Some letters, containing an account of what seemed most remarkable in Switzerland, Italy, some parts of Germany, &c. in the years 1685 and 1686 written by G. Burnet, D.D. to the Hoble. R.B. ; to which is added, An appendix, containing some remarks on Switzerland and Italy, writ by a person of quality, and communicated to the author ; together with a table of the contents of each letter.
         Burnet, Gilbert, 1643-1715.
      
       
         
           1688
        
      
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             Some letters, containing an account of what seemed most remarkable in Switzerland, Italy, some parts of Germany, &c. in the years 1685 and 1686 written by G. Burnet, D.D. to the Hoble. R.B. ; to which is added, An appendix, containing some remarks on Switzerland and Italy, writ by a person of quality, and communicated to the author ; together with a table of the contents of each letter.
             Burnet, Gilbert, 1643-1715.
          
           [26], 232 p.
           
             Printed for the Widow Swart, Bookseller in the Beurs Stege,
             Amsterdam :
             1688.
          
           
             R.B. is Robert Boyle.
             Later editions have title: Travels through France, Italy, Germany and Switzerland.
             Reproduction of original in Huntington Library.
          
        
      
    
     
       
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         eng
      
       
         
           Switzerland -- Description and travel.
           Italy -- Description and travel.
           Europe -- Description and travel.
           Europe -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800.
        
      
    
     
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           SOME
           LETTERS
           ,
           Containing
           An
           Account
           of
           what
           seemed
           most
           Remarkable
           
             in
             Travelling
          
           through
           SWITZERLAND
           ,
           ITALY
           ,
           Some
           parts
           of
           GERMANY
           ,
           &c.
           
           In
           the
           Years
           1685.
           and
           1686.
           
        
         
           Written
           by
           
             G.
             Burnet
             ,
             D.
             D.
          
           to
           the
           honble
           
             R.
             B.
          
           
        
         
           The
           Third
           Edition
           ,
           Corrected
           ,
           and
           Altered
           in
           some
           places
           by
           the
           Author
           .
        
         
           To
           which
           is
           added
           ,
           an
           Appendix
           ,
           containing
           some
           Remarks
           on
           Switzerland
           and
           Italy
           ,
           writ
           by
           a
           Person
           of
           Quality
           ,
           and
           communicated
           to
           the
           Author
           .
        
         
           Together
           with
           
             a
             Table
          
           of
           the
           Contents
           of
           each
           Letter
           .
        
         
           AMSTERDAM
           Printed
           for
           the
           
             Widow
             Swart
          
           ,
           Bookseller
           in
           the
           Beurs
           Stege
           ,
           1688.
           
        
      
       
         
         
         
           A
           TABLE
           Of
           the
           Contents
           of
           all
           the
           LETTERS
           .
        
         
           
             The
             First
             LETTER
             .
             From
             Zurich
             .
          
           
             THE
             Desolation
             that
             is
             to
             be
             seen
             all
             the
             way
             from
             Paris
             to
             Lions
             ,
             occasion'd
             by
             the
             oppression
             ,
             which
             the
             People
             lye
             under
             ,
             p.
             1
             ,
             2.
             
             A
             short
             Account
             of
             some
             of
             the
             Rarities
             ,
             and
             Inscriptions●t
             ●t
             Lions
             .
             The
             Authors
             opinion
             concerning
             an
             ●●usual
             and
             obscure
             
               Inscription
               ,
               p.
            
             2
             ,
             3.
             
             A
             ●●ssage
             in
             
               Vegetius
               de
               Re
               Militari
            
             ,
             misprinted
             in
             ●ll
             the
             publick
             Editions
             ,
             corrected
             from
             a
             〈◊〉
             at
             
               Grenoble
               ,
               p.
            
             3.
             
             Of
             Geneva
             .
             Their
             ●●amber
             of
             the
             Corn.
             The
             moderation
             of
             the
             Government
             in
             the
             price
             they
             ●ell
             it
             at
             ,
             compared
             with
             the
             exorbitant
             Rates
             imposed
             by
             the
             Pope
             in
             all
             his
             Territories
             upon
             Grain
             ,
             the
             buying
             and
             vending
             whereof
             he
             monopolizeth
             to
             himself
             ,
             p.
             4
             ,
             5.
             
             How
             the
             profit
             arising
             from
             Corn
             ,
             with
             the
             other
             Revenues
             of
             the
             State
             ,
             are
             applyed
             to
             the
             benefit
             of
             the
             Publick
             ,
             and
             not
             to
             the
             Enriching
             particular
             men
             ,
             ibid.
             The
             Learning
             and
             Knowledge
             of
             the
             Citizens
             ,
             beyond
             what
             is
             found
             commonly
             elsewhere
             .
             Their
             publick
             Justice
             ,
             
             personal
             Vertue
             and
             Sobriety
             ,
             and
             Severity
             to
             open
             lewdness
             .
             Their
             way
             of
             selling
             Estates
             ;
             and
             the
             Security
             of
             Titles
             there
             ,
             above
             what
             is
             in
             other
             places
             .
             The
             Constitution
             of
             their
             Government
             ,
             with
             the
             Method
             of
             Electing
             Members
             into
             their
             several
             Councils
             ,
             and
             of
             Chusing
             their
             Sindics
             ,
             and
             by
             whom
             ,
             p.
             5
             ,
             to
             8.
             
             A
             Description
             of
             Lausanne
             ,
             with
             some
             account
             of
             the
             Lake
             ,
             tha●
             lyes
             between
             it
             and
             
               Geneva
               ,
               p.
            
             9
             ,
             10.
             
             The
             perpendicular
             height
             of
             the
             
               Hill
               Maudit
               ,
               p.
            
             10.
             
             Of
             th●
             Canton
             of
             Bern
             ;
             Its
             Extent
             ,
             Government
             ,
             an●
             Manner
             of
             Electing
             Persons
             into
             the
             several
             Degrees
             of
             Magistracy
             ;
             with
             the
             Advantages
             accruing
             to
             those
             chosen
             into
             Bailiages
             .
             Th●
             Wealth
             of
             their
             peasants
             how
             attained
             .
             Th●
             T●mper
             and
             Constitution
             of
             the
             People
             in
             general
             .
             The
             application
             of
             their
             Women
             to
             domestick
             Affaits
             ,
             and
             Disposition
             of
             their
             Men
             fo●
             War
             ,
             p.
             10
             ,
             to
             15.
             
             Their
             
               Military
               Lists
            
             ,
             and
             wha●
             number
             they
             can
             bring
             into
             the
             Field
             ,
             Arm'd
             an●
             Disciplined
             ,
             upon
             a
             sudden
             Emergency
             ,
             and
             general
             Summons
             .
             The
             oversight
             of
             the
             Gov●rnment
             ,
             in
             suffering
             the
             French
             to
             possess
             themselves
             of
             the
             
               Franche
               Comt●
            
             ,
             after
             they
             were
             Masters
             of
             Alsace
             ;
             and
             how
             they
             were
             partly
             brib
             '
             into
             it
             ,
             and
             partly
             wheedled
             ,
             p.
             16
             ,
             17.
             
             Of
             th●
             War
             between
             the
             Canton
             of
             Bern
             ,
             and
             the
             Canton
             of
             Schwits
             1656.
             being
             occasioned
             by
             a
             La●
             made
             by
             the
             
               Popish
               Cantons
            
             ,
             rendring
             it
             capit●●
             to
             any
             to
             change
             their
             Religion
             ,
             &
             making
             the●●
             
             goods
             confiscable
             ,
             p.
             19
             ,
             20.
             
             A
             Description
             of
             the
             Town
             of
             Bern.
             The
             
               Great
               Church
            
             .
             The
             
               Dominicans
               Chappel
            
             ,
             with
             the
             famous
             Hole
             that
             went
             to
             an
             Image
             in
             the
             Church
             ,
             from
             one
             of
             the
             Cells
             of
             the
             
               Dominicans
               ,
               p.
            
             21
             ,
             22.
             
             The
             Difference
             betwixt
             the
             Dominicans
             and
             Franciscans
             ,
             about
             the
             maculate
             or
             inmaculate
             Conception
             of
             the
             Virgin
             .
             The
             Story
             of
             Ietzer
             ,
             with
             a
             large
             account
             of
             the
             horrid
             Cheat
             and
             imposture
             of
             the
             Dominicans
             ,
             for
             which
             several
             of
             them
             were
             executed
             at
             Bern
             1509.
             p.
             22
             ,
             to
             30.
             
             That
             Switzerland
             is
             better
             peopled
             than
             France
             or
             Italy
             ,
             tho
             Countries
             incomparably
             more
             rich
             ,
             and
             better
             scituated
             .
             Which
             proceeds
             from
             the
             Gentleness
             of
             the
             Government
             in
             the
             First
             ,
             and
             intolerable
             and
             oppressive
             Severity
             of
             it
             in
             the
             two
             latter
             ,
             p.
             30
             ,
             31.
             
             Of
             Soloturn
             and
             Friburg
             ,
             two
             of
             the
             chiefest
             
               Popish
               Cantons
            
             ;
             The
             strange
             Bigottry
             of
             the
             people
             there
             ,
             and
             their
             gross
             and
             sottish
             Idolatry
             and
             Superstition
             .
             How
             the
             Iesuites
             multiply
             in
             those
             Places
             ,
             and
             from
             the
             number
             of
             ten
             ,
             to
             which
             they
             were
             limited
             at
             Soloturn
             ,
             and
             one
             thousand
             Livres
             a
             year
             allowed
             for
             their
             Maintenance
             ,
             they
             are
             not
             only
             grown
             numerous
             ,
             but
             become
             so
             rich
             ,
             that
             they
             are
             raising
             a
             Colledg
             and
             Church
             ,
             which
             will
             cost
             400000
             
               Livres
               ,
               p.
            
             31
             ,
             32.
             
             Of
             the
             Wealth
             of
             some
             other
             Religious
             Houses
             in
             Soloturn
             ,
             and
             of
             the
             Fortification
             they
             are
             rasing
             about
             the
             Town
             ,
             p.
             33.
             
             Of
             the
             Government
             of
             that
             Canton
             ,
             and
             of
             the
             ill
             Administration
             of
             Justice
             there
             ,
             
             beyond
             what
             is
             in
             the
             Protestant
             
               Cantons
               ,
               ibid.
            
             Of
             ●aden
             ,
             which
             tho
             the
             Seat
             of
             the
             general
             Diet
             of
             the
             Cantons
             ,
             yet
             is
             not
             one
             of
             them
             ,
             but
             a
             Batliage
             belonging
             to
             eight
             of
             the
             ancient
             
               Cantons
               ,
               p.
            
             33
             ,
             34.
             
             Of
             the
             Canton
             of
             Zurich
             .
             It
             s
             Wealth
             .
             The
             number
             of
             disciplined
             Men
             ,
             which
             it
             can
             bring
             into
             the
             Field
             ,
             upon
             24.
             hours
             warning
             .
             The
             Nature
             of
             its
             Magistracy
             ,
             and
             the
             Regulation
             of
             their
             allowances
             .
             Their
             Trade
             by
             means
             of
             a
             large
             Lake
             .
             Their
             Manufactory
             of
             Crape
             ,
             and
             its
             goodness
             ,
             p.
             34.
             
             The
             scituation
             of
             the
             Town
             of
             Zurich
             .
             The
             Manners
             and
             Customs
             of
             the
             Inhabitants
             ,
             and
             their
             Freedom
             from
             Luxury
             and
             Vanity
             .
             The
             Magistracy
             of
             the
             City
             .
             The
             division
             of
             the
             whole
             Canton
             .
             It
             s
             honour
             ,
             in
             not
             being
             debauched
             by
             French
             Money
             ,
             to
             alter
             the
             ancient
             Capitulations
             with
             that
             Crown
             .
             Their
             Justice
             and
             Vertue
             in
             applying
             the
             ancient
             Revenues
             of
             the
             Church
             to
             pious
             uses
             .
             Their
             prudence
             in
             keeping
             the
             Edifices
             of
             their
             Hospitals
             mean
             ,
             and
             expending
             their
             Charity
             upon
             maintaining
             the
             poor
             that
             ar●
             in
             them
             ,
             p.
             35.
             
             Of
             the
             Salary
             of
             their
             Ecclesiasticks
             ,
             and
             the
             great
             Labour
             they
             are
             obliged
             unto
             ,
             p.
             36.
             
             Several
             Letters
             ,
             written
             by
             the
             most
             Eminent
             of
             the
             English
             Reformers
             to
             Bullinger
             ,
             preserved
             among
             the
             Archives
             of
             the
             Dean
             and
             Chapter
             in
             which
             they
             lament
             the
             retaining
             the
             
               Popish
               Vestments
            
             ,
             and
             the
             aversion
             they
             found
             in
             the
             Parliament
             ,
             to
             all
             the
             Propositions
             that
             were
             made
             for
             the
             Reformation
             of
             Abuses
             .
             And
             Iewel
             having
             
             declared
             in
             one
             ,
             how
             the
             Queen
             refused
             to
             be
             called
             
               Head
               of
               the
               Church
            
             ,
             adds
             ,
             that
             it
             could
             not
             be
             ascribed
             to
             any
             Mortal
             ,
             being
             only
             due
             to
             Christ
             ,
             p.
             36
             ,
             37
             ,
             38.
             
             Of
             the
             disagreement
             of
             ancient
             Manuscripts
             concerning
             that
             passage
             of
             
               St.
               Iohns
               Epistle
               ,
               There
               are
               thr●e
               that
               bear
               Witness
               in
               Heaven
               ,
            
             &c.
             
             To
             which
             are
             subjoyned
             many
             things
             worthy
             of
             observation
             ,
             p.
             38.
             to
             41.
             
             A
             new
             Regulation
             at
             Bern
             ,
             for
             the
             better
             Electing
             persons
             into
             
               Bailiages
               ,
               p
            
             41.
             
             The
             generous
             protection
             and
             unexemplified
             Charity
             ,
             which
             the
             
               Protestant
               Cantons
            
             have
             expressed
             to
             the
             
               French
               Refugies
               ,
               p.
            
             41
             ,
             42.
             
             A
             Reflexion
             of
             the
             Author
             on
             the
             Censure
             past
             by
             the
             Divines
             in
             Switzerland
             ,
             against
             the
             Opinions
             of
             Amirald
             ,
             concerning
             the
             Divine
             Decrees
             ,
             and
             the
             Extent
             of
             the
             Death
             of
             
               Christ
               ,
               &c.
               p.
            
             42
             ,
             43.
             
             Of
             a
             Tax
             under
             which
             the
             Switzers
             lye
             when
             Estates
             are
             sold
             ,
             and
             how
             it
             serves
             to
             prevent
             ill
             Husbandry
             ,
             p.
             44.
             
             A
             further
             account
             of
             those
             Cantons
             ,
             where
             both
             the
             Reformed
             and
             Popish
             Religion
             are
             tolerated
             ;
             and
             how
             from
             the
             diminution
             of
             the
             Papists
             in
             Glaris
             ,
             some
             endeavoured
             to
             raise
             a
             War
             betwixt
             the
             Protestant
             and
             Popish
             Cantons
             ;
             and
             in
             the
             inte●im
             ,
             while
             things
             seem'd
             to
             tend
             to
             a
             rupture
             ,
             how
             the
             French
             begun
             their
             Fortification
             at
             
               Hunningen
               ,
               p.
            
             44
             ,
             45.
             
          
        
         
           
           
             The
             Second
             LETTER
             .
             From
             Milan
             .
          
           
             OF
             the
             Bridge
             upon
             the
             Lake
             at
             
               Ripperswood
               ,
               p.
            
             46.
             
             Of
             Coire
             ,
             the
             chief
             Town
             of
             the
             Grisons
             .
             Of
             the
             Chappel
             pretended
             to
             be
             
               St.
               Lucius's
            
             ,
             and
             what
             the
             Author
             said
             to
             the
             Bishop
             of
             Coire
             ,
             to
             convince
             ●hat
             all
             related
             of
             King
             Lucius
             in
             that
             Matter
             ,
             and
             of
             his
             writing
             to
             
               Pope
               Eleutherius
            
             ,
             was
             a
             Fable
             .
             Of
             a
             difference
             between
             the
             Bishop
             and
             his
             Chapter
             about
             Exemptions
             ,
             and
             the
             Authors
             opinion
             in
             reference
             to
             that
             pretended
             Priviledge
             ,
             p.
             46
             ,
             47
             ,
             48.
             
             The
             temper
             of
             the
             present
             Bishop
             .
             The
             yearly
             Revenue
             belonging
             to
             him
             ,
             and
             to
             the
             several
             Prebendaries
             .
             The
             Nature
             of
             the
             Country
             ,
             with
             the
             Wealth
             of
             the
             People
             ,
             and
             how
             it
             ariseth
             .
             The
             Constitution
             of
             the
             Government
             .
             The
             Division
             of
             the
             Countrey
             into
             Leagues
             .
             Whence
             ,
             and
             upon
             what
             occasion
             it
             came
             to
             be
             inhabited
             .
             Of
             whom
             the
             General
             Diet
             consists
             ,
             and
             of
             a
             late
             contest
             among
             themselves
             ,
             and
             with
             the
             Emperor
             ,
             p.
             48.
             to
             51.
             
             How
             they
             shook
             off
             the
             Austrian
             Jurisdiction
             ,
             and
             their
             zeal
             and
             Courage
             in
             vindicating
             and
             defending
             their
             Liberty
             ,
             p.
             51.
             
             The
             Distribution
             of
             the
             several
             Leagues
             into
             so
             many
             Communities
             ;
             and
             in
             which
             Communities
             the
             Popish
             Religion
             is
             received
             ,
             and
             in
             which
             the
             Protestant
             .
             The
             absolute
             Authority
             that
             each
             hath
             within
             itself
             ,
             
             p.
             52.
             
             The
             manner
             of
             keeping
             their
             Diets
             ,
             and
             the
             Customs
             therein
             observed
             ,
             ibid.
             Of
             the
             
               Valteline
               ,
               Chavennes
            
             ,
             and
             Bormio
             ,
             Territories
             which
             the
             three
             Leagues
             possess
             in
             Italy
             :
             and
             how
             they
             obtained
             them
             ;
             With
             an
             account
             of
             the
             Fertility
             of
             the
             Soil
             in
             the
             
               Valteline
               ,
               p.
            
             54
             ,
             55.
             
             Of
             the
             Ease
             and
             Liberty
             that
             those
             Districts
             enjoy
             under
             the
             Leagues
             ;
             and
             of
             a
             Constitution
             among
             them
             ,
             by
             which
             the
             Peasants
             may
             demand
             a
             
               Chamber
               of
               Iustice
            
             ,
             when
             they
             judge
             themselves
             oppressed
             ,
             or
             aggrieved
             .
             Of
             the
             Massacre
             in
             the
             
               Valteline
               anno
            
             1618.
             and
             the
             War
             that
             ensued
             upon
             it
             ;
             with
             the
             issue
             of
             it
             ,
             through
             the
             Wisdom
             and
             Conduct
             of
             the
             Duke
             of
             
               Rohan
               ,
               p.
            
             55
             ,
             to
             60.
             
             Of
             the
             Laws
             by
             which
             they
             are
             governed
             ;
             with
             some
             of
             the
             Civil
             and
             Religious
             Customs
             that
             prevail
             among
             them
             ,
             p.
             62
             ,
             63.
             
             A
             remarkable
             Story
             of
             about
             2000.
             that
             fled
             anno
             1685.
             out
             of
             a
             Valley
             of
             Tirol
             ,
             for
             fear
             of
             being
             destroyed
             upon
             the
             score
             of
             their
             Religion
             ,
             and
             who
             seem
             by
             the
             Articles
             of
             their
             Faith
             ,
             and
             the
             simplicity
             of
             their
             Worship
             ,
             to
             be
             a
             remnant
             of
             the
             old
             
               Waldenses
               ,
               p.
            
             64
             ,
             65.
             
             Of
             the
             way
             from
             Coire
             to
             Chavennes
             ,
             with
             an
             account
             of
             the
             most
             observable
             Villages
             upon
             the
             Road
             ,
             p.
             65
             ,
             66.
             
             Of
             Chavennes
             ;
             Its
             scituation
             .
             The
             fertility
             of
             the
             Soil
             ,
             Easiness
             of
             the
             Government
             ,
             Plentifulness
             as
             to
             all
             sort
             of
             Provisions
             ,
             with
             an
             account
             of
             the
             Nature
             of
             their
             Wine
             ,
             and
             the
             manner
             how
             they
             both
             make
             and
             preserve
             it
             ,
             p.
             66
             ,
             to
             69.
             
             A
             Kind
             of
             
             Stone
             here
             ,
             and
             in
             the
             Valteline
             ,
             which
             they
             use
             instead
             of
             Mettle
             for
             making
             pots
             ,
             p.
             69.
             
             The
             deplorable
             Fate
             of
             the
             Town
             Pleurs
             ,
             which
             was
             buried
             ,
             together
             with
             its
             Inhabitants
             ,
             by
             the
             fall
             of
             a
             Mountain
             ,
             anno
             1618.
             p.
             70
             ,
             71.
             
             Of
             the
             Lakes
             of
             Chavennes
             and
             
               Como
               ,
               p.
            
             71
             ,
             72.
             
             Of
             Codelago
             and
             Lugane
             ,
             with
             other
             small
             Provinces
             here
             belonging
             to
             the
             Switzers
             ;
             where
             as
             the
             people
             live
             at
             ease
             ,
             so
             the
             Country
             ,
             tho
             extreamly
             barr●n
             ,
             is
             abundantly
             peopled
             ,
             p.
             73.
             
             Of
             
               Lago
               Maggiore
            
             ,
             and
             of
             the
             
               Borromean
               Islands
            
             ,
             which
             as
             to
             loveliness
             and
             fertility
             nothing
             equals
             ,
             p.
             73
             ,
             74.
             
             Of
             Lombardy
             .
             It
             s
             Extent
             ,
             pleasantness
             ,
             goodness
             of
             Soil
             .
             The
             Inhabitants
             inconceivably
             poor
             ,
             by
             reason
             of
             the
             severity
             of
             the
             Government
             ,
             p.
             75.
             
             The
             Lake
             cut
             by
             Francis
             the
             First
             from
             the
             River
             Tesine
             to
             
               Millan
               ,
               ibid.
            
             Of
             the
             City
             Millan
             .
             The
             Dimensions
             of
             the
             Dutchy
             .
             It
             s
             Wealth
             .
             The
             Extent
             of
             the
             Town
             .
             The
             Nobleness
             of
             the
             Structures
             .
             The
             Grandure
             and
             Beauty
             of
             the
             Dome
             ,
             where
             the
             Body
             of
             
               S.
               Carlo
               Borromeo
            
             lies
             .
             A
             short
             Character
             of
             that
             Prelate
             ,
             and
             what
             marks
             of
             his
             Wealth
             and
             Beneficence
             are
             to
             be
             seen
             in
             the
             Town
             ,
             p.
             76
             ,
             77
             ,
             78.
             
             Of
             other
             Churches
             and
             Convents
             .
             The
             Hospital
             ,
             with
             the
             Lazarette
             adjoyning
             to
             it
             ,
             p.
             78
             ,
             79.
             
             Of
             the
             
               Ambrosian
               Office
            
             used
             here
             ,
             and
             its
             distinction
             from
             the
             
               Roman
               ,
               p.
            
             79
             ,
             80.
             
             A
             remarkable
             passage
             in
             the
             Books
             of
             the
             Sacraments
             ascribed
             to
             S.
             Ambrose
             ,
             where
             the
             Hosty
             is
             said
             to
             be
             
               the
               Figure
               of
               the
               Body
               and
               
               Blood
               of
               Christ
               ,
               p
               ,
            
             81
             ,
             82.
             
             Of
             Ancient
             Offices
             ,
             and
             why
             none
             to
             be
             seen
             in
             the
             Vatican
             .
             A
             Manuscript
             Translation
             of
             Iosephus
             by
             Ruffinus
             ,
             in
             the
             
               Ambrosian
               Library
               ,
               p.
            
             82.
             
             No
             Glass
             Windows
             in
             Millan
             ,
             not
             yet
             in
             Florence
             .
             The
             people
             deplorably
             poor
             ,
             while
             the
             Churches
             and
             Convents
             are
             so
             extravagantly
             rich
             .
             The
             Decay
             of
             their
             Wealth
             ,
             occasioned
             in
             part
             through
             a
             faileur
             in
             the
             exportation
             of
             their
             Silks
             ,
             p.
             83.
             
             An
             account
             of
             a
             Gentlewomen
             at
             Geneva
             ,
             who
             besides
             her
             being
             greatly
             accomplished
             in
             Languages
             &
             Sciences
             ,
             writes
             legibly
             ,
             tho
             blind
             since
             she
             was
             a
             year
             old
             ,
             p.
             83
             ,
             to
             86.
             
          
        
         
           
             The
             Third
             LETTER
             .
             From
             Florence
             .
          
           
             THe
             Frontier
             Towns
             of
             the
             Spaniards
             and
             Venetians
             in
             Italy
             ,
             ill
             fortified
             ,
             as
             appears
             by
             Lodi
             the
             last
             Garrison
             belonging
             to
             the
             Spaniards
             in
             Millan
             ,
             and
             Crema
             ,
             the
             first
             Garrison
             appertaining
             to
             the
             Venetians
             .
             Of
             the
             Civil
             and
             Military
             Officers
             ,
             which
             the
             Venetians
             send
             into
             their
             several
             Territories
             and
             Provinces
             .
             The
             Cheese
             that
             goes
             by
             the
             name
             of
             Parmesan
             ,
             is
             made
             chiefly
             at
             
               Lodi
               ,
               p.
            
             86.
             
             Of
             Brescia
             ,
             where
             the
             best
             Barrils
             for
             Pistols
             and
             Muskets
             are
             made
             .
             A
             famous
             Nunnery
             there
             fallen
             into
             disgrace
             occasioned
             by
             the
             Priests
             conversing
             with
             the
             Nuns
             through
             a
             private
             
               Vault
               ,
               p.
            
             87.
             
             Of
             the
             Lake
             of
             Guarda
             ,
             a●d
             the
             difference
             between
             the
             Miles
             in
             Lombardy
             and
             
               Naples
               ,
               p.
            
             88.
             
             Of
             Ve●ona
             .
             It
             s
             poverty
             .
             The
             
             baseness
             of
             the
             Coyn.
             The
             Remains
             of
             an
             old
             
               Roman
               Amphitheatre
            
             .
             The
             
               Museum
               Calceolarium
            
             furnished
             with
             many
             Antiquities
             and
             Rarities
             ,
             p.
             88
             ,
             89.
             
             The
             Wine
             called
             
               Vino
               Santo
            
             ,
             that
             grows
             near
             the
             Lake
             Guarda
             .
             Of
             the
             Colour
             of
             the
             Cattel
             and
             Hoggs
             in
             
               Italy
               ,
               p.
            
             89.
             
             Of
             Vincenza
             .
             The
             riches
             of
             the
             Palaces
             and
             Churches
             .
             A
             modern
             Theatre
             .
             Count
             Valerano's
             Gardens
             .
             The
             Courseness
             of
             the
             Images
             ,
             and
             their
             gross
             
               Idolatry
               ,
               p.
            
             90.
             
             Of
             Padua
             .
             The
             Vniversity
             much
             decay'd
             ,
             and
             by
             what
             means
             .
             The
             Quarrels
             among
             the
             Paduan
             Nobility
             ,
             and
             what
             Advantages
             the
             Venetians
             make
             of
             them
             ,
             p.
             90
             ,
             91.
             
             Their
             Churches
             ,
             and
             the
             Devotion
             payd
             to
             
               S.
               Anthony
            
             ,
             who
             in
             one
             of
             the
             little
             Vows
             that
             hang
             without
             the
             holy
             Chappel
             ,
             is
             said
             
               to
               hear
               those
               whom
               God
               himself
               doth
               not
               hear
               ,
               p.
            
             92.
             
             Why
             the
             Venetians
             imploy
             not
             their
             own
             Subjects
             in
             their
             Wars
             ,
             p.
             93.
             
             The
             Palaces
             from
             Padua
             to
             Venice
             ,
             on
             both
             ●ides
             the
             River
             
               Brent
               ,
               ibid.
            
             Of
             the
             Lagunes
             ,
             and
             that
             they
             grow
             dayly
             more
             shallow
             .
             Of
             the
             City
             of
             Venice
             .
             The
             Buildings
             ,
             Palaces
             ,
             Churches
             ,
             Bridges
             ,
             Arsenal
             ,
             Convents
             ;
             Their
             Beauty
             and
             Wealth
             ;
             with
             the
             meanness
             of
             the
             Library
             of
             
               S.
               Mark
               ,
               p.
            
             93.
             to
             97.
             
             Of
             the
             small
             Consideration
             they
             have
             for
             Father
             Paul
             ,
             and
             of
             the
             Memorials
             out
             of
             which
             〈◊〉
             collected
             his
             History
             ,
             p.
             97.
             
             The
             Attest●tions
             produced
             by
             Mr.
             Arnaud
             ,
             for
             the
             agreement
             of
             the
             
               Greek
               Church
            
             with
             the
             Latin
             ,
             in
             the
             matter
             of
             Transubstantiation
             ,
             where
             
             penned
             ,
             and
             how
             obtained
             :
             With
             an
             account
             of
             the
             ignorance
             and
             corruption
             of
             the
             
               Greek
               Priests
               ,
               p.
            
             97
             ,
             98.
             
             A
             famous
             
               Venetian
               Lady
            
             ,
             that
             spake
             Greek
             and
             Latin
             well
             ,
             besides
             three
             other
             Languages
             ,
             and
             who
             commenced
             Dr.
             of
             Physick
             .
             Of
             the
             Ancient
             
               Noble
               Families
            
             of
             Venice
             .
             To
             whom
             ,
             and
             upon
             what
             occasion
             the
             honor
             of
             being
             Noble
             Venetian
             is
             imparted
             ,
             p.
             98
             ,
             99
             ,
             100.
             
             The
             limited
             Power
             of
             the
             Duke
             ,
             and
             that
             that
             Dignity
             is
             not
             worth
             a
             wise
             Mans
             Courting
             .
             The
             reason
             of
             Sagr●do's
             being
             put
             by
             from
             being
             Duke
             ;
             his
             retiring
             thereupon
             from
             the
             City
             ;
             and
             the
             Books
             he
             wrote
             during
             his
             retirement
             ,
             p.
             102
             ,
             103.
             
             Why
             married
             Men
             are
             not
             now
             chosen
             to
             that
             honour
             ,
             and
             of
             Titles
             forbidden
             ,
             and
             allowed
             ,
             p.
             103.
             
             The
             Authority
             of
             the
             Senate
             over
             the
             Ecclesiasticks
             ;
             and
             the
             limited
             power
             of
             their
             Bishop
             ;
             and
             that
             the
             very
             Clergy
             have
             little
             dependence
             upon
             him
             .
             Of
             the
             Election
             of
             their
             Curat
             's
             by
             the
             Inhabitants
             of
             every
             Parish
             ,
             and
             the
             Liberty
             which
             the
             Candidates
             take
             to
             defame
             and
             expose
             one
             another
             ,
             p.
             103
             ,
             104.
             
             Ignorance
             and
             Vice
             the
             chief
             Characters
             of
             all
             Priests
             ,
             especially
             at
             Venice
             .
             The
             licence
             assumed
             by
             many
             of
             their
             Nuns
             ,
             particularly
             by
             those
             that
             call
             themselves
             
               Noble
               Venetians
            
             .
             All
             Ecclesiasticks
             precluded
             from
             a
             share
             in
             the
             Government
             ;
             and
             in
             case
             any
             be
             promoted
             to
             the
             Hat
             ,
             their
             Friends
             and
             Rel●tions
             become
             uncapable
             (
             during
             their
             lives
             both
             of
             Imployments
             ,
             and
             of
             sitting
             in
             the
             
               Great
               Council
               ,
               
               p.
            
             104
             ,
             105.
             
             The
             Inquisition
             at
             Venice
             ,
             through
             being
             subject
             to
             the
             Senate
             ,
             does
             little
             hurt
             .
             Many
             Protestants
             there
             ,
             whom
             the
             Senate
             gives
             no
             trouble
             to
             .
             The
             Hosty
             not
             carried
             openly
             in
             procession
             .
             The
             Venetians
             generally
             unconcerned
             as
             well
             as
             ignorant
             in
             matters
             of
             Religion
             ,
             p.
             105
             ,
             106.
             
             Most
             of
             the
             young
             Nobility
             corrupted
             in
             their
             Morals
             ;
             and
             wholly
             decline
             all
             Military
             Imployments
             :
             So
             that
             their
             Officers
             as
             well
             as
             Souldiers
             are
             strangers
             .
             The
             reason
             of
             the
             degeneracy
             of
             the
             Italians
             ,
             and
             in
             particular
             of
             the
             
               Venetian
               Nobility
               ,
               p.
            
             106
             ,
             107
             ,
             108.
             
             The
             pleasures
             which
             they
             pursue
             ,
             are
             all
             bruitish
             :
             but
             the
             noble
             and
             innocent
             pleasures
             of
             Friendship
             and
             Marriage
             ,
             &c.
             they
             understand
             not
             .
             Their
             Houses
             stately
             ,
             but
             not
             convenient
             .
             Neither
             their
             Bread
             ,
             Wine
             ,
             not
             the
             Cookery
             of
             their
             Flesh
             good
             .
             Their
             Coaches
             uneasy
             ,
             and
             the
             Carriages
             through
             all
             Lombardy
             inconvenient
             ,
             p.
             108.
             to
             111.
             
             Of
             the
             
               late
               created
               Nobility
            
             ;
             the
             Sum
             they
             obt●ined
             it
             for
             ;
             their
             number
             ;
             and
             the
             prejudices
             arising
             hereby
             both
             to
             the
             Republick
             and
             the
             ancient
             
               Nobility
               ,
               p.
            
             111
             ,
             112
             ,
             113.
             
             By
             whom
             Crimes
             ,
             committed
             by
             any
             of
             the
             Nobility
             against
             the
             Stat●
             are
             judged
             ,
             and
             by
             whom
             the
             Offences
             of
             other
             Subjects
             are
             tryed
             ,
             p.
             114
             ,
             115.
             
             Of
             the
             Inquisitors
             of
             State.
             The
             extent
             of
             their
             Authority
             .
             The
             Quality
             and
             Merit
             of
             their
             persons
             ;
             and
             the
             usefulness
             of
             that
             Tribunal
             ,
             p.
             115.
             to
             118.
             
             Of
             Mr.
             
               de
               la
               Hay
            
             ,
             French
             Ambassador
             at
             Venice
             ;
             His
             
             Character
             ,
             p.
             118.
             
             The
             Road
             from
             venice
             to
             Ferrara
             .
             The
             Town
             as
             well
             as
             Country
             of
             Ferrara
             ,
             forsaken
             of
             their
             Inhabitans
             ,
             through
             the
             ravenousness
             of
             the
             Priests
             ,
             and
             the
             oppressiveness
             of
             the
             Government
             .
             However
             the
             Churches
             and
             Convents
             are
             vastly
             rich
             ,
             and
             that
             from
             the
             Vanity
             of
             the
             people
             ,
             more
             than
             from
             their
             Superstition
             ,
             p.
             119
             ,
             120.
             
             Of
             Bologna
             ,
             which
             having
             delivered
             it self
             to
             the
             Pope
             upon
             a
             Capitulation
             ,
             hath
             thereby
             preserved
             many
             of
             its
             Priviledges
             ,
             and
             so
             continues
             Wealthy
             and
             well
             peopled
             ,
             p.
             121.
             
             Its
             Palaces
             ,
             Churches
             and
             Convents
             ,
             in
             one
             of
             which
             (
             namely
             that
             of
             the
             
               Canons
               Regular
            
             of
             St.
             Salvator
             )
             there
             is
             a
             Scrowl
             of
             the
             
               Hebrew
               Bible
            
             ,
             pretended
             to
             be
             written
             by
             Ezra's
             own
             hand
             ,
             but
             falsely
             .
             The
             
               Meridional
               Line
            
             ,
             which
             Cassini
             laid
             along
             the
             pavement
             of
             St.
             Petrones's
             Church
             ,
             p.
             122.
             
             Of
             Ioan's
             Statute
             there
             ,
             and
             the
             Authors
             unbelief
             as
             to
             such
             a
             person
             's
             having
             been
             Pope
             .
             Of
             the
             Monastery
             of
             St.
             M●chael
             on
             the
             Hill
             above
             Bologna
             ,
             and
             of
             a
             Madona
             of
             St.
             Lukes
             ,
             four
             miles
             from
             the
             Town
             ,
             p.
             123.
             
             Of
             the
             Appenine
             Hills
             ,
             and
             of
             Pretolino
             ,
             one
             of
             the
             Duke's
             Palaces
             ,
             which
             stands
             on
             the
             last
             of
             them
             ;
             with
             some
             account
             of
             the
             Gardens
             in
             
               Italy
               ,
               p.
            
             124
             ,
             125.
             
             Of
             Florence
             .
             The
             
               Great
               Dukes
               Palace
            
             .
             The
             Dome
             ,
             with
             its
             Cupolo
             ,
             and
             Baptistery
             .
             Of
             the
             Chappel
             of
             
               St.
               Laurence
            
             ,
             where
             the
             Bodies
             of
             the
             great
             Dukes
             lye
             deposited
             .
             The
             Statues
             in
             it
             ,
             particularly
             that
             of
             the
             Virgin
             by
             
               Mich.
               Angelo
            
             .
             The
             Library
             belonging
             to
             
             it
             ,
             well
             replenished
             with
             
               Manuscripts
               ,
               p.
            
             125
             ,
             126
             ,
             127.
             
             Florence
             much
             decayed
             ,
             and
             Siena
             and
             Pisa
             shrunk
             into
             nothing
             ,
             and
             that
             more
             from
             the
             severity
             of
             the
             Government
             ,
             than
             the
             Decay
             of
             their
             silk
             Trade
             ,
             p.
             127
             ,
             128.
             
             A
             comparison
             between
             the
             Territories
             of
             the
             
               Venetians
               ,
               Genoa's
            
             and
             Switz●rs
             in
             Italy
             ,
             which
             are
             well
             peopled
             ,
             and
             the
             Inhabitants
             rich
             ;
             and
             the
             Territories
             of
             the
             
               Great
               Duke
            
             ,
             the
             Pope
             ,
             and
             the
             
               King
               of
               Spain
            
             ,
             where
             there
             are
             few
             people
             ,
             those
             miserably
             poor
             .
             However
             the
             Churches
             are
             rich
             ,
             which
             helpt
             also
             to
             sink
             their
             Trade
             ,
             p.
             128
             ,
             129.
             
             The
             Inns
             ,
             when
             one
             hath
             past
             the
             Appenines
             ,
             wretchedly
             accommodated
             .
             p.
             130.
             
          
        
         
           
             The
             Fourth
             LETTER
             .
             From
             Rome
             .
          
           
             THe
             great
             desolation
             that
             appears
             in
             all
             the
             Popes
             Territories
             ,
             through
             the
             rigour
             of
             the
             Government
             .
             For
             a
             Prince
             to
             be
             Elective
             ,
             and
             yet
             Absolute
             ,
             a
             great
             solecism
             in
             Government
             .
             The
             Pope
             the
             most
             
               Absolute
               Prince
            
             in
             Europe
             in
             Temporals
             ,
             allowing
             the
             Cardinals
             no
             share
             with
             him
             in
             that
             ,
             tho
             he
             admit
             them
             to
             share
             with
             him
             over
             the
             Affairs
             of
             the
             Church
             .
             The
             incongruity
             both
             of
             the
             one
             and
             the
             
               other
               ,
               p.
            
             131
             ,
             132
             ,
             133.
             
             A
             brief
             account
             and
             Character
             of
             the
             present
             ,
             and
             the
             three
             
               preceding
               Popes
            
             .
             The
             scandal
             arising
             to
             Christian
             Religion
             through
             the
             neglect
             of
             Justice
             
             and
             Mercy
             by
             him
             that
             stiles
             himself
             Christs
             Vicar
             .
             A
             handsome
             Reflection
             made
             to
             the
             Author
             by
             a
             
               Roman
               Prince
            
             ,
             upon
             the
             folly
             of
             Oppressions
             ,
             p.
             134
             ,
             135
             ,
             136.
             
             The
             present
             Vice-Roy
             of
             Naples
             the
             Marquis
             of
             Carpi
             ,
             commended
             for
             Wisdom
             ,
             Moderation
             and
             Justice
             .
             His
             suppressing
             the
             insolency
             of
             the
             Spaniards
             over
             the
             Natives
             .
             His
             maintaining
             the
             Souldiers
             in
             Discipline
             ,
             and
             paying
             them
             exactly
             .
             His
             Reforming
             the
             Courts
             of
             Judicature
             .
             His
             extirpating
             the
             Banditi
             ,
             and
             by
             what
             means
             .
             The
             design
             he
             is
             upon
             of
             bringing
             the
             Money
             to
             its
             true
             value
             ,
             p.
             136
             ,
             137
             ,
             138.
             
             The
             Iesuites
             being
             the
             Proprietors
             of
             near
             the
             half
             of
             Apulia
             ,
             treat
             their
             Tenants
             with
             that
             rigour
             ,
             that
             the
             Country
             is
             much
             desolated
             ,
             and
             many
             die
             of
             hunger
             .
             The
             Sloth
             and
             Lasiness
             of
             the
             Neapolitans
             ,
             hinders
             their
             making
             those
             advantages
             of
             the
             produce
             of
             the
             Country
             which
             they
             might
             .
             The
             provision
             here
             for
             Travellers
             bad
             ,
             and
             the
             accommodation
             worse
             .
             Four
             parts
             of
             Five
             of
             all
             the
             Wealth
             of
             the
             Kingdom
             of
             Naples
             in
             Church-mens
             hands
             ,
             p.
             139
             ,
             140.
             
             Of
             the
             Churches
             and
             Convents
             in
             Naples
             ,
             particularly
             of
             the
             Hospital
             ,
             stiled
             the
             Annunciata
             .
             The
             Iesuites
             great
             Merchants
             ,
             especially
             in
             Wine
             ,
             wherein
             the
             Minims
             also
             deal
             ,
             but
             more
             scandalously
             ,
             in
             selling
             it
             by
             retail
             ,
             p.
             140
             ,
             141.
             
             A
             priviledge
             which
             the
             Convents
             have
             as
             to
             buying
             Houses
             in
             the
             Town
             .
             And
             that
             the
             Wealth
             of
             the
             Clergy
             is
             so
             great
             ,
             that
             they
             are
             in
             a
             fair
             way
             of
             making
             themselves
             
             Masters
             of
             the
             Kingdom
             .
             The
             contempt
             that
             Secular
             persons
             have
             for
             them
             .
             More
             Learning
             at
             Naples
             ,
             than
             in
             all
             other
             places
             of
             Valetta's
             Library
             ,
             and
             of
             the
             learned
             Men
             that
             assemble
             at
             his
             House
             ;
             of
             which
             number
             there
             are
             none
             of
             the
             Clergy
             ,
             save
             one
             Rinaldi
             .
             The
             Imputations
             which
             the
             Church-men
             cast
             upon
             persons
             that
             have
             any
             tast
             of
             learning
             or
             good
             sense
             .
             The
             Temptation
             which
             men
             of
             wit●
             are
             lyable
             unto
             ,
             of
             disbelieving
             the
             Christian
             Religion
             ,
             from
             the
             Idea
             which
             what
             they
             see
             among
             Priests
             and
             people
             give
             them
             of
             it
             .
             The
             preaching
             of
             the
             Monks
             silly
             and
             ridiculous
             .
             All
             the
             learning
             among
             the
             Clergy
             at
             Naples
             among
             a
             Few
             
               Secular
               Priests
               ,
               p.
            
             141
             ,
             142
             ,
             143.
             
             Of
             Molinos
             .
             His
             new
             Method
             .
             How
             much
             it
             prevails
             .
             Opposed
             by
             the
             Iesuites
             ;
             and
             why
             ▪
             The
             Pope
             hath
             a
             favorable
             opinion
             of
             him
             ,
             and
             yet
             through
             the
             complaint
             of
             some
             Cardinals
             ,
             and
             the
             influence
             of
             a
             great
             King
             ,
             hath
             caused
             throw
             him
             into
             the
             Inquisition
             .
             A
             pleasant
             saying
             of
             Pasquin's
             thereupon
             ,
             p.
             143
             ,
             144
             ,
             145.
             
             Of
             the
             City
             of
             Naples
             .
             It
             s
             Bigness
             ,
             Beauty
             ,
             and
             Supply
             as
             to
             provisions
             .
             Of
             the
             Vice-Roy's
             Palace
             ,
             with
             the
             Pictures
             and
             Statues
             in
             it
             ,
             p.
             145.
             
             The
             Catacomb's
             here
             and
             at
             Rome
             described
             .
             The
             use
             they
             ancienlty
             served
             for
             .
             An●
             account
             of
             some
             Inscriptions
             to
             be
             found
             among
             those
             at
             Naples
             .
             That
             they
             were
             not
             the
             Repositories
             of
             the
             Relicks
             of
             the
             ancient
             Christians
             ▪
             
             But
             the
             common
             Burying
             places
             of
             the
             Heathen
             .
             This
             demon●trated
             ,
             p.
             146.
             to
             152.
             
             When
             Burying
             began
             among
             the
             Romans
             ,
             discoursed
             at
             large
             ,
             and
             cleared
             by
             Testimonies
             out
             of
             old
             Roman
             Authors
             ,
             p.
             152.
             to
             155.
             
             The
             Bones
             sent
             from
             hence
             ,
             as
             the
             Relicks
             of
             primitive
             Christians
             and
             Martyr's
             ,
             nothing
             but
             the
             Bones
             of
             Heathens
             ,
             and
             for
             the
             most
             part
             of
             those
             of
             the
             meanest
             and
             most
             infamous
             Rank
             ,
             p.
             155.
             
             Of
             
               Mont
               Vesuvio
            
             .
             The
             Earthquakes
             occasioned
             about
             Naples
             ,
             by
             the
             Convulsions
             of
             that
             Hill.
             The
             operation
             which
             its
             heat
             hath
             ,
             to
             make
             the
             Soil●bout
             ●bout
             fruitful
             ,
             and
             the
             Air
             pure
             ,
             p.
             156.
             
             Of
             the
             Cave
             that
             pierceth
             the
             Pausalippe
             ,
             with
             the
             Hot
             Bath
             near
             unto
             it
             ,
             with
             the
             Grots
             that
             send
             out
             poysonous
             steams
             ,
             ibid.
             Of
             the
             Bay
             of
             Puzzoli
             .
             The
             Rarities
             which
             occur
             there
             ,
             particularly
             of
             the
             Sulfatara
             ;
             and
             of
             the
             Cave
             ,
             where
             the
             Sybil
             is
             said
             to
             have
             given
             out
             her
             Inspirations
             ,
             p.
             157
             ,
             158.
             
             Of
             the
             Rests
             of
             Caligula's
             Bridge
             .
             The
             depth
             of
             the
             Water
             where
             the
             Pillars
             were
             built
             ,
             that
             supported
             the
             Arches
             .
             The
             Extent
             of
             the
             Bridge
             .
             The
             whole
             ,
             a
             Monument
             of
             Caligula's
             extravagancy
             and
             profuseness
             ;
             as
             the
             great
             Fish-pond
             and
             the
             
               Centum
               Camera
            
             hewn
             out
             of
             the
             Rock
             ,
             were
             of
             Nero's
             .
             The
             Baths
             of
             Puzzoli
             .
             The
             
               Via
               Appia
            
             .
             The
             Isle
             of
             
               Caprea
               ,
               p.
            
             158
             ,
             to
             162.
             
             Of
             Rome
             .
             The
             
               Via
               Flamminia
            
             on
             the
             Tuscan
             side
             .
             Of
             Peter's
             Church
             ,
             and
             of
             the
             Palace
             adjoyning
             ,
             with
             the
             
             Defects
             in
             that
             ,
             and
             in
             other
             Roman
             Palaces
             .
             Of
             the
             
               Villa
               Borghese
            
             ,
             and
             
               Villa
               Pamphilia
            
             ,
             and
             how
             the
             Palaces
             in
             Rome
             are
             furnished
             ,
             p.
             162
             ,
             163
             ,
             164.
             
             Of
             the
             
               vatican
               Library
            
             ,
             and
             what
             the
             Author
             observed
             in
             the
             Manuscripts
             relating
             to
             the
             Council
             of
             Constance
             ;
             and
             of
             the
             difference
             between
             Mr.
             Schelstrat
             and
             Mr.
             Maimbourg
             ,
             concerning
             that
             Council
             ;
             with
             the
             Authors
             opinion
             as
             to
             that
             difference
             ,
             p.
             165.166
             ,
             167.
             
             Of
             the
             learned
             Men
             at
             Rome
             ,
             such
             as
             
               Bellori
               ,
               Fabri
            
             ,
             and
             Nazar●
             ,
             with
             a
             Character
             of
             Cardinal
             
               d'
               Estré
            
             ,
             and
             Cardinal
             Howard
             ;
             and
             what
             small
             account
             the
             present
             Pope
             makes
             of
             learned
             Men
             ,
             p.
             168
             ,
             169.
             
             The
             contempt
             that
             the
             Romans
             have
             for
             the
             present
             Pontificate
             ,
             with
             an
             impartial
             Character
             of
             the
             Pope
             himself
             ,
             p.
             169
             ,
             170.
             
