             Situation
             and
             Bigness
             of
             Constantinople
             ,
             I
             speak
             only
             of
             the
             City
             which
             properly
             bears
             that
             Name
             ;
             for
             there
             are
             four
             other
             Towns
             join'd
             together
             ,
             call'd
             
             
               Cassum
               Pacha
               ,
               Galata
               ,
               Pera
               ,
            
             and
             Tophana
             ,
             which
             may
             be
             consider'd
             as
             a
             part
             ,
             or
             rather
             as
             the
             Suburbs
             of
             the
             City
             ,
             since
             they
             are
             only
             separated
             from
             it
             by
             the
             breadth
             of
             the
             Port
             ,
             which
             is
             so
             small
             a
             distance
             ,
             that
             a
             Man
             who
             cries
             aloud
             ,
             tho'
             without
             extending
             his
             Voice
             to
             the
             utmost
             ,
             may
             be
             easily
             heard
             on
             the
             other
             side
             .
             In
             these
             Towns
             ,
             and
             particularly
             in
             Pera
             ,
             the
             Ambassadors
             and
             all
             the
             Franks
             live
             ;
             for
             they
             are
             not
             permitted
             to
             reside
             at
             Constantinople
             .
             And
             't
             is
             to
             be
             observ'd
             ,
             that
             the
             Name
             of
             Franks
             is
             given
             indifferenly
             to
             Men
             of
             all
             Nations
             who
             wear
             Hats
             .
             These
             four
             Cities
             are
             about
             eight
             Miles
             in
             compass
             ;
             so
             that
             if
             they
             ,
             together
             with
             the
             Village
             of
             Scutaret
             ,
             and
             some
             other
             Suburbs
             ,
             be
             added
             to
             the
             City
             of
             Constantinople
             ,
             and
             all
             join'd
             together
             to
             make
             one
             vast
             Town
             ,
             Constantinople
             ,
             in
             this
             sense
             ,
             wou'd
             be
             found
             to
             be
             double
             of
             Paris
             .
             But
             there
             is
             a
             great
             variety
             of
             Opinions
             in
             this
             Case
             :
             Some
             comprehend
             all
             the
             above-mention'd
             places
             under
             the
             Name
             of
             Constantinople
             ,
             others
             cut
             off
             the
             four
             Cities
             ;
             and
             there
             are
             some
             who
             include
             the
             City
             within
             the
             compass
             of
             its
             own
             Walls
             ;
             so
             that
             almost
             every
             Traveller
             gives
             a
             different
             Account
             of
             its
             Extent
             from
             all
             others
             .
          
           
             The
             Walls
             with
             which
             't
             is
             at
             present
             surrounded
             ,
             are
             the
             same
             that
             were
             built
             by
             
               Constanstine
               the
               Great
            
             ,
             except
             in
             some
             places
             where
             they
             have
             been
             repair'd
             .
             They
             are
             double
             on
             the
             side
             next
             the
             Land
             ,
             with
             Battlements
             ,
             after
             the
             Oriental
             fashion
             ,
             and
             Towers
             from
             place
             to
             place
             ;
             and
             besides
             ,
             they
             are
             defended
             with
             a
             lin'd
             but
             shallow
             Ditch
             :
             These
             ,
             with
             the
             
               Castle
               of
               the
               Seven
               Towers
            
             ,
             are
             all
             the
             Strength
             of
             Constantinople
             ;
             for
             the
             Number
             of
             its
             Inhabitants
             deserves
             not
             to
             be
             reckon'd
             among
             its
             Advantages
             ,
             since
             those
             Turks
             who
             are
             never
             accustom'd
             to
             War
             ,
             are
             so
             unfit
             to
             resist
             an
             Enemy
             ,
             that
             they
             wou'd
             only
             serve
             to
             consume
             
             the
             Provisions
             ,
             and
             hasten
             a
             Famine
             :
             And
             besides
             ,
             I
             'm
             persuaded
             that
             Bombs
             wou'd
             do
             more
             execution
             here
             than
             in
             any
             other
             City
             in
             the
             World
             ;
             for
             the
             Houses
             are
             generally
             of
             Wood
             ,
             and
             the
             Streets
             so
             narrow
             ,
             that
             in
             the
             greatest
             part
             of
             'em
             two
             loaded
             Horses
             cannot
             go
             a-breast
             .
             But
             this
             is
             not
             the
             greatest
             inconvenience
             of
             their
             manner
             of
             Building
             ;
             for
             their
             Houses
             jut
             out
             so
             far
             near
             the
             Top
             ,
             that
             in
             several
             places
             one
             may
             step
             from
             one
             Window
             to
             another
             ,
             and
             cross
             the
             Street
             without
             going
             down
             from
             his
             Chamber
             .
             This
             Contrivance
             of
             their
             Houses
             does
             not
             proceed
             from
             want
             of
             Room
             ,
             for
             the
             City
             is
             full
             of
             Gardens
             ,
             and
             large
             Courts
             ,
             that
             are
             perfectly
             useless
             .
             But
             tho'
             I
             cannot
             acquaint
             you
             with
             the
             reason
             that
             makes
             'em
             so
             fond
             of
             this
             manner
             of
             Building
             ,
             I
             can
             assure
             you
             that
             it
             exposes
             'em
             to
             all
             those
             fatal
             Inconveniencies
             that
             are
             occasion'd
             by
             Fire
             ,
             which
             breaks
             out
             very
             frequently
             ,
             and
             proceeds
             with
             irresistable
             Fury
             ,
             till
             it
             meets
             with
             some
             Garden
             ,
             or
             empty
             Place
             ,
             where
             there
             are
             no
             Houses
             to
             be
             burnt
             .
             Among
             so
             many
             Instances
             of
             this
             Nature
             ,
             I
             shall
             only
             take
             notice
             of
             one
             that
             happen'd
             in
             the
             Year
             88
             ,
             which
             made
             so
             terrible
             a
             Havock
             in
             the
             City
             ,
             that
             there
             were
             above
             3000
             Houses
             laid
             in
             Ashes
             .
             But
             besides
             the
             dangerous
             Consequences
             of
             this
             kind
             of
             Architecture
             ,
             't
             is
             also
             very
             offensive
             to
             the
             Eye
             ;
             for
             the
             Streets
             are
             extremely
             disfigur'd
             by
             this
             Irregularity
             :
             Nor
             are
             there
             any
             external
             Ornaments
             on
             the
             Houses
             to
             make
             amends
             for
             this
             Defect
             ,
             since
             they
             are
             only
             daub●d
             over
             with
             a
             nasty
             red
             Paint
             ,
             laid
             upon
             the
             rough
             Wood
             ,
             which
             is
             neither
             plan'd
             ,
             nor
             cut
             with
             any
             other
             Instrument
             than
             an
             Axe
             or
             Saw
             ;
             so
             that
             the
             Houses
             are
             all
             very
             ugly
             .
             Judge
             ,
             Sir
             ,
             what
             reason
             I
             had
             to
             be
             surpriz'd
             ,
             when
             after
             I
             had
             view'd
             with
             Amazement
             the
             magnificent
             Prospect
             of
             the
             City
             from
             the
             
               Sea
               of
               
               Marmora
            
             ,
             I
             saw
             all
             my
             Expectations
             baulk'd
             ,
             and
             instead
             of
             so
             many
             Wonders
             ,
             found
             only
             some
             Mosques
             ,
             and
             a
             few
             Monuments
             of
             Antiquity
             .
             Not
             that
             I
             wou●d
             discourage
             any
             Curious
             Person
             from
             undertaking
             this
             Voyage
             ;
             for
             tho'
             the
             Manners
             and
             Customs
             of
             the
             Inhabitants
             ought
             never
             to
             be
             propos●d
             for
             Imitation
             ,
             they
             are
             so
             odd
             and
             singular
             ,
             that
             an
             Inquisitive
             Traveller
             may
             employ
             his
             Time
             and
             Curiosity
             with
             a
             great
             deal
             of
             Pleasure
             in
             observing
             '
             em
             .
             The
             Turks
             are
             opposite
             to
             us
             in
             almost
             all
             respects
             :
             We
             content
             our selves
             with
             one
             Wife
             ,
             They
             marry
             several
             Wives
             ;
             Our
             Habit
             is
             short
             ,
             Theirs
             long
             ;
             We
             wear
             our
             Hair
             long
             ,
             and
             our
             Beards
             shav'd
             ,
             They
             shave
             their
             Hair
             ,
             and
             suffer
             their
             Beards
             to
             grow
             ;
             We
             write
             in
             a
             streight
             Line
             from
             Left
             to
             Right
             ,
             and
             They
             in
             a
             crooked
             from
             Right
             to
             Left.
             I
             cou'd
             easily
             add
             several
             other
             Instances
             of
             the
             same
             Nature
             ,
             since
             the
             Opposition
             reaches
             even
             to
             the
             meanest
             Actions
             ,
             such
             as
             the
             easing
             of
             Nature
             ;
             for
             they
             crouch
             down
             to
             Piss
             ,
             like
             Women
             ,
             and
             when
             they
             have
             done
             ,
             rub
             their
             Privities
             on
             a
             Wall
             ,
             which
             they
             think
             purifies
             '
             em
             .
          
           
             Two
             Days
             after
             our
             Arrival
             at
             Galata
             ,
             the
             Captain
             and
             I
             went
             to
             see
             Constantinople
             ,
             with
             the
             French
             Interpreter
             ,
             who
             accompany'd
             us
             on
             purpose
             to
             show
             us
             all
             the
             Curiosities
             .
             There
             are
             always
             so
             many
             Boats
             passing
             from
             one
             side
             to
             another
             ,
             that
             the
             Port
             is
             usually
             cover'd
             with
             'em
             ,
             and
             their
             Fare
             is
             only
             an
             Asper
             .
             We
             took
             Boat
             at
             the
             Custom-House
             ,
             and
             enter'd
             the
             City
             at
             the
             Gate
             of
             Galata
             ,
             or
             the
             next
             Gate
             to
             the
             Seraglio
             ,
             which
             we
             kept
             on
             our
             Left-hand
             ,
             and
             went
             streight
             to
             the
             Besestin
             ,
             which
             is
             a
             distinct
             Canton
             of
             the
             City
             ,
             enclos'd
             with
             Gates
             and
             Walls
             ,
             where
             all
             the
             Merchants
             keep
             Shops
             .
             This
             is
             the
             finest
             and
             most
             regular
             place
             in
             Constantinople
             ,
             not
             unlike
             to
             the
             places
             that
             are
             appointed
             for
             the
             keeping
             of
             Fairs
             
             among
             us
             ,
             such
             as
             that
             of
             S.
             Germain
             at
             Paris
             :
             The
             Streets
             are
             divided
             after
             the
             same
             manner
             ,
             and
             cover'd
             above
             with
             Planks
             join'd
             together
             upon
             Rafters
             ,
             which
             form
             a
             kind
             of
             Roof
             ,
             sufficient
             to
             secure
             the
             place
             against
             all
             the
             Inconveniences
             of
             bad
             Weather
             ,
             tho'
             there
             are
             Holes
             left
             to
             let
             in
             the
             Light.
             Here
             all
             the
             finest
             and
             most
             precious
             Wares
             of
             Constantinople
             are
             to
             be
             seen
             ;
             for
             every
             Merchant
             keeps
             a
             Shop
             in
             this
             Place
             ,
             as
             it
             were
             for
             a
             Pattern
             of
             all
             the
             Goods
             contain'd
             in
             his
             Ware-house
             ;
             and
             the
             Shops
             are
             rank'd
             and
             dispos'd
             in
             such
             excellent
             Order
             ,
             that
             the
             Buyer
             may
             dispatch
             his
             Business
             in
             less
             than
             a
             quarter
             of
             an
             Hour
             ;
             for
             all
             the
             Trades
             are
             separated
             ,
             and
             confin'd
             to
             their
             proper
             places
             .
             Thus
             one
             part
             of
             the
             Besestin
             is
             possess●d
             by
             the
             goldsmiths
             ,
             whose
             Work
             ,
             indeed
             ,
             is
             not
             so
             fine
             ,
             nor
             their
             Shops
             so
             well
             furnish●d
             as
             in
             France
             or
             England
             ;
             but
             I
             only
             speak
             here
             of
             their
             Order
             and
             Regularity
             :
             Another
             place
             is
             set
             apart
             for
             the
             Drapers
             ,
             or
             those
             who
             sell
             
               Dutch
               ,
               French
            
             ,
             and
             English
             Cloth
             :
             Not
             far
             from
             thence
             are
             the
             Sellers
             of
             Silk
             Stuffs
             ,
             and
             Gold
             and
             Silver
             Brocado's
             ;
             the
             Makers
             of
             Talpo
             ,
             or
             Head-Dresses
             for
             Women
             ,
             which
             are
             very
             magnificent
             ;
             the
             Babouchi
             ,
             or
             Shoo●-makers
             ,
             the
             
               Taylors
               ,
               Grocers
            
             ,
             and
             all
             sort
             of
             Shopkeepers
             ,
             have
             also
             their
             distinct
             Streets
             .
             The
             Gates
             are
             shut
             every
             Evening
             at
             Ten
             a
             Clock
             ,
             by
             Persons
             who
             are
             hir●d
             for
             that
             purpose
             ,
             and
             those
             who
             have
             occasion
             to
             pass
             this
             way
             later
             ,
             must
             give
             two
             or
             three
             Pence
             to
             the
             Porters
             ,
             who
             wait
             constantly
             at
             the
             Gates
             .
             This
             is
             the
             only
             place
             in
             Constantinople
             where
             there
             are
             Shops
             ;
             for
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             City
             consists
             only
             of
             little
             and
             narrow
             Streets
             ,
             which
             for
             the
             most
             part
             are
             so
             desolate
             that
             one
             may
             pass
             thro'
             the
             Town
             without
             meeting
             so
             many
             Persons
             as
             Streets
             ,
             unless
             in
             the
             Publick
             Places
             ,
             such
             as
             the
             Hyppodrome
             ,
             whither
             we
             went
             after
             we
             had
             view'd
             the
             Besestin
             .
             This
             spacious
             
             Place
             was
             built
             by
             the
             Emperour
             Constantine
             ,
             for
             Exercises
             on
             Horse-back
             ,
             and
             is
             still
             call'd
             by
             the
             Turks
             ,
             the
             
               Place
               of
               Horses
            
             .
             'T
             is
             an
             Oblong
             Square
             ,
             400
             Paces
             long
             ,
             and
             about
             200
             broad
             .
             Towards
             the
             End
             opposite
             to
             the
             Seraglio
             ,
             there
             are
             two
             Obelisks
             ;
             the
             first
             consisting
             of
             one
             Stone
             ,
             is
             seventy
             Foot
             high
             ,
             adorn'd
             with
             several
             Hieroglyphical
             Figures
             in
             Relief
             ,
             and
             plac'd
             on
             a
             square
             Marble
             Pedestal
             .
             On
             one
             of
             the
             Faces
             of
             the
             Pedestal
             ,
             there
             is
             a
             Latin
             Inscription
             ,
             so
             ancient
             and
             worn
             ,
             that
             all
             that
             can
             be
             learn'd
             by
             it
             is
             ,
             that
             it
             was
             built
             by
             Theodosius
             :
             The
             second
             contains
             a
             like
             Inscription
             in
             Greek
             :
             The
             third
             is
             adorn'd
             with
             the
             Figure
             of
             the
             Emperour
             seated
             on
             a
             Throne
             ,
             and
             accompany'd
             with
             his
             great
             Officers
             ;
             and
             in
             the
             fourth
             there
             is
             a
             Representation
             of
             a
             Battle
             ,
             in
             Memory
             of
             some
             Victory
             obtain'd
             over
             that
             Prince's
             Enemies
             .
             The
             other
             Obelisk
             is
             a
             sharp
             pointed
             Pyramid
             ,
             built
             of
             Free-Stones
             ,
             without
             any
             Inscription
             ,
             and
             begins
             to
             decay
             extremely
             .
             Near
             these
             Obelisks
             there
             is
             a
             Brazen
             Pillar
             of
             a
             considerable
             height
             ,
             commonly
             call'd
             the
             
               Serpentine
               Column
            
             ,
             because
             it
             consists
             of
             three
             Serpents
             wreath'd
             and
             twisted
             together
             ,
             with
             their
             Tails
             fasten'd
             in
             the
             Ground
             ,
             and
             ending
             at
             the
             Top
             in
             three
             gaping
             Heads
             ,
             which
             seem
             to
             hiss
             ,
             and
             threaten
             the
             three
             parts
             of
             the
             World
             that
             were
             known
             in
             that
             Age.
             Some
             pretend
             that
             this
             Column
             is
             a
             Hieroglyphical
             Representation
             of
             the
             united
             Empires
             of
             the
             East
             and
             West
             ,
             extending
             their
             Dominion
             over
             the
             whole
             Universe
             :
             But
             the
             most
             common
             Opinion
             is
             ,
             that
             in
             the
             time
             of
             the
             Emperour
             
               Leo
               Isaurus
            
             ,
             who
             was
             a
             great
             Magician
             ,
             there
             were
             three
             Monstruous
             Serpents
             ,
             who
             made
             so
             prodigious
             a
             Havock
             in
             the
             Country
             about
             Constantinople
             ,
             that
             the
             People
             were
             forc'd
             to
             abandon
             their
             Habitations
             ;
             and
             that
             the
             Emperor
             drew
             these
             Serpents
             by
             Enchantment
             into
             a
             large
             
             Ditch
             ,
             which
             he
             made
             in
             the
             middle
             of
             the
             Hippodrome
             ,
             where
             they
             were
             kill'd
             ,
             and
             cover'd
             with
             Earth
             .
             The
             Story
             adds
             ,
             that
             to
             prevent
             a
             like
             Misfortune
             for
             the
             future
             ,
             this
             Column
             was
             erected
             by
             the
             same
             Prince
             ,
             as
             a
             Talisman
             against
             Serpents
             ,
             of
             which
             there
             are
             at
             present
             very
             few
             in
             the
             Country
             .
             One
             of
             these
             Heads
             wants
             the
             the
             Nether-Jaw
             ,
             and
             't
             is
             said
             that
             
               Sultan
               Morat
            
             broke
             it
             off
             with
             his
             Hand
             .
             The
             Turks
             boast
             much
             of
             the
             wonderful
             Strength
             of
             that
             Emperour
             ,
             as
             a
             Memorial
             of
             which
             ,
             they
             preserve
             in
             the
             Castle
             of
             
               Grand
               Cairo
            
             ,
             ten
             great
             Bucklers
             pierc'd
             with
             a
             Stake
             ,
             or
             Wooden
             Javelin
             ,
             which
             they
             pretend
             he
             darted
             at
             'em
             ;
             the
             Stake
             sticking
             still
             in
             the
             Bucklers
             ,
             and
             keeping
             'em
             all
             joyn●d
             together
             .
          
           
             The
             Story
             of
             the
             
               Serpentine
               Column
            
             is
             not
             the
             only
             fabulous
             Tradition
             concerning
             the
             Emperour
             Leo.
             The
             Greeks
             ,
             especially
             ,
             who
             are
             without
             Contradiction
             the
             most
             superstitious
             People
             in
             the
             World
             ,
             and
             most
             addicted
             to
             Miracles
             ,
             take
             pleasure
             in
             relating
             a
             Thousand
             Wonders
             of
             the
             Life
             of
             that
             Prince
             .
             For
             Example
             :
             They
             tell
             us
             that
             he
             made
             two
             Torto●ses
             ,
             by
             Art
             Magick
             ,
             of
             a
             surprizing
             bigness
             ,
             which
             drew
             his
             Chariot
             ,
             and
             both
             Eat
             and
             Drank
             ,
             tho'
             they
             were
             not
             natural
             Animals
             ;
             adding
             ,
             that
             these
             Tertois●s
             are
             still
             to
             be
             seen
             in
             the
             
               Grand
               Sign●or's
            
             Garden
             ,
             but
             that
             they
             have
             remain'd
             immoveable
             ever
             since
             his
             Death
             .
             They
             pretend
             also
             that
             the
             same
             Emperour
             made
             a
             Tree
             with
             its
             Franches
             and
             Leaves
             so
             artificially
             contriv●d
             ,
             that
             they
             seem●d
             to
             be
             perfectly
             Natural
             ,
             and
             that
             the
             Boughs
             were
             fill'd
             with
             a
             hundred
             
               Magical
               Birds
            
             of
             different
             kinds
             ,
             who
             upon
             the
             least
             breath
             of
             Wind
             ,
             warbl'd
             out
             their
             various
             Notes
             ,
             and
             all
             together
             made
             a
             most
             charming
             Melody
             .
             These
             are
             some
             of
             the
             Tales
             with
             which
             the
             Greeks
             are
             wont
             to
             talk
             Men
             asleep
             .
          
           
             There
             are
             two
             other
             Columns
             in
             Constantinople
             ,
             
             one
             call'd
             the
             Historical
             ,
             and
             the
             other
             the
             
               Burnt
               Column
            
             ;
             for
             the
             last
             was
             actually
             burnt
             .
             Adjoining
             to
             these
             we
             saw
             a
             large
             Court
             ,
             appointed
             for
             the
             use
             of
             Archers
             :
             The
             Master
             of
             the
             Sport
             presented
             us
             with
             a
             Bow
             ,
             and
             we
             had
             the
             Pleasure
             to
             shoot
             some
             Arrows
             at
             the
             Mark
             ,
             which
             was
             fasten'd
             on
             a
             Wall
             ,
             and
             contain'd
             several
             lesser
             Marks
             ,
             gradually
             decreasing
             ,
             so
             that
             the
             least
             was
             not
             bigger
             than
             a
             
               Dutch
               Skelling
            
             ;
             and
             yet
             I
             saw
             several
             Persons
             who
             hit
             at
             every
             Shoot
             ,
             tho'
             they
             stood
             100
             Paces
             off
             .
          
           
             In
             our
             return
             to
             Galata
             we
             pass'd
             by
             
               Sancta
               Sophia
            
             ,
             which
             is
             at
             present
             the
             principal
             Mosque
             of
             the
             City
             .
             There
             are
             several
             Doors
             that
             lead
             into
             a
             Portico
             ,
             which
             brought
             us
             immediately
             into
             the
             Mosque
             .
             'T
             is
             120
             Paces
             long
             ,
             and
             80
             broad
             :
             The
             Walls
             are
             Square
             ,
             but
             the
             Vault
             or
             Roof
             is
             Round
             ,
             and
             so
             artificially
             contriv'd
             ,
             that
             so
             large
             a
             Structure
             is
             supported
             without
             any
             Columns
             ;
             for
             those
             Rows
             of
             Columns
             that
             form
             the
             two
             lower
             Portico's
             ,
             serve
             only
             for
             Ornament
             ,
             and
             are
             so
             plac'd
             that
             they
             cannot
             be
             suppos'd
             to
             carry
             any
             other
             weight
             than
             that
             of
             two
             Galleries
             ;
             and
             even
             the
             greatest
             part
             of
             these
             Columns
             are
             so
             old
             ,
             that
             they
             are
             forc'd
             to
             bind
             'em
             about
             with
             great
             Iron
             Hoops
             ,
             to
             prevent
             their
             falling
             .
             I
             know
             not
             what
             cou'd
             occasion
             all
             those
             Chinks
             that
             are
             observ'd
             in
             'em
             ,
             for
             they
             are
             built
             of
             a
             very
             hard
             and
             polish'd
             Stone
             ,
             which
             some
             think
             is
             a
             kind
             of
             Marble
             ,
             tho'
             others
             believe
             it
             to
             be
             the
             
               Serpentine
               Stone
            
             .
             There
             are
             thirty
             on
             each
             side
             ,
             about
             sixteen
             Foot
             high
             ,
             with
             very
             fine
             Cornices
             :
             The
             Vault
             of
             the
             Mosque
             retains
             almost
             all
             its
             ancient
             Beauty
             ;
             't
             is
             enrich'd
             with
             a
             very
             fine
             Mosaick
             Work
             ,
             consisting
             of
             little
             gilt
             Stones
             so
             exactly
             join'd
             together
             ,
             that
             they
             remain
             almost
             perfectly
             entire
             after
             so
             many
             Ages
             .
          
           
             At
             the
             four
             Corners
             of
             the
             Building
             where
             the
             Vault
             begins
             to
             be
             round
             ,
             the
             
               four
               Beasts
            
             mention'd
             
             in
             the
             Apocalyps
             ,
             are
             painted
             in
             Mosaick
             ;
             only
             the
             Turks
             have
             disfigur'd
             their
             Faces
             ,
             as
             they
             have
             also
             done
             to
             an
             Image
             of
             
               Our
               Saviour
            
             ,
             which
             is
             over
             the
             principal
             Door
             ,
             represented
             after
             the
             Greek
             Fashion
             ,
             upon
             a
             Throne
             ,
             with
             his
             Hand
             lifted
             ,
             and
             two
             of
             his
             Fingers
             stretch'd
             out
             ,
             to
             bless
             a
             Saint
             ,
             who
             lies
             prostrate
             before
             him
             ,
             with
             his
             Face
             on
             the
             Ground
             ,
             the
             Virgin
             appearing
             on
             the
             other
             side
             .
             Over
             the
             same
             Door
             there
             is
             also
             a
             Basso-Relievo
             ,
             representing
             the
             
               Holy
               Ghost
            
             in
             the
             form
             of
             a
             Dove
             ,
             which
             the
             Turks
             have
             not
             in
             the
             least
             disfigur'd
             .
             The
             Tomb
             of
             Constantine
             remains
             also
             intire
             ,
             which
             the
             Turks
             hold
             in
             great
             Veneration
             ;
             as
             well
             as
             the
             Stone
             on
             which
             the
             Virgin
             wash'd
             
               Our
               Saviour's
            
             Linnen
             .
             This
             Temple
             is
             pav'd
             with
             very
             fine
             Marble
             ,
             and
             the
             Floor
             is
             cover'd
             with
             Mats
             ;
             not
             to
             keep
             it
             from
             being
             foil'd
             ,
             for
             they
             always
             put
             off
             their
             Babouche's
             ,
             or
             Shooes
             ,
             before
             they
             enter
             ;
             but
             by
             reason
             of
             the
             coldness
             of
             the
             Marble
             ,
             which
             might
             incommode
             those
             who
             come
             to
             perform
             their
             Devotions
             in
             this
             place
             ,
             especially
             since
             they
             kneel
             or
             crouch
             down
             ,
             almost
             after
             the
             same
             manner
             as
             they
             sit
             upon
             their
             Sopha's
             .
             The
             Keeper
             of
             the
             Temple
             was
             easily
             brib'd
             to
             permit
             me
             to
             satisfie
             my
             Curiosity
             with
             a
             distinct
             view
             of
             all
             the
             Curiosities
             I
             have
             describ'd
             :
             But
             these
             Officers
             are
             not
             always
             in
             so
             good
             a
             Humour
             ;
             for
             sometimes
             they
             are
             very
             civil
             ,
             and
             soon
             prevail'd
             with
             to
             admit
             a
             Stranger
             into
             the
             Temple
             ;
             but
             at
             other
             times
             they
             are
             so
             Surly
             and
             Obstinate
             ,
             that
             one
             can
             hardly
             procure
             that
             Satisfaction
             at
             the
             rate
             of
             ten
             Pistoles
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             indeed
             ,
             they
             are
             expresly
             forbidden
             to
             grant
             that
             favour
             to
             Christians
             ;
             and
             the
             permission
             which
             is
             sometimes
             given
             to
             Franks
             ,
             is
             only
             an
             effect
             of
             their
             Indulgence
             :
             For
             if
             a
             Greek
             or
             Iew
             were
             found
             in
             the
             Mosque
             ,
             he
             wou'd
             either
             be
             immediately
             put
             to
             Death
             ,
             or
             constrain'd
             to
             save
             his
             Life
             by
             renouncing
             his
             Religion
             .
          
           
           
             Sophia
             is
             a
             Greek
             Word
             ,
             signifying
             Wisdom
             ,
             and
             this
             Temple
             was
             so
             call'd
             by
             the
             Emperor
             Justinian
             ,
             who
             consecrated
             it
             to
             the
             
               Sovereign
               Wisdom
            
             .
             I
             shall
             briefly
             acquaint
             you
             with
             the
             History
             of
             its
             Foundation
             ,
             as
             I
             had
             it
             from
             the
             Greeks
             .
             You
             may
             depend
             upon
             the
             fidelity
             of
             my
             Relation
             ;
             but
             I
             dare
             not
             undertake
             to
             justifie
             the
             Credit
             of
             my
             Authors
             .
          
           
             The
             Emperor
             Iustinian
             being
             dangerously
             sick
             ,
             his
             Physician
             ,
             call'd
             Samson
             ,
             whose
             Mind
             was
             no
             less
             enlighten'd
             by
             the
             Inspirations
             of
             the
             
               Holy
               Ghost
            
             ,
             than
             by
             the
             Knowledge
             of
             Philosophy
             ,
             and
             of
             the
             Art
             which
             he
             profess'd
             ,
             told
             him
             ,
             that
             his
             Distemper
             was
             of
             such
             a
             Nature
             ,
             that
             it
             cou'd
             not
             be
             cur'd
             by
             the
             Precepts
             of
             Physick
             ,
             and
             that
             he
             must
             depend
             wholly
             upon
             the
             Assistance
             of
             Heaven
             ,
             advising
             him
             to
             make
             some
             Religious
             Vows
             ,
             and
             encouraging
             him
             with
             some
             Assurances
             that
             God
             wou'd
             hear
             his
             Prayer
             .
             The
             Devout
             Prince
             cheerfully
             embrac'd
             his
             Counsel
             ,
             and
             vow'd
             to
             build
             a
             Temple
             which
             shou'd
             surpass
             all
             the
             Churches
             of
             the
             World
             in
             Magnificence
             .
             God
             was
             pleas'd
             with
             the
             sincerity
             of
             his
             Devotion
             ;
             he
             rewarded
             his
             Faith
             ,
             and
             rescu'd
             him
             from
             the
             Jaws
             of
             Death
             :
             Nor
             was
             Iustinian
             unmindful
             of
             his
             Duty
             to
             his
             Gracious
             Deliverer
             .
             In
             order
             to
             the
             performanc●
             of
             his
             Vow
             ,
             he
             fram'd
             the
             Model
             of
             the
             Church
             of
             
               Sancta
               Sophia
            
             ,
             such
             as
             't
             is
             at
             present
             ,
             and
             employ'd
             a
             vast
             Number
             of
             Workmen
             on
             the
             intended
             Building
             :
             But
             he
             had
             the
             Misfortune
             to
             see
             all
             his
             Treasures
             exhausted
             before
             the
             third
             part
             of
             the
             Work
             was
             compleated
             ;
             so
             that
             he
             cou'd
             neither
             prosecute
             his
             Design
             ,
             nor
             so
             much
             as
             pay
             50
             Days
             Wages
             which
             he
             ow'd
             to
             the
             Workmen
             ;
             for
             Christian
             Emperors
             had
             not
             then
             assum'd
             the
             power
             of
             imposing
             Taxes
             on
             their
             Subjects
             ,
             without
             an
             indispensable
             Necessity
             .
             He
             was
             so
             overcome
             with
             Sorrow
             when
             he
             saw
             that
             he
             cou'd
             
             neither
             finish
             so
             pious
             a
             Work
             ,
             nor
             ,
             do
             Justice
             to
             the
             poor
             Men
             whom
             he
             had
             imploy'd
             ,
             that
             he
             burst
             forth
             into
             Tears
             ,
             and
             retir'd
             to
             his
             Closet
             ,
             where
             he
             was
             breathing
             out
             his
             Complaints
             in
             the
             presence
             of
             his
             God
             ;
             when
             a
             sudden
             Light
             shone
             thro'
             the
             Room
             ,
             and
             discover'd
             a
             Youth
             of
             incomparable
             Beauty
             ,
             who
             assur'd
             the
             sorrowful
             Emperour
             that
             God
             had
             seen
             his
             Tears
             ,
             and
             heard
             his
             Prayers
             ,
             and
             told
             him
             that
             he
             might
             quickly
             be
             happy
             if
             he
             wou'd
             send
             some
             of
             his
             Servants
             and
             50
             Camels
             along
             with
             him
             .
             Justinian's
             Heart
             was
             fill'd
             with
             Joy
             at
             the
             hearing
             of
             such
             welcome
             and
             unexpected
             Tidings
             :
             He
             commanded
             twenty
             of
             his
             Servants
             ,
             with
             fifty
             Camels
             ,
             to
             attend
             the
             bright
             Messenger
             ,
             who
             carry'd
             'em
             out
             of
             Constantinople
             to
             a
             Field
             ,
             where
             they
             found
             a
             stately
             Palace
             ,
             tho'
             there
             was
             never
             any
             Building
             seen
             in
             that
             place
             either
             before
             or
             since
             .
             The
             Beauteous
             Youth
             ,
             or
             rather
             Angel
             ,
             (
             for
             so
             it
             seems
             he
             was
             )
             open'd
             the
             Gates
             of
             this
             Magnificent
             Structure
             ,
             and
             led
             'em
             to
             a
             Hall
             ,
             where
             they
             saw
             vast
             Heaps
             of
             Gold
             ,
             Silver
             ,
             and
             all
             sorts
             of
             Jewels
             :
             He
             orderd
             'em
             to
             load
             their
             Camels
             ;
             and
             then
             both
             he
             and
             the
             Palace
             disappear'd
             ,
             only
             the
             Treasure
             remain'd
             ,
             which
             the
             Emperor
             receiv'd
             with
             all
             the
             Marks
             of
             a
             joyful
             Gratitude
             ,
             and
             employ'd
             it
             in
             building
             and
             adorning
             the
             Church
             of
             
               Sancta
               Sophia
            
             in
             so
             admirable
             a
             manner
             ,
             that
             the
             
               Temple
               of
               Solomon
            
             in
             its
             highest
             Glory
             ,
             was
             neither
             more
             Beautiful
             nor
             Magnificent
             .
             He
             built
             also
             with
             the
             same
             Money
             a
             large
             and
             stately
             Hospital
             ,
             where
             Persons
             of
             all
             Nations
             were
             charitably
             entertain'd
             .
             And
             since
             there
             was
             still
             a
             great
             quantity
             of
             Treasure
             left
             ,
             which
             the
             Emperor's
             Piety
             wou'd
             not
             suffer
             him
             to
             employ
             in
             prophane
             Uses
             ,
             he
             order'd
             the
             Jewels
             to
             be
             samp'd
             to
             Powder
             ,
             and
             the
             Gold
             and
             Silver
             to
             be
             melted
             ,
             and
             mixing
             'em
             all
             together
             ,
             he
             made
             the
             most
             precious
             Table
             that
             ever
             adorn'd
             
             a
             Temple
             ,
             and
             plac'd
             it
             on
             the
             High
             Altar
             ,
             to
             serve
             at
             the
             daily
             Consecration
             of
             the
             Sacrament
             ,
             where
             it
             remain'd
             till
             the
             Venetians
             carry'd
             it
             away
             with
             those
             admirable
             Brazen
             Gates
             ,
             which
             are
             at
             present
             to
             be
             seen
             at
             S.
             Mark
             's
             .
             But
             God
             wou'd
             not
             suffer
             so
             Holy
             a
             Piece
             to
             become
             a
             Prey
             to
             those
             who
             cou'd
             not
             pretend
             any
             right
             to
             it
             ;
             the
             Galley
             that
             carry'd
             it
             open'd
             miraculously
             at
             the
             Mouth
             of
             the
             Canal
             ,
             in
             the
             Sea
             of
             Marmora
             ,
             where
             it
             sunk
             ,
             and
             was
             never
             afterwards
             found
             .
          
           
             This
             ,
             Sir
             ,
             (
             if
             you
             have
             Faith
             enough
             to
             believe
             it
             )
             is
             the
             Original
             of
             
               Sancta
               Sophia
            
             ,
             which
             was
             formerly
             a
             
               Christian
               Church
            
             ,
             and
             is
             now
             a
             
               Turkish
               Mosquee
            
             .
             'T
             is
             at
             present
             the
             only
             Ancient
             Structure
             of
             that
             Nature
             in
             Constantinople
             ;
             for
             all
             the
             rest
             were
             built
             in
             this
             and
             the
             last
             Age
             ,
             by
             the
             Sultans
             or
             Sultanesses
             ,
             whose
             Names
             they
             bear
             .
             There
             are
             seven
             or
             eight
             particularly
             remarkable
             ,
             I
             mean
             those
             of
             the
             
               Sultans
               Mahomet
               ,
               Achmet
               ,
               Solyman
               ,
            
             and
             Selim
             ,
             with
             those
             of
             Chazadet
             ,
             and
             Validé
             ,
             and
             some
             others
             ,
             built
             after
             the
             same
             Model
             ,
             and
             differing
             only
             in
             the
             largeness
             of
             the
             Structure
             ,
             the
             Number
             of
             the
             Fountains
             ,
             and
             variety
             of
             the
             Painting
             ;
             so
             that
             the
             Description
             of
             one
             will
             give
             a
             just
             Idea
             of
             all
             the
             rest
             ,
             and
             therefore
             I
             shall
             make
             choice
             of
             that
             of
             Valide
             ,
             which
             is
             the
             newest
             and
             most
             beautiful
             Mosque
             I
             have
             yet
             seen
             :
             'T
             was
             built
             by
             the
             
               Sultaness
               Validé
            
             ,
             Mother
             of
             
               Sultan
               Mahomet
            
             IV.
             and
             is
             seated
             in
             the
             midst
             of
             a
             large
             square
             Court
             ,
             resembling
             a
             vast
             Cloyster
             ,
             because
             of
             the
             arch'd
             Roofs
             that
             inviron
             it
             in
             form
             of
             Portico's
             ;
             under
             which
             there
             are
             many
             Fountains
             with
             Cocks
             ,
             where
             those
             who
             are
             polluted
             may
             wash
             themselves
             before
             they
             enter
             the
             Mosquee
             .
             It
             has
             but
             one
             Gate
             ,
             surrounded
             with
             a
             Portico
             of
             a
             considerable
             height
             ,
             pav'd
             with
             white
             and
             black
             Marble
             ,
             and
             supported
             by
             sixty
             four
             Columns
             of
             red
             Marble
             ,
             eight
             of
             which
             are
             of
             Porphyrie
             ,
             
             plac'd
             near
             the
             Entry
             ,
             but
             of
             no
             very
             regular
             Design
             ,
             because
             the
             bigness
             of
             the
             Pieces
             is
             preserv'd
             entire
             :
             The
             Plafond
             is
             adorn'd
             with
             Painting
             and
             Figures
             ,
             after
             the
             Turkish
             manner
             ,
             of
             which
             afterwards
             you
             may
             expect
             a
             more
             particular
             Account
             .
             The
             Portico
             is
             cover'd
             with
             little
             Domes
             ,
             with
             a
             very
             large
             one
             in
             the
             middle
             ,
             over-topping
             the
             rest
             ;
             the
             whole
             Structure
             consisting
             of
             Mason's-Work
             cover'd
             with
             Lead
             .
             At
             the
             four
             Corners
             of
             the
             Building
             there
             are
             four
             Turrets
             ,
             call'd
             Minarets
             ,
             built
             of
             Free-Stone
             ,
             and
             so
             small
             that
             there
             is
             just
             room
             enough
             within
             for
             a
             little
             Winding-Stair-case
             ,
             reaching
             to
             three
             fourth
             parts
             of
             the
             Height
             ,
             which
             the
             Muezans
             ,
             or
             Marabouds
             ,
             ascend
             every
             Morning
             and
             Evening
             ,
             to
             give
             the
             People
             notice
             of
             the
             appointed
             times
             of
             Prayer
             ,
             shouting
             till
             they
             are
             out
             of
             Breath
             ,
             with
             an
             extremely
             harsh
             and
             disagreeable
             Tone
             ;
             for
             they
             begin
             with
             a
             very
             low
             Voice
             ,
             and
             raising
             it
             by
             degrees
             ,
             end
             in
             a
             very
             loud
             Shriek
             ,
             so
             that
             't
             wou'd
             be
             impossible
             to
             understand
             'em
             ,
             if
             the
             People
             were
             not
             already
             acquainted
             with
             what
             they
             say
             .
             As
             they
             cry
             ,
             they
             clap
             their
             Hands
             upon
             their
             Ears
             ,
             and
             go
             round
             the
             Turret
             in
             a
             little
             Balcony
             ,
             that
             their
             Voice
             may
             be
             heard
             thro'
             the
             whole
             Town
             ,
             repeating
             these
             Words
             ;
             
               Allah
               ekber
               ,
               allah
               ekber
               ,
               allah
               ekber
               ,
               eschadou
               in
               la
               illah
               ,
               illallah
               ,
               hi
               alle
               salla
               ,
               hi
               alle
               salla
               ,
               allah
               ekber
               ,
               allah
               ekber
               ,
               allah
               ekber
               ,
               la
               illah
               ,
               illallah
               .
               God
               is
               Great
               ,
               God
               is
               Great
               ,
               God
               is
               Great
               ;
               give
               testimony
               that
               there
               is
               but
               One
               God
               :
               Come
               yield
               your selves
               up
               to
               his
               Mercy
               ,
               and
               pray
               him
               to
               forgive
               you
               your
               Sins
               .
               God
               is
               Great
               ,
               God
               is
               Great
               ,
               God
               is
               Great
               ,
               there
               is
               no
               other
               God
               but
               God.
            
             These
             Turrets
             are
             very
             high
             ,
             and
             for
             the
             most
             part
             end
             in
             a
             Globe
             or
             Crescent
             ,
             which
             is
             sometimes
             Gilt.
             This
             is
             a
             brief
             Representation
             of
             the
             external
             Architecture
             of
             Valid●
             ,
             and
             consequently
             of
             the
             other
             Mosquees
             .
             Within
             they
             are
             either
             vaulted
             ,
             or
             cover'd
             with
             a
             
             Plafond
             :
             That
             of
             Validé
             is
             vaulted
             ,
             and
             adorn'd
             with
             a
             great
             Number
             of
             Lamps
             ,
             and
             Globes
             of
             Glass
             .
             When
             they
             say
             Prayers
             ,
             they
             turn
             their
             Face
             towards
             a
             large
             Frame
             at
             the
             end
             of
             the
             Mosque
             ,
             in
             the
             same
             place
             where
             the
             High-Altar
             stands
             in
             Roman-Catholick
             Churches
             .
             There
             is
             no
             Figure
             represented
             on
             this
             Frame
             or
             Table
             ,
             only
             the
             Name
             of
             GOD
             is
             written
             on
             it
             in
             Arabick
             Characters
             ;
             and
             over-against
             it
             stands
             two
             Brazen
             Candlesticks
             ,
             with
             a
             Taper
             of
             Virgin-Wax
             in
             each
             ,
             bigger
             than
             a
             Man's
             Thigh
             .
             In
             the
             Mosquees
             that
             are
             founded
             by
             Emperôrs
             ,
             there
             is
             usually
             a
             Turbé
             ,
             or
             little
             Chappel
             ,
             in
             which
             they
             are
             bury'd
             .
             Some
             Sultans
             have
             built
             Turbe's
             apart
             ,
             resembling
             little
             Mosquees
             .
             Those
             of
             Amurat
             and
             Solyman
             I.
             are
             thè
             finest
             :
             The
             Body
             of
             the
             last
             lies
             in
             a
             Coffin
             ,
             like
             those
             that
             are
             us'd
             in
             France
             ,
             cover'd
             with
             a
             large
             piece
             of
             Tapistry
             ,
             with
             a
             Turbant
             on
             his
             Head
             ,
             in
             which
             there
             are
             two
             fine
             Aigrets
             .
             In
             the
             Turbé
             of
             Amurat
             there
             are
             Eleven
             of
             his
             Children
             plac'd
             round
             him
             ,
             with
             two
             of
             his
             Wives
             ;
             and
             at
             the
             Head
             of
             the
             Coffin
             there
             is
             a
             little
             Cupboard
             or
             Press
             ,
             where
             his
             Prayer-Books
             are
             kept
             ,
             which
             ,
             are
             adorn'd
             with
             Gold
             and
             Precious-Stones
             ,
             appearing
             thro'
             a
             Latten
             Grate
             ,
             and
             all
             Mussulmen
             are
             permitted
             to
             read
             there
             ,
             for
             the
             Repose
             of
             the
             Souls
             of
             the
             deceas'd
             .
             The
             Keepers
             of
             the
             Turbé
             are
             also
             oblig'd
             to
             pray
             for
             'em
             at
             certain
             Hours
             of
             the
             Day
             .
             This
             Sepulchre
             is
             not
             very
             magnificent
             .
          
           
             Having
             seen
             all
             the
             above-mention'd
             places
             ,
             we
             return'd
             to
             Galata
             ,
             resolving
             to
             spend
             another
             Day
             in
             visiting
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             Curiosities
             at
             Constantinople
             ,
             which
             will
             furnish
             me
             with
             Matter
             for
             another
             Letter
             .
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             I
             am
             ,
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
             
               Your
               .
               &c.
               
            
             
               Constantinople
               ;
               
                 July
                 ,
                 1690.
                 
              
            
          
        
         
           
           
             LETTER
             XIII
             .
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
          
           
             THere
             are
             so
             few
             Palaces
             or
             other
             remarkable
             Buildings
             in
             Constantinople
             ,
             that
             in
             two
             Days
             I
             compleated
             my
             Walk
             thro'
             the
             City
             ;
             and
             the
             Observations
             I
             made
             are
             so
             inconsiderable
             ,
             that
             I
             shall
             easily
             be
             able
             to
             finish
             ,
             in
             this
             Letter
             ,
             the
             Description
             which
             I
             began
             in
             the
             last
             .
          
           
             The
             
               Grand
               Signior
               ▪
               s
               Arsenal
            
             is
             at
             the
             End
             of
             the
             Port
             ,
             beyond
             
               Cassum
               Pacha
            
             and
             Galata
             .
             I
             found
             the
             Building
             better
             than
             I
             expected
             ,
             after
             what
             I
             had
             seen
             in
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             City
             ;
             and
             besides
             ,
             it
             contains
             a
             considerable
             extent
             of
             Ground
             :
             The
             Galleys
             are
             laid
             up
             under
             120
             Arches
             ,
             and
             't
             is
             said
             there
             are
             Arms
             in
             it
             for
             60000
             Men.
             But
             the
             Magazins
             are
             inaccessible
             to
             Christians
             ,
             and
             they
             are
             only
             permitted
             to
             see
             the
             Baths
             where
             the
             Sultan's
             Slaves
             are
             shut
             up
             ;
             the
             Number
             of
             these
             Wretches
             amounts
             to
             several
             Thousands
             ;
             and
             their
             Lodgings
             are
             so
             miserable
             ,
             that
             I
             repented
             the
             Curiosity
             that
             engag'd
             me
             in
             so
             unpleasant
             a
             Visit
             .
             The
             
               Captain
               Bassa
            
             lives
             in
             the
             Arsenal
             ,
             with
             all
             the
             Officers
             of
             the
             Admiralty
             ,
             that
             they
             may
             be
             always
             ready
             upon
             the
             Spot
             to
             receive
             his
             Orders
             .
          
           
             Constantinople
             is
             full
             of
             certain
             Houses
             ,
             which
             the
             Poverty
             and
             ill
             Customs
             of
             the
             place
             have
             render'd
             necessary
             ,
             I
             mean
             the
             Hans
             and
             Karavanseraïs
             .
             The
             Hans
             consist
             of
             four
             Sides
             of
             Building
             ,
             enclosing
             a
             large
             square
             Court
             ,
             in
             which
             there
             is
             always
             a
             Fountain
             ,
             either
             in
             the
             midst
             ,
             or
             in
             some
             other
             part
             of
             it
             .
             The
             Walls
             are
             very
             strong
             ,
             and
             the
             Windows
             well
             barr'd
             ,
             to
             secure
             the
             Goods
             that
             are
             laid
             in
             the
             Ware-Houses
             .
             The
             Roof
             consists
             
             of
             little
             Domes
             cover'd
             with
             Lead
             ,
             like
             those
             of
             the
             Mosquees
             .
             These
             Houses
             are
             appointed
             for
             the
             Entertainment
             of
             Foreign
             Merchants
             :
             They
             contain
             only
             two
             Stories
             ,
             divided
             into
             Rooms
             ,
             which
             have
             not
             the
             least
             Communication
             with
             one
             another
             .
             The
             lower
             Story
             is
             compos'd
             of
             Ware-Houses
             for
             the
             Goods
             ,
             and
             the
             upper
             is
             divided
             into
             little
             Chambers
             ,
             where
             the
             Merchants
             Lodge
             ,
             but
             they
             must
             take
             care
             to
             furnish
             themselves
             with
             Beds
             ,
             Pots
             ,
             Dishes
             ,
             &c.
             for
             they
             are
             only
             accommodated
             here
             with
             four
             bare
             Walls
             ;
             and
             after
             they
             have
             provided
             their
             Furniture
             ,
             they
             must
             buy
             their
             Meat
             at
             the
             Market
             or
             Bazar
             ,
             and
             Dress
             it
             themselves
             ,
             since
             otherwise
             they
             might
             starve
             with
             their
             Pockets
             full
             of
             Money
             .
             And
             ,
             in
             the
             general
             ,
             the
             way
             of
             Travelling
             in
             this
             Country
             is
             so
             inconvenient
             and
             troublesome
             ,
             that
             this
             Consideration
             alone
             may
             serve
             to
             discourage
             any
             Man
             that
             loves
             his
             Ease
             from
             visiting
             it
             out
             of
             pure
             Curiosity
             .
             For
             in
             the
             first
             place
             you
             must
             neither
             expect
             Coach
             ,
             Waggon
             ,
             Boat
             ,
             Horses
             ,
             nor
             any
             other
             convenient
             Carriage
             .
             If
             your
             Affairs
             oblige
             you
             to
             undertake
             a
             Journey
             ,
             tho'
             not
             above
             100
             Leagues
             ,
             you
             must
             wait
             three
             Months
             for
             a
             Caravan
             ,
             which
             ,
             after
             all
             ,
             will
             not
             Travel
             above
             four
             Leagues
             a
             day
             ,
             and
             carry
             no
             other
             Provisions
             but
             Rice
             ,
             Bisket
             ,
             and
             Salt
             Beef
             ,
             on
             which
             you
             must
             make
             a
             shift
             to
             live
             ,
             and
             encamp
             every
             Night
             till
             you
             arrive
             at
             your
             Journies
             end
             ,
             where
             ,
             if
             you
             have
             not
             the
             conveniency
             of
             Lodging
             with
             a
             particular
             Friend
             ,
             't
             will
             be
             in
             vain
             to
             enquire
             for
             the
             King's-Head
             ,
             the
             White-Cross
             ,
             or
             the
             Golden-Lyon
             :
             You
             must
             e'en
             creep
             into
             a
             Han
             with
             a
             hundred
             Wretches
             ,
             whose
             Brutishness
             is
             altogether
             insupportable
             ,
             and
             reckon
             your self
             happy
             when
             ye
             can
             find
             such
             a
             Lodging
             ,
             which
             ,
             after
             all
             ,
             is
             better
             than
             Encamping
             with
             the
             Caravan
             .
          
           
             You
             will
             ,
             perhaps
             ,
             think
             it
             impossible
             to
             represent
             a
             more
             frightful
             Idea
             of
             Travelling
             ;
             but
             I
             can
             assure
             
             you
             ,
             that
             all
             these
             Inconveniencies
             are
             not
             comparable
             to
             those
             which
             they
             who
             Travel
             to
             Persia
             ,
             or
             cross
             the
             Desarts
             of
             Arabia
             ,
             must
             resolve
             to
             undergo
             .
             They
             must
             Travel
             six
             Months
             together
             expos'd
             to
             all
             the
             Inconveniencies
             of
             bad
             Weather
             ,
             and
             for
             the
             most
             part
             in
             burning
             Sand
             ,
             where
             there
             is
             neither
             a
             Stalk
             of
             Grass
             ,
             nor
             a
             Spring
             to
             quench
             their
             Thirst
             .
             Besides
             ,
             they
             are
             perpetually
             in
             danger
             of
             being
             surpriz'd
             by
             the
             Arabs
             ,
             who
             rob
             and
             kill
             all
             that
             come
             in
             their
             way
             .
             But
             all
             these
             Incommodities
             may
             be
             either
             more
             easily
             avoided
             or
             supported
             than
             those
             terrible
             Distempers
             that
             usually
             seize
             European
             Travellers
             ,
             who
             are
             not
             accustom'd
             to
             such
             hot
             Climates
             and
             fatiguing
             Journeys
             .
             I
             shall
             take
             this
             occasion
             to
             relate
             a
             Story
             of
             one
             of
             my
             Friends
             who
             return'd
             ,
             not
             long
             ago
             ,
             from
             Poland
             ,
             whither
             he
             went
             about
             the
             beginning
             of
             the
             last
             Year
             by
             the
             King's
             Order
             ,
             in
             the
             quality
             of
             an
             Interpreter
             with
             Monsieur
             
               de
               Chateauneuf's
            
             Chancellor
             ,
             call'd
             Beauchesne
             .
             He
             was
             seiz'd
             by
             the
             way
             with
             a
             violent
             Fever
             and
             Looseness
             ,
             which
             brought
             him
             so
             low
             ,
             and
             made
             him
             so
             troublesome
             to
             the
             Caravan-Bachi
             ,
             or
             Captain
             of
             the
             Caravan
             ,
             that
             his
             Companions
             wou'd
             have
             left
             him
             to
             perish
             without
             assistance
             ,
             if
             that
             Officer
             had
             not
             been
             afraid
             to
             run
             the
             hazard
             of
             offending
             the
             Ambassador
             ;
             yet
             he
             assur'd
             me
             that
             all
             their
             respect
             to
             Monsieur
             Chateauneuf
             cou'd
             not
             have
             protected
             him
             ,
             if
             the
             Fever
             had
             seiz'd
             on
             his
             Head
             ,
             and
             so
             made
             him
             incapable
             of
             sitting
             on
             Horseback
             .
             But
             these
             are
             not
             the
             only
             disadvantages
             which
             Travellers
             suffer
             in
             this
             Country
             ;
             they
             are
             expos'd
             to
             a
             thousand
             other
             vexatious
             Accidents
             ,
             and
             are
             constantly
             plagu'd
             with
             the
             Brutish
             Humours
             of
             the
             Camel-drivers
             .
             We
             are
             wont
             to
             complain
             of
             the
             Sawciness
             of
             Carriers
             and
             Coach-men
             ;
             but
             I
             assure
             you
             they
             wou'd
             be
             reckon'd
             very
             mild
             and
             tractable
             in
             this
             Country
             ,
             where
             every
             Camel-driver
             is
             as
             haughty
             as
             a
             Lord
             ,
             and
             the
             
             poor
             Traveller
             must
             keep
             in
             his
             Post
             under
             pain
             of
             a
             Bastanado
             ,
             which
             he
             must
             take
             very
             patiently
             ,
             for
             if
             he
             shou'd
             offer
             to
             return
             the
             Blow
             ,
             I
             wou'd
             not
             ensure
             his
             Life
             for
             all
             the
             Money
             in
             the
             Caravan
             .
          
           
             I
             thought
             my self
             oblig'd
             to
             give
             you
             a
             faithful
             Account
             of
             all
             these
             Inconveniencies
             ,
             which
             most
             Travellers
             study
             to
             conceal
             ;
             that
             ,
             if
             any
             of
             your
             Friends
             have
             a
             mind
             to
             undertake
             the
             same
             Voyage
             ,
             they
             may
             at
             least
             have
             the
             advantage
             of
             knowing
             what
             they
             are
             to
             expect
             ,
             which
             they
             cou'd
             not
             have
             done
             if
             I
             had
             only
             given
             you
             a
             view
             of
             the
             pleasant
             and
             bright
             side
             of
             a
             Traveller's
             Entertainment
             .
             For
             my
             part
             ,
             I
             must
             confess
             I
             had
             so
             strong
             an
             Inclination
             to
             Travelling
             ,
             that
             I
             know
             not
             whether
             I
             shou'd
             have
             stopt
             on
             this
             side
             China
             ,
             if
             I
             had
             not
             met
             with
             so
             many
             discouraging
             Rubs
             :
             But
             my
             Curiosity
             is
             wonderfully
             abated
             of
             late
             ,
             and
             I
             'm
             so
             perfectly
             cur'd
             of
             my
             gadding
             Humor
             ,
             that
             I
             'm
             resolv'd
             to
             confine
             my self
             hereafter
             to
             Europe
             ,
             and
             to
             Travel
             only
             in
             such
             Places
             where
             I
             may
             find
             ,
             at
             least
             ,
             a
             piece
             of
             Beef
             ,
             and
             a
             pair
             of
             clean
             Sheets
             at
             Night
             .
          
           
             Since
             I
             had
             occasion
             to
             mention
             Beauchesne's
             Journey
             to
             Poland
             ,
             't
             will
             not
             be
             improper
             to
             give
             you
             a
             short
             account
             of
             the
             cause
             of
             it
             .
          
           
             The
             Turks
             being
             informed
             of
             the
             great
             Losses
             which
             the
             French
             sustain'd
             during
             the
             Campaign
             of
             1689.
             and
             of
             the
             ill-fortune
             that
             attended
             His
             Majesty's
             Arms
             in
             Flanders
             ,
             where
             the
             Mareschal
             
               D'
               Humiere
            
             was
             unsuccessful
             in
             the
             only
             attempt
             he
             made
             ,
             began
             to
             give
             less
             credit
             to
             the
             French
             Ambassador's
             smooth
             Harangues
             ,
             and
             to
             desire
             a
             Peace
             with
             the
             Emperour
             .
             The
             Grand
             Visier
             spoke
             of
             it
             several
             times
             to
             Sir
             
               William
               Trumbal
            
             and
             Monsieur
             Collier
             ,
             the
             English
             and
             Dutch
             Ambassadors
             ,
             and
             sent
             Orders
             to
             His
             Master's
             Envoys
             at
             Vienna
             to
             hasten
             the
             desir'd
             Accommodation
             .
             And
             certainly
             the
             
               Grand
               Signior
            
             had
             reason
             to
             wish
             for
             a
             Peace
             ,
             for
             his
             Affairs
             were
             in
             a
             very
             hopeless
             condition
             .
             At
             the
             beginning
             of
             
             the
             Campaign
             his
             Troops
             suffer'd
             a
             considerable
             disadvantage
             in
             Croatia
             ,
             where
             they
             lost
             above
             2000
             Men
             ,
             with
             several
             Ensigns
             ,
             and
             the
             Bassa
             who
             Commanded
             '
             em
             .
             The
             Prince
             of
             Baden
             afterwards
             Routed
             'em
             thrice
             in
             three
             memorable
             Battels
             ,
             and
             they
             saw
             themselves
             expos'd
             to
             all
             the
             Insults
             of
             the
             Imperialists
             ,
             who
             talk'd
             of
             nothing
             less
             than
             of
             Besieging
             
               Constantinople
               .
               Temeswaer
               ,
               Canissa
            
             ,
             and
             Waradin
             ,
             the
             only
             places
             they
             possest
             in
             Hungary
             ,
             were
             closely
             Block'd
             up
             without
             any
             hope
             of
             Relief
             .
             Thus
             't
             was
             plainly
             the
             Interest
             of
             the
             Turks
             to
             accept
             of
             the
             Proposals
             that
             were
             made
             by
             their
             Victorious
             Enemies
             :
             But
             the
             King's
             Interest
             was
             on
             this
             occasion
             directly
             opposite
             to
             that
             of
             his
             Allies
             .
             He
             dreaded
             the
             fatal
             consequences
             of
             such
             a
             Resolution
             and
             left
             no
             means
             unessay'd
             to
             prevent
             its
             taking
             effect
             .
             He
             cajol'd
             the
             
               Grand
               Signior
            
             more
             than
             ever
             ,
             and
             flatter'd
             him
             with
             the
             hope
             of
             making
             a
             separate
             Peace
             with
             the
             Polanders
             ,
             since
             they
             had
             already
             enter'd
             into
             a
             Negotiation
             with
             the
             Tartars
             ,
             and
             had
             sent
             Deputies
             for
             that
             effect
             to
             Count
             Tekeli
             ,
             who
             was
             to
             perform
             the
             Office
             of
             a
             Mediator
             between
             '
             em
             .
             This
             Stratagem
             produc'd
             the
             desir'd
             effect
             ,
             and
             the
             Turk
             was
             the
             more
             easily
             deluded
             ,
             because
             he
             knew
             that
             not
             long
             before
             there
             happen'd
             a
             sort
             of
             Quarrel
             between
             the
             Courts
             of
             Poland
             and
             Vienna
             .
             For
             the
             Emperor
             had
             granted
             his
             Protection
             to
             the
             Moldavians
             ,
             and
             on
             that
             score
             was
             to
             receive
             the
             same
             Tribute
             which
             they
             formerly
             paid
             to
             the
             Turks
             .
             The
             King
             of
             Poland
             pretended
             a
             right
             to
             that
             Province
             ,
             as
             an
             ancient
             Fief
             of
             his
             Crown
             :
             But
             the
             Emperor
             wou'd
             not
             give
             him
             any
             satisfaction
             ,
             and
             even
             refus'd
             to
             answer
             the
             Polish
             Ambassador's
             Remonstrances
             on
             that
             subject
             .
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             the
             French
             and
             Turkish
             Ambassadors
             at
             the
             Court
             of
             Poland
             ,
             were
             not
             idle
             Spectators
             of
             so
             favourable
             a
             Juncture
             ,
             they
             endeavour'd
             to
             foment
             the
             difference
             ,
             and
             Beauchesne
             was
             dispatch'd
             
             thither
             with
             several
             Instructions
             both
             from
             the
             King
             his
             Master
             ,
             and
             from
             the
             
               Grand
               Visier
            
             .
             But
             all
             their
             Negotiations
             were
             unsuccessful
             ,
             for
             they
             cou'd
             not
             prevail
             with
             the
             King
             of
             Poland
             to
             break
             his
             Confederacy
             with
             the
             Emperor
             .
          
           
             I
             will
             not
             trouble
             you
             with
             an
             Apology
             for
             the
             length
             of
             this
             digression
             ,
             into
             which
             the
             way
             of
             Travelling
             in
             Turkey
             has
             insensibly
             engag'd
             me
             .
             For
             since
             at
             the
             beginning
             of
             our
             Correspondence
             I
             resolv'd
             to
             entertain
             you
             from
             time
             to
             time
             with
             a
             familiar
             account
             ,
             not
             only
             of
             my
             own
             Observations
             ,
             but
             of
             what
             I
             shou'd
             learn
             from
             others
             ;
             I
             see
             no
             reason
             why
             the
             prosecution
             of
             that
             design
             shou'd
             oblige
             me
             to
             a
             nice
             observance
             of
             an
             exact
             and
             regular
             Method
             .
          
           
             I
             have
             already
             told
             you
             ,
             that
             there
             are
             two
             sorts
             of
             
               Public
               Houses
            
             in
             Constantinople
             ;
             the
             Hans
             ,
             and
             the
             Karavanseraïs
             :
             And
             I
             shall
             take
             this
             occasion
             to
             add
             a
             short
             description
             of
             the
             Second
             to
             the
             larger
             account
             I
             gave
             you
             of
             the
             First
             .
          
           
             They
             are
             both
             built
             after
             the
             same
             manner
             ,
             only
             the
             Hans
             are
             enclos'd
             with
             good
             thick
             Walls
             ,
             whereas
             the
             Stone-work
             in
             the
             Karavanseraïs
             reaches
             no
             higher
             than
             the
             first
             or
             lower
             Story
             ,
             the
             second
             being
             built
             of
             Wood
             ,
             and
             cover'd
             with
             Bricks
             .
             They
             have
             only
             one
             Gate
             ,
             as
             well
             as
             the
             Hans
             ,
             and
             serve
             to
             lodge
             poor
             Strangers
             ,
             and
             the
             Servants
             of
             the
             Caravans
             ;
             for
             which
             reason
             they
             are
             call'd
             Karavanseraï
             ,
             or
             the
             Houses
             of
             the
             Caravans
             .
             All
             Indigent
             Persons
             resort
             to
             'em
             ,
             paying
             from
             half
             a
             Crown
             ,
             to
             a
             Crown
             a
             Month
             ,
             according
             to
             the
             fineness
             of
             the
             House
             ,
             or
             the
             advantages
             of
             its
             Situation
             .
          
           
             After
             we
             had
             taken
             a
             slight
             view
             of
             several
             of
             these
             Houses
             ,
             we
             went
             to
             the
             
               Grand
               Signior's
               Seraglio
            
             ,
             which
             I
             cannot
             describe
             exactly
             ,
             since
             I
             was
             not
             suffer'd
             to
             go
             further
             than
             the
             second
             Court
             ,
             tho'
             I
             was
             accompany'd
             by
             an
             Aga
             of
             the
             Janisaries
             ,
             to
             
             whom
             I
             had
             been
             effectually
             recommended
             ,
             and
             without
             whose
             assistance
             I
             must
             have
             contented
             my self
             with
             a
             view
             of
             the
             first
             .
             The
             Seraglio
             is
             built
             on
             a
             Point
             of
             Land
             that
             juts
             out
             into
             the
             Sea
             ,
             which
             I
             had
             occasion
             to
             mention
             when
             I
             describ'd
             the
             situation
             of
             the
             City
             .
             'T
             is
             surrounded
             with
             high
             Walls
             of
             a
             greyish
             Stone
             ,
             with
             a
             Parapet
             at
             the
             top
             ,
             and
             Battlements
             like
             those
             of
             the
             City
             .
             It
             contains
             a
             vast
             extent
             of
             Ground
             ,
             almost
             four
             Miles
             in
             compass
             ,
             the
             greatest
             part
             of
             which
             is
             taken
             up
             with
             Gardens
             .
             The
             Structure
             is
             irregular
             ,
             and
             very
             unsutable
             to
             the
             boasted
             Magnificence
             of
             its
             Master
             :
             For
             't
             is
             only
             a
             vast
             heap
             of
             Buildings
             not
             unlike
             to
             some
             old
             Castles
             in
             Christendom
             ;
             and
             you
             see
             nothing
             on
             the
             outside
             but
             a
             confus'd
             medley
             of
             Houses
             ,
             adorn'd
             with
             those
             little
             gilt
             Spires
             and
             Globes
             I
             mention'd
             in
             my
             last
             ,
             in
             which
             all
             its
             Beauty
             consists
             .
             The
             rest
             of
             the
             Building
             is
             so
             mean
             ,
             that
             a
             Man
             wou'd
             never
             imagine
             it
             to
             be
             the
             Seraglio
             ,
             that
             admir'd
             Palace
             of
             the
             
               Grand
               Signior
            
             .
             The
             principal
             Entry
             is
             near
             
               Sancta
               Sophia
            
             ,
             and
             exactly
             resembles
             the
             Gate
             of
             an
             old
             paltry
             Town
             ,
             without
             either
             Architecture
             or
             Ornament
             :
             Yet
             't
             is
             carefully
             guarded
             by
             the
             Capigi
             ,
             who
             keep
             their
             Court
             of
             Guard
             under
             it
             ,
             and
             sit
             on
             Benches
             of
             Stone
             .
             This
             Gate
             led
             us
             into
             a
             large
             Court
             ,
             where
             on
             the
             right
             hand
             we
             observ'd
             the
             Apartments
             for
             the
             Sick
             ,
             with
             large
             Matted
             
             Sopha's
             along
             the
             Walls
             ,
             where
             the
             Diseas'd
             Persons
             are
             plac'd
             ,
             and
             lodg'd
             as
             poorly
             as
             if
             they
             were
             in
             a
             Hospital
             .
             On
             the
             left
             hand
             are
             Magazines
             containing
             Arms
             for
             a
             Thousand
             Men
             ,
             that
             in
             case
             of
             necessity
             the
             
               Grand
               Signior
            
             may
             arm
             his
             Domestic
             Servants
             for
             the
             security
             of
             his
             Person
             .
             But
             notwithstanding
             this
             Precaution
             ,
             Ibrahim
             was
             Strangled
             ,
             Mahomet
             Dethron'd
             ,
             and
             Solyman
             Poison'd
             ,
             not
             to
             mention
             the
             Tragical
             Ends
             of
             so
             many
             other
             Princes
             of
             the
             same
             Line
             ,
             whose
             Guards
             cou'd
             not
             protect
             'em
             from
             the
             fury
             of
             a
             Seditious
             
             Multitude
             .
             From
             this
             Court
             we
             pass'd
             into
             another
             ,
             border'd
             with
             two
             large
             Portico's
             .
             The
             
               Grand
               Signior's
            
             Kitchens
             are
             on
             one
             side
             ,
             which
             are
             not
             kept
             very
             hot
             at
             present
             ,
             since
             he
             chuses
             to
             reside
             at
             Adrianople
             :
             Yet
             I
             observ'd
             some
             Persons
             preparing
             
               Pilo
               ,
               Pasties
            
             ,
             and
             Fish
             ,
             for
             the
             Women
             in
             the
             old
             Seraglio
             .
             On
             the
             other
             Side
             are
             the
             Stables
             ,
             where
             there
             is
             Room
             and
             Accommodation
             for
             a
             hundred
             Horses
             .
             If
             your
             Curiosity
             be
             not
             satisfy'd
             with
             so
             imperfect
             an
             Account
             of
             so
             famous
             a
             Place
             ,
             you
             must
             consult
             those
             who
             were
             permitted
             to
             enter
             farther
             .
          
           
             Very
             near
             this
             Seraglio
             ,
             and
             within
             the
             same
             Enclosure
             ,
             there
             is
             another
             Edifice
             ,
             commonly
             call'd
             
               The
               Old
               Seraglio
            
             .
             'T
             was
             erected
             by
             one
             who
             was
             no
             Lover
             of
             ill-contriv'd
             Structures
             ,
             I
             mean
             
               Constantine
               the
               Great
            
             ;
             and
             yet
             't
             is
             certainly
             a
             very
             ugly
             Mass
             of
             Building
             ,
             surrounded
             with
             Walls
             of
             an
             unusual
             Heighth
             ,
             without
             any
             Windows
             on
             the
             Outside
             .
             I
             will
             not
             undertake
             to
             justifie
             the
             Design
             of
             the
             Founder
             ,
             tho'
             we
             may
             be
             allow'd
             to
             suppose
             that
             he
             had
             some
             secret
             Reasons
             for
             contriving
             it
             after
             this
             Manner
             .
             Besides
             I
             only
             saw
             the
             Back
             of
             it
             ,
             and
             perhaps
             the
             Front
             may
             be
             more
             regularly
             built
             .
             Here
             the
             reigning
             Sultan
             shuts
             up
             the
             Wives
             of
             his
             Predecessours
             ,
             who
             at
             their
             Entrance
             into
             this
             Place
             may
             bid
             adieu
             to
             all
             the
             Pleasures
             of
             this
             Life
             .
          
           
             The
             present
             Sultan's
             Wives
             are
             lodg'd
             in
             a
             Third
             Seraglio
             ,
             which
             is
             join'd
             so
             close
             to
             that
             of
             the
             
               Grand
               Signior
            
             ,
             that
             he
             may
             pass
             from
             one
             to
             the
             other
             without
             exposing
             himself
             to
             the
             Rain
             .
             I
             need
             not
             tell
             you
             with
             what
             severity
             they
             are
             guarded
             by
             the
             white
             and
             black
             Eunuchs
             ,
             who
             never
             permit
             'em
             to
             enjoy
             the
             least
             Shadow
             of
             Liberty
             .
             All
             the
             Relations
             of
             Travellers
             are
             full
             of
             Stories
             and
             Reflexions
             on
             this
             Subject
             ,
             and
             therefore
             instead
             of
             repeating
             the
             Observations
             of
             others
             ,
             I
             shall
             only
             add
             ,
             that
             't
             is
             a
             Capital
             
             Crime
             to
             look
             upon
             one
             of
             these
             Women
             .
             I
             saw
             a
             Turk
             at
             Galata
             whose
             Father
             was
             strangl'd
             for
             so
             dangerous
             a
             piece
             of
             Curiosity
             ,
             under
             the
             Reign
             of
             Amurath
             ,
             whose
             Memory
             will
             not
             be
             easily
             forgotten
             in
             the
             Places
             that
             were
             subject
             to
             his
             Dominion
             ;
             for
             he
             was
             certainly
             one
             of
             the
             severest
             and
             most
             vigilant
             Princes
             in
             the
             World.
             'T
             was
             his
             daily
             Custom
             to
             walk
             in
             Disguise
             thro'
             the
             City
             ,
             that
             he
             might
             be
             an
             Eye-witness
             of
             the
             Care
             that
             was
             taken
             to
             put
             the
             Laws
             in
             Execution
             ;
             and
             he
             seldom
             or
             never
             walk'd
             the
             Rounds
             without
             leaving
             some
             headless
             Monuments
             of
             his
             Justice
             :
             besides
             he
             frequently
             observ'd
             what
             was
             done
             in
             the
             City
             from
             his
             Seraglio
             ,
             by
             the
             help
             of
             some
             excellent
             Prospective-Glasses
             ,
             with
             which
             the
             Venetians
             had
             presented
             him
             .
             One
             day
             as
             he
             was
             making
             his
             usual
             .
             Observations
             ,
             he
             perceiv'd
             a
             Man
             in
             Pera
             ,
             who
             had
             also
             a
             Prospective-Glass
             ,
             and
             was
             viewing
             the
             Sultanesses
             ,
             who
             were
             walking
             in
             the
             Garden
             .
             Immediately
             he
             call'd
             a
             Capigi
             ,
             and
             commanded
             him
             to
             go
             with
             four
             Mutes
             to
             such
             a
             House
             ,
             and
             hang
             a
             Man
             ,
             whom
             he
             describ'd
             ,
             at
             the
             Window
             ;
             which
             the
             Capigi
             executed
             ,
             and
             Amurath
             saw
             him
             and
             was
             satisfy'd
             .
          
           
             From
             the
             Account
             I
             have
             given
             you
             of
             the
             
             Sultan's
             Palace
             ,
             you
             may
             reasonably
             conclude
             that
             the
             great
             Officers
             of
             the
             Empire
             are
             but
             meanly
             lodg'd
             .
             Most
             of
             their
             Houses
             are
             inclos'd
             in
             a
             kind
             of
             Park
             ,
             which
             contains
             a
             Garden
             ,
             and
             a
             large
             Court
             border'd
             with
             Stables
             on
             one
             side
             ,
             and
             Kitchens
             on
             the
             other
             .
             The
             finest
             I
             have
             yet
             seen
             is
             that
             of
             
               Haly
               Bassa
               ,
               Kaimacan
            
             of
             Constantinople
             ,
             whither
             I
             attended
             the
             Ambassadour
             ,
             when
             he
             receiv'd
             the
             first
             Audience
             of
             that
             Minister
             ,
             which
             was
             perform'd
             with
             the
             following
             Ceremonies
             .
          
           
             
               The
               Audience
               which
               the
               Caimakan
               of
               Constantinople
               gave
               to
               M
               
               r.
               de
               Chateau-neuf
               the
               French
               Ambassador
               P.
               169
            
          
           
             Then
             putting
             some
             odoriferous
             Matter
             into
             a
             Censer
             ,
             they
             perfum'd
             his
             Head
             and
             Cloaths
             ,
             holding
             a
             large
             Cloth
             or
             Napkin
             above
             him
             to
             keep
             the
             Fumes
             from
             evaporating
             .
             After
             this
             Ceremony
             was
             
             over
             ,
             they
             brought
             
               Coffee
               ,
               Sherbet
            
             ,
             and
             at
             last
             the
             usual
             Presents
             ,
             consisting
             of
             
               Twenty
               five
               Vests
            
             ,
             which
             were
             laid
             before
             the
             Kaimacan
             .
             The
             first
             was
             for
             the
             Ambassadour
             ,
             and
             the
             rest
             for
             his
             twenty
             four
             Attendants
             ,
             who
             were
             call'd
             in
             Order
             by
             his
             Steward
             .
          
           
             According
             as
             our
             Names
             were
             call'd
             ,
             we
             stept
             forwards
             to
             receive
             the
             Vests
             from
             one
             of
             the
             
             Kaimacan's
             Officers
             ,
             who
             first
             spread
             it
             before
             the
             Ambassadour
             ,
             and
             then
             put
             it
             on
             our
             Shoulders
             .
             These
             Vests
             are
             such
             inconsiderable
             Trifles
             ,
             that
             the
             presenting
             of
             'em
             seems
             rather
             an
             Affront
             than
             a
             Mark
             of
             Esteem
             ;
             for
             they
             are
             not
             worth
             above
             three
             Half-Crowns
             a-piece
             .
             They
             are
             made
             of
             Cotton
             ,
             branch'd
             with
             a
             little
             Silk
             of
             several
             Colours
             ,
             after
             a
             very
             odd
             and
             phantastical
             Manner
             .
             The
             
             Ambassadour's
             was
             not
             finer
             than
             the
             rest
             ,
             only
             spangl'd
             here
             and
             there
             with
             a
             little
             paltry
             Gold.
             I
             'm
             inform'd
             that
             this
             Custom
             of
             presenting
             Vests
             is
             an
             usual
             Ceremony
             among
             the
             Turks
             ,
             proceeding
             from
             their
             extream
             Desire
             of
             Presents
             ,
             which
             is
             the
             usual
             Foundation
             of
             their
             Kindness
             and
             Affection
             :
             for
             't
             wou'd
             be
             reckon'd
             as
             ridiculous
             ,
             as
             't
             is
             in
             vain
             ,
             to
             endeavour
             to
             acquire
             their
             Friendship
             ,
             or
             convince
             'em
             of
             the
             Sincerity
             of
             our
             Love
             by
             Protestations
             and
             other
             Marks
             of
             Affection
             ,
             if
             they
             be
             not
             accompany'd
             with
             Presents
             .
             I
             can
             assure
             you
             that
             all
             my
             Turkish
             Acquaintances
             are
             of
             the
             same
             Humour
             :
             and
             this
             Custom
             prevails
             so
             universally
             that
             every
             one
             is
             oblig'd
             to
             comply
             with
             it
             .
          
           
             After
             we
             had
             receiv'd
             our
             Vests
             ,
             his
             Excellency
             retir'd
             with
             the
             Kaimacan
             to
             a
             private
             Chamber
             ,
             to
             discourse
             of
             secret
             Affairs
             .
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             we
             had
             leisure
             to
             view
             the
             Apartments
             of
             the
             House
             ,
             which
             were
             all
             open'd
             to
             us
             ;
             tho'
             we
             might
             have
             contented
             our selves
             with
             the
             Sight
             of
             one
             ,
             since
             there
             is
             no
             difference
             between
             'em
             ;
             and
             therefore
             't
             will
             be
             an
             easie
             Task
             to
             gratifie
             your
             Curiosity
             with
             a
             Description
             of
             '
             em
             .
             You
             must
             not
             expect
             
             a
             long
             Catalogue
             of
             rare
             Pictures
             ,
             magnificent
             Beds
             ,
             large
             Looking-Glasses
             ,
             silver
             Tables
             ,
             curious
             Hangings
             ,
             and
             other
             rich
             Furniture
             :
             for
             there
             are
             no
             such
             Ornaments
             in
             the
             House
             .
             Four
             bare
             Walls
             ,
             a
             Plafond
             or
             Cieling
             ,
             and
             a
             Sopha
             are
             all
             the
             Riches
             and
             all
             the
             Beauty
             of
             their
             Rooms
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             their
             Plafonds
             are
             very
             fine
             ,
             and
             painted
             all
             over
             with
             
               Cochineel
               ,
               Gold
            
             ,
             and
             Azure
             :
             their
             way
             of
             designing
             is
             peculiar
             to
             themselves
             ,
             but
             its
             Oddness
             does
             not
             make
             it
             less
             pleasant
             ;
             'T
             is
             a
             kind
             of
             Moresco
             ,
             the
             Figures
             entering
             into
             one
             another
             ,
             and
             appearing
             the
             same
             on
             all
             sides
             ;
             and
             it
             must
             be
             acknowledg'd
             that
             the
             Turks
             have
             very
             fruitful
             Inventions
             ,
             for
             ,
             I
             believe
             ,
             there
             are
             a
             Million
             of
             several
             Sorts
             of
             Figures
             .
             The
             middle
             of
             the
             Plafond
             is
             usually
             richer
             than
             the
             rest
             ,
             both
             in
             Gilding
             and
             Painting
             ;
             but
             't
             is
             impossible
             to
             make
             you
             comprehend
             either
             of
             'em
             ,
             unless
             you
             had
             seen
             something
             of
             a
             like
             Nature
             ,
             which
             ,
             I
             believe
             ,
             you
             never
             did
             ,
             since
             there
             is
             not
             one
             Room
             in
             France
             thus
             adorn'd
             .
             The
             Walls
             are
             also
             cover'd
             with
             the
             same
             sort
             of
             Paint
             instead
             of
             Hangings
             :
             and
             as
             for
             the
             Sopha
             ,
             I
             cannot
             represent
             it
             better
             than
             as
             a
             Bench
             about
             two
             Foot
             high
             ,
             reaching
             from
             one
             end
             of
             the
             Chamber
             to
             the
             other
             ,
             on
             the
             Side
             next
             the
             Street
             ,
             under
             the
             Windows
             ,
             which
             begin
             a
             Foot
             higher
             in
             the
             Wall
             :
             't
             is
             always
             between
             ten
             and
             eleven
             Foot
             broad
             ,
             and
             cover'd
             with
             Turkish
             or
             Persian
             Tapestry
             ;
             besides
             which
             there
             are
             Mats
             laid
             along
             the
             Wall
             ,
             4
             or
             5
             foot
             broad
             ,
             cover'd
             with
             Cloth
             or
             Velvet
             ,
             and
             over
             these
             there
             are
             large
             Cushions
             ,
             stuff'd
             with
             Hair
             or
             Wooll
             .
             These
             Cushions
             in
             great
             Mens
             Houses
             are
             either
             curiously
             embroider'd
             ,
             or
             made
             of
             a
             rich
             Cloth
             of
             Gold
             :
             and
             't
             is
             here
             that
             the
             Turks
             sit
             night
             and
             day
             cross-legg'd
             like
             Taylors
             ,
             smoaking
             Tabacco
             ,
             and
             drinking
             Coffee
             ,
             without
             any
             other
             Diversion
             than
             playing
             with
             Shells
             ,
             and
             sometimes
             a
             Game
             at
             Tric-trac
             ,
             or
             the
             Goose
             .
             But
             since
             I
             shall
             have
             occasion
             hereafter
             to
             
             speak
             of
             their
             Recreations
             ,
             I
             shall
             at
             present
             only
             give
             you
             an
             Account
             of
             their
             Houses
             .
          
           
             While
             the
             Ambassadour
             was
             discoursing
             in
             private
             with
             the
             Kaimacan
             ,
             I
             went
             down
             to
             the
             Garden
             ,
             which
             is
             not
             above
             100
             Paces
             long
             ,
             and
             60
             broad
             :
             the
             Walks
             are
             gravell'd
             ,
             border'd
             in
             some
             places
             with
             Orange-Trees
             ,
             and
             in
             others
             with
             Fruit-Trees
             .
             The
             square
             Beds
             in
             the
             Garden
             are
             not
             cut
             and
             border'd
             like
             our
             Flower-Plots
             ,
             but
             only
             separated
             with
             Divisions
             ,
             and
             fill'd
             with
             Flowers
             ,
             of
             which
             the
             Turks
             are
             very
             curious
             .
             In
             the
             Middle
             there
             is
             a
             pretty
             large
             Bason
             of
             Water
             ,
             from
             the
             Centre
             of
             which
             there
             rises
             a
             little
             Marble
             Spire
             ,
             gilt
             and
             painted
             after
             the
             Turkish
             Manner
             ,
             and
             casting
             forth
             Water
             thro'
             four
             Pipes
             .
             There
             are
             also
             two
             other
             Basons
             at
             each
             End
             of
             the
             Garden
             ,
             which
             are
             more
             remarkable
             for
             the
             peculiar
             Oddness
             of
             their
             Structure
             ,
             than
             for
             their
             Beauty
             .
             They
             are
             fram'd
             almost
             like
             Centinels
             woodden
             Boxes
             ,
             only
             they
             are
             not
             quite
             so
             deep
             ,
             and
             there
             is
             a
             kind
             of
             Chapiter
             on
             the
             Top
             ,
             adorn'd
             with
             Gilding
             and
             Figures
             .
             The
             Inside
             is
             cut
             into
             the
             Form
             of
             Scallop-Shells
             ,
             on
             which
             the
             Water
             falling
             makes
             a
             great
             number
             of
             little
             Cascades
             that
             run
             into
             a
             Bason
             ,
             and
             form
             another
             large
             Cascade
             ,
             the
             Water
             of
             which
             is
             receiv'd
             into
             a
             Sort
             of
             Tub
             or
             Vat
             ,
             and
             from
             thence
             thro'
             several
             Holes
             ,
             runs
             into
             little
             Canals
             about
             the
             Breadth
             of
             four
             Fingers
             ,
             cut
             out
             of
             a
             large
             Marble
             Pavement
             that
             reaches
             from
             these
             Fountains
             to
             the
             Bason
             in
             the
             Middle
             of
             the
             Garden
             .
             The
             Pavement
             was
             contriv'd
             on
             purpose
             for
             the
             Conveniency
             of
             cutting
             out
             these
             little
             winding
             Canals
             ,
             which
             forming
             a
             vast
             number
             of
             regular
             and
             very
             pleasant
             Figures
             ,
             fall
             at
             last
             into
             the
             great
             Bason
             .
             This
             ,
             Sir
             ,
             is
             the
             best
             Account
             I
             can
             give
             you
             of
             the
             
             Kaimacan's
             Garden
             ,
             which
             may
             serve
             for
             all
             the
             rest
             I
             have
             hitherto
             had
             occasion
             to
             see
             ,
             since
             there
             is
             no
             great
             Difference
             between
             '
             em
             .
             As
             
             for
             the
             House
             ,
             't
             is
             a
             great
             Mass
             of
             Building
             ,
             the
             Front
             consisting
             of
             a
             high
             and
             broad
             Stair-Case
             divided
             by
             two
             Galleries
             that
             reach
             from
             one
             end
             of
             the
             House
             to
             the
             other
             ;
             and
             the
             whole
             is
             dawb'd
             over
             very
             coarsly
             with
             a
             sort
             of
             Red
             and
             Green
             Paint
             .
             Under
             the
             Stair-Case
             there
             is
             a
             large
             square
             Gate
             ,
             that
             leads
             into
             a
             Court
             surrounded
             with
             Galleries
             like
             the
             first
             ,
             and
             supported
             with
             woodden
             Pillars
             .
             Here
             the
             Kaimacan's
             Servants
             lodge
             ,
             whose
             number
             may
             amount
             to
             fifty
             or
             sixty
             ,
             all
             cloath'd
             after
             the
             same
             manner
             ,
             with
             a
             Cafetan
             or
             white
             Coat
             ,
             that
             covers
             'em
             from
             Head
             to
             Foot.
             From
             thence
             I
             went
             to
             view
             the
             Stables
             ,
             which
             in
             this
             Country
             is
             usually
             the
             best
             furnish'd
             part
             of
             the
             House
             ;
             and
             in
             these
             I
             observ'd
             forty
             good
             Horses
             .
             After
             I
             had
             satisfi'd
             my
             Curiosity
             with
             a
             View
             of
             all
             that
             was
             remarkable
             below
             ,
             I
             went
             up
             again
             to
             my
             Companions
             ,
             and
             sate
             drinking
             Sherbet
             ,
             till
             the
             Ambassadour
             came
             out
             .
             The
             Kiaia
             accompany'd
             him
             to
             the
             Foot
             of
             the
             Stairs
             ,
             where
             he
             receiv'd
             him
             at
             his
             coming
             ,
             with
             the
             same
             Officers
             that
             supported
             him
             under
             the
             Arms
             ;
             but
             the
             Kaimacan
             came
             not
             out
             of
             his
             Chamber
             ,
             which
             in
             my
             Opinion
             was
             a
             little
             too
             stately
             for
             a
             Person
             of
             his
             Character
             .
             The
             Ambassadour
             did
             not
             pull
             off
             his
             Hat
             ,
             either
             at
             his
             coming
             in
             or
             going
             out
             :
             not
             that
             he
             slighted
             the
             Kaimacan
             ,
             but
             out
             of
             pure
             Compliance
             to
             the
             Manners
             of
             the
             Turks
             ,
             who
             never
             uncover
             their
             Heads
             before
             Persons
             for
             whom
             they
             have
             the
             least
             Respect
             .
             I
             had
             forgot
             to
             tell
             you
             ,
             that
             when
             he
             enter'd
             the
             Chamber
             all
             the
             Kaimacan's
             Servants
             bellow'd
             out
             thrice
             ,
             
               Is
               alla
               Malec
               allec
               is
               alla
               :
            
             and
             at
             his
             Departure
             he
             was
             saluted
             with
             another
             Hollow
             ;
             which
             is
             the
             usual
             Welcome
             and
             Farewell
             of
             the
             Turks
             to
             Persons
             whom
             they
             intend
             to
             treat
             with
             particular
             Marks
             of
             Honour
             .
             I
             am
             ,
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
             
               Your
               &c.
               
            
             
               Constantinople
               ,
               
                 Aug.
                 1690.
                 
              
            
          
        
         
           
           
             LETTER
             XIV
             .
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
          
           
             MY
             unexpected
             stay
             in
             this
             City
             has
             procur'd
             me
             the
             splendid
             ,
             or
             rather
             the
             mortifying
             sight
             of
             Sultan
             Solyman's
             Triumphant
             Entry
             into
             Constantinople
             ,
             at
             the
             end
             of
             so
             successful
             a
             Campaign
             .
             The
             Turks
             are
             so
             puff'd
             up
             with
             the
             advantageous
             Progress
             of
             their
             Arms
             this
             Summer
             ,
             and
             both
             their
             Contempt
             and
             Hatred
             of
             the
             Imperialists
             are
             so
             extreamly
             heighten'd
             that
             they
             look
             upon
             'em
             as
             
               dead
               Doggs
            
             ,
             ripe
             for
             destruction
             ,
             and
             flatter
             themselves
             with
             the
             Chimerical
             Hope
             of
             seeing
             Vienna
             once
             again
             Besieg'd
             the
             next
             Campaign
             .
             The
             sight
             of
             so
             great
             a
             quantity
             of
             Booty
             which
             was
             brought
             from
             Hungary
             ,
             and
             is
             sold
             almost
             for
             nothing
             in
             this
             City
             ,
             has
             swoln
             their
             Pride
             to
             such
             a
             height
             ,
             that
             they
             usually
             treat
             Christians
             with
             intolerable
             Insolence
             ,
             except
             the
             French
             ,
             whom
             they
             call
             their
             Friends
             and
             Allies
             .
             When
             they
             accidentally
             meet
             a
             Frank
             ,
             whom
             they
             know
             not
             ,
             their
             first
             Question
             is
             ,
             
               What
               Country-man
               are
               you
            
             ?
             and
             if
             he
             answers
             ,
          
           
             *
             
               Sono
               Francese
            
             ,
             immediately
             they
             embrace
             him
             ,
             and
             patting
             him
             gently
             on
             the
             Shoulder
             ,
             reply
             ,
             †
             
               Siamo
               Fratelli
            
             .
          
           
             The
             Inhabitants
             of
             this
             City
             have
             not
             seen
             these
             many
             Years
             a
             more
             Magnificent
             Ceremony
             than
             the
             late
             Entry
             of
             the
             
               Grand
               Signior
            
             ,
             which
             was
             made
             in
             the
             following
             Order
             :
             First
             march'd
             200
             Capigi
             ,
             or
             Keepers
             of
             the
             Grand
             Signior's
             Gate
             ,
             with
             tapering
             Caps
             ,
             and
             a
             Cone
             ,
             or
             sharp-pointed
             piece
             of
             Cloth
             hanging
             down
             to
             their
             Noses
             ;
             they
             were
             Commanded
             by
             the
             Capigi-Bachi
             .
             After
             'em
             came
             the
             
             Sorlaques
             ,
             or
             
               Foot-Guards
               of
               the
               Body
            
             ,
             consisting
             of
             ,
             old
             pick'd
             Soldiers
             who
             expect
             Preferment
             :
             They
             wore
             tuck'd
             up
             Gowns
             ,
             carrying
             their
             Bows
             in
             their
             Left-hand
             ,
             and
             Quivers
             on
             their
             Shoulders
             :
             Their
             Caps
             were
             of
             Cloth
             ,
             like
             those
             of
             the
             Capigi
             ,
             but
             instead
             of
             a
             Cone
             they
             were
             only
             adorn'd
             with
             Plumes
             of
             Feathers
             .
             A
             Thousand
             Janisaries
             march'd
             after
             'em
             ,
             Clad
             in
             Red
             ,
             with
             Zercola's
             on
             their
             Head
             ,
             made
             of
             a
             large
             piece
             of
             Felt
             a
             Foot
             broad
             ,
             which
             falls
             back
             on
             their
             Shoulders
             ,
             with
             a
             Cone
             or
             sharp
             point
             like
             that
             of
             the
             Capigi
             :
             Every
             one
             of
             'em
             carri'd
             a
             great
             Reed
             or
             Cane
             ,
             eight
             foot
             long
             and
             three
             round
             ,
             with
             an
             Ivory
             Ball
             on
             the
             top
             ,
             and
             their
             Aga
             walk'd
             before
             '
             em
             .
          
           
             The
             Janisaries
             were
             follow'd
             by
             500
             
             Chiauox's
             which
             are
             
               Horse
               Guards
            
             ,
             the
             last
             of
             'em
             carrying
             the
             Standards
             and
             Colours
             that
             were
             taken
             from
             the
             Imperialists
             .
             They
             had
             large
             Caps
             or
             Turbants
             above
             two
             Foot
             in
             circumference
             :
             They
             were
             very
             well
             Mounted
             ,
             and
             led
             by
             the
             Chiaoux-Bachi
             .
             After
             'em
             march'd
             the
             
             Mutefaraca's
             ,
             who
             are
             a
             sort
             of
             Officers
             that
             never
             go
             to
             the
             War
             ,
             almost
             like
             our
             Reformades
             .
             Next
             came
             the
             
               Kisler
               Aga
            
             ,
             accompani'd
             by
             the
             White
             and
             
               Black
               Eunuchs
            
             ,
             who
             walk'd
             on
             each
             side
             of
             him
             ,
             to
             Guard
             the
             Sultanesses
             ,
             who
             rode
             in
             eight
             very
             fine
             Coaches
             ,
             but
             cou'd
             not
             be
             seen
             by
             reason
             of
             a
             piece
             of
             Silk
             with
             which
             the
             Glasses
             were
             cover'd
             .
          
           
             After
             them
             appear'd
             the
             unfortunate
             Prince
             Mahomet
             IV.
             who
             ,
             with
             his
             two
             Sons
             ,
             was
             plac'd
             in
             a
             Coach
             close
             barr'd
             like
             a
             Prison-Window
             ,
             and
             guarded
             by
             twelve
             
             Chiaoux's
             .
             Immediately
             after
             came
             the
             
             Sultan's
             Great
             Officers
             ,
             to
             the
             number
             of
             above
             200
             Persons
             ,
             all
             richly
             Cloath'd
             in
             Embroider'd
             Vests
             ,
             and
             Turbants
             ,
             enrich'd
             with
             precious
             Stones
             :
             Their
             Horses
             were
             also
             adorn'd
             with
             Silver
             Bridles
             ,
             and
             very
             fine
             Foot
             Cloaths
             ,
             either
             Embroider'd
             ,
             or
             of
             Cloth
             of
             Gold
             ,
             trailing
             on
             the
             Ground
             .
          
           
           
             The
             seven
             
               Visiers
               of
               the
               Bench
            
             brought
             up
             the
             Rear
             of
             this
             Magnificent
             Troop
             ,
             and
             were
             follow'd
             by
             the
             Mufti
             ,
             who
             was
             mounted
             on
             a
             white
             Horse
             (
             but
             not
             so
             stately
             as
             the
             rest
             )
             and
             attended
             by
             four
             Officers
             on
             Foot.
             Then
             came
             the
             Selictar
             carrying
             the
             Grand
             Signior's
             Sword
             bare
             .
             At
             last
             the
             Sultan
             himself
             appear'd
             seated
             in
             a
             triumphal
             Chariot
             ,
             open
             on
             all
             Sides
             ,
             and
             cover'd
             all
             over
             with
             silver-gilt
             Plates
             ,
             enrich'd
             with
             counterfeit
             Jewels
             ,
             which
             nevertheless
             cast
             a
             great
             Splendour
             .
             The
             Chariot
             was
             drawn
             by
             Eight
             spotted
             Horses
             ,
             cover'd
             with
             Red
             Velvet
             ,
             embroider'd
             with
             Gold
             ,
             and
             adorn'd
             with
             gilt
             Buckles
             .
             The
             Inside
             of
             the
             Chariot
             was
             lin'd
             with
             Velvet
             of
             the
             same
             Colour
             ,
             embroider'd
             also
             with
             Gold
             ;
             and
             in
             it
             there
             was
             a
             little
             Sopha
             ,
             with
             a
             large
             Cushion
             of
             a
             very
             rich
             Stuff
             ,
             on
             which
             the
             Sultan
             sate
             .
             This
             place
             of
             the
             Chariot
             was
             cover'd
             with
             a
             very
             rich
             Canopy
             ,
             like
             that
             of
             a
             Coach
             ,
             and
             rais'd
             so
             high
             ,
             that
             the
             
               Grand
               Signior
            
             might
             be
             easily
             seen
             by
             the
             Spectatours
             .
             He
             is
             about
             fifty
             Years
             old
             ,
             of
             a
             severe
             Aspect
             ,
             and
             no
             very
             fine
             Shape
             .
             He
             wore
             a
             large
             Turbant
             ,
             almost
             like
             that
             of
             the
             
             Chiaoux's
             ,
             adorn'd
             with
             two
             very
             magnificent
             Aigrets
             ,
             enrich'd
             with
             precious
             Stones
             :
             His
             Vest
             was
             of
             a
             very
             fine
             Stuff
             adorn'd
             with
             Pearls
             ,
             but
             much
             inferiour
             to
             the
             Coat
             that
             cost
             Fifteen
             Millions
             ,
             which
             the
             King
             puts
             on
             when
             he
             receives
             Ambassadours
             .
             About
             and
             after
             the
             Chair
             march'd
             a
             hundred
             Aga's
             on
             Foot
             ,
             with
             their
             Officers
             and
             Commanders
             ;
             and
             in
             the
             last
             place
             came
             Three
             hundred
             Spahi's
             .
          
           
             At
             Night
             there
             were
             great
             Illuminations
             in
             the
             Seraglio
             and
             all
             the
             Mosquees
             :
             and
             the
             People
             express'd
             their
             Joy
             by
             Feasts
             ,
             Bone-fires
             ,
             and
             repeated
             Shouts
             ,
             crying
             ,
             without
             Intermission
             ,
             
               Long
               live
               our
               Emperour
               ,
               the
               Restorer
               of
               Monarchy
               ,
               and
               the
               Prophet's
               Darling
               .
            
          
           
             
               Monsieur
               de
               Chateauneuf
            
             ,
             who
             omits
             no
             occasion
             of
             pleasing
             the
             Turks
             ,
             gave
             'em
             so
             many
             and
             so
             expensive
             
             Marks
             of
             the
             Share
             he
             took
             in
             their
             Joy
             ,
             that
             his
             Charge
             cou'd
             not
             be
             much
             less
             than
             theirs
             .
             His
             Palace
             was
             almost
             cover'd
             with
             Garlands
             of
             Myrtle
             ;
             and
             at
             Night
             almost
             all
             the
             People
             of
             Constantinople
             flock'd
             thither
             to
             admire
             the
             Beauty
             of
             his
             Fire-Works
             .
             The
             French
             Ships
             signaliz'd
             their
             Zeal
             and
             Affection
             to
             the
             Ottoman
             Interest
             ,
             according
             to
             the
             Orders
             they
             receiv'd
             from
             the
             Ambassadour
             ,
             both
             by
             the
             Illuminations
             of
             which
             their
             Masts
             and
             Ropes
             were
             so
             full
             ,
             that
             they
             seem'd
             at
             a
             distance
             to
             be
             on
             fire
             ,
             and
             by
             repeated
             Discharges
             of
             their
             Artillery
             .
             Besides
             the
             Ambassadour
             prepar'd
             a
             splendid
             Feast
             for
             several
             Turkish
             Lords
             ;
             among
             whom
             was
             the
             Prince
             of
             Moldavia
             :
             There
             were
             two
             Tables
             for
             twenty
             Persons
             each
             ,
             those
             who
             sate
             at
             one
             being
             entertain'd
             by
             himself
             ,
             and
             those
             at
             the
             other
             by
             his
             Secretary
             Pelleran
             .
             The
             Guests
             were
             regal'd
             with
             all
             imaginable
             Magnificence
             both
             at
             Dinner
             and
             Supper
             ;
             and
             two
             Fountains
             run
             Wine
             in
             the
             Court
             ,
             all
             the
             while
             the
             Feast
             lasted
             ,
             whither
             all
             the
             
               Renegado's
               ,
               Greeks
            
             ,
             and
             Mariners
             ,
             came
             to
             drink
             the
             Healths
             of
             the
             
               Two
               Glorious
               Emperours
            
             ,
             Lewis
             and
             Solyman
             ,
             
               ever
               Great
               ,
               and
               ever
               Victorious
               ,
            
             pronouncing
             the
             Word
             Vivat
             ,
             according
             to
             the
             Custom
             of
             the
             Country
             ,
             with
             loud
             and
             repeated
             Acclamations
             ,
             which
             is
             the
             same
             thing
             with
             the
             
               English
               Huzza
            
             .
          
           
             But
             among
             all
             those
             Expressions
             of
             Joy
             ,
             that
             which
             scandaliz'd
             me
             most
             ,
             was
             a
             Pyramid
             of
             Fire
             ,
             forty
             Foot
             high
             ,
             which
             burnt
             in
             the
             Court
             till
             the
             Morning
             .
             For
             there
             was
             an
             Illumination
             on
             the
             Top
             of
             it
             representing
             on
             one
             Side
             the
             
               Arms
               of
               France
            
             ,
             and
             on
             the
             other
             ,
             a
             Shield
             charg'd
             with
             
               Three
               fiery
               Crescents
            
             .
             The
             Turks
             were
             extremely
             pleas'd
             to
             see
             with
             how
             much
             Ardour
             the
             French
             espous'd
             their
             Interests
             ;
             and
             since
             that
             time
             have
             look'd
             more
             favourably
             upon
             our
             Countrymen
             than
             before
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             that
             they
             have
             been
             of
             late
             so
             much
             oblig'd
             to
             France
             ,
             that
             they
             might
             justly
             be
             reckon'd
             the
             most
             
             ungrateful
             People
             in
             the
             World
             ,
             if
             they
             were
             not
             sensible
             of
             so
             many
             good
             Offices
             .
             For
             without
             insisting
             on
             the
             powerful
             Diversion
             made
             by
             our
             Forces
             on
             the
             Rhine
             ,
             which
             has
             contributed
             so
             effectually
             to
             the
             Success
             of
             their
             Arms
             ;
             they
             have
             ,
             to
             my
             certain
             Knowledge
             ,
             receiv'd
             Supplies
             of
             Money
             from
             them
             ,
             which
             ,
             without
             pretending
             to
             determine
             the
             precise
             Sums
             ,
             I
             can
             assure
             you
             amount
             to
             a
             very
             considerable
             Value
             ;
             for
             it
             has
             been
             observ'd
             in
             Ships
             that
             brought
             100000
             Piasters
             ,
             there
             were
             not
             20000
             for
             the
             use
             of
             the
             Merchants
             .
          
           
             The
             Ambassadour
             has
             the
             most
             convenient
             way
             that
             cou'd
             be
             desir'd
             ,
             to
             receive
             the
             Sums
             that
             are
             design'd
             for
             secret
             Service
             :
             for
             all
             the
             Money
             that
             comes
             over
             to
             the
             Merchants
             must
             be
             carry'd
             to
             his
             House
             ,
             where
             the
             Owners
             must
             afterwards
             receive
             it
             ;
             so
             that
             People
             are
             not
             at
             all
             surpriz'd
             ,
             when
             at
             the
             Arrival
             of
             a
             Ship
             they
             see
             Chests
             of
             Gold
             and
             Silver
             carry'd
             to
             him
             .
             And
             besides
             ,
             who
             knows
             whether
             the
             King
             sends
             not
             over
             Engineers
             ,
             Gunners
             ,
             and
             Officers
             :
             I
             have
             seen
             several
             Persons
             of
             that
             Character
             here
             ,
             and
             I
             my self
             refus'd
             a
             Place
             which
             
               Monsieur
               de
               Chateauneuf
            
             wou'd
             have
             given
             me
             in
             a
             Company
             of
             
               French
               Granadiers
            
             ,
             consisting
             of
             200
             Men
             ,
             who
             are
             publickly
             levy'd
             in
             this
             City
             .
          
           
             This
             puts
             me
             in
             Mind
             of
             a
             remarkable
             Accident
             that
             happen'd
             lately
             at
             Thessalonica
             .
             Two
             Engineers
             arriv'd
             in
             that
             Port
             ,
             pretending
             to
             be
             French
             Gentlemen
             ,
             and
             that
             they
             travell'd
             purely
             out
             of
             Curiosity
             :
             the
             Consul
             receiv'd
             'em
             with
             the
             highest
             Demonstrations
             of
             Civility
             ,
             and
             invited
             'em
             to
             lodge
             at
             his
             House
             ;
             for
             't
             is
             the
             usual
             Custom
             of
             all
             the
             Consuls
             in
             the
             Levant
             to
             shew
             a
             great
             deal
             of
             Respect
             and
             Kindness
             to
             Strangers
             that
             seem
             to
             be
             Persons
             of
             Note
             or
             Quality
             .
             But
             having
             other
             conceal'd
             Designs
             ,
             they
             address'd
             themselves
             two
             Days
             after
             their
             Arrival
             ,
             to
             a
             Greek
             that
             wore
             a
             
             I●ruggoman's
             Cap
             ,
             and
             pray'd
             him
             to
             carry
             'em
             to
             the
             ●assa
             ,
             and
             to
             interpret
             
             for
             'em
             ,
             without
             acquainting
             the
             Consul
             .
             The
             Greek
             ,
             who
             was
             glad
             of
             any
             Opportunity
             to
             earn
             Money
             ,
             embrac'd
             their
             Proposal
             very
             chearfully
             ,
             and
             accompany'd
             'em
             to
             the
             
             Bassa's
             House
             ,
             where
             they
             declar'd
             their
             Profession
             ,
             and
             offer'd
             him
             their
             Service
             ,
             but
             without
             intimating
             in
             the
             least
             that
             they
             were
             willing
             to
             renounce
             their
             Religion
             .
             The
             Turkish
             Officer
             receiv'd
             'em
             very
             favourably
             ,
             and
             promis'd
             to
             recommend
             'em
             to
             some
             Person
             at
             Constantinople
             ,
             who
             wou'd
             quickly
             procure
             'em
             an
             Employment
             suitable
             to
             their
             Inclinations
             .
             Thus
             they
             return'd
             to
             the
             
             Consul's
             House
             very
             well
             satisfy'd
             with
             the
             
             Bassa's
             Civility
             :
             but
             the
             Interpreter's
             Conscience
             not
             permitting
             him
             to
             have
             a
             Hand
             in
             assisting
             the
             declar'd
             Enemies
             of
             his
             Religion
             ,
             he
             discover'd
             the
             whole
             Intrigue
             to
             the
             Consul
             ,
             without
             concealing
             the
             Arguments
             and
             earnest
             Intreaties
             they
             us'd
             to
             oblige
             him
             to
             Secresie
             .
             Immediately
             the
             honest
             Consul
             believing
             that
             't
             wou'd
             be
             an
             acceptable
             Piece
             of
             Service
             both
             to
             God
             and
             the
             King
             ,
             to
             prevent
             the
             wicked
             Designs
             of
             his
             Guests
             ,
             order'd
             'em
             to
             be
             apprehended
             ,
             and
             sent
             back
             to
             France
             in
             Fetters
             .
             'T
             is
             plain
             that
             his
             Intentions
             were
             good
             ,
             and
             that
             he
             could
             not
             be
             justly
             blam'd
             for
             taking
             that
             Course
             ;
             but
             he
             quickly
             found
             ,
             to
             his
             Cost
             ,
             that
             they
             had
             more
             potent
             Friends
             than
             he
             imagin'd
             ,
             for
             after
             they
             had
             made
             their
             Complaints
             ,
             he
             receiv'd
             a
             severe
             Reprimand
             from
             the
             Marquess
             
               de
               Seignelay
            
             ,
             and
             was
             in
             danger
             of
             being
             turn'd
             out
             of
             his
             Office.
             