             A
             Nation
             may
             not
             only
             be
             dispeopled
             ,
             by
             driving
             people
             out
             of
             it
             ,
             but
             by
             weakning
             the
             natural
             Fertility
             of
             the
             Subjects
             .
             Two
             Stories
             of
             the
             Fruitfulness
             of
             persons
             ▪
             at
             Geneva
             ,
             whereas
             a
             strange
             Barrenness
             reigns
             over
             all
             
               Italy
               ,
               p.
            
             170.
             
             Of
             the
             Fountains
             and
             Aquaducts
             at
             Rome
             .
             Of
             the
             Civility
             of
             the
             People
             ▪
             and
             that
             their
             Conversation
             is
             generally
             upon
             News
             .
             A
             Character
             of
             the
             Queen
             of
             Sweden
             ,
             with
             a
             saying
             she
             had
             to
             the
             Author
             of
             her self
             .
             The
             jealousy
             that
             the
             Romans
             have
             of
             their
             Wives
             ,
             and
             why
             :
             with
             an
             account
             of
             the
             vertuous
             deportment
             of
             the
             Dutchess
             of
             Bracciano
             amidst
             all
             the
             innocent
             Freedoms
             of
             Conversation
             ,
             p.
             171
             ,
             172
             ,
             173
             ▪
             Of
             the
             Capitol
             ,
             the
             
               Tarpeian
               Rock
               ,
               Severus'●
               
               Triump●al
               Arch
               ,
            
             and
             other
             ancient
             Rarities
             and
             Monuments
             ,
             ibid.
             and
             p.
             174.
             
             Of
             the
             Churches
             ,
             and
             in
             particular
             of
             the
             
               Rotunda
               ,
               St.
               Mary
               Ma●giore
            
             ,
             and
             
               St.
               Iohn
            
             in
             the
             Lateran
             .
             Of
             the
             many
             ancient
             
               Monuments
               ,
               Pillars
               ,
               Statues
            
             ,
             &c.
             at
             
               Rome
               ,
               p.
            
             174
             ,
             175
             ,
             176.
             
             Of
             the
             
               Modern
               Palaces
            
             ,
             and
             the
             
               Statues
               ,
               Paintings
               ,
               Heads
            
             in
             the
             
               Farnesian
               Palace
            
             .
             Of
             the
             Minerva
             ,
             where
             the
             Inquisition
             sitteth
             ;
             and
             of
             the
             little
             hazard
             persons
             are
             in
             at
             Rome
             ,
             whatsoever
             their
             Religion
             be
             ,
             if
             they
             conduct
             themselves
             with
             any
             Discretion
             .
             
               Old-corn't
               Picture
            
             (
             who
             was
             convicted
             of
             the
             Gunpowder
             Treason
             )
             among
             the
             Martyrs
             in
             the
             Gallery
             of
             the
             
               English
               Iesuites
            
             .
             Of
             the
             Authors
             seeing
             the
             Emblematical
             Prophecies
             relating
             to
             England
             ,
             which
             those
             Iesuites
             have
             .
             Of
             Gregory's
             Chappel
             ,
             and
             the
             Worship
             payd
             to
             his
             
               Statue
               ,
               p.
            
             176
             ,
             177
             ,
             178.
             
             A
             Character
             of
             the
             young
             Prince
             
               Borghese
               ,
               ibid.
            
             A
             strange
             alteration
             of
             Sex
             in
             two
             Nuns
             .
             A
             youg
             Gentlewoman
             at
             Geneva
             ,
             that
             contracted
             a
             Deafness
             from
             a
             Viciou●ness
             in
             the
             Nurses
             Milk
             ;
             and
             who
             ,
             tho
             being
             deaf
             ,
             understands
             what
             is
             spoken
             to
             her
             ,
             by
             observing
             the
             motion
             of
             their
             Mouthes
             that
             speak
             ,
             p.
             179
             ,
             180
             ,
             181.
             
             How
             all
             the
             World
             mistrusts
             the
             Iesuites
             ,
             and
             yet
             trusts
             them
             .
             A
             pleasant
             Story
             of
             a
             Catholick
             Gentleman
             's
             chusing
             the
             most
             ignorant
             Priest
             he
             could
             find
             for
             his
             Confessor
             ,
             and
             why
             ,
             p.
             181
             ,
             182.
             
          
        
         
           
           
             The
             Fifth
             LETTER
             .
             From
             Nimmegen
             .
          
           
             OF
             Marseilles
             .
             The
             Conveniency
             of
             the
             Harbour
             .
             The
             Wealth
             of
             the
             Town
             ,
             through
             the
             Freedoms
             that
             it
             enjoyes
             ,
             p.
             184.
             
             Of
             the
             present
             Persecution
             in
             France
             ,
             and
             how
             approved
             and
             commended
             by
             the
             Clergy
             ;
             Represented
             at
             Rome
             ,
             by
             the
             Spanish
             Faction
             ,
             as
             a
             reproach
             to
             the
             
               Catholick
               Religion
            
             ;
             but
             applauded
             by
             the
             
               Pope
               ,
               p.
            
             185
             ,
             186.
             
             The
             fault
             not
             so
             much
             in
             the
             King
             ,
             as
             in
             his
             Religion
             ▪
             which
             obligeth
             him
             to
             extirpate
             Hereticks
             ,
             and
             not
             to
             keep
             his
             Faith
             to
             them
             .
             The
             Forcing
             poor
             People
             by
             extremities
             to
             abjure
             their
             Religion
             ,
             a
             greater
             cruelty
             ,
             than
             if
             he
             should
             put
             them
             to
             Death
             for
             it
             ,
             p.
             186
             ,
             187.
             
             The
             Liberty
             the
             Author
             obtained
             at
             Geneva
             ,
             of
             preaching
             to
             ●
             Congregation
             in
             English
             ,
             and
             of
             administring
             the
             Sacrament
             according
             to
             the
             way
             of
             the
             Churc●
             of
             
               England
               ,
               p.
            
             187
             ,
             188.
             
             A
             Character
             of
             Mr
             ▪
             Turretin
             ,
             and
             Mr.
             Tronchin
             ,
             two
             of
             their
             Professors
             ,
             p.
             188
             ,
             189.
             
             Some
             Monuments
             ,
             which
             the
             Author
             saw
             at
             Avanche
             .
             The
             Chappel
             nea●
             Morat
             silled
             with
             Bones
             of
             the
             Burgundians
             with
             an
             Inscription
             ,
             that
             
               Charles
               Duke
            
             of
             Burgundy
             ,
             having
             besieged
             
               Morat
               ,
               hoc
               sui
               Monumentum
               reliquit
               ,
               p.
            
             189
             ,
             190.
             
             Of
             Basil.
             Th●
             Town
             described
             .
             How
             it
             comes
             to
             be
             so
             ill
             peopled
             ,
             
             and
             in
             what
             manner
             Governed
             .
             A
             remarkable
             Piece
             of
             painting
             in
             the
             State-House
             .
             Several
             Pieces
             of
             Holben's
             there
             ,
             and
             in
             other
             places
             of
             the
             Town
             .
             A
             new
             sort
             of
             Wind-Guns
             made
             by
             one
             in
             Basil.
             Of
             the
             publick
             Library
             ,
             and
             how
             furnished
             with
             Books
             ,
             Manuscripts
             ,
             Medalls
             ;
             and
             of
             a
             private
             Library
             belonging
             to
             the
             Family
             of
             Fesch
             .
             Of
             the
             Councils
             of
             the
             Town
             ,
             and
             of
             the
             several
             Bailiages
             under
             their
             Jurisdiction
             .
             The
             proportion
             of
             Armed
             Men
             they
             can
             raise
             .
             The
             number
             of
             their
             Professors
             p.
             190
             ,
             to
             195.
             
             Of
             Hunningen
             .
             The
             Largeness
             ,
             Figure
             and
             Quality
             of
             that
             
               Fortification
               ,
               p.
            
             195
             ,
             196.
             
             Of
             Brisac
             ,
             and
             the
             Fortification
             belonging
             to
             it
             ,
             with
             its
             Figure
             ,
             greatness
             ,
             and
             streng●h
             ,
             p.
             196
             ,
             197.
             
             Of
             Strasburg
             .
             The
             Town
             ,
             with
             its
             old
             and
             new
             Fortifications
             described
             .
             The
             Animosity
             of
             the
             Lutherans
             against
             the
             Calvinists
             ,
             as
             well
             as
             against
             the
             Papists
             .
             Tho
             they
             have
             Pictures
             in
             their
             Churches
             ,
             yet
             they
             Worship
             them
             not
             ,
             p.
             197
             ,
             198.
             
             By
             what
             means
             the
             City
             fell
             into
             the
             hands
             of
             the
             French.
             The
             Decay
             it
             already
             suffers
             in
             Trade
             ,
             with
             an
             account
             of
             the
             Treatment
             of
             
               Mr.
               Dietrick
            
             by
             the
             French
             ,
             contrary
             to
             the
             Terms
             of
             the
             Capitulation
             ,
             p.
             199
             Of
             Philipsburg
             ;
             its
             Natural
             Scituation
             ,
             and
             Artificial
             strength
             ,
             and
             how
             recovered
             from
             the
             
               French
               ,
               p
            
             200
             ,
             201.
             
             Of
             Spire
             ,
             which
             as
             it
             is
             an
             ill
             Fortified
             ,
             so
             it
             is
             a
             poor
             Town
             ,
             and
             subsisteth
             chiefly
             by
             the
             
               Imperial
               Chamber
            
             that
             sitteth
             in
             it
             .
             A
             late
             Dispute
             between
             
             the
             Town
             and
             Chamber
             concerning
             Priviledges
             .
             The
             Government
             of
             the
             Town
             is
             wholly
             Lutheran
             ,
             only
             the
             Cathedral
             is
             in
             the
             hands
             of
             the
             Bishop
             and
             Chapter
             .
             The
             meanness
             of
             the
             Tombs
             of
             the
             Emperors
             ,
             that
             lye
             buried
             there
             .
             A
             Fable
             concerning
             
               St.
               Bernard
            
             ,
             with
             some
             marks
             relating
             to
             it
             ,
             on
             the
             pavement
             of
             the
             Church
             ,
             and
             an
             account
             of
             some
             Figures
             in
             the
             Cloister
             ,
             p.
             201
             ,
             202.
             
             Of
             the
             Lower
             Palatinate
             ,
             and
             of
             Heidelberg
             .
             Of
             the
             Scituation
             of
             the
             Town
             .
             The
             Wine-Cellar
             ,
             with
             the
             Celebrated
             Tun
             that
             is
             in
             it
             .
             The
             Wisdom
             and
             Conduct
             of
             the
             late
             Prince
             Charles
             ,
             in
             peopling
             and
             setling
             this
             State.
             The
             nature
             and
             proportion
             of
             the
             Taxes
             he
             laid
             upon
             the
             Subjects
             ,
             and
             their
             contentment
             under
             them
             .
             The
             People
             of
             Germany
             only
             bound
             to
             their
             particular
             Prince
             ,
             tho
             the
             Prince
             himself
             be
             under
             some
             Ties
             to
             the
             Pareus's
             Commentary
             on
             the
             13.
             of
             the
             Romans
             ,
             vindicated
             upon
             this
             Foundation
             by
             Fabritius
             .
             A
             Character
             of
             Him
             ,
             and
             
               Dr.
               Miek
               ,
               p.
            
             203
             ,
             204.
             
             Of
             Manheim
             .
             The
             care
             Prince
             
               Charles
               Lewes
            
             took
             to
             fortify
             it
             .
             His
             granting
             Liberty
             ,
             not
             only
             to
             Christians
             of
             all
             parties
             ,
             but
             also
             to
             the
             Iews
             ,
             and
             thereby
             peopling
             his
             Countrey
             ,
             which
             had
             been
             strangely
             desolated
             .
             His
             Character
             ,
             p.
             204.
             
             Of
             the
             present
             Prince
             .
             His
             Probity
             ,
             Vertues
             and
             Stedfastness
             to
             the
             promises
             he
             made
             his
             Subjects
             ,
             with
             relation
             to
             their
             Religion
             ,
             p.
             205.
             
             The
             Beauty
             and
             Fertility
             of
             the
             Country
             ,
             from
             Heidelberg
             to
             Frankfort
             .
             The
             latter
             described
             .
             The
             three
             Religions
             tolerated
             there
             .
             The
             Original
             
             of
             the
             
               Bulla
               Aurea
            
             preserved
             among
             the
             Archives
             of
             that
             City
             .
             Lewd
             Women
             condemned
             here
             to
             the
             Pistrina
             or
             hand-mill
             .
             The
             Iews
             permitted
             to
             dwell
             there
             ,
             and
             to
             have
             Synagogues
             .
             An
             account
             of
             the
             Fortification
             of
             the
             Town
             ,
             and
             its
             Wealth
             ,
             p.
             206
             ,
             207.
             
             Of
             Hockam
             ,
             that
             yields
             the
             celebrated
             Wine
             .
             A
             famous
             Picture
             over
             one
             of
             the
             Popish
             Altars
             at
             Worms
             ,
             as
             the
             Author
             was
             told
             ,
             but
             did
             not
             see
             either
             it
             ,
             or
             the
             Town
             ,
             by
             reason
             of
             having
             taken
             another
             road
             ,
             p.
             287
             ,
             288.
             
             Of
             Mentz
             ;
             Its
             Scituation
             ,
             Compass
             ,
             Cittadel
             ,
             and
             Fortification
             of
             the
             Town
             .
             The
             Elector
             an
             absolute
             Prince
             .
             The
             Demeasne
             of
             the
             Electorat
             ,
             and
             what
             Taxes
             he
             imposeth
             on
             his
             Subjects
             ,
             with
             the
             number
             of
             Armed
             men
             he
             can
             bring
             into
             the
             Field
             .
             How
             He
             and
             his
             Chapter
             chuse
             the
             Prebends
             by
             turns
             ,
             and
             in
             whom
             the
             right
             of
             chusing
             the
             Elector
             resides
             ,
             p.
             209.
             
             Of
             Bacharach
             ,
             and
             of
             the
             Tower
             ,
             where
             the
             Rats
             are
             said
             to
             have
             eaten
             up
             an
             Elector
             .
             A
             Labourer
             at
             Geneva
             stung
             to
             death
             by
             Wasps
             ,
             ibid.
             Of
             Coblentz
             ;
             its
             Scituation
             ,
             Strength
             ,
             and
             Fort
             stiled
             
               Hermanstan
               ,
               p.
            
             209
             ,
             210
             ,
             211.
             
             Of
             Bonne
             ,
             where
             the
             Elector
             of
             Collen
             resides
             .
             A
             Character
             of
             the
             present
             Elector
             .
             A
             Story
             about
             the
             Forgery
             of
             Medalls
             ,
             and
             to
             what
             value
             there
             were
             found
             of
             them
             at
             the
             last
             siege
             of
             Bonne
             .
             Of
             some
             Rarities
             belonging
             to
             the
             
               Prince
               ,
               p.
            
             211
             ,
             212.
             
             Of
             Collen
             ;
             tho
             a
             City
             of
             great
             extent
             ,
             yet
             ill
             built
             ,
             and
             worse
             peopled
             .
             The
             Iews
             are
             allowed
             here
             to
             live
             ;
             and
             in
             what
             place
             the
             Protestants
             are
             permitted
             the
             
             exercise
             of
             their
             Religion
             .
             The
             Churches
             and
             Convents
             ,
             with
             an
             account
             of
             the
             Fable
             of
             the
             
               three
               Kings
            
             ,
             and
             11000
             Vrsulins
             .
             Of
             the
             late
             Reb●llion
             there
             ,
             and
             how
             occasioned
             ,
             with
             the
             excesses
             that
             attended
             it
             ,
             p.
             213
             ,
             214.
             
             Of
             Dusseldorp
             .
             The
             Palace
             ;
             The
             
               Iesuites
               Colledge
            
             ;
             The
             
               Protestant
               Religion
            
             tolerated
             there
             ,
             and
             by
             whose
             procurement
             ,
             p.
             214.
             
             Of
             Keiserswart
             ,
             and
             how
             fortified
             .
             Of
             Wesel
             ;
             A
             fair
             Town
             ,
             meanly
             fortified
             ,
             but
             populous
             and
             rich
             ,
             p.
             214
             ,
             215.
             
             Of
             
               Cleve
               ,
               ibid.
            
             Of
             Nimmegen
             .
             A
             Character
             of
             
               Sr.
               William
               Temple
            
             ,
             whose
             Picture
             hangs
             in
             the
             Stadthouse
             ,
             with
             an
             ample
             commendation
             of
             his
             Book
             of
             the
             
               Low
               Countries
               ,
               p.
            
             215.
             
             A
             large
             and
             just
             Character
             of
             the
             present
             
               Prince
               of
               Orange
            
             ,
             and
             of
             the
             glorious
             service
             he
             performed
             ,
             in
             rescuing
             his
             Country
             from
             the
             
               French
               p.
            
             216.
             
          
        
         
           
             An
             Appendix
             ,
             containing
             Remarks
             of
             an
             Italian
             Gentleman
             ,
             upon
             Switzerland
             ,
             the
             Grison
             Country
             ,
             the
             Bailiage
             of
             Lugane
             ,
             the
             Lakes
             the
             Dutchey
             of
             Ferrara
             ,
             the
             Estate
             of
             Bolognia
             the
             Country
             of
             the
             Great
             Duke
             of
             Tuscany
             ,
             the
             temporal
             Government
             of
             the
             Pope
             ,
             and
             the
             Reduction
             of
             the
             Interest
             due
             by
             the
             Montes
             a●
             Rome
             ,
             and
             of
             the
             Avarice
             of
             the
             Iesuits
             and
             
               Priests
               p.
            
             222
             ,
             &c.
             
          
        
      
    
     
       
         
         SOME
         LETTERS
         ,
         Containing
         An
         account
         of
         what
         seemed
         most
         remarkable
         in
         
           Switzerland
           ,
           Italy
           ,
           &c.
           Zurich
           ,
        
      
       
         
           the
           first
           of
           
             September
             ,
             1685.
             
          
        
         
           
             SIR
             ,
          
        
         
           IT
           is
           so
           common
           to
           write
           Travels
           ,
           that
           for
           one
           ,
           who
           has
           seen
           so
           little
           ,
           and
           as
           it
           were
           in
           haste
           ,
           it
           may
           look
           like
           a
           presumptuous
           affection
           to
           be
           reckoned
           among
           Voyagers
           ,
           if
           he
           attempts
           to
           say
           any
           thing
           upon
           so
           short
           a
           ●amble
           ,
           and
           concerning
           Places
           so
           much
           visited
           ,
           and
           by
           consequence
           so
           well
           known
           :
           yet
           having
           had
           opportuni●ies
           that
           do
           not
           offer
           themselves
           to
           all
           that
           travel
           ,
           and
           having
           joyned
           to
           those
           ,
           a
           curiosity
           almost
           equal
           to
           the
           advantages
           I
           enjoyed
           ,
           I
           fancy
           it
           will
           not
           be
           an
           ungrateful
           entertainment
           ,
           if
           I
           give
           you
           some
           account
           of
           those
           things
           ●hat
           pleased
           me
           most
           in
           the
           places
           through
           which
           I
           have
           passed
           :
           But
           I
           will
           avoid
           saying
           such
           things
           as
           occur
           in
           ordinary
           Books
           ,
           for
           which
           I
           refer
           you
           to
           the
           Prints
           ;
           for
           as
           you
           know
           ,
           that
           I
           have
           no
           great
           inclination
           to
           copy
           what
           others
           have
           said
           ,
           so
           a
           traveller
           has
           not
           leisure
           ,
           nor
           humour
           enough
           ,
           for
           so
           dull
           an
           employment
           .
        
         
           As
           I
           came
           all
           the
           way
           from
           Paris
           to
           Lions
           ,
           I
           was
           amased
           to
           see
           so
           much
           misery
           as
           appeared
           ,
           not
           only
           in
           Villages
           ,
           but
           even
           in
           big
           Towns
           ,
           where
           all
           the
           marks
           of
           an
           
           extream
           poverty
           showed
           themselves
           both
           in
           the
           Buildings
           ,
           the
           Cloaths
           ,
           and
           almost
           in
           the
           looks
           of
           the
           Inhabitants
           .
           And
           a
           general
           dispeopling
           in
           all
           the
           Towns
           ,
           was
           a
           very
           visible
           effect
           of
           the
           hardships
           under
           which
           they
           lay
           .
        
         
           I
           need
           tell
           you
           nothing
           of
           the
           irregular
           ,
           and
           yet
           magnificent
           situation
           of
           Lions
           ;
           of
           the
           noble
           Rivers
           that
           meet
           there
           ;
           of
           the
           Rock
           Cut
           from
           so
           vast
           a
           height
           for
           a
           prison
           ,
           of
           the
           Carthusians
           Gardens
           ,
           of
           the
           Town-house
           ,
           of
           the
           Iesuites
           Colledge
           ,
           and
           Library
           of
           the
           famous
           
             Nunnery
             of
             S.
             Peter
          
           ,
           of
           the
           Churches
           ,
           particularly
           
             S.
             Irenees
          
           ,
           of
           the
           remnants
           of
           the
           Aqueducts
           ,
           of
           the
           Colums
           and
           the
           old
           Mosaick
           in
           the
           
             Abbey
             Dene
          
           .
           In
           short
           ,
           
             Mr.
             Spon
          
           has
           given
           such
           an
           account
           of
           the
           Curiosities
           there
           ,
           that
           it
           were
           a
           very
           presumptious
           attempt
           to
           offer
           to
           come
           after
           him
           .
        
         
           The
           
             speech
             of
             Claudius
          
           ingraven
           on
           a
           
             Plate
             of
             Brass
          
           ,
           and
           set
           in
           the
           end
           of
           the
           low
           walk
           in
           the
           Town-hsuse
           ,
           is
           one
           of
           the
           noblest
           Antiquities
           in
           the
           World
           ,
           by
           which
           we
           see
           the
           way
           of
           writing
           and
           pointing
           in
           that
           age
           very
           copiously
           .
           The
           
             shield
             of
             silver
          
           of
           22
           pound
           weight
           ,
           in
           which
           some
           remains
           of
           gilding
           do
           yet
           appear
           ,
           and
           that
           seems
           to
           represent
           that
           generous
           action
           of
           Scipio's
           ,
           of
           restoring
           a
           fair
           captive
           to
           a
           
             Celtiberian
             Prince
          
           ,
           is
           certainly
           the
           noblest
           piece
           of
           Plate
           that
           is
           now
           extant
           ;
           the
           embossing
           of
           it
           is
           so
           fine
           ,
           and
           so
           entire
           ,
           that
           it
           is
           indeed
           i●valuable
           :
           and
           if
           there
           were
           an
           inscription
           upon
           it
           to
           put
           us
           beyond
           conjecture
           ,
           it
           were
           yet
           much
           more
           inestimable
           .
        
         
           A
           great
           many
           Inscriptions
           are
           to
           be
           seen
           of
           the
           late
           and
           Barbarous
           ages
           ,
           as
           
             Bonum
             Memorium
          
           ,
           and
           
             Epitaphium
             hunc
          
           :
           there
           are
           23.
           
           Inscriptions
           in
           the
           Garden
           of
           the
           
             Fathers
             of
             mercy
          
           ,
           but
           so
           placed
           ,
           as
           it
           shews
           how
           little
           those
           who
           possess
           them
           do
           either
           understand
           or
           value
           them
           .
           I
           shall
           only
           give
           you
           one
           ,
           because
           I
           made
           a
           little
           reflection
           on
           it
           ,
           tho
           it
           is
           not
           perhaps
           too
           well
           grounded
           ,
           because
           none
           of
           the
           Criticks
           have
           thought
           on
           it
           .
        
         
           The
           Inscription
           is
           this
           ,
           
             D.
             M.
             Et
             Memoriae
             Aeternae
             Sutiae
             A●thidis
             .
             Quae
             vixit
             Annis
             XXV
             .
             M.
             X●
             .
             DV
             .
             Quae
             dum
             Nimia
             pia
             fuit
             ,
             facta
             est
             Im●ia
             :
             &
             Att●●
             Probatiolo
             ,
             Ce●alius
             Calistio
             Conjux
             &
             Pater
             ,
             &
             si●●vivo
             
             ponendum
             curavit
             &
             sub
             ascia
             dedicavit
             .
          
           This
           must
           be
           towards
           the
           barbarous
           Age
           ,
           as
           appears
           by
           the
           false
           Latin
           in
           Nimia
           :
           But
           the
           Inscription
           seems
           so
           extravagant
           ,
           that
           a
           man
           dedicating
           a
           Burial-stone
           for
           this
           Wife
           and
           Son
           ,
           and
           under
           which
           himself
           was
           to
           be
           laid
           ,
           with
           ceremonies
           of
           Religion
           ,
           should
           tax
           his
           Wife
           of
           impiety
           ,
           and
           give
           so
           extraordinary
           an
           Account
           of
           her
           becoming
           so
           thro
           an
           excess
           of
           piety
           ,
           that
           it
           deserves
           some
           consideration
           .
        
         
           It
           seems
           the
           impiety
           was
           publick
           ,
           otherwise
           a
           Husband
           would
           not
           have
           recorded
           it
           in
           such
           a
           manner
           ;
           and
           it
           is
           plain
           that
           he
           thought
           it
           rose
           from
           an
           excess
           of
           piety
           .
        
         
           I
           need
           not
           examin
           the
           conjectures
           of
           others
           :
           but
           will
           chuse
           rather
           to
           give
           you
           my
           own
           ,
           and
           submit
           it
           to
           your
           censure
           .
        
         
           It
           seems
           to
           me
           ,
           that
           this
           
             Sutia
             Anthis
          
           was
           a
           Christian
           ▪
           for
           the
           Christians
           ,
           because
           they
           would
           not
           worship
           the
           Gods
           of
           the
           Heathens
           ,
           nor
           participate
           with
           them
           in
           their
           sacred
           rites
           ,
           were
           accused
           both
           of
           A●heism
           and
           Impiety
           .
           This
           is
           so
           often
           objected
           ,
           and
           the
           Fathers
           in
           their
           Apologies
           have
           answered
           it
           so
           often
           ,
           that
           it
           were
           lost
           labour
           to
           prove
           it
           :
           so
           this
           Wife
           of
           
             Cecalius
             Calistio
          
           having
           turned
           Christian
           ,
           it
           seems
           he
           thought
           he
           was
           bound
           to
           take
           some
           notice
           of
           it
           in
           the
           inscription
           :
           But
           by
           it
           the
           gives
           a
           honourable
           character
           of
           the
           
             Christian
             Doctrine
          
           at
           the
           fame
           time
           that
           he
           seems
           to
           accuse
           it
           ;
           that
           through
           an
           excess
           of
           piety
           ,
           his
           Wife
           was
           carried
           to
           it
           :
           since
           a
           mind
           seriously
           possessed
           with
           a
           true
           sense
           of
           piety
           ,
           could
           no●
           avoid
           the
           falling
           under
           a
           distaste
           of
           Paganism
           ,
           and
           the
           becoming
           Christian.
           
        
         
           At
           Grenoble
           there
           is
           not
           much
           to
           be
           seen
           ,
           the
           learned
           
             Mr.
             Chorier
          
           has
           some
           Manuscripts
           of
           considerable
           antiquity
           .
           In
           one
           of
           
             Vi●etius
             de
             re
             Militari
          
           ,
           there
           is
           a
           clear
           correction
           of
           a
           passage
           that
           in
           all
           the
           printed
           Editions
           is
           not
           sense
           .
           In
           the
           Chapter
           of
           the
           sise
           of
           the
           Souldiers
           he
           begins
           ,
           
             Scio
             semper
             mensuram
             a
             Mario
             Consule
             exactam
             :
             A
          
           is
           in
           no
           
             M
             S.
          
           and
           
             Mario
             Consule
          
           is
           a
           mistake
           for
           
             trium
             Cubitorum
          
           ;
           for
           III.
           which
           are
           for
           trium
           ,
           have
           been
           read
           M.
           and
           
           C.
           which
           stands
           for
           Cubitorum
           ,
           as
           appears
           by
           all
           that
           follows
           ,
           was
           by
           a
           mistake
           read
           Consule
           ;
           so
           the
           true
           reading
           of
           that
           passage
           is
           :
           
             Scio
             mensuram
             trium
             Cubitorum
             fuisse
             semper
             exactam
             .
          
           He
           shewed
           me
           another
           
             M.
             S.
          
           of
           about
           5
           ●r
           6.
           hundred
           years
           old
           ,
           in
           which
           
             S.
             Iohn's
             Revelation
          
           is
           contained
           ,
           all
           exemplified
           in
           Figures
           ,
           and
           after
           that
           comes
           
             Esops
             Fables
          
           likewise
           ,
           all
           designed
           in
           Figures
           ;
           from
           which
           he
           inferred
           ,
           that
           those
           who
           designed
           those
           two
           Books
           ,
           valued
           both
           equally
           ,
           and
           so
           put
           them
           together
           .
        
         
           I
           will
           not
           describe
           the
           
             Valley
             of
             Dauphine
          
           ,
           all
           to
           Chambery
           ,
           nor
           entertain
           you
           with
           a
           Landskip
           of
           the
           Countrey
           ,
           which
           deserves
           a
           better
           pencil
           than
           mine
           ,
           and
           in
           which
           the
           heighth
           and
           rudeness
           of
           the
           Mountains
           ,
           that
           almost
           shut
           upon
           it
           ,
           together
           with
           the
           beauty
           ,
           the
           evenness
           and
           fruitfulness
           of
           the
           Valley
           ,
           that
           is
           all
           along
           well
           watered
           with
           the
           River
           of
           Liserre
           ,
           make
           such
           an
           agreeable
           mixture
           ,
           that
           this
           vast
           diversity
           of
           objects
           ,
           that
           do
           at
           once
           fill
           the
           Eye
           ,
           gives
           it
           a
           very
           entertaining
           prospect
           .
        
         
           Chambery
           has
           nothing
           in
           it
           that
           deserves
           a
           long
           description
           ;
           and
           Geneva
           is
           too
           well
           known
           to
           be
           much
           insisted
           on
           .
           It
           is
           a
           little
           State
           ,
           but
           it
           has
           so
           many
           good
           Constitutions
           in
           it
           ,
           that
           the
           greatest
           may
           justly
           learn
           at
           it
           .
           The
           
             Chamber
             of
             the
             Corn
          
           has
           always
           
             two
             years
          
           provision
           for
           the
           City
           in
           store
           ,
           and
           forces
           none
           but
           the
           Bakers
           to
           buy
           of
           it
           at
           a
           taxed
           price
           ;
           and
           so
           it
           is
           both
           necessary
           for
           any
           extremities
           ,
           under
           which
           the
           State
           may
           fall
           ,
           and
           is
           likewise
           of
           great
           advantage
           ;
           for
           it
           gives
           a
           good
           yearly
           income
           ,
           that
           has
           helpt
           the
           State
           to
           pay
           near
           a
           Million
           of
           debt
           ,
           contracted
           during
           the
           Wars
           ;
           and
           the
           Citizens
           are
           not
           oppressed
           by
           it
           ,
           for
           every
           Inhabitant
           may
           buy
           his
           own
           Corn
           as
           he
           pleases
           ,
           only
           publick
           Houses
           must
           buy
           from
           the
           Chamber
           .
           And
           if
           one
           will
           compare
           the
           Faith
           of
           Rome
           and
           Geneva
           togethe●
           by
           this
           particular
           ,
           he
           will
           be
           forced
           to
           prefer
           the
           latter
           ;
           for
           if
           
             good
             Works
          
           are
           a
           strong
           presumption
           ,
           if
           not
           a
           sure
           indication
           of
           a
           good
           Faith
           ,
           then
           Iustice
           ,
           being
           a
           good
           Wor●
           of
           the
           first
           form
           ,
           Geneva
           will
           certainly
           carry
           it
           .
        
         
           At
           Rome
           the
           Pope
           buys
           in
           all
           the
           Corn
           of
           the
           Patrimony
           ;
           for
           none
           of
           the
           Landlords
           can
           sell
           it
           either
           to
           Merchants
           o●
           
           Bakers
           .
           He
           buyes
           it
           at
           five
           Crowns
           their
           measure
           ,
           and
           even
           that
           is
           slowly
           and
           ill
           payed
           ,
           so
           that
           there
           was
           800000.
           
           Crowns
           owing
           upon
           that
           score
           ,
           when
           I
           was
           at
           Rome
           .
           In
           selling
           this
           out
           ,
           the
           measure
           is
           lessened
           a
           
             fifth
             part
          
           ,
           and
           the
           price
           of
           the
           whole
           is
           doubled
           ,
           so
           that
           what
           was
           bought
           at
           
             five
             Crowns
          
           is
           sold
           out
           at
           twelve
           :
           and
           if
           the
           Bakers
           ,
           who
           are
           obliged
           to
           take
           a
           determined
           quantity
           of
           Corn
           from
           the
           Chamber
           ,
           cannot
           retail
           out
           all
           that
           is
           imposed
           upon
           them
           ,
           but
           are
           forced
           to
           return
           some
           part
           of
           it
           back
           ,
           the
           Chamber
           discounts
           to
           them
           only
           the
           first
           price
           of
           
             five
             Crowns
          
           :
           whereas
           in
           Geneva
           the
           measure
           by
           which
           they
           buy
           and
           sell
           is
           the
           same
           ,
           and
           the
           gain
           is
           so
           inconsiderable
           ,
           that
           it
           is
           very
           little
           beyond
           the
           common
           ma●ket
           price
           ;
           so
           that
           upon
           the
           whole
           matter
           ,
           the
           
             Chamb●r
             of
             the
             Corn
          
           is
           but
           the
           
             Merchant
             to
             the
             State.
          
           But
           if
           the
           publi●k
           makes
           a
           moderate
           gain
           by
           the
           Corn
           ,
           that
           ,
           and
           all
           the
           other
           revenues
           of
           this
           small
           Commonwealth
           are
           so
           well
           imployed
           ,
           that
           there
           is
           no
           cause
           of
           complaint
           given
           in
           the
           administration
           of
           the
           publick
           purse
           :
           which
           with
           the
           advantages
           that
           arise
           out
           of
           the
           
             Chamber
             of
             the
             Corn
          
           ,
           is
           about
           100000
           Crowns
           revenue
           .
           But
           there
           is
           much
           to
           go
           out
           of
           this
           ;
           300.
           
           Souldiers
           are
           payed
           ;
           an
           Arsénal
           is
           maintained
           ,
           that
           in
           propo●tion
           to
           the
           State
           is
           the
           greatest
           in
           the
           World
           ;
           for
           it
           contains
           Arms
           for
           more
           Men
           than
           are
           in
           the
           State
           :
           thére
           is
           a
           great
           number
           of
           Ministers
           and
           Prof●ss●rs
           ,
           in
           all
           24.
           payed
           out
           of
           it
           ,
           besides
           all
           the
           publick
           charges
           and
           Offices
           of
           the
           Government
           .
           Every
           one
           of
           the
           lesser
           Council
           of
           25.
           having
           a
           100.
           
           Crowns
           ,
           and
           every
           Syndic
           having
           200.
           
           Crowns
           pension
           :
           and
           after
           all
           this
           come
           the
           accidental
           Charges
           of
           the
           Deputies
           ,
           that
           they
           are
           obliged
           to
           send
           often
           to
           Paris
           ,
           to
           Savoy
           and
           to
           Switzerland
           ;
           so
           that
           it
           is
           very
           apparent
           no
           man
           can
           enrich
           himself
           at
           the
           cost
           of
           the
           Publick
           .
           And
           the
           appointments
           of
           the
           
             little
             Council
          
           are
           a
           very
           small
           recompence
           for
           the
           great
           attendance
           that
           they
           are
           obliged
           to
           give
           the
           Publick
           ,
           which
           is
           commonly
           4.
           or
           5.
           hours
           a
           day
           .
           The
           Salary
           for
           the
           Professors
           and
           Ministers
           is
           indeed
           small
           ,
           not
           above
           200.
           
           Crowns
           ;
           but
           to
           ballance
           this
           (
           which
           was
           a
           more
           competent
           
           provision
           when
           it
           was
           first
           set
           off
           150.
           years
           ago
           ▪
           the
           price
           of
           all
           things
           ,
           and
           the
           way
           of
           living
           being
           now
           much
           heightned
           )
           those
           imployments
           are
           here
           held
           in
           their
           due
           reputation
           ,
           and
           the
           richest
           Citizens
           in
           the
           Town
           ,
           breed
           up
           their
           Children
           so
           ,
           as
           to
           qualifie
           them
           for
           those
           places
           .
           And
           a
           Minister
           that
           is
           suteable
           to
           his
           character
           ,
           is
           thought
           so
           good
           a
           match
           ,
           that
           generally
           they
           have
           such
           Estates
           either
           by
           succession
           ,
           or
           marriage
           ,
           as
           support
           them
           suteably
           to
           the
           rank
           they
           hold
           .
           And
           in
           Geneva
           there
           is
           so
           great
           a
           regulation
           upon
           expences
           of
           all
           sorts
           ,
           that
           a
           small
           sum
           goes
           a
           great
           way
           .
           It
           is
           a
           surprising
           thing
           to
           fee
           so
           much
           learning
           as
           one
           finds
           in
           Geneva
           ,
           not
           only
           among
           those
           whose
           profession
           obliges
           them
           to
           study
           ,
           but
           among
           the
           Magistrates
           and
           Citizens
           ;
           an●
           if
           there
           are
           not
           many
           men
           of
           the
           first
           form
           of
           learning
           among
           them
           ,
           yet
           every
           body
           almost
           here
           has
           a
           good
           tincture
           of
           a
           learned
           education
           ,
           in
           so
           much
           ,
           that
           they
           are
           masters
           of
           the
           Latin
           ,
           they
           know
           the
           Controversies
           of
           Religion
           ,
           and
           History
           ,
           and
           they
           are
           generally
           men
           of
           good
           sense
           .
        
         
           There
           is
           an
           universal
           Civility
           ,
           not
           only
           towards
           Strangers
           ,
           but
           towards
           one
           another
           ,
           that
           reigns
           all
           the
           Town
           over
           ,
           and
           leans
           to
           an
           excess
           :
           so
           that
           in
           them
           one
           sees
           a
           mixture
           of
           a
           French
           openness
           ,
           and
           an
           Italian
           exactness
           :
           there
           is
           indeed
           a
           little
           too
           much
           of
           the
           last
           .
        
         
           The
           publick
           Iusti●e
           of
           the
           City
           is
           quick
           and
           good
           ,
           and
           is
           more
           commended
           than
           the
           private
           Iustice
           of
           those
           that
           deal
           in
           trade
           :
           a
           want
           of
           sincerity
           is
           much
           lamented
           by
           those
           that
           know
           the
           Town
           well
           .
           There
           is
           no
           publi●k
           leudness
           tolerated
           ,
           and
           the
           disorders
           of
           that
           sort
           are
           managed
           with
           great
           address
           .
           And
           notwithstanding
           their
           neighbourhood
           to
           the
           
             Switzers
             ,
             drinking
          
           is
           very
           little
           known
           among
           them
           .
           One
           of
           the
           best
           parts
           of
           their
           La●
           is
           the
           way
           of
           selling
           Estates
           ,
           which
           is
           likewise
           practised
           in
           Switzerland
           ,
           and
           is
           called
           Subhastation
           ,
           from
           the
           Roman
           custum
           of
           selling
           
             Sub
             hasta
          
           .
           A
           man
           that
           is
           to
           buy
           an
           Estate
           ,
           agrees
           with
           the
           owner
           ,
           and
           then
           intimates
           it
           to
           the
           Gover●ment
           ;
           who
           order
           three
           several
           proclamations
           to
           be
           made
           six
           Weeks
           one
           after
           another
           of
           the
           intended
           
           sale
           ,
           that
           is
           to
           be
           on
           such
           a
           day
           :
           when
           the
           day
           comes
           ,
           the
           Creditors
           of
           thé
           seller
           ,
           if
           they
           apprehend
           that
           the
           Estate
           is
           sold
           at
           an
           under
           value
           ,
           may
           out-bid
           the
           Buyer
           ;
           but
           if
           they
           do
           not
           interpose
           ,
           the
           Buyer
           delivers
           the
           money
           to
           the
           State
           ,
           which
           upon
           that
           ,
           gives
           him
           his
           ti●le
           to
           the
           Estate
           ,
           which
           can
           never
           be
           so
           much
           as
           brought
           under
           a
           debate
           in
           Law
           ;
           and
           the
           price
           is
           payed
           into
           the
           State
           ,
           and
           is
           by
           them
           given
           either
           to
           the
           Creditors
           of
           the
           Seller
           ,
           if
           he
           owes
           money
           ,
           or
           to
           the
           seller
           himself
           .
        
         
           This
           Custom
           prevails
           likewise
           in
           Swisse
           ,
           where
           also
           
             twelve
             years
          
           possession
           gives
           a
           prescription
           ;
           so
           that
           in
           no
           place
           of
           the
           World
           are
           the
           
             titles
             to
             Estates
          
           so
           secure
           as
           here
           .
           The
           constitution
           of
           the
           Government
           is
           the
           same
           both
           in
           Geneva
           ,
           and
           in
           most
           of
           ●he
           Cantons
           .
           The
           Soveraignty
           lies
           in
           the
           Council
           of
           200
           ▪
           and
           this
           Council
           chuses
           out
           of
           irs
           number
           25.
           who
           are
           the
           
             lesser
             Coun●il
          
           ;
           and
           the
           censure
           of
           the
           25.
           belong
           to
           the
           
             great
             Coun●il
          
           ,
           they
           are
           chosen
           by
           a
           sort
           of
           Ball●t
           ,
           so
           that
           it
           is
           not
           known
           for
           whom
           they
           give
           their
           votes
           ,
           which
           is
           an
           affectual
           method
           to
           suppress
           sactions
           and
           resentments
           ;
           since
           in
           a
           competit●on
           ,
           no
           man
           can
           know
           who
           voted
           for
           him
           or
           against
           him
           :
           yet
           the
           Election
           is
           not
           so
           carried
           ,
           but
           that
           the
           whole
           Town
           is
           in
           an
           intrigue
           concerning
           it
           :
           for
           since
           the
           being
           of
           the
           
             little
             Council
          
           leads
           one
           to
           the
           Sindicat
           ,
           which
           is
           the
           Chief
           honour
           of
           the
           State
           ;
           this
           dignity
           is
           courted
           here
           ,
           with
           as
           active
           and
           solicitous
           an
           ambition
           ,
           as
           appears
           elsewhere
           for
           greater
           matters
           .
           The
           200.
           are
           chosen
           and
           censured
           by
           the
           25.
           so
           that
           these
           two
           Councils
           ,
           which
           are
           both
           for
           life
           ,
           are
           checks
           one
           upon
           another
           .
           The
           Magistracy
           is
           in
           the
           one
           ,
           and
           the
           Soveraignty
           in
           the
           other
           .
           The
           number
           of
           25.
           is
           never
           exceeded
           in
           the
           
             lesser
             C●uncil
          
           ;
           but
           for
           the
           greater
           ,
           tho'
           it
           passes
           by
           the
           name
           of
           the
           Council
           of
           200.
           yet
           there
           are
           commonly
           8
           or
           10.
           more
           ,
           so
           that
           notwithstanding
           the
           absence
           or
           sickness
           of
           some
           of
           the
           number
           ,
           they
           may
           still
           be
           able
           to
           call
           together
           near
           the
           full
           number
           .
           There
           is
           another
           Council
           besides
           these
           two
           ,
           composed
           of
           60.
           consisting
           of
           those
           of
           the
           200.
           that
           have
           born
           Offic●s
           ,
           such
           as
           
             Auditors
             ,
             Attorn●y-Generals
          
           ,
           
           or
           those
           that
           have
           been
           in
           other
           imployments
           ,
           which
           are
           given
           for
           a
           determinate
           number
           of
           years
           :
           this
           Court
           has
           no
           Authority
           ,
           but
           is
           called
           together
           by
           the
           25
           ,
           when
           any
           extraordinary
           occasion
           makes
           it
           advisable
           for
           them
           to
           call
           for
           a
           more
           general
           concurrence
           ,
           in
           the
           Resolutions
           that
           they
           are
           about
           to
           form
           .
           And
           this
           Council
           is
           of
           the
           nature
           of
           a
           
             Council
             of
             State
          
           ,
           that
           only
           gives
           advice
           ,
           but
           has
           no
           power
           in
           it self
           to
           enforce
           its
           advice
           .
           The
           whole
           body
           of
           the
           Burgesses
           chuse
           the
           Syndics
           the
           first
           Sunday
           of
           the
           year
           ;
           and
           there
           are
           some
           other
           Elections
           that
           do
           likewise
           belong
           to
           them
           .
           The
           difference
           between
           the
           Burgesses
           and
           Citizens
           is
           ,
           that
           the
           former
           degree
           may
           be
           bought
           ,
           or
           given
           to
           Strangers
           ,
           and
           they
           are
           capable
           to
           be
           of
           the
           200
           ;
           but
           none
           is
           a
           Citizen
           but
           he
           that
           is
           the
           Son
           of
           a
           Burgess
           ,
           and
           that
           is
           born
           within
           the
           Town
           .
        
         
           I
           need
           say
           no
           more
           of
           the
           Constitution
           of
           this
           little
           Republick
           ,
           its
           chief
           support
           is
           in
           the
           firm
           Alliance
           that
           has
           stood
           now
           so
           long
           between
           it
           ,
           and
           the
           Cantons
           of
           Bern
           and
           Zurich
           ;
           and
           it
           is
           so
           visibly
           the
           interest
           of
           all
           Switzerland
           ,
           to
           preserve
           it
           ,
           as
           the
           Key
           ,
           by
           which
           it
           may
           be
           all
           laid
           open
           ,
           that
           if
           the
           Cantons
           had
           not
           forgotten
           their
           Interest
           so
           palpably
           ,
           in
           suffering
           the
           French
           to
           become
           Masters
           of
           the
           
             Franche
             Counte
          
           ,
           one
           would
           think
           that
           they
           would
           not
           be
           capable
           of
           suffering
           Geneva
           to
           be
           toucht
           :
           For
           all
           that
           can
           be
           done
           in
           fortifying
           the
           Town
           ,
           can
           signifie
           no
           more
           ,
           but
           to
           put
           it
           in
           case
           to
           resist
           a
           surprise
           ,
           or
           scalade
           :
           since
           if
           a
           Royal
           Army
           comes
           against
           it
           ,
           to
           besiege
           it
           in
           form
           ,
           it
           is
           certain
           ,
           that
           unless
           the
           Switzers
           come
           down
           with
           a
           force
           able
           to
           raise
           the
           siege
           ,
           those
           within
           will
           be
           able
           to
           make
           a
           very
           short
           resistance
           .
        
         
           From
           Geneva
           I
           went
           through
           the
           Countrey
           of
           Vaud
           ,
           or
           the
           Valley
           ,
           and
           Lausanne
           its
           
             Chief
             Town
          
           ,
           in
           my
           way
           to
           Bern.
           The
           Town
           of
           Lausanne
           is
           situated
           on
           three
           Hills
           ,
           so
           that
           the
           whole
           Town
           is
           ascent
           and
           descent
           ,
           and
           that
           very
           steep
           ,
           chiefly
           on
           the
           side
           on
           which
           the
           Church
           stands
           ,
           which
           is
           a
           very
           noble
           Fabrique
           .
           The
           South-wall
           of
           the
           Cross
           was
           so
           split
           by
           an
           Earthquake
           ,
           about
           30.
           years
           ago
           ,
           that
           there
           
           was
           a
           rent
           made
           from
           top
           to
           bottom
           above
           a
           foot
           wide
           ▪
           which
           was
           so
           closed
           
             ten
             years
          
           after
           by
           another
           Earthquake
           ,
           that
           now
           one
           only
           sees
           where
           the
           breach
           was
           .
           This
           extravagant
           situation
           of
           the
           Town
           was
           occasioned
           by
           a
           Legend
           of
           some
           miracles
           wrought
           near
           the
           Church
           :
           which
           prevailed
           so
           much
           on
           the
           credulity
           of
           that
           age
           ,
           that
           by
           it
           the
           Chur●h
           ,
           and
           so
           in
           consequence
           the
           Buildings
           near
           it
           were
           added
           to
           the
           old
           Town
           ,
           which
           stood
           on
           the
           other
           Hill
           ,
           where
           there
           was
           a
           Town
           made
           on
           the
           high-way
           from
           the
           Lake
           into
           Switzerland
           ,
           to
           which
           the
           chief
           priviledges
           of
           the
           T●wn
           ,
           particularly
           the
           judicature
           of
           life
           and
           death
           ,
           do
           still
           belong
           .
           Between
           G●neva
           and
           this
           ,
           lies
           the
           Lake
           which
           at
           the
           one
           end
           is
           called
           
             the
             Lake
             of
             Geneva
          
           ,
           and
           at
           the
           other
           
             the
             Lake
             of
             Lausanne
          
           .
           I
           need
           not
           mention
           the
           dimensions
           of
           it
           ,
           which
           are
           so
           well
           known
           ,
           only
           in
           some
           places
           the
           depth
           has
           never
           been
           found
           ;
           for
           it
           is
           more
           than
           500
           Fathom
           ;
           the
           Banks
           of
           the
           Lake
           are
           the
           beautifullest
           plots
           of
           ground
           that
           can
           be
           imagined
           ;
           for
           they
           look
           as
           if
           they
           hath
           been
           laid
           by
           art
           ;
           the
           sloping
           is
           so
           easie
           and
           so
           equal
           ,
           and
           the
           grounds
           are
           so
           well
           cultivated
           and
           peopled
           ,
           that
           a
           more
           delighting
           prospect
           cannot
           be
           seen
           any
           where
           :
           the
           Lake
           is
           well
           stockt
           with
           excellent
           Fish
           ,
           but
           their
           numbers
           do
           sensibly
           decrease
           ,
           and
           one
           sort
           is
           quite
           lost
           ;
           it
           is
           not
           only
           to
           be
           ascribed
           to
           the
           ravenousness
           of
           the
           Pikes
           that
           abound
           in
           it
           ,
           but
           to
           another
           so●t
           of
           Fish
           that
           they
           call
           Moutails
           ,
           which
           were
           never
           taken
           in
           the
           Lake
           till
           within
           these
           
             six
             years
          
           last
           past
           ;
           they
           are
           in
           the
           
             Lake
             of
             Neuf-Chastel
          
           ,
           and
           some
           of
           the
           other
           Lakes
           of
           Switzerland
           ;
           and
           it
           is
           likely
           that
           by
           some
           conveyance
           under
           ground
           they
           may
           have
           come
           into
           Channels
           that
           fall
           into
           this
           Lake
           :
           the
           Water
           of
           the
           Lake
           is
           all
           clear
           and
           fresh
           .
           It
           is
           not
           only
           a
           great
           pond
           made
           by
           the
           Rhosne
           ,
           that
           runs
           into
           it
           ,
           but
           does
           not
           pass
           through
           it
           unmixt
           ,
           as
           some
           Travellers
           have
           fondly
           imagined
           ,
           because
           sometimes
           a
           so●t
           gale
           makes
           a
           curling
           of
           the
           Waters
           in
           some
           places
           ,
           which
           runs
           smooth
           in
           the
           places
           over
           which
           that
           soft
           breath
           of
           Wind
           does
           not
           pass
           ,
           the
           gale
           varying
           its
           place
           often
           .
           But
           it
           is
           believed
           ,
           that
           there
           are
           also
           many
           great
           Fountains
           all
           over
           the
           L●ke
           .
           
           These
           Springs
           do
           very
           probably
           flow
           from
           some
           vast
           cavities
           that
           are
           in
           the
           neighbouring
           Mountains
           ,
           which
           are
           as
           great
           Cisterns
           ,
           that
           discharge
           themselves
           in
           the
           Valleys
           ,
           which
           are
           covered
           over
           with
           Lakes
           .
           And
           on
           the
           two
           sides
           of
           the
           Alpes
           ,
           both
           North
           and
           South
           ,
           there
           is
           so
           great
           a
           number
           of
           those
           little
           Seas
           ,
           that
           it
           may
           be
           easily
           guessed
           they
           must
           have
           vast
           sources
           that
           feed
           so
           constantly
           those
           huge
           ponds
           And
           when
           one
           considers
           the
           height
           of
           those
           Hills
           ,
           the
           chain
           of
           so
           many
           of
           them
           together
           ,
           &
           their
           extent
           both
           in
           length
           and
           breadth
           ;
           if
           at
           first
           he
           thinks
           of
           the
           old
           Fables
           of
           laying
           one
           Hill
           upon
           the
           top
           o●
           another
           ,
           he
           will
           be
           afterwards
           apt
           to
           imagin
           ,
           according
           to
           the
           ingenious
           conjecture
           of
           one
           that
           travelled
           over
           them
           oftner
           than
           once
           ,
           that
           these
           cannot
           be
           the
           primary
           productions
           of
           the
           Author
           of
           Nature
           ;
           but
           are
           the
           vast
           ruins
           of
           the
           first
           World
           ,
           which
           at
           the
           Deluge
           broke
           here
           into
           so
           many
           inequalities
           .
        
         
           One
           Hill
           not
           far
           from
           Geneva
           ,
           called
           Maudit
           or
           Cursed
           ,
           of
           which
           one
           third
           is
           alwayes
           covered
           with
           Snow
           ,
           is
           two
           miles
           of
           perpendicular
           height
           ,
           according
           to
           the
           obs●rvation
           of
           that
           incomparable
           Mathematician
           and
           Philosopher
           ,
           
             Nicolas
             Fatio
             Duilier
          
           ,
           who
           at
           22.
           years
           of
           age
           is
           already
           one
           of
           the
           greatest
           Men
           of
           his
           age
           ,
           and
           seems
           to
           be
           bot●
           to
           carry
           learning
           some
           sises
           beyond
           what
           it
           has
           yet
           attained
           .
        
         
           But
           now
           I
           will
           entertain
           you
           a
           little
           with
           the
           
             State
             of
             Bern
          
           ;
           for
           that
           Canton
           alone
           is
           above
           a
           third
           part
           of
           all
           Switzerland
           .
           I
           will
           say
           nothing
           of
           its
           beginning
           nor
           History
           ,
           nor
           will
           I
           inlarge
           upon
           the
           Constitution
           ,
           which
           are
           all
           well
           known
           .
           It
           has
           a
           Council
           of
           200.
           that
           goes
           by
           that
           name
           ,
           tho
           it
           consists
           almost
           of
           300.
           and
           another
           of
           25
           as
           Geneva
           .
           The
           Chief
           Magistrates
           are
           
             two
             Advoyers
          
           ,
           who
           are
           not
           annual
           ,
           as
           the
           
             Sindics
             of
             Geneva
          
           ,
           but
           are
           for
           life
           ;
           and
           have
           an
           authority
           not
           unlike
           that
           of
           the
           
             Roman
             Con●uls
          
           ,
           each
           being
           his
           year
           by
           turns
           the
           Advoyer
           in
           office
           .
           After
           them
           ,
           there
           are
           the
           four
           Bannerets
           ,
           who
           answer
           to
           the
           
             Tri●unes
             as
             the
             People
             in
             Rome
          
           :
           then
           come
           the
           two
           Bursars
           or
           Treasurers
           ,
           one
           for
           the
           ancient
           
             German
             Territory
          
           ,
           the
           
           other
           for
           the
           
             French
             Territory
          
           ,
           or
           the
           Country
           of
           Vaud
           ;
           and
           the
           two
           last
           chosen
           of
           the
           25.
           are
           called
           
             the
             Secrets
          
           ;
           for
           to
           them
           all
           secrets
           relating
           to
           the
           State
           are
           discovered
           :
           and
           they
           have
           an
           authority
           of
           calling
           the
           200.
           together
           when
           they
           think
           fit
           ,
           and
           of
           ac●using
           those
           of
           the
           Magistracy
           ,
           the
           Advoyers
           themselves
           not
           excepted
           ,
           as
           they
           see
           cause
           :
           tho
           this
           falls
           out
           seldom
           .
        
         
           There
           are
           72.
           
           Bailiages
           ,
           into
           which
           the
           whole
           
             Canton
             of
             Bern
          
           is
           divided
           ;
           and
           in
           every
           one
           of
           those
           there
           is
           a
           Bailif
           named
           by
           the
           Council
           of
           200.
           who
           must
           be
           a
           
             Citizen
             of
             Bern
          
           ,
           and
           one
           of
           the
           200.
           to
           which
           Council
           no
           man
           can
           be
           chosen
           till
           he
           is
           married
           :
           these
           Bailiages
           are
           imployments
           both
           of
           Honour
           and
           profit
           :
           for
           the
           Bailif
           is
           the
           Governour
           and
           Iudge
           in
           that
           Iurisdiction
           :
           since
           tho
           he
           has
           some
           Assessors
           ,
           who
           are
           chosen
           out
           of
           the
           Bailiage
           ,
           yet
           he
           may
           by
           his
           Authority
           carry
           matters
           which
           way
           he
           will
           ,
           against
           all
           their
           opinions
           ,
           and
           the
           Bailiff●
           have
           all
           the
           Confiscations
           and
           fines
           ;
           so
           that
           drinking
           being
           so
           common
           in
           the
           Countrey
           ,
           and
           that
           producing
           many
           quarrels
           ,
           the
           Bailif
           makes
           his
           advantage
           of
           all
           those
           disorders
           :
           and
           in
           the
           6
           years
           of
           his
           Government
           ,
           according
           to
           the
           quality
           of
           his
           Bailiage
           ,
           he
           not
           only
           lives
           by
           it
           ,
           but
           will
           carry
           perhaps
           20000.
           
           Crowns
           with
           him
           back
           to
           Bern
           :
           on
           which
           he
           lives
           till
           he
           can
           carry
           another
           Bailiage
           :
           for
           one
           is
           capable
           of
           being
           twice
           Bailif
           ;
           but
           tho
           some
           have
           been
           
             thri●e
             Bailifs
          
           ,
           this
           is
           very
           extraordinary
           .
           The
           Exactions
           of
           the
           Bailifs
           are
           the
           only
           Impositions
           or
           charges
           to
           which
           the
           Inhabitants
           are
           subjected
           ,
           and
           these
           falling
           only
           on
           the
           irregularities
           and
           disorders
           of
           the
           more
           debauched
           ,
           makes
           that
           this
           gri●vance
           ,
           tho
           in
           some
           particular
           cases
           it
           pres●es
           hard
           ,
           yet
           is
           not
           so
           universally
           felt
           :
           sor
           a
           sober
           and
           regular
           Man
           is
           in
           no
           danger
           .
           Many
           in
           this
           Canton
           are
           as
           in
           England
           Lords
           of
           Castles
           ,
           or
           M●nnors
           ,
           an●
           have
           a
           Iurisdiction
           annexed
           to
           their
           Estates
           ,
           and
           name
           their
           Magistrate
           ,
           who
           is
           called
           the
           Castellan
           .
           In
           matters
           of
           small
           consequence
           there
           lies
           no
           appeal
           from
           him
           to
           the
           Bailif
           ,
           but
           beyond
           the
           value
           of
           two
           Pistols
           an
           appeal
           lies
           ,
           and
           no
           sentence
           of
           death
           is
           executed
           ,
           till
           it
           is
           confirmed
           at
           Bern.
           There
           lies
           also
           an
           Ap●eal
           
           from
           the
           Bailif
           to
           the
           Council
           at
           Bern.
           There
           are
           many
           complaints
           of
           the
           injustice
           of
           the
           Bailifs
           :
           but
           their
           Law
           is
           short
           and
           clear
           ,
           so
           that
           a
           suit
           is
           soon
           ended
           ;
           two
           or
           three
           hearings
           is
           the
           most
           ,
           that
           even
           an
           intricate
           suit
           amounts
           to
           ,
           either
           in
           the
           first
           instance
           before
           the
           Bailif
           ,
           or
           in
           the
           second
           Judgement
           at
           Bern.
           The
           
             Citizens
             of
             Bern
          
           consider
           these
           Bailiages
           as
           their
           Inheritance
           ,
           and
           they
           are
           courted
           in
           this
           State
           perhaps
           with
           as
           much
           Intrigue
           ,
           as
           was
           ever
           used
           among
           the
           Romans
           in
           the
           distribution
           of
           their
           Provinces
           :
           and
           so
           little
           signifie
           the
           best
           Regulations
           when
           there
           are
           Intrinsick
           diseases
           in
           a
           state
           ,
           that
           tho
           there
           is
           all
           possible
           precaution
           used
           in
           the
           nomination
           of
           these
           Bailifs
           ,
           yet
           that
           has
           not
           preserved
           this
           state
           from
           falling
           under
           so
           great
           a
           mischief
           by
           those
           little
           Provinces
           ;
           that
           as
           it
           has
           already
           in
           a
           great
           measure
           corrupted
           their
           morals
           ,
           so
           it
           may
           likely
           turn
           in
           conclusion
           to
           the
           ruin
           of
           this
           Republick
           .
           All
           the
           Electors
           give
           their
           voices
           by
           ballot
           ,
           so
           that
           they
           are
           free
           from
           all
           after
           game
           in
           the
           nomination
           of
           the
           person
           :
           all
           the
           kindred
           of
           the
           pretenders
           ,
           even
           to
           the
           remotest
           degrees
           ,
           are
           excluded
           from
           voting
           ,
           as
           are
           also
           all
           their
           creditors
           ,
           so
           that
           none
           can
           vote
           but
           those
           who
           seem
           to
           have
           no
           interest
           in
           the
           issue
           of
           the
           competition
           ;
           and
           yet
           there
           is
           so
           much
           intrigue
           ,
           and
           so
           great
           a
           corruption
           in
           the
           distribution
           of
           these
           imployments
           ,
           that
           the
           whole
           business
           in
           which
           all
           Bern
           is
           ever
           in
           motion
           ,
           is
           the
           catching
           of
           the
           best
           Bailiages
           ,
           on
           which
           a
           family
           will
           have
           its
           Eye
           for
           many
           years
           before
           they
           fall
           ;
           for
           the
           Counsellors
           of
           Bern
           give
           a
           very
           small
           share
           of
           their
           Estates
           to
           their
           Children
           when
           they
           marry
           them
           :
           all
           that
           they
           propose
           is
           ,
           to
           make
           a
           Bailiage
           sure
           to
           them
           :
           for
           this
           ,
           they
           feast
           and
           drink
           ,
           and
           spare
           nothing
           by
           which
           they
           may
           make
           sure
           a
           sufficient
           number
           of
           votes
           ;
           but
           it
           is
           the
           chamber
           of
           the
           Bannerets
           that
           admits
           the
           pretenders
           to
           the
           competition
           When
           the
           Bailif
           is
           chosen
           ,
           he
           takes
           all
           possible
           methods
           to
           make
           the
           best
           of
           it
           he
           can
           ,
           and
           lets
           few
           crimes
           pass
           ,
           that
           carry
           either
           confiscations
           or
           fines
           after
           them
           ;
           h●s
           justice
           also
           is
           generally
           suspected
           .
           It
           is
           true
           ,
           those
           of
           the
           Bailiage
           may
           complain
           to
           the
           
             Council
             at
             Bern
          
           ,
           as
           the
           
           oppressed
           Provin●es
           did
           anciently
           to
           the
           
             Senate
             of
             Rome
          
           ;
           and
           there
           have
           been
           severe
           judgments
           against
           some
           very
           exorbitant
           Bailifs
           ;
           yet
           as
           complaints
           are
           not
           made
           ,
           except
           upon
           great
           occasions
           ,
           which
           are
           not
           often
           given
           by
           the
           Bailifs
           ,
           so
           it
           being
           the
           general
           interest
           of
           the
           Citizens
           of
           Bern
           to
           make
           all
           possible
           advantages
           of
           those
           imployments
           ,
           the
           censure
           will
           be
           but
           gentle
           ,
           except
           the
           complaint
           is
           crying
           .
        
         
           In
           Bern
           there
           is
           very
           little
           Trade
           ,
           only
           what
           is
           necessary
           for
           the
           support
           of
           the
           Town
           .
           They
           maintain
           Professors
           in
           the
           Universities
           of
           Bern
           ,
           and
           Lausanne
           ;
           the
           one
           for
           the
           
             German
             Territory
          
           ,
           which
           is
           the
           Ancient
           Canton
           ;
           and
           the
           other
           for
           the
           new
           Conquest
           ,
           which
           is
           the
           French
           :
           In
           the
           former
           there
           are
           about
           300.
           
           Parishes
           ;
           in
           the
           latter
           there
           are
           but
           about
           150
           :
           But
           in
           the
           Benefices
           of
           the
           German
           side
           ,
           the
           ancient
           Rights
           of
           the
           incumbents
           are
           generally
           preserved
           so
           ,
           that
           some
           Benefices
           are
           worth
           a
           thousand
           Crowns
           :
           Whereas
           in
           the
           
             païs
             des
             Vaud
          
           ,
           the
           provisions
           are
           set
           off
           as
           sallaries
           ,
           and
           are
           generally
           from
           one
           hundred
           to
           two
           hundred
           Crowns
           :
           It
           is
           visible
           ,
           that
           those
           of
           Bern
           trust
           more
           to
           the
           affections
           and
           fidelity
           of
           their
           subjects
           ,
           th●n
           to
           the
           strength
           of
           their
           Walls
           ;
           For
           as
           they
           have
           never
           finished
           them
           ,
           so
           what
           is
           built
           ,
           cannot
           be
           brought
           to
           a
           regular
           fortification
           ;
           and
           it
           is
           not
           preserved
           with
           any
           care
           ,
           nor
           furnished
           with
           Canon
           ;
           but
           if
           they
           have
           none
           on
           their
           Ramparts
           ,
           they
           have
           good
           store
           in
           their
           Arsenal
           ,
           in
           which
           they
           say
           there
           are
           Arms
           for
           forty
           thousand
           Men.
           
        
         
           The
           Pea●ants
           are
           generally
           rich
           ,
           chiefly
           on
           the
           German
           side
           ,
           and
           are
           all
           well
           Armed
           ;
           they
           pay
           no
           duties
           to
           the
           Publick
           ▪
           and
           the
           soil
           is
           capable
           of
           great
           cultivation
           ,
           in
           which
           some
           succeed
           so
           well
           ,
           that
           I
           was
           shewed
           some
           that
           were
           by
           accident
           at
           Bern
           ,
           who
           ,
           as
           I
           was
           told
           ,
           had
           of
           Estat●
           to
           the
           value
           of
           an
           hundred
           thousand
           Crowns
           ,
           but
           that
           is
           not
           ordinary
           ;
           yet
           ten
           thousand
           Crowns
           for
           a
           Peasant
           ,
           is
           no
           extraordinary
           matter
           .
           They
           live
           much
           on
           their
           Milk
           and
           Corn
           ,
           which
           in
           some
           places
           ,
           as
           about
           Payern
           ,
           yields
           an
           encrease
           of
           15.
           measures
           after
           one
           :
           they
           breed
           many
           Horses
           ,
           which
           bring
           them
           in
           a
           great
           deal
           of
           money
           .
           
           The
           worst
           thing
           in
           the
           Countrey
           is
           ,
           the
           moisture
           of
           the
           Air
           ,
           which
           is
           not
           only
           occasioned
           by
           the
           many
           Lakes
           that
           are
           in
           it
           ,
           and
           the
           Neighbouring
           Mountains
           that
           are
           covered
           with
           Snow
           ,
           some
           all
           the
           summer
           long
           ,
           and
           the
           rest
           till
           Mid-Summer
           ;
           but
           by
           the
           vast
           quantity
           of
           Woods
           of
           Fir-teees
           ,
           which
           seem
           to
           fill
           very
           near
           the
           half
           of
           their
           soil
           ;
           and
           if
           these
           were
           for
           the
           most
           part
           rooted
           out
           ,
           as
           they
           would
           have
           much
           more
           soil
           ,
           so
           their
           Air
           would
           be
           much
           purer
           ;
           yet
           till
           they
           find
           either
           Coal
           or
           Turf
           for
           their
           fewel
           ,
           this
           cannot
           be
           done
           .
           I
           was
           told
           ,
           that
           they
           had
           found
           Coal
           in
           some
           places
           :
           If
           the
           Coal
           is
           conveniently
           situated
           ,
           so
           that
           by
           their
           Lakes
           and
           Rivers
           i●
           can
           be
           easily
           carried
           over
           the
           Country
           ,
           it
           may
           save
           them
           a
           great
           extent
           of
           ground
           ;
           that
           as
           it
           is
           covered
           with
           Wood
           ,
           so
           the
           Air
           becomes
           thereby
           the
           more
           unwholsome
           .
        
         
           They
           have
           some
           Fountains
           of
           Salt-water
           ,
           but
           the
           making
           Salt
           consumes
           so
           much
           Wood
           ,
           that
           hitherto
           it
           ha●
           not
           turn'd
           to
           any
           account
           .
        
         
           The
           Men
           are
           generally
           sincere
           ,
           but
           heavy
           ;
           they
           think
           it
           necessary
           to
           correct
           the
           moisture
           of
           the
           Air
           with
           liberal
           entertainments
           ;
           and
           they
           are
           well
           furnished
           with
           all
           necessary
           ingredients
           ;
           for
           as
           their
           soil
           produces
           good
           Cattle
           ,
           so
           their
           Lakes
           abound
           in
           Fish
           ,
           and
           their
           Woods
           in
           Fowl
           ,
           the
           Wine
           is
           also
           light
           and
           good
           .
           The
           Women
           are
           generally
           imployed
           in
           their
           domes●ick
           Affairs
           :
           and
           the
           Wives
           even
           of
           the
           chief
           Magistrates
           of
           Bern
           ,
           look
           into
           all
           the
           concerns
           of
           the
           House
           and
           Kitchin
           ,
           as
           much
           as
           the
           Wives
           of
           the
           meanest
           Peasants
           .
           Men
           and
           Women
           do
           not
           converse
           promiscuously
           together
           ,
           and
           the
           Women
           are
           so
           much
           amused
           with
           the
           management
           at
           home
           ,
           and
           enter
           so
           little
           into
           intrigues
           ,
           that
           among
           them
           ,
           as
           an
           eminent
           Physitian
           there
           told
           me
           ,
           
             they
             know
             not
             what
             Vapours
             are
             ,
          
           which
           he
           imputed
           to
           the
           idleness
           and
           the
           intrigues
           that
           abound
           elsewhere
           ;
           whereas
           ▪
           h●
           said
           ,
           among
           them
           the
           Blood
           was
           cleansed
           by
           their
           labour
           ,
           and
           as
           that
           made
           them
           sleep
           well
           ,
           so
           they
           did
           not
           amuse
           themselves
           with
           much
           thinking
           ,
           nor
           did
           they
           know
           what
           Amours
           were
           :
           
           The
           
             third
             Adultery
          
           is
           punished
           with
           death
           ,
           which
           is
           also
           the
           punishment
           of
           the
           fifth
           act
           of
           Fornication
           ;
           of
           which
           I
           saw
           an
           instance
           while
           I
           was
           in
           Bern
           :
           For
           a
           Woman
           ,
           who
           confessed
           her self
           guilty
           of
           many
           W●oredoms
           ,
           and
           designed
           to
           be
           revenged
           on
           some
           Men
           ,
           that
           did
           not
           furnish
           her
           liberally
           with
           money
           ,
           was
           upon
           that
           condemned
           and
           executed
           ;
           the
           manner
           was
           solemn
           ;
           for
           the
           Advoye
           comes
           into
           an
           open
           Bench
           in
           the
           midle
           of
           the
           Street
           ,
           and
           for
           the
           satisfaction
           of
           the
           people
           ,
           the
           whole
           Process
           was
           read
           ,
           and
           Sentence
           was
           pronounced
           in
           the
           hearing
           of
           all
           :
           the
           Councellors
           both
           of
           the
           great
           and
           lesser
           Council
           standing
           about
           the
           Advoyer
           ,
           who
           after
           Sentence
           took
           the
           Criminal
           very
           gently
           by
           the
           hand
           ,
           and
           prayed
           for
           he●
           Soul
           ;
           and
           after
           Execution
           ,
           there
           was
           a
           Sermon
           for
           th●
           instruction
           of
           the
           people
           .
        
         
           The
           whole
           State
           is
           disposed
           for
           War
           ;
           for
           every
           ma●
           that
           can
           bear
           Arms
           is
           listed
           ;
           and
           knows
           his
           Post
           and
           Arms
           ;
           and
           there
           are
           Beacons
           so
           laid
           over
           the
           Country
           ▪
           that
           the
           signal
           can
           run
           over
           the
           whole
           Canion
           in
           a
           night
           :
           And
           their
           Military
           Lists
           are
           so
           laid
           ,
           that
           every
           man
           knows
           whether
           he
           is
           to
           come
           out
           upon
           the
           first
           or
           second
           ,
           or
           not
           till
           the
           general
           summons
           .
           They
           assured
           me
           at
           Bern
           ,
           that
           upon
           a
           General
           Summons
           they
           could
           bring
           above
           80000
           Men
           together
           .
           The
           Men
           are
           robust
           and
           strong
           ,
           and
           capable
           of
           great
           hardship
           ,
           and
           of
           good
           Discipline
           ,
           and
           have
           generally
           an
           extream
           sense
           of
           Liberty
           ,
           and
           a
           great
           love
           to
           their
           Country
           ;
           but
           they
           labour
           under
           a
           want
           of
           Officers
           .
           And
           tho
           the
           subjects
           of
           the
           State
           are
           Rich
           ,
           yet
           the
           publick
           is
           poor
           ;
           they
           can
           well
           resist
           a
           sudden
           Invasion
           of
           their
           Countrey
           ;
           but
           they
           would
           soon
           grow
           weary
           of
           a
           long
           War
           ;
           and
           the
           soil
           requires
           so
           much
           cultivation
           ,
           that
           they
           could
           not
           spare
           from
           their
           labour
           the
           Men
           that
           would
           be
           necessary
           to
           preserve
           their
           Countrey
           :
           they
           were
           indeed
           as
           happy
           as
           a
           people
           could
           be
           ,
           when
           the
           Emperour
           had
           Alsace
           on
           the
           one
           hand
           ,
           and
           the
           Spaniards
           had
           the
           
             Franche
             Comté
          
           on
           the
           other
           ,
           they
           had
           no
           reason
           to
           fear
           their
           Neighbours
           ;
           but
           now
           that
           both
           those
           
           Provinces
           are
           in
           the
           hands
           of
           the
           French
           ,
           the
           case
           is
           quite
           altered
           ;
           for
           as
           Basil
           is
           every
           moment
           in
           danger
           from
           the
           Garrison
           of
           Hunningen
           ,
           that
           is
           but
           a
           Cannon
           sho●
           distant
           from
           it
           ,
           so
           all
           the
           
             Païs
             de
             Vaud
          
           lies
           open
           to
           the
           
             Franche
             Comtè
          
           ,
           and
           has
           neither
           Fortified
           Places
           ,
           nor
           good
           Passes
           to
           secure
           it
           ;
           so
           that
           their
           errour
           in
           suffering
           this
           to
           fall
           into
           the
           hands
           of
           the
           French
           was
           so
           gross
           ,
           that
           I
           took
           some
           pains
           to
           be
           informed
           concerning
           it
           ;
           and
           will
           here
           given
           you
           this
           account
           ,
           that
           I
           had
           from
           one
           who
           was
           then
           in
           a
           very
           Eminent
           Post
           ,
           so
           that
           as
           he
           certainly
           knew
           the
           Secret
           ,
           he
           seemed
           to
           speak
           sincerely
           to
           me
           .
           He
           told
           me
           ,
           that
           the
           
             Duke
             of
             Lorraine
          
           had
           often
           moved
           in
           the
           
             Councils
             of
             War
          
           ,
           that
           the
           Invasion
           of
           France
           ought
           to
           be
           made
           on
           that
           side
           ,
           in
           which
           Franc●
           lay
           open
           ,
           and
           was
           very
           ill
           fortified
           ;
           this
           he
           repeated
           often
           ,
           and
           it
           was
           known
           in
           France
           :
           so
           that
           the
           King
           resolved
           to
           possess
           himself
           of
           the
           Comté
           ,
           but
           used
           that
           precaution
           ,
           that
           fearing
           to
           provoke
           the
           Switzers
           ,
           he
           offered
           a
           neutrality
           on
           that
           side
           :
           but
           the
           Spaniards
           ,
           who
           judged
           right
           ,
           that
           it
           was
           as
           much
           the
           interest
           of
           the
           Cantons
           ,
           as
           it
           was
           theirs
           ,
           to
           preserve
           the
           Comtè
           in
           their
           hands
           ,
           refused
           to
           consent
           to
           it
           ;
           but
           they
           took
           no
           care
           to
           defend
           it
           ,
           and
           seemed
           to
           leave
           that
           to
           the
           Switzers
           .
        
         
           In
           the
           mean
           while
           ,
           the
           
             Fren●h
             Money
          
           went
           about
           very
           liberally
           at
           Bern
           ,
           and
           after
           those
           that
           were
           most
           likely
           to
           make
           opposition
           were
           gained
           ,
           the
           
             French
             Minister
          
           proposed
           to
           them
           the
           necessity
           in
           which
           his
           Master
           found
           himself
           engaged
           to
           secure
           himself
           on
           that
           side
           ;
           but
           that
           still
           he
           would
           grant
           a
           neutrality
           on
           their
           account
           ,
           if
           the
           Spaniards
           would
           agree
           to
           it
           ;
           and
           with
           this
           all
           the
           Assurances
           that
           could
           be
           given
           in
           Words
           were
           offered
           to
           them
           ,
           that
           they
           should
           never
           find
           the
           least
           Prejudice
           from
           the
           Neighbou●hood
           of
           the
           French
           ,
           but
           on
           the
           contrary
           ,
           all
           possible
           Protection
           .
           There
           was
           just
           Cause
           given
           by
           the
           Spaniards
           to
           consider
           them
           very
           little
           in
           their
           Deliberation
           :
           for
           they
           would
           neither
           accept
           of
           the
           Neutrality
           ,
           nor
           send
           a
           considerable
           force
           to
           preserve
           the
           Country
           ,
           
           so
           that
           it
           seemed
           almost
           inevitable
           to
           give
           way
           to
           the
           French
           Proposition
           ;
           but
           one
           proposed
           that
           which
           an
           unbyassed
           Assembly
           would
           certainly
           have
           accepted
           ,
           that
           they
           should
           go
           themselves
           and
           take
           the
           Country
           ;
           and
           by
           so
           doing
           ,
           they
           would
           secure
           the
           Neutrality
           ,
           which
           was
           all
           that
           the
           French
           pretended
           to
           desire
           ;
           and
           they
           might
           easily
           satisfy
           the
           Spaniards
           ,
           and
           reimburse
           themselves
           of
           the
           Expence
           of
           the
           Invasion
           ,
           by
           restoring
           the
           Country
           to
           them
           ,
           when
           a
           General
           Peace
           should
           be
           made
           .
           He
           laid
           out
           the
           misery
           to
           which
           their
           Countrey
           must
           be
           reduced
           by
           so
           powersul
           a
           Neighbour
           ;
           but
           all
           was
           lost
           labour
           ;
           so
           he
           went
           out
           in
           a
           rage
           ,
           and
           published
           through
           the
           Town
           ,
           that
           
             the
             State
             was
             sold
             ,
             and
             all
             was
             lost
             .
          
           They
           now
           see
           their
           error
           too
           late
           ,
           and
           would
           repair
           it
           ,
           if
           it
           were
           possible
           ;
           but
           the
           truth
           is
           ,
           many
           of
           the
           particular
           Member●
           of
           this
           State
           ,
           do
           so
           prey
           upon
           the
           publick
           ,
           that
           unless
           they
           do
           with
           one
           consent
           reform
           those
           abuses
           ,
           they
           will
           never
           be
           in
           a
           condition
           to
           do
           much
           :
           for
           in
           many
           of
           their
           Bailiages
           ,
           of
           which
           some
           are
           Abbeys
           ,
           the
           Bailifs
           not
           only
           feed
           on
           the
           Subj●cts
           ,
           but
           likewise
           on
           the
           State
           ,
           and
           pretend
           they
           are
           so
           far
           super-expended
           ,
           that
           they
           discount
           a
           great
           deal
           of
           the
           publick
           revenue
           ,
           of
           which
           they
           are
           the
           Receivers
           ,
           for
           their
           Reimbursement
           :
           which
           made
           
             Mr.
             d'
             Erlack
          
           once
           say
           ,
           when
           one
           of
           those
           Accounts
           was
           presented
           ,
           
             That
             it
             was
             very
             strange
             if
             the
             Abbey
             could
             not
             feed
             the
             Monks
             .
          
           It
           is
           true
           ,
           the
           power
           of
           their
           Bannerets
           is
           so
           great
           ,
           that
           one
           would
           think
           they
           might
           redress
           many
           Abuses
           .
           The
           
             City
             of
             Bern
          
           is
           divided
           into
           four
           Bodies
           ,
           not
           unlike
           our
           
             Companies
             of
             London
          
           ,
           which
           are
           the
           Bakers
           ,
           the
           Butchers
           ,
           the
           Tanners
           ,
           and
           the
           Black-smiths
           ;
           and
           every
           Citizen
           of
           Bern
           does
           incorporate
           himself
           into
           one
           of
           these
           Societies
           ,
           which
           they
           call
           Abbeys
           ;
           for
           it
           is
           likely
           they
           were
           antiently
           a
           sort
           of
           a
           Religious
           Fraternity
           :
           every
           one
           of
           these
           chuses
           two
           Bannerets
           ,
           who
           bear
           office
           by
           turns
           from
           four
           years
           to
           four
           years
           ,
           and
           every
           one
           of
           them
           has
           a
           Bailiage
           annexed
           to
           his
           Office
           ,
           which
           he
           holds
           for
           
           life
           .
           They
           carry
           their
           name
           from
           the
           Banners
           of
           the
           several
           Abbeys
           ,
           as
           the
           Gonfaloniers
           of
           Italy
           :
           and
           the
           Advoyers
           carry
           still
           their
           name
           from
           the
           ancient
           title●
           Ecdicus
           ,
           or
           Advocate
           ,
           that
           was
           ●he
           title
           of
           the
           Chief
           Magistrates
           of
           the
           Towns
           in
           the
           times
           of
           the
           
             Roma●
             Emperours
          
           .
           The
           Chamber
           of
           the
           Four
           Bannerets
           that
           bear
           Office
           ,
           has
           a
           vast
           Power
           ,
           they
           examine
           and
           pass
           all
           Accounts
           ,
           and
           they
           admit
           all
           the
           Competitors
           to
           any
           offices
           ,
           so
           that
           no
           man
           can
           be
           proposed
           to
           the
           Council
           of
           200.
           without
           their
           Approbation
           ;
           and
           this
           being
           now
           the
           Chief
           Intrigue
           of
           their
           State
           ,
           they
           have
           so
           absolute
           an
           Authority
           in
           shutting
           men
           out
           from
           imployments
           ,
           that
           their
           office
           ,
           which
           is
           for
           life
           ,
           is
           no
           less
           considerable
           than
           that
           of
           the
           Advoyer
           ,
           tho
           they
           are
           inferiour
           to
           him
           in
           rank
           .
           They
           manage
           matters
           with
           great
           address
           ,
           of
           which
           this
           instance
           was
           given
           me
           in
           a
           competition
           for
           the
           Advoyership
           not
           long
           ago
           ;
           there
           was
           one
           whose
           temper
           was
           violent
           ,
           that
           had
           made
           it
           so
           sure
           among
           those
           who
           were
           qualified
           to
           vote
           in
           it
           ,
           as
           being
           neither
           of
           his
           kindred
           ,
           nor
           Alliance
           ,
           that
           they
           believed
           he
           would
           carry
           it
           from
           the
           other
           competitor
           ,
           whom
           they
           favored
           ,
           so
           they
           set
           up
           a
           third
           competitor
           ,
           whose
           kindred
           were
           the
           persons
           that
           were
           made
           sure
           ●o
           him
           ,
           whose
           advancement
           they
           opposed
           ,
           and
           by
           this
           means
           they
           were
           all
           shut
           out
           from
           voting
           ,
           so
           that
           the
           Electio●
           went
           according
           to
           the
           design
           of
           the
           Bannerets
           .
           The
           chief
           man
           now
           in
           Bern
           ,
           who
           was
           ●he
           reigning
           Advoyer
           when
           I
           was
           there
           ,
           is
           
             Mr.
             d'
             Erlack
          
           ,
           Nephew
           to
           that
           
             Mr.
             d'
             Erlack
          
           ,
           who
           was
           Governour
           of
           Br●sack
           ,
           and
           had
           a
           breve●
           to
           be
           a
           
             Marischal
             of
             France
          
           ;
           this
           is
           one
           of
           the
           noblest
           Families
           in
           Bern
           ,
           that
           acted
           a
           great
           part
           in
           shaking
           off
           the
           
             Austrian
             Tyranny
          
           ,
           and
           they
           have
           been
           ever
           since
           very
           much
           distinguished
           there
           from
           all
           the
           rest
           of
           their
           Nobility
           .
           The
           present
           Head
           of
           it
           is
           a
           very
           extraordinary
           Man
           ,
           he
           has
           a
           great
           Authority
           in
           his
           Canton
           ,
           not
           only
           as
           he
           is
           Advoyer
           ,
           but
           by
           the
           particular
           esteem
           which
           is
           payed
           him
           .
           For
           he
           is
           thought
           the
           wisest
           and
           worthiest
           Man
           of
           the
           State
           ,
           tho
           it
           is
           somewhat
           strange
           how
           he
           
           should
           bear
           such
           a
           sway
           in
           such
           a
           Government
           ;
           for
           he
           neither
           feasts
           ,
           nor
           drinks
           with
           the
           rest
           .
           He
           is
           a
           Man
           of
           great
           Sobriety
           and
           Gravity
           ,
           very
           reserved
           ,
           and
           behaves
           himself
           liker
           a
           
             Minister
             of
             State
          
           in
           a
           Monarchy
           ,
           than
           a
           Magistrate
           in
           a
           
             P●pular
             G●vernment
          
           ;
           For
           one
           sees
           in
           him
           none
           of
           those
           Arts
           ,
           that
           seem
           necessary
           in
           su●h
           a
           Government
           .
           He
           has
           a
           great
           Estate
           ,
           and
           no
           Children
           ;
           so
           he
           has
           no
           Projects
           for
           his
           Family
           ;
           and
           does
           what
           he
           can
           to
           correct
           the
           Abuses
           of
           the
           State
           ,
           tho
           the
           disease
           is
           inveterate
           ,
           and
           seems
           past
           cure
           .
        
         
           He
           had
           a
           Misfortune
           in
           a
           War
           that
           was
           thirty
           years
           ago
           ,
           in
           the
           y●ar
           1656.
           between
           the
           Popish
           and
           the
           
             Protest●nt
             Cantons
          
           :
           the
           occasion
           of
           which
           will
           engage
           me
           in
           a
           short
           digression
           .
           The
           peace
           of
           Switzerland
           is
           chiefly
           preserved
           by
           a
           Law
           agreed
           on
           among
           all
           the
           Cantons
           ,
           that
           every
           Canton
           may
           make
           what
           Regulations
           concerning
           Religion
           they
           think
           fit
           ,
           without
           prejudice
           to
           the
           
             General
             League
          
           .
           Now
           the
           
             Popish
             Cantons
          
           have
           made
           Laws
           ,
           that
           it
           shall
           be
           capital
           to
           any
           to
           change
           their
           Religion
           ,
           and
           on
           a
           set
           day
           every
           year
           they
           go
           all
           to
           Mass
           ,
           and
           the
           
             Masters
             of
             Families
          
           swear
           to
           continue
           true
           to
           the
           State
           ,
           and
           firm
           in
           their
           Religion
           to
           their
           lives
           end
           ;
           and
           so
           they
           pretend
           they
           punish
           their
           falling
           into
           Heresie
           with
           death
           and
           Confiscation
           of
           Goods
           ,
           because
           it
           is
           a
           violation
           of
           the
           Faith
           ,
           which
           is
           so
           solemnly
           sworn
           .
           But
           on
           the
           other
           hand
           ,
           in
           the
           
             Protestant
             Cantons
          
           ,
           such
           as
           turn
           are
           only
           obliged
           to
           go
           and
           live
           out
           of
           the
           Canton
           ;
           but
           for
           their
           Estates
           ,
           they
           still
           preserve
           them
           ,
           and
           are
           permitted
           to
           sell
           them
           .
           One
           cannot
           but
           observe
           more
           of
           the
           merciful
           Spirit
           of
           the
           Gospel
           ,
           in
           the
           one
           ▪
           than
           in
           the
           other
           .
           In
           
             two
             Cantons
             ,
             Appenzel
          
           ,
           and
           Glar●s
           ,
           both
           Religions
           are
           tollerated
           ,
           and
           are
           capable
           of
           equal
           Priviledges
           ,
           and
           in
           some
           Bailiages
           that
           were
           conquered
           in
           common
           by
           the
           Cantons
           of
           Bern
           and
           Friburg
           ,
           in
           the
           Wars
           with
           Savoy
           ,
           the
           
             two
             Cantons
          
           name
           the
           Bailifs
           by
           turns
           ,
           and
           both
           Religions
           are
           so
           equally
           tolerated
           ,
           that
           in
           the
           same
           Church
           they
           have
           both
           Mass
           and
           Sermon
           ,
           so
           equally
           ,
           that
           on
           
             one
             Sunday
          
           ,
           the
           Mass
           
           begins
           ,
           and
           the
           Sermon
           follows
           ,
           and
           the
           
             next
             Sunday
          
           ,
           the
           Sermon
           begins
           ,
           and
           the
           Mass
           comes
           next
           ,
           without
           the
           least
           disorder
           or
           murmuring
           .
        
         
           But
           in
           the
           year
           1656.
           some
           of
           the
           Cantons
           of
           Schwitz
           changing
           their
           Religion
           ,
           and
           retiring
           to
           Zurich
           ,
           their
           Estates
           were
           confiscated
           ;
           and
           some
           others
           ,
           that
           had
           also
           changed
           ,
           but
           had
           not
           left
           the
           Canton
           ,
           were
           taken
           and
           beheaded
           .
           Zurich
           demanded
           the
           Estates
           of
           the
           refugies
           ,
           but
           instead
           of
           gra●ting
           this
           ,
           the
           Canton
           of
           Schwitz
           demanded
           hack
           their
           subjects
           ,
           that
           they
           might
           proceed
           against
           them
           as
           delinquents
           ;
           and
           they
           founded
           this
           on
           ●
           Law
           ,
           by
           which
           the
           Cantons
           are
           obliged
           to
           deliver
           up
           the
           Criminals
           of
           another
           Canton
           ,
           when
           they
           come
           among
           them
           ,
           if
           they
           are
           demanded
           by
           the
           Canton
           to
           which
           they
           belong
           ;
           but
           those
           of
           Zurich
           and
           Bern
           thought
           this
           was
           both
           inhuman
           and
           unchristian
           ;
           tho
           the
           
             Deputy
             of
             Bas●●
          
           was
           of
           another
           mind
           ,
           and
           thought
           that
           they
           ought
           to
           be
           delivered
           up
           ,
           which
           extreamly
           disgusted
           those
           of
           Zurich
           .
           Those
           of
           Schwitz
           committed
           some
           insolences
           upon
           the
           subjects
           of
           Zurich
           ,
           and
           refused
           to
           give
           satisfaction
           .
           Upon
           all
           which
           a
           War
           followed
           between
           the
           Protestant
           and
           Popish
           Cantons
           .
           The
           Cantons
           of
           Bern
           and
           Zurich
           raised
           an
           Army
           of
           25000
           Men
           ,
           which
           was
           commanded
           by
           
             Mr.
             d'
             Erlak
          
           ,
           but
           was
           dispersed
           in
           several
           Bodies
           ;
           and
           the
           Papists
           had
           not
           above
           6000
           ;
           yet
           they
           surprised
           
             Mr.
             d'
             Erlack
          
           with
           a
           body
           not
           much
           superiour
           to
           theirs
           ;
           both
           sides
           after
           a
           short
           engagement
           run
           ;
           the
           Canon
           of
           the
           Canton
           of
           Ber●
           was
           left
           in
           the
           Field
           a
           whole
           day
           ;
           at
           last
           those
           of
           Lucer●
           seeing
           that
           none
           stayed
           to
           defend
           the
           Canon
           ,
           carried
           them
           off
           ;
           this
           loss
           raised
           such
           a
           tumult
           in
           Bern
           ,
           that
           they
           seemed
           resolved
           to
           sacrifice
           
             Mr.
             d'
             Erlack
          
           :
           but
           he
           came
           with
           such
           a
           presence
           of
           mind
           ,
           and
           gave
           so
           satisfying
           an
           account
           of
           the
           Mi●fortune
           ,
           that
           the
           Tumult
           ceased
           ,
           and
           soon
           after
           the
           War
           ended
           .
           Upon
           this
           many
           thought
           ,
           that
           tho
           the
           Papists
           acted
           cruelly
           ,
           yet
           it
           wa●
           according
           to
           their
           Laws
           ,
           and
           that
           no
           other
           Canton
           could
           pretend
           to
           interpose
           or
           quarrel
           with
           those
           of
           Schwitz
           for
           what
           they
           did
           upon
           that
           occasion
           .
           Within
           these
           few
           years
           there
           were
           some
           quarrels
           
           like
           to
           arise
           in
           the
           
             Canton
             of
             Glaris
          
           ,
           where
           it
           was
           said
           ,
           that
           the
           equal
           priviledges
           agreed
           on
           to
           both
           Religions
           were
           not
           preserved
           ;
           but
           on
           this
           occasion
           the
           
             Popes
             Nuntio
          
           acted
           a
           very
           different
           part
           from
           that
           which
           might
           have
           been
           expected
           from
           him
           ;
           For
           whereas
           the
           M●nisters
           of
           that
           Court
           have
           been
           commonly
           the
           Incendiaries
           in
           all
           the
           disputes
           that
           concern
           Religion
           ,
           he
           acted
           rather
           the
           part
           of
           a
           Mediator
           ;
           and
           whereas
           it
           was
           visible
           ,
           that
           the
           injustice
           lay
           on
           the
           side
           of
           the
           Papists
           ,
           he
           interposed
           so
           effectually
           with
           those
           of
           Lucern
           ,
           which
           is
           the
           chief
           of
           the
           
             Popish
             Cantons
          
           ,
           that
           the
           difference
           was
           composed
           .
        
         
           But
           to
           return
           to
           Bern
           ;
           the
           buildings
           have
           neither
           great
           magnificence
           ,
           nor
           many
           Appartments
           ,
           but
           they
           are
           convenient
           ,
           and
           suited
           to
           the
           way
           of
           living
           in
           the
           Country
           .
           The
           Streets
           not
           only
           of
           Bern
           and
           the
           bigger
           Towns
           ,
           but
           even
           of
           the
           smallest
           Villages
           ,
           are
           furnished
           with
           Fountains
           that
           run
           continually
           ;
           which
           as
           they
           are
           of
           great
           use
           ,
           so
           they
           want
           not
           their
           beauty
           .
           The
           great
           Church
           of
           Bern
           is
           a
           very
           noble
           Fabrick
           ;
           but
           being
           built
           on
           the
           top
           of
           the
           Hill
           on
           which
           the
           Town
           stands
           ,
           it
           seems
           the
           ground
           began
           to
           fail
           ,
           so
           to
           support
           it
           ,
           they
           have
           raised
           a
           vast
           Fabrick
           ,
           which
           has
           cost
           more
           than
           the
           Church
           it self
           ;
           for
           there
           is
           a
           Platform
           made
           ,
           which
           is
           a
           square
           ,
           to
           which
           the
           Church
           is
           one
           side
           ,
           and
           the
           further
           side
           is
           a
           vast
           Wall
           ,
           fortified
           with
           buttresses
           about
           150
           foot
           high
           .
           They
           told
           me
           ,
           that
           all
           the
           ground
           down
           to
           the
           bottom
           of
           the
           Hill
           was
           dug
           into
           vaults
           ;
           this
           plat-form
           is
           the
           chief
           walk
           of
           the
           Town
           ,
           chiefly
           about
           Sun
           set
           ;
           and
           the
           River
           underneath
           presents
           a
           very
           beautiful
           prospect
           ▪
           For
           there
           is
           a
           Cut
           taken
           off
           from
           it
           for
           the
           Mills
           ,
           but
           all
           along
           as
           this
           Cut
           goes
           ,
           the
           Water
           of
           Aar
           runs
           over
           a
           sloping
           bank
           of
           Stone
           ,
           which
           they
           say
           ,
           was
           made
           at
           a
           vast
           charge
           ,
           and
           makes
           a
           noble
           and
           large
           Cascade
           .
        
         
           The
           second
           Church
           is
           the
           
             Dominicans
             Chappel
          
           ,
           where
           I
           saw
           the
           famous
           hole
           that
           went
           to
           an
           Image
           in
           the
           Church
           ,
           from
           one
           of
           the
           Cells
           of
           the
           Dominicans
           ,
           which
           leads
           me
           to
           set
           down
           that
           Story
           at
           some
           length
           :
           For
           as
           it
           was
           one
           of
           the
           most
           signal
           cheats
           ,
           that
           the
           World
           has
           
           known
           ;
           so
           it
           falling
           out
           about
           
             twenty
             years
          
           before
           the
           Reformation
           was
           received
           in
           Bern
           ,
           it
           is
           very
           probable
           that
           it
           contributed
           not
           a
           little
           to
           the
           preparing
           of
           the
           spirits
           of
           the
           people
           to
           that
           change
           .
           I
           am
           she
           more
           able
           to
           give
           a
           particular
           account
           of
           it
           ,
           because
           I
           read
           the
           
             origin●●
             process
          
           in
           the
           
             Latin
             record
          
           ,
           signed
           by
           the
           Notaries
           of
           the
           Court
           of
           the
           delegates
           that
           the
           Pope
           sent
           to
           try
           the
           matter
           .
           The
           record
           is
           above
           130
           sheets
           ,
           writ
           close
           ,
           and
           of
           all
           side●
           ,
           it
           being
           indeed
           a
           large
           volum
           ;
           and
           I
           found
           the
           printed
           accounts
           so
           defective
           ,
           that
           I
           was
           at
           the
           pains
           of
           reading
           the
           whole
           process
           ,
           of
           which
           I
           will
           give
           here
           a
           true
           abstract
           .
        