          
           
             The
             Number
             of
             Deserters
             that
             come
             over
             to
             the
             Turks
             is
             almost
             incredible
             .
             There
             are
             at
             present
             so
             many
             of
             'em
             in
             the
             Service
             ,
             that
             there
             might
             be
             several
             compleat
             French
             Regiments
             in
             the
             Ottoman
             Army
             .
             I
             know
             that
             such
             a
             Design
             has
             been
             several
             times
             propos'd
             to
             the
             Ambassadour
             by
             the
             
               Grand
               Visier
               ,
               Kopergli
               Oglou
            
             ,
             but
             the
             little
             Regard
             he
             still
             preserves
             to
             the
             external
             Rules
             of
             Decency
             ,
             has
             hitherto
             
             to
             restrain'd
             him
             from
             giving
             his
             Consent
             .
             Neither
             do
             I
             see
             any
             Reason
             why
             the
             Turks
             shou'd
             be
             offended
             at
             his
             seeming
             Niceness
             ,
             since
             't
             is
             not
             at
             all
             prejudicial
             to
             their
             Interest
             :
             For
             while
             their
             main
             Design
             is
             serv'd
             ,
             they
             may
             very
             well
             dispense
             with
             a
             needless
             Piece
             of
             Formality
             ,
             and
             the
             French
             Soldiers
             fight
             as
             well
             when
             they
             are
             dispers'd
             among
             the
             Ottoman
             Troops
             ,
             as
             if
             they
             were
             all
             united
             in
             a
             distinct
             Body
             .
             That
             which
             allures
             'em
             to
             come
             over
             in
             such
             vast
             Numbers
             ,
             is
             the
             favourable
             Treatment
             they
             receive
             at
             their
             Arrival
             :
             about
             eight
             Days
             ago
             I
             saw
             a
             hundred
             and
             fifty
             of
             'em
             march
             thro'
             this
             City
             ,
             with
             Drums
             beating
             ,
             and
             Colours
             flying
             ,
             I
             mean
             a
             Piece
             of
             White
             Cloth
             ,
             which
             in
             this
             Countrey
             ,
             as
             well
             as
             upon
             the
             Sea
             ,
             is
             reckon'd
             the
             Banner
             of
             France
             .
             Prisoners
             of
             all
             Nations
             ,
             except
             the
             Germans
             ,
             enjoy
             the
             same
             Priviledges
             ,
             provided
             they
             claim
             his
             Majesty's
             Protection
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             there
             are
             several
             pretended
             Deserters
             ,
             who
             carry
             on
             their
             hidden
             Designs
             under
             so
             specious
             a
             Disguise
             :
             Nor
             have
             the
             Turks
             yet
             learn'd
             Circumspection
             ,
             tho'
             they
             have
             been
             so
             often
             deceiv'd
             .
             I
             cou'd
             tell
             you
             twenty
             Stories
             of
             this
             Nature
             ,
             but
             I
             shall
             content
             my self
             with
             relating
             one
             Instance
             ,
             to
             convince
             you
             that
             the
             Emperour
             has
             as
             good
             Spies
             as
             the
             King
             of
             France
             .
          
           
             About
             the
             End
             of
             the
             last
             Year
             ,
             immediately
             after
             the
             Death
             of
             the
             Ambassadour
             Girardin
             ,
             one
             Vanel
             came
             over
             as
             a
             Deserter
             to
             the
             Grand
             Visier's
             Army
             in
             Hungary
             ,
             pretending
             to
             be
             a
             French
             Gentleman
             ,
             who
             was
             taken
             Prisoner
             on
             the
             Rhine
             ,
             and
             forc'd
             to
             serve
             as
             a
             Voluntier
             in
             the
             Emperour's
             Army
             ,
             which
             he
             left
             ,
             assoon
             as
             he
             found
             a
             favourable
             Occasion
             to
             make
             his
             Escape
             .
             But
             not
             contenting
             himself
             to
             remain
             as
             a
             Spy
             in
             the
             Army
             ,
             he
             had
             the
             Confidence
             to
             assume
             the
             Character
             of
             
               Agent
               of
               France
            
             ,
             till
             the
             Arrival
             of
             the
             Ambassadour
             whom
             the
             King
             had
             nam'd
             .
             The
             
               Grand
               Visier
            
             seeing
             
             a
             Man
             whose
             very
             aspect
             seem'd
             to
             answer
             for
             his
             Honesty
             ;
             and
             besides
             ,
             perceiving
             that
             he
             made
             a
             great
             Figure
             ,
             was
             so
             far
             from
             suspecting
             him
             ,
             that
             he
             own'd
             him
             as
             Agent
             :
             So
             that
             during
             the
             whole
             Winter
             he
             manag'd
             the
             King's
             Affairs
             with
             as
             much
             Authority
             as
             if
             he
             had
             been
             empower'd
             with
             a
             Commission
             from
             Versailles
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             he
             seem'd
             to
             be
             very
             jealous
             of
             the
             Honour
             and
             Interest
             of
             the
             Nation
             ;
             but
             in
             private
             he
             endeavour'd
             to
             perswade
             the
             
               Grand
               Visier
            
             that
             the
             only
             way
             to
             preserve
             the
             Ottoman
             Empire
             ,
             was
             to
             hasten
             the
             conclusion
             of
             a
             Peace
             with
             the
             Emperour
             ;
             and
             in
             the
             mean
             time
             he
             found
             out
             ways
             to
             acquaint
             the
             Court
             of
             Vienna
             with
             all
             the
             Transactions
             at
             the
             Port.
             
          
           
             This
             cunning
             Spy
             had
             the
             Art
             to
             play
             so
             difficult
             a
             Game
             with
             so
             much
             dexterity
             and
             success
             ,
             that
             he
             gain'd
             the
             esteem
             and
             affection
             both
             of
             the
             
               Grand
               Visier
            
             and
             Sultan
             ,
             from
             whom
             he
             receiv'd
             considerable
             Presents
             .
             And
             even
             the
             French
             had
             at
             last
             so
             good
             an
             Opinion
             of
             him
             ,
             that
             they
             scrupl'd
             not
             to
             address
             themselves
             to
             him
             on
             all
             occasions
             ,
             as
             they
             wou'd
             have
             done
             to
             an
             Ambassador
             .
             So
             that
             he
             thought
             his
             Credit
             so
             well
             established
             ,
             that
             he
             might
             boldly
             expect
             the
             arrival
             of
             Monsieur
             
               de
               Chateauneuf
            
             ,
             who
             was
             coming
             to
             perswade
             the
             Visier
             to
             continue
             the
             War
             against
             the
             Empire
             .
             Vanel
             went
             to
             meet
             him
             a
             days
             Journey
             beyond
             Sophia
             ,
             and
             told
             him
             ,
             that
             since
             Fortune
             had
             engag'd
             him
             in
             the
             Ottoman
             Service
             ,
             during
             the
             Vacancy
             of
             the
             Embassy
             ,
             he
             thought
             himself
             oblig'd
             by
             the
             Honour
             he
             had
             to
             be
             a
             French
             Gentleman
             ,
             to
             do
             what
             Service
             he
             cou'd
             to
             the
             Nation
             ,
             as
             he
             had
             actually
             done
             for
             several
             Months
             ,
             and
             was
             ready
             to
             give
             him
             an
             exact
             account
             of
             all
             his
             Proceedings
             .
             Afterwards
             he
             went
             with
             the
             Ambassador
             to
             the
             Visier
             ,
             who
             gave
             him
             so
             favourable
             a
             Character
             ,
             that
             Monsieur
             
               de
               Chateauneuf
            
             either
             did
             not
             ,
             or
             seem'd
             not
             to
             doubt
             of
             his
             Zeal
             and
             Affection
             to
             the
             King's
             Service
             .
             However
             ,
             't
             is
             
             probable
             ,
             that
             he
             was
             not
             entirely
             satisfi'd
             with
             his
             Conduct
             ,
             and
             that
             he
             wrote
             to
             several
             Places
             for
             better
             Information
             concerning
             him
             .
             For
             having
             one
             Evening
             receiv'd
             a
             Pacquet
             in
             
             Vanel's
             Presence
             ,
             that
             subtle
             Spy
             fearing
             that
             the
             Intelligence
             might
             concern
             him
             ,
             adventur'd
             to
             peep
             over
             the
             Ambassador's
             Shoulder
             ,
             while
             he
             was
             reading
             the
             Letters
             ,
             and
             perceiving
             that
             they
             gave
             a
             very
             suspicious
             Account
             of
             him
             ,
             he
             resolv'd
             to
             prevent
             the
             danger
             that
             threaten'd
             him
             by
             a
             sudden
             Flight
             .
             Next
             Morning
             he
             rose
             as
             soon
             as
             the
             day
             began
             to
             appear
             ,
             and
             went
             immediately
             to
             one
             
               D'
               Etanchot
            
             ,
             a
             French
             Captain
             in
             Count
             
             Teckely's
             Troops
             ,
             who
             was
             his
             intimate
             Friend
             :
             He
             accosted
             him
             with
             a
             Melancholic
             Air
             ,
             and
             intreated
             him
             to
             carry
             him
             to
             Count.
             
             Teckely's
             Army
             ,
             where
             he
             had
             some
             business
             to
             dispatch
             that
             requir'd
             all
             possible
             expedition
             .
             
               D'
               Etanchot
            
             reply'd
             ,
             That
             he
             was
             ready
             to
             serve
             him
             ,
             and
             that
             he
             would
             immediately
             go
             along
             with
             him
             after
             he
             had
             receiv'd
             the
             Ambassador's
             Orders
             .
             Vanel
             ,
             who
             dreaded
             nothing
             more
             than
             the
             discovery
             of
             his
             Design
             ,
             conjur'd
             his
             Friend
             not
             to
             insist
             on
             that
             piece
             of
             Formality
             ;
             and
             to
             engage
             him
             the
             more
             effectually
             to
             comply
             with
             his
             Desires
             ,
             he
             offer'd
             him
             1000
             Pistoles
             ,
             promising
             to
             give
             him
             as
             much
             more
             at
             the
             end
             of
             his
             Journey
             .
             
               D'
               Etanchot
            
             was
             extreamly
             surpriz'd
             at
             his
             Earnestness
             and
             Impatience
             ,
             and
             perceiv'd
             by
             the
             great
             Offers
             he
             made
             him
             ,
             that
             the
             business
             was
             of
             greater
             Importance
             than
             at
             first
             he
             imagin'd
             :
             His
             Fidelity
             to
             his
             Prince
             was
             stronger
             than
             his
             Affection
             to
             his
             Friend
             ,
             and
             at
             last
             he
             told
             him
             plainly
             ,
             that
             he
             wou'd
             not
             go
             with
             him
             unless
             he
             wou'd
             suffer
             him
             to
             ask
             the
             Ambassador's
             Permission
             before
             his
             departure
             .
             Then
             Vanel
             seeing
             himself
             discover'd
             ,
             and
             fearing
             Torture
             more
             than
             Death
             ,
             which
             he
             knew
             was
             inavoidable
             ,
             lest
             he
             shou'd
             not
             be
             able
             to
             endure
             the
             extream
             violence
             of
             the
             Pain
             ,
             without
             divulging
             his
             Secret
             ,
             he
             resolv'd
             to
             be
             
             his
             own
             Executioner
             ;
             and
             suffering
             
               D'
               Etanchot
            
             to
             walk
             some
             paces
             before
             him
             ,
             without
             speaking
             a
             Word
             ,
             he
             pull'd
             a
             Pistol
             out
             of
             his
             Pocket
             ,
             charg'd
             with
             three
             Bullets
             ,
             and
             shot
             himself
             thro'
             the
             Head.
             His
             Friend
             surpriz'd
             at
             the
             unexpected
             noise
             ,
             look'd
             back
             ,
             and
             seeing
             him
             lie
             groveling
             on
             the
             Ground
             ,
             and
             wallowing
             in
             his
             own
             Blood
             ,
             run
             immediately
             to
             acquaint
             the
             Ambassador
             with
             the
             Tragical
             Accident
             ,
             who
             at
             first
             cou'd
             not
             believe
             him
             ,
             but
             afterwards
             suspecting
             him
             to
             be
             the
             Murderer
             ,
             order'd
             him
             to
             be
             secur'd
             :
             Then
             he
             went
             with
             several
             of
             his
             Servants
             ,
             to
             the
             place
             where
             this
             unfortunate
             Person
             lay
             ,
             and
             finding
             him
             still
             alive
             ,
             tho'
             very
             weak
             ,
             he
             ask'd
             him
             ,
             How
             he
             was
             ;
             Optimé
             ,
             reply'd
             Vanel
             ,
             for
             they
             us'd
             to
             discourse
             in
             Latin.
             Then
             the
             Ambassador
             enquir'd
             ,
             who
             put
             him
             in
             that
             condition
             ,
             
               I
               did
            
             ,
             answer'd
             he
             :
             What
             mov'd
             you
             to
             such
             an
             act
             ,
             reply'd
             the
             Ambassador
             ;
             Because
             ,
             said
             he
             ,
             
               I
               was
               weary
               of
               Life
            
             .
             Afterwards
             the
             Ambassador
             ask'd
             him
             several
             Questions
             concerning
             the
             place
             of
             his
             Birth
             ,
             and
             his
             design
             in
             coming
             hither
             ,
             but
             cou'd
             not
             obtain
             any
             satisfactory
             Answer
             ;
             and
             (
             which
             is
             hardly
             credible
             )
             he
             endur'd
             the
             most
             exquisitely
             cruel
             Torments
             they
             cou'd
             invent
             ,
             without
             making
             the
             least
             discovery
             ,
             and
             even
             was
             so
             little
             daunted
             ,
             that
             while
             he
             lay
             under
             the
             extremity
             of
             the
             Torture
             ,
             
               'T
               is
               in
               vain
            
             ,
             said
             he
             to
             the
             Ambassador
             ,
             
               to
               torment
               me
               thus
               ,
               you
               shall
               never
               know
               more
               than
               I
               have
               already
               told
               you
               .
            
             In
             short
             ,
             he
             gave
             so
             many
             Marks
             of
             an
             invincible
             Courage
             and
             Resolution
             ,
             that
             I
             cou'd
             hardly
             forbear
             comparing
             him
             to
             Socrates
             ,
             or
             
               Minutius
               Scaevola
            
             ,
             if
             I
             had
             not
             a
             natural
             reluctancy
             to
             praise
             Men
             of
             his
             Profession
             .
             Thus
             he
             died
             of
             his
             Wounds
             ,
             and
             left
             no
             Papers
             of
             consequence
             ,
             that
             cou'd
             discover
             his
             Intrigue
             :
             But
             the
             Ambassador
             and
             his
             Men
             seiz'd
             on
             ten
             or
             twelve
             good
             Horses
             ,
             and
             above
             25000
             Livres
             in
             Gold
             that
             were
             found
             in
             his
             Possession
             .
          
           
           
             I
             shall
             conclude
             this
             Letter
             with
             telling
             you
             ,
             that
             I
             'm
             resolv'd
             to
             depart
             with
             the
             first
             fair
             Wind
             for
             Alexandria
             ,
             in
             a
             Vessel
             belonging
             to
             Ciotad
             ,
             Commanded
             by
             Captain
             Carbonneau
             ,
             who
             is
             an
             old
             Seaman
             ,
             and
             perfectly
             well
             acquainted
             with
             all
             the
             parts
             of
             the
             Mediterranean
             .
             But
             I
             'm
             afraid
             he
             will
             stand
             in
             need
             of
             all
             his
             Experience
             to
             bring
             us
             safe
             to
             our
             design'd
             Harbour
             ;
             for
             this
             is
             the
             most
             dangerous
             season
             of
             the
             Year
             .
             However
             ,
             I
             have
             stay'd
             so
             long
             in
             Constantinople
             ,
             that
             ,
             tho'
             the
             Voyage
             were
             more
             hazardous
             ,
             I
             cou'd
             willingly
             adventure
             on
             't
             .
          
           
             I
             am
             ,
             
               SIR
               ,
            
             
               Your
               &c.
               
            
             
               Constantinople
               ,
               
                 Nov.
                 1690.
                 
              
            
          
        
         
           
             LETTER
             XV.
             
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
          
           
             STorms
             and
             
               Contrary
               Winds
            
             are
             the
             main
             ,
             and
             almost
             the
             only
             Objects
             of
             a
             Traveller's
             Fear
             at
             Sea
             :
             And
             Yet
             I
             reckon
             my self
             extreamly
             oblig'd
             to
             the
             Bad
             Weather
             we
             met
             with
             about
             eight
             days
             ago
             ,
             since
             it
             forc'd
             our
             Captain
             to
             stop
             at
             the
             famous
             Island
             of
             Scio
             ,
             where
             we
             still
             continue
             .
          
           
             The
             Greeks
             ,
             and
             in
             general
             all
             the
             Christian
             Inhabitants
             ,
             enjoy
             so
             many
             Priviledges
             ,
             and
             retain
             so
             many
             Marks
             of
             their
             ancient
             Liberty
             ,
             that
             if
             I
             did
             not
             sometimes
             see
             a
             Turbant
             ,
             I
             shou'd
             almost
             forget
             that
             I
             am
             still
             in
             Turkey
             .
             The
             whole
             compass
             of
             the
             Island
             does
             not
             amount
             to
             100
             Miles
             ;
             yet
             there
             are
             above
             200
             Churches
             in
             it
             ,
             and
             at
             
             least
             30
             Monasteries
             belonging
             to
             the
             Greek
             and
             Latin
             Christians
             ,
             who
             perform
             their
             several
             Rites
             without
             the
             least
             disturbance
             .
             They
             are
             suffer'd
             to
             walk
             in
             Procession
             about
             the
             Streets
             ,
             as
             in
             France
             ;
             tho'
             there
             is
             nothing
             more
             odious
             to
             the
             Turks
             than
             that
             Ceremony
             :
             And
             which
             is
             still
             more
             remarkable
             ,
             the
             Greeks
             ,
             who
             ,
             in
             all
             other
             parts
             of
             the
             Ottoman
             Empire
             are
             reputed
             Slaves
             ,
             live
             here
             under
             the
             Protection
             of
             a
             Magistrate
             ,
             who
             has
             the
             Title
             of
             Consul
             .
             This
             Happiness
             ,
             which
             ought
             to
             be
             so
             much
             the
             dearer
             to
             the
             Greeks
             of
             this
             Island
             ,
             because
             't
             is
             peculiar
             to
             themselves
             ,
             is
             only
             a
             continuation
             of
             the
             Favours
             bestow'd
             on
             'em
             by
             Mahomet
             II.
             when
             he
             made
             himself
             Master
             of
             Greece
             .
             For
             the
             Sciots
             perceiving
             that
             't
             wou'd
             be
             in
             vain
             to
             resist
             an
             Enemy
             who
             had
             lately
             taken
             Constantinople
             from
             the
             Palaeologi
             ,
             and
             was
             still
             Victorious
             in
             all
             his
             Attempts
             ,
             resolv'd
             to
             mitigate
             his
             Fury
             by
             a
             voluntary
             submission
             ,
             and
             own'd
             themselves
             his
             Subjects
             ,
             perhaps
             before
             he
             thought
             of
             Attaking
             '
             em
             .
             Mahomet
             was
             so
             well
             satisfi'd
             with
             this
             Mark
             of
             their
             Affection
             ,
             that
             he
             granted
             'em
             several
             advantageous
             Priviledges
             which
             they
             still
             enjoy
             .
             For
             the
             Turks
             are
             very
             Religious
             observers
             of
             their
             Promises
             to
             their
             own
             Subjects
             ;
             tho'
             they
             scruple
             not
             to
             violate
             Treaties
             concluded
             with
             Neighbouring
             Princes
             ,
             especially
             Christians
             ,
             and
             
               Heretical
               Mahometans
            
             ,
             such
             as
             the
             Persians
             ,
             of
             whom
             the
             Turks
             have
             almost
             as
             bad
             an
             Opinion
             as
             the
             
               Roman
               Catholicks
            
             have
             of
             Protestants
             ;
             because
             the
             Persians
             embrace
             the
             Doctrine
             of
             one
             Haly
             ,
             who
             pretended
             to
             reform
             the
             Mahometan
             Religion
             ,
             as
             Luther
             and
             Calvin
             have
             Reform'd
             the
             Christian
             .
          
           
             At
             that
             time
             the
             Island
             was
             possess'd
             by
             the
             Justiniani
             ,
             with
             the
             Title
             of
             a
             Principality
             ,
             under
             the
             Protection
             of
             the
             Genoese
             ,
             who
             were
             then
             Masters
             of
             many
             fine
             Countries
             in
             Natolia
             ,
             as
             it
             appears
             by
             the
             Escutcheons
             and
             Arms
             of
             the
             Republic
             ,
             
             which
             are
             still
             to
             be
             seen
             almost
             at
             every
             end
             of
             a
             Field
             .
          
           
             There
             is
             but
             one
             City
             in
             the
             Island
             ,
             and
             that
             a
             very
             small
             one
             ,
             tho'
             it
             has
             eight
             Gates
             .
             The
             Streets
             are
             broad
             enough
             for
             Coaches
             ;
             and
             the
             beauty
             of
             the
             old
             Houses
             is
             a
             sign
             of
             the
             richness
             and
             splendor
             of
             their
             ancient
             Possessors
             .
             The
             Castle
             is
             not
             much
             less
             than
             the
             City
             ,
             and
             Commands
             both
             that
             and
             the
             Port
             :
             Yet
             some
             Years
             ago
             the
             Marquis
             
               Du
               Quesne
            
             had
             the
             Courage
             to
             attack
             some
             Pirates
             who
             retir●d
             under
             its
             Walls
             ,
             and
             fir'd
             above
             fifty
             Broad-sides
             into
             the
             City
             ,
             because
             the
             Bassa
             made
             a
             shew
             of
             resisting
             him
             .
             This
             attempt
             caus'd
             so
             great
             a
             Consternation
             among
             the
             Inhabitants
             ,
             that
             their
             fears
             continue
             even
             after
             the
             Marquiss's
             Death
             ,
             and
             they
             still
             tremble
             when
             they
             hear
             his
             Name
             mention'd
             .
             The
             French
             are
             very
             proud
             of
             this
             Expedition
             ,
             tho'
             't
             is
             certain
             they
             have
             no
             great
             reason
             to
             boast
             of
             it
             ,
             since
             it
             cost
             the
             Nation
             100000
             Crowns
             ,
             which
             Fabre
             ,
             the
             French
             Agent
             ,
             pay'd
             to
             the
             
               Grand
               Visier
            
             .
             This
             was
             ,
             in
             my
             Opinion
             ,
             a
             sufficient
             reparation
             to
             the
             Turks
             ;
             and
             there
             was
             no
             Honour
             got
             by
             so
             vigorous
             an
             Action
             ,
             but
             that
             which
             is
             due
             to
             the
             Memory
             of
             the
             brave
             Man
             that
             perform'd
             it
             .
          
           
             'T
             is
             equally
             difficult
             to
             enter
             the
             Port
             ,
             and
             to
             get
             out
             of
             it
             ,
             as
             our
             Captain
             has
             found
             to
             his
             cost
             :
             For
             the
             charge
             of
             maintaining
             the
             Ships
             Company
             amounts
             at
             least
             to
             60
             Livres
             a
             day
             ,
             and
             I
             believe
             he
             wou'd
             willingly
             give
             30
             
               Louis
               d'
               Ors
            
             to
             be
             at
             Sea
             again
             .
          
           
             The
             Government
             of
             Scio
             is
             a
             very
             considerable
             Post
             ,
             and
             the
             Bassa
             is
             oftentimes
             advanc'd
             to
             the
             Dignity
             of
             
               Grand
               Visier
            
             .
             'T
             is
             not
             above
             a
             Year
             since
             
               Kopergli
               Oglou
            
             was
             remov'd
             from
             this
             place
             ,
             and
             made
             Visier
             after
             the
             Death
             of
             Ismael
             .
             He
             has
             under
             him
             a
             Kiaia
             ,
             a
             Kady
             ,
             a
             Vaivoide
             ,
             and
             a
             
               Receiver
               of
               Customs
            
             ,
             as
             all
             other
             Bassa's
             have
             .
             The
             Last
             of
             
             these
             Officers
             has
             more
             Employment
             here
             than
             in
             most
             other
             places
             ,
             by
             reason
             of
             the
             Mastic
             that
             grows
             in
             this
             Island
             ,
             better
             and
             more
             plentiful
             than
             in
             any
             other
             part
             of
             the
             World.
             There
             are
             above
             a
             Thousand
             Chests
             of
             it
             gather'd
             every
             Year
             ,
             each
             of
             which
             contains
             Three
             Hundred
             Weight
             ,
             and
             the
             total
             Value
             amounts
             to
             above
             200000
             Crowns
             .
             But
             the
             Inhabitants
             are
             not
             much
             enrich'd
             by
             so
             considerable
             a
             Trade
             :
             For
             they
             are
             not
             only
             oblig'd
             to
             pay
             one
             half
             of
             the
             Mastic
             by
             way
             of
             Tribute
             ,
             but
             must
             sell
             the
             rest
             at
             a
             very
             low
             rate
             to
             the
             Receiver
             of
             Customs
             .
             'T
             is
             a
             white
             odoriferous
             Gumm
             ,
             that
             runs
             in
             the
             Spring
             out
             of
             little
             holes
             which
             are
             made
             in
             the
             Bark
             of
             a
             small
             ,
             weak
             ,
             and
             twining
             Shrub
             that
             creeps
             along
             the
             Ground
             ,
             as
             Vines
             wou'd
             do
             if
             they
             were
             not
             supported
             .
          
           
             I
             have
             not
             hitherto
             had
             occasion
             to
             see
             any
             remarkable
             Church
             in
             this
             Island
             ,
             but
             that
             which
             is
             call'd
             Niaomai
             :
             'T
             is
             a
             very
             ancient
             Building
             ,
             and
             adorn'd
             with
             a
             piece
             of
             Mosaic
             Work
             ,
             like
             that
             of
             
               Sancta
               Sophia
            
             .
             I
             will
             not
             trouble
             you
             with
             the
             Story
             of
             its
             
               Miraculous
               Image
            
             ,
             since
             all
             these
             Legends
             are
             only
             the
             same
             Tale
             ,
             repeated
             with
             some
             small
             alterations
             .
             The
             Greeks
             believe
             and
             maintain
             these
             Impostures
             with
             a
             great
             deal
             of
             Zeal
             ;
             and
             even
             the
             Turks
             who
             abhorr
             the
             
               Christian
               Religion
            
             ,
             worse
             than
             Magic
             ,
             are
             sometimes
             cheated
             by
             'em
             :
             For
             when
             they
             hear
             that
             one
             of
             the
             Saints
             cures
             such
             a
             Distemper
             ,
             they
             procure
             Masses
             to
             be
             said
             ,
             and
             present
             Candles
             with
             as
             much
             Devotion
             as
             the
             most
             Superstitious
             Greek
             .
             I
             shall
             take
             this
             occasion
             to
             relate
             an
             accident
             that
             happen'd
             not
             long
             ago
             in
             this
             place
             ;
             and
             perhaps
             you
             will
             not
             think
             your
             time
             ill
             imploy'd
             in
             reading
             so
             odd
             and
             diverting
             a
             Story
             .
             You
             have
             doubtless
             heard
             of
             St.
             Anthony
             of
             Padua
             ,
             who
             is
             the
             
               Padrone
               Singularo
            
             of
             all
             the
             Italians
             ,
             and
             has
             acquir'd
             so
             great
             a
             Reputation
             of
             working
             Miracles
             ,
             that
             tho'
             he
             was
             a
             declar'd
             
             Papist
             ,
             and
             more
             than
             that
             ,
             a
             Monk
             of
             the
             Order
             of
             St.
             Francis
             ;
             the
             Greeks
             have
             plac'd
             him
             among
             their
             
               Tutelar
               Saints
            
             ,
             and
             sing
             
               Kyrie
               Eleison's
            
             to
             him
             with
             as
             much
             Devotion
             as
             to
             St.
             Polycarp
             himself
             .
             He
             has
             a
             Magnificent
             Chapel
             in
             this
             place
             ,
             and
             in
             it
             a
             Wooden
             Image
             ,
             which
             is
             very
             well
             painted
             ,
             gilt
             ,
             and
             crown'd
             ,
             and
             wants
             neither
             He
             nor
             She
             Votaries
             in
             abundance
             .
             His
             Miracles
             are
             the
             only
             subject
             of
             the
             common
             Talk.
             Some
             own
             themselves
             oblig'd
             to
             him
             for
             Husbands
             ,
             and
             others
             for
             Wives
             ;
             sometimes
             he
             heals
             a
             broken
             Leg
             ,
             and
             saves
             others
             from
             Ship-wrack
             ;
             and
             ,
             in
             a
             word
             ,
             I
             know
             not
             one
             Person
             here
             who
             has
             not
             receiv'd
             some
             Marks
             of
             his
             Favour
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             he
             's
             apt
             to
             grow
             sullen
             ,
             and
             woe
             be
             to
             the
             poor
             Suppliants
             when
             little
             
               St.
               Anthony
            
             takes
             the
             pet
             ,
             for
             he
             'll
             e'en
             let
             'em
             cry
             their
             Eyes
             out
             ,
             without
             deigning
             to
             take
             notice
             of
             'em
             :
             However
             ,
             there
             is
             no
             Disease
             without
             its
             Remedy
             ,
             and
             a
             few
             smart
             Lashes
             about
             the
             Shoulders
             usually
             cures
             him
             of
             the
             Spleen
             .
             But
             when
             the
             Distemper
             is
             very
             stubborn
             ,
             and
             the
             Dose
             of
             the
             Whip
             proves
             ineffectual
             ,
             they
             either
             turn
             him
             out
             of
             his
             Lodging
             ,
             and
             make
             him
             lie
             abroad
             in
             the
             Wind
             and
             Rain
             ,
             or
             dip
             him
             ten
             or
             twelve
             times
             in
             Water
             ,
             with
             a
             great
             Stone
             at
             his
             Neck
             ,
             which
             always
             produces
             the
             desir'd
             effect
             ,
             and
             makes
             the
             little
             Gentleman
             as
             Complaisant
             as
             they
             can
             wish
             .
             One
             of
             the
             Turks
             in
             the
             Castle
             ,
             who
             had
             ventur'd
             all
             his
             Stock
             on
             Board
             a
             Saique
             ,
             and
             was
             afraid
             of
             losing
             it
             either
             by
             Storm
             or
             Piracy
             ,
             resolv'd
             to
             steal
             
               St.
               Anthony
            
             ,
             of
             whom
             he
             had
             heard
             so
             many
             Wonders
             ,
             and
             either
             by
             fair
             or
             foul
             means
             to
             make
             him
             preserve
             his
             Goods
             .
             He
             waited
             some
             time
             for
             a
             convenient
             opportunity
             to
             put
             his
             design
             in
             execution
             ;
             and
             one
             day
             perceiving
             that
             there
             were
             none
             in
             the
             Church
             but
             himself
             ,
             he
             hid
             the
             miraculous
             Image
             under
             his
             Vest
             ,
             and
             carri'd
             it
             away
             undiscover'd
             .
             As
             soon
             as
             he
             came
             home
             he
             set
             it
             in
             the
             most
             
             honourable
             Place
             of
             his
             House
             ,
             adorn'd
             it
             with
             Flowers
             ,
             and
             kept
             two
             Wax
             Candles
             perpetually
             burning
             before
             it
             ;
             addreffing
             himself
             to
             it
             every
             day
             with
             a
             great
             deal
             of
             Reverence
             ,
             and
             humbly
             acquainting
             it
             that
             his
             whole
             Estate
             was
             on
             board
             the
             Saique
             ;
             and
             that
             the
             Loss
             of
             that
             wou'd
             entirely
             ruine
             him
             and
             his
             Family
             .
             Thus
             he
             continu'd
             as
             long
             as
             he
             might
             reasonably
             hope
             that
             the
             Saique
             was
             safe
             ;
             but
             when
             the
             time
             was
             expir'd
             ,
             in
             which
             he
             expected
             to
             hear
             of
             its
             Return
             ,
             he
             took
             away
             the
             Flowers
             and
             Candles
             ,
             and
             began
             to
             treat
             the
             Image
             very
             roughly
             ,
             beating
             it
             every
             day
             ,
             and
             threatning
             a
             worse
             Usage
             ,
             if
             he
             shou'd
             find
             that
             it
             had
             neglected
             his
             Saique
             .
             
               Thou
               infamous
               Christian
            
             ,
             said
             he
             ,
             
               think'st
               thou
               to
               mock
               a
            
             Musulman
             ,
             
               whose
               Slave
               thou
               art
               not
               worthy
               to
               be
               ?
               By
            
             Mahomet
             ,
             
               if
               thou
               dost
               not
               restore
               my
            
             Saique
             ,
             
               I
               'll
               beat
               thee
               to
               Pieces
            
             .
          
           
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             both
             the
             Greeks
             and
             Romanists
             were
             extremely
             griev'd
             for
             the
             Loss
             of
             their
             Saint
             :
             and
             their
             Consternation
             was
             the
             greater
             ,
             because
             they
             cou'd
             not
             imagine
             him
             to
             be
             stoll'n
             away
             ,
             since
             he
             was
             only
             made
             of
             Wood.
             The
             Cordeliers
             had
             not
             the
             least
             Share
             in
             the
             common
             Affliction
             ;
             but
             since
             they
             have
             an
             admirable
             Faculty
             of
             improving
             every
             thing
             to
             the
             best
             Advantage
             ,
             they
             declar'd
             publickly
             that
             the
             Saint
             was
             not
             able
             longer
             to
             endure
             the
             Coldness
             of
             the
             Peoples
             Devotion
             ,
             and
             had
             therefore
             withdrawn
             his
             Presence
             from
             among
             '
             em
             .
             And
             even
             an
             old
             Father
             dream'd
             that
             S.
             Anthony
             appear'd
             to
             him
             ,
             and
             said
             ,
             
               My
               Son
               ,
               I
               have
               left
               this
               City
               ,
               because
               I
               was
               no
               longer
               able
               to
               be
               a
               Witness
               of
               the
               Crimes
               that
               are
               daily
               committed
               in
               it
               ,
               and
               the
               Want
               of
               Love
               to
               God
               ,
               and
               Zeal
               to
               his
               Service
               .
            
             The
             good
             Man
             related
             his
             Dream
             to
             the
             People
             ,
             and
             exhorted
             'em
             to
             recall
             the
             Saint
             by
             Prayers
             ,
             Vows
             ,
             and
             above
             all
             ,
             by
             a
             great
             number
             of
             Masses
             .
             At
             last
             the
             Turk
             heard
             of
             the
             safe
             Arrival
             of
             the
             Saique
             with
             
             his
             Goods
             ,
             so
             that
             thinking
             himself
             oblig'd
             in
             Conscience
             to
             release
             the
             Saint
             out
             of
             his
             Prison
             ,
             he
             carry'd
             him
             back
             with
             a
             great
             deal
             of
             Honour
             ,
             and
             told
             the
             whole
             Story
             .
             The
             Image
             was
             very
             joyfully
             receiv'd
             by
             the
             Christians
             ,
             who
             look'd
             upon
             this
             as
             a
             New
             Miracle
             ;
             which
             re-kindl'd
             their
             Devotion
             to
             such
             a
             Degree
             ,
             that
             it
             can
             never
             be
             more
             ardent
             than
             't
             is
             at
             present
             :
             the
             Turk
             also
             gave
             100
             Piasters
             ,
             as
             an●
             Acknowledgment
             of
             the
             Favour
             he
             had
             receiv'd
             ,
             and
             the
             Fathers
             order'd
             the
             Money
             to
             be
             cast
             into
             a
             silver
             Chain
             ,
             with
             which
             they
             fasten'd
             the
             Image
             ,
             to
             prevent
             its
             being
             stoll'n
             hereafter
             :
             for
             they
             consider'd
             that
             People
             are
             always
             apt
             to
             follow
             a
             bad
             Example
             ,
             and
             that
             they
             might
             perhaps
             miss
             their
             Saint
             when
             they
             shou'd
             have
             most
             need
             of
             him
             .
          
           
             This
             Accident
             has
             convinc'd
             me
             of
             a
             Truth
             I
             cou'd
             never
             believe
             before
             ,
             I
             mean
             that
             Superstition
             may
             bear
             such
             an
             absolute
             Sway
             in
             the
             Minds
             of
             those
             who
             are
             under
             its
             Power
             ,
             that
             even
             Turks
             and
             Christians
             may
             join
             together
             in
             some
             Rites
             of
             Devotion
             .
             I
             confess
             I
             was
             so
             far
             from
             giving
             Credit
             to
             Relations
             of
             this
             Nature
             ,
             that
             I
             could
             hardly
             believe
             my
             own
             Eyes
             on
             a
             like
             Occasion
             at
             Lampedusa
             ,
             where
             we
             touch'd
             in
             our
             Voyage
             to
             Malta
             .
             But
             since
             I
             am
             now
             of
             another
             Opinion
             ,
             I
             shall
             take
             this
             Occasion
             to
             acquaint
             you
             with
             an
             Observation
             I
             made
             there
             ,
             which
             I
             durst
             not
             mention
             so
             long
             as
             I
             thought
             it
             impossible
             .
          
           
             There
             is
             in
             that
             Island
             a
             little
             Chapel
             dedicated
             to
             the
             Virgin
             ,
             in
             which
             there
             is
             an
             Altar
             ,
             and
             a
             Coffin
             with
             a
             Turbant
             laid
             upon
             it
             ,
             which
             is
             usually
             call'd
             
               Mahomet's
               Tomb.
            
             Both
             Turks
             and
             Christians
             have
             so
             great
             a
             Veneration
             for
             this
             Chapel
             ,
             that
             they
             never
             pass
             it
             by
             without
             leaving
             Money
             ,
             Victuals
             ,
             or
             some
             other
             Offering
             .
             At
             our
             Arrival
             we
             found
             two
             large
             and
             fresh
             Pastaiques
             ,
             a
             Sequin
             of
             Gold
             ,
             some
             silver
             Aspers
             ,
             and
             small
             Coin
             of
             Malta
             ,
             to
             which
             our
             
             Captain
             added
             a
             French
             Piece
             of
             
               Three-pence
               half-peny
            
             .
             Our
             Pilot
             told
             me
             that
             these
             Offerings
             were
             design'd
             for
             the
             Relief
             of
             poor
             Slaves
             ,
             who
             oftentimes
             escap'd
             thither
             from
             Malta
             and
             Afric
             ;
             adding
             that
             the
             Place
             was
             so
             Sacred
             and
             Miraculous
             that
             none
             but
             Slaves
             durst
             take
             any
             of
             these
             things
             from
             the
             Altar
             ;
             or
             ,
             if
             they
             did
             ,
             that
             they
             could
             not
             possibly
             get
             out
             of
             the
             Island
             .
             He
             related
             also
             several
             Instances
             of
             these
             Miracles
             ,
             but
             all
             his
             Arguments
             and
             Stories
             could
             not
             hinder
             me
             from
             eating
             one
             of
             the
             Pastaiques
             ;
             for
             the
             Weather
             was
             very
             hot
             ,
             and
             you
             know
             that
             those
             who
             are
             not
             accustom'd
             to
             the
             Sea
             are
             usually
             very
             desirous
             of
             Fruit.
             To
             return
             to
             Scio.
             
          
           
             I
             went
             t'other
             day
             to
             see
             a
             Place
             call'd
             the
             Schools
             of
             Homer
             ,
             tho'
             according
             to
             all
             probability
             there
             were
             never
             any
             Schools
             in
             it
             .
             I
             incline
             rather
             to
             believe
             that
             't
             was
             formerly
             a
             Place
             where
             Sacrifices
             were
             offer'd
             to
             the
             God
             Pan
             ,
             or
             some
             other
             Rural
             Deity
             :
             for
             I
             saw
             nothing
             but
             a
             square
             Altar
             cut
             out
             of
             a
             Rock
             ,
             on
             the
             Shore
             ,
             with
             some
             decay'd
             Basso-Relievo's
             on
             the
             Sides
             ,
             among
             which
             you
             may
             distinguish
             the
             Representation
             of
             an
             
               Oxe
               ,
               Wolf
               ,
               Sbeep
            
             ,
             and
             Rabbet
             ,
             besides
             some
             other
             Beasts
             which
             are
             less
             distinct
             .
             Not
             far
             from
             thence
             I
             saw
             a
             paltry
             Village
             ,
             where
             they
             assur'd
             me
             Homer
             was
             born
             :
             but
             Smyrna
             pretends
             a
             better
             Title
             to
             the
             Honour
             of
             being
             the
             Birth-place
             of
             that
             great
             Man.
             
          
           
             I
             observ'd
             nothing
             else
             remarkable
             in
             this
             Island
             ,
             except
             their
             Manner
             of
             Living
             ,
             which
             is
             extremely
             free
             :
             for
             they
             give
             and
             receive
             Visits
             ,
             make
             Entertainments
             ,
             and
             the
             Women
             sit
             at
             the
             Doors
             of
             the
             Houses
             ,
             and
             walk
             with
             Young
             Men
             to
             the
             Fields
             ,
             with
             as
             much
             Liberty
             as
             if
             they
             were
             in
             France
             .
             Besides
             they
             are
             of
             a
             very
             sociable
             Humour
             ,
             and
             any
             Frenchman
             ,
             who
             is
             Master
             of
             a
             tolerable
             Stock
             of
             Wit
             ,
             may
             quickly
             find
             a
             Mistress
             ,
             and
             even
             sometimes
             an
             advantageous
             Match
             in
             this
             Place
             .
             For
             
             't
             is
             the
             highest
             Ambition
             of
             the
             Women
             of
             this
             Island
             to
             marry
             a
             Frank
             ;
             both
             because
             they
             are
             naturally
             of
             a
             freer
             Temper
             than
             the
             Men
             of
             the
             Country
             ,
             and
             are
             not
             subject
             to
             the
             
               Grand
               Signior
            
             ,
             nor
             consequently
             pay
             any
             Avanies
             ,
             Taxes
             ,
             or
             Imposts
             ;
             which
             are
             two
             very
             considerable
             Advantages
             .
          
           
             This
             is
             the
             only
             Island
             in
             the
             Levant
             ,
             where
             the
             Custom
             of
             wearing
             
               long
               Garments
            
             does
             not
             prevail
             :
             for
             the
             Sciots
             retain'd
             the
             Fashion
             us'd
             by
             the
             Franks
             ,
             after
             their
             Subjection
             to
             the
             Turks
             .
             They
             still
             use
             Doublets
             or
             Wast-coats
             ,
             Breeches
             ,
             and
             Shooes
             ;
             and
             besides
             they
             wear
             their
             Hair
             long
             :
             but
             we
             have
             chang'd
             so
             many
             Fashions
             since
             that
             time
             ,
             that
             they
             who
             have
             still
             kept
             that
             which
             was
             then
             in
             use
             appear
             very
             ridiculous
             at
             present
             .
             Their
             Hats
             have
             broad
             Brims
             ,
             not
             cock'd
             up
             ,
             and
             tapering
             Crowns
             ,
             somewhat
             resembling
             a
             Sugar-Loaf
             :
             the
             Sleeves
             of
             their
             Doublets
             are
             wide
             and
             open
             ,
             but
             close
             at
             the
             Wrist
             :
             their
             Breeches
             are
             open
             below
             ,
             edg'd
             with
             Ribbons
             ,
             and
             their
             Drawers
             appear
             under
             'em
             :
             their
             Shooes
             have
             large
             open
             Ears
             ,
             and
             are
             sharp-pointed
             at
             the
             Toe
             ,
             as
             they
             were
             usually
             made
             in
             our
             Country
             about
             Twenty
             Years
             ago
             .
             The
             Womens
             Habit
             is
             not
             different
             from
             that
             which
             is
             us'd
             by
             the
             Common
             People
             in
             
               Bretagne
               ,
               Maine
               ,
               Normandy
            
             ,
             and
             some
             other
             Parts
             of
             France
             .
             For
             they
             wear
             a
             kind
             of
             short
             Cassock
             ,
             fasten'd
             with
             a
             Lace
             before
             ,
             and
             over
             that
             another
             of
             Silk
             Stuff
             ,
             of
             which
             there
             is
             a
             great
             deal
             made
             in
             the
             Island
             .
             This
             Cassock
             ,
             which
             the
             Maids
             of
             my
             Country
             wou'd
             call
             a
             Waste-coat
             ,
             reaches
             not
             below
             the
             Middle
             of
             the
             Thigh
             ,
             and
             the
             Sleeves
             which
             are
             not
             very
             long
             ,
             are
             tied
             up
             a
             little
             below
             the
             Bending
             of
             the
             Arm
             ,
             for
             the
             Conveniency
             of
             wearing
             Silken
             Gloves
             ,
             which
             are
             also
             made
             in
             Scio
             ,
             and
             are
             not
             unhandsome
             .
             Besides
             they
             have
             a
             kind
             of
             Petty-Coat
             ,
             in
             which
             there
             are
             (
             I
             believe
             )
             thirty
             Ells
             of
             Stuff
             ,
             for
             't
             is
             pleited
             
             quite
             round
             ,
             except
             on
             the
             Fore-part
             ,
             and
             these
             Foldings
             are
             all
             of
             an
             equal
             Depth
             ,
             and
             sew'd
             together
             :
             this
             Petty-coat
             is
             so
             short
             ,
             that
             it
             hides
             not
             above
             one
             half
             of
             their
             Legs
             :
             and
             they
             are
             always
             very
             careful
             to
             wear
             fine
             and
             tight
             Stockins
             ,
             lest
             that
             which
             appears
             shou'd
             give
             a
             Man
             an
             ill
             Opinion
             of
             what
             is
             conceal'd
             .
             In
             their
             Head-Dress
             they
             differ
             both
             from
             the
             Franks
             and
             Levantines
             ;
             for
             it
             consists
             only
             in
             a
             Piece
             of
             Cloth
             wrapp'd
             about
             their
             Heads
             .
          
           
             There
             are
             in
             this
             Island
             several
             Families
             that
             pretend
             to
             Nobility
             ,
             and
             even
             some
             that
             draw
             their
             Pedigree
             from
             the
             Justiniani
             ;
             but
             their
             Education
             ,
             and
             Way
             of
             Living
             ,
             is
             so
             unsuitable
             to
             their
             high
             Birth
             ,
             that
             't
             wou'd
             seem
             altogether
             incredible
             ,
             if
             it
             were
             not
             attested
             by
             all
             the
             Inhabitants
             of
             the
             Island
             .
          
           
             I
             am
             ,
             
               SIR
               ,
            
             
               Your
               &c.
               
            
             
               Scio
               ,
               
                 Decemb.
                 1690.
                 
              
            
          
        
         
           
             LETTER
             XVI
             .
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
          
           
             WE
             set
             said
             from
             Scio
             on
             the
             20
             th
             .
             of
             the
             last
             Month
             ,
             and
             two
             Days
             after
             were
             in
             the
             Height
             of
             Stanchio
             ,
             a
             little
             Island
             ,
             famous
             for
             the
             Birth
             of
             Hippocrates
             ,
             and
             the
             celebrated
             Apelles
             ;
             and
             for
             a
             Tree
             of
             such
             prodigious
             Bigness
             ,
             that
             its
             Shadow
             is
             large
             enough
             to
             cover
             150
             Men.
             I
             cannot
             give
             you
             a
             more
             particular
             Account
             of
             that
             Island
             ,
             since
             we
             stopt
             not
             there
             ,
             but
             kept
             on
             our
             Course
             till
             we
             
             arriv'd
             at
             Rhodes
             on
             Christmass-Day
             :
             Instead
             of
             a
             large
             Description
             of
             this
             Island
             ,
             you
             must
             content
             your self
             with
             an
             Account
             of
             what
             Observations
             I
             could
             make
             in
             the
             narrow
             space
             of
             half
             a
             Day
             .
          
           
             The
             Island
             of
             Rhodes
             is
             a
             hundred
             Miles
             in
             Compass
             :
             'T
             was
             taken
             from
             the
             Saracens
             by
             the
             Knights
             of
             
               S.
               John
               of
               Jerusalem
            
             ,
             on
             the
             Day
             of
             the
             
               Virgin
               's
               Assumption
               ,
               Ann.
            
             1309.
             and
             retaken
             by
             Solyman
             II.
             Emperour
             of
             the
             Turks
             ,
             in
             the
             Year
             1522.
             by
             the
             Treachery
             of
             
               Andrew
               d'
               Amaral
            
             ,
             one
             of
             the
             Knights
             ,
             and
             Chancellour
             of
             the
             Order
             ;
             who
             aspiring
             to
             the
             Dignity
             of
             the
             
               Great
               Master
            
             ;
             and
             being
             disappointed
             of
             his
             Hopes
             to
             attain
             it
             ,
             by
             the
             Election
             of
             
               Monsieur
               de
               Villiers
               l'
               Ile
               Adam
            
             to
             that
             Office
             ,
             was
             so
             enrag'd
             ,
             that
             he
             shot
             an
             Arrow
             into
             the
             Enemy's
             Camp
             ,
             with
             a
             Letter
             discovering
             the
             only
             Place
             where
             the
             Town
             cou'd
             be
             successfully
             attack'd
             .
          
           
             The
             City
             is
             little
             ,
             but
             extremely
             strong
             ,
             both
             by
             reason
             of
             its
             Situation
             on
             a
             Rock
             ,
             and
             the
             great
             number
             of
             Bastions
             and
             Towers
             that
             command
             one
             another
             very
             advantageously
             .
             The
             
               Great
               Masters
            
             House
             ,
             and
             the
             Inns
             of
             the
             
               Seven
               Languages
            
             remain
             still
             entire
             ,
             and
             the
             same
             may
             be
             said
             of
             the
             Church
             of
             S.
             John
             ,
             tho'
             the
             Turks
             have
             turn'd
             it
             into
             a
             Mosquee
             ,
             for
             they
             have
             not
             so
             much
             as
             defac'd
             the
             Images
             of
             our
             Saviour
             and
             the
             Virgin
             ,
             represented
             over
             the
             Door
             in
             Bass-Relief
             .
             Tho'
             I
             had
             not
             known
             that
             this
             Island
             belong'd
             formerly
             to
             the
             Knights
             of
             Malta
             ,
             I
             shou'd
             have
             easily
             discover'd
             it
             by
             the
             great
             number
             of
             Inscriptions
             ,
             and
             Scutcheons
             of
             the
             Order
             ,
             that
             are
             over
             the
             Gate
             of
             the
             City
             ,
             and
             almost
             every
             where
             else
             .
             And
             besides
             there
             are
             so
             many
             other
             ancient
             Monuments
             of
             the
             same
             Nature
             ,
             that
             I
             never
             saw
             so
             vast
             a
             number
             of
             Inscriptions
             in
             so
             small
             a
             Spot
             of
             Ground
             .
          
           
             'T
             is
             related
             in
             the
             History
             of
             the
             Order
             ,
             that
             this
             Island
             was
             formerly
             infested
             by
             a
             horrible
             Dragon
             ,
             
             above
             thirty
             Foot
             long
             ,
             who
             abode
             in
             a
             Cave
             not
             far
             from
             the
             City
             ,
             and
             made
             such
             a
             dreadful
             Havock
             all
             around
             ,
             that
             there
             was
             no
             Safety
             in
             the
             Country
             .
             The
             Story
             adds
             ,
             that
             his
             very
             Breath
             infected
             all
             the
             Neighbourhood
             of
             his
             Cave
             ,
             and
             that
             his
             Skin
             was
             so
             hard
             ,
             that
             no
             Arrow
             cou'd
             pierce
             it
             ,
             but
             that
             he
             was
             kill'd
             at
             last
             by
             a
             Knight
             of
             Provence
             ,
             call'd
             
               Dedoat
               de
               Goson
            
             .
             I
             always
             suspected
             the
             Credit
             of
             this
             Relation
             ,
             but
             mine
             Eyes
             have
             now
             convinc'd
             me
             of
             the
             Truth
             of
             it
             :
             for
             the
             Monster
             's
             Head
             is
             on
             one
             of
             the
             Gates
             of
             the
             City
             towards
             the
             Land
             ,
             and
             I
             had
             time
             to
             take
             a
             full
             View
             of
             it
             .
             I
             cannot
             represent
             it
             better
             than
             by
             comparing
             it
             to
             the
             Head
             of
             a
             Hog
             ;
             only
             't
             is
             longer
             and
             bigger
             ,
             and
             hath
             no
             Ears
             ;
             the
             Jaws
             are
             very
             large
             ,
             and
             arm'd
             with
             long
             and
             sharp
             Teeth
             .
          
           
             Since
             I
             am
             not
             over-fond
             of
             believing
             any
             thing
             that
             seems
             strange
             and
             unaccountable
             ,
             I
             must
             beg
             leave
             to
             persist
             in
             my
             Incredulity
             ,
             concerning
             the
             Famous
             Colossus
             ,
             which
             was
             formerly
             the
             Glory
             and
             Ornament
             of
             this
             Island
             .
          
           
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             
               Strabo
               ,
               Pliny
            
             ,
             and
             several
             other
             Grave
             Writers
             ,
             seem
             to
             believe
             this
             Story
             :
             but
             Authors
             as
             well
             as
             other
             Men
             ,
             take
             Pleasure
             in
             relating
             Wonders
             .
             This
             was
             the
             usual
             Custom
             of
             the
             Ancients
             ,
             especially
             Pliny
             and
             Herodotus
             ,
             who
             have
             stuff'd
             their
             Writings
             with
             such
             lofty
             Fables
             ,
             as
             the
             Reader
             may
             easily
             perceive
             by
             a
             transient
             View
             of
             their
             Works
             .
             And
             besides
             when
             an
             Author
             of
             any
             considerable
             Reputation
             in
             the
             Learned
             World
             relates
             a
             Matter
             of
             Fact
             ,
             't
             is
             always
             confirm'd
             by
             the
             Testimony
             of
             those
             who
             follow
             him
             .
             Nevertheless
             in
             this
             Case
             ,
             the
             Opinions
             of
             Authors
             are
             very
             different
             ;
             for
             Chares
             according
             to
             some
             ,
             erected
             the
             Colossus
             ,
             whereas
             others
             ascribe
             that
             Honour
             to
             Lacches
             :
             some
             with
             Strabo
             relate
             ,
             that
             't
             was
             
               seventy
               Cubits
            
             high
             ;
             and
             others
             affirm
             that
             its
             Height
             amounted
             to
             Eighty
             ;
             so
             that
             the
             Story
             is
             at
             the
             best
             doubtful
             and
             uncertain
             .
             
             But
             to
             examine
             the
             Matter
             more
             narrowly
             ,
             the
             largest
             Computation
             of
             the
             Heighth
             of
             the
             Colossus
             will
             hardly
             amount
             to
             what
             is
             requir'd
             by
             the
             Circumstances
             of
             the
             Story
             :
             for
             the
             Breadth
             of
             the
             Port
             of
             Rhodes
             ,
             between
             the
             opposite
             Shores
             ,
             where
             the
             Feet
             of
             the
             Colossus
             are
             said
             to
             have
             been
             fix'd
             ,
             amounts
             to
             324
             measur'd
             Feet
             ,
             so
             that
             the
             whole
             Figure
             must
             have
             been
             500
             Foot
             high
             .
             And
             besides
             how
             is
             it
             possible
             to
             conceive
             that
             a
             Mass
             of
             such
             a
             Prodigious
             Bigness
             cou'd
             be
             cast
             .
             I
             know
             some
             pretend
             that
             't
             was
             built
             by
             Pieces
             ,
             and
             that
             it
             consisted
             only
             of
             Stone
             lin'd
             with
             Brass
             ;
             but
             this
             Opinion
             as
             well
             as
             the
             other
             is
             clogg'd
             with
             unsurmountable
             Difficulties
             ,
             as
             't
             will
             appear
             from
             the
             following
             Reflexions
             .
          
           
             The
             tallest
             of
             the
             
               Egyptian
               Pyramids
            
             ,
             which
             are
             justly
             reckon'd
             among
             the
             
               Wonders
               of
               the
               World
            
             ,
             cou'd
             not
             be
             rais'd
             above
             520
             Foot
             high
             ;
             and
             the
             Tower
             of
             Strasburgh
             ,
             which
             has
             not
             (
             and
             perhaps
             never
             had
             )
             its
             equal
             in
             the
             World
             ,
             does
             not
             exceed
             560
             Feet
             .
             Now
             these
             admirable
             Buildings
             have
             sufficient
             Bases
             or
             Foundations
             ,
             to
             support
             the
             Weight
             of
             the
             Superstructure
             ;
             whereas
             this
             enormous
             Figure
             must
             have
             been
             four
             times
             bigger
             above
             than
             below
             ,
             without
             reck'ning
             the
             Arms
             that
             hung
             down
             ,
             or
             at
             least
             one
             of
             'em
             which
             carry'd
             a
             Lanthorn
             ,
             and
             (
             if
             the
             Story
             be
             true
             )
             could
             not
             be
             made
             but
             by
             the
             Architects
             whom
             Aesop
             sent
             to
             King
             Nectanebus
             .
             I
             will
             not
             insist
             upon
             the
             equal
             poising
             of
             so
             great
             a
             Mass
             ,
             which
             was
             both
             absolutely
             necessary
             ,
             and
             extremely
             difficult
             in
             this
             Case
             ;
             but
             shall
             proceed
             to
             more
             obvious
             Reasons
             .
             'T
             is
             said
             that
             after
             this
             Colossus
             was
             overthrown
             by
             an
             Earthquake
             ,
             it
             remain'd
             where
             it
             fell
             till
             the
             Year
             656
             ,
             or
             according
             to
             others
             952
             ,
             which
             is
             a
             new
             Controversie
             ;
             and
             that
             the
             Saracens
             broke
             it
             to
             pieces
             ,
             and
             sold
             the
             Brass
             to
             a
             Jew
             ,
             who
             carry'd
             it
             to
             Antioch
             .
             And
             here
             we
             meet
             with
             another
             Variation
             in
             the
             Relations
             of
             Authors
             ;
             for
             tho'
             most
             are
             agreed
             that
             900
             Camels
             
             were
             loaded
             with
             the
             Brass
             ,
             there
             are
             some
             that
             reduce
             the
             Number
             to
             800
             ,
             but
             neither
             of
             these
             Opinions
             is
             well
             grounded
             .
          
           
             Now
             ,
             Sir
             ,
             I
             wou'd
             gladly
             be
             inform'd
             where
             the
             Colossus
             fell
             ;
             and
             they
             who
             maintain
             the
             Truth
             of
             this
             Story
             ,
             will
             perhaps
             find
             this
             to
             be
             a
             more
             puzzling
             Question
             than
             they
             imagine
             .
             For
             considering
             the
             Situation
             of
             its
             Legs
             ,
             they
             cannot
             pretend
             that
             it
             fell
             towards
             the
             Land
             ,
             and
             consequently
             they
             must
             acknowledge
             that
             it
             tumbl'd
             into
             the
             Sea
             ,
             where
             it
             cou'd
             not
             lie
             without
             stopping
             the
             Mouth
             of
             the
             Harbour
             ;
             nor
             cou'd
             that
             be
             done
             without
             ruining
             the
             Trade
             of
             the
             City
             ,
             on
             which
             all
             its
             Riches
             depended
             .
             But
             these
             necessary
             Consequences
             of
             this
             Supposition
             ,
             are
             directly
             contradicted
             by
             History
             ,
             which
             assures
             us
             ,
             that
             Rhodes
             was
             a
             very
             flourishing
             City
             ,
             and
             that
             its
             Port
             was
             as
             good
             and
             as
             much
             frequented
             ,
             as
             ever
             ,
             at
             the
             Arrival
             of
             the
             Saracens
             .
          
           
             But
             this
             is
             not
             the
             only
             Absurdity
             that
             destroys
             the
             Credit
             of
             the
             Story
             .
             T
             is
             well
             known
             that
             a
             Camel's
             Burthen
             never
             exceeds
             five
             or
             six
             hundred
             Weight
             ,
             especially
             when
             the
             Journey
             is
             considerably
             long
             :
             and
             how
             then
             cou'd
             900
             of
             those
             Animals
             carry
             away
             so
             prodigious
             a
             Quantity
             of
             Brass
             .
             For
             you
             will
             find
             by
             Calculation
             ,
             that
             every
             Foot
             in
             the
             Heighth
             of
             the
             Colossus
             ,
             (
             reckoning
             'em
             one
             with
             another
             )
             weigh'd
             above
             3000
             Pounds
             ;
             since
             't
             is
             computed
             that
             a
             square
             Foot
             of
             that
             Metal
             ,
             containing
             an
             Inch
             in
             Thickness
             ,
             weighs
             above
             fifty
             Pounds
             .
             Now
             't
             is
             plain
             ,
             that
             the
             very
             encompassing
             of
             the
             ●ody
             of
             the
             Colossus
             wou'd
             require
             much
             more
             than
             sixty
             such
             Pieces
             ,
             which
             according
             to
             the
             above-mention●d
             Computation
             ,
             amount
             to
             1500
             Pounds
             ,
             without
             reckoning
             the
             Overplus
             ;
             and
             by
             the
             same
             Proportion
             you
             may
             guess
             at
             the
             Quantity
             of
             Brass
             that
             wou'd
             have
             been
             necessary
             for
             lining
             the
             whole
             Figure
             .
          
           
           
             This
             Colossus
             puts
             me
             in
             mind
             of
             the
             extravagant
             Proposal
             made
             to
             Alexander
             the
             Great
             by
             an
             Architect
             call'd
             Dinocrates
             ,
             who
             undertook
             to
             build
             a
             City
             on
             Mount
             Atlas
             ,
             and
             to
             cut
             it
             into
             the
             Shape
             of
             a
             Man
             ,
             with
             a
             Cup
             in
             his
             Hand
             disgorging
             a
             River
             .
             Cou'd
             ever
             a
             more
             ridiculous
             Chimaera
             enter
             into
             a
             distemper'd
             Brain
             ?
             But
             the
             Ancients
             cou'd
             easily
             swallow
             the
             greatest
             Absurdity
             ,
             and
             there
             are
             still
             too
             many
             profess'd
             Adorers
             of
             those
             fabulous
             Writers
             ,
             who
             defend
             all
             their
             Lies
             and
             Mistakes
             with
             a
             stupid
             Obstinacy
             .
             As
             for
             my
             part
             ,
             I
             confess
             my
             Faith
             is
             so
             weak
             on
             such
             Occasions
             ,
             that
             I
             cannot
             forbear
             suspecting
             the
             Truth
             of
             the
             Story
             of
             the
             
               Rhodian
               Colossus
            
             .
             At
             least
             since
             I
             have
             so
             much
             Complaisance
             to
             the
             Authors
             that
             attest
             it
             ,
             as
             to
             keep
             my self
             from
             denying
             it
             absolutely
             ;
             I
             hope
             they
             will
             give
             me
             leave
             to
             think
             that
             't
             was
             somewhat
             smaller
             ,
             less
             wonderful
             ,
             and
             situated
             in
             another
             Place
             ,
             than
             they
             imagine
             :
             for
             a
             much
             less
             incredible
             Bulk
             will
             suffice
             ,
             if
             we
             suppose
             that
             't
             was
             plac'd
             at
             the
             Mouth
             of
             the
             Harbour
             for
             Galleys
             .
             However
             I
             dare
             not
             venture
             to
             assure
             you
             that
             I
             have
             seen
             the
             Place
             where
             the
             Colossus
             of
             the
             Sun
             stood
             ,
             but
             only
             where
             't
             is
             believ'd
             it
             stood
             :
             for
             thus
             I
             shall
             be
             sure
             to
             keep
             close
             to
             the
             Truth
             ,
             which
             I
             have
             always
             made
             the
             Standard
             of
             my
             Relations
             .
          
           
             We
             stay'd
             part
             of
             a
             Day
             at
             Rhodes
             ,
             and
             set
             Sail
             the
             same
             Night
             with
             a
             fair
             Wind
             ;
             but
             a
             sudden
             Change
             of
             Weather
             oblig'd
             us
             to
             stand
             in
             to
             the
             Road
             of
             Cyprus
             .
          
           
             Cyprus
             is
             an
             Island
             almost
             of
             the
             same
             Bigness
             with
             Rhodes
             .
             The
             Air
             is
             so
             sweet
             ,
             clear
             ,
             and
             temperate
             ,
             that
             the
             Weather
             is
             perpetually
             fair
             ;
             at
             least
             I
             can
             assure
             you
             ,
             that
             during
             the
             little
             time
             we
             spent
             in
             it
             ,
             I
             cou'd
             not
             perceive
             the
             least
             Sign
             of
             Winter
             .
             It
             produces
             great
             Abundance
             of
             Sugar
             ,
             Cotton
             ,
             and
             delicious
             Wine
             :
             besides
             't
             is
             the
             best
             Country
             in
             the
             World
             for
             Hunting
             ,
             and
             Provisions
             
             are
             so
             incredibly
             cheap
             ,
             that
             ,
             as
             the
             
               French
               Consul
            
             assur'd
             me
             ,
             the
             greatest
             Lover
             of
             his
             Belly
             cannot
             spend
             Forty
             Piasters
             a
             Year
             in
             Eating
             and
             Drinking
             .
             The
             Town
             is
             neither
             large
             nor
             neat
             ,
             inhabited
             by
             a
             Medley
             of
             Turks
             and
             Christians
             ,
             as
             all
             other
             Places
             under
             the
             Grand
             Signior's
             Dominion
             .
             I
             saw
             a
             Man
             in
             it
             that
             had
             four
             Arms
             ,
             two
             on
             each
             Side
             ,
             one
             above
             the
             other
             ,
             but
             he
             cou'd
             only
             use
             the
             lower
             .
             The
             27
             th
             .
             in
             the
             Morning
             we
             set
             Sail
             ,
             and
             arriv'd
             at
             Alexandria
             on
             the
             8
             th
             .
             instant
             towards
             Noon
             .
          
           
             The
             Land
             lies
             so
             extremely
             low
             ,
             that
             tho'
             the
             Sun
             shone
             very
             bright
             ,
             we
             cou'd
             not
             discover
             the
             Coast
             ,
             till
             we
             were
             very
             near
             it
             .
             At
             the
             same
             time
             we
             perceiv'd
             a
             Saique
             making
             towards
             us
             ,
             with
             a
             Pilot
             and
             four
             Officers
             of
             the
             Custom-House
             .
             Perhaps
             most
             of
             us
             wou'd
             have
             willingly
             dispens'd
             with
             the
             last
             of
             our
             Visitants
             ;
             but
             we
             stood
             very
             much
             in
             need
             of
             the
             Pilot's
             Help
             ,
             for
             both
             the
             Road
             and
             Harbour
             are
             extremely
             dangerous
             ,
             by
             reason
             of
             the
             lurking
             Rocks
             that
             can
             hardly
             be
             avoided
             without
             the
             Assistance
             of
             a
             Seaman
             of
             the
             Country
             .
             At
             last
             having
             cast
             Anchor
             very
             happily
             ,
             I
             went
             a-shore
             in
             the
             Saique
             .
             As
             I
             pass'd
             by
             the
             Custom-House
             ,
             I
             was
             somewhat
             surpriz'd
             at
             the
             unusual
             Exactness
             of
             the
             Officers
             ;
             for
             they
             search'd
             me
             all
             over
             ,
             and
             even
             thrust
             their
             Hands
             into
             my
             Breeches
             ,
             to
             know
             whether
             I
             had
             brought
             any
             Gold
             or
             Silver
             ,
             which
             pay
             a
             considerable
             Impost
             to
             the
             
               Grand
               Signior
            
             ,
             commonly
             call'd
             Gold-Duty
             .
             But
             I
             was
             much
             more
             surpriz'd
             at
             Night
             ,
             when
             they
             came
             to
             shut
             us
             up
             like
             so
             many
             Prisoners
             ,
             as
             they
             do
             every
             Night
             in
             the
             Week
             ,
             and
             on
             Fridays
             at
             Noon
             ;
             by
             reason
             of
             a
             foolish
             Prophecy
             ,
             that
             foretells
             the
             Conquest
             of
             the
             City
             by
             the
             Franks
             .
             For
             since
             't
             wou'd
             be
             very
             troublesome
             to
             shut
             as
             many
             Doors
             as
             there
             are
             Franks
             in
             the
             Town
             ,
             all
             those
             who
             bear
             that
             Name
             are
             oblig'd
             to
             lodge
             in
             certain
             spacious
             Hans
             ,
             call'd
             Fondies
             ,
             which
             having
             but
             one
             Gate
             or
             Door
             ,
             are
             
             quickly
             secur'd
             .
             The
             
               French
               ,
               English
            
             ,
             and
             Dutch
             have
             each
             a
             distinct
             Han
             ,
             where
             they
             live
             ,
             without
             medling
             in
             the
             least
             with
             one
             another's
             business
             ,
             either
             in
             Peace
             or
             War.
             The
             Merchants
             who
             reside
             here
             are
             for
             the
             most
             part
             only
             Factors
             to
             answer
             the
             Commissions
             of
             their
             Correspondents
             in
             Christendom
             :
             Nor
             can
             this
             City
             be
             reckon'd
             as
             a
             place
             of
             Commerce
             ,
             unless
             by
             the
             bye
             ,
             for
             no
             considerable
             Caravans
             come
             hither
             ,
             and
             Aleppo
             is
             properly
             the
             Seat
             of
             Trade
             ,
             and
             Residence
             of
             the
             Consuls
             .
          
           
             The
             famous
             City
             of
             Alexandria
             ,
             admir'd
             in
             former
             Ages
             for
             its
             Extent
             and
             Beauty
             ,
             is
             now
             a
             wretched
             heap
             of
             Cottages
             ,
             that
             seem
             to
             have
             been
             built
             on
             purpose
             to
             insult
             over
             the
             deplorable
             fate
             of
             the
             Ruins
             on
             which
             they
             are
             founded
             .
             There
             cannot
             be
             a
             more
             lively
             Instance
             of
             the
             frailty
             of
             human
             Grandeur
             ,
             than
             those
             rich
             Fragments
             of
             
               Marble
               ,
               Porphyry
            
             ,
             and
             Granite
             ,
             that
             are
             every
             where
             to
             be
             seen
             mixt
             with
             Earth
             ,
             Wood
             ,
             and
             Stone
             .
             The
             whole
             City
             is
             as
             it
             were
             buri'd
             under
             the
             Ruines
             of
             overturn'd
             Palaces
             ;
             and
             't
             is
             impossible
             to
             behold
             that
             magnificent
             Rubbish
             ,
             without
             reflecting
             with
             a
             certain
             Melancholic
             Pleasure
             on
             the
             ancient
             Splendor
             of
             these
             celebrated
             Structures
             .
             But
             since
             I
             have
             reason
             to
             believe
             that
             such
             general
             Remarks
             wou'd
             not
             satisfie
             your
             Curiosity
             ,
             I
             shall
             proceed
             to
             give
             you
             a
             more
             particular
             account
             of
             the
             admirable
             Remains
             of
             Alexandria
             .
          
           
             It
             appears
             by
             the
             Walls
             (
             which
             are
             not
             so
             ruinous
             as
             the
             Houses
             )
             that
             the
             compass
             of
             the
             City
             amounted
             to
             Ten
             Miles
             :
             But
             they
             are
             infinitely
             more
             remarkable
             for
             their
             Beauty
             and
             Magnificence
             ,
             than
             for
             the
             largeness
             of
             their
             Extent
             .
             They
             are
             20
             Foot
             thick
             throughout
             ,
             and
             join'd
             with
             a
             certain
             Cement
             as
             hard
             as
             Stone
             :
             From
             space
             to
             space
             they
             are
             flank'd
             with
             great
             square
             Towers
             ,
             which
             are
             so
             strong
             and
             massive
             that
             they
             
             appear
             like
             so
             many
             Castles
             ;
             and
             within
             each
             Tower
             there
             are
             Cisterns
             ,
             Halls
             ,
             and
             a
             sufficient
             number
             of
             Chambers
             to
             lodge
             at
             least
             100
             Men.
             But
             ,
             which
             is
             still
             more
             convenient
             and
             useful
             ,
             there
             are
             Casemates
             under
             the
             Walls
             round
             the
             whole
             City
             ,
             in
             which
             ,
             together
             with
             the
             Towers
             ,
             there
             was
             room
             enough
             to
             lodge
             50000
             Men
             ,
             who
             were
             always
             ready
             either
             to
             appear
             in
             Arms
             on
             the
             Walls
             in
             case
             of
             necessity
             ,
             or
             to
             march
             upon
             occasion
             to
             any
             place
             in
             the
             City
             .
             The
             Walls
             are
             also
             surrounded
             with
             good
             False-brays
             ,
             which
             are
             still
             entire
             ;
             and
             if
             you
             add
             to
             these
             a
             broad
             ,
             deep
             ,
             and
             well-lin'd
             Ditch
             ,
             I
             think
             there
             cou'd
             not
             be
             more
             desir'd
             in
             that
             Age
             ,
             for
             the
             security
             and
             defence
             of
             any
             City
             .
          
           
             Among
             all
             the
             ruinous
             Beauties
             of
             Alexandria
             ,
             there
             is
             none
             more
             remarkable
             than
             
               Caesar's
               Palace
            
             .
             'T
             was
             certainly
             a
             very
             large
             Building
             ,
             and
             if
             I
             may
             be
             allow'd
             to
             judge
             of
             the
             rest
             by
             the
             Front
             which
             remains
             still
             entire
             ,
             I
             may
             venture
             to
             assure
             you
             that
             't
             was
             a
             noble
             and
             compleat
             Work.
             I
             observ'd
             also
             several
             Columns
             of
             Pophyry
             and
             spotted
             
               Green
               Marble
            
             ,
             which
             heighten'd
             the
             Idea
             I
             had
             already
             conceiv'd
             of
             its
             Magnificence
             .
             Near
             these
             stately
             Ruines
             there
             are
             others
             equal
             to
             'em
             in
             all
             respects
             ,
             and
             no
             less
             rich
             in
             Porphyry
             and
             Granite
             ,
             which
             are
             said
             to
             be
             Fragments
             of
             the
             Ancient
             Palace
             of
             the
             Ptolomies
             :
             Besides
             a
             great
             number
             of
             others
             as
             admirable
             as
             either
             of
             the
             former
             .
             But
             't
             is
             so
             long
             since
             the
             City
             was
             demolish'd
             ,
             and
             the
             confusion
             is
             so
             great
             at
             present
             ,
             that
             't
             is
             impossible
             for
             the
             most
             curious
             Antiquary
             to
             distinguish
             the
             Foundations
             of
             so
             many
             Palaces
             and
             Temples
             .
             The
             only
             entire
             pieces
             that
             have
             escap'd
             the
             common
             Fate
             of
             the
             rest
             ,
             are
             the
             
               Column
               of
               Pompey
            
             ,
             and
             four
             Obelisks
             of
             Granite
             .
             'T
             is
             said
             the
             first
             was
             erected
             by
             Caesar
             ,
             to
             the
             Memory
             of
             Pompey
             :
             Some
             think
             't
             is
             a
             kind
             of
             Marble
             ,
             but
             others
             incline
             rather
             to
             believe
             that
             't
             was
             built
             
             of
             
               melted
               Stone
            
             ,
             cast
             in
             Moulds
             upon
             the
             place
             .
             The
             latter
             Opinion
             seems
             most
             probable
             ,
             for
             there
             is
             not
             the
             least
             piece
             of
             that
             Stone
             to
             be
             found
             in
             any
             part
             of
             the
             World
             ,
             and
             the
             Pillar
             is
             so
             prodigiously
             big
             and
             high
             ,
             that
             it
             cou'd
             hardly
             be
             erected
             without
             a
             Miracle
             .
             I
             know
             't
             is
             alledg'd
             by
             those
             who
             believe
             the
             Story
             of
             the
             
               Rhodian
               Colossus
            
             ,
             that
             the
             Ancients
             had
             the
             advantage
             of
             admirable
             Machines
             to
             raise
             such
             bulky
             Pieces
             :
             But
             I
             shou'd
             reckon
             my self
             extreamly
             oblig'd
             to
             these
             Gentlemen
             ,
             if
             they
             wou'd
             show
             me
             any
             probable
             reason
             why
             among
             so
             great
             a
             variety
             of
             Egyptian
             Monuments
             of
             Antiquity
             there
             is
             not
             one
             of
             Marble
             ,
             and
             by
             what
             an
             accountable
             accident
             the
             Stone
             call'd
             Granite
             ,
             which
             was
             then
             so
             common
             ,
             is
             now
             grown
             so
             scarce
             ,
             that
             the
             most
             curious
             Inquirers
             into
             the
             Works
             of
             Nature
             cannot
             find
             the
             least
             Fragment
             of
             it
             ;
             that
             was
             not
             employ'd
             in
             ancient
             Structures
             .
             And
             even
             tho'
             I
             shou'd
             suppose
             with
             my
             Adversaries
             ,
             that
             the
             Quarries
             out
             of
             which
             this
             Stone
             was
             dug
             were
             by
             degrees
             so
             entirely
             exhausted
             ,
             that
             there
             is
             not
             the
             least
             Footstep
             of
             'em
             left
             ;
             and
             that
             Nature
             her self
             has
             lost
             so
             much
             of
             ancient
             Vigour
             and
             Fecundity
             ,
             that
             she
             is
             not
             able
             to
             produce
             new
             ones
             :
             I
             may
             still
             be
             allow'd
             to
             ask
             why
             Granite
             was
             only
             us'd
             in
             Obelisks
             or
             Columns
             of
             a
             prodigious
             bigness
             :
             For
             if
             it
             were
             really
             a
             sort
             of
             Stone
             or
             Marble
             ,
             I
             see
             no
             reason
             why
             we
             might
             not
             find
             small
             pieces
             of
             it
             ,
             as
             well
             as
             of
             Porphyry
             ,
             and
             other
             precious
             kinds
             of
             Marble
             .
             These
             reflections
             ,
             in
             my
             Opinion
             ,
             may
             serve
             to
             confirm
             the
             Hypothesis
             of
             those
             who
             believe
             that
             all
             these
             admirable
             Monuments
             were
             actually
             cast
             in
             a
             Mould
             :
             And
             if
             they
             wou'd
             take
             the
             pains
             to
             view
             this
             Column
             attentively
             ,
             they
             wou'd
             soon
             be
             convinc'd
             by
             the
             testimony
             of
             their
             own
             Eyes
             ,
             that
             't
             is
             only
             a
             kind
             of
             Cement
             ,
             compos'd
             of
             Sand
             and
             calcin'd
             Stone
             ,
             not
             unlike
             to
             Mortar
             or
             Lime
             ,
             which
             grew
             
             hard
             by
             degrees
             .
             I
             will
             not
             pretend
             to
             determine
             by
             what
             Artifice
             those
             ancient
             Workmen
             kept
             the
             Cement
             from
             yielding
             or
             sliding
             till
             the
             Pillar
             was
             compleated
             ;
             tho'
             perhaps
             it
             might
             be
             probably
             alledg'd
             ,
             that
             they
             made
             a
             Mould
             of
             Stone
             or
             Wood
             ,
             besmear'd
             on
             the
             Inside
             with
             some
             fat
             or
             unctuous
             Substance
             ,
             to
             hinder
             the
             Matter
             from
             sticking
             to
             its
             cover
             ;
             and
             that
             after
             the
             Work
             was
             finish'd
             ,
             and
             the
             Column
             almost
             dry
             ,
             they
             broke
             the
             Mould
             that
             preserv'd
             the
             regularity
             of
             its
             Figure
             ,
             and
             kept
             it
             from
             falling
             .
          
           
             This
             Column
             is
             80
             Foot
             high
             ,
             and
             24
             in
             compass
             :
             'T
             is
             plac'd
             on
             a
             Marble
             Pedestal
             eight
             Foot
             square
             ,
             and
             crown'd
             at
             the
             top
             with
             a
             Chapiter
             of
             the
             same
             Granite
             ,
             of
             which
             the
             Pillar
             consists
             .
             I
             know
             not
             what
             Opinion
             you
             may
             have
             of
             the
             Ancient
             Engines
             ,
             but
             for
             my
             part
             I
             must
             confess
             ,
             whether
             I
             consider
             the
             weight
             or
             bulk
             of
             so
             vast
             a
             Mass
             ,
             I
             find
             it
             equally
             impossible
             to
             conceive
             that
             it
             cou'd
             be
             rais'd
             by
             the
             strongest
             and
             best
             contriv'd
             Machines
             that
             ever
             were
             Invented
             .
             The
             four
             Obelisks
             are
             also
             of
             Granite
             ,
             and
             adorn'd
             with
             Hieroglyphic
             Figures
             in
             Relief
             ,
             like
             that
             at
             Rome
             :
             Some
             of
             'em
             are
             standing
             ,
             and
             the
             rest
             fall'n
             .
          
           
             I
             cannot
             comprehend
             the
             reason
             that
             mov'd
             the
             Founders
             of
             Alexandria
             to
             chuse
             such
             an
             uninhabitable
             Country
             for
             the
             Seat
             of
             so
             stately
             a
             City
             .
             The
             Heat
             is
             so
             insupportable
             in
             the
             Summer
             that
             it
             makes
             all
             the
             Inhabitants
             as
             Tawny
             as
             they
             can
             possibly
             be
             ,
             without
             being
             quite
             Black.
             And
             ,
             which
             is
             still
             more
             incommodious
             ,
             they
             have
             no
             Fountains
             to
             qualifie
             the
             scorching
             Heat
             of
             the
             Climate
             :
             For
             the
             only
             Springs
             in
             Egypt
             are
             two
             that
             are
             at
             Cairo
             ,
             of
             which
             I
             may
             perhaps
             give
             you
             an
             account
             ,
             after
             I
             have
             seen
             '
             em
             .
             To
             supply
             ,
             in
             some
             measure
             ,
             these
             natural
             defects
             ,
             the
             Natives
             have
             contriv'd
             subterraneous
             Buildings
             ,
             which
             are
             no
             less
             admirable
             than
             the
             Palaces
             that
             formerly
             adorn'd
             Alexandria
             .
             For
             
             there
             are
             vast
             Cisterns
             under
             Ground
             ,
             Vaulted
             and
             under-prop'd
             with
             strong
             
             Marble-Pillars
             that
             support
             the
             weight
             of
             the
             Houses
             ,
             and
             of
             the
             City
             ,
             which
             is
             wholly
             built
             on
             these
             Caves
             .
             All
             the
             Cisterns
             are
             border'd
             with
             Streets
             ,
             as
             if
             they
             were
             Houses
             ,
             so
             that
             they
             seem
             to
             form
             a
             subterraneous
             City
             .
          
           
             This
             puts
             me
             in
             mind
             of
             the
             
               Roman
               Catacombs
            
             ,
             tho'
             they
             are
             much
             inferiour
             in
             beauty
             to
             the
             Alexandrian
             Cisterns
             :
             For
             the
             former
             are
             narrow
             ,
             low
             ,
             and
             unadorn'd
             ;
             whereas
             the
             latter
             are
             spacious
             ,
             enrich'd
             with
             Marble
             ,
             and
             in
             some
             parts
             with
             Porphyry
             :
             These
             Cisterns
             were
             fill'd
             with
             Water
             at
             the
             overflowing
             of
             the
             Nile
             ,
             by
             a
             large
             Canal
             call'd
             Khaalis
             ,
             which
             still
             brings
             Water
             from
             the
             River
             ,
             for
             the
             use
             of
             those
             few
             Inhabitants
             that
             are
             left
             in
             the
             City
             .
             The
             Canal
             is
             border'd
             with
             Gardens
             ,
             which
             are
             not
             beautiful
             ,
             tho'
             they
             contain
             a
             vast
             number
             of
             very
             large
             
               Orange
               ,
               Citron
            
             ,
             and
             
             Limon-Trees
             .
          
           
             If
             you
             reflect
             on
             the
             usual
             Custom
             of
             the
             Romans
             ,
             to
             imitate
             the
             Egyptians
             in
             every
             thing
             ,
             you
             will
             find
             your self
             oblig'd
             to
             acknowledge
             that
             't
             is
             at
             least
             a
             probable
             conjecture
             ,
             that
             the
             Catacombs
             of
             Rome
             were
             built
             after
             the
             Model
             of
             certain
             large
             Caves
             ,
             without
             the
             Walls
             of
             this
             City
             towards
             the
             Palace
             .
             These
             subterraneous
             Vaults
             are
             fifteen
             Foot
             square
             ,
             and
             eight
             or
             ten
             Foot
             high
             :
             And
             there
             are
             Tombs
             in
             the
             Walls
             cut
             out
             of
             the
             Rock
             ,
             like
             those
             in
             the
             
               Roman
               Catacombs
            
             ,
             but
             more
             artificially
             contriv'd
             ,
             and
             rank'd
             in
             better
             Order
             ,
             in
             which
             there
             are
             many
             entire
             Skeletons
             ,
             tho'
             t
             is
             perhaps
             above
             2000
             Years
             since
             they
             were
             laid
             there
             .
             The
             Entry
             of
             the
             Caves
             is
             very
             low
             and
             narrow
             ,
             for
             you
             must
             creep
             into
             a
             little
             hole
             ,
             and
             slide
             several
             paces
             downward
             before
             you
             come
             to
             the
             Vaults
             .
          
           
             This
             Country
             is
             Inhabited
             by
             a
             medley
             of
             several
             Nations
             ;
             natural
             
               Turks
               ,
               Moors
               ,
               Arabs
               ,
               Greeks
               ,
            
             
             and
             Jews
             .
             The
             Arabs
             are
             generally
             Free-booters
             ,
             infesting
             the
             Roads
             ,
             and
             rifling
             all
             the
             Passengers
             without
             Mercy
             ,
             so
             that
             't
             is
             extreamly
             dangerous
             to
             Travel
             without
             a
             numerous
             Company
             .
             Yet
             there
             are
             some
             of
             that
             Nation
             who
             live
             in
             the
             Cities
             ,
             and
             are
             more
             Civil
             than
             their
             Country-men
             in
             the
             Fields
             :
             But
             they
             all
             pretend
             to
             be
             Magicians
             ,
             and
             are
             so
             intoxicated
             with
             such
             Chimera's
             ,
             that
             one
             wou'd
             almost
             think
             they
             were
             seiz'd
             with
             a
             sort
             of
             Epidemical
             Madness
             .
             They
             have
             several
             ways
             of
             Divination
             ;
             for
             some
             of
             'em
             pretend
             to
             Inspiration
             ,
             others
             Prophecy
             by
             Visions
             ,
             and
             there
             are
             some
             who
             throw
             Beans
             into
             a
             Bag
             ,
             and
             after
             they
             have
             counted
             'em
             ,
             return
             answers
             to
             those
             who
             consult
             '
             em
             .
             Among
             all
             these
             Fortune-Tellers
             ,
             those
             who
             Divine
             by
             way
             of
             Vision
             ,
             are
             reckon'd
             the
             most
             skilful
             ,
             and
             are
             fewest
             in
             number
             :
             As
             for
             the
             rest
             ,
             the
             Streets
             are
             full
             of
             '
             em
             .
             I
             have
             heard
             several
             Instances
             of
             their
             Predictions
             ,
             both
             in
             Christendom
             ,
             and
             in
             this
             Countrey
             ,
             without
             giving
             Credit
             to
             any
             of
             'em
             ,
             because
             they
             were
             for
             the
             most
             part
             only
             second-hand
             Stories
             :
             But
             I
             'm
             extreamly
             puzl'd
             what
             to
             think
             of
             an
             account
             I
             had
             from
             the
             Master
             of
             our
             Ship
             ,
             for
             my
             Author
             is
             a
             Man
             of
             Honour
             ,
             and
             part
             of
             the
             Matter
             of
             fact
             is
             attested
             by
             all
             the
             French-men
             in
             Alexandria
             .
             The
             Story
             is
             this
             .
          
           
             Captain
             Carbonneau
             ,
             Master
             of
             the
             Ship
             ,
             call'd
             
               St.
               Augustin
            
             ,
             bound
             for
             this
             City
             ,
             was
             entrusted
             at
             Marseilles
             with
             a
             Bag
             of
             200
             Piasters
             of
             Sevil
             ,
             which
             he
             receiv'd
             without
             counting
             'em
             ,
             and
             oblig'd
             himself
             to
             make
             good
             the
             Summ.
             At
             his
             Arrival
             he
             deliver'd
             the
             Bag
             to
             the
             Person
             to
             whom
             it
             was
             directed
             ,
             who
             told
             the
             Money
             immediately
             ,
             and
             finding
             50
             Piasters
             wanting
             ,
             refus'd
             to
             receive
             it
             ,
             and
             entred
             an
             Action
             against
             the
             Captain
             for
             the
             Overplus
             .
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             Carbonneau
             made
             a
             diligent
             search
             on
             Board
             his
             Ship
             ,
             to
             discover
             who
             had
             stoln
             the
             50
             Piasters
             ;
             for
             he
             suspected
             his
             
             Clerk
             and
             Surgeon
             as
             the
             only
             Persons
             who
             had
             enter'd
             his
             Chamber
             :
             But
             finding
             that
             all
             his
             Inquiries
             were
             unsuccessful
             ,
             he
             resolv'd
             to
             consult
             an
             
               Arabian
               Sooth-sayer
            
             ,
             who
             was
             of
             the
             Visionary
             Tribe
             ,
             and
             reputed
             very
             skilful
             .
             After
             some
             time
             spent
             in
             Ceremonious
             Grimaces
             ,
             the
             Arab
             told
             him
             ,
             that
             he
             saw
             a
             Man
             ,
             whose
             Person
             he
             describ'd
             ,
             tell
             150
             Piasters
             into
             a
             Bag
             of
             strip'd
             Ticking
             ,
             and
             afterwards
             tye
             it
             up
             .
             The
             Captain
             perceiv'd
             that
             these
             Circumstances
             agreed
             exactly
             to
             the
             Bag
             and
             the
             Person
             who
             gave
             it
             him
             ;
             but
             not
             being
             entirely
             satisfi'd
             ,
             he
             entreated
             the
             Diviner
             to
             tell
             him
             positively
             ,
             whether
             there
             were
             only
             150
             Piasters
             put
             into
             the
             Bag
             ,
             or
             50
             of
             'em
             afterwards
             taken
             out
             .
             After
             some
             new
             Ceremonies
             ,
             the
             Sooth-sayer
             told
             him
             ,
             that
             he
             saw
             the
             same
             Person
             endeavour
             to
             put
             200
             Piasters
             into
             the
             Bag
             ,
             which
             not
             being
             large
             enough
             to
             hold
             them
             all
             ,
             there
             remain'd
             20
             that
             cou'd
             not
             be
             put
             in
             for
             want
             of
             room
             .
             'T
             is
             plain
             then
             ,
             added
             he
             ,
             that
             the
             compleat
             Summ
             neither
             was
             nor
             cou'd
             be
             put
             into
             the
             Bag
             :
             And
             if
             you
             make
             the
             Experiment
             ,
             you
             'll
             be
             convinc'd
             of
             the
             truth
             of
             what
             I
             say
             .
             Nor
             was
             he
             mistaken
             ,
             for
             't
             was
             found
             upon
             trial
             ,
             that
             the
             Bag
             was
             not
             large
             enough
             to
             contain
             200
             Piasters
             ,
             and
             
             Carbonneau's
             Adversary
             was
             so
             honest
             as
             to
             put
             a
             stop
             to
             the
             Action
             .
             This
             accident
             made
             a
             great
             noise
             among
             those
             of
             our
             Nation
             ;
             and
             the
             Captain
             was
             so
             extreamly
             surpriz'd
             at
             his
             Fortune-Teller's
             Skill
             ,
             that
             some
             days
             before
             his
             departure
             ,
             he
             went
             again
             to
             consult
             him
             concerning
             the
             Success
             of
             his
             Voyage
             .
             The
             Arab
             answer'd
             ,
             that
             he
             saw
             neither
             Fight
             ,
             Ship-wrack
             ,
             nor
             Arrival
             ,
             but
             only
             four
             Mariners
             ,
             whom
             he
             describ'd
             ,
             carrying
             Fire
             in
             their
             hands
             ;
             and
             therefore
             advis'd
             him
             to
             have
             an
             Eye
             upon
             'em
             ,
             and
             to
             prevent
             any
             accidents
             that
             might
             happen
             in
             his
             Vessel
             .
             Six
             days
             after
             the
             Captain
             having
             put
             out
             to
             Sea
             ,
             and
             intending
             to
             set
             Sail
             the
             next
             Morning
             ,
             
             the
             four
             Seamen
             ,
             whom
             the
             Arabian
             represented
             ,
             smoaking
             Tabacco
             between
             the
             Decks
             ,
             set
             Fire
             to
             some
             Bales
             of
             Wool
             that
             were
             part
             of
             the
             Lading
             ,
             and
             the
             Ship
             was
             entirely
             consum'd
             .
          
           
             The
             Arabians
             were
             formerly
             very
             Learned
             ,
             especially
             in
             Medicine
             ,
             and
             our
             European
             Surgeons
             have
             found
             very
             useful
             Secrets
             in
             their
             Books
             :
             But
             at
             present
             they
             apply
             themselves
             wholly
             to
             Divination
             ,
             which
             ,
             in
             their
             Opinion
             ,
             is
             the
             only
             sublime
             Science
             .
             They
             are
             perfect
             Strangers
             to
             the
             knowledge
             of
             Religion
             ,
             and
             their
             only
             Trade
             is
             to
             Rob
             Passengers
             :
             Nevertheless
             ,
             it
             must
             be
             acknowledg'd
             to
             their
             praise
             ,
             that
             they
             kill
             none
             but
             Turks
             ,
             and
             these
             only
             when
             they
             are
             disoblig'd
             by
             the
             
               Grand
               Signior
            
             .
             They
             are
             divided
             into
             Tribes
             ,
             commanded
             by
             their
             particular
             Captains
             ,
             who
             are
             all
             subject
             to
             a
             kind
             of
             Duke
             or
             Prince
             ,
             whom
             they
             call
             
               Skeick
               el
               Kebir
            
             .
             They
             Encamp
             in
             the
             Deserts
             ,
             where
             they
             spend
             their
             whole
             Lives
             ;
             for
             when
             they
             have
             consum'd
             the
             Grass
             in
             one
             place
             they
             remove
             to
             another
             .
             They
             are
             lean
             and
             black
             ;
             their
             Aspect
             is
             Grim
             and
             terrible
             :
             They
             are
             usually
             cloath'd
             with
             the
             Skins
             of
             wild
             Beasts
             ,
             and
             feed
             upon
             Milk
             ,
             Butter
             ,
             Honey
             ,
             and
             sometimes
             a
             little
             Camel's
             Flesh
             parch'd
             in
             the
             Sun-Beams
             ,
             or
             Roasted
             in
             the
             Embers
             :
             But
             when
             they
             go
             out
             on
             Parties
             to
             Attack
             Caravans
             ,
             or
             private
             Travellers
             ,
             they
             carry
             no
             other
             Provisions
             but
             a
             little
             Flesh
             ,
             which
             they
             lay
             under
             'em
             upon
             their
             Horse's
             backs
             till
             it
             grows
             hot
             and
             tender
             .
          
           
             They
             have
             the
             best
             Horses
             in
             the
             World
             ,
             for
             they
             are
             incredibly
             swift
             ,
             and
             will
             ride
             a
             whole
             day
             without
             tyring
             .
             'T
             is
             the
             Custom
             of
             the
             Arabians
             to
             Gallop
             perpetually
             ,
             without
             stopping
             to
             Dine
             :
             At
             Night
             they
             tye
             their
             Horses
             to
             Stakes
             ,
             and
             feed
             'em
             with
             Milk
             ,
             Flesh
             ,
             and
             Wheat
             ,
             as
             they
             do
             themselves
             .
             They
             esteem
             a
             good
             Horse
             above
             all
             things
             in
             the
             World
             ;
             and
             to
             prevent
             Deceits
             ,
             
             they
             keep
             their
             Pedigrees
             in
             Writing
             .
             When
             they
             have
             occasion
             to
             sell
             or
             exchange
             a
             Horse
             ,
             they
             produce
             his
             Genealogy
             ,
             proving
             him
             to
             be
             lineally
             descended
             from
             such
             a
             Stallion
             and
             Mare
             of
             illustrious
             Memory
             .
          
           
             This
             wandring
             Nation
             owes
             the
             preservation
             of
             its
             Liberties
             to
             the
             weakness
             of
             the
             
               Grand
               Signior
            
             ,
             and
             of
             the
             
             Bassa's
             of
             Cairo
             and
             Aleppo
             ,
             who
             not
             only
             connive
             at
             'em
             ,
             but
             gratifie
             the
             
               Sheck
               el
               Kebir
            
             with
             a
             Pension
             ,
             which
             very
             much
             resembles
             Tribute
             ;
             For
             upon
             the
             least
             delay
             of
             Payment
             ,
             they
             burn
             and
             pillage
             the
             Country
             in
             so
             barbarous
             a
             manner
             ,
             that
             I
             cannot
             give
             you
             a
             livelier
             Idea
             of
             the
             havock
             they
             make
             on
             such
             occasions
             ,
             than
             by
             putting
             you
             in
             mind
             of
             the
             French
             Campaign
             in
             the
             Palatinate
             .
          
           
             I
             have
             done
             with
             the
             Arabians
             ,
             and
             shall
             in
             the
             next
             place
             proceed
             to
             give
             you
             a
             brief
             Account
             of
             the
             Turks
             that
             live
             in
             Egypt
             ,
             before
             I
             finish
             my
             Letter
             .
             They
             are
             so
             extreamly
             Superstitious
             ,
             that
             when
             they
             go
             abroad
             in
             the
             Morning
             ,
             if
             the
             first
             Person
             they
             meet
             be
             a
             Christian
             ,
             they
             return
             immediately
             ,
             and
             having
             wash'd
             themselves
             ,
             stay
             at
             home
             all
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             day
             ;
             for
             they
             believe
             that
             some
             great
             Misfortune
             wou'd
             certainly
             befall
             'em
             ,
             if
             they
             shou'd
             venture
             to
             go
             abroad
             again
             .
          
           
             Their
             hatred
             and
             scorn
             to
             all
             that
             profess
             the
             Faith
             of
             Christ
             ,
             is
             extended
             even
             to
             the
             Franks
             ,
             who
             meet
             with
             a
             thousand
             Indignities
             ,
             which
             the
             Greeks
             themselves
             can
             hardly
             bear
             .
             For
             not
             to
             mention
             the
             Custom
             of
             Imprisoning
             us
             every
             Night
             ,
             we
             are
             not
             permitted
             to
             appear
             on
             Horseback
             in
             the
             City
             ,
             but
             are
             oblig'd
             to
             ride
             on
             Asses
             ;
             and
             if
             a
             Frank
             were
             found
             taking
             a
             particular
             view
             of
             a
             Fortification
             ,
             't
             wou'd
             cost
             him
             at
             least
             500
             Piasters
             ,
             and
             he
             might
             reckon
             himself
             very
             Fortunate
             if
             he
             escap'd
             with
             so
             mild
             a
             Correction
             .
             'T
             is
             still
             a
             more
             hainous
             Crime
             to
             enter
             into
             a
             Mosquee
             ,
             and
             wou'd
             be
             punish'd
             with
             greater
             Severity
             :
             And
             therefore
             
             I
             hope
             you
             will
             not
             expect
             that
             I
             shou'd
             acquaint
             you
             whether
             the
             Egyptian
             Mosquees
             are
             different
             from
             those
             of
             Constantinople
             .
          
           
             I
             have
             already
             told
             you
             ,
             that
             the
             Men
             of
             this
             Country
             are
             very
             black
             ;
             but
             I
             'm
             inform'd
             ,
             that
             the
             Women
             are
             not
             tann'd
             in
             the
             least
             with
             that
             Colour
             ,
             so
             careful
             are
             they
             to
             preserve
             their
             Complexions
             ,
             and
             to
             keep
             themselves
             out
             of
             the
             reach
             of
             the
             Sun.
             I
             cou'd
             tell
             you
             some
             very
             diverting
             Stories
             of
             the
             Alexandrian
             Women
             ,
             if
             I
             were
             fully
             convinc'd
             of
             the
             truth
             of
             '
             em
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             my
             Authors
             are
             very
             positive
             ,
             but
             the
             Thing
             is
             so
             odd
             ,
             that
             I
             dare
             hardly
             venture
             to
             relate
             it
             upon
             their
             Credit
             ;
             and
             especially
             in
             this
             case
             ,
             I
             shou'd
             be
             glad
             I
             cou'd
             speak
             as
             an
             Eye-witness
             .
             However
             ,
             Sir
             ,
             since
             the
             mentioning
             of
             the
             Subject
             may
             perhaps
             raise
             your
             Curiosity
             ,
             't
             wou'd
             be
             ill
             Manners
             to
             take
             leave
             of
             you
             without
             giving
             you
             some
             account
             of
             it
             .
          
           
             I
             'm
             inform'd
             there
             are
             Schools
             here
             where
             Maids
             learn
             to
             give
             and
             receive
             the
             Pleasures
             of
             Love
             with
             more
             than
             ordinary
             delight
             .
             This
             pretty
             Art
             is
             taught
             by
             Women
             ,
             who
             acting
             the
             part
             of
             Men
             ,
             make
             their
             fair
             Scholars
             exercise
             the
             most
             lascivious
             Postures
             imaginable
             .
             Maids
             of
             Quality
             are
             instructed
             at
             home
             ,
             and
             I
             'm
             assur'd
             that
             this
             is
             an
             Accomplishment
             which
             usually
             recommends
             young
             Ladies
             to
             the
             most
             advantageous
             Matches
             .
          
           
             I
             intend
             to
             Embark
             to
             morrow
             on
             a
             Tartane
             of
             Marseilles
             ,
             bound
             for
             Cairo
             .
             I
             'm
             extreamly
             afraid
             of
             the
             Mouth
             of
             Damieta
             ,
             for
             they
             say
             't
             is
             very
             dangerous
             .
          
           
             I
             am
             ,
             
               SIR
               ,
            
             
               Your
               &c.
               
            
             
               Alexandria
               ,
               
                 Jan.
                 1691.
                 
              
            
          
        
         
           
           
             LETTER
             XVII
             .
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
          
           
             I
             Cannot
             express
             my
             Amazement
             at
             the
             sight
             of
             those
             stately
             Monuments
             that
             make
             Cairo
             the
             most
             admirable
             City
             in
             the
             World
             ,
             and
             convince
             the
             Beholder
             of
             so
             many
             Wonders
             ,
             that
             the
             ancient
             Kings
             of
             Egypt
             were
             the
             most
             powerful
             Monarchs
             in
             the
             Universe
             .
             We
             are
             usually
             fill'd
             with
             a
             high
             Idea
             of
             the
             Roman
             Grandeur
             ,
             because
             we
             view
             it
             at
             a
             less
             distance
             :
             But
             how
             vastly
             inferiour
             are
             the
             
               Pantheon
               ,
               Collieseum
               ,
               Capitol
            
             ,
             and
             all
             the
             other
             celebrated
             Structures
             of
             Rome
             ,
             to
             these
             Magnificent
             Sepulchres
             which
             have
             for
             so
             many
             Ages
             stood
             firm
             against
             all
             the
             Attacks
             of
             Time
             and
             Age
             ,
             and
             piercing
             the
             Sky
             with
             their
             lofty
             Tops
             ,
             seem
             to
             be
             Copies
             of
             the
             Tower
             of
             Babel
             .
             At
             least
             't
             is
             plain
             ,
             that
             the
             Founders
             of
             these
             Egyptian
             Monuments
             were
             acted
             by
             the
             same
             Designs
             that
             mov'd
             Nimrod
             to
             erect
             that
             famous
             Tower.
             They
             saw
             that
             all
             things
             were
             subject
             to
             the
             irresistible
             Power
             of
             Fate
             ,
             which
             destroys
             in
             a
             Moment
             the
             most
             illustrious
             and
             potent
             Empires
             ,
             and
             annihilates
             even
             the
             Memory
             of
             their
             Grandeur
             .
             Their
             Souls
             were
             too
             elevated
             to
             submit
             to
             the
             common
             Destiny
             of
             other
             Mortals
             ;
             and
             the
             sublimity
             of
             their
             Courage
             inspir'd
             'em
             with
             the
             noble
             and
             glorious
             Resolution
             of
             making
             themselves
             Immortal
             in
             spite
             of
             Death
             .
             This
             was
             the
             design
             of
             those
             Egyptian
             Hero's
             ,
             and
             't
             is
             to
             their
             Heroical
             Ambition
             that
             we
             owe
             the
             Possession
             of
             these
             Wonders
             of
             the
             World.
             How
             often
             do
             I
             wish
             you
             had
             been
             an
             Eye-witness
             and
             Partaker
             of
             my
             Happiness
             ,
             when
             I
             stood
             gazing
             on
             so
             many
             Beauties
             that
             are
             not
             to
             be
             found
             any
             where
             else
             ,
             and
             
             might
             justifie
             the
             Curiosity
             of
             a
             Traveller
             ,
             tho'
             he
             shou'd
             come
             from
             the
             remotest
             part
             of
             the
             Universe
             to
             admire
             '
             em
             .
          
           
             These
             Monuments
             are
             of
             several
             kinds
             ,
             but
             there
             are
             none
             so
             admirably
             magnificent
             as
             the
             Pyramids
             ,
             which
             are
             so
             highly
             celebrated
             by
             ancient
             Historians
             .
             Two
             of
             the
             three
             principal
             Pyramids
             are
             shut
             ,
             the
             other
             which
             appears
             biggest
             is
             open
             :
             'T
             is
             seated
             (
             I
             mean
             the
             last
             )
             very
             near
             the
             other
             two
             ,
             three
             Leagues
             from
             Cairo
             ,
             if
             that
             name
             be
             confin'd
             to
             the
             New
             City
             ,
             or
             two
             Leagues
             and
             a
             half
             ,
             taking
             in
             the
             Old.
             'T
             is
             a
             vast
             artificial
             Mountain
             ,
             compos'd
             of
             Free-Stones
             of
             different
             bigness
             ;
             for
             we
             cannot
             suppose
             it
             possible
             ,
             that
             there
             cou'd
             have
             been
             a
             sufficient
             quantity
             of
             Stones
             found
             exactly
             of
             the
             same
             Dimensions
             ,
             for
             the
             building
             of
             so
             prodigious
             a
             Mass
             ;
             but
             the
             smallest
             are
             a
             Foot
             thick
             ,
             and
             two
             Foot
             long
             ;
             some
             being
             three
             Foot
             thick
             ,
             six
             long
             ,
             and
             four
             broad
             .
             It
             s
             heighth
             amounts
             to
             520
             Feet
             ,
             and
             the
             breadth
             of
             each
             Face
             to
             682.
             