         
           The
           two
           famous
           Orders
           ,
           that
           had
           possessed
           themselves
           of
           the
           esteem
           of
           those
           datk
           ages
           ,
           were
           engaged
           in
           a
           mighty
           rivalry
           .
           The
           Dominicans
           were
           the
           more
           learned
           ,
           they
           were
           the
           eminentest
           Preachers
           of
           those
           times
           ,
           and
           had
           the
           conduct
           of
           the
           
             Courts
             of
             Inquisition
          
           ,
           and
           the
           other
           chief
           officer
           in
           the
           Church
           in
           their
           hands
           .
           But
           on
           the
           other
           hand
           ,
           the
           Franciscans
           had
           an
           outward
           appearance
           of
           more
           severity
           a
           ruder
           habit
           ,
           stricter
           rules
           ,
           and
           greater
           poverty
           :
           all
           whic●
           gave
           them
           such
           advantages
           in
           the
           eyes
           of
           the
           simple
           multitude
           ,
           as
           were
           able
           to
           ballance
           the
           other
           honours
           of
           the
           
             Dominican
             Order
          
           .
           In
           short
           ,
           the
           two
           Orders
           were
           engaged
           in
           a
           high
           rivalry
           ,
           but
           the
           devotion
           towards
           the
           Virgin
           being
           the
           prevailing
           passion
           of
           those
           times
           ,
           the
           Franciscans
           upon
           thi●
           had
           great
           advantages
           .
           The
           Dominicans
           ,
           thar
           are
           all
           engage●
           in
           the
           defence
           of
           
             Thomas
             Aquinas's
          
           opinions
           ,
           were
           thereby
           obliged
           to
           assert
           ,
           that
           she
           was
           born
           in
           
             Original
             Sin
          
           ;
           th●●●
           was
           proposed
           to
           the
           people
           by
           the
           Franciscans
           as
           no
           less
           than
           Blasphemy
           ,
           and
           by
           this
           the
           Dominicans
           began
           to
           lose
           ground
           extreamly
           in
           the
           minds
           of
           the
           people
           ,
           who
           were
           strongly
           prepossed
           in
           favour
           of
           the
           
             immaculate
             Conceptio●
          
           ▪
        
         
           About
           the
           beginning
           of
           the
           15th
           Century
           ,
           a
           Francisc●●
           happened
           to
           preach
           in
           Francfort
           ,
           and
           one
           
             Wigand
             a
             Dominican
          
           coming
           into
           the
           Church
           ,
           the
           Cordelier
           seeing
           him
           ,
           broke
           out
           into
           exclamations
           ,
           praising
           God
           that
           he
           was
           no●
           of
           an
           Order
           that
           prophaned
           the
           Virgin
           ,
           or
           that
           poysone●
           Princes
           in
           the
           Sacrament
           ,
           (
           for
           a
           Dominican
           had
           poysone●
           the
           Emperor
           Henry
           the
           VII
           .
           with
           the
           
             Sacrament
             ,
             )
             Wiga●●
          
           being
           extreamly
           provoked
           with
           this
           bloody
           reproach
           ,
           gav●
           
           him
           the
           Lye
           ,
           upon
           which
           a
           dispute
           arose
           ,
           which
           ended
           in
           a
           tumult
           ,
           that
           had
           almost
           cost
           the
           Dominican
           his
           life
           ,
           yet
           he
           got
           away
           .
           The
           whole
           Order
           resolved
           to
           take
           their
           revenge
           ,
           and
           in
           a
           Chapter
           ,
           held
           at
           Vimpsen
           in
           the
           year
           1504.
           they
           contrived
           a
           method
           for
           supporting
           the
           credit
           of
           their
           Order
           ,
           which
           was
           much
           sunk
           in
           the
           opinion
           of
           the
           people
           ,
           and
           for
           bearing
           down
           the
           reputation
           of
           the
           Franciscans
           ,
           four
           of
           the
           juncto
           undertook
           to
           manage
           the
           design
           ;
           for
           they
           said
           ,
           since
           the
           people
           were
           so
           much
           disposed
           to
           believe
           Dreams
           and
           Fables
           ,
           they
           must
           dream
           of
           their
           side
           ,
           and
           endeavour
           to
           cheat
           the
           people
           as
           well
           as
           the
           others
           had
           done
           .
           They
           resolved
           to
           make
           Bern
           the
           Seene
           in
           which
           the
           project
           should
           be
           put
           in
           execution
           ;
           for
           they
           found
           the
           people
           of
           Bern
           ,
           at
           that
           time
           apt
           to
           Swallow
           any
           thing
           ,
           and
           not
           disposed
           to
           make
           severe
           Enquiries
           into
           extraordinary
           Matters
           .
           When
           they
           had
           formed
           their
           design
           ,
           a
           fit
           Tool
           presented
           it self
           ;
           for
           one
           Ietzer
           came
           to
           take
           their
           habit
           as
           a
           Lay-brother
           ,
           who
           had
           all
           the
           dispositions
           that
           were
           necessary
           for
           the
           execution
           of
           their
           project
           :
           For
           he
           was
           extream
           simple
           ,
           and
           was
           much
           inclined
           to
           Austerities
           ,
           so
           having
           observed
           his
           temper
           well
           ,
           they
           began
           to
           execute
           their
           project
           ,
           the
           very
           Night
           after
           he
           took
           the
           Habit
           ,
           which
           was
           ,
           on
           Lady-day
           1507.
           one
           of
           the
           Fryers
           conveyed
           himself
           secretly
           into
           his
           Cell
           ,
           and
           appeared
           to
           him
           as
           if
           he
           had
           been
           in
           Purgatory
           ,
           in
           a
           strange
           figure
           ,
           and
           he
           had
           a
           Box
           near
           his
           mouth
           ,
           upon
           which
           as
           he
           blew
           ,
           fire
           seemed
           to
           come
           out
           of
           his
           mouth
           .
           He
           had
           also
           some
           Dogs
           about
           him
           ,
           that
           appeared
           as
           his
           Tormentors
           ,
           in
           this
           posture
           he
           came
           near
           the
           Fryer
           ,
           while
           he
           was
           a
           Bed
           ,
           and
           took
           up
           a
           celebrated
           Story
           that
           they
           used
           to
           tell
           all
           their
           Fryers
           ,
           to
           beget
           in
           them
           a
           great
           dread
           at
           the
           laying
           aside
           their
           habit
           ,
           which
           was
           ,
           that
           one
           of
           the
           Order
           ,
           who
           was
           Superiour
           of
           their
           House
           at
           Soloturn
           ,
           had
           gone
           to
           Paris
           ,
           but
           laying
           aside
           his
           habit
           ,
           was
           killed
           in
           his
           Lay-habit
           .
           The
           Fryer
           in
           the
           Vizar
           said
           ,
           he
           was
           that
           person
           ,
           and
           was
           condemned
           to
           Purgatory
           for
           that
           Crime
           ;
           but
           he
           added
           ,
           that
           he
           might
           be
           rescued
           out
           of
           it
           by
           his
           means
           ,
           and
           he
           seconded
           this
           with
           most
           horrible
           Cries
           ,
           expressing
           the
           Miseries
           which
           he
           suffered
           .
           The
           poor
           Fryer
           (
           Ietzer
           )
           was
           excessively
           frighted
           ,
           but
           the
           other
           advanced
           ,
           and
           required
           a
           Promise
           of
           him
           
           that
           which
           he
           should
           desire
           of
           him
           ,
           in
           order
           to
           the
           delivering
           him
           out
           of
           his
           Torment
           .
           The
           frighted
           Fryer
           promised
           all
           that
           he
           asked
           of
           him
           ;
           then
           the
           other
           said
           ,
           he
           knew
           he
           was
           a
           great
           Saint
           ,
           and
           that
           his
           prayers
           and
           mortifications
           would
           prevail
           ,
           but
           they
           must
           be
           very
           extraordinary
           ;
           The
           whole
           Monastery
           must
           for
           a
           week
           together
           discipline
           themselves
           with
           a
           Whip
           ,
           and
           he
           must
           lie
           prostrate
           in
           the
           form
           of
           one
           on
           a
           Cross
           ,
           in
           one
           of
           their
           Chappels
           ,
           while
           Mass
           was
           said
           in
           the
           sight
           of
           all
           that
           should
           come
           together
           to
           it
           ;
           and
           he
           added
           ,
           that
           if
           he
           did
           this
           ,
           he
           should
           find
           the
           effects
           of
           the
           love
           that
           the
           B.
           Virgin
           did
           bear
           him
           ,
           together
           with
           many
           other
           extraordinary
           things
           ;
           and
           said
           ,
           he
           would
           appear
           again
           accompanied
           with
           two
           other
           Spirits
           ;
           and
           assured
           him
           ,
           that
           all
           that
           he
           did
           suffer
           for
           his
           deliverance
           ,
           should
           be
           most
           gloriously
           rewarded
           .
           Morning
           was
           no
           sooner
           come
           than
           the
           Frie●
           gave
           an
           account
           of
           this
           Apparition
           to
           the
           rest
           of
           the
           Convent
           ,
           who
           seemed
           extreamly
           surprised
           at
           it
           ;
           they
           all
           pressed
           him
           to
           undergo
           the
           discipline
           that
           was
           enjoyned
           him
           ,
           and
           every
           one
           undertook
           to
           bear
           his
           share
           ;
           so
           the
           deluded
           Fryer
           performed
           it
           all
           exactly
           in
           one
           of
           the
           Chappels
           of
           their
           Church
           :
           This
           drew
           a
           vast
           number
           of
           Spectators
           together
           ,
           who
           all
           considered
           the
           poor
           Fryer
           as
           a
           Saint
           ,
           and
           in
           the
           mean
           while
           the
           four
           Fryers
           that
           managed
           the
           imposture
           ,
           magnified
           the
           Miracle
           of
           the
           Apparition
           to
           the
           skie●
           in
           their
           Sermons
           .
           The
           Fryer's
           Confessor
           was
           upon
           the
           Secret
           ,
           and
           by
           this
           means
           they
           knew
           all
           the
           little
           passages
           of
           the
           poor
           Fryers
           life
           ,
           even
           to
           his
           thoughts
           ,
           which
           helped
           them
           not
           a
           little
           in
           the
           Conduct
           of
           the
           matter
           .
           The
           Confessor
           gave
           him
           an
           Hostie
           ,
           with
           a
           piece
           of
           Wood
           ,
           tha●
           was
           ,
           as
           he
           pretended
           ,
           a
           true
           piece
           of
           the
           Cross
           ,
           and
           by
           these
           he
           was
           to
           fortify
           himself
           ,
           if
           any
           other
           Apparition
           should
           come
           to
           him
           ,
           since
           evil
           Spirits
           would
           be
           certainly
           chained
           up
           by
           them
           .
           The
           Night
           after
           that
           ,
           the
           former
           Apparition●
           was
           renewed
           ,
           and
           the
           masqued
           Fryer
           brough●
           two
           others
           with
           him
           in
           such
           Vizzards
           ,
           that
           the
           Fry●●
           thought
           they
           were
           Devils
           indeed
           .
           The
           Fryer
           presented
           the
           Hostie
           to
           them
           ,
           which
           gave
           them
           such
           a
           cheek
           ,
           that
           he
           
           was
           fully
           satisfied
           of
           the
           vertue
           of
           this
           preservative
           .
        
         
           The
           Fryer
           ,
           that
           pretended
           he
           was
           suffering
           in
           Purgatory
           ,
           said
           so
           many
           things
           to
           him
           relating
           to
           the
           Secre●s
           of
           his
           life
           ,
           and
           Thoughts
           ,
           which
           he
           had
           from
           the
           Confessor
           ,
           that
           the
           poor
           Fryer
           was
           fully
           possessed
           with
           the
           opinion
           of
           the
           reallity
           of
           the
           Apparition
           .
           In
           two
           of
           these
           Apparitions
           ,
           that
           were
           both
           managed
           in
           the
           same
           manner
           ,
           the
           Fryer
           in
           the
           Masque
           talked
           much
           of
           the
           
             Dominican
             Order
          
           ,
           which
           he
           said
           was
           excessively
           dear
           to
           the
           B.
           Virgin
           ,
           who
           knew
           her self
           to
           be
           conceived
           in
           Original
           sin
           ,
           and
           that
           tbe
           Doctors
           who
           taught
           the
           contrary
           were
           in
           Purgatory
           :
           That
           the
           Story
           of
           S.
           Bernards
           appearing
           with
           a
           spot
           on
           him
           ,
           for
           having
           opposed
           himself
           to
           the
           feast
           of
           the
           Conception
           ,
           was
           a
           Forgery
           :
           but
           that
           it
           was
           true
           ,
           that
           some
           hideous
           Flies
           had
           appeared
           on
           St
           Bonaventures
           Tomb
           ,
           who
           taught
           the
           contrary
           .
           That
           the
           
             B.
             Virgin
          
           abhorred
           the
           Cordeliers
           for
           making
           her
           equal
           to
           her
           Son
           ;
           that
           Scotus
           was
           damned
           ,
           whose
           Canonization
           the
           Cordeliers
           were
           then
           soliciting
           hard
           at
           Rome
           ;
           and
           that
           the
           Town
           of
           Bern
           would
           be
           destroyed
           for
           harbouring
           such
           plagues
           within
           their
           walls
           .
           When
           the
           injoined
           discipline
           was
           fully
           performed
           ,
           the
           Spirit
           appeared
           again
           ,
           and
           said
           ,
           he
           was
           now
           delivered
           out
           of
           Purgatory
           ,
           but
           before
           he
           could
           be
           admitted
           to
           Heaven
           ,
           he
           must
           receive
           the
           Sacrament
           ,
           having
           died
           without
           it
           ,
           and
           after
           that
           he
           would
           say
           Mass
           for
           those
           ,
           who
           had
           by
           their
           great
           charities
           ●escued
           him
           out
           of
           his
           pains
           .
           The
           Fry●r
           fancied
           the
           ●oice
           resembled
           the
           Priors
           a
           little
           ,
           but
           he
           was
           th●n
           so
           far
           from
           suspecting
           any
           thing
           ,
           that
           he
           gave
           no
           great
           heed
           to
           this
           suspition
           .
           Some
           dayes
           after
           this
           ,
           tbe
           same
           Fryer
           appeared
           as
           a
           Nun
           all
           in
           Glory
           ,
           and
           told
           the
           poor
           Frier
           ,
           that
           she
           was
           St.
           Barbary
           ,
           for
           whom
           he
           had
           a
           particular
           devotion
           ;
           and
           added
           ,
           that
           the
           
             B.
             Virgin
          
           was
           so
           much
           pleased
           with
           his
           charity
           ,
           that
           she
           intended
           to
           come
           and
           visit
           him
           :
           He
           immediately
           called
           the
           Convent
           together
           ,
           and
           gave
           the
           rest
           of
           the
           Fryers
           an
           account
           of
           this
           Apparition
           ,
           which
           was
           entertained
           by
           them
           all
           with
           great
           joy
           ;
           and
           the
           Fryer
           languished
           in
           desires
           of
           the
           accomplishment
           
           of
           the
           promise
           ,
           that
           St.
           Barbara
           had
           made
           him
           .
           After
           some
           dayes
           ,
           the
           longed
           for
           delusion
           appeared
           to
           him
           ,
           clothed
           as
           the
           Virgin
           used
           to
           be
           on
           the
           great
           Feasts
           ,
           and
           indeed
           in
           the
           same
           Habits
           :
           there
           were
           about
           her
           some
           Angels
           ,
           which
           he
           afterwards
           found
           were
           the
           little
           Statues
           of
           Angels
           ,
           which
           they
           set
           on
           the
           Altars
           on
           the
           great
           Holy
           Dayes
           .
           There
           was
           also
           a
           pulley
           fastned
           in
           the
           room
           over
           his
           head
           ,
           and
           a
           cord
           tied
           to
           the
           Angels
           ,
           that
           made
           them
           rise
           up
           in
           the
           Air
           ,
           and
           flie
           about
           the
           Virgin
           ,
           which
           increased
           the
           delusion
           .
           The
           Virgin
           ,
           after
           some
           endearments
           to
           himself
           ,
           extolling
           the
           merit
           of
           his
           charity
           and
           discipline
           ,
           told
           him
           ,
           that
           she
           was
           conceived
           in
           Original
           Sin
           ,
           and
           that
           
             Pope
             Iulius
             the
             Second
          
           ,
           that
           then
           reigned
           ,
           was
           to
           put
           an
           end
           to
           the
           Dispute
           ,
           and
           was
           to
           abolish
           the
           Feast
           of
           her
           Conception
           ,
           which
           
             Six●us
             the
             fourth
          
           had
           instituted
           ,
           and
           that
           the
           Fryer
           was
           to
           be
           the
           Instrument
           of
           perswading
           the
           Pope
           of
           the
           truth
           in
           that
           matter
           :
           She
           gave
           him
           
             three
             drops
          
           of
           her
           Sons
           blood
           ,
           which
           were
           
             three
             tears
          
           of
           blood
           that
           he
           had
           shed
           over
           Ierusalem
           ,
           and
           this
           signified
           that
           she
           was
           
             three
             hours
          
           in
           Original
           Sin
           ,
           after
           which
           she
           was
           ,
           by
           his
           Mercy
           ,
           delivered
           out
           of
           that
           State
           :
           For
           it
           seems
           the
           Dominicans
           were
           resolved
           so
           to
           compound
           the
           matter
           ,
           that
           they
           should
           gain
           the
           main
           point
           of
           her
           Conception
           in
           Sin
           ;
           yet
           they
           would
           comply
           so
           far
           with
           the
           reverence
           for
           the
           Virgin
           ,
           with
           which
           the
           World
           was
           possessed
           ,
           that
           she
           should
           be
           believed
           to
           have
           remained
           a
           very
           short
           while
           in
           that
           State.
           She
           gave
           him
           also
           five
           drops
           of
           Blood
           in
           the
           form
           of
           a
           Cross
           ,
           which
           were
           Tears
           of
           Blood
           ,
           that
           she
           had
           shed
           while
           her
           Son
           was
           on
           the
           Cross.
           And
           ,
           to
           convince
           him
           more
           fully
           ,
           she
           presented
           an
           Hostie
           to
           him
           ,
           that
           appeared
           to
           as
           an
           ordinary
           Hostie
           ,
           and
           of
           a
           sudden
           it
           appeared
           be
           of
           a
           deep
           ●ed
           colour
           .
           The
           cheat
           of
           those
           supposed
           visits
           was
           often
           repeated
           to
           the
           abused
           Fryer
           ;
           at
           last
           the
           Vi●gin●old
           ●old
           him
           ,
           that
           she
           was
           to
           give
           him
           such
           ma●ks
           of
           her
           Sons
           Love
           to
           him
           ,
           that
           the
           matter
           should
           be
           past
           all
           doub●
           .
           
           She
           said
           ,
           that
           the
           five
           wounds
           of
           St.
           Lucia
           ,
           and
           S.
           Catharine
           ,
           were
           real
           wounds
           ,
           and
           that
           she
           would
           also
           imprint
           them
           on
           him
           ;
           so
           she
           bid
           him
           reach
           his
           hand
           ;
           he
           had
           no
           great
           mind
           to
           receive
           a
           favour
           in
           which
           he
           was
           to
           suffer
           so
           much
           :
           but
           she
           forced
           his
           hand
           ,
           and
           struck
           a
           nail
           thro
           it
           ,
           the
           hole
           was
           as
           big
           as
           a
           grain
           of
           pease
           ,
           and
           he
           saw
           the
           Candle
           clearly
           thro
           it
           ;
           this
           threw
           him
           out
           of
           a
           supposed
           transport
           into
           a
           real
           Agony
           ;
           but
           she
           seemed
           to
           touch
           his
           hand
           ,
           and
           he
           thought
           he
           smelt
           an
           Oyntment
           ,
           with
           which
           she
           anointed
           it
           ,
           tho
           his
           Confess●r
           perswaded
           him
           ,
           that
           that
           was
           only
           an
           imagination
           ,
           so
           the
           supposed
           Virgin
           lest
           him
           for
           that
           time
           .
        
         
           The
           next
           night
           the
           Apparition
           returned
           ,
           and
           brought
           some
           linnen
           Clothes
           ,
           which
           had
           some
           real
           or
           imaginary
           vertue
           to
           allay
           his
           Torment
           :
           and
           the
           pretended
           Virgin
           said
           ,
           they
           were
           some
           of
           the
           Linnings
           in
           which
           Christ
           was
           wrapped
           ,
           and
           with
           that
           she
           gave
           him
           a
           soporiferous
           draught
           ,
           and
           while
           he
           was
           fast
           asleep
           ,
           the
           other
           four
           wounds
           were
           ,
           inprinted
           on
           his
           body
           ,
           in
           such
           a
           manner
           that
           he
           felt
           no
           pain
           .
        
         
           But
           in
           order
           to
           the
           doing
           of
           this
           ,
           the
           Friers
           betook
           themselves
           to
           Charms
           ,
           and
           the
           Subpri●r
           shewed
           the
           rest
           a
           book
           full
           of
           them
           ;
           but
           he
           said
           ,
           that
           before
           they
           could
           be
           effectual
           ,
           they
           must
           renounce
           God
           ▪
           and
           he
           not
           only
           did
           this
           himself
           ,
           but
           by
           a
           formal
           act
           put
           in
           writing
           signed
           with
           his
           Blood●
           ,
           he
           dedicated
           himself
           to
           the
           Deyl
           ;
           it
           is
           true
           ,
           he
           did
           not
           oblige
           the
           rest
           to
           this
           ,
           but
           only
           to
           renounce
           God.
           The
           composition
           of
           the
           Draught
           was
           a
           mixture
           of
           some
           Fountain-water
           and
           Chrism
           ,
           the
           Hairs
           of
           the
           Eyebrows
           of
           a
           Child
           ,
           some
           Qui●ksilver
           ,
           some
           grains
           of
           Incense
           ,
           somewhat
           of
           an
           Easter
           Wax
           Candle
           ,
           some
           consecrated
           Salt
           ,
           and
           the
           Blood
           of
           an
           unbaptised
           Child
           .
           This
           Composition
           was
           a
           secret
           ,
           which
           the
           Subprior
           did
           not
           communicate
           to
           the
           other
           Friers
           .
           By
           this
           the
           poor
           Frier
           Ietzer
           was
           made
           almost
           quite
           insensible
           :
           when
           he
           was
           awake
           ,
           and
           came
           out
           of
           this
           deep
           sleep
           ,
           he
           felt
           this
           wonderful
           impression
           on
           his
           body
           :
           and
           now
           he
           was
           ravished
           out
           
           of
           measure
           ,
           and
           came
           to
           fancy
           himself
           to
           be
           acting
           all
           the
           parts
           of
           our
           Saviours
           Passion
           :
           he
           was
           exposed
           to
           the
           people
           on
           the
           great
           Altar
           ,
           to
           the
           amasement
           of
           the
           whole
           Town
           ,
           and
           to
           the
           no
           small
           mortification
           of
           the
           Franciscans
           .
           The
           Dominicans
           gave
           him
           some
           other
           draughts
           that
           threw
           him
           into
           convulsions
           ,
           and
           when
           he
           came
           out
           of
           those
           ,
           a
           voice
           was
           heard
           ,
           which
           came
           thro
           that
           hole
           which
           yet
           remains
           ,
           and
           runs
           from
           one
           of
           the
           Cells
           along
           a
           great
           part
           of
           the
           wall
           of
           the
           Church
           :
           for
           a
           Frier
           spoke
           thro
           a
           pipe
           ,
           and
           at
           the
           End
           of
           the
           hole
           there
           was
           an
           Image
           of
           the
           Virgins
           ,
           with
           a
           little
           Iesus
           in
           her
           arms
           ,
           between
           whom
           and
           his
           mother
           the
           voice
           seemed
           to
           come
           ;
           the
           Image
           also
           seemed
           to
           shed
           Tears
           ,
           and
           a
           Painter
           had
           drawn
           those
           on
           her
           Face
           so
           lively
           ,
           that
           the
           people
           where
           deceived
           by
           it
           .
           The
           little
           Jesus
           askt
           ,
           why
           she
           wept
           ?
           and
           she
           said
           ,
           it
           was
           because
           his
           honour
           was
           given
           to
           her
           ,
           since
           it
           was
           said
           ,
           that
           she
           was
           born
           without
           sin
           ;
           in
           Conclusion
           ,
           the
           Fryers
           did
           so
           over
           act
           this
           matter
           ,
           that
           at
           last
           even
           the
           poor
           deluded
           Fryer
           himself
           came
           to
           discover
           it
           ,
           and
           resolved
           to
           quit
           the
           order
           .
        
         
           It
           was
           in
           vain
           to
           delude
           him
           with
           more
           Apparitions
           ;
           for
           he
           well
           nigh
           kill'd
           a
           Fryer
           that
           came
           to
           him
           personating
           the
           Virgin
           in
           another
           shape
           with
           a
           Crown
           on
           her
           head
           :
           he
           also
           over-heard
           the
           Fryers
           once
           talking
           amongst
           themselves
           ,
           of
           the
           Contrivance
           and
           Success
           of
           the
           imposture
           ,
           so
           plainly
           ,
           that
           he
           discovered
           the
           whole
           Matter
           ,
           and
           upon
           that
           ,
           as
           may
           be
           easily
           imagined
           ,
           he
           was
           filled
           with
           all
           the
           horror
           with
           which
           such
           a
           Discovery
           could
           inspire
           him
           .
        
         
           The
           Fryers
           fearing
           that
           an
           imposture
           ,
           which
           was
           carried
           on
           hitherto
           with
           so
           much
           success
           ,
           should
           be
           quite
           spoiled
           ,
           and
           be
           turned
           against
           them
           ,
           thought
           the
           surest
           way
           was
           to
           own
           the
           whole
           Matter
           to
           him
           ,
           and
           to
           engage
           him
           to
           carry
           on
           the
           Cheat.
           They
           told
           him
           in
           what
           esteem
           he
           would
           be
           ,
           if
           he
           continued
           to
           support
           the
           reputation
           tha●
           he
           had
           acquired
           ,
           that
           he
           would
           become
           the
           chief
           person
           of
           the
           Order
           ;
           and
           in
           the
           end
           they
           persuaded
           him
           to
           go
           on
           with
           the
           Imposture
           :
           but
           at
           last
           ,
           they
           fearing
           lest
           he
           
           should
           discover
           all
           ,
           resolved
           to
           poyson
           him
           ;
           of
           which
           he
           was
           so
           apprehensive
           ,
           that
           once
           a
           Loaf
           being
           brought
           him
           that
           was
           prepared
           with
           some
           spices
           ,
           he
           kept
           it
           for
           some
           time
           ,
           and
           it
           growing
           green
           ,
           he
           threw
           it
           to
           some
           young
           Wolves
           Whelps
           that
           were
           in
           the
           Monastery
           ,
           who
           died
           immediately
           .
           His
           constitution
           was
           also
           so
           vigorous
           ,
           that
           tho
           they
           gave
           him
           Poyson
           five
           several
           times
           ,
           he
           was
           not
           destroyed
           by
           it
           ;
           they
           also
           prest
           him
           earnestly
           to
           renounce
           God
           ,
           which
           they
           judged
           necessary
           ,
           that
           so
           their
           Charms
           might
           have
           their
           effect
           on
           him
           ;
           but
           he
           would
           never
           consent
           to
           that
           :
           at
           last
           they
           forced
           him
           to
           take
           a
           poysoned
           Hostie
           ,
           which
           yet
           he
           vomited
           up
           soon
           after
           he
           had
           swallowed
           it
           down
           ;
           that
           failing
           ,
           they
           used
           him
           so
           cruelly
           ,
           whipping
           him
           with
           an
           iron
           Chain
           ,
           and
           girding
           him
           about
           so
           strait
           with
           it
           ,
           that
           ●o
           avoid
           further
           Torment
           he
           swore
           to
           them
           ,
           in
           a
           most
           imprecating
           stile
           ,
           that
           he
           would
           never
           discover
           the
           secret
           ,
           but
           would
           still
           carry
           it
           on
           ;
           and
           so
           he
           deluded
           them
           till
           he
           sound
           an
           opportunity
           of
           g●tting
           out
           of
           the
           Co●vent
           ,
           and
           of
           throwing
           himself
           in●o
           the
           hands
           of
           the
           Magistr●tes
           ,
           to
           whom
           he
           discovered
           all
           .
        
         
           The
           four
           Fryers
           were
           seised
           on
           ,
           and
           put
           in
           prison
           ,
           and
           an
           account
           of
           the
           whole
           Matter
           was
           sent
           ,
           first
           to
           the
           Bishop
           of
           Lausanne
           ,
           and
           then
           to
           Rome
           ;
           and
           it
           may
           be
           easily
           imagined
           ,
           that
           the
           Franciscans
           took
           all
           possible
           care
           to
           have
           it
           well
           examined
           ;
           the
           Bishop
           of
           Lausan●e
           ,
           and
           of
           Zyon
           ,
           with
           the
           Provin●ial
           of
           the
           D●mi●i●ans
           ,
           were
           ▪
           appointed
           to
           form
           the
           Process
           .
           The
           four
           Fryers
           first
           excepted
           to
           Ietzers
           credit
           ;
           but
           that
           was
           rejected
           :
           then
           being
           threatned
           with
           the
           Question
           ,
           they
           put
           in
           a
           long
           plea
           against
           that
           ;
           but
           tho
           the
           Provincial
           would
           not
           consent
           to
           that
           ,
           yet
           they
           were
           put
           to
           the
           question
           ;
           some
           endured
           it
           long
           ;
           but
           at
           last
           ,
           they
           all
           confessed
           the
           whole
           progress
           of
           the
           Imposture
           .
           The
           Provincial
           appeared
           concerned
           ;
           for
           tho
           Ietzer
           had
           opened
           the
           whole
           Matter
           to
           him
           ,
           yet
           he
           would
           give
           no
           credit
           to
           him
           ;
           on
           the
           contrary
           ,
           he
           Charged
           him
           to
           be
           obedient
           to
           them
           ,
           and
           one
           of
           the
           Friers
           said
           plainly
           ,
           that
           he
           was
           in
           the
           whole
           secret
           ,
           and
           so
           he
           withdrew
           ;
           but
           he
           died
           some
           dayes
           after
           at
           Constance
           ,
           having
           
           poyson'd
           himself
           ,
           as
           was
           believed
           .
           The
           Matter
           lay
           ●sleep
           some
           time
           ,
           but
           a
           year
           after
           that
           ,
           a
           
             Spanish
             Bishop
          
           came
           ,
           authorised
           with
           full
           power
           from
           Rome
           ;
           and
           the
           whole
           Cheat
           being
           fully
           proved
           ,
           the
           four
           Friers
           were
           solemnly
           degraded
           from
           their
           Priesthood
           ,
           and
           Eight
           dayes
           after
           ,
           it
           being
           the
           last
           of
           May
           1509.
           they
           were
           Burnt
           in
           a
           Medow
           ,
           on
           the
           other
           side
           of
           the
           River
           ,
           over
           against
           the
           great
           Church
           ;
           The
           place
           of
           their
           Exe●ution
           was
           shewed
           me
           ,
           as
           well
           as
           the
           Hole
           in
           the
           Wall
           ,
           thro
           which
           the
           V●ice
           was
           Conveyed
           to
           the
           Image
           .
           It
           was
           certainly
           one
           of
           the
           blackest
           ,
           and
           yet
           the
           best
           Carried
           on
           Cheat
           ,
           that
           has
           been
           ever
           known
           ;
           and
           no
           doubt
           had
           the
           poor
           Fryer
           died
           ,
           before
           the
           discovery
           ,
           it
           had
           pas●ed
           down
           to
           posterity
           ,
           as
           one
           of
           the
           greatest
           Miracles
           that
           ever
           was
           ;
           and
           it
           gives
           a
           shrewd
           suspition
           ,
           that
           many
           of
           the
           other
           Miracles
           ,
           of
           that
           Church
           ,
           were
           of
           the
           same
           nature
           ,
           but
           more
           successfully
           finished
           .
        
         
           I
           shall
           not
           entertain
           you
           any
           further
           with
           the
           
             State
             of
             Bern
          
           ,
           but
           shall
           only
           add
           one
           general
           remark
           :
           which
           was
           too
           visible
           not
           to
           be
           observed
           every
           where
           ,
           and
           of
           too
           great
           importance
           not
           to
           deserve
           a
           particular
           reflection
           :
           it
           belongs
           in
           general
           to
           all
           the
           Cantons
           ,
           but
           I
           give
           it
           here
           ,
           because
           I
           had
           more
           occasion
           to
           make
           it
           in
           Bern
           ,
           having
           seen
           it
           more
           ,
           and
           stayed
           longer
           in
           it
           ,
           than
           in
           the
           other
           Cantons
           .
        
         
           Switzerla●d
           lies
           between
           France
           and
           Italy
           ,
           that
           are
           both
           of
           them
           Countries
           incomparably
           more
           Rich
           ,
           and
           better
           furnished
           with
           all
           the
           Pleasures
           and
           Conveniences
           of
           Life
           than
           it
           is
           ;
           and
           yet
           Italy
           is
           almost
           quite
           dis
           peopled
           ,
           and
           the
           people
           in
           it
           are
           reduced
           to
           a
           misery
           ,
           that
           can
           scarce
           be
           imagined
           by
           those
           who
           have
           not
           seen
           it
           ;
           and
           France
           is
           in
           a
           great
           measure
           dispeopled
           ,
           and
           the
           inhabitans
           are
           reduced
           to
           a
           poverty
           that
           appears
           in
           all
           the
           ma●ks
           in
           which
           it
           can
           shew
           it self
           ,
           both
           in
           their
           houses
           ,
           furniture
           ,
           cloths
           and
           looks
           .
        
         
           On
           the
           Contrary
           ,
           Switzerland
           is
           extream
           full
           of
           people
           ,
           and
           in
           several
           places
           in
           the
           Villages
           ,
           as
           well
           
           as
           in
           their
           towns
           ,
           one
           sees
           all
           the
           marks
           he
           can
           look
           for
           of
           Plenty
           and
           Wealth
           ,
           their
           Houses
           and
           windows
           are
           in
           good
           case
           ,
           the
           High
           Wayes
           are
           well
           maintained
           ,
           all
           people
           are
           well
           Clothed
           :
           and
           every
           one
           lives
           at
           his
           ease
           .
           This
           Observation
           surprised
           me
           yet
           more
           in
           the
           Countrey
           of
           the
           Grisons
           ,
           who
           have
           almost
           no
           soil
           at
           all
           ,
           being
           situated
           in
           Valleys
           ,
           that
           are
           almost
           all
           washed
           away
           with
           the
           Torrents
           ,
           that
           fall
           down
           from
           the
           Hills
           ,
           and
           swell
           their
           brooks
           sometimes
           so
           violently
           ,
           and
           so
           suddenly
           ,
           that
           in
           many
           places
           the
           whole
           soil
           is
           washed
           away
           ,
           and
           yet
           those
           Valleys
           are
           well
           peopled
           ,
           and
           every
           one
           lives
           happy
           and
           at
           ease
           ,
           under
           a
           gentle
           Government
           ,
           whilst
           other
           rich
           and
           plentiful
           Countries
           are
           reduced
           to
           such
           Misery
           ,
           that
           as
           many
           of
           the
           inhabitants
           are
           forced
           to
           change
           their
           seats
           ,
           so
           those
           who
           stay
           behind
           ,
           can
           scarce
           live
           and
           pay
           those
           grievous
           Impositions
           that
           are
           laid
           upon
           them
           ;
           the
           
             rude
             people
          
           generally
           ●eason
           very
           simply
           when
           they
           enter
           into
           Speculations
           of
           Government
           ,
           but
           
             they
             feel
             true
             ,
             tho
             they
             argu●
             false
          
           ;
           so
           an
           easy
           Government
           ,
           tho
           joyned
           to
           an
           ill
           soil
           ,
           and
           accompanied
           with
           great
           inconveniences
           ,
           draws
           ,
           or
           at
           least
           keeps
           people
           in
           it
           ;
           whereas
           a
           severe
           Government
           ,
           tho
           in
           generall
           ideas
           it
           may
           appear
           reasonable
           ,
           drives
           its
           subjects
           even
           out
           of
           the
           best
           and
           most
           desirable
           seats
           .
        
         
           In
           my
           way
           from
           Ber●
           to
           this
           place
           I
           passed
           by
           Soloturn
           ,
           and
           I
           came
           thro
           Fri●ourg
           in
           my
           way
           from
           Lausanne
           to
           Bern
           ;
           these
           are
           two
           of
           the
           Chief
           of
           the
           
             Popish
             Ca●tons
          
           ,
           after
           Lucerne
           ,
           and
           one
           sees
           in
           them
           a
           heat
           ,
           and
           bigotry
           beyond
           what
           appears
           either
           in
           France
           or
           Italy
           :
           long
           before
           they
           come
           within
           the
           Church
           doors
           they
           kneel
           down
           in
           the
           Streets
           when
           Mass
           is
           a
           saying
           in
           it
           .
           The
           Im●ges
           are
           also
           extream
           gross
           .
           In
           the
           Chief
           Church
           of
           Soloturn
           there
           is
           an
           Image
           of
           
             God
             the
             Father
          
           ,
           as
           an
           old
           man
           with
           a
           great
           black
           bea●d
           ,
           having
           our
           Saviour
           on
           his
           knees
           ,
           and
           a
           Pigeon
           over
           his
           head
           .
           Here
           also
           begins
           a
           devotion
           at
           the
           Ave-Marybel
           ,
           which
           is
           scarce
           known
           in
           Fra●ce
           ,
           but
           is
           practised
           all
           Italy
           over
           :
           At
           noon
           and
           at
           Sun
           set
           the
           Bell
           rings
           ,
           and
           all
           say
           
           the
           Ave-Mary
           ,
           and
           a
           short
           prayer
           to
           the
           Virgin
           ;
           bu●
           whereas
           in
           Italy
           they
           content
           themselves
           with
           putting
           off
           their
           Hats
           ,
           in
           Switzerland
           they
           do
           for
           the
           most
           par●
           kneel
           down
           in
           the
           Streets
           ;
           which
           I
           saw
           no
           where
           practised
           in
           Italy
           except
           at
           Venice
           ,
           and
           there
           it
           is
           not
           commonly
           done
           .
           But
           notwithstanding
           this
           extream
           bigotry
           ,
           all
           the
           Switzers
           see
           their
           common
           interest
           so
           well
           ,
           that
           they
           live
           in
           a
           very
           good
           unde●standing
           one
           with
           another
           .
           This
           is
           indeed
           chiefly
           owing
           to
           the
           
             Canton
             of
             Lucern
          
           ,
           where
           there
           is
           a
           spirit
           in
           the
           Government
           very
           different
           from
           what
           is
           in
           most
           of
           the
           other
           
             Popish
             Cantons
          
           :
           the
           residence
           of
           the
           
             Spanish
             Ambassador
          
           ,
           and
           of
           the
           Nuntio
           ,
           in
           that
           Town
           ,
           contributes
           also
           much
           to
           the
           preserving
           it
           in
           so
           good
           a
           temper
           ,
           it
           being
           their
           interest
           to
           unite
           Switzerland
           ,
           and
           by
           this
           means
           the
           heat
           and
           indiscretion
           of
           the
           rest
           is
           often
           moderated
           .
           The
           I●suits
           begin
           to
           grow
           as
           powerful
           in
           Switzerland
           as
           they
           are
           elsewhere
           :
           they
           have
           a
           noble
           Colledge
           and
           Chappel
           situated
           in
           the
           best
           place
           of
           Friburg
           .
           It
           is
           not
           long
           since
           they
           were
           received
           at
           Soloturn
           ,
           where
           there
           was
           a
           revenue
           of
           1000
           Livres
           a
           year
           ,
           set
           off
           for
           the
           maintenance
           of
           ten
           of
           them
           ,
           with
           this
           provision
           ,
           that
           they
           should
           never
           exceed
           that
           number
           ;
           but
           where
           they
           are
           once
           settled
           ,
           they
           find
           means
           to
           break
           through
           all
           Limitations
           ;
           and
           they
           are
           now
           become
           so
           rich
           there
           ,
           that
           they
           are
           raising
           a
           Church
           and
           Colledge
           ,
           which
           will
           cost
           before
           it
           is
           finished
           above
           400000.
           
           Livres
           ,
           to
           which
           the
           
             French
             King
          
           gives
           10000
           Livres
           for
           the
           frontis-piece
           :
           For
           this
           being
           the
           C●nton
           in
           which
           his
           Ambassador
           reside●
           ,
           he
           thought
           it
           suteable
           to
           his
           glory
           ,
           to
           have
           a
           monument
           of
           his
           bounty
           raised
           by
           an
           order
           ,
           that
           will
           never
           be
           wanting
           to
           flatter
           their
           b●●●factors
           ,
           as
           long
           as
           they
           find
           their
           account
           in
           it
           .
        
         
           In
           the
           same
           Canton
           there
           is
           an
           Abbey
           that
           has
           100000
           Livres
           of
           revenue
           ;
           there
           is
           also
           a
           ●ery
           rich
           House
           of
           Nuns
           ,
           that
           wear
           the
           Capuchins
           Habit
           ,
           that
           as
           I
           was
           told
           had
           60000
           Livres
           of
           revenu●
           and
           but
           60
           Nuns
           in
           it
           ,
           who
           having
           thus
           1000
           Livr●●
           apiece
           ,
           may
           live
           in
           
           all
           possible
           plenty
           in
           a
           Countrey
           where
           a
           very
           little
           mony
           goes
           a
           great
           way
           :
           But
           that
           which
           surprises
           one
           most
           at
           Soloturn
           ,
           is
           ,
           the
           great
           Fortification
           that
           they
           are
           building
           of
           a
           Wall
           about
           the
           Town
           ,
           the
           noblest
           and
           sol●dest
           that
           is
           any
           where
           to
           be
           seen
           ;
           the
           Stone
           with
           which
           it
           is
           faced
           ,
           is
           a
           sort
           of
           course
           Marble
           ,
           but
           of
           that
           bigness
           ,
           that
           many
           Stones
           are
           10
           foot
           long
           ,
           and
           two
           foot
           of
           breath
           and
           thickness
           :
           But
           tho
           this
           will
           be
           a
           wo●k
           of
           vast
           Expence
           and
           great
           Beauty
           ,
           yet
           it
           would
           signifie
           little
           against
           a
           great
           Army
           that
           would
           attack
           it
           vigorously
           .
           The
           Wall
           is
           finished
           on
           the
           side
           of
           the
           River
           on
           which
           the
           Town
           stands
           ,
           the
           Ditch
           is
           very
           broad
           ,
           and
           the
           Counterscarp
           and
           Glasier
           are
           also
           finished
           ,
           and
           they
           are
           working
           at
           a
           Fort
           on
           the
           other
           side
           of
           the
           River
           ,
           which
           they
           intend
           to
           fortify
           in
           the
           same
           manner
           .
           This
           has
           cost
           them
           near
           two
           millions
           of
           Livres
           ;
           and
           this
           vast
           expence
           has
           made
           them
           often
           repent
           the
           undertaking
           ;
           and
           it
           is
           certain
           ,
           that
           a
           fortification
           that
           is
           a●le
           to
           resist
           the
           rage
           of
           their
           Peasants
           in
           the
           case
           of
           a
           Rebellion
           ,
           is
           all
           that
           is
           needful
           .
           This
           Canton
           has
           two
           Advoyers
           ,
           as
           Bern
           ;
           the
           little
           Council
           consists
           of
           36
           ,
           they
           have
           12
           Bailiages
           belonging
           to
           them
           ,
           which
           are
           very
           profitable
           to
           those
           that
           can
           carry
           them
           ,
           they
           have
           one
           Bursar
           ,
           and
           but
           one
           Banneret
           .
           All
           the
           Cantons
           have
           their
           Bailiages
           ;
           but
           if
           there
           are
           disorders
           at
           Bern
           in
           the
           choice
           of
           their
           Bailifs
           ,
           there
           are
           far
           greater
           among
           the
           
             Popish
             Cantons
          
           ,
           where
           all
           things
           are
           sold
           ,
           as
           a
           
             forreign
             Minister
          
           that
           resides
           there
           told
           me
           ,
           who
           tho
           he
           knew
           what
           my
           Religion
           was
           ,
           did
           not
           stick
           to
           own
           franckly
           to
           me
           ,
           that
           the
           
             Catholick
             Cantons
          
           were
           not
           near
           so
           well
           governed
           as
           the
           Protestant-Cantons
           .
           Justice
           is
           generally
           sold
           among
           them
           ,
           and
           in
           their
           Treaties
           with
           forreign
           Princes
           ,
           they
           have
           sometimes
           taken
           mony
           both
           from
           the
           F●en●h
           and
           
             Spanish
             Ambassadors
          
           ,
           and
           have
           signed
           contradictory
           Articles
           at
           the
           same
           time
           .
        
         
           Baden
           has
           nothing
           in
           it
           that
           is
           remarkable
           ,
           except
           its
           convenient
           situation
           ,
           which
           makrs
           it
           the
           seat
           of
           
           the
           
             general
             Dyet
          
           of
           the
           Cantons
           ,
           tho
           it
           is
           not
           one
           of
           them
           ;
           but
           is
           a
           Bailiage
           that
           belongs
           in
           common
           to
           ei●ht
           of
           the
           ancient
           Cantons
           .
           At
           last
           I
           came
           to
           this
           place
           ,
           which
           as
           it
           is
           the
           first
           and
           most
           honourable
           of
           all
           the
           Cantons
           ,
           so
           with
           relation
           to
           us
           ,
           it
           has
           a
           precedence
           of
           a
           higher
           nature
           ,
           it
           being
           the
           first
           that
           received
           the
           Reformation
           .
        
         
           This
           Cant●n
           is
           much
           less
           than
           Bern
           ,
           yet
           the
           publick
           is
           much
           richer
           :
           they
           reckon
           that
           they
           can
           bring
           50000.
           
           Men
           together
           upon
           24.
           hours
           warning
           ,
           their
           subjects
           live
           happy
           :
           for
           the
           Bailifs
           here
           have
           regulated
           appointments
           ,
           and
           have
           only
           the
           
             hundred
             Penny
          
           of
           the
           fines
           ,
           so
           that
           they
           are
           not
           tempted
           as
           those
           of
           Bern
           are
           ,
           to
           whom
           the
           Fine
           belongs
           entirely
           ,
           to
           strain
           matters
           against
           their
           Subjects
           :
           and
           whereas
           at
           Bern
           the
           constant
           intrigue
           of
           the
           whole
           Town
           is
           concerning
           their
           Bailiages
           ;
           here
           on
           the
           contrary
           ,
           it
           is
           a
           service
           to
           which
           the
           Citizens
           are
           bound
           to
           submit
           according
           to
           their
           Constitution
           ,
           but
           to
           which
           they
           do
           not
           aspire
           .
           The
           Government
           is
           almost
           the
           same
           as
           at
           Bern
           ,
           and
           the
           Magistrate
           that
           is
           called
           the
           Advoyer
           at
           Bern
           ,
           is
           here
           called
           the
           Bourgomaster
           .
           The
           revenue
           of
           the
           State
           is
           here
           justly
           accounted
           for
           ,
           so
           that
           the
           publick
           Purse
           is
           much
           richer
           than
           at
           Bern
           ;
           the
           Arsenal
           is
           much
           better
           furnished
           ,
           and
           the
           Fortifications
           are
           more
           regular
           .
           There
           is
           a
           great
           trade
           stirring
           here
           ;
           and
           as
           their
           Lake
           ,
           that
           is
           24.
           miles
           long
           ,
           and
           about
           two
           or
           three
           Broad
           ,
           supplies
           them
           well
           with
           provisions
           ,
           so
           their
           River
           carries
           their
           Manufacture
           to
           the
           Rhine
           ,
           from
           whence
           it
           is
           conveyed
           as
           they
           please
           .
           One
           of
           their
           Chief
           Manufacturies
           is
           Crape
           ,
           which
           is
           in
           all
           respects
           the
           best
           I
           ever
           saw
           .
           I
           will
           not
           describe
           the
           situation
           of
           the
           Town
           ,
           but
           shall
           content
           my self
           to
           tell
           you
           ,
           that
           it
           is
           extream
           pleasant
           ,
           the
           Countrey
           about
           it
           is
           Moun●anous
           ,
           and
           the
           Winters
           are
           hard
           ;
           for
           the
           L●ke
           freezes
           quite
           over
           ,
           only
           in
           some
           places
           the
           Ice
           never
           lies
           ,
           which
           is
           believed
           a
           mark
           that
           some
           Spr●ngs
           rise
           there
           ,
           which
           cause
           that
           heat
           ;
           so
           also
           in
           the
           Lake
           of
           Geneva
           ,
           tho
           it
           is
           never
           quite
           frozen
           ,
           yet
           great
           flakes
           of
           Ice
           lie
           in
           several
           parts
           ;
           but
           these
           are
           never
           seen
           in
           some
           
           parts
           of
           the
           Lake
           ,
           which
           is
           supposed
           to
           flow
           from
           the
           same
           cause
           .
        
         
           But
           to
           return
           to
           Zurich
           ;
           one
           sees
           here
           the
           true
           ancient
           Simplicity
           of
           the
           Switzers
           ,
           not
           corrupted
           which
           Luxury
           or
           Vanity
           ;
           their
           Women
           not
           only
           do
           not
           converse
           familiarly
           with
           men
           ,
           except
           those
           of
           their
           near
           kindred
           ,
           b●t
           even
           on
           the
           Streets
           do
           not
           make
           any
           returns
           to
           the
           Civility
           of
           Strangers
           ;
           for
           it
           is
           only
           Strangers
           that
           put
           off
           their
           Hats
           to
           Women
           ;
           but
           they
           make
           no
           Courtisies
           :
           and
           here
           ,
           as
           in
           all
           Switzerland
           ,
           Women
           are
           not
           saluted
           ,
           but
           the
           civility
           is
           expressed
           by
           taking
           them
           by
           the
           Hand
           .
           There
           is
           one
           thing
           singular
           in
           the
           constitu●ion
           of
           Zurich
           ,
           that
           is
           ,
           their
           
             little
             Council
          
           consists
           of
           50
           persons
           ,
           but
           there
           sit
           in
           it
           only
           25.
           at
           a
           time
           ,
           and
           so
           the
           
             two
             halves
          
           of
           this
           Council
           ,
           as
           each
           of
           them
           has
           his
           proper
           Bourgomaster
           ,
           have
           also
           the
           Government
           in
           their
           Hands
           by
           turns
           ,
           and
           they
           shift
           every
           six
           months
           ,
           at
           Mid-summer
           and
           at
           Christ-Mass
           .
           The
           whole
           Canton
           is
           divided
           into
           nine
           great
           Bailiages
           ,
           and
           21
           Castellaneries
           ;
           in
           the
           former
           the
           Bailif
           resides
           Constantly
           ;
           but
           the
           Castellan
           ,
           who
           is
           also
           one
           of
           the
           
             gr●at
             Council
          
           ,
           has
           so
           little
           to
           do
           ,
           that
           he
           lives
           at
           Zurich
           ,
           and
           goes
           only
           at
           some
           set
           times
           of
           the
           year
           to
           do
           justice
           .
        
         
           The
           vertue
           of
           this
           Canton
           has
           appeared
           signally
           in
           their
           adhering
           firmly
           to
           the
           antient
           Capitulations
           with
           the
           Fren●h
           ;
           and
           not
           slackening
           in
           any
           Article
           ,
           which
           has
           been
           done
           by
           all
           the
           other
           Cantons
           ,
           where
           mony
           has
           a
           Soveraign
           influence
           :
           but
           here
           it
           has
           never
           prevailed
           .
           They
           have
           converted
           ●he
           ancient
           Revenues
           of
           the
           Church
           more
           generally
           to
           pious
           Uses
           ,
           than
           has
           been
           done
           any
           where
           else
           ,
           that
           I
           know
           of
           .
           They
           have
           many
           Hospitals
           well
           entertained
           ;
           in
           one
           ,
           as
           I
           was
           told
           ,
           there
           was
           650
           poor
           kept
           :
           but
           as
           they
           support
           the
           real
           Charities
           ,
           which
           belong
           to
           such
           endowments
           ,
           so
           they
           despise
           that
           vain
           Magnificence
           of
           Buildings
           ,
           which
           is
           too
           generally
           affected
           elsewhere
           ;
           for
           theirs
           are
           very
           plain
           ;
           and
           
             one
             of
             the
             Government
          
           there
           said
           to
           me
           very
           sensibly
           ,
           
             That
             they
             th●ught
             it
             enough
             to
             maintain
             
             their
             Poor
             as
             Poor
             ;
             and
             did
             not
             judge
             it
             proper
             to
             lodge
             them
             as
             Prin●es
             .
          
        
         
           The
           Dean
           and
           Chapter
           are
           likewise
           still
           continued
           as
           a
           corporation
           ,
           and
           enjoy
           the
           revenues
           which
           they
           had
           before
           the
           Reformation
           ;
           but
           if
           they
           subsist
           plentifully
           ,
           they
           labour
           hard
           ;
           for
           they
           have
           generally
           two
           or
           three
           Sermons
           a
           day
           ,
           and
           at
           least
           one
           :
           the
           first
           begins
           at
           five
           a
           clock
           in
           the
           morning
           .
           At
           Geneva
           ,
           and
           all
           Switserland
           over
           ,
           there
           are
           daily
           Sermons
           ,
           which
           were
           substituted
           upon
           the
           Reformation
           from
           the
           Mass.
           But
           the
           Sermons
           are
           generally
           too
           long
           ,
           and
           the
           Preachers
           have
           departed
           from
           the
           first
           design
           of
           these
           Sermons
           ,
           which
           were
           intended
           to
           be
           an
           explication
           of
           a
           whole
           Chapter
           ,
           and
           an
           exhortation
           upon
           it
           ;
           and
           if
           this
           were
           so
           contrived
           ,
           that
           it
           were
           in
           all
           not
           above
           a
           quarter
           of
           an
           hour
           long
           ,
           as
           it
           would
           be
           heard
           by
           the
           People
           with
           less
           Weariness
           and
           more
           profit
           ,
           so
           it
           would
           be
           a
           vast
           Advantage
           to
           the
           Preachers
           ;
           For
           as
           it
           would
           oblige
           them
           to
           study
           the
           Scriptures
           much
           ,
           so
           having
           once
           made
           themselves
           Masters
           of
           the
           practical
           parts
           of
           the
           Scripture
           ,
           such
           short
           and
           simple
           Discourses
           would
           cost
           them
           less
           pains
           ,
           than
           those
           more
           laboured
           Sermons
           do
           ,
           which
           consume
           the
           greatest
           part
           of
           their
           time
           ,
           and
           too
           often
           to
           very
           little
           purpose
           .
        
         
           Among
           the
           Archives
           of
           the
           Dean
           and
           Chapter
           ,
           there
           is
           a
           vast
           Collection
           of
           Letters
           ,
           written
           either
           to
           Bullinger
           ,
           or
           by
           him
           ;
           they
           are
           bound
           up
           ,
           and
           make
           a
           great
           many
           
             V●lums
             in
             Folio
          
           ,
           and
           out
           of
           these
           no
           doubt
           but
           one
           might
           discover
           a
           great
           many
           particulars
           relating
           to
           the
           
             History
             of
             the
             R●formati●m
          
           :
           For
           as
           Bullinger
           lived
           long
           ,
           so
           he
           was
           much
           esteemed
           .
           He
           procured
           a
           very
           kind
           reception
           to
           be
           given
           to
           some
           of
           our
           
             English
             Exiles
          
           in
           
             Queen
             Maries
          
           Reign
           ,
           in
           particular
           to
           Sands
           ,
           afterwards
           
             Ar●h-Bishop
             of
             York
          
           ;
           to
           Horn
           ,
           afterwards
           
             Bishops
             of
             Win●hester
          
           ;
           and
           to
           
             Iewel
             ,
             Bishop
             of
             Salisbury
          
           .
           He
           gave
           them
           lodgings
           in
           the
           Close
           ,
           and
           used
           them
           with
           all
           possible
           kindness
           ;
           and
           as
           they
           presented
           some
           Silver-Cups
           to
           the
           Colledge
           ,
           with
           ●n
           Inscription
           ,
           acknowledging
           the
           kind
           Reception
           they
           had
           ●ound
           there
           ,
           which
           I
           saw
           ,
           so
           they
           continued
           to
           keep
           a
           
           constant
           Correspondence
           with
           Bullinger
           ,
           after
           the
           happy
           re-establishment
           of
           the
           Reformation
           under
           
             Queen
             Elisabeth
          
           :
           Of
           which
           I
           read
           almost
           a
           
             whole
             Volum
          
           while
           I
           was
           there
           :
           Most
           of
           them
           contain
           only
           the
           general
           news
           ,
           but
           some
           were
           more
           important
           ,
           and
           relate
           to
           the
           Disputes
           then
           on
           foot
           ,
           concerning
           the
           
             Habits
             of
             the
             Clergy
          
           ,
           which
           gave
           the
           first
           beginnings
           to
           our
           unhappy
           Divisions
           :
           and
           by
           the
           Letters
           ,
           of
           which
           I
           read
           the
           Originals
           ,
           it
           appears
           ,
           that
           the
           Bishops
           preserved
           the
           ancient
           Habits
           rather
           in
           compliance
           with
           the
           Queens
           inclinations
           ,
           than
           out
           of
           any
           liking
           they
           had
           to
           them
           ;
           so
           far
           they
           were
           from
           liking
           them
           ,
           that
           they
           plainly
           exprest
           their
           dislike
           of
           them
           .
           Iewel
           ,
           in
           a
           Letter
           bearing
           date
           the
           8.
           of
           February
           1566.
           wishes
           ,
           
             that
             the
             Vestments
             ,
             together
             with
             all
             the
             other
             Remnants
             of
             Popery
             ,
             might
             be
             thrown
             both
             out
             of
             their
             Churches
             ,
             and
             out
             of
             the
             minds
             of
             the
             People
          
           ;
           and
           laments
           the
           Queens
           fixedness
           to
           them
           ,
           so
           that
           she
           would
           suffer
           no
           change
           to
           be
           made
           .
           And
           ,
           in
           Ianuary
           of
           the
           same
           year
           ,
           Sands
           writes
           to
           the
           same
           purpose
           .
           
             Contenditur
             de
             vestibus
             Papisti●is
             utendis
             vel
             non
             utendis
             ,
             dabit
             Deus
             his
             quoque
             finem
             .
             Di●putes
             are
             now
             on
             foot
             concerning
             the
          
           Popish
           Vestments
           ,
           
             whether
             they
             should
             be
             used
             or
             not
             ;
             but
             God
             will
             put
             an
             end
             to
             those
             things
             .
             Horn
             ,
          
           Bishop
           of
           Win●hester
           ,
           went
           further
           ;
           For
           in
           a
           Letter
           ,
           dated
           the
           16th
           of
           Iuly
           ,
           1565.
           
           He
           writes
           of
           the
           Act
           concerning
           the
           Habits
           ,
           with
           great
           regret
           ,
           and
           expresses
           some
           hopes
           that
           it
           might
           be
           repealed
           next
           
             Session
             of
             Parliament
          
           ,
           if
           the
           
             Popish
             Party
          
           did
           not
           hinder
           it
           ;
           and
           he
           seems
           to
           stand
           in
           doubt
           ,
           whether
           he
           should
           conform
           himself
           to
           it
           or
           not
           ;
           upon
           which
           he
           desires
           Bullingers
           Advice
           .
           And
           in
           many
           Letters
           writ
           on
           that
           subject
           ,
           it
           is
           asserted
           ,
           that
           both
           Cranmer
           and
           Ridley
           intended
           to
           procure
           an
           Act
           for
           abolishing
           the
           Habits
           ,
           and
           that
           they
           only
           defended
           their
           Lawfulness
           ,
           but
           not
           their
           Fitness
           ;
           and
           therefore
           they
           blamed
           private
           Persons
           that
           refused
           to
           obey
           the
           Laws
           .
           Grindal
           in
           a
           Letter
           dated
           the
           27th
           of
           August
           ,
           1566.
           writes
           ,
           That
           all
           the
           Bishops
           ,
           who
           had
           been
           beyond
           Sea
           ,
           had
           at
           their
           return
           dealt
           wi●h
           the
           Queen
           to
           let
           the
           matter
           of
           the
           Habits
           fall
           :
           but
           she
           was
           
           so
           prepossessed
           ,
           that
           tho
           they
           had
           all
           endeavoured
           to
           divert
           her
           from
           prosecuting
           that
           matter
           ,
           she
           continued
           still
           inflexible
           .
           This
           had
           made
           them
           resolve
           to
           submit
           to
           the
           Laws
           ,
           and
           to
           wait
           for
           a
           fit
           opportunity
           to
           
             rever●e
             them
          
           .
           He
           laments
           the
           ill
           effects
           of
           the
           opposition
           that
           some
           had
           made
           to
           them
           ,
           which
           had
           extreamly
           irritated
           the
           Queens
           Spirit
           ,
           so
           that
           She
           was
           now
           much
           more
           heated
           in
           those
           matters
           than
           formerly
           ;
           he
           also
           thanks
           Bullinger
           for
           the
           Letter
           that
           he
           had
           writ
           ,
           justifying
           the
           
             Lawful
             use
          
           of
           the
           Habits
           ,
           which
           he
           says
           had
           done
           great
           service
           .
           C●x
           ,
           Bishop
           of
           Ely
           ,
           in
           one
           of
           his
           Letters
           ,
           laments
           the
           a●ersion
           that
           they
           found
           in
           the
           Parliament
           to
           all
           the
           Prop●sitions
           that
           were
           made
           for
           the
           Reformation
           of
           Abuses
           .
           Iewel
           ,
           in
           a
           Letter
           dated
           the
           22th
           of
           May
           1559.
           writes
           ,
           That
           the
           Queen
           refused
           to
           be
           called
           
             Head
             o●
             the
             Church
          
           ,
           and
           adds
           ,
           That
           that
           Title
           could
           not
           be
           justly
           given
           to
           any
           mortal
           ,
           it
           being
           due
           only
           to
           Christ
           ;
           and
           that
           such
           Titles
           had
           been
           so
           much
           abused
           by
           Antichrist
           ,
           that
           they
           ought
           not
           to
           be
           any
           longer
           continued
           .
           On
           all
           these
           Passages
           I
           will
           make
           no
           reflections
           here
           :
           For
           I
           set
           them
           down
           only
           to
           shew
           what
           was
           the
           sense
           of
           our
           Chief
           Church-men
           at
           that
           time
           concerning
           those
           matters
           ,
           which
           have
           since
           engaged
           us
           into
           such
           warm
           and
           angry
           Disputes
           ;
           and
           this
           may
           be
           no
           inconsiderable
           instruction
           to
           one
           ,
           that
           intends
           to
           write
           the
           History
           of
           that
           time
           .
           The
           last
           particular
           ,
           with
           which
           I
           intend
           to
           end
           this
           Letter
           ,
           might
           seem
           a
           little
           too
           learned
           ,
           if
           I
           were
           writing
           to
           a
           less
           knowing
           Man
           than
           your self
           .
        
         
           I
           have
           taken
           some
           pains
           in
           my
           travels
           to
           examin
           all
           the
           Antient
           Manus●ripts
           of
           the
           
             New
             Testament
          
           ,
           concerning
           that
           doubted
           pas●age
           of
           St.
           Iohns
           Epistle
           ,
           
             There
             are
             three
             that
             bear
             witness
             in
             Heaven
             ;
             the
             Father
             ,
             the
             Word
             ,
             and
             the
             Spirit
             ;
             and
             these
             three
             are
             one
             .
             Bullinger
          
           doubted
           much
           of
           it
           ,
           because
           he
           found
           it
           not
           in
           an
           antient
           Latin
           Manuscript
           at
           Zurich
           ,
           which
           seems
           to
           be
           about
           800.
           years
           old
           :
           For
           it
           is
           written
           in
           that
           hand
           that
           began
           to
           be
           used
           in
           
             Charles
             the
             Great
             's
          
           time
           .
           I
           turned
           the
           Manuscript
           ,
           and
           found
           the
           passage
           was
           not
           there
           ;
           but
           this
           was
           certainly
           
           the
           errour
           or
           omission
           of
           the
           Coppier
           :
           For
           before
           the
           
             General
             Epistles
          
           in
           that
           Manuscript
           ,
           the
           
             Preface
             of
             St.
             Ierome
          
           is
           to
           be
           found
           ,
           in
           which
           he
           sayes
           ,
           that
           he
           was
           the
           more
           exact
           in
           that
           Translation
           ,
           that
           so
           he
           might
           discover
           the
           fraud
           of
           the
           Arrians
           ,
           who
           had
           struck
           out
           that
           passage
           concerning
           the
           Trinity
           .
           This
           Preface
           is
           printed
           in
           
             Lira's
             Bible
          
           :
           but
           how
           it
           came
           to
           be
           left
           out
           by
           Erasmus
           in
           his
           Edition
           of
           that
           Father's
           works
           ,
           it
           that
           of
           which
           I
           can
           give
           no
           account
           :
           For
           as
           on
           the
           one
           hand
           ,
           Erasmus's
           sincerity
           ought
           not
           to
           be
           too
           rashly
           censured
           ;
           so
           on
           the
           other
           hand
           ,
           that
           Preface
           being
           in
           all
           the
           Manuscripts
           Antient
           or
           Modern
           of
           those
           Bibles
           that
           have
           the
           other
           Prefaces
           in
           them
           ,
           that
           I
           ever
           yet
           saw
           ,
           it
           is
           not
           easy
           to
           imagin
           what
           made
           Erasmus
           not
           to
           publish
           it
           ;
           and
           it
           is
           in
           the
           Manuscript
           Bibles
           at
           Basil
           ,
           where
           he
           printed
           his
           Edition
           of
           
             S.
             Ieromes
             Works
          
           .
           In
           the
           old
           Manuscript
           Bible
           of
           Geneva
           ,
           that
           seems
           to
           be
           above
           700.
           years
           old
           ,
           both
           the
           Prefa●e
           and
           the
           P●ssage
           are
           extant
           ,
           but
           with
           this
           difference
           from
           the
           common
           Editions
           ,
           that
           the
           common
           Editions
           ●et
           the
           Verse
           concerning
           
             the
             Father
             ,
             the
             Word
             ,
             and
             the
             Spirit
             ,
          
           before
           that
           of
           
             the
             Water
             ,
             the
             Blood
             ,
             and
             the
             Spirit
          
           ;
           which
           comes
           after
           it
           in
           this
           Copy
           :
           And
           that
           I
           may
           in
           this
           place
           end
           all
           the
           Readings
           I
           found
           of
           this
           passage
           in
           my
           Travels
           ,
           there
           is
           a
           Manuscript
           in
           St.
           Mark
           's
           Library
           in
           Venice
           in
           three
           Languages
           ,
           
             Greek
             ,
             Latin
          
           ,
           and
           Arabick
           ,
           that
           seems
           not
           above
           400.
           years
           old
           ,
           in
           which
           this
           passage
           is
           not
           in
           the
           Greek
           ,
           but
           it
           is
           in
           the
           L●tin
           set
           after
           the
           other
           three
           ,
           with
           a
           sicut
           to
           joyn
           it
           to
           what
           goes
           before
           .
           And
           in
           a
           Manuscript
           
             Latin
             Bible
          
           in
           the
           Library
           of
           
             St.
             Laurence
          
           at
           Florence
           ,
           both
           
             St.
             I●romes
             Preface
          
           and
           this
           Passage
           are
           extant
           :
           but
           this
           Passage
           comes
           after
           the
           other
           ,
           and
           is
           pinned
           to
           it
           with
           a
           sicut
           ,
           as
           is
           that
           of
           Venice
           :
           yet
           si●ut
           is
           not
           in
           the
           Geneva
           Manuscript
           .
           There
           are
           two
           Greek
           Manuscripts
           of
           the
           Epistles
           at
           B●sil
           ,
           that
           seem
           to
           be
           about
           500.
           years
           old
           ,
           in
           neither
           of
           which
           this
           passage
           is
           to
           be
           found
           :
           they
           have
           also
           an
           Ancient
           
             Latin
             Bible
          
           ,
           which
           is
           about
           800.
           years
           old
           ,
           in
           which
           tho
           
             St.
             Ierom's
             Prologue
          
           
           is
           inserted
           ,
           yet
           this
           Passage
           is
           wanting
           .
           At
           Stras●●●rg
           I
           saw
           four
           very
           Ancient
           Manuscripts
           of
           the
           
             New
             Testament
          
           in
           Latin
           :
           three
           of
           these
           seemed
           to
           be
           about
           the
           time
           of
           
             Charles
             the
             Great
          
           ,
           but
           the
           fourth
           seemed
           to
           be
           much
           antienter
           ,
           and
           may
           belong
           to
           the
           seventh
           Century
           :
           in
           it
           neither
           the
           Prologue
           nor
           the
           Place
           is
           extant
           :
           but
           it
           is
           added
           at
           the
           foot
           of
           the
           page
           with
           another
           hand
           .
           In
           two
           of
           the
           other
           ,
           the
           Prologue
           is
           extant
           ,
           but
           the
           Place
           is
           no●
           :
           only
           in
           one
           of
           them
           it
           is
           added
           on
           the
           Margin
           .
           In
           the
           fourth
           ,
           as
           the
           Prologue
           is
           extant
           so
           is
           the
           Place
           likewise
           ,
           but
           it
           comes
           after
           the
           verse
           of
           the
           other
           three
           ,
           and
           is
           ●oyned
           to
           it
           thus
           ,
           
             Sicut
             tres
             sunt
             in
             coelo
          
           .
        
         
           It
           seem'd
           strange
           to
           me
           ,
           and
           it
           is
           almost
           incredible
           ,
           that
           in
           the
           
             Vatican
             Library
          
           there
           are
           no
           Antient
           
             Latin
             Bibles
          
           ,
           where
           above
           all
           other
           places
           they
           ought
           to
           be
           lookt
           for
           :
           but
           I
           saw
           none
           above
           400.
           years
           old
           .
           There
           i●
           indeed
           the
           famous
           
             Greek
             Manuscript
          
           of
           great
           value
           ,
           which
           the
           Chanoine
           Shelstrat
           ,
           that
           was
           Library
           keeper
           ,
           asserted
           to
           be
           1400.
           years
           old
           ,
           and
           proved
           it
           by
           the
           great
           similitude
           of
           the
           Characters
           with
           those
           that
           are
           upon
           
             S.
             Hippolites
             Statue
          
           ,
           which
           is
           so
           evident
           ,
           that
           if
           his
           Statue
           was
           made
           about
           his
           time
           ,
           the
           antiquity
           of
           this
           Manuscript
           is
           not
           to
           be
           disputed
           .
           If
           the
           Characters
           are
           not
           so
           fair
           ,
           and
           have
           not
           all
           the
           marks
           of
           Antiquity
           that
           appears
           in
           the
           Kings
           Manuscript
           at
           Iames's
           ,
           yet
           this
           has
           been
           much
           better
           preserved
           ,
           and
           is
           much
           more
           entire
           .
           The
           Passage
           that
           has
           led
           me
           into
           this
           digression
           ,
           is
           not
           to
           be
           found
           in
           the
           
             Vati●an
             Manuscript
          
           ,
           no
           more
           than
           it
           is
           in
           the
           
             Kings
             Manuscript
          
           .
           And
           with
           this
           I
           will
           finish
           my
           account
           of
           Zurich
           .
           The
           
             publick
             Library
          
           is
           very
           noble
           :
           The
           Hall
           in
           which
           it
           is
           placed
           ,
           is
           large
           and
           well
           contrived
           ;
           there
           is
           a
           very
           handsome
           
             Cabinet
             of
             Med●ls
          
           ,
           and
           so
           I
           will
           break
           off
           ;
           but
           when
           I
           have
           gone
           so
           much
           farther
           that
           I
           have
           gathered
           Materials
           for
           another
           Letter
           of
           this
           Volum
           ,
           you
           may
           look
           for
           a
           sec●n●
           entertaiment
           ,
           such
           as
           it
           is
           from
           .
        
         
           
             
               Your
               ,
               &
               ●
            
             .
          
        
         
           
           
             POSTSCRIPT
             .
          
           
             I
             told
             you
             ,
             that
             in
             Bern
             the
             Balliages
             are
             given
             by
             a
             sort
             of
             a
             Ballot
             ,
             which
             is
             so
             managed
             ,
             that
             no
             mans
             Vote
             is
             known
             :
             but
             I
             must
             now
             add
             ,
             that
             since
             I
             was
             fi●st
             there
             ,
             they
             have
             made
             a
             considerable
             regula●ion
             in
             the
             way
             of
             Voting
             ,
             when
             Offices
             are
             to
             be
             given
             ,
             which
             approaches
             much
             nearer
             the
             Ven●tian
             method
             ,
             and
             which
             exposes
             the
             competitors
             more
             to
             chance
             ,
             and
             by
             consequence
             may
             put
             an
             end
             to
             the
             Intrigues
             ,
             that
             are
             so
             much
             in
             use
             for
             obtaining
             those
             Imployments
             .
             There
             is
             a
             number
             of
             Balls
             put
             into
             a
             Box
             ,
             equal
             to
             the
             number
             of
             those
             that
             have
             right
             to
             vote
             ,
             and
             that
             are
             present
             ;
             of
             these
             the
             third
             part
             is
             guilt
             ,
             and
             two
             parts
             are
             only
             silvered
             ,
             so
             every
             one
             takes
             out
             a
             ball
             ;
             but
             none
             can
             vote
             except
             those
             who
             have
             the
             
               guilt
               balls
            
             ;
             so
             that
             hereafter
             a
             man
             may
             have
             more
             than
             two
             thirds
             sure
             ,
             and
             yet
             be
             cast
             in
             a
             competition
             .
          
           
             There
             is
             one
             thing
             for
             which
             the
             Switzers
             ,
             in
             particular
             those
             of
             Bern
             ,
             cannot
             be
             enough
             commended
             ,
             they
             have
             ever
             since
             the
             Perse●ution
             began
             first
             in
             France
             ,
             opened
             a
             Sanctuary
             to
             such
             as
             have
             retired
             thither
             ,
             in
             so
             generous
             and
             so
             Christian
             a
             manner
             ,
             that
             it
             deserves
             all
             the
             honourable
             Remembrances
             that
             can
             be
             made
             of
             it
             :
             such
             Ministers
             and
             others
             ,
             that
             were
             at
             first
             condemned
             in
             France
             ,
             for
             the
             affair
             of
             the
             Cevennes
             ,
             have
             not
             only
             found
             a
             kind
             Reception
             here
             ,
             but
             all
             ●he
             Support
             that
             could
             be
             expected
             ,
             and
             indeed
             much
             more
             than
             could
             have
             been
             in
             reason
             expected
             .
             For
             they
             have
             assigned
             the
             
               French
               Ministers
            
             a
             pen●ion
             of
             
               f●ve
               Crowns
            
             a
             month
             ,
             if
             they
             were
             unmarried
             ,
             and
             have
             increased
             it
             to
             such
             as
             had
             Wife
             and
             Children
             ,
             so
             ●hat
             some
             had
             above
             
               ten
               Crowns
            
             a
             month
             pension
             .
             They
             dispersed
             them
             over
             all
             the
             
               Pais
               de
               Vaud
            
             :
             but
             the
             greatest
             number
             staid
             at
             Lausa●ne
             and
             Vevay
             .
             In
             order
             to
             the
             supporting
             of
             this
             charge
             ,
             the
             Charities
             of
             Zuri●h
             ,
             and
             the
             other
             neighbouring
             
               Protestant
               States
            
             ,
             were
             brought
             hither
             .
             Not
             only
             the
             
               Protestan●
               Cantons
            
             ,
             but
             the
             Gris●ns
             ,
             and
             some
             small
             States
             ,
             that
             are
             under
             the
             protection
             of
             the
             C●nton●
             ,
             
             such
             as
             Neufchastel
             ,
             S.
             Gall
             ,
             and
             some
             others
             ,
             ha●e
             sent
             in
             their
             Charities
             to
             Bern
             ,
             who
             dispence
             them
             wit●
             great
             dis●retion
             ,
             and
             bear
             what
             further
             ●harge
             this
             Relief
             brings
             upon
             them
             ;
             and
             in
             this
             last
             total
             and
             deplo●●ble
             dispersion
             of
             those
             Churches
             ,
             the
             whole
             Country
             h●●
             been
             animated
             with
             such
             a
             Spirit
             of
             Charity
             and
             Co●passion
             ,
             that
             every
             Mans
             house
             and
             purse
             has
             been
             opened
             to
             the
             Re●u●ies
             ,
             that
             have
             passed
             thither
             in
             suc●
             numbers
             ,
             that
             sometimes
             the●e
             have
             been
             above
             2000.
             i●
             Lausanne
             alone
             ,
             and
             of
             these
             there
             were
             at
             one
             ti●●
             near
             200.
             
             Ministers
             ,
             and
             they
             all
             met
             with
             a
             Kindness
             and
             Free-heartedness
             ,
             that
             lookt
             more
             like
             some
             what
             o●
             the
             
               primitive
               Age
            
             revived
             ,
             than
             the
             Degeneracy
             of
             the
             A●●
             in
             which
             we
             live
             .
          
           
             I
             shall
             Conclude
             this
             Postscrips
             ,
             which
             is
             already
             swelled
             to
             the
             bigness
             of
             a
             Letter
             ,
             with
             a
             sad
             Instance
             o●
             the
             Anger
             and
             heat
             that
             rises
             among
             Divines
             concerning
             Matters
             of
             very
             small
             consequence
             .
          
           
             The
             midle
             way
             that
             
               Amirald
               ,
               Daiile
            
             ,
             and
             some
             others
             in
             Fran●e
             took
             in
             the
             matters
             that
             were
             disputed
             i●
             Holland
             ,
             concerning
             the
             Divine
             Decrees
             ,
             and
             the
             extent
             of
             the
             Death
             of
             Christ
             ,
             as
             it
             came
             to
             be
             generally
             followed
             in
             France
             ,
             so
             it
             had
             some
             Assertors
             both
             in
             G●neva
             and
             Switz●rland
             ,
             who
             denied
             the
             Imputation
             of
             
               Adams
               sin
            
             ,
             and
             asserted
             the
             
               Vniversality
               of
               Christ's
               death
            
             ,
             together
             with
             a
             
               sufficient
               Grace
               given
               to
               all
               men
               ,
            
             asserting
             with
             this
             a
             particular
             and
             free
             Decree
             of
             Election
             ,
             with
             an
             efficacious
             Grace
             for
             those
             included
             in
             it
             :
             these
             cam●
             to
             be
             called
             Universalists
             ,
             and
             began
             to
             grow
             very
             considerable
             in
             Geneva
             :
             two
             of
             the
             
               Professors
               o●
               Divini●y
            
             there
             being
             known
             to
             favour
             ●hose
             Opinions
             ,
             Upon
             this
             ,
             those
             who
             adhered
             strictly
             to
             the
             opposit
             Doctrine
             ,
             were
             inflamed
             ,
             and
             the
             Contention
             grew
             to
             that
             height
             ,
             that
             almost
             the
             whole
             Town
             came
             to
             be
             concerned
             ,
             and
             all
             were
             divided
             into
             parties
             .
             If
             upon
             this
             ,
             the
             Magistr●te●
             had
             enjoyned
             silence
             to
             both
             parties
             ,
             they
             had
             certainly
             acted
             wisely
             :
             for
             these
             are
             speculations
             so
             little
             certain
             ,
             and
             so
             little
             essential
             to
             Religion
             ,
             that
             a
             Diversity
             of
             Opinions
             
             ought
             not
             to
             be
             made
             the
             occasion
             of
             Heat
             or
             Faction
             .
             But
             tho
             the
             party
             of
             the
             Vniversalists
             was
             considerable
             in
             G●neva
             ,
             it
             was
             very
             small
             in
             Switzerland
             ,
             therefore
             some
             Divines
             there
             ,
             that
             adhered
             to
             the
             old
             received
             Doctrine
             ,
             drew
             up
             some
             Articles
             ,
             in
             which
             all
             these
             Doctrines
             were
             not
             only
             condemned
             ,
             together
             with
             some
             Speculations
             ,
             that
             were
             asserted
             concerning
             
               Adams
               Immortality
            
             ,
             and
             other
             qualities
             belonging
             to
             the
             state
             of
             Innocency
             ;
             but
             because
             Cap●l
             and
             some
             other
             Criticks
             had
             not
             only
             asserted
             the
             novelty
             of
             the
             points
             ,
             but
             had
             taken
             the
             liberty
             to
             correct
             the
             reading
             of
             the
             Hebrew
             ,
             supposing
             that
             some
             errors
             had
             been
             committed
             by
             the
             Coppiers
             of
             the
             Bible
             ,
             both
             in
             the
             Vowels
             and
             Consonants
             ,
             in
             opposition
             to
             this
             ,
             they
             condemned
             all
             corrections
             of
             the
             
               Hebrew
               Bible
            
             ,
             and
             asserted
             the
             Antiquity
             of
             the
             Points
             ,
             or
             at
             least
             of
             the
             power
             and
             reading
             according
             to
             them
             ;
             by
             which
             ,
             tho
             they
             did
             not
             engage
             all
             to
             be
             of
             Buxtors's
             opinion
             ,
             as
             to
             the
             Antiquity
             of
             the
             points
             ,
             yet
             they
             shut
             the
             door
             against
             all
             Corrections
             of
             the
             present
             Punctuation
             :
             If
             this
             consent
             of
             Doctrine
             (
             for
             so
             they
             termed
             it
             )
             had
             been
             made
             only
             the
             Standard
             ,
             against
             which
             no
             man
             might
             have
             taught
             ,
             without
             incurring
             censures
             ,
             tbe
             severity
             had
             been
             more
             tolerable
             :
             but
             they
             obliged
             all
             such
             as
             should
             be
             admitted
             either
             to
             the
             Ministry
             .
             or
             to
             a
             Professors
             Chair
             ,
             to
             sign
             
               sic
               sentio
            
             ,
             so
             ●
             think
             ;
             and
             this
             being
             so
             setled
             at
             Bern
             and
             Zurich
             ,
             it
             was
             also
             carried
             by
             their
             authority
             at
             Geneva
             :
             but
             for
             those
             in
             office
             ,
             the
             M●derator
             and
             C●erk
             signed
             it
             in
             all
             their
             names
             :
             and
             thus
             they
             were
             not
             contended
             to
             make
             only
             a
             Regulation
             in
             those
             Matters
             ,
             but
             they
             would
             needs
             ,
             according
             to
             a
             maxim
             that
             hath
             been
             so
             often
             fatal
             to
             the
             Church
             ,
             enter
             into
             peoples
             Cons●iences
             ,
             and
             either
             shut
             out
             Young
             Men
             from
             Imployments
             ,
             or
             impose
             a
             Test
             upon
             them
             ,
             which
             perha●s
             some
             have
             signed
             not
             without
             Struglings
             in
             their
             Conscience
             .
             Yet
             some
             that
             set
             on
             this
             Test
             or
             Consent
             ▪
             are
             men
             of
             such
             extraordinary
             Worth
             ,
             that
             I
             am
             confident
             
             they
             have
             acted
             in
             this
             matter
             out
             of
             a
             sincere
             zeal
             for
             that
             which
             they
             believe
             to
             be
             the
             Truth
             :
             only
             I
             wi●●
             they
             had
             larger
             and
             freer
             Souls
             .
          
           
             The
             only
             considerable
             Tax
             under
             which
             the
             
               Switze●
               ▪
            
             lie
             ,
             is
             ,
             that
             when
             Estates
             are
             sold
             ,
             the
             fifth
             part
             of
             the
             price
             belongs
             to
             the
             Publick
             ,
             and
             all
             the
             Abatement
             th●●
             the
             B●ilif
             can
             make
             ,
             is
             to
             bring
             it
             to
             a
             sixth
             part
             ;
             this
             the●
             call
             the
             Lod
             ,
             which
             is
             derived
             from
             Alodium
             :
             only
             ther●
             are
             some
             Lands
             that
             are
             
               Frank
               alod
            
             ,
             whi●h
             lie
             no●
             under
             this
             Tax
             :
             but
             this
             falling
             only
             on
             the
             Sellers
             of
             Estat●s
             ,
             〈◊〉
             was
             thought
             a
             just
             Punishment
             ,
             and
             a
             wise
             Restraint
             o●
             ill
             Husbands
             of
             their
             Estates
             .
          
           
             I
             was
             the
             more
             confirmed
             in
             the
             account
             I
             have
             give●
             you
             of
             the
             derivation
             of
             Advoyer
             ,
             when
             I
             found
             that
             i●
             some
             small
             Towns
             in
             the
             Canton
             of
             Bern
             ,
             the
             chief
             Magistrate
             is
             still
             so
             called
             :
             as
             in
             Payerne
             ,
             so
             that
             I
             make
             no
             doubt
             ,
             but
             as
             the
             Antient
             Magistrates
             in
             the
             time
             of
             the
             Romans
             ,
             that
             were
             to
             give
             an
             account
             of
             the
             Town
             ,
             were
             called
             Advocates
             ,
             and
             afterwards
             the
             Iudge
             i●
             Civil
             Matters
             ,
             that
             was
             named
             by
             the
             Bishops
             ,
             was
             called
             at
             first
             Advocat
             ,
             and
             afterwards
             Vidam
             or
             Vi●edom●nus
             ;
             so
             this
             was
             the
             Title
             thas
             was
             still
             continued
             in
             Bern
             ,
             while
             they
             were
             under
             the
             Austrian
             and
             German
             yoke
             ,
             and
             was
             preserved
             by
             them
             when
             they
             threw
             it
             off
             .
          
           
             I
             have
             perhaps
             toucht
             too
             slightly
             the
             last
             Difference
             that
             was
             in
             Switzerland
             ,
             which
             related
             to
             the
             Canton
             o●
             Glaris
             .
             In
             the
             Canton
             of
             Apenzell
             ,
             as
             the
             two
             Religio●
             are
             tolerated
             ,
             so
             they
             are
             separated
             in
             different
             quarter●
             ▪
             those
             of
             one
             Religion
             have
             the
             one
             half
             of
             the
             Canton
             ,
             an●
             those
             of
             the
             other
             Religion
             have
             the
             other
             half
             ,
             so
             they
             live
             apart
             :
             but
             in
             Glaris
             they
             are
             mixt
             :
             and
             now
             the
             number
             of
             the
             Papists
             is
             become
             very
             low
             ;
             one
             assured
             me
             ,
             there
             were
             not
             above
             200.
             
             Families
             of
             that
             Religion
             ,
             and
             those
             are
             also
             so
             poor
             ,
             that
             their
             necessities
             dispose
             some
             o●
             them
             every
             day
             to
             change
             their
             Religion
             .
             The
             other
             
               P●pish
               Cantons
            
             ,
             seeing
             the
             danger
             of
             losing
             their
             interest
             entirely
             in
             that
             Canton
             ,
             and
             being
             set
             on
             by
             the
             intrigues
             o●●
             Court
             ,
             that
             has
             understood
             well
             the
             policy
             of
             imbroiling
             
             ●ll
             other
             States
             ,
             made
             great
             use
             of
             some
             complaints
             that
             were
             brought
             by
             the
             Papists
             of
             Glaris
             ,
             as
             if
             the
             prevailing
             of
             the
             other
             Religion
             exposed
             them
             to
             much
             injustice
             and
             oppression
             ;
             and
             upon
             that
             they
             proposed
             ,
             that
             the
             Can●on
             should
             be
             equally
             divided
             into
             two
             halves
             ,
             as
             Appenz●l
             was
             :
             this
             was
             extreamly
             unjust
             ,
             since
             the
             Papists
             were
             not
             the
             tenth
             ,
             or
             perhaps
             the
             twentieth
             part
             of
             the
             Cant●n
             .
             It
             is
             true
             ,
             it
             was
             so
             situated
             in
             the
             midst
             of
             the
             
               Popish
               Cantons
            
             ,
             that
             the
             
               Protestant
               Cantons
            
             could
             not
             easily
             come
             to
             their
             assistance
             :
             but
             those
             of
             Glaris
             resolved
             to
             dye
             rather
             than
             suffer
             this
             injustice
             ,
             and
             the
             
               Prot●st●nt
               Cantons
            
             resolved
             to
             engage
             in
             a
             war
             with
             the
             
               Popish
               Cantons
            
             ,
             if
             they
             imposed
             this
             matter
             on
             their
             Brethren
             of
             Glaris
             :
             at
             last
             this
             temper
             was
             found
             ,
             that
             in
             all
             suits
             of
             law
             between
             those
             of
             different
             Religions
             ,
             two
             thirds
             of
             the
             Iudges
             should
             be
             alwayes
             of
             the
             Religion
             of
             the
             defendant
             ;
             but
             while
             this
             Contest
             was
             on
             foot
             ,
             those
             ,
             who
             as
             is
             believed
             ,
             fomented
             it
             ,
             if
             they
             did
             not
             set
             it
             on
             ,
             knew
             how
             to
             make
             their
             Advantage
             of
             the
             Conjuncture
             ;
             for
             then
             was
             the
             Fortification
             of
             Hunningen
             at
             the
             Ports
             of
             Basil
             much
             advanced
             ,
             of
             the
             importance
             of
             which
             ,
             they
             are
             now
             very
             apprehensive
             when
             it
             is
             too
             late
             .
             There
             are
             six
             
               Noble
               Families
            
             in
             Bern
             ,
             that
             have
             still
             this
             priviledge
             ,
             that
             when
             any
             of
             them
             is
             chosen
             to
             be
             of
             the
             Council
             ,
             they
             take
             place
             before
             all
             the
             Ancient
             Councellors
             ,
             whereas
             all
             the
             rest
             take
             place
             according
             to
             the
             Order
             in
             which
             they
             were
             chosen
             to
             be
             of
             the
             Council
             .
          
        
      
       
         
         
           THE
           SECOND
           LETTER
           .
        
         
           
             Millan
             ,
             
               the
               first
               of
               October
               ,
               1685.
               
            
          
        
         
           AFTER
           a
           short
           stay
           at
           Zurich
           ,
           we
           went
           dow●
           the
           Lake
           ,
           where
           we
           past
           under
           the
           Bridge
           a●
           Ripperswood
           ,
           which
           is
           a
           very
           noble
           Work
           for
           such
           a
           Countrey
           ;
           the
           Lake
           is
           there
           about
           half
           a
           mile
           broad
           ,
           the
           Bridge
           is
           about
           twelve
           foot
           broad
           ,
           bu●
           hath
           no
           Rails
           on
           either
           side
           ,
           so
           that
           if
           the
           wind
           blow●
           hard
           ,
           which
           is
           no
           extraordinary
           thing
           there
           ,
           a
           man
           is
           in
           great
           danger
           of
           being
           blown
           into
           the
           Lakes
           :
           and
           this
           same
           defect
           I
           found
           in
           almost
           all
           the
           Bridges
           of
           Lombardy
           ,
           which
           seemed
           very
           strange
           ;
           for
           since
           that
           Defence
           is
           made
           upon
           so
           small
           an
           Expence
           ,
           it
           was
           amazing
           to
           see
           Bridges
           so
           naked
           :
           and
           that
           was
           more
           surprizing
           in
           some
           places
           ,
           where
           the
           Bridges
           are
           both
           high
           and
           long
           :
           yet
           I
           never
           heard
           of
           any
           mischief
           that
           followed
           on
           this
           ;
           but
           those
           are
           sober
           Countreys
           ,
           where
           drinking
           is
           not
           much
           in
           use
           .
           After
           two
           dayes
           journey
           ,
           we
           came
           to
           Coire
           ,
           which
           is
           the
           chief
           Town
           of
           the
           Grisons
           ,
           and
           where
           we
           found
           a
           general
           Diet
           of
           the
           
             three
             Leagues
          
           sitting
           ,
           so
           that
           having
           staid
           ten
           dayes
           there
           ,
           I
           came
           to
           be
           informed
           of
           a
           great
           many
           particulars
           concerning
           those
           Leagues
           ,
           which
           are
           not
           commonly
           known
           :
           The
           To●n
           is
           but
           little
           ,
           and
           may
           contain
           between
           four
           and
           five
           thousand
           Souls
           ;
           it
           lies
           in
           a
           bottom
           ,
           upon
           a
           small
           brook
           ,
           that
           a
           little
           below
           the
           Town
           falls
           into
           the
           Rhine
           .
           It
           is
           environed
           with
           Mountains
           of
           all
           hands
           ,
           so
           that
           they
           have
           a
           very
           short
           Summer
           ;
           for
           the
           Snow
           is
           not
           melted
           till
           May
           or
           Iune
           ;
           and
           it
           began
           to
           Snow
           in
           September
           
           when
           I
           was
           there
           .
           On
           a
           rising
           ground
           at
           the
           East
           ●nd
           of
           the
           Town
           is
           the
           Cathedral
           ,
           ●he
           
             Bishops
             Pallace
          
           ,
           ●nd
           the
           Close
           ,
           where
           the
           D●an●nd
           ●nd
           six
           Pre●endaries●ive
           ●ive
           ;
           all
           within
           the
           Close
           are
           Papists
           ,
           but
           all
           the
           Town●re
           ●re
           Protestants
           ,
           and
           they
           live
           pretty
           neighbourly
           toge●her
           .
           Above
           a
           quarter
           of
           a
           mile
           high
           in
           the
           Hill
           ,
           one
           goes
           up
           by
           a
           steep
           ascent
           to
           
             Saint
             Lucius
          
           Chappel
           ;
           My
           curiosy
           carried
           me
           thither
           :
           Tho
           I
           gave
           no
           faith
           to
           the
           legend
           of
           
             King
             Lucius
          
           ,
           and
           of
           his
           coming
           so
           far
           from
           home
           ●o
           be
           the
           Apostle
           of
           the
           Grisons
           .
           His
           Chappel
           is
           a
           lit●le
           Vault
           about
           ten
           foot
           square
           ,
           where
           there
           is
           an
           Altar
           ,
           and
           where
           Mass
           is
           said
           upon
           some
           great
           Festivals
           ;
           it
           is
           situated
           under
           a
           natural
           Ar●h●hat
           ●hat
           is
           in
           the
           Rock
           ,
           which
           was
           thought
           proper
           ●o
           be
           given
           out
           to
           have
           been
           the
           Cell
           of
           a
           Hermit
           :
           ●rom
           it
           some
           drops
           of
           a
           small
           Fountain
           fall
           down
           near
           the
           Chappel
           ;
           the
           Bishop
           assured
           me
           it
           had
           a
           miraculous
           vertue
           for
           weak-eyes
           ,
           and
           that
           it
           was
           Oily
           ;
           but
           neither
           taste
           nor
           feeling
           could
           discover
           to
           me
           any
           Oilyness
           :
           I
           believe
           it
           may
           be
           very
           good
           for
           the
           Eyes
           ,
           as
           all
           Rock-Water
           is
           ;
           but
           when
           I
           offered
           to
           shew
           the
           good
           old
           Bishop
           ,
           that
           the
           legend
           of
           Lucius
           was
           a
           Fable
           in
           all
           the
           parts
           of
           it
           ,
           but
           most
           remarkably
           in
           that
           which
           related
           to
           the
           G●isons
           ,
           and
           that
           we
           had
           no
           Kings
           in
           Britain
           at
           that
           time
           ,
           but
           were
           a
           Province
           to
           the
           Romans
           ,
           that
           no
           ancient
           Authors
           speak
           of
           it
           ,
           Bede
           being
           the
           first
           that
           mentions
           it
           ;
           and
           that
           the
           pretended
           Letter
           to
           
             Pope
             Eleutherius
          
           ,
           together
           with
           his
           answer
           ,
           has
           evident
           characters
           of
           Forgery
           in
           it
           ,
           all
           this
           signified
           nothing
           to
           the
           Bishop
           ,
           who
           assured
           me
           ,
           that
           they
           had
           a
           Tradition
           of
           that
           in
           their
           Church
           ;
           and
           it
           was
           inserted
           in
           their
           Breviary
           ,
           which
           he
           firmly
           believed
           :
           he
           also
           told
           me
           the
           other
           legend
           of
           Lucius's
           sister
           S.
           Emerita
           ,
           who
           was
           burnt
           there
           ,
           and
           of
           whose
           Veil
           there
           was
           yet
           a
           considerable
           remnant
           reserved
           among
           their
           Reliques
           :
           I
           confess
           ,
           I
           never
           saw
           a
           Relique
           so
           ill
           disguised
           ;
           for
           it
           is
           a
           piece
           o●
           worn
           Linnen
           Cloath
           lately
           washt
           ,
           and
           the
           burning
           did
           not
           seem
           to
           be
           a
           month
           old
           ;
           and
           yet
           when
           they
           
           took
           it
           out
           of
           the
           Case
           ,
           to
           shew
           it
           me
           ,
           there
           were
           some
           there
           that
           with
           great
           devotion
           rub'd
           their
           beads
           upon
           it
           .
           The
           Bishop
           had
           some
           contests
           with
           his
           Dean
           ,
           and
           being
           〈◊〉
           Prin●e
           of
           the
           Empire
           ,
           he
           had
           proscribed
           him
           :
           the
           De●●
           had
           also
           behaved
           himself
           so
           insolently
           ,
           that
           by
           an
           orde●
           of
           the
           Diet
           ,
           to
           which
           even
           the
           Bishop
           ,
           as
           was
           believed
           ,
           consented
           ,
           he
           was
           put
           in
           Prison
           as
           he
           came
           out
           of
           the
           Cathedral
           .
           By
           the
           common
           consent
           both
           of
           the
           Popi●●
           and
           Protestant
           Communities
           ,
           a
           Law
           was
           long
           ago
           made
           against
           
             E●●lesiastical
             Immunities
          
           :
           this
           attempt
           on
           ●he
           Dean
           was
           made
           four
           years
           ago
           ;
           as
           soon
           as
           he
           was
           let
           o●●
           he
           went
           to
           Rome
           ,
           and
           made
           great
           complaints
           o●
           the
           Bishop
           ,
           and
           it
           was
           thought
           the
           
             Popish
             party
          
           intended
           to
           mo●e
           in
           the
           Diet
           while
           we
           were
           there
           ●or
           the
           repealing
           of
           th●●
           Law
           ,
           but
           they
           did
           it
           not
           .
           The
           foundation
           of
           ●he
           Quar●●
           between
           the
           Bishop
           and
           Dean
           was
           the
           Exemptions
           to
           which
           the
           Dean
           and
           Chapter
           pretended
           ,
           and
           upon
           which
           the
           B●sh●p
           made
           some
           Invasion
           :
           Upon
           which
           I
           took
           occasion
           ●o
           shew
           him
           the
           novelty
           of
           those
           Exemptions
           ,
           and
           that
           in
           the
           primitive
           Church
           it
           was
           believed
           ,
           that
           the
           Bishop
           had
           the
           Authority
           over
           his
           Presbyters
           by
           a
           divine
           right
           ;
           and
           if
           it
           was
           by
           a
           Divine
           Right
           ,
           then
           the
           Pop●
           could
           not
           exempt
           them
           from
           his
           obedience
           :
           but
           the
           Bishop
           would
           not
           carry
           the
           matter
           so
           high
           ,
           and
           contented
           himself
           with
           two
           maxims
           ;
           the
           one
           was
           ,
           That
           the
           Bishop
           was
           Christ's
           Vicar
           in
           his
           Diocess
           ;
           and
           the
           other
           was
           ▪
           That
           what
           the
           Pope
           was
           in
           the
           
             Catholick
             Church
          
           ,
           the
           Bishop
           was
           the
           same
           in
           his
           Diocess
           .
        