          
           
             The
             Ascent
             consists
             of
             between
             200
             and
             210
             Steps
             .
             The
             Top
             appears
             like
             the
             point
             of
             a
             Spire
             to
             those
             that
             are
             below
             ;
             but
             when
             they
             go
             up
             to
             it
             ,
             they
             are
             surpriz'd
             to
             find
             a
             Platform
             24
             Foot
             square
             ;
             and
             their
             Wonder
             is
             still
             encreas'd
             ,
             when
             they
             observe
             that
             so
             large
             a
             space
             is
             pav'd
             only
             with
             12
             Stones
             ;
             for
             't
             is
             hardly
             conceivable
             how
             Stones
             of
             that
             Bulk
             cou'd
             be
             rais'd
             to
             so
             vast
             a
             heighth
             .
             From
             thence
             you
             have
             the
             Prospect
             of
             Boulac
             ,
             old
             and
             new
             Cairo
             ,
             the
             Ruines
             of
             Memphis
             ,
             the
             Mountain
             and
             the
             Desarts
             of
             Egypt
             :
             But
             he
             who
             can
             look
             to
             the
             bottom
             of
             the
             Steps
             without
             Amazement
             ,
             may
             justly
             boast
             of
             the
             strength
             of
             his
             Head
             ;
             for
             my
             part
             ,
             I
             must
             confess
             I
             was
             struck
             with
             so
             much
             horror
             when
             I
             cast
             my
             Eye
             downward
             ,
             that
             I
             was
             hardly
             sensible
             of
             any
             Pleasure
             in
             viewing
             so
             great
             a
             variety
             of
             Objects
             .
             There
             were
             formerly
             Steps
             on
             every
             side
             ,
             but
             Time
             that
             consumes
             all
             
             things
             has
             so
             wasted
             some
             of
             the
             Stones
             ,
             that
             in
             several
             Parts
             there
             are
             dreadful
             Precipices
             ;
             and
             therefore
             Strangers
             dare
             not
             venture
             to
             ascend
             without
             the
             assistance
             of
             Guides
             that
             are
             acquainted
             with
             the
             safest
             ways
             .
             At
             the
             bottom
             of
             the
             Pyramid
             there
             is
             a
             heap
             of
             Sand
             that
             reaches
             to
             the
             sixteenth
             step
             ,
             where
             there
             is
             a
             little
             door
             ,
             thro'
             which
             (
             after
             you
             have
             drunk
             a
             refreshing
             Cup
             )
             you
             may
             enter
             into
             a
             sort
             of
             descending
             Alley
             ,
             30
             paces
             long
             ,
             about
             three
             Foot
             and
             a
             half
             high
             ,
             and
             of
             equal
             breadth
             ,
             so
             that
             a
             Man
             cannot
             walk
             in
             it
             without
             bowing
             his
             Body
             extreamly
             .
             At
             the
             end
             of
             this
             Alley
             you
             must
             lie
             down
             upon
             your
             Belly
             ,
             and
             creep
             thro'
             a
             little
             Wicket
             ,
             which
             is
             even
             with
             the
             Ground
             ,
             and
             brings
             you
             into
             another
             little
             Alley
             like
             the
             former
             ,
             only
             in
             this
             you
             must
             ascend
             ,
             whereas
             you
             descended
             in
             the
             other
             .
             This
             Alley
             ends
             in
             two
             others
             ;
             that
             on
             the
             Right-hand
             has
             no
             inclination
             ,
             and
             leads
             to
             a
             little
             Vaulted
             Chamber
             18
             Foot
             long
             ,
             and
             12
             broad
             .
             At
             the
             entrance
             into
             this
             Alley
             there
             is
             a
             very
             deep
             Pit
             or
             Well
             without
             Water
             :
             Some
             Travellers
             go
             down
             into
             it
             ,
             but
             I
             did
             not
             follow
             their
             Example
             :
             For
             I
             thought
             I
             had
             already
             done
             enough
             to
             satisfie
             my
             Curiosity
             ,
             by
             creeping
             thro'
             those
             Caves
             which
             are
             darker
             than
             Hell
             it self
             ,
             and
             in
             all
             respects
             a
             fit
             Habitation
             for
             the
             Dead
             .
             Besides
             ,
             they
             are
             so
             full
             of
             Bats
             that
             flutter
             about
             perpetually
             ,
             and
             blow
             out
             the
             Candles
             ,
             that
             't
             wou'd
             be
             very
             dangerous
             to
             venture
             in
             without
             a
             Tinder-Box
             .
             Directly
             opposite
             to
             the
             last
             Alley
             ,
             there
             is
             another
             which
             begins
             so
             high
             in
             the
             Wall
             ,
             that
             we
             were
             forc'd
             to
             climb
             up
             to
             it
             ;
             but
             to
             make
             amends
             for
             that
             inconveniency
             ,
             't
             is
             much
             higher
             and
             broader
             than
             any
             of
             the
             rest
             .
             After
             I
             had
             walk'd
             70
             Paces
             ,
             still
             ascending
             ,
             I
             found
             a
             sort
             of
             Hall
             32
             Foot
             long
             ,
             and
             16
             broad
             ,
             pav'd
             with
             nine
             Stones
             ,
             the
             length
             of
             which
             is
             equal
             to
             the
             breadth
             of
             the
             Room
             .
             The
             Walls
             are
             of
             
             a
             very
             fine
             and
             precious
             kind
             of
             Porphyry
             ;
             and
             at
             one
             end
             there
             is
             an
             empty
             Tomb
             of
             the
             same
             Porphyry
             ,
             seven
             Foot
             long
             and
             three
             broad
             .
          
           
             I
             went
             afterwards
             to
             take
             a
             view
             of
             the
             two
             other
             Pyramids
             ,
             the
             least
             (
             and
             according
             to
             all
             appearances
             the
             most
             ancient
             )
             of
             which
             was
             formerly
             over-laid
             with
             Porphyry
             .
             'T
             is
             only
             150
             Foot
             high
             ,
             and
             each
             of
             its
             Sides
             or
             Faces
             is
             200
             Foot
             broad
             .
             The
             common
             Opinion
             is
             ,
             That
             't
             was
             Founded
             by
             a
             Young
             Woman
             call'd
             Rhodope
             ,
             who
             was
             
             Aesop's
             Fellow-Slave
             in
             Egypt
             ;
             and
             that
             the
             Munificence
             of
             her
             Lovers
             enabl'd
             her
             to
             build
             so
             vast
             a
             Work.
             The
             other
             is
             almost
             as
             great
             as
             the
             first
             ;
             for
             its
             height
             amounts
             to
             510
             Feet
             ,
             and
             the
             breadth
             of
             each
             Face
             to
             630.
             
             These
             three
             Pyramids
             are
             of
             a
             quadrilateral
             Figure
             ,
             and
             I
             observ'd
             the
             Ruines
             of
             an
             ancient
             Temple
             before
             each
             of
             'em
             ;
             for
             't
             is
             not
             at
             all
             probable
             ,
             that
             there
             were
             ever
             any
             Palaces
             in
             that
             Place
             ;
             and
             the
             huge
             Idol
             of
             Stone
             that
             stands
             very
             near
             those
             decay'd
             Structures
             ,
             is
             ,
             I
             think
             ,
             an
             evident
             confirmation
             of
             the
             truth
             of
             my
             Conjecture
             .
             The
             People
             of
             the
             Country
             say
             ,
             that
             't
             was
             heretofore
             famous
             for
             Oracles
             ,
             and
             I
             believe
             't
             is
             no
             fabulous
             Tradition
             ;
             for
             there
             is
             a
             very
             deep
             Hole
             in
             the
             Head
             of
             the
             Idol
             ,
             where
             the
             Priests
             might
             lie
             conceal'd
             ,
             and
             return
             answers
             to
             those
             who
             came
             to
             propose
             Questions
             .
             'T
             is
             a
             Colossus
             cut
             in
             the
             Rock
             ,
             representing
             a
             Woman
             ,
             and
             is
             26
             Foot
             high
             ,
             tho'
             it
             scarce
             reaches
             down
             to
             her
             Bosom
             ,
             so
             that
             't
             is
             one
             of
             the
             most
             monstrous
             Figures
             in
             the
             World.
             
          
           
             Three
             hours
             Journey
             from
             thence
             there
             is
             a
             Village
             call'd
             Sacara
             ,
             in
             which
             there
             are
             Catacombs
             or
             Sepulchral
             Vaults
             ,
             but
             of
             a
             different
             Contrivance
             from
             those
             at
             Rome
             and
             Alexandria
             .
             For
             these
             are
             distinct
             subterraneous
             Chambers
             ,
             built
             of
             Free-Stone
             ,
             without
             the
             least
             Communication
             between
             one
             another
             :
             There
             is
             an
             opening
             above
             ,
             thro'
             
             which
             you
             are
             either
             let
             down
             with
             a
             Rope
             ,
             as
             into
             a
             Well
             ,
             or
             must
             go
             down
             a
             Ladder
             ,
             according
             to
             the
             various
             Depth
             of
             the
             Caves
             .
             They
             were
             heretofore
             full
             of
             the
             Bodies
             of
             ancient
             Egyptians
             ,
             so
             skilfully
             embalm'd
             ,
             that
             they
             were
             preserv'd
             entire
             ,
             perhaps
             above
             4000
             Years
             ,
             with
             their
             Epitaphs
             ,
             Coffins
             ,
             and
             curious
             and
             magnificent
             Dresses
             .
             The
             Coffins
             were
             enrich'd
             with
             Hieroglyphics
             ,
             and
             the
             Figure
             of
             the
             Deceas'd
             in
             Relievo
             ;
             and
             sometimes
             there
             were
             Idols
             and
             Jewels
             found
             in
             '
             em
             .
             But
             the
             Curiosity
             of
             the
             Franks
             has
             at
             last
             exhausted
             'em
             ;
             tho'
             't
             is
             thought
             there
             are
             some
             that
             were
             never
             open'd
             ,
             and
             that
             the
             difficulty
             of
             finding
             'em
             proceeds
             from
             the
             Avarice
             of
             the
             Moors
             ,
             who
             only
             know
             where
             they
             are
             ,
             and
             keep
             the
             Price
             of
             such
             Rarities
             very
             high
             .
             Yet
             I
             made
             'em
             let
             me
             down
             into
             two
             or
             three
             ,
             where
             I
             saw
             some
             Pieces
             of
             Mummy
             ,
             but
             so
             spoil'd
             ,
             that
             't
             was
             impossible
             to
             preserve
             any
             of
             '
             em
             .
          
           
             This
             Place
             is
             so
             full
             of
             Pyramids
             ,
             that
             I
             believe
             there
             are
             above
             a
             hundred
             ;
             but
             they
             are
             not
             comparable
             to
             those
             I
             mention'd
             .
             Yet
             I
             observ'd
             one
             that
             wou'd
             be
             as
             big
             as
             the
             first
             ,
             if
             it
             were
             finish'd
             :
             there
             are
             also
             ascending
             and
             descending
             Alleys
             in
             it
             ,
             at
             the
             end
             of
             which
             there
             are
             three
             Rooms
             in
             different
             Places
             .
             I
             will
             not
             trouble
             you
             with
             a
             Description
             of
             it
             ,
             since
             the
             only
             remarkable
             Difference
             between
             it
             and
             the
             first
             ,
             is
             ,
             that
             this
             is
             only
             rais'd
             to
             half
             the
             intended
             Heighth
             ,
             if
             I
             may
             judge
             by
             its
             Proportion
             to
             the
             rest
             ,
             whereas
             that
             is
             compleatly
             finish'd
             .
          
           
             On
             the
             other
             Side
             of
             the
             Nile
             ,
             directly
             opposite
             to
             this
             Place
             ,
             are
             the
             Ruines
             of
             the
             ancient
             City
             of
             Memphis
             ,
             extended
             along
             the
             River
             ,
             till
             you
             come
             overagainst
             
               Old
               Cairo
            
             .
             They
             are
             so
             confus'd
             at
             present
             ,
             that
             I
             spent
             half
             a
             Day
             in
             viewing
             'em
             ,
             without
             finding
             any
             thing
             remarkable
             .
          
           
           
             I
             confess
             ,
             Sir
             ,
             that
             in
             pursuance
             of
             the
             Niceties
             of
             an
             exact
             Method
             ,
             I
             shou'd
             have
             made
             you
             acquainted
             with
             the
             City
             of
             Cairo
             ,
             before
             I
             had
             carry'd
             you
             to
             visit
             the
             Rarities
             in
             its
             Neighbourhood
             .
             But
             I
             cou'd
             not
             forbear
             giving
             the
             first
             place
             to
             that
             which
             I
             most
             admir'd
             ;
             and
             besides
             an
             Account
             of
             Cairo
             will
             be
             as
             useful
             and
             perhaps
             as
             acceptable
             to
             you
             at
             the
             End
             ,
             as
             in
             the
             Beginning
             of
             my
             Letter
             .
          
           
             The
             Observation
             I
             made
             concerning
             the
             Variety
             of
             Opinions
             about
             the
             Extent
             of
             Constantinople
             ,
             is
             equally
             applicable
             to
             this
             City
             ,
             which
             is
             divided
             into
             three
             Parts
             ,
             Boulac
             ,
             and
             Old
             ,
             and
             
               New
               Cairo
            
             .
             Some
             Travellers
             scruple
             to
             comprehend
             these
             three
             Towns
             under
             one
             Name
             ,
             because
             they
             are
             separated
             by
             Gardens
             and
             Fields
             :
             but
             if
             those
             Gentlemen
             were
             to
             write
             to
             an
             Inhabitant
             of
             any
             of
             these
             Divisions
             ,
             they
             wou'd
             certainly
             direct
             their
             Letters
             to
             Cairo
             ,
             and
             not
             to
             Boulac
             ,
             &c.
             
             And
             't
             is
             as
             impertinent
             a
             Piece
             of
             Nicety
             to
             make
             a
             Distinction
             between
             Places
             that
             are
             divided
             by
             so
             small
             a
             Distance
             ;
             as
             't
             wou'd
             be
             absurd
             and
             improper
             ,
             according
             to
             that
             Opinion
             ,
             to
             give
             the
             City
             the
             Title
             of
             
               Grand
               Cairo
            
             .
             But
             not
             to
             trouble
             you
             with
             more
             Arguments
             ,
             I
             shall
             only
             tell
             you
             that
             I
             think
             fit
             to
             join
             all
             the
             three
             Parts
             together
             ;
             and
             that
             in
             this
             Sense
             Cairo
             contains
             four
             large
             Hours
             Journey
             in
             Length
             ,
             and
             twelve
             in
             Compass
             .
          
           
             'T
             was
             taken
             from
             the
             Soldans
             of
             
               Egypt
               ,
               Ann.
            
             1517.
             by
             
               Sultan
               Selim
            
             I.
             who
             put
             to
             death
             all
             the
             Mammelucks
             with
             their
             Soldan
             :
             and
             since
             that
             it
             has
             been
             still
             subject
             to
             the
             Turks
             ,
             who
             in
             all
             probability
             will
             not
             be
             soon
             nor
             easily
             driven
             out
             of
             it
             .
             'T
             is
             the
             Metropolis
             of
             Egypt
             ,
             and
             the
             most
             considerable
             Bassa-ship
             in
             Turkey
             :
             and
             since
             't
             is
             a
             City
             of
             a
             vast
             Extent
             ,
             the
             three
             Parts
             that
             compose
             it
             are
             differently
             situated
             .
             Boulac
             is
             the
             Port
             of
             Cairo
             on
             the
             Nile
             ,
             and
             is
             alone
             as
             large
             as
             Rennes
             in
             Bretagne
             ,
             or
             the
             
             Hague
             in
             Holland
             .
             The
             New
             City
             lies
             further
             in
             the
             Country
             ,
             at
             the
             Foot
             of
             a
             great
             Hill
             ,
             and
             the
             
               Old
               Cairo
            
             a
             little
             beyond
             it
             ,
             on
             the
             Banks
             of
             the
             Nile
             .
             Thus
             the
             New
             City
             is
             depriv'd
             of
             the
             advantageous
             Neighbourhood
             of
             the
             River
             ,
             and
             receives
             all
             its
             Water
             by
             a
             Khaalis
             or
             Canal
             ,
             like
             that
             of
             Alexandria
             .
             All
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             Cities
             of
             Egypt
             are
             also
             furnish'd
             with
             such
             Aqueducts
             ,
             without
             which
             they
             wou●d
             be
             wholly
             destitute
             of
             Water
             .
             This
             is
             the
             Inconveniency
             ,
             or
             rather
             the
             Misery
             of
             the
             Country
             ;
             for
             the
             Heat
             is
             very
             troublesome
             during
             the
             Summer
             :
             and
             so
             much
             the
             more
             insupportable
             ,
             because
             all
             the
             Ground
             is
             cover'd
             with
             Sand
             ,
             which
             grows
             burning
             hot
             ,
             and
             makes
             the
             Air
             so
             sultry
             ,
             that
             one
             can
             scarce
             breathe
             in
             it
             .
             Judge
             ,
             Sir
             ,
             what
             a
             Pleasure
             't
             wou'd
             be
             in
             that
             Season
             ,
             to
             drink
             a
             Cup
             of
             cold
             and
             fresh
             Water
             ;
             and
             yet
             the
             poor
             Inhabitants
             must
             content
             themselves
             with
             the
             nasty
             Puddle
             that
             has
             stood
             about
             a
             Year
             in
             the
             Cisterns
             ,
             or
             (
             which
             is
             almost
             as
             bad
             )
             with
             the
             Water
             that
             is
             carry'd
             about
             the
             Streets
             to
             be
             sold
             in
             Pitchers
             made
             of
             Goats
             Skins
             ,
             by
             the
             Moors
             .
             For
             the
             Khaalis
             is
             dry
             for
             the
             Space
             of
             six
             Months
             ,
             and
             begins
             not
             to
             be
             fill'd
             till
             the
             Month
             of
             August
             ,
             when
             the
             Nile
             is
             almost
             come
             to
             its
             greatest
             Heighth
             .
             Then
             they
             cut
             the
             Dam
             or
             Bank
             ,
             that
             kept
             out
             the
             Water
             ,
             which
             immediately
             gushes
             into
             the
             Canal
             ,
             and
             continues
             to
             flow
             during
             the
             Encrease
             of
             the
             River
             ,
             that
             is
             ,
             till
             near
             the
             End
             of
             October
             ,
             after
             which
             it
             decreases
             by
             degrees
             .
             The
             Day
             of
             the
             Opening
             of
             the
             Khaalis
             is
             observ'd
             in
             this
             City
             as
             a
             Festival
             ,
             with
             extraordinary
             Marks
             of
             Joy
             :
             but
             since
             I
             have
             neither
             seen
             ,
             nor
             am
             like
             to
             see
             that
             Ceremony
             ,
             you
             may
             consult
             some
             other
             Travellers
             for
             an
             Account
             of
             it
             .
             The
             Khaalis
             passes
             thro'
             the
             New
             City
             ,
             and
             fills
             a
             vast
             number
             of
             Cisterns
             and
             Basons
             for
             Gardens
             .
             The
             Inundation
             of
             the
             Nile
             is
             the
             only
             Cause
             of
             the
             Fruitfulness
             of
             Egypt
             ;
             for
             without
             that
             
             't
             wou'd
             be
             one
             vast
             Desart
             ,
             as
             those
             Parts
             are
             ,
             which
             are
             depriv'd
             of
             that
             Advantage
             by
             reason
             of
             their
             Distance
             from
             the
             River
             .
             These
             Floods
             ,
             which
             are
             occasion'd
             by
             the
             Melting
             of
             the
             Snow
             in
             the
             Mountains
             ,
             fatten
             the
             Soil
             more
             effectually
             than
             the
             best
             Dung
             in
             the
             World
             cou'd
             possibly
             do
             :
             and
             indeed
             those
             Spots
             of
             Ground
             that
             are
             wash'd
             by
             the
             Inundation
             are
             admirably
             fertil
             .
             I
             cannot
             leave
             this
             Subject
             without
             taking
             Notice
             of
             the
             Vulgar
             Errour
             ,
             That
             it
             never
             rains
             in
             this
             Country
             ;
             for
             during
             the
             little
             time
             I
             have
             spent
             in
             it
             ,
             I
             have
             observ'd
             some
             Showers
             ;
             tho'
             I
             must
             confess
             it
             rains
             not
             so
             frequently
             here
             as
             in
             other
             Countries
             .
          
           
             The
             Nile
             is
             very
             near
             as
             broad
             as
             the
             Rhine
             :
             it
             crosses
             the
             whole
             Country
             of
             Egypt
             ;
             and
             during
             the
             time
             of
             its
             Inundation
             ,
             it
             overflows
             for
             the
             space
             of
             two
             Months
             ,
             all
             the
             neighbouring
             Fields
             ,
             which
             only
             are
             inhabited
             ,
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             Land
             being
             cover'd
             with
             dry
             and
             burning
             Sands
             .
             It
             falls
             into
             the
             Mediterranean
             by
             two
             Mouths
             ,
             about
             80
             Miles
             distant
             .
             'T
             is
             famous
             over
             all
             the
             World
             for
             its
             Crocodiles
             ,
             and
             it
             must
             be
             acknowledg'd
             that
             it
             contains
             a
             great
             number
             of
             very
             large
             ones
             ,
             but
             they
             are
             neither
             venomous
             ,
             nor
             so
             terrible
             as
             they
             are
             usually
             represented
             .
          
           
             If
             I
             shou'd
             tell
             you
             that
             there
             are
             23000
             Mosquees
             in
             this
             City
             ,
             you
             'd
             certainly
             laugh
             at
             my
             Credulity
             ,
             that
             cou'd
             swallow
             such
             a
             monstrous
             Fable
             .
             However
             ,
             Sir
             ,
             't
             is
             held
             by
             all
             the
             Inhabitants
             as
             a
             most
             certain
             Truth
             ;
             and
             they
             are
             no
             less
             firmly
             persuaded
             that
             there
             are
             as
             many
             distinct
             Quarters
             or
             Wards
             ,
             containing
             several
             Streets
             each
             ,
             according
             to
             which
             Computation
             there
             are
             at
             least
             100000
             Streets
             in
             the
             City
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             they
             are
             extremely
             small
             and
             narrow
             ,
             but
             I
             dare
             not
             positively
             assure
             you
             that
             there
             is
             such
             a
             prodigious
             Number
             of
             'em
             ,
             especially
             since
             I
             never
             counted
             '
             em
             .
             'T
             is
             also
             said
             that
             when
             the
             Plague
             rages
             in
             this
             Place
             ,
             it
             sweeps
             
             away
             10000
             Persons
             a-day
             ;
             nor
             do
             I
             think
             this
             Story
             so
             incredible
             as
             the
             other
             :
             for
             the
             City
             is
             extremely
             populous
             ,
             and
             there
             is
             as
             great
             a
             Concourse
             of
             People
             at
             the
             Bazar
             or
             Market
             every
             Thursday
             ,
             as
             at
             the
             most
             crowded
             Fairs
             in
             Europe
             .
             This
             Bazar
             is
             the
             only
             to
             lerable
             Street
             in
             Cairo
             ,
             and
             the
             Besestin
             at
             one
             of
             the
             Ends
             of
             it
             is
             at
             least
             as
             fine
             and
             rich
             as
             that
             of
             Constantinople
             .
             At
             the
             other
             End
             there
             is
             a
             Market
             of
             Slaves
             ,
             where
             a
             Man
             may
             be
             always
             accommodated
             with
             a
             pretty
             Girl
             ,
             at
             the
             Rate
             of
             100
             or
             150
             Piasters
             .
             All
             the
             Houses
             are
             of
             Wood
             ,
             with
             Platforms
             on
             the
             Top
             ,
             after
             the
             Turkish
             Fashion
             :
             The
             Outside
             is
             as
             mean
             ,
             as
             the
             Inside
             is
             said
             to
             be
             beautiful
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             I
             never
             view'd
             'em
             within
             ,
             and
             therefore
             will
             not
             desire
             you
             to
             believe
             that
             they
             deserve
             the
             last
             part
             of
             that
             Character
             ;
             for
             it
             depends
             entirely
             upon
             the
             Testimony
             of
             the
             Franks
             ,
             who
             are
             guilty
             of
             an
             unaccountable
             Prejudice
             ,
             in
             magnifying
             the
             Turkish
             Magnificence
             .
             This
             is
             certainly
             a
             very
             great
             and
             inexcusable
             Weakness
             ;
             and
             I
             know
             not
             whether
             it
             is
             more
             unreasonable
             to
             admire
             all
             things
             or
             nothing
             .
             We
             ought
             indeed
             to
             do
             Justice
             to
             every
             thing
             that
             is
             either
             Good
             or
             Beautiful
             :
             but
             I
             know
             no
             Reason
             that
             obliges
             us
             to
             extoll
             the
             most
             ordinary
             Beauty
             ,
             or
             rather
             Deformity
             it self
             ,
             especially
             in
             a
             Place
             that
             may
             justly
             boast
             of
             so
             many
             incomparable
             Wonders
             ,
             among
             which
             I
             may
             venture
             to
             reckon
             the
             ancient
             and
             vast
             Castle
             of
             Cairo
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             it
             may
             be
             said
             to
             be
             a
             mere
             Heap
             of
             inhabited
             Ruines
             :
             but
             these
             Ruines
             are
             extremely
             Magnificent
             ,
             and
             suitable
             to
             the
             Glory
             and
             Power
             of
             Pharaoh
             ,
             who
             is
             reputed
             to
             be
             the
             Founder
             both
             of
             this
             Structure
             ,
             and
             of
             the
             great
             open
             Pyramid
             .
             It
             stands
             directly
             in
             the
             Middle
             of
             the
             City
             ,
             between
             the
             Old
             aud
             New
             Town
             ,
             on
             so
             large
             and
             steep
             a
             Rock
             ,
             that
             one
             wou'd
             think
             it
             was
             purposely
             fram'd
             by
             Nature
             to
             secure
             and
             command
             
               Grand
               Cairo
            
             .
             'T
             is
             above
             two
             Miles
             in
             Compass
             ,
             and
             
             was
             formerly
             surrounded
             with
             thick
             Walls
             ,
             like
             those
             of
             Alexandria
             ;
             flank'd
             at
             the
             end
             of
             every
             hundred
             Paces
             with
             great
             and
             very
             strong
             Towers
             .
             It
             has
             four
             Gates
             which
             lead
             into
             a
             fine
             open
             Place
             ,
             and
             from
             thence
             to
             several
             Streets
             ;
             so
             that
             it
             seems
             rather
             to
             be
             a
             Town
             than
             a
             Castle
             .
             The
             Turks
             have
             profan'd
             these
             venerable
             Monuments
             ,
             by
             disfiguring
             'em
             with
             their
             Cottages
             ,
             which
             look
             like
             so
             many
             Rats-Nests
             .
             Some
             Parts
             of
             
               Pharaoh's
               Palace
            
             remain
             still
             to
             be
             seen
             :
             The
             Room
             call'd
             
               Joseph's
               Hall
            
             ,
             is
             enrich'd
             with
             Gold
             and
             Azure
             ,
             and
             adorn'd
             with
             thirty
             fine
             Columns
             of
             Porphyry
             .
             That
             of
             his
             Steward
             or
             Intendant
             ,
             is
             not
             so
             entire
             ,
             and
             is
             only
             remarkable
             for
             twelve
             Columns
             of
             Thebaic
             Marble
             ,
             which
             are
             not
             much
             inferiour
             to
             the
             former
             in
             Beauty
             .
             But
             the
             entirest
             and
             most
             admirable
             Work
             in
             this
             Place
             ,
             is
             the
             celebrated
             Well
             of
             Joseph
             .
             'T
             is
             cut
             or
             hollow'd
             in
             the
             hard
             Rock
             ,
             a
             hundred
             and
             six
             Foot
             deep
             ,
             of
             a
             square
             Figure
             ,
             each
             Side
             containing
             eleven
             Feet
             ,
             without
             reckn'ning
             the
             Stair-Case
             ,
             which
             is
             seven
             Foot
             broad
             ,
             and
             cut
             out
             of
             the
             same
             Rock
             .
             It
             turns
             round
             the
             Well
             ,
             and
             consists
             of
             twelve
             several
             Windings
             ,
             six
             of
             which
             contain
             eighteen
             Steps
             a-piece
             ,
             and
             the
             other
             six
             ,
             nineteen
             ;
             so
             that
             the
             total
             Number
             of
             the
             Steps
             amounts
             to
             to
             Two
             hundred
             twenty
             two
             .
             The
             Stairs
             are
             so
             easie
             and
             commodious
             ,
             that
             they
             make
             two
             Oxen
             go
             down
             every
             day
             to
             the
             Bottom
             of
             the
             Well
             ,
             which
             is
             dry
             ,
             and
             from
             thence
             to
             a
             little
             square
             Room
             ,
             where
             there
             is
             a
             Spring
             ,
             out
             of
             which
             they
             draw
             Water
             continually
             ,
             by
             a
             certain
             Contrivance
             of
             Wheels
             hung
             round
             with
             Buckets
             ,
             that
             discharge
             the
             Water
             into
             a
             Bason
             or
             Cistern
             in
             the
             midst
             of
             the
             dry
             Pit
             or
             Well
             ;
             from
             whence
             't
             is
             rais'd
             up
             in
             Buckets
             fasten'd
             to
             Ropes
             ,
             that
             are
             let
             down
             and
             drawn
             up
             again
             by
             the
             turning
             of
             other
             Wheels
             .
             Round
             the
             Stair-Case
             on
             the
             Inside
             there
             are
             Walls
             that
             serve
             instead
             of
             Rails
             ,
             and
             secure
             
             those
             that
             go
             down
             from
             falling
             .
             At
             the
             Bottom
             of
             the
             Well
             there
             is
             a
             Door
             on
             the
             Right-hand
             ,
             and
             another
             on
             the
             Left
             ,
             both
             cut
             out
             of
             the
             Rock
             :
             and
             't
             is
             commonly
             believ'd
             that
             one
             of
             'em
             leads
             to
             the
             Red-Sea
             ,
             and
             the
             other
             to
             the
             Pyramids
             .
             The
             first
             is
             impossible
             ,
             for
             the
             Sea
             is
             above
             thirty
             Leagues
             distant
             :
             but
             the
             second
             is
             not
             at
             all
             improbable
             ,
             considering
             the
             great
             Works
             that
             were
             undertaken
             and
             perform'd
             by
             the
             ancient
             Egyptians
             ,
             and
             the
             Care
             they
             took
             to
             dig
             subterraneous
             Passages
             to
             secure
             their
             Retreat
             in
             case
             of
             Necessity
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             the
             Greatness
             of
             the
             Distance
             ,
             and
             Hardness
             of
             the
             Rock
             cou'd
             not
             but
             make
             this
             Attempt
             very
             difficult
             ;
             but
             after
             all
             't
             is
             not
             near
             so
             vast
             a
             Work
             as
             the
             Pyramids
             ,
             and
             there
             must
             be
             some
             Passage
             that
             begins
             at
             this
             Place
             :
             for
             tho'
             the
             Doors
             are
             at
             present
             wall'd
             up
             ,
             't
             is
             plain
             they
             were
             design'd
             for
             some
             Use
             .
             You
             will
             not
             be
             surpriz'd
             at
             the
             Magnificence
             of
             this
             Well
             ,
             nor
             wonder
             what
             made
             the
             Egyptians
             bestow
             so
             much
             Time
             ,
             Pains
             and
             Cost
             on
             the
             digging
             of
             it
             ,
             if
             you
             consider
             how
             precious
             and
             valuable
             Water
             is
             in
             this
             Country
             .
             For
             (
             as
             I
             told
             you
             in
             my
             last
             )
             there
             are
             but
             two
             Springs
             in
             all
             Egypt
             ,
             This
             ,
             and
             That
             of
             Maltharea
             ,
             of
             which
             I
             shall
             give
             you
             some
             Account
             before
             I
             finish
             my
             Letter
             .
             And
             it
             seems
             the
             Egyptian
             Monarchs
             were
             afraid
             that
             these
             two
             Fountains
             shou'd
             at
             last
             be
             dry'd
             up
             ;
             for
             they
             took
             care
             to
             bring
             Water
             from
             the
             Nile
             in
             a
             very
             fine
             Aqueduct
             ,
             beginning
             betwixt
             
               Old
               Cairo
            
             and
             Boulac
             ,
             and
             reaching
             as
             far
             as
             the
             Castle
             .
             Not
             far
             from
             
               Joseph's
               Palace
            
             there
             is
             a
             dreadful
             Prison
             ,
             consisting
             of
             several
             Dungeons
             cut
             out
             of
             the
             Rock
             .
             It
             bears
             the
             Name
             of
             the
             same
             Patriarch
             ,
             because
             't
             was
             here
             ,
             according
             to
             the
             common
             Opinion
             ,
             where
             he
             interpreted
             the
             Dreams
             of
             the
             Bu●ler
             and
             Baker
             :
             if
             this
             Tradition
             be
             true
             ,
             it
             must
             be
             acknowledg'd
             ,
             that
             he
             was
             in
             a
             lamentable
             Condition
             ,
             for
             this
             is
             certainly
             a
             very
             dismal
             Place
             .
          
           
           
             Maltharea
             is
             a
             Place
             about
             a
             large
             League
             distant
             from
             the
             City
             ,
             whither
             the
             Franks
             often
             walk
             to
             enjoy
             the
             pleasant
             Shade
             of
             its
             fine
             Orange-Trees
             ,
             and
             refresh
             themselves
             with
             its
             delicious
             Water
             .
             There
             is
             also
             a
             little
             Chapel
             in
             the
             same
             place
             ,
             which
             ,
             't
             is
             said
             ,
             the
             
               Blessed
               Virgin
            
             chose
             for
             her
             Abode
             ,
             when
             she
             fled
             to
             Egypt
             with
             her
             Son
             Jesus
             ;
             but
             the
             Circumstances
             of
             the
             Story
             are
             so
             improbable
             ,
             that
             it
             seems
             to
             be
             of
             the
             same
             Stamp
             with
             other
             fabulous
             Legends
             .
             For
             they
             pretend
             that
             while
             she
             liv'd
             in
             that
             little
             House
             ,
             perceiving
             at
             a
             great
             distance
             the
             Men
             whom
             Herod
             had
             sent
             after
             her
             ,
             and
             ,
             not
             knowing
             where
             to
             flee
             ,
             an
             old
             Sycamore
             burst
             open
             to
             receive
             her
             and
             the
             little
             Jesus
             ,
             and
             closing
             again
             secur'd
             'em
             from
             the
             Rage
             of
             their
             Enemies
             .
             Assoon
             as
             the
             Danger
             was
             over
             the
             miraculous
             Tree
             let
             'em
             forth
             ,
             and
             remain'd
             open
             ever
             afterwards
             ;
             but
             't
             is
             extremely
             decay'd
             at
             present
             ,
             and
             part
             of
             it
             is
             fall'n
             away
             .
             However
             I
             spent
             two
             Hours
             near
             it
             with
             a
             great
             deal
             of
             Pleasure
             ;
             for
             the
             Sun
             shone
             very
             bright
             that
             Day
             ,
             and
             the
             Verdure
             of
             the
             Myrtle
             ,
             Orange
             ,
             and
             Limon-Trees
             was
             extremely
             agreeable
             .
          
           
             There
             is
             another
             little
             Chapel
             in
             
               Old
               Cairo
            
             ,
             where
             the
             Virgin
             resided
             for
             some
             time
             :
             and
             near
             that
             there
             are
             large
             Store-houses
             for
             Corn
             ,
             which
             are
             thought
             to
             be
             the
             same
             that
             Joseph
             built
             when
             he
             laid
             up
             Provisions
             against
             the
             seven
             Years
             of
             Famine
             .
          
           
             Thus
             ,
             Sir
             ,
             I
             have
             entertain'd
             you
             with
             an
             Account
             of
             some
             of
             the
             Aegyptian
             Rarities
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             there
             are
             many
             other
             remarkable
             Monuments
             in
             this
             Country
             ,
             that
             are
             worthy
             of
             a
             Traveller's
             Curiosity
             ;
             but
             the
             very
             Sight
             of
             those
             howling
             Desarts
             deterr
             me
             from
             undertaking
             a
             Journey
             that
             wou'd
             expose
             me
             to
             so
             many
             Dangers
             and
             Inconveniencies
             .
             Besides
             't
             wou'd
             require
             a
             great
             deal
             of
             Money
             ,
             and
             I
             begin
             already
             to
             perceive
             that
             I
             must
             
             take
             more
             than
             ordinary
             care
             to
             Husband
             my
             Stock
             .
             I
             find
             also
             that
             the
             same
             consideration
             will
             not
             suffer
             me
             to
             prosecute
             my
             design
             of
             visiting
             the
             
               Holy
               Land
            
             ,
             tho'
             't
             is
             not
             without
             an
             extream
             reluctancy
             that
             I
             'm
             forc'd
             to
             deprive
             my self
             of
             the
             fight
             of
             a
             place
             which
             the
             Saviour
             of
             the
             World
             hallow'd
             with
             his
             presence
             .
             But
             the
             Journey
             is
             prodigiously
             chargeable
             ,
             and
             I
             'm
             resolv'd
             to
             deny
             my self
             that
             satisfaction
             rather
             than
             to
             put
             my self
             in
             a
             condition
             that
             might
             oblige
             me
             to
             return
             to
             France
             .
             I
             intend
             then
             to
             Embark
             on
             a
             
               Greek
               Saique
            
             ,
             which
             in
             few
             days
             will
             set
             Sail
             for
             Smyrna
             ,
             where
             ,
             I
             hope
             ,
             I
             may
             easily
             find
             an
             occasion
             for
             Venice
             .
          
           
             I
             am
             ,
             
               SIR
               ,
            
             
               Your
               &c.
               
            
             
               Cairo
               ,
               
                 Feb.
                 1691.
                 
              
            
          
        
         
           
             LETTER
             XVIII
             .
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
          
           
             AFter
             a
             very
             troublesome
             Voyage
             that
             lasted
             a
             whole
             Month
             ,
             I
             arriv'd
             at
             Smyrna
             ,
             a
             City
             of
             Natolia
             ,
             a
             hundred
             Miles
             from
             Scio
             ,
             where
             you
             may
             remember
             I
             stay'd
             so
             long
             that
             I
             found
             Matter
             enough
             for
             a
             whole
             Letter
             .
          
           
             Smyrna
             was
             formerly
             seated
             on
             two
             Mountains
             ,
             separated
             by
             a
             pleasant
             Valley
             that
             divided
             the
             City
             into
             two
             Parts
             ,
             one
             of
             which
             was
             not
             above
             a
             quarter
             of
             a
             League
             distant
             from
             the
             Sea.
             This
             Mountain
             is
             so
             high
             that
             you
             cou'd
             not
             go
             up
             or
             rather
             climb
             the
             steep
             ascent
             in
             less
             than
             a
             full
             quarter
             of
             an
             hour
             :
             And
             on
             the
             top
             of
             it
             was
             a
             large
             
             Castle
             fortifi'd
             both
             by
             Nature
             and
             Art
             ;
             for
             besides
             the
             advantages
             of
             its
             Situation
             ,
             't
             was
             surrounded
             with
             high
             and
             thick
             Walls
             ,
             on
             which
             there
             was
             a
             Parapet
             embattel'd
             after
             the
             Oriental
             fashion
             ;
             and
             certainly
             't
             is
             not
             easily
             conceivable
             how
             so
             many
             Stones
             cou'd
             be
             carry'd
             up
             so
             high
             .
             The
             Gate
             of
             the
             Castle
             is
             defended
             by
             two
             round
             Towers
             join'd
             to
             the
             Wall
             :
             And
             in
             the
             Stone-work
             of
             the
             Tower
             that
             stands
             on
             the
             right
             hand
             as
             you
             enter
             ,
             there
             is
             a
             Figure
             of
             a
             Woman's
             Head
             and
             Neck
             ,
             a
             Foot
             and
             a
             half
             high
             ,
             which
             is
             said
             to
             represent
             a
             certain
             Amazon
             call'd
             Smyrna
             ,
             who
             having
             Conquer'd
             the
             City
             ,
             call'd
             it
             by
             her
             own
             Name
             ,
             and
             built
             the
             Castle
             .
             The
             inside
             is
             a
             meer
             heap
             of
             Ruines
             ,
             among
             which
             I
             observ'd
             a
             very
             fair
             Cistern
             twenty
             Paces
             long
             and
             twelve
             broad
             ,
             Vaulted
             and
             supported
             by
             six
             fine
             square
             Pillars
             which
             are
             all
             entire
             .
             Besides
             ,
             there
             is
             a
             little
             Chapel
             built
             like
             a
             Mosquee
             ,
             but
             it
             seems
             not
             to
             be
             very
             ancient
             .
             This
             Castle
             commanded
             the
             City
             on
             one
             side
             ,
             and
             the
             Port
             on
             the
             other
             ;
             and
             from
             thence
             you
             have
             an
             unobstructed
             Prospect
             of
             the
             Sea.
             'T
             is
             at
             present
             only
             Inhabited
             by
             a
             Turk
             with
             his
             Wife
             and
             Daughter
             ,
             who
             is
             oblig'd
             to
             keep
             Watch
             ,
             and
             give
             notice
             to
             the
             Merchants
             when
             he
             discovers
             a
             Vessel
             .
             Descending
             from
             thence
             we
             saw
             the
             Ruines
             of
             an
             Amphitheater
             ,
             about
             which
             there
             are
             Ditches
             where
             the
             Lions
             were
             kept
             ;
             and
             somewhat
             higher
             are
             the
             Niches
             where
             the
             Magistrates
             sate
             .
             'T
             was
             here
             that
             S.
             Polycarp
             ,
             the
             first
             Archbishop
             of
             Smyrna
             was
             crown'd
             with
             Martyrdom
             .
             He
             was
             one
             of
             St.
             
             John's
             Disciples
             ,
             and
             yet
             even
             then
             the
             Schism
             of
             the
             Greek
             Church
             was
             begun
             ;
             for
             he
             was
             sent
             to
             the
             Pope
             to
             Negotiate
             an
             Accommodation
             ,
             tho'
             with
             very
             little
             Success
             .
             The
             City
             was
             heretofore
             very
             large
             ,
             as
             it
             appears
             by
             the
             compass
             of
             its
             Walls
             ;
             for
             if
             any
             Man
             will
             give
             himself
             the
             trouble
             to
             take
             an
             exact
             view
             of
             their
             Ruines
             ,
             as
             I
             have
             done
             ,
             
             he
             will
             be
             quickly
             convinc'd
             ,
             that
             't
             was
             above
             twelve
             Miles
             about
             :
             And
             the
             Error
             of
             those
             who
             contract
             its
             Dimensions
             ,
             is
             only
             an
             effect
             of
             their
             Carelesness
             .
          
           
             There
             is
             a
             very
             fine
             Aqueduct
             still
             to
             be
             seen
             ,
             which
             brought
             Water
             to
             the
             part
             of
             the
             City
             next
             the
             Sea.
             It
             reaches
             from
             one
             Hill
             to
             the
             other
             ,
             and
             contains
             300
             Paces
             in
             length
             .
             In
             the
             same
             part
             of
             the
             Town
             there
             are
             very
             ancient
             Burying-places
             ,
             which
             at
             present
             belong
             to
             the
             Jews
             :
             And
             adjoining
             to
             these
             are
             the
             Burying-places
             of
             the
             English
             and
             Dutch
             ,
             where
             there
             are
             very
             magnificent
             Marble
             Tombs
             ,
             enrich'd
             with
             fine
             Relievo's
             .
             This
             Place
             is
             call'd
             St.
             Veneranda
             ,
             from
             the
             Name
             of
             a
             Greek
             Church
             ,
             near
             which
             there
             is
             a
             Spring
             ,
             fam'd
             for
             curing
             Fevers
             miraculously
             ;
             tho'
             I
             'm
             confident
             its
             Vertue
             consists
             only
             in
             quenching
             the
             Thirst
             ,
             which
             it
             does
             very
             effectually
             ,
             for
             't
             is
             extreamly
             cold
             and
             clear
             ,
             and
             may
             for
             that
             reason
             be
             reckon'd
             one
             of
             the
             Rarities
             of
             Smyrna
             ,
             where
             the
             Water
             is
             generally
             bad
             .
          
           
             This
             City
             was
             ruin'd
             in
             the
             time
             of
             
               Mark
               Anthony
            
             ,
             who
             caus'd
             it
             to
             be
             rebuilt
             at
             the
             foot
             of
             the
             Hill
             on
             the
             Sea-side
             ,
             where
             it
             stands
             at
             present
             ,
             stretching
             in
             length
             about
             two
             short
             Miles
             ,
             and
             a
             little
             above
             one
             Mile
             in
             breadth
             .
             This
             situation
             is
             more
             convenient
             for
             Trade
             than
             the
             former
             ,
             and
             besides
             ,
             the
             Heat
             of
             the
             Summer
             is
             agreeably
             temper'd
             by
             a
             cool
             Breeze
             that
             blows
             every
             day
             .
             But
             these
             Advantages
             are
             counter-balanc'd
             by
             the
             Earthquakes
             that
             happen
             so
             frequently
             in
             this
             place
             ,
             and
             make
             such
             a
             terrible
             havock
             that
             the
             Inhabitants
             oftentimes
             wish
             that
             their
             Town
             were
             plac'd
             again
             on
             the
             Hill
             ,
             where
             they
             think
             the
             danger
             wou'd
             not
             be
             so
             great
             .
             For
             't
             is
             generally
             believ'd
             ,
             that
             the
             Earthquakes
             are
             occasion'd
             by
             the
             vast
             and
             deep
             Concavities
             made
             by
             the
             subterraneous
             Streams
             that
             fall
             from
             the
             Mountain
             ,
             where
             the
             Wind
             and
             Vapours
             
             being
             pent
             up
             ,
             and
             endeavouring
             to
             break
             forth
             impetuously
             ,
             cause
             those
             dreadful
             Jolts
             that
             are
             felt
             here
             so
             often
             .
             However
             I
             can
             assure
             you
             ,
             that
             the
             Hill
             is
             much
             less
             subject
             to
             Earthquakes
             than
             the
             place
             where
             the
             City
             stands
             at
             present
             :
             For
             since
             I
             came
             hither
             there
             happen'd
             four
             in
             one
             day
             ,
             and
             all
             of
             'em
             strong
             and
             violent
             enough
             to
             strike
             a
             Terror
             into
             those
             that
             are
             not
             accustom'd
             to
             '
             em
             .
             Nor
             does
             their
             frequency
             make
             'em
             less
             dreadful
             to
             the
             Inhabitants
             of
             this
             place
             ;
             for
             as
             soon
             as
             they
             perceive
             the
             least
             shaking
             of
             the
             Earth
             they
             run
             out
             of
             their
             Houses
             with
             all
             the
             signs
             of
             Fear
             and
             Amazement
             ,
             and
             call
             upon
             God
             ,
             every
             one
             according
             to
             the
             Rites
             of
             his
             Religion
             .
             Nor
             can
             this
             be
             justly
             call'd
             a
             Panic
             Terror
             ,
             for
             they
             were
             so
             roughly
             handl'd
             by
             an
             Earthquake
             three
             Years
             ago
             ,
             that
             I
             I
             wonder
             how
             any
             of
             'em
             durst
             afterwards
             venture
             to
             repair
             their
             ruin'd
             Habitations
             .
             About
             Noon
             ,
             when
             they
             were
             all
             at
             Dinner
             ,
             the
             Earth
             began
             to
             shake
             so
             furiously
             as
             if
             the
             whole
             Machine
             of
             the
             Universe
             had
             been
             falling
             to
             pieces
             .
             A
             thousand
             Houses
             were
             over-turn'd
             in
             an
             Instant
             with
             a
             hideous
             dinn
             ,
             and
             3000
             Persons
             were
             buried
             under
             the
             Ruines
             .
             The
             rest
             who
             had
             the
             good
             Fortune
             to
             escape
             ,
             were
             seiz'd
             with
             a
             terrible
             Consternation
             ,
             and
             ran
             wildly
             about
             ,
             not
             knowing
             whither
             to
             flee
             ,
             nor
             where
             to
             hide
             themselves
             ;
             for
             they
             were
             still
             alarm'd
             with
             repeated
             Jolts
             .
             And
             besides
             ,
             the
             lurking
             Fires
             that
             lay
             hid
             among
             the
             Ruines
             were
             fann'd
             and
             blown
             up
             so
             violently
             by
             a
             strong
             Gale
             ,
             which
             accompany'd
             the
             Earthquake
             ,
             that
             the
             Flame
             cou'd
             not
             be
             extinguish'd
             for
             the
             space
             of
             two
             days
             ,
             till
             the
             very
             Rubbish
             of
             the
             Houses
             was
             consum'd
             .
             Add
             to
             this
             dismal
             Spectacle
             the
             howlings
             of
             those
             Wretches
             that
             were
             not
             quite
             kill'd
             by
             the
             fall
             of
             the
             Houses
             ,
             and
             you
             'll
             find
             your self
             oblig'd
             to
             acknowledge
             ,
             that
             never
             any
             accident
             produc'd
             a
             more
             lamentable
             Scene
             of
             Misery
             .
             At
             last
             the
             Seamen
             
             that
             were
             on
             Board
             the
             Vessels
             in
             the
             Port
             ,
             came
             a-shore
             ,
             and
             found
             above
             500
             Persons
             alive
             under
             the
             Ruines
             ,
             some
             with
             broken
             Legs
             ,
             and
             others
             with
             broken
             Arms
             ;
             some
             were
             bruis'd
             all
             over
             ,
             and
             all
             in
             general
             were
             Objects
             of
             Pity
             and
             Compassion
             .
             The
             Captains
             of
             the
             Ships
             carry'd
             those
             who
             were
             Hurt
             or
             Wounded
             on
             Board
             ,
             with
             the
             most
             considerable
             Persons
             of
             their
             respective
             Nations
             :
             But
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             Inhabitants
             were
             forc'd
             to
             lie
             abroad
             till
             they
             had
             prepar'd
             new
             Lodgings
             ,
             which
             were
             only
             some
             paltry
             Huts
             of
             Straw
             .
             That
             part
             of
             the
             City
             where
             the
             Franks
             live
             was
             most
             violently
             shaken
             ,
             so
             that
             they
             were
             all
             Sufferers
             ,
             and
             most
             of
             'em
             lost
             in
             one
             day
             the
             fruit
             of
             many
             Years
             Labour
             .
             Some
             that
             had
             strip'd
             themselves
             to
             the
             very
             Shirt
             to
             enjoy
             with
             greater
             Pleasure
             the
             Coolness
             of
             the
             Wind
             ,
             were
             reduc'd
             to
             the
             necessity
             of
             begging
             Coats
             to
             cover
             their
             Nakedness
             .
             As
             for
             the
             Societies
             of
             Merchants
             ,
             tho'
             they
             were
             considerable
             Sharers
             in
             the
             common
             Calamity
             ,
             the
             greatness
             of
             their
             Stocks
             kept
             'em
             from
             falling
             into
             such
             an
             excess
             of
             Misery
             .
             The
             English
             and
             Dutch
             particularly
             are
             so
             rich
             ,
             that
             they
             can
             easily
             support
             the
             loss
             of
             50000
             Livres
             :
             But
             every
             Man
             suffer'd
             proportionably
             to
             his
             Estate
             ,
             and
             it
             may
             be
             said
             that
             the
             Poor
             lost
             more
             than
             the
             Rich
             ,
             because
             they
             were
             depriv'd
             of
             their
             All.
             
          
           
             Monsieur
             Fabre
             the
             French
             Consul
             perish'd
             under
             the
             Ruines
             ,
             notwithstanding
             all
             the
             Endeavours
             that
             were
             us'd
             to
             save
             him
             ;
             and
             several
             Rich
             Merchants
             had
             the
             same
             Fate
             .
             Next
             Year
             the
             Plague
             broke
             forth
             among
             those
             whom
             the
             Fire
             and
             the
             Earthquake
             had
             spar'd
             ;
             and
             the
             last
             Year
             may
             be
             reckon'd
             as
             Calamitous
             as
             either
             of
             the
             former
             ,
             by
             reason
             of
             the
             horrible
             Disorders
             that
             were
             committed
             here
             by
             the
             Algerines
             and
             Barbarians
             .
             Thus
             ,
             within
             the
             compass
             of
             
               Three
               Years
            
             ,
             this
             City
             has
             suffer'd
             Four
             of
             the
             severest
             Judgments
             that
             are
             usually
             
             inflicted
             by
             Heaven
             .
             These
             Misfortunes
             wou'd
             have
             ruin'd
             a
             poor
             Town
             ,
             but
             there
             are
             hardly
             any
             Footsteps
             of
             'em
             left
             in
             this
             ;
             for
             't
             is
             almost
             quite
             Rebuilt
             already
             ,
             and
             the
             Street
             where
             the
             Franks
             live
             is
             fairer
             than
             't
             was
             before
             .
          
           
             This
             is
             the
             most
             considerable
             seat
             of
             Commerce
             in
             the
             Levant
             ,
             and
             the
             Dignity
             of
             the
             Consuls
             who
             reside
             here
             is
             next
             to
             that
             of
             Ambassadors
             .
             Their
             Jurisdiction
             is
             extended
             over
             
               Natolia
               ,
               Scio
               ,
               Metelin
            
             ,
             and
             several
             other
             Islands
             of
             the
             Archipelago
             ,
             in
             which
             they
             appoint
             Vice-Consuls
             ,
             who
             govern
             under
             their
             Authority
             .
             This
             is
             a
             very
             Honourable
             Employment
             ,
             and
             those
             who
             are
             possest
             of
             it
             are
             much
             respected
             ,
             even
             by
             the
             Turks
             ,
             who
             have
             as
             great
             a
             Veneration
             for
             Consuls
             as
             for
             Ambassadors
             ,
             and
             receive
             'em
             at
             Audiences
             with
             the
             same
             Ceremonies
             .
             When
             they
             go
             thro'
             the
             Streets
             ,
             the
             Turks
             draw
             up
             in
             Files
             ,
             and
             open
             a
             Passage
             for
             'em
             ,
             as
             for
             a
             Bassa
             :
             Nor
             do
             they
             ever
             walk
             abroad
             without
             two
             Interpreters
             ,
             and
             as
             many
             Janisaries
             ,
             who
             march
             before
             'em
             ,
             and
             serve
             instead
             of
             a
             Life-Guard
             ;
             and
             besides
             ,
             they
             are
             accompany'd
             with
             two
             or
             three
             Merchants
             ,
             and
             follow'd
             by
             their
             Servants
             in
             Livery
             .
             But
             on
             the
             days
             of
             Audience
             their
             Train
             is
             more
             numerous
             and
             splendid
             ,
             for
             they
             are
             always
             preceded
             by
             six
             Interpreters
             ,
             and
             a
             like
             number
             of
             Janisaries
             ,
             with
             Zercola's
             on
             their
             Heads
             ;
             and
             follow'd
             by
             all
             the
             most
             considerable
             Persons
             of
             the
             Nation
             ,
             whose
             number
             sometimes
             amounts
             to
             above
             forty
             .
             Nor
             does
             the
             Grandeur
             of
             this
             Post
             consist
             meerly
             in
             external
             Pomp
             ;
             for
             their
             Power
             is
             as
             considerable
             as
             their
             State
             ,
             and
             their
             Authority
             over
             their
             respective
             Nations
             exceeds
             that
             of
             ordinary
             Governors
             ,
             so
             much
             the
             more
             as
             they
             are
             farther
             distant
             from
             the
             Court.
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             that
             in
             the
             management
             of
             Affairs
             that
             meerly
             regard
             Trade
             ,
             they
             are
             oblig'd
             to
             call
             a
             Meeting
             of
             the
             Principal
             Merchants
             ,
             who
             decide
             the
             Matter
             by
             plurality
             of
             
             Voices
             ,
             and
             the
             Consul
             is
             only
             President
             of
             the
             Assembly
             .
             But
             in
             all
             cases
             that
             relate
             to
             the
             administration
             of
             Justice
             or
             the
             Government
             of
             a
             City
             ,
             he
             represents
             the
             Person
             of
             the
             Sovereign
             ,
             and
             is
             as
             exactly
             obey'd
             .
             He
             is
             the
             absolute
             Judge
             of
             all
             Suits
             or
             Actions
             ,
             whether
             Criminal
             or
             Civil
             ;
             and
             has
             under
             him
             a
             Chancellor
             ,
             who
             performs
             the
             Office
             of
             a
             Clerk
             and
             Notary
             ,
             a
             Secretary
             ,
             and
             a
             Treasurer
             ,
             who
             receives
             all
             the
             Money
             that
             is
             sent
             either
             on
             the
             publick
             Account
             ,
             or
             by
             way
             of
             private
             Commission
             .
             The
             Dignity
             of
             his
             Function
             is
             also
             conspicuous
             in
             the
             Church
             ,
             where
             he
             sits
             in
             an
             arm'd
             Chair
             ,
             with
             a
             Cushion
             of
             Crimson
             Velvet
             to
             kneel
             upon
             .
             But
             the
             main
             advantage
             of
             this
             Office
             is
             in
             my
             Opinion
             the
             largeness
             of
             its
             Revenue
             ,
             which
             seldom
             or
             never
             amounts
             to
             less
             than
             18000
             
               French
               Livres
            
             .
             All
             Franks
             are
             oblig'd
             at
             their
             Arrival
             to
             address
             themselves
             to
             their
             respective
             Consuls
             ,
             and
             desire
             their
             Protection
             ,
             or
             otherwise
             must
             expect
             to
             be
             seiz'd
             ,
             and
             sent
             back
             to
             their
             own
             Country
             .
             Yet
             ,
             without
             any
             regard
             to
             that
             Custom
             ,
             I
             have
             put
             my self
             under
             the
             Protection
             of
             Monsieur
             
               de
               Hochepied
            
             ,
             the
             Dutch
             Consul
             :
             For
             when
             I
             went
             to
             see
             him
             ,
             and
             acquainted
             him
             with
             my
             design
             ,
             he
             offer'd
             me
             that
             Favour
             with
             so
             much
             Generosity
             ,
             that
             I
             neither
             cou'd
             ,
             nor
             was
             willing
             ,
             to
             refuse
             it
             .
             Nor
             did
             his
             Civility
             stop
             there
             ,
             for
             he
             oblig'd
             me
             to
             accept
             of
             a
             Lodging
             in
             his
             fine
             House
             ,
             where
             I
             need
             not
             be
             afraid
             of
             my
             Countrymen's
             Indignation
             .
             However
             ,
             to
             avoid
             any
             accident
             that
             might
             happen
             ,
             I
             seldom
             or
             never
             go
             abroad
             but
             in
             his
             Company
             ,
             tho'
             ,
             considering
             the
             kindness
             he
             expresses
             to
             me
             on
             all
             occasions
             ,
             I
             believe
             I
             might
             walk
             alone
             without
             any
             danger
             .
             For
             he
             is
             so
             much
             honour'd
             ,
             respected
             ,
             and
             belov'd
             by
             all
             the
             Nations
             who
             reside
             here
             ,
             and
             even
             by
             the
             French
             themselves
             ,
             that
             there
             is
             not
             one
             Person
             ,
             small
             or
             great
             ,
             who
             wou'd
             not
             run
             to
             Japan
             ,
             rather
             than
             disoblige
             him
             .
             He
             is
             usually
             
             call'd
             ,
             
               The
               Consul
            
             ,
             without
             any
             Addition
             ,
             as
             if
             he
             were
             the
             only
             Person
             in
             Smyrna
             who
             cou'd
             pretend
             to
             that
             Character
             :
             The
             rest
             of
             the
             Consuls
             are
             known
             by
             the
             Names
             of
             their
             respective
             Nations
             ,
             but
             he
             is
             
               The
               Consul
            
             by
             way
             of
             Eminency
             .
             And
             ,
             to
             give
             you
             a
             better
             Idea
             of
             him
             ,
             I
             can
             assure
             you
             that
             so
             universal
             a
             Love
             and
             Esteem
             is
             purely
             the
             effect
             of
             his
             Merit
             ;
             for
             he
             is
             Master
             of
             a
             vast
             Wit
             ,
             his
             Temper
             is
             sweet
             ,
             civil
             ,
             and
             obliging
             ,
             and
             in
             one
             world
             he
             is
             a
             
               compleat
               Person
            
             ,
             which
             I
             think
             is
             the
             justest
             and
             most
             expressive
             Account
             I
             can
             give
             you
             of
             him
             .
             There
             are
             so
             many
             Perfections
             requir'd
             to
             make
             a
             Man
             worthy
             of
             that
             Character
             ,
             that
             a
             Compleat
             Man
             is
             certainly
             one
             of
             the
             greatest
             Rarities
             of
             this
             Age
             :
             But
             all
             these
             Qualifications
             are
             united
             in
             him
             .
             He
             is
             descended
             of
             a
             Noble
             and
             Ancient
             Family
             in
             Holland
             ,
             which
             can
             boast
             of
             an
             uninterrupted
             Succession
             for
             above
             300
             Years
             ,
             and
             is
             Ally'd
             to
             the
             Principal
             Houses
             in
             the
             Netherlands
             .
             Among
             the
             rest
             I
             shall
             only
             mention
             its
             late
             Alliance
             with
             the
             most
             ancient
             Family
             of
             the
             Collier's
             ,
             which
             is
             originally
             of
             Scotland
             :
             Their
             *
             Device
             is
             the
             finest
             that
             ever
             I
             saw
             ,
             nor
             do
             they
             bear
             it
             in
             vain
             .
             For
             they
             have
             upon
             all
             occasions
             signaliz'd
             their
             Courage
             in
             Military
             Atchievements
             ;
             and
             there
             are
             at
             present
             three
             of
             that
             Family
             in
             the
             King's
             Service
             ,
             who
             seem
             to
             make
             Valour
             their
             Favourite
             Vertue
             ,
             and
             are
             known
             and
             esteem'd
             by
             the
             whole
             Army
             ,
             both
             for
             that
             and
             a
             thousand
             other
             no
             less
             glorious
             Endowments
             .
          
           
             
               Madam
               de
               Hochepied
            
             is
             the
             Sister
             of
             the
             present
             ,
             and
             Daughter
             of
             the
             late
             
               Dutch
               Ambassador
            
             .
             She
             's
             a
             finish'd
             Beauty
             ,
             and
             has
             the
             Air
             of
             a
             Princess
             ;
             and
             besides
             (
             which
             is
             as
             true
             as
             it
             seems
             incredible
             )
             she
             is
             absolutely
             Mistress
             of
             Seven
             of
             the
             most
             difficult
             and
             opposite
             Languages
             in
             the
             World.
             For
             besides
             the
             Dutch
             ,
             which
             is
             her
             natural
             Tongue
             ,
             she
             speaks
             the
             
               French
               ,
               Italian
               ,
               Greek
               ,
               Russian
               ,
               Turkish
               ,
            
             and
             
             Arabian
             Languages
             ,
             and
             speaks
             'em
             all
             so
             perfectly
             well
             ,
             that
             I
             have
             often
             heard
             her
             explaining
             to
             Interpreters
             the
             true
             sense
             of
             certain
             hard
             Words
             ,
             of
             which
             they
             were
             ignorant
             before
             .
             In
             short
             ,
             she
             's
             in
             all
             respects
             an
             admirable
             Person
             .
             Judge
             ,
             Sir
             ,
             whether
             I
             can
             think
             the
             time
             tedious
             which
             I
             spend
             in
             such
             agreeable
             Company
             ,
             and
             in
             a
             House
             where
             I
             'm
             so
             kindly
             entertain'd
             ;
             and
             whether
             you
             can
             blame
             me
             for
             not
             hastening
             my
             departure
             .
             I
             'm
             resolv'd
             to
             expect
             an
             occasion
             for
             Venice
             ,
             and
             I
             believe
             't
             will
             be
             a
             long
             time
             before
             I
             can
             find
             one
             ;
             because
             the
             Venetian
             Vessels
             never
             venture
             to
             appear
             in
             this
             part
             of
             the
             Sea
             ,
             till
             the
             
               Turkish
               Fleet
            
             be
             laid
             up
             ,
             tho'
             they
             have
             no
             great
             reason
             to
             dread
             it
             ,
             since
             the
             
               Grand
               Signior
            
             ,
             for
             all
             his
             Grandeur
             ,
             is
             Master
             only
             of
             
               Eleven
               Ships
               of
               War.
            
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             if
             all
             his
             Galleys
             wou'd
             put
             to
             Sea
             ,
             their
             number
             might
             at
             least
             amount
             to
             200
             ;
             but
             as
             Affairs
             are
             manag'd
             at
             present
             ,
             his
             Navy
             makes
             no
             great
             Figure
             .
             You
             may
             expect
             a
             more
             particular
             Account
             of
             these
             things
             in
             my
             next
             .
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             ,
          
           
             I
             am
             ,
             
               SIR
               ,
            
             Your
             &c.
             
             
               Smyrna
               ,
               
                 Apr.
                 1691.
                 
              
            
          
        
         
           
           
             LETTER
             XIX
             .
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
          
           
             YOU
             might
             justly
             accuse
             me
             of
             Laziness
             ,
             or
             want
             of
             Complaisance
             ,
             if
             I
             shou'd
             not
             employ
             the
             leisure
             I
             enjoy
             at
             present
             in
             recollecting
             my
             Observations
             concerning
             the
             Government
             ,
             Religion
             ,
             Manners
             ,
             and
             Customs
             of
             the
             Turks
             .
             I
             shall
             endeavour
             therefore
             to
             satisfie
             your
             Curiosity
             ,
             by
             entertaining
             you
             with
             a
             short
             account
             of
             these
             Subjects
             ,
             avoiding
             all
             impertinent
             Repetitions
             of
             those
             obvious
             and
             common
             Remarks
             that
             are
             to
             be
             met
             with
             in
             almost
             every
             Book
             of
             Voyages
             .
             And
             I
             hope
             the
             Points
             I
             propose
             to
             handle
             will
             furnish
             me
             with
             sufficient
             Matter
             for
             
               Three
               Letters
            
             ;
             the
             first
             of
             which
             shall
             treat
             of
             the
             Government
             ,
             the
             second
             of
             the
             Religion
             ,
             and
             the
             third
             of
             the
             Manners
             and
             Customs
             of
             the
             Turks
             .
          
           
             The
             
               Turkish
               Empire
            
             ,
             according
             to
             the
             primitive
             and
             fundamental
             Constitution
             of
             the
             Government
             ,
             is
             absolutely
             and
             entirely
             Despotic
             ;
             that
             is
             ,
             a
             Supream
             and
             Arbitrary
             Power
             is
             lodg●d
             in
             the
             Person
             of
             the
             Emperor
             ,
             whose
             Will
             is
             the
             only
             Law
             by
             which
             he
             Rules
             ,
             and
             who
             acknowledges
             no
             other
             Maxim
             of
             Government
             than
             
               Sic
               volo
               ,
               sic
               jubeo
            
             .
             He
             is
             not
             curb'd
             by
             any
             written
             Law
             or
             Custom
             ,
             and
             those
             whom
             he
             Oppresses
             have
             not
             so
             much
             as
             a
             right
             to
             Complain
             .
             He
             may
             take
             away
             any
             Man's
             Estate
             ,
             and
             either
             keep
             it
             ,
             or
             give
             it
             to
             another
             .
             Sometimes
             he
             passes
             by
             the
             most
             ancient
             
             Bassa's
             ,
             and
             in
             one
             day
             advances
             a
             simple
             Chiaux
             ,
             or
             even
             a
             Cook
             ,
             to
             the
             Dignity
             of
             
               Grand
               Visier
            
             .
             He
             sends
             for
             the
             Heads
             of
             those
             whom
             he
             has
             a
             Mind
             to
             be
             rid
             of
             ,
             who
             are
             Murder'd
             without
             any
             Trial
             or
             
             Form
             of
             Justice
             ,
             and
             even
             without
             knowing
             the
             Reason
             of
             his
             Displeasure
             .
             In
             one
             Word
             ,
             his
             Pleasure
             is
             the
             supreme
             and
             uncontroulable
             Law.
             This
             unlimited
             Power
             of
             the
             Sultan
             is
             founded
             on
             the
             
               Mahometan
               Religion
            
             ,
             which
             enjoins
             a
             blind
             Obedience
             to
             all
             his
             Commands
             under
             Pain
             of
             Damnation
             .
             But
             the
             Turks
             of
             late
             have
             render'd
             their
             Slavery
             more
             tolerable
             ;
             for
             tho'
             they
             have
             made
             no
             Alteration
             in
             the
             Constitution
             of
             the
             Government
             ,
             their
             Practices
             are
             very
             different
             from
             what
             they
             were
             heretofore
             .
          
           
             The
             
               Grand
               Visier
            
             is
             the
             Chief
             Minister
             of
             State
             ,
             and
             is
             call'd
             King
             by
             the
             Turks
             ,
             to
             shew
             how
             much
             the
             Sultans
             slight
             and
             undervalue
             that
             Title
             ,
             in
             Imitation
             of
             the
             Old
             
               Roman
               Emperours
            
             ,
             who
             bestow'd
             Kingdoms
             on
             their
             Favourites
             .
             This
             is
             the
             Reason
             why
             the
             
               Grand
               Signior
            
             stiles
             himself
             
               The
               Protector
               of
               Persecuted
               Kings
            
             ,
             and
             the
             
               Distributer
               of
               Crowns
            
             ;
             tho'
             he
             wears
             none
             himself
             ,
             not
             even
             on
             the
             Day
             of
             his
             Public
             Inauguration
             ,
             for
             the
             only
             Badge
             of
             his
             Imperial
             Dignity
             is
             a
             magnificent
             Sabre
             ,
             enrich'd
             with
             precious
             Stones
             ,
             which
             the
             Mufti
             girds
             to
             his
             Side
             .
             The
             
               Grand
               Visier
            
             is
             entrusted
             with
             the
             whole
             Management
             of
             Affairs
             ,
             and
             his
             Power
             is
             almost
             equal
             to
             the
             
             Sultan's
             .
             He
             is
             in
             a
             great
             measure
             the
             Arbiter
             of
             Peace
             and
             War
             ,
             and
             creates
             the
             Fortune
             of
             all
             the
             Great
             Officers
             in
             the
             Empire
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             he
             ought
             not
             to
             do
             any
             thing
             without
             the
             Advice
             of
             a
             Council
             ,
             compos'd
             of
             seven
             Bassa's
             ,
             call'd
             the
             
               Visiers
               of
               the
               Bench
            
             :
             but
             they
             have
             only
             a
             Shadow
             of
             Authority
             ,
             which
             scarce
             deserves
             to
             be
             mention'd
             .
          
           
             The
             next
             in
             Order
             ,
             are
             the
             Bassa's
             ,
             who
             are
             a
             sort
             of
             Vice-Roys
             in
             the
             Provinces
             .
             Their
             Office
             is
             to
             administer
             Justice
             exactly
             ,
             and
             to
             keep
             the
             People
             in
             Subjection
             to
             the
             Government
             .
             They
             are
             also
             oblig'd
             to
             pay
             a
             yearly
             Tribute
             to
             the
             
               Grand
               Signior
            
             ,
             both
             of
             Money
             and
             Slaves
             ,
             without
             reck'ning
             
             the
             Carache
             ,
             Customs
             ,
             and
             other
             Imposts
             that
             are
             usually
             exacted
             .
             This
             is
             the
             utmost
             Extent
             of
             the
             Legal
             Authority
             of
             the
             Bassa's
             ;
             but
             they
             commonly
             abuse
             their
             Power
             ,
             and
             are
             more
             arbitrary
             Tyrants
             than
             the
             
               Grand
               Signior
            
             himself
             .
             Their
             principal
             Aim
             is
             to
             raise
             their
             Fortune
             speedily
             ;
             and
             in
             order
             to
             that
             they
             rob
             the
             Widow
             and
             Orphan
             ,
             and
             fill
             the
             Land
             with
             Spoil
             and
             Oppression
             ,
             never
             scrupling
             to
             commit
             a
             gainful
             Crime
             ,
             tho'
             attended
             with
             the
             basest
             Circumstances
             .
             The
             Sultan
             is
             forc'd
             to
             dissemble
             his
             Knowledge
             of
             these
             Disorders
             ,
             for
             want
             of
             Power
             to
             suppress
             'em
             :
             for
             every
             Bassa
             maintains
             some
             standing
             Forces
             at
             his
             own
             Charge
             ,
             whose
             Assistance
             he
             may
             command
             upon
             all
             Occasions
             ,
             if
             their
             Payment
             be
             not
             wholly
             neglected
             .
             Whereas
             the
             Sultan
             ,
             who
             for
             the
             most
             part
             wants
             Money
             to
             pay
             his
             Army
             ,
             and
             perhaps
             does
             not
             shew
             himself
             twice
             in
             his
             Life
             to
             the
             Soldiers
             ,
             is
             so
             far
             from
             being
             Master
             of
             'em
             ,
             that
             he
             is
             almost
             always
             constrain'd
             to
             submit
             to
             their
             Authority
             .
             This
             is
             the
             fatal
             Source
             of
             all
             those
             Seditions
             that
             have
             so
             often
             shaken
             ,
             and
             will
             at
             last
             overturn
             the
             Empire
             .
             For
             how
             can
             we
             suppose
             that
             Subjects
             will
             either
             love
             or
             fear
             a
             lazy
             Prince
             ,
             that
             takes
             no
             Share
             in
             the
             Business
             of
             State
             or
             War
             :
             a
             Prince
             ,
             that
             contents
             himself
             with
             a
             Chimerical
             Show
             of
             Grandeur
             and
             Power
             ,
             and
             seems
             rather
             to
             be
             a
             Mock-King
             in
             a
             Farce
             than
             a
             Ruler
             of
             Kingdoms
             ?
             'T
             is
             plain
             both
             from
             Reason
             and
             Experience
             ,
             that
             a
             great
             Monarch
             ,
             who
             wou'd
             be
             the
             absolute
             Master
             of
             his
             Subjects
             ,
             ought
             to
             apply
             himself
             to
             the
             Execution
             and
             Reformation
             of
             the
             Laws
             ,
             and
             above
             all
             ,
             to
             gain
             the
             Esteem
             and
             Affection
             of
             his
             Soldiers
             ,
             whom
             he
             ought
             to
             look
             upon
             as
             the
             surest
             Prop
             and
             Support
             of
             his
             Authority
             .
             An
             Army
             in
             a
             State
             cannot
             remain
             indifferent
             ;
             they
             must
             and
             will
             have
             a
             Master
             ;
             and
             will
             either
             continue
             faithful
             to
             the
             Crown
             ,
             or
             espouse
             the
             Interest
             of
             some
             designing
             Subject
             :
             And
             therefore
             it
             ought
             to
             
             be
             the
             Prince's
             Care
             to
             discover
             their
             Inclinations
             ,
             and
             to
             act
             accordingly
             .
             Kings
             are
             as
             feeble
             Creatures
             as
             other
             Men
             ,
             and
             as
             unable
             to
             perform
             any
             Great
             Action
             by
             their
             own
             Power
             :
             but
             when
             they
             are
             at
             the
             Head
             of
             100000
             Men
             ,
             all
             devoted
             to
             their
             Interest
             ,
             't
             is
             then
             they
             become
             the
             Terrour
             of
             the
             World
             ,
             and
             their
             Power
             is
             almost
             as
             boundless
             as
             their
             Ambition
             .
             The
             Fate
             of
             Monarchs
             depends
             on
             their
             Armies
             ,
             and
             without
             these
             neither
             
               Alexander
               ,
               Caesar
            
             ,
             nor
             Lewis
             XIV
             .
             cou'd
             have
             gain'd
             one
             Inch
             of
             Ground
             .
             This
             is
             so
             evident
             and
             certain
             a
             Truth
             ,
             that
             never
             any
             Person
             had
             the
             Confidence
             to
             controvert
             it
             :
             and
             I
             believe
             the
             
               Ottoman
               Emperours
            
             are
             of
             the
             same
             Opinion
             ,
             tho'
             all
             their
             Actions
             seem
             to
             be
             grounded
             on
             very
             different
             ,
             and
             even
             opposite
             Maxims
             .
             A
             Prince
             that
             wou'd
             secure
             the
             Loyalty
             of
             his
             Forces
             ,
             must
             take
             care
             of
             'em
             himself
             ,
             visit
             'em
             often
             ,
             give
             out
             all
             Orders
             ,
             preferr
             Men
             of
             known
             Merit
             ,
             keep
             both
             the
             Officers
             and
             Soldiers
             under
             an
             exact
             Discipline
             ,
             and
             pay
             'em
             as
             punctually
             as
             he
             can
             .
             The
             
               Grand
               Signior
            
             observes
             not
             one
             of
             these
             Maxims
             ,
             and
             therefore
             he
             may
             blame
             himself
             for
             the
             Unruliness
             of
             his
             Army
             .
             But
             the
             Government
             is
             guilty
             of
             another
             Blunder
             ,
             which
             ,
             in
             my
             Opinion
             ,
             is
             no
             less
             fatal
             than
             the
             former
             ;
             I
             mean
             the
             usual
             way
             of
             appeasing
             Seditions
             ,
             which
             break
             forth
             oftner
             than
             once
             a
             Year
             .
             For
             every
             Tumult
             that
             shakes
             the
             
             Sultan's
             Throne
             ,
             costs
             him
             the
             Heads
             of
             a
             hundred
             of
             his
             Principal
             Officers
             :
             The
             
               Grand
               Visier
            
             is
             commonly
             made
             the
             first
             Sacrifice
             ,
             and
             afterwards
             that
             important
             Charge
             is
             entrusted
             to
             some
             young
             and
             unexperienc'd
             Person
             ,
             as
             if
             a
             
               Minister
               of
               State
            
             cou'd
             spring
             up
             in
             a
             Night
             like
             a
             Mushroom
             .
             This
             Custom
             is
             directly
             opposite
             to
             common
             Sence
             ,
             which
             teaches
             us
             that
             no
             Man
             ought
             to
             be
             advanc'd
             to
             so
             high
             a
             Post
             ,
             but
             one
             that
             has
             been
             long
             accustom'd
             to
             State-Business
             ,
             and
             has
             spent
             his
             whole
             Life
             in
             fitting
             himself
             for
             the
             Management
             of
             so
             great
             a
             Trust
             .
             
             These
             Considerations
             give
             me
             an
             Idea
             of
             the
             
               Turkish
               Empire
            
             ,
             which
             I
             cannot
             express
             better
             than
             by
             comparing
             it
             to
             a
             Coach
             drawn
             by
             a
             Sett
             of
             
               ungovernable
               Horses
            
             ,
             each
             of
             which
             pulls
             a
             contrary
             Way
             .
          
           
             If
             we
             descend
             lower
             ,
             and
             take
             a
             more
             particular
             View
             of
             the
             Government
             ,
             we
             shall
             every
             where
             find
             the
             dismal
             Effects
             of
             these
             Disorders
             .
             The
             Distempers
             of
             the
             Head
             are
             usually
             communicated
             to
             the
             
               Inferiour
               Members
            
             :
             And
             I
             never
             saw
             a
             Country
             ,
             where
             Justice
             is
             so
             often
             and
             so
             impudently
             perverted
             ,
             by
             those
             who
             are
             entrusted
             with
             the
             Execution
             of
             it
             .
             I
             know
             't
             is
             the
             Custom
             of
             some
             Travellers
             to
             magnifie
             the
             Turkish
             way
             of
             administring
             Justice
             :
             but
             such
             a
             groundless
             Conceit
             is
             only
             the
             Effect
             of
             the
             powerful
             Inclination
             most
             Men
             have
             to
             admire
             every
             thing
             that
             is
             unusual
             or
             extraordinary
             .
             And
             I
             'm
             confident
             that
             a
             bare
             Account
             of
             their
             Method
             of
             Judging
             Civil
             and
             Criminal
             Causes
             ,
             will
             give
             you
             a
             very
             different
             Notion
             of
             their
             boasted
             Justice
             ;
             You
             ,
             I
             say
             ,
             who
             are
             not
             tainted
             with
             those
             common
             Prejudices
             ,
             but
             are
             always
             wont
             to
             judge
             of
             things
             as
             they
             
               are
               in
               themselves
            
             ,
             without
             considering
             whether
             they
             are
             rare
             or
             common
             .
          
           
             They
             have
             no
             
               written
               Laws
            
             but
             what
             are
             contain'd
             in
             the
             Alcoran
             ,
             which
             they
             hold
             to
             be
             the
             Rule
             of
             Faith
             ,
             and
             Standard
             of
             Justice
             ,
             and
             every
             thing
             that
             it
             forbids
             is
             esteem'd
             unlawful
             and
             punishable
             .
             Nevertheless
             the
             Bassa's
             and
             Cadi's
             judge
             as
             they
             please
             ,
             for
             the
             Book
             is
             very
             short
             ,
             and
             besides
             a
             great
             deal
             fuller
             of
             Dreams
             and
             Absurdities
             than
             of
             Laws
             or
             Moral
             Precepts
             ;
             and
             those
             few
             it
             contains
             are
             so
             ambiguously
             express'd
             ,
             and
             deliver'd
             in
             so
             loose
             a
             Manner
             ,
             that
             these
             greedy
             Officers
             cannot
             desire
             a
             more
             favourable
             Opportunity
             to
             satisfie
             their
             Avarice
             .
             Besides
             they
             judge
             without
             Appeal
             ,
             and
             cause
             the
             Sentence
             to
             be
             executed
             upon
             the
             Spot
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             some
             highly
             injur'd
             Persons
             have
             recourse
             to
             the
             Grand
             Signior's
             Divan
             ;
             but
             
             then
             the
             Injustice
             must
             be
             very
             plain
             and
             inexcusable
             ,
             or
             't
             is
             in
             vain
             to
             expect
             Satisfaction
             ;
             and
             that
             is
             so
             seldom
             obtain'd
             ,
             that
             few
             prudent
             Men
             will
             venture
             on
             so
             troublesome
             and
             expensive
             a
             Journey
             :
             for
             since
             't
             is
             not
             the
             Custom
             to
             record
             either
             the
             Pleadings
             ,
             or
             the
             Sentence
             ,
             the
             Judge
             may
             easily
             elude
             all
             the
             Arguments
             of
             his
             Accusers
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             the
             Number
             of
             the
             Plaintiffs
             is
             usually
             so
             great
             ,
             and
             the
             Informations
             of
             other
             Officers
             so
             positive
             ,
             that
             the
             Truth
             is
             at
             last
             discover'd
             ,
             and
             the
             Offenders
             are
             punish'd
             .
             But
             tho'
             few
             Cadi's
             leave
             the
             Office
             with
             Honour
             ,
             there
             is
             not
             the
             least
             Care
             taken
             to
             repair
             the
             Losses
             of
             those
             whom
             they
             have
             ruin'd
             .
             For
             ,
             besides
             what
             I
             intimated
             before
             ,
             that
             their
             Proceedings
             are
             not
             register'd
             ,
             the
             new
             Cadi
             is
             usually
             as
             great
             a
             Rogue
             as
             his
             Predecessour
             ;
             so
             that
             the
             poor
             oppress'd
             People
             must
             bear
             their
             Misfortunes
             as
             patiently
             as
             they
             can
             ,
             without
             the
             least
             hope
             of
             Redress
             .
          
           
             The
             Cadi's
             are
             mere
             Beggars
             when
             they
             are
             first
             advanc'd
             to
             that
             gainfull
             Post
             ,
             and
             their
             Commission
             lasts
             but
             a
             Year
             :
             yet
             in
             less
             than
             three
             Months
             these
             tatter'd
             Scoundrels
             exchange
             their
             Rags
             for
             gawdy
             Habits
             ,
             and
             a
             magnificent
             Equipage
             ,
             and
             at
             the
             End
             of
             the
             Year
             are
             Masters
             of
             vast
             Estates
             .
             We
             exclaim
             against
             our
             Lawyers
             in
             France
             ,
             and
             will
             not
             suffer
             those
             who
             have
             spend
             20
             or
             30
             Years
             in
             a
             perpetual
             Hurry
             of
             Business
             ,
             to
             enjoy
             the
             Fruit
             of
             their
             Labours
             in
             Peace
             ,
             tho'
             the
             Fortunes
             they
             acquire
             are
             for
             the
             most
             part
             so
             small
             ,
             that
             they
             can
             hardly
             subsist
             without
             Employment
             .
             But
             I
             'm
             confident
             a
             little
             Acquaintance
             with
             the
             Customs
             of
             this
             Country
             wou'd
             quickly
             stop
             the
             Mouths
             of
             our
             Grumblers
             :
             for
             if
             the
             Cadi
             of
             a
             considerable
             City
             were
             permitted
             to
             hold
             his
             Office
             Ten
             Years
             ,
             he
             wou'd
             be
             richer
             than
             a
             
               President
               au
               Mortier
            
             .
             He
             that
             went
             last
             from
             Smyrna
             gain'd
             above
             40000
             Crowns
             ;
             and
             you
             may
             easily
             judge
             how
             miserably
             
             the
             Inhabitants
             were
             oppress'd
             by
             a
             Judge
             that
             cou'd
             in
             one
             Year
             heap
             up
             so
             great
             a
             Treasure
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             he
             durst
             not
             expect
             the
             Coming
             of
             his
             Successour
             ,
             but
             march'd
             off
             eight
             days
             before
             ,
             without
             staying
             to
             take
             leave
             of
             his
             Friends
             ,
             according
             to
             the
             prudent
             Custom
             of
             his
             Brother-Rogues
             .
             For
             they
             are
             oblig'd
             to
             give
             an
             Account
             of
             their
             Administration
             to
             the
             succeeding
             Cadi's
             ,
             who
             make
             a
             Report
             to
             the
             Grand
             Signior's
             Divan
             ,
             and
             even
             secure
             their
             Persons
             when
             the
             Comlaints
             against
             'em
             are
             very
             numerous
             and
             grievous
             .
             But
             they
             are
             too
             conscious
             of
             their
             Guilt
             ,
             to
             stand
             a
             Trial
             which
             they
             know
             wou'd
             infallibly
             ruine
             'em
             ;
             and
             therefore
             to
             avoid
             so
             terrible
             a
             Danger
             ,
             they
             go
             immediately
             to
             their
             Patron
             at
             the
             Port
             ,
             who
             receives
             his
             Share
             in
             the
             Booty
             ,
             and
             grants
             'em
             his
             Protection
             ,
             without
             which
             they
             wou'd
             be
             punish'd
             without
             Mercy
             .
             Yet
             some
             of
             'em
             chuse
             rather
             to
             buy
             their
             Peace
             of
             the
             new
             Cadi
             ,
             who
             ,
             for
             8
             or
             10
             Purses
             ,
             which
             amounts
             to
             12
             or
             15000
             Livres
             ,
             gives
             'em
             as
             favourable
             a
             Certificate
             as
             they
             can
             desire
             .
          
           
             All
             Civil
             Affairs
             are
             judg'd
             by
             the
             Cadi
             according
             to
             the
             Deposition
             of
             Witnesses
             ,
             without
             any
             regard
             to
             Writings
             .
             For
             suppose
             you
             had
             lent
             1000
             Piasters
             to
             a
             Man
             upon
             his
             Note
             or
             Bond
             ,
             if
             he
             can
             but
             suborn
             two
             Men
             to
             affirm
             that
             they
             saw
             him
             pay
             you
             such
             a
             Summ
             ,
             you
             must
             infallibly
             lose
             your
             Money
             .
             This
             Custom
             gives
             a
             fair
             Opportunity
             to
             Men
             of
             dishonest
             Principles
             to
             abuse
             their
             Creditors
             ;
             since
             they
             may
             easily
             find
             Witnesses
             to
             prove
             any
             thing
             ,
             and
             even
             without
             giving
             themselves
             the
             trouble
             to
             enquire
             after
             '
             em
             .
             One
             word
             ,
             or
             a
             Sign
             to
             the
             Cadi
             is
             sufficient
             ,
             who
             always
             keeps
             a
             Score
             of
             Knights
             of
             the
             Post
             ready
             to
             serve
             him
             or
             any
             of
             his
             Friends
             on
             such
             Occasions
             .
             After
             the
             two
             contending
             Parties
             have
             pleaded
             their
             own
             Cause
             as
             well
             as
             they
             can
             ,
             for
             there
             are
             no
             Barristers
             in
             Turkey
             ,
             one
             of
             'em
             clutches
             his
             right
             Fist
             ,
             and
             
             stretches
             out
             one
             ,
             two
             ,
             or
             three
             of
             his
             Fingers
             ,
             signifying
             ,
             that
             he
             intends
             to
             present
             the
             Cadi
             with
             a
             like
             number
             of
             Purses
             :
             Then
             his
             Adversary
             makes
             the
             same
             Sign
             ,
             and
             offers
             more
             or
             less
             ,
             as
             he
             thinks
             fit
             .
             At
             Night
             the
             Cadi
             sends
             for
             the
             highest
             Bidder
             ,
             and
             having
             receiv'd
             his
             Present
             ,
             requites
             his
             Compliment
             very
             civilly
             the
             next
             Day
             ,
             with
             a
             favourable
             Sentence
             ;
             after
             which
             he
             that
             is
             cast
             must
             either
             pay
             the
             Debt
             immediately
             ,
             or
             go
             to
             Prison
             .
             And
             (
             which
             is
             still
             more
             unjust
             )
             if
             you
             are
             not
             able
             to
             maintain
             him
             ,
             and
             pay
             the
             Fees
             of
             those
             who
             arrested
             him
             ,
             you
             must
             resign
             the
             third
             Part
             of
             your
             Debt
             ;
             in
             Consideration
             of
             which
             the
             poor
             Wretch
             is
             kept
             rotting
             in
             the
             Gaol
             ,
             till
             an
             exact
             Enquiry
             be
             made
             into
             his
             Estate
             .
             And
             if
             it
             be
             found
             that
             the
             Debt
             exceeds
             the
             Value
             of
             his
             Goods
             and
             Possessions
             ,
             the
             Payment
             is
             chang'd
             to
             a
             Corporal
             Punishment
             ,
             and
             he
             receives
             as
             many
             Bastinadoes
             on
             the
             Soals
             of
             his
             Feet
             as
             he
             owes
             Piast●rs
             ,
             unless
             the
             Summ
             exceed
             500
             ;
             for
             they
             stop
             there
             ,
             because
             the
             strongest
             Man
             cou'd
             not
             endure
             a
             greater
             number
             of
             Blows
             without
             manifest
             Danger
             of
             his
             Life
             .
          
           
             The
             Judgment
             of
             Criminal
             Affairs
             belongs
             to
             the
             Bassa
             ,
             who
             proceeds
             after
             the
             same
             manner
             :
             for
             Money
             clears
             the
             most
             barbarous
             Malefactor
             ,
             and
             without
             that
             ,
             Justice
             degenerates
             to
             Cruelty
             .
             The
             Stake
             and
             the
             Gibbet
             seem
             to
             be
             only
             made
             for
             
               poor
               Villains
            
             ;
             nor
             can
             there
             be
             a
             greater
             Sign
             of
             Poverty
             ,
             than
             when
             a
             Man
             is
             prosecuted
             for
             Murder
             or
             Robbery
             :
             for
             since
             the
             Bassa
             and
             Vaivode
             are
             always
             sure
             of
             40000
             Aspers
             ,
             the
             usual
             Price
             of
             Blood
             ,
             which
             they
             exact
             of
             those
             before
             whose
             Doors
             the
             Murder
             was
             committed
             ;
             they
             seldom
             or
             never
             take
             care
             to
             execute
             Justice
             on
             the
             Murderer
             .
             I
             have
             seen
             a
             Janisary
             ,
             who
             had
             kill'd
             above
             30
             Men
             ,
             walk
             thro'
             the
             Streets
             unmolested
             ,
             and
             with
             as
             much
             Confidence
             as
             the
             most
             innocent
             Person
             in
             Town
             .
             Nor
             are
             these
             corrupt
             Tribunals
             less
             favourable
             to
             the
             
             Robbers
             that
             infest
             the
             Country
             ,
             and
             commit
             such
             frequent
             Disorders
             ,
             that
             no
             wise
             Man
             will
             venture
             to
             travel
             one
             day's
             Journey
             without
             being
             compleatly
             arm'd
             ,
             and
             extremely
             well
             accompany'd
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             the
             
               Grand
               Signior
            
             from
             time
             to
             time
             sends
             superiour
             Bassa's
             ,
             attended
             with
             some
             Companies
             of
             Soldiers
             ,
             to
             search
             after
             unpunish'd
             Malefactors
             .
             'T
             is
             not
             above
             two
             Months
             since
             one
             of
             'em
             came
             to
             this
             City
             ,
             and
             put
             to
             Death
             about
             20
             Criminals
             :
             but
             after
             all
             ,
             these
             
               Great
               Inquisitors
            
             are
             only
             terrible
             to
             those
             who
             are
             unable
             to
             buy
             their
             Favour
             ,
             and
             even
             he
             whom
             I
             mention'd
             had
             above
             fifty
             Customers
             of
             this
             Sort.
             Among
             the
             rest
             I
             shall
             only
             take
             notice
             of
             one
             Instance
             of
             his
             mercenary
             Clemency
             ;
             and
             I
             hope
             I
             shall
             easily
             obtain
             your
             Pardon
             for
             a
             Digression
             which
             will
             not
             only
             divert
             you
             ,
             but
             give
             you
             a
             clearer
             Idea
             of
             the
             Genius
             of
             the
             Turkish
             Officers
             of
             Justice
             .
          
           
             A
             Man
             that
             us'd
             to
             work
             in
             a
             Dutch
             Merchant's
             Garden
             ,
             was
             seiz'd
             for
             a
             Murder
             ,
             which
             he
             had
             committed
             7
             or
             8
             Years
             before
             ,
             and
             finding
             himself
             to
             be
             in
             a
             very
             hopeless
             Condition
             ,
             sent
             to
             beg
             the
             Merchant's
             Assistance
             ,
             who
             was
             too
             generous
             to
             suffer
             one
             that
             had
             serv'd
             him
             to
             be
             hang'd
             for
             wan●
             of
             2
             or
             300
             Piasters
             .
             The
             poor
             Man
             relying
             upon
             his
             Master
             's
             promis'd
             Kindness
             ,
             began
             immediately
             to
             treat
             with
             the
             Bassa
             for
             his
             Ransom
             ,
             which
             at
             last
             was
             fix'd
             at
             100
             Turkish
             Pieces
             of
             Gold
             ,
             commonly
             call'd
             Scherifi
             ,
             worth
             2
             1
             /
             4
             Piasters
             each
             .
             The
             Bargain
             being
             thus
             concluded
             ,
             the
             Merchant
             gave
             the
             hundred
             Scherifi
             to
             the
             
               Bassa's
               Kiaia
            
             ,
             who
             deliver'd
             but
             ninety
             to
             the
             Treasurer
             ,
             having
             kept
             the
             other
             ten
             for
             himself
             .
             Now
             you
             must
             know
             that
             there
             are
             in
             Turkey
             a
             sort
             of
             Men
             who
             pretend
             to
             be
             
             Mahomet's
             Kinsmen
             ,
             and
             are
             highly
             reverenc'd
             by
             all
             Persons
             :
             They
             wear
             green
             Turbants
             ,
             and
             are
             call'd
             Scherifi
             ,
             which
             (
             you
             may
             remember
             I
             told
             you
             )
             is
             the
             Name
             of
             the
             
               Pieces
               of
               Gold.
            
             When
             the
             Trial
             came
             
             on
             ,
             after
             the
             Witnesses
             were
             examin'd
             ,
             the
             Bassa
             perceiving
             that
             there
             were
             Ten
             Pieces
             wanting
             of
             the
             promis'd
             Summ
             ,
             and
             imagining
             that
             Defect
             to
             be
             a
             design'd
             Breach
             of
             the
             Agreement
             ,
             seem'd
             to
             be
             very
             nice
             and
             inexorable
             ,
             and
             protested
             that
             he
             cou'd
             not
             acquit
             a
             Man
             who
             was
             positively
             charg'd
             with
             Murder
             by
             so
             many
             Witnesses
             .
             But
             the
             Secretary
             ,
             who
             by
             good
             Fortune
             was
             acquainted
             with
             the
             whole
             Transaction
             ,
             told
             him
             ,
             That
             
               tho'
               these
               Witnesses
               declar'd
               him
               Guilty
               ,
               there
               were
            
             100
             Scherifi
             
               arriv'd
               ,
               who
               asserted
               his
               Innocencey
               ,
               and
               that
               their
               Testimony
               was
               much
               more
               convincing
               .
               I
               thought
               ,
            
             said
             the
             
               Bassa
               ,
               I
               saw
               but
               90
               ;
               'T
               is
               true
               ,
            
             reply'd
             the
             
               Secretary
               ,
               but
               there
               were
            
             Ten
             
               more
               ,
               who
               by
               reason
               of
               their
               great
               Age
               ,
               could
               not
               come
               up
               to
               your
               Presence
               ,
               and
               therefore
               staid
               below
               with
               the
            
             Kiaia
             .
             The
             Bassa
             ,
             who
             was
             neither
             Deaf
             nor
             Dull
             ,
             understood
             the
             Meaning
             of
             those
             Expressions
             ,
             and
             declar'd
             the
             accus'd
             Person
             innocent
             .
          
           
             There
             are
             several
             sorts
             of
             Punishments
             inflicted
             on
             Malefactors
             in
             this
             Country
             ;
             such
             as
             
               Beheading
               ,
               Drowning
               ,
               Hanging
               ,
               Strangling
               ,
               Burning
               ,
               Impaling
               ,
            
             and
             the
             Strappado
             .
             The
             two
             last
             are
             the
             most
             Cruel
             ,
             and
             are
             appointed
             only
             for
             Turks
             that
             renounce
             the
             Mahometan
             Faith
             ,
             or
             Renegado's
             that
             return
             to
             the
             Profession
             of
             the
             Christian
             Religion
             ,
             or
             for
             those
             who
             are
             convicted
             of
             some
             very
             enormous
             Crimes
             .
             Robbers
             and
             Murderers
             are
             
               hang'd
               ,
               Women
            
             are
             drown'd
             ,
             those
             who
             are
             found
             guilty
             of
             Rebellion
             or
             Sedition
             are
             beheaded
             ,
             and
             Burning
             is
             the
             Punishment
             of
             Christians
             for
             blaspheming
             against
             Mahomet
             or
             the
             Alcoran
             ,
             or
             for
             lying
             with
             a
             Turkish
             Woman
             .
             Not
             long
             ago
             an
             English
             Merchant
             at
             Constantinople
             very
             narrowly
             escap'd
             Suffering
             for
             the
             last
             of
             these
             Crimes
             .
             He
             kept
             a
             fair
             Turk
             with
             all
             imaginable
             Secrecy
             ,
             and
             never
             saw
             her
             at
             his
             own
             House
             .
             To
             prevent
             Suspicion
             ,
             he
             procur'd
             a
             very
             pretty
             Yacht
             ,
             in
             which
             he
             went
             with
             her
             almost
             every
             day
             ,
             to
             take
             the
             Air
             
             on
             the
             Sea
             of
             Marmora
             ,
             or
             in
             the
             Canal
             of
             the
             
               Black
               Sea
            
             ,
             and
             usually
             staid
             abroad
             till
             Night
             .
             But
             at
             last
             the
             whole
             Intrigue
             was
             discover'd
             by
             the
             Indiscretion
             of
             a
             Servant
             ;
             and
             they
             were
             both
             apprehended
             by
             an
             Order
             from
             the
             
               Grand
               Visier
            
             ,
             who
             at
             first
             threaten'd
             to
             burn
             the
             Merchant
             ,
             but
             was
             afterwards
             prevail'd
             with
             to
             accept
             a
             Fine
             of
             10000
             Piasters
             ,
             which
             he
             paid
             upon
             the
             Spot
             .
             Several
             Travellers
             have
             particularly
             describ'd
             the
             Punishments
             call'd
             Impaling
             ,
             and
             the
             Strappado
             ,
             as
             well
             as
             the
             Manner
             of
             giving
             the
             Bastonnado
             ;
             and
             therefore
             I
             shall
             forbear
             troubling
             you
             with
             an
             Account
             of
             what
             I
             suppose
             you
             know
             already
             .
          
           
             The
             Government
             of
             the
             Cities
             is
             manag'd
             by
             Five
             Kinds
             of
             Officers
             ,
             the
             
               Bassa
               ,
               Sub-Bassa
               ,
               Vaivode
               ,
               Cadi
               ,
            
             and
             
               Receiver
               of
               the
               Customs
            
             .
             The
             Bassa
             is
             properly
             the
             Governor
             ,
             and
             judges
             criminal
             Causes
             ;
             and
             the
             Sub-Bassa
             is
             as
             it
             were
             his
             Deputy
             .
             The
             Vaivode
             takes
             care
             of
             regulating
             Affairs
             in
             the
             City
             ;
             he
             walks
             the
             Round
             twice
             a-week
             ,
             to
             examine
             the
             Weights
             and
             Measures
             ,
             to
             observe
             whether
             unlicens'd
             Tipling-Houses
             are
             kept
             ,
             to
             punish
             Drunken
             Persons
             ,
             and
             all
             those
             in
             the
             general
             who
             commit
             any
             Disorders
             in
             the
             City
             .
             Those
             who
             are
             found
             guilty
             of
             these
             or
             any
             other
             Abuses
             ,
             must
             immediately
             submit
             to
             the
             Bastonnado
             ,
             especially
             Drunkards
             ,
             who
             are
             always
             very
             roughly
             handl'd
             .
             The
             Function
             of
             the
             Sub-Bassa
             is
             not
             much
             different
             .
             The
             Cadi
             is
             the
             Judge
             of
             all
             Civil
             Suits
             ;
             and
             the
             
               Receiver
               of
               the
               Customs
            
             ,
             who
             in
             France
             is
             only
             a
             private
             Person
             without
             any
             Authority
             ,
             is
             in
             this
             Country
             empower'd
             to
             take
             Cognizance
             of
             all
             fraudulent
             Practices
             relating
             to
             Pecuniary
             Duties
             ,
             in
             all
             which
             Cases
             he
             is
             both
             Judge
             and
             Party
             .
          
           
             The
             Jealousie
             that
             reigns
             among
             these
             Officers
             is
             so
             furious
             and
             extravagant
             ,
             that
             they
             make
             it
             their
             principal
             Business
             to
             discredit
             and
             ruine
             one
             another
             .
             'T
             is
             a
             Pleasure
             to
             hear
             the
             Characters
             which
             they
             mutually
             give
             of
             each
             other
             ;
             and
             assoon
             as
             
             they
             are
             acquainted
             with
             a
             Man
             ,
             they
             begin
             to
             entertain
             him
             with
             a
             Harangue
             on
             that
             Subject
             .
             The
             Vaivode
             of
             this
             Place
             ,
             with
             whom
             I
             have
             contracted
             a
             sort
             of
             Friendship
             ,
             has
             told
             me
             a
             thousand
             Stories
             of
             the
             Bassa's
             and
             Cadi's
             ,
             which
             ,
             as
             diverting
             as
             they
             are
             ,
             I
             shall
             rather
             chuse
             to
             relate
             ,
             than
             to
             write
             to
             you
             :
             and
             therefore
             you
             must
             even
             content
             your self
             at
             present
             with
             one
             ,
             for
             a
             Taste
             of
             the
             pleasant
             Entertainment
             you
             may
             expect
             at
             our
             next
             Meeting
             .
          
           
             One
             who
             had
             as
             little
             Money
             as
             Honesty
             ,
             that
             is
             ,
             none
             at
             all
             ,
             was
             sent
             in
             the
             Quality
             of
             a
             Cadi
             ,
             to
             a
             certain
             Town
             ,
             where
             he
             hop'd
             the
             Wranglings
             of
             the
             Inhabitants
             wou'd
             quickly
             supply
             all
             his
             Wants
             .
             But
             ,
             as
             ill
             Luck
             wou'd
             have
             it
             ,
             his
             Predecessors
             had
             quite
             spoil'd
             his
             Market
             ;
             and
             Oppression
             ,
             which
             makes
             some
             wise
             Men
             mad
             ,
             had
             made
             these
             
               Fools
               ,
               wise
            
             .
             They
             heard
             he
             was
             a
             very
             hungry
             Devil
             ,
             and
             they
             resolv'd
             to
             starve
             him
             out-right
             ;
             wisely
             considering
             that
             't
             was
             both
             their
             Duty
             and
             Interest
             to
             live
             in
             Peace
             ,
             or
             at
             least
             to
             refer
             all
             their
             Differences
             to
             the
             Arbitration
             of
             honest
             Friends
             ,
             rather
             than
             by
             tearing
             out
             their
             own
             Bowels
             to
             feed
             their
             Greedy
             Devourer
             .
             And
             it
             seems
             they
             show'd
             as
             much
             Firmness
             in
             pursuing
             ,
             as
             Wisdom
             in
             making
             so
             advantageous
             a
             Resolution
             :
             for
             the
             Cadi
             spent
             six
             Weeks
             or
             two
             Months
             after
             his
             Arrival
             ,
             without
             any
             Employment
             but
             Fretting
             ,
             Cursing
             ,
             and
             biting
             his
             Thumbs
             out
             of
             meer
             Spite
             ,
             because
             he
             could
             find
             nothing
             else
             to
             exercise
             his
             Teeth
             upon
             .
             One
             day
             as
             he
             was
             walking
             in
             the
             Streets
             ,
             meditating
             no
             doubt
             on
             his
             wretched
             Fate
             ,
             he
             perceiv'd
             a
             Baker
             ,
             who
             was
             drawing
             a
             good
             Fat
             Goose
             out
             of
             his
             Oven
             ;
             and
             the
             savoury
             Vapours
             assaulting
             his
             Nose
             ,
             rais'd
             a
             furious
             Commotion
             in
             his
             empty
             Stomach
             :
             his
             Mouth
             water'd
             at
             the
             delicious
             Obj●ct
             ,
             and
             his
             Guts
             began
             to
             rumble
             with
             a
             more
             than
             ordinary
             Violence
             .
             In
             a
             Word
             ,
             he
             was
             so
             little
             Master
             of
             himself
             ,
             that
             he
             cou'd
             not
             forbear
             begging
             
             a
             Piece
             ;
             but
             the
             Baker
             told
             him
             that
             the
             Goose
             belong'd
             to
             one
             of
             his
             Neighbours
             ,
             who
             had
             sent
             it
             to
             him
             to
             be
             bak'd
             .
             Come
             ,
             reply'd
             the
             
               Cadi
               ,
               take
               my
               Advice
               :
               We
               'll
               eat
               the
               Goose
               ,
               and
               when
               the
               Man
               comes
               to
               fetch
               it
               ,
               tell
               him
               that
               as
               thou
               wert
               bringing
               it
               out
               to
               see
               whether
               't
               was
               ready
               ,
               a
               Flock
               of
               Geese
               happen'd
               to
               fly
               by
               the
               Door
               ,
               and
               that
               his
               Goose
               perceiving
               its
               old
               Companions
               ,
               wou'd
               not
               be
               persuaded
               to
               stay
               behind
               '
               em
               .
               If
               he
               will
               not
               be
               satisfy'd
               with
               so
               fair
               an
               Answer
               ,
               let
               him
               e'en
               take
               his
               Course
               ;
               for
               he
               must
               bring
               thee
               before
               me
               ,
               and
               I
               'll
               find
               a
               Way
               to
               save
               thee
               harmless
               .
            
             There
             was
             no
             need
             of
             more
             Arguments
             ,
             for
             the
             Baker's
             Stomach
             was
             on
             the
             
             Cadi's
             Side
             ,
             and
             his
             Conscience
             made
             no
             long
             Resistance
             :
             and
             therefore
             assoon
             as
             he
             had
             signify'd
             his
             Consent
             ,
             the
             Cadi
             began
             to
             bestir
             his
             Chaps
             so
             vigorously
             ,
             that
             by
             the
             Assistance
             of
             his
             Friend
             the
             Business
             was
             dispatch●d
             in
             an
             Instant
             .
             Two
             Hours
             after
             the
             Man
             came
             for
             his
             Goose
             ,
             and
             the
             Baker
             repeated
             his
             Lesson
             very
             gravely
             :
             but
             the
             Jest
             was
             somewhat
             too
             gross
             ,
             and
             the
             Man
             was
             so
             offended
             at
             the
             Baker●s
             Insolency
             ,
             that
             he
             took
             him
             immediately
             by
             the
             Neck
             ,
             and
             told
             him
             that
             he
             must
             either
             restore
             his
             Goose
             ,
             or
             go
             before
             the
             Cadi
             ;
             for
             there
             are
             no
             Sergeants
             or
             Bailiffs
             in
             this
             Country
             .
             These
             Threatnings
             made
             no
             great
             Impression
             upon
             the
             Baker
             ,
             since
             he
             knew
             that
             he
             was
             to
             be
             judg'd
             by
             his
             Fellow-Rogue
             ;
             so
             that
             he
             was
             as
             free
             from
             Fear
             ,
             as
             the
             other
             was
             full
             of
             Anger
             and
             Revenge
             and
             walk'd
             very
             peaceably
             along
             with
             his
             Accuser
             .
             But
             they
             had
             not
             gone
             far
             when
             they
             were
             stopp'd
             by
             the
             Lamentations
             of
             a
             poor
             Mule-Driver
             ,
             whose
             Mule
             was
             fall'n
             under
             her
             Load
             ,
             and
             lay
             sprawling
             on
             the
             Ground
             .
             The
             Baker
             was
             mov'd
             with
             Compassion
             at
             the
             poor
             Man's
             Misfortune
             ,
             who
             came
             to
             beg
             his
             Assistance
             ,
             and
             took
             hold
             of
             the
             Mule's
             Tail
             ,
             while
             the
             Man
             himself
             endeavour'd
             t●
             raise
             her
             Head
             :
             but
             the
             Load
             was
             so
             heavy
             ,
             tha●
             
             the
             Baker
             finding
             more
             Resistance
             than
             he
             expected
             ,
             and
             pulling
             with
             all
             the
             Force
             of
             a
             Brawny
             Arm
             ,
             at
             last
             pluck'd
             the
             Tail
             off
             at
             the
             Root
             .
             The
             Owner
             of
             the
             Mule
             was
             so
             enrag'd
             at
             this
             unlucky
             Accident
             ,
             which
             made
             him
             incapable
             of
             following
             his
             usual
             Occupation
             ,
             that
             not
             regarding
             the
             Baker's
             charitable
             Intention
             ,
             he
             seiz'd
             him
             by
             the
             Collar
             ,
             and
             help'd
             the
             other
             Man
             to
             hale
             him
             along
             ,
             for
             he
             was
             so
             far
             from
             going
             willingly
             as
             before
             ,
             that
             considering
             the
             Cadi
             was
             not
             at
             all
             concern'd
             in
             this
             Affair
             ,
             and
             not
             daring
             to
             rely
             too
             much
             on
             his
             Friendship
             ,
             lest
             he
             should
             be
             oblig'd
             to
             pay
             the
             Price
             of
             the
             Mule
             ,
             he
             made
             a
             shift
             to
             get
             loose
             ;
             and
             thinking
             to
             make
             his
             Lscape
             ,
             ran
             into
             a
             House
             not
             far
             from
             the
             place
             where
             he
             met
             the
             Mule-Driver
             .
             But
             ,
             as
             Mischances
             never
             come
             single
             ,
             it
             happen'd
             that
             there
             was
             a
             Woman
             six
             Months
             gone
             with
             Child
             ,
             standing
             in
             the
             Court
             of
             the
             House
             where
             he
             thought
             to
             secure
             himself
             ,
             who
             was
             so
             terrify'd
             at
             the
             sight
             of
             a
             Man
             running
             ,
             with
             two
             others
             pursuing
             him
             furiously
             at
             his
             Heels
             ,
             that
             she
             miscarry'd
             immediately
             .
             Thus
             the
             poor
             Baker
             had
             the
             Mortification
             to
             see
             the
             Number
             of
             his
             Enemies
             encreas'd
             ;
             for
             the
             Woman's
             Husband
             join'd
             with
             the
             other
             Two
             ,
             and
             all
             together
             carry'd
             him
             before
             the
             Cadi
             ,
             whom
             they
             acquainted
             with
             the
             Reason
             of
             their
             Coming
             ,
             expressing
             their
             several
             Complaints
             in
             a
             very
             mournful
             Tone
             ,
             to
             move
             their
             Judge
             to
             Compassion
             .
          