         
           He
           was
           a
           good-natured
           Man
           ,
           and
           did
           not
           make
           use
           o●
           the
           great
           Authority
           that
           he
           has
           over
           the
           Papists
           there
           ,
           to
           set
           them
           on
           to
           live
           uneasily
           with
           their
           neighbours
           of
           another
           Religion
           .
           That
           Bishop
           was
           antiently
           a
           great
           Prince
           ;
           and
           the
           greatest
           part
           of
           the
           League
           ,
           that
           carries
           still
           the
           name
           of
           the
           
             House
             of
             God
          
           ,
           belonged
           to
           him
           ;
           tho
           I
           was
           assured
           that
           Pregallia
           ,
           one
           of
           those
           Communities
           ,
           was
           ●
           
             ●ree
             State
          
           above
           six
           hundred
           years
           ago
           ,
           and
           that
           they
           have
           Records
           yet
           extant
           that
           prove
           this
           :
           The
           other
           Communities
           of
           this
           League
           bought
           their
           liberties
           from
           several
           Bi●hops
           
           some
           considerable
           time
           before
           the
           Reformation
           ,
           of
           which
           the
           Deeds
           are
           yet
           extant
           ;
           so
           th●t
           it
           is
           an
           impudent
           ●hing
           to
           say
           ,
           as
           some
           have
           done
           ,
           that
           they
           shook
           off
           his
           Yoke
           at
           that
           time
           .
        
         
           The
           Bishop
           hath
           yet
           reserved
           a
           Revenue
           of
           about
           one
           
             thousand
             pound
             Sterling
          
           a
           Year
           ,
           and
           every
           one
           of
           the
           Preb●ndaries
           hath
           near
           two
           
             hundred
             pound
          
           a
           Year
           .
           It
           is
           not
           easie
           to
           imagin
           out
           of
           what
           the
           Riches
           of
           this
           Country
           is
           raised
           ;
           for
           one
           sees
           nothing
           but
           a
           tract
           of
           vast
           Mountains
           ,
           that
           seem
           barren
           Rocks
           ,
           and
           some
           lit●le
           Vallies
           among
           them
           not
           a
           mile
           broad
           ,
           and
           the
           best
           part
           of
           these
           is
           washed
           away
           by
           the
           Rhine
           ,
           and
           some
           Brooks
           that
           fall
           into
           it
           :
           but
           their
           wealth
           consists
           chiefly
           in
           their
           Hills
           ,
           which
           afford
           much
           pasture
           ;
           and
           in
           the
           hot
           months
           ,
           in
           which
           all
           ●he
           Pasture
           of
           Italy
           is
           generally
           parched
           ,
           the
           Cattle
           are
           driven
           into
           these
           Hills
           ,
           which
           brings
           them
           in
           a
           Revenue
           of
           above
           two
           
             hundred
             thousand
             Crowns
          
           a
           Year
           .
           The
           Publick
           is
           indeed
           very
           poor
           ,
           but
           particular
           persons
           are
           so
           rich
           ,
           that
           I
           knew
           a
           great
           many
           there
           ,
           who
           were
           believed
           to
           have
           Estates
           to
           the
           value
           of
           one
           
             hundred
             thousand
             Crowns
          
           .
           Mr.
           Schovestein
           ,
           that
           is
           accounted
           the
           richest
           man
           in
           the
           Country
           ,
           is
           believed
           to
           be
           worth
           a
           Million
           ,
           I
           mean
           of
           Livres
           .
           The
           Government
           here
           is
           purely
           a
           Commonwealth
           ;
           for
           in
           the
           choice
           of
           their
           Magistrates
           ,
           every
           man
           that
           is
           above
           sixteen
           Years
           old
           hath
           his
           Voice
           ,
           which
           is
           also
           the
           constitution
           of
           some
           of
           the
           small
           Cantons
           .
           The
           
             Three
             Leagues
          
           are
           ,
           the
           League
           of
           the
           Grisons
           ,
           that
           of
           the
           
             House
             of
             God
          
           ,
           and
           that
           of
           the
           ten
           Iurisdictions
           .
        
         
           They
           believe
           ,
           that
           upon
           the
           incursions
           of
           the
           Goths
           and
           Vandals
           ,
           as
           some
           fled
           to
           the
           
             Venetian
             Islands
          
           ,
           out
           of
           which
           arose
           that
           famous
           Common-wealth
           ;
           so
           others
           came
           and
           sheltred
           themselves
           in
           those
           Valleys
           .
           They
           told
           me
           of
           an
           ancient
           inscription
           lately
           found
           ,
           of
           a
           Stone
           where
           on
           the
           one
           side
           is
           graven
           ,
           
             Omitto
             Rhetos
             Indomitos
          
           ,
           and
           
             ne
             plus
             ultra
          
           is
           on
           the
           other
           ;
           which
           they
           pretend
           was
           made
           by
           
             Iulius
             Caesar
          
           :
           the
           Stone
           on
           which
           this
           inscription
           is
           ,
           is
           upon
           one
           of
           their
           Mountains
           ;
           but
           I
           did
           not
           pass
           that
           way
           ,
           so
           I
           can
           make
           no
           judgment
           concerning
           it
           .
           After
           the
           first
           
           ●orming
           of
           this
           people
           ,
           they
           were
           cast
           into
           little
           States
           ,
           according
           to
           the
           different
           Valleys
           which
           they
           inhabited
           ,
           and
           in
           which
           Justice
           was
           administred
           ,
           and
           so
           they
           fell
           under
           the
           power
           of
           some
           little
           Princes
           ,
           that
           became
           severe
           Masters
           ;
           but
           when
           they
           saw
           the
           Example
           that
           the
           Switzers
           had
           set
           them
           ,
           in
           shaking
           off
           the
           Austrian
           Yoke
           ,
           above
           two
           hundred
           years
           ago
           ,
           they
           likewise
           combined
           to
           shake
           off
           theirs
           ;
           only
           some
           few
           of
           those
           small
           Princes
           used
           their
           authority
           better
           ,
           and
           con●urred
           wi●h
           the
           people
           in
           shaking
           off
           the
           Yoke
           ,
           and
           so
           they
           are
           still
           parts
           of
           the
           Body
           ;
           only
           Haldenstein
           is
           an
           absolute
           Soveraignty
           ;
           it
           is
           about
           two
           miles
           from
           Coire
           to
           the
           West
           ,
           of
           the
           other
           side
           of
           the
           Rhine
           ;
           the
           whole
           Territory
           is
           about
           half
           a
           mile
           long
           at
           the
           foot
           of
           the
           Alps
           ,
           whe●●
           there
           is
           scarce
           any
           breadth
           .
           The
           authority
           of
           these
           Baro●●
           was
           formerly
           more
           absolute
           that
           it
           is
           now
           ;
           for
           the
           Subjects
           were
           their
           Slaves
           :
           but
           to
           keep
           together
           the
           li●●l●
           Village
           ,
           they
           have
           granted
           them
           a
           power
           of
           naming
           a
           list
           for
           their
           Magistrates
           ,
           the
           person
           being
           to
           be
           named
           by
           the
           Baron
           ;
           who
           hath
           also
           the
           Right
           of
           Pardoning
           ,
           a
           Right
           of
           Coyning
           ,
           and
           every
           thing
           also
           that
           belongs
           to
           a
           Soveraign
           .
           I
           saw
           this
           little
           Prince
           in
           Coire
           ,
           in
           an
           Equipage
           not
           suitable
           to
           his
           Quality
           ;
           for
           he
           was
           in
           all
           poin●●
           like
           a
           very
           ordinary
           Gentleman
           .
           There
           are
           three
           other
           Baronies
           that
           are
           Members
           of
           the
           Diet
           ,
           and
           subject
           to
           it
           ;
           the
           chief
           belonged
           to
           the
           Ar●h-Duke
           o●
           Inch-pruck
           ;
           the
           other
           two
           belong
           to
           Mr.
           Schoven-stain
           and
           Mr.
           
             de
             Mont
          
           ▪
           they
           are
           the
           Heads
           of
           those
           Communities
           of
           which
           their
           Bar●nies
           are
           composed
           ;
           they
           name
           the
           Magistrates
           out
           of
           the
           lists
           that
           are
           presented
           to
           them
           by
           their
           Subjects
           ;
           &
           they
           have
           the
           right
           of
           pardoning
           &
           of
           con●iscations
           :
           That
           belonging
           to
           the
           House
           of
           A●stria
           is
           the
           biggest
           ,
           it
           hath
           five
           voices
           in
           the
           Diet
           ,
           and
           i●
           can
           raise
           twelve
           hundred
           Men.
           One
           Trav●rs
           bought
           it
           o●
           the
           Emperor
           in
           the
           year
           1679.
           he
           entred
           upon
           the
           Righ●
           of
           the
           ancient
           Barons
           ,
           which
           were
           specified
           in
           an
           agreement
           that
           past
           between
           him
           and
           his
           Peasa●ts
           ,
           and
           wa●
           confirmed
           by
           the
           
             Emperour
             .
             Travers
          
           made
           many
           i●croachments
           
           upon
           the
           Priviledges
           of
           his
           Subjects
           ,
           who
           upon
           that
           made
           their
           Complaints
           to
           the
           League
           ;
           but
           Travers
           would
           have
           the
           Matter
           judged
           at
           Inchpruck
           ,
           and
           the
           Emperor
           supported
           him
           in
           this
           Pretension
           ,
           and
           sent
           an
           Agent
           to
           the
           Diet
           :
           I
           was
           present
           ,
           when
           he
           had
           his
           Audience
           ,
           in
           which
           there
           was
           nothing
           but
           
             General
             Complements
          
           :
           But
           the
           Diet
           stood
           firm
           to
           their
           Constitution
           ,
           and
           asserted
           ,
           that
           the
           Emperour
           had
           no
           Authority
           to
           judge
           in
           that
           Matter
           ,
           which
           belonged
           only
           to
           them
           ;
           so
           Travers
           was
           forced
           to
           let
           his
           Pretentions
           fall
           .
        
         
           All
           the
           other
           Parts
           of
           this
           State
           are
           purely
           Democratical
           ;
           there
           are
           three
           different
           Bodies
           or
           Leagues
           ,
           and
           every
           one
           of
           these
           are
           an
           intire
           Government
           ;
           and
           the
           Assembly
           or
           Diet
           of
           the
           
             Three
             Leagues
          
           ,
           in
           only
           a
           Confederacy
           ,
           like
           the
           
             Vnited
             Provinces
          
           ,
           or
           the
           Cant●ns
           :
           There
           are
           
             sixty-seven
             V●ices
          
           in
           the
           General
           Diet
           ,
           which
           are
           thus
           divided
           :
           The
           League
           of
           the
           Grisons
           hath
           twenty-eight
           Voices
           ,
           that
           of
           the
           
             House
             of
             God
          
           hath
           twenty-four
           ,
           and
           ●hat
           of
           the
           Iurisdictions
           hath
           fifteen
           .
           The
           Iurisdictions
           belonged
           anciently
           to
           the
           
             House
             of
             Austria
          
           :
           but
           they
           having
           shaken
           off
           that
           Authority
           ,
           were
           incorporated
           into
           the
           Diet
           :
           but
           in
           the
           last
           Wars
           of
           Germany
           ,
           the
           Austrians
           thought
           to
           have
           brought
           them
           again
           under
           their
           Yoke
           ;
           yet
           they
           defended
           their
           Liberty
           with
           so
           much
           Vigour
           ,
           that
           the
           Austrians
           it
           seems
           thought
           the
           conquest
           not
           worth
           the
           while
           ,
           and
           that
           it
           would
           not
           quit
           the
           cost
           .
           They
           were
           affrighted
           by
           two
           extraordinary
           Actions
           ;
           in
           one
           Village
           ,
           which
           was
           quite
           abandoned
           by
           all
           the
           Men
           belonging
           to
           it
           ,
           who
           left
           the
           Women
           in
           it
           ,
           some
           hundreds
           ,
           as
           I
           was
           told
           ,
           there
           quartered
           ,
           xnd
           were
           apprehensive
           of
           no
           danger
           from
           their
           Hostesses
           ;
           but
           the
           Women
           intended
           to
           let
           their
           Husbands
           see
           ,
           that
           they
           were
           capable
           of
           contriving
           and
           executing
           a
           bold
           Action
           ;
           tho
           it
           must
           be
           confest
           ,
           it
           was
           a
           little
           too
           rough
           and
           Barbarous
           for
           the
           Sex
           :
           They
           entred
           into
           a
           Combination
           to
           cut
           the
           Throa●s
           of
           all
           the
           Souldiers
           at
           one
           time
           ;
           the
           Woman
           that
           proposed
           this
           ,
           had
           four
           lodged
           with
           her
           ,
           and
           she
           with
           her
           own
           Hands
           dispatcht
           them
           all
           ,
           and
           so
           did
           all
           the
           rest
           ,
           not
           one
           
           Souldier
           escaping
           ●o
           carry
           away
           the
           News
           of
           so
           unheard
           of
           a
           Rage
           .
           In
           another
           Place
           ,
           a
           Body
           of
           the
           Austrians
           came
           into
           a
           Valley
           ,
           that
           was
           quite
           abandoned
           ;
           for
           the
           Men
           that
           had
           no
           Arms
           but
           their
           Clubs
           and
           Staves
           ,
           had
           got
           up
           to
           the
           Mountains
           ;
           but
           they
           took
           their
           Measures
           so
           well
           ,
           and
           possessed
           themselves
           so
           of
           the
           Passes
           ,
           that
           they
           came
           down
           upon
           the
           Souldiers
           with
           so
           much
           Fury
           ,
           that
           they
           defeated
           them
           quite
           ,
           so
           that
           very
           few
           escaped
           ;
           and
           it
           is
           certain
           ,
           that
           the
           Subduing
           them
           would
           have
           proved
           a
           very
           hard
           Work.
           It
           is
           true
           ,
           they
           are
           not
           in
           a
           Condition
           to
           hold
           out
           long
           ;
           the
           publick
           is
           too
           poor
           ;
           so
           that
           tho
           particular
           Persons
           are
           extream
           rich
           ;
           yet
           they
           have
           no
           publick
           Revenue
           ,
           but
           every
           Man
           is
           concerned
           to
           preserve
           his
           Liberty
           ,
           which
           is
           more
           intire
           here
           ,
           than
           it
           is
           even
           in
           Switzerland
           :
           but
           this
           swells
           often
           so
           much
           ,
           and
           throws
           them
           into
           great
           Convulsions
           .
           The
           League
           of
           the
           Grisons
           is
           the
           first
           and
           most
           ancient
           ,
           and
           it
           is
           composed
           of
           
             eight
             an●
             twenty
             Communities
          
           ,
           of
           which
           there
           are
           
             eighteen
             Papists
          
           ,
           and
           the
           rest
           are
           Protestants
           ;
           the
           Communities
           of
           the
           two
           Religions
           live
           neighbourly
           together
           ,
           yet
           they
           do
           not
           suffer
           those
           of
           another
           Religion
           to
           live
           among
           them
           ,
           so
           that
           every
           Community
           is
           entirely
           of
           the
           same
           Religion
           ;
           and
           if
           any
           one
           changes
           ,
           he
           must
           go
           into
           another
           Community
           .
           Each
           Community
           is
           an
           intire
           State
           within
           it self
           ,
           and
           all
           Perso●●
           must
           meet
           once
           a
           year
           to
           chuse
           the
           Iudge
           and
           his
           Assistants
           ,
           whom
           they
           change
           ,
           or
           continue
           from
           year
           to
           year
           ,
           as
           they
           see
           cause
           :
           There
           is
           no
           difference
           made
           between
           Gentleman
           and
           Peasant
           ,
           and
           the
           T●nant
           hath
           a
           Vote
           as
           well
           as
           his
           Landlord
           ,
           nor
           dare
           his
           Landlord
           use
           him
           ill
           wh●n
           he
           vote●
           contrary
           to
           his
           intentions
           ;
           for
           the
           Peasants
           would
           look
           upon
           that
           as
           a
           common
           Quarrel
           .
           An
           appeal
           lies
           from
           the
           Iudge
           of
           the
           Community
           ,
           to
           the
           Assembly
           of
           the
           League
           ,
           where
           all
           matters
           end
           ;
           for
           there
           lies
           no
           appeal
           to
           the
           general
           Diet
           of
           the
           
             thr●e
             Leagues
          
           ,
           except
           in
           matters
           that
           concern
           the
           conquered
           Countries
           ,
           which
           belong
           in
           common
           to
           all
           the
           three
           .
           There
           is
           one
           chosen
           by
           the
           Deputies
           for
           the
           Assembly
           of
           the
           League
           ,
           who
           is
           called
           the
           
             Head
             of
             the
             League
          
           ,
           that
           can
           call
           them
           together
           as
           he
           sees
           ●ause
           ,
           and
           
           can
           likewise
           bring
           a
           cause
           that
           hath
           been
           once
           judged
           to
           a
           second
           hearing
           .
           Ilants
           is
           the
           
             Chief
             Town
          
           of
           this
           League
           ,
           where
           their
           Diet
           meets
           .
           The
           second
           League
           is
           that
           of
           
             the
             House
             of
             God
          
           ,
           in
           which
           there
           are
           24
           Communi●ies
           ;
           the
           Burgomaster
           of
           Coire
           is
           always
           the
           Head
           of
           this
           League
           :
           This
           League
           is
           almost
           wholly
           Protestant
           ,
           and
           the
           
             two
             Valleys
          
           of
           the
           Vpper
           and
           
             Lower
             En●edin
          
           are
           pointed
           out
           by
           the
           Papists
           ,
           as
           little
           less
           than
           Cannibals
           towards
           such
           Ca●holicks
           as
           come
           among
           them
           ;
           but
           
             Frier
             Sfondrato
          
           ,
           Nephew
           
             to
             Pope
             Gregory
          
           the
           fourteenth
           ,
           whose
           Mother
           the
           
             Marquess
             of
             Bergominiero
          
           ,
           that
           was
           in
           England
           ,
           hath
           married
           ,
           found
           the
           contrary
           of
           all
           this
           to
           be
           true
           to
           his
           great
           regret
           .
           About
           eighteen
           years
           ago
           he
           was
           believed
           to
           have
           wrought
           Miracles
           ,
           and
           he
           became
           so
           much
           in
           love
           with
           the
           
             Crown
             of
             Martyrdom
          
           ,
           that
           he
           went
           through
           the
           Enged●n
           ,
           not
           doubting
           but
           he
           would
           find
           there
           that
           whi●h
           he
           desired
           .
           His
           Brother
           had
           come
           some
           time
           before
           into
           the
           Country
           to
           drink
           Mineral
           Waters
           ,
           and
           was
           well
           known
           to
           the
           Gentry
           ,
           so
           some
           of
           these
           hearing
           of
           the
           Fry●r's
           coming
           ,
           went
           and
           waited
           on
           him
           ,
           and
           he
           was
           entertained
           by
           them
           in
           their
           Houses
           ,
           and
           conveyed
           through
           the
           Countrey
           ,
           tho
           he
           took
           all
           possible
           wayes
           to
           provoke
           them
           ;
           for
           he
           was
           often
           railing
           at
           their
           Religion
           ,
           but
           to
           all
           that
           they
           made
           no
           answer
           ,
           only
           they
           continued
           their
           Civilities
           still
           ,
           which
           did
           so
           inrage
           the
           warm
           Fryer
           ,
           that
           he
           went
           to
           Bormio
           ,
           and
           there
           (
           as
           was
           believed
           )
           he
           Dyed
           of
           Grief
           .
           An
           Accident
           fell
           out
           
             five
             years
          
           ago
           ,
           that
           the
           People
           of
           the
           Country
           esteemed
           a
           sort
           of
           a
           Miracle
           .
           The
           Papists
           in
           their
           Processions
           go
           sometimes
           out
           of
           one
           Community
           into
           another
           ,
           and
           when
           they
           pass
           through
           
             Protestant
             Comm●nities
          
           ,
           they
           lower
           the
           Cross
           ,
           and
           give
           over
           singing
           till
           they
           are
           again
           upon
           Popish
           ground
           :
           but
           then
           they
           went
           on
           bea●ing
           up
           the
           Cross
           ,
           and
           singing
           as
           they
           went
           ;
           upon
           which
           the
           Protesta●ts
           stopt
           them
           ,
           and
           would
           not
           suffer
           them
           to
           go
           on
           in
           that
           manner
           :
           they
           finding
           ●hat
           they
           were
           not
           equal
           in
           number
           to
           the
           Protestants
           ,
           sent
           to
           a
           
             Catholick
             Community
          
           ,
           and
           desired
           them
           to
           come
           to
           their
           Assistance
           :
           
             Two
             thousand
          
           came
           ,
           and
           by
           all
           appearance
           
           the
           Dispute
           would
           have
           had
           a
           bloody
           Issue
           :
           fo●
           the
           Protestants
           were
           resolved
           to
           maintain
           the
           Right●
           of
           their
           Community
           ,
           and
           the
           others
           were
           no
           less
           resolved
           to
           force
           their
           Way
           :
           but
           an
           extraordinary
           thick
           mist
           arose
           ,
           and
           through
           it
           ,
           the
           Papists
           fancied
           they
           saw
           ●
           vast
           Body
           of
           Men
           ,
           which
           was
           no
           other
           than
           a
           Wood
           :
           but
           terrified
           with
           the
           Appearance
           of
           such
           a
           number
           ,
           they
           retired
           ,
           and
           this
           saved
           a
           little
           battel
           ,
           that
           probably
           would
           not
           only
           have
           ended
           in
           the
           shedding
           much
           blood
           ,
           but
           might
           have
           very
           much
           disordered
           the
           whole
           Constitution
           and
           Union
           of
           their
           Leagues
           .
           The
           Papists
           of
           quality
           endeavour
           much
           to
           keep
           their
           People
           in
           ordet
           ▪
           but
           they
           acknowledged
           to
           my self
           ,
           that
           the
           Protestants
           were
           much
           peaceabler
           than
           the
           Catholicks
           .
           The
           Iurisdictions
           have
           fifteen
           Votes
           in
           the
           General
           Diet
           ,
           yet
           they
           are
           generally
           called
           the
           
             ten
             Iurisdictions
          
           ,
           and
           the
           greater
           part
           of
           them
           are
           likewise
           of
           the
           Religion
           ;
           for
           upon
           the
           general
           Computation
           of
           the
           
             three
             Leagues
          
           ,
           the
           Protestants
           are
           about
           two
           thirds
           .
           In
           their
           Diets
           there
           are
           
             three
             Tables
          
           ,
           one
           in
           the
           middle
           ,
           and
           two
           on
           either
           side
           ;
           at
           every
           Table
           sits
           the
           Head
           of
           the
           League
           ,
           and
           a
           Secretary
           near
           him
           ;
           and
           from
           the
           Ta●●●
           there
           goes
           down
           Benches
           on
           both
           Hands
           for
           the
           Deputi●●
           from
           the
           Communities
           of
           that
           League
           :
           They
           hold
           their
           Diets
           by
           turns
           in
           the
           Chief
           Towns
           of
           the
           several
           Leagues
           ,
           and
           it
           hapned
           to
           be
           the
           turn
           of
           the
           
             House
             of
             God
          
           ,
           when
           I
           was
           there
           ;
           so
           they
           met
           at
           Coire
           .
        
         
           The
           
             three
             Leagues
          
           have
           a
           conquered
           Country
           in
           Italy
           ,
           divided
           into
           three
           Districts
           ,
           the
           
             Valteline
             ,
             Chavennes
          
           and
           ●ormio
           .
           When
           
             Iohn
             Galeasse
          
           possessed
           himself
           of
           the
           
             Dutchy
             of
             Milan
          
           ,
           and
           drove
           out
           
             Ba●nabas
             ,
             Mastinus
          
           one
           of
           Barnabas's
           Son●
           ,
           to
           whom
           his
           Father
           had
           given
           those
           three
           Branches
           of
           the
           
             Dutchy
             of
             Milan
          
           ,
           retired
           to
           Coire
           ,
           and
           being
           hospitably
           received
           and
           entertained
           by
           the
           Bishop
           ,
           when
           he
           died
           ,
           he
           gave
           his
           Right
           to
           those
           Territories
           to
           the
           
             Cathedral
             of
             Coire
          
           :
           but
           here
           was
           a
           Title
           without
           a
           force
           able
           to
           make
           it
           good
           .
           But
           when
           the
           Wars
           of
           Italy
           were
           on
           Foot
           ,
           the
           
             three
             Leagues
          
           being
           
           much
           courted
           by
           both
           the
           Crowns
           ,
           since
           they
           were
           Masters
           of
           the
           Passes
           ,
           by
           which
           either
           the
           Switzers
           or
           Germans
           could
           come
           into
           Italy
           ,
           they
           resolved
           to
           lay
           hold
           on
           that
           Opportunity
           :
           yet
           they
           had
           not
           Zeal
           enough
           for
           their
           Bishop
           ,
           to
           ingage
           deep
           upon
           his
           Account
           ,
           so
           they
           agreed
           with
           him
           to
           pay
           him
           such
           a
           Revenue
           ,
           and
           he
           transferred
           his
           Title
           to
           them
           ,
           and
           they
           were
           so
           considerable
           to
           the
           Spaniards
           ,
           that
           without
           much
           ado
           ,
           they
           yielded
           those
           Parcels
           of
           the
           
             D●t●hy
             of
             Milan
          
           to
           them
           ,
           and
           by
           this
           means
           they
           are
           possessed
           of
           them
           .
           Those
           Accessions
           to
           this
           State
           are
           much
           better
           than
           the
           principal
           ;
           for
           as
           certainly
           the
           Valteline
           ,
           which
           is
           above
           forty
           Miles
           long
           ,
           and
           two
           broad
           ,
           is
           one
           of
           the
           
             riches
             Valleys
          
           in
           the
           World
           ,
           in
           which
           there
           are
           three
           Harvests
           some
           years
           ;
           so
           the
           Chavennes
           and
           Bormio
           are
           much
           preferable
           to
           the
           best
           Valleys
           of
           the
           Grisons
           ;
           yet
           the
           ingagement
           that
           people
           have
           to
           their
           native
           Homes
           appears
           signally
           here
           ,
           since
           the
           Grisons
           have
           not
           forsaken
           their
           Countrey
           ,
           that
           they
           might
           scituate
           themselves
           so
           advantagiously
           :
           but
           they
           love
           their
           rugged
           Valleys
           ,
           and
           think
           the
           safety
           they
           injoy
           ●n
           them
           beyond
           the
           pleasures
           of
           their
           acquired
           Dominions
           ;
           so
           they
           govern
           them
           by
           Bailifs
           and
           Podesta's
           ,
           and
           other
           Officers
           whom
           they
           send
           among
           them
           ;
           and
           all
           the
           advantages
           that
           they
           draw
           from
           them
           ,
           is
           that
           the
           Magistrates
           whom
           they
           send
           to
           govern
           them
           ,
           do
           inrich
           themselves
           ,
           as
           the
           Bailifs
           in
           Switzerland
           do
           .
           All
           those
           Offices
           go
           round
           the
           several
           Communities
           ,
           who
           have
           the
           right
           of
           nomination
           in
           their
           turn
           :
           But
           if
           there
           is
           none
           of
           the
           Community
           proper
           for
           the
           Imployment
           ,
           any
           one
           of
           another
           Community
           may
           buy
           of
           them
           the
           Nomination
           for
           that
           turn
           ,
           and
           the
           Community
           distribute
           among
           them
           the
           Money
           that
           he
           gives
           them
           .
           The
           publick
           draws
           nothing
           out
           of
           those
           parts
           ,
           except
           the
           Fines
           ,
           which
           in
           some
           years
           amounts
           to
           no
           considerable
           sum
           ;
           and
           ten
           or
           twelve
           thousand
           Crowns
           is
           thought
           a
           great
           deal
           to
           be
           raised
           out
           of
           them
           in
           a
           year
           ;
           so
           that
           their
           Subjects
           live
           happy
           ,
           and
           free
           
           of
           all
           Taxes
           ,
           which
           made
           their
           last
           Revolt
           appear
           the
           more
           extraordinaty
           ;
           and
           it
           was
           indeed
           the
           effect
           of
           a
           very
           surprising
           Bigotry
           ,
           when
           a
           people
           under
           the
           gentlest
           yoke
           in
           the
           World
           ,
           who
           had
           no
           other
           Grievance
           ,
           but
           tha●
           now
           and
           then
           their
           Magistrates
           were
           of
           another
           Religion
           ,
           and
           that
           the
           
             Protestant
             Religion
          
           was
           tolerated
           amongst
           them
           ,
           would
           therefore
           throw
           off
           their
           Masters
           ,
           cut
           the
           Throats
           of
           their
           Neighbours
           ,
           and
           cast
           themselves
           into
           the
           hands
           of
           the
           Spaniards
           ,
           who
           are
           the
           terriblest
           Masters
           in
           the
           World.
           
        
         
           But
           to
           give
           a
           more
           particular
           Relation
           of
           that
           matter
           ,
           and
           to
           tell
           the
           Circumstances
           which
           seem
           a
           little
           to
           lesse●
           that
           Rebellion
           and
           Massacre
           ,
           I
           must
           give
           an
           Account
           of
           a
           part
           of
           this
           Constitution
           that
           is
           very
           Terrible
           ,
           and
           which
           makes
           the
           greatest
           Men
           in
           it
           to
           tremble
           :
           The
           Peasants
           come
           sometimes
           in
           great
           Bodies
           ,
           and
           demand
           a
           
             Chamb●r
             of
             Iustice
          
           from
           the
           general
           Diet
           ,
           and
           they
           are
           bound
           to
           grant
           it
           alwayes
           when
           it
           is
           thus
           demanded
           ,
           which
           come●
           about
           generally
           once
           in
           twenty
           years
           ;
           commonly
           this
           tumult
           of
           the
           Peasants
           is
           set
           on
           by
           some
           of
           the
           Male-contented
           Gentry
           ,
           and
           generally
           there
           are
           a
           great
           many
           Sacrifices
           made
           .
           This
           Court
           is
           composed
           of
           
             ten
             Iudges
          
           out
           of
           every
           League
           ,
           and
           
             twenty
             Advocates
          
           ,
           who
           manage
           such
           Accusations
           as
           are
           presented
           to
           them
           ;
           this
           Court
           is
           paramount
           to
           Law
           ,
           and
           Acts
           like
           a
           Court
           of
           Inquisition
           ;
           they
           give
           the
           Question
           ,
           and
           do
           every
           thing
           that
           they
           think
           necessary
           to
           discover
           the
           Truth
           of
           such
           Accusations
           as
           are
           presented
           to
           them
           ;
           and
           the
           Decisions
           of
           this
           Court
           can
           never
           be
           brought
           under
           a
           second
           Review
           ,
           tho
           there
           is
           an
           exception
           to
           this
           ;
           for
           about
           a
           hundred
           years
           ago
           ,
           one
           
             Court
             of
             Iustice
          
           reversed
           all
           that
           another
           had
           done
           ;
           but
           that
           is
           a
           single
           instance
           .
           The
           Peasants
           are
           in
           as
           great
           a
           jealousie
           of
           the
           Spaniards
           ,
           as
           the
           Switzers
           are
           of
           the
           French
           ,
           and
           the
           good
           Men
           among
           them
           are
           extream
           sensible
           of
           a
           great
           Dissolution
           of
           Morals
           that
           the
           Spanish
           service
           brings
           among
           them
           :
           For
           there
           is
           a
           
             Grison
             Regiment
          
           kept
           still
           in
           pay
           by
           the
           Spaniards
           ,
           there
           are
           in
           it
           twelve
           C●mpanies
           of
           fifty
           apiece
           ,
           and
           the
           Captains
           have
           a
           thousand
           
           Crowns
           pay
           ,
           tho
           they
           are
           not
           obliged
           to
           attend
           upon
           the
           service
           :
           This
           is
           upon
           the
           matter
           a
           Pension
           paid
           under
           a
           more
           decent
           name
           to
           the
           most
           considerable
           Men
           of
           the
           Countrey
           ;
           and
           this
           is
           shared
           among
           them
           without
           any
           distinction
           of
           Protestant
           and
           Papist
           ,
           and
           is
           believed
           to
           sway
           their
           Councils
           much
           .
           The
           Peasants
           are
           apt
           to
           take
           fire
           ,
           and
           to
           beli●ve
           they
           are
           betrayed
           by
           those
           Pensioners
           of
           Spain
           ;
           and
           when
           Rumors
           are
           blown
           about
           among
           them
           ,
           they
           come
           in
           great
           numbers
           to
           demand
           a
           
             Chamber
             of
             Iustice
          
           ;
           the
           common
           Question
           that
           they
           give
           ,
           which
           is
           also
           used
           all
           Switzerland
           over
           ,
           and
           in
           Geneva
           ,
           is
           ,
           that
           they
           tye
           the
           Hands
           of
           the
           suspected
           person
           behind
           his
           back
           ,
           and
           pull
           them
           up
           to
           his
           Head
           ,
           and
           so
           draw
           them
           about
           ,
           by
           which
           the
           arms
           and
           chiefly
           the
           Shoulder-blades
           are
           disjoynted
           ;
           and
           when
           a
           person
           put
           to
           the
           Question
           confesses
           his
           Crime
           ,
           and
           is
           upon
           that
           condemned
           to
           dye
           ,
           he
           is
           obliged
           to
           renew
           his
           Confession
           upon
           Oath
           at
           the
           Place
           of
           Execution
           :
           and
           if
           he
           goes
           off
           from
           it
           then
           ,
           and
           saith
           ,
           
             That
             his
             Confession
             was
             extorted
             by
             the
             Violence
             of
             the
             Torture
             ,
          
           he
           is
           put
           again
           to
           the
           Question
           :
           for
           this
           passes
           for
           a
           Maxim
           ,
           
             That
             no
             man
             must
             dye
             unless
             he
             conf●sseth
             himself
             guilty
          
           :
           Generally
           when
           the
           fury
           of
           demanding
           this
           Chamber
           is
           spread
           among
           the
           people
           ,
           the
           Gentry
           run
           away
           ,
           and
           leave
           the
           whole
           matter
           in
           the
           power
           of
           the
           Peasants
           ;
           for
           they
           know
           not
           where
           it
           will
           end
           ;
           and
           so
           the
           Peasants
           being
           named
           to
           be
           Iudges
           ,
           the
           Justice
           goes
           quick
           ,
           till
           some
           Sacrifices
           appease
           the
           Rage
           .
           Two
           Year
           ago
           ,
           upon
           the
           sale
           of
           a
           Common
           to
           the
           Bishop
           of
           Como
           ,
           to
           which
           he
           had
           an
           ancient
           pretension
           ,
           the
           Peasants
           having
           no
           more
           the
           liberty
           of
           the
           Common
           ,
           were
           inraged
           at
           their
           Magistrates
           ,
           and
           a
           Report
           was
           spread
           abroad
           ,
           of
           which
           the
           first
           Author
           could
           never
           be
           discovered
           ,
           
             that
             the
          
           Spaniards
           
             had
             sent
             a
             hun●red
             thousand
          
           Crowns
           
             among
             them
             to
             corrupt
             all
             their
          
           Magistrates
           ;
           upon
           this
           they
           were
           so
           set
           on
           fire
           ,
           that
           it
           was
           generally
           thought
           there
           would
           have
           been
           many
           Sacrifices
           made
           to
           this
           fury
           :
           but
           the
           Gentry
           hapned
           to
           be
           then
           so
           much
           united
           ,
           that
           there
           was
           none
           of
           them
           ingaged
           among
           the
           Peasants
           ,
           or
           that
           managed
           their
           Rage
           :
           
           a
           
             Chamber
             of
             Iustice
          
           was
           granted
           ,
           but
           the
           matter
           was
           so
           ordered
           ,
           that
           it
           did
           not
           appear
           that
           any
           one
           was
           guilty
           ;
           yet
           some
           that
           had
           dealt
           in
           that
           transaction
           were
           fined
           ,
           not
           so
           much
           for
           any
           fault
           of
           theirs
           ,
           as
           to
           raise
           a
           fund
           to
           pay
           the
           Expences
           of
           the
           Chamber
           ;
           and
           because
           they
           could
           not
           find
           colour
           enough
           to
           raise
           so
           much
           out
           of
           the
           Fines
           ,
           there
           was
           a
           fine
           of
           five
           hundred
           Livres
           laid
           on
           every
           one
           of
           the
           
             Spanish
             Companies
          
           .
           I
           hope
           this
           digression
           will
           not
           appear
           tedious
           to
           you
           ,
           and
           the
           rather
           because
           you
           will
           soon
           see
           that
           it
           was
           a
           little
           necessary
           to
           open
           the
           matter
           of
           the
           Rebellion
           and
           Massacre
           in
           the
           Valteline
           .
        
         
           In
           the
           Year
           1618.
           there
           was
           a
           Report
           set
           about
           ,
           That
           the
           Spaniards
           
             had
             a
             Treaty
             on
             foot
             ●o
             tear
             away
             the
          
           Valteline
           
             from
             the
          
           Leagues
           :
           this
           was
           supported
           by
           the
           Fort
           Fuentes
           ,
           that
           the
           Governor
           of
           Milan
           was
           building
           upon
           the
           
             Lake
             of
             Como
          
           ,
           near
           the
           Valteline
           .
           There
           was
           one
           Ganatz
           a
           Minister
           ,
           but
           a
           bloody
           and
           Perfidious
           Man
           ,
           that
           set
           on
           and
           managed
           the
           rage
           of
           the
           Peasa●ts
           ,
           and
           there
           was
           great
           reason
           to
           suspect
           some
           underhand
           dealing
           ,
           tho
           he
           threw
           it
           which
           way
           he
           pleased
           .
           A
           
             Chamber
             of
             Iustice
          
           was
           appointed
           to
           sit
           at
           Tossane
           ,
           which
           is
           a
           considerable
           Town
           twelve
           miles
           from
           Coire
           ,
           on
           the
           way
           to
           Italy
           ,
           near
           
             Alta
             Rhetia
          
           ,
           which
           is
           a
           high
           and
           small
           Hill
           ,
           to
           which
           there
           is
           no
           access
           but
           on
           one
           side
           ,
           where
           there
           are
           yet
           the
           Ruins
           of
           a
           Castle
           and
           a
           Church
           ,
           and
           which
           they
           believe
           was
           the
           Pallace
           of
           Rhetus
           ,
           the
           first
           Prince
           of
           the
           Countrey
           :
           There
           was
           severe
           Justice
           done
           in
           this
           Chamber
           ,
           a
           Pri●st
           was
           put
           to
           the
           Question
           ,
           and
           so
           ill
           use●
           that
           he
           dyed
           in
           it
           ,
           which
           is
           a
           crying
           thing
           among
           them
           .
           The
           chief
           suspicion
           lay
           upon
           one
           Pianta
           ,
           who
           being
           of
           one
           of
           the
           best
           Families
           of
           the
           Grisons
           ,
           was
           then
           one
           of
           the
           Captains
           in
           the
           Spanish
           Regiments
           ;
           he
           withdrew
           himself
           from
           the
           Storm
           ,
           but
           the
           Peasants
           led
           on
           by
           Ganatz
           pursued
           him
           so
           ,
           that
           at
           last
           they
           found
           him
           ,
           and
           hewed
           him
           in
           pieces
           ,
           Ganatz
           himself
           striking
           the
           first
           stroke
           with
           an
           Ax
           ,
           which
           was
           taken
           ap
           and
           preserved
           by
           his
           Friends
           ;
           and
           ●our
           and
           twenty
           years
           a●ter
           ●ifty
           or
           sixty
           of
           his
           Friends
           ●ell
           upon
           Ganatz
           in
           Coire
           ,
           
           and
           killed
           him
           with
           the
           same
           Ax
           ,
           which
           they
           brought
           along
           with
           them
           ,
           that
           they
           might
           execute
           their
           design
           by
           the
           same
           Tool
           with
           which
           their
           Friend
           was
           murthered
           .
           Ganatz
           had
           during
           the
           Wars
           abandoned
           both
           his
           R●ligion
           and
           Pr●fession
           ,
           being
           indeed
           a
           disgrace
           to
           both
           ,
           and
           had
           served
           first
           in
           the
           Venetian
           ,
           and
           then
           in
           the
           Spanish
           Troops
           :
           After
           the
           peace
           was
           made
           ,
           he
           became
           so
           considerable
           ,
           being
           supported
           by
           the
           Spanish
           Faction
           ,
           that
           he
           was
           chosen
           Governour
           of
           Chavenn●s
           ,
           and
           was
           come
           over
           to
           Coire
           to
           a
           Diet
           ,
           he
           being
           then
           in
           so
           important
           a
           charge
           :
           but
           he
           was
           so
           much
           hated
           ,
           that
           tho
           the
           muthering
           of
           a
           Magistrate
           in
           Office
           ,
           and
           at
           a
           publick
           Assembly
           in
           so
           terrible
           a
           manner
           ,
           ought
           to
           have
           been
           severely
           pun●shed
           ,
           yet
           no
           inquiry
           was
           made
           into
           the
           Crime
           ,
           nor
           was
           any
           Man
           so
           much
           as
           questioned
           for
           it
           .
           In
           that
           Chamber
           many
           that
           were
           put
           to
           the
           Question
           ,
           confessed
           enough
           to
           hang
           them
           ;
           some
           indured
           the
           Question
           ,
           and
           escaped
           with
           the
           loss
           of
           the
           use
           of
           their
           Arms.
           Those
           of
           the
           Valteline
           have
           made
           use
           of
           this
           severity
           ,
           as
           that
           which
           gave
           the
           rise
           to
           the
           Massacre
           ;
           and
           it
           is
           very
           probable
           ,
           this
           might
           have
           drawn
           in
           some
           ,
           that
           would
           have
           been
           otherwise
           more
           moderate
           ,
           and
           that
           it
           did
           likewise
           precipitate
           that
           Barbarous
           Action
           :
           yet
           it
           was
           afterwards
           found
           out
           ,
           that
           the
           Plot
           had
           been
           formed
           long
           before
           ,
           so
           that
           the
           Industry
           and
           Rage
           of
           the
           Priests
           ,
           managed
           by
           Spanish
           Emissaries
           ,
           wo●king
           upon
           the
           bigotry
           of
           the
           People
           ,
           was
           the
           Real
           Cause
           ,
           and
           this
           was
           only
           made
           use
           of
           as
           a
           pretext
           to
           give
           some
           more
           plausible
           colours
           to
           the
           Massacre
           ,
           which
           was
           executed
           some
           Months
           after
           this
           Chamber
           was
           dissolved
           .
           It
           began
           while
           the
           Protestants
           were
           at
           Chur●h
           ;
           there
           were
           some
           hundreds
           destroyed
           ,
           the
           rest
           got
           all
           up
           to
           the
           Mountains
           ,
           and
           so
           escaped
           into
           the
           Countrey
           of
           the
           Grisons
           ,
           and
           those
           of
           Chavennes
           got
           likewise
           up
           to
           the
           Hills
           ;
           for
           they
           are
           situated
           just
           at
           the
           bottom
           of
           them
           .
        
         
           I
           shall
           not
           prosecute
           the
           rest
           of
           that
           Har
           ;
           the
           Fren●h
           saw
           of
           what
           Advantage
           it
           was
           to
           them
           ,
           not
           to
           let
           this
           Pass
           from
           Italy
           into
           Germany
           fall
           into
           the
           Hands
           of
           the
           
           Spaniards
           ;
           so
           Bassompiere
           was
           sent
           to
           Madrid
           ,
           and
           obtained
           a
           p●omise
           ,
           that
           all
           things
           should
           be
           put
           in
           the
           same
           state
           in
           which
           they
           were
           before
           the
           year
           1618.
           but
           when
           that
           order
           was
           sent
           to
           the
           
             Governour
             of
             Milan
          
           ,
           it
           was
           plain
           he
           had
           secret
           Orders
           to
           the
           contrary
           ;
           for
           he
           refused
           to
           execute
           it
           :
           so
           a
           War
           followed
           ,
           in
           which
           the
           Gris●ns
           found
           it
           was
           not
           easy
           for
           them
           to
           support
           the
           charge
           of
           it
           ,
           without
           imploying
           the
           Assistance
           of
           the
           Fren●h
           .
           But
           the
           Spaniards
           pretended
           to
           have
           no
           other
           Interest
           in
           the
           affairs
           of
           the
           Valteline
           ,
           than
           the
           preservation
           of
           the
           
             Catholick
             Religion
          
           ;
           and
           to
           s●ew
           their
           sincerity
           ,
           they
           put
           the
           Countrey
           into
           the
           Popes
           Hands
           ,
           knowing
           that
           he
           could
           not
           preserve
           it
           but
           by
           their
           Assistance
           ,
           nor
           restore
           it
           without
           securing
           it
           from
           all
           change
           of
           Religion
           .
           The
           French
           willingly
           undertook
           the
           cause
           of
           the
           Grisons
           ,
           and
           because
           the
           
             Duke
             of
             Rohan
          
           was
           like
           to
           be
           the
           most
           favourable
           General
           ,
           as
           being
           of
           the
           Religion
           ,
           he
           was
           sent
           to
           command
           some
           forces
           that
           marched
           thither
           :
           But
           he
           saw
           ,
           that
           if
           the
           French
           once
           made
           themselves
           Masters
           of
           the
           Passes
           of
           the
           Countrey
           ,
           it
           would
           turn
           to
           their
           Ruin
           ;
           and
           finding
           the
           Grisons
           reposed
           an
           intire
           confidence
           in
           him
           ,
           he
           thought
           it
           unbecoming
           him
           to
           be
           an
           Instrument
           in
           that
           which
           he
           saw
           must
           be
           fatal
           to
           them
           .
           The
           Spaniards
           seeing
           the
           Fren●h
           ingage
           in
           the
           Quarrel
           ,
           and
           fearing
           lest
           they
           should
           possess
           themselves
           of
           the
           Passes
           ,
           offered
           to
           restore
           all
           the
           Territotry
           in
           Italy
           ;
           for
           Chavennes
           and
           Bormio
           had
           likewise
           revolted
           ,
           only
           the
           Protestants
           got
           away
           so
           quick
           upon
           the
           disorders
           in
           the
           Valteline
           ,
           that
           they
           prevented
           the
           Rage
           of
           the
           Priests
           .
           The
           Spaniards
           ask'd
           these
           conditions
           ,
           that
           an
           Amnesty
           should
           be
           granted
           for
           what
           was
           past
           ;
           that
           there
           should
           be
           no
           Exercise
           of
           the
           
             Protestant
             Religion
          
           tolerated
           in
           the
           Countrey
           ,
           and
           that
           even
           the
           Bailifs
           and
           other
           Magistrates
           of
           the
           Religion
           ,
           that
           came
           to
           be
           sent
           into
           the
           Valteline
           ,
           should
           have
           no
           Exercise
           of
           their
           Religion
           ;
           and
           as
           for
           other
           persons
           ,
           that
           none
           of
           the
           Religioe
           might
           stay
           above
           
             six
             Weeks
          
           at
           a
           time
           in
           the
           Countrey
           .
           The
           
             Duke
             of
             Rohan
          
           
           seeing
           that
           Condition●
           of
           so
           much
           Advantage
           to
           the
           Leagues
           were
           offered
           to
           them
           ,
           did
           underhand
           advise
           those
           of
           the
           Religion
           to
           accept
           of
           them
           ,
           at
           the
           same
           time
           that
           he
           seemed
           openly
           to
           oppose
           the
           Treaty
           set
           on
           foot
           on
           those
           Tems
           ;
           and
           that
           he
           might
           get
           out
           of
           this
           Imployment
           with
           the
           less
           dishonour
           ,
           he
           advised
           their
           clapping
           him
           up
           in
           Prison
           till
           they
           had
           finished
           their
           Treaty
           with
           the
           Spaniards
           .
           So
           that
           they
           very
           gratefully
           to
           this
           day
           own
           ,
           that
           they
           owe
           the
           Preservation
           of
           their
           Countrey
           to
           the
           wise
           Advices
           of
           that
           
             great
             Man.
          
           Many
           that
           were
           of
           the
           Religion
           returned
           to
           their
           Houses
           and
           Estates
           ,
           but
           the
           greatest
           part
           fearing
           such
           another
           Massacree
           ,
           have
           since
           changed
           their
           Religion
           ,
           others
           have
           sold
           their
           Estates
           ,
           and
           left
           the
           Country
           ;
           some
           stay
           still
           ,
           and
           go
           two
           or
           three
           hours
           journey
           to
           some
           of
           the
           
             Protestant
             Communities
          
           ,
           where
           they
           have
           the
           Exercise
           of
           the
           Religion
           :
           And
           tho
           they
           may
           not
           stay
           in
           the
           Valteline
           above
           
             six
             weeks
          
           at
           a
           time
           ;
           yet
           they
           avoid
           that
           by
           going
           for
           a
           day
           or
           two
           out
           of
           the
           Countrey
           once
           within
           that
           time
           ;
           nor
           is
           that
           matter
           at
           present
           so
           severely
           examined
           :
           so
           that
           there
           is
           a
           calm
           among
           them
           as
           so
           those
           matters
           .
           But
           when
           it
           comes
           to
           the
           turn
           of
           the
           
             Protestant
             Communities
          
           to
           send
           one
           of
           the
           Religion
           to
           those
           imployments
           ,
           he
           is
           often
           much
           embarassed
           by
           the
           Bishop
           of
           Como
           ,
           to
           whose
           Diocess
           those
           Territories
           belong
           ;
           for
           if
           the
           Bishop
           fancies
           ,
           that
           they
           do
           any
           thing
           contrary
           to
           the
           
             Ekclesiastical
             immunities
          
           ,
           he
           ex●ommunicates
           them
           ;
           and
           tho
           this
           may
           appear
           a
           ridiculous
           thing
           ,
           since
           they
           are
           already
           in
           a
           worse
           state
           by
           being
           Hereticks
           ,
           yet
           it
           produces
           a
           very
           sensible
           effect
           ;
           for
           the
           people
           that
           are
           extreamly
           superstitious
           ,
           will
           not
           after
           that
           come
           near
           such
           Magistrates
           ▪
           so
           that
           about
           three
           year
           ago
           a
           Bailif
           found
           himself
           obliged
           to
           desire
           to
           be
           recalled
           ,
           tho
           his
           time
           was
           not
           out
           ,
           since
           being
           excommunicated
           ,
           he
           could
           no
           longer
           mainrain
           the
           Governm●nt
           in
           his
           own
           person
           .
        
         
           Among
           the
           Grisons
           the
           
             Roman
             Law
          
           prevails
           ,
           modefied
           a
           little
           by
           their
           Customs
           :
           one
           that
           was
           a
           
           little
           particular
           ,
           was
           executed
           when
           I
           was
           there
           .
           A
           M●n
           that
           hath
           an
           Estate
           by
           his
           Wife
           ,
           enjoyes
           it
           after
           her
           death
           ,
           as
           long
           as
           he
           continues
           a
           Widower
           ;
           but
           when
           he
           marri●s
           again
           ,
           he
           is
           bound
           to
           divide
           it
           among
           the
           Children
           that
           he
           had
           by
           her
           .
           The
           I●stice
           is
           short
           ,
           and
           simple
           ,
           but
           i●
           is
           oft
           thought
           that
           bribes
           go
           here
           ,
           tho
           but
           meanly
           in
           proportion
           to
           their
           poverty
           ,
           as
           well
           as
           in
           other
           places
           .
           The
           
             married
             Women
          
           here
           do
           scarce
           appear
           abroad
           ,
           except
           at
           Church
           ;
           but
           the
           
             young
             Women
          
           have
           more
           Liberty
           before
           they
           are
           m●rried
           .
           There
           is
           such
           a
           plenty
           of
           all
           things
           ,
           by
           reason
           of
           the
           Gen●lene's
           of
           the
           Government
           ,
           and
           the
           Industry
           of
           the
           People
           ,
           that
           in
           all
           the
           
             ten
             dayes
          
           ,
           in
           which
           I
           stayed
           at
           Coire
           ,
           I
           was
           but
           once
           askt
           an
           Alms
           in
           the
           Streets
           .
           There
           are
           
             two
             Churches
          
           in
           Coire
           ;
           in
           the
           one
           there
           is
           an
           Organ
           ,
           that
           joyns
           with
           their
           Voices
           in
           the
           singing
           of
           the
           Psalms
           ▪
           and
           there
           was
           for
           the
           Honour
           of
           the
           D●e●
           ,
           while
           we
           were
           there
           ,
           an
           Anthem
           sung
           by
           a
           set
           of
           Musicians
           very
           regularly
           .
           In
           all
           the
           Churches
           both
           of
           Switzerland
           and
           the
           Grisons
           ,
           except
           in
           this
           only
           ,
           the
           Minister
           preaches
           covered
           ;
           but
           here
           he
           is
           bare-headed
           .
           And
           I
           observed
           a
           particular
           devotion
           used
           here
           in
           saying
           of
           the
           
             Lords
             Prayer
          
           ,
           that
           the
           Ministers
           who
           wear
           Caps
           ,
           put
           them
           off
           when
           this
           was
           said
           .
           The
           Women
           here
           as
           in
           Bern
           ,
           turn
           all
           to
           the
           East
           in
           time
           of
           prayer
           ,
           and
           also
           in
           their
           private
           Devotions
           ,
           before
           and
           after
           the
           
             publick
             Prayer●
          
           ;
           many
           also
           bow
           at
           the
           Name
           of
           Iesus
           :
           They
           Christen
           discovering
           the
           whole
           Head
           ,
           and
           pouring
           the
           Water
           on
           the
           Hind-head
           ,
           using
           a
           trine
           aspersion
           ,
           which
           is
           also
           the
           practice
           of
           the
           Switzers
           .
           It
           was
           matter
           of
           much
           edification
           ,
           to
           see
           the
           great
           numbers
           both
           here
           and
           all
           Switzerland
           over
           ,
           that
           come
           every
           day
           to
           prayers
           morning
           and
           evening
           .
           They
           give
           here
           in
           the
           middle
           of
           the
           prayer
           a
           good
           interval
           of
           Silence
           for
           the
           private
           Devotions
           of
           the
           Assembly
           .
           The
           Schools
           here
           go
           not
           above
           Latin
           ,
           Geek
           and
           Logick
           ;
           and
           for
           the
           rest
           ,
           they
           send
           their
           Children
           to
           Zurich
           or
           Basil.
           The
           Clergy
           here
           are
           very
           meanly
           provided
           ;
           for
           most
           part
           they
           have
           nothing
           but
           the
           Benevolence
           of
           their
           people
           :
           they
           complained
           much
           
           to
           me
           of
           a
           great
           Coldness
           in
           their
           people
           in
           the
           matters
           of
           Religion
           ,
           and
           of
           a
           great
           Corruption
           in
           their
           Morals
           :
           The
           Commons
           are
           extream
           insolent
           ,
           and
           many
           Crimes
           go
           unpunished
           ,
           if
           the
           persons
           that
           commit
           them
           have
           either
           great
           credit
           ,
           or
           much
           money
           .
           The
           poor
           Ministers
           here
           are
           under
           a
           terrible
           slavery
           ●s
           for
           the
           Grisors
           pretend
           ,
           that
           in
           all
           times
           they
           had
           not
           only
           the
           P●atr●nage
           of
           their
           Chur●hes
           ,
           but
           a
           power
           to
           dismiss
           the●r
           Church-men
           as
           they
           saw
           cause
           .
           How
           it
           is
           among
           the
           Papists
           ,
           I
           cannot
           tell
           ;
           but
           the
           Dean
           of
           the
           Syn●d
           of
           God●old
           ●old
           me
           ,
           they
           had
           an
           ill
           custom
           of
           Ordaining
           their
           Ministers
           without
           a
           Title
           ,
           upon
           an
           examination
           of
           their
           Qualifications
           and
           Abilities
           ,
           which
           took
           them
           up
           generally
           six
           or
           seven
           hours
           ,
           and
           when
           this
           tryal
           was
           thus
           dispatched
           ,
           if
           the
           person
           was
           found
           qualified
           ,
           they
           ordained
           him
           ;
           and
           it
           was
           too
           ordinary
           for
           those
           that
           were
           thus
           Ordain●d
           ,
           to
           endeavour
           to
           undermine
           the
           Ministers
           already
           in
           imployment
           ,
           if
           their
           people
           grew
           disgusted
           at
           them
           ,
           or
           as
           they
           became
           disabled
           by
           Age
           ;
           and
           often
           the
           Interest
           and
           Kindred
           of
           the
           Intruder
           carried
           the
           matter
           against
           the
           incumbent
           ,
           without
           any
           colour
           or
           pretence
           ;
           and
           in
           that
           case
           the
           Synod
           was
           bound
           to
           receive
           the
           Intruder
           In
           one
           half
           of
           the
           Country
           they
           preach
           in
           
             high
             Dutch
          
           ,
           and
           in
           the
           other
           half
           in
           a
           corrupt
           Italian
           ,
           which
           they
           call
           Romanish
           ,
           that
           is
           ,
           a
           mixture
           of
           French
           and
           Italian
           .
           In
           every
           League
           they
           have
           a
           Synod
           ;
           and
           as
           the
           people
           chuse
           their
           Ministers
           ,
           so
           in
           imitation
           of
           the
           Switzers
           ,
           every
           Synod
           chuses
           their
           Antistes
           or
           Superintendant
           ;
           he
           is
           called
           the
           Dean
           among
           the
           Grisons
           ,
           and
           hath
           a
           sort
           of
           an
           Episcopal
           Power
           ;
           but
           he
           is
           accountable
           to
           the
           Synod
           :
           The
           Office
           is
           for
           life
           ;
           but
           the
           Synod
           upon
           great
           cause
           given
           ,
           may
           make
           a
           change
           .
           The
           people
           of
           this
           Countrey
           are
           much
           more
           lively
           than
           the
           Switzers
           ,
           and
           they
           begin
           to
           have
           some
           tincture
           of
           the
           Italian
           temper
           .
           They
           are
           extream
           civil
           to
           Strangers
           ;
           but
           it
           seems
           in
           all
           Commonwealths
           I●n-keepers
           think
           they
           have
           a
           right
           to
           exact
           upon
           Strangers
           ,
           which
           one
           finds
           here
           ,
           as
           well
           as
           in
           Holland
           ,
           or
           in
           Switzerland
           .
        
         
         
           I
           shall
           conclude
           what
           I
           have
           to
           say
           concerning
           the
           Grisons
           with
           a
           very
           extraordinary
           Story
           ,
           which
           I
           had
           both
           from
           the
           Ministers
           of
           Coire
           ,
           and
           several
           other
           Gentlemen
           ,
           that
           saw
           in
           April
           1685.
           about
           
             five
             hundred
          
           Persons
           of
           different
           Sexes
           and
           ages
           ,
           that
           past
           through
           the
           Town
           ,
           who
           gave
           this
           account
           of
           themselves
           .
           They
           were
           the
           Inhabitants
           of
           a
           Valley
           in
           Tirol
           ,
           belonging
           for
           the
           greatest
           part
           to
           the
           Arch-Bish●prick
           of
           Saltsburg
           ,
           but
           some
           of
           them
           were
           in
           the
           Diocesses
           of
           Trent
           and
           Bresse
           ;
           they
           seemed
           to
           be
           a
           remnant
           of
           the
           old
           Waldenses
           ;
           they
           worshipped
           neither
           Images
           nor
           Saints
           ;
           and
           they
           believed
           the
           Sacrament
           was
           only
           a
           Commemoration
           of
           the
           Death
           of
           Christ
           :
           and
           in
           many
           other
           Points
           they
           had
           their
           peculiar
           opinions
           ,
           different
           from
           those
           of
           the
           
             Church
             of
             Rome
          
           ;
           they
           knew
           nothing
           neither
           of
           Lutherans
           nor
           Calvinists
           ;
           and
           the
           Gri●ons
           ,
           tho
           their
           Neighbours
           ,
           had
           never
           heard
           of
           this
           Nearness
           of
           theirs
           to
           the
           
             Protestant
             Religion
          
           .
           They
           had
           Mass
           said
           among
           them
           ;
           but
           some
           years
           since
           some
           of
           the
           Valley
           going
           over
           Germany
           to
           earn
           somewhat
           by
           their
           labour
           ,
           hapned
           to
           go
           into
           the
           Palatinate
           ,
           where
           they
           were
           better
           instructed
           in
           matters
           of
           Religion
           ,
           and
           these
           brought
           back
           with
           them
           into
           the
           Valley
           the
           
             Heidelberg
             Cate●hism
          
           ,
           together
           with
           some
           other
           
             German
             Books
          
           ,
           which
           ran
           over
           the
           Valley
           ,
           and
           they
           being
           before
           that
           in
           a
           good
           disposition
           ,
           those
           Books
           had
           such
           an
           effect
           upon
           them
           ,
           that
           they
           gave
           over
           going
           to
           Mass
           any
           more
           ,
           and
           began
           to
           worship
           God
           in
           a
           way
           more
           suitable
           to
           the
           Rules
           set
           down
           in
           Scripture
           :
           some
           of
           their
           Priests
           eoncurred
           with
           them
           in
           this
           happy
           Change
           ;
           but
           others
           ,
           that
           adhered
           still
           to
           the
           Mass
           ,
           went
           and
           gave
           the
           
             Arch-Bishhop
             of
             Saltsburg
          
           an
           account
           of
           it
           ;
           upon
           which
           he
           sent
           some
           into
           the
           Countrey
           to
           examin
           the
           Truth
           of
           the
           Matter
           ,
           to
           exhort
           them
           to
           return
           to
           Mass
           ;
           and
           to
           threaten
           them
           with
           all
           severity
           ,
           if
           they
           continued
           obstinate
           :
           so
           they
           seeing
           a
           terrible
           Storm
           ready
           to
           break
           upon
           them
           ,
           resolved
           to
           abandon
           their
           Houses
           ,
           and
           all
           they
           had
           ,
           rather
           than
           sin
           against
           their
           Consciences
           :
           And
           the
           whole
           
             Inhabitants
             of
             the
             Valley
          
           ,
           old
           and
           young
           ,
           Men
           and
           Women
           ,
           to
           the
           number
           of
           
           
             two
             thousand
          
           ,
           divided
           themselves
           into
           several
           Bodies
           ;
           some
           intended
           to
           go
           to
           Brandenburg
           ,
           others
           to
           the
           Palatinate
           ,
           and
           about
           
             sive
             hundred
          
           took
           the
           way
           of
           Coire
           ,
           intending
           to
           disperse
           themselves
           in
           Switzerland
           .
           The
           Ministers
           told
           me
           ,
           they
           were
           much
           edified
           with
           their
           Simplicity
           ,
           and
           Modesty
           ;
           for
           a
           Collection
           being
           made
           for
           them
           ,
           they
           desired
           only
           a
           little
           bread
           to
           carry
           them
           on
           their
           way
           .
           From
           Coire
           we
           went
           to
           T●ssane
           ,
           and
           from
           that
           ,
           through
           the
           way
           that
           is
           justly
           called
           
             Via
             Mala.
          
           It
           is
           through
           a
           bottom
           between
           two
           Rocks
           ,
           through
           which
           the
           Rhine
           runs
           ,
           but
           under
           ground
           for
           a
           great
           part
           of
           the
           way
           :
           The
           way
           is
           cut
           out
           in
           the
           middle
           of
           the
           Rock
           in
           some
           places
           ,
           and
           in
           several
           places
           the
           steepness
           of
           the
           Rock
           being
           such
           ,
           that
           a
           way
           could
           not
           be
           cut
           out
           ,
           there
           are
           Beams
           driven
           into
           it
           ,
           over
           which
           Boards
           and
           Earth
           are
           laid
           ;
           this
           way
           holds
           an
           hour
           :
           After
           that
           ,
           there
           is
           for
           two
           hours
           good
           way
           ,
           and
           we
           past
           through
           two
           considerable
           Villages
           ;
           there
           is
           good
           lodging
           in
           both
           :
           from
           thence
           there
           is
           ,
           for
           two
           hours
           Journey
           ,
           terrible
           Way
           ,
           almost
           as
           bad
           as
           the
           
             Via
             Mala
          
           ;
           then
           an
           hours
           Journey
           good
           way
           to
           Splugen
           ;
           which
           is
           a
           large
           Village
           of
           above
           
             two
             hundred
          
           Houses
           ,
           that
           are
           well
           built
           ,
           and
           the
           Inhabitants
           seem
           all
           to
           live
           at
           their
           ease
           ,
           tho
           they
           have
           no
           sort
           of
           soil
           but
           a
           little
           Meadow
           ground
           about
           them
           ;
           This
           is
           the
           last
           
             Protestant
             Church
          
           that
           was
           in
           our
           way
           ;
           it
           was
           well
           indowed
           ;
           for
           the
           provision
           of
           the
           Minister
           was
           near
           two
           hundred
           Crowns
           :
           Those
           of
           this
           Village
           are
           the
           Carriers
           between
           Italy
           and
           Germany
           ,
           so
           they
           drive
           a
           great
           Trade
           ;
           for
           there
           is
           here
           a
           perpetual
           Carriage
           going
           and
           coming
           ;
           and
           we
           were
           told
           ,
           that
           there
           pass
           generally
           a
           
             hundred
             Horses
          
           through
           this
           Town
           ,
           one
           day
           with
           another
           ;
           and
           there
           are
           above
           five
           
             ●undred
             Carriage
             Horse
          
           that
           belong
           to
           this
           Town
           .
           From
           this
           place
           we
           went
           mounting
           for
           three
           hours
           ,
           till
           we
           got
           to
           the
           top
           of
           the
           Hills
           ,
           where
           there
           is
           only
           one
           great
           Inn.
           After
           that
           the
           way
           was
           tolerably
           good
           for
           two
           hours
           ;
           and
           for
           two
           hours
           there
           is
           constant
           descent
           ,
           which
           for
           the
           most
           part
           is
           as
           steep
           as
           if
           we
           were
           all
           the
           while
           going
           down
           stairs
           :
           At
           the
           foo●
           of
           this
           is
           a
           
           little
           Village
           ,
           called
           Campdolein
           ,
           and
           here
           we
           found
           we
           were
           in
           Italy
           ,
           both
           by
           the
           vast
           difference
           of
           the
           Climate
           ;
           for
           whereas
           we
           were
           freezing
           on
           the
           other
           side
           ,
           the
           heat
           of
           the
           Sun
           was
           uneasy
           here
           ,
           and
           also
           by
           the
           number
           of
           the
           Beggar●
           ,
           tho
           it
           may
           seem
           the
           reverse
           of
           what
           one
           ought
           to
           expect
           ,
           since
           the
           richest
           Countrey
           of
           Europe
           is
           full
           of
           Beggars
           ;
           and
           the
           Grisons
           ,
           that
           are
           one
           of
           the
           
             poores●
             States
          
           ,
           have
           no
           Beggars
           at
           all
           .
           One
           thing
           is
           also
           strange
           ,
           that
           among
           the
           Grisons
           ,
           the
           rich
           Wine
           of
           the
           Valteline
           ,
           after
           it
           is
           carried
           three
           Dayes
           Journey
           ,
           is
           sold
           cheaper
           than
           the
           Wine
           of
           other
           Countries
           ,
           where
           it
           grows
           at
           the
           door
           :
           but
           there
           are
           no
           Taxes
           nor
           Impositions
           here
           .
           From
           Campdolein
           there
           is
           three
           Hours
           Journey
           to
           Chavenne●
           ,
           all
           in
           a
           Slow
           descent
           ;
           and
           in
           some
           Places
           the
           Way
           is
           extream
           rugged
           and
           stony
           .
           Chaveunes
           is
           very
           pleasantly
           scituated
           at
           the
           very
           Foot
           of
           the
           Mountains
           ;
           there
           run●
           through
           the
           Town
           a
           pleasant
           little
           River
           :
           It
           is
           nobly
           built
           ,
           and
           hath
           a
           great
           many
           rich
           Vineyards
           about
           it
           :
           and
           the
           Rebound
           of
           the
           Sun-Beams
           from
           the
           Mountains
           ,
           doth
           so
           increase
           the
           heats
           here
           ,
           that
           the
           Soil
           is
           as
           rich
           here
           ,
           as
           in
           any
           Place
           of
           Italy
           .
           Here
           one
           begins
           to
           see
           a
           Noble
           Architecture
           in
           a
           great
           many
           Houses
           ;
           in
           short
           ,
           all
           t●e
           Marks
           of
           a
           rich
           Soil
           ,
           and
           a
           
             free
             Government
          
           appear
           here
           .
           The
           Town
           stood
           a
           little
           more
           to
           the
           North
           ,
           about
           five
           hundred
           years
           ago
           ,
           but
           a
           Slice
           of
           the
           Alps
           came
           dow●
           upon
           it
           ,
           and
           buried
           it
           quite
           ;
           and
           at
           the
           Upper-end
           of
           the
           Town
           there
           are
           some
           Rocks
           that
           look
           like
           Ruins
           ,
           abou●
           which
           there
           hath
           been
           a
           very
           extraordinary
           Expence
           ,
           to
           divide
           them
           one
           from
           another
           ,
           and
           to
           make
           the●
           fit
           Places
           for
           Forts
           and
           Castles
           :
           the
           Marks
           of
           the
           Too●●
           appeared
           all
           over
           the
           Rock
           in
           one
           place
           .
           I
           measured
           the
           Bread●h
           of
           the
           one
           from
           the
           other
           ,
           which
           is
           twent●
           Foot
           ,
           the
           length
           is
           four
           hundred
           and
           fifty
           Foot
           ,
           and
           a●
           we
           could
           guess
           ,
           the
           Rock
           was
           two
           hundred
           Foot
           high
           ,
           cut
           down
           on
           both
           sides
           in
           a
           Line
           as
           even
           as
           a
           Wall
           ;
           towards
           the
           top
           of
           one
           ,
           the
           name
           Salvius
           is
           cut
           i●
           great
           Letters
           ,
           a
           little
           Gothick
           .
           On
           the
           Tops
           of
           thos●
           Ro●ks
           ,
           which
           are
           inaccessible
           except
           on
           the
           one
           si●e
           ,
           
           and
           to
           that
           the
           Ascent
           is
           extream
           uneasy
           ,
           they
           had
           Garrisons
           during
           the
           Wars
           of
           the
           Valteline
           :
           there
           were
           fifteen
           hundred
           in
           Garrison
           in
           that
           which
           is
           in
           the
           middle
           :
           There
           falls
           down
           frequently
           Slices
           from
           the
           Hills
           ,
           that
           do
           extreamly
           fatten
           the
           Ground
           which
           they
           cover
           ,
           so
           that
           it
           becomes
           fruitful
           beyond
           expression
           :
           and
           I
           saw
           a
           
             Lime
             Tree
          
           ,
           that
           was
           planted
           eight
           and
           thirty
           years
           ago
           ,
           in
           a
           piece
           of
           Ground
           ,
           which
           had
           been
           so
           covered
           ,
           that
           was
           two
           Fathom
           and
           a
           half
           of
           Compass
           .
           On
           both
           sides
           of
           the
           River
           ,
           the
           Town
           ,
           and
           the
           Gardens
           belonging
           to
           it
           ,
           cover
           the
           whole
           Bottom
           ,
           that
           lie●
           between
           the
           Hills
           ,
           and
           at
           the
           Roots
           of
           the
           Mountains
           they
           dig
           great
           Cellars
           ,
           and
           Grottoes
           ,
           and
           strike
           a
           hole
           about
           a
           foot
           Square
           ,
           ten
           or
           twelve
           foot
           into
           the
           Hill
           ,
           which
           all
           the
           Summer
           long
           blows
           a
           fresh
           Air
           into
           the
           Cellar
           ;
           so
           that
           the
           Wine
           of
           those
           Cellars
           drinks
           almost
           as
           cold
           as
           if
           it
           were
           in
           Ice
           ;
           but
           this
           Wind-pipe
           did
           not
           blow
           when
           I
           was
           there
           ,
           which
           was
           towards
           the
           end
           of
           September
           :
           For
           the
           Sun
           opening
           the
           Pores
           of
           the
           Earth
           ,
           and
           rarifying
           the
           exterior
           Air
           ,
           that
           which
           is
           compressed
           within
           the
           cavities
           that
           are
           in
           the
           Mountains
           ,
           ●ushes
           out
           with
           a
           constant
           Wind
           ;
           but
           when
           the
           operation
           of
           the
           Sun
           is
           weakned
           ,
           this
           course
           of
           the
           Air
           is
           les●
           sensible
           .
           Before
           or
           over
           those
           Vaults
           they
           build
           little
           pleasant
           rooms
           like
           Sommerhouses
           ,
           and
           in
           them
           they
           go
           to
           collation
           generally
           at
           night
           in
           Summer
           .
           I
           never
           saw
           bigger
           Grapes
           than
           grow
           there
           ;
           there
           is
           one
           sort
           bigger
           than
           the
           biggest
           
             Damas
             ene
             Plums
          
           that
           we
           have
           in
           E●gland
           .
        
         
           There
           is
           a
           sort
           of
           Wine
           here
           and
           in
           the
           Valteline
           ,
           which
           I
           never
           heard
           named
           any
           where
           else
           ,
           that
           is
           called
           Aromatick-wine
           ;
           and
           as
           the
           taste
           makes
           one
           think
           it
           must
           be
           a
           composition
           (
           for
           it
           tastes
           like
           a
           Strong-water
           drawn
           of
           Spi●es
           )
           so
           its
           strength
           being
           equal
           to
           a
           weak
           Brandy
           ,
           disposes
           one
           to
           believe
           that
           it
           cannot
           be
           a
           natural
           Wine
           ,
           and
           yet
           it
           is
           the
           pure
           juice
           of
           the
           Grape
           ,
           without
           any
           mixture
           .
           The
           Liquor
           being
           singular
           ,
           I
           informed
           my self
           particularly
           of
           the
           way
           of
           preparing
           it
           :
           the
           Grapes
           are
           red
           ,
           
           tho
           it
           drinks
           white
           ;
           they
           let
           the
           Grapes
           hang
           on
           the
           V●nes
           till
           November
           ,
           that
           they
           are
           extream
           ripe
           ,
           then
           they
           carry
           them
           to
           their
           Garrets
           ,
           and
           set
           them
           all
           upright
           on
           their
           ends
           by
           one
           another
           for
           two
           or
           three
           months
           ,
           then
           they
           pick
           all
           the
           Grapes
           ,
           and
           throw
           away
           those
           in
           which
           there
           is
           the
           least
           appearance
           of
           rottenness
           ,
           so
           that
           they
           press
           none
           but
           sound
           Grapes
           :
           after
           they
           are
           pressed
           ,
           they
           put
           the
           Liquor
           in
           an
           open
           Vessel
           ,
           in
           which
           it
           throws
           up
           a
           scum
           ,
           which
           they
           take
           off
           twice
           a
           day
           ,
           and
           when
           no
           more
           scum
           comes
           up
           ,
           which
           according
           to
           the
           difference
           of
           the
           season
           is
           sooner
           or
           later
           (
           for
           sometimes
           the
           scum
           comes
           no
           more
           after
           eight
           dayes
           ,
           and
           at
           other
           times
           it
           continues
           a
           fortnight
           )
           then
           they
           put
           it
           in
           a
           close
           Vessel
           ;
           for
           the
           first
           year
           it
           is
           extream
           sweet
           and
           luscious
           ,
           but
           at
           the
           End
           of
           the
           year
           ,
           they
           pierce
           it
           a
           little
           higher
           than
           the
           middle
           of
           the
           Vessel
           ,
           almost
           two
           thirds
           from
           the
           Bottom
           ,
           and
           drink
           it
           off
           till
           it
           cometh
           so
           low
           ,
           and
           then
           every
           year
           they
           fill
           it
           up
           anew
           :
           once
           a
           year
           in
           the
           Month
           of
           March
           it
           ferments
           ,
           and
           cannot
           be
           drunk
           till
           that
           is
           over
           ,
           which
           continues
           a
           Month
           ,
           but
           their
           other
           Wi●●
           ferments
           not
           at
           that
           time
           .
           
             Madam
             Salis
          
           ,
           a
           Lady
           of
           that
           Country
           ,
           who
           entertained
           us
           three
           Dayes
           with
           a
           Magnificence
           equal
           to
           what
           can
           be
           done
           in
           London
           or
           Paris
           ,
           had
           Wine
           of
           this
           Composition
           ,
           that
           was
           forty
           years
           old
           ,
           and
           was
           so
           very
           strong
           ,
           that
           one
           could
           hardly
           drink
           above
           a
           spoonful
           ,
           and
           it
           tasted
           high
           of
           Spicery
           ,
           tho
           she
           assured
           me
           there
           was
           not
           one
           grain
           of
           Spice
           in
           it
           ,
           nor
           of
           any
           other
           mixture
           whatsoever
           .
           Thus
           the
           heat
           that
           is
           in
           this
           Wine
           ,
           becomes
           a
           fire
           ,
           and
           distils
           it self
           ,
           throwing
           up
           the
           more
           spirituous
           parts
           of
           it
           to
           the
           top
           of
           the
           Hog●head
           .
        
         
           Both
           here
           ,
           and
           in
           the
           Grisons
           ,
           the
           meat
           is
           very
           juicy
           ,
           the
           Fowl
           is
           excellent
           ,
           their
           Roots
           and
           Herbs
           very
           tastful
           ;
           but
           the
           Fish
           of
           their
           Lakes
           is
           beyond
           any
           thing
           I
           ever
           saw
           .
           They
           live
           in
           a
           great
           Simplicity
           as
           to
           their
           Habit
           an●
           Furniture
           ,
           but
           they
           have
           plenty
           of
           all
           things
           ,
           and
           are
           extream
           rich
           ;
           the
           Family
           where
           we
           were
           so
           nobly
           entertained
           ,
           is
           believed
           to
           have
           about
           two
           hundred
           thousan●
           
           Crowns
           :
           here
           the
           Italian
           custom
           ,
           of
           one
           only
           of
           a
           Family
           that
           marries
           ,
           takes
           place
           generally
           .
           There
           is
           a
           sort
           of
           
             Pots
             of
             Stone
          
           that
           is
           used
           not
           only
           in
           all
           the
           Kitchins
           here
           ,
           but
           almost
           all
           Lombardy
           over
           ,
           called
           Lav●ge
           ,
           the
           Stone
           feels
           oily
           and
           scaly
           ,
           so
           that
           a
           Scale
           sticks
           to
           ones
           Finger
           that
           touches
           it
           ,
           and
           is
           somewhat
           of
           the
           nature
           of
           a
           Slate
           ;
           there
           are
           but
           three
           Mines
           of
           it
           known
           in
           these
           parts
           ,
           one
           near
           Chavennes
           ,
           another
           in
           the
           Valteline
           ,
           and
           the
           third
           in
           the
           Grisons
           ;
           but
           the
           first
           is
           much
           the
           best
           ;
           they
           generally
           cut
           it
           in
           the
           Mine
           round
           ,
           of
           about
           a
           Foot
           and
           a
           half
           Diameter
           ,
           and
           about
           a
           Foot
           and
           a
           quarter
           thick
           ,
           and
           they
           work
           it
           in
           a
           Mill
           ,
           where
           the
           Chizzels
           that
           cut
           the
           Stone
           are
           driven
           about
           by
           a
           Wheel
           that
           is
           set
           a
           going
           by
           Water
           ,
           and
           which
           is
           so
           ordered
           ,
           that
           he
           who
           manages
           the
           Chizzel
           ,
           very
           easily
           draws
           forward
           the
           Wheel
           out
           of
           the
           course
           of
           the
           Water
           ;
           they
           turn
           off
           first
           the
           outward
           coat
           of
           this
           Stone
           ,
           till
           it
           is
           exactly
           smooth
           ,
           and
           then
           they
           separate
           one
           Pot
           after
           another
           by
           those
           small
           and
           hooked
           Chizzels
           ,
           by
           which
           they
           make
           a
           Nest
           of
           Pots
           ,
           all
           one
           within
           another
           ,
           the
           outward
           and
           biggest
           being
           as
           big
           as
           an
           Ordinary
           Beef-pot
           ,
           and
           the
           inward
           Pot
           being
           no
           bigger
           than
           a
           small
           Pipkin
           ;
           these
           they
           arm
           with
           hooks
           and
           Circles
           of
           brass
           ,
           and
           so
           they
           are
           served
           by
           them
           in
           their
           Kitchins
           .
           One
           of
           these
           Stone-pots
           takes
           heat
           and
           boils
           sooner
           than
           any
           Pot
           of
           Mettle
           ;
           and
           whereas
           the
           Bottoms
           of
           Mettle-pots
           transmit
           the
           heat
           so
           intirely
           to
           the
           Liquor
           within
           ,
           that
           they
           are
           not
           insufferably
           hot
           ;
           the
           bottom
           of
           this
           Stone-pot
           ,
           which
           is
           about
           twice
           so
           thick
           as
           a
           
             Pot
             of
             Mettle
          
           ,
           burns
           extreamly
           ;
           it
           never
           cracks
           ,
           neither
           gives
           it
           any
           sort
           of
           taste
           to
           the
           Liquor
           that
           is
           boiled
           in
           it
           :
           but
           if
           it
           falls
           to
           the
           Ground
           ,
           it
           is
           very
           brittle
           ;
           yet
           this
           is
           repaired
           by
           patching
           it
           up
           ;
           for
           they
           piece
           their
           broken
           Pots
           so
           close
           ,
           tho
           without
           any
           cement
           ,
           by
           sowing
           with
           Iron-wire
           the
           broken
           parcels
           together
           ,
           that
           in
           the
           holes
           which
           they
           pierce
           with
           the
           wire
           ;
           there
           is
           not
           the
           least
           breach
           made
           ,
           except
           that
           which
           the
           wire
           both
           makes
           and
           fills
           .
           The
           passage
           to
           this
           Mine
           is
           very
           inconvenient
           ;
           for
           they
           must
           creep
           into
           it
           for
           near
           
             half
             a
             
             mile
          
           through
           a
           Rock
           ,
           that
           is
           so
           hard
           ,
           that
           the
           passage
           i●
           not
           above
           three
           foot
           high
           ,
           and
           so
           those
           that
           draw
           out
           the
           Stones
           creep
           all
           along
           upon
           their
           belly
           ,
           having
           a
           Candle
           fastned
           in
           their
           forehead
           ,
           and
           the
           Stone
           laid
           on
           a
           fort
           of
           Cushion
           made
           for
           it
           upon
           their
           hips
           :
           The
           Stones
           are
           commonly
           two
           hundred
           weight
           .
        
         
           But
           having
           mentioned
           some
           falls
           of
           Mountains
           in
           those
           parts
           ,
           I
           cannot
           pass
           by
           the
           extraordinary
           fate
           of
           the
           To●●
           of
           Pleurs
           ,
           that
           was
           about
           a
           league
           from
           Chavennes
           to
           the
           North
           ,
           in
           the
           same
           bottom
           ,
           but
           on
           a
           ground
           that
           is
           a
           little
           more
           raised
           :
           The
           Town
           was
           half
           the
           bigness
           of
           Chavennes
           ,
           the
           number
           of
           the
           Inhabitants
           was
           abou●
           two
           and
           
             twenty
             hundred
          
           persons
           ,
           but
           is
           was
           much
           more
           nobly
           built
           ;
           for
           besides
           the
           great
           Palace
           of
           the
           Francke●
           ,
           that
           cost
           some
           millions
           ,
           there
           were
           many
           other
           Palace●
           that
           were
           built
           by
           several
           rich
           Factors
           both
           of
           Milan
           ,
           and
           the
           other
           parts
           of
           Italy
           ,
           who
           liked
           the
           scituation
           and
           air
           ,
           as
           well
           as
           the
           freedom
           of
           the
           Government
           of
           this
           place
           ,
           so
           they
           used
           to
           come
           hither
           during
           the
           Heats
           ,
           and
           here
           they
           gave
           themselves
           all
           the
           indulgences
           that
           a
           va●●
           Wealth
           could
           furnish
           .
           By
           one
           of
           the
           Palaces
           ,
           that
           was
           a
           little
           distant
           from
           the
           Town
           ,
           which
           was
           not
           overwhelmed
           with
           it
           ,
           one
           may
           judge
           of
           the
           rest
           :
           It
           was
           an
           out-house
           of
           the
           Family
           of
           the
           Francken
           ,
           and
           yet
           is
           may
           compare
           with
           many
           Palaces
           in
           Italy
           ;
           and
           certainly
           ,
           House
           and
           Gardens
           could
           not
           cost
           so
           little
           as
           one
           hundred
           thousand
           Crowns
           .
           The
           voluptuousness
           of
           this
           place
           became
           very
           crying
           ,
           and
           
             Madam
             de
             Salis
          
           told
           me
           ,
           that
           she
           heard
           her
           Mother
           often
           relate
           some
           passages
           of
           a
           
             Protestant
             Min●sters
          
           Sermons
           ,
           that
           preached
           in
           a
           little
           Charch
           ,
           which
           those
           of
           the
           Religion
           had
           there
           ,
           and
           warned
           them
           ofte●
           of
           the
           tertible
           judgements
           of
           God
           which
           were
           hanging
           over
           their
           heads
           ,
           and
           that
           he
           believed
           would
           suddenl●
           break
           out
           upon
           them
           .
           On
           the
           25th
           of
           August
           1618.
           a●
           Inhabitant
           came
           and
           told
           them
           to
           be
           gone
           ;
           for
           he
           saw
           the
           Mountains
           cleaving
           ;
           but
           he
           was
           laughed
           at
           for
           his
           pain●
           ▪
           He
           had
           a
           Daughter
           ,
           whom
           he
           perswaded
           to
           leave
           all
           and
           go
           with
           him
           ;
           but
           when
           she
           was
           gone
           out
           of
           Town
           wit●
           
           him
           ,
           she
           called
           to
           mind
           that
           she
           had
           not
           locked
           the
           Door
           of
           a
           Room
           in
           which
           she
           had
           some
           things
           of
           Value
           ,
           and
           so
           she
           went
           back
           to
           do
           that
           ,
           and
           was
           buried
           with
           the
           rest
           ;
           for
           at
           the
           hour
           of
           Supper
           the
           Hill
           fell
           down
           ,
           and
           buried
           the
           Town
           and
           all
           the
           Inhabitants
           ,
           so
           that
           not
           one
           person
           escaped
           :
           The
           fall
           of
           the
           Mountains
           did
           so
           fill
           the
           Channel
           of
           the
           River
           ,
           that
           the
           first
           news
           those
           of
           Chavennes
           had
           of
           it
           ,
           was
           by
           the
           failing
           of
           their
           River
           ;
           for
           three
           or
           four
           hours
           there
           came
           not
           a
           drop
           of
           Water
           ;
           but
           the
           River
           wrought
           for
           it self
           a
           new
           course
           ,
           and
           returned
           to
           them
           ;
           I
           could
           hear
           no
           particular
           Character
           of
           the
           Man
           who
           escaped
           ,
           so
           I
           must
           leave
           the
           secret
           Reason
           of
           so
           singular
           a
           Preservation
           to
           the
           great
           discovery
           at
           the
           last
           Day
           of
           those
           steps
           of
           Divine
           Providence
           ,
           that
           are
           now
           so
           unaccountable
           .
           Some
           of
           the
           Family
           of
           the
           Francken
           got
           some
           Miners
           to
           work
           under
           ground
           ,
           to
           find
           out
           the
           Wealth
           that
           was
           buried
           in
           their
           Palace
           ;
           for
           besides
           their
           Plate
           and
           Furniture
           ,
           there
           was
           a
           great
           Cash
           and
           many
           Iewels
           in
           the
           House
           :
           the
           Miners
           pretended
           they
           could
           find
           nothing
           ;
           but
           they
           went
           to
           their
           Country
           of
           Tirol
           ,
           and
           built
           fine
           Houses
           ,
           and
           a
           great
           Wealth
           appeared
           ,
           of
           which
           no
           other
           visible
           account
           could
           be
           given
           but
           this
           ,
           that
           they
           had
           found
           some
           of
           that
           Treasure
           .
           The
           Chief
           Factors
           of
           Italy
           have
           been
           Grisons
           ;
           and
           they
           told
           me
           ,
           that
           as
           the
           Trade
           of
           Banking
           began
           in
           Lombardy
           ,
           so
           that
           all
           Europe
           over
           ,
           a
           Lombard
           and
           a
           Bank
           signifyed
           the
           same
           thing
           ;
           so
           the
           great
           Bankers
           of
           Lombardy
           were
           Grisons
           ;
           and
           to
           this
           day
           the
           Grisons
           drive
           a
           great
           Trade
           in
           Money
           ;
           for
           a
           Man
           there
           of
           a
           hundred
           thousand
           Crowns
           Estate
           ,
           hath
           not
           perhaps
           a
           third
           part
           of
           this
           within
           the
           Countrey
           ,
           but
           puts
           it
           out
           in
           the
           neighbouring
           States
           ,
           And
           the
           Liberty
           of
           the
           Countrey
           is
           such
           ,
           that
           the
           Natives
           when
           they
           have
           made
           up
           Estates
           elsewhere
           ,
           are
           glad
           to
           leave
           even
           Italy
           and
           the
           best
           parts
           of
           Germany
           ,
           and
           to
           come
           and
           live
           among
           those
           Mountains
           ,
           of
           which
           the
           very
           sight
           is
           enough
           to
           fill
           a
           Man
           with
           horror
           .
        
         
           From
           Chavennes
           we
           went
           for
           two
           hours
           through
           a
           plain
           to
           the
           Lake
           of
           Chavennes
           ,
           which
           is
           almost
           round
           ,
           
           and
           is
           about
           two
           mile
           Diameter
           .
           This
           Lake
           falls
           into
           the
           Lake
           of
           Como
           ,
           over
           against
           the
           Fort
           Fuentes
           ;
           when
           we
           passed
           there
           ,
           the
           Water
           was
           so
           low
           ,
           that
           the
           Boat
           could
           not
           easily
           get
           over
           a
           Bank
           that
           lay
           between
           the
           two
           Lakes
           .
           The
           Lake
           of
           Como
           is
           about
           eight
           and
           forty
           miles
           long
           ,
           and
           four
           broad
           ;
           it
           runs
           between
           two
           ranges
           of
           Hills
           :
           I
           did
           nor
           stay
           long
           enough
           in
           Como
           to
           give
           any
           Description
           of
           it
           ;
           for
           I
           thought
           to
           have
           returned
           that
           way
           from
           a
           little
           Tour
           that
           I
           made
           into
           the
           Bailiages
           that
           the
           Switzers
           have
           in
           Italy
           ,
           of
           
             Lugane
             ,
             Locarmo
          
           ,
           and
           Bellinzona
           :
           but
           I
           took
           another
           Course
           ,
           so
           I
           saw
           nothing
           in
           Como
           ;
           the
           best
           thing
           in
           it
           is
           a
           fine
           Chappel
           ,
           which
           the
           present
           Pope
           ,
           who
           is
           a
           Native
           of
           Como
           ,
           is
           building
           .
           From
           Como
           we
           went
           eight
           miles
           to
           Codelaggo
           ,
           which
           belongs
           to
           the
           Switzers
           ,
           and
           from
           thence
           to
           Lugane
           we
           had
           eight
           miles
           of
           Lake
           :
           This
           Lake
           doth
           not
           run
           in
           an
           even
           current
           ,
           as
           the
           other
           Lakes
           ,
           that
           rise
           under
           the
           Alps
           ,
           but
           the
           scituation
           of
           the
           Hills
           about
           it
           ,
           throws
           it
           into
           several
           courses
           .
        