           
             I
             'm
             a
             very
             poor
             Man
             ,
             
               said
               he
               who
               had
               receiv'd
               the
               first
               Injury
               ,
            
             and
             all
             the
             Town
             knows
             that
             I
             had
             but
             one
             Goose
             ,
             which
             I
             intended
             to
             eat
             with
             my
             Wife
             and
             Children
             ,
             in
             Peace
             and
             Joy
             ,
             as
             I
             hope
             for
             the
             Blessing
             of
             the
             Prophet
             .
             But
             alas
             !
             this
             wicked
             Man
             has
             stoll'n
             her
             from
             me
             ,
             and
             wou'd
             put
             me
             off
             with
             a
             ridiculous
             Story
             :
             he
             has
             the
             Impudence
             to
             tell
             me
             that
             ●y
             Goose
             after
             she
             was
             bak'd
             ,
             spy'd
             a
             Flock
             of
             other
             Geese
             ,
             and
             flew
             away
             with
             '
             em
             .
          
           
           
             I
             had
             but
             one
             Mule
             ,
             
               cry'd
               the
               Second
            
             ,
             which
             maintain'd
             me
             and
             all
             my
             Family
             ;
             I
             had
             but
             one
             ,
             and
             now
             ,
             alas
             !
             I
             may
             say
             I
             have
             none
             :
             for
             the
             poor
             Creature
             had
             the
             Misfortune
             to
             fall
             under
             her
             Burden
             ,
             and
             this
             Man
             happen'd
             to
             pass
             by
             as
             I
             was
             endeavouring
             in
             vain
             to
             relieve
             her
             .
             I
             intreated
             him
             to
             help
             me
             ,
             but
             instead
             of
             raising
             her
             up
             ,
             he
             pluck'd
             off
             her
             Tail.
             
          
           
             Ah!
             Wou'd
             I
             had
             no
             more
             Reason
             to
             complain
             than
             either
             of
             the
             rest
             ,
             
               said
               the
               Third
            
             .
             I
             have
             but
             one
             Wife
             ,
             and
             that
             a
             very
             bad
             one
             .
             We
             have
             been
             marry'd
             these
             three
             Years
             ,
             and
             I
             have
             toil●d
             Night
             and
             Day
             to
             get
             her
             with
             Child
             :
             At
             last
             ,
             by
             the
             Blessing
             of
             the
             Prophet
             I
             did
             the
             Feat
             ,
             and
             in
             a
             little
             time
             expected
             to
             see
             the
             Fruit
             of
             my
             Labours
             .
             But
             that
             Traitour
             has
             this
             Day
             destroy'd
             what
             I
             cou'd
             hardly
             get
             in
             three
             Years
             :
             he
             put
             my
             Wife
             into
             such
             a
             Fright
             ,
             that
             she
             miscarry'd
             three
             Months
             before
             the
             Time.
             
          
           
             Judge
             ,
             Sir
             ,
             with
             what
             Impatience
             and
             Fear
             the
             Baker
             expected
             his
             Doom
             ,
             and
             how
             the
             Cadi
             was
             puzzl'd
             to
             bring
             him
             off
             in
             Spite
             of
             so
             many
             clamorous
             Accusers
             .
             Yet
             the
             Difficulty
             of
             the
             Case
             serv'd
             only
             to
             show
             the
             Dexterity
             of
             the
             Judge
             ,
             as
             you
             will
             easily
             perceive
             by
             his
             Answers
             to
             the
             Three
             Plaintiffs
             .
          
           
             I
             cannot
             ,
             
               said
               he
               to
               the
               First
            
             ,
             oblige
             a
             Man
             to
             restore
             a
             Goose
             ,
             which
             ,
             he
             affirms
             ,
             flew
             out
             of
             his
             hands
             .
             I
             confess
             the
             Story
             is
             very
             surprizing
             and
             improbable
             ,
             but
             we
             must
             always
             give
             credit
             to
             an
             honest
             Man's
             Word
             :
             And
             therefore
             since
             thou
             canst
             produce
             no
             Witnesses
             to
             disprove
             it
             ,
             thou
             must
             e'en
             resolve
             to
             bear
             thy
             Mifortune
             patiently
             .
          
           
             As
             for
             thee
             ,
             
               said
               he
               to
               the
               Second
            
             ,
             't
             is
             another
             Case
             :
             He
             has
             pluck'd
             off
             thy
             Mule's
             Tail
             ,
             and
             made
             her
             unfit
             for
             Service
             .
             And
             therefore
             't
             is
             just
             that
             be
             shou'd
             be
             oblig'd
             to
             keep
             her
             at
             his
             own
             Charge
             till
             her
             Rump
             be
             heal'd
             .
          
           
             But
             thou
             ,
             poor
             Man
             ,
             
               said
               he
               ,
               turning
               to
               the
               Third
               ▪
            
             art
             more
             to
             be
             pity'd
             than
             either
             of
             the
             rest
             .
             Thou
             
             say'st
             (
             and
             I
             believe
             thee
             )
             that
             it
             cost
             thee
             three
             Years
             Labour
             to
             get
             a
             Child
             :
             and
             after
             all
             thy
             Toil
             ,
             this
             Man
             by
             an
             unlucky
             Accident
             has
             made
             thy
             Wife
             cast
             her
             Bantling
             three
             Months
             before
             the
             Time.
             I
             condemn
             the
             Rogue
             to
             take
             her
             home
             with
             him
             ,
             to
             ●ill
             her
             Belly
             again
             ,
             and
             to
             keep
             her
             till
             she
             be
             in
             the
             same
             Condition
             ,
             and
             the
             Child
             as
             old
             as
             when
             he
             made
             her
             miscarry
             .
          
           
             I
             will
             not
             ask
             your
             Opinion
             of
             this
             Story
             ,
             till
             you
             have
             heard
             both
             Parties
             :
             for
             the
             Cadi
             thinks
             himself
             as
             honest
             a
             Man
             ,
             and
             as
             worthy
             of
             your
             Audience
             as
             the
             Vaivode
             ;
             and
             therefore
             you
             must
             e'en
             be
             satisfy'd
             to
             hear
             his
             Tale
             next
             .
          
           
             A
             very
             Rich
             Man
             dy'd
             ,
             and
             left
             his
             Son
             Heir
             to
             his
             whole
             Estate
             ,
             except
             1000
             Piasters
             ,
             which
             he
             bequeath'd
             to
             the
             
               Tyrant
               of
               the
               Country
            
             .
             Now
             you
             must
             know
             that
             the
             Turks
             are
             very
             religious
             Observers
             of
             the
             Last-Wills
             of
             their
             Relations
             :
             and
             this
             Young
             Man
             it
             seems
             was
             very
             nice
             in
             that
             Point
             .
             His
             Ignorance
             of
             his
             Father's
             Meaning
             made
             him
             extremely
             uneasie
             ;
             for
             he
             concluded
             that
             if
             he
             shou'd
             detain
             another
             Man's
             Right
             ,
             against
             his
             Father's
             positive
             Command
             ,
             't
             wou'd
             certainly
             bring
             the
             Curse
             of
             the
             Prophet
             upon
             him
             .
             After
             he
             had
             spent
             some
             time
             in
             considering
             where
             to
             bestow
             the
             Legacy
             ,
             he
             resolv'd
             to
             carry
             it
             to
             the
             Bassa
             ,
             whom
             he
             address'd
             thus
             :
             
               Sir
               ,
               My
               Father
               order'd
               me
               by
               his
               Last-Will
               ,
               to
               give
            
             1000
             
               Piasters
               to
               the
               Tyrant
               of
               the
               Country
               ,
               without
               mentioning
               the
               Name
               of
               any
               particular
               Person
               .
               I
               was
               extremely
               troubl'd
               at
               the
               Obscurity
               of
               these
               Words
               ,
               and
               not
               being
               able
               to
               unriddle
               the
               Mystery
               ,
               I
               thought
               my self
               oblig'd
               to
               bring
               the
               Money
               to
               you
               not
               as
               to
               a
               Tyrant
               ,
               but
               as
               to
               the
               most
               powerful
               Person
               in
               the
               Country
               .
            
             The
             Bassa
             ,
             who
             by
             chance
             was
             an
             honest
             Man
             ,
             reply'd
             very
             calmly
             ,
             
               My
               Son
               ,
               I
               neither
               am
               ,
               nor
               will
               be
               a
               Tyrant
               ,
               carry
               the
               Money
               to
               the
            
             Cadi
             ,
             
               for
               he
               has
               more
               Right
               to
               it
               than
               I.
            
             The
             Young
             Man
             perceiving
             that
             't
             wou'd
             be
             in
             vain
             to
             urge
             him
             to
             accept
             it
             ,
             went
             according
             to
             his
             Advice
             ,
             and
             
             made
             the
             same
             Complement
             to
             the
             Cadi
             ,
             whom
             he
             found
             to
             be
             as
             generous
             as
             the
             Bassa
             ;
             for
             he
             told
             him
             he
             cou'd
             not
             take
             it
             without
             injuring
             the
             Person
             for
             whom
             it
             was
             design'd
             ,
             and
             desir'd
             him
             to
             carry
             it
             to
             the
             
               Receiver
               of
               the
               Customs
            
             .
             But
             that
             Officer
             was
             as
             jealous
             of
             his
             Honour
             as
             either
             of
             the
             rest
             ,
             and
             sent
             the
             young
             Heir
             to
             the
             Vaivode
             ,
             who
             hearing
             that
             he
             had
             been
             with
             the
             other
             three
             ,
             and
             what
             Answers
             he
             had
             receiv'd
             from
             'em
             ,
             told
             him
             that
             as
             his
             Conscience
             oblig'd
             him
             to
             ease
             a
             Neighbour
             of
             a
             Burthen
             that
             seem'd
             to
             be
             so
             troublesome
             to
             him
             ,
             so
             it
             wou'd
             not
             permit
             him
             to
             receive
             it
             absolutely
             
               gratis
               .
               Let
               us
            
             ,
             added
             he
             ,
             
               make
               a
               feign'd
               Bargain
               ;
               you
               shall
               buy
               all
               the
               Snow
               in
               my
               Court
               for
            
             1000
             Piasters
             ,
             
               and
               then
               I
               can
               take
               the
               Money
               with
               a
               safe
               Conscience
               .
            
             The
             Young
             Man
             ,
             who
             had
             been
             bandy'd
             about
             so
             often
             ,
             and
             was
             glad
             to
             be
             rid
             of
             the
             Money
             on
             any
             Terms
             ,
             consented
             immediately
             to
             the
             Proposal
             .
             As
             soon
             as
             the
             Bargain
             was
             concluded
             ,
             and
             the
             Deed
             of
             Conveyance
             written
             ,
             the
             
             Vaivode's
             Secretary
             demanded
             his
             Fees
             ;
             for
             in
             this
             Country
             the
             Purchaser
             must
             always
             pay
             for
             the
             Contract
             .
             The
             Young
             Man
             was
             both
             vex'd
             and
             surpriz'd
             at
             the
             Impudence
             of
             these
             Blood-suckers
             ,
             and
             upbraided
             'em
             with
             their
             Injustice
             and
             Barbarity
             ;
             adding
             ,
             That
             he
             did
             not
             expect
             to
             be
             troubl'd
             with
             their
             litigious
             Tricks
             after
             he
             had
             freely
             presented
             'em
             with
             so
             considerable
             a
             Summ
             :
             But
             neither
             his
             Anger
             nor
             Arguments
             cou'd
             prevail
             ,
             for
             he
             was
             forc'd
             at
             last
             to
             give
             the
             Secretary
             
               Ten
               Piasters
            
             more
             ;
             after
             which
             he
             went
             home
             with
             a
             Resolution
             to
             return
             no
             more
             to
             a
             place
             where
             he
             had
             been
             so
             ill
             treated
             .
             But
             three
             Days
             after
             the
             Vaivode
             sent
             to
             acquaint
             him
             that
             't
             was
             time
             for
             him
             to
             remove
             his
             Commodity
             .
             The
             Young
             Man
             imagining
             that
             they
             intended
             only
             to
             put
             a
             Jest
             upon
             him
             for
             his
             foolish
             Bargain
             ,
             bid
             the
             Messenger
             tell
             his
             Master
             ,
             that
             he
             might
             keep
             both
             
             the
             Goods
             and
             the
             Money
             .
             But
             he
             was
             quickly
             convinc'd
             ,
             that
             he
             had
             bestow'd
             the
             Legacy
             on
             the
             Man
             who
             had
             the
             best
             right
             to
             it
             :
             For
             the
             Vaivode
             forc'd
             him
             to
             remove
             all
             the
             Snow
             that
             was
             in
             his
             Court.
             
          
           
             I
             know
             not
             whether
             you
             can
             read
             these
             Stories
             without
             Sleeping
             :
             But
             I
             durst
             almost
             lay
             a
             Wager
             ,
             that
             if
             I
             shou'd
             add
             a
             Third
             ,
             you
             wou'd
             throw
             away
             my
             Letter
             without
             staying
             to
             hear
             that
          
           
             I
             am
             ,
             
               SIR
               ,
            
             
               Your
               &c.
               
            
             
               Smyrna
               ,
               
                 1691.
                 
              
            
          
        
         
           
             LETTER
             XX.
             
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
          
           
             IN
             pursuance
             of
             the
             Method
             I
             propos'd
             in
             my
             last
             ,
             I
             shall
             in
             this
             Letter
             give
             you
             a
             brief
             Account
             of
             the
             
               Turkish
               Religion
            
             ,
             which
             ,
             in
             the
             Opinion
             of
             those
             who
             profess
             it
             ,
             is
             a
             
               New
               Law
            
             ,
             Instituted
             by
             GOD
             ,
             in
             the
             room
             of
             the
             
               Christian
               Religion
            
             .
          
           
             GOD
             ,
             they
             say
             ,
             has
             sent
             
               Four
               Prophets
            
             to
             reveal
             his
             Will
             to
             Mankind
             ,
             and
             instruct
             us
             in
             the
             way
             to
             Salvation
             .
             The
             first
             was
             Enoch
             ,
             who
             Preach'd
             and
             Propheci'd
             ,
             but
             did
             not
             commit
             his
             Doctrine
             to
             Writing
             .
             For
             ,
             in
             those
             Days
             ,
             GOD
             communicated
             Himself
             to
             Mankind
             in
             so
             sensible
             a
             manner
             ,
             that
             there
             was
             no
             need
             of
             a
             Written-Law
             .
             After
             this
             Prophet
             had
             executed
             his
             Commission
             ,
             he
             was
             taken
             up
             into
             Heaven
             ,
             both
             Soul
             and
             Body
             .
             In
             
             the
             mean
             time
             ,
             GOD
             seeing
             that
             Men
             perverted
             their
             Ways
             ,
             and
             made
             the
             want
             of
             a
             Written-Law
             ,
             a
             Cloak
             and
             Pretext
             for
             their
             Transgressions
             ,
             sent
             Moses
             ,
             who
             brought
             the
             Children
             of
             Israel
             out
             of
             Egypt
             ,
             and
             gave
             'em
             the
             Law
             which
             he
             had
             receiv'd
             from
             GOD.
             This
             was
             the
             second
             Prophet
             ,
             whose
             Dispensation
             was
             to
             continue
             till
             the
             coming
             of
             
               JESUS
               CHRIST
            
             ,
             whom
             they
             call
             the
             
               Breath
               of
               God
            
             ,
             acknowledging
             ,
             that
             he
             was
             Conceiv'd
             by
             Divine
             Operation
             ,
             in
             the
             Womb
             of
             his
             Mother
             ,
             who
             remain'd
             a
             Virgin
             ,
             even
             after
             his
             Birth
             .
             He
             alter'd
             and
             reform'd
             the
             Law
             ,
             according
             to
             the
             Power
             with
             which
             God
             had
             entrusted
             him
             ,
             and
             for
             that
             reason
             incurr'd
             the
             hatred
             of
             the
             Jews
             ,
             who
             sought
             to
             put
             him
             to
             Death
             ,
             and
             hir'd
             the
             Traytor
             Judas
             to
             betray
             him
             .
             But
             when
             he
             came
             to
             the
             Oliv●-Garden
             ,
             they
             were
             seiz'd
             with
             so
             strange
             an
             Illusion
             ,
             that
             they
             Crucifi'd
             Judas
             instead
             of
             his
             Master
             ,
             who
             was
             ,
             in
             the
             mean
             time
             ,
             translated
             to
             Heaven
             ,
             where
             he
             remains
             with
             the
             two
             former
             Prophets
             .
             They
             say
             ,
             this
             Opinion
             serves
             much
             better
             to
             display
             the
             Glory
             of
             CHRIST
             ,
             than
             the
             
               Christian
               Doctrine
            
             ;
             and
             brand
             us
             with
             Folly
             and
             Impiety
             for
             believing
             that
             He
             whom
             we
             adore
             as
             God
             ,
             was
             shamefully
             Crucify'd
             .
             The
             very
             sight
             of
             a
             Crucifix
             fills
             'em
             with
             Anger
             and
             Rage
             ,
             pretending
             that
             't
             is
             a
             horrid
             Injury
             to
             CHRIST
             ,
             to
             represent
             him
             in
             a
             State
             of
             Ignominy
             and
             Suffering
             .
             They
             believe
             also
             that
             He
             will
             come
             to
             judge
             the
             World
             at
             the
             last
             Day
             ;
             but
             that
             He
             will
             first
             Reign
             upon
             the
             Earth
             ,
             and
             Marry
             ,
             and
             beget
             Children
             .
             They
             affirm
             ,
             that
             He
             was
             a
             Holy
             Man
             ,
             and
             a
             chosen
             Vessel
             ;
             but
             they
             will
             not
             be
             perswaded
             to
             acknowledge
             a
             Trinity
             of
             Persons
             in
             the
             Godhead
             ,
             saying
             ,
             That
             such
             an
             Opinion
             wou'd
             absolutely
             destroy
             the
             Unity
             of
             that
             Sovereign
             Being
             ,
             without
             which
             He
             cou'd
             not
             be
             GOD.
             
          
           
           
             CHRIST
             was
             succeeded
             by
             Mahomet
             ,
             after
             whom
             there
             shall
             come
             no
             other
             Prophet
             .
             '
             Twou'd
             be
             an
             endless
             Task
             to
             reckon
             up
             all
             the
             Glorious
             Titles
             they
             bestow
             upon
             him
             .
          
           
             They
             differ
             not
             much
             from
             us
             in
             their
             Opinions
             concerning
             the
             
               Divine
               Attributes
            
             .
             Only
             they
             have
             such
             a
             peculiar
             Fondness
             for
             Predestination
             ,
             that
             they
             extend
             it
             even
             to
             the
             most
             Indifferent
             Actions
             ,
             yet
             with
             some
             Limitations
             and
             Circumstances
             which
             't
             wou'd
             be
             very
             difficult
             to
             explain
             ,
             and
             which
             they
             themselves
             do
             not
             well
             understand
             .
             Thus
             they
             are
             firmly
             perswaded
             ,
             that
             under
             the
             Reign
             of
             such
             an
             Emperor
             ,
             the
             State
             will
             infallibly
             and
             perpetually
             have
             either
             a
             disast'rous
             or
             happy
             Fate
             :
             And
             't
             is
             this
             Persuasion
             that
             makes
             'em
             so
             inclinable
             to
             dethrone
             their
             Sultans
             .
          
           
             They
             believe
             ,
             that
             there
             is
             an
             infinite
             number
             of
             Angels
             ,
             some
             Good
             and
             others
             Bad.
             The
             first
             are
             call'd
             White
             ,
             and
             the
             others
             Black
             Angels
             or
             Devils
             .
             They
             imagine
             that
             every
             Man
             has
             two
             Angels
             that
             attend
             him
             continually
             ,
             and
             that
             one
             of
             'em
             writes
             down
             all
             his
             Good
             ,
             and
             the
             other
             all
             his
             Bad
             Actions
             .
             They
             address
             their
             Prayers
             to
             the
             Black
             Angels
             as
             well
             as
             to
             the
             White
             ,
             that
             they
             may
             secure
             the
             Friendship
             both
             of
             the
             Inhabitants
             of
             Paradice
             and
             Hell
             ,
             tho'
             ,
             in
             their
             Opinion
             ,
             the
             Souls
             of
             the
             Damn'd
             enter
             not
             into
             the
             last
             of
             these
             Places
             till
             the
             Day
             of
             Judgment
             .
             For
             't
             is
             an
             Article
             of
             the
             
               Turkish
               Faith
            
             ,
             that
             the
             Spirits
             of
             the
             Wicked
             remain
             in
             their
             Graves
             ,
             where
             they
             are
             tormented
             by
             the
             
               Black
               Angels
            
             till
             the
             last
             Day
             ,
             when
             they
             shall
             be
             sent
             to
             Hell
             ,
             together
             with
             their
             Bodies
             ,
             and
             suffer
             very
             cruel
             Punishments
             ,
             for
             the
             space
             of
             One
             or
             Two
             Thousand
             Years
             ,
             according
             to
             the
             Crimes
             they
             committed
             in
             this
             Life
             ;
             after
             which
             they
             shall
             be
             releas'd
             ,
             and
             admitted
             into
             Paradice
             ,
             where
             they
             shall
             enjoy
             the
             same
             Happiness
             that
             is
             appointed
             for
             the
             Souls
             of
             Good
             Men.
             They
             think
             't
             is
             
             inconsistent
             with
             the
             Divine
             Goodness
             ,
             and
             blame
             us
             for
             believing
             that
             GOD
             will
             punish
             a
             Man
             Eternally
             for
             the
             Offences
             of
             so
             short
             a
             Life
             :
             Yet
             ,
             since
             they
             are
             extremely
             afraid
             of
             Hell
             ,
             they
             pray
             very
             devoutly
             to
             the
             
               Black
               Angels
            
             that
             they
             wou'd
             be
             pleas'd
             not
             to
             write
             down
             all
             their
             Ill
             Actions
             .
          
           
             Since
             you
             will
             doubtless
             look
             upon
             their
             Opinion
             ,
             of
             the
             Soul
             's
             resting
             in
             the
             Grave
             after
             Death
             ,
             to
             be
             very
             Absurd
             and
             Ridiculous
             ,
             I
             shall
             endeavour
             to
             give
             you
             a
             clearer
             Idea
             of
             their
             Thoughts
             on
             that
             Subject
             .
          
           
             They
             differ
             from
             us
             in
             the
             account
             they
             give
             of
             the
             manner
             how
             the
             Soul
             Informs
             and
             Animates
             the
             Body
             .
             For
             whereas
             we
             believe
             ,
             that
             these
             two
             Substances
             are
             Hypostatically
             united
             ,
             and
             that
             Death
             consists
             in
             their
             Separation
             ;
             they
             imagine
             that
             the
             Soul
             and
             Body
             have
             no
             dependance
             on
             one
             another
             ,
             and
             that
             the
             absence
             of
             the
             Spirit
             (
             which
             ,
             for
             Example
             ,
             may
             take
             a
             Journey
             to
             Paradice
             )
             is
             not
             necessarily
             attended
             with
             the
             Destruction
             of
             the
             Corporeal
             Machine
             ;
             tho'
             they
             acknowledge
             that
             the
             Body
             is
             always
             depriv'd
             of
             Reason
             ,
             during
             its
             Separation
             from
             the
             Soul.
             Thus
             they
             believe
             ,
             that
             the
             only
             reason
             why
             a
             Fool
             or
             Ideot
             acts
             and
             speaks
             absurdly
             ,
             is
             because
             his
             Soul
             (
             and
             consequently
             his
             Reason
             )
             has
             forsaken
             him
             .
             As
             for
             Lunatic
             and
             Hypochondriacal
             Persons
             ,
             who
             have
             some
             lucid
             Intervals
             ,
             and
             are
             only
             depriv'd
             of
             their
             Reason
             by
             Fits
             ,
             they
             endeavour
             to
             solve
             the
             Difficulty
             ,
             by
             maintaining
             ,
             that
             the
             Soul
             leaves
             her
             Mansion
             at
             certain
             times
             ,
             and
             returns
             again
             after
             a
             short
             Absence
             :
             And
             this
             ,
             they
             say
             ,
             is
             an
             effect
             of
             Providence
             ,
             either
             for
             the
             Punishment
             of
             the
             Distemper'd
             Person
             ,
             or
             for
             some
             other
             hidden
             Design
             .
             When
             a
             Christian
             tells
             'em
             ,
             that
             these
             Fits
             of
             Madness
             proceed
             from
             the
             Disorder
             and
             Indisposition
             of
             the
             Organs
             ,
             which
             hinders
             the
             Soul
             from
             performing
             
             her
             Functions
             ,
             they
             upbraid
             him
             with
             the
             absurdity
             of
             his
             Opinion
             ;
             for
             ,
             say
             they
             ,
             the
             Soul
             of
             Man
             is
             a
             Spirit
             ,
             and
             therefore
             cannot
             be
             stopt
             or
             obstructed
             in
             the
             exercise
             of
             her
             Faculties
             by
             Matter
             ,
             which
             is
             a
             Substance
             of
             another
             ,
             and
             absolutely
             different
             Nature
             .
             From
             this
             Principle
             they
             infer
             ,
             that
             neither
             the
             Presence
             nor
             Absence
             of
             the
             Soul
             can
             produce
             any
             alteration
             in
             the
             Machinal
             course
             of
             the
             Body
             ,
             which
             is
             only
             mov'd
             by
             Springs
             :
             And
             that
             when
             one
             of
             the
             principal
             Springs
             fails
             ,
             or
             is
             spoil'd
             ,
             the
             Soul
             cannot
             prevent
             the
             Ruine
             of
             the
             whole
             Engine
             .
             This
             ,
             they
             pretend
             ,
             is
             an
             obvious
             Truth
             ,
             and
             confirm'd
             by
             daily
             Experience
             :
             And
             therefore
             we
             must
             not
             be
             surpriz'd
             ,
             that
             a
             dead
             Body
             neither
             Walks
             ,
             Breathes
             ,
             nor
             performs
             any
             Operation
             ,
             tho'
             the
             Soul
             be
             still
             lodg'd
             in
             it
             :
             For
             since
             she
             is
             not
             the
             Author
             of
             the
             Machine
             which
             she
             Inhabits
             ,
             't
             is
             beyond
             her
             Power
             either
             to
             keep
             it
             entire
             ,
             or
             to
             repair
             it
             after
             it
             falls
             to
             decay
             .
             GOD
             alone
             ,
             who
             made
             and
             contriv'd
             it
             ,
             can
             restore
             it
             ,
             and
             renew
             its
             motion
             ,
             as
             he
             will
             do
             at
             the
             last
             Day
             .
             To
             confirm
             this
             Hypothesis
             ,
             they
             cite
             ,
             with
             a
             great
             deal
             of
             Confidence
             ,
             what
             Pliny
             relates
             of
             a
             Man
             whose
             Soul
             and
             Body
             were
             wont
             to
             be
             separated
             every
             day
             ,
             so
             that
             the
             Body
             remain'd
             without
             any
             appearance
             of
             Life
             or
             Motion
             ,
             till
             the
             return
             of
             the
             Soul
             ,
             which
             afterwards
             us'd
             to
             give
             an
             Account
             of
             all
             the
             wonderful
             things
             she
             had
             seen
             in
             the
             remotest
             Countries
             .
             This
             ,
             you
             know
             ,
             is
             one
             of
             that
             Author
             's
             fabulous
             Stories
             ,
             and
             yet
             the
             Turks
             pretend
             to
             draw
             from
             thence
             an
             evident
             and
             irrefutable
             Proof
             of
             their
             Opinion
             .
             Besides
             ,
             they
             give
             the
             Soul
             a
             Figure
             exactly
             like
             that
             of
             the
             Body
             ,
             and
             upon
             this
             Principle
             maintain
             ,
             that
             the
             Souls
             of
             the
             Damned
             are
             beaten
             in
             the
             Grave
             ,
             and
             suffer
             Torments
             ,
             which
             a
             pure
             Spirit
             seems
             incapable
             of
             feeling
             .
             They
             believe
             also
             ,
             that
             the
             Beasts
             shall
             not
             be
             depriv'd
             of
             the
             benefit
             of
             
             the
             Resurrection
             ,
             and
             that
             at
             the
             Day
             of
             Judgment
             they
             will
             give
             an
             Account
             before
             CHRIST
             ,
             of
             all
             the
             Kindnesses
             and
             Injuries
             they
             have
             receiv'd
             from
             Men.
             And
             this
             Conceit
             makes
             'em
             so
             charitable
             to
             Irrational
             Creatures
             ,
             that
             some
             of
             'em
             buy
             little
             Birds
             and
             live
             Fishes
             ,
             that
             they
             may
             afterwards
             set
             'em
             at
             liberty
             .
          
           
             They
             fansie
             themselves
             polluted
             by
             several
             Things
             ,
             such
             as
             Sleeping
             ,
             the
             touching
             of
             a
             Woman
             ,
             and
             of
             all
             sorts
             of
             Excrements
             ;
             and
             therefore
             after
             any
             such
             Accident
             ,
             they
             perform
             their
             Ablution
             or
             Abdest
             ,
             washing
             their
             Face
             ,
             Hands
             ,
             Ears
             ,
             and
             Feet
             ,
             and
             looking
             towards
             Mecca
             .
             In
             the
             Day
             they
             content
             themselves
             with
             washing
             their
             Mouth
             ,
             which
             they
             repeat
             as
             often
             as
             they
             have
             occasion
             to
             obey
             the
             necessities
             of
             Nature
             :
             But
             after
             Copulation
             their
             Ablutions
             are
             much
             more
             Ceremonious
             ,
             for
             they
             wash
             their
             whole
             Body
             in
             a
             Bath
             ,
             as
             they
             do
             also
             when
             a
             drop
             of
             Wine
             falls
             upon
             their
             Garments
             .
             I
             have
             seen
             some
             of
             'em
             so
             extreamly
             Superstitious
             ,
             that
             they
             wou'd
             never
             afterwards
             wear
             a
             Vest
             that
             was
             pulluted
             with
             Wine
             ;
             tho'
             there
             are
             others
             of
             less
             scrupulous
             Tempers
             who
             never
             refuse
             to
             taste
             that
             spirituous
             Liquor
             ,
             and
             even
             some
             that
             continue
             Tipling
             till
             they
             have
             quite
             lost
             their
             Senses
             .
          
           
             They
             Pray
             five
             times
             a
             Day
             ,
             in
             the
             Morning
             at
             the
             break
             of
             Day
             ,
             at
             Noon
             ,
             at
             Three
             a
             Clock
             in
             the
             Afternoon
             ,
             at
             Six
             in
             the
             Evening
             ,
             and
             an
             hour
             after
             the
             close
             of
             the
             Evening
             .
             But
             they
             go
             only
             twice
             to
             the
             Mosquee
             ,
             to
             the
             Sabah
             in
             the
             Morning
             ,
             and
             to
             the
             Quindy
             at
             Three
             in
             the
             Afternoon
             :
             And
             even
             many
             of
             'em
             perform
             their
             public
             Devotions
             only
             on
             Friday
             ,
             which
             is
             their
             Festival-Day
             ,
             as
             Sunday
             is
             ours
             .
             On
             that
             day
             an
             Iman
             ,
             or
             Priest
             of
             the
             Law
             ,
             says
             a
             Prayer
             ,
             and
             delivers
             a
             kind
             of
             Sermon
             or
             Exhortation
             to
             the
             Hearers
             :
             But
             the
             Men
             are
             too
             jealous
             to
             suffer
             any
             of
             the
             Fair
             Sex
             to
             come
             to
             the
             Public
             Places
             of
             Worship
             .
          
           
           
             The
             
               Turkish
               Lent
            
             is
             shorter
             ,
             but
             much
             more
             severe
             than
             that
             which
             the
             Catholicks
             observe
             ;
             for
             they
             neither
             Eat
             ,
             Drink
             ,
             nor
             Smoak
             Tobacco
             while
             the
             Day
             lasts
             ;
             so
             that
             this
             may
             be
             justly
             reckon'd
             a
             very
             mortifying
             Season
             ,
             especially
             when
             it
             happens
             to
             fall
             out
             it
             Summer
             ,
             considering
             the
             violent
             Heat
             that
             reigns
             throughout
             all
             Asia
             .
             This
             Fast
             is
             call'd
             Ramadan
             ,
             and
             lasts
             Thirty
             Days
             ,
             during
             which
             time
             the
             Turks
             are
             oblig'd
             by
             the
             Alchoran
             to
             begin
             their
             Fast
             every
             Morning
             assoon
             as
             they
             can
             discern
             a
             Black
             Thread
             from
             a
             White
             ,
             and
             to
             continue
             their
             Abstinence
             till
             the
             same
             Hour
             at
             Night
             ,
             which
             is
             proclaim'd
             by
             the
             Muezins
             and
             Marabouts
             from
             the
             top
             of
             the
             Minare●s
             .
             Then
             they
             let
             loose
             the
             Reins
             to
             their
             wild
             Desires
             ,
             spending
             the
             whole
             Night
             in
             Gluttony
             and
             Drunkenness
             ,
             and
             roaming
             about
             the
             Streets
             :
             For
             during
             this
             Month
             they
             turn
             the
             Day
             into
             Night
             ,
             and
             the
             Night
             into
             Day
             ,
             and
             greedily
             hunt
             after
             all
             sorts
             of
             Pleasures
             ,
             to
             allay
             the
             severity
             of
             the
             Fast
             ,
             which
             ,
             notwithstanding
             all
             the
             Pains
             they
             take
             to
             sweeten
             it
             ,
             is
             very
             disagreeable
             to
             Flesh
             and
             Blood.
             It
             ends
             with
             the
             Moon
             ,
             and
             every
             one
             is
             so
             impatient
             to
             see
             the
             New-Moon
             that
             releases
             'em
             from
             this
             loath'd
             Constraint
             ,
             that
             they
             run
             up
             to
             the
             Tops
             of
             Houses
             and
             Mountains
             to
             see
             their
             Deliverer
             rise
             ,
             and
             assoon
             as
             they
             perceive
             her
             gilding
             the
             Horizon
             ,
             they
             salute
             her
             with
             several
             Bows
             ,
             and
             the
             Castles
             proclaim
             the
             glad
             Tidings
             with
             repeated
             Discharges
             of
             their
             Artillery
             .
             The
             Three
             succeeding
             Days
             are
             spent
             in
             Mirth
             and
             Jollity
             ;
             every
             Man
             puts
             on
             his
             best
             Cloaths
             ,
             and
             entertains
             his
             Friends
             .
             This
             is
             properly
             the
             
               Turkish
               Easter
            
             ,
             and
             is
             call'd
             the
             
               Great
               Bairam
            
             ,
             to
             distinguish
             it
             from
             several
             Feasts
             or
             Bairams
             of
             less
             consequence
             ,
             such
             as
             that
             of
             the
             
               Birth
               of
               Mahomet
            
             ,
             &c.
             
          
           
           
             '
             Twou'd
             be
             needless
             to
             tell
             you
             ,
             that
             they
             neither
             eat
             Hog's-Flesh
             ,
             nor
             drink
             Wine
             ,
             and
             that
             they
             cannot
             endure
             Images
             ;
             for
             these
             are
             things
             so
             commonly
             known
             ,
             and
             so
             often
             repeated
             by
             all
             the
             Crowd
             of
             Travellers
             ,
             that
             I
             cannot
             suppose
             you
             to
             be
             ignoront
             of
             '
             em
             .
             But
             ,
             perhaps
             ,
             you
             have
             not
             so
             distinct
             an
             Idea
             of
             the
             Charity
             that
             reigns
             among
             '
             em
             .
             Since
             they
             believe
             Alms
             to
             be
             the
             surest
             Atonement
             for
             Sins
             ,
             they
             neglect
             no
             occasion
             of
             buying
             their
             future
             Peace
             .
             'T
             is
             this
             Principle
             that
             excites
             'em
             to
             leave
             considerable
             Legacies
             at
             their
             Death
             ,
             which
             ,
             according
             to
             the
             Will
             of
             the
             Deceas'd
             ,
             are
             employ'd
             in
             repairing
             public
             Fountains
             ,
             building
             Bridges
             ,
             or
             paying
             the
             Portions
             of
             Indigent
             Maidens
             .
             I
             have
             already
             told
             you
             ,
             that
             their
             Charity
             extends
             even
             to
             Beasts
             ;
             and
             I
             shall
             take
             this
             occasion
             to
             add
             ,
             that
             they
             are
             particularly
             kind
             to
             Dogs
             ,
             tho'
             naturally
             they
             do
             not
             love
             'em
             ,
             and
             keep
             none
             in
             their
             Houses
             .
             Yet
             the
             Cities
             are
             full
             of
             'em
             ,
             where
             they
             wander
             about
             the
             Streets
             ,
             and
             perpetuate
             their
             Kind
             like
             Wild
             Beasts
             .
             They
             are
             so
             mangy
             ,
             lean
             ,
             and
             miserable
             ,
             that
             one
             wou'd
             think
             they
             cou'd
             not
             live
             a
             day
             ;
             and
             I
             have
             seen
             some
             of
             'em
             at
             Constantinople
             so
             near
             Starving
             ,
             that
             they
             wou'd
             jump
             into
             the
             Sea
             for
             some
             Bits
             of
             Carrion
             which
             they
             perceiv'd
             at
             the
             bottom
             .
             However
             ,
             since
             they
             cou'd
             not
             possibly
             live
             on
             what
             they
             find
             in
             the
             Streets
             ,
             the
             richer
             sort
             of
             Turks
             buy
             Provisions
             for
             'em
             ,
             and
             feed
             'em
             every
             Morning
             at
             their
             Doors
             with
             Eleemosinary
             Bread
             and
             Flesh
             .
             They
             reckon
             it
             a
             heinous
             Crime
             to
             kill
             a
             
               Dog
               ,
               Cat
               ,
               Horse
            
             ,
             or
             any
             other
             Creature
             that
             is
             not
             appointed
             for
             the
             Food
             and
             Nourishment
             of
             Mankind
             :
             For
             they
             pretend
             that
             since
             Man
             is
             not
             the
             Author
             of
             their
             Life
             ,
             he
             ought
             not
             to
             deprive
             'em
             of
             it
             .
          
           
           
             I
             shall
             take
             this
             occasion
             to
             relate
             the
             Story
             of
             an
             Accident
             that
             happen'd
             in
             this
             place
             ,
             not
             above
             eight
             days
             ago
             .
             There
             was
             a
             Dog
             that
             us'd
             always
             to
             howl
             ,
             when
             he
             heard
             the
             Muezin
             calling
             the
             People
             to
             Prayers
             from
             the
             Minaret
             .
             The
             Turks
             ,
             who
             are
             Superstitious
             ,
             even
             beyond
             Imagination
             ,
             cou'd
             not
             behold
             their
             most
             Holy
             Rites
             profan'd
             by
             an
             Impudent
             Cur
             ,
             without
             an
             extream
             Indignation
             :
             Yet
             they
             durst
             not
             kill
             him
             for
             fear
             of
             offending
             GOD.
             However
             ,
             they
             found
             out
             a
             way
             to
             chastise
             the
             daring
             Criminal
             ,
             without
             provoking
             the
             Wrath
             of
             Heaven
             :
             For
             notwithstanding
             all
             their
             Veneration
             for
             his
             Person
             ,
             they
             were
             loath
             to
             allow
             him
             greater
             Privileges
             than
             they
             claim
             for
             themselves
             .
             After
             mature
             deliberation
             on
             such
             a
             weighty
             and
             important
             Case
             ,
             they
             ventur'd
             at
             last
             to
             seize
             him
             ,
             and
             carry
             him
             before
             the
             Cadi
             ,
             where
             they
             Indicted
             him
             as
             a
             Dgiahour
             ,
             or
             Christian
             ,
             who
             derided
             the
             Law
             of
             the
             Prophet
             .
             The
             Evidence
             was
             so
             plain
             ,
             that
             after
             a
             full
             Hearing
             poor
             Towzer
             was
             condemn'd
             to
             be
             Cudgel'd
             to
             Death
             ,
             and
             the
             Sentence
             was
             immediately
             executed
             .
             Perhaps
             the
             oddness
             of
             this
             Relation
             may
             make
             you
             suspect
             my
             Veracity
             so
             far
             as
             to
             imagine
             ,
             that
             I
             Invented
             it
             on
             purpose
             to
             divert
             you
             :
             But
             ,
             in
             short
             ,
             you
             must
             either
             believe
             it
             ,
             or
             in
             plain
             Terms
             give
             me
             the
             Lye.
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             I
             dare
             not
             warrant
             the
             truth
             of
             the
             Story
             I
             'm
             going
             to
             tell
             you
             ,
             but
             since
             it
             relates
             to
             the
             same
             Subject
             ,
             you
             must
             e'en
             be
             content
             to
             read
             it
             .
          
           
             Besides
             the
             
               ordinary
               Dogs
            
             that
             wander
             about
             the
             Streets
             ,
             there
             are
             others
             call'd
             Jaccals
             ,
             or
             Chacaly
             ,
             that
             run
             in
             the
             Fields
             ,
             where
             they
             make
             a
             hideous
             noise
             every
             Night
             .
             They
             do
             not
             Bark
             like
             other
             Dogs
             ,
             but
             have
             a
             kind
             of
             sharp
             or
             yelling
             Cry
             ,
             peculiar
             to
             themselves
             .
          
           
             Now
             (
             if
             you
             'll
             believe
             the
             Turks
             )
             the
             Chacaly
             or
             Wild-Dogs
             ,
             in
             ancient
             Times
             ,
             Inhabited
             the
             
             Cities
             ,
             and
             the
             other
             Dogs
             liv'd
             in
             the
             Fields
             .
             They
             were
             perpetual
             and
             irreconcilable
             Enemies
             to
             each
             other
             ,
             and
             fought
             many
             bloody
             Battles
             ,
             in
             one
             of
             which
             the
             Chacaly
             were
             Victorious
             ,
             and
             the
             Forces
             of
             the
             Dogs
             were
             so
             shatter'd
             that
             they
             were
             oblig'd
             to
             beg
             a
             Peace
             ,
             which
             was
             granted
             by
             their
             Generous
             Enemies
             on
             these
             favourable
             Terms
             ;
             That
             the
             Dogs
             might
             stay
             in
             the
             City
             till
             their
             Wounds
             were
             heal'd
             ,
             during
             which
             time
             the
             Chacaly
             shou'd
             retire
             to
             the
             Country
             ;
             but
             that
             afterwards
             both
             Parties
             shou'd
             return
             to
             their
             former
             Habitations
             .
             These
             Conditions
             were
             punctually
             perform'd
             by
             the
             Chacaly
             ,
             but
             the
             Dogs
             growing
             lusty
             and
             strong
             ,
             resolv'd
             to
             maintain
             their
             Post
             ,
             and
             have
             ever
             since
             remain'd
             in
             the
             City
             .
             'T
             is
             the
             remembrance
             of
             this
             Injury
             that
             makes
             the
             Chacaly
             call
             to
             the
             Dogs
             every
             Night
             in
             their
             yelling
             Language
             ,
             and
             summon
             'em
             to
             resign
             a
             Place
             which
             they
             usurp'd
             so
             unjustly
             ;
             and
             they
             answer
             as
             they
             Bark
             ,
             crying
             still
             ,
             
               Yock
               ,
               Yock
            
             ,
             which
             ,
             in
             the
             Turkish
             Language
             signifies
             
               No
               ,
               no.
            
             But
             ,
             instead
             of
             insisting
             longer
             on
             these
             insipid
             Fables
             ,
             I
             shall
             return
             to
             the
             
               Turkish
               Religion
            
             ,
             which
             is
             little
             less
             absurd
             and
             ridiculous
             .
          
           
             They
             are
             so
             besotted
             with
             their
             Conceits
             about
             Predestination
             ,
             that
             they
             use
             no
             manner
             of
             precaution
             to
             preserve
             themselves
             from
             Infectious
             Distempers
             ,
             and
             are
             offended
             at
             the
             Christians
             for
             taking
             care
             of
             their
             Health
             on
             such
             occasions
             .
             A
             Frenchman
             told
             me
             the
             other
             Day
             ,
             that
             during
             the
             time
             of
             a
             very
             violent
             Contagion
             ,
             he
             perceiv'd
             at
             a
             distance
             some
             Turks
             in
             the
             Street
             ,
             who
             were
             carrying
             the
             Body
             of
             a
             Man
             that
             dy'd
             of
             the
             Plague
             to
             his
             Grave
             .
             As
             he
             was
             turning
             another
             way
             on
             purpose
             to
             avoid
             meeting
             'em
             ,
             one
             of
             the
             Company
             ran
             after
             him
             ,
             and
             clasp'd
             him
             in
             his
             Arms
             ,
             rubbing
             his
             Body
             upon
             him
             several
             times
             ;
             after
             which
             opening
             his
             Vest
             ,
             and
             showing
             him
             a
             large
             
             Plague-Sore
             under
             his
             right
             Pap
             ,
             Learn
             ,
             said
             he
             ,
             
               not
               to
               forsake
               dead
               and
               dying
               Men.
            
             And
             indeed
             ,
             if
             we
             reflect
             seriously
             on
             the
             little
             care
             they
             take
             to
             stop
             that
             raging
             Disease
             ,
             we
             may
             reasonably
             conclude
             ,
             that
             none
             of
             'em
             cou'd
             escape
             without
             a
             kind
             of
             Miracle
             ,
             if
             the
             Distemper
             were
             as
             Contagious
             as
             't
             is
             generally
             thought
             to
             be
             .
             For
             they
             never
             avoid
             the
             Converse
             of
             those
             who
             come
             from
             an
             infected
             Place
             ,
             and
             there
             are
             few
             Ports
             where
             there
             are
             not
             some
             Vessels
             that
             left
             the
             Plague
             reigning
             in
             the
             Towns
             from
             whence
             they
             came
             .
             Yet
             this
             neglect
             of
             the
             Cautions
             us'd
             by
             other
             Nations
             on
             such
             occasions
             ,
             is
             never
             attended
             with
             the
             least
             ill-consequence
             ,
             unless
             when
             the
             disposition
             of
             the
             Air
             has
             a
             sort
             of
             natural
             tendency
             to
             promote
             and
             spread
             the
             Contagion
             ,
             for
             then
             it
             bursts
             forth
             impetuously
             like
             Gun-Powder
             set
             on
             Fire
             .
             But
             this
             is
             not
             the
             Opinion
             of
             the
             Turks
             ,
             for
             they
             absolutely
             deny
             that
             the
             Infection
             depends
             either
             on
             the
             Constitution
             of
             the
             Air
             ,
             or
             of
             humane
             Bodies
             ,
             pretending
             that
             it
             proceeds
             wholly
             from
             a
             supernatural
             Cause
             ,
             and
             that
             when
             GOD
             designs
             to
             execute
             the
             fury
             of
             his
             Vengeance
             on
             obstinate
             Sinners
             ,
             he
             sends
             an
             Army
             of
             
               black
               Angels
            
             to
             destroy
             '
             em
             .
             They
             add
             ,
             that
             every
             Angel
             receives
             of
             Bow
             and
             two
             sorts
             of
             Arrows
             ,
             to
             inflict
             either
             Death
             or
             Sickness
             ,
             with
             orders
             to
             shoot
             their
             mortal
             Arrows
             at
             those
             whom
             they
             find
             under
             the
             Power
             of
             Sin
             ,
             and
             to
             direct
             the
             others
             at
             such
             who
             are
             only
             tainted
             with
             some
             Pollution
             .
             'T
             is
             then
             that
             Men
             stand
             most
             in
             need
             of
             the
             Protection
             of
             their
             
               White
               Angels
            
             ,
             who
             intercede
             for
             'em
             ,
             and
             do
             what
             they
             can
             toward
             the
             Blows
             that
             are
             aim'd
             against
             'em
             ,
             sometimes
             covering
             a
             Man
             entirely
             ,
             when
             they
             perceive
             a
             great
             number
             of
             Enemies
             ready
             to
             attack
             him
             .
             Yet
             notwithstanding
             all
             their
             Care
             ,
             their
             Assistance
             proves
             oftentimes
             ineffectual
             ;
             and
             therefore
             't
             is
             the
             Interest
             of
             every
             Man
             that
             regards
             
             his
             own
             Safety
             ,
             to
             secure
             himself
             against
             the
             Vengeance
             of
             those
             destroying
             Spirits
             ,
             by
             leading
             a
             sinless
             Life
             .
             The
             Turks
             pretend
             ,
             that
             they
             infallibly
             perceive
             the
             Blow
             ,
             when
             the
             Arrow
             pierces
             'em
             :
             And
             even
             some
             Franks
             who
             have
             been
             two
             or
             three
             times
             seiz'd
             with
             the
             Plague
             ,
             assure
             me
             ,
             that
             they
             felt
             a
             certain
             Pricking
             in
             the
             place
             where
             the
             Carbuncles
             break
             forth
             ;
             which
             is
             not
             at
             all
             improbable
             ,
             since
             't
             is
             usual
             for
             such
             a
             troublesome
             Sensation
             to
             accompany
             all
             sorts
             of
             Tumors
             .
             But
             to
             conclude
             this
             Subject
             with
             my
             Letter
             ,
             I
             shall
             only
             add
             ,
             that
             the
             Plague
             which
             rages
             so
             often
             in
             these
             Oriental
             Countries
             ,
             and
             sweeps
             away
             such
             vast
             numbers
             of
             the
             Inhabitants
             ,
             is
             in
             some
             measure
             necessary
             for
             their
             Preservation
             .
             For
             the
             number
             of
             the
             People
             is
             augmented
             Yearly
             by
             at
             least
             a
             fifth
             Part
             ,
             and
             you
             will
             be
             the
             less
             inclin'd
             to
             look
             upon
             this
             as
             a
             Paradox
             ,
             if
             you
             consider
             that
             they
             are
             allow'd
             to
             marry
             four
             Wives
             ,
             and
             to
             keep
             several
             Concubines
             ,
             and
             that
             there
             are
             50000
             Slaves
             brought
             every
             Year
             into
             Turkey
             .
             So
             that
             the
             Country
             wou'd
             be
             quickly
             over-stock'd
             with
             Inhabitants
             ,
             and
             in
             all
             probability
             ,
             the
             People
             wou'd
             be
             in
             danger
             of
             Starving
             ,
             if
             their
             numbers
             were
             not
             lessen'd
             by
             Pestilential
             Distempers
             .
             And
             notwithstanding
             the
             terrible
             Havock
             it
             makes
             ,
             the
             Land
             is
             still
             so
             full
             of
             People
             ,
             that
             a
             Man
             wou'd
             think
             their
             own
             Interest
             shou'd
             make
             'em
             forbid
             the
             Exportation
             of
             Corn
             ,
             especially
             since
             they
             have
             none
             to
             spare
             .
          
           
             I
             am
             ,
             
               SIR
               ,
            
             
               Your
               ,
               &c.
               
            
             
               Smyrna
               ,
               
                 May
                 ,
                 1691.
                 
              
            
          
        
         
           
           
             LETTER
             XXI
             .
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
          
           
             I
             Proceed
             now
             to
             give
             you
             an
             account
             of
             the
             Manners
             and
             Customs
             of
             the
             Turks
             ,
             which
             (
             you
             may
             remember
             )
             was
             the
             last
             of
             the
             three
             Subjects
             I
             undertook
             to
             Discourse
             of
             .
             I
             told
             you
             once
             before
             ,
             and
             I
             shall
             take
             this
             occasion
             to
             repeat
             it
             as
             an
             undoubted
             Truth
             ,
             that
             they
             are
             opposite
             to
             us
             almost
             in
             every
             thing
             :
             And
             this
             Opposition
             appears
             in
             nothing
             more
             plainly
             ,
             than
             in
             their
             obstinate
             adhering
             to
             their
             ancient
             Customs
             .
             In
             our
             Country
             we
             are
             never
             at
             rest
             till
             we
             have
             Invented
             some
             new
             fashion
             ;
             and
             Beauty
             it self
             wou'd
             hardly
             please
             us
             without
             the
             Charms
             of
             Novelty
             .
             Hence
             the
             Turks
             accuse
             the
             Franks
             of
             Fickleness
             and
             Inconstancy
             ,
             and
             boast
             of
             their
             own
             strength
             of
             Mind
             that
             fixes
             steddily
             on
             solid
             Enjoyments
             ,
             without
             deigning
             to
             take
             notice
             of
             Trifles
             .
             I
             confess
             I
             was
             at
             first
             somewhat
             surpriz'd
             at
             the
             difference
             I
             observ'd
             between
             their
             Temper
             and
             ours
             ,
             but
             after
             I
             had
             taken
             all
             possible
             care
             to
             free
             my self
             of
             those
             Prejudices
             that
             are
             wont
             in
             such
             cases
             to
             put
             a
             biass
             upon
             the
             Judgment
             ,
             and
             seriously
             consider'd
             the
             Genius
             of
             that
             Nation
             ;
             I
             found
             that
             what
             they
             call
             
               Strength
               of
               Mind
               ,
               Constancy
            
             ,
             or
             Solidity
             ,
             is
             at
             the
             bottom
             nothing
             else
             but
             a
             pure
             insensibility
             ,
             and
             a
             Weakness
             that
             is
             altogether
             inexcusable
             in
             any
             reasonable
             Creature
             .
             And
             you
             will
             certainly
             be
             of
             the
             same
             Opinion
             when
             I
             have
             told
             you
             ,
             that
             they
             are
             so
             far
             from
             studying
             to
             improve
             their
             Understandings
             ,
             that
             in
             a
             manner
             they
             profess
             and
             glory
             in
             their
             Ignorance
             ;
             and
             that
             their
             Curiosity
             is
             confin'd
             within
             so
             narrow
             a
             compass
             ,
             that
             
             they
             never
             undertake
             a
             Voyage
             without
             some
             covetous
             or
             sordid
             Design
             .
             Besides
             ,
             their
             Indifference
             and
             Unconcern'dness
             for
             the
             Public
             Interest
             ;
             the
             almost
             Monastical
             Solitariness
             of
             their
             Life
             ,
             and
             the
             Laziness
             of
             their
             Temper
             are
             convincing
             Proofs
             of
             the
             truth
             of
             my
             Assertion
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             indeed
             ,
             this
             Character
             must
             not
             be
             extended
             so
             far
             as
             to
             comprehend
             the
             Principal
             Officers
             of
             State
             ,
             or
             those
             who
             are
             engag'd
             in
             Court-Intrigues
             :
             But
             as
             for
             all
             the
             rest
             ,
             they
             scarce
             ever
             look
             beyond
             the
             Sphere
             of
             their
             own
             Families
             :
             And
             provided
             their
             Wives
             be
             handsome
             ,
             their
             Horses
             well
             Curry'd
             ,
             and
             their
             Servants
             Submissive
             and
             Respectful
             ,
             they
             never
             give
             themselves
             the
             trouble
             of
             enquiring
             after
             the
             Affairs
             of
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             World.
             Contented
             with
             their
             Lot
             ,
             they
             sit
             whole
             Days
             on
             a
             Sopha
             ,
             without
             any
             other
             Occupation
             than
             drinking
             Coffee
             ,
             smoaking
             Tobacco
             ,
             or
             caressing
             their
             Wives
             :
             So
             that
             their
             whole
             Life
             is
             a
             continual
             Revolution
             of
             
               Eating
               ,
               Drinking
            
             ,
             and
             Sleeping
             ,
             intermixt
             with
             some
             dull
             Recreations
             .
             Yet
             they
             cannot
             be
             accus'd
             of
             Luxury
             in
             Eating
             ,
             for
             a
             Hen
             boil'd
             with
             Rice
             ,
             Coriander-seed
             ,
             and
             Sugar
             is
             the
             best
             Dish
             that
             comes
             before
             a
             Man
             of
             20000
             Livres
             a
             Year
             ,
             and
             't
             is
             this
             they
             call
             Pilo
             .
             The
             rest
             of
             the
             Meal
             is
             made
             up
             with
             a
             Dish
             of
             Fish
             ,
             and
             some
             Sweet-Meats
             ,
             in
             which
             there
             is
             always
             more
             Honey
             than
             Sugar
             .
             When
             the
             Hour
             of
             Dinner
             comes
             ,
             they
             lay
             upon
             the
             Sopha
             an
             Octangular
             or
             Hexagonal
             Table
             of
             Olive-Wood
             or
             Walnut-Tree
             ,
             inlaid
             with
             Ivory
             ,
             &c.
             and
             usually
             not
             above
             a
             Foot
             and
             a
             half
             in
             Diameter
             .
             Then
             having
             laid
             the
             Cloath
             ,
             they
             serve
             up
             all
             the
             Dishes
             one
             after
             another
             :
             There
             are
             no
             Napkins
             laid
             upon
             the
             Table
             ,
             but
             a
             Servant
             spreads
             'em
             on
             his
             Master's-Knees
             '
             ,
             and
             stands
             behind
             him
             to
             cut
             his
             Meat
             ;
             for
             't
             is
             beneath
             the
             Turkish
             Grandeur
             to
             do
             any
             thing
             for
             themselves
             .
             All
             their
             Vessels
             are
             of
             Earth
             ;
             only
             the
             
             Great
             Men
             use
             Porcelain
             :
             For
             they
             reckon
             it
             a
             very
             heinous
             Sin
             to
             eat
             in
             Silver
             ,
             tho'
             the
             Trappings
             of
             their
             Horses
             are
             usually
             of
             that
             Metal
             .
             They
             never
             drink
             at
             Meals
             ,
             tho'
             they
             are
             wont
             to
             sit
             a
             considerable
             while
             ;
             but
             assoon
             as
             the
             Table
             is
             remov'd
             ,
             the
             Servants
             bring
             a
             Cup
             of
             Sorbet
             ,
             and
             then
             Coffee
             ,
             and
             Tobacco
             ,
             with
             which
             they
             divert
             themselves
             all
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             Day
             ,
             unless
             they
             take
             a
             fancy
             to
             go
             to
             the
             Women's
             Apartment
             ,
             or
             to
             play
             at
             Shells
             with
             one
             of
             their
             Servants
             ,
             who
             must
             always
             suffer
             himself
             to
             be
             beaten
             ,
             as
             he
             wou'd
             avoid
             a
             worse
             Beating
             with
             a
             Cudgel
             .
             At
             Night
             there
             is
             a
             Mat
             brought
             ,
             with
             Sheets
             and
             a
             Coverlet
             ;
             and
             they
             Sleep
             all
             Night
             in
             the
             same
             place
             where
             they
             Eat
             ,
             Drunk
             ,
             Play'd
             ,
             and
             Doz'd
             all
             the
             Day
             :
             For
             they
             are
             altogether
             ignorant
             of
             the
             use
             of
             dark
             Alcoves
             ,
             and
             Beds
             with
             double
             Curtains
             .
             This
             is
             their
             constant
             manner
             of
             Living
             ,
             after
             they
             cease
             to
             be
             Youths
             ;
             for
             betwixt
             the
             Years
             of
             Fifteen
             and
             Twenty
             ,
             they
             spend
             their
             Time
             in
             
               Riding
               ,
               Archery
            
             ,
             throwing
             Darts
             ,
             and
             other
             Exercises
             of
             that
             nature
             in
             which
             they
             usually
             attain
             to
             a
             great
             Perfection
             .
             I
             do
             not
             think
             that
             we
             have
             any
             Grooms
             or
             Jockeys
             in
             Europe
             that
             exceed
             'em
             ,
             tho'
             if
             you
             saw
             'em
             on
             Horseback
             ,
             you
             wou'd
             think
             they
             cou'd
             not
             sit
             a
             moment
             .
             For
             their
             Stirrups
             are
             so
             short
             ,
             that
             they
             must
             almost
             bend
             their
             Legs
             as
             much
             as
             when
             they
             sit
             upon
             a
             Sopha
             :
             Their
             Boots
             are
             of
             Spanish
             or
             
             Goat's-Leather
             ,
             so
             wide
             and
             ill-made
             ,
             that
             nothing
             can
             be
             more
             troublesome
             to
             a
             Horseman
             :
             and
             all
             the
             Furniture
             of
             their
             Horses
             is
             still
             more
             incommodious
             .
             Their
             Saddles
             are
             as
             large
             and
             high
             as
             a
             Pack-saddle
             ,
             especially
             before
             ,
             and
             fasten'd
             on
             the
             Horse's
             back
             ,
             with
             a
             broad
             Girth
             or
             Surcingle
             drawn
             over
             it
             ,
             without
             which
             't
             wou'd
             be
             impossible
             to
             keep
             it
             from
             falling
             off
             ,
             by
             reason
             of
             its
             weight
             .
             Instead
             of
             Bridles
             they
             use
             Snaffles
             that
             
             wou'd
             be
             thought
             bad
             enough
             for
             a
             Cart-Horse
             in
             France
             ,
             if
             they
             were
             not
             richly
             gilded
             .
             Judge
             ,
             Sir
             ,
             what
             a
             Figure
             a
             Man
             can
             make
             on
             the
             back
             of
             a
             Horse
             Trapp'd
             after
             such
             a
             manner
             ,
             and
             what
             Command
             he
             can
             have
             over
             him
             .
             Yet
             I
             assure
             you
             the
             Turks
             rule
             their
             Horses
             as
             they
             please
             ,
             without
             either
             Spur
             or
             Whip
             ,
             instead
             of
             which
             they
             only
             use
             a
             Stick
             or
             Batoon
             three
             Foot
             long
             ,
             and
             as
             big
             as
             a
             very
             large
             Cane
             ,
             which
             they
             hold
             in
             the
             middle
             ,
             striking
             the
             Horse
             sometimes
             with
             one
             end
             ,
             and
             sometimes
             with
             the
             other
             ,
             according
             as
             they
             wou'd
             have
             him
             turn
             to
             either
             side
             .
             I
             never
             saw
             Horses
             run
             so
             fast
             as
             these
             ,
             nor
             stretch
             their
             Bodies
             to
             so
             great
             a
             length
             ,
             for
             their
             Belly
             almost
             touches
             the
             Ground
             .
             The
             Turks
             have
             an
             admirable
             dexterity
             at
             throwing
             Darts
             on
             Horseback
             ;
             for
             riding
             at
             a
             full
             Gallop
             ,
             they
             Dart
             their
             Sticks
             at
             a
             Turbant
             ,
             which
             is
             set
             up
             as
             a
             Mark
             ,
             without
             once
             missing
             their
             Aim
             .
             And
             which
             is
             still
             more
             surprizing
             ,
             they
             throw
             their
             Batoon
             as
             far
             before
             'em
             as
             they
             can
             ,
             then
             putting
             their
             Horse
             to
             the
             swiftest
             Gallop
             they
             take
             it
             up
             with
             their
             Hand
             without
             stopping
             .
             You
             will
             easily
             perceive
             the
             extraordinary
             difficulty
             of
             stooping
             so
             low
             to
             take
             the
             Stick
             from
             the
             Ground
             ,
             if
             you
             remember
             what
             I
             told
             you
             of
             the
             extraordinary
             heighth
             of
             their
             Saddles
             and
             lowness
             of
             their
             Stirrups
             .
             None
             but
             Turks
             are
             able
             to
             perform
             this
             Feat
             of
             Activity
             ,
             for
             the
             Franks
             are
             so
             far
             from
             being
             capable
             of
             Learning
             it
             ,
             that
             they
             can
             hardly
             ride
             the
             Horses
             of
             this
             Country
             .
             One
             of
             our
             Merchants
             ,
             newly
             come
             to
             this
             place
             ,
             met
             with
             an
             Accident
             t'other
             Day
             ,
             that
             confirms
             the
             truth
             of
             what
             I
             was
             saying
             ;
             for
             his
             Horse
             ran
             away
             with
             him
             so
             furiously
             ,
             that
             he
             cou'd
             not
             possibly
             pull
             in
             his
             Head
             ;
             and
             I
             believe
             he
             wou'd
             have
             certainly
             broke
             his
             Neck
             ,
             if
             he
             had
             not
             been
             stop'd
             by
             a
             Greek
             who
             happen'd
             to
             meet
             him
             .
             This
             proceeded
             from
             his
             Ignorance
             of
             the
             way
             of
             stopping
             a
             Horse
             
             in
             this
             Country
             ;
             for
             when
             a
             Horse
             runs
             away
             with
             a
             Man
             ,
             he
             must
             never
             pull
             the
             Bridle
             ,
             since
             that
             wou'd
             only
             make
             him
             go
             the
             faster
             ;
             but
             take
             hold
             of
             one
             of
             the
             Reins
             ,
             and
             turn
             his
             Head
             to
             the
             Right-hand
             ,
             striking
             him
             with
             the
             Rod
             on
             the
             other
             side
             .
          
           
             'T
             is
             none
             of
             the
             least
             Conveniencies
             of
             this
             Country
             ,
             that
             the
             Keeping
             of
             a
             Horse
             is
             so
             cheap
             ,
             that
             the
             Charge
             of
             one
             does
             not
             amount
             to
             above
             30
             Piasters
             a
             Year
             :
             'T
             is
             true
             they
             must
             be
             very
             carefully
             tended
             ,
             and
             the
             Turks
             make
             it
             their
             principal
             Business
             to
             look
             after
             '
             em
             .
             They
             visit
             'em
             very
             often
             ,
             and
             when
             they
             find
             'em
             in
             a
             good
             Condition
             ,
             the
             Saïs
             is
             always
             rewarded
             with
             some
             Caresses
             ;
             but
             if
             there
             be
             any
             thing
             amiss
             ,
             he
             may
             certainly
             expect
             the
             Bastonnado
             .
          
           
             Nor
             are
             their
             Servants
             more
             chargeable
             to
             'em
             than
             their
             Horses
             .
             Their
             
               Valets
               de
               Chambre
            
             cost
             'em
             not
             above
             40
             Piasters
             a
             year
             ,
             for
             Wages
             ,
             besides
             their
             Entertainment
             ,
             which
             is
             inconsiderable
             :
             and
             the
             Servants
             without
             the
             House
             ,
             such
             as
             the
             
               Saïs
               ,
               Porters
            
             ,
             and
             Gardeners
             ,
             have
             but
             25.
             
             As
             for
             their
             Entertainment
             ,
             the
             Rate
             of
             their
             Board-Wages
             is
             fixt
             at
             a
             Paras
             a
             day
             ,
             besides
             Bread.
             The
             Paras
             is
             a
             small
             Piece
             of
             course
             Silver
             ,
             not
             exceeding
             the
             Value
             of
             five
             
               Dutch
               Liards
            
             :
             and
             yet
             some
             of
             'em
             are
             such
             admirable
             Husbands
             ,
             that
             they
             make
             a
             shift
             to
             save
             part
             of
             so
             poor
             an
             Allowance
             .
          
           
             I
             shall
             in
             the
             next
             place
             proceed
             to
             give
             you
             an
             Account
             of
             the
             usual
             Habit
             of
             the
             Men.
             Their
             Breeches
             are
             long
             and
             wide
             ,
             reaching
             down
             to
             their
             Heels
             ,
             and
             close
             both
             behind
             and
             before
             ,
             with
             leathern
             Stockings
             or
             Socks
             fasten'd
             to
             the
             lower
             part
             of
             'em
             :
             and
             all
             this
             is
             call'd
             the
             Chascir
             .
             Their
             Shirts
             are
             of
             very
             fine
             Cotton
             Cloth
             ,
             made
             exactly
             like
             a
             Woman's
             Smock
             ,
             only
             they
             are
             much
             wider
             ,
             especially
             at
             the
             Sleeves
             ,
             which
             are
             always
             left
             open
             .
             Over
             this
             ,
             instead
             of
             a
             Wast-Coat
             ,
             they
             wear
             a
             Cafetan
             ,
             which
             is
             a
             kind
             of
             a
             long
             Cassock
             with
             
             narrow
             Sleeves
             ,
             button'd
             at
             the
             Wrists
             ,
             like
             the
             Sleeves
             of
             our
             Doublets
             .
             In
             the
             Summer
             the
             Cafetans
             are
             made
             of
             very
             white
             Cotton
             Cloth
             ,
             and
             in
             Winter
             of
             Silk
             Stuff
             quilted
             with
             Cotton
             .
             Besides
             ,
             they
             are
             girt
             about
             the
             Waste
             with
             a
             Silken
             Scarf
             ,
             resembling
             Brocard
             ,
             that
             serves
             to
             hang
             their
             Gangiare
             or
             Poniard
             ,
             the
             Handle
             of
             which
             is
             pretty
             large
             ,
             and
             oftentimes
             made
             of
             Ivory
             ,
             the
             Teeth
             of
             a
             certain
             Fish
             ,
             or
             Silver
             ,
             and
             enrich'd
             with
             Jewels
             either
             true
             or
             counterfeit
             .
             They
             never
             appear
             with
             a
             Sword
             or
             Sabre
             ,
             but
             when
             they
             go
             into
             the
             Country
             :
             nor
             are
             the
             Franks
             suffer'd
             to
             wear
             one
             ,
             except
             the
             Ambassadours
             and
             Consuls
             .
          
           
             Their
             upper
             Habit
             is
             a
             Cloth
             Gown
             ,
             which
             they
             call
             a
             Vest
             .
             In
             Summer
             't
             is
             only
             lin'd
             with
             Taffeta
             ;
             but
             in
             Winter
             't
             is
             furr'd
             with
             a
             Skin
             ,
             call'd
             Samour
             ,
             which
             is
             so
             costly
             that
             Great
             Persons
             have
             some
             that
             are
             worth
             1000
             Crowns
             a
             piece
             .
             The
             Hair
             of
             it
             is
             black
             ,
             fine
             ,
             and
             so
             long
             ,
             that
             one
             may
             hide
             an
             Egg
             in
             it
             ;
             I
             speak
             only
             of
             the
             best
             sort
             ;
             for
             there
             are
             some
             of
             all
             Prices
             .
             Besides
             they
             sometimes
             furr
             their
             Vests
             with
             Ermins
             ,
             or
             with
             the
             Skin
             of
             a
             bluish
             sort
             of
             Weasel
             ,
             or
             of
             the
             Muscovia
             Fox
             ;
             and
             the
             poorer
             sort
             with
             Kid
             ,
             Foine
             ,
             or
             Lambs
             Skin
             .
             They
             never
             put
             any
             Gold
             or
             Silver
             on
             their
             Cloaths
             ,
             unless
             on
             Days
             of
             Ceremony
             ,
             such
             as
             the
             Grand
             Signior's
             publick
             Entry
             ,
             their
             Wedding-Day
             ,
             or
             some
             such
             Solemnity
             :
             and
             even
             then
             't
             is
             the
             peculiar
             Privilege
             of
             the
             
             Bassa's
             and
             Grandees
             of
             the
             Port
             ,
             to
             wear
             Ornaments
             of
             that
             Nature
             .
             You
             see
             what
             a
             Difference
             there
             is
             between
             the
             Customs
             of
             this
             Place
             ,
             and
             of
             France
             ,
             where
             even
             the
             Footmen
             are
             gilt
             all
             over
             from
             Head
             to
             Foot.
             
          
           
             Beauty
             is
             the
             Object
             of
             the
             reigning
             Passion
             of
             the
             Turks
             :
             and
             when
             they
             speak
             of
             a
             
               handsome
               Woman
            
             they
             seem
             to
             be
             all
             transport
             and
             extasie
             .
             Yet
             they
             are
             oblig'd
             to
             court
             their
             Mistresses
             by
             Proxy
             ,
             and
             even
             must
             be
             contented
             to
             take
             a
             Character
             of
             'em
             from
             
             
             
             Continency
             ,
             are
             forc'd
             to
             make
             use
             of
             the
             Privilege
             of
             Keeping
             Concubines
             ,
             or
             buying
             Slaves
             .
             For
             a
             Man
             must
             not
             expect
             to
             live
             upon
             Charity
             here
             ,
             tho'
             the
             Women
             are
             not
             at
             all
             guilty
             of
             Cruelty
             :
             but
             want
             of
             Opportunity
             hinders
             'em
             from
             bestowing
             their
             Favours
             ,
             and
             't
             is
             impossible
             for
             a
             Gallant
             to
             thrive
             among
             such
             cautious
             Husbands
             .
             There
             is
             no
             Slavery
             equal
             to
             that
             of
             the
             Turkish
             Women
             ;
             for
             a
             Servant
             may
             live
             Twenty
             Years
             in
             a
             Family
             without
             seeing
             the
             Face
             of
             his
             Mistress
             .
             The
             Door
             of
             the
             Womens
             Apartment
             is
             a
             
               Ne
               plus
               ultra
            
             for
             every
             thing
             that
             looks
             like
             a
             Man
             ,
             and
             the
             utmost
             Limit
             of
             the
             Womens
             Liberty
             ;
             I
             mean
             Women
             of
             Quality
             ,
             who
             have
             Baths
             in
             their
             Houses
             ;
             for
             the
             meaner
             Sort
             must
             go
             to
             the
             public
             Baths
             at
             least
             once
             a
             Week
             .
             Notwithstanding
             this
             close
             Confinement
             ,
             I
             'm
             inform'd
             that
             they
             sometimes
             venture
             upon
             a
             little
             Recreation
             ;
             but
             they
             are
             seldom
             so
             bold
             ,
             and
             the
             Motion
             must
             always
             proceed
             from
             themselves
             .
             When
             they
             are
             in
             the
             Humour
             ,
             and
             have
             chosen
             a
             promising
             Play-fellow
             ,
             they
             send
             him
             a
             Declaration
             of
             Love
             by
             some
             old
             Confident
             .
             But
             wou'd
             you
             not
             be
             surpriz'd
             instead
             of
             a
             Billet-doux
             to
             find
             nothing
             but
             Bits
             of
             
               Charcoal
               ,
               Scarlet
               Cloth
               ,
               Saffron
               ,
               Ashes
               ,
            
             and
             such
             like
             Trash
             ,
             wrapt
             up
             in
             a
             Piece
             of
             Paper
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             these
             are
             as
             significant
             as
             the
             most
             passionate
             Words
             ;
             but
             't
             is
             a
             Mystical
             Language
             that
             cannot
             be
             understood
             without
             a
             Turkish
             Interpreter
             .
             I
             know
             a
             Frank
             that
             once
             receiv'd
             such
             an
             Invitation
             ,
             and
             was
             extremely
             puzzl'd
             to
             know
             the
             Meaning
             of
             it
             .
             After
             several
             successless
             Trials
             to
             unriddle
             the
             Mystery
             ,
             he
             entrusted
             the
             Secret
             to
             one
             of
             the
             Ambassadour's
             Interpreters
             ,
             who
             told
             him
             that
             such
             a
             
             Bassa's
             Wife
             desir'd
             him
             to
             visit
             her
             such
             a
             day
             ,
             when
             her
             Husband
             wou'd
             be
             gone
             from
             home
             ,
             and
             that
             the
             Woman
             who
             brought
             him
             the
             Message
             wou'd
             introduce
             him
             to
             her
             Apartment
             .
             At
             the
             same
             time
             he
             advis'd
             him
             not
             to
             go
             ,
             and
             us'd
             
             all
             the
             Arguments
             that
             his
             Experience
             or
             Prudence
             cou'd
             suggest
             to
             disswade
             him
             from
             exposing
             himself
             to
             so
             terrible
             and
             unavoidable
             a
             Danger
             .
             But
             the
             Frank
             had
             such
             a
             longing
             desire
             to
             taste
             so
             delicious
             a
             Bit
             as
             he
             fansi'd
             his
             Unknown
             Mistress
             to
             be
             ,
             that
             he
             resolv'd
             to
             sacrifice
             all
             to
             the
             Dear
             Expectation
             ,
             and
             went
             boldly
             to
             the
             
             Bassa's
             House
             at
             the
             time
             appointed
             ,
             where
             he
             really
             found
             a
             kind
             and
             beautiful
             Lady
             ,
             who
             put
             him
             in
             possession
             of
             his
             expected
             Delight
             ,
             and
             entertain'd
             him
             with
             all
             the
             Joys
             of
             Love
             ,
             for
             two
             days
             ;
             at
             the
             end
             of
             which
             his
             Strength
             being
             quite
             exhausted
             by
             the
             laborious
             Pleasure
             ,
             and
             finding
             himself
             altogether
             unfit
             for
             the
             Service
             ,
             he
             ask'd
             leave
             to
             be
             gone
             ,
             and
             was
             extremely
             surpriz'd
             when
             his
             Request
             was
             deny'd
             ,
             in
             a
             very
             harsh
             and
             uncivil
             Manner
             .
             Then
             beginning
             to
             reflect
             on
             the
             Interpreter's
             wise
             Admonition
             ;
             he
             walk'd
             about
             the
             whole
             Apartment
             ,
             searching
             in
             every
             Corner
             for
             a
             place
             where
             he
             might
             escape
             unperceiv'd
             .
             At
             last
             he
             came
             to
             the
             Laundry
             or
             Washing-House
             ,
             where
             he
             found
             a
             Woman-Slave
             ,
             who
             perceiving
             his
             Melancholy
             ,
             and
             guessing
             the
             Cause
             of
             it
             ,
             began
             to
             condole
             his
             Misfortune
             in
             a
             manner
             that
             made
             him
             utterly
             despair
             of
             Relief
             .
             For
             she
             told
             him
             that
             't
             was
             her
             Mistress's
             constant
             Practice
             to
             secure
             her
             own
             Reputation
             by
             the
             Death
             of
             her
             Lovers
             ;
             adding
             ,
             that
             to
             her
             certain
             Knowledge
             above
             Twenty
             of
             'em
             had
             been
             strangl'd
             since
             she
             came
             into
             the
             Family
             ,
             and
             that
             he
             cou'd
             not
             reasonably
             expect
             a
             milder
             Treatment
             than
             his
             Predecessors
             had
             met
             with
             before
             him
             .
             Yet
             ,
             said
             she
             ,
             
               since
               we
               are
               both
            
             Christians
             ,
             
               I
               'll
               endeavour
               to
               save
               your
               Life
               ,
               if
               you
               do
               not
               force
               me
               to
               hate
               you
               by
               refusing
               to
               grant
               me
               one
               Favour
               .
               I
               have
               been
               shut
               up
               in
               this
               place
               these
               Twenty
               Years
               ,
               and
               in
               all
               that
               time
               have
               not
               seen
               the
               Face
               of
               a
               Man
               :
            
             Oblige
             
               me
               but
               once
               ,
               and
               afterwards
               I
               shall
               find
               a
               way
               to
               set
               you
               at
               Liberty
               .
            
             The
             Terms
             were
             somewhat
             hard
             for
             a
             Man
             in
             his
             Condition
             ;
             but
             since
             his
             Life
             was
             at
             stake
             ,
             he
             made
             a
             Vertue
             of
             Necessity
             ,
             
             and
             perform'd
             as
             well
             as
             he
             cou'd
             .
             The
             poor
             Woman
             ,
             who
             had
             been
             a
             Stranger
             so
             long
             to
             the
             Pleasure
             of
             Love
             ,
             was
             ravish'd
             with
             the
             unaccustom'd
             Delight
             ;
             and
             having
             given
             him
             a
             thousand
             Blessings
             ,
             help'd
             him
             to
             make
             his
             Escape
             thro'
             the
             Chimney
             ,
             which
             brought
             him
             to
             a
             Platform
             ,
             from
             whence
             he
             leap'd
             into
             the
             Street
             ,
             and
             has
             never
             since
             found
             the
             least
             Inclination
             to
             make
             Love
             to
             a
             
               Turkish
               Lady
            
             ;
             which
             is
             certainly
             the
             most
             dangerous
             Recreation
             that
             a
             Frank
             can
             chuse
             .
             The
             Turks
             require
             so
             much
             Modesty
             and
             Discretion
             in
             their
             Wives
             ,
             that
             they
             wou'd
             never
             pardon
             'em
             if
             they
             shou'd
             suffer
             a
             Man
             to
             see
             'em
             ,
             or
             speak
             to
             'em
             :
             and
             I
             shall
             never
             forget
             what
             an
             Aga
             once
             said
             to
             
               Monsieur
               de
            
             Chateauneuf's
             Secretary
             .
             This
             Gentleman
             was
             telling
             the
             Aga
             after
             the
             French
             way
             ,
             that
             is
             very
             indiscreetly
             ,
             that
             he
             had
             seen
             and
             spoken
             with
             one
             of
             
               Mahomet
               the
            
             Fourth's
             Odalische's
             ,
             who
             was
             turn'd
             out
             of
             the
             Seraglio
             after
             that
             Prince's
             Misfortune
             .
             The
             Turk
             ,
             who
             cou'd
             not
             hear
             him
             longer
             with
             Patience
             ,
             reply'd
             very
             angrily
             ,
             that
             she
             was
             a
             base
             Woman
             ,
             and
             unworthy
             of
             her
             former
             Dignity
             .
             Then
             the
             Secretary
             endeavour'd
             to
             persuade
             him
             that
             she
             had
             no
             ill
             Design
             in
             what
             she
             did
             ,
             and
             that
             't
             was
             only
             an
             innocent
             Curiosity
             that
             made
             her
             willing
             to
             be
             inform'd
             of
             the
             French
             Customs
             ,
             of
             the
             Beauty
             of
             the
             Ladies
             in
             that
             Country
             ,
             and
             of
             their
             Way
             of
             Living
             .
             But
             the
             Aga
             ,
             instead
             of
             being
             pacify'd
             ,
             continu'd
             to
             rail
             again
             the
             Odalische
             so
             vehemently
             ,
             that
             the
             Secretary
             began
             to
             repent
             his
             Freedom
             ,
             and
             to
             swear
             and
             protest
             that
             she
             was
             one
             of
             the
             most
             vertuous
             Persons
             in
             the
             World
             ,
             and
             that
             she
             was
             not
             guilty
             of
             the
             least
             criminal
             Thought
             .
             At
             last
             the
             Aga
             ,
             losing
             all
             Patience
             ,
             reply'd
             in
             a
             Rage
             ;
             
               Sir
               ,
               All
               that
               you
               have
               said
               signifies
               nothing
               .
               If
               she
               had
               been
               honest
               ,
               she
               wou'd
               never
               have
               suffer'd
               you
               to
               see
               her
               ,
               much
               less
               to
               speak
               to
               her
               .
               If
               a
               Man
               shou'd
               put
               his
               
               Hand
               into
               your
               Pocket
               ,
               wou'd
               you
               excuse
               him
               for
               saying
               that
               he
               did
               it
               out
               of
               pure
               Curiosity
               .
            
          
           
             Since
             I
             have
             had
             occasion
             so
             often
             to
             mention
             the
             
               Turkish
               Women
            
             ,
             't
             will
             not
             be
             improper
             to
             give
             you
             some
             Account
             of
             their
             Habit
             ,
             which
             is
             not
             much
             different
             from
             that
             of
             the
             Men
             ,
             only
             't
             is
             a
             great
             deal
             richer
             .
             They
             wear
             a
             Cafetan
             of
             Gold-Brocard
             ,
             fasten'd
             before
             with
             large
             Pearls
             ,
             or
             little
             Knots
             of
             Diamonds
             .
             It
             covers
             their
             Shoulders
             entirely
             ,
             but
             't
             is
             cut
             so
             deep
             before
             ,
             that
             their
             whole
             Breasts
             wou'd
             remain
             naked
             ,
             if
             their
             Smock
             ,
             and
             a
             little
             fort
             of
             Waste-Coat
             that
             comes
             over
             it
             ,
             did
             not
             hide
             a
             part
             of
             '
             em
             .
             This
             Waste-Coat
             sits
             very
             close
             to
             the
             Body
             ,
             and
             keeps
             up
             the
             Breasts
             ,
             which
             is
             a
             great
             Conveniency
             to
             those
             whose
             Breasts
             are
             naturally
             loose
             and
             swagging
             :
             so
             that
             all
             Defects
             are
             conceal'd
             ,
             and
             the
             most
             curious
             Eye
             can
             perceive
             nothing
             but
             
               enchanting
               Beauties
            
             .
             Above
             the
             Cafetan
             they
             wear
             a
             
               Leathern
               Girdle
            
             ,
             cover'd
             with
             Plates
             and
             Studs
             of
             Gold
             and
             Silver
             ,
             and
             enrich'd
             with
             precious
             Stones
             that
             cast
             a
             great
             Lustre
             .
             Their
             Smock
             is
             always
             of
             the
             finest
             flower'd
             Silk
             ,
             and
             hangs
             over
             their
             Chacsir
             ,
             which
             in
             Summer
             is
             only
             made
             of
             the
             same
             Silk
             ,
             by
             reason
             of
             the
             excessive
             Heat
             .
             Every
             prudent
             Christian
             ought
             to
             keep
             his
             Eyes
             from
             glancing
             that
             way
             ;
             if
             it
             be
             possible
             for
             any
             Man
             to
             preserve
             his
             Reason
             at
             the
             Sight
             of
             the
             enflaming
             Object
             ,
             for
             this
             Stuff
             ,
             which
             is
             no
             thicker
             than
             Tiffany
             or
             Gawze
             ,
             gives
             the
             ravish'd
             Beholder
             an
             almost
             unclouded
             View
             of
             all
             the
             most
             charming
             Beauties
             that
             are
             so
             carefully
             conceal'd
             by
             our
             Ladies
             .
             Their
             upper
             Vest
             is
             either
             of
             Cloth
             or
             Velvet
             embroider'd
             ,
             or
             of
             some
             rich
             sort
             of
             Cloth
             of
             Gold
             :
             In
             Summer
             't
             is
             furr'd
             with
             Ermin
             ,
             and
             in
             Winter
             with
             Samour
             .
             Their
             Head-Dress
             is
             so
             magnificent
             and
             becoming
             ,
             that
             you
             can
             hardly
             form
             a
             suitable
             Idea
             of
             it
             unless
             you
             had
             seen
             it
             ;
             tho'
             the
             following
             Description
             may
             in
             some
             measure
             satisfie
             your
             
             Curiosity
             .
             Their
             Talpo
             is
             a
             pretty
             long
             Velvet-Cap
             ,
             made
             of
             Eight
             Pieces
             ,
             the
             outward
             Circle
             being
             just
             large
             enough
             to
             receive
             the
             Head
             ;
             but
             it
             widens
             by
             degrees
             towards
             the
             Top
             ,
             not
             unlike
             to
             a
             close
             Crown
             .
             'T
             is
             adorn'd
             with
             the
             richest
             Embroidery
             of
             Gold
             ,
             Silver
             ,
             and
             Pearls
             :
             and
             is
             so
             long
             ,
             that
             it
             wou'd
             fall
             back
             upon
             the
             Shoulders
             ,
             if
             it
             were
             not
             very
             artificially
             rais'd
             above
             the
             Head
             ,
             where
             they
             pleit
             and
             fold
             it
             with
             as
             much
             Care
             as
             our
             Ladies
             do
             their
             Fontanges
             and
             Top-Knots
             .
             'T
             is
             also
             enrich'd
             with
             long
             Strings
             of
             Pearls
             curiously
             interwoven
             ,
             and
             strew'd
             with
             Diamonds
             ,
             Rubies
             ,
             and
             all
             sorts
             of
             Jewels
             ,
             besides
             one
             or
             two
             Aigrets
             of
             Diamonds
             .
             To
             keep
             it
             up
             they
             bind
             it
             about
             the
             Head
             with
             a
             Frontlet
             ,
             about
             two
             Fingers
             breadth
             broad
             ,
             and
             so
             rich
             ,
             that
             it
             may
             be
             fitly
             call'd
             a
             Diadem
             ;
             for
             't
             is
             cover'd
             all
             over
             with
             Gold
             and
             Precious
             Stones
             .
             Round
             this
             Frontlet
             there
             are
             little
             Gold
             Chains
             ,
             with
             a
             Diamond
             hanging
             at
             one
             ,
             an
             Emerald
             at
             another
             ,
             &c.
             which
             dangle
             upon
             the
             Forehead
             ,
             and
             on
             both
             sides
             of
             the
             Face
             .
             I
             need
             not
             tell
             you
             that
             such
             magnificent
             Dresses
             are
             only
             us'd
             by
             
             Bassa's
             Wives
             ,
             for
             tho'
             Jewels
             are
             cheaper
             here
             than
             in
             Europe
             ,
             they
             are
             still
             so
             chargeable
             ,
             that
             it
             requires
             a
             very
             considerable
             Estate
             to
             make
             so
             great
             a
             Figure
             .
             However
             I
             can
             assure
             you
             that
             every
             Woman
             ,
             according
             to
             her
             Ability
             ,
             decks
             her self
             to
             the
             best
             Advantage
             ;
             and
             the
             whole
             Dowry
             ,
             or
             the
             Money
             that
             is
             given
             by
             the
             Father
             ,
             is
             laid
             out
             on
             Ornaments
             for
             the
             Bride
             .
             But
             when
             a
             Woman's
             Portion
             is
             not
             sufficient
             to
             purchase
             so
             many
             Jewels
             ,
             she
             must
             content
             her self
             with
             a
             plain
             Frontlet
             of
             Gold
             ,
             or
             Silver-gilt
             ;
             and
             some
             that
             cannot
             reach
             so
             high
             ,
             only
             tye
             an
             embroider'd
             Handkerchief
             about
             their
             Talpo's
             ,
             which
             is
             the
             Dress
             of
             the
             poorest
             Sort
             ,
             and
             even
             the
             meanest
             
             Cobler's
             Wife
             will
             not
             appear
             without
             it
             .
             As
             for
             their
             Hair
             ,
             they
             make
             it
             up
             into
             a
             long
             Tress
             ,
             about
             the
             breadth
             of
             four
             Fingers
             ,
             that
             
             falls
             backward
             ,
             and
             sometimes
             reaches
             to
             their
             Heels
             ;
             and
             they
             whose
             Hair
             is
             not
             becoming
             ,
             endeavour
             to
             supply
             that
             Defect
             ,
             by
             mixing
             false
             Hair
             among
             it
             .
             Besides
             ,
             there
             is
             a
             little
             Curl
             on
             each
             side
             of
             the
             Forehead
             ,
             that
             runs
             along
             the
             Face
             :
             And
             they
             are
             very
             careful
             to
             keep
             these
             Curls
             in
             Order
             ,
             and
             to
             dye
             'em
             Black
             with
             a
             certain
             Composition
             ,
             that
             serves
             also
             to
             dye
             their
             Brows
             ,
             which
             are
             always
             extremely
             handsome
             :
             For
             they
             take
             care
             to
             have
             'em
             shap'd
             with
             a
             Razor
             ,
             and
             afterwards
             apply
             to
             the
             shav'd
             Parts
             a
             certain
             Paste
             ,
             call'd
             Pilo
             ,
             which
             hinders
             the
             Hair
             from
             growing
             .
          
           
             In
             Turkey
             ,
             as
             well
             as
             in
             Europe
             ,
             the
             Women
             generally
             Paint
             ;
             for
             tho'
             they
             're
             asham'd
             to
             acknowledge
             it
             ,
             I
             met
             with
             a
             Greekish
             Woman
             ,
             who
             scrupl'd
             not
             to
             confess
             that
             few
             of
             her
             Sex
             abstain
             from
             that
             Custom
             .
             Their
             
               White
               Paint
            
             is
             a
             sort
             of
             very
             thick
             Grease
             ,
             which
             I
             cannot
             describe
             ,
             since
             I
             had
             not
             the
             Curiosity
             to
             enquire
             how
             they
             make
             it
             .
             But
             as
             for
             their
             
               Red
               Paint
            
             ,
             't
             is
             nothing
             else
             but
             Cochineel
             ,
             prepar'd
             with
             
               Cream
               of
               Tartar
            
             ,
             and
             boil'd
             so
             long
             till
             there
             remains
             only
             a
             Tenth
             Part
             of
             the
             Composition
             .
             They
             use
             it
             with
             so
             much
             Success
             ,
             that
             I
             believe
             it
             might
             serve
             for
             
               Spanish
               Vermilion
            
             ,
             and
             even
             is
             ,
             in
             my
             Opinion
             ,
             more
             natural
             .
             They
             also
             Paint
             their
             Nails
             Red
             ,
             but
             not
             with
             Cochineel
             .
          
           
             The
             Turkish
             Women
             are
             the
             most
             charming
             Creatures
             in
             the
             World
             :
             They
             seem
             to
             be
             made
             for
             Love
             ;
             their
             Actions
             ,
             Gestures
             ,
             Discourse
             ,
             and
             Looks
             are
             all
             Amorous
             ,
             and
             admirably
             well
             fitted
             to
             kindle
             a
             soft
             and
             lasting
             Passion
             .
             Since
             they
             have
             nothing
             else
             to
             do
             ,
             they
             make
             it
             their
             only
             Business
             to
             Please
             ;
             which
             they
             do
             so
             successfully
             ,
             and
             in
             so
             natural
             and
             easie
             a
             Manner
             ,
             that
             few
             Husbands
             take
             the
             benefit
             of
             the
             Law
             ,
             that
             allows
             'em
             to
             divorce
             their
             Wives
             when
             they
             please
             .
             This
             seems
             so
             strange
             and
             surprizing
             ,
             that
             I
             cannot
             forbear
             
             reckoning
             it
             a
             sort
             of
             Prodigy
             ,
             when
             I
             reflect
             on
             the
             Genius
             of
             all
             other
             Nations
             :
             For
             Men
             are
             usually
             quite
             cloy'd
             with
             the
             Pleasures
             of
             Matrimony
             in
             three
             or
             four
             Years
             ;
             and
             if
             a
             Maid
             had
             nothing
             else
             but
             her
             Person
             to
             recommend
             her
             to
             a
             Husband
             ,
             she
             might
             e'en
             despair
             of
             ever
             tasting
             the
             lawful
             Joys
             of
             the
             Bed.
             Whereas
             in
             this
             Country
             ,
             instead
             of
             enriching
             or
             maintaining
             their
             Husbands
             ,
             they
             put
             'em
             to
             so
             prodigious
             a
             Charge
             ,
             that
             none
             but
             Persons
             of
             high
             Quality
             are
             able
             to
             keep
             four
             Wives
             .
             The
             extreme
             Neatness
             of
             the
             Turkish
             Women
             is
             none
             of
             their
             least
             considerable
             Charms
             ;
             and
             this
             extraordinary
             Cleanness
             is
             an
             effect
             of
             their
             Bathing
             at
             least
             once
             a
             Week
             ;
             for
             the
             nicer
             sort
             bathe
             twice
             .
             I
             think
             I
             told
             you
             before
             that
             Women
             of
             Quality
             have
             the
             conveniency
             of
             Bathing
             at
             Home
             ;
             and
             that
             the
             rest
             go
             to
             the
             common
             Baths
             .
             I
             must
             now
             add
             ,
             that
             the
             Virtue
             ,
             and
             even
             the
             Modesty
             of
             a
             Woman
             is
             as
             secure
             in
             the
             Public
             ,
             as
             in
             the
             Private
             Baths
             ;
             for
             Men
             are
             forbidden
             to
             enter
             into
             these
             Sacred
             Places
             under
             pain
             of
             Death
             .
             These
             Baths
             are
             large
             Halls
             built
             of
             Marble
             ,
             and
             cover'd
             with
             vaulted
             Roofs
             in
             form
             of
             Domes
             ;
             on
             the
             Top
             of
             which
             there
             are
             Glass-Windows
             to
             let
             in
             the
             Light
             ,
             without
             suffering
             the
             Heat
             to
             evaporate
             .
             There
             are
             no
             Windows
             in
             the
             Walls
             ,
             that
             the
             Women
             may
             undress
             themselves
             without
             fear
             of
             exposing
             their
             Naked
             Beauties
             to
             the
             Observation
             of
             some
             Curious
             Enquirer
             into
             the
             Works
             of
             Nature
             ;
             and
             besides
             ,
             they
             take
             care
             to
             cover
             their
             Distinguishing
             Parts
             with
             a
             Cloth
             wrapt
             about
             their
             Belly
             ,
             and
             tied
             on
             the
             Back
             .
             Then
             they
             Sweat
             a
             quarter
             of
             an
             Hour
             or
             longer
             ;
             and
             for
             the
             Conveniency
             of
             those
             who
             are
             desirous
             to
             bathe
             in
             Water
             ,
             there
             is
             in
             the
             same
             Place
             a
             Va●
             or
             Bathing-Tub
             ,
             which
             they
             fill
             with
             hot
             Water
             by
             turning
             a
             Cock
             ,
             tempering
             and
             allaying
             it
             when
             't
             is
             excessively
             
             hot
             ,
             by
             turning
             another
             Cock
             that
             lets
             in
             cold
             Water
             .
             There
             are
             Waiting-Women
             always
             ready
             to
             attend
             those
             who
             come
             to
             bathe
             ,
             who
             for
             a
             small
             Reward
             crack
             all
             the
             Joynts
             of
             their
             Arms
             ,
             Legs
             ,
             and
             Thighs
             .
             At
             the
             same
             time
             they
             anoint
             the
             hairy
             Parts
             of
             the
             Body
             with
             Pilo
             ,
             which
             makes
             the
             Hair
             fall
             off
             ,
             and
             leaves
             the
             Skin
             extremely
             white
             and
             smooth
             .
             The
             Men
             have
             their
             Baths
             apart
             ,
             and
             are
             serv'd
             after
             the
             same
             manner
             .
          
           
             There
             are
             three
             sorts
             of
             Recreations
             us'd
             by
             the
             
               Turks
               ;
               Gaming
               ,
               Musick
            
             ,
             and
             Dancing
             .
             You
             may
             perceive
             by
             the
             Account
             I
             gave
             you
             of
             their
             Games
             ,
             that
             they
             are
             neither
             Pleasant
             nor
             Ingenious
             :
             And
             I
             shall
             take
             this
             occasion
             to
             tell
             you
             ,
             that
             their
             Musick
             is
             rather
             a
             hideous
             Dinn
             than
             a
             regular
             Harmony
             ,
             and
             resembles
             exactly
             the
             howling
             Shrieks
             of
             a
             tortur'd
             Wretch
             .
             The
             first
             time
             I
             heard
             a
             Turk
             sing
             ,
             I
             cou'd
             not
             forbear
             stopping
             to
             look
             upon
             him
             ,
             concluding
             that
             he
             was
             certainly
             Mad
             :
             For
             I
             cou'd
             not
             imagine
             that
             a
             Man
             who
             had
             the
             use
             of
             his
             Reason
             ,
             wou'd
             take
             pleasure
             in
             distorting
             his
             Body
             ,
             and
             rolling
             his
             Eyes
             in
             so
             odd
             and
             extravagant
             a
             manner
             ;
             tho'
             they
             pretend
             that
             all
             those
             unusual
             Motions
             are
             only
             the
             Marks
             and
             Effects
             of
             a
             tender
             and
             violent
             Passion
             .
             Their
             
               Musical
               Instruments
            
             are
             extremely
             suitable
             to
             the
             Nature
             of
             their
             Harmony
             :
             For
             they
             have
             a
             kind
             of
             Violin
             with
             three
             Strings
             ,
             a
             Neck
             as
             long
             as
             a
             Man's
             Arm
             ,
             and
             a
             great
             Belly
             like
             the
             Block
             of
             a
             Hat
             ;
             some
             ill-contriv'd
             Flutes
             ;
             little
             Timbrels
             about
             the
             bigness
             of
             one's
             Fist
             ,
             a
             Drum
             ,
             some
             paultry
             Hautbois
             ,
             and
             several
             little
             Brazen
             Targets
             ,
             which
             they
             hold
             in
             their
             Hands
             ,
             and
             knock
             against
             one
             another
             .
             Judge
             ,
             Sir
             ,
             what
             a
             mad
             Consort
             they
             make
             with
             the
             confus'd
             jangling
             of
             so
             many
             inharmonious
             Instruments
             .
             The
             only
             tolerable
             Instrument
             they
             have
             is
             the
             Psalterion
             ,
             which
             is
             cover'd
             with
             Latten
             Strings
             ,
             stretcht
             as
             upon
             a
             Harpsical
             ;
             and
             
             they
             strike
             upon
             'em
             with
             little
             Sticks
             ,
             which
             they
             hold
             betwixt
             their
             two
             Fingers
             .
             All
             the
             Women
             play
             admirably
             well
             on
             this
             Instrument
             ,
             for
             't
             is
             their
             usual
             Diversion
             in
             their
             Chambers
             ,
             especially
             the
             Greeks
             ,
             whose
             Musick
             may
             be
             heard
             with
             Pleasure
             ,
             since
             't
             is
             a
             great
             deal
             more
             agreeable
             than
             that
             of
             the
             Turks
             .
             I
             shall
             only
             add
             on
             this
             Subject
             ,
             that
             neither
             of
             'em
             sing
             the
             Notes
             without
             the
             Words
             ;
             and
             our
             way
             of
             singing
             Tunes
             seems
             so
             ridiculous
             to
             'em
             ,
             that
             they
             usually
             laugh
             at
             the
             Franks
             ,
             and
             ask
             'em
             what
             their
             
               Tartara
               lera
            
             signifies
             .
          
           
             
               The
               Turkish
               Dancing
               P.
               276
            
          
           
             Dancing
             is
             most
             in
             use
             among
             the
             Peasants
             ,
             who
             without
             pretending
             to
             Art
             ,
             or
             learning
             any
             regular
             Steps
             ,
             put
             their
             Bodies
             into
             such
             odd
             and
             extravagant
             Postures
             ,
             that
             the
             nimblest
             Dancing-Master
             wou'd
             be
             extremely
             puzl'd
             to
             imitate
             .
             They
             seem
             to
             be
             actually
             possess'd
             with
             a
             Devil
             ,
             and
             from
             Time
             to
             Time
             break
             forth
             into
             such
             loud
             and
             furious
             Shouts
             ,
             that
             one
             wou'd
             certainly
             conclude
             'em
             to
             be
             acted
             by
             some
             Daemon
             ,
             if
             he
             did
             not
             know
             that
             all
             these
             Motions
             are
             only
             feign'd
             Transports
             .
             They
             usually
             hold
             a
             great
             Stick
             in
             their
             Hands
             ,
             with
             which
             they
             beat
             the
             Walls
             and
             Ground
             in
             a
             furious
             and
             terrible
             Manner
             ,
             and
             continue
             those
             violent
             Agitations
             of
             their
             Feet
             ,
             Hands
             ,
             and
             Head
             ,
             till
             their
             Weariness
             and
             want
             of
             Strength
             oblige
             them
             to
             give
             over
             ;
             and
             even
             sometimes
             they
             Dance
             till
             they
             fall
             down
             in
             a
             sort
             of
             Extasie
             or
             Fit
             of
             Dizziness
             .
             I
             had
             the
             Pleasure
             to
             see
             all
             those
             various
             kinds
             of
             Dances
             at
             Constantinople
             ,
             in
             Monsieur
             de
             Chateauneuf's
             House
             ,
             on
             the
             Day
             appointed
             to
             solemnize
             the
             Publick
             Joy
             for
             the
             advantageous
             Success
             of
             the
             Campagne
             against
             the
             Christians
             .
             And
             these
             Diversions
             were
             succeeded
             by
             a
             certain
             odd
             kind
             of
             Show
             ,
             perform'd
             by
             the
             Jews
             .
             Since
             all
             sorts
             of
             Figures
             are
             an
             abomination
             to
             the
             Turks
             ,
             there
             were
             Puppets
             represented
             in
             Shadows
             on
             the
             Wall
             ,
             which
             Danc'd
             and
             Sung
             to
             the
             Satisfaction
             of
             all
             the
             Company
             ,
             as
             it
             appear'd
             by
             their
             Laughing
             and
             pleasant
             Humour
             .
             I
             cou'd
             not
             understand
             the
             Words
             of
             their
             Songs
             ,
             but
             if
             I
             may
             be
             allow'd
             to
             judge
             of
             their
             Expressions
             by
             their
             Postures
             ,
             they
             were
             certainly
             very
             obscene
             ;
             for
             I
             never
             saw
             any
             thing
             so
             brutish
             as
             the
             Representations
             of
             those
             Shadows
             .
             Nor
             will
             this
             appear
             strange
             to
             those
             
             who
             consider
             that
             the
             Turks
             are
             more
             addicted
             to
             that
             infamous
             Vice
             for
             which
             Sodom
             and
             Gomorrha
             were
             destroy'd
             ,
             than
             any
             other
             Nation
             in
             the
             World
             ;
             and
             that
             the
             Advancement
             of
             one
             half
             of
             the
             great
             Officers
             in
             the
             Empire
             ,
             is
             an
             Effect
             of
             their
             base
             Complaisance
             to
             their
             beastly
             Patrons
             .
             Thus
             the
             Turkish
             Songs
             are
             doubly
             naufeous
             to
             the
             Franks
             ,
             who
             are
             not
             accustom'd
             to
             such
             horrid
             Impurities
             .
          
           
             The
             Puppet-Show
             was
             follow'd
             by
             another
             of
             almost
             the
             same
             Nature
             .
             Four
             Jews
             ty'd
             certain
             Sticks
             cross-wise
             to
             their
             Wrists
             and
             Feet
             ,
             and
             clothing
             them
             like
             Men
             and
             Women
             ,
             plac'd
             themselves
             all
             under
             one
             Covering
             ;
             then
             the
             first
             stretching
             out
             one
             of
             his
             Arms
             ,
             made
             the
             half
             Figures
             Dance
             and
             Sing
             ;
             after
             him
             came
             another
             ;
             then
             a
             third
             ;
             and
             at
             last
             the
             eight
             Arms
             of
             the
             four
             Jews
             perform'd
             several
             extravagant
             Motions
             on
             the
             Covering
             ,
             accompany'd
             with
             a
             confus'd
             Din
             ;
             after
             which
             they
             stood
             upon
             their
             Heads
             ,
             and
             discovering
             eight
             larger
             Figures
             that
             were
             fastned
             to
             their
             Feet
             ,
             entertain'd
             the
             Company
             with
             another
             Show
             exactly
             like
             the
             former
             .
          