         
           The
           Switzers
           have
           here
           several
           little
           Provinces
           ,
           or
           Bailiages
           ,
           of
           which
           during
           the
           Wars
           of
           Italy
           ,
           betwee●
           the
           Dukes
           of
           Milan
           and
           the
           two
           Crowns
           ,
           in
           
             Francis
             th●
             First
          
           ,
           and
           
             Charles
             the
             Fifths
          
           time
           ,
           they
           possessed
           themselves
           of
           as
           a
           Pledge
           for
           payment
           of
           their
           Arrears
           ;
           and
           they
           were
           then
           such
           considerable
           Allies
           ,
           that
           they
           made
           both
           the
           Competitors
           for
           the
           
             Dutchy
             of
             Milan
          
           court
           them
           by
           turns
           ,
           and
           became
           the
           peaceable
           Prossessors
           of
           almost
           all
           that
           tract
           that
           lies
           between
           the
           Lake
           of
           Como
           to
           the
           Counttey
           of
           the
           Valessii
           ,
           or
           the
           Valleys
           ,
           The
           Inhabitan●s
           here
           are
           so
           well
           used
           ,
           they
           live
           so
           free
           of
           all
           Impositions
           ,
           and
           the
           Switzers
           Government
           is
           so
           gentle
           ,
           that
           here
           I
           must
           tell
           you
           another
           Paradox
           ,
           this
           is
           the
           Worst
           Countrey
           ,
           the
           least
           Productive
           ,
           the
           most
           exposed
           to
           Cold
           ,
           and
           the
           least
           Capable
           of
           Trade
           of
           all
           Italy
           ,
           and
           yet
           it
           is
           by
           far
           the
           best
           Peopled
           of
           any
           that
           I
           saw
           in
           all
           Italy
           :
           There
           belon●
           to
           the
           Bailiage
           of
           Lugane
           alone
           ,
           ninety
           nine
           Villages
           ,
           of
           which
           a
           great
           many
           are
           very
           large
           ,
           and
           all
           are
           full
           of
           People
           .
           The
           twelve
           Ancient
           Cantons
           have
           their
           turns
           of
           all
           the
           Bailiages
           and
           other
           Offices
           here
           :
           but
           when
           it
           come
           
           to
           the
           turn
           of
           those
           of
           the
           Religion
           ,
           their
           Bailifs
           must
           be
           contented
           with
           private
           Devotions
           in
           their
           own
           House
           ,
           but
           can
           have
           no
           publick
           Exercises
           ,
           nor
           so
           much
           as
           a
           Minister
           in
           their
           Houses
           .
           For
           here
           ,
           as
           in
           the
           Valteline
           ,
           when
           the
           Spaniards
           confirmed
           the
           Right
           of
           the
           Cantons
           to
           those
           Territories
           ,
           they
           made
           an
           express
           Provision
           ,
           that
           no
           Religion
           except
           the
           Popish
           should
           be
           tolerated
           here
           ;
           so
           that
           the
           Bailif
           ,
           who
           is
           the
           Prince
           ,
           of●en
           hath
           not
           the
           free
           Liberty
           of
           his
           Religion
           in
           these
           Parts
           .
           The
           Balifs
           here
           make
           their
           Advantages
           ,
           as
           well
           as
           in
           the
           other
           Parts
           of
           Switzerland
           ,
           but
           yet
           with
           more
           Caution
           ;
           for
           they
           take
           great
           care
           not
           to
           give
           the
           Natives
           any
           distast
           ,
           tho
           the
           Miseries
           ,
           to
           which
           they
           see
           all
           their
           Neighbours
           exposed
           ,
           and
           the
           Abundance
           and
           Liberty
           in
           which
           they
           live
           ,
           should
           by
           all
           appearance
           deliver
           their
           Masters
           from
           any
           great
           Apprehensions
           of
           a
           Revolt
           :
           A
           great
           many
           Mechanicks
           of
           all
           sorts
           live
           in
           these
           parts
           ,
           who
           go
           all
           Summer
           long
           over
           Italy
           ,
           and
           come
           back
           hither
           with
           what
           they
           have
           gained
           ,
           and
           live
           free
           of
           all
           Taxes
           .
           I
           was
           told
           ,
           that
           some
           Nephews
           of
           Popes
           ,
           in
           particular
           the
           Barberines
           ,
           had
           treated
           with
           the
           Switzers
           ,
           to
           buy
           this
           Countrey
           from
           them
           ,
           and
           so
           to
           erect
           it
           into
           a
           Principality
           ;
           and
           that
           they
           had
           resolved
           to
           offer
           twelve
           hundred
           thousand
           Crowns
           to
           the
           twelve
           Cantons
           :
           but
           they
           found
           it
           would
           certainly
           be
           rejected
           ;
           so
           they
           made
           not
           the
           propositions
           to
           the
           Diet
           of
           the
           Cantons
           ,
           as
           they
           once
           intended
           :
           and
           it
           is
           certain
           ,
           whensoever
           this
           Countrey
           is
           brought
           under
           a
           Yoke
           ,
           like
           that
           which
           the
           rest
           of
           Italy
           bears
           ,
           it
           will
           be
           soon
           abandoned
           ;
           for
           there
           is
           nothing
           that
           draws
           so
           many
           People
           to
           live
           in
           so
           ill
           a
           Soil
           ,
           when
           they
           are
           in
           sight
           of
           the
           best
           Soil
           of
           Europe
           ,
           but
           the
           easiness
           of
           the
           Government
           .
           From
           Lugane
           I
           went
           to
           the
           
             Lago
             Maggiore
          
           ,
           which
           is
           a
           great
           and
           noble
           Lake
           ,
           it
           is
           fix
           and
           fifty
           Miles
           long
           ,
           and
           in
           most
           places
           six
           Miles
           broad
           ,
           and
           a
           hundred
           Fathom
           deep
           about
           the
           middle
           of
           it
           ,
           it
           makes
           a
           great
           Bay
           to
           the
           Westward
           ;
           and
           there
           lies
           here
           two
           Islands
           ,
           called
           the
           
             Berromean
             Islands
          
           ,
           that
           are
           certainly
           the
           loveliest
           spots
           of
           ground
           in
           the
           
           World
           ;
           there
           is
           nothing
           in
           all
           Italy
           ,
           that
           can
           be
           compared
           to
           them
           ;
           they
           have
           the
           full
           view
           of
           the
           Lake
           ;
           and
           the
           ground
           rises
           so
           sweetly
           in
           them
           ,
           that
           nothing
           can
           be
           imagined
           like
           the
           Terrasses
           here
           ;
           they
           belong
           to
           two
           Counts
           of
           the
           
             Borromean
             Family
          
           .
           I
           was
           only
           in
           one
           of
           them
           ,
           which
           belongs
           to
           the
           Head
           of
           the
           Family
           ,
           who
           is
           Nephew
           to
           the
           famous
           Cardinal
           known
           by
           the
           name
           of
           
             S.
             Carlo
          
           :
           on
           the
           West-end
           lies
           the
           Palac●
           ▪
           which
           is
           one
           of
           the
           best
           of
           Italy
           ;
           for
           the
           Lodgings
           within
           ,
           tho
           the
           Architecture
           is
           but
           ordinary
           ,
           there
           is
           one
           noble
           Apartment
           above
           four
           and
           twenty
           foo●
           high
           ;
           and
           there
           is
           a
           vast
           Addition
           making
           to
           it
           ;
           and
           here
           is
           a
           great
           Collection
           of
           noble
           Pictures
           ,
           beyond
           any
           thing
           I
           saw
           out
           of
           Rome
           :
           The
           whole
           Island
           is
           a
           Garden
           ,
           except
           a
           little
           corner
           to
           the
           South
           ,
           set
           off
           for
           a
           Village
           o●
           about
           forty
           little
           Houses
           ;
           and
           because
           the
           figure
           of
           the
           Island
           was
           not
           more
           regular
           by
           nature
           ,
           they
           have
           buil●
           great
           Vaults
           and
           Portico's
           along
           the
           Rock
           ,
           which
           are
           all
           made
           Grotesque
           ,
           and
           so
           they
           have
           brought
           it
           to
           a
           regular
           form
           by
           laying
           Earth
           over
           those
           Vaults
           .
           There
           i●
           first
           a
           Garden
           to
           the
           East
           ,
           that
           rises
           up
           from
           the
           Lakes
           by
           five
           Rows
           of
           Terrasses
           ,
           on
           the
           three
           sides
           of
           the
           Garden
           that
           are
           watered
           by
           the
           Lake
           ;
           the
           Stairs
           are
           noble
           ;
           the
           Walls
           are
           all
           covered
           with
           Oranges
           and
           Citrons
           ;
           and
           a
           more
           beautiful
           spot
           of
           a
           Garden
           cannot
           be
           seen
           :
           There
           are
           two
           Buildings
           in
           the
           two
           Corners
           of
           this
           Garden
           ,
           the
           one
           is
           only
           a
           Mill
           for
           fetching
           up
           the
           Water
           ,
           and
           the
           other
           is
           a
           noble
           Summer-house
           all
           wainscotted
           ,
           if
           I
           may
           speak
           so
           ,
           with
           Alabaster
           and
           Marble
           ,
           of
           a
           fine
           colour
           ,
           inclining
           to
           red
           ;
           from
           this
           Garden
           one
           goes
           in
           a
           level
           to
           all
           the
           rest
           of
           the
           Alleys
           and
           
             Parterres
             ,
             Herb-Gardens
          
           and
           Flower-Gardens
           ;
           in
           all
           which
           there
           are
           variety
           of
           Fou●tains
           and
           Arbors
           ;
           but
           the
           great
           Parterre
           is
           a
           surprising
           thing
           ;
           for
           as
           it
           is
           well
           furnished
           with
           Statues
           and
           Fountains
           ,
           and
           is
           of
           a
           vast
           extent
           ,
           and
           justly
           scituated
           to
           the
           Palace
           ,
           so
           at
           the
           Further-end
           of
           it
           ,
           there
           is
           a
           great
           Mount
           ,
           that
           face
           of
           it
           that
           looks
           to
           the
           Parterre
           is
           made
           like
           a
           Theater
           ,
           all
           full
           of
           Fountains
           and
           Statues
           ,
           the
           height
           
           rising
           up
           in
           five
           several
           Rows
           ,
           it
           being
           about
           fif●y
           foot
           high
           ,
           and
           about
           fourscore
           foot
           in
           front
           ;
           and
           round
           this
           Mount
           ,
           answering
           to
           the
           five
           Rows
           into
           which
           the
           Theater
           is
           divided
           ,
           there
           goes
           as
           many
           Terrasses
           of
           noble
           Walks
           ;
           the
           Walls
           are
           all
           as
           close
           covered
           with
           Oranges
           and
           Citrons
           as
           any
           of
           our
           Walls
           in
           England
           are
           with
           Laurel
           :
           the
           Top
           of
           the
           Mount
           is
           seventy
           foot
           long
           and
           forty
           broad
           ;
           and
           here
           is
           a
           vast
           Cistern
           ,
           into
           which
           the
           Mill
           plays
           up
           the
           Water
           that
           must
           furnish
           all
           the
           Fountains
           :
           The
           Fountains
           were
           not
           quite
           finished
           when
           I
           was
           there
           ;
           but
           when
           all
           is
           finished
           ,
           this
           place
           will
           look
           like
           an
           
             In●hanted
             Island
          
           .
           The
           Freshness
           of
           the
           Air
           ,
           it
           being
           both
           in
           a
           Lake
           ,
           and
           near
           the
           Mountains
           ,
           the
           fragant
           Smell
           ,
           the
           beautiful
           Prospect
           ,
           and
           the
           delighting
           Variety
           that
           is
           here
           ,
           makes
           it
           such
           a
           Habitation
           for
           Summer
           ,
           that
           perhaps
           the
           whole
           World
           hath
           nothing
           like
           it
           .
           From
           this
           I
           went
           to
           Sestio
           ,
           a
           miserable
           Village
           at
           the
           end
           of
           the
           Lake
           ▪
           and
           her●
           I
           began
           to
           feel
           a
           mighty
           change
           ,
           being
           now
           in
           Lombardy
           ,
           which
           is
           certainly
           the
           beautifullest
           Countrey
           that
           can
           be
           imagined
           ,
           the
           ground
           lies
           so
           even
           ,
           it
           is
           so
           well
           watered
           ,
           so
           sweetly
           divided
           by
           Rows
           of
           Trees
           ,
           inclosing
           every
           piece
           of
           ground
           of
           an
           Acre
           or
           two
           Acres
           compass
           ,
           that
           it
           cannot
           be
           denied
           ,
           that
           here
           is
           a
           vast
           extent
           of
           Soil
           ,
           above
           two
           hundred
           Miles
           long
           ,
           and
           in
           many
           places
           a
           hundred
           Miles
           broad
           ,
           where
           the
           whole
           Countrey
           is
           equal
           to
           the
           loveliest
           spots
           in
           all
           England
           or
           France
           ;
           it
           hath
           all
           the
           Sweetness
           that
           Holland
           or
           Flanders
           have
           ,
           but
           with
           a
           warmer
           Sun
           ,
           and
           a
           better
           Air
           ;
           the
           Neighbour-hood
           of
           the
           Mountains
           causes
           a
           freshness
           of
           Air
           here
           ,
           that
           makes
           the
           Soil
           the
           most
           desirable
           place
           to
           live
           in
           that
           can
           be
           seen
           ,
           if
           the
           Government
           were
           not
           so
           excessively
           severe
           ,
           that
           there
           is
           nothing
           but
           Poverty
           over
           all
           this
           rich
           Countrey
           .
           A
           Traveller
           in
           many
           places
           finds
           almost
           nothing
           ,
           and
           is
           so
           ill
           furnished
           ,
           that
           if
           he
           doth
           not
           buy
           provisions
           in
           the
           great
           Towns
           ,
           he
           will
           be
           obliged
           to
           a
           very
           severe
           Diet
           ,
           in
           a
           Countrey
           that
           he
           should
           think
           flowed
           with
           Milk
           and
           Hony
           :
           but
           I
           shall
           say
           more
           of
           this
           hereafter
           .
           The
           
             Lago
             Maggiore
          
           
           discharges
           it self
           in
           the
           River
           Tesine
           ,
           which
           runs
           with
           such
           a
           force
           ,
           that
           we
           went
           thirty
           Miles
           in
           three
           hours
           ,
           having
           but
           one
           Rower
           ,
           and
           the
           Water
           was
           no
           way
           swelled
           .
           From
           this
           we
           went
           into
           the
           Canale
           ,
           which
           
             F●an●is
             is
             the
             First
          
           cut
           from
           this
           River
           to
           the
           Town
           of
           Milan
           ;
           which
           is
           about
           thirty
           foot
           broad
           ,
           and
           on
           both
           its
           Bank●
           there
           are
           such
           provisions
           to
           discharge
           the
           Water
           when
           it
           rises
           to
           such
           a
           height
           ,
           that
           it
           can
           never
           be
           fuller
           of
           Water
           than
           is
           intended
           it
           should
           be
           ;
           it
           lies
           also
           so
           even
           ,
           that
           sometimes
           for
           six
           Miles
           together
           one
           sees
           the
           line
           so
           exact
           ,
           that
           there
           is
           not
           the
           least
           crook
           :
           it
           is
           thirty
           Miles
           long
           ,
           and
           is
           the
           best
           Advantage
           that
           the
           
             Town
             of
             Milan
          
           hath
           fo●
           Water
           Carriage
           .
        
         
           I
           will
           not
           entertain
           you
           with
           a
           long
           description
           of
           this
           great
           City
           ,
           which
           is
           one
           of
           the
           noblest
           in
           the
           World
           ,
           to
           be
           an
           Inland
           Town
           ,
           that
           hath
           no
           great
           Court
           ,
           no
           Commerce
           ,
           either
           by
           Sea
           ,
           or
           any
           Navigable
           River
           ,
           and
           that
           is
           now
           the
           Metropolis
           of
           a
           very
           small
           State
           ;
           for
           that
           which
           is
           not
           Mountainous
           in
           this
           State
           ,
           is
           not
           above
           sixty
           Miles
           square
           ,
           and
           yet
           it
           produces
           a
           Wealth
           that
           is
           surprising
           :
           It
           pays
           for
           an
           establishment
           of
           seven
           and
           forty
           thousand
           Men
           ,
           and
           yet
           there
           are
           not
           sixteen
           thousand
           Souldiers
           effectively
           in
           it
           ;
           so
           many
           are
           eat
           up
           by
           those
           in
           whose
           hands
           the
           Government
           is
           lodged
           :
           But
           the
           Vastness
           of
           the
           Town
           ,
           the
           Nobleness
           of
           the
           Buildings
           ,
           and
           above
           all
           ,
           the
           surprising
           Riches
           of
           the
           Churches
           and
           Convents
           ,
           are
           signs
           of
           great
           Wealth
           :
           The
           Dome
           hath
           nothing
           to
           commend
           it
           of
           Architect●re
           ,
           it
           being
           built
           in
           the
           rude
           Gothick
           manner
           ;
           but
           for
           the
           vastness
           and
           riches
           of
           the
           Building
           ,
           it
           is
           equal
           to
           any
           in
           
             Italy
             ,
             St.
             Peters
          
           it self
           not
           excepted
           .
           It
           is
           all
           Marble
           ,
           both
           Pavement
           and
           Walls
           ,
           both
           outside
           and
           Inside
           ,
           and
           on
           the
           Top
           it
           is
           all
           flagg'd
           with
           Marble
           ;
           and
           there
           is
           the
           vastest
           Number
           of
           Ni●hes
           for
           Statu●s
           of
           Marble
           ,
           both
           within
           and
           without
           that
           are
           any
           where
           to
           be
           seen
           .
           It
           is
           true
           ,
           the
           Statues
           〈◊〉
           some
           of
           the
           Niches
           are
           not
           proportioned
           to
           the
           Niches
           themselves
           ;
           the
           Frontispiece
           is
           not
           yet
           made
           ,
           it
           is
           to
           be
           all
           over
           covered
           with
           Statues
           and
           Bas-reliefs
           ;
           and
           Pillars
           ,
           
           of
           which
           there
           are
           four
           Rows
           in
           the
           Body
           of
           the
           Church
           ,
           have
           each
           of
           them
           eight
           Niches
           at
           the
           top
           ,
           for
           so
           many
           Statues
           ;
           and
           tho
           one
           would
           think
           this
           Church
           so
           full
           of
           Statues
           ,
           that
           almost
           every
           Saint
           hath
           his
           Statue
           ,
           yet
           I
           was
           assured
           ,
           they
           wanted
           
             seven
             thousand
          
           to
           finish
           the
           design
           ;
           but
           these
           m●st
           chiefly
           belong
           to
           the
           Frontispi●e
           :
           The
           Church
           as
           I
           could
           measure
           it
           by
           walking
           over
           it
           in
           an
           equal
           pace
           ,
           is
           five
           hundred
           foot
           long
           ,
           and
           two
           hundred
           wide
           ;
           the
           Quire
           is
           wainscotted
           and
           carved
           in
           so
           extraordinary
           a
           manner
           ,
           that
           I
           never
           saw
           Passion
           so
           well
           expressed
           in
           Wood
           ;
           it
           contains
           sixty
           Stalls
           ,
           and
           they
           have
           almost
           all
           the
           Histories
           of
           the
           Gospel
           represented
           in
           them
           .
           Just
           under
           the
           Cupulo
           lies
           
             S.
             Carlo's
          
           Body
           ,
           as
           I
           was
           told
           ,
           in
           a
           great
           Case
           of
           Cristal
           of
           vast
           value
           ;
           but
           I
           could
           not
           come
           near
           it
           ;
           for
           we
           were
           there
           on
           two
           Ho●y-dayes
           ,
           and
           there
           was
           a
           perpetual
           crowd
           about
           it
           ;
           and
           the
           Superstition
           of
           the
           People
           for
           his
           Body
           ,
           is
           such
           ,
           that
           on
           a
           Holy-day
           one
           runs
           a
           hazard
           that
           comes
           near
           it
           without
           doing
           some
           Reverence
           .
           His
           Canonization
           cost
           the
           To●n
           a
           hundred
           thousand
           Crown●
           ;
           they
           pretend
           they
           have
           Miracles
           too
           for
           Cardinal
           
             Fred●rigo
             B●rromeo
          
           ,
           but
           they
           will
           not
           set
           about
           his
           Canonisation
           ,
           the
           price
           is
           so
           high
           .
           The
           Plate
           and
           other
           Presents
           made
           to
           
             S.
             C●rlo
          
           are
           things
           of
           a
           prodigious
           value
           ;
           some
           Services
           for
           the
           Altar
           are
           all
           of
           Gold
           ;
           some
           very
           Massive
           ,
           and
           set
           wi●h
           Iewels
           ,
           others
           so
           finely
           wrought
           ,
           that
           the
           fashion
           is
           thought
           equal
           to
           the
           value
           of
           the
           mettle
           ;
           the
           Habits
           and
           all
           the
           other
           Ornaments
           for
           the
           Function
           of
           his
           Canoni●ation
           are
           all
           of
           an
           incredible
           Wealth
           .
           He
           was
           indeed
           a
           Pr●late
           of
           great
           merit
           ,
           and
           according
           to
           the
           An●wer
           that
           a
           Fryer
           made
           to
           
             Philip
             de
             Comines
          
           ,
           when
           he
           asked
           him
           ,
           how
           they
           came
           to
           qualifie
           one
           of
           the
           worst
           of
           their
           Princes
           with
           the
           Title
           of
           Saint
           in
           an
           inscription
           which
           he
           read
           ,
           which
           was
           ,
           that
           they
           gave
           that
           Title
           to
           all
           their
           Benefactors
           ;
           never
           man
           deserved
           of
           a
           Town
           this
           Title
           so
           justly
           as
           
             Cardinal
             Borromeo
          
           did
           ;
           for
           he
           laid
           out
           a
           prodigious
           Wealth
           in
           Milan
           ,
           leaving
           nothing
           to
           his
           Family
           ,
           but
           the
           honour
           of
           having
           produced
           so
           great
           a
           man
           ,
           whi●h
           
           is
           a
           real
           temporal
           inheritance
           to
           it
           ;
           for
           as
           there
           have
           been
           since
           that
           time
           ,
           two
           Cardinals
           of
           that
           Family
           ,
           so
           it
           is
           esteemed
           a
           
             Casa
             Santa
          
           ;
           and
           every
           time
           that
           it
           produces
           an
           Ecclesiastick
           of
           any
           considerable
           merit
           ,
           he
           is
           sure
           ,
           if
           he
           lives
           to
           it
           ,
           to
           be
           raised
           to
           this
           Archbishoprick
           ;
           for
           if
           there
           were
           one
           of
           the
           Family
           capable
           ●f
           it
           ,
           and
           that
           did
           not
           carry
           it
           ,
           that
           alone
           might
           dispose
           the
           State
           to
           a
           Rebellion
           ,
           and
           he
           were
           a
           bold
           man
           that
           would
           adventure
           on
           a
           Competition
           with
           one
           of
           t●is
           Family
           .
           He
           laid
           out
           a
           great
           deal
           on
           the
           Dome
           ,
           and
           consecrated
           it
           ,
           tho
           the
           work
           w●ll
           not
           be
           quite
           finished
           yet
           for
           some
           Ages
           ;
           that
           being
           one
           of
           the
           Crafts
           of
           the
           
             Italian
             Priests
          
           ,
           never
           to
           finish
           a
           great
           design
           ,
           that
           so
           by
           keeping
           it
           still
           in
           an
           unfinisht
           estate
           ,
           they
           may
           be
           alwayes
           drawing
           great
           Donatives
           to
           it
           ,
           from
           the
           Superstition
           of
           the
           People
           .
           He
           built
           the
           
             Arch
             Bishops
             Palace
          
           ,
           which
           is
           very
           noble
           ,
           and
           a
           Semin●ry
           ,
           a
           Colledge
           for
           the
           Switzers
           ,
           several
           
             Parish
             Churches
          
           ,
           an●
           many
           Convents
           .
           In
           short
           ,
           the
           w●ole
           Town
           is
           full
           of
           the
           marks
           of
           his
           Wealth
           The
           Riches
           of
           the
           Churches
           of
           Milan
           ,
           strike
           one
           with
           amazement
           ,
           the
           Building
           ,
           the
           Painting
           ,
           the
           Altars
           ,
           and
           the
           Plate
           ,
           and
           everything
           in
           the
           Convents
           ,
           except
           their
           Librairies
           ,
           are
           all
           signs
           both
           of
           great
           Wealth
           and
           of
           a
           very
           powerful
           Superstition
           ;
           but
           their
           Librairies
           not
           only
           here
           ,
           but
           all
           Italy
           over
           ,
           are
           scandalous
           things
           ;
           the
           Room
           is
           often
           fine
           ,
           and
           richly
           adotned
           ,
           but
           the
           Books
           are
           few
           ,
           ill
           bound
           ,
           and
           worse
           chosen
           ;
           and
           the
           ignorance
           of
           the
           Priests
           both
           secular
           and
           Regular
           is
           such
           ,
           that
           no
           man
           ,
           that
           hath
           not
           had
           occasion
           to
           discover
           it
           ,
           can
           easily
           believe
           it
           .
           The
           Convent
           of
           
             S.
             Victor
          
           ,
           that
           is
           without
           the
           Town
           ,
           is
           by
           much
           the
           richest
           ,
           it
           is
           composed
           of
           
             Canons
             Regular
          
           ;
           called
           in
           Italy
           the
           
             Order
             of
             Mount
             Olive
          
           ,
           or
           Olivetan
           ;
           that
           of
           the
           Bernabites
           is
           extream
           rich
           ;
           there
           is
           a
           Pulpit
           and
           a
           Confessional
           all
           inlaid
           with
           Agates
           ,
           of
           different
           colours
           ,
           finely
           spotted
           Marbles
           ,
           and
           of
           
             Lapis
             L●zulis
          
           ,
           that
           are
           thought
           almost
           inestimable
           .
           
             S.
             Lauren●e
          
           has
           a
           noble
           Cupulo
           ,
           and
           a
           Pulpit
           of
           the
           fame
           sorm
           with
           that
           of
           the
           Bernabites
           .
           The
           Iesuits
           ,
           the
           Theatin●s
           ,
           the
           Dominicans
           ,
           and
           
             S.
             Sebastians
          
           
           are
           very
           rich
           .
           The
           Cittad●l
           is
           too
           well
           known
           to
           need
           a
           description
           ;
           it
           is
           very
           regularly
           built
           ;
           and
           is
           a
           most
           effectual
           restraint
           to
           keep
           the
           Town
           in
           order
           ,
           but
           it
           could
           not
           stand
           outagainst
           a
           good
           Army
           three
           dayes
           ;
           for
           it
           is
           so
           little
           ,
           and
           so
           full
           of
           Buildings
           ,
           that
           it
           could
           not
           resist
           a
           showr
           of
           Bombs
           .
           The
           Hospital
           is
           indeed
           a
           Royal
           Building
           ;
           I
           was
           told
           it
           had
           ninety
           thousand
           Crowns
           Revenue
           :
           The
           old
           Court
           is
           large
           ,
           and
           would
           look
           noble
           ,
           if
           it
           were
           not
           for
           the
           new
           Court
           that
           is
           near
           it
           ,
           which
           is
           two
           hundred
           and
           fifty
           foot
           square
           ,
           and
           there
           are
           three
           rows
           of
           Corridors
           or
           Galleries
           all
           round
           the
           Court
           ,
           one
           in
           every
           stage
           ,
           according
           to
           the
           Italian
           manner
           ,
           which
           makes
           the
           Lodgings
           very
           convenient
           ,
           and
           gives
           a
           Gallery
           before
           every
           door
           :
           It
           is
           true
           ,
           these
           take
           up
           a
           great
           deal
           of
           the
           Building
           ,
           being
           ordinarily
           eight
           or
           ten
           foot
           broad
           ;
           but
           then
           here
           is
           an
           open
           space
           ,
           that
           is
           extream
           cool
           on
           that
           side
           where
           the
           Su●
           doth
           not
           lye
           ;
           for
           it
           is
           all
           open
           to
           the
           Air
           ,
           the
           Wall
           being
           only
           supported
           by
           Pillars
           ,
           at
           the
           distance
           of
           fifteen
           or
           twenty
           foot
           one
           from
           another
           .
           In
           this
           Hospital
           there
           are
           not
           only
           Galleries
           full
           of
           Beds
           on
           both
           sides
           ,
           as
           is
           ordinary
           in
           all
           Hospitals
           ;
           hut
           there
           are
           also
           a
           great
           many
           Chambers
           ,
           in
           which
           persons
           ,
           whose
           condition
           was
           formerl●
           distinguished
           ,
           are
           treated
           with
           a
           particular
           Care.
           There
           is
           an
           out-house
           ,
           which
           is
           called
           the
           Lazarette
           ,
           that
           is
           without
           the
           Walls
           ,
           which
           belongs
           to
           this
           Hospital
           ,
           it
           is
           an
           extract
           quarter
           of
           a
           mile
           square
           ,
           and
           there
           are
           three
           hundred
           and
           sixty
           Rooms
           in
           it
           ,
           and
           a
           Gallery
           runs
           all
           along
           before
           the
           Chambers
           ,
           so
           that
           as
           the
           service
           is
           convenient
           ,
           the
           sick
           have
           a
           covered
           walk
           before
           their
           Doors
           .
           In
           the
           middle
           of
           this
           vast
           square
           there
           is
           an
           
             Octangular
             Chappel
          
           ,
           so
           contrived
           ,
           that
           the
           sick
           from
           all
           their
           Beds
           may
           see
           the
           el●vation
           of
           the
           Host●e
           ,
           and
           adore
           it
           :
           This
           House
           is
           for
           the
           Plague
           ,
           or
           for
           infections
           Feavers
           ;
           and
           the
           Sick
           that
           want
           a
           freer
           Air
           ,
           are
           also
           removed
           hither
           .
        
         
           As
           for
           the
           Devotions
           of
           this
           place
           ,
           I
           saw
           here
           the
           
             Ambrosian
             Office
          
           ,
           which
           is
           distingusshed
           from
           the
           Roman
           ;
           both
           in
           the
           Musick
           ,
           which
           is
           much
           simpler
           ,
           and
           some
           other
           
           Rites
           :
           the
           Gospel
           is
           read
           in
           a
           hi●h
           Pulpit
           at
           the
           lower
           end
           of
           the
           Quire
           ,
           that
           so
           it
           may
           be
           heard
           by
           all
           the
           people
           ;
           tho
           this
           is
           needless
           ,
           since
           it
           is
           read
           in
           a
           language
           that
           they
           do
           not
           understand
           :
           when
           they
           go
           to
           say
           high
           Mass
           ,
           the
           Priest
           comes
           from
           the
           
             high
             Altar
          
           to
           the
           lower-end
           of
           the
           Quire
           ,
           where
           the
           Offertory
           of
           the
           Bread
           and
           the
           Wine
           is
           made
           by
           some
           of
           the
           Laity
           ;
           they
           were
           Nu●s
           that
           made
           it
           when
           I
           was
           there
           ;
           I
           heard
           a
           Capucin
           Preach
           here
           ;
           it
           was
           the
           first
           Sermon
           I
           heard
           in
           Italy
           ,
           and
           I
           was
           much
           surprized
           at
           many
           Comical
           Expressions
           and
           Gestures
           ,
           but
           most
           of
           all
           with
           the
           Conclusion
           ;
           for
           there
           being
           in
           all
           the
           Pulpits
           of
           Italy
           a
           Crucifix
           on
           the
           side
           of
           the
           Pulpit
           towards
           the
           Altar
           ;
           he
           ,
           after
           a
           long
           address
           to
           it
           ,
           at
           last
           in
           a
           forced
           Transport
           ,
           took
           it
           in
           his
           A●ms
           ,
           and
           hugged
           it
           ,
           and
           kissed
           it
           :
           But
           I
           observed
           ,
           that
           before
           he
           kiss'd
           it
           ,
           he
           seeing
           some
           dust
           on
           it
           ,
           blew
           it
           off
           very
           carefully
           ;
           for
           I
           was
           just
           under
           the
           Pulpit
           :
           He
           entertained
           it
           with
           a
           long
           and
           tender
           Caress
           ,
           and
           held
           it
           out
           to
           the
           people
           ,
           and
           would
           have
           forced
           Tears
           both
           from
           himself
           and
           them
           ;
           yet
           I
           saw
           none
           shed
           .
           But
           if
           the
           Sermon
           in
           the
           morning
           surprized
           me
           ,
           I
           wondred
           no
           less
           at
           two
           Discourses
           that
           I
           heard
           in
           one
           Church
           ,
           at
           the
           same
           time
           ,
           in
           the
           afternoon
           :
           for
           there
           were
           two
           Bodies
           of
           men
           set
           down
           in
           different
           places
           of
           the
           Church
           ,
           all
           covered
           ,
           and
           two
           Laymen
           ,
           in
           ordinary
           habits
           were
           entertaining
           them
           with
           Discourses
           of
           Religion
           in
           a
           Cate●histical
           stile
           :
           These
           were
           Consrairies
           ,
           and
           those
           were
           some
           of
           the
           more
           devout
           ,
           that
           instructed
           the
           rest
           .
           This
           ,
           as
           I
           never
           saw
           any
           where
           else
           ,
           so
           I
           do
           not
           know
           whether
           it
           is
           peculiar
           to
           Milan
           ,
           or
           not
           .
           My
           Conductor
           could
           not
           speak
           Latin
           ,
           and
           the
           Italian
           there
           is
           so
           different
           from
           the
           true
           Tuscan
           ,
           which
           I
           only
           knew
           ,
           that
           I
           could
           not
           understand
           him
           when
           he
           was
           ingaged
           in
           a
           long
           discourse
           ,
           so
           I
           was
           not
           clearly
           informed
           of
           this
           matter
           :
           but
           I
           am
           apt
           to
           think
           ,
           it
           might
           have
           been
           some
           institution
           of
           
             C●rdinal
             Borromeos
          
           .
           The
           
             Ambrosian
             Li●rary
          
           ,
           founded
           by
           
             Cardinal
             Frederick
             Borromeo
          
           ,
           is
           a
           very
           noble
           Room
           ,
           and
           wel
           furnished
           ,
           only
           it
           is
           too
           full
           of
           School-men
           
           and
           Canonists
           ;
           which
           are
           the
           chief
           studies
           of
           It●ly
           ;
           an●
           it
           hath
           too
           few
           Books
           of
           a
           more
           solid
           and
           useful
           learning
           .
           One
           part
           of
           the
           disposition
           of
           the
           R●om
           was
           pleasant
           ;
           there
           is
           a
           great
           number
           of
           Chairs
           ,
           placed
           all
           round
           it
           at
           a
           competent
           distance
           from
           one
           another
           ;
           and
           to
           every
           Chair
           there
           belongs
           a
           Desk
           ,
           with
           an
           E●ritoire
           ,
           that
           hath
           Pen
           ,
           Ink
           ,
           and
           Paper
           in
           it
           ;
           so
           that
           every
           Man
           finds
           tools
           here
           for
           such
           extracts
           as
           he
           would
           make
           .
           There
           is
           a
           little
           Room
           of
           Manuscripts
           at
           the
           e●d
           of
           the
           great
           Gallery
           ,
           but
           the
           Library-keeper
           knows
           little
           of
           them
           ;
           a
           great
           many
           of
           them
           relate
           to
           their
           
             Saint
             Charle●
          
           .
           I
           saw
           some
           fragments
           of
           
             Latin
             Bi●les
          
           ,
           but
           none
           seemed
           to
           be
           above
           six
           hundred
           Years
           old
           ;
           there
           are
           also
           some
           fragments
           of
           
             Saint
             Am●roses
             W●rks
          
           ,
           and
           of
           
             Saint
             Ieroms
             Epistles
          
           ,
           that
           are
           of
           the
           same
           antiquity
           .
           I
           was
           sorry
           not
           to
           find
           
             Saint
             Ambrose's
             Works
          
           inti●e
           ,
           that
           I
           might
           have
           seen
           ,
           whether
           the
           Books
           of
           the
           Sacraments
           ,
           are
           ascribed
           to
           him
           in
           ancient
           C●pies
           ;
           for
           perhaps
           they
           belong
           to
           a
           more
           modern
           Author
           .
           It
           is
           true
           ,
           in
           these
           Books
           ,
           the
           Doctrine
           of
           a
           sort
           of
           a
           
             corporal
             presence
          
           is
           asserred
           in
           very
           high
           expressions
           ;
           but
           there
           is
           one
           thing
           mentioned
           in
           them
           ,
           which
           is
           stronger
           against
           it
           ,
           than
           all
           those
           Citations
           can
           be
           for
           it
           ;
           for
           the
           Author
           gives
           us
           the
           formal
           Words
           of
           the
           
             Prayer
             of
             Consecration
          
           in
           his
           time
           ,
           which
           he
           prefaces
           with
           some
           solemnity
           :
           
             will
             you
             know
             how
             the
             change
             is
             wrought
             ,
             hear
             the
             Heavenly
             Words
             ?
             For
             the
             Priest
             saith
             ,
          
           &c.
           
           But
           whereas
           in
           the
           present
           Canon
           of
           the
           Mass
           ,
           the
           
             Prayer
             of
             consecration
          
           is
           for
           a
           good
           part
           of
           it
           very
           near
           in
           the
           same
           Words
           with
           those
           which
           he
           mentions
           ,
           there
           is
           one
           essential
           difference
           ;
           for
           in
           the
           Canon
           they
           now
           pray
           ,
           that
           the
           Hosty
           may
           be
           to
           them
           
             the
             Body
             and
             Blood
             of
             Christ
          
           ;
           (
           which
           by
           the
           way
           doth
           not
           agree
           too
           well
           with
           the
           notion
           of
           Transubstan●●●tion
           ,
           and
           approacheth
           more
           to
           the
           Doctrine
           of
           the
           Lu●herans
           :
           )
           whereas
           in
           the
           Prayer
           ,
           cited
           by
           that
           Author
           ,
           the
           Hosty
           is
           said
           to
           be
           
             The
             Figure
             of
             the
             B●dy
             and
             Blood
             of
             Christ
          
           :
           here
           is
           the
           language
           of
           the
           whole
           Church
           of
           that
           time
           ,
           and
           in
           the
           most
           important
           part
           of
           
             the
             
             Divine
             Office
          
           ,
           which
           signifie●h
           more
           to
           me
           ,
           than
           a
           thousand
           Quotations
           out
           of
           particular
           Writers
           ,
           which
           are
           but
           ▪
           their
           Private
           Opinions
           :
           but
           this
           is
           the
           Voice
           of
           the
           
             whole
             Body
          
           in
           its
           Addresses
           to
           God
           :
           and
           it
           seems
           ,
           the
           
             Church
             of
             Rome
          
           ,
           when
           the
           new
           Doctrine
           of
           the
           
             Corporal
             Presence
          
           was
           received
           ,
           saw
           that
           this
           
             Prayer
             of
             Consecration
          
           could
           not
           consist
           with
           it
           ,
           which
           made
           her
           change
           such
           a
           main
           Part
           of
           the
           Office.
           This
           gave
           me
           a
           curiosity
           every
           where
           to
           search
           for
           ancient
           Offices
           ,
           but
           I
           found
           none
           in
           the
           Abbey
           of
           
             St.
             Germains
          
           ,
           that
           seemed
           older
           than
           the
           times
           of
           
             Charles
             the
             Great
          
           ;
           so
           I
           found
           none
           of
           any
           great
           Antiquity
           in
           all
           Italy
           :
           Those
           published
           by
           
             Cardinal
             Bona
          
           ,
           and
           since
           by
           
             P.
             Mabillon
          
           ,
           that
           were
           brought
           from
           Heidelberg
           ,
           are
           the
           most
           ancient
           that
           are
           in
           the
           Vatican
           ;
           but
           these
           seem
           not
           to
           be
           above
           eight
           hundred
           years
           old
           :
           There
           are
           none
           of
           the
           ancient
           
             Roman
             Offices
          
           now
           to
           be
           seen
           in
           the
           Vatican
           .
           I
           was
           amazed
           to
           find
           none
           of
           any
           great
           Antiquity
           ;
           which
           made
           me
           conclude
           ,
           that
           either
           they
           were
           destroyed
           ,
           that
           so
           the
           difference
           between
           Ancient
           and
           Modern
           Rituals
           might
           not
           be
           turned
           against
           that
           Church
           ,
           as
           an
           undeniable
           Evidence
           ,
           to
           prove
           the
           Changes
           that
           she
           hath
           made
           in
           
             divine
             Matters
          
           ;
           or
           ,
           that
           they
           were
           so
           well
           kept
           ,
           that
           Hereticks
           were
           not
           to
           be
           suffered
           to
           look
           into
           them
           .
           But
           to
           return
           to
           the
           
             Ambrosian
             Library
          
           ,
           there
           is
           in
           it
           a
           Manuscript
           of
           great
           Antiquity
           ,
           tho
           not
           of
           such
           great
           consequence
           ,
           which
           is
           Ruffinus's
           Translation
           of
           Iosephus
           ,
           that
           is
           written
           in
           the
           old
           
             Roman
             hand
          
           ,
           which
           is
           very
           hard
           to
           be
           read
           .
           But
           there
           is
           a
           deed
           in
           the
           curious
           Collection
           that
           
             Count
             Mascard●
          
           ha●h
           made
           at
           Verona
           ,
           which
           by
           the
           date
           appears
           to
           have
           been
           written
           in
           Theodosius's
           time
           ,
           which
           is
           the
           same
           sort
           of
           w●iting
           with
           the
           Manuscript
           of
           Ruffinus
           ,
           so
           that
           it
           may
           be
           reckoned
           to
           have
           been
           writ
           in
           Ruffinus
           his
           own
           time
           ,
           and
           this
           is
           the
           most
           valuable
           ,
           tho
           the
           least
           known
           Curiosity
           in
           the
           whole
           Library
           .
        
         
           I
           need
           not
           say
           any
           thing
           of
           the
           curious
           Works
           in
           Christal
           that
           are
           to
           be
           seen
           in
           Milan
           ,
           the
           greatest
           quantities
           that
           are
           in
           Europe
           ,
           are
           found
           in
           the
           Alps
           ,
           and
           are
           wrought
           
           here
           ,
           but
           this
           is
           too
           well
           known
           to
           need
           any
           further
           inlargement
           .
           It
           is
           certain
           ,
           the
           Alps
           have
           much
           Wealth
           shut
           up
           in
           their
           Rocks
           ,
           if
           the
           Inhabitants
           knew
           how
           to
           search
           for
           it
           :
           But
           I
           heard
           of
           no
           Mines
           tha●
           were
           wrought
           ,
           except
           
             Iron
             Mines
          
           ;
           yet
           by
           the
           colourings
           ,
           that
           in
           many
           places
           the
           Fountains
           make
           ,
           as
           they
           run
           along
           the
           Rocks
           ,
           one
           sees
           cause
           to
           believe
           ,
           that
           there
           are
           Mines
           and
           Miner●ls
           shut
           up
           within
           them
           .
           Gold
           has
           been
           often
           found
           in
           the
           River
           of
           Arve
           ,
           that
           runs
           by
           Geneva
           .
        
         
           The
           last
           curiosity
           that
           I
           shall
           mention
           of
           the
           
             Town
             of
             Milan
          
           ,
           is
           the
           Cabinet
           of
           the
           
             Chanoine
             Settala
          
           ,
           which
           is
           now
           in
           his
           Brothers
           hands
           ,
           where
           there
           are
           a
           great
           many
           very
           valuable
           things
           ,
           both
           of
           Art
           and
           Nature
           :
           there
           is
           a
           lump
           of
           Ore
           ,
           in
           which
           there
           is
           both
           Gold
           ,
           and
           Silver
           ,
           and
           Emeralds
           ,
           and
           Diamonds
           ,
           which
           was
           brought
           from
           Peru.
           There
           are
           many
           curious
           motions
           ,
           where
           by
           an
           unseen
           Spring
           ,
           a
           Ball
           ,
           after
           it
           hath
           rowled
           down
           through
           many
           winding
           descents
           is
           ●hrown
           up
           ,
           and
           so
           it
           seems
           to
           be
           a
           perpetual
           motion
           ;
           this
           is
           done
           in
           several
           forms
           ,
           and
           it
           is
           well
           enough
           disguised
           to
           deceive
           the
           vulgar
           .
           Many
           motions
           of
           little
           Animals
           ,
           that
           run
           about
           by
           Springs
           ,
           are
           also
           very
           pretty
           .
           There
           is
           a
           Load-stone
           of
           a
           vast
           force
           ,
           that
           carries
           a
           great
           Chain
           :
           There
           is
           also
           a
           moustrous
           Child
           ,
           that
           was
           lately
           born
           in
           the
           Hospital
           ,
           which
           is
           preserved
           in
           Spirit
           of
           Wine
           :
           it
           is
           double
           below
           ,
           it
           hath
           one
           Breast
           and
           Neck
           two
           pair
           of
           Ears
           ,
           a
           vast
           Head
           ,
           and
           but
           one
           Face
           .
           As
           for
           the
           Buildings
           in
           M●lan
           ,
           they
           are
           big
           and
           substantial
           ;
           but
           they
           have
           not
           much
           regular
           ,
           or
           beautiful
           Architecture
           :
           The
           
             Governor's
             Palace
          
           hath
           some
           noble
           Apartments
           in
           it
           :
           the
           chief
           Palace
           of
           the
           Town
           is
           that
           of
           the
           Homodei
           ,
           which
           was
           built
           by
           a
           Bankier
           .
           There
           is
           one
           Inconvenience
           in
           Milan
           ,
           which
           throws
           down
           all
           the
           Pleasure
           that
           one
           can
           find
           in
           it
           :
           They
           have
           no
           
             glass
             Windows
          
           ,
           so
           that
           one
           is
           either
           exposed
           to
           the
           Air
           ,
           or
           shut
           up
           in
           a
           Dungeon
           :
           and
           ●his
           is
           so
           universal
           ,
           that
           there
           is
           not
           one
           House
           of
           ten
           that
           hath
           Glass
           in
           their
           Windows
           :
           The
           same
           D●fect
           is
           in
           Florence
           ,
           besides
           all
           the
           small
           Towns
           of
           Italy
           ,
           which
           is
           an
           effect
           of
           their
           Poverty
           Fort
           what
           by
           the
           Oppression
           of
           the
           Government
           ,
           wha
           by
           the
           no
           less
           squeezing
           Oppression
           of
           their
           Priests
           ,
           who
           drain
           all
           the
           rest
           of
           their
           Weal●h
           ,
           
           that
           is
           not
           eat
           up
           by
           the
           Prince
           ,
           to
           inrich
           their
           Churches
           and
           Convents
           ,
           the
           People
           here
           are
           reduced
           to
           a
           Poverty
           ,
           that
           cannot
           be
           easily
           believed
           by
           one
           that
           sees
           the
           Wealth
           that
           is
           in
           their
           Churches
           :
           and
           this
           is
           going
           on
           so
           constantly
           in
           Milan
           ,
           that
           it
           is
           scarce
           accountable
           from
           whence
           so
           vast
           a
           Treasure
           can
           be
           found
           ;
           but
           Purgatory
           is
           a
           Fund
           not
           easily
           exhausted
           .
           The
           Wealth
           of
           the
           Milanese
           consists
           chiefly
           in
           their
           Silks
           ,
           and
           that
           Trade
           falls
           so
           mightily
           by
           the
           vast
           Importations
           that
           the
           
             East
             India
             Companies
          
           bring
           into
           Europe
           ,
           that
           all
           Italy
           feels
           this
           very
           sensibly
           ,
           and
           languish
           extreamly
           by
           the
           great
           fall
           that
           is
           in
           the
           Silk-Trade
           .
           There
           is
           a
           great
           magnificence
           in
           Milan
           ;
           the
           Nobility
           affect
           to
           make
           a
           noble
           Appearance
           ,
           both
           in
           their
           Cloaths
           ,
           their
           Coaches
           ,
           and
           their
           Attendants
           ;
           and
           the
           Women
           go
           abroad
           with
           more
           Freedom
           here
           ,
           than
           in
           any
           Town
           of
           Italy
           .
           And
           thus
           I
           have
           told
           you
           all
           that
           hitherto
           occurred
           to
           me
           ,
           that
           I
           thought
           worth
           your
           knowledge
           .
           I
           am
        
         
           
             Yours
             .
          
        
         
           
             Postscript
             .
          
           
             In
             the
             Account
             that
             I
             gave
             you
             of
             Geneva
             ,
             I
             forgot
             to
             Mention
             a
             very
             extraordinary
             Person
             that
             is
             there
             ,
             
               M●stris
               Walkier
            
             ;
             her
             Father
             is
             of
             Shaff-house
             ,
             she
             lost
             her
             sight
             when
             she
             was
             but
             a
             year
             old
             ,
             by
             being
             too
             near
             a
             Stove
             that
             was
             very
             hot
             :
             There
             rests
             in
             the
             upper
             part
             of
             her
             eye
             so
             much
             sight
             ,
             that
             she
             distinguishes
             day
             from
             night
             :
             and
             when
             any
             person
             stands
             between
             her
             and
             the
             light
             ,
             she
             will
             distinguish
             by
             the
             Head
             and
             its
             dress
             a
             Man
             from
             a
             Woman
             ;
             but
             when
             she
             turns
             down
             her
             Eyes
             ,
             she
             sees
             nothing
             :
             she
             hath
             a
             vast
             Memory
             ;
             besides
             the
             French
             ,
             that
             is
             her
             natural
             Language
             ,
             she
             speaks
             both
             
               High-Dutch
               ,
               Italian
            
             and
             Lat●n
             :
             she
             hath
             all
             the
             Psalms
             by
             heart
             ,
             in
             French
             ;
             and
             many
             of
             them
             in
             Dutch
             and
             Italian
             :
             she
             understands
             the
             
               Old
               Philosophy
            
             well
             ;
             and
             is
             now
             studying
             the
             New
             :
             she
             hath
             studied
             the
             Body
             of
             Divinity
             well
             ,
             and
             hath
             the
             Text
             of
             the
             S●riptures
             very
             ready
             :
             On
             all
             which
             matters
             I
             had
             long
             conversation
             with
             her
             ;
             she
             not
             only
             sings
             well
             ,
             but
             she
             playes
             rarely
             on
             the
             Organ
             ;
             and
             I
             was
             told
             ,
             
             she
             played
             on
             the
             Violin
             ,
             but
             her
             Violin
             was
             out
             of
             order
             .
             But
             that
             which
             is
             most
             of
             all
             ,
             is
             ,
             she
             writes
             legibly
             :
             in
             order
             to
             her
             learning
             to
             write
             ,
             her
             Father
             ,
             who
             is
             a
             worthy
             man
             ,
             and
             hath
             such
             tenderness
             for
             her
             ,
             that
             he
             furnisheth
             her
             with
             Masters
             of
             all
             sorts
             ,
             ordered
             Letters
             to
             be
             carved
             in
             Wood
             ,
             and
             she
             by
             feeling
             the
             Characters
             ,
             formed
             such
             ●n
             Idea
             of
             them
             ,
             that
             she
             writes
             with
             a
             Crayon
             so
             distinctly
             ,
             that
             her
             writing
             can
             be
             well
             read
             ,
             of
             which
             I
             have
             several
             Essayes
             .
             I
             saw
             her
             write
             ;
             she
             doth
             it
             more
             nimbly
             than
             can
             be
             imagined
             ;
             she
             hath
             a
             Machine
             ●hat
             holds
             the
             Paper
             ,
             and
             keeps
             her
             alwayes
             in
             Line
             .
             But
             that
             which
             is
             above
             all
             the
             rest
             ,
             she
             is
             a
             person
             of
             extraordinary
             Devotion
             ,
             great
             resignation
             to
             the
             Will
             of
             God
             ,
             and
             a
             profound
             humility
             :
             The
             Preceptor
             ,
             that
             her
             Father
             kept
             in
             the
             house
             with
             her
             ,
             hath
             likewise
             a
             wonderful
             Faculty
             of
             acquiring
             Tongues
             .
             When
             he
             came
             first
             to
             Geneva
             (
             for
             he
             is
             of
             Zurich
             )
             he
             spoke
             not
             a
             word
             of
             French
             ,
             and
             within
             thirteen
             Months
             he
             preacht
             in
             French
             correctly
             ,
             and
             with
             a
             good
             Accent
             :
             He
             also
             began
             to
             study
             Italian
             in
             the
             Month
             of
             November
             ,
             and
             before
             the
             end
             of
             the
             following
             February
             he
             preacht
             in
             Italian
             ;
             his
             accent
             was
             good
             ,
             and
             his
             stile
             was
             floried
             ,
             which
             was
             very
             extraordinary
             ;
             for
             the
             Italian
             Language
             is
             not
             spoken
             in
             Geneva
             ,
             tho
             the
             race
             of
             the
             Italians
             do
             keep
             up
             still
             an
             
               Italian
               Church
            
             there
             .
          
        
      
       
         
         
           THE
           THIRD
           LETTER
           .
        
         
           
             Florence
             ,
             
               the
               5
               th
               of
               November
               ,
               1685.
               
            
          
        
         
           I
           Have
           now
           another
           Month
           over
           my
           Hea●
           ,
           since
           I
           writ
           last
           to
           you
           ,
           and
           so
           I
           know
           you
           expect
           an
           Account
           of
           the
           most
           considerable
           things
           that
           have
           occurred
           to
           me
           since
           my
           last
           from
           Milan
           .
           Twenty
           miles
           from
           Milan
           we
           past
           through
           Lodi
           ,
           a
           miserable
           Gar●ison
           ,
           tho
           a
           Frontier
           Town
           ;
           but
           indeed
           ,
           the
           Frontiers
           ,
           both
           of
           the
           Spaniards
           and
           the
           Venetians
           ,
           as
           well
           as
           those
           of
           the
           other
           Prin●es
           of
           Italy
           ,
           shew
           that
           they
           are
           not
           very
           apprehensive
           of
           one
           another
           ;
           and
           when
           one
           passes
           through
           those
           places
           ,
           whi●h
           are
           represented
           in
           History
           ,
           as
           places
           of
           great
           strength
           ,
           capable
           of
           resisting
           a
           long
           Siege
           ,
           he
           must
           acknowledge
           ,
           that
           the
           sight
           of
           them
           brings
           the
           Idea
           that
           he
           had
           conceived
           of
           them
           ,
           a
           great
           many
           degrees
           lower
           .
           For
           Lombardy
           ,
           which
           was
           so
           long
           the
           seat
           of
           War
           ,
           could
           not
           stand
           out
           against
           a
           good
           Army
           now
           so
           many
           dayes
           ,
           as
           it
           did
           then
           years
           .
           The
           Garrison
           of
           Crema
           ,
           which
           is
           the
           first
           of
           the
           Venetian
           Territory
           ,
           is
           no
           better
           than
           that
           of
           Lodi
           ,
           only
           the
           People
           in
           the
           
             Venetian
             Dominion
          
           live
           happier
           than
           under
           the
           Spaniard
           .
        
         
           The
           Senate
           sends
           Podesta's
           ,
           much
           like
           the
           Bailifs
           of
           the
           Switzers
           ,
           who
           order
           the
           Ju●●ice
           and
           the
           Civil
           Government
           of
           the
           Iurisdiction
           assigned
           them
           :
           There
           is
           also
           a
           Captain-Gen●ral
           ,
           who
           hath
           the
           
             Military
             Authority
          
           in
           his
           hands
           ;
           and
           these
           two
           are
           Checks
           upon
           one
           another
           ;
           as
           the
           B●ss●'s
           and
           the
           Cadi's
           are
           among
           the
           Turks
           .
           But
           here
           in
           Crema
           ,
           the
           Town
           is
           so
           small
           ,
           that
           both
           these
           are
           in
           one
           person
           .
           We
           were
           there
           in
           the
           time
           of
           the
           
             Fair
             ;
             Linnen
             Cloath
          
           ,
           and
           Cheese
           (
           which
           tho
           it
           goes
           by
           the
           name
           
           of
           the
           Parmesan
           ,
           is
           made
           chief●y
           in
           Lodi
           )
           are
           the
           main
           Commodities
           of
           the
           Fair.
           The
           magnificence
           of
           the
           Podesta
           appeared
           very
           extraordinary
           ;
           for
           he
           went
           through
           the
           Fair
           with
           a
           great
           Train
           of
           Coaches
           ,
           all
           in
           his
           own
           Livery
           ;
           and
           the
           two
           Coaches
           ,
           in
           which
           he
           and
           his
           Lady
           ride
           ,
           were
           both
           extraordinary
           rich
           :
           his
           was
           a
           huge
           Bed-coach
           ,
           all
           the
           out-side
           black
           Velvet
           ,
           and
           a
           mighty
           rich
           Gold
           Fringe
           ,
           lined
           with
           black
           Damask