           
             I
             had
             occasion
             in
             some
             of
             my
             former
             Letters
             to
             mention
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             Turkish
             Customs
             ;
             and
             you
             may
             conclude
             that
             what
             I
             have
             omitted
             is
             either
             inconsiderable
             ,
             or
             very
             particularly
             describ'd
             by
             other
             Travellers
             .
             And
             therefore
             I
             shall
             conclude
             this
             Subject
             after
             I
             have
             added
             one
             or
             two
             Observations
             concerning
             their
             Civility
             .
             They
             seldom
             make
             any
             Visits
             ,
             but
             when
             they
             come
             to
             treat
             of
             Business
             ;
             and
             those
             who
             do
             are
             always
             entertain'd
             with
             
               Perfumes
               ,
               Coffee
            
             ,
             and
             Sherbet
             ,
             as
             in
             the
             Account
             I
             gave
             you
             of
             Monsieur
             de
             Chasteauneuf's
             Reception
             at
             the
             
             Caimacan's
             House
             .
             The
             Left-hand
             is
             reckon'd
             the
             Place
             of
             Honour
             ,
             because
             't
             is
             next
             the
             Heart
             ;
             and
             when
             they
             salute
             ,
             instead
             of
             pulling
             off
             their
             Turbants
             ,
             they
             lay
             their
             Hands
             upon
             their
             Breast
             ,
             
             and
             at
             the
             same
             time
             bow
             their
             Bodies
             ,
             which
             they
             repeat
             several
             times
             when
             they
             wou'd
             express
             a
             more
             than
             ordinary
             Affection
             to
             the
             Person
             whom
             they
             salute
             .
             This
             is
             the
             whole
             Ceremony
             of
             a
             simple
             Salutation
             ;
             but
             when
             they
             intend
             to
             show
             a
             profound
             Respect
             ,
             they
             must
             not
             only
             lay
             their
             Hand
             upon
             their
             Breast
             ,
             but
             make
             several
             low
             Bows
             ,
             and
             with
             all
             the
             signs
             of
             Humility
             kiss
             the
             lower
             part
             of
             the
             Person
             's
             Vest
             ;
             after
             which
             they
             stand
             upright
             ,
             and
             continue
             still
             to
             keep
             their
             Hand
             upon
             their
             Breast
             ,
             or
             even
             sometimes
             both
             Hands
             ,
             while
             they
             are
             in
             the
             presence
             of
             him
             whom
             they
             wou'd
             respect
             .
             When
             he
             goes
             abroad
             ,
             they
             must
             make
             a
             Lane
             for
             him
             ,
             as
             they
             see
             his
             Servants
             do
             ,
             and
             salute
             him
             with
             a
             low
             Bow
             as
             he
             passes
             by
             .
             Besides
             ,
             in
             the
             Absence
             of
             the
             Servants
             ,
             they
             usually
             present
             their
             Hands
             to
             hold
             him
             under
             the
             Arms
             when
             he
             goes
             up
             or
             down
             Stairs
             ,
             or
             Mounts
             his
             Horse
             ,
             and
             on
             some
             other
             Occasions
             of
             the
             same
             Nature
             ;
             But
             when
             his
             Servants
             are
             present
             ,
             't
             is
             their
             Office
             to
             offer
             their
             Assistance
             to
             their
             Master
             .
             When
             a
             Frank
             makes
             a
             Visit
             to
             his
             Turkish
             Friends
             ,
             they
             still
             present
             him
             with
             a
             Pipe
             after
             his
             Coffee
             ;
             which
             is
             a
             very
             troublesom
             piece
             of
             Civility
             to
             those
             who
             have
             so
             strong
             an
             Aversion
             to
             Tobacco
             as
             I
             have
             ,
             especially
             considering
             the
             peremptory
             Stiffness
             of
             the
             Turks
             ,
             who
             will
             not
             admit
             of
             the
             most
             reasonable
             Excuse
             .
             Some
             great
             Persons
             smoak
             a
             sort
             of
             perfum'd
             Tobacco
             ,
             like
             that
             of
             which
             
               Spanish
               Snuff
            
             is
             made
             ;
             but
             our
             Franks
             never
             use
             any
             of
             that
             kind
             .
          
           
             I
             have
             had
             occasion
             five
             or
             six
             times
             to
             speak
             of
             their
             
               Persons
               of
               Quality
            
             ,
             without
             acquainting
             you
             with
             the
             Nature
             of
             their
             Grandeur
             and
             Nobility
             ;
             and
             therefore
             I
             shall
             conclude
             this
             Letter
             with
             a
             short
             Account
             of
             it
             .
             You
             must
             not
             imagine
             that
             these
             are
             Persons
             of
             an
             Ancient
             and
             Noble
             Extraction
             ;
             for
             tho'
             there
             may
             be
             some
             of
             'em
             that
             are
             honourably
             descended
             ,
             the
             greatest
             part
             of
             'em
             
             owe
             their
             Advancement
             merely
             to
             Fortune
             ,
             or
             are
             the
             Creatures
             of
             some
             Bassa
             ;
             and
             their
             first
             Preferments
             are
             only
             the
             Rewards
             of
             their
             Service
             .
             Thus
             we
             frequently
             see
             that
             a
             poor
             Slave
             is
             advanc'd
             by
             degrees
             to
             the
             highest
             Dignities
             in
             the
             Empire
             ;
             and
             it
             may
             be
             said
             in
             the
             general
             ,
             that
             Riches
             are
             the
             Fountain
             of
             Honour
             in
             Turkey
             .
             This
             Reflexion
             puts
             me
             in
             Mind
             of
             a
             blunt
             Repartee
             that
             was
             made
             to
             the
             Marquess
             
               de
               la
               Marzelliere
            
             by
             one
             of
             these
             Pretenders
             to
             Nobility
             .
             This
             Marquess
             was
             descended
             of
             one
             of
             the
             most
             illustrious
             Families
             in
             Bretaigne
             ,
             and
             yet
             scrupl'd
             not
             to
             marry
             a
             Citizen's
             Daughter
             of
             St.
             Malo's
             ,
             who
             brought
             him
             a
             Portion
             of
             Two
             hundred
             thousand
             Pounds
             .
             However
             ,
             it
             seems
             ,
             her
             Brother
             ,
             whose
             Fortune
             was
             equal
             to
             hers
             ,
             did
             not
             think
             himself
             much
             honour'd
             by
             this
             Allyance
             ;
             for
             imagining
             that
             the
             Lustre
             of
             his
             Gold
             was
             bright
             enough
             to
             make
             amends
             for
             the
             Obscurity
             of
             his
             Birth
             ,
             he
             wou'd
             never
             be
             persuaded
             to
             shew
             the
             least
             respect
             to
             his
             Brother-in-Law
             .
             One
             Day
             as
             they
             were
             disputing
             about
             some
             Points
             of
             Honour
             ,
             after
             several
             angry
             Replies
             ,
             he
             told
             the
             Marquess
             he
             knew
             no
             Reason
             why
             he
             shou'd
             be
             so
             proud
             of
             a
             Title
             ,
             and
             at
             last
             added
             ,
             that
             he
             was
             as
             good
             a
             Marquess
             as
             himself
             .
             
               Marquess
               of
               what
            
             ?
             said
             Monsieur
             
               de
               la
               Marzelliere
               ;
               Of
               what
               ?
            
             reply'd
             he
             ,
             
               I
               'm
               Marquess
               of
               Two
               Hundred
               Thousand
               Crowns
               in
               good
               Lewis
               d'Ors
               .
            
          
           
             I
             have
             made
             it
             my
             Business
             to
             be
             acquainted
             with
             the
             Arch-Bishop
             of
             this
             Place
             ,
             who
             is
             a
             Person
             of
             Wit
             and
             Merit
             ,
             and
             has
             given
             me
             a
             particular
             Account
             of
             the
             principal
             Differences
             between
             the
             Graecian
             and
             Romish
             Religions
             ;
             which
             I
             intend
             shall
             be
             the
             Subject
             of
             my
             next
             Letter
             .
          
           
             
               I
               am
            
             ,
             
               SIR
               ,
            
             
               Your
               &c.
               
            
             
               Smyrna
               ,
               
                 June
                 1691.
                 
              
            
          
        
         
           
           
             LETTER
             XXII
             .
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
          
           
             AFter
             the
             general
             Idea
             I
             have
             given
             you
             of
             the
             Religion
             and
             Customs
             of
             the
             Turks
             ,
             you
             will
             perhaps
             expect
             an
             Account
             of
             their
             Christian
             Subjects
             ,
             the
             Greeks
             ,
             and
             read
             with
             pleasure
             some
             Remarks
             on
             a
             Subject
             of
             which
             I
             have
             often
             observ'd
             that
             even
             the
             more
             inquisitive
             part
             of
             our
             European
             World
             have
             but
             a
             very
             slight
             and
             confus'd
             Notion
             .
          
           
             The
             present
             Condition
             of
             this
             Nation
             is
             so
             miserable
             ,
             and
             so
             apt
             to
             produce
             all
             the
             most
             tender
             Motions
             of
             Compassion
             in
             those
             who
             seriously
             reflect
             upon
             it
             ,
             that
             't
             wou'd
             be
             needless
             to
             heighten
             the
             Gloominess
             of
             the
             Prospect
             by
             comparing
             it
             with
             their
             former
             Glory
             ,
             which
             after
             a
             long
             and
             fatal
             Eclipse
             ,
             was
             restor'd
             to
             its
             ancient
             Splendor
             by
             
               Constantine
               the
               Great
            
             ,
             whose
             Memory
             will
             last
             till
             the
             final
             Period
             of
             the
             World.
             But
             the
             Empire
             of
             the
             East
             ,
             which
             he
             founded
             ,
             and
             united
             to
             that
             of
             the
             West
             ,
             was
             divided
             again
             after
             his
             Death
             ,
             and
             continu'd
             in
             a
             declining
             Condition
             till
             the
             final
             Overthrow
             of
             the
             Palaeologi
             by
             the
             Turks
             ,
             in
             the
             Fifteenth
             Age
             ;
             since
             which
             time
             the
             Greeks
             have
             still
             been
             Slaves
             in
             a
             Country
             of
             which
             they
             were
             formerly
             Sovereigns
             ;
             and
             to
             redeem
             themselves
             from
             the
             Yoak
             under
             which
             they
             are
             born
             ,
             they
             are
             forc'd
             to
             pay
             a
             yearly
             Tribute
             ,
             call'd
             the
             Carache
             ,
             which
             is
             only
             impos'd
             upon
             them
             ,
             and
             their
             Fellow-Slaves
             the
             Jews
             .
             The
             Carache
             is
             a
             perpetual
             Poll-Tax
             ,
             and
             exceeds
             not
             four
             Piasters
             a
             Man
             ;
             and
             yet
             since
             't
             is
             a
             Mark
             of
             their
             Bondage
             ,
             they
             have
             left
             no
             Means
             unessay'd
             to
             deliver
             themselves
             
             from
             it
             ,
             and
             have
             even
             offer'd
             to
             raise
             more
             considerable
             Summs
             another
             way
             .
             Besides
             ,
             there
             are
             oftentimes
             large
             Avanies
             impos'd
             upon
             'em
             ,
             which
             they
             levy
             among
             themselves
             ,
             according
             to
             the
             proportion
             of
             their
             Estates
             .
             All
             their
             Patriarchs
             ,
             Bishops
             ,
             and
             Abbots
             are
             also
             oblig'd
             to
             pay
             for
             their
             Patents
             ;
             and
             the
             Prices
             that
             are
             exacted
             of
             'em
             cannot
             but
             amount
             to
             a
             very
             considerable
             Summ
             ,
             since
             there
             are
             above
             five
             Thousand
             Arch-Bishops
             and
             Bishops
             in
             the
             Turkish
             Empire
             ,
             who
             ,
             reckoning
             one
             with
             another
             ,
             pay
             above
             two
             Thousand
             Piasters
             a-piece
             ,
             as
             a
             Fine
             to
             the
             
               Grand
               Signior
            
             .
             The
             Greeks
             are
             naturally
             Proud
             ,
             and
             lovers
             of
             Pomp
             and
             Magnificence
             :
             Most
             of
             'em
             spend
             higher
             than
             their
             Estates
             will
             bear
             ,
             and
             are
             very
             fond
             of
             the
             Title
             of
             Chelety
             or
             Lord.
             Yet
             even
             the
             richest
             of
             'em
             ,
             of
             which
             there
             is
             a
             considerable
             Number
             ,
             are
             look'd
             upon
             as
             Objects
             of
             Scorn
             and
             Contempt
             by
             the
             Turks
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             they
             are
             not
             insensible
             of
             their
             Slavery
             ,
             and
             perhaps
             wou'd
             willingly
             shake
             off
             the
             insupportable
             Yoak
             of
             their
             Domineering
             Masters
             ;
             but
             the
             Natural
             Impatience
             of
             their
             Temper
             is
             more
             than
             sufficiently
             curb'd
             by
             their
             Weakness
             ,
             and
             want
             of
             Power
             ;
             and
             they
             must
             e'en
             content
             themselves
             with
             repining
             in
             secret
             at
             the
             resistless
             Tyranny
             of
             their
             Oppressors
             :
             For
             they
             are
             seldom
             or
             never
             able
             to
             obtain
             Satisfaction
             for
             the
             Injuries
             they
             receive
             from
             the
             Turks
             ,
             if
             the
             Offenders
             are
             not
             wholly
             destitute
             both
             of
             Friends
             and
             Money
             .
          
           
             The
             Habit
             of
             the
             Greeks
             is
             very
             different
             from
             that
             of
             the
             Turks
             .
             They
             are
             not
             permitted
             to
             wear
             a
             white
             Turbant
             ;
             nor
             must
             their
             Turbants
             be
             of
             the
             same
             bigness
             with
             those
             that
             are
             us'd
             by
             the
             Turks
             ,
             nor
             folded
             after
             the
             same
             manner
             :
             For
             they
             only
             wrap
             a
             little
             piece
             of
             Course
             Cloth
             ,
             either
             blue
             or
             strip'd
             with
             blue
             ,
             two
             or
             three
             times
             about
             their
             Caps
             ;
             and
             even
             usually
             they
             wear
             none
             at
             all
             ,
             but
             
             content
             themselves
             with
             a
             little
             red
             Cap
             which
             is
             not
             large
             enough
             to
             cover
             their
             Ears
             .
             Instead
             of
             a
             Vest
             they
             have
             only
             a
             plain
             Wast-coat
             ,
             which
             is
             very
             short
             ,
             and
             open
             before
             ;
             and
             over
             that
             they
             wear
             another
             that
             meets
             on
             the
             side
             .
             Neither
             ought
             they
             to
             wear
             a
             Chacsir
             after
             the
             Turkish
             Fashion
             ;
             for
             their
             Breeches
             are
             very
             short
             ,
             and
             reach
             not
             below
             the
             Knee
             .
             And
             besides
             ,
             they
             are
             distinguish'd
             from
             the
             Turks
             by
             their
             red
             Babouches
             ;
             for
             those
             that
             are
             us'd
             by
             the
             Turks
             are
             yellow
             .
             Thus
             I
             have
             given
             you
             a
             short
             Account
             of
             the
             Habit
             of
             the
             Greeks
             ;
             but
             tho'
             most
             of
             'em
             do
             ,
             and
             all
             of
             'em
             are
             oblig'd
             to
             wear
             it
             ,
             some
             of
             the
             richer
             sort
             are
             so
             far
             from
             observing
             these
             Regulations
             ,
             that
             they
             can
             scarce
             be
             distinguish'd
             from
             the
             Turks
             but
             by
             their
             Turbants
             :
             And
             even
             all
             Persons
             of
             Note
             ,
             whether
             Franks
             or
             Greeks
             ,
             put
             on
             white
             Turbants
             when
             they
             go
             out
             of
             the
             City
             ,
             as
             I
             have
             had
             occasion
             to
             see
             above
             fifty
             times
             .
             The
             Turks
             have
             of
             late
             conniv'd
             at
             those
             Innovations
             ;
             but
             they
             have
             still
             such
             a
             veneration
             for
             Green
             ,
             that
             the
             Greeks
             dare
             not
             presume
             to
             wear
             it
             :
             nor
             wou'd
             it
             be
             safe
             for
             Franks
             to
             wear
             Green
             in
             the
             midst
             of
             Constantinople
             ,
             tho'
             I
             have
             often
             seen
             'em
             make
             bold
             with
             that
             sacred
             Colour
             .
             Since
             the
             Women
             are
             generally
             invisible
             ,
             they
             are
             not
             oblig'd
             to
             observe
             these
             Marks
             of
             Distinction
             ;
             and
             the
             only
             difference
             between
             their
             Habit
             and
             way
             of
             Dressing
             ,
             and
             that
             of
             the
             Turks
             ,
             is
             that
             they
             must
             ,
             as
             well
             as
             the
             Men
             ,
             abstain
             from
             wearing
             Green.
             Nor
             is
             there
             a
             less
             Resemblance
             between
             'em
             in
             their
             Manners
             and
             Customs
             ,
             and
             in
             their
             solitary
             way
             of
             living
             ;
             tho'
             they
             find
             so
             much
             sweetness
             in
             the
             Freedom
             that
             prevails
             among
             us
             ,
             that
             they
             whose
             Husbands
             or
             Fathers
             have
             frequent
             Occasions
             to
             converse
             with
             Franks
             ,
             are
             easily
             dispos'd
             to
             renounce
             their
             wonted
             Severity
             .
             They
             are
             lovers
             of
             Pleasures
             ,
             Dancing
             ,
             and
             magnificent
             Habits
             ;
             and
             will
             fix
             a
             Passion
             upon
             a
             Man
             whether
             
             he
             will
             or
             not
             .
             But
             the
             poor
             Frank
             that
             suffers
             himself
             to
             be
             noos'd
             ,
             must
             resolve
             either
             to
             be
             Hen-peck'd
             ,
             or
             a
             Cuckold
             :
             He
             must
             adore
             his
             Graecian
             Spouse
             ;
             he
             must
             furnish
             her
             with
             the
             richest
             Habits
             ,
             and
             keep
             a
             numerous
             Train
             of
             Slaves
             to
             attend
             her
             ;
             or
             ,
             if
             any
             of
             these
             things
             be
             wanting
             ,
             
               '
               Ware
               Horns
            
             .
             For
             the
             Franks
             have
             an
             excellent
             Faculty
             at
             curing
             a
             handsome
             Lady
             of
             the
             grumbling
             Disease
             ,
             and
             are
             always
             ready
             to
             do
             a
             kind
             Office
             to
             a
             Country-man's
             Wife
             .
          
           
             The
             Greek
             Dances
             are
             extremely
             pleasant
             ,
             and
             full
             of
             Mirth
             .
             They
             are
             of
             two
             kinds
             :
             The
             first
             is
             a
             sort
             of
             Country-Dance
             or
             Couranto
             ,
             danc'd
             by
             Pairs
             ;
             and
             the
             second
             a
             kind
             of
             Gavote
             or
             Branle
             ,
             in
             which
             the
             Men
             and
             Women
             are
             mingl'd
             ,
             as
             at
             Passepied
             in
             France
             ;
             only
             you
             must
             hold
             in
             your
             right-hand
             the
             Left-hand
             of
             your
             Left-hand
             Woman
             ,
             and
             in
             your
             Left
             the
             Right-hand
             of
             he●
             that
             is
             on
             your
             Right-hand
             .
             The
             Man
             who
             lead●
             the
             Dance
             holds
             the
             Corner
             of
             a
             Handkerchi●●
             and
             gives
             the
             other
             to
             his
             Lady
             ,
             that
             he
             may
             hav●
             room
             enough
             to
             take
             his
             Measures
             ,
             and
             to
             giv●
             the
             Dance
             what
             Figure
             or
             Turn
             he
             pleases
             .
             A●
             first
             they
             begin
             very
             gravely
             with
             a
             
             Saraband-Ste●
             two
             Steps
             forwards
             and
             three
             backwards
             :
             The●
             mending
             their
             pace
             by
             degrees
             ,
             they
             begin
             to
             le●●
             and
             run
             ,
             yet
             still
             observing
             the
             Rules
             of
             a
             Harmo●
             nious
             Motion
             ;
             so
             that
             the
             Dance
             becomes
             very
             Gay
             and
             Amorous
             :
             For
             the
             Women
             leaping
             on●
             Step
             forwards
             ,
             draw
             their
             Bodies
             backwards
             with
             a
             certain
             pretty
             Turn
             that
             cannot
             be
             call'd
             immodest
             ,
             yet
             gives
             a
             Man
             occasion
             to
             think
             of
             something
             more
             than
             he
             sees
             .
             And
             besides
             ,
             the
             Musick
             contributes
             very
             much
             to
             the
             pleasantness
             of
             their
             Dances
             ,
             for
             their
             Tunes
             are
             extremely
             Brisk
             and
             Airy
             .
          
           
             
               The
               Dancing
               of
               the
               Greeks
               P.
               284
            
          
           
           
           
             The
             fittest
             time
             to
             take
             the
             pleasure
             of
             viewing
             their
             way
             of
             Dancing
             ,
             is
             when
             they
             are
             met
             at
             a
             Wedding
             ;
             for
             on
             such
             Occasions
             they
             give
             themselves
             up
             to
             Joy
             and
             Pleasure
             ,
             drinking
             ,
             eating
             ,
             and
             sporting
             ,
             and
             indulging
             themselves
             in
             all
             manner
             of
             Diversions
             .
             The
             next
             Morning
             the
             young
             Woman's
             Relations
             make
             a
             Visit
             to
             the
             new-marry'd
             Couple
             ,
             and
             examine
             the
             Bridegroom
             concerning
             his
             Wife's
             Virginity
             :
             Then
             they
             take
             the
             Bride
             's
             Bloody
             Smock
             ,
             and
             expose
             it
             to
             the
             View
             of
             all
             the
             Company
             ,
             as
             if
             it
             were
             some
             rare
             Curiosity
             .
             The
             Jews
             observe
             the
             same
             Custom
             at
             the
             Marriage
             of
             a
             Maid
             ,
             and
             are
             even
             nicer
             and
             more
             scrupulous
             in
             this
             Point
             than
             the
             Greeks
             ;
             for
             if
             the
             Bride's
             Honesty
             be
             not
             confirm'd
             by
             the
             Blood
             that
             appears
             on
             her
             Smock
             ,
             her
             Reputation
             is
             irrecoverably
             lost
             ,
             and
             she
             is
             immediately
             divorc'd
             from
             her
             Husband
             .
             They
             unanimously
             agree
             in
             believing
             that
             this
             is
             an
             infallible
             Mark
             of
             Virginity
             :
             And
             this
             Opinion
             is
             so
             generally
             receiv'd
             thro'
             all
             Asia
             and
             Africa
             ,
             that
             if
             a
             Man
             shou'd
             endeavour
             to
             contradict
             it
             ,
             he
             wou'd
             expose
             himself
             to
             the
             Laughter
             and
             Derision
             of
             all
             that
             shou'd
             hear
             him
             .
             The
             Italians
             are
             also
             persuaded
             of
             the
             Certainty
             of
             this
             Experiment
             ,
             tho'
             they
             abstain
             from
             making
             a
             Shew
             of
             the
             Bloody
             Smock
             ,
             for
             fear
             of
             exposing
             their
             own
             Shame
             ;
             but
             the
             Husband
             examines
             his
             Bride
             very
             narrowly
             ,
             and
             if
             he
             finds
             her
             not
             such
             as
             he
             expects
             and
             desires
             ,
             't
             is
             in
             vain
             for
             her
             to
             endeavour
             by
             the
             most
             solemn
             Protestations
             to
             convince
             him
             of
             her
             Innocency
             .
             Nevertheless
             this
             way
             of
             trying
             the
             Chastity
             of
             a
             Maid
             is
             esteem'd
             uncertain
             and
             ridiculous
             by
             the
             French
             ,
             and
             even
             by
             Chirurgeons
             ;
             nor
             can
             I
             reflect
             without
             a
             certain
             Wonder
             and
             Astonishment
             on
             this
             Diversity
             of
             Opinions
             concerning
             a
             Question
             that
             one
             wou'd
             think
             might
             have
             been
             fully
             decided
             by
             so
             many
             repeated
             Experiments
             ;
             
             for
             I
             see
             no
             reason
             to
             believe
             that
             our
             Country-Women
             are
             fram'd
             after
             another
             manner
             than
             the
             rest
             of
             their
             Sex.
             But
             leaving
             this
             Controversie
             to
             be
             decided
             by
             others
             who
             are
             better
             acquainted
             with
             the
             Works
             of
             Nature
             ,
             I
             shall
             proceed
             in
             the
             Account
             I
             promis'd
             to
             give
             you
             of
             the
             most
             remarkable
             Graecian
             Customs
             ,
             among
             which
             I
             cannot
             forbear
             taking
             notice
             of
             one
             that
             seems
             to
             be
             peculiar
             to
             this
             Nation
             .
             On
             Easter-Day
             ,
             and
             during
             the
             three
             following
             Weeks
             ,
             they
             salute
             one
             another
             with
             three
             Kisses
             ,
             one
             on
             the
             Mouth
             ,
             and
             one
             on
             each
             Cheek
             ,
             at
             the
             same
             time
             repeating
             these
             Words
             ,
             
               Christos
               anesti
            
             ,
             that
             is
             ,
             
               Christ
               is
               risen
            
             .
             At
             other
             times
             their
             familiar
             Salutation
             is
             the
             same
             with
             that
             which
             is
             us'd
             by
             the
             Turks
             :
             But
             when
             they
             design
             to
             shew
             a
             more
             than
             ordinary
             Respect
             to
             a
             Man
             ,
             they
             kiss
             his
             Hand
             ,
             and
             then
             lay
             it
             upon
             their
             Heads
             .
             They
             observe
             the
             same
             Custom
             when
             they
             receive
             a
             Present
             ,
             if
             it
             be
             not
             either
             too
             heavy
             or
             bulky
             :
             For
             this
             Ceremony
             of
             laying
             a
             Man's
             Hand
             upon
             their
             Head
             ,
             is
             a
             Mark
             both
             of
             their
             Respect
             and
             Gratitude
             .
             When
             a
             Woman
             accompanies
             her
             Husband
             in
             a
             Visit
             to
             a
             Person
             of
             Quality
             ,
             such
             as
             a
             Consul
             ,
             whether
             they
             come
             to
             treat
             of
             Bus'ness
             ,
             or
             only
             out
             of
             Civility
             ,
             she
             stands
             directly
             behind
             her
             Husband
             ;
             and
             when
             the
             Visiter
             brings
             his
             Daughters
             along
             with
             him
             ,
             they
             place
             themselves
             at
             one
             another's
             Back
             behind
             their
             Mother
             ;
             so
             that
             the
             Husband
             standing
             in
             the
             Front
             of
             the
             File
             ,
             hides
             all
             his
             Female
             Train
             ;
             and
             when
             they
             intend
             to
             go
             out
             ,
             they
             make
             a
             half-Turn
             to
             the
             Right
             ,
             and
             the
             Daughters
             march
             out
             first
             ,
             to
             avoid
             the
             Indecency
             of
             appearing
             in
             a
             Stranger
             's
             Presence
             .
          
           
             In
             pursuance
             of
             the
             Method
             I
             propos'd
             to
             follow
             ,
             I
             shall
             in
             the
             next
             place
             consider
             their
             Religion
             .
             I
             'm
             oblig'd
             to
             my
             Friend
             ,
             the
             Archbishop
             ,
             for
             the
             following
             Account
             ,
             which
             perhaps
             will
             
             give
             you
             a
             clearer
             Idea
             of
             this
             Subject
             than
             you
             can
             draw
             from
             the
             Relations
             of
             others
             .
             For
             there
             are
             some
             who
             pretend
             that
             the
             Greeks
             are
             only
             Schismaticks
             ,
             or
             bare
             Separatists
             from
             the
             Romish
             Church
             ;
             whereas
             others
             stretch
             the
             Point
             too
             far
             on
             the
             other
             side
             ,
             and
             make
             their
             Differences
             in
             matter
             of
             Doctrine
             appear
             greater
             and
             more
             irreconcilable
             than
             they
             really
             are
             .
          
           
             They
             acknowledge
             only
             One
             visible
             Church
             of
             God
             ,
             without
             which
             there
             is
             no
             Salvation
             ,
             unless
             in
             the
             Case
             of
             a
             sudden
             Conversion
             at
             the
             Hour
             of
             Death
             .
          
           
             They
             believe
             that
             the
             Apostles
             instituted
             five
             Patriarchs
             to
             govern
             the
             Church
             upon
             the
             Earth
             ,
             who
             were
             seated
             at
             
               Rome
               ,
               Alexandria
               ,
               Constantinople
               ,
               Antioch
               ,
            
             and
             Jerusalem
             ,
             and
             under
             them
             several
             Archbishops
             ,
             Bishops
             ,
             and
             inferiour
             Pastors
             .
             All
             the
             Members
             of
             this
             Hierarchy
             have
             a
             Right
             to
             exercise
             a
             Spiritual
             Jurisdiction
             over
             those
             that
             are
             subordinate
             to
             'em
             ,
             and
             to
             inflict
             Ecclesiastical
             Censures
             .
             But
             the
             Patriarchs
             can
             only
             admonish
             one
             another
             ,
             and
             can
             neither
             be
             punish'd
             nor
             depos'd
             for
             their
             Offences
             but
             by
             the
             Sentence
             of
             a
             General
             Council
             .
             Yet
             their
             Power
             does
             not
             extend
             so
             far
             as
             to
             enable
             'em
             to
             introduce
             new
             Laws
             into
             the
             Church
             ,
             and
             they
             wou'd
             be
             laught
             at
             if
             they
             shou'd
             attempt
             to
             grant
             Indulgencies
             .
             The
             Bishop
             of
             Rome
             is
             the
             first
             of
             the
             Patriarchs
             ;
             nor
             do
             any
             of
             the
             rest
             pretend
             to
             dispute
             with
             him
             for
             Precedency
             :
             But
             they
             refuse
             to
             submit
             to
             that
             absolute
             Power
             he
             has
             assum'd
             in
             the
             West
             ,
             by
             taking
             Advantage
             of
             the
             Superstition
             and
             Simplicity
             of
             the
             People
             ,
             and
             the
             Connivance
             of
             the
             Princes
             .
             'T
             is
             plain
             that
             the
             Greek
             Bishops
             had
             Reason
             to
             refuse
             their
             Consent
             to
             the
             Introduction
             and
             Establishment
             of
             a
             Tyrannical
             Power
             in
             the
             Church
             ,
             since
             they
             cou'd
             not
             but
             foresee
             that
             it
             wou'd
             produce
             very
             fatal
             and
             pernicious
             Consequences
             :
             And
             
             yet
             this
             is
             the
             only
             Cause
             that
             made
             the
             Pope
             discharge
             his
             Thunders
             against
             'em
             ,
             and
             declare
             'em
             Schismaticks
             ;
             thus
             violently
             breaking
             the
             sacred
             Union
             of
             the
             Church
             ,
             for
             the
             Preservation
             of
             which
             he
             ought
             to
             have
             spent
             the
             last
             Drop
             of
             his
             Blood.
             For
             this
             reason
             the
             Greeks
             are
             not
             contented
             with
             returning
             the
             Charge
             of
             Schism
             upon
             the
             Roman
             Church
             ,
             but
             pretend
             that
             they
             never
             actually
             separated
             from
             the
             Communion
             of
             Rome
             ,
             since
             they
             have
             not
             establish'd
             a
             
               Fifth
               Patriarch
            
             ,
             and
             still
             acknowledge
             the
             Pope
             to
             be
             the
             
               first
               Bishop
            
             in
             the
             World
             ,
             and
             that
             therefore
             they
             cannot
             with
             the
             least
             Shadow
             of
             Justice
             be
             blam'd
             for
             the
             Fault
             of
             another
             ,
             or
             said
             to
             separate
             from
             a
             Church
             which
             has
             violently
             driven
             'em
             out
             of
             her
             Communion
             .
             I
             know
             not
             whether
             this
             is
             the
             Opinion
             of
             the
             whole
             Greek
             Church
             ;
             tho'
             I
             cannot
             reasonably
             decline
             giving
             Credit
             to
             a
             Thing
             which
             I
             have
             heard
             so
             often
             confirm'd
             with
             repeated
             Protestations
             by
             the
             Archbishop
             of
             Smyrna
             ,
             who
             is
             esteem'd
             one
             of
             the
             most
             learned
             Doctors
             of
             that
             Church
             in
             this
             Age.
             However
             ,
             I
             took
             the
             Liberty
             to
             ask
             him
             why
             they
             did
             not
             send
             their
             Bishops
             to
             the
             last
             Councils
             that
             were
             held
             in
             the
             West
             ,
             in
             which
             all
             their
             Differences
             might
             have
             been
             amicably
             terminated
             .
             He
             reply'd
             ,
             that
             their
             Absence
             wou'd
             be
             easily
             excus'd
             by
             those
             who
             consider
             the
             Severity
             of
             the
             Yoak
             under
             which
             they
             groan
             ;
             and
             that
             the
             sending
             of
             Deputies
             to
             the
             Councils
             wou'd
             have
             given
             a
             terrible
             Umbrage
             to
             the
             
               Grand
               Signior
            
             ,
             who
             wou'd
             have
             been
             apt
             to
             suspect
             that
             these
             Bishops
             were
             sent
             to
             contrive
             a
             Rebellion
             against
             him
             ,
             and
             to
             plot
             the
             Ruine
             of
             his
             Empire
             ;
             and
             to
             deliver
             himself
             from
             the
             danger
             of
             a
             Revolt
             ,
             might
             have
             been
             easily
             persuaded
             to
             have
             put
             the
             whole
             Nation
             under
             Military
             Execution
             .
             This
             Answer
             seem'd
             so
             reasonable
             ,
             and
             agreeable
             to
             the
             Truth
             ,
             that
             I
             was
             oblig'd
             to
             acknowledge
             my self
             intirely
             satisfy'd
             .
             
             Thus
             I
             have
             given
             a
             short
             Account
             of
             the
             Occasion
             of
             the
             fatal
             Breach
             that
             divides
             the
             Eastern
             and
             Western
             Churches
             ,
             and
             of
             the
             Reasons
             alledg'd
             by
             the
             Greeks
             to
             free
             themselves
             of
             the
             Imputation
             of
             Schism
             .
             I
             shall
             in
             the
             next
             Place
             examine
             the
             Points
             of
             Doctrine
             in
             which
             they
             differ
             from
             the
             Romans
             .
          
           
             The
             Difference
             between
             these
             Churches
             may
             be
             reduc'd
             to
             five
             Articles
             ,
             of
             which
             only
             two
             are
             Fundamentals
             :
             For
             tho'
             the
             other
             three
             are
             of
             considerable
             Moment
             ,
             they
             wou'd
             not
             be
             sufficient
             to
             excuse
             a
             Separation
             .
             The
             first
             is
             the
             
               Procession
               of
               the
               Holy
               Ghost
            
             ,
             who
             in
             their
             Opinion
             proceeds
             not
             from
             the
             Son
             ,
             but
             only
             from
             the
             Father
             .
             To
             illustrate
             and
             confirm
             this
             Doctrine
             ,
             the
             Archbishop
             told
             me
             ,
             that
             the
             
               Three
               Persons
            
             of
             the
             Trinity
             were
             only
             distinguish'd
             by
             their
             different
             Operations
             and
             Attributes
             ;
             That
             the
             Property
             of
             the
             Father
             was
             to
             beget
             without
             being
             begotten
             ;
             That
             of
             the
             Son
             ,
             to
             be
             eternally
             begotten
             ,
             without
             begetting
             ;
             and
             that
             of
             the
             
               Holy
               Ghost
            
             to
             inspire
             and
             sanctifie
             our
             Hearts
             .
             I
             reply'd
             ,
             That
             it
             did
             not
             necessarily
             follow
             ,
             because
             the
             Son
             was
             begotten
             ,
             that
             he
             cou'd
             not
             co-operate
             with
             the
             Father
             in
             the
             
               Procession
               of
               the
               Holy
               Ghost
            
             :
             But
             he
             wou'd
             not
             acknowledge
             the
             force
             of
             this
             Reason
             ,
             pretending
             that
             we
             cou'd
             not
             ascribe
             to
             the
             Son
             the
             Attribute
             of
             Generation
             ,
             that
             belongs
             only
             to
             the
             Father
             ,
             without
             overturning
             the
             Order
             ,
             and
             confounding
             the
             Persons
             of
             the
             Trinity
             .
             Then
             he
             repeated
             what
             he
             had
             said
             before
             ,
             that
             the
             Persons
             were
             only
             distinguish'd
             by
             their
             Attributes
             ;
             f●om
             whence
             he
             concluded
             that
             the
             latter
             cou'd
             not
             be
             confounded
             without
             confounding
             the
             former
             .
             And
             for
             a
             farther
             Confirmation
             of
             his
             Opinion
             ,
             he
             shew'd
             me
             a
             large
             Volume
             of
             S.
             Athanasius
             ,
             printed
             at
             Venice
             ,
             with
             the
             Latin
             on
             one
             side
             ,
             and
             the
             Greek
             on
             the
             other
             ,
             and
             made
             me
             take
             Notice
             of
             two
             Passages
             ,
             which
             I
             
             transcrib'd
             ,
             but
             have
             unhappily
             lost
             the
             Paper
             .
             However
             ,
             tho'
             I
             cannot
             at
             present
             call
             to
             Mind
             the
             very
             Words
             of
             the
             Author
             .
             I
             remember
             that
             in
             the
             first
             Passage
             he
             spoke
             of
             the
             
               Holy
               Ghost's
            
             proceeding
             from
             the
             Father
             ,
             without
             mentioning
             the
             Son.
             I
             reply'd
             ,
             that
             the
             Question
             was
             not
             whether
             the
             
               Holy
               Ghost
            
             proceeded
             from
             the
             Father
             ;
             and
             that
             the
             Author
             whom
             he
             cited
             did
             not
             deny
             his
             Procession
             from
             the
             Son.
             But
             I
             was
             oblig'd
             to
             acknowledge
             that
             the
             same
             Answer
             wou'd
             not
             serve
             to
             elude
             the
             positive
             Authority
             of
             another
             Passage
             which
             he
             shew'd
             me
             in
             the
             
               Nicene
               Creed
            
             ,
             where
             't
             is
             expressly
             said
             ,
             
               à
               solo
               Patre
               procedens
            
             .
             Thus
             my
             Mouth
             was
             stopt
             on
             this
             Subject
             ,
             as
             well
             as
             on
             the
             former
             ;
             and
             I
             must
             leave
             the
             Decision
             of
             this
             Controversie
             to
             those
             whose
             Profession
             obliges
             'em
             to
             search
             into
             these
             Mysteries
             .
          
           
             The
             second
             difference
             between
             the
             Romish
             and
             Greek
             Churches
             ,
             is
             concerning
             the
             Doctrine
             of
             Purgatory
             ,
             which
             the
             latter
             expressly
             denies
             ,
             affirming
             ,
             with
             us
             ,
             that
             't
             is
             absolutely
             injurious
             to
             the
             Merit
             and
             Satisfaction
             of
             Christ
             :
             Yet
             they
             pretend
             there
             is
             a
             certain
             Baptismal
             Fire
             ,
             through
             which
             every
             one
             must
             pass
             before
             he
             can
             be
             admitted
             into
             Paradise
             .
             They
             believe
             that
             the
             Souls
             of
             Just
             Persons
             at
             their
             Separation
             from
             the
             Body
             ,
             go
             into
             a
             Third
             Place
             ,
             of
             the
             same
             Nature
             with
             the
             
               Romish
               Limbo's
            
             ,
             where
             they
             must
             remain
             till
             the
             Day
             of
             Judgment
             ,
             at
             which
             Time
             a
             sudden
             Fire
             shall
             dissolve
             the
             World
             in
             an
             Instant
             ,
             and
             purifie
             the
             Souls
             of
             the
             Righteous
             ,
             who
             after
             their
             final
             Judgment
             ,
             shall
             be
             receiv'd
             into
             everlasting
             Glory
             .
             To
             confirm
             this
             Doctrine
             ,
             they
             alledge
             that
             Passage
             of
             the
             Scripture
             which
             speaks
             of
             the
             Souls
             that
             
               rest
               under
               the
               Altar
            
             :
             But
             after
             all
             ,
             this
             Opinion
             seems
             not
             to
             be
             so
             well
             grounded
             as
             the
             former
             ;
             for
             if
             the
             Dead
             are
             not
             in
             a
             suffering
             Condition
             ,
             I
             know
             
             not
             what
             Reason
             they
             can
             give
             to
             justifie
             their
             praying
             for
             '
             em
             .
          
           
             The
             third
             Point
             is
             the
             
               Communion
               under
               both
               kinds
            
             :
             for
             they
             give
             the
             Sacrament
             to
             the
             People
             in
             a
             Spoon
             ,
             in
             which
             the
             Bread
             and
             Wine
             are
             mixt
             together
             .
          
           
             The
             Fourth
             is
             concerning
             
               Leaven'd
               Bread
            
             ,
             which
             they
             use
             in
             the
             Consecration
             of
             the
             Sacrament
             .
          
           
             The
             Fifth
             and
             last
             Point
             in
             which
             they
             differ
             from
             those
             of
             the
             Romish
             Persuasion
             is
             the
             
               Celibacy
               of
               the
               Clergy
            
             :
             For
             a
             simple
             Priest
             is
             allow'd
             to
             marry
             once
             ,
             but
             must
             never
             proceed
             to
             a
             second
             Marriage
             .
             The
             Priests
             wear
             the
             Violet-colour'd
             Habit
             of
             a
             Bishop
             ,
             and
             a
             Cap
             of
             the
             same
             Colour
             ,
             with
             a
             little
             blue
             Turbant
             ;
             and
             behind
             their
             Cap
             there
             hangs
             a
             piece
             of
             Cloth
             of
             the
             same
             Colour
             about
             half
             a
             Foot
             long
             and
             broad
             ,
             which
             falls
             back
             on
             their
             Shoulders
             .
             Besides
             these
             Priests
             ,
             there
             are
             certain
             Religious
             Persons
             under
             a
             Vow
             of
             Chastity
             ;
             and
             out
             of
             their
             Number
             the
             Bishops
             ,
             and
             even
             the
             Pastors
             ,
             are
             chosen
             ,
             whom
             they
             call
             Papa's
             :
             They
             eat
             no
             Flesh
             ,
             and
             wear
             long
             Hair
             ,
             without
             ever
             touching
             it
             with
             Scissors
             :
             They
             also
             suffer
             their
             Beards
             to
             grow
             without
             shaving
             or
             clipping
             'em
             ,
             which
             disfigures
             their
             Faces
             ,
             and
             makes
             'em
             seem
             very
             ugly
             .
             They
             wear
             a
             large
             black
             Gown
             or
             Robe
             ,
             not
             much
             different
             from
             our
             Night-Gowns
             ;
             only
             their
             Sleeves
             are
             wider
             ,
             and
             button'd
             before
             ;
             and
             the
             Neck
             is
             like
             that
             of
             a
             Cassock
             .
             Their
             Caps
             are
             made
             of
             Felt
             ,
             flat
             beneath
             like
             the
             Block
             of
             a
             Hat
             ,
             and
             wou'd
             be
             very
             deep
             ,
             if
             they
             were
             not
             cut
             before
             ;
             so
             that
             the
             whole
             Face
             appears
             ,
             but
             the
             Ears
             and
             hinder-part
             of
             the
             Head
             are
             cover'd
             .
             Over
             this
             they
             wear
             a
             Kerchief
             of
             black
             Serge
             ,
             which
             hangs
             over
             their
             Shoulders
             .
             This
             Habit
             is
             generally
             us'd
             by
             all
             religious
             Persons
             ,
             Pastors
             ,
             Bishops
             ,
             and
             Archbishops
             ,
             
             without
             any
             Mark
             of
             Distinction
             ;
             only
             the
             Bishops
             carry
             in
             their
             Hands
             a
             Pastoral
             Staff
             of
             Ebony
             ,
             eight
             Foot
             long
             ,
             with
             an
             Ivory
             Ball
             on
             the
             Top.
             The
             Bishops
             are
             not
             usually
             rich
             ,
             but
             they
             are
             no
             less
             respected
             by
             their
             Clergy
             than
             our
             French
             Prelates
             are
             by
             theirs
             .
             Their
             Churches
             are
             built
             after
             the
             manner
             of
             ours
             ,
             but
             without
             the
             least
             appearance
             of
             Pomp
             or
             Grandeur
             .
             They
             have
             a
             Quire
             where
             the
             Priests
             place
             themselves
             ,
             with
             those
             that
             come
             to
             confess
             ;
             and
             a
             Place
             for
             the
             Church-Wardens
             ,
             with
             a
             Crucifix
             ,
             or
             a
             Saint
             ,
             to
             which
             every
             one
             presents
             an
             Offering
             .
             The
             Bishops
             do
             not
             observe
             so
             much
             State
             as
             in
             France
             ;
             for
             my
             Curiosity
             having
             one
             Day
             carry'd
             me
             to
             see
             'em
             Officiate
             ,
             the
             Archbishop
             rose
             up
             to
             salute
             me
             ,
             and
             made
             me
             sit
             down
             by
             him
             on
             one
             of
             the
             Seats
             in
             the
             Quire
             ,
             whither
             a
             Priest
             conducted
             me
             by
             his
             Order
             ;
             after
             which
             they
             brought
             me
             some
             Frankincense
             ,
             as
             they
             do
             to
             all
             Persons
             of
             Note
             of
             their
             own
             Nation
             .
             Their
             Pontifical
             Habit
             is
             so
             singular
             and
             odly
             contriv'd
             ,
             that
             't
             wou'd
             be
             a
             hard
             Task
             to
             represent
             it
             distinctly
             ;
             and
             therefore
             I
             will
             neither
             undertake
             the
             Description
             of
             that
             ,
             nor
             of
             their
             Ceremonies
             and
             Rites
             of
             Worship
             .
             I
             shall
             only
             add
             ,
             that
             when
             they
             enter
             the
             Church
             ,
             they
             take
             some
             Holy-Water
             ,
             and
             make
             five
             large
             Signs
             of
             the
             Cross
             ,
             at
             each
             of
             which
             they
             make
             a
             very
             low
             Bow
             ,
             repeating
             the
             same
             Ceremony
             when
             they
             go
             out
             ,
             to
             commemorate
             the
             five
             Wounds
             of
             our
             Saviour
             .
          
           
             It
             has
             been
             so
             positively
             asserted
             by
             so
             many
             celebrated
             Divines
             ,
             that
             the
             Doctrine
             of
             Transubstantiation
             is
             not
             acknowledg'd
             by
             the
             Greek
             Church
             ,
             that
             I
             dare
             hardly
             venture
             to
             contradict
             '
             em
             .
             However
             ,
             since
             neither
             Interest
             not
             Authority
             ought
             to
             deterr
             us
             from
             owning
             the
             Truth
             ,
             I
             'm
             resolv'd
             at
             all
             Adventures
             to
             undeceive
             you
             of
             so
             vulgar
             an
             
             Error
             .
             'T
             is
             plain
             that
             the
             Authors
             of
             those
             Relations
             ,
             on
             whose
             Credit
             that
             Opinion
             is
             grounded
             ,
             were
             either
             deceiv'd
             themselves
             ,
             or
             intended
             to
             deceive
             their
             Readers
             ;
             unless
             perhaps
             to
             soften
             the
             harshness
             of
             that
             Censure
             you
             had
             rather
             believe
             that
             they
             speak
             of
             some
             obscure
             Sect
             ,
             which
             is
             not
             known
             in
             thi●
             Countrey
             :
             For
             I
             can
             assure
             you
             that
             the
             Greeks
             at
             Constantinople
             and
             Smyrna
             are
             as
             firmly
             perswaded
             of
             the
             truth
             of
             that
             Doctrine
             as
             the
             most
             zealous
             Romanists
             ;
             and
             the
             only
             reason
             why
             they
             do
             not
             kneel
             at
             the
             Elevation
             of
             the
             Host
             ,
             is
             because
             their
             manner
             of
             Adoration
             is
             different
             from
             ours
             .
             Nor
             do
             they
             worship
             the
             Sacrament
             less
             devoutly
             by
             bowing
             their
             Body
             ,
             and
             smiting
             their
             Breast
             ,
             tho'
             they
             stand
             all
             the
             while
             on
             their
             Feet
             ,
             than
             we
             do
             by
             prostrating
             our selves
             on
             the
             Ground
             ;
             and
             therefore
             we
             ought
             rather
             to
             consider
             the
             Intention
             of
             their
             Mind
             than
             the
             Posture
             of
             their
             Body
             .
             But
             this
             is
             not
             all
             ;
             for
             they
             have
             a
             Custom
             which
             may
             serve
             for
             a
             convincing
             Proof
             of
             their
             Belief
             of
             that
             Opinion
             .
             On
             Good-Friday
             they
             walk
             in
             Procession
             to
             the
             French
             Church
             ,
             to
             adore
             the
             Sacrament
             which
             is
             expos'd
             there
             ,
             and
             even
             pay
             five
             hundred
             Piasters
             to
             the
             Turks
             that
             they
             may
             be
             suffer'd
             to
             perform
             their
             Devotions
             there
             on
             that
             Occasion
             :
             So
             true
             it
             is
             that
             they
             are
             not
             willing
             to
             be
             separated
             from
             the
             Church
             of
             Rome
             .
             You
             may
             depend
             upon
             the
             Certainty
             of
             this
             Story
             ;
             for
             I
             can
             assure
             you
             of
             the
             Truth
             of
             it
             on
             the
             Faith
             of
             an
             Eye-Witness
             .
          
           
             They
             have
             a
             great
             Number
             of
             Images
             ;
             and
             their
             Devotion
             to
             'em
             is
             not
             at
             all
             inferior
             to
             that
             which
             prevails
             in
             the
             Church
             of
             Rome
             .
             But
             I
             must
             confess
             there
             is
             a
             great
             Difference
             in
             the
             Structure
             and
             Workmanship
             of
             the
             Images
             ;
             for
             whereas
             in
             our
             Country
             they
             may
             ,
             for
             the
             most
             part
             ,
             be
             reckon'd
             so
             many
             Master-pieces
             of
             Art
             ,
             whether
             we
             consider
             the
             Regularity
             of
             the
             Design
             ,
             the
             Disposition
             
             of
             the
             Lights
             and
             Shades
             ,
             or
             the
             Beauty
             of
             the
             Colours
             .
             The
             Greeks
             are
             of
             Opinion
             ,
             and
             scruple
             not
             to
             say
             ,
             that
             the
             Pictures
             of
             the
             Saints
             ,
             as
             they
             are
             represented
             in
             the
             Roman
             Churches
             are
             more
             proper
             to
             raise
             Criminal
             Desires
             ,
             than
             to
             inspire
             the
             Minds
             of
             the
             Spectators
             with
             Devotion
             .
             And
             therefore
             to
             avoid
             the
             dangerous
             Consequences
             of
             that
             Abuse
             ,
             they
             confine
             themselves
             to
             a
             certain
             Antick
             way
             of
             Painting
             ,
             which
             is
             extremely
             unnatural
             ,
             especially
             in
             their
             Figures
             of
             Virgins
             ,
             who
             are
             almost
             all
             represented
             black
             ,
             and
             so
             muffled
             up
             in
             Kerchiefs
             and
             Gowns
             ,
             that
             you
             can
             scarce
             distinguish
             their
             Faces
             .
             And
             their
             Painters
             are
             so
             ignorant
             ,
             and
             so
             little
             acquainted
             with
             the
             Beauties
             of
             the
             Art
             they
             profess
             ,
             that
             they
             cannot
             so
             much
             as
             copy
             a
             Head.
             Nor
             am
             I
             at
             all
             surpriz'd
             at
             the
             Unskillfulness
             of
             these
             pretended
             Artists
             ;
             for
             their
             Method
             is
             directly
             opposite
             to
             that
             of
             our
             Painters
             :
             First
             they
             lay
             on
             the
             Shades
             ,
             and
             design
             the
             entire
             Figure
             ,
             after
             which
             they
             proceed
             to
             the
             Disposition
             of
             the
             Light
             ;
             which
             is
             the
             most
             preposterous
             Method
             cou'd
             be
             imagin'd
             .
          
           
             The
             Armenians
             are
             not
             so
             scrupulous
             in
             this
             Point
             ,
             tho'
             they
             profess
             almost
             the
             same
             Articles
             of
             Faith
             ;
             for
             they
             make
             use
             of
             the
             modern
             way
             of
             Painting
             ;
             and
             there
             is
             at
             present
             on
             their
             High
             Altar
             an
             Image
             of
             the
             Virgin
             ,
             made
             by
             a
             French-man
             ,
             which
             shews
             so
             much
             of
             her
             Breasts
             that
             I
             shou'd
             be
             almost
             Jealous
             if
             my
             Mistress
             were
             painted
             after
             that
             Manner
             .
             Nevertheless
             you
             must
             not
             suspect
             them
             of
             Libertinism
             ;
             for
             I
             never
             heard
             of
             any
             Religious
             Order
             ,
             except
             the
             Monks
             of
             Trape
             ,
             that
             observe
             such
             mortifying
             Fasts
             .
             They
             keep
             four
             Lents
             ,
             which
             lasts
             one
             half
             of
             the
             Year
             ,
             like
             those
             that
             are
             observ'd
             by
             the
             
               Greeks
               :
            
             .
             But
             the
             Armen●●ns
             do
             not
             allow
             themselves
             so
             much
             Liberty
             as
             the
             〈◊〉
             of
             their
             Fellow
             Christians
             ;
             for
             they
             abstain
             from
             eating
             Flesh
             ,
             Fish
             ,
             and
             even
             Shell-Fish
             ,
             Butter
             ,
             
             Milk
             ,
             Cheese
             ,
             and
             every
             thing
             that
             has
             or
             ever
             had
             Life
             ;
             which
             may
             be
             justly
             reckon'd
             a
             very
             severe
             piece
             of
             Mortification
             .
             Their
             Bishop
             has
             put
             himself
             under
             the
             Protection
             of
             France
             ,
             to
             deliver
             himself
             from
             the
             insupportable
             Exactions
             of
             the
             Turks
             ;
             and
             't
             is
             but
             a
             very
             little
             while
             ago
             since
             he
             was
             freed
             from
             Prison
             ,
             where
             he
             had
             lain
             six
             Months
             .
             He
             is
             a
             very
             honest
             and
             civil
             Person
             ,
             and
             diligent
             in
             performing
             the
             Duties
             of
             his
             Function
             .
             His
             Habit
             is
             almost
             the
             same
             with
             that
             of
             the
             Greek
             Bishop
             ,
             only
             he
             wears
             a
             Hood
             or
             Cawle
             at
             the
             Neck
             of
             his
             Gown
             ,
             and
             carries
             in
             his
             Hand
             a
             Cross
             ,
             like
             that
             which
             is
             us'd
             by
             the
             Roman
             Bishops
             ,
             only
             't
             is
             made
             of
             Wood.
             This
             puts
             me
             in
             Mind
             of
             what
             a
             certain
             Author
             said
             concerning
             the
             Ancients
             ,
             That
             they
             were
             
               Golden
               Bishops
            
             tho'
             they
             wore
             
               Wooden
               Crosses
            
             ;
             and
             I
             may
             safely
             venture
             to
             apply
             that
             Saying
             to
             this
             Prelate
             .
          
           
             To
             return
             to
             the
             Greeks
             ;
             I
             had
             almost
             forgot
             to
             take
             Notice
             of
             one
             of
             their
             Opinions
             in
             which
             they
             differ
             from
             those
             of
             the
             Romish
             Persuasion
             .
             You
             have
             doubtless
             observ'd
             that
             the
             Romanists
             have
             an
             extreme
             Veneration
             for
             those
             Persons
             whose
             Bodies
             remain
             free
             from
             Putrefaction
             after
             their
             Death
             ;
             and
             that
             the
             Incorruption
             of
             the
             Body
             is
             reckon'd
             a
             convincing
             Mark
             of
             the
             Holiness
             of
             the
             Deceas'd
             ,
             and
             is
             one
             of
             the
             most
             considerable
             Proofs
             that
             can
             be
             offer'd
             for
             the
             Canonization
             of
             the
             Saint
             ;
             whereas
             the
             Greeks
             pretend
             that
             't
             is
             only
             an
             Effect
             of
             Excommunication
             ;
             and
             when
             they
             find
             a
             Body
             in
             that
             Condition
             ,
             they
             never
             leave
             praying
             for
             the
             Soul
             of
             the
             dead
             Person
             ,
             till
             his
             Body
             be
             putrefy'd
             and
             corrupted
             .
          
           
             The
             Interrment
             of
             dead
             Bodies
             is
             perform'd
             with
             almost
             the
             same
             Ceremonies
             that
             are
             observ'd
             in
             the
             Church
             of
             Rome
             .
             All
             the
             Clergy
             meet
             together
             ,
             and
             sing
             the
             
               de
               profundis
            
             ,
             and
             Prayers
             for
             the
             Soul
             of
             the
             Deceas'd
             .
             Several
             Persons
             march
             before
             
             with
             lighted
             Candles
             ,
             after
             whom
             the
             Body
             is
             carry'd
             in
             an
             open
             Coffin
             ,
             drest
             in
             its
             finest
             Clothes
             ,
             with
             a
             little
             Cotton
             in
             its
             Mouth
             ;
             so
             that
             oftentimes
             the
             Person
             seems
             to
             be
             alive
             .
             Then
             comes
             the
             Husband
             or
             Wife
             ,
             accompany'd
             with
             the
             Children
             and
             Slaves
             of
             the
             Deceas'd
             ,
             all
             bellowing
             out
             their
             Grief
             in
             so
             dismal
             and
             terrible
             a
             Manner
             ,
             that
             one
             wou'd
             conclude
             they
             thought
             themselves
             irrecoverably
             ruin'd
             .
             The
             Women
             especially
             signalize
             their
             Love
             by
             all
             the
             wildest
             Marks
             of
             Despair
             ,
             tossing
             their
             Bodies
             so
             furiously
             from
             side
             to
             side
             ,
             that
             they
             wou'd
             certainly
             break
             their
             Necks
             if
             they
             were
             not
             supported
             by
             two
             Persons
             who
             are
             appointed
             to
             attend
             '
             em
             .
             Their
             usual
             Song
             is
             
               Hai
               agamimont
               ,
               hai
               mathiamont
               ;
               Ab
               my
               Eyes
               !
               ah
               my
               Love
               !
            
             And
             the
             Slaves
             echo
             back
             the
             howling
             Musick
             with
             so
             hideous
             a
             Noise
             ,
             that
             one
             wou'd
             think
             they
             design'd
             to
             scare
             the
             Devil
             .
             Those
             who
             have
             not
             a
             sufficient
             Number
             of
             Slaves
             to
             make
             a
             Noise
             sutable
             to
             the
             Quality
             of
             the
             Deceas'd
             ,
             may
             supply
             that
             Defect
             by
             hiring
             Weeping-Women
             ,
             who
             for
             an
             Jsallote
             ,
             which
             is
             worth
             about
             forty
             Pence
             ,
             howl
             and
             cry
             ,
             as
             if
             they
             were
             acted
             by
             the
             most
             furious
             Transports
             of
             Rage
             and
             Despair
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             the
             Frace
             is
             too
             gross
             and
             visible
             ;
             for
             there
             is
             something
             so
             moving
             in
             true
             Sorrow
             that
             it
             can
             never
             be
             counterfeited
             ;
             neither
             is
             it
             possible
             for
             the
             most
             dextrous
             Mimick
             to
             imitate
             the
             tender
             Motions
             of
             Nature
             .
             And
             even
             when
             those
             pretended
             Mourners
             seem
             to
             be
             transported
             with
             Fury
             and
             Despair
             ,
             running
             about
             like
             Mad-Women
             ,
             with
             dishevell'd
             Hair
             ,
             the
             Artifice
             is
             easily
             discernible
             .
             And
             particularly
             I
             observ'd
             ,
             that
             when
             they
             pretend
             to
             tear
             their
             Hair
             ,
             they
             hold
             it
             fast
             with
             one
             Hand
             near
             the
             Roots
             ,
             and
             then
             pull
             as
             hard
             as
             they
             can
             with
             the
             other
             .
             To
             co●clude
             ,
             an
             unconcern'd
             Spectator
             wou'd
             be
             tempted
             to
             imagine
             that
             all
             this
             Mummery
             
             is
             acted
             in
             derision
             to
             the
             deceas'd
             ;
             for
             as
             soon
             as
             he
             is
             interr'd
             ,
             they
             make
             a
             Feast
             on
             his
             Grave
             at
             his
             own
             Charge
             ;
             and
             his
             Wife
             and
             Children
             take
             care
             that
             nothing
             be
             wanting
             to
             the
             Company
             ,
             who
             eat
             and
             drink
             and
             laugh
             ,
             as
             if
             they
             were
             carousing
             in
             a
             Tipling
             House
             .
             This
             is
             certainly
             a
             very
             extravagant
             way
             of
             expressing
             their
             Affection
             to
             their
             dead
             Friends
             ;
             nor
             cou'd
             they
             treat
             a
             Man
             worse
             whose
             Memory
             they
             design'd
             to
             affront
             .
             I
             have
             also
             had
             occasion
             to
             see
             the
             Funeral
             Solemnities
             of
             the
             Jews
             ,
             which
             in
             my
             Opinion
             are
             less
             inconsistent
             with
             the
             Rules
             of
             Decency
             ;
             for
             tho'
             they
             use
             those
             Affected
             Howlings
             as
             well
             as
             the
             Greeks
             ,
             their
             Design
             is
             to
             Mourn
             and
             not
             to
             Feast
             .
             Among
             the
             Ceremonies
             that
             are
             us'd
             by
             the
             Iews
             at
             the
             Death
             of
             their
             Relations
             ,
             I
             took
             notice
             of
             one
             which
             seems
             to
             be
             very
             Troublesome
             and
             Inconvenient
             ,
             I
             mean
             their
             keeping
             of
             the
             Dead
             Body
             Three
             Days
             unbury'd
             :
             And
             I
             leave
             you
             to
             judge
             what
             a
             sad
             Companion
             that
             must
             be
             to
             the
             Widow
             and
             Children
             ,
             who
             are
             oblig'd
             to
             weep
             without
             Intermission
             till
             the
             Body
             be
             interr'd
             .
          
           
             Since
             the
             Description
             of
             the
             Greekish
             Funerals
             has
             given
             me
             an
             Occasion
             to
             mention
             the
             Jews
             ,
             I
             shall
             conclude
             this
             Letter
             with
             a
             brief
             Account
             of
             that
             Nation
             .
             '
             Twou'd
             be
             needless
             to
             entertain
             you
             with
             an
             Abridgement
             of
             their
             Ancient
             History
             ,
             and
             therefore
             I
             shall
             only
             observe
             ,
             that
             after
             the
             Romans
             became
             Masters
             of
             Palestine
             ,
             these
             unhappy
             Fugitives
             were
             dispers'd
             ,
             and
             scatter'd
             thro'
             the
             whole
             World
             ,
             and
             have
             liv'd
             ever
             since
             like
             hated
             Vagabonds
             ,
             without
             King
             or
             Head
             ,
             expecting
             the
             Messiah
             with
             an
             Impatience
             that
             has
             frequently
             made
             'em
             give
             Credit
             to
             Impostors
             .
             About
             Thirty
             Years
             ago
             there
             arose
             a
             false
             Prophet
             or
             Messiah
             in
             this
             Country
             ,
             call'd
             
               Sabatai
               Sevi
            
             ,
             who
             was
             very
             learned
             ,
             and
             had
             diligently
             study'd
             the
             Cabala
             ,
             by
             which
             means
             ,
             't
             was
             thought
             ,
             he
             came
             
             to
             the
             Knowledge
             of
             certain
             Magical
             Secrets
             ,
             which
             he
             afterwards
             made
             Use
             of
             to
             abuse
             the
             Credulity
             of
             his
             Followers
             .
             I
             have
             heard
             a
             Thousand
             Stories
             of
             him
             ,
             but
             shall
             content
             my self
             with
             telling
             you
             that
             he
             manag'd
             the
             Cheat
             with
             so
             much
             De●terity
             and
             Success
             ,
             that
             he
             was
             follow'd
             by
             a
             great
             Multitude
             of
             People
             ,
             and
             began
             to
             exercise
             so
             great
             an
             Authority
             over
             the
             Jews
             ,
             that
             the
             
               Grand
               Signior
            
             himself
             ,
             growing
             jealous
             of
             his
             Power
             and
             Credit
             ,
             order'd
             him
             to
             be
             apprehended
             ,
             and
             brought
             in
             Chains
             to
             Constantinople
             ,
             where
             this
             pretended
             Messiah
             turn'd
             Turk
             to
             save
             his
             Life
             .
             The
             Scandal
             of
             this
             Example
             ,
             which
             ought
             to
             have
             taught
             the
             Jews
             more
             Caution
             for
             the
             future
             ,
             cou'd
             not
             keep
             'em
             from
             falling
             not
             long
             after
             into
             another
             Error
             of
             the
             same
             Nature
             .
             You
             must
             know
             that
             during
             the
             
               Feast
               of
               Tabernacles
            
             ,
             the
             young
             Women
             of
             that
             Nation
             are
             oblig'd
             to
             lie
             abroad
             under
             Tents
             in
             a
             place
             appointed
             for
             that
             purpose
             ;
             and
             they
             have
             an
             old
             Tradition
             that
             the
             Messiah
             shall
             be
             conceiv'd
             in
             the
             Womb
             of
             a
             Virgin
             during
             that
             Festival
             .
             Now
             it
             happen'd
             that
             a
             certain
             Maid
             ,
             who
             it
             seems
             was
             weary
             of
             that
             Denomination
             ,
             resolv'd
             to
             make
             use
             of
             so
             favourable
             an
             Opportunity
             of
             tasting
             the
             
               forbidden
               Delight
            
             ,
             and
             to
             conceal
             her
             Fault
             ,
             spread
             abroad
             a
             Report
             that
             God
             came
             to
             visit
             her
             every
             Night
             ,
             and
             that
             she
             was
             to
             be
             the
             Mother
             of
             the
             Messiah
             .
             These
             acceptable
             News
             were
             receiv'd
             with
             Joy
             by
             the
             whole
             Synagogue
             ,
             who
             appointed
             several
             Days
             of
             Solemn
             Thanksgiving
             to
             be
             kept
             with
             all
             imaginable
             Secresie
             ,
             for
             fear
             of
             offending
             the
             Turks
             .
             But
             their
             Joy
             was
             at
             last
             turn'd
             into
             Shame
             and
             Confusion
             ,
             when
             instead
             of
             their
             expected
             Deliverer
             ,
             the
             pretended
             Virgin
             was
             brought
             to
             B●d
             of
             a
             Daughter
             .
          
           
           
             The
             
               Levantine
               Jews
            
             are
             extremely
             Cunning
             and
             Deceitful
             ,
             and
             so
             dextrous
             in
             the
             Art
             of
             Wheedling
             ,
             that
             those
             who
             deal
             with
             'em
             ought
             to
             be
             always
             upon
             their
             Guard.
             Cheating
             is
             the
             Trade
             by
             which
             they
             live
             ,
             as
             others
             do
             by
             Labour
             or
             Traffick
             ;
             and
             't
             is
             usually
             said
             here
             ,
             that
             a
             Jew
             never
             eats
             his
             Breakfast
             till
             he
             has
             cheated
             a
             Christian
             .
             However
             ,
             't
             is
             certain
             that
             he
             who
             trusts
             'em
             must
             either
             betray
             his
             Ignorance
             or
             Imprudence
             ;
             for
             by
             a
             modest
             Computation
             ,
             I
             may
             venture
             to
             assure
             you
             ,
             that
             among
             
               Twenty
               Jews
            
             there
             are
             always
             
               Nineteen
               Knaves
            
             .
             There
             cannot
             be
             a
             more
             convincing
             Argument
             to
             prove
             that
             Religion
             is
             not
             always
             attended
             with
             Honesty
             ;
             for
             if
             it
             were
             ,
             the
             Jews
             wou'd
             be
             the
             honestest
             Men
             in
             the
             World.
             They
             observe
             the
             Precepts
             of
             their
             Law
             with
             an
             incredible
             exactness
             ;
             and
             wou'd
             not
             do
             the
             least
             Work
             on
             the
             Sabbath
             to
             prevent
             the
             Ruine
             of
             the
             Universe
             .
             'T
             is
             not
             yet
             a
             Fortnight
             since
             we
             had
             an
             eminent
             Instance
             of
             the
             Power
             of
             Superstition
             ,
             on
             occasion
             of
             a
             Fire
             which
             broke
             forth
             in
             the
             Jews
             Quarter
             in
             this
             City
             on
             the
             Sabbath
             Day
             ;
             for
             they
             suffer'd
             it
             to
             consume
             their
             Houses
             without
             endeavouring
             to
             quench
             it
             ;
             and
             one
             among
             the
             rest
             seeing
             his
             Child
             just
             ready
             to
             be
             devour'd
             by
             the
             Flames
             ,
             contented
             himself
             with
             tearing
             his
             Hair
             ,
             instead
             of
             breaking
             the
             Window
             of
             his
             House
             ,
             tho'
             there
             was
             no
             other
             Way
             to
             save
             the
             Life
             of
             his
             miserable
             Infant
             ,
             which
             wou'd
             have
             been
             certainly
             burnt
             alive
             ,
             if
             it
             had
             not
             been
             seasonably
             rescu'd
             by
             some
             Greeks
             ,
             whose
             Compassion
             drew
             'em
             to
             its
             Assistance
             .
             This
             Fire
             made
             a
             prodigious
             Havock
             ,
             for
             it
             destroy'd
             above
             a
             Hundred
             Houses
             ,
             in
             the
             greatest
             part
             of
             which
             there
             were
             Warehouses
             .
          
           
             The
             Jews
             are
             no
             less
             jealous
             of
             their
             Wives
             than
             the
             Turks
             ,
             and
             are
             very
             careful
             in
             keeping
             'em
             under
             a
             close
             Confinement
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             they
             are
             
             permitted
             to
             see
             and
             visit
             one
             another
             ;
             but
             if
             a
             Woman
             shou'd
             walk
             a
             Quarter
             of
             a
             League
             out
             of
             the
             City
             without
             her
             Husband
             or
             Brother
             ,
             she
             wou'd
             infallibly
             be
             divorc'd
             .
          
           
             They
             wear
             a
             large
             Gown
             of
             black
             Cloth
             ,
             made
             almost
             like
             that
             of
             the
             Papa's
             ;
             and
             their
             Shooes
             are
             of
             a
             Violet
             Colour
             .
             Their
             Caps
             are
             of
             Felt
             ,
             cover'd
             with
             Violet-colour'd
             Cloth
             ,
             and
             resemble
             a
             long
             Block
             of
             a
             Hat.
             Round
             their
             Caps
             they
             tye
             a
             small
             strip'd
             or
             Violet-colour'd
             Turbant
             ,
             which
             they
             call
             a
             Tandour
             .
             They
             are
             oblig'd
             to
             pay
             the
             Carache
             as
             well
             as
             the
             Greeks
             ,
             and
             are
             treated
             with
             more
             scorn
             and
             Contempt
             :
             But
             they
             are
             naturally
             of
             so
             intrigueing
             a
             Temper
             ,
             that
             they
             thrust
             themselves
             into
             all
             sorts
             to
             Bus'ness
             ,
             and
             are
             at
             present
             the
             only
             Managers
             of
             Trade
             ;
             for
             there
             are
             no
             other
             Brokers
             in
             the
             Levant
             .
          
           
             I
             know
             not
             whether
             you
             will
             complain
             of
             the
             unusual
             Length
             of
             this
             Letter
             ;
             but
             I
             can
             assure
             you
             that
             the
             writing
             of
             it
             has
             fatigu'd
             me
             so
             extremely
             ,
             that
             ,
             tho'
             I
             had
             not
             finish'd
             my
             Subject
             ,
             I
             shou'd
             have
             been
             forc'd
             to
             break
             off
             abruptly
             .
          
           
             
               I
               am
            
             ,
             
               SIR
               ,
            
             
               Your
               ,
               &c.
               
            
             
               Smyrna
               ,
               
                 July
                 ,
                 1692.
                 
              
            
          
        
         
           
           
             LETTER
             XXIII
             .
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
          
           
             JUst
             now
             I
             'm
             inform'd
             that
             five
             Barbary
             Vessels
             anchor'd
             this
             Morning
             at
             Fosche
             ,
             which
             is
             a
             little
             Harbour
             at
             the
             Mouth
             of
             the
             Gulph
             .
             If
             this
             be
             true
             ,
             we
             must
             expect
             to
             see
             the
             Streets
             always
             full
             of
             those
             insolent
             Scoundrels
             ,
             from
             whom
             the
             Franks
             receive
             a
             Visit
             once
             every
             Year
             ,
             tho'
             they
             wou'd
             gladly
             dispence
             with
             so
             troublesome
             a
             piece
             of
             Civility
             .
             I
             have
             not
             yet
             had
             Experience
             of
             their
             Deportment
             ;
             but
             the
             Accounts
             I
             have
             receiv'd
             from
             others
             have
             extremely
             abated
             my
             natural
             Curiosity
             to
             be
             acquainted
             with
             the
             Customs
             of
             Strangers
             :
             And
             I
             had
             much
             rather
             hear
             a
             Description
             than
             be
             an
             Eye-Witness
             of
             the
             Disorders
             they
             committed
             in
             this
             City
             ,
             which
             are
             still
             so
             fresh
             in
             the
             Memory
             of
             the
             People
             ,
             that
             they
             hardly
             talk
             of
             any
             thing
             else
             .
             I
             know
             not
             whether
             you
             cou'd
             hear
             without
             Disturbance
             a
             Relalation
             of
             those
             Abuses
             ,
             if
             you
             were
             in
             a
             place
             where
             you
             might
             shortly
             expect
             to
             see
             'em
             repeated
             :
             But
             since
             you
             are
             at
             so
             great
             a
             Distance
             from
             the
             Scene
             of
             the
             Tragedy
             ,
             you
             may
             venture
             to
             read
             it
             without
             fearing
             to
             be
             made
             a
             Spectator
             of
             it
             :
             And
             besides
             ,
             there
             can
             be
             nothing
             more
             proper
             to
             give
             you
             a
             clear
             Idea
             of
             the
             Weakness
             of
             the
             Turkish
             Government
             .
          
           
             About
             a
             Year
             ago
             the
             same
             Barbary
             Ships
             touch'd
             at
             the
             Port
             where
             they
             have
             now
             cast
             Anchor
             ,
             which
             is
             only
             four
             or
             five
             Leagues
             distant
             from
             this
             place
             ;
             and
             since
             these
             Sea-Monsters
             are
             not
             restrain'd
             by
             the
             least
             shadow
             of
             Discipline
             ,
             one
             half
             of
             'em
             was
             perpetually
             in
             the
             City
             .
             These
             pretended
             
             Soldiers
             are
             a
             meer
             Rabble
             of
             Murderers
             ,
             Robbers
             ,
             and
             the
             most
             desperate
             Villains
             ,
             who
             ,
             to
             avoid
             the
             just
             Punishment
             of
             their
             Crimes
             ,
             flock
             from
             all
             parts
             of
             Africk
             to
             the
             Sea-Coast
             ,
             where
             they
             find
             on
             board
             the
             Ships
             ,
             a
             Sanctuary
             that
             secures
             'em
             from
             being
             made
             accountable
             for
             their
             past
             Offences
             ,
             and
             are
             at
             the
             same
             time
             privileg'd
             to
             re-act
             their
             former
             Barbarities
             without
             controul
             ;
             so
             that
             they
             are
             equally
             dreaded
             by
             the
             
               Turks
               ,
               Greeks
            
             ,
             and
             Franks
             ,
             tho'
             the
             Storm
             falls
             heaviest
             upon
             the
             last
             ,
             especially
             since
             the
             Bombarding
             of
             Algiers
             ,
             which
             has
             inspir'd
             'em
             with
             a
             horrible
             Aversion
             against
             the
             French
             ,
             and
             against
             all
             other
             Franks
             for
             their
             sake
             .
          
           
             Two
             or
             three
             Days
             after
             their
             Landing
             ,
             two
             of
             'em
             drinking
             in
             a
             Tipling-House
             pick'd
             a
             Quarrel
             with
             a
             Frenchman
             ,
             who
             seeing
             'em
             advance
             towards
             him
             with
             naked
             Poniards
             ,
             discharg'd
             his
             Pistol
             at
             'em
             ,
             and
             then
             made
             his
             Escape
             .
             Immediately
             the
             two
             Barbarianss
             one
             of
             whom
             had
             receiv'd
             a
             slight
             Wound
             by
             the
             Shot
             ,
             being
             reinforc'd
             by
             some
             of
             their
             Fellows
             ,
             ran
             thro'
             the
             Streets
             ,
             swearing
             like
             enrag'd
             Furies
             ,
             and
             threatning
             to
             murder
             all
             the
             French
             without
             exception
             .
             In
             the
             Heat
             of
             their
             Rage
             they
             met
             three
             Mariners
             of
             Provence
             coming
             out
             of
             a
             Barber's
             Shop
             ,
             whom
             they
             instantly
             assaulted
             ,
             and
             dragg'd
             by
             the
             Hair
             along
             the
             Street
             to
             the
             Bazar
             ,
             where
             they
             butcher'd
             'em
             with
             their
             Poniards
             in
             a
             most
             barbarous
             manner
             .
             The
             
               French
               Consul
            
             being
             alarm'd
             at
             the
             News
             ,
             commanded
             those
             of
             his
             Nation
             to
             keep
             within
             Doors
             all
             that
             Day
             ,
             and
             sent
             for
             Soldiers
             and
             Arms
             from
             on
             board
             the
             Ships
             that
             were
             in
             the
             Port
             ,
             to
             secure
             him
             from
             the
             Insolency
             of
             the
             incens'd
             Rabble
             .
             Next
             Morning
             he
             order'd
             forty
             Men
             ,
             arm'd
             with
             Carabines
             and
             Pistols
             ,
             to
             bring
             off
             the
             Bodies
             of
             the
             three
             Seamen
             that
             had
             lain
             all
             the
             while
             in
             the
             Street
             .
             As
             soon
             as
             the
             Barbaria●s
             
             heard
             of
             their
             Design
             ,
             they
             resolv'd
             to
             oppose
             the
             Execution
             of
             it
             ;
             but
             since
             they
             had
             no
             Fire-Arms
             ,
             and
             are
             extremely
             afraid
             of
             Shot
             ,
             they
             fled
             after
             the
             first
             Discharge
             ,
             and
             left
             the
             Bodies
             to
             the
             French
             ,
             who
             carry'd
             'em
             off
             without
             any
             Opposition
             .
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             the
             Consul
             had
             sent
             a
             Message
             to
             the
             other
             two
             Consuls
             of
             England
             and
             Holland
             ,
             to
             beg
             their
             Assistance
             in
             the
             Common
             Cause
             of
             the
             Three
             Nations
             :
             But
             these
             Gentlemen
             did
             not
             think
             fit
             to
             irritate
             an
             enrag'd
             Mobb
             that
             had
             not
             positively
             declar'd
             against
             any
             other
             Nation
             but
             the
             French.
             And
             it
             appear'd
             by
             the
             Event
             ,
             that
             they
             acted
             wisely
             in
             so
             nice
             a
             Juncture
             ;
             for
             the
             Neutrality
             they
             observ'd
             ,
             and
             the
             Care
             they
             took
             not
             to
             kindle
             the
             Fury
             of
             the
             Barbarians
             by
             appearing
             too
             much
             in
             the
             Streets
             ,
             had
             so
             good
             an
             Effect
             ,
             that
             the
             English
             and
             Dutch
             receiv'd
             not
             the
             least
             Injury
             during
             the
             Tumult
             ,
             except
             some
             affronting
             Words
             .
             The
             
               French
               Consul
            
             being
             disappointed
             of
             the
             Assistance
             he
             expected
             from
             the
             two
             Nations
             ,
             and
             not
             knowing
             to
             what
             Saint
             he
             shou'd
             make
             h●s
             next
             Address
             ,
             resolv'd
             at
             last
             to
             demand
             Protection
             from
             the
             Cadi
             .
             Immediately
             he
             sent
             two
             Merchants
             ,
             and
             as
             many
             Interpreters
             to
             complain
             to
             that
             Officer
             of
             the
             Injuries
             he
             had
             receiv'd
             from
             the
             Barbarians
             ,
             and
             to
             assure
             him
             that
             if
             the
             Tumult
             were
             not
             quickly
             appeas'd
             ,
             he
             wou●d
             seek
             Redress
             at
             the
             Port
             ,
             and
             in
             the
             mean
             time
             wou'd
             Arm
             those
             of
             his
             Nation
             in
             their
             own
             Defence
             .
             But
             instead
             of
             the
             Aid
             he
             expected
             ,
             he
             had
             the
             Mortification
             to
             receive
             only
             a
             faint
             Excuse
             ;
             for
             the
             most
             favourable
             Answer
             his
             Messengers
             cou'd
             obtain
             from
             the
             Cadi
             was
             ,
             that
             he
             had
             not
             Forces
             sufficient
             to
             suppress
             the
             seditious
             Multitude
             ;
             and
             that
             the
             best
             Advice
             he
             cou'd
             give
             his
             Master
             ,
             was
             to
             defend
             himself
             as
             well
             as
             he
             cou'd
             .
             The
             Consul
             perceiving
             that
             this
             was
             in
             effect
             an
             absolute
             Denial
             ,
             
             dispatch'd
             an
             Express
             to
             Monsieur
             
               de
               Chasteauneuf
            
             ,
             to
             acquaint
             him
             with
             the
             extreme
             Danger
             that
             threaten'd
             the
             Nation
             ,
             and
             to
             intreat
             him
             to
             use
             his
             Int'rest
             at
             the
             Port
             for
             the
             procuring
             a
             
               Grand
               Mandamus
            
             against
             the
             Barbarians
             .
          
           
             Before
             I
             proceed
             farther
             ,
             't
             will
             not
             be
             improper
             to
             inform
             you
             ,
             that
             a
             
               Grand
               Mandamus
            
             is
             an
             express
             Order
             from
             the
             Sultan
             ,
             which
             he
             never
             grants
             but
             in
             Cases
             of
             great
             Necessity
             ,
             and
             of
             the
             highest
             Importance
             .
             Those
             who
             refuse
             to
             submit
             to
             it
             are
             declar'd
             Rebels
             against
             the
             
               Grand
               Signior
            
             ;
             and
             the
             Law
             ordains
             that
             such
             Persons
             shall
             be
             treated
             as
             Infidels
             :
             So
             that
             these
             Orders
             may
             be
             call'd
             the
             Grand
             Signior's
             Thunders
             ;
             as
             Excommunications
             are
             said
             to
             be
             the
             Thunders
             of
             the
             Vatican
             .
          
           
             The
             Consul
             waited
             with
             an
             extreme
             Impatience
             for
             the
             Return
             of
             his
             Express
             ,
             and
             during
             the
             space
             of
             three
             Weeks
             which
             that
             Messenger
             spent
             in
             his
             Journey
             ,
             and
             in
             dispatching
             his
             Bus'ness
             ,
             the
             French
             were
             forc'd
             to
             suffer
             the
             Insolency
             of
             the
             Barbarians
             ,
             whose
             Fury
             was
             so
             far
             from
             being
             appeas'd
             ,
             that
             it
             wanted
             little
             of
             its
             first
             impetuosity
             ;
             for
             they
             continu'd
             still
             to
             beat
             and
             affront
             all
             the
             Frenchmen
             that
             came
             in
             their
             Way
             .
             Nor
             cou'd
             the
             Greeks
             and
             Jews
             escape
             their
             Rage
             ,
             for
             as
             many
             of
             'em
             as
             were
             found
             with
             yellow
             Babouches
             ,
             long
             Breeches
             ,
             or
             any
             sort
             of
             Habit
             or
             Ornament
             prohibited
             by
             Law
             ,
             were
             sure
             of
             the
             Bastinado
             ;
             these
             Villains
             pretending
             that
             they
             wou'd
             restore
             Justice
             in
             the
             City
             ,
             and
             reform
             the
             Abuses
             that
             had
             crept
             into
             the
             Government
             .
             One
             Day
             they
             happen'd
             to
             meet
             an
             old
             Drogue-man
             with
             a
             Chacsir
             ,
             after
             the
             Turkish
             Fashion
             ,
             and
             immediately
             ask'd
             him
             by
             what
             Authority
             he
             wore
             that
             Habit
             :
             The
             poor
             Man
             reply'd
             ,
             that
             he
             wore
             it
             as
             Interpreter
             of
             France
             ;
             but
             this
             Answer
             instead
             of
             pacifying
             'em
             ,
             irritated
             'em
             so
             extremely
             ,
             
             that
             after
             a
             severe
             Beating
             they
             took
             away
             his
             Chacsir
             ,
             and
             sent
             him
             home
             with
             a
             bare
             Breech
             .
             At
             last
             the
             
               Grand
               Mandamus
            
             came
             ,
             forbidding
             the
             Barbarians
             under
             pain
             of
             Rebellion
             to
             molest
             the
             French
             ;
             and
             ordaining
             the
             Cadi
             ,
             and
             all
             the
             Inhabitants
             of
             Smyrna
             ,
             to
             shut
             up
             their
             Shops
             ,
             and
             be
             ready
             to
             assist
             the
             French
             in
             case
             of
             any
             Tumult
             or
             Disturbance
             .
             The
             Consul
             was
             extremely
             proud
             of
             this
             Order
             ,
             and
             after
             he
             had
             notify'd
             it
             to
             the
             Cadi
             ,
             thought
             himself
             as
             secure
             as
             if
             he
             had
             obtain'd
             a
             strong
             Reinforcement
             :
             But
             the
             Barbarians
             ,
             who
             had
             receiv'd
             Advice
             of
             it
             from
             the
             Cadi
             ,
             instead
             of
             submitting
             to
             the
             
             Sultan's
             Command
             ,
             began
             to
             Rage
             with
             more
             Violence
             than
             before
             .
             The
             first
             who
             felt
             the
             Fury
             of
             this
             new
             Storm
             ,
             were
             a
             Chirurgeon
             and
             another
             Frenchman
             ,
             who
             receiv'd
             three
             Wounds
             with
             a
             Poniard
             .
             Afterwards
             they
             besieg'd
             the
             
             Consul's
             House
             ,
             and
             wou'd
             have
             set
             Fire
             to
             it
             ,
             if
             they
             had
             not
             been
             prevented
             by
             fifteen
             or
             twenty
             Janisaries
             ,
             whom
             he
             had
             call'd
             to
             his
             Assistance
             .
             The
             Cadi
             seem'd
             to
             be
             an
             unconcern'd
             Spectator
             of
             all
             these
             Disorders
             ;
             for
             when
             the
             Consul
             sent
             to
             require
             his
             Assistance
             ,
             according
             to
             the
             Order
             he
             had
             receiv'd
             from
             the
             Port
             ,
             he
             answer'd
             him
             in
             plain
             Terms
             ,
             that
             he
             neither
             wou'd
             nor
             durst
             incense
             the
             Barbarians
             ,
             and
             that
             he
             was
             resolv'd
             to
             expect
             the
             Event
             without
             interposing
             in
             other
             Mens
             Affairs
             .
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             the
             Inhabitants
             of
             the
             City
             shut
             up
             their
             Shops
             ,
             according
             to
             the
             Grand
             Signior's
             Order
             ;
             but
             they
             were
             so
             far
             from
             assisting
             the
             French
             ,
             that
             they
             had
             not
             the
             Courage
             to
             appear
             in
             the
             Streets
             :
             And
             if
             by
             good
             Fortune
             the
             
               Captain
               Bassa
            
             had
             not
             arriv'd
             with
             seven
             Galleys
             ,
             't
             is
             hard
             to
             divine
             what
             might
             have
             been
             the
             issue
             of
             these
             Disturbances
             .
             You
             may
             easily
             conclude
             ,
             that
             our
             Country-men
             ,
             after
             such
             late
             and
             fatal
             Experience
             of
             the
             Barbarity
             of
             those
             Infidels
             ,
             are
             extremely
             alarm'd
             at
             the
             News
             
             of
             their
             Arrival
             :
             And
             their
             Fears
             are
             encreas'd
             by
             the
             Advice
             they
             have
             receiv'd
             from
             Constantinople
             ,
             that
             there
             were
             two
             Frenchmen
             murder●d
             by
             'em
             there
             in
             their
             own
             Houses
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             the
             two
             Protestant
             Nations
             have
             hitherto
             suffer'd
             nothing
             but
             Words
             ;
             but
             who
             can
             secure
             'em
             from
             the
             Danger
             of
             being
             made
             Sharers
             in
             the
             common
             Calamity
             ,
             if
             another
             Tumult
             shou'd
             happen
             .
             'T
             is
             impossible
             to
             reflect
             without
             Horror
             on
             their
             manner
             of
             attacking
             a
             Christian
             that
             has
             the
             Misfortune
             to
             come
             in
             their
             way
             .
             As
             soon
             as
             they
             perceive
             him
             at
             a
             Distance
             ,
             they
             draw
             their
             Poniards
             ,
             and
             with
             a
             Howling
             and
             Wolvish
             Noise
             ,
             run
             bellowing
             out
             these
             Words
             ,
             
               alla
               ,
               alla
               ,
               alla
            
             ,
             in
             the
             same
             Tone
             they
             use
             when
             they
             board
             a
             Ship.
             In
             such
             Cases
             't
             is
             in
             vain
             to
             think
             of
             Resistance
             ;
             and
             as
             soon
             as
             a
             Man
             sees
             'em
             coming
             ,
             he
             must
             place
             his
             only
             Confidence
             in
             the
             Swiftness
             of
             his
             Legs
             ;
             For
             if
             a
             Turk
             shou'd
             offer
             to
             stop
             'em
             ,
             they
             wou'd
             infallibly
             turn
             their
             Poniards
             against
             him
             .
          
           
             These
             are
             the
             fatal
             and
             inevitable
             Consequences
             of
             the
             Weakness
             of
             the
             Turkish
             Government
             :
             And
             the
             
               Grand
               Signior
            
             must
             be
             a
             tame
             Spectator
             of
             the
             Insolency
             of
             three
             or
             four
             Hundred
             Scoundrels
             ,
             (
             for
             there
             were
             no
             more
             of
             'em
             ,
             )
             and
             patiently
             suffer
             'em
             to
             domineer
             over
             a
             great
             City
             ,
             slight
             his
             Grand
             Mandamus's
             ,
             and
             assassinate
             almost
             under
             his
             Whiskers
             those
             whom
             he
             had
             taken
             into
             his
             Protection
             in
             so
             particular
             a
             manner
             .
          
           
             The
             present
             
               French
               Consul
            
             has
             been
             very
             unfortunate
             in
             the
             Discharge
             of
             his
             Office.
             He
             has
             been
             twice
             affronted
             by
             the
             Barbarians
             ;
             and
             besides
             ,
             he
             has
             a
             very
             small
             Share
             in
             the
             Ambassador's
             Friendship
             ,
             and
             is
             yet
             less
             belov'd
             by
             the
             Nation
             ,
             who
             take
             all
             Occasions
             to
             mortifie
             him
             .
             T'other
             Day
             there
             happen'd
             a
             Quarrel
             between
             him
             and
             the
             Capuchins
             ,
             who
             are
             Curates
             of
             the
             Parish
             ,
             on
             the
             Occasion
             of
             the
             Election
             of
             a
             Grand-Vicar
             .
             For
             
             the
             Consul
             was
             persuaded
             by
             the
             Jesuites
             to
             promote
             one
             whom
             they
             recommended
             to
             him
             ,
             and
             resolv'd
             to
             make
             him
             Officiate
             on
             S.
             
             Lewis's
             Day
             ,
             and
             pronounce
             that
             Saint's
             Panegyrick
             .
             The
             Capuchins
             wou'd
             not
             own
             the
             new
             Vicar
             ,
             and
             were
             so
             incens'd
             against
             the
             Consul
             ,
             that
             they
             threaten'd
             to
             shut
             the
             Doors
             of
             their
             Church
             ;
             but
             perceiving
             that
             he
             was
             resolv'd
             to
             break
             'em
             open
             ,
             they
             were
             unwilling
             to
             expose
             themselves
             to
             so
             publick
             an
             Affront
             ,
             and
             contented
             themselves
             with
             giving
             out
             that
             they
             wou'd
             Excommunicate
             the
             Consul
             ,
             who
             laugh'd
             at
             their
             Anger
             ,
             and
             told
             'em
             in
             a
             deriding
             manner
             ,
             that
             since
             nothing
             less
             than
             Excommunication
             wou'd
             satisfie
             'em
             ,
             he
             wou'd
             let
             'em
             know
             that
             he
             cou'd
             Excommunicate
             as
             well
             as
             they
             ,
             and
             that
             they
             shou'd
             find
             his
             Sentences
             more
             effectual
             than
             theirs
             were
             wont
             to
             be
             .
             This
             Consul
             is
             absolutely
             govern'd
             by
             the
             Jesuites
             ,
             and
             so
             intirely
             devoted
             to
             'em
             ,
             that
             he
             can't
             live
             without
             '
             em
             .
             Among
             the
             Marks
             of
             his
             Affection
             to
             that
             Order
             ,
             I
             may
             reckon
             the
             late
             splendid
             Entertainment
             which
             he
             gave
             to
             Father
             Grimaldy
             ,
             who
             pass'd
             by
             this
             Place
             in
             his
             Return
             from
             China
             ,
             from
             whence
             he
             was
             sent
             with
             the
             Character
             of
             an
             Envoy
             to
             the
             French
             King.
             This
             Jesuit
             has
             a
             strange
             Ambition
             to
             appear
             Great
             ,
             and
             talks
             perpetually
             of
             the
             Honours
             he
             receives
             from
             the
             King
             of
             China
             ,
             and
             of
             the
             Favours
             that
             Monarch
             bestows
             on
             some
             other
             Fathers
             of
             the
             Society
             ,
             whom
             he
             has
             made
             Mandarin's
             of
             the
             first
             Order
             .
             It
             must
             be
             acknowledg'd
             ,
             that
             the
             Jesuits
             are
             perfect
             Masters
             of
             the
             Art
             of
             Intriguing
             ;
             they
             have
             always
             made
             it
             their
             Bus'ness
             to
             insinuate
             themselves
             into
             the
             Affection
             of
             Princes
             ,
             and
             have
             manag'd
             their
             Ambitious
             Designs
             with
             so
             much
             Dexterity
             and
             Success
             ,
             that
             we
             have
             already
             seen
             some
             Fathers
             of
             that
             Order
             dignify'd
             with
             the
             Title
             of
             Embassadors
             by
             the
             Courts
             of
             
               Siam
               ,
               China
               ,
               Poland
               ,
               Tartary
               ,
               
               &c.
               
            
             You
             see
             ,
             Sir
             ,
             how
             suitable
             their
             Actions
             are
             to
             the
             pretended
             Humility
             of
             their
             Profession
             :
             And
             I
             leave
             you
             to
             judge
             with
             what
             Confidence
             they
             can
             boast
             of
             their
             renouncing
             Ecclesiastical
             Dignities
             ,
             while
             they
             court
             Secular
             Preferments
             with
             so
             much
             Eagerness
             .
          
           
             
               An
               Arabian
               Impostor
               at
               his
               Conjurations
               P.
               309
            
          
           
             By
             this
             Instance
             you
             may
             judge
             of
             the
             boasted
             Skill
             of
             all
             those
             feign'd
             Arabian
             Magicians
             ;
             for
             this
             Man
             was
             reputed
             one
             of
             the
             most
             learn'd
             Professors
             of
             that
             Art
             in
             Asia
             :
             And
             yet
             't
             is
             as
             certain
             as
             you
             may
             think
             it
             incredible
             ,
             that
             some
             Franks
             are
             so
             besotted
             with
             those
             mystical
             Fooleries
             ,
             that
             they
             are
             not
             asham'd
             to
             imploy
             all
             their
             Time
             in
             so
             useless
             an
             Occupation
             .
             I
             know
             a
             very
             expert
             and
             much-esteem'd
             Painter
             ,
             call'd
             
               Le
               Brun
            
             ,
             who
             neglecting
             his
             Bus'ness
             ,
             applies
             himself
             wholly
             to
             the
             Study
             of
             Divination
             ,
             and
             spends
             whole
             Days
             in
             turning
             over
             his
             Magical
             Books
             ,
             which
             he
             procures
             to
             be
             translated
             into
             French
             at
             a
             very
             considerable
             Charge
             .
             But
             notwithstanding
             all
             the
             Confidence
             of
             this
             pretended
             Diviner
             ,
             't
             is
             impossible
             that
             his
             Art
             can
             be
             true
             ,
             since
             the
             very
             Principles
             on
             which
             it
             depends
             ,
             are
             certainly
             false
             ;
             and
             to
             convince
             you
             of
             the
             Absurdity
             of
             his
             Pretensions
             ,
             't
             will
             be
             sufficient
             to
             acquaint
             you
             with
             his
             usual
             Method
             of
             Divining
             .
             He
             has
             two
             little
             Bones
             with
             Eight
             Sides
             a-piece
             ,
             on
             each
             of
             which
             there
             is
             a
             small
             Character
             engrav'd
             ;
             and
             when
             you
             propose
             your
             Question
             ,
             he
             throws
             the
             Bones
             ,
             and
             observes
             the
             Characters
             that
             appear
             on
             the
             sides
             that
             happen
             to
             be
             uppermost
             .
             Then
             having
             made
             several
             Combinations
             of
             these
             Characters
             ,
             with
             certain
             Numbers
             ,
             according
             to
             the
             Subject
             of
             the
             Question
             ,
             he
             draws
             a
             Scheme
             or
             Figure
             ,
             which
             he
             seeks
             in
             one
             of
             his
             Books
             ,
             where
             he
             finds
             a
             Sentence
             written
             ,
             which
             he
             fancies
             to
             be
             the
             desir'd
             Solution
             .
             Thus
             you
             see
             't
             is
             plain
             that
             the
             whole
             Mystery
             depends
             on
             the
             Fortune
             of
             the
             Dice
             :
             But
             when
             I
             endeavour'd
             to
             convince
             him
             of
             the
             Uncertainty
             of
             his
             Art
             which
             betray'd
             him
             into
             so
             many
             Errors
             ,
             that
             not
             One
             Answer
             in
             Thirty
             was
             
             found
             to
             be
             exactly
             true
             ,
             he
             reply'd
             very
             gravely
             ,
             that
             these
             Mistakes
             were
             occasion'd
             by
             his
             Ignorance
             ,
             and
             that
             he
             did
             not
             yet
             comprehend
             the
             Depths
             of
             that
             infallible
             Science
             ;
             adding
             ,
             as
             a
             Confirmation
             of
             the
             Certainty
             of
             the
             Art
             ,
             that
             notwithstanding
             the
             small
             Progress
             he
             had
             made
             in
             it
             ,
             he
             never
             found
             that
             his
             Book
             had
             return'd
             a
             Cross
             or
             Impertinent
             Answer
             .
             And
             to
             convince
             me
             of
             the
             Truth
             of
             his
             Assertion
             ,
             he
             made
             several
             Tryals
             in
             my
             Presence
             ,
             and
             I
             observ'd
             always
             that
             the
             Answer
             ,
             whether
             True
             or
             False
             ,
             related
             to
             the
             Subject
             of
             the
             Question
             ;
             nor
             will
             I
             scruple
             to
             confess
             that
             I
             was
             somewhat
             surpriz'd
             at
             so
             odd
             an
             Effect
             of
             Chance
             .
          
           
             The
             Turks
             are
             also
             very
             much
             addicted
             to
             the
             study
             of
             the
             
               Philosopher's
               Stone
            
             ,
             or
             the
             Art
             of
             making
             Gold
             and
             Silver
             ;
             and
             I
             remember
             a
             story
             on
             this
             Subject
             ,
             which
             I
             had
             from
             a
             Turk
             ,
             who
             is
             reckon'd
             a
             Man
             of
             Honour
             .
             Two
             
               Persian
               Dervises
            
             came
             to
             Constantinople
             about
             four
             Years
             ago
             ,
             and
             after
             they
             had
             staid
             a
             Fortnight
             ,
             told
             their
             Landlord
             ,
             that
             tho'
             they
             had
             no
             Money
             to
             pay
             for
             their
             Lodging
             and
             Entertainment
             ,
             they
             were
             resolv'd
             not
             to
             go
             away
             without
             giving
             him
             entire
             Satisfaction
             .
             I
             know
             not
             what
             Credit
             he
             gave
             to
             their
             Promises
             ,
             but
             he
             quickly
             perceiv'd
             the
             Effect
             of
             'em
             ,
             for
             they
             took
             a
             large
             Copper-Dish
             ,
             which
             they
             found
             in
             the
             House
             ,
             and
             having
             melted
             it
             down
             in
             his
             Presence
             ,
             threw
             a
             little
             Powder
             upon
             it
             ,
             which
             immediately
             chang'd
             the
             Copper
             into
             Silver
             .
             They
             retain'd
             one
             half
             for
             themselves
             ,
             and
             left
             the
             other
             with
             their
             Landlord
             ,
             who
             upon
             tryal
             found
             it
             to
             be
             true
             Silver
             :
             And
             besides
             ,
             they
             presented
             him
             with
             a
             small
             Quantity
             of
             the
             Powder
             .
             The
             
               Grand
               Visier
               Ismael
            
             ,
             hearing
             of
             this
             Accident
             ,
             sent
             for
             the
             Man
             ,
             and
             oblig'd
             him
             to
             deliver
             up
             the
             Powder
             ,
             which
             he
             show'd
             to
             several
             expert
             Chymists
             ,
             who
             according
             to
             his
             Orders
             ,
             
             endeavour'd
             to
             find
             out
             the
             Secret.
             But
             all
             their
             Attempts
             were
             unsuccessful
             ;
             and
             I
             'm
             the
             rather
             inclin'd
             to
             believe
             the
             Conclusion
             of
             the
             Story
             ,
             because
             I
             look
             upon
             this
             Art
             to
             be
             no
             less
             frivolous
             and
             uncertain
             than
             that
             of
             Divination
             .
          
           
             
               I
               am
            
             ,
             
               SIR
               ,
            
             
               Your
               &c.
               
            
             
               Smyrna
               ,
               
                 August
                 1691.
                 
              
            
          
        
         
           
             LETTER
             XXIV
             .
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
          
           
             IN
             compliance
             with
             your
             Desire
             I
             shall
             in
             this
             Letter
             ,
             present
             you
             with
             a
             short
             View
             of
             the
             Life
             of
             Soliman
             ,
             Emperour
             of
             the
             Turks
             ,
             who
             died
             June
             22.
             and
             was
             succeeded
             by
             his
             younger
             Brother
             ,
             Achmet
             .
          
           
             The
             present
             
               Grand
               Signior
               ,
               Achmet
            
             ,
             the
             deceas'd
             Soliman
             ,
             and
             the
             depos'd
             
               Sultan
               Mahomet
            
             ,
             were
             three
             Brothers
             ,
             the
             Sons
             of
             
               Sultan
               Ibrahim
            
             ,
             who
             was
             strangl'd
             in
             the
             Castle
             of
             the
             
               Seven
               Towers
            
             ,
             in
             the
             heat
             of
             one
             of
             those
             mutinous
             Tumults
             of
             the
             Janizaries
             ,
             that
             happen
             so
             frequently
             in
             this
             Country
             .
             His
             eldest
             Son
             Mahomet
             ,
             who
             was
             then
             very
             young
             ,
             was
             declar'd
             Emperour
             by
             the
             Interest
             and
             Solicitation
             of
             the
             Sultana
             Mother
             ,
             and
             of
             the
             famous
             
               Visie●
               ,
               Kopergli
            
             ,
             who
             ow'd
             his
             Advancement
             to
             her
             ,
             and
             ever
             afterwards
             serv'd
             her
             with
             an
             inviolable
             Fidelity
             .
             This
             Prince's
             Reign
             may
             be
             justly
             reckon'd
             disastrous
             ;
             for
             not
             to
             mention
             those
             frequent
             and
             terrible
             Seditions
             that
             made
             him
             tremble
             so
             often
             ,
             and
             in
             one
             of
             which
             he
             was
             at
             last
             dethron'd
             ,
             his
             
             Armies
             were
             several
             times
             ●outed
             by
             the
             Venetians
             ,
             and
             the
             Duke
             of
             Lorrain
             before
             his
             Death
             ,
             had
             almost
             driven
             him
             quite
             out
             of
             Hungary
             .
             The
             Turks
             ,
             who
             are
             the
             most
             ungovernable
             Subjects
             in
             the
             World
             to
             an
             unfortunate
             Prince
             ,
             and
             who
             are
             possess'd
             with
             a
             Belief
             of
             a
             certain
             Predestination
             ,
             that
             over-rules
             the
             Fate
             of
             their
             Emperour
             on
             which
             they
             imagine
             the
             Fortune
             of
             the
             Empire
             depends
             ,
             concluded
             that
             the
             Reign
             of
             Mahomet
             would
             be
             a
             perpetual
             Scene
             of
             Disasters
             :
             and
             the
             Grandees
             encourag'd
             the
             Superstition
             of
             the
             People
             ,
             in
             Expectation
             of
             a
             favourable
             Opportunity
             to
             execute
             the
             Designs
             they
             had
             premeditated
             against
             the
             Government
             .
             They
             cou'd
             not
             have
             desir'd
             a
             more
             inviting
             Juncture
             to
             attempt
             and
             carry
             on
             so
             vast
             an
             Undertaking
             ,
             than
             the
             Disturbances
             that
             were
             occasion'd
             by
             the
             ill
             Success
             of
             the
             Campaign
             of
             1687.
             and
             especially
             by
             the
             Loss
             of
             the
             Famous
             Battle
             of
             Hersan
             ;
             where
             the
             Imperialists
             kill'd
             Ten
             thousand
             Turks
             on
             the
             Spot
             ,
             pillag'd
             their
             Camp
             ,
             made
             themselves
             Masters
             of
             Ninety
             Pieces
             of
             Cannon
             ,
             and
             their
             whole
             Train
             of
             Artillery
             .
             The
             Consternation
             that
             was
             occasion'd
             among
             the
             Turks
             by
             the
             News
             of
             this
             Defeat
             ,
             was
             encreas'd
             by
             the
             Advice
             they
             receiv'd
             almost
             at
             the
             same
             time
             that
             the
             Bridge
             of
             Esseck
             was
             seiz'd
             by
             the
             Count
             
               de
               Dunevalt
            
             ,
             immediately
             after
             the
             Victory
             .
             The
             
               Grand
               Visier
            
             ,
             who
             commanded
             the
             Army
             in
             Person
             ,
             dreading
             the
             usual
             Fate
             of
             his
             Predecessors
             on
             such
             Occasions
             ,
             endeavour'd
             to
             secure
             himself
             by
             laying
             the
             Blame
             on
             the
             Generals
             that
             commanded
             under
             him
             ;
             and
             resolving
             to
             prevent
             the
             Designs
             of
             his
             Enemies
             ,
             perswaded
             the
             
               Grand
               Signior
            
             to
             put
             'em
             to
             Death
             .
             But
             tho'
             the
             Orders
             for
             that
             Effect
             were
             actually
             given
             out
             ,
             there
             was
             so
             strong
             a
             Party
             already
             form'd
             both
             against
             the
             Visier
             and
             the
             Sultan
             ,
             that
             the
             Great
             Officers
             of
             the
             Army
             ,
             with
             the
             
               Chiaoux
               Bassa
            
             at
             their
             Head
             ,
             made
             the
             whole
             Army
             revolt
             ,
             and
             march'd
             
             towards
             Constantinople
             ,
             with
             a
             Resolution
             to
             depose
             Mahomet
             ,
             and
             place
             his
             Brother
             Soliman
             on
             the
             Throne
             .
             The
             News
             of
             their
             Approach
             so
             terrifi'd
             the
             Sultan
             ,
             that
             knowing
             no
             orher
             Way
             to
             appease
             the
             Fury
             of
             the
             Rebels
             ,
             he
             abandon'd
             the
             
               Grand
               visier
            
             ,
             and
             sent
             the
             Imperial
             Signet
             to
             the
             
               Chiaoux
               Bassa
            
             ,
             whom
             he
             thought
             to
             gain
             by
             satisfying
             his
             Ambition
             .
             But
             he
             quickly
             found
             that
             the
             Danger
             was
             greater
             than
             he
             imagin'd
             ;
             for
             that
             Officer
             declar'd
             that
             he
             would
             not
             accept
             the
             
             Sultan's
             Offer
             till
             the
             
               Grand
               Visier
               ,
               Tefterdar
            
             ,
             Receiver
             of
             the
             Customs
             ,
             the
             Caimacan
             ,
             and
             some
             others
             whom
             he
             nam'd
             ,
             were
             put
             to
             Death
             .
             The
             Persons
             whose
             Heads
             he
             demanded
             were
             the
             only
             faithful
             Servants
             of
             the
             
               Grand
               Signior
            
             ,
             who
             was
             extremely
             perplex'd
             at
             so
             unwelcome
             a
             Proposal
             ;
             knowing
             that
             his
             
             Visier's
             Death
             wou'd
             infallibly
             put
             a
             Period
             to
             his
             own
             Life
             ,
             or
             at
             least
             to
             his
             Reign
             .
             However
             the
             Necessity
             of
             his
             Affairs
             constrain'd
             him
             at
             last
             to
             sign
             the
             fatal
             Order
             :
             the
             unfortunate
             Visier
             was
             strangl'd
             ,
             and
             his
             Head
             sent
             to
             the
             
               Chiaoux
               Bassa
            
             ,
             who
             was
             so
             far
             from
             being
             appeas'd
             ,
             that
             his
             Insolence
             was
             heighten'd
             by
             this
             Mark
             of
             the
             
             Sultan's
             Condescension
             .
             He
             dismiss'd
             the
             Messengers
             with
             Scorn
             ,
             telling
             'em
             in
             a
             domineering
             Manner
             ,
             That
             they
             cou'd
             not
             justly
             expect
             he
             wou'd
             be
             satisfied
             with
             one
             Head
             instead
             of
             Twenty
             which
             he
             had
             demanded
             ;
             and
             that
             this
             way
             of
             proceeding
             convinc'd
             him
             that
             the
             Government
             was
             not
             much
             concern'd
             for
             the
             Quiet
             of
             the
             Empire
             .
             Thus
             the
             Sultan
             was
             constrain'd
             to
             send
             all
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             Officers
             whom
             those
             insolent
             Rebels
             requir'd
             ;
             and
             soon
             after
             perceiv'd
             there
             was
             no
             Hope
             of
             reducing
             'em
             to
             a
             Sence
             of
             their
             Duty
             :
             for
             all
             the
             Prisoners
             were
             barbarously
             murder'd
             in
             the
             Middle
             of
             the
             Army
             by
             the
             Chiaoux
             Bassa's
             Order
             .
             This
             last
             Act
             of
             Inhumanity
             struck
             such
             a
             Terrour
             into
             the
             Grand
             Signior's
             Mind
             ,
             that
             concluding
             himself
             to
             be
             irrecoverably
             
             lost
             ,
             he
             resolv'd
             in
             the
             Fury
             of
             his
             Despair
             to
             put
             to
             Death
             all
             his
             Brothers
             and
             Sons
             .
             To
             comprehend
             the
             Reason
             of
             this
             dismal
             Resolution
             ,
             you
             must
             know
             that
             the
             Religion
             of
             the
             Turks
             inspires
             'em
             with
             a
             certain
             Veneration
             for
             the
             Ottoman
             Blood
             ,
             that
             over-awes
             'em
             ev'n
             in
             the
             the
             midst
             of
             the
             most
             terrible
             Seditions
             ,
             and
             is
             so
             deeply
             rooted
             in
             their
             Minds
             ,
             that
             they
             wou'd
             rather
             chuse
             to
             suffer
             the
             most
             cruel
             Death
             than
             to
             see
             the
             Throne
             possess'd
             by
             a
             Prince
             of
             another
             Family
             .
             And
             therefore
             't
             is
             the
             usual
             Custom
             of
             those
             Emperours
             to
             begin
             their
             Reign
             with
             the
             Death
             of
             their
             Brothers
             ,
             that
             the
             Throne
             may
             be
             secur'd
             from
             the
             Attempts
             of
             so
             many
             dangerous
             Pretenders
             .
             Thus
             
               Sultan
               Amurath
            
             ,
             the
             Uncle
             of
             these
             three
             Emperours
             ,
             put
             to
             Death
             all
             the
             Males
             of
             the
             Family
             ;
             and
             if
             the
             Tenderness
             of
             a
             Mother
             had
             not
             prompted
             the
             
               Sultana
               Validé
            
             to
             hide
             Ibrahim
             ,
             who
             was
             the
             Youngest
             ,
             the
             whole
             Race
             had
             been
             extingush'd
             .
             For
             the
             Sultans
             are
             more
             concern'd
             for
             their
             own
             Security
             than
             for
             the
             Preservation
             of
             the
             Royal
             Line
             .
             Nevertheless
             
               Sultan
               Mahomet
            
             wou'd
             never
             hearken
             to
             the
             Perswasions
             of
             some
             of
             his
             Counsellours
             ,
             who
             advis'd
             him
             to
             put
             that
             cruel
             Maxim
             in
             Execution
             ,
             and
             endeavour'd
             to
             make
             him
             sensible
             that
             the
             Quiet
             of
             the
             Empire
             could
             never
             be
             secur'd
             but
             by
             the
             Death
             of
             Soliman
             and
             Achmet
             .
             But
             since
             he
             wou'd
             not
             put
             'em
             to
             death
             while
             they
             were
             in
             his
             Power
             ,
             he
             found
             ,
             at
             last
             ,
             that
             he
             cou'd
             not
             execute
             that
             bloody
             Resolution
             when
             his
             Despair
             constrain'd
             him
             to
             attempt
             it
             :
             for
             the
             
               Bostangi
               Bassa
            
             ,
             who
             was
             one
             of
             the
             Conspirators
             ,
             carry'd
             the
             two
             Princes
             to
             the
             old
             Seraglio
             under
             a
             strong
             Guard
             ,
             who
             mock'd
             the
             Sultan
             when
             he
             demanded
             to
             be
             admitted
             with
             some
             of
             his
             Servants
             ;
             and
             the
             Army
             was
             already
             posted
             in
             and
             about
             Constantinople
             .
             That
             Night
             a
             Council
             of
             the
             Great
             Officers
             was
             held
             in
             Santa-Sophia
             ,
             where
             they
             came
             to
             a
             final
             Resolution
             to
             
             place
             Soliman
             on
             the
             Throne
             ,
             and
             he
             was
             declar'd
             Emperour
             the
             next
             Day
             with
             universal
             Acclamations
             of
             Joy.
             Thus
             Mahomet
             was
             depos'd
             ,
             and
             Soliman
             ,
             who
             was
             no
             less
             averse
             to
             Cruelty
             than
             his
             Brother
             ,
             contented
             himself
             with
             ordaining
             that
             he
             shou'd
             receive
             the
             same
             Treatment
             which
             he
             had
             made
             him
             suffer
             for
             so
             many
             Years
             .
             When
             the
             
               Capigi
               Bassa
            
             came
             to
             secure
             his
             Person
             ,
             and
             to
             acquaint
             him
             with
             the
             New
             Emperour's
             Order
             ,
             he
             found
             him
             on
             the
             Sopha
             drinking
             Coffee
             ,
             with
             a
             Serenity
             of
             Mind
             that
             may
             be
             almost
             reckon'd
             a
             Prodigy
             ,
             considering
             the
             deplorable
             Circumstances
             of
             his
             Condition
             .
             He
             submitted
             without
             making
             the
             least
             Resistance
             ,
             saying
             ,
             
               That
               it
               was
               impossible
               to
               oppose
               the
               Decrees
               of
               Heav'n
               ,
               and
               that
               whatsoever
               is
               predestinated
               must
               necessarily
               happen
               .
            
          
           
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             the
             Caimacan
             ,
             who
             was
             one
             of
             Sultan
             Mahomet's
             Favorites
             ,
             had
             the
             good
             Fortune
             or
             Interest
             ,
             to
             secure
             himself
             from
             being
             enroll'd
             among
             the
             rest
             of
             those
             miserable
             Victims
             that
             were
             sacrific'd
             to
             the
             Fury
             of
             the
             
               Chiaoux
               Bassa
            
             .
             But
             assoon
             as
             he
             perceiv'd
             that
             his
             Master
             was
             irrecoverably
             ruin'd
             ,
             he
             resolv'd
             to
             prevent
             the
             implacable
             Malice
             of
             his
             Enemies
             by
             a
             speedy
             flight
             :
             and
             considering
             that
             Christendom
             was
             the
             only
             Place
             where
             he
             could
             expect
             to
             secure
             his
             Life
             ,
             he
             embark'd
             that
             Night
             on
             a
             Saique
             accompany'd
             only
             with
             one
             Servant
             ;
             and
             having
             made
             a
             sufficient
             Provision
             of
             Gold
             ,
             Silver
             ,
             and
             Jewels
             ,
             attempted
             to
             get
             into
             a
             French
             Vessel
             of
             Ciotad
             ,
             commanded
             by
             one
             Captain
             Crevilliers
             :
             but
             the
             Mariners
             who
             had
             been
             already
             alarm'd
             with
             the
             News
             of
             those
             terrible
             Disturbanees
             ,
             wou'd
             not
             suffer
             him
             to
             approach
             the
             Ship
             till
             he
             had
             declar'd
             his
             Name
             ,
             and
             acquainted
             'em
             ,
             that
             the
             Caimacan
             of
             Constantinople
             desir'd
             to
             speak
             with
             the
             Captain
             .
             Assoon
             as
             the
             Captain
             appear'd
             ,
             the
             Caimacan
             intreated
             him
             to
             receive
             him
             on
             Board
             his
             Ship
             ,
             and
             transport
             him
             to
             France
             ;
             
             assuring
             him
             that
             he
             might
             set
             sail
             the
             next
             night
             without
             any
             Opposition
             ,
             and
             offering
             Twenty
             thousand
             Sequins
             ,
             or
             Fifty
             thousand
             Crowns
             for
             his
             Passage
             .
             This
             was
             a
             very
             tempting
             Offer
             to
             the
             Captain
             ,
             and
             he
             has
             since
             told
             me
             ,
             that
             he
             wou'd
             have
             most
             willingly
             accepted
             it
             ,
             if
             the
             Caimacan
             had
             had
             the
             the
             Prudence
             to
             conceal
             his
             Name
             ;
             but
             since
             both
             that
             and
             his
             Quality
             was
             known
             by
             the
             whole
             Ship
             's
             Company
             ,
             neither
             Compassion
             nor
             Covetousness
             cou'd
             prevail
             with
             the
             Captain
             to
             run
             so
             great
             a
             Hazard
             ;
             so
             that
             the
             poor
             Caimacan
             was
             forc'd
             to
             steer
             his
             Course
             towards
             the
             Canal
             of
             the
             Black
             Sea
             ,
             thinking
             to
             make
             his
             Escape
             that
             way
             .
             But
             he
             was
             quickly
             discover'd
             by
             the
             great
             Quantity
             of
             Silver
             which
             he
             had
             about
             him
             ,
             and
             was
             brought
             back
             to
             Constantinople
             ,
             where
             he
             was
             beheaded
             .
             A
             Hundred
             other
             Bassa's
             underwent
             the
             same
             Fate
             ;
             and
             the
             
               Grand
               Visier
            
             giving
             a
             full
             Career
             to
             his
             Spite
             and
             Revenge
             ,
             fill'd
             the
             whole
             City
             with
             Blood
             and
             Slaughter
             .
             There
             was
             nothing
             to
             be
             seen
             in
             the
             Streets
             but
             Janizaries
             and
             Spahi's
             ,
             assaulting
             and
             murdering
             those
             whom
             they
             met
             ;
             and
             no
             Man
             when
             he
             rose
             in
             the
             Morning
             was
             sure
             of
             going
             to
             Bed
             at
             Night
             .
             The
             Franks
             were
             extremely
             afraid
             ,
             lest
             the
             Storm
             should
             fall
             on
             them
             :
             the
             Ambassadours
             secur'd
             their
             Houses
             with
             strong
             Guards
             ,
             and
             all
             the
             Vessels
             in
             the
             Port
             ,
             
               English
               ,
               French
               ,
               Dutch
            
             and
             Venetian
             ,
             join'd
             together
             ,
             and
             put
             out
             to
             Sea
             ,
             with
             a
             Resolution
             to
             defend
             themselves
             to
             the
             last
             Extremity
             ,
             in
             case
             they
             shou'd
             be
             attack'd
             .
             To
             conclude
             ;
             I
             have
             heard
             some
             Turks
             ,
             who
             are
             both
             very
             old
             ,
             and
             well
             skill'd
             in
             the
             History
             of
             their
             Country
             ,
             affirm
             ,
             That
             the
             Quiet
             of
             the
             Empire
             was
             never
             disturb'd
             by
             a
             more
             Bloody
             Sedition
             .
             However
             't
             was
             at
             last
             appeas'd
             ,
             tho'
             the
             Calm
             lasted
             not
             long
             ;
             for
             in
             March
             there
             broke
             forth
             another
             terrible
             Insurrection
             against
             the
             New
             Sultan
             ,
             whom
             all
             Men
             began
             to
             look
             upon
             as
             incapable
             of
             
             the
             Government
             .
             Nor
             were
             they
             much
             mistaken
             in
             their
             Opinion
             of
             him
             ,
             and
             't
             is
             strange
             they
             did
             not
             sooner
             foresee
             the
             dangerons
             Consequences
             of
             so
             great
             a
             Revolution
             ;
             for
             how
             cou'd
             a
             Man
             learn
             the
             Art
             of
             Ruling
             so
             troublesome
             an
             Empire
             ,
             who
             had
             spent
             his
             whole
             Life
             in
             a
             close
             Prison
             ,
             where
             he
             cou'd
             only
             converse
             with
             Books
             ,
             and
             was
             so
             perfect
             a
             Stranger
             to
             the
             Management
             of
             Affairs
             ,
             that
             he
             was
             ignorant
             ev'n
             in
             the
             most
             common
             Things
             .
             Thus
             the
             best
             Quality
             they
             could
             expect
             or
             desire
             him
             to
             be
             indu'd
             with
             ,
             was
             an
             Easiness
             of
             Temper
             ,
             and
             a
             Willingness
             to
             be
             absolutely
             govern'd
             by
             his
             Ministers
             ;
             and
             indeed
             it
             may
             be
             said
             ,
             that
             there
             was
             never
             a
             more
             tractable
             Prince
             ;
             for
             during
             the
             whole
             Course
             of
             his
             Reign
             he
             never
             made
             Use
             of
             his
             Absolute
             Power
             in
             any
             one
             Act
             ,
             but
             only
             in
             preserving
             his
             Brothers
             ,
             whom
             he
             was
             often
             advis'd
             to
             put
             to
             Death
             ;
             especially
             on
             this
             Occasion
             ,
             when
             the
             Rebels
             threaten'd
             to
             restore
             Mahomet
             to
             the
             Throne
             ,
             and
             had
             almost
             effected
             their
             Resolution
             :
             for
             the
             Visier
             was
             massacr'd
             in
             his
             own
             House
             by
             the
             Janizaries
             ,
             who
             were
             the
             Authors
             of
             the
             Revolt
             ,
             and
             had
             made
             themselves
             Masters
             of
             the
             City
             .
             But
             the
             Sultan
             having
             very
             seasonably
             display'd
             the
             Banner
             of
             Mahomet
             ,
             the
             Saphi's
             ,
             the
             Leventi
             ,
             and
             the
             People
             run
             to
             his
             Assistance
             ,
             and
             dispers'd
             the
             the
             Janizaries
             .
             After
             the
             Tumult
             was
             calm'd
             ,
             the
             Bassa
             of
             Natolia
             ,
             who
             headed
             the
             Rebels
             ,
             was
             oblig'd
             to
             beg
             Pardon
             ,
             and
             above
             Five
             hundred
             of
             the
             Mutineers
             were
             hang'd
             ;
             tho'
             their
             Death
             made
             but
             a
             poor
             Amends
             for
             a
             whole
             Quarter
             of
             the
             City
             ,
             and
             above
             Twenty
             Galleys
             and
             Sultana's
             which
             they
             had
             burnt
             .
             '
             Twou'd
             be
             needless
             to
             give
             you
             a
             more
             particular
             Relation
             of
             these
             Accidents
             ,
             since
             you
             have
             doubtless
             read
             an
             Account
             of
             'em
             in
             your
             publick
             Journals
             or
             News-Papers
             ;
             and
             the
             only
             Reason
             why
             I
             mention'd
             'em
             ,
             is
             because
             they
             give
             some
             Light
             to
             
             the
             Transactions
             that
             succeeded
             'em
             ,
             which
             perhaps
             have
             not
             yet
             come
             to
             your
             knowledge
             .
             While
             the
             whole
             City
             was
             in
             a
             terrible
             Combustion
             ,
             and
             the
             Leventi
             animated
             by
             a
             Desire
             of
             Plunder
             ,
             were
             seeking
             an
             Occasion
             of
             breaking
             forth
             into
             fresh
             Disorders
             ,
             there
             came
             a
             whole
             Troop
             of
             'em
             to
             the
             French
             Ambassadour's
             Palace
             ,
             and
             in
             a
             very
             insolent
             Manner
             desir'd
             him
             to
             receive
             a
             certain
             beggarly
             Greek
             ,
             whom
             they
             brought
             along
             with
             'em
             ,
             to
             be
             his
             Drugger-Man
             ,
             or
             Interpreter
             .
             At
             first
             
               Monsieur
               de
               Girardin
            
             rejected
             the
             Proposal
             ,
             telling
             'em
             that
             he
             did
             not
             want
             a
             Drugger-Man
             ,
             and
             would
             not
             take
             one
             upon
             their
             Recommendation
             ;
             but
             seeing
             they
             began
             to
             be
             unruly
             ,
             and
             threaten
             to
             set
             Fire
             to
             his
             House
             ,
             he
             grew
             more
             complaisant
             ,
             and
             receiv'd
             the
             Drugger-Man
             more
             civilly
             .
             Nor
             can
             he
             be
             blam'd
             for
             suffering
             himself
             to
             be
             hector'd
             by
             the
             Rabble
             ,
             since
             't
             is
             certainly
             the
             wisest
             Course
             to
             submit
             on
             such
             Occasions
             .
          
           
             After
             the
             Sedition
             was
             quieted
             ,
             Soliman
             retir'd
             to
             Adrianople
             ;
             for
             he
             did
             not
             think
             himself
             safe
             in
             a
             City
             that
             becomes
             the
             
             Sultan's
             Prison
             upon
             the
             first
             breaking
             forth
             of
             an
             Insurrection
             ;
             and
             after
             that
             time
             he
             never
             resided
             in
             it
             .
             He
             conferr'd
             the
             Dignity
             of
             
               Grand
               Visier
            
             on
             one
             
               Ismael
               Bassa
            
             ,
             a
             Man
             without
             Experience
             ,
             and
             one
             who
             had
             nothing
             to
             recommend
             him
             but
             the
             Favour
             of
             his
             Master
             .
             No
             sooner
             was
             he
             intrusted
             with
             the
             Administration
             of
             the
             Government
             ,
             but
             the
             Empire
             was
             over-run
             with
             those
             Disorders
             and
             Confusions
             that
             are
             the
             natural
             Consequences
             of
             the
             Unskilfulness
             of
             the
             Principal
             Minister
             of
             State.
             Several
             Bassa's
             began
             to
             form
             Cabals
             ,
             and
             enter
             into
             separate
             Associations
             .
             Some
             espous'd
             the
             Interest
             of
             the
             Sultaness
             ,
             the
             Mother
             of
             the
             depos'd
             Mahomet
             ,
             who
             plotted
             to
             restore
             her
             Son
             ;
             others
             declar'd
             in
             Favour
             of
             one
             
               Jeghen
               Bassa
            
             ,
             who
             pretended
             to
             be
             of
             the
             Ottoman
             Race
             :
             some
             resolv'd
             
             to
             be
             independent
             ,
             without
             acknowledging
             any
             Head
             of
             their
             Party
             ,
             and
             all
             in
             general
             resus'd
             to
             submit
             to
             the
             present
             Government
             .
          
           
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             the
             Emperour
             carry'd
             on
             the
             War
             very
             prosperously
             ;
             for
             the
             Duke
             of
             Bavaria
             took
             Belgrade
             by
             Storm
             ,
             and
             the
             Prince
             of
             Baden
             ,
             after
             he
             had
             defeated
             the
             Bassa
             of
             Bosnia
             ,
             made
             himself
             Master
             of
             the
             whole
             Province
             .
             The
             next
             Year
             was
             remarkable
             for
             more
             Signal
             and
             Glorious
             Advantages
             ;
             for
             the
             Prince
             of
             Baden
             ,
             who
             commanded
             the
             Imperial
             Army
             in
             Hungary
             ,
             fought
             three
             Battles
             successively
             ,
             and
             obtain'd
             as
             many
             important
             Victories
             .
          
           
             The
             first
             Battle
             was
             fought
             near
             Passarowitz
             ,
             where
             the
             Turks
             lost
             seven
             Thousand
             Men
             ,
             a
             hundred
             Pieces
             of
             Cannon
             ,
             all
             their
             Bombs
             ,
             Carcasses
             ,
             Mortars
             ,
             Powder
             ,
             Tents
             ,
             &c.
             
             The
             second
             Victory
             was
             obtain'd
             on
             the
             24
             th
             .
             of
             September
             ,
             near
             Nissa
             ,
             where
             the
             Serasquier
             who
             commanded
             in
             Person
             ,
             cou'd
             not
             prevent
             the
             Loss
             of
             all
             his
             Cannon
             ,
             and
             eight
             Thousand
             Soldiers
             .
             The
             third
             Battel
             was
             fought
             near
             Widen
             ;
             and
             during
             the
             Heat
             of
             the
             Action
             ,
             the
             Imperialists
             carry'd
             the
             Town
             by
             Storm
             .
             Besides
             ,
             the
             Prince
             of
             Baden
             had
             taken
             
               Nissa
               ,
               Zwornick
               ,
               Nowigrath
               ,
               Arsowath
               ,
            
             and
             several
             other
             Places
             ,
             which
             open'd
             a
             free
             Passage
             into
             Bulgaria
             and
             Macedonia
             ,
             and
             from
             thence
             into
             Romania
             ;
             so
             that
             if
             the
             War
             had
             been
             carry'd
             on
             for
             some
             time
             with
             the
             same
             Vigour
             and
             Success
             ,
             the
             Imperialists
             might
             have
             advanc'd
             to
             the
             Gates
             of
             Constantinople
             .
             But
             in
             the
             beginning
             of
             the
             last
             Year
             ,
             the
             
               Visier
               Ismael
            
             was
             depos'd
             ,
             and
             succeeded
             by
             
               Kopergli
               Oglou
               ,
               Bassa
            
             of
             Scio.
             'T
             was
             then
             the
             Turks
             began
             to
             hope
             they
             might
             see
             a
             happy
             Turn
             of
             Affairs
             ;
             they
             remember'd
             the
             great
             Actions
             of
             the
             famous
             Visier
             of
             that
             Name
             ,
             and
             were
             persuaded
             that
             this
             Minister
             wou'd
             imitate
             so
             glorious
             a
             Example
             .
             Nor
             were
             they
             disappointed
             in
             their
             Expectation
             ;
             for
             the
             new
             
             Visier
             was
             not
             inferior
             to
             his
             Predecessor
             either
             in
             Valour
             ,
             Strength
             of
             Mind
             ,
             or
             any
             other
             Endowments
             that
             are
             necessary
             to
             fit
             a
             Man
             for
             the
             Management
             of
             Affairs
             ;
             and
             the
             Empire
             was
             quickly
             sensible
             of
             the
             Advantageous
             Influences
             of
             his
             Government
             .
             I
             have
             already
             acquainted
             you
             in
             a
             former
             Letter
             ,
             with
             the
             prosperous
             Success
             of
             their
             Arms
             during
             the
             last
             Campagne
             ,
             which
             gave
             Occasion
             to
             the
             French
             Embassador
             to
             take
             notice
             of
             the
             Sympathy
             between
             the
             two
             Empires
             ,
             and
             was
             afterwards
             solemniz'd
             by
             that
             Triumph
             of
             which
             I
             gave
             you
             a
             short
             Description
             .
             And
             therefore
             instead
             of
             troubling
             you
             with
             a
             tedious
             Relation
             of
             those
             Events
             ,
             which
             you
             have
             doubtless
             heard
             of
             ,
             and
             have
             not
             yet
             forgotten
             ;
             I
             shall
             only
             tell
             you
             ,
             that
             if
             that
             Great
             Man
             had
             not
             been
             kill'd
             at
             the
             Battle
             of
             Salankemen
             ,
             the
             Christians
             wou'd
             have
             had
             Reason
             to
             dread
             a
             fatal
             Revolution
             ,
             which
             they
             cou'd
             hardly
             have
             prevented
             any
             otherwise
             ,
             than
             by
             a
             speedy
             Peace
             .
             And
             indeed
             that
             Design
             was
             carry'd
             on
             so
             successfully
             ,
             that
             every
             one
             expected
             a
             happy
             Conclusion
             of
             their
             Negotiations
             ,
             when
             they
             were
             unfortunately
             interrupted
             by
             the
             
             Visier's
             Death
             .
             For
             he
             was
             not
             at
             all
             averse
             to
             the
             Proposal
             ,
             and
             was
             so
             far
             from
             being
             acted
             by
             that
             base
             Love
             of
             Riches
             ,
             with
             which
             the
             Turks
             are
             generally
             possess'd
             ,
             that
             ,
             contrary
             to
             the
             usual
             Maxims
             of
             his
             Predecessors
             ,
             he
             pursu'd
             no
             other
             Interest
             than
             this
             of
             the
             State.
             He
             had
             often
             discours'd
             on
             that
             Subject
             with
             
               Monsieur
               Collier
            
             ,
             the
             Dutch
             Ambassadour
             ,
             whose
             Reasons
             made
             the
             greater
             Impression
             upon
             him
             ,
             because
             of
             the
             Character
             he
             had
             receiv'd
             of
             his
             Merit
             ,
             Capacity
             ,
             and
             Dexterity
             in
             publick
             Negotiations
             .
             And
             that
             able
             Minister
             had
             prepossess'd
             the
             Mind
             of
             the
             Visier
             with
             such
             strong
             Inclinations
             to
             a
             Peace
             ,
             that
             ,
             if
             we
             may
             be
             allow'd
             to
             judge
             by
             the
             most
             promising
             Appearances
             ,
             he
             wou'd
             have
             actually
             concluded
             it
             ,
             if
             he
             had
             not
             
             been
             prevented
             by
             Death
             .
             For
             
               Monsieur
               Collier
            
             had
             made
             so
             good
             Use
             of
             such
             a
             favourable
             Opportunity
             ,
             that
             almost
             all
             the
             Articles
             were
             agreed
             on
             ,
             and
             the
             Emperour
             had
             empower'd
             the
             Prince
             of
             Baden
             to
             sign
             the
             Treaty
             ;
             and
             had
             appointed
             the
             Counts
             of
             Kinsky
             and
             Straatman
             to
             be
             his
             Assistants
             .
             The
             King
             of
             Poland
             and
             the
             Republick
             of
             Venice
             had
             also
             sent
             their
             Plenipotentiaries
             :
             but
             instead
             of
             the
             much-desir'd
             News
             of
             a
             Peace
             ,
             we
             receiv'd
             an
             Account
             of
             the
             dreadful
             Battle
             of
             Salankemen
             ,
             in
             which
             the
             Visier
             was
             one
             of
             the
             first
             that
             lost
             his
             Life
             .
             The
             Aga
             of
             the
             Janizaries
             ,
             the
             Serasquier
             ,
             and
             Ten
             other
             Bassa's
             of
             Note
             ,
             had
             the
             same
             Fate
             ;
             and
             the
             Turkish
             Army
             fled
             with
             so
             much
             Precipitation
             and
             Terrour
             ,
             that
             the
             Memory
             of
             the
             Oldest
             Men
             cannot
             furnish
             'em
             with
             an
             Instance
             of
             so
             entire
             a
             Defeat
             .
             They
             lost
             above
             20000
             Men
             ,
             all
             their
             Cannon
             and
             Baggage
             ;
             and
             ,
             in
             a
             word
             ,
             all
             they
             had
             in
             their
             Camp.
             I
             cannot
             express
             the
             Consternation
             that
             was
             spread
             over
             the
             whole
             Ottoman
             Empire
             ,
             by
             the
             surprizing
             and
             melancholy
             News
             which
             was
             brought
             into
             this
             Country
             by
             some
             that
             had
             the
             good
             Fortune
             to
             escape
             ;
             who
             never
             speak
             of
             that
             Battle
             without
             a
             certain
             Dread
             and
             Amazement
             in
             their
             Countenance
             ,
             which
             gives
             us
             a
             more
             lively
             Idea
             of
             the
             Horrour
             of
             that
             Day
             ,
             than
             the
             most
             particular
             Relation
             that
             cou'd
             be
             made
             of
             the
             Action
             .
          
           
             
               Monsieur
               de
               Chateauneuf
            
             takes
             so
             deep
             a
             Share
             in
             the
             Public
             Sorrow
             ,
             that
             I
             know
             not
             whether
             he
             cou'd
             support
             so
             terrible
             a
             Blow
             ,
             if
             the
             
             Visier's
             Death
             did
             not
             comfort
             him
             a
             little
             .
             For
             that
             Minister
             never
             had
             the
             Happiness
             of
             his
             Favour
             ,
             because
             he
             wou'd
             not
             be
             led
             by
             his
             Advice
             ;
             and
             I
             know
             a
             Man
             to
             whom
             the
             Ambassadour
             express'd
             his
             Thoughts
             in
             these
             very
             Words
             ,
             speaking
             of
             a
             Peace
             ;
             
               'T
               will
               ,
               doubtless
               ,
               be
               speedily
               concluded
               ,
            
             said
             he
             ;
             
               The
               Dutch
               Ambassadour
               is
               perpetually
               
               with
               the
               Visier
               ,
               and
               has
               got
               such
               a
               Power
               over
               him
               ,
               that
               he
               can
               undo
               in
               one
               Day
               all
               that
               I
               am
               able
               to
               do
               in
               Ten.
            
             Nor
             were
             his
             Fears
             groundless
             ,
             for
             I
             can
             assure
             you
             that
             Mr.
             Collier
             is
             perhaps
             the
             fittest
             Man
             in
             the
             World
             to
             manage
             such
             a
             Negotiation
             .
             In
             the
             first
             place
             ,
             he
             knows
             the
             Original
             of
             all
             the
             Great
             Men
             at
             the
             Port
             ,
             and
             is
             perfectly
             acquainted
             with
             their
             several
             Humours
             ,
             Intrigues
             ,
             and
             Interests
             .
             Besides
             he
             is
             the
             Son
             of
             an
             Ambassadour
             ,
             and
             from
             his
             very
             Birth
             has
             been
             enur'd
             to
             Business
             ,
             which
             by
             that
             Means
             is
             become
             so
             natural
             to
             him
             ,
             that
             he
             manages
             the
             most
             intricate
             Affairs
             with
             a
             certain
             happy
             Easiness
             that
             can
             only
             be
             acquir'd
             by
             a
             Person
             of
             so
             rare
             an
             Industry
             ,
             and
             after
             a
             long
             Residence
             at
             the
             Court.
             These
             are
             the
             Advantages
             which
             
               Monsieur
               de
               Chateauneuf
            
             wants
             :
             't
             is
             true
             ,
             he
             has
             a
             great
             deal
             of
             Wit
             ,
             and
             never
             sleeps
             away
             an
             Opportunity
             of
             Acting
             ;
             but
             after
             all
             ,
             an
             Ambassadour
             at
             his
             Arrival
             from
             France
             may
             be
             reckon'd
             almost
             as
             great
             a
             Stranger
             at
             the
             Port
             ,
             as
             if
             he
             had
             dropt
             from
             the
             Clouds
             .
             The
             Genius
             and
             Humour
             of
             that
             Nation
             is
             directly
             opposite
             to
             ours
             ,
             and
             Mr.
             Collier
             has
             studi'd
             it
             so
             carefully
             ,
             and
             understands
             it
             so
             perfectly
             ,
             that
             he
             cou'd
             easily
             give
             the
             Bassa's
             themselves
             a
             Lesson
             on
             this
             Subject
             .
             So
             that
             if
             
               Monsieur
               de
               Chateauneuf
            
             did
             not
             counter-ballance
             these
             Advantages
             with
             large
             Bags
             of
             Gold
             and
             Silver
             ,
             which
             are
             always
             wont
             to
             outweigh
             Reason
             in
             Turkey
             ,
             the
             Peace
             wou'd
             have
             been
             long
             since
             concluded
             .
             This
             puts
             me
             in
             Mind
             of
             a
             Story
             ,
             which
             will
             give
             you
             an
             Idea
             of
             the
             usual
             way
             of
             managing
             Affairs
             in
             this
             place
             .
          
           
             The
             Captain
             of
             a
             Venetian
             Ship
             ,
             who
             arriv'd
             some
             Months
             ago
             at
             Constantinople
             ,
             under
             the
             Protection
             and
             Colours
             of
             Holland
             ,
             was
             solicited
             by
             the
             French
             Ambassadour
             to
             put
             himself
             under
             his
             Protection
             ,
             and
             was
             at
             last
             allur'd
             to
             yield
             to
             
             that
             Minister's
             Request
             by
             the
             Promises
             he
             made
             him
             to
             obtain
             considerable
             Favours
             for
             him
             ,
             both
             as
             to
             the
             Entry
             and
             Exportation
             of
             his
             Goods
             .
             Mr.
             Collier
             ,
             who
             upon
             all
             Occasions
             maintains
             the
             Honour
             of
             his
             Masters
             with
             the
             highest
             Zeal
             and
             Courage
             ,
             wou'd
             not
             endure
             an
             Affront
             that
             seem'd
             to
             be
             directly
             aim'd
             at
             the
             Republic
             .
             Assoon
             as
             he
             heard
             of
             it
             ,
             he
             sent
             Orders
             to
             the
             Captain
             to
             take
             down
             the
             Banner
             of
             France
             ,
             if
             he
             was
             not
             resolv'd
             to
             suffer
             the
             utmost
             Severity
             of
             his
             just
             Indignation
             :
             but
             that
             deluded
             Officer
             slighted
             the
             Message
             ,
             and
             so
             was
             himself
             the
             Cause
             of
             all
             the
             Misfortunes
             that
             afterwards
             befel
             him
             .
             For
             after
             his
             Excellency
             had
             given
             Notice
             to
             the
             
               Grand
               Visier
            
             that
             there
             was
             a
             Prize
             in
             the
             Port
             ,
             Orders
             were
             immediately
             sent
             to
             seize
             the
             Vessel
             ,
             which
             was
             declar'd
             to
             be
             lawful
             Prize
             ;
             and
             the
             Captain
             with
             all
             the
             Seamen
             were
             put
             in
             Chains
             .
             You
             may
             easily
             conclude
             that
             the
             French
             were
             extremely
             mortifi'd
             to
             see
             a
             hundred
             Wretches
             loaded
             with
             Fetters
             ,
             and
             sold
             for
             Slaves
             ,
             meerly
             for
             setting
             up
             the
             Banner
             of
             that
             Nation
             .
             
               Monsieur
               de
               Chateauneuf
            
             receiv'd
             a
             very
             severe
             Reprimand
             from
             
               Monsieur
               de
               Pontchartrain
            
             ,
             and
             't
             was
             generally
             believ'd
             that
             his
             Indiscretion
             on
             this
             Occasion
             wou'd
             make
             him
             be
             recall'd
             from
             the
             Port.
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             he
             was
             perpetually
             at
             the
             Grand
             Visier's
             Gate
             ,
             importuning
             him
             for
             the
             Relief
             of
             the
             Ship
             and
             Mariners
             :
             but
             after
             all
             his
             earnest
             Solicitations
             ,
             he
             cou'd
             not
             obtain
             a
             more
             favourable
             Composition
             ,
             than
             that
             he
             was
             permitted
             to
             redeem
             the
             Men
             at
             the
             Rate
             of
             Fifty
             Crowns
             a-piece
             ;
             and
             the
             Ransom
             of
             the
             Ship
             was
             fix'd
             at
             Ten
             thousand
             Crowns
             ,
             which
             was
             more
             than
             its
             real
             Value
             .
             Since
             that
             time
             the
             Credit
             of
             the
             French
             Protection
             is
             extremely
             lessen'd
             ;
             and
             I
             'm
             apt
             to
             believe
             that
             few
             Captains
             will
             hereafter
             be
             guilty
             
             of
             the
             like
             Imprudence
             .
             And
             even
             I
             know
             several
             Venetian
             Captains
             who
             will
             not
             put
             themselves
             under
             the
             Protection
             of
             France
             ,
             because
             the
             Ambassadour
             has
             impos'd
             a
             Tax
             of
             Fifteen
             thousand
             Crowns
             upon
             the
             Vessels
             of
             that
             Nation
             by
             way
             of
             Reprizal
             ,
             for
             the
             Money
             he
             paid
             to
             the
             
               Grand
               Visier
            
             .
             This
             Imposition
             occasions
             a
             great
             murmuring
             among
             the
             Venetians
             ,
             who
             pretend
             that
             he
             was
             oblig'd
             in
             Justice
             to
             redeem
             the
             Vessel
             at
             his
             own
             Charge
             ,
             since
             he
             was
             the
             only
             Cause
             of
             its
             Misfortune
             .
          
           
             I
             perceive
             that
             I
             have
             insensibly
             wander'd
             from
             my
             Subject
             ,
             and
             am
             ready
             to
             acknowledge
             that
             this
             wou'd
             be
             an
             unpardonable
             Fault
             in
             an
             Exact
             and
             Methodical
             History
             :
             but
             since
             I
             only
             promis'd
             you
             a
             clear
             and
             faithful
             Account
             of
             the
             Observations
             I
             shou'd
             have
             Occasion
             to
             make
             in
             my
             Travels
             ,
             I
             do
             not
             think
             my self
             oblig'd
             to
             make
             an
             Apology
             for
             every
             little
             Digression
             .
          
           
             The
             Emperour
             Soliman
             died
             on
             the
             
               twenty
               second
            
             of
             June
             last
             :
             some
             believe
             that
             his
             Death
             was
             natural
             ,
             but
             others
             say
             that
             it
             was
             occasion'd
             by
             the
             Sultaness
             the
             Mother
             of
             Mahomet
             .
             The
             last
             of
             these
             Opinions
             is
             most
             generally
             receiv'd
             ,
             and
             wou'd
             seem
             very
             probable
             ,
             if
             it
             had
             produc'd
             any
             advantageous
             Alteration
             in
             the
             Condition
             of
             that
             unfortunate
             Prince
             ;
             but
             there
             was
             not
             the
             least
             Motion
             made
             in
             Order
             to
             his
             Restauration
             .
             Achmet
             was
             unanimously
             elected
             ,
             and
             his
             Accession
             to
             the
             Throne
             was
             attended
             with
             a
             certain
             Tranquillity
             that
             is
             rarely
             observ'd
             in
             this
             Country
             .
             The
             Misfortunes
             that
             happen'd
             in
             the
             Beginning
             of
             his
             Reign
             seem
             to
             be
             the
             Forerunners
             and
             Presages
             of
             future
             Disasters
             ;
             for
             before
             the
             first
             Month
             was
             expir'd
             ,
             he
             lost
             that
             Great
             and
             Memorable
             Battle
             of
             Salankemen
             ,
             of
             which
             I
             have
             
             already
             given
             you
             an
             Account
             .
             And
             if
             I
             may
             be
             allow'd
             to
             give
             Credit
             to
             the
             probable
             Conjectures
             of
             those
             who
             are
             best
             acquainted
             with
             the
             Genius
             of
             his
             Subjects
             ,
             I
             may
             venture
             to
             foretell
             that
             he
             will
             never
             be
             an
             old
             Emperour
             ,
             tho'
             he
             is
             already
             in
             the
             
               Eight
               and
               fortieth
            
             Year
             of
             his
             Age.
             For
             the
             Franks
             are
             possess'd
             with
             a
             less
             advantageous
             Opinion
             of
             him
             than
             of
             his
             Predecessor
             Soliman
             ,
             whose
             Reign
             was
             nevertheless
             disturb'd
             with
             an
             almost
             perpetual
             Revolt
             that
             kept
             his
             Throne
             continually
             in
             a
             tottering
             Condition
             .
          
           
             The
             Death
             of
             the
             
               Visier
               Kopergli
            
             ,
             according
             to
             the
             usual
             Custom
             of
             this
             Country
             ,
             was
             follow'd
             with
             several
             Changes
             of
             Officers
             ,
             and
             the
             Death
             of
             many
             great
             Persons
             ,
             among
             the
             rest
             of
             one
             
               Mustapha
               Aga
            
             ,
             whom
             I
             knew
             at
             Constantinople
             .
             He
             was
             born
             at
             Leghorn
             in
             Italy
             ,
             and
             had
             the
             Disadvantage
             to
             be
             descended
             of
             a
             Family
             which
             had
             no
             considerable
             Fortune
             .
             He
             was
             taken
             by
             the
             Turks
             at
             the
             Siege
             of
             Candy
             ,
             and
             renounc'd
             his
             Religion
             at
             the
             Desire
             of
             the
             
               Grand
               Visier
            
             ,
             who
             had
             a
             good
             Opinion
             of
             his
             Abilities
             ,
             and
             resolv'd
             to
             put
             him
             in
             a
             Way
             of
             Bus●ness
             .
             He
             was
             easily
             prevail'd
             with
             to
             embrace
             the
             Turkish
             Faith
             ;
             for
             since
             he
             was
             naturally
             of
             an
             aspiring
             Temper
             ,
             he
             enter'd
             with
             Joy
             into
             the
             Service
             of
             a
             Man
             by
             whose
             Interest
             he
             might
             expect
             to
             raise
             his
             Fortune
             ,
             and
             either
             out
             of
             Gratitude
             ,
             or
             Policy
             ,
             he
             chose
             always
             to
             depend
             on
             that
             Family
             .
             So
             that
             the
             late
             
               Visier
               ,
               Kopergli
               Oglou
            
             ,
             was
             his
             particular
             Patron
             ,
             and
             advanc'd
             him
             to
             the
             Tophana
             ,
             that
             is
             ,
             the
             Founding
             or
             Casting
             of
             Metals
             ,
             of
             which
             he
             was
             Directour-General
             ,
             as
             well
             as
             of
             the
             Mint
             ,
             which
             is
             the
             most
             gainful
             Post
             in
             the
             Empire
             .
             And
             besides
             he
             made
             a
             very
             considerable
             Addition
             to
             the
             usual
             Profits
             of
             that
             Office
             ,
             by
             inventing
             and
             introducing
             a
             certain
             Copper
             Coin
             ,
             call'd
             Mangours
             :
             
             for
             each
             Piece
             was
             order'd
             to
             pass
             at
             the
             Rate
             of
             six
             
               French
               Deniers
            
             ,
             tho'
             't
             was
             no
             larger
             than
             a
             
               Dutch
               Doit
            
             ,
             or
             a
             single
             
               French
               Denier
            
             ;
             so
             that
             buying
             the
             Copper
             at
             
               twenty
               Pence
            
             a
             Pound
             ,
             the
             Profit
             amounted
             to
             Six
             in
             Seven
             .
             Not
             long
             after
             the
             Advancement
             of
             
               Kopergli
               Oglou
               ,
               Mustapha
            
             propos'd
             this
             Expedient
             to
             fill
             the
             Treasury
             ,
             which
             till
             this
             time
             was
             very
             empty
             ;
             and
             had
             Orders
             to
             coin
             Four
             thousand
             Purses
             of
             that
             Money
             ,
             or
             Two
             millions
             of
             Crowns
             .
             So
             prodigious
             a
             Quantity
             of
             those
             Pieces
             cou'd
             not
             but
             occasion
             great
             Disorders
             ,
             and
             a
             general
             Interruption
             of
             Trade
             ;
             and
             besides
             those
             that
             were
             coin'd
             at
             the
             Mint
             ,
             there
             came
             several
             Barks
             laden
             with
             'em
             from
             France
             and
             Thessalonica
             ,
             where
             they
             were
             coin'd
             by
             the
             Jews
             ,
             so
             that
             there
             are
             above
             Two
             hundred
             thousand
             Crowns
             of
             Counterfeit
             Money
             at
             present
             in
             the
             Empire
             .
             At
             last
             People
             were
             so
             discourag'd
             at
             those
             Abuses
             ,
             that
             about
             three
             Months
             ago
             they
             began
             to
             refuse
             to
             take
             these
             Pieces
             for
             more
             than
             one
             half
             ,
             and
             at
             present
             they
             will
             not
             take
             'em
             at
             all
             ,
             notwithstanding
             the
             repeated
             Orders
             of
             the
             
               Grand
               Signior
            
             ,
             who
             (
             as
             I
             intimated
             before
             )
             is
             not
             much
             respected
             in
             this
             Country
             .
             The
             Disorders
             occasion'd
             by
             the
             debasing
             of
             the
             Coin
             ,
             and
             the
             vast
             Estate
             
               Mustapha
               Aga
            
             had
             acquir'd
             ,
             were
             the
             Causes
             of
             his
             Death
             .
             His
             Enemies
             had
             long
             before
             begun
             to
             exclaim
             against
             the
             Methods
             he
             took
             to
             oppress
             the
             People
             ;
             pretending
             that
             he
             was
             a
             Christian
             in
             his
             Heart
             ,
             and
             that
             he
             wou'd
             at
             last
             make
             his
             Escape
             to
             Italy
             with
             all
             the
             Treasure
             he
             had
             scrap'd
             together
             in
             the
             Empire
             ,
             which
             certainly
             had
             been
             the
             most
             prudent
             Course
             for
             a
             Man
             in
             his
             Circumstances
             .
             But
             since
             the
             Desire
             of
             Riches
             is
             like
             the
             Thirst
             of
             some
             diseas'd
             Persons
             ,
             which
             is
             encreas'd
             by
             Drinking
             ,
             instead
             of
             heark'ning
             to
             the
             Advice
             of
             his
             Friends
             ,
             he
             took
             a
             quite
             contrary
             
             Method
             ,
             and
             sent
             for
             his
             Sister
             and
             Nephews
             ,
             thinking
             by
             that
             Means
             to
             vindicate
             himself
             from
             the
             Aspersions
             that
             were
             fix'd
             upon
             him
             by
             his
             Adversaries
             .
             Besides
             he
             plac'd
             an
             entire
             Confidence
             in
             the
             
               Grand
               Visier
            
             ,
             and
             thought
             himself
             absolutely
             secure
             under
             the
             Protection
             of
             so
             kind
             and
             powerful
             a
             Patron
             :
             but
             he
             ought
             to
             have
             consider'd
             that
             his
             Patron
             was
             Mortal
             ,
             and
             that
             his
             Interest
             wou'd
             expire
             with
             his
             Life
             .
             'T
             is
             plain
             by
             the
             Event
             ,
             that
             he
             shou'd
             have
             acted
             more
             warily
             in
             so
             dangerous
             a
             Post
             ;
             for
             I
             have
             just
             now
             receiv'd
             a
             Letter
             which
             informs
             me
             that
             he
             was
             strangl'd
             ,
             after
             they
             had
             given
             him
             the
             Torture
             to
             make
             him
             discover
             his
             Money
             .
             And
             he
             was
             even
             so
             strangely
             infatuated
             ,
             that
             tho'
             he
             was
             not
             apprehended
             for
             the
             Space
             of
             Eight
             Days
             after
             the
             
             Visi●r's
             Death
             ,
             instead
             of
             making
             his
             Escape
             ,
             he
             chose
             rather
             to
             expect
             his
             Fate
             at
             his
             own
             House
             ;
             where
             he
             was
             at
             last
             arrested
             by
             the
             Caimacan
             ,
             with
             his
             Wife
             ,
             Sister
             ,
             and
             Nephews
             .
             These
             unfortunate
             Creatures
             ,
             who
             have
             not
             yet
             renounc'd
             the
             Catholic
             Religion
             ,
             sent
             to
             beg
             
               Monsieur
               de
            
             Chateauneuf's
             Protection
             for
             the
             obtaining
             of
             their
             Liberty
             :
             but
             he
             is
             too
             much
             a
             Politician
             to
             hazard
             his
             Interest
             at
             the
             Port
             to
             preserve
             the
             Honour
             of
             his
             Religion
             .
          
           
             They
             begin
             again
             to
             talk
             of
             Peace
             more
             than
             ever
             ;
             and
             I●m
             inform'd
             that
             the
             Dutch
             Ambassadour
             has
             prevail'd
             with
             the
             New
             
               Visier
               Hali
            
             ,
             to
             continue
             the
             Negotiations
             for
             that
             Effect
             at
             Adrianople
             ,
             whither
             he
             and
             the
             English
             Ambassadour
             ,
             Sir
             
               William
               Hussy
            
             ,
             will
             set
             forward
             in
             few
             Days
             ;
             and
             't
             is
             generally
             believ'd
             that
             the
             Treaty
             will
             be
             brought
             to
             a
             happy
             Conclusion
             ,
             assoon
             as
             the
             Count
             
               de
               Marsigli
            
             is
             return'd
             from
             Vienna
             ,
             whither
             he
             went
             to
             receive
             the
             Emperour's
             final
             Instructions
             :
             So
             that
             I
             hope
             I
             shall
             
             be
             able
             in
             my
             next
             to
             send
             you
             some
             considerable
             News
             .
             In
             the
             mean
             time
          
           
             I
             am
             ,
             
               SIR
               ,
            
             
               Your
               ,
               &c.
               
            
             
               Smyrna
               ,
               
                 Septemb.
                 1691.
                 
              
            
          
        
         
           
             LETTER
             XXV
             .
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
          
           
             I
             Have
             not
             forgot
             the
             Promise
             I
             made
             you
             at
             the
             End
             of
             my
             last
             Letter
             ;
             but
             I
             know
             not
             if
             you
             will
             thank
             me
             for
             keeping
             my
             Word
             ,
             since
             instead
             of
             the
             News
             I
             hop'd
             to
             send
             you
             ,
             I
             must
             acquaint
             you
             that
             the
             Negotiations
             for
             a
             Peace
             are
             at
             an
             End
             ,
             or
             rather
             interrupted
             for
             some
             time
             ;
             for
             't
             is
             so
             much
             the
             Grand
             Signior's
             Int'rest
             to
             conclude
             a
             Treaty
             ,
             that
             without
             pretending
             to
             the
             Spirit
             of
             Prophesie
             ,
             I
             may
             venture
             to
             foretel
             that
             it
             will
             be
             renew'd
             .
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             it
             will
             not
             be
             improper
             to
             give
             you
             an
             Account
             of
             this
             unexpected
             Accident
             .
             The
             English
             and
             Dutch
             Ambassadors
             arriv'd
             at
             Adrianople
             in
             the
             Beginning
             of
             the
             last
             Month
             ,
             and
             had
             several
             Conferences
             with
             the
             
               Grand
               Visier
            
             ,
             in
             which
             the
             greatest
             part
             of
             the
             Articles
             were
             mutually
             agreed
             on
             ;
             and
             the
             only
             Difficulty
             that
             obstructed
             the
             happy
             Conclusion
             of
             the
             Treaty
             ,
             was
             the
             
             Visier's
             insisting
             upon
             the
             Restoring
             of
             Buda
             ,
             and
             the
             keeping
             of
             Caminiec
             ,
             concerning
             which
             they
             expected
             Instructions
             from
             the
             Emperor
             .
             While
             Affairs
             were
             in
             this
             Posture
             ,
             the
             Plague
             began
             to
             rage
             so
             violently
             at
             Adrianople
             ,
             that
             the
             Ambassadors
             thought
             
             fit
             to
             retire
             to
             a
             Vilage
             two
             Leagues
             on
             this
             side
             the
             Town
             ,
             till
             the
             Fury
             of
             the
             Distemper
             shou'd
             be
             somewhat
             abated
             .
             But
             the
             Baron
             
               de
               Chateauneuf
            
             having
             receiv'd
             new
             Instructions
             ,
             which
             in
             all
             probability
             were
             accompany'd
             with
             some
             weighty
             Proposals
             ,
             came
             to
             Adrianople
             ,
             tho'
             he
             was
             neither
             sent
             for
             nor
             expected
             ;
             and
             without
             the
             least
             Regard
             to
             the
             preservation
             of
             his
             Life
             ,
             he
             had
             the
             Courage
             to
             brave
             Death
             in
             the
             midst
             of
             a
             City
             where
             she
             seem'd
             to
             have
             fix'd
             the
             Seat
             of
             her
             Empire
             ;
             for
             the
             Plague
             made
             so
             terrible
             a
             Havock
             ,
             that
             there
             died
             above
             a
             Thousand
             Persons
             a
             Day
             .
             At
             the
             same
             time
             it
             happen'd
             that
             Sir
             
               William
               Hussy
            
             was
             in
             a
             Gallery
             ,
             and
             perceiving
             a
             Company
             of
             Men
             in
             the
             Plain
             ,
             he
             had
             the
             Curiosity
             to
             send
             one
             of
             his
             Servants
             to
             inquire
             who
             they
             were
             .
             As
             soon
             as
             he
             heard
             that
             't
             was
             the
             French
             Ambassador
             ,
             he
             began
             to
             dread
             the
             Consequences
             of
             that
             Minister●s
             Journey
             ;
             for
             he
             consider'd
             that
             he
             wou'd
             never
             have
             expos'd
             himself
             to
             so
             imminent
             a
             Danger
             ,
             and
             even
             without
             being
             call'd
             ,
             if
             there
             had
             not
             been
             some
             hidden
             and
             extraordinary
             Design
             in
             Agitation
             .
             'T
             is
             thought
             that
             the
             French
             King
             being
             inform'd
             of
             the
             great
             Progress
             that
             was
             made
             in
             the
             Treaty
             ,
             sent
             Instructions
             to
             his
             Ambassador
             ,
             impowering
             him
             to
             conclude
             a
             secret
             Alliance
             with
             the
             Turks
             ;
             and
             't
             is
             but
             too
             plain
             that
             these
             are
             more
             than
             bare
             Conjectures
             ;
             for
             the
             Visier
             wou'd
             never
             afterwards
             hear
             the
             least
             Word
             of
             a
             Peace
             .
             However
             ,
             't
             is
             certain
             that
             Sir
             William
             Hussey's
             Vexation
             at
             so
             unexpected
             a
             Disappointment
             ,
             contributed
             not
             a
             little
             to
             his
             Death
             ;
             for
             you
             must
             not
             give
             credit
             to
             the
             Surmises
             of
             those
             who
             pretend
             that
             he
             was
             poyson'd
             ,
             since
             there
             was
             not
             the
             least
             Mark
             of
             Poyson
             found
             in
             his
             Body
             ,
             which
             was
             open'd
             by
             his
             own
             Chirurgeon
             ,
             in
             the
             presence
             of
             his
             Chaplain
             ,
             Secretary
             ,
             and
             the
             rest
             of
             his
             Domestick
             Servants
             .
             But
             tho'
             in
             all
             probability
             the
             
             French
             had
             no
             hand
             in
             this
             Gentleman's
             Death
             ,
             I
             dare
             not
             pronounce
             'em
             guiltless
             of
             the
             Attempt
             that
             was
             made
             upon
             Count
             Marsigli
             ,
             who
             was
             assaulted
             near
             Belgrade
             ,
             in
             his
             return
             from
             Vienna
             with
             his
             
               Imperial
               Majesty's
            
             Answer
             .
             His
             Chiaoux
             ,
             and
             two
             of
             his
             Servants
             ,
             were
             kill'd
             upon
             the
             Spot
             ,
             and
             he
             was
             wounded
             in
             five
             places
             both
             with
             Sabres
             and
             Pistols
             :
             But
             before
             they
             had
             time
             to
             dispatch
             him
             ,
             the
             Prince
             of
             Moldavia
             came
             seasonably
             to
             his
             Assistance
             ,
             tho'
             he
             cou'd
             not
             seize
             the
             Murderers
             ,
             because
             they
             fled
             as
             soon
             as
             they
             perceiv'd
             him
             .
             All
             these
             Circumstances
             ,
             and
             the
             Juncture
             of
             the
             Time
             ,
             make
             me
             very
             inclinable
             to
             believe
             that
             this
             Attempt
             was
             not
             made
             without
             a
             particular
             Order
             .
             I
             took
             Occasion
             Yesterday
             to
             discourse
             concerning
             this
             Accident
             with
             the
             
               Consul
               de
               Hochepied
            
             ,
             whose
             Vertue
             makes
             him
             so
             incapable
             of
             Suspicion
             ,
             that
             he
             cannot
             believe
             the
             French
             wou'd
             be
             guilty
             of
             so
             Barbarous
             an
             Action
             ;
             and
             besides
             ,
             he
             is
             persuaded
             that
             the
             Murderers
             wou'd
             have
             seiz'd
             on
             the
             Count's
             Papers
             ,
             if
             they
             had
             been
             set
             on
             by
             the
             French.
             But
             in
             my
             Opinion
             that
             Circumstance
             ought
             not
             to
             be
             alleg'd
             as
             an
             Argument
             in
             their
             Vindication
             ;
             for
             the
             seizing
             of
             the
             Papers
             wou'd
             have
             plainly
             discover'd
             the
             Authors
             of
             the
             Murder
             ;
             and
             we
             may
             reasonably
             suppose
             ,
             that
             tho'
             the
             French
             King
             takes
             no
             care
             to
             conceal
             the
             boundlesness
             of
             his
             Ambition
             ,
             he
             wou'd
             be
             loath
             to
             be
             reckon'd
             an
             Abettor
             of
             Murderers
             .
             And
             besides
             ,
             he
             might
             well
             dispense
             with
             a
             Sight
             of
             the
             Emperor's
             Orders
             and
             Count
             
             Marsigli's
             Instructions
             ,
             since
             he
             entertains
             so
             many
             Spies
             at
             the
             Port
             ,
             who
             make
             it
             their
             Business
             to
             discover
             the
             most
             secret
             Transactions
             ,
             and
             had
             in
             all
             probability
             acquainted
             him
             with
             every
             thing
             that
             related
             to
             the
             Negotiation
             .
             Thus
             Mr.
             Collier
             has
             had
             the
             Misfortune
             to
             see
             all
             his
             Hopes
             unexpectedly
             blasted
             ;
             and
             we
             may
             reasonably
             suppose
             that
             
             his
             Vexation
             is
             considerably
             heighten'd
             by
             the
             impossibility
             of
             regaining
             his
             Ground
             :
             For
             Money
             is
             the
             prevailing
             Argument
             at
             the
             Port
             ,
             and
             the
             infallible
             Rule
             by
             which
             all
             Controversies
             are
             decided
             .
             I
             cannot
             better
             represent
             the
             Genius
             of
             the
             
               Aga's
               ,
               Bassa's
            
             ,
             that
             Visiers
             that
             compose
             this
             Court
             ,
             than
             by
             comparing
             'em
             to
             a
             Company
             of
             Merchants
             ,
             who
             wou'd
             sell
             the
             very
             State
             if
             they
             cou'd
             ,
             to
             the
             highest
             Bidder
             .
             And
             the
             same
             Character
             may
             be
             universally
             apply'd
             to
             private
             Persons
             ;
             for
             Int'rest
             is
             the
             Idol
             to
             which
             they
             sacrifice
             their
             Quiet
             ,
             Honour
             ,
             Emperor
             ,
             and
             even
             the
             Empire
             it self
             .
             This
             is
             the
             fatal
             Source
             of
             all
             those
             terrible
             Disorders
             and
             Revolutions
             ,
             of
             which
             we
             find
             so
             many
             Instances
             in
             History
             ,
             that
             wou'd
             seem
             altogether
             incredible
             if
             almost
             every
             Day
             did
             not
             furnish
             us
             with
             fresh
             Examples
             of
             '
             em
             .
          
           
             There
             is
             at
             present
             in
             this
             Place
             one
             of
             Count
             
             Tekely's
             Relations
             ,
             who
             came
             lately
             from
             France
             ;
             and
             't
             is
             observable
             ,
             that
             he
             was
             not
             at
             all
             surpriz'd
             at
             the
             News
             of
             the
             unsuccessful
             Conclusion
             of
             the
             Treaty
             ,
             which
             makes
             us
             believe
             that
             he
             expected
             so
             sudden
             a
             Change
             ,
             and
             was
             not
             ignorant
             of
             the
             Causes
             of
             it
             .
             He
             lodges
             at
             the
             
             Consul's
             House
             ,
             and
             is
             just
             ready
             to
             depart
             for
             Constantinople
             ,
             where
             't
             is
             said
             he
             intends
             to
             lodge
             with
             
               Mon●ieur
               Chateauneuf
            
             .
             I
             know
             not
             what
             Treatment
             he
             expects
             from
             the
             Ambassador
             ,
             but
             I
             'm
             apt
             to
             believe
             he
             will
             not
             meet
             with
             a
             very
             Ceremonious
             Reception
             :
             For
             when
             the
             Count
             himself
             paid
             a
             Visit
             to
             the
             Ambassador
             at
             Sophia
             ,
             he
             receiv'd
             him
             in
             his
             Bed
             ,
             and
             pretended
             a
             Fit
             of
             Sickness
             ,
             to
             avoid
             the
             Ceremony
             of
             a
             formal
             Reception
             ;
             for
             there
             were
             some
             Reasons
             that
             inclin'd
             him
             to
             receive
             the
             Count
             as
             Prince
             of
             Transilvania
             ,
             as
             there
             were
             others
             that
             oblig'd
             him
             to
             treat
             him
             only
             as
             Count
             Tekely
             .
          
           
             
               The
               Triumph
               of
               a
               Christian
               that
               has
               renouned
               the
               Faith
            
          
           
           
             I
             had
             Occasion
             this
             very
             Day
             to
             see
             the
             Triumphant
             Procession
             of
             a
             Genoese
             Renegado
             ,
             who
             came
             hither
             in
             a
             Ship
             belonging
             to
             Provence
             .
             Since
             the
             Cadi's
             are
             oblig'd
             by
             the
             Chartel
             not
             to
             receive
             a
             Christian
             that
             intends
             to
             abjure
             his
             Religion
             till
             they
             have
             first
             acquainted
             the
             Consul
             of
             his
             Nation
             ,
             who
             is
             to
             examine
             whether
             his
             Apostacy
             be
             voluntary
             or
             constrain'd
             ;
             the
             Cadi
             of
             the
             City
             sent
             to
             inform
             the
             French
             Consul
             ,
             that
             a
             Frank
             who
             came
             under
             the
             Banner
             of
             France
             ,
             was
             resolv'd
             to
             turn
             Musulman
             ,
             adding
             ,
             that
             he
             might
             send
             his
             Interpreters
             to
             examine
             the
             new
             Convert
             ,
             and
             re●eive
             his
             Declaration
             .
             The
             Consul
             reply'd
             ,
             that
             he
             did
             not
             know
             the
             Man
             ,
             nor
             was
             at
             all
             concern'd
             with
             his
             Resolution
             ;
             but
             hearing
             that
             the
             Cavalcade
             was
             to
             pass
             by
             his
             Gate
             ,
             he
             sent
             Word
             to
             the
             Cadi
             ,
             that
             he
             wou'd
             take
             it
             as
             an
             Affront
             ,
             and
             order
             the
             Renegado
             to
             be
             seiz'd
             in
             the
             midst
             of
             his
             Triumph
             ,
             and
             chastis'd
             with
             five
             hundred
             Bastonado's
             .
             Nevertheless
             he
             was
             so
             far
             from
             endeavouring
             to
             execute
             his
             Menaces
             ,
             that
             he
             suffer'd
             the
             whole
             Procession
             to
             pass
             under
             his
             Windows
             without
             making
             the
             least
             Attempt
             to
             disturb
             ●em
             .
             I
             shall
             take
             this
             Occasion
             to
             give
             you
             a
             ●●ief
             Account
             of
             the
             Ceremonies
             that
             are
             us'd
             when
             a
             Christian
             intends
             to
             abjure
             his
             Religion
             .
             First
             they
             instruct
             him
             in
             the
             Principles
             of
             the
             Mahometan
             Religion
             ,
             and
             after
             a
             whole
             Month
             spent
             in
             that
             Exercise
             ,
             they
             gather
             a
             Contribution
             to
             buy
             a
             Sute
             of
             Clothes
             for
             him
             ,
             which
             sometimes
             amounts
             to
             fifty
             Crowns
             ,
             but
             rarely
             exceeds
             that
             Summ
             ;
             and
             they
             commonly
             use
             Force
             when
             People
             are
             not
             willing
             to
             contribute
             out
             of
             Charity
             .
             Then
             the
             Renegado
             is
             carry'd
             before
             the
             Cadi
             ,
             in
             whose
             Presence
             ,
             and
             of
             two
             Effendi's
             ,
             and
             several
             other
             Persons
             ,
             he
             makes
             a
             public
             Profession
             of
             his
             Faith
             with
             the
             following
             Ceremonies
             .
             First
             an
             Isman
             makes
             him
             perform
             the
             Goul
             ,
             
             which
             is
             their
             most
             Solemn
             Ablution
             ,
             and
             as
             he
             begins
             to
             wash
             himself
             ,
             he
             pronounces
             these
             Words
             ,
             
               bis
               millah
               el
               azem
               ve
               ellem
               doullillah
               allah
               din
               is
               lam
               ;
               In
               the
               Name
               of
               the
               Great
               God
               ,
               Glory
               be
               to
               God
               ,
               the
               God
               of
               the
               Musulman
               Faith.
            
             Then
             the
             Isman
             himself
             performs
             the
             Goul
             ,
             for
             they
             reckon
             themselves
             polluted
             by
             touching
             a
             Christian
             ;
             after
             which
             they
             both
             put
             on
             their
             Clothes
             ,
             and
             come
             before
             the
             Cadi
             ,
             who
             says
             to
             the
             Renegado
             ,
             
               Art
               thou
               willing
               to
               turn
               Musulman
               .
            
             After
             he
             has
             reply'd
             ,
             Yes
             ,
             the
             Isman
             takes
             the
             Alcoran
             in
             both
             his
             Hands
             ,
             and
             holding
             it
             above
             the
             Christian's
             Head
             ,
             he
             says
             first
             
               bis
               millah
               ,
               in
               the
               Name
               of
               God
            
             ;
             then
             addressing
             himself
             to
             the
             Christian
             ,
             he
             proceeds
             thus
             ;
             
               Allah
               ecber
               ,
               allah
               ecber
               ,
               allah
               ecber
               ,
               eschad
               in
               la
               illah
               ,
               illallah
               ,
               eschad
               in
               Mebemet
               resoul
               allah
            
             ;
             which
             are
             almost
             the
             same
             Words
             that
             are
             proclaim'd
             by
             the
             Muezins
             from
             the
             Minarets
             or
             Steeples
             of
             the
             Mosquees
             .
             The
             Renegado
             replies
             ,
             
               Illah
               ,
               illallah
               Mehemet
               resoul
               allah
               ;
               There
               is
               no
               other
               God
               ,
               and
               Mahomet
               is
               his
               great
               Prophet
            
             ;
             and
             as
             soon
             as
             he
             has
             made
             a
             public
             Profession
             of
             his
             Faith
             by
             pronouncing
             these
             Words
             ,
             they
             put
             a
             Turbant
             on
             his
             Head
             ,
             and
             make
             him
             kiss
             the
             Alcoran
             ,
             which
             he
             cou'd
             not
             do
             before
             without
             a
             Crime
             .
             Then
             they
             embrace
             and
             caress
             him
             ,
             and
             put
             all
             things
             in
             order
             for
             the
             Cavalcade
             ,
             having
             already
             provided
             two
             or
             three
             Hundred
             Men
             ,
             arm'd
             with
             Sabres
             ,
             Carabines
             ,
             and
             Pistols
             ,
             with
             six
             Ensigns
             ,
             two
             of
             which
             march
             before
             ,
             and
             the
             other
             four
             surround
             the
             Renegado
             ,
             who
             is
             almost
             entirely
             cover'd
             by
             '
             em
             .
             He
             is
             mounted
             on
             a
             fine
             Horse
             ,
             which
             the
             Cadi
             lends
             him
             ,
             adorn'd
             with
             a
             rich
             Vest
             ,
             which
             he
             wears
             all
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             Day
             .
             The
             Soldiers
             march
             four
             in
             a
             Rank
             ,
             expressing
             their
             Joy
             by
             loud
             Shouts
             and
             repeated
             Volleys
             of
             Shot
             ,
             the
             Renegado
             walking
             in
             the
             midst
             of
             'em
             with
             the
             Ensigns
             .
             Thus
             they
             march
             in
             a
             Triumphant
             manner
             thro'
             the
             City
             ;
             but
             all
             this
             Pomp
             is
             but
             
             an
             Introduction
             to
             the
             Scene
             of
             Pain
             ,
             for
             as
             soon
             as
             the
             Triumph
             is
             over
             ,
             they
             proceed
             to
             Circumcision
             ,
             which
             is
             thus
             perform'd
             :
             They
             draw
             their
             Prepuce
             over
             the
             Glans
             or
             Nut
             of
             the
             Yard
             ,
             and
             pressing
             it
             between
             two
             little
             Pieces
             of
             Iron
             ,
             they
             cut
             off
             with
             a
             Razor
             that
             part
             of
             the
             Fore-Skin
             which
             reaches
             beyond
             the
             Glans
             ,
             and
             at
             that
             very
             Moment
             the
             Apostate
             must
             once
             more
             repeat
             these
             Words
             ,
             
               la
               illah
               illallah
               ,
               Mehemet
               resoul
               allah
               .
            
             After
             this
             Ceremony
             ,
             the
             new
             Musulman
             must
             keep
             his
             Bed
             fifteen
             Days
             ;
             for
             the
             Cure
             of
             the
             Wound
             is
             rarely
             compleated
             sooner
             ;
             after
             which
             he
             may
             chuse
             what
             Imployment
             he
             pleases
             ;
             that
             is
             ,
             he
             may
             either
             List
             himself
             in
             the
             Army
             ,
             or
             enter
             into
             Service
             ,
             tho'
             such
             Persons
             usually
             become
             extremely
             miserable
             .
             For
             there
             is
             nothing
             more
             common
             than
             to
             see
             a
             Renegado
             begging
             ;
             and
             the
             Turks
             are
             so
             far
             from
             relieving
             'em
             in
             their
             Distress
             ,
             that
             the
             very
             Name
             of
             a
             Renegado
             is
             sufficient
             to
             make
             those
             who
             bear
             it
             hated
             and
             despis'd
             ,
             not
             only
             by
             the
             Christians
             ,
             who
             look
             upon
             'em
             as
             base
             and
             cowardly
             Apostates
             ,
             but
             even
             by
             the
             Turks
             ,
             who
             can
             never
             be
             persuaded
             by
             all
             their
             seeming
             Devotion
             that
             they
             are
             sincere
             Professors
             of
             the
             Musulman
             Faith.
             
          
           
             Thus
             ,
             Sir
             ,
             I
             have
             at
             last
             finish'd
             the
             Account
             I
             promis'd
             to
             give
             you
             of
             this
             Country
             ,
             which
             I
             intend
             to
             leave
             very
             speedily
             .
             I
             design
             to
             embark
             on
             a
             French
             Ship
             ,
             which
             ,
             with
             another
             Vessel
             of
             the
             same
             Nation
             ,
             is
             bound
             for
             Venice
             ,
             from
             whence
             I
             resolve
             to
             continue
             my
             Journey
             to
             Holland
             by
             Land
             ,
             during
             which
             I
             hope
             my
             Observations
             will
             furnish
             me
             with
             fresh
             Matter
             to
             entertain
             you
             now
             and
             then
             with
             a
             Letter
             .
             I
             thought
             to
             have
             pass'd
             by
             Thessalonica
             ,
             that
             I
             might
             have
             satisfy'd
             my
             Curiosity
             with
             a
             View
             of
             a
             very
             considerable
             Rarity
             ,
             I
             mean
             the
             Bones
             of
             a
             Giant
             that
             were
             found
             by
             some
             Work-men
             in
             
             that
             Place
             ,
             as
             they
             were
             digging
             the
             Foundations
             of
             a
             House
             for
             the
             Bassa
             .
             All
             the
             Chirurgeons
             of
             the
             Country
             have
             examin'd
             'em
             ,
             and
             have
             given
             in
             a
             formal
             Attestation
             in
             which
             they
             conclude
             that
             these
             are
             the
             real
             Bones
             of
             a
             Man
             ,
             whose
             Height
             ,
             according
             to
             their
             Computation
             ,
             amounted
             to
             above
             Twenty
             Feet
             ;
             so
             that
             this
             may
             be
             look'd
             upon
             as
             a
             Confirmation
             of
             the
             Story
             of
             the
             Giant
             at
             Spire
             in
             Germany
             .
             But
             I
             must
             e'en
             content
             my self
             with
             the
             Accounts
             I
             have
             heard
             of
             that
             Curiosity
             ,
             since
             our
             Captain
             intends
             not
             to
             touch
             at
             that
             Place
             .
             I
             shall
             have
             the
             good
             Fortune
             during
             our
             Voyage
             to
             have
             the
             Conversation
             of
             one
             
               Signior
               Stephano
            
             ,
             an
             Italian
             Engineer
             ,
             who
             having
             spent
             Eight
             or
             Ten
             Years
             in
             the
             Turkish
             Service
             ,
             is
             not
             willing
             to
             continue
             longer
             in
             so
             dangerous
             a
             Post
             .
             He
             is
             an
             ingenious
             and
             witty
             Person
             ,
             and
             will
             doubtless
             prove
             a
             very
             agreeable
             Companion
             :
             Besides
             ,
             he
             intends
             to
             carry
             his
             Wife
             along
             with
             him
             ,
             who
             is
             a
             little
             Greek
             ,
             about
             Eighteen
             Years
             old
             ,
             and
             the
             prettyest
             Creature
             in
             the
             World
             ;
             so
             that
             I
             hope
             to
             pass
             these
             Seas
             with
             more
             Pleasure
             than
             I
             did
             before
             .
          
           
             We
             have
             just
             now
             receiv'd
             the
             good
             News
             of
             Count
             Marsigli's
             Recovery
             ,
             with
             which
             I
             shall
             conclude
             this
             Letter
             .
             I
             have
             already
             told
             you
             that
             he
             was
             very
             dangerously
             wounded
             ,
             and
             am
             glad
             I
             can
             now
             inform
             you
             that
             the
             Vigour
             of
             his
             Constitution
             ,
             and
             the
             Care
             of
             his
             Physicians
             ,
             have
             happily
             restor'd
             him
             to
             his
             Health
             .
             If
             the
             Malice
             of
             his
             Enemies
             had
             succeeded
             according
             to
             their
             Desire
             ,
             the
             Emperor
             wou'd
             have
             had
             reason
             to
             bewail
             the
             Loss
             of
             a
             Man
             who
             is
             very
             well
             fitted
             for
             the
             Management
             of
             important
             Negotiations
             .
             He
             was
             born
             at
             Pisa
             in
             Italy
             ,
             and
             is
             descended
             of
             a
             very
             considerable
             Family
             ;
             but
             has
             not
             yet
             been
             dignify'd
             with
             any
             other
             Character
             than
             that
             of
             Secratary
             to
             the
             English
             Embassy
             ;
             tho'
             
             he
             is
             really
             a
             secret
             Envoy
             from
             the
             Emperor
             ,
             and
             only
             assumes
             the
             other
             Title
             that
             he
             may
             with
             more
             Security
             negotiate
             his
             Master's
             Affairs
             .
             But
             if
             the
             Peace
             were
             concluded
             ,
             he
             wou'd
             certainly
             be
             rewarded
             with
             a
             higher
             Post
             .
          
           
             I
             am
             ,
             
               SIR
               ,
            
             
               Your
               &c.
               
            
             
               Smyrna
               ,
               
                 Octob.
                 1691.
                 
              
            
          
        
         
           
             LETTER
             XXVI
             .
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
          
           
             OUR
             present
             Confinement
             puts
             me
             in
             mind
             of
             the
             eager
             Impatience
             of
             a
             Lover
             who
             sees
             ,
             but
             dares
             not
             approach
             his
             Mistress
             .
             For
             here
             we
             must
             lie
             in
             the
             Lazaretto
             ,
             and
             content
             our selves
             with
             making
             Court
             to
             the
             
               Signora
               Venetia
               Bella
            
             ,
             without
             the
             least
             hope
             of
             enjoying
             her
             Beauties
             ,
             till
             we
             have
             purchas'd
             the
             Charming
             Delight
             at
             the
             rate
             of
             Forty
             Days
             sighing
             and
             whining
             .
             We
             are
             detain'd
             here
             by
             an
             Order
             from
             the
             
               Tribunal
               of
               Health
            
             ,
             least
             we
             shou'd
             spread
             some
             Infectious
             Distemper
             ;
             and
             I
             among
             the
             rest
             am
             forc'd
             to
             bear
             this
             uneasie
             Restraint
             ,
             tho'
             I
             'm
             at
             present
             in
             as
             perfect
             Health
             as
             any
             of
             these
             Cautious
             Gentlemen
             .
             But
             perhaps
             you
             'll
             be
             more
             inquisitive
             to
             know
             how
             we
             came
             hither
             ,
             than
             how
             we
             spend
             our
             Time
             here
             ;
             and
             therefore
             I
             shall
             proceed
             to
             give
             you
             a
             short
             Account
             of
             our
             Voyage
             .
          
           
             I
             left
             Smyrna
             some
             Days
             after
             the
             writing
             of
             my
             last
             Letter
             ,
             not
             without
             a
             very
             sensible
             Affliction
             at
             my
             taking
             leave
             of
             Monsieur
             and
             Madam
             
             
               de
               Hochepied
            
             ,
             from
             whom
             I
             had
             receiv'd
             so
             many
             Favours
             and
             Civilities
             during
             my
             abode
             in
             their
             House
             .
          
           
             Our
             Voyage
             was
             disturb'd
             by
             an
             almost
             perpetual
             Storm
             ,
             which
             redoubling
             its
             Fury
             from
             Day
             to
             Day
             ,
             made
             us
             conclude
             more
             than
             once
             that
             we
             shou'd
             certainly
             be
             bury'd
             in
             the
             Waves
             .
             Poor
             
               Signior
               Stephano
            
             ,
             whom
             I
             mention'd
             in
             my
             last
             ,
             fell
             sick
             two
             Days
             after
             he
             embark'd
             ,
             and
             being
             unable
             to
             bear
             the
             tempestuous
             Working
             of
             the
             Sea
             ,
             dy'd
             Eight
             Days
             after
             .
             The
             Superstition
             of
             our
             Ship
             's
             Crew
             furnish'd
             us
             with
             a
             very
             pleasant
             Scene
             ;
             for
             they
             unanimously
             concluded
             him
             to
             be
             a
             Sorcerer
             ,
             because
             they
             had
             seen
             him
             draw
             some
             Mathematical
             Figures
             during
             the
             first
             two
             Days
             of
             our
             Voyage
             ,
             and
             were
             absolutely
             confirm'd
             in
             that
             Opinion
             by
             a
             curious
             Mechanical
             Experiment
             he
             happen'd
             to
             try
             in
             their
             presence
             ,
             by
             lifting
             up
             a
             very
             considerable
             Weight
             with
             one
             Hand
             ,
             which
             those
             thick-skull'd
             Animals
             thought
             impossible
             to
             be
             perform'd
             without
             the
             Assistance
             of
             Magic
             .
             This
             ridiculous
             Conceit
             made
             so
             strong
             an
             Impression
             upon
             upon
             'em
             ,
             that
             they
             slighted
             all
             the
             Arguments
             and
             Asseverations
             I
             cou'd
             use
             to
             undeceive
             'em
             ,
             and
             not
             only
             persist
             in
             their
             Belief
             of
             
               Signior
               Stephano's
            
             Skill
             in
             the
             Diabolioal
             Art
             ,
             but
             impute
             all
             the
             bad
             Weather
             to
             his
             Conjurations
             ▪
             The
             Captain
             pretends
             to
             be
             of
             the
             same
             Opinion
             ,
             tho'
             I
             know
             not
             how
             to
             reconcile
             his
             Complaisance
             to
             the
             young
             Widow
             to
             the
             Sentiments
             he
             seems
             to
             have
             of
             her
             Husband
             ;
             For
             he
             obliges
             her
             to
             perform
             her
             Quarantain
             on
             Board
             his
             Ship
             ,
             and
             resolves
             to
             make
             her
             his
             Wife
             .
          
           
             The
             Storm
             forc'd
             us
             to
             stand
             in
             to
             a
             Canal
             between
             two
             little
             Islands
             ,
             call'd
             Millo
             and
             Argentiere
             .
             The
             first
             is
             Forty
             Miles
             in
             Compass
             ,
             and
             the
             whole
             Country
             is
             Mountainous
             ,
             except
             a
             pleasant
             and
             fertil
             Plain
             ,
             six
             or
             seven
             Miles
             long
             ,
             in
             
             the
             midst
             of
             which
             stands
             the
             City
             of
             Millo
             ,
             containing
             about
             Twenty
             narrow
             Streets
             .
             The
             Inhabitants
             are
             generally
             Greeks
             ;
             but
             there
             are
             also
             3
             or
             400
             Souls
             of
             the
             Latin
             Church
             ,
             who
             have
             their
             Bishop
             and
             Cathedral
             .
             The
             Venetians
             maintain
             a
             Podestat
             in
             the
             Island
             to
             gather
             the
             Tribute
             ;
             but
             there
             is
             no
             Garrison
             kept
             in
             it
             ,
             tho'
             it
             receives
             frequent
             Visits
             from
             the
             Turks
             ;
             so
             that
             the
             first
             Corsair
             who
             comes
             with
             a
             numerous
             Company
             ,
             is
             King
             of
             the
             Island
             so
             long
             as
             he
             pleases
             to
             reside
             it
             it
             .
             Yet
             the
             Pyrates
             never
             commit
             any
             disorders
             in
             this
             place
             ,
             by
             reason
             of
             the
             Assistance
             they
             receive
             from
             the
             Merchants
             that
             live
             here
             ,
             who
             furnish
             'em
             with
             Commodities
             to
             be
             paid
             out
             of
             the
             next
             Prize
             that
             falls
             into
             their
             Hands
             .
             There
             is
             a
             French
             Ordinary
             in
             the
             Town
             ,
             where
             one
             may
             find
             pretty
             good
             Entertainment
             :
             And
             I
             remember
             I
             saw
             a
             Man
             there
             of
             so
             free
             and
             open
             a
             Disposition
             ,
             that
             I
             shou'd
             have
             thought
             him
             a
             Rarity
             in
             that
             Country
             ,
             if
             I
             had
             not
             been
             told
             that
             all
             these
             Islanders
             are
             generally
             of
             that
             Humour
             .
             He
             took
             occasion
             to
             Discourse
             of
             a
             Maid
             who
             was
             his
             Wife's
             Daughter
             ,
             and
             declar'd
             that
             he
             wou'd
             willingly
             dispose
             of
             her
             to
             a
             Husband
             .
             One
             who
             was
             present
             lik'd
             the
             Proposal
             ,
             and
             told
             him
             that
             he
             wou'd
             ease
             him
             of
             the
             Burden
             if
             he
             pleas'd
             to
             bestow
             her
             upon
             him
             .
             
               With
               all
               my
               Heart
            
             ,
             reply'd
             the
             Father
             :
             Then
             ,
             said
             the
             other
             ,
             
               I
               desire
               to
               know
               what
               you
               are
               willing
               to
               give
               with
               her
               .
               What
               d'
               ye
               ●ean
               ,
            
             reply'd
             the
             old
             Gentleman
             ,
             
               Give
               with
               her
               ,
               ●●oth
               '
               a
               ;
               Why
               ,
               I
               wont
               give
               her self
               for
               nothing
               .
               You
               most
               take
               me
               for
               a
               silly
               Coxcomb
               indeed
               ,
               if
               you
               think
               I
               'll
               give
               you
               a
               pretty
               lively
               Girl
               ,
               and
               hire
               you
               to
               take
               her
               ?
               No
               ,
               I
               beg
               your
               pardon
               ,
               't
               is
               you
               must
               give
               the
               Money
               :
               And
               if
               I
               can
               find
               none
               that
               will
               take
               my
               Daughter
               on
               these
               Terms
               ,
               I
               'll
               e'en
               keep
               her
               ,
               and
               make
               use
               of
               her
               my self
               .
            
          
           
           
             The
             Women
             are
             so
             accustom'd
             to
             the
             Converse
             of
             the
             Pyrates
             ,
             that
             they
             are
             generally
             very
             liberal
             of
             their
             Favours
             ,
             but
             not
             quite
             so
             frank
             as
             their
             Neighbours
             of
             Argentiere
             ,
             which
             is
             another
             little
             Island
             ,
             about
             Twenty
             Miles
             in
             Compass
             ,
             containing
             only
             a
             little
             Town
             and
             a
             Village
             ,
             both
             inhabited
             by
             about
             Five
             hundred
             Women
             ;
             for
             there
             is
             not
             a
             Man
             in
             the
             Island
             ,
             except
             Seven
             or
             Eight
             Papa's
             ,
             who
             perform
             
               Divine
               Service
            
             .
             These
             Women
             have
             no
             Trade
             to
             maintain
             'em
             ,
             but
             live
             purely
             on
             the
             Work
             of
             Nature
             ;
             so
             that
             all
             the
             Merchants
             and
             Corsairs
             ,
             who
             come
             to
             the
             Island
             ,
             chuse
             a
             Female-Companion
             ,
             either
             fair
             or
             brown
             ,
             according
             to
             every
             Man
             's
             particular
             Fancy
             .
             The
             Children
             are
             left
             to
             the
             Disposal
             of
             the
             Women
             ;
             the
             Girls
             grow
             up
             and
             work
             to
             maintain
             their
             Mothers
             ;
             but
             assoon
             as
             the
             Boys
             are
             Twelve
             Years
             old
             ,
             they
             are
             put
             on
             Board
             the
             first
             Vessel
             that
             touches
             at
             the
             Island
             .
          
           
             From
             thence
             we
             continu'd
             our
             Voyage
             to
             Zant
             ,
             a
             considerable
             Island
             belonging
             to
             the
             Venetians
             .
             It
             contains
             a
             hundred
             Miles
             in
             Compass
             ,
             and
             produces
             great
             Store
             of
             delicious
             Wines
             ,
             both
             Muscadin
             and
             other
             Sorts
             .
             But
             since
             Italy
             is
             sufficiently
             stock'd
             with
             these
             Commodities
             ,
             the
             Inhabitants
             of
             this
             Island
             dry
             most
             of
             their
             Grapes
             ,
             and
             send
             'em
             to
             England
             and
             Holland
             .
             Both
             the
             City
             and
             Harbour
             are
             commanded
             by
             a
             very
             fine
             Castle
             ,
             where
             the
             Proveditore
             ,
             who
             is
             always
             chosen
             out
             of
             the
             Principal
             Nobility
             ,
             resides
             .
             The
             Inhabitants
             are
             Rich
             ,
             and
             there
             are
             several
             Gentlemen
             among
             '
             em
             .
             This
             is
             the
             first
             place
             as
             you
             come
             from
             the
             Archipelago
             ,
             where
             you
             meet
             with
             People
             cloath'd
             after
             the
             manner
             of
             the
             Franks
             ;
             yet
             many
             of
             'em
             wear
             a
             Turkish
             Vest
             above
             their
             other
             Cloaths
             .
             The
             Venetians
             have
             built
             several
             Churches
             for
             the
             Use
             of
             those
             who
             profess
             the
             Romish
             Faith
             ;
             and
             do
             what
             they
             can
             to
             establish
             
             that
             Religion
             ,
             in
             Opposition
             to
             that
             of
             the
             Greeks
             ,
             which
             is
             the
             Religion
             of
             the
             Natives
             .
             The
             City
             is
             long
             and
             narrow
             ;
             which
             is
             all
             the
             Account
             I
             can
             give
             you
             of
             it
             ,
             for
             those
             who
             come
             from
             the
             Levant
             are
             not
             suffer'd
             to
             go
             a-shore
             till
             they
             have
             perform'd
             their
             Quarantain
             .
             The
             Prince
             of
             Brunswick
             ,
             who
             serves
             in
             the
             Army
             of
             the
             Republick
             ,
             pass'd
             the
             whole
             last
             Winter
             in
             this
             place
             ;
             and
             gain'd
             the
             Love
             of
             the
             Inhabitants
             to
             such
             a
             Degree
             ,
             that
             there
             is
             not
             a
             Man
             of
             'em
             who
             wou'd
             not
             sacrifice
             himself
             for
             his
             Sake
             .
             I
             heard
             a
             Story
             of
             that
             Prince
             ,
             which
             I
             'm
             confident
             will
             give
             you
             some
             Diversion
             .
             He
             fell
             in
             Love
             with
             a
             very
             Beautiful
             Courtezan
             ,
             who
             treated
             him
             with
             an
             extraordinary
             Coyness
             ;
             either
             because
             she
             had
             a
             particular
             Aversion
             to
             him
             ,
             or
             (
             which
             is
             the
             more
             probable
             Reason
             of
             the
             two
             )
             because
             she
             thought
             he
             was
             very
             deeply
             engag'd
             ,
             and
             intended
             to
             make
             him
             pay
             dear
             for
             a
             Favour
             which
             he
             desir'd
             with
             so
             much
             Ardour
             .
             But
             whatever
             was
             the
             true
             Cause
             of
             her
             Rigour
             ,
             the
             Prince
             persisted
             in
             his
             unsuccessful
             Courtship
             ;
             but
             his
             Patience
             being
             at
             last
             exhausted
             ,
             he
             resolv'd
             upon
             a
             Stratagem
             to
             satisfie
             at
             once
             both
             his
             Love
             and
             Revenge
             :
             There
             are
             in
             Zant
             certain
             Porters
             call'd
             Cestariols
             ,
             whose
             Business
             is
             to
             carry
             home
             the
             Provisions
             that
             are
             bought
             by
             the
             Citizens
             at
             the
             Market
             .
             The
             irritated
             Prince
             procur'd
             a
             Cestariol's
             Habit
             ,
             which
             disguis'd
             him
             so
             well
             that
             he
             had
             no
             Reason
             to
             fear
             a
             Discovery
             .
             In
             that
             Dress
             he
             went
             to
             the
             Courtezan's
             Waiting-Maid
             ,
             and
             told
             her
             ,
             that
             he
             was
             so
             passionately
             in
             Love
             with
             her
             Mistress
             ,
             that
             he
             shou'd
             certainly
             lose
             his
             Reason
             if
             she
             wou'd
             not
             suffer
             her self
             to
             be
             touch'd
             with
             a
             compassionate
             Sense
             of
             his
             Sufferings
             .
             And
             to
             engage
             the
             Maid
             to
             employ
             her
             Interest
             in
             his
             Favour
             ,
             he
             presented
             her
             with
             Ten
             Sequins
             ,
             which
             amount
             to
             about
             Five
             and
             twenty
             Crowns
             ;
             and
             
             assur'd
             her
             that
             if
             by
             her
             Assistance
             he
             cou'd
             procure
             one
             Night's
             Pleasure
             ,
             he
             wou'd
             give
             her
             as
             many
             Sequins
             more
             ,
             and
             wou'd
             besides
             reward
             the
             Signora
             so
             liberally
             ,
             that
             she
             shou'd
             never
             have
             Reason
             to
             repent
             her
             Condescension
             to
             him
             .
             The
             Maid
             was
             extremely
             surpriz'd
             at
             the
             
             Cestariol's
             Bounty
             :
             however
             she
             forgot
             not
             to
             deliver
             his
             Message
             to
             her
             Mistress
             ,
             who
             seem'd
             to
             receive
             it
             very
             coldly
             ;
             for
             she
             thought
             such
             an
             Action
             wou'd
             make
             her
             be
             look'd
             upon
             as
             a
             common
             Prostitute
             .
             But
             the
             Maid
             ,
             who
             perhaps
             was
             not
             so
             scrupulous
             ,
             and
             had
             so
             considerable
             an
             Interest
             in
             the
             Success
             of
             this
             Affair
             ,
             us'd
             all
             the
             Arguments
             she
             cou'd
             invent
             ,
             to
             perswade
             her
             Mistress
             to
             a
             Compliance
             ,
             and
             concluded
             her
             Exhortations
             with
             this
             wise
             and
             prevailing
             Remark
             ,
             That
             a
             Cestariol
             with
             a
             full
             Purse
             wou'd
             prove
             a
             better
             Customer
             than
             a
             Proveditore
             with
             an
             empty
             one
             ;
             adding
             ,
             that
             the
             Mistress
             might
             expect
             a
             very
             Noble
             Acknowledgment
             from
             one
             that
             had
             been
             so
             liberal
             to
             the
             Maid
             .
             These
             sage
             Remonstrances
             had
             so
             good
             an
             Effect
             ,
             that
             the
             Cestariol
             was
             introduc'd
             in
             the
             Evening
             to
             the
             
             Signora's
             Chamber
             ,
             where
             he
             quickly
             storm'd
             the
             Place
             that
             had
             so
             long
             withstood
             his
             Attacks
             .
             '
             Twou'd
             be
             as
             needless
             to
             give
             you
             a
             more
             particular
             Account
             of
             his
             Night's
             Work
             ,
             as
             it
             wou'd
             be
             to
             represent
             the
             Confusion
             and
             Astonisment
             that
             seiz'd
             the
             Fair
             One
             in
             the
             Morning
             ,
             when
             she
             saw
             her
             Chamber
             full
             of
             Servants
             that
             came
             to
             dress
             her
             Bed-fellow
             ,
             and
             found
             that
             the
             pretended
             Cestariol
             was
             transform'd
             into
             the
             Prince
             of
             Brunswick
             .
             However
             she
             endeavour'd
             to
             set
             the
             best
             Face
             she
             cou'd
             on
             so
             cross
             an
             Adventure
             ,
             and
             comforted
             her self
             with
             the
             Expectation
             of
             a
             magnificent
             Reward
             .
             But
             she
             cou'd
             no
             longer
             conceal
             the
             Discomposure
             of
             her
             Mind
             ,
             when
             instead
             of
             a
             Handful
             of
             Sequins
             the
             Prince
             presented
             her
             with
             Three-pence
             ,
             adding
             ,
             That
             
               if
               she
               had
               entertain'd
               
               him
               as
               a
               Prince
               ,
               he
               wou'd
               have
               paid
               her
               as
               a
               Prince
               ;
               but
               since
               she
               had
               only
               treated
               him
               as
               a
               Porter
               ,
               she
               must
               content
               her self
               with
               Porter's
               Wages
               .
            
          
           
             Departing
             from
             Zant
             ,
             we
             left
             Corfou
             on
             our
             Left-hand
             ,
             and
             enter'd
             the
             Gulf
             ,
             at
             the
             Mouth
             of
             which
             we
             lost
             our
             Long-Boat
             in
             a
             Storm
             .
             The
             Fury
             of
             the
             Tempest
             being
             somewhat
             abated
             ,
             we
             continu'd
             our
             Course
             with
             a
             Side-Wind
             ,
             and
             about
             Midnight
             perceiv'd
             ,
             by
             the
             Light
             of
             the
             Moon
             ,
             a
             Sail
             ,
             which
             pass'd
             very
             near
             our
             Ship
             without
             haling
             us
             .
             But
             she
             had
             scarce
             left
             us
             half
             a
             Mile
             when
             she
             tack'd
             about
             ,
             and
             bore
             down
             upon
             us
             with
             full
             Sails
             ;
             and
             since
             she
             was
             lighter
             than
             our
             Vessel
             ,
             she
             quickly
             came
             up
             with
             us
             .
             Our
             Captain
             concluding
             that
             she
             design'd
             to
             attack
             us
             ,
             commanded
             every
             Man
             to
             his
             Post
             ,
             and
             put
             all
             things
             in
             a
             Readiness
             for
             an
             Engagement
             ,
             swearing
             that
             he
             wou'd
             fire
             at
             her
             ,
             if
             she
             came
             nearer
             .
             Some
             of
             the
             Seamen
             endeavour'd
             to
             perswade
             him
             that
             a
             Corsair
             wou'd
             hardly
             venture
             to
             cruize
             in
             the
             Gulf
             ;
             and
             that
             if
             the
             Vessel
             we
             fear'd
             had
             had
             such
             a
             Design
             ,
             she
             wou'd
             have
             either
             fir'd
             at
             us
             ,
             or
             boarded
             us
             as
             she
             pass'd
             by
             .
             But
             he
             continu'd
             fix'd
             in
             his
             Resolution
             ,
             telling
             'em
             that
             he
             plac'd
             more
             Confidence
             in
             his
             Guns
             than
             in
             their
             Arguments
             ;
             and
             that
             if
             the
             Captain
             did
             not
             know
             his
             own
             Business
             ,
             he
             wou'd
             endeavour
             to
             instruct
             him
             .
             And
             indeed
             he
             kept
             his
             Word
             ,
             for
             assoon
             as
             cou'd
             have
             a
             full
             Aim
             to
             point
             his
             Guns
             at
             her
             Side
             ,
             he
             gave
             her
             a
             Broad-side
             ,
             and
             tacking
             about
             ,
             rak'd
             her
             fore
             and
             aft
             :
             but
             it
             seems
             she
             was
             better
             acquainted
             with
             the
             Rules
             of
             Good-breeding
             than
             we
             expected
             ,
             for
             she
             quickly
             return'd
             our
             Compliment
             with
             the
             same
             Ceremonies
             ,
             and
             then
             bore
             away
             .
             Our
             Cabbin
             was
             pierc'd
             with
             a
             Shot
             ,
             which
             was
             all
             the
             Dammage
             we
             receiv'd
             ,
             except
             the
             breaking
             of
             a
             Barrel
             of
             excellent
             Wine
             ,
             which
             I
             had
             provided
             
             at
             Zant
             for
             my
             own
             Use
             ,
             during
             the
             Quarantain
             .
          
           
             Two
             Days
             after
             we
             made
             the
             Height
             of
             Ragusa
             ,
             which
             is
             a
             considerable
             City
             seated
             on
             the
             Sea-side
             ;
             Toward
             the
             Sea
             't
             is
             defended
             by
             a
             strong
             Cittadel
             ,
             and
             on
             the
             other
             Side
             by
             a
             high
             and
             inaccessible
             Mountain
             .
             It
             s
             Figure
             is
             almost
             round
             ,
             and
             its
             Circuit
             exceeds
             not
             two
             Miles
             .
             The
             Houses
             are
             generally
             pretty
             well
             built
             ;
             but
             there
             are
             none
             that
             deserve
             a
             particular
             Observation
             .
             The
             Government
             is
             Aristocratical
             ,
             not
             much
             different
             from
             that
             of
             Venice
             ,
             only
             its
             Weakness
             makes
             it
             act
             more
             cautiously
             for
             the
             Preservation
             of
             its
             Liberty
             .
             The
             Senate
             is
             compos'd
             of
             Gentlemen
             and
             a
             Doge
             :
             but
             this
             Dignity
             instead
             of
             continuing
             for
             Life
             ,
             as
             at
             Venice
             ,
             lasts
             but
             a
             Month
             ,
             after
             which
             a
             New
             Doge
             is
             Elected
             with
             so
             little
             Intriguing
             ,
             that
             oftentimes
             a
             Gentleman
             walking
             in
             the
             Public
             Place
             ,
             is
             surpriz'd
             with
             the
             News
             of
             his
             Election
             .
             During
             the
             time
             of
             his
             Government
             he
             is
             serv'd
             and
             entertain'd
             at
             the
             Public
             Charge
             ,
             after
             which
             he
             returns
             home
             to
             dress
             his
             Garden
             .
             Since
             the
             Government
             of
             the
             Castle
             is
             a
             more
             important
             Office
             ,
             and
             the
             Ill-management
             of
             it
             might
             prove
             more
             fatal
             to
             the
             Republic
             ,
             it
             lasts
             not
             so
             long
             as
             the
             former
             :
             for
             a
             New
             Governour
             is
             chosen
             every
             Night
             ,
             and
             oblig'd
             to
             remain
             in
             the
             Castle
             till
             his
             Successour
             come
             to
             relieve
             him
             .
             So
             that
             the
             Nobles
             reckon
             this
             Commission
             rather
             a
             Trouble
             than
             an
             Honour
             ;
             and
             wou'd
             be
             as
             glad
             to
             be
             exempted
             from
             it
             ,
             as
             a
             Captain
             wou'd
             be
             pleas'd
             to
             be
             excus'd
             from
             mounting
             the
             Guard.
             The
             Garrison
             consists
             of
             Two
             hundred
             Men
             ,
             and
             besides
             the
             Burgers
             are
             oblig'd
             to
             keep
             Guard
             with
             '
             em
             .
             The
             Gentlemen
             are
             exempted
             from
             that
             Trouble
             ,
             but
             they
             must
             not
             lie
             one
             Night
             out
             of
             the
             City
             without
             a
             special
             Permission
             .
             S.
             Blaise
             is
             the
             Patron
             of
             Ragusa
             ,
             as
             S.
             Mark
             is
             of
             Venice
             :
             and
             is
             painted
             on
             
             their
             Banners
             and
             Ensigns
             ,
             and
             wherever
             't
             is
             the
             Custom
             to
             place
             the
             Arms
             of
             the
             Republic
             .
             A
             Mile
             from
             the
             Town
             towards
             the
             Mouth
             of
             the
             Gulf
             ,
             stands
             the
             ancient
             City
             of
             Ragusa
             ,
             which
             at
             present
             is
             call'd
             
               Ragusa
               Vecchio
            
             .
             'T
             is
             inhabited
             by
             some
             poor
             People
             ,
             and
             seems
             rather
             to
             be
             a
             Village
             than
             a
             City
             .
             The
             whole
             Territory
             of
             Ragusa
             extends
             not
             Thirty
             Miles
             round
             the
             City
             ,
             and
             at
             Sea
             they
             are
             only
             possess'd
             of
             the
             Island
             of
             Augusta
             .
             This
             little
             Republic
             makes
             a
             great
             Noise
             with
             a
             certain
             imaginary
             Liberty
             ,
             of
             which
             the
             Ragusans
             are
             extremely
             fond
             ,
             tho'
             really
             they
             are
             not
             Masters
             of
             themselves
             ;
             for
             they
             are
             absolutely
             commanded
             by
             the
             Venetians
             ,
             and
             must
             do
             what
             whatever
             they
             please
             .
             The
             Turk
             and
             Emperour
             content
             themselves
             with
             a
             moderate
             Tribute
             ,
             without
             medling
             with
             the
             Affairs
             of
             the
             Republic
             ;
             but
             if
             the
             Payment
             be
             delay'd
             ,
             the
             Ragusans
             run
             the
             the
             Hazard
             of
             paying
             dear
             for
             their
             Neglect
             .
             And
             besides
             they
             are
             on
             several
             Occasions
             insulted
             over
             by
             the
             French
             King
             ,
             and
             other
             European
             Princes
             ;
             and
             must
             tamely
             suffer
             the
             greatest
             Abuses
             ,
             without
             daring
             to
             repine
             at
             the
             Hand
             which
             oppresses
             '
             em
             .
             I
             have
             all
             along
             observ'd
             ,
             during
             the
             whole
             Course
             of
             my
             Travels
             ,
             that
             one
             may
             find
             every-where
             fresh
             Instances
             of
             the
             Folly
             and
             Weakness
             of
             human
             Nature
             :
             and
             the
             very
             Sight
             of
             this
             Place
             is
             sufficient
             to
             put
             a
             Man
             in
             mind
             of
             that
             Reflexion
             .
             For
             't
             is
             certain
             that
             the
             Liberty
             or
             Independency
             of
             the
             Ragusans
             ,
             as
             well
             as
             of
             several
             other
             States
             ,
             is
             their
             greatest
             Misfortune
             ;
             and
             that
             they
             wou'd
             be
             infinitely
             more
             happy
             under
             the
             Dominion
             of
             some
             potent
             Master
             ,
             that
             cou'd
             protect
             'em
             from
             all
             the
             Injuries
             and
             Affronts
             which
             they
             are
             daily
             oblig'd
             to
             suffer
             without
             the
             least
             Hope
             of
             Redress
             .
             And
             I
             'm
             confident
             ,
             if
             you
             consider
             ,
             without
             Prejudice
             ,
             the
             Advantages
             on
             both
             sides
             ,
             you
             will
             conclude
             with
             me
             ,
             That
             ,
             notwithstanding
             
             their
             boasted
             Liberty
             ,
             a
             Wise
             Man
             wou'd
             rather
             chuse
             to
             be
             a
             Subject
             of
             Venice
             ,
             than
             to
             be
             a
             Free
             Citizen
             of
             Ragusa
             .
             But
             to
             return
             to
             my
             Voyage
             .
          
           
             The
             Wind
             coming
             fair
             ,
             we
             left
             Ragusa
             ,
             and
             the
             next
             Morning
             we
             came
             to
             an
             Anchor
             in
             the
             Harbour
             of
             the
             little
             City
             Parenzo
             in
             Istria
             ,
             where
             we
             took
             a
             Pilot.
             For
             the
             Republick
             keeps
             always
             a
             sufficient
             Number
             of
             Pilots
             in
             this
             place
             ,
             for
             the
             Conveniency
             of
             Ships
             that
             are
             bound
             for
             Venice
             ;
             which
             are
             oblig'd
             to
             have
             Recourse
             to
             their
             Assistance
             ,
             because
             from
             thence
             to
             the
             Lagunes
             the
             Passage
             is
             extremely
             hazardous
             ,
             by
             reason
             of
             the
             Banks
             of
             Sand
             that
             are
             form'd
             by
             the
             Rivers
             Po
             and
             Brent
             at
             their
             Falling
             into
             the
             Sea.
             These
             Banks
             are
             so
             dangerous
             ,
             and
             subject
             to
             so
             frequent
             Alterations
             ,
             that
             the
             most
             skilful
             Pilots
             ,
             who
             are
             acquainted
             with
             every
             Rock
             and
             Shoal
             in
             the
             Passage
             ,
             are
             forc'd
             to
             steer
             perpetually
             with
             a
             Line
             in
             their
             Hand
             ,
             for
             fear
             of
             some
             fatal
             Blunder
             ,
             which
             wou'd
             certainly
             be
             punish'd
             with
             Death
             .
             The
             Difficulty
             of
             the
             Passage
             is
             a
             very
             considerable
             Disadvantage
             and
             Obstruction
             to
             Trade
             ;
             but
             it
             may
             be
             reckon'd
             the
             main
             Security
             of
             Venice
             ,
             which
             cannot
             be
             attack'd
             on
             that
             Side
             .
             For
             tho'
             a
             Fleet
             of
             Ships
             shou'd
             be
             conducted
             to
             Malamoca
             by
             Venetian
             Pilots
             ,
             't
             wou'd
             be
             impossible
             for
             'em
             to
             ride
             there
             ,
             by
             reason
             of
             the
             stormy
             Gusts
             that
             happen
             so
             frequently
             in
             that
             place
             .
          
           
             After
             the
             charming
             View
             of
             Constantinople
             from
             the
             Sea
             of
             Marmora
             ,
             I
             never
             beheld
             a
             finer
             Prospect
             than
             that
             of
             Venice
             .
             At
             the
             Distance
             of
             Thirty
             Miles
             you
             begin
             to
             perceive
             the
             Spires
             of
             the
             Churches
             ,
             and
             the
             Prospect
             is
             still
             enlarg'd
             the
             nearer
             you
             approach
             ;
             which
             gives
             the
             ravish'd
             Spectatour
             the
             Idea
             of
             a
             Great
             City
             springing
             out
             of
             the
             Water
             .
             Nor
             can
             you
             possibly
             free
             your self
             from
             this
             pleasant
             Delusion
             of
             the
             Fancy
             till
             
             you
             have
             enter'd
             the
             Town
             ;
             for
             all
             the
             outer
             Houses
             of
             the
             City
             are
             founded
             on
             Piles
             in
             the
             midst
             of
             the
             Water
             .
             The
             Port
             of
             Venice
             is
             a
             large
             Plain
             cover'd
             with
             Water
             ,
             in
             which
             there
             are
             certain
             Islands
             or
             Rising-Grounds
             ,
             level
             with
             the
             Water
             ,
             on
             the
             biggest
             of
             which
             Venice
             is
             built
             .
             most
             of
             the
             other
             Islands
             are
             also
             cover'd
             with
             Buildings
             ,
             and
             make
             particular
             Towns
             ;
             the
             most
             considerable
             of
             which
             is
             call'd
             Judeca
             ,
             or
             the
             Jews
             Quarter
             .
             'T
             is
             said
             to
             contain
             Forty
             thousand
             Souls
             ;
             the
             Houses
             are
             fair
             ,
             and
             there
             are
             large
             Gardens
             ,
             whither
             the
             Inhabitants
             go
             to
             divert
             themselves
             during
             the
             Summer
             ,
             and
             are
             accommodated
             with
             all
             sorts
             of
             Provisions
             ,
             cool
             Liquors
             ,
             and
             oftentimes
             with
             very
             agreeable
             Company
             .
          
           
             The
             curious
             Traveller
             ought
             also
             to
             take
             a
             View
             of
             the
             Island
             of
             Mouran
             ,
             where
             the
             fine
             Looking-Glasses
             are
             made
             that
             are
             so
             famous
             over
             all
             Europe
             ;
             besides
             several
             other
             Curious
             Works
             in
             Glass
             and
             Crystal
             .
          
           
             These
             Islands
             are
             call'd
             Lacunes
             or
             Lagunes
             ,
             both
             such
             as
             are
             ,
             and
             such
             as
             are
             not
             ,
             inhabited
             .
             Two
             of
             'em
             are
             set
             apart
             for
             the
             use
             of
             those
             who
             come
             from
             the
             Levant
             ,
             where
             they
             are
             oblig'd
             to
             perform
             their
             Quarantain
             in
             certain
             large
             Hospitals
             ,
             call'd
             Lazaretti
             .
             The
             first
             ,
             call'd
             
               Lazaretto
               Vecchio
            
             ,
             is
             but
             a
             Mile
             distant
             from
             Venice
             ;
             but
             the
             other
             ,
             where
             we
             are
             confin'd
             ,
             is
             five
             Miles
             from
             the
             City
             .
             'T
             is
             one
             continu'd
             Building
             ,
             consisting
             of
             two
             Stories
             ,
             300
             Paces
             long
             ,
             and
             divided
             by
             High
             Walls
             into
             six
             Apartments
             ,
             each
             of
             which
             has
             a
             particular
             Gate
             that
             leads
             into
             a
             Square
             Court
             ,
             where
             there
             is
             a
             Well
             ,
             but
             the
             Water
             is
             so
             bad
             ,
             that
             we
             never
             use
             any
             but
             what
             is
             brought
             from
             Venice
             .
             Every
             Apartment
             contains
             Twenty
             Chambers
             ,
             Ten
             above
             ,
             and
             as
             many
             below
             ,
             separated
             like
             Cells
             ,
             with
             a
             Chimney
             in
             each
             .
             Those
             who
             perform
             their
             Quarantain
             are
             constantly
             attended
             by
             a
             Guardian
             or
             
             Keeper
             ,
             sent
             for
             that
             purpose
             by
             the
             
               Tribunal
               of
               Health
            
             .
             And
             we
             have
             the
             Misfortune
             to
             be
             plagu'd
             with
             one
             who
             mortifies
             us
             extremely
             :
             For
             he
             not
             only
             denies
             us
             the
             Liberty
             of
             conversing
             familiarly
             with
             those
             who
             come
             to
             see
             us
             ,
             but
             will
             not
             suffer
             us
             to
             approach
             within
             Ten
             Paces
             of
             'em
             ;
             and
             besides
             ,
             they
             are
             oblig'd
             to
             take
             the
             Wind
             of
             us
             .
             No
             Person
             whatsoever
             ,
             nor
             even
             the
             Doge
             himself
             ,
             is
             exempted
             from
             these
             troublesome
             Severities
             ,
             which
             are
             appointed
             for
             the
             Publick
             Security
             ,
             and
             for
             the
             Preservation
             of
             the
             City
             from
             contagious
             Distempers
             .
             But
             tho'
             we
             are
             not
             permitted
             to
             entertain
             those
             who
             are
             without
             the
             Lazaretto
             ,
             there
             are
             some
             things
             which
             they
             are
             allow'd
             to
             receive
             from
             us
             ,
             such
             as
             Bread
             ,
             Wine
             ,
             Vessels
             ,
             Tobacco
             ,
             Money
             ,
             Wood
             ,
             and
             generally
             every
             thing
             that
             does
             not
             consist
             of
             Threads
             .
             And
             yet
             ,
             which
             in
             my
             Opinion
             is
             the
             most
             intolerable
             piece
             of
             Nicety
             in
             the
             World
             ,
             they
             will
             not
             suffer
             a
             Letter
             to
             come
             out
             of
             our
             Hands
             till
             it
             be
             open'd
             and
             smoak'd
             :
             And
             I
             was
             even
             forc'd
             to
             open
             
               Monsieur
               de
               Hochepied's
            
             Letters
             to
             his
             Friends
             in
             Holland
             ;
             so
             that
             I
             shall
             be
             oblig'd
             to
             deliver
             'em
             unseal'd
             to
             the
             Persons
             to
             whom
             they
             are
             directed
             .
             When
             a
             Man
             comes
             to
             lodge
             in
             one
             of
             these
             Rooms
             ,
             he
             finds
             nothing
             but
             Four
             bare
             Walls
             ,
             and
             must
             therefore
             buy
             an
             entire
             Set
             of
             necessary
             Furniture
             :
             But
             as
             for
             Provisions
             ,
             there
             are
             Barcarioli
             ,
             who
             bring
             whatever
             you
             call
             for
             ,
             allowing
             'em
             a
             third
             part
             of
             the
             Price
             for
             their
             Pains
             .
             Every
             Man
             must
             be
             his
             own
             Cook
             ,
             a
             Disadvantage
             which
             is
             more
             easily
             supported
             here
             than
             any
             where
             else
             ;
             for
             our
             Time
             is
             so
             great
             a
             Burthen
             to
             us
             ,
             that
             we
             are
             glad
             of
             any
             Occupation
             ;
             and
             that
             which
             in
             another
             Place
             would
             be
             reckon'd
             a
             Trouble
             ,
             is
             esteem'd
             a
             Recreation
             here
             .
             The
             Lazaretto
             is
             govern'd
             by
             a
             Prior
             ,
             appointed
             by
             the
             
               Tribunal
               of
               Health
            
             .
             His
             Revenue
             amounts
             to
             a
             Thousand
             Ducats
             ,
             
             worth
             about
             3
             s.
             9
             d.
             a-piece
             .
             He
             is
             entrusted
             with
             the
             Keys
             of
             the
             six
             Apartments
             ,
             which
             are
             kept
             shut
             from
             Sun-setting
             till
             Eight
             a-Clock
             in
             the
             Morning
             .
             The
             Guardians
             are
             under
             his
             Command
             ,
             and
             are
             oblig'd
             to
             give
             him
             an
             Account
             of
             every
             thing
             .
             There
             are
             120
             of
             'em
             in
             Office
             ,
             who
             are
             employ'd
             by
             Turns
             ,
             according
             to
             the
             Number
             of
             Ships
             that
             arrive
             in
             the
             Port.
             Their
             Salary
             ,
             which
             amounts
             to
             half
             a
             Ducat
             a-Day
             ,
             besides
             their
             Entertainment
             ,
             is
             not
             paid
             by
             the
             Republic
             ,
             but
             by
             a
             Tax
             laid
             upon
             the
             Passengers
             and
             Goods
             that
             are
             committed
             to
             their
             Care.
             In
             the
             same
             Lagune
             there
             is
             a
             large
             Enclosure
             where
             the
             Goods
             are
             laid
             in
             a
             sort
             of
             Stalls
             or
             Market-Houses
             ,
             supported
             by
             Pillars
             without
             Walls
             ,
             and
             open
             on
             all
             Sides
             .
             And
             there
             are
             Faquini
             or
             Porters
             appointed
             to
             remove
             'em
             from
             time
             to
             time
             ,
             and
             to
             take
             care
             that
             nothing
             be
             lost
             or
             damag'd
             .
          
           
             You
             have
             doubtless
             heard
             of
             the
             great
             Number
             of
             Spies
             that
             are
             kept
             by
             the
             Senate
             to
             give
             notice
             of
             every
             thing
             that
             is
             said
             or
             done
             against
             the
             Government
             .
             These
             Informers
             are
             a
             horrible
             Plague
             to
             those
             who
             are
             under
             the
             Dominion
             of
             this
             Republick
             ,
             as
             well
             natural
             Venetians
             as
             Greeks
             .
             For
             the
             least
             Offence
             exposes
             a
             Man
             to
             the
             Severity
             of
             the
             Inquisition
             of
             the
             State
             ,
             which
             is
             at
             least
             as
             terrible
             a
             Tribunal
             as
             that
             of
             Rome
             .
             Nor
             is
             it
             possible
             for
             a
             Man
             to
             know
             when
             he
             shou'd
             be
             upon
             his
             Guard
             ;
             for
             those
             who
             profess
             the
             greatest
             Friendship
             and
             Fidelity
             ,
             are
             oftentimes
             mere
             Informers
             .
             And
             besides
             ,
             there
             are
             Spies
             of
             all
             Ranks
             and
             Orders
             ;
             Servants
             ,
             Merchants
             ,
             Officers
             ,
             Citizens
             ,
             and
             Nobles
             ,
             who
             disguise
             themselves
             with
             so
             much
             Care
             and
             Dexterity
             ,
             that
             't
             is
             impossible
             to
             penetrate
             into
             their
             hidden
             Designs
             .
             The
             Republic
             is
             so
             cautious
             in
             preventing
             Discoveries
             of
             this
             Nature
             ,
             that
             those
             who
             undertake
             such
             a
             Commission
             
             are
             enjoyn'd
             to
             conceal
             it
             even
             from
             their
             Wives
             and
             Children
             ,
             under
             pain
             of
             suffering
             the
             most
             rigorous
             Penalties
             .
             And
             the
             Scandal
             and
             Odium
             that
             attends
             their
             Profession
             is
             alone
             sufficient
             to
             oblige
             'em
             to
             Secresie
             ,
             tho'
             they
             were
             not
             kept
             in
             awe
             by
             the
             Fear
             of
             Punishment
             .
             This
             breeds
             an
             universal
             Diffidence
             and
             Shieness
             among
             all
             sorts
             of
             People
             ,
             and
             makes
             'em
             extremely
             reserv'd
             in
             discovering
             their
             Sentiments
             to
             one
             another
             ,
             especially
             in
             the
             presence
             of
             certain
             Persons
             who
             are
             more
             particularly
             suspected
             ,
             such
             as
             Monks
             ,
             and
             the
             
               Guardians
               of
               Health
            
             in
             the
             Lazaretti
             ,
             who
             are
             generally
             reckon'd
             to
             be
             the
             Inquisitor's
             Spies
             ,
             and
             I
             believe
             not
             without
             reason
             ,
             as
             you
             will
             perceive
             by
             the
             Relation
             of
             an
             Accident
             that
             happen'd
             to
             my self
             .
          
           
             As
             soon
             as
             a
             Vessel
             enters
             the
             Port
             ,
             the
             
               Tribunal
               of
               Health
            
             sends
             immediately
             a
             Guardian
             with
             a
             Phanti
             on
             board
             to
             conduct
             the
             Passengers
             to
             the
             Lazaretto
             ,
             that
             no
             time
             may
             be
             lost
             ;
             for
             the
             Quarantain
             is
             not
             reputed
             to
             begin
             till
             the
             Day
             after
             they
             come
             a-shore
             .
             But
             tho'
             this
             Custom
             is
             very
             exactly
             observ'd
             on
             all
             Occasions
             ,
             there
             arose
             a
             Dispute
             in
             our
             Ship
             about
             some
             Matters
             relating
             to
             Trade
             ,
             that
             retarded
             our
             Landing
             Four
             Days
             ,
             which
             consequently
             were
             not
             reckon'd
             in
             the
             Forty
             Days
             of
             our
             Quarantain
             .
             This
             Delay
             occasion'd
             a
             general
             Discontent
             among
             us
             ,
             and
             we
             were
             the
             more
             sensibly
             afflicted
             ,
             because
             we
             neither
             foresaw
             nor
             knew
             how
             to
             remedy
             our
             Misfortunes
             .
             However
             ,
             the
             Greeks
             and
             Venetians
             whom
             he
             had
             take
             on
             board
             at
             Zant
             ,
             conceal'd
             their
             Resentments
             with
             all
             possible
             Care.
             But
             I
             who
             was
             not
             so
             well
             acquainted
             with
             the
             Customs
             of
             the
             Place
             ,
             and
             perhaps
             am
             naturally
             of
             too
             free
             a
             Humour
             ,
             cou'd
             not
             forbear
             complaining
             of
             this
             Injustice
             that
             was
             done
             us
             ,
             and
             was
             even
             so
             far
             transported
             ,
             that
             I
             express'd
             my
             Impatience
             and
             Indignation
             in
             very
             
             bold
             and
             emphatic
             Terms
             .
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             I
             was
             extremely
             surpriz'd
             to
             perceive
             an
             universal
             Silence
             among
             those
             who
             heard
             me
             ,
             and
             was
             so
             vex'd
             to
             find
             that
             none
             of
             'em
             wou'd
             join
             with
             me
             ,
             that
             at
             last
             I
             held
             my
             Peace
             .
             An
             Hour
             after
             ,
             the
             Captain
             took
             me
             aside
             ,
             and
             told
             me
             that
             I
             was
             ruin'd
             :
             I
             entreated
             him
             to
             let
             me
             know
             the
             reason
             that
             made
             him
             give
             me
             so
             unwelcom
             an
             Admonition
             :
             Because
             ,
             reply'd
             he
             ,
             
               you
               have
               spoken
               disadvantageously
               of
               the
               Government
               before
               a
               Guardian
               ,
               who
               is
               certainly
               an
               Informer
            
             ;
             adding
             ,
             that
             he
             wou'd
             not
             have
             spoken
             so
             freely
             for
             a
             Hundred
             thousand
             Crowns
             .
             Then
             he
             related
             five
             or
             six
             Tragical
             Stories
             of
             Persons
             that
             had
             lost
             their
             Lives
             for
             less
             provoking
             Crimes
             ,
             and
             added
             so
             many
             Arguments
             to
             convince
             me
             of
             my
             Danger
             ,
             that
             I
             began
             to
             be
             afraid
             in
             good
             earnest
             ,
             and
             to
             complain
             of
             his
             Unkindness
             in
             not
             giving
             me
             more
             timely
             warning
             .
             He
             reply'd
             ,
             that
             he
             ne'er
             thought
             of
             it
             ,
             and
             that
             he
             cou'd
             not
             imagine
             me
             to
             be
             ignorant
             of
             a
             thing
             that
             was
             so
             universally
             known
             .
             
               The
               only
               way
               I
               can
               suggest
               to
               you
               ,
            
             added
             he
             ,
             
               to
               prevent
               your
               Ruine
               ,
               is
               to
               be
               silent
               for
               the
               future
               ,
               and
               to
               bribe
               the
               Guardian
               with
               a
               Present
               ,
               which
               perhaps
               will
               stop
               his
               Mouth
               .
            
             In
             pursuance
             of
             his
             Advice
             ,
             I
             gave
             the
             Guardian
             two
             Sequins
             ,
             and
             endeavour'd
             to
             oblige
             him
             by
             all
             the
             Marks
             of
             Friendship
             and
             Kindness
             during
             the
             two
             days
             we
             remain'd
             on
             Board
             after
             that
             Accident
             .
             Yet
             after
             all
             ,
             he
             inform'd
             against
             me
             ,
             at
             least
             I
             had
             reason
             to
             suspect
             him
             ;
             for
             the
             Prior
             told
             me
             t'other
             Day
             ,
             that
             the
             Inquisitor
             had
             spoken
             concerning
             me
             ,
             and
             had
             signify'd
             to
             him
             ,
             that
             there
             was
             a
             very
             turbulent
             and
             impatient
             Frenchman
             in
             his
             Lazaretto
             .
             This
             Reprimand
             abated
             ,
             instead
             of
             encreasing
             ,
             my
             Fears
             ,
             for
             the
             Inquisitor
             wou●d
             not
             have
             spoken
             to
             the
             Prior
             ,
             if
             he
             had
             intended
             to
             punish
             my
             Boldness
             .
             However
             ,
             this
             Accident
             shall
             teach
             me
             Circumspection
             for
             the
             future
             ;
             and
             may
             serve
             
             for
             a
             Warning
             to
             such
             of
             your
             Friends
             whose
             Curiosity
             may
             incite
             'em
             to
             visit
             this
             Place
             in
             their
             Travels
             :
             For
             Strangers
             are
             in
             a
             more
             particular
             manner
             expos'd
             to
             the
             Severities
             of
             that
             dreadful
             Tribunal
             ;
             and
             I
             'm
             persuaded
             that
             such
             indiscreet
             Expressions
             have
             oftentimes
             prov'd
             fatal
             to
             Travellers
             .
          
           
             I
             am
             ,
             
               SIR
               ,
            
             
               Your
               ,
               &c.
               
            
             
               Lazaretto
               at
               Venice
               ,
               
                 Decemb.
                 1691.
                 
              
            
          
        
         
           
             LETTER
             XXVII
             .
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
          
           
             AT
             last
             I
             have
             obtain'd
             my
             Liberty
             ,
             and
             have
             bidden
             a
             joyful
             Farewel
             to
             that
             nasty
             Lazaretto
             ,
             where
             I
             was
             forc'd
             to
             do
             so
             tedious
             a
             Penance
             for
             my
             Sins
             .
             And
             since
             I
             have
             reason
             to
             believe
             that
             all
             my
             Transgressions
             are
             blotted
             out
             by
             so
             severe
             a
             Mortification
             ,
             I
             'm
             e'en
             resolv'd
             to
             venture
             upon
             a
             New
             Score
             :
             There
             is
             not
             a
             Town
             in
             the
             World
             so
             full
             of
             Invitations
             as
             this
             :
             I
             see
             every
             Day
             such
             charming
             and
             enflaming
             Objects
             at
             the
             
               Opera
               ,
               Ridotti
            
             ,
             and
             whither
             so
             ever
             I
             go
             ,
             that
             a
             less
             sensible
             Heart
             than
             mine
             cou'd
             not
             long
             resist
             the
             powerful
             Temptation
             .
             There
             is
             a
             greater
             Number
             of
             lovely
             Women
             here
             than
             in
             any
             other
             Place
             of
             Europe
             ,
             and
             their
             Charms
             are
             more
             alluring
             .
             Three
             Divinities
             seem
             to
             contend
             which
             of
             'em
             shou'd
             contribute
             most
             to
             the
             Embellishment
             of
             a
             City
             where
             they
             have
             fix'd
             the
             Seats
             of
             their
             several
             Empires
             .
             Venus
             makes
             it
             the
             Scene
             of
             all
             
             the
             soft
             Delights
             of
             Beauty
             and
             Love
             ;
             Apollo
             displays
             the
             ravishing
             Variety
             of
             his
             belov'd
             Harmony
             ;
             and
             Momus
             charms
             both
             the
             Eye
             and
             Ear
             with
             splendid
             Masks
             and
             ingenious
             and
             witty
             Comedies
             .
             Venice
             is
             a
             Cluster
             of
             inchanted
             Islands
             ,
             where
             Joy
             and
             Pleasure
             have
             establishd
             their
             peaceful
             Sway
             ,
             without
             the
             least
             Disturbance
             from
             tumultuary
             or
             gloomy
             Passions
             .
             'T
             is
             all
             over
             charming
             ;
             every
             Object
             inspires
             Love
             ,
             and
             fills
             the
             Mind
             with
             a
             resistless
             and
             surprizing
             Delight
             .
             But
             I
             must
             not
             forget
             that
             I
             write
             to
             one
             who
             is
             too
             inquisitive
             to
             be
             satisfy'd
             with
             general
             Hints
             ;
             and
             therefore
             I
             shall
             proceed
             to
             give
             you
             a
             particular
             Account
             of
             this
             admirable
             City
             .
             I
             intended
             to
             have
             begun
             my
             Letter
             with
             the
             Story
             of
             a
             pleasant
             Accident
             that
             happen'd
             to
             one
             of
             my
             Friends
             at
             our
             coming
             out
             of
             the
             Lazaretto
             ,
             where
             he
             perform'd
             his
             Quarantain
             with
             me
             ;
             but
             tho'
             I
             am
             not
             often
             guilty
             of
             a
             scrupulous
             Niceness
             in
             observing
             the
             Rules
             of
             an
             exact
             Method
             ,
             I
             'm
             loath
             on
             this
             Occasion
             to
             invert
             the
             Order
             I
             intend
             to
             follow
             in
             the
             Description
             of
             the
             City
             ;
             and
             therefore
             I
             shall
             defer
             the
             Relation
             of
             my
             Friend's
             Adventure
             ,
             till
             I
             come
             to
             speak
             of
             the
             Venetian
             Curtezans
             .
          
           
             The
             Observation
             I
             made
             concerning
             Constantinople
             and
             Cairo
             ,
             may
             with
             equal
             Justice
             be
             apply'd
             to
             Venice
             ,
             and
             in
             the
             general
             to
             all
             great
             and
             populous
             Cities
             ;
             that
             there
             are
             very
             different
             Opinions
             concerning
             their
             Extent
             ,
             and
             the
             Number
             of
             their
             Inhabitants
             .
             Nor
             is
             this
             Controversie
             so
             easily
             decided
             as
             some
             Persons
             imagine
             :
             For
             when
             did
             ever
             a
             Traveller
             undertake
             to
             count
             the
             Streets
             of
             a
             great
             City
             ?
             Or
             what
             more
             can
             the
             most
             inquisitive
             Stranger
             do
             than
             to
             measure
             the
             Dimensions
             of
             a
             Publick
             Place
             ,
             or
             of
             a
             Temple
             ?
             Judge
             then
             whether
             any
             one
             can
             make
             a
             certain
             Computation
             of
             the
             Number
             of
             the
             Houses
             ,
             or
             of
             the
             Persons
             that
             inhabit
             '
             em
             .
             And
             I
             may
             venture
             to
             
             add
             ,
             that
             none
             but
             a
             Soveraign
             is
             able
             to
             manage
             such
             a
             Design
             ;
             and
             that
             the
             exactest
             Calculations
             that
             can
             be
             made
             by
             Private
             Persons
             ,
             are
             mere
             uncertain
             Conjectures
             ,
             that
             can
             never
             be
             true
             but
             by
             a
             lucky
             Hit
             ,
             on
             which
             there
             can
             be
             no
             dependance
             .
             The
             same
             may
             be
             said
             of
             the
             Bigness
             of
             a
             City
             ,
             which
             ought
             rather
             to
             be
             computed
             from
             the
             Figure
             ,
             than
             from
             the
             Extent
             of
             its
             Circumference
             :
             And
             't
             is
             so
             difficult
             a
             Task
             to
             find
             and
             describe
             the
             true
             Figure
             of
             a
             Town
             ,
             that
             the
             Inhabitants
             themselves
             are
             ignorant
             of
             it
             .
             How
             many
             different
             Judgments
             are
             made
             of
             the
             comparative
             Bigness
             of
             London
             and
             Paris
             ?
             Yet
             every
             Man
             thinks
             his
             own
             Opinion
             true
             ;
             and
             the
             same
             Remark
             may
             be
             apply'd
             to
             all
             other
             large
             Cities
             .
             I
             will
             not
             undertake
             then
             to
             determine
             so
             intricate
             a
             Controversie
             ,
             but
             shall
             content
             my self
             with
             acquainting
             you
             ,
             that
             Venice
             ,
             as
             to
             its
             Extent
             ,
             may
             ,
             in
             my
             Opinion
             ,
             be
             compar'd
             to
             Rome
             ,
             that
             the
             Streets
             are
             Narrow
             ,
             the
             Ground
             extremely
             well
             Husbanded
             ,
             and
             the
             Houses
             full
             of
             People
             to
             the
             very
             Top.
             It
             has
             neither
             Gates
             ,
             Walls
             ,
             nor
             Cittadel
             ,
             and
             yet
             cannot
             be
             justly
             said
             to
             be
             Weak
             .
             'T
             is
             esteem'd
             impregnable
             by
             many
             Authors
             ,
             and
             that
             Opinion
             is
             so
             generally
             receiv'd
             ,
             that
             you
             shall
             hardly
             hear
             any
             Man
             give
             an
             Account
             of
             Venice
             without
             that
             Encomium
             at
             the
             End
             of
             it
             .
             The
             Venetians
             themselves
             tell
             the
             Story
             so
             often
             ,
             that
             at
             last
             they
             imagine
             it
             to
             be
             a
             certain
             Truth
             ,
             and
             wou'd
             fain
             persuade
             others
             to
             be
             of
             the
             same
             Opinion
             .
             But
             tho'
             they
             alledge
             some
             Reasons
             in
             Confirmation
             of
             that
             Assertion
             ,
             they
             must
             not
             expect
             to
             make
             us
             swallow
             'em
             by
             an
             implicit
             Faith.
             At
             least
             I
             can
             assure
             you
             ,
             their
             Arguments
             have
             made
             no
             great
             Impression
             upon
             me
             ;
             for
             I
             cou'd
             never
             boast
             so
             strong
             a
             Faith
             as
             to
             give
             Credit
             to
             an
             obvious
             Absurdity
             .
             However
             ,
             Experience
             has
             taught
             me
             so
             much
             Wisdom
             ,
             that
             I
             
             shall
             hardly
             venture
             to
             own
             my
             Opinion
             in
             this
             Case
             during
             my
             abode
             here
             .
             Let
             'em
             magnifie
             their
             City
             beyond
             all
             the
             Forts
             in
             the
             World
             ,
             and
             defie
             the
             Ambition
             of
             the
             most
             potent
             Sovereigns
             in
             Europe
             ;
             their
             Arrogance
             shall
             never
             extort
             one
             indiscreet
             Word
             from
             me
             so
             long
             as
             I
             remain
             within
             the
             reach
             of
             the
             Inquisition
             :
             But
             as
             soon
             as
             I
             can
             set
             my
             Foot
             beyond
             the
             Limits
             of
             their
             Dominions
             ,
             I
             shall
             e'en
             make
             bold
             to
             talk
             as
             freely
             to
             any
             Man
             of
             the
             boasted
             Strength
             of
             their
             City
             ,
             as
             I
             now
             intend
             to
             write
             to
             you
             .
          
           
             You
             may
             remember
             I
             acknowledg'd
             that
             Venice
             is
             impregnable
             on
             the
             Side
             next
             the
             Sea
             ,
             and
             gave
             you
             an
             Account
             of
             the
             Reasons
             which
             inclin'd
             me
             to
             be
             of
             that
             Opinion
             .
             But
             I
             'm
             fully
             persuaded
             that
             't
             is
             not
             impossible
             to
             attack
             it
             with
             Success
             on
             the
             other
             side
             ,
             unless
             it
             be
             defended
             by
             an
             Army
             strong
             enough
             to
             baffle
             all
             the
             Attempts
             of
             the
             Besiegers
             ,
             in
             which
             Case
             ,
             I
             must
             confess
             ,
             it
             may
             be
             said
             to
             be
             impregnable
             ;
             but
             upon
             the
             same
             Supposition
             any
             Town
             in
             the
             World
             may
             plead
             a
             Right
             to
             that
             Title
             :
             Whereas
             a
             Place
             that
             may
             be
             properly
             call'd
             impregnable
             ,
             must
             be
             strong
             enough
             to
             endure
             a
             Siege
             two
             or
             three
             Years
             without
             Relief
             ;
             that
             is
             ,
             it
             must
             be
             able
             to
             resist
             any
             Enemy
             but
             Famine
             ,
             which
             is
             a
             necessary
             Consequence
             of
             a
             long
             and
             close
             Siege
             .
             I
             confess
             there
             are
             very
             few
             such
             Places
             in
             the
             World
             ;
             yet
             I
             have
             seen
             one
             ,
             I
             mean
             Malta
             ,
             and
             't
             is
             probable
             there
             are
             some
             other
             Forts
             which
             merit
             the
             same
             Character
             .
             As
             for
             those
             Places
             that
             may
             be
             subdu'd
             by
             Force
             ,
             tho'
             not
             without
             extreme
             Difficulty
             ,
             they
             may
             and
             ought
             to
             be
             call'd
             Strong
             ,
             but
             cannot
             justly
             be
             said
             to
             be
             Impregnable
             .
             Yet
             the
             last
             of
             these
             Epithets
             is
             very
             frequently
             abus'd
             and
             misapply'd
             ;
             for
             't
             is
             as
             usual
             to
             honour
             a
             Place
             with
             that
             Title
             ,
             as
             't
             is
             rare
             to
             find
             one
             that
             deserves
             it
             .
          
           
           
             If
             this
             be
             the
             true
             meaning
             of
             the
             controverted
             Term
             ,
             and
             if
             none
             but
             such
             Places
             as
             these
             can
             be
             properly
             said
             to
             be
             impregnable
             ,
             as
             't
             is
             plain
             they
             cannot
             ;
             I
             know
             no
             reason
             that
             shou'd
             hinder
             me
             from
             excluding
             Venice
             out
             of
             that
             Number
             .
             It
             seems
             to
             be
             no
             very
             difficult
             Undertaking
             to
             seize
             on
             the
             Lido
             and
             Malamoca
             ,
             two
             inhabited
             Islands
             ,
             and
             by
             securing
             those
             Posts
             ,
             to
             intercept
             the
             Communication
             of
             the
             City
             with
             the
             Sea
             ,
             and
             to
             cut
             off
             all
             Relief
             that
             might
             be
             expected
             that
             way
             .
             An
             Army
             might
             also
             soon
             take
             Possession
             of
             several
             little
             uninhabited
             Lagunes
             about
             Venice
             ,
             from
             whence
             the
             City
             might
             be
             easily
             batter'd
             and
             bombarded
             ;
             and
             God
             knows
             what
             Havock
             the
             Bombs
             wou'd
             make
             in
             so
             compact
             a
             City
             as
             this
             .
             And
             besides
             ,
             the
             Multitude
             of
             the
             Inhabitants
             wou'd
             quickly
             expose
             'em
             to
             all
             the
             Desolations
             that
             are
             usually
             caus'd
             by
             Famine
             .
             I
             confess
             the
             Arsenal
             is
             so
             well
             furnish'd
             that
             all
             the
             Burghers
             might
             be
             arm'd
             in
             Four
             and
             twenty
             Hours
             ;
             but
             what
             use
             cou'd
             they
             make
             of
             their
             Arms
             in
             a
             Town
             which
             in
             case
             of
             a
             Siege
             wou'd
             instantly
             be
             turn'd
             to
             a
             Prison
             :
             For
             there
             is
             no
             cover'd
             Way
             thro'
             which
             they
             cou'd
             sally
             out
             upon
             their
             Enemies
             ;
             and
             tho'
             they
             cou'd
             contrive
             one
             ,
             the
             Citizens
             of
             Venice
             wou'd
             make
             but
             a
             very
             feeble
             resistance
             .
             I
             have
             so
             mean
             an
             Opinion
             of
             their
             Military
             accomplishments
             ,
             that
             I
             dare
             boldly
             affirm
             that
             Ten
             thousand
             well-discipln'd
             Soldiers
             wou'd
             do
             more
             execution
             than
             a
             Hundred
             thousand
             of
             '
             em
             .
             Was
             not
             Paris
             starv'd
             by
             30000
             Men
             ,
             tho'
             at
             the
             same
             time
             it
             was
             defended
             by
             150000
             Citizens
             ,
             who
             might
             have
             sally'd
             out
             when
             they
             pleas'd
             ?
             What
             then
             wou'd
             become
             of
             Venice
             in
             such
             a
             Case
             ,
             where
             the
             besieg'd
             must
             be
             coop'd
             up
             in
             their
             Houses
             ,
             and
             cou'd
             never
             make
             a
             Sally
             to
             disturb
             or
             annoy
             their
             Enemies
             ?
             Perhaps
             I
             shall
             be
             laugh'd
             at
             for
             maintaining
             that
             this
             wonderful
             
             Place
             that
             dispises
             and
             defies
             the
             most
             potent
             and
             triumphant
             Enemies
             ,
             might
             be
             enter'd
             and
             set
             on
             Fire
             by
             a
             sufficient
             Number
             of
             Men
             with
             Torches
             in
             their
             Hands
             ,
             without
             the
             Trouble
             or
             Charge
             of
             Bombardment
             .
             But
             I
             wou'd
             willingly
             be
             inform'd
             what
             cou'd
             hinder
             100000
             Men
             from
             making
             and
             executing
             such
             an
             Attempt
             .
             There
             are
             no
             Walls
             to
             stop
             or
             retard
             their
             Progress
             ;
             the
             City
             is
             open
             in
             Fourscore
             several
             Places
             ,
             all
             the
             Houses
             that
             surround
             it
             are
             pierc'd
             with
             Doors
             and
             Shops
             ,
             and
             many
             of
             'em
             are
             built
             of
             Wood.
             I
             confess
             such
             an
             Expedition
             wou'd
             require
             a
             vast
             Number
             of
             Boats
             ;
             but
             when
             I
             speak
             of
             100000
             Men
             ,
             I
             do
             not
             mean
             that
             they
             shou'd
             all
             be
             employ'd
             in
             the
             Attempt
             :
             The
             Fifth
             part
             of
             'em
             wou'd
             serve
             to
             carry
             on
             the
             Attack
             ;
             and
             the
             Besiegers
             might
             find
             a
             sufficient
             Number
             of
             Boats
             in
             the
             adjacent
             Harbours
             ,
             without
             giving
             themselves
             the
             trouble
             of
             making
             new
             ones
             .
          
           
             My
             Opinion
             in
             this
             Case
             is
             so
             singular
             ,
             and
             so
             directly
             opposite
             to
             the
             Notions
             that
             are
             entertain'd
             by
             the
             generality
             of
             Mankind
             ,
             that
             you
             will
             doubtless
             scruple
             to
             give
             Credit
             to
             my
             single
             Testimony
             ,
             especially
             since
             the
             Arguments
             I
             bring
             to
             confirm
             it
             depend
             on
             certain
             Circumstances
             with
             which
             you
             never
             had
             occasion
             to
             be
             acquainted
             .
             And
             you
             will
             be
             apt
             to
             tell
             me
             ,
             that
             the
             Venetians
             wou'd
             certainly
             have
             taken
             care
             to
             fortifie
             their
             Capital
             City
             ,
             if
             its
             Natural
             Strength
             were
             not
             incapable
             of
             any
             Artificial
             Improvements
             .
             In
             answer
             to
             the
             first
             part
             of
             this
             Difficulty
             ,
             I
             shall
             only
             repeat
             what
             I
             have
             already
             told
             you
             ,
             that
             't
             was
             never
             my
             Custom
             to
             make
             my
             Judgment
             a
             Slave
             to
             Authority
             ,
             or
             to
             regulate
             my
             own
             ,
             by
             the
             Opinions
             of
             others
             .
             I
             'm
             persuaded
             that
             a
             blind
             Submission
             to
             Vulgar
             Notions
             ,
             is
             one
             of
             the
             most
             fertil
             Sources
             of
             Error
             ,
             and
             that
             there
             is
             nothing
             
             so
             variable
             and
             uncertain
             ,
             as
             the
             Sentiments
             of
             Men
             in
             different
             Places
             and
             Ages
             .
          
           
             I
             confess
             the
             other
             part
             of
             the
             Objection
             contains
             a
             greater
             and
             more
             puzzling
             Difficulty
             .
             But
             tho'
             the
             Conduct
             of
             the
             Venetian
             Senate
             in
             this
             Case
             seems
             at
             first
             View
             to
             depend
             upon
             some
             secret
             Reasons
             of
             State
             ,
             the
             Mystery
             lies
             not
             so
             deep
             but
             that
             it
             may
             be
             easily
             unriddl'd
             by
             a
             moderate
             Degree
             of
             Application
             .
             You
             know
             that
             the
             Government
             of
             Venice
             is
             purely
             Aristocratical
             ,
             and
             that
             the
             Revolutions
             which
             happen
             in
             such
             Constitutions
             ,
             are
             usually
             occasion'd
             by
             suffering
             one
             of
             the
             Members
             of
             the
             Body
             in
             which
             the
             Government
             is
             lodg'd
             ,
             to
             over-top
             the
             rest
             :
             For
             an
             Ambitious
             Person
             may
             be
             easily
             tempted
             by
             so
             inviting
             an
             Opportunity
             ,
             to
             establish
             the
             Grandeur
             of
             his
             Family
             by
             oppressing
             his
             Fellow-Citizens
             ,
             and
             to
             erect
             a
             Monarchy
             upon
             the
             Ruines
             of
             the
             Republick
             .
             History
             and
             Experience
             furnish
             us
             with
             so
             many
             Instances
             of
             such
             Revolutions
             ,
             and
             these
             Examples
             are
             so
             universally
             known
             ,
             that
             't
             wou'd
             be
             needless
             either
             to
             cite
             'em
             ,
             or
             to
             alledge
             any
             other
             Arguments
             to
             prove
             so
             well-attested
             a
             Truth
             .
             Now
             the
             Senate
             of
             Venice
             ,
             whose
             Maxims
             are
             ,
             without
             Controversie
             ,
             grounded
             on
             the
             most
             refin'd
             Politicks
             ,
             making
             a
             wise
             use
             of
             the
             Misfortunes
             of
             other
             States
             ,
             and
             being
             well
             acquainted
             with
             the
             weak
             part
             of
             their
             own
             ,
             have
             endeavour'd
             to
             prevent
             the
             Inconveniences
             that
             might
             arise
             from
             that
             necessary
             Flaw
             in
             their
             Constitution
             ,
             by
             the
             most
             prudent
             Laws
             and
             Proviso's
             that
             ever
             were
             invented
             ;
             and
             their
             Care
             for
             the
             Preservation
             of
             the
             State
             has
             been
             attended
             with
             such
             excellent
             Success
             ,
             that
             the
             Republic
             continues
             still
             to
             subsist
             on
             the
             same
             Foundations
             on
             which
             't
             was
             first
             establish'd
             .
             To
             give
             you
             a
             Specimen
             of
             the
             admirable
             Politicks
             of
             that
             wise
             Body
             ,
             I
             shall
             briefly
             take
             notice
             of
             some
             of
             those
             
             Laws
             and
             Customs
             that
             are
             interwoven
             with
             the
             Constitution
             of
             their
             Government
             .
             The
             Doge
             is
             entrusted
             with
             so
             small
             a
             Share
             in
             the
             Management
             of
             the
             State
             ,
             that
             he
             may
             be
             justly
             call'd
             a
             meer
             Shadow
             of
             Grandeur
             .
             There
             are
             Inquisitors
             appointed
             to
             have
             an
             Eye
             upon
             his
             Actions
             ,
             who
             may
             call
             him
             to
             an
             Account
             when
             they
             please
             .
             He
             is
             not
             allow'd
             the
             Liberty
             of
             public
             and
             familiar
             Conversation
             ,
             nor
             suffer'd
             to
             appear
             in
             the
             City
             but
             on
             certain
             Days
             of
             Ceremony
             .
             The
             Nobles
             are
             forbidden
             to
             entertain
             any
             correspondence
             with
             Foreign
             Princes
             ,
             or
             their
             Ministers
             .
             They
             are
             not
             permitted
             to
             wear
             Arms
             ,
             to
             use
             any
             Ornaments
             of
             Gold
             or
             Silver
             ,
             to
             keep
             a
             numerous
             Train
             of
             Servants
             ,
             or
             to
             affect
             any
             Marks
             of
             Grandeur
             .
             The
             Custom
             of
             walking
             in
             the
             Broglio
             was
             introduc'd
             to
             prevent
             the
             dangerous
             Consequences
             of
             private
             Cabals
             .
             The
             Inquisitors
             of
             State
             were
             establish'd
             for
             the
             Security
             of
             the
             Government
             ;
             and
             't
             is
             the
             same
             Consideration
             that
             moves
             'em
             to
             entertain
             above
             a
             Thousand
             Spies
             .
             And
             to
             conclude
             ,
             that
             illustrious
             Body
             in
             which
             the
             Government
             is
             lodg'd
             ,
             the
             celebrated
             
               Senate
               of
               Venice
            
             ,
             which
             knows
             so
             well
             how
             to
             maintain
             its
             Honour
             on
             other
             Occasions
             ,
             keeps
             neither
             Guards
             about
             the
             Place
             of
             its
             meeting
             ,
             nor
             a
             Garrison
             in
             the
             Town
             ;
             wisely
             considering
             ,
             that
             if
             ever
             an
             Insurrection
             shou'd
             happen
             ,
             those
             Mercenary
             Soldiers
             ,
             however
             appointed
             for
             the
             Defence
             and
             Preservation
             of
             the
             State
             ,
             wou'd
             be
             made
             the
             Instruments
             of
             its
             Ruine
             .
          
           
             I
             will
             not
             trouble
             you
             with
             a
             particular
             Account
             of
             all
             the
             Laws
             and
             Regulations
             that
             were
             instituted
             for
             the
             same
             end
             ,
             and
             are
             still
             observ'd
             in
             this
             place
             .
             But
             from
             what
             has
             been
             said
             on
             this
             Subject
             ,
             you
             may
             easily
             perceive
             that
             those
             prudent
             Senatours
             make
             it
             their
             principal
             Care
             to
             prevent
             Intestine
             Disorders
             ,
             and
             to
             render
             the
             
             Nobles
             incapable
             of
             invading
             the
             Public
             Liberty
             .
          
           
             Now
             if
             the
             Senate
             shou'd
             order
             a
             Citadel
             or
             Fort
             to
             be
             built
             at
             Venice
             ,
             they
             might
             with
             Justice
             be
             accus'd
             of
             contriving
             the
             Instruments
             of
             their
             own
             Ruine
             ,
             and
             of
             undermining
             that
             Noble
             Fabric
             ,
             which
             they
             have
             taken
             so
             great
             Care
             to
             secure
             .
             But
             they
             are
             too
             wise
             to
             be
             guilty
             of
             so
             fatal
             a
             Blunder
             ;
             and
             't
             is
             better
             to
             be
             in
             some
             measure
             expos'd
             to
             the
             Insults
             of
             Foreign
             Invaders
             ,
             than
             to
             lie
             at
             the
             Mercy
             of
             Domestic
             Enemies
             .
             Besides
             they
             have
             no
             Reason
             to
             be
             afraid
             of
             their
             Neighbours
             ;
             for
             't
             is
             the
             Interest
             of
             all
             the
             Princes
             and
             States
             of
             Italy
             ,
             to
             preserve
             the
             Republic
             ,
             that
             it
             may
             continue
             to
             be
             the
             Bulwark
             of
             Christendom
             on
             that
             side
             ,
             and
             to
             counter-balance
             the
             Power
             of
             the
             House
             of
             Austria
             .
             And
             as
             for
             the
             Turks
             ,
             they
             are
             at
             too
             great
             a
             Distance
             to
             undertake
             an
             Expedition
             against
             the
             City
             .
          
           
             Thus
             you
             see
             that
             there
             are
             several
             weighty
             Considerations
             that
             deter
             the
             Senate
             from
             fortifying
             their
             Capital
             City
             :
             and
             there
             are
             no
             less
             pressing
             Reasons
             that
             oblige
             'em
             to
             encourage
             the
             Vulgar
             Opinion
             of
             its
             pretended
             Impregnability
             .
          
           
             If
             I
             shou'd
             send
             you
             a
             particular
             Description
             of
             this
             City
             ,
             I
             cou'd
             only
             entertain
             you
             with
             a
             Repetition
             of
             what
             you
             have
             read
             perhaps
             in
             a
             hundred
             Authors
             .
             And
             therefore
             I
             shall
             content
             my self
             with
             communicating
             some
             of
             my
             Remarks
             to
             you
             ,
             in
             a
             loose
             and
             familiar
             manner
             .
          
           
             Some
             pretend
             that
             Venice
             is
             built
             on
             seventy
             two
             Islands
             or
             Lagunes
             ,
             which
             are
             separated
             by
             such
             narrow
             Chanels
             that
             they
             seem
             to
             form
             one
             little
             Continent
             :
             and
             there
             are
             others
             who
             reject
             this
             Opinion
             .
             I
             will
             not
             undertake
             to
             decide
             the
             Controversie
             ,
             but
             only
             tell
             you
             what
             I
             have
             seen
             ,
             and
             leave
             the
             whole
             Matter
             to
             your
             
             Judgment
             .
             'T
             is
             certain
             that
             Venice
             is
             founded
             on
             a
             Spot
             of
             Ground
             that
             rises
             at
             least
             to
             the
             Surface
             of
             the
             Water
             ;
             for
             the
             Earth
             appears
             in
             the
             Streets
             ,
             Keys
             ,
             public
             Places
             ,
             and
             Houses
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             they
             are
             forc'd
             to
             make
             use
             of
             Piles
             ,
             because
             the
             Ground
             is
             not
             firm
             enough
             to
             support
             the
             Weight
             of
             a
             large
             Palace
             without
             sinking
             :
             but
             that
             ought
             not
             to
             make
             us
             doubt
             the
             Truth
             of
             a
             thing
             that
             is
             confirm'd
             by
             the
             Testimony
             of
             our
             own
             Eyes
             ;
             for
             the
             same
             way
             of
             Building
             is
             generally
             us'd
             in
             all
             Moorish
             or
             Fenny
             Places
             ,
             and
             particularly
             in
             Holland
             .
             'T
             is
             no
             less
             certain
             that
             this
             Spot
             of
             Ground
             is
             at
             present
             a
             Mass
             of
             Islands
             ,
             so
             that
             it
             remains
             only
             to
             consider
             whether
             the
             Canals
             that
             separate
             these
             little
             Islands
             be
             Natural
             or
             Artificial
             .
             This
             Question
             is
             not
             easily
             to
             be
             determin'd
             ,
             for
             one
             may
             alledge
             very
             plausible
             Arguments
             either
             for
             the
             Affirmative
             or
             Negative
             part
             .
             'T
             is
             probable
             the
             Venetians
             might
             dig
             these
             Chanels
             ,
             for
             the
             more
             convenient
             Carriage
             of
             Goods
             ,
             which
             by
             this
             means
             are
             brought
             to
             their
             Doors
             ,
             and
             for
             the
             Embellishment
             of
             the
             City
             ,
             which
             is
             the
             only
             Town
             in
             the
             World
             that
             can
             boast
             of
             such
             a
             Situation
             .
             But
             there
             are
             so
             many
             ,
             and
             so
             considerable
             Reasons
             ,
             which
             favour
             the
             contrary
             Opinion
             ,
             that
             I
             'm
             almost
             entirely
             convinc'd
             of
             the
             Truth
             of
             it
             .
             In
             the
             first
             place
             ,
             'T
             is
             plain
             that
             the
             Venetians
             have
             taken
             all
             possible
             Care
             to
             husband
             the
             Ground
             on
             which
             the
             City
             is
             founded
             .
             The
             Streets
             are
             so
             narrow
             ,
             that
             in
             most
             of
             'em
             three
             Men
             cannot
             walk
             a-breast
             ,
             and
             in
             some
             ,
             one
             Man
             can
             hardly
             pass
             by
             another
             .
             And
             the
             Foundations
             of
             the
             Houses
             on
             one
             side
             are
             laid
             in
             the
             Water
             ,
             without
             any
             Key
             or
             Passage
             betwixt
             'em
             and
             the
             Canals
             .
             We
             cannot
             then
             suppose
             ,
             with
             the
             least
             Shadow
             of
             Probability
             ,
             that
             the
             Prospect
             of
             any
             Conveniency
             cou'd
             oblige
             'em
             to
             waste
             so
             considerable
             a
             quantity
             of
             that
             Ground
             which
             
             they
             manage
             so
             thriftily
             ,
             that
             the
             City
             is
             every-where
             full
             of
             Boundaries
             ,
             to
             restrain
             the
             Proprietors
             of
             the
             Houses
             from
             breaking
             in
             upon
             the
             Streets
             .
             And
             besides
             ,
             what
             Reason
             can
             there
             be
             alledg'd
             for
             their
             leaving
             so
             many
             large
             Spots
             of
             Ground
             entire
             ;
             for
             tho'
             you
             are
             inform'd
             that
             a
             Man
             may
             go
             in
             a
             Boat
             to
             any
             House
             in
             the
             City
             ,
             you
             must
             not
             take
             these
             Words
             in
             a
             strict
             and
             literal
             Sense
             ,
             but
             only
             as
             a
             figurative
             Expression
             ,
             to
             signifie
             that
             there
             are
             a
             great
             Number
             of
             such
             Houses
             in
             Venice
             .
             I
             can
             assure
             you
             that
             there
             is
             not
             a
             Canal
             within
             five
             hundred
             Paces
             round
             of
             the
             House
             where
             I
             lodge
             ;
             and
             that
             there
             are
             twenty
             such
             Places
             in
             the
             City
             .
             I
             shall
             only
             add
             that
             the
             Canals
             are
             crooked
             ,
             and
             generally
             unequal
             both
             in
             Length
             and
             Breadth
             ;
             which
             ,
             in
             my
             Opinion
             ,
             may
             serve
             to
             convince
             any
             considering
             Person
             ,
             that
             they
             are
             not
             Artificial
             .
          
           
             All
             the
             Streets
             in
             the
             City
             ,
             without
             Exception
             ,
             are
             narrow
             and
             crooked
             ;
             but
             to
             make
             amends
             for
             these
             Disadvantages
             ,
             they
             are
             so
             clean
             that
             one
             may
             walk
             a
             Year
             in
             'em
             without
             meeting
             with
             any
             Dirt
             :
             and
             besides
             they
             are
             pav'd
             with
             large
             square
             Stones
             ,
             which
             always
             after
             a
             Shower
             grow
             as
             white
             as
             Marble
             .
             In
             several
             parts
             of
             the
             City
             there
             are
             little
             empty
             places
             call'd
             Campi
             or
             Fields
             ;
             which
             were
             probably
             left
             for
             the
             Conveniency
             of
             intrenching
             ,
             if
             an
             Enemy
             shou'd
             enter
             the
             Town
             ;
             for
             they
             are
             not
             at
             all
             Ornamental
             .
             The
             only
             considerable
             Place
             or
             Field
             in
             Venice
             ,
             is
             that
             of
             S.
             Mark
             ,
             which
             certainly
             claims
             all
             our
             Admiration
             .
             'T
             is
             two
             hundred
             and
             fifty
             Paces
             long
             ,
             and
             eighty
             broad
             .
             The
             Church
             of
             S.
             Mark
             faces
             one
             of
             the
             Ends
             of
             it
             ,
             and
             that
             of
             S.
             Geminian
             the
             other
             .
             'T
             is
             border'd
             on
             each
             side
             with
             those
             stately
             Piles
             of
             Building
             call'd
             the
             Old
             and
             
               New
               Pro●●●aties
            
             ,
             which
             make
             it
             ,
             without
             Controversie
             ,
             the
             
             most
             Magnificent
             Place
             in
             the
             World.
             The
             Front
             of
             each
             Procuraty
             is
             supported
             by
             a
             large
             Portico
             ,
             ten
             Paces
             broad
             ;
             and
             all
             along
             there
             are
             double
             Piazza's
             ,
             one
             of
             which
             entering
             into
             the
             Building
             serves
             for
             Shops
             ,
             which
             are
             lett
             by
             the
             Signiory
             to
             those
             who
             sell
             Perfumes
             ,
             Limonade
             ,
             and
             Coffee
             .
             The
             Procurators
             of
             S.
             Mark
             lodge
             in
             these
             Palaces
             ,
             which
             for
             that
             Reason
             are
             call'd
             the
             Procuraties
             :
             but
             when
             any
             Foreign
             Prince
             comes
             to
             take
             a
             View
             of
             'em
             ,
             or
             on
             some
             other
             Occasions
             of
             Public
             Rejoicing
             ,
             the
             Partitions
             are
             taken
             down
             ,
             so
             that
             one
             may
             walk
             from
             one
             End
             to
             the
             other
             ,
             and
             all
             the
             several
             Apartments
             are
             united
             into
             one
             spacious
             House
             .
             That
             on
             the
             Right-hand
             ,
             as
             you
             go
             to
             S.
             
             Mark
             's
             Church
             ,
             is
             call'd
             the
             New
             ,
             and
             that
             on
             the
             Left
             the
             
               Old
               Procuraty
            
             .
             The
             first
             has
             two
             principal
             Fronts
             ,
             one
             of
             which
             looks
             into
             the
             Place
             of
             S.
             Mark
             ,
             and
             the
             other
             into
             the
             Broglio
             ,
             over-against
             the
             Palace
             of
             St.
             Mark
             ,
             which
             is
             an
             Ancient
             and
             Magnificent
             Structure
             ,
             where
             all
             the
             Councils
             meet
             ;
             such
             as
             the
             
               Grand
               Council
            
             ,
             the
             
               Council
               of
               the
               Finances
            
             call'd
             the
             Ceca
             ,
             the
             
               Marine
               Council
            
             ,
             &c.
             
             The
             Ceca
             is
             a
             distinct
             Apartment
             in
             the
             Palace
             of
             S.
             Mark
             ;
             and
             tho'
             't
             is
             built
             after
             the
             same
             Manner
             ,
             and
             with
             the
             same
             Stones
             ,
             the
             large
             Grates
             and
             double
             Doors
             of
             Iron
             ,
             with
             which
             't
             is
             inclos'd
             ,
             make
             it
             resemble
             a
             Prison
             rather
             than
             a
             Palace
             :
             And
             besides
             the
             Smoak
             that
             arises
             from
             the
             Furnaces
             has
             so
             penetrated
             the
             Stone-Walls
             ,
             that
             they
             are
             black
             even
             within
             the
             Chambers
             .
             Here
             the
             Money
             is
             coin'd
             ,
             and
             the
             Public
             Treasure
             kept
             in
             great
             Iron
             Chests
             ,
             secur'd
             with
             three
             Locks
             ,
             the
             Keys
             of
             which
             are
             committed
             to
             the
             Custody
             of
             three
             Procurators
             ,
             who
             ,
             under
             Pain
             of
             Death
             ,
             dare
             not
             make
             the
             least
             Attempt
             to
             open
             'em
             till
             they
             are
             all
             met
             together
             .
             The
             Council
             sits
             twice
             a
             Week
             ,
             
             which
             are
             the
             only
             Days
             for
             all
             sorts
             of
             Payments
             .
          
           
             The
             little
             Arsenal
             of
             the
             Nobles
             ,
             whose
             Arms
             are
             always
             kept
             ready
             charg'd
             ,
             is
             in
             the
             same
             Palace
             of
             S.
             Mark
             ;
             and
             the
             
             Doge's
             Apartment
             is
             in
             the
             Right-Wing
             ,
             from
             whence
             there
             is
             a
             Passage
             to
             the
             Church
             ,
             whither
             he
             goes
             sometimes
             incognito
             to
             hear
             Mass
             ;
             but
             usually
             he
             performs
             his
             Devotions
             at
             a
             private
             Chapel
             in
             his
             own
             Apartment
             .
          
           
             S.
             
             Mark
             's
             Church
             is
             a
             large
             Structure
             ,
             square
             on
             the
             Out-side
             ,
             cover'd
             with
             four
             Leaden
             Domes
             ,
             of
             which
             the
             largest
             is
             in
             the
             Middle
             ,
             without
             any
             Spires
             or
             Steeples
             .
             The
             Top
             is
             surrounded
             with
             Stone
             Balisters
             for
             the
             Conveniency
             of
             walking
             .
             You
             enter
             the
             Church
             thro'
             a
             Portico
             compos'd
             of
             five
             Arches
             ,
             the
             highest
             of
             which
             is
             in
             the
             Middle
             .
             There
             you
             may
             take
             a
             View
             of
             those
             Large
             and
             Stately
             Gates
             of
             Brass
             ,
             which
             the
             Venetians
             brought
             from
             
               Santa
               Sophia
            
             at
             Constantinople
             ,
             when
             they
             robb'd
             that
             City
             of
             so
             many
             valuable
             Curiosities
             to
             enrich
             their
             own
             .
             Among
             the
             rest
             ,
             I
             cannot
             forbear
             taking
             Notice
             of
             the
             four
             Brazen
             Horses
             that
             are
             plac'd
             upon
             the
             same
             Portico
             .
             'T
             is
             Pity
             they
             are
             not
             more
             carefully
             preserv'd
             ;
             for
             they
             are
             so
             finely
             shap'd
             ,
             that
             Nature
             her self
             cou'd
             not
             mend
             those
             Artificial
             Animals
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             they
             have
             endeavour'd
             to
             piece
             'em
             ,
             but
             all
             their
             Care
             and
             Skill
             will
             never
             be
             able
             to
             restore
             'em
             to
             their
             primitive
             Beauty
             .
          
           
             The
             Figure
             of
             the
             Church
             within
             resembles
             a
             Cross
             ,
             the
             Quire
             representing
             the
             upper
             part
             .
             'T
             is
             vaulted
             throughout
             ,
             and
             enrich'd
             with
             very
             fine
             
             Mosaic-Work
             ,
             like
             that
             of
             
               Santa
               Sophia
            
             ,
             but
             not
             near
             so
             lasting
             :
             for
             it
             decays
             so
             fast
             ,
             that
             they
             are
             forc'd
             to
             keep
             some
             Workmen
             on
             purpose
             to
             repair
             it
             ;
             whereas
             the
             other
             remains
             entire
             notwithstanding
             its
             great
             Antiquity
             .
             And
             besides
             there
             is
             
             another
             Difference
             betwixt
             the
             
             Mosaic-Work
             at
             Venice
             ,
             and
             that
             at
             
               Santa
               Sophia
            
             ;
             for
             the
             latter
             is
             smooth
             and
             plain
             ,
             whereas
             the
             former
             is
             full
             of
             Figures
             .
             These
             are
             the
             only
             Pieces
             of
             this
             Nature
             I
             have
             had
             occasion
             to
             see
             in
             my
             Travels
             ,
             except
             one
             at
             Scio.
             The
             Floor
             of
             the
             Church
             is
             adorn'd
             with
             another
             sort
             of
             Mosaic
             no
             less
             precious
             than
             the
             former
             ,
             consisting
             of
             several
             small
             Pieces
             of
             Porphyrie
             ,
             Jasper
             ,
             and
             Serpentine
             or
             speckl'd
             Marble
             ,
             not
             unlike
             to
             the
             Tables
             and
             Cabinets
             of
             Ebony
             ,
             that
             are
             inlaid
             with
             Shells
             and
             Naker
             .
          
           
             The
             Arms
             of
             all
             the
             Doges
             that
             have
             hitherto
             govern'd
             the
             Republic
             are
             plac'd
             round
             the
             Walls
             .
             They
             are
             generally
             magnificent
             ,
             and
             even
             some
             of
             'em
             are
             of
             Silver
             curiously
             wrought
             .
             The
             only
             Fault
             I
             can
             find
             in
             this
             Church
             is
             its
             Obscurity
             ,
             which
             hides
             the
             greatest
             part
             of
             its
             Beauties
             :
             For
             in
             all
             other
             respects
             't
             is
             enrich'd
             with
             the
             finest
             Ornaments
             ,
             such
             as
             Altars
             ,
             Pictures
             ,
             and
             Vessels
             of
             Gold
             and
             Silver
             .
             '
             Twou'd
             be
             needless
             to
             present
             you
             with
             a
             Catalogue
             of
             the
             rare
             Curiosities
             that
             are
             to
             be
             seen
             either
             in
             the
             Church
             or
             Treasury
             ,
             since
             you
             will
             find
             'em
             all
             particularly
             describ'd
             in
             a
             Treatise
             written
             by
             
               Monsieur
               de
               S.
               Didier
            
             .
          
           
             'T
             is
             Pity
             the
             Venetians
             shou'd
             have
             lost
             the
             Body
             of
             their
             good
             Patron
             ,
             S.
             Mark
             ,
             and
             that
             their
             Loss
             shou'd
             be
             attended
             with
             this
             mortifying
             Circumstance
             ,
             that
             they
             know
             neither
             the
             Time
             nor
             Occasion
             of
             it
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             the
             common
             People
             believe
             that
             he
             retir'd
             into
             a
             Pillar
             ,
             which
             they
             shew'd
             me
             ,
             and
             that
             he
             thrust
             his
             Hand
             out
             of
             that
             Column
             when
             he
             gave
             the
             Ring
             to
             the
             Doge
             ;
             but
             most
             of
             'em
             scruple
             not
             to
             confess
             that
             they
             know
             not
             where
             he
             is
             ,
             nor
             whither
             he
             went.
             
          
           
             They
             made
             me
             also
             take
             Notice
             of
             a
             Stone
             ,
             which
             they
             pretend
             is
             the
             same
             that
             yielded
             Water
             to
             the
             Israelites
             ,
             when
             they
             were
             tormented
             with
             
             Thirst
             in
             the
             Wilderness
             .
             If
             this
             be
             true
             ,
             we
             must
             allow
             that
             Rock
             a
             Power
             to
             multiply
             its
             Kind
             ;
             for
             't
             is
             still
             to
             be
             seen
             in
             the
             Desarts
             of
             Arabia
             ,
             between
             Sues
             and
             Tor
             ,
             as
             I
             have
             heard
             several
             credible
             Persons
             affirm
             ,
             as
             well
             Christians
             ,
             as
             Turks
             and
             Moors
             ,
             who
             assure
             me
             that
             it
             stands
             by
             it self
             in
             the
             midst
             of
             a
             Sandy
             Desart
             ;
             and
             that
             one
             may
             both
             easily
             perceive
             the
             Holes
             that
             gave
             a
             Passage
             to
             the
             Water
             ,
             and
             discern
             the
             very
             Track
             or
             Print
             that
             was
             made
             by
             the
             Stream
             .
          
           
             The
             next
             place
             in
             Venice
             that
             claims
             a
             particular
             Observation
             ,
             is
             the
             Arsenal
             ,
             which
             is
             certainly
             the
             best
             furnish'd
             Magazine
             in
             the
             World.
             For
             tho'
             it
             contains
             no
             less
             than
             two
             Miles
             in
             Compass
             ,
             't
             is
             fill'd
             and
             even
             crowded
             with
             Cannons
             ,
             Bombs
             ,
             Granadoes
             ,
             Muskets
             ,
             Sabres
             ,
             Gun-powder
             ,
             Ropes
             ,
             Sails
             ,
             Anchors
             ,
             &c.
             
             To
             give
             you
             an
             Estimate
             of
             the
             prodigious
             Quantity
             of
             Ammunition
             that
             is
             hoarded
             up
             in
             this
             Place
             ,
             't
             will
             be
             sufficient
             to
             tell
             you
             ,
             that
             in
             case
             of
             Necessity
             ,
             't
             is
             sufficient
             to
             arm
             and
             equip
             fifteen
             Galleys
             ,
             four
             Galeasses
             ,
             as
             many
             Ships
             ,
             and
             a
             hundred
             thousand
             Men.
             The
             Arsenal
             is
             govern'd
             by
             three
             Nobles
             ,
             and
             under
             them
             by
             the
             Pilot
             of
             the
             Republic
             ,
             whom
             they
             call
             the
             Admiral
             ,
             who
             is
             entrusted
             with
             the
             Care
             and
             Inspection
             both
             of
             the
             Stores
             ,
             and
             of
             two
             or
             three
             hundred
             Men
             ,
             that
             are
             constantly
             kept
             at
             Work.
             He
             never
             goes
             to
             Sea
             but
             once
             a
             Year
             ,
             to
             steer
             the
             Bucentaur
             on
             Ascension-Day
             ,
             when
             the
             Duke
             accompany'd
             by
             all
             the
             Nobles
             ,
             performs
             the
             Ceremony
             of
             Wedding
             the
             Sea.
             They
             set
             so
             high
             a
             Value
             upon
             this
             Vessel
             ,
             that
             the
             Pilot
             is
             oblig'd
             under
             Pain
             of
             Death
             to
             bring
             it
             back
             in
             Safety
             ;
             which
             makes
             him
             so
             cautious
             in
             observing
             the
             Weather
             ,
             that
             when
             he
             perceives
             any
             Clouds
             ,
             or
             the
             least
             Appearance
             of
             a
             Wind
             on
             the
             Day
             appointed
             for
             the
             Solemnity
             ,
             he
             procures
             it
             to
             be
             delay'd
             till
             the
             next
             Sunday
             .
          
           
           
             'T
             is
             the
             Opinion
             of
             one
             ,
             That
             Venice
             contains
             Four
             hundred
             Palaces
             ,
             fit
             to
             receive
             and
             entertain
             a
             King.
             This
             is
             certainly
             a
             very
             bold
             Assertion
             ;
             and
             yet
             I
             dare
             not
             positively
             contradict
             it
             :
             for
             the
             Palaces
             are
             so
             Numerous
             and
             Magnificent
             ,
             that
             I
             may
             venture
             ,
             without
             a
             Hyperbole
             ,
             to
             affirm
             that
             they
             are
             sufficient
             to
             adorn
             Ten
             Cities
             .
             On
             the
             great
             Canal
             alone
             there
             are
             at
             least
             Two
             hundred
             ,
             which
             seem
             to
             out-rival
             one
             another
             ,
             whether
             you
             consider
             the
             Boldness
             of
             the
             Design
             ,
             or
             the
             Fineness
             of
             the
             Structure
             ;
             and
             confound
             the
             amaz'd
             Spectatour
             with
             so
             vast
             a
             Medley
             of
             different
             Beauties
             ,
             that
             he
             knows
             not
             which
             to
             prefer
             ,
             or
             where
             to
             point
             at
             the
             Principal
             Object
             of
             his
             Admiration
             .
             If
             your
             Curiosity
             shou'd
             lead
             you
             out
             of
             the
             City
             ,
             to
             take
             a
             View
             of
             the
             neighbouring
             Continent
             ,
             especially
             towards
             Padua
             ,
             you
             wou'd
             be
             tempted
             to
             fansie
             your self
             among
             the
             Habitations
             of
             the
             Gods
             ;
             for
             every
             Palace
             resembles
             a
             Magnificent
             Temple
             ,
             adorn'd
             with
             all
             the
             most
             exquisite
             Beauties
             of
             Architecture
             .
             It
             must
             be
             acknowledg'd
             that
             the
             Italians
             ,
             and
             particularly
             the
             Venetians
             ,
             are
             the
             best
             Architects
             in
             the
             World
             ;
             and
             that
             the
             finest
             Houses
             in
             France
             are
             not
             comparable
             to
             these
             Palaces
             on
             the
             Outside
             .
          
           
             I
             shall
             take
             this
             Occasion
             to
             give
             you
             a
             general
             Idea
             of
             their
             Manner
             of
             Building
             .
             The
             Height
             of
             the
             Edifice
             is
             exactly
             proportion'd
             to
             its
             Bigness
             ,
             according
             to
             the
             nicest
             Rules
             of
             Architecture
             .
             The
             Houses
             are
             cover'd
             with
             fine
             Platforms
             ,
             where
             a
             Man
             may
             enjoy
             the
             Pleasure
             of
             walking
             without
             going
             out
             of
             his
             own
             House
             ;
             and
             when
             he
             grows
             weary
             may
             either
             sit
             down
             on
             the
             Benches
             ,
             or
             rest
             on
             the
             Balisters
             that
             surround
             the
             Platform
             .
             The
             Fronts
             of
             the
             Houses
             are
             adorn'd
             with
             Portico's
             ,
             Columns
             ,
             Balconies
             at
             the
             Windows
             ,
             Frizes
             ,
             Festoons
             ,
             Niches
             ,
             and
             Statues
             .
             These
             Ornaments
             are
             accompany'd
             with
             Courts
             ,
             Anti-Courts
             ,
             delicious
             Gardens
             ,
             
             Fountains
             ,
             Grotto's
             ,
             and
             all
             the
             other
             Embellishments
             that
             a
             luxurious
             Fancy
             can
             contrive
             .
             I
             can
             assure
             you
             that
             this
             is
             a
             true
             and
             faithful
             Representation
             of
             these
             glorious
             Edifices
             ;
             and
             I
             leave
             you
             to
             judge
             whether
             they
             may
             not
             justly
             be
             call'd
             Palaces
             ,
             and
             whether
             any
             thing
             cou'd
             give
             a
             higher
             Idea
             of
             the
             Grandeur
             of
             the
             Venetian
             Nobles
             .
             The
             main
             Reason
             ,
             in
             my
             Opinion
             ,
             that
             makes
             'em
             employ
             so
             great
             a
             part
             of
             their
             Treasure
             in
             Building
             ,
             is
             because
             they
             are
             not
             permitted
             to
             display
             their
             Magnificence
             any
             other
             way
             .
             For
             since
             they
             are
             not
             suffer'd
             to
             consume
             their
             Money
             in
             splendid
             Equipages
             ,
             and
             rich
             Habits
             ,
             't
             is
             plain
             they
             must
             either
             build
             ,
             or
             find
             some
             other
             way
             to
             bestow
             their
             superfluous
             Cash
             .
             And
             ,
             't
             is
             probably
             the
             same
             Restraint
             that
             tempts
             'em
             to
             throw
             away
             such
             vast
             quantities
             of
             Money
             on
             Courtezans
             and
             at
             Play.
             You
             wou'd
             hardly
             believe
             me
             ,
             if
             I
             shou'd
             tell
             you
             what
             prodigious
             Summs
             are
             consum'd
             every
             Year
             at
             Bassette
             ,
             especially
             during
             the
             Carnaval
             ;
             when
             the
             Ridotti
             or
             Gaming-Houses
             are
             open
             .
             None
             are
             admitted
             into
             these
             Houses
             without
             Masks
             ;
             that
             all
             sorts
             of
             People
             may
             enjoy
             an
             equal
             Liberty
             ,
             and
             that
             there
             may
             be
             no
             Occasion
             for
             Disputes
             ,
             nor
             any
             Marks
             of
             Distinction
             in
             a
             place
             where
             every
             one
             is
             welcome
             for
             his
             Money
             ,
             and
             where
             there
             is
             always
             a
             confus'd
             Medley
             of
             Noblemen
             ,
             Citizens
             ,
             Ladies
             ,
             and
             Courtezans
             :
             Yet
             this
             Order
             is
             not
             observ'd
             with
             the
             utmost
             Rigour
             ;
             for
             one
             that
             has
             a
             false
             Nose
             ,
             or
             counterfeit
             Whiskers
             is
             held
             to
             be
             sufficiently
             Mask'd
             .
             The
             Nobles
             keep
             the
             Bank
             ,
             and
             relieve
             one
             another
             by
             turns
             from
             Morning
             till
             Night
             .
             They
             bear
             good
             or
             bad
             Fortune
             without
             discovering
             the
             least
             Alteration
             either
             in
             their
             Countenance
             or
             Humour
             :
             and
             seem
             as
             little
             concern'd
             when
             they
             lose
             a
             Thousand
             Sequins
             by
             one
             Card
             ,
             as
             when
             they
             gain
             One
             by
             another
             .
             I
             have
             
             had
             Occasion
             two
             or
             three
             times
             to
             see
             the
             Bank
             broke
             ,
             but
             cou'd
             never
             perceive
             the
             least
             Sign
             of
             Disturbance
             in
             the
             unfortunate
             Gamester
             .
             And
             which
             is
             no
             less
             surprizing
             ,
             I
             have
             seen
             other
             Noblemen
             continue
             to
             play
             with
             the
             Loser
             ,
             upon
             his
             bare
             Word
             ,
             to
             the
             Value
             of
             Ten
             thousand
             Ducats
             ,
             which
             were
             always
             punctually
             paid
             next
             Morning
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             the
             Loss
             does
             not
             fall
             wholly
             upon
             one
             Person
             ,
             for
             there
             are
             sometimes
             a
             Hundred
             of
             'em
             join'd
             together
             ;
             and
             this
             is
             perhaps
             the
             main
             Reason
             that
             makes
             'em
             bear
             their
             Misfortunes
             so
             patiently
             .
             Besides
             the
             Bank
             is
             seldom
             a
             Loser
             at
             the
             last
             ;
             and
             the
             Ridotti
             are
             sometimes
             so
             full
             of
             Money
             ,
             that
             they
             know
             not
             where
             to
             keep
             it
             .
             All
             the
             Cash
             is
             entrusted
             to
             the
             Care
             of
             some
             Nobleman
             ,
             who
             is
             usually
             one
             of
             the
             poorer
             Sort
             ;
             and
             yet
             't
             is
             never
             observ'd
             that
             he
             retains
             so
             much
             as
             one
             Peny
             .
          
           
             You
             may
             expect
             ,
             in
             my
             next
             ,
             an
             Answer
             to
             your
             Questions
             concerning
             the
             Nobility
             .
          
           
             I
             am
             ,
             
               SIR
               ,
            
             
               Your
               &c
            
             
               Venice
               ,
               
                 Jan.
                 1692.
                 
              
            
          
        
         
           
           
             LETTER
             XXVIII
             .
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
          
           
             I
             Remember
             I
             told
             you
             ,
             that
             the
             Order
             of
             Malta
             might
             be
             divided
             into
             four
             Classes
             ;
             and
             I
             shall
             begin
             this
             Letter
             with
             applying
             the
             same
             Observation
             to
             the
             Noblemen
             of
             Venice
             :
             for
             tho'
             all
             who
             bear
             that
             Name
             are
             united
             into
             one
             Body
             ,
             their
             Families
             are
             not
             equally
             Illustrious
             .
             The
             first
             Classis
             or
             Rank
             ,
             consists
             of
             those
             Families
             who
             founded
             the
             Republic
             ,
             and
             were
             Noble
             before
             that
             time
             .
             The
             second
             comprehends
             those
             who
             were
             elected
             before
             the
             Shutting
             up
             of
             the
             Council
             ,
             which
             was
             call'd
             ,
             
               Il
               Serrar
               del
               Consiglio
            
             .
             The
             third
             contains
             those
             who
             obtain'd
             that
             Honour
             as
             a
             Recompence
             for
             some
             eminent
             Services
             done
             to
             the
             State
             ;
             and
             are
             therefore
             call'd
             Gentlemen
             by
             Merit
             .
             And
             the
             fourth
             is
             made
             up
             of
             
               Nobili
               per
               Soldi
            
             ,
             or
             
               Gentlemen
               by
               Purchase
            
             ,
             who
             bought
             the
             Title
             .
             But
             notwithstanding
             so
             considerable
             a
             Difference
             in
             their
             Pedigrees
             ,
             they
             have
             all
             an
             equal
             Right
             to
             give
             their
             Voices
             ,
             and
             enjoy
             the
             same
             Privileges
             :
             All
             ,
             from
             the
             Highest
             to
             the
             Lowest
             ,
             go
             to
             the
             Great
             Council
             ,
             and
             are
             honour'd
             with
             the
             Title
             of
             Excellency
             .
             And
             even
             it
             happens
             not
             unfrequently
             that
             the
             most
             Illustrious
             Members
             of
             that
             Body
             are
             not
             most
             respected
             :
             for
             oftentimes
             a
             Gentleman
             of
             three
             Days
             standing
             is
             advanc'd
             to
             the
             Dignity
             of
             a
             Procurator
             ,
             while
             the
             Ancient
             Families
             ,
             and
             those
             that
             gave
             a
             Being
             to
             the
             Republic
             ,
             are
             in
             a
             miserable
             Condition
             .
             Here
             ,
             as
             well
             as
             every
             where
             else
             ,
             't
             is
             the
             Custom
             to
             worship
             the
             Rising
             Sun
             ,
             and
             to
             court
             those
             who
             seem
             to
             be
             the
             Darlings
             of
             Fortune
             :
             The
             Richest
             are
             always
             esteem'd
             the
             Greatest
             
             Lords
             ,
             and
             stand
             fairest
             for
             Preferment
             .
             However
             since
             all
             Elections
             are
             decided
             by
             Plurality
             of
             Voices
             in
             the
             Grand
             Council
             ,
             the
             poorer
             Sort
             of
             Gentlemen
             are
             treated
             with
             more
             Complaisance
             than
             they
             cou'd
             expect
             ,
             if
             they
             had
             not
             a
             Right
             to
             Vote
             on
             such
             Occasions
             ;
             since
             it
             may
             sometimes
             be
             in
             their
             Power
             to
             dispose
             of
             the
             Procuratorship
             ,
             and
             even
             of
             the
             Ducal
             Coronet
             .
             This
             puts
             me
             in
             mind
             of
             a
             Story
             ,
             which
             perhaps
             will
             divert
             you
             ;
             you
             must
             take
             it
             on
             the
             Credit
             of
             its
             Authors
             .
             There
             was
             ,
             say
             the
             Venetians
             ,
             a
             certain
             poor
             Gentleman
             ,
             who
             had
             Occasion
             to
             take
             a
             Journey
             into
             the
             Country
             :
             Before
             his
             Departure
             he
             went
             to
             a
             Great
             Lord
             ,
             who
             was
             his
             Neighbour
             ,
             and
             intreated
             him
             to
             lend
             him
             a
             Cloak
             ;
             but
             had
             the
             Mortification
             to
             receive
             a
             flat
             Denyal
             ,
             and
             was
             forc'd
             to
             have
             Recourse
             to
             another
             .
             Not
             long
             after
             the
             Doge
             di'd
             ,
             and
             the
             rich
             Nobleman
             had
             so
             great
             an
             Interest
             in
             the
             Council
             ,
             that
             when
             they
             proceeded
             to
             Balloting
             ,
             he
             wanted
             but
             one
             Voice
             to
             be
             chosen
             .
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             the
             poor
             Gentleman
             happen'd
             to
             come
             in
             ,
             and
             was
             immediately
             accosted
             by
             his
             wealthy
             Neighbour
             ,
             who
             ,
             with
             all
             imaginable
             Submission
             and
             Respect
             ,
             begg'd
             his
             Voice
             ;
             and
             assur'd
             him
             ,
             that
             he
             wou'd
             always
             look
             upon
             him
             as
             the
             Author
             of
             his
             Fortune
             .
             But
             the
             Gentleman
             remembring
             his
             late
             Incivility
             ,
             reply'd
             in
             an
             angry
             and
             disdainful
             manner
             ,
             
               No
               ,
               my
               Lord
               ,
               you
               must
               e'en
               resolve
               to
               go
               without
               a
               Coronet
               ,
               as
               you
               made
               me
               go
               without
               a
               Cloak
               .
            
             The
             Consideration
             of
             the
             frequent
             Occasions
             they
             have
             to
             make
             use
             of
             the
             Assistance
             of
             the
             rest
             of
             their
             Body
             ,
             makes
             'em
             treat
             one
             another
             with
             a
             great
             deal
             of
             Civility
             ,
             if
             I
             may
             be
             allow'd
             to
             use
             so
             weak
             an
             Expression
             to
             signifie
             the
             Compliments
             and
             Ceremonious
             Niceties
             of
             their
             Salutations
             ,
             which
             are
             so
             extravagant
             ,
             that
             in
             any
             other
             Country
             they
             wou'd
             be
             esteem'd
             Ridiculous
             .
             'T
             is
             pleasant
             to
             observe
             how
             they
             
             court
             one
             another
             when
             they
             meet
             on
             the
             Broglio
             :
             I
             have
             often
             seen
             Noblemen
             who
             stood
             Candidates
             for
             the
             highest
             Preferments
             ,
             prostrate
             themselves
             before
             a
             poor
             Gentleman
             whose
             Vest
             was
             not
             worth
             a
             Groat
             ,
             as
             if
             he
             had
             been
             a
             King
             ,
             or
             somewhat
             more
             than
             Humane
             .
             The
             Venetian
             Salutations
             are
             quite
             different
             from
             Ours
             ;
             they
             perform
             'em
             slowly
             ,
             to
             express
             the
             Modesty
             and
             Humility
             of
             their
             Respect
             ,
             and
             bowing
             their
             Heads
             to
             their
             very
             Knees
             ,
             continue
             sometimes
             for
             the
             Space
             of
             a
             Minute
             in
             that
             Posture
             ,
             offering
             their
             Service
             in
             the
             most
             submissive
             Expressions
             ;
             after
             which
             they
             raise
             their
             Bodies
             ,
             and
             immediately
             begin
             again
             ,
             repeating
             the
             same
             Ceremony
             two
             or
             three
             times
             .
             And
             they
             are
             so
             nicely
             scrupulous
             in
             such
             Cases
             ,
             that
             if
             any
             Nobleman
             shou'd
             venture
             to
             shorten
             his
             Reverences
             ,
             or
             to
             imitate
             the
             French
             Air
             in
             the
             least
             ,
             he
             wou'd
             be
             reckon'd
             a
             base
             Man
             ,
             who
             had
             lost
             all
             Sense
             of
             Honour
             .
          
           
             When
             a
             Stranger
             comes
             to
             serve
             in
             the
             Venetian
             Army
             ,
             he
             must
             immediately
             learn
             their
             Fashions
             ,
             as
             the
             only
             way
             to
             avoid
             their
             Hatred
             ,
             and
             to
             raise
             his
             own
             Fortune
             ;
             tho'
             it
             must
             be
             acknowledg'd
             these
             fawning
             Ceremonies
             are
             extremely
             troublesome
             and
             uneasie
             .
             I
             had
             occasion
             t'other
             Day
             to
             see
             the
             Entry
             of
             a
             Procurator
             ,
             and
             took
             notice
             of
             some
             Colonels
             and
             other
             Officers
             who
             march'd
             before
             the
             Senate
             to
             the
             Church
             ,
             where
             they
             stopt
             within
             the
             Door
             ,
             and
             saluted
             every
             Nobleman
             as
             he
             pass'd
             by
             ,
             with
             a
             Reverence
             ,
             such
             as
             I
             describ'd
             before
             ;
             so
             that
             for
             a
             large
             Quarter
             of
             an
             Hour
             they
             were
             perpetually
             employ'd
             in
             that
             troublesome
             Task
             .
             But
             besides
             those
             profound
             Reverences
             ,
             there
             are
             a
             Thousand
             other
             Niceties
             ,
             and
             nauseous
             Flatteries
             ,
             which
             are
             the
             necessary
             Consequences
             of
             their
             Excessive
             Civility
             .
             You
             must
             weigh
             every
             Expression
             you
             use
             
             either
             in
             Letters
             or
             Discourse
             ;
             for
             't
             is
             not
             enough
             to
             avoid
             the
             Word
             Voi
             or
             You
             ,
             which
             wou'd
             be
             reckon'd
             a
             Downright
             Affront
             ,
             and
             to
             use
             always
             the
             Third
             Person
             Lei
             ,
             or
             Ella
             ,
             but
             you
             must
             take
             care
             to
             repeat
             the
             most
             submissive
             Phrases
             ,
             such
             as
             
               If
               it
               please
               my
               Patron
               ,
               If
               my
               Patron
               vouchsafe
               to
               command
               me
               ,
            
             &c.
             
             You
             must
             still
             say
             ,
             
               My
               Patron
            
             said
             or
             did
             such
             a
             thing
             ;
             and
             whatever
             Epithet
             you
             bestow
             upon
             him
             ,
             you
             must
             never
             forget
             to
             add
             issimo
             to
             the
             End
             of
             it
             ;
             for
             't
             wou'd
             be
             reckon'd
             a
             poor
             Compliment
             to
             call
             a
             Man
             
               Nobile
               ,
               Docto
            
             ,
             or
             Galanto
             ,
             instead
             of
             which
             you
             must
             say
             he
             is
             
               Nobilissimo
               ,
               Doctissimo
            
             ,
             and
             Galantissimo
             .
             The
             same
             ,
             or
             rather
             greater
             Ceremonies
             ,
             are
             observ'd
             in
             Writing
             ;
             I
             remember
             I
             have
             seen
             some
             Letters
             from
             the
             Captain
             Generals
             Cornaro
             and
             Mocenigo
             to
             a
             
               Greek
               Merchant
            
             ,
             in
             which
             they
             gave
             him
             the
             Title
             of
             
               Molto
               Illustre
               Signor
            
             .
             Four
             Fingers
             breadth
             lower
             the
             Letter
             began
             thus
             ,
             
               Ho
               ricevuto
               de
               vostra
               Signoria
               molto
               Illustre
               ,
            
             &c.
             and
             the
             rest
             was
             all
             of
             a
             Piece
             :
             At
             the
             End
             of
             the
             Letter
             were
             these
             Words
             ,
             
               de
               vostra
               Signoria
               molto
               illustre
               ,
               devotissimo
               Servitore
            
             ;
             then
             a
             Space
             of
             Six
             Fingers
             breadth
             ,
             and
             the
             Subscription
             at
             the
             Bottom
             .
             I
             was
             extremely
             surpriz'd
             at
             the
             Extravagancy
             of
             these
             Compliments
             ,
             when
             I
             consider'd
             the
             Quality
             of
             the
             Writers
             ,
             and
             of
             him
             to
             whom
             the
             Letters
             were
             directed
             ;
             and
             I
             leave
             you
             to
             judge
             what
             Ceremonies
             must
             be
             observ'd
             between
             Equals
             .
             A
             Letter
             to
             a
             Nobleman
             must
             be
             directed
             thus
             ,
             
               Al'
               Illustrissimo
               &
               Excellentissimo
               Signor
               ,
               &
               mio
               Padrone
               Colendissimo
               ,
               il
               Signor
               ,
            
             &c.
             and
             the
             Body
             of
             the
             Letter
             must
             be
             sutable
             to
             the
             flattering
             Superscription
             .
             You
             must
             take
             care
             to
             give
             every
             Man
             the
             Titles
             that
             are
             appropriated
             to
             Persons
             of
             his
             Rank
             and
             Quality
             :
             Thus
             when
             you
             speak
             to
             a
             Tradesman
             ,
             you
             must
             call
             him
             
               Signor
               Pietro
            
             ,
             or
             
               Signor
               Paolo
            
             ;
             to
             a
             Citizen
             or
             Merchant
             you
             must
             say
             
               Vostra
               
               Signoria
            
             ,
             and
             ,
             in
             Letters
             ,
             
               Vostra
               Signoria
               molto
               Illustre
            
             .
             A
             
               Counsellor
               ,
               Physician
               ,
               Notary
            
             ,
             or
             a
             Gentleman
             who
             is
             a
             Subject
             is
             styl'd
             
               la
               Signoria
               Illustrissima
            
             ;
             The
             proper
             Title
             of
             the
             Nobles
             is
             
               l'
               Excellenza
            
             ;
             and
             the
             Doge
             is
             usually
             call'd
             
               la
               Serenita
            
             ,
             or
             
               il
               Serenissimo
            
             ;
             for
             they
             rarely
             say
             
               il
               Dogio
            
             .
             But
             when
             they
             say
             
               il
               Principe
            
             ,
             they
             always
             mean
             the
             Republic
             .
             Thus
             all
             Orders
             and
             Proclamations
             begin
             thus
             ,
             
               Il
               Serenissimo
               Principe
               fa
               sapere
               ;
               The
               most
               Serene
               Prince
               declares
               ,
               or
               gives
               Notice
               :
            
             And
             t
             is
             usually
             said
             in
             familiar
             Discourse
             ,
             
               Il
               Principe
               ha
               prohibito
               le
               Pompe
               ;
               The
               Prince
               has
               prohibited
               the
               wearing
               of
               Costly
               Apparel
               ,
            
             &c.
             
             Thus
             they
             speak
             when
             they
             do
             not
             so
             much
             as
             think
             of
             the
             Doge
             ,
             who
             has
             no
             more
             Power
             to
             make
             such
             Regulations
             ,
             than
             the
             meanest
             Officer
             that
             belongs
             to
             the
             Republic
             ;
             and
             far
             from
             being
             a
             Soveraign
             ,
             he
             is
             so
             much
             a
             Subject
             ,
             that
             he
             dares
             hardly
             move
             one
             Inch
             without
             Orders
             .
             
               Francis
               Morosini
            
             ,
             the
             present
             Doge
             ,
             was
             elected
             to
             that
             Dignity
             in
             April
             1688
             ,
             while
             he
             was
             obtaining
             Victories
             for
             the
             Republick
             abroad
             .
             And
             yet
             as
             told
             and
             infirmas
             he
             is
             ,
             he
             was
             forc'd
             to
             continue
             in
             that
             fatiguing
             Employment
             ,
             and
             at
             last
             ,
             with
             much
             ado
             ,
             and
             after
             a
             whole
             Year
             spent
             in
             humble
             and
             earnest
             Solicitations
             ,
             he
             obtain'd
             leave
             to
             quit
             the
             Service
             ,
             and
             return'd
             to
             Venice
             last
             Year
             .
             He
             is
             the
             first
             Doge
             that
             ever
             enter'd
             the
             City
             with
             the
             Ducal
             Coronet
             on
             his
             Head
             :
             Nor
             cou'd
             the
             Senate
             refuse
             to
             grant
             some
             unusual
             Mark
             of
             Honour
             to
             the
             Conqueror
             of
             all
             Morea
             .
             However
             ,
             I
             'm
             strongly
             inclin'd
             to
             suspect
             that
             the
             main
             Consideration
             which
             made
             him
             so
             uneasie
             till
             he
             had
             obtain'd
             a
             Permission
             to
             leave
             the
             Army
             ,
             was
             his
             Fear
             of
             losing
             the
             Glory
             he
             had
             acquir'd
             .
             And
             you
             will
             be
             of
             the
             same
             Opinion
             if
             you
             consider
             the
             ill
             Success
             of
             his
             Attempt
             upon
             Negropont
             ;
             and
             the
             slow
             Progress
             he
             made
             in
             the
             Siege
             of
             
               Napoli
               di
               Malvasia
            
             ,
             which
             
             held
             out
             two
             Years
             against
             him
             ,
             and
             was
             still
             in
             so
             good
             a
             Condition
             at
             his
             Departure
             ,
             that
             there
             was
             little
             or
             no
             hope
             of
             reducing
             it
             ;
             tho'
             for
             want
             of
             Provisions
             the
             Garrison
             was
             oblig'd
             to
             surrender
             the
             Place
             to
             the
             General
             during
             the
             last
             Campaign
             .
          
           
             The
             length
             of
             this
             Siege
             puts
             me
             in
             mind
             of
             Candy
             ,
             which
             for
             so
             long
             a
             time
             was
             attack'd
             and
             defended
             with
             equal
             Obstinacy
             and
             Vigour
             .
             'T
             was
             the
             same
             Morosini
             who
             commanded
             in
             the
             Place
             ,
             and
             the
             Senate
             being
             unwilling
             to
             waste
             so
             much
             Blood
             and
             Treasure
             in
             the
             Defence
             of
             a
             Place
             which
             ,
             after
             all
             ,
             they
             cou'd
             not
             hope
             to
             preserve
             ,
             sent
             him
             positive
             Orders
             to
             Capitulate
             .
             But
             he
             was
             so
             desirous
             of
             Glory
             ,
             and
             had
             so
             mean
             an
             Opinion
             of
             the
             Turkish
             Valour
             ,
             that
             he
             assur'd
             the
             Senate
             ,
             if
             they
             wou'd
             continue
             to
             supply
             him
             with
             necessary
             Provisions
             ,
             he
             wou'd
             either
             save
             the
             Place
             ,
             or
             bury
             himself
             under
             its
             Ruines
             .
             Yet
             ,
             for
             all
             his
             bravery
             ,
             he
             was
             forc'd
             to
             submit
             to
             the
             Chance
             of
             War
             ,
             without
             performing
             either
             part
             of
             his
             Promise
             :
             And
             at
             his
             return
             to
             Venice
             he
             had
             the
             mortification
             to
             meet
             with
             a
             very
             bad
             Reception
             on
             the
             Broglio
             .
             Some
             of
             the
             Nobles
             were
             so
             incens'd
             against
             him
             ,
             that
             they
             discover'd
             their
             Spite
             by
             abusing
             him
             to
             his
             Face
             ,
             asking
             by
             way
             of
             Derision
             ,
             
               Ha!
               is
               not
               this
            
             Morosini
             ;
             while
             others
             reply'd
             with
             equal
             Bitterness
             and
             Contempt
             ,
             
               No
               ,
               no
               ,
               that
               can't
               be
               the
               Man
               who
               promis'd
               to
               bury
               himself
               under
               the
               Ruines
               of
            
             Candy
             ,
             
               if
               he
               shou'd
               find
               himself
               unable
               to
               preserve
               it
               .
            
             But
             the
             Malice
             of
             his
             Enemies
             did
             not
             evaporate
             in
             Jests
             ,
             they
             were
             not
             satisfy'd
             with
             so
             poor
             a
             Revenge
             ,
             but
             prosecuted
             him
             so
             warmly
             ,
             that
             his
             Head
             was
             in
             a
             tottering
             Condition
             .
             One
             of
             'em
             represented
             his
             Crime
             to
             the
             Council
             ,
             and
             in
             a
             vehement
             and
             pathetic
             Discourse
             ,
             accus'd
             him
             of
             abusing
             the
             Senate
             ,
             by
             promising
             such
             things
             as
             he
             cou'd
             not
             
             perform
             ,
             and
             of
             engaging
             the
             Republick
             in
             a
             prodigious
             Charge
             ,
             which
             might
             have
             been
             better
             employ'd
             another
             way
             .
             Nor
             was
             this
             the
             single
             Opinion
             of
             one
             Person
             ,
             for
             several
             others
             voted
             him
             guilty
             :
             Yet
             his
             good
             Fortune
             deliver'd
             him
             from
             so
             great
             a
             Danger
             ,
             and
             has
             now
             set
             the
             Coronet
             on
             his
             Head
             ;
             he
             is
             somewhat
             lean
             ,
             and
             of
             a
             middle
             Stature
             ;
             his
             Hair
             and
             Beard
             are
             white
             ;
             he
             wears
             Whiskers
             ,
             and
             a
             little
             Tuft
             of
             Hair
             upon
             his
             Chin.
             I
             saw
             him
             at
             the
             Entry
             of
             his
             Kinsman
             the
             Procurator
             Morosini
             ;
             and
             since
             I
             have
             occasion
             again
             to
             speak
             of
             that
             Solemnity
             ,
             which
             I
             only
             mention'd
             before
             ,
             I
             shall
             now
             give
             you
             a
             particular
             Account
             of
             it
             :
             But
             before
             I
             describe
             the
             Order
             of
             the
             Cavalcade
             ,
             it
             will
             not
             be
             improper
             to
             acquaint
             you
             with
             the
             Preparations
             that
             were
             made
             in
             the
             Church
             of
             S.
             Mark.
             
          
           
             From
             the
             Door
             of
             the
             Nave
             or
             Body
             of
             the
             Church
             to
             that
             of
             the
             Quire
             ,
             there
             was
             a
             Lane
             border'd
             with
             Rows
             of
             Benches
             ,
             thro'
             which
             the
             Doge
             and
             Procurators
             were
             to
             pass
             ;
             and
             both
             the
             Floor
             and
             Benches
             were
             cover'd
             with
             
               Turkish
               Tapestry
            
             .
             The
             Quire
             was
             also
             full
             of
             Benches
             ,
             without
             any
             Difference
             or
             Mark
             of
             Distinction
             ;
             only
             the
             
             Doge's
             Place
             was
             cover'd
             with
             red
             Velvet
             ;
             and
             besides
             ,
             there
             was
             a
             Cushion
             of
             the
             same
             Velvet
             at
             his
             Feet
             ,
             and
             another
             on
             the
             Place
             where
             he
             lean'd
             at
             Prayer
             .
             The
             Altar
             was
             embellish'd
             with
             the
             richest
             Jewels
             ,
             Relicks
             ,
             Candlesticks
             ,
             and
             other
             Ornaments
             ;
             and
             the
             Patiarch's
             great
             Vicar
             waited
             in
             his
             Seat
             for
             the
             
             Doge's
             coming
             .
             He
             wore
             a
             Chasuble
             embroider'd
             with
             Pearls
             ,
             worth
             above
             6000
             Ducats
             ;
             and
             the
             Hangings
             of
             the
             Altar
             were
             no
             less
             rich
             .
          
           
             The
             Church
             being
             thus
             prepar'd
             ,
             the
             Signiory
             or
             Noblemen
             began
             their
             Cavalcade
             from
             the
             Hall
             of
             the
             Great
             Council
             in
             S.
             
             Mark
             's
             Palace
             ,
             where
             they
             were
             assembl'd
             to
             assist
             at
             the
             Solemnity
             .
             
             In
             the
             first
             place
             march'd
             the
             
             Doge's
             Servants
             ,
             to
             the
             Number
             of
             Forty
             ,
             in
             long
             Livery
             Cloaks
             .
             Then
             came
             the
             Societies
             of
             Tradesmen
             ,
             or
             rather
             a
             confus'd
             Company
             of
             private
             Persons
             who
             came
             of
             their
             own
             accord
             to
             honour
             the
             new
             Procurator
             ;
             for
             their
             Presence
             was
             not
             requir'd
             by
             any
             positive
             Order
             .
             These
             were
             follow'd
             by
             a
             Hundred
             Sclavonian
             Soldiers
             ,
             arm'd
             only
             with
             Sabres
             ,
             who
             had
             obtain'd
             leave
             to
             come
             from
             the
             Army
             ,
             and
             appear'd
             on
             this
             Occasion
             at
             the
             desire
             of
             their
             Commanders
             .
             Twelve
             or
             Fifteen
             Officers
             march'd
             before
             'em
             ,
             among
             whom
             was
             a
             Sergeant
             Major
             ;
             and
             there
             were
             some
             also
             in
             the
             Rear
             .
             These
             Officers
             were
             not
             arm'd
             ,
             because
             they
             came
             voluntarily
             ,
             not
             by
             command
             ;
             for
             at
             Venice
             every
             Man
             is
             welcome
             on
             such
             Occasions
             ,
             tho'
             he
             be
             not
             invited
             .
             Then
             came
             the
             Eight
             Standards
             of
             the
             Republick
             ,
             Two
             Red
             ,
             Two
             White
             ,
             Two
             Blue
             ,
             and
             Two
             of
             a
             Violet-colour
             ;
             the
             Red
             being
             carry'd
             first
             ,
             to
             signifie
             the
             present
             War.
             These
             were
             immediately
             follow'd
             by
             the
             Signiory
             ,
             who
             march'd
             Two
             and
             Two
             ,
             in
             open-sleev'd
             Gowns
             ,
             or
             Robes
             of
             Red
             Cloth
             furr'd
             with
             Ermines
             .
             There
             were
             at
             least
             Three
             hundred
             Nobles
             ,
             comprehending
             the
             Senators
             and
             the
             Procurators
             ,
             who
             form'd
             the
             last
             Ranks
             ,
             and
             consequently
             were
             next
             the
             Doge
             .
             He
             that
             made
             his
             Entry
             walk'd
             among
             the
             rest
             ,
             without
             any
             Mark
             of
             Distinction
             either
             in
             his
             Habit
             ,
             or
             any
             other
             Respect
             ;
             so
             that
             if
             some
             Persons
             had
             not
             shew'd
             him
             to
             to
             me
             ,
             I
             cou'd
             not
             have
             distinguish'd
             him
             from
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             Procurators
             .
             The
             Robes
             or
             Gowns
             of
             all
             the
             Procurators
             are
             exactly
             alike
             ;
             nor
             is
             there
             any
             difference
             among
             the
             Nobles
             in
             respect
             of
             their
             Habits
             ;
             that
             so
             none
             may
             pretend
             to
             Superiority
             over
             another
             .
             After
             them
             came
             the
             Doge
             ,
             who
             represents
             the
             Soveraign
             :
             He
             had
             a
             Vest
             of
             Red
             Brocado
             ,
             with
             Gold
             Flowers
             ,
             and
             
             over
             that
             a
             Duc●●
             Mantle
             ,
             of
             a
             very
             rich
             Stuff
             of
             Gold.
             His
             Coronet
             is
             a
             Cap
             of
             Pastboard
             neatly
             cover'd
             with
             the
             same
             rich
             Stuff
             ,
             and
             adorn'd
             with
             some
             Galoons
             ,
             without
             either
             Pearls
             or
             Precious
             Stones
             .
             There
             is
             a
             sort
             of
             Point
             on
             the
             hinder
             part
             of
             the
             Cap
             ,
             that
             bends
             a
             little
             forwards
             .
             The
             magnificent
             Coronet
             that
             is
             kept
             in
             the
             Treasury
             ,
             is
             only
             us'd
             on
             the
             Day
             of
             the
             
             Doge's
             Coronation
             .
             He
             was
             accompany'd
             on
             the
             Right-hand
             by
             the
             Pope's
             Nuncio
             ,
             and
             on
             the
             Left
             by
             the
             French
             Ambassador
             ,
             
               Monsieur
               de
               la
               Haye
            
             .
             The
             first
             was
             in
             a
             Camail
             and
             Rochet
             ,
             and
             the
             other
             in
             a
             black
             Cloak
             .
             Two
             Citizens
             bore
             the
             
             Doge's
             Train
             ,
             which
             otherwise
             wou'd
             have
             trail'd
             above
             four
             Feet
             on
             the
             Ground
             .
             Last
             of
             all
             march'd
             Fifty
             or
             Sixty
             Nobles
             ,
             in
             the
             same
             Order
             as
             before
             .
             As
             the
             Noblemen
             pass'd
             by
             ,
             there
             were
             certain
             old
             and
             young
             Women
             that
             strew'd
             the
             Way
             with
             Flowers
             and
             Green
             Leaves
             ,
             especially
             before
             the
             Doge
             :
             In
             the
             mean
             time
             the
             Guns
             at
             the
             Arsenal
             were
             fir'd
             ,
             and
             the
             Company
             was
             entertain'd
             with
             the
             Noise
             of
             the
             Prince's
             Trumpets
             and
             Kettle-Drums
             ,
             which
             were
             plac'd
             on
             the
             Top
             of
             the
             Portico
             of
             the
             Church
             ,
             between
             the
             two
             Brazen
             Horses
             ,
             from
             whence
             they
             might
             be
             easily
             heard
             ,
             because
             't
             is
             not
             Three
             hundred
             Paces
             from
             thence
             to
             the
             Hall
             of
             the
             Great
             Council
             .
             As
             soon
             as
             the
             Doge
             enter'd
             ,
             he
             went
             immediately
             to
             perform
             his
             Devotions
             upon
             the
             Steps
             of
             the
             Altar
             ,
             where
             he
             kneel'd
             without
             a
             Cushion
             .
             As
             he
             return'd
             to
             his
             Place
             ,
             the
             Nuncio
             happen'd
             to
             be
             on
             his
             Left-hand
             ,
             and
             the
             Ambassador
             on
             his
             Right
             ,
             but
             they
             instantly
             chang'd
             Places
             ,
             and
             proceeded
             as
             before
             to
             the
             Place
             where
             the
             Doge
             was
             to
             sit
             .
             After
             the
             Doge
             had
             seated
             himself
             ,
             the
             Nuncio
             sate
             down
             on
             his
             Right-hand
             ,
             and
             
               Monsieur
               de
               la
               Haye
            
             took
             his
             Place
             on
             the
             Right-hand
             of
             the
             Nuncio
             ;
             so
             that
             
             the
             Nuncio
             sate
             between
             the
             Doge
             and
             the
             Ambassador
             .
             This
             preposterous
             Order
             will
             perhaps
             surprize
             you
             ;
             for
             according
             to
             the
             Ceremonies
             that
             are
             observ'd
             on
             such
             Occasions
             ,
             the
             Doge
             ought
             to
             have
             sate
             in
             the
             Middle
             :
             But
             I
             had
             forgot
             to
             tell
             you
             ,
             that
             there
             was
             no
             particular
             Place
             appointed
             for
             the
             Doge
             ,
             neither
             a
             Tribune
             ,
             Pew
             ,
             nor
             so
             much
             as
             an
             arm'd
             Chair
             ;
             so
             that
             he
             was
             forc'd
             to
             make
             use
             of
             the
             Seat
             that
             belongs
             to
             the
             Dean
             of
             the
             Canons
             ,
             which
             is
             the
             first
             on
             the
             Right-hand
             next
             the
             Door
             of
             the
             Quire.
             The
             rest
             of
             the
             Seats
             in
             the
             same
             Row
             were
             fill'd
             by
             the
             Procurators
             and
             Senators
             ;
             so
             that
             the
             Doge
             had
             only
             the
             first
             Place
             among
             the
             Senators
             ,
             without
             any
             other
             Mark
             of
             Distinction
             than
             the
             red
             Velvet
             with
             which
             his
             Seat
             was
             cover'd
             .
          
           
             The
             
             Doge's
             Behaviour
             during
             the
             Mass
             was
             not
             very
             edifying
             ,
             for
             he
             spent
             the
             whole
             time
             in
             discoursing
             with
             the
             Nuncio
             and
             the
             French
             Ambassador
             ,
             and
             express'd
             a
             great
             deal
             of
             Earnestness
             by
             his
             Actions
             .
             Tho'
             I
             cou'd
             not
             pretend
             to
             divine
             the
             Subject
             of
             his
             Discourse
             ,
             I
             cou'd
             easily
             perceive
             that
             he
             talk'd
             of
             some
             important
             Affair
             ;
             for
             
               Monsieur
               de
               la
               Haye
            
             rose
             from
             his
             Place
             ,
             and
             talk'd
             with
             him
             above
             a
             quarter
             of
             an
             Hour
             ,
             chusing
             rather
             to
             stand
             while
             the
             Nuncio
             sate
             ,
             and
             to
             turn
             his
             Back
             to
             the
             Altar
             ,
             than
             to
             lose
             the
             Opportunity
             of
             imparting
             something
             with
             which
             ,
             in
             all
             probability
             ,
             he
             long'd
             to
             entertain
             him
             .
             After
             the
             Mass
             was
             ended
             ,
             the
             Doge
             and
             Nobles
             return'd
             in
             the
             same
             Order
             as
             before
             ,
             to
             the
             Palace
             of
             S.
             Mark
             ,
             where
             they
             were
             regal'd
             by
             the
             New
             Procurator
             with
             a
             splendid
             Collation
             of
             Wax
             ,
             for
             so
             it
             might
             be
             properly
             call'd
             ,
             since
             most
             of
             the
             Dishes
             contain'd
             nothing
             else
             .
             The
             whole
             Table
             was
             cover'd
             with
             Trophies
             ,
             Confections
             ,
             Turky-Cocks
             ,
             Partridges
             ,
             and
             Fruits
             represented
             in
             Wax
             ,
             
             excepting
             two
             or
             three
             Places
             where
             there
             were
             Dishes
             of
             good
             and
             delicious
             Victuals
             :
             For
             the
             Italian
             Cooks
             are
             at
             least
             as
             skilful
             as
             ours
             .
             I
             never
             saw
             People
             eat
             more
             heartily
             than
             these
             Gentlemen
             ,
             and
             I
             'm
             apt
             to
             believe
             that
             their
             Custom
             of
             serving
             up
             the
             Dishes
             singly
             might
             sharpen
             their
             Appetite
             ;
             for
             't
             is
             certain
             that
             the
             very
             sight
             of
             a
             full
             Table
             cloys
             the
             Stomach
             .
             Yet
             I
             cou'd
             not
             forbear
             telling
             one
             of
             the
             Company
             ,
             that
             this
             manner
             of
             Entertainment
             ,
             and
             especially
             the
             Feast
             of
             Trophies
             was
             very
             odd
             and
             ridiculous
             :
             But
             the
             Person
             to
             whom
             I
             addrest
             my self
             ,
             made
             a
             shift
             to
             answer
             my
             Objection
             by
             pretending
             that
             they
             observ'd
             this
             Method
             to
             avoid
             the
             trouble
             of
             covering
             so
             large
             a
             Table
             several
             times
             ,
             which
             cou'd
             not
             be
             done
             without
             Confusion
             .
          
           
             That
             and
             the
             two
             following
             Days
             were
             spent
             in
             rejoycing
             ;
             The
             Streets
             were
             full
             of
             People
             in
             Masquerade
             ,
             and
             the
             Merchants
             expos'd
             their
             richest
             Commodities
             .
             There
             was
             nothing
             to
             be
             seen
             in
             the
             Shops
             but
             Brocado's
             of
             Gold
             and
             Silver
             ,
             Galoons
             ,
             Fringes
             ,
             and
             Ribbons
             ;
             Sonnets
             in
             Honour
             of
             the
             Procurator
             were
             scatter'd
             about
             by
             Thousands
             ,
             and
             Prints
             of
             him
             every
             where
             hung
             out
             .
             At
             Night
             there
             were
             great
             Illuminations
             at
             his
             Palace
             ,
             and
             at
             that
             of
             S.
             Mark
             ;
             and
             the
             whole
             City
             in
             the
             general
             seem'd
             to
             be
             full
             of
             Joy
             ;
             tho'
             't
             is
             certain
             the
             Pomp
             wou'd
             have
             been
             much
             greater
             if
             the
             Magistrates
             ,
             to
             whom
             the
             Regulation
             of
             such
             Ceremonies
             does
             properly
             belong
             ,
             had
             not
             publish'd
             an
             Order
             three
             Days
             before
             ,
             to
             moderate
             the
             Expence
             of
             the
             Solemnity
             :
             For
             otherwise
             the
             whole
             City
             wou'd
             have
             been
             illuminated
             ,
             the
             Ladies
             wou'd
             have
             adorn'd
             themselves
             with
             Pearls
             and
             Jewels
             ,
             all
             the
             Lacqueys
             wou'd
             have
             appear'd
             in
             Liveries
             ,
             and
             the
             Canal
             wou'd
             have
             been
             cover'd
             with
             magnificent
             Gondola's
             ,
             embellish'd
             with
             Flaggs
             and
             Streamers
             ,
             and
             
             fill'd
             with
             Consorts
             of
             Musick
             .
             Besides
             the
             Procurator's
             Friends
             wou'd
             have
             signaliz'd
             their
             Joy
             in
             a
             particular
             manner
             ,
             by
             Feasts
             ,
             Illuminations
             ,
             and
             Fire-Works
             :
             But
             all
             this
             Pageantry
             was
             prevented
             by
             a
             positive
             Order
             from
             the
             above-mention'd
             Tribunal
             .
             At
             the
             same
             time
             ,
             another
             Edict
             was
             publish'd
             ,
             which
             concerns
             all
             Persons
             in
             general
             ,
             and
             is
             only
             a
             Repetition
             of
             those
             Regulations
             that
             were
             formerly
             made
             on
             such
             Occasions
             .
             By
             this
             last
             Order
             all
             Venetians
             ,
             whether
             Nobles
             or
             Citizens
             ,
             are
             prohibited
             to
             wear
             any
             sort
             of
             Stuff
             ,
             embroider'd
             Fringe
             or
             Galoon
             ,
             of
             Gold
             ,
             Silver
             ,
             Steel
             ,
             or
             any
             thing
             that
             shines
             or
             casts
             a
             Lustre
             .
             The
             same
             Edict
             forbids
             Lace
             ,
             new
             Fashions
             of
             Cloaths
             ,
             Liveries
             ,
             and
             the
             Painting
             or
             Adorning
             of
             Gondola's
             ;
             and
             restrains
             the
             Women
             from
             using
             Gold
             or
             Silver
             Ribbons
             ,
             and
             from
             wearing
             above
             three
             Rows
             of
             Fringes
             or
             Lace
             on
             their
             Pettycoats
             ,
             and
             even
             those
             Ornaments
             must
             only
             be
             worn
             on
             the
             Fore-part
             of
             the
             Pettycoat
             .
             But
             those
             who
             are
             call'd
             Novices
             are
             allow'd
             ,
             during
             the
             two
             first
             Years
             of
             their
             Noviciate
             ,
             to
             wear
             a
             String
             of
             Pearls
             ,
             and
             a
             Gold
             Fringe
             about
             their
             Pettycoats
             .
             The
             Novices
             are
             such
             as
             are
             newly
             married
             .
          
           
             All
             Strangers
             are
             excus'd
             from
             complying
             with
             this
             Order
             for
             six
             Months
             after
             the
             Day
             of
             their
             Arrival
             ;
             but
             assoon
             as
             that
             time
             is
             expir'd
             ,
             they
             must
             submit
             to
             the
             Custom
             as
             well
             as
             the
             Natives
             ,
             unless
             they
             belong
             to
             the
             Retinue
             of
             an
             Ambassadour
             ;
             tho'
             Offences
             of
             this
             Nature
             are
             rarely
             punish'd
             .
          
           
             When
             I
             consider
             the
             extreme
             Eagerness
             with
             which
             the
             Noble
             Venetians
             contend
             for
             the
             Ducal
             Dignity
             ,
             I
             cannot
             forbear
             reflecting
             on
             the
             Weakness
             of
             Humane
             Nature
             ,
             which
             exposes
             us
             to
             the
             most
             fatal
             Delusions
             ,
             and
             prompts
             us
             to
             court
             the
             dazzling
             Appearances
             of
             Grandeur
             ,
             tho'
             we
             are
             
             convinc'd
             of
             the
             Vanity
             of
             that
             Enjoyment
             in
             which
             we
             seem
             to
             place
             our
             Happiness
             .
             For
             ,
             in
             my
             Opinion
             ,
             the
             Condition
             of
             a
             simple
             Senatour
             is
             infinitely
             more
             happy
             than
             that
             of
             the
             Doge
             .
             He
             is
             permitted
             to
             enjoy
             the
             Pleasure
             of
             Walking
             ,
             to
             visit
             his
             Friends
             ,
             and
             to
             go
             to
             the
             Opera
             and
             Ridotti
             .
             He
             is
             not
             perpetually
             watch'd
             ,
             and
             haunted
             Night
             and
             Day
             by
             a
             Multitude
             of
             Spies
             ,
             under
             the
             Name
             of
             Counsellours
             ;
             nor
             is
             he
             oblig'd
             to
             give
             an
             exact
             Account
             of
             his
             Actions
             .
             But
             the
             Doge
             is
             a
             gawdy
             Slave
             loaded
             with
             Fetters
             ,
             which
             are
             not
             the
             less
             heavy
             because
             they
             are
             gilded
             :
             And
             his
             Authority
             extends
             no
             farther
             ,
             than
             to
             nominate
             some
             Officers
             of
             the
             Palace
             ,
             and
             to
             create
             some
             
               Knights
               of
               S.
               Mark.
            
             
          
           
             This
             Order
             of
             Knighthood
             may
             be
             divided
             into
             three
             Classes
             or
             Ranks
             .
             The
             First
             comprehends
             the
             
               Knights
               of
               the
               Golden
               Star
            
             ,
             who
             are
             all
             Noble
             Veneians
             ,
             that
             owe
             their
             Dignity
             to
             their
             Merit
             ,
             and
             wear
             a
             Star
             border'd
             with
             a
             Gold
             Galoon
             .
             The
             Second
             Rank
             consists
             of
             the
             
               Knights
               of
               S.
               Mark
            
             ,
             who
             are
             call'd
             
               Knights
               of
               the
               Senate
            
             :
             And
             this
             Honour
             is
             usually
             conferr'd
             as
             a
             Recompence
             ,
             on
             Colonels
             ,
             and
             even
             sometimes
             on
             Captains
             ,
             who
             have
             signaliz'd
             their
             Bravery
             in
             an
             extraordinary
             manner
             ,
             or
             render'd
             some
             important
             Services
             to
             the
             Republic
             .
             The
             Captain-General
             recommends
             the
             Person
             to
             the
             Senate
             ,
             who
             ,
             if
             the
             Balloting
             run
             in
             his
             Favour
             ,
             receives
             the
             Order
             ,
             and
             with
             it
             a
             Pension
             of
             at
             least
             a
             Thousand
             Ducats
             a
             Year
             .
             These
             Knights
             wear
             a
             Medal
             at
             one
             of
             their
             Button-holes
             ,
             with
             the
             Figure
             of
             S.
             Mark
             on
             one
             Side
             ,
             and
             a
             Device
             on
             the
             Reverse
             ,
             according
             to
             the
             Pleasure
             of
             the
             Senate
             .
             They
             are
             honour'd
             with
             the
             Title
             of
             Illustrissimo
             ,
             and
             are
             much
             respected
             :
             but
             the
             Dignity
             is
             indifferently
             bestow'd
             upon
             all
             ,
             whether
             Noble
             or
             Ignoble
             ,
             Venetians
             or
             Foreigners
             .
             The
             Third
             and
             last
             Rank
             is
             made
             up
             
             of
             the
             
               Doge's
               Knights
            
             ,
             who
             confers
             the
             Honour
             on
             whom
             he
             pleases
             ,
             and
             oftentimes
             on
             those
             who
             never
             wore
             a
             Sword
             ;
             for
             any
             Man
             may
             purchase
             the
             Title
             of
             Illustrissimo
             at
             the
             Rate
             of
             a
             Hundred
             Sequins
             ,
             which
             ,
             if
             I
             am
             not
             mistaken
             ,
             is
             the
             usual
             Price
             of
             this
             Dignity
             .
             Yet
             notwithstanding
             the
             Lowness
             of
             the
             Rate
             ,
             the
             Doge
             finds
             but
             few
             Customers
             ;
             for
             the
             Italians
             are
             not
             over-fond
             of
             so
             unprofitable
             Honour
             .
             So
             that
             this
             Classis
             of
             Knights
             consists
             chiefly
             of
             Foreign
             Officers
             ,
             who
             receive
             some
             Benefit
             by
             the
             Title
             ;
             since
             it
             not
             only
             procures
             'em
             a
             more
             than
             ordinary
             Respect
             ,
             but
             confirms
             'em
             in
             the
             Possession
             of
             their
             Employments
             .
          
           
             Since
             the
             mentioning
             of
             these
             Officers
             puts
             me
             in
             mind
             of
             the
             Venetian
             Army
             ,
             I
             shall
             take
             this
             Occasion
             to
             give
             you
             some
             Account
             of
             the
             Forces
             that
             are
             maintain'd
             by
             the
             Republick
             .
             The
             total
             Number
             of
             the
             Soldiers
             both
             at
             Land
             and
             Sea
             ,
             hardly
             amounts
             to
             Four
             and
             twenty
             thousand
             ;
             and
             of
             these
             there
             are
             usually
             Twelve
             or
             Fifteen
             thousand
             in
             the
             Field
             .
             The
             Captain-General
             ,
             who
             commands
             'em
             ,
             is
             always
             a
             Noble
             Venetian
             ,
             and
             has
             under
             him
             a
             
               General
               of
               the
               Land-Forces
               ,
               Lieutenant-Generals
               ,
            
             and
             Sergeant-Majors
             ,
             who
             are
             almost
             al-always
             Foreigners
             ;
             for
             the
             Noble
             Venetians
             are
             not
             very
             ambitious
             of
             Military
             Employments
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             they
             cannot
             be
             accus'd
             of
             Want
             of
             Courage
             ;
             but
             since
             a
             Soldier
             must
             serve
             his
             Apprenticeship
             with
             his
             Musquet
             on
             his
             Shoulder
             ,
             before
             he
             can
             attain
             to
             any
             Perfection
             in
             his
             Art
             ,
             they
             cannot
             endure
             to
             think
             of
             stooping
             so
             low
             :
             and
             even
             there
             is
             hardly
             one
             of
             'em
             that
             wou'd
             not
             think
             it
             beneath
             him
             to
             accept
             a
             Captain
             's
             Commission
             .
             The
             Soldiers
             are
             for
             the
             most
             part
             Foreigners
             ,
             as
             well
             as
             the
             Generals
             ;
             for
             ,
             except
             three
             or
             four
             small
             Italian
             Regiments
             ,
             which
             are
             not
             much
             esteem'd
             ,
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             Army
             consists
             either
             
             of
             Germans
             ,
             or
             Frenchmen
             ,
             whom
             they
             call
             Tramontani
             .
             The
             Pay
             of
             Foreigners
             is
             double
             to
             that
             which
             is
             allow'd
             to
             the
             Italians
             ;
             and
             no
             Captain
             must
             receive
             a
             Soldier
             of
             another
             Nation
             into
             his
             Company
             ,
             under
             Pain
             of
             being
             cashier'd
             without
             Remission
             .
             But
             the
             same
             Order
             is
             not
             observ'd
             in
             the
             Italian
             Regiments
             ,
             for
             any
             Man
             may
             be
             admitted
             to
             serve
             in
             '
             em
             .
             And
             since
             the
             Foreign
             Captains
             wou'd
             be
             at
             a
             Loss
             for
             want
             of
             Men
             ,
             the
             Republic
             takes
             care
             to
             supply
             'em
             with
             Recruits
             :
             Only
             they
             must
             be
             very
             cautious
             in
             preventing
             the
             Desertion
             of
             their
             Men
             ;
             for
             when
             a
             Company
             is
             extremely
             diminish'd
             ,
             the
             Captain
             is
             always
             reform'd
             ,
             and
             the
             Soldiers
             serve
             to
             recruit
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             Regiment
             .
             I
             know
             several
             Officers
             ,
             who
             lost
             their
             Places
             by
             Misfortunes
             of
             this
             Nature
             ;
             which
             sometimes
             cannot
             be
             avoided
             ,
             especially
             among
             the
             French
             ,
             who
             desert
             by
             Hundreds
             at
             a
             time
             .
             If
             it
             were
             not
             for
             this
             only
             Inconveniency
             ,
             I
             shou'd
             have
             a
             very
             good
             Opinion
             of
             the
             Venetian
             Service
             ;
             for
             a
             Foreign
             Captain
             has
             no
             less
             than
             a
             Hundred
             Ducats
             a
             Month
             ,
             which
             makes
             
               Two
               hundred
               and
               fifty
               French
            
             Livres
             ;
             a
             Lieutenant
             has
             Thirty
             ,
             and
             an
             
               Ensign
               Twenty
               five
            
             .
             Besides
             there
             is
             not
             a
             Place
             in
             the
             World
             where
             a
             Soldier
             has
             a
             nearer
             Prospect
             of
             Advancement
             ;
             for
             since
             the
             Army
             is
             not
             very
             Numerous
             ,
             and
             the
             Noble
             Venetians
             never
             pretend
             to
             Military
             Preferments
             ,
             a
             Stranger
             has
             a
             fair
             Opportunity
             of
             raising
             his
             Fortune
             :
             So
             that
             a
             Captain
             must
             either
             be
             extremely
             unfortunate
             ,
             or
             negligent
             in
             the
             Performance
             of
             his
             Duty
             ,
             if
             his
             Service
             be
             not
             rewarded
             with
             a
             
             Colonel's
             Commission
             ,
             or
             even
             with
             more
             considerable
             Preferment
             .
             The
             Army
             is
             full
             of
             Sergeant-Majors
             ,
             who
             owe
             their
             Fortune
             meerly
             to
             their
             Merit
             ;
             and
             there
             is
             no
             Post
             so
             high
             which
             a
             brave
             Man
             may
             not
             in
             time
             hope
             to
             obtain
             .
             'T
             is
             a
             wonderful
             Encouragement
             to
             a
             Young
             Aspirer
             ,
             
             to
             see
             daily
             so
             many
             Examples
             that
             flatter
             and
             excite
             his
             Ambition
             .
             Besides
             their
             travelling
             by
             Sea
             frees
             'em
             from
             the
             Charge
             of
             providing
             an
             Equipage
             ;
             which
             is
             a
             great
             Advantage
             to
             those
             who
             are
             not
             over-stock'd
             with
             Money
             .
             Add
             to
             these
             Conveniencies
             the
             free
             and
             unconstrain'd
             Way
             of
             living
             
               a-la-mode
               de
               Venice
            
             ;
             and
             it
             must
             be
             acknowledg'd
             ,
             that
             a
             Man
             may
             easily
             chuse
             a
             less
             comfortable
             Employment
             .
             I
             know
             the
             World
             has
             generally
             so
             bad
             an
             Opinion
             of
             the
             Venetian
             Service
             ,
             that
             't
             is
             usually
             the
             last
             Refuge
             of
             those
             who
             are
             reduc'd
             to
             Extremity
             :
             Nor
             am
             I
             ignorant
             that
             the
             Officers
             are
             not
             here
             on
             the
             same
             Foot
             as
             in
             France
             ,
             and
             that
             the
             meanest
             Scoundrels
             find
             Admittance
             ;
             but
             ,
             after
             all
             ,
             the
             Service
             is
             not
             really
             less
             advantageous
             for
             these
             Inconveniencies
             .
          
           
             But
             ,
             as
             for
             the
             Common
             Soldiers
             ,
             their
             Condition
             is
             so
             miserable
             ,
             that
             I
             wou'd
             rather
             chuse
             to
             serve
             a
             Tinker
             ,
             than
             to
             carry
             a
             Musquet
             at
             Venice
             .
             Their
             Pay
             amounts
             to
             no
             more
             than
             
               Three
               Pence
            
             a
             Day
             ;
             and
             besides
             they
             must
             furnish
             their
             own
             Clothes
             .
             Judge
             then
             what
             Provision
             they
             can
             make
             for
             their
             Bellies
             ,
             and
             whether
             their
             Desertion
             can
             be
             reckon'd
             a
             Fault
             .
             Those
             who
             serve
             at
             Sea
             have
             the
             same
             Pay
             ,
             and
             Clothes
             into
             the
             Bargain
             ;
             but
             they
             must
             buy
             their
             Provisions
             ,
             for
             they
             are
             allow'd
             only
             Bread
             and
             Water
             .
             There
             are
             Eleven
             Ships
             belonging
             to
             the
             Republic
             ,
             commanded
             by
             the
             Captain-General
             ;
             for
             there
             is
             no
             Admiral
             .
             But
             besides
             the
             little
             Care
             that
             is
             taken
             to
             keep
             'em
             in
             Repair
             ,
             they
             are
             so
             defective
             in
             all
             Respects
             ,
             that
             they
             hardly
             deserve
             the
             Name
             of
             Ships
             ,
             much
             less
             of
             
               Men
               of
               War.
            
             In
             every
             Ship
             there
             is
             a
             Noble
             Venetian
             ,
             with
             the
             Title
             of
             Commander
             ,
             who
             pehaps
             never
             saw
             a
             Mast
             before
             his
             coming
             on
             Board
             :
             but
             he
             has
             under
             him
             a
             Captain
             ,
             whom
             he
             consults
             ,
             or
             rather
             suffers
             to
             command
             .
             
             These
             Captains
             (
             who
             are
             usually
             old
             and
             expert
             Pilots
             )
             have
             Thirty
             Ducats
             a
             Month
             besides
             their
             Entertainment
             ;
             and
             may
             in
             time
             be
             advanc'd
             to
             the
             Command
             of
             a
             Merchant-Ship
             ,
             if
             the
             Owners
             think
             fit
             to
             trust
             '
             em
             .
             The
             Banner
             of
             Venice
             is
             Red
             ,
             with
             a
             Lyon
             in
             the
             Middle
             ,
             holding
             an
             open
             Book
             in
             one
             of
             his
             Paws
             ,
             with
             these
             Words
             ,
             
               Pax
               tibi
               ,
               Marce
               ,
               Evangelista
               meus
               .
            
             Many
             take
             this
             Lyon
             for
             the
             Arms
             of
             Venice
             ,
             but
             they
             are
             extremely
             mistaken
             ;
             for
             the
             Republic
             has
             no
             Coat
             of
             Arms
             ,
             and
             wou'd
             be
             loth
             to
             adorn
             a
             Scutcheon
             with
             that
             Sacred
             Beast
             ,
             whom
             they
             honour
             as
             an
             Emblem
             of
             S.
             Mark
             ,
             or
             rather
             that
             Evangelist
             himself
             represented
             under
             the
             Figure
             of
             a
             Lyon.
             I
             knew
             that
             Painters
             usually
             give
             that
             Saint
             a
             Lyon
             for
             his
             Companion
             ;
             but
             I
             cou'd
             not
             believe
             that
             the
             
               Venetian
               Lyon
            
             was
             the
             Saint
             himself
             ,
             till
             I
             was
             convinc'd
             by
             the
             repeated
             Affirmations
             of
             several
             credible
             Persons
             ,
             and
             even
             of
             some
             Noblemen
             ;
             who
             ,
             to
             satisfie
             my
             Scruples
             ,
             told
             me
             the
             following
             Story
             .
          
           
             S.
             Mark
             was
             a
             Youth
             of
             such
             exquisite
             Beauty
             ,
             that
             his
             only
             Sister
             fell
             so
             desperately
             in
             Love
             with
             him
             ,
             that
             notwithstanding
             all
             his
             Holy
             Admonitions
             ,
             she
             haunted
             him
             Night
             and
             Day
             ,
             follow'd
             him
             whithersoever
             he
             went
             ,
             and
             continually
             begg'd
             him
             to
             satisfie
             her
             Passion
             .
             At
             last
             the
             young
             Saint
             perceiving
             that
             all
             his
             Severity
             cou'd
             not
             extinguish
             her
             Criminal
             Flame
             ,
             besought
             God
             to
             transform
             him
             into
             the
             most
             hideous
             Creature
             in
             the
             World.
             His
             Prayer
             was
             granted
             ,
             and
             he
             was
             instantly
             turn'd
             to
             a
             Lyon
             ,
             whose
             gaping
             Mouth
             ,
             and
             horrid
             Roaring
             ,
             so
             terrify'd
             his
             Sister
             ,
             that
             immediately
             she
             fell
             upon
             her
             Knees
             ,
             pray'd
             to
             God
             to
             forgive
             her
             ,
             and
             was
             converted
             .
             The
             
               Open
               Book
            
             he
             holds
             in
             his
             Talons
             ,
             represents
             the
             Gospel
             ,
             of
             which
             they
             pretend
             to
             have
             the
             Original
             in
             the
             Treasury
             ;
             and
             the
             
             Words
             that
             are
             written
             in
             it
             are
             the
             same
             with
             which
             Christ
             saluted
             him
             when
             he
             came
             to
             visit
             him
             in
             Prison
             .
          
           
             Perhaps
             you
             'll
             think
             that
             this
             Story
             deserves
             a
             place
             in
             
             Ovid's
             Metamorphoses
             ;
             but
             I
             can
             assure
             you
             the
             Venetians
             are
             oblig'd
             to
             believe
             it
             ,
             under
             Pain
             of
             being
             accounted
             Hereticks
             .
             Sometimes
             they
             represent
             him
             with
             ,
             and
             sometimes
             without
             Wings
             ,
             but
             they
             seldom
             or
             never
             forget
             to
             draw
             Rays
             about
             his
             Head
             ;
             and
             very
             often
             the
             Doge
             is
             painted
             kneeling
             before
             him
             .
             At
             least
             he
             is
             thus
             represented
             in
             all
             the
             most
             remarkable
             Places
             ,
             such
             as
             the
             Front
             of
             the
             Palace
             of
             S.
             Mark
             ,
             &c.
             
          
           
             I
             'm
             sensible
             I
             have
             already
             detain'd
             you
             too
             long
             ,
             but
             I
             must
             not
             finish
             my
             Letter
             before
             I
             have
             finish'd
             the
             Account
             I
             promis'd
             to
             give
             you
             of
             the
             
               Venetian
               Nobles
            
             .
             I
             had
             form'd
             so
             strange
             an
             Idea
             from
             the
             Character
             I
             had
             receiv'd
             of
             'em
             ,
             that
             I
             look'd
             upon
             'em
             as
             the
             most
             Haughty
             and
             Ill-natur'd
             Men
             in
             the
             World.
             And
             even
             a
             Famous
             Author
             has
             the
             Confidence
             to
             affirm
             that
             one
             of
             their
             usual
             Recreations
             is
             to
             affront
             Strangers
             who
             seem
             to
             be
             Persons
             of
             Note
             ;
             thrusting
             'em
             into
             the
             Canal
             as
             they
             walk
             along
             the
             Streets
             ,
             spitting
             upon
             'em
             at
             the
             Opera
             ,
             beating
             'em
             with
             flaming
             Torches
             ,
             and
             hiring
             Bravo's
             to
             murder
             '
             em
             .
             Yet
             to
             do
             Justice
             to
             that
             Illustrious
             Body
             ,
             I
             can
             assure
             you
             ,
             that
             I
             never
             met
             with
             more
             civil
             and
             obliging
             Persons
             in
             the
             World.
             I
             have
             the
             Honour
             to
             know
             two
             or
             three
             of
             'em
             ,
             and
             perceive
             daily
             so
             many
             conspicuous
             Marks
             of
             good
             Nature
             in
             all
             their
             Actions
             ,
             that
             I
             cannot
             ,
             without
             Indignation
             ,
             reflect
             on
             the
             Impudence
             of
             those
             who
             have
             so
             unjustly
             blacken'd
             their
             Character
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             they
             take
             Care
             to
             maintain
             the
             Honour
             of
             their
             Birth
             ,
             and
             their
             Authority
             over
             the
             Citizens
             and
             the
             rest
             of
             their
             Subjects
             :
             but
             they
             
             are
             so
             far
             from
             insulting
             or
             tyrannizing
             over
             'em
             ,
             that
             they
             are
             always
             ready
             to
             grant
             their
             Protection
             to
             honest
             Men
             ;
             and
             as
             for
             Strangers
             ,
             there
             is
             not
             a
             City
             in
             the
             World
             where
             they
             meet
             with
             a
             kinder
             and
             more
             civil
             Entertainment
             .
             They
             may
             do
             what
             they
             please
             ,
             for
             no
             Man
             either
             enquires
             into
             ,
             or
             comments
             upon
             their
             Actions
             ;
             and
             when
             they
             meet
             with
             a
             Nobleman
             ,
             they
             are
             treated
             with
             all
             imaginable
             Marks
             of
             Honour
             and
             Civility
             .
             There
             are
             several
             Coffee-Houses
             under
             the
             Procuraties
             ,
             some
             of
             which
             are
             set
             apart
             for
             the
             Nobility
             ;
             and
             that
             Order
             is
             so
             strictly
             observ'd
             that
             a
             Citizen
             never
             enters
             into
             '
             em
             .
             But
             if
             a
             Foreigner
             ,
             who
             has
             the
             Appearance
             of
             a
             Gentleman
             ,
             go
             in
             to
             one
             of
             these
             Places
             ,
             all
             the
             Nobles
             that
             are
             there
             begin
             immediately
             to
             caress
             him
             ;
             and
             there
             is
             not
             one
             of
             'em
             who
             wou'd
             not
             willingly
             embrace
             the
             Offer
             of
             his
             Acquaintance
             ,
             provided
             he
             belongs
             not
             to
             the
             Retinue
             of
             an
             Ambassador
             :
             for
             they
             are
             severely
             prohibited
             by
             the
             Laws
             of
             the
             State
             to
             entertain
             any
             correspondence
             with
             such
             Persons
             .
          
           
             As
             for
             the
             Bravo's
             ,
             I
             will
             not
             pretend
             to
             affirm
             that
             Venice
             was
             never
             plagu'd
             with
             those
             barbarous
             and
             inhuman
             Murderers
             .
             It
             must
             be
             acknowledg'd
             that
             the
             Senate
             tolerated
             these
             Abuses
             too
             long
             :
             There
             was
             a
             time
             when
             some
             Nobles
             kept
             Fifteen
             or
             Twenty
             o●
             those
             Ruffians
             ;
             and
             there
             were
             others
             who
             were
             still
             ready
             to
             serve
             any
             Man
             in
             their
             Way
             ,
             that
             is
             ,
             for
             so
             many
             Sequins
             wou'd
             agree
             to
             kill
             a
             Man
             ,
             or
             to
             break
             his
             Arms
             for
             such
             a
             Number
             of
             Ducats
             .
             But
             the
             Face
             of
             Affairs
             is
             wonderfully
             chang'd
             since
             that
             time
             ,
             and
             so
             vast
             a
             Number
             of
             those
             Villains
             have
             ended
             their
             Lives
             either
             on
             a
             Gibbet
             ,
             or
             in
             the
             Galleys
             ,
             that
             the
             Race
             of
             'em
             seems
             to
             be
             quite
             extinct
             .
             The
             Shirts
             of
             Mail
             that
             were
             sold
             in
             those
             Days
             for
             
               Fifty
               Pistoles
            
             a-piece
             ,
             are
             now
             sold
             
             for
             
               half
               a
               Crown
            
             to
             Fishermen
             ,
             who
             use
             'em
             for
             catching
             Oysters
             :
             For
             these
             Cautions
             ,
             that
             were
             once
             thought
             so
             necessary
             for
             preventing
             secret
             Assassinations
             ,
             are
             now
             become
             so
             useless
             ,
             that
             one
             may
             walk
             as
             secure
             thro'
             the
             City
             by
             Night
             as
             by
             Day
             ,
             and
             during
             the
             Carnaval
             as
             in
             Lent
             :
             At
             least
             I
             have
             not
             yet
             heard
             of
             any
             Disord●rs
             since
             my
             Arrival
             .
             On
             the
             contrary
             ,
             I
             shou'd
             never
             desire
             to
             converse
             with
             a
             more
             harmless
             and
             peaceable
             People
             ;
             and
             if
             there
             are
             any
             Insolencies
             committed
             ,
             I
             shou'd
             rather
             accuse
             the
             French
             as
             the
             Authors
             of
             'em
             ,
             who
             in
             this
             ,
             as
             well
             as
             in
             all
             other
             Places
             ,
             assume
             those
             Liberties
             by
             which
             they
             affect
             to
             distinguish
             themselves
             from
             other
             Nations
             .
             Only
             I
             wou'd
             not
             advise
             any
             Man
             to
             hunt
             too
             boldly
             in
             a
             Nobleman's
             Inclosure
             ;
             for
             't
             is
             certain
             that
             there
             is
             none
             of
             'em
             so
             Complaisant
             as
             to
             see
             his
             Wife
             kiss'd
             ,
             without
             resenting
             the
             Affront
             ,
             and
             that
             notwithstanding
             the
             seeming
             Extirpation
             of
             the
             Bravo's
             ,
             the
             injur'd
             Nobleman
             wou'd
             quickly
             find
             a
             sufficient
             Number
             of
             'em
             to
             execute
             his
             Revenge
             .
             Their
             Jealousie
             is
             accompany'd
             with
             so
             implacable
             a
             Fury
             ,
             that
             they
             wou'd
             rather
             ruine
             themselves
             and
             their
             whole
             Family
             ,
             than
             suffer
             a
             bold
             Intruder
             into
             their
             secret
             Delights
             to
             escape
             unpunish'd
             ;
             and
             after
             they
             had
             sacrific'd
             the
             Lover
             to
             their
             Rage
             ,
             they
             wou'd
             infallibly
             compleat
             their
             Revenge
             by
             the
             Death
             of
             her
             who
             betray'd
             '
             em
             .
             Such
             Accidents
             have
             sometimes
             happen'd
             ,
             and
             't
             is
             to
             be
             observ'd
             ,
             that
             in
             such
             Cases
             the
             Senate
             never
             enquires
             into
             the
             Murder
             .
             For
             every
             Nobleman
             may
             poison
             his
             Wife
             for
             Adultery
             ,
             and
             cause
             her
             Gallant
             to
             be
             poniarded
             ,
             without
             fearing
             to
             be
             call'd
             in
             question
             for
             so
             bloody
             a
             Revenge
             ;
             since
             't
             is
             suppos'd
             that
             no
             Man
             wou'd
             have
             recourse
             to
             such
             violent
             Methods
             ,
             if
             he
             were
             not
             fully
             convinc'd
             of
             his
             Wife's
             Infidelity
             .
             I
             confess
             this
             way
             of
             satisfying
             their
             Revenge
             seems
             at
             first
             
             View
             to
             be
             extremely
             base
             and
             unworthy
             of
             a
             Man
             of
             Honour
             :
             But
             you
             will
             be
             the
             less
             surpriz'd
             at
             their
             manner
             of
             Proceeding
             in
             these
             Cases
             ,
             if
             you
             consider
             that
             ,
             notwithstanding
             their
             Nobility
             ,
             't
             is
             not
             their
             Profession
             to
             bear
             Arms.
             For
             they
             are
             as
             much
             
               Men
               of
               the
               Gown
            
             as
             the
             Presidents
             of
             the
             Parliament
             at
             Paris
             ;
             and
             are
             therefore
             under
             a
             sort
             of
             Obligation
             to
             abstain
             from
             Duels
             .
             Nevertheless
             since
             't
             is
             not
             just
             that
             they
             shou'd
             tamely
             suffer
             themselves
             to
             be
             Cuckolded
             ,
             they
             must
             execute
             their
             Vengeance
             by
             Proxy
             ,
             since
             their
             Profession
             restrains
             em
             from
             making
             their
             own
             Hands
             the
             Instruments
             of
             their
             Revenge
             .
          
           
             I
             shall
             in
             the
             next
             place
             give
             you
             a
             short
             Account
             of
             their
             Habit
             :
             They
             wear
             a
             black
             Gown
             exactly
             like
             that
             of
             a
             
               Minime
               Friar
            
             ;
             only
             't
             is
             longer
             ,
             wider
             ,
             and
             open
             before
             ;
             the
             Sleeves
             are
             so
             big
             that
             they
             hang
             down
             almost
             to
             the
             Ground
             ,
             and
             they
             have
             a
             little
             Collar
             or
             Neckband
             like
             that
             which
             is
             us'd
             by
             the
             Jesuites
             .
             In
             the
             Winter
             their
             Gowns
             are
             lin'd
             with
             a
             greyish
             Fur
             ,
             which
             reaches
             a
             hands-breadth
             beyond
             the
             Cloth
             ,
             all
             along
             the
             Breast
             ,
             and
             are
             ty'd
             about
             with
             a
             Leathern-Girdle
             ,
             adorn'd
             with
             Silver
             Buckles
             and
             Bosses
             .
             In
             Summer
             they
             use
             neither
             Girdles
             nor
             Furrs
             ;
             for
             they
             wear
             their
             Vests
             loose
             by
             reason
             of
             the
             Heat
             ,
             and
             line
             'em
             with
             very
             thin
             Taffata
             :
             But
             they
             still
             wear
             Cloth
             Gowns
             of
             the
             same
             bigness
             as
             in
             Winter
             .
             On
             their
             Shoulders
             they
             wear
             a
             sort
             of
             Bag
             or
             Hood
             of
             the
             same
             Cloth
             ,
             call'd
             the
             Stole
             ,
             18
             or
             20
             Inches
             broad
             ,
             and
             twice
             as
             long
             ,
             which
             is
             extremely
             troublesome
             .
             Under
             their
             Gowns
             they
             have
             only
             a
             little
             Doublet
             ,
             almost
             quite
             cover'd
             with
             black
             Lace
             ,
             and
             adorn'd
             with
             Ribbans
             at
             the
             turning
             up
             of
             the
             Sleeves
             .
             Their
             Shirts
             are
             always
             very
             white
             and
             fine
             .
             Their
             Breeches
             are
             open
             and
             very
             wide
             ,
             like
             those
             that
             were
             us'd
             by
             Citizens
             in
             France
             Fifty
             Years
             ago
             ;
             
             and
             they
             are
             also
             full
             of
             Lace
             and
             Ribbans
             .
             This
             Garb
             is
             both
             stately
             and
             cheap
             ;
             for
             a
             Gown
             lasts
             at
             least
             three
             or
             four
             Years
             .
             The
             only
             Fault
             I
             find
             in
             their
             Habit
             is
             that
             they
             use
             neither
             Bands
             nor
             Cravates
             .
             Formerly
             they
             were
             oblig'd
             to
             wear
             their
             own
             Hair
             ,
             but
             now
             they
             use
             the
             finest
             and
             longest
             Periwigs
             ,
             which
             is
             certainly
             one
             of
             the
             most
             necessary
             parts
             of
             their
             Dress
             :
             for
             their
             Caps
             are
             so
             ill-contriv'd
             ,
             that
             there
             can
             be
             nothing
             more
             proper
             to
             disfigure
             a
             Man's
             Face
             ,
             which
             perhaps
             is
             the
             reason
             why
             at
             present
             they
             only
             wear
             'em
             in
             their
             Hands
             like
             a
             Fan.
             
          
           
             These
             Nobles
             ,
             notwithstanding
             the
             Dignity
             of
             their
             Character
             ,
             scruple
             not
             to
             go
             to
             the
             Market
             ,
             and
             buy
             all
             the
             little
             Provisions
             that
             are
             requir'd
             for
             the
             maintaining
             of
             a
             Family
             .
             But
             I
             believe
             they
             are
             injur'd
             by
             those
             who
             pretend
             that
             they
             carry
             home
             their
             Provisions
             in
             the
             Sleeves
             of
             their
             Gowns
             ;
             for
             there
             are
             Porters
             or
             Cestarioli
             ,
             who
             have
             no
             other
             Occupation
             ,
             and
             whose
             Hire
             is
             so
             small
             ,
             that
             even
             the
             meanest
             Tradesmen
             make
             use
             of
             '
             em
             .
             Nor
             must
             you
             imagine
             that
             the
             Principal
             and
             Rich
             Nobles
             buy
             their
             own
             Provisions
             ;
             for
             the
             Markets
             are
             only
             frequented
             by
             the
             poorer
             sort
             of
             Gentlemen
             ,
             of
             whom
             there
             is
             a
             considerable
             Number
             ,
             and
             whose
             Condition
             is
             the
             more
             deplorable
             ,
             because
             they
             must
             not
             endeavour
             to
             improve
             it
             by
             Trading
             .
          
           
             I
             know
             not
             what
             Apology
             to
             make
             for
             the
             excessive
             Length
             of
             my
             Letter
             ,
             unless
             you
             will
             be
             satisfy'd
             with
             that
             common
             Excuse
             for
             all
             sorts
             of
             Faults
             ,
             that
             I
             did
             not
             intend
             it
             .
             I
             confess
             that
             will
             not
             make
             amends
             for
             the
             trouble
             I
             have
             given
             you
             ,
             but
             I
             hope
             you
             'll
             for
             once
             admit
             a
             Plea
             that
             can
             never
             be
             more
             justly
             urg'd
             than
             in
             Cases
             of
             this
             Nature
             ;
             for
             it
             oftentimes
             happens
             ,
             that
             when
             a
             Man
             comes
             to
             the
             End
             of
             the
             Leaf
             where
             he
             design'd
             to
             have
             ended
             his
             Letter
             ,
             he
             
             finds
             himself
             oblig'd
             to
             begin
             another
             ,
             and
             perhaps
             two
             or
             three
             before
             he
             can
             finish
             his
             Matter
             .
          
           
             I
             am
             ,
             
               SIR
               ,
            
             
               Your
               ,
               &c.
               
            
             
               Venice
               ,
               
                 1692.
                 
              
            
          
        
         
           
             LETTER
             XXIX
             .
          
           
             
               SIR
               ,
            
          
           
             I
             Have
             seen
             the
             famous
             Ceremony
             of
             Ascension-Day
             ,
             and
             was
             so
             transported
             with
             Pleasure
             at
             the
             Sight
             of
             that
             celebrated
             Solemnity
             ,
             that
             I
             was
             strongly
             tempted
             ,
             and
             almost
             fully
             resolv'd
             to
             send
             you
             a
             Description
             of
             it
             .
             But
             upon
             second
             and
             cooler
             Thoughts
             ,
             I
             consider'd
             that
             I
             cou'd
             add
             nothing
             to
             what
             so
             many
             Authors
             have
             already
             said
             on
             that
             Subject
             ,
             and
             therefore
             I
             shall
             only
             tell
             you
             ,
             that
             the
             prodigious
             Quantity
             of
             Gondola's
             that
             cover'd
             the
             whole
             Surface
             of
             the
             Sea
             from
             Venice
             to
             the
             Mouth
             of
             the
             Lido
             ,
             made
             me
             almost
             give
             Credit
             to
             the
             usual
             Computation
             of
             the
             Venetians
             ,
             who
             affirm
             ,
             that
             there
             are
             
               Five
               and
               twenty
               Thousand
               Gondola's
            
             in
             the
             City
             .
             The
             Number
             of
             those
             little
             Vessels
             might
             be
             more
             easily
             calculated
             than
             that
             of
             the
             Inhabitants
             ;
             because
             every
             Gondolier
             is
             oblig'd
             to
             pay
             a
             certain
             Tax
             to
             the
             State.
             The
             Dexterity
             of
             these
             Boatmen
             is
             surprizing
             ,
             and
             even
             almost
             incredible
             ;
             for
             tho'
             they
             seem
             to
             fly
             as
             swift
             as
             a
             Bird
             ,
             and
             tho'
             the
             Canals
             are
             both
             narrow
             ,
             and
             in
             several
             Places
             cross
             one
             another
             ,
             they
             never
             run
             foul
             of
             those
             whom
             they
             meet
             .
             
             To
             avoid
             the
             Disorders
             that
             happen
             on
             such
             Occasions
             ,
             they
             make
             a
             Noise
             at
             each
             Corner
             of
             the
             Canal
             to
             give
             Warning
             to
             those
             that
             are
             within
             the
             reach
             of
             their
             Voice
             ,
             who
             answer
             in
             a
             Dialect
             consisting
             of
             Words
             that
             are
             only
             known
             to
             themselves
             ,
             such
             as
             
               Preci
               ,
               Prami
            
             ,
             and
             Sia
             ,
             which
             they
             understand
             so
             well
             ,
             that
             immediately
             they
             turn
             their
             Gondola's
             ,
             and
             pass
             by
             without
             touching
             one
             another
             .
             These
             Gondola's
             ,
             which
             are
             all
             made
             after
             the
             same
             Fashion
             ,
             from
             that
             which
             belongs
             to
             the
             first
             Procurator
             to
             those
             that
             are
             commonly
             hir'd
             ,
             are
             a
             sort
             of
             flat-bottom'd
             ,
             narrow
             ,
             and
             very
             long
             Boats.
             In
             the
             middle
             there
             is
             a
             little
             Chamber
             cover'd
             with
             course
             black
             Serge
             ,
             with
             an
             Opening
             before
             instead
             of
             a
             Door
             ;
             and
             on
             each
             Side
             there
             is
             a
             Window
             that
             may
             be
             shut
             with
             Curtains
             ,
             or
             sometimes
             with
             a
             Piece
             of
             the
             same
             Serge
             which
             hangs
             at
             the
             Top
             of
             the
             Gondola
             ,
             and
             is
             usually
             turn'd
             up
             in
             fair
             Weather
             .
             The
             Price
             of
             a
             Gondola
             ready
             made
             amounts
             to
             five
             and
             twenty
             Ducats
             ;
             but
             in
             those
             that
             belong
             to
             some
             of
             the
             principal
             Noblemen
             ,
             there
             are
             Grates
             that
             sometimes
             cost
             above
             a
             Hundred
             Crowns
             ;
             and
             besides
             ,
             the
             Windows
             may
             be
             adorn'd
             with
             Glasses
             like
             those
             that
             are
             us'd
             on
             Coaches
             ;
             which
             is
             all
             the
             Embellishment
             that
             is
             allow'd
             by
             the
             Republick
             .
             The
             meanest
             Gondolier
             earns
             half
             a
             Ducat
             a
             Day
             ;
             and
             there
             are
             some
             who
             will
             not
             serve
             under
             a
             Crown
             :
             So
             that
             considering
             that
             every
             Gondola
             requires
             four
             Men
             ,
             it
             will
             be
             found
             at
             the
             End
             of
             the
             Reckoning
             that
             one
             of
             these
             Boats
             consumes
             as
             much
             Money
             as
             the
             keeping
             of
             a
             Coach
             and
             Six
             Horses
             .
          
           
             The
             Ceremony
             of
             the
             Bucentaur
             ,
             according
             to
             the
             usual
             Custom
             ,
             was
             succeeded
             by
             a
             very
             magnificent
             Feast
             ,
             that
             lasted
             Fifteen
             Days
             .
             This
             may
             be
             reckon'd
             a
             second
             Carnaval
             ,
             and
             does
             really
             exceed
             the
             first
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             there
             are
             no
             
             Opera's
             nor
             
             Comedies
             ,
             but
             that
             Defect
             is
             more
             than
             supply'd
             by
             the
             enlivening
             Beauty
             of
             the
             Season
             ,
             and
             by
             one
             of
             the
             finest
             and
             richest
             Fairs
             in
             Europe
             ,
             which
             is
             kept
             in
             the
             Place
             of
             S.
             Mark
             ,
             and
             in
             the
             Broglio
             ,
             where
             the
             Shops
             are
             rank'd
             with
             such
             a
             harmonious
             Proportion
             and
             Uniformity
             ,
             that
             one
             wou'd
             think
             it
             were
             a
             City
             purposely
             built
             for
             Pleasure
             .
             The
             Street
             of
             the
             Goldsmiths
             ,
             and
             that
             of
             the
             Mercers
             are
             extremely
             magnificent
             ;
             for
             the
             Shops
             are
             full
             of
             the
             richest
             Commodities
             ,
             and
             every
             Morning
             and
             Evening
             one
             may
             have
             the
             Pleasure
             to
             see
             the
             best
             Company
             in
             Town
             ,
             and
             especially
             the
             Ladies
             ,
             who
             come
             to
             oblige
             the
             longing
             Spectators
             with
             a
             View
             of
             their
             Charms
             ,
             and
             to
             make
             Strangers
             confess
             that
             they
             are
             better
             furnish'd
             with
             the
             noblest
             Ornament
             of
             their
             Sex
             than
             all
             the
             most
             celebrated
             Beauties
             in
             other
             Countries
             .
             And
             I
             cannot
             forbear
             adding
             upon
             this
             Occasion
             ,
             that
             the
             Liberty
             I
             observ'd
             in
             this
             Place
             seems
             to
             be
             altogether
             inconsistent
             with
             the
             Slavery
             which
             these
             fair
             ones
             are
             said
             to
             suffer
             .
             'T
             is
             certain
             that
             the
             Ladies
             in
             this
             Place
             are
             more
             closely
             confin'd
             than
             in
             France
             ;
             but
             their
             Restraint
             is
             not
             so
             severe
             as
             we
             commonly
             imagine
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             't
             wou'd
             be
             thought
             indecent
             for
             a
             Woman
             to
             walk
             ,
             or
             to
             entertain
             a
             private
             Discourse
             with
             those
             of
             our
             Sex
             ;
             nor
             is
             it
             usual
             for
             Ladies
             to
             make
             Matches
             for
             Gaming
             .
             But
             to
             make
             amends
             for
             these
             Niceties
             ,
             they
             are
             permitted
             to
             see
             Opera's
             and
             Plays
             ,
             to
             go
             to
             the
             Ridotti
             ,
             the
             Fresco
             ,
             and
             Fairs
             ,
             and
             to
             walk
             about
             the
             Streets
             in
             Masquerade
             ,
             either
             alone
             or
             in
             Company
             .
             I
             leave
             you
             to
             judge
             whether
             their
             Confinement
             be
             so
             rigorous
             as
             't
             is
             usually
             represented
             ,
             and
             whether
             they
             have
             reason
             to
             complain
             of
             the
             Severity
             of
             their
             Husbands
             .
             For
             my
             part
             ,
             I
             'm
             apt
             to
             think
             that
             there
             are
             few
             Men
             in
             France
             or
             Holland
             that
             wou'd
             willingly
             allow
             their
             Wives
             the
             
             Liberty
             to
             go
             abroad
             without
             any
             other
             Company
             than
             one
             or
             two
             Maids
             ,
             and
             after
             they
             have
             run
             Masqu'd
             about
             the
             Streets
             all
             Day
             long
             ,
             to
             pop
             into
             a
             publick
             Gaming-House
             ,
             where
             there
             are
             more
             Courtesans
             than
             any
             other
             Company
             .
             This
             is
             the
             usual
             Recreation
             of
             the
             Venetian
             Ladies
             ,
             which
             they
             daily
             use
             without
             exposing
             themselves
             to
             their
             Husband's
             Anger
             ,
             or
             the
             Censure
             of
             their
             Neighbours
             ;
             tho'
             in
             such
             Frolicks
             they
             meet
             with
             many
             a
             fair
             Opportunity
             of
             indulging
             themselves
             in
             more
             criminal
             Diversions
             ;
             for
             they
             are
             perpetually
             surrounded
             with
             Temptations
             ,
             and
             't
             is
             impossible
             for
             a
             Lady
             to
             ramble
             about
             a
             whole
             Day
             without
             hearing
             Twenty
             Compliments
             of
             that
             Nature
             .
             'T
             is
             the
             Custom
             of
             the
             Place
             ,
             and
             the
             particular
             Privilege
             both
             of
             the
             Carnaval
             and
             Fair
             ,
             that
             any
             Man
             may
             demand
             the
             
               last
               Favour
            
             of
             a
             Woman
             whom
             he
             finds
             alone
             in
             a
             Vizor-Mask
             ;
             for
             that
             Circumstance
             alone
             gives
             her
             the
             Denomination
             of
             
               Signora
               Mascara
            
             ,
             and
             she
             's
             reckon'd
             as
             lawful
             Prize
             as
             if
             she
             were
             cloath'd
             in
             the
             obscenest
             and
             most
             extravagant
             Garb.
             You
             may
             freely
             accost
             any
             Woman
             that
             wears
             this
             Badge
             ,
             without
             putting
             off
             your
             Hat
             ,
             or
             using
             any
             other
             Ceremony
             whatsoever
             ;
             but
             if
             they
             return
             no
             Answer
             to
             your
             second
             or
             third
             Question
             ,
             you
             may
             leave
             off
             your
             Courtship
             ,
             and
             conclude
             that
             they
             will
             not
             be
             debauch'd
             .
             Nevertheless
             't
             is
             highly
             dangerous
             to
             use
             the
             same
             Freedom
             with
             a
             Lady
             that
             walks
             without
             a
             Mask
             ;
             for
             in
             such
             Cases
             we
             are
             only
             allow'd
             the
             Privilege
             of
             Gazing
             and
             Wishing
             ,
             and
             all
             other
             Liberties
             are
             so
             rigorously
             prohibited
             ,
             that
             the
             highest
             Affront
             that
             can
             be
             offer'd
             to
             a
             Woman
             ,
             is
             to
             salute
             her
             ;
             for
             none
             but
             Curtezans
             will
             permit
             that
             Freedom
             .
          
           
             These
             Masquerades
             are
             not
             only
             very
             diverting
             ,
             but
             extremely
             commodious
             for
             several
             sorts
             of
             People
             .
             How
             many
             Persons
             are
             there
             who
             wou'd
             be
             confin'd
             
             to
             their
             Houses
             by
             the
             Gravity
             of
             their
             Character
             ,
             if
             such
             a
             Disguise
             did
             not
             give
             'em
             an
             Opportunity
             of
             sharing
             in
             the
             publi●
             Diversions
             .
             How
             many
             Princes
             ,
             Dukes
             ,
             Procurators
             ,
             and
             other
             Persons
             of
             high
             Quality
             ,
             take
             the
             Advantage
             of
             so
             savourable
             an
             Occasion
             to
             shake
             off
             that
             Load
             of
             Grandeur
             with
             which
             they
             are
             continually
             oppress'd
             ;
             and
             breaking
             loose
             from
             their
             gawdy
             Prisons
             ,
             ramble
             about
             Incognito
             among
             the
             Crowd
             ,
             and
             find
             more
             Pleasure
             in
             personating
             a
             Citizen
             or
             Tradesman
             ,
             than
             ever
             they
             cou'd
             enjoy
             in
             their
             Palaces
             .
             For
             a
             Mask
             has
             this
             admirable
             Quality
             ,
             that
             it
             can
             in
             a
             Moment
             transform
             a
             Prince
             into
             a
             Porter
             ;
             and
             one
             of
             the
             greatest
             Advantages
             of
             such
             a
             surprizing
             Metamorphosis
             is
             ,
             that
             every
             Man
             may
             resume
             his
             own
             Figure
             when
             he
             pleases
             .
             If
             we
             may
             believe
             the
             Venetians
             ,
             a
             certain
             Great
             Prince
             ,
             who
             is
             known
             over
             all
             the
             World
             ,
             scrupl'd
             not
             to
             act
             a
             part
             in
             these
             agreeable
             Frolicks
             .
          
           
             The
             whole
             Carnaval
             ,
             and
             the
             Festival
             after
             Ascension-Day
             is
             spent
             in
             Masquerading
             ,
             and
             all
             that
             while
             there
             seems
             to
             be
             a
             New
             Republic
             form'd
             in
             the
             midst
             of
             the
             other
             .
             There
             is
             an
             universal
             Change
             in
             the
             Habits
             ,
             Customs
             ,
             and
             Laws
             .
             All
             Marks
             of
             Distinction
             and
             Superiority
             are
             forgotten
             ,
             or
             at
             least
             neglected
             ;
             All
             Persons
             are
             ,
             or
             seem
             to
             be
             equal
             :
             Respect
             ,
             Constraint
             ,
             Ceremony
             ,
             Care
             ,
             and
             Business
             ,
             are
             banish'd
             from
             Society
             ,
             and
             are
             succeeded
             by
             Joy
             ,
             Liberty
             ,
             and
             an
             agreeable
             Sort
             of
             Folly.
             Under
             this
             Disguise
             many
             pleasant
             Intrigues
             are
             carry'd
             on
             ;
             and
             Strangers
             are
             oblig'd
             to
             that
             Concealer
             of
             Blushes
             for
             many
             a
             happy
             Moment
             .
             I
             know
             one
             that
             was
             accosted
             by
             a
             Lady
             ,
             who
             carry'd
             him
             to
             a
             little
             House
             ;
             where
             ,
             having
             open'd
             the
             Door
             with
             a
             Key
             that
             she
             had
             in
             her
             Pocket
             ,
             she
             put
             him
             in
             Possession
             of
             a
             thousand
             charming
             Beauties
             ;
             yet
             all
             his
             Arguments
             and
             Intreaties
             
             cou'd
             not
             procure
             him
             a
             sight
             of
             her
             Face
             ;
             for
             her
             Mask
             was
             ty'd
             on
             with
             a
             Silver
             Chain
             fasten'd
             with
             a
             little
             Padlock
             .
             But
             the
             strangest
             Mascara
             that
             ever
             I
             had
             occasion
             to
             see
             ,
             or
             perhaps
             that
             ever
             appear'd
             in
             Venice
             ,
             was
             a
             Woman
             who
             came
             to
             the
             Fair
             ,
             cover'd
             from
             Head
             to
             Foot
             with
             a
             sort
             of
             long
             Gown
             or
             Shroud
             .
             She
             had
             no
             Clothes
             under
             it
             ,
             not
             so
             much
             as
             a
             Smock
             ,
             and
             from
             time
             to
             time
             she
             open'd
             her
             Gown
             ,
             and
             oblig'd
             the
             Company
             with
             a
             full
             View
             of
             her
             Wares
             .
             Thus
             she
             walk'd
             three
             or
             four
             times
             about
             the
             Fair
             ,
             and
             was
             doubtless
             very
             narrowly
             and
             attententively
             view'd
             by
             the
             Spectators
             .
             This
             Frollick
             was
             thought
             to
             be
             occasion'd
             by
             a
             Wager
             .
          
           
             During
             the
             Fair
             ,
             the
             whole
             Place
             of
             S.
             Mark
             ,
             and
             part
             of
             the
             Broglio
             ,
             is
             cover'd
             with
             Shops
             :
             The
             other
             part
             is
             full
             of
             
               Juglers
               ,
               Tumblers
               ,
               Puppet-Players
               ,
               Bears
               ,
            
             and
             Mountebanks
             ,
             who
             are
             dancing
             frequented
             by
             all
             sorts
             of
             People
             ,
             from
             the
             Nobleman
             to
             the
             Gondelier
             .
             But
             the
             greatest
             Croud
             is
             about
             certain
             Female-Astrologers
             ,
             who
             are
             mounted
             on
             little
             Stages
             or
             Scaffolds
             ,
             cover'd
             with
             Lace
             and
             Ribbons
             like
             Puppets
             ;
             their
             Faces
             painted
             white
             and
             red
             ,
             and
             surrounded
             with
             a
             great
             Number
             of
             Books
             ,
             full
             of
             Figures
             and
             Characters
             ,
             tho'
             they
             understand
             no
             more
             of
             'em
             than
             to
             distinguish
             the
             White
             from
             the
             Black.
             There
             are
             also
             some
             Men
             who
             follow
             the
             same
             Trade
             ;
             but
             they
             are
             not
             so
             much
             follow'd
             as
             the
             Women
             ,
             whose
             triple
             Top-knots
             draw
             the
             Multitude
             after
             '
             em
             .
             They
             sit
             upon
             a
             Chair
             ,
             from
             whence
             ,
             as●from
             a
             Tripos
             ,
             they
             blow
             good
             Fortune
             to
             their
             Customers
             thro'
             a
             Tin
             Trunk
             eight
             or
             ten
             Foot
             long
             ,
             the
             Querist
             putting
             the
             other
             End
             to
             his
             Ear.
             The
             Price
             of
             a
             Consultation
             is
             no
             more
             than
             Five-pence
             ;
             and
             for
             so
             small
             a
             Summ
             you
             may
             have
             the
             Promise
             of
             as
             much
             Honour
             and
             Riches
             as
             you
             please
             .
             These
             Wenches
             ,
             who
             sometimes
             are
             not
             
             ugly
             ,
             observe
             an
             admirable
             Gravity
             in
             pronouncing
             their
             Responses
             ;
             but
             they
             are
             not
             so
             starch'd
             in
             private
             ,
             and
             may
             be
             easily
             prevail'd
             with
             to
             lay
             aside
             their
             affected
             Severity
             .
             One
             of
             my
             Friends
             ,
             who
             is
             a
             Germain
             Officer
             ,
             happen'd
             t'other
             Day
             to
             try
             the
             Experiment
             ;
             and
             since
             the
             Story
             is
             not
             unpleasant
             ,
             I
             shall
             make
             bold
             to
             entertain
             you
             with
             it
             .
             As
             we
             were
             taking
             our
             Diversion
             in
             the
             Fair
             ,
             we
             took
             particular
             Notice
             of
             one
             of
             those
             She-Astrologers
             ,
             who
             was
             one
             of
             the
             prettyest
             and
             gravest
             of
             the
             whole
             Tribe
             .
             She
             was
             surrounded
             with
             a
             Croud
             of
             People
             of
             all
             Ages
             and
             Ranks
             ,
             who
             approach'd
             one
             after
             another
             to
             the
             End
             of
             her
             Trunk
             to
             learn
             their
             Fate
             ,
             and
             to
             hear
             the
             Oraculous
             Sentences
             which
             she
             pronounc'd
             with
             an
             incredible
             Majesty
             and
             Authority
             .
             My
             Friend
             took
             his
             Turn
             among
             the
             rest
             ,
             and
             after
             she
             had
             acquainted
             him
             with
             his
             Fortune
             ,
             told
             her
             that
             he
             was
             desirous
             to
             consult
             her
             about
             some
             private
             Affair
             ,
             and
             therefore
             intreated
             her
             to
             turn
             the
             other
             End
             of
             the
             Trunk
             ,
             that
             he
             might
             communicate
             his
             Secret
             to
             her
             without
             disclosing
             it
             to
             the
             Company
             .
             But
             instead
             of
             proposing
             some
             Questions
             to
             her
             about
             his
             Fortune
             ,
             he
             told
             her
             thro'
             her
             Trunk
             ,
             that
             he
             came
             not
             to
             desire
             the
             Assistance
             of
             her
             pretended
             Art
             ,
             which
             serv'd
             only
             to
             amuse
             the
             Vulgar
             ;
             that
             't
             was
             in
             her
             Power
             to
             grant
             him
             a
             more
             solid
             Favour
             ;
             and
             that
             his
             Business
             was
             to
             enquire
             where
             and
             when
             he
             might
             spend
             a
             Night
             with
             her
             .
             Assoon
             as
             she
             had
             heard
             his
             Proposal
             ,
             she
             turn'd
             the
             Trunk
             and
             reply'd
             ,
             that
             he
             ought
             not
             to
             be
             surpriz'd
             at
             her
             way
             of
             Living
             ,
             by
             imposing
             upon
             the
             Credulity
             of
             the
             People
             ,
             since
             the
             only
             Occupation
             of
             the
             greatest
             part
             of
             Mankind
             consisted
             in
             cheating
             one
             another
             ,
             every
             one
             in
             his
             own
             Way
             ,
             and
             according
             to
             the
             Nature
             of
             his
             Employment
             ;
             and
             that
             for
             her
             part
             she
             thought
             
             five
             or
             six
             Crowns
             a
             day
             but
             a
             moderate
             Recompence
             for
             the
             Pains
             she
             took
             in
             deceiving
             those
             that
             were
             willing
             to
             be
             deceiv'd
             ;
             adding
             however
             that
             she
             was
             glad
             she
             had
             found
             a
             Man
             of
             Sense
             ,
             that
             knew
             the
             Infirmities
             of
             Humane
             Nature
             ,
             and
             wou'd
             laugh
             with
             her
             at
             the
             Follies
             of
             Mankind
             ,
             and
             concluded
             with
             giving
             him
             an
             Assignation
             at
             an
             Inn
             ,
             where
             she
             promis'd
             to
             meet
             him
             that
             Evening
             .
             Her
             agreeable
             Humour
             furnish'd
             us
             with
             Matter
             of
             Discourse
             for
             above
             an
             Hour
             ;
             but
             this
             was
             the
             End
             of
             the
             Adventure
             ,
             for
             the
             Officer
             did
             not
             think
             fit
             to
             drive
             the
             Jest
             further
             .
          
           
             Tho'
             the
             Summer
             is
             scarce
             begun
             ,
             the
             Heat
             is
             already
             so
             violent
             ,
             that
             every
             one
             endeavours
             to
             make
             it
             less
             insupportable
             by
             the
             Thinness
             and
             Lightness
             of
             his
             Clothes
             .
             Now
             I
             speak
             of
             Habits
             ,
             I
             wish
             you
             cou'd
             see
             that
             which
             is
             us'd
             by
             the
             Girls
             that
             visit
             the
             Fair
             every
             Day
             to
             look
             out
             for
             a
             Customer
             .
             For
             every
             Mother
             that
             is
             willing
             to
             be
             rid
             of
             her
             Daughter
             ,
             carries
             her
             thither
             every
             Day
             as
             to
             a
             Market
             ,
             with
             all
             the
             alluring
             Ornaments
             of
             an
             advantageous
             Dress
             .
             They
             have
             large
             and
             very
             fine
             Top-knots
             ;
             their
             Neck
             and
             Breasts
             are
             bare
             ;
             and
             their
             Habit
             consists
             chiefly
             of
             a
             little
             Cloak
             or
             Mantle
             of
             white
             Muslin
             ,
             adorn'd
             with
             red
             Ribbons
             ,
             a
             single
             Petticoat
             of
             the
             same
             Cloth
             ,
             a
             neat
             Pair
             of
             Shooes
             and
             Silk-Stockins
             ,
             exactly
             fitted
             to
             their
             Legs
             .
             There
             is
             nothing
             more
             proper
             to
             inspire
             Love
             than
             the
             sight
             of
             those
             young
             Creatures
             ,
             who
             for
             the
             most
             part
             are
             charming
             Beauties
             ;
             nor
             is
             a
             Man
             forc'd
             to
             purchase
             his
             Happiness
             at
             the
             Rate
             of
             a
             tedious
             Courtship
             ;
             for
             assoon
             as
             he
             feels
             Nature
             begin
             to
             work
             ,
             he
             may
             immediately
             address
             himself
             to
             the
             Mother
             ,
             who
             is
             always
             ready
             to
             make
             the
             Bargain
             .
             But
             tho'
             it
             will
             not
             cost
             you
             a
             Sigh
             to
             gain
             your
             Mistress's
             Heart
             ,
             you
             must
             pay
             dear
             for
             the
             Enjoymnent
             of
             her
             Person
             :
             for
             you
             cannot
             
             purchase
             a
             handsome
             Maiden-Girl
             under
             150
             Crowns
             in
             hand
             ,
             and
             as
             much
             every
             Year
             for
             Entertainment
             .
             For
             200
             you
             may
             have
             the
             Choice
             of
             the
             Market
             ,
             where
             you
             may
             find
             some
             that
             look
             like
             little
             Angels
             .
             Nor
             are
             you
             oblig'd
             to
             buy
             a
             Pig
             in
             a
             Poke
             ;
             for
             you
             may
             view
             and
             handle
             her
             as
             much
             as
             you
             will
             ,
             and
             examine
             your
             Commodity
             both
             with
             your
             Eyes
             and
             Hands
             before
             you
             agree
             upon
             the
             Price
             .
             As
             for
             the
             Maiden-head
             ,
             if
             the
             Mother
             promise
             to
             warrant
             it
             ,
             you
             may
             depend
             upon
             her
             word
             :
             for
             these
             Matrons
             are
             too
             conscientious
             to
             impose
             second-hand
             Goods
             upon
             a
             Customer
             ;
             and
             besides
             they
             dare
             not
             venture
             upon
             a
             Cheat
             which
             they
             believe
             may
             be
             so
             easily
             discover'd
             .
             For
             't
             is
             as
             impossible
             to
             root
             this
             Opinion
             out
             of
             the
             Minds
             of
             the
             Italians
             ,
             as
             of
             the
             Oriental
             Nations
             ;
             and
             whether
             it
             be
             true
             or
             false
             ,
             't
             is
             attended
             with
             this
             advantageous
             Consequence
             ,
             that
             it
             makes
             the
             young
             Women
             very
             careful
             of
             preserving
             their
             Treasure
             ,
             since
             they
             believe
             it
             impossible
             to
             conceal
             the
             Loss
             of
             it
             ;
             at
             least
             it
             has
             this
             Effect
             on
             those
             who
             intend
             to
             marry
             .
             But
             they
             who
             pretend
             only
             to
             be
             kept
             are
             not
             so
             nice
             ,
             for
             tho'
             they
             take
             care
             to
             preserve
             their
             Maiden-head
             ,
             they
             never
             scruple
             to
             allow
             a
             Man
             all
             the
             Liberties
             that
             can
             be
             us'd
             without
             deflowring
             '
             em
             .
             I
             know
             a
             Woman
             that
             has
             three
             Daughters
             ;
             the
             two
             Eldest
             are
             public
          
           
             Courtezans
             ,
             but
             the
             Third
             ,
             who
             is
             very
             pretty
             ,
             is
             still
             *
             
               una
               Putta
               ,
               una
               Vergine
            
             ,
             tho'
             she
             has
             lain
             perhaps
             with
             a
             Hundred
             Men.
             Yet
             she
             is
             really
             a
             Maid
             ,
             and
             wou'd
             not
             sell
             her
             Maiden-head
             a
             Farthing
             under
             Two
             hundred
             Crowns
             .
             I
             cannot
             leave
             this
             Subject
             without
             taking
             Notice
             of
             the
             extravagant
             Opinion
             of
             the
             Italians
             ,
             concerning
             one
             of
             the
             Properties
             of
             a
             Beautiful
             Woman
             .
             Instead
             of
             little
             ,
             hard
             ,
             and
             well-separated
             Breasts
             ,
             they
             love
             to
             have
             'em
             
             large
             and
             fleshy
             ;
             so
             that
             when
             they
             put
             their
             Hand
             into
             the
             Bosom
             of
             a
             Maid
             whom
             they
             intend
             to
             purchase
             ,
             if
             she
             be
             not
             so
             well
             provided
             as
             they
             commonly
             desire
             ,
             she
             is
             forc'd
             to
             make
             some
             pretty
             Excuse
             ,
             or
             to
             tell
             'em
             laughing
             ,
             That
             
               she
               has
               lent
               her
               Bubbies
               to
               her
               little
               Sister
               ,
               or
               has
               plaid
               'em
               away
               at
               Bassette
               .
            
             And
             even
             when
             a
             Frenchman
             meets
             with
             such
             Girls
             ,
             and
             tells
             'em
             that
             he
             is
             no
             Admirer
             of
             fleshy
             Breasts
             ,
             they
             usually
             answer
             ,
             
               Ay
               ,
               Sir
               ,
               you
               are
               pleas'd
               to
               say
               so
               ;
               but
               if
               they
               were
               larger
               you
               wou'd
               like
               'em
               better
               .
            
          
           
             You
             will
             be
             apt
             to
             look
             upon
             this
             Way
             of
             buying
             Girls
             as
             very
             odd
             and
             extravagant
             ;
             but
             I
             'm
             confident
             you
             will
             be
             no
             less
             surpriz'd
             at
             the
             Relation
             of
             an
             Adventure
             that
             happen'd
             to
             one
             of
             my
             Friends
             ,
             who
             is
             a
             French
             Officer
             lately
             return'd
             from
             the
             Venetian
             Army
             .
             I
             remember
             I
             promis'd
             you
             the
             Story
             ,
             and
             I
             'm
             resolv'd
             to
             keep
             my
             Word
             ,
             tho'
             I
             must
             run
             the
             Hazard
             of
             giving
             you
             an
             ill
             Opinion
             of
             my
             Friend's
             Chastity
             .
          
           
             During
             our
             Confinement
             in
             the
             Lazaretto
             ,
             we
             had
             no
             other
             Recreation
             ,
             but
             what
             we
             found
             in
             conversing
             with
             the
             Prior
             ,
             who
             is
             a
             very
             accomplish'd
             Person
             :
             You
             may
             easily
             divine
             the
             usual
             Subject
             of
             our
             Discourse
             .
             We
             hardly
             talk'd
             of
             any
             thing
             but
             the
             Venetian
             Ladies
             ,
             of
             whose
             Beauty
             and
             Gracefulness
             he
             gave
             us
             so
             lively
             a
             Description
             ,
             that
             his
             feeling
             Expressions
             made
             a
             very
             strong
             Impression
             on
             the
             Officer's
             Mind
             .
             Then
             he
             proceeded
             to
             tell
             us
             ,
             that
             we
             might
             easily
             satisfie
             our
             Inclinations
             to
             Love
             in
             this
             great
             City
             ,
             without
             exposing
             our selves
             to
             the
             Censures
             of
             a
             Critical
             and
             Ill-natur'd
             World.
             In
             short
             ,
             my
             Friend
             was
             so
             charm'd
             with
             his
             agreeable
             Conversation
             ,
             and
             so
             well
             pleas'd
             with
             the
             Hope
             he
             gave
             him
             ,
             that
             he
             cou'd
             not
             forbear
             protesting
             and
             repeating
             his
             Protestations
             more
             than
             once
             ,
             that
             he
             wou'd
             not
             leave
             the
             City
             
             without
             tasting
             the
             
               Dear
               Delight
            
             .
             His
             Guardian
             ,
             who
             never
             left
             him
             ,
             and
             had
             often
             heard
             us
             talk
             on
             that
             Subject
             ,
             concluded
             that
             he
             had
             met
             with
             a
             Man
             fit
             for
             his
             Purpose
             ,
             that
             is
             ,
             one
             who
             wou'd
             spare
             no
             Cost
             to
             indulge
             his
             Inclination
             to
             Pleasure
             .
             Resolving
             then
             to
             make
             the
             best
             Advantage
             of
             so
             promising
             an
             Opportunity
             ,
             he
             took
             occasion
             to
             talk
             with
             him
             in
             private
             two
             days
             before
             our
             Departure
             ,
             and
             told
             him
             with
             a
             great
             deal
             of
             Confidence
             ,
             that
             perceiving
             him
             to
             be
             a
             great
             Admirer
             of
             handsome
             Women
             ;
             and
             knowing
             that
             he
             wou'd
             probably
             meet
             with
             some
             in
             that
             great
             City
             whither
             he
             was
             going
             ,
             he
             thought
             himself
             oblig'd
             to
             admonish
             him
             of
             the
             dangerous
             consequences
             that
             frequently
             attended
             the
             Rashness
             of
             an
             unexperienc'd
             Adventurer
             upon
             an
             unknown
             Coast
             ;
             since
             those
             who
             seem
             to
             be
             very
             sound
             and
             beautiful
             ,
             are
             oftentimes
             mere
             lewd
             and
             rotten
             Strumpets
             .
             But
             ,
             added
             he
             ,
             if
             you
             will
             trust
             my
             Honesty
             ,
             and
             lodge
             at
             my
             House
             ,
             which
             is
             both
             very
             neat
             and
             civil
             ,
             I
             have
             an
             only
             Daughter
             ,
             who
             has
             as
             much
             Beauty
             as
             any
             Lady
             in
             Venice
             ;
             her
             I
             'll
             bestow
             upon
             you
             ,
             and
             warrant
             her
             as
             sound
             and
             clean
             as
             a
             Pearl
             ,
             as
             I
             hope
             in
             the
             most
             holy
             Madona
             .
             Then
             the
             Officer
             ask'd
             him
             whether
             she
             was
             a
             Maid
             ,
             and
             he
             very
             ingenuously
             acknowledg'd
             that
             she
             was
             not
             ,
             and
             that
             she
             was
             kept
             by
             a
             Venetian
             Nobleman
             ,
             who
             allow'd
             her
             a
             *
             hundred
             Sequins
             a
             Year
             :
             but
             ,
             continu'd
             he
             ,
             tho'
             she
             has
             hitherto
             observ'd
             an
             inviolable
             Fidelity
             to
             her
             Keeper
             ,
             I
             have
             so
             strong
             an
             Inclination
             to
             make
             you
             my
             Friend
             ,
             that
             I
             'm
             resolv'd
             to
             give
             her
             to
             you
             ,
             and
             I
             'm
             confident
             you
             'll
             be
             satisfy'd
             with
             her
             Person
             when
             you
             see
             her
             .
             My
             Friend
             considering
             that
             at
             Venice
             a
             Man
             that
             loves
             to
             keep
             himself
             clean
             and
             neat
             ,
             must
             not
             take
             a
             Lodging
             at
             a
             Public
             House
             of
             Entertainment
             ,
             and
             
             not
             knowing
             where
             to
             find
             a
             convenient
             Lodging
             ,
             accepted
             his
             Guardian
             's
             Offer
             ,
             and
             went
             to
             his
             House
             ,
             where
             he
             took
             a
             very
             neat
             Room
             ,
             and
             agreed
             both
             for
             Diet
             and
             Lodging
             at
             a
             very
             reasonable
             Rate
             .
             The
             next
             Morning
             his
             Landlord
             carry'd
             him
             to
             his
             Daughter
             ,
             who
             had
             a
             very
             magnificent
             Apartment
             ,
             consisting
             of
             three
             fine
             Chambers
             on
             a
             Floor
             ,
             adorn'd
             with
             large
             Looking-Glasses
             ,
             Cupboard
             and
             Scrutores
             of
             China
             ,
             with
             two
             Maids
             in
             a
             very
             handsome
             Garb
             to
             attend
             her
             .
             My
             Friend
             was
             doubtless
             extremely
             well
             satisfy'd
             with
             every
             thing
             he
             saw
             ,
             and
             especially
             with
             the
             lovely
             Donna
             ,
             who
             was
             one
             of
             the
             most
             charming
             Beauties
             in
             the
             World
             :
             But
             his
             Satisfaction
             lasted
             not
             long
             ,
             for
             when
             he
             came
             to
             talk
             of
             the
             Price
             ,
             she
             ask'd
             four
             times
             as
             much
             as
             he
             was
             able
             or
             willing
             to
             give
             her
             ;
             so
             that
             after
             two
             hours
             Wrangling
             ,
             he
             was
             forc'd
             to
             leave
             her
             without
             concluding
             the
             Bargain
             .
             Yet
             he
             continues
             still
             to
             lodge
             at
             her
             Father's
             House
             ,
             who
             professes
             as
             much
             Friendship
             to
             him
             as
             ever
             .
             He
             told
             me
             that
             he
             observ'd
             one
             Piece
             of
             Furniture
             in
             the
             Young
             Lady's
             Chamber
             that
             was
             very
             suitable
             to
             one
             of
             her
             Profession
             .
             'T
             was
             a
             very
             large
             Couch
             cover'd
             with
             a
             Quilt
             of
             black
             Sattin
             ,
             and
             directly
             over
             it
             there
             hung
             at
             the
             Cieling
             one
             of
             those
             Fans
             which
             I
             had
             occasion
             to
             mention
             in
             one
             of
             my
             former
             Letters
             .
             She
             confess'd
             that
             this
             was
             her
             Lover's
             Contrivance
             ,
             to
             qualifie
             the
             extreme
             Heat
             of
             the
             Weather
             ,
             which
             is
             never
             more
             insupportable
             than
             when
             one
             is
             already
             sufficiently
             heated
             with
             the
             eager
             Recreations
             of
             Love.
             And
             she
             assur'd
             him
             that
             the
             all
             Nobles
             have
             such
             Fans
             in
             their
             Houses
             .
          
           
             Of
             all
             the
             Customs
             that
             are
             peculiar
             to
             the
             Italians
             ,
             I
             know
             none
             that
             seems
             odder
             and
             more
             incommodious
             than
             that
             of
             lying
             stark-naked
             in
             their
             Beds
             ,
             which
             is
             generally
             observ'd
             by
             Men
             ,
             
             Women
             ,
             Boys
             ,
             and
             Girls
             ;
             and
             notwithstanding
             the
             Indecency
             of
             such
             a
             Custom
             ,
             the
             most
             bashful
             Virgin
             never
             scruples
             to
             strip
             her self
             to
             a
             state
             of
             pure
             Nature
             on
             her
             Wedding
             Night
             ,
             and
             to
             become
             an
             Eve
             to
             her
             new
             Adam
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             most
             Persons
             of
             Quality
             lie
             as
             we
             do
             ,
             tho'
             there
             are
             several
             even
             of
             that
             Rank
             ,
             who
             follow
             the
             common
             Fashion
             .
          
           
             The
             Curtezans
             enjoy
             here
             no
             less
             Liberty
             than
             at
             Rome
             ,
             and
             are
             divided
             into
             two
             distinct
             Orders
             .
             The
             first
             consists
             of
             such
             as
             are
             kept
             by
             particular
             Persons
             ,
             such
             as
             the
             Guardian
             's
             Daughter
             ;
             and
             these
             are
             so
             far
             from
             being
             imputed
             infamous
             or
             contemptible
             ,
             that
             they
             are
             envy'd
             by
             their
             Companions
             ,
             and
             are
             esteem'd
             (
             as
             they
             say
             themselves
             )
             if
             not
             
               Donne
               Honorate
            
             ,
             at
             least
             
               Donne
               de
               proposito
            
             .
             And
             besides
             ,
             they
             have
             this
             Advantage
             ,
             that
             they
             can
             easily
             find
             a
             Husband
             after
             they
             have
             gain'd
             Seven
             or
             Eight
             hundred
             Ducats
             ;
             for
             most
             Tradesmen
             are
             extremely
             fond
             of
             such
             considerable
             Fortunes
             .
             The
             other
             sort
             of
             Curtezans
             are
             such
             as
             prostitute
             themselves
             to
             all
             Comers
             ,
             and
             expose
             their
             Bodies
             indifferently
             to
             all
             sorts
             of
             Persons
             .
             And
             even
             these
             ,
             tho'
             they
             must
             for
             ever
             despair
             of
             retrieving
             their
             Honour
             by
             Matrimony
             ,
             disown
             the
             Name
             of
             Putane
             ,
             and
             call
             themselves
             
               Donne
               d'amore
            
             .
          
           
             But
             notwithstanding
             the
             extraordinary
             Kindness
             and
             Beauty
             of
             the
             Women
             ,
             the
             Venetians
             are
             generally
             so
             brutish
             ,
             that
             they
             wou'd
             rather
             chuse
             a
             Boy
             ,
             tho'
             as
             ugly
             as
             an
             Ape
             ,
             than
             the
             most
             Amiable
             Girl
             in
             the
             World.
             This
             is
             the
             predominant
             Vice
             of
             the
             Nation
             ,
             with
             which
             they
             are
             so
             miserably
             intoxicated
             ,
             that
             they
             spare
             no
             Pains
             or
             Cost
             to
             satisfie
             their
             beastly
             Passions
             :
             And
             even
             some
             of
             'em
             are
             such
             Prodigies
             of
             Infamy
             ,
             and
             have
             so
             entirely
             lost
             all
             sense
             of
             Humanity
             ,
             that
             they
             turn
             S●ccubus's
             to
             Porters
             and
             Gondoliers
             ,
             whom
             
             they
             hire
             to
             act
             that
             Filthiness
             upon
             their
             polluted
             Bodies
             .
             All
             their
             Conversations
             are
             larded
             with
             those
             detestable
             Impurities
             ;
             and
             as
             in
             France
             't
             is
             the
             usual
             Custom
             of
             young
             Persons
             to
             divert
             themselves
             with
             talking
             of
             their
             Intrigues
             with
             a
             lovely
             Mistress
             ,
             their
             Discourses
             in
             this
             Place
             run
             perpetually
             on
             their
             Masculine
             Amours
             .
             Nor
             are
             the
             Turks
             ,
             themselves
             more
             addicted
             to
             this
             unnatural
             Abomination
             than
             the
             Italians
             seem
             to
             be
             .
             The
             Monks
             ,
             especially
             ,
             are
             infamous
             for
             Sodomy
             as
             well
             as
             Whoredom
             ;
             and
             perhaps
             not
             without
             reason
             ,
             for
             tho'
             I
             am
             not
             so
             particularly
             acquainted
             with
             their
             manner
             of
             Living
             ,
             as
             to
             give
             you
             an
             exact
             Account
             of
             their
             Customs
             and
             Practice
             ,
             I
             can
             assure
             you
             (
             and
             one
             sight
             of
             their
             Convents
             wou'd
             convince
             you
             )
             that
             they
             assume
             a
             great
             deal
             more
             Liberty
             than
             their
             Brethren
             in
             France
             .
             About
             some
             Weeks
             ago
             I
             visited
             the
             Convent
             of
             S.
             
               Joanni
               Paolo
            
             ,
             to
             see
             the
             fine
             Pictures
             with
             which
             't
             is
             adorn'd
             ,
             especially
             that
             of
             S.
             
               Peter
               Martyr
            
             ,
             by
             Titian
             ,
             which
             is
             esteem'd
             one
             of
             the
             most
             finish'd
             Pieces
             in
             the
             World
             ;
             and
             that
             of
             the
             
               Last
               Supper
            
             ,
             at
             the
             bottom
             of
             the
             Refectory
             .
             After
             I
             had
             satisfy'd
             my
             Curiosity
             with
             a
             View
             of
             these
             admirable
             Pictures
             ,
             they
             show'd
             me
             the
             Apartment
             of
             one
             of
             the
             Fathers
             ,
             which
             certainly
             merits
             the
             particular
             Observation
             of
             every
             curious
             Traveller
             ;
             for
             I
             must
             confess
             I
             shou'd
             have
             rather
             fansy'd
             it
             to
             be
             the
             Residence
             of
             a
             Cardinal
             than
             the
             Habitation
             of
             a
             solitary
             Friar
             .
             It
             consists
             of
             three
             small
             Pavilions
             ,
             rank'd
             in
             a
             streight
             Line
             ,
             each
             of
             which
             contains
             two
             Chambers
             and
             a
             Hall.
             They
             are
             separated
             by
             two
             Gardens
             ,
             planted
             with
             Orange-Trees
             ,
             and
             divided
             into
             several
             Borders
             or
             Beds
             of
             Flowers
             ,
             adorn'd
             with
             Busts
             and
             Statues
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             there
             is
             no
             Water
             ;
             but
             that
             defect
             is
             supply'd
             by
             a
             very
             fine
             Perspective
             ,
             representing
             a
             Fountain
             at
             the
             end
             of
             a
             long
             Walk
             ,
             border'd
             
             with
             Trees
             .
             And
             this
             artificial
             Fountain
             is
             discover'd
             from
             the
             first
             Pavilion
             thro'
             the
             second
             ,
             which
             is
             pierc'd
             and
             left
             open
             for
             that
             Purpose
             .
             The
             Beauty
             of
             the
             Chambers
             is
             sutable
             to
             that
             of
             the
             Garden
             ;
             and
             to
             conclude
             ,
             there
             are
             few
             Places
             in
             the
             World
             less
             fit
             to
             inspire
             a
             Man
             with
             Thoughts
             of
             Mortification
             and
             Repentance
             .
          
           
             I
             must
             not
             finish
             my
             Letter
             without
             giving
             you
             some
             Account
             of
             the
             Opera's
             and
             Comedies
             ,
             which
             may
             be
             reckon'd
             one
             of
             the
             principal
             Diversions
             of
             the
             Carnaval
             .
             All
             the
             Beauty
             of
             the
             Opera's
             consists
             in
             
               Vocal
               Music
            
             and
             Machines
             ;
             for
             there
             is
             nothing
             in
             the
             
               Habits
               ,
               Dancing
            
             ,
             and
             even
             in
             the
             Plays
             themselves
             ,
             that
             merits
             a
             particular
             Description
             .
             And
             ,
             generally
             speaking
             ,
             they
             are
             much
             Inferior
             to
             those
             that
             are
             represented
             at
             Paris
             ;
             for
             tho'
             the
             French
             must
             acknowledge
             themselves
             indebted
             to
             the
             Venetians
             for
             their
             Opera's
             ,
             't
             is
             certain
             that
             in
             this
             ,
             as
             well
             as
             in
             several
             other
             Cases
             ,
             they
             have
             surpass'd
             their
             Masters
             .
             The
             Venetian
             Music
             does
             not
             please
             all
             sorts
             of
             Ears
             ;
             some
             dislike
             the
             Affectation
             of
             their
             excessive
             Quavering
             ,
             which
             made
             one
             say
             ,
             That
             they
             seem'd
             to
             contend
             with
             Nightingales
             ,
             who
             shou'd
             be
             most
             admir'd
             for
             the
             Volubility
             of
             their
             Throats
             .
             But
             I
             must
             confess
             I
             'm
             of
             another
             Opinion
             ,
             and
             I
             'm
             so
             charm'd
             by
             the
             melodious
             Accents
             of
             a
             fine
             Italian
             Voice
             ,
             that
             I
             can
             hardly
             forbear
             crying
             out
             with
             the
             
               Venetians
               ,
               I
               'm
               lost
               ,
               I
               faint
               ,
               I
               die
               .
            
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             those
             agreeable
             Transports
             I
             usually
             feel
             on
             such
             Occasions
             ,
             are
             purely
             occasion'd
             by
             the
             Music
             ,
             and
             by
             the
             Beauty
             of
             the
             Voice
             ,
             without
             any
             regard
             to
             the
             Words
             ,
             which
             are
             so
             far
             from
             contributing
             to
             the
             Delight
             of
             the
             Hearer
             ,
             that
             he
             ought
             not
             to
             give
             the
             least
             attention
             to
             'em
             ;
             since
             the
             Italian
             way
             of
             singing
             is
             extremely
             unsuitable
             to
             tragical
             Subjects
             :
             For
             what
             Impression
             wou'd
             it
             make
             upon
             your
             Mind
             
             to
             hear
             an
             
               Orlando
               Furioso
            
             ,
             or
             a
             despairing
             Atis
             ,
             warble
             out
             the
             terrible
             Passions
             with
             which
             they
             are
             agitated
             ,
             in
             a
             perpetual
             Quavering
             for
             a
             Quarter
             of
             an
             Hour
             together
             ?
             Wou'd
             you
             not
             imagine
             that
             those
             Actors
             design'd
             to
             ridicule
             the
             passionate
             Lovers
             whom
             they
             pretend
             to
             represent
             ?
             This
             puts
             me
             in
             mind
             of
             the
             Air
             with
             which
             Harlequin
             us'd
             to
             sing
             on
             the
             Theatre
             of
             
               Burgundy
               ,
               Ha!
               tu
               vas
               trahir
               malheureuse
               ,
            
             &c.
             
             This
             ,
             Sir
             ,
             is
             the
             main
             Advantage
             that
             recommends
             the
             French
             Way
             of
             Singing
             beyond
             the
             Italian
             ;
             for
             the
             Music
             is
             made
             purposely
             for
             the
             Words
             ,
             and
             so
             admirably
             well
             fitted
             to
             'em
             in
             every
             respect
             ,
             that
             the
             Singing
             is
             more
             expressive
             ,
             and
             infinitely
             more
             touching
             than
             the
             Words
             ,
             especially
             when
             there
             is
             Occasion
             to
             represent
             a
             Person
             transported
             with
             Sorrow
             ,
             Despair
             ,
             or
             Fury
             .
             But
             abstracting
             from
             this
             Consideration
             ,
             I
             'm
             still
             of
             the
             Opinion
             ,
             that
             the
             Italian
             Music
             ,
             singly
             consider'd
             ,
             is
             finer
             than
             ours
             ,
             and
             that
             its
             Charms
             are
             extremely
             improv'd
             by
             a
             sweet
             and
             tuneful
             Voice
             ,
             which
             is
             no
             Rarity
             in
             this
             Place
             .
          
           
             There
             are
             also
             many
             different
             Opinions
             concerning
             the
             
               Venetian
               Comedies
            
             ;
             for
             I
             have
             heard
             several
             Men
             of
             Sense
             not
             only
             despise
             'em
             as
             Trifles
             ,
             but
             absolutely
             condemn
             'em
             ,
             as
             only
             fit
             to
             amuse
             the
             Eyes
             and
             Ears
             of
             Footmen
             and
             Porters
             .
             Others
             ,
             on
             the
             contrary
             ,
             are
             so
             much
             in
             love
             with
             this
             Diversion
             ,
             that
             they
             wou'd
             rather
             chuse
             to
             deprive
             themselves
             of
             Meat
             and
             Drink
             ,
             than
             to
             lose
             their
             Share
             in
             so
             agreeable
             a
             Pleasure
             .
             For
             my
             part
             ,
             I
             think
             these
             Opinions
             are
             equally
             guilty
             of
             an
             Excess
             ,
             and
             I
             see
             no
             reason
             that
             shou'd
             oblige
             us
             to
             run
             to
             either
             of
             these
             opposite
             Extremities
             .
             If
             every
             thing
             that
             is
             not
             properly
             instructive
             ,
             and
             does
             not
             directly
             tend
             to
             the
             Advancement
             of
             Vertue
             must
             be
             
             absolutely
             rejected
             ;
             I
             confess
             indeed
             ,
             that
             the
             
               Italian
               Comedies
            
             ought
             to
             be
             banish'd
             out
             of
             the
             Republick
             ;
             but
             by
             the
             same
             Principle
             
               Masks
               ,
               Balls
               ,
               Turnaments
            
             ,
             and
             all
             sorts
             of
             Games
             must
             be
             condemn'd
             ,
             and
             the
             most
             innocent
             Pleasures
             must
             be
             reputed
             criminal
             .
             But
             since
             my
             Conscience
             is
             not
             so
             nice
             ,
             I
             must
             own
             my self
             so
             much
             a
             Friend
             to
             the
             
               Venetian
               Comedies
            
             ,
             that
             I
             can
             easily
             bear
             with
             all
             their
             Defects
             .
             'T
             is
             true
             ,
             they
             can
             neither
             make
             us
             wiser
             nor
             better
             ;
             but
             that
             Fault
             ,
             if
             it
             be
             one
             ,
             is
             sufficiently
             atton'd
             for
             by
             the
             Pleasure
             they
             give
             us
             .
             And
             I
             have
             often
             observ'd
             ,
             that
             those
             morose
             Criticks
             who
             talk
             of
             nothing
             but
             Edification
             ,
             are
             the
             first
             who
             burst
             forth
             into
             Laughter
             ,
             and
             express
             their
             Satisfaction
             by
             clapping
             their
             Hands
             .
             Yet
             there
             are
             certain
             Indecencies
             which
             I
             cou'd
             wish
             the
             Italian
             Poets
             wou'd
             avoid
             ;
             and
             it
             were
             to
             be
             desir'd
             ,
             that
             they
             had
             more
             Regard
             to
             the
             Respect
             that
             is
             due
             to
             the
             Modesty
             of
             Ladies
             ,
             and
             to
             the
             Rules
             of
             Civility
             that
             ought
             to
             be
             observ'd
             between
             Man
             and
             Man.
             But
             after
             all
             ,
             I
             have
             a
             much
             better
             Opinion
             of
             the
             French
             than
             of
             the
             Italian
             Theatre
             :
             For
             I
             had
             rather
             learn
             to
             know
             my self
             in
             the
             Characters
             of
             Moliere
             ,
             than
             to
             be
             an
             useless
             Spectator
             of
             the
             Postures
             of
             Harlequin
             ,
             or
             of
             the
             Dreams
             of
             Dr.
             Balouarde
             ;
             tho'
             if
             I
             had
             a
             convenient
             Opportunity
             ,
             and
             knew
             not
             how
             to
             employ
             my
             Time
             better
             ,
             I
             shou'd
             never
             scruple
             to
             laugh
             an
             Hour
             or
             two
             at
             their
             diverting
             Fooleries
             .
          
           
             I
             had
             almost
             forgotten
             to
             acquaint
             you
             with
             a
             pleasant
             Custom
             which
             is
             usually
             observ'd
             in
             this
             Place
             at
             the
             hearing
             of
             Opera's
             .
             The
             Female
             Musicians
             are
             always
             applauded
             at
             the
             End
             of
             their
             Songs
             ;
             but
             the
             Hearers
             make
             use
             of
             different
             ways
             to
             express
             their
             Satisfaction
             .
             If
             they
             only
             say
             
               Cara
               ,
               Cara
            
             ,
             't
             is
             a
             sign
             they
             are
             but
             indifferently
             
             pleas'd
             ;
             but
             when
             they
             are
             touch'd
             to
             the
             quick
             ,
             they
             fill
             the
             whole
             Theatre
             with
             repeated
             Acclamations
             ,
             crying
             as
             loud
             as
             they
             can
             ,
             
               Mi
               Moro
               ,
               Mi
               Buto
            
             ;
             and
             not
             unfrequently
             make
             use
             of
             such
             immodest
             and
             obscene
             Expressions
             ,
             that
             I
             dare
             not
             so
             much
             as
             repeat
             '
             em
             .
          
           
             In
             Obedience
             to
             your
             Desire
             ,
             I
             have
             made
             it
             my
             Bus'ness
             to
             enquire
             into
             the
             Birth
             and
             Original
             of
             the
             late
             Pope
             Alexander
             VIII
             .
             You
             are
             misinform'd
             by
             those
             who
             assure
             you
             that
             he
             was
             descended
             from
             a
             Noble
             Family
             :
             For
             
               John
               Ottoboni
            
             ,
             his
             Great-Grand-Father
             ,
             was
             a
             Merchant
             ,
             and
             was
             not
             much
             taken
             Notice
             of
             at
             first
             ,
             tho'
             he
             afterwards
             gain'd
             a
             considerable
             Estate
             ,
             which
             recommended
             both
             him
             and
             his
             Children
             to
             the
             Consideration
             of
             the
             Publick
             .
             His
             Eldest
             Son
             ,
             
               John
               Francis
            
             ,
             was
             advanc'd
             to
             the
             Dignity
             of
             
               Great
               Chancellor
            
             ,
             the
             highest
             Office
             to
             which
             a
             Citizen
             can
             pretend
             ;
             for
             those
             who
             are
             rais'd
             to
             that
             Post
             are
             honour'd
             with
             the
             Title
             of
             Excellency
             ,
             and
             wear
             a
             
               Red
               Gown
            
             .
             His
             Son
             Leonard
             ,
             who
             had
             already
             serv'd
             the
             Republic
             as
             Secretary
             to
             the
             Spanish
             Embassy
             ,
             and
             afterwards
             as
             Agent
             in
             that
             Country
             ,
             was
             advanc'd
             to
             the
             same
             Office
             in
             the
             Year
             1639.
             and
             continu'd
             in
             that
             Post
             till
             his
             Death
             .
             He
             left
             two
             Sons
             ,
             Francis
             ,
             and
             Peter
             who
             was
             afterwards
             made
             Pope
             :
             Francis
             marry'd
             ,
             and
             left
             a
             Son
             call'd
             Anthony
             ,
             who
             is
             still
             alive
             ;
             but
             Peter
             ,
             who
             had
             not
             yet
             taken
             a
             Wife
             ,
             endeavour'd
             to
             procure
             a
             certain
             Office
             ,
             which
             ,
             notwithstanding
             all
             his
             earnest
             Solicitations
             ,
             was
             bestow'd
             on
             another
             Citizen
             ,
             whose
             Family
             had
             never
             been
             intrusted
             with
             the
             Management
             of
             any
             Public
             Affairs
             :
             And
             he
             was
             so
             nettl'd
             at
             such
             an
             unexpected
             Disappointment
             ,
             that
             for
             mere
             Vexation
             he
             resolv'd
             to
             embrace
             an
             Ecclesiastical
             Life
             .
             Two
             or
             Three
             Years
             after
             ,
             the
             Bishop
             
             of
             Padua
             gave
             him
             a
             Place
             in
             his
             Chapter
             ,
             where
             he
             continu'd
             for
             some
             time
             ;
             but
             being
             naturally
             of
             an
             impatient
             and
             ambitious
             Temper
             ,
             he
             soon
             grew
             weary
             of
             that
             Post
             :
             And
             I
             'm
             inform'd
             that
             he
             us'd
             frequently
             to
             tell
             his
             Friends
             that
             something
             whisper'd
             perpetually
             in
             his
             Ears
             ,
             and
             bid
             him
             go
             to
             Rome
             .
             These
             Suggestions
             flatter'd
             his
             Ambition
             ,
             and
             made
             him
             so
             uneasie
             at
             Padua
             ,
             that
             he
             left
             his
             Place
             ,
             and
             went
             to
             that
             Great
             Ecclesiastical
             Court
             ,
             where
             by
             his
             Intrigues
             ,
             Complaisance
             ,
             and
             Dissimulation
             ,
             of
             which
             he
             was
             an
             Absolute
             Master
             ,
             he
             acquir'd
             several
             powerful
             Patrons
             ,
             and
             insinuated
             himself
             so
             dexterously
             into
             the
             Favour
             of
             the
             rest
             ,
             that
             in
             1652
             ,
             he
             obtain'd
             a
             Cardinal's
             Cap
             of
             Pope
             Innocent
             X.
             and
             was
             afterwards
             made
             Bishop
             of
             Brescia
             in
             the
             State
             of
             Venice
             .
             But
             his
             Ambition
             was
             not
             satisfy'd
             by
             so
             considerable
             a
             Preferment
             ;
             for
             he
             still
             continu'd
             to
             manage
             his
             Game
             with
             so
             much
             Dexterity
             and
             Success
             ,
             that
             at
             last
             he
             was
             advanc'd
             to
             the
             Papal
             Throne
             by
             the
             French
             Faction
             ,
             and
             by
             the
             Interest
             and
             Solicitation
             of
             Cardinal
             
               de
               Bouillon
            
             ,
             who
             to
             regain
             his
             Master's
             Favour
             ,
             left
             no
             Means
             unessay'd
             to
             raise
             this
             Prelate
             to
             the
             Apostolic
             See.
             'T
             was
             on
             the
             6
             th
             of
             October
             ,
             1689
             ,
             that
             the
             Supreme
             Dignity
             was
             conferr'd
             upon
             him
             ;
             and
             his
             Advancement
             occasion'd
             a
             general
             Satisfaction
             .
             Rome
             thought
             she
             had
             now
             a
             Bishop
             ,
             who
             wou'd
             aim
             at
             nothing
             so
             much
             as
             the
             Exaltation
             of
             the
             Church
             and
             the
             Holy
             See
             :
             France
             concluded
             that
             she
             had
             at
             last
             obtain'd
             a
             Pope
             who
             was
             absolutely
             devoted
             to
             her
             Interest
             :
             The
             Empire
             and
             Spain
             hop'd
             that
             he
             wou'd
             promote
             the
             Public
             Good
             of
             Christendom
             :
             And
             Venice
             was
             over-joy'd
             to
             see
             one
             of
             her
             Citizens
             in
             a
             Condition
             to
             raise
             the
             Glory
             of
             his
             Country
             .
             In
             the
             last
             of
             these
             Places
             ,
             especially
             ,
             all
             possible
             Care
             was
             taken
             to
             express
             
             the
             publick
             Satisfaction
             with
             all
             the
             Marks
             of
             Splendor
             and
             Magnificence
             :
             Anthony
             the
             Pope's
             Nephew
             was
             honour'd
             with
             the
             Title
             of
             a
             Nobleman
             ,
             and
             at
             the
             same
             time
             was
             made
             
               Knight
               of
               the
               Golden
               Star
            
             ,
             and
             Procurator
             of
             S.
             
               Mark
               by
               Merit
            
             .
             He
             sent
             his
             two
             Sons
             Peter
             and
             Mark
             to
             Rome
             ,
             where
             the
             latter
             was
             immediately
             preferr'd
             to
             an
             advantageous
             Match
             ;
             and
             the
             former
             was
             made
             
               Cardinal
               Patron
            
             .
             Dignities
             and
             Riches
             were
             heap'd
             without
             measure
             upon
             all
             the
             rest
             of
             the
             Pope's
             Relations
             ,
             who
             seem'd
             ,
             like
             so
             many
             Mushrooms
             ,
             to
             spring
             up
             in
             a
             Night
             .
             Their
             sudden
             Advancement
             gave
             Pasquin
             occasion
             to
             say
             ,
             That
             
               his
               Holiness
               had
               signaliz'd
               his
               Accession
               to
               the
               Pontifical
               Throne
               by
               a
               Miracle
               :
            
             And
             Marforio
             demanding
             what
             it
             was
             ,
             he
             reply'd
             ,
             That
             
               the
               Pope
               had
               restor'd
               to
               Life
               one
               that
               was
               Dead
            
             ;
             meaning
             the
             Nepotism
             ,
             which
             seem'd
             to
             have
             been
             utterly
             extinguish'd
             by
             Innocent
             XI
             .
             And
             indeed
             never
             Pope
             made
             so
             good
             Use
             of
             his
             Time
             as
             this
             Alexander
             :
             But
             since
             I
             have
             already
             given
             you
             an
             Account
             of
             his
             Character
             and
             Actions
             ,
             I
             shall
             only
             add
             ,
             that
             he
             went
             out
             of
             this
             World
             loaded
             with
             Curses
             ,
             that
             his
             Memory
             is
             odious
             to
             all
             Mankind
             ,
             and
             that
             never
             any
             Man's
             Death
             was
             less
             lamented
             than
             his
             .
             Rome
             detests
             him
             by
             reason
             of
             his
             Luxury
             ,
             and
             because
             he
             establish'd
             the
             Nepotism
             :
             The
             Empire
             and
             Spain
             hate
             him
             as
             one
             that
             was
             their
             declar'd
             Enemy
             :
             France
             is
             incens'd
             against
             him
             because
             of
             the
             terrible
             Blow
             he
             gave
             her
             towards
             the
             end
             of
             his
             Pontificate
             :
             And
             Venice
             abhors
             the
             Memory
             of
             a
             Citizen
             ,
             who
             instead
             of
             proving
             a
             Benefactor
             to
             his
             Country
             ,
             seem'd
             on
             all
             Occasions
             to
             be
             its
             mortal
             Enemy
             .
             At
             Rome
             they
             began
             to
             express
             their
             Hatred
             before
             he
             expir'd
             ;
             for
             in
             the
             Night
             in
             which
             he
             dy'd
             there
             was
             a
             Paper
             affix'd
             to
             the
             Gate
             of
             the
             Vatican
             ,
             in
             
             which
             he
             was
             represented
             in
             the
             Posture
             of
             〈◊〉
             that
             is
             going
             to
             take
             Horse
             ,
             with
             these
             Words
             written
             underneath
             ,
             
               If
               any
               Man
               wou'd
               send
               a
               Letter
               to
               the
               Devil
               ,
               here
               is
               a
               Post
               just
               ready
               to
               depart
               .
            
          
           
             After
             his
             Death
             ,
             Prince
             Anthony
             his
             Nephew
             ,
             endeavouring
             by
             his
             Intrigues
             to
             exclude
             Cardinal
             Barberino
             ,
             and
             to
             promote
             the
             Faction
             of
             the
             Pignatelli
             ,
             the
             Venetians
             depriv'd
             him
             of
             the
             Procuratorship
             ,
             and
             at
             the
             same
             time
             remov'd
             him
             from
             the
             Management
             of
             Publick
             Affairs
             ,
             and
             even
             prohibited
             him
             to
             appear
             in
             the
             Council
             ;
             so
             that
             at
             present
             instead
             of
             a
             Procurator's
             Vest
             ,
             he
             wears
             only
             a
             Citizen's
             short
             Cloak
             .
             Yet
             he
             was
             not
             degraded
             ,
             but
             only
             suspended
             from
             the
             Exercise
             of
             his
             Offices
             .
          
           
             I
             must
             not
             leave
             Venice
             without
             acquainting
             you
             with
             the
             ridiculous
             Opinion
             the
             Italians
             have
             of
             the
             French
             Customs
             :
             They
             imagine
             that
             a
             Man
             may
             Kiss
             and
             Handle
             a
             Young
             Woman
             as
             roughly
             and
             indecently
             as
             he
             pleases
             before
             her
             Father
             and
             Mother
             ,
             and
             that
             one
             may
             take
             the
             same
             Liberty
             with
             a
             Wife
             in
             the
             Presence
             of
             her
             Husband
             ;
             and
             from
             thence
             they
             infer
             ,
             that
             they
             are
             guilty
             of
             more
             Criminal
             Familiarities
             in
             private
             .
             You
             see
             what
             an
             injurious
             Opinion
             they
             have
             of
             our
             Nation
             ,
             and
             especially
             of
             the
             Chastity
             of
             our
             Ladies
             ;
             and
             yet
             this
             extravagant
             Conceit
             is
             only
             grounded
             on
             the
             Civility
             of
             our
             Countrymen
             ,
             who
             permit
             a
             Friend
             or
             Relation
             to
             Salute
             a
             Woman
             with
             a
             Kiss
             after
             a
             long
             Absence
             ;
             and
             are
             not
             so
             horn-mad
             as
             to
             enter
             an
             Action
             against
             a
             Man
             for
             every
             Kiss
             he
             steals
             from
             a
             Woman
             .
          
           
             Thus
             we
             see
             how
             fatally
             Men
             are
             deluded
             by
             that
             unconquerable
             Inclination
             they
             have
             to
             magnifie
             
             every
             thing
             .
             As
             soon
             as
             they
             hear
             of
             any
             thing
             that
             is
             unusual
             ,
             they
             instantly
             fansie
             it
             to
             be
             a
             Prodigy
             ,
             and
             conclude
             that
             't
             is
             either
             against
             the
             ordinary
             Course
             of
             Nature
             ,
             or
             contrary
             to
             common
             Sense
             .
             I
             have
             had
             occasion
             to
             discourse
             with
             several
             Persons
             that
             are
             no
             Italians
             ,
             who
             assure
             me
             that
             in
             England
             a
             Man
             may
             freely
             Kiss
             the
             first
             handsome
             Woman
             he
             meets
             in
             the
             Street
             ,
             and
             even
             that
             all
             Women
             ,
             not
             excepting
             the
             chief
             Ladies
             of
             the
             Court
             ,
             are
             oblig'd
             to
             allow
             such
             Liberties
             .
             But
             tho'
             I
             never
             was
             in
             that
             Country
             ,
             I
             'm
             so
             far
             from
             believing
             the
             Story
             ,
             that
             I
             'm
             confident
             ,
             and
             dare
             venture
             to
             affirm
             ,
             that
             't
             is
             absolutely
             false
             .
          
           
             I
             shall
             conclude
             my
             Letter
             with
             telling
             you
             that
             I
             have
             seen
             Padua
             ,
             which
             is
             a
             very
             large
             Town
             ,
             but
             so
             dispeopl'd
             ,
             that
             one
             half
             of
             the
             Houses
             are
             not
             inhabited
             ;
             and
             that
             I
             have
             bought
             a
             Horse
             to
             carry
             me
             to
             Holland
             ;
             for
             I
             cou'd
             not
             endure
             to
             be
             so
             long
             shut
             up
             in
             a
             Coach.
             I
             have
             already
             sent
             my
             Horse
             to
             Mestre
             ,
             a
             little
             Harbour
             about
             five
             Miles
             from
             this
             City
             ,
             in
             the
             Road
             to
             Ausburg
             ,
             and
             am
             putting
             all
             things
             in
             a
             readiness
             for
             my
             Departure
             .
             And
             therefore
             to
             finish
             the
             Description
             of
             Venice
             ,
             which
             some
             call
             the
             Rich
             ,
             others
             the
             Fair
             ,
             and
             I
             the
             Licentious
             ,
             I
             shall
             only
             tell
             you
             ,
             that
             I
             'm
             extremely
             pleas'd
             with
             three
             things
             in
             it
             ,
             which
             I
             despair
             of
             finding
             in
             any
             other
             Place
             :
             First
             ,
             the
             
               Festival
               Solemnities
            
             ,
             which
             are
             always
             accompany'd
             with
             Shows
             :
             Secondly
             ,
             the
             obliging
             Sweetness
             and
             Beauty
             of
             the
             Women
             :
             And
             in
             the
             last
             Place
             ,
             the
             Neatness
             of
             the
             Houses
             within
             .
             I
             have
             often
             heard
             Holland
             commended
             for
             the
             extraordinary
             Neatness
             of
             its
             Houses
             ,
             but
             I
             'm
             persuaded
             that
             even
             in
             this
             respect
             it
             does
             not
             exceed
             Venice
             :
             For
             the
             very
             Floors
             are
             cover'd
             with
             a
             
             certain
             red
             Cen●●t
             ,
             as
             ●ard
             as
             a
             〈◊〉
             ,
             and
             as
             smooth
             and
             clear
             as
             a
             Looking-Glass
             :
             And
             all
             the
             Furniture
             of
             the
             House
             is
             kept
             in
             the
             best
             Order
             ,
             and
             with
             the
             same
             Care
             and
             Exactness
             .
             Every
             Cobler
             in
             the
             City
             takes
             care
             to
             furnish
             his
             Apartment
             with
             Hangings
             of
             gilt
             Leather
             ,
             a
             large
             Looking-Glass
             ,
             and
             some
             pretty
             Pictures
             ;
             and
             the
             Magnificence
             of
             the
             Houses
             is
             always
             sutable
             to
             the
             Riches
             of
             the
             Inhabitants
             .
          
           
             I
             am
             ,
             
               SIR
               ,
            
             
               Your
               &c.
               
            
             
               Venice
               ,
               
                 May
                 1692.
                 
              
            
          
           
        
         
           The
           END
           .
        
      
    
     
       
         Notes, typically marginal, from the original text
         
           Notes for div A36827-e6030
           
             *
             John
             20.
             17.
             
          
           
             †
             This
             is
             a
             direct
             Contradiction
             to
             the
             last
             Chapter
             of
             S.
             Matthew's
             Gospel
             ,
             where
             't
             is
             said
             of
             the
             two
             Maries
             ,
             that
             as
             they
             were
             going
             from
             the
             Sepulchre
             ,
             Jesus
             met
             'em
             ,
             and
             that
             they
             came
             and
             
               held
               him
               by
               the
               Feet
            
             ,
             and
             worshipped
             him
             .
          
           
             *
             One
             Shilling
             .
          
           
             *
             Somewhat
             more
             than
             20
             Quarters
             .
          
           
             *
             I
             'm
             a
             
             French-man
             .
          
           
             †
             We
             are
             Brothers
             .
          
           
             *
             Advance
             .
          
           
             *
             A
             Maid
             .
          
           
             *
             200
             Crowns
             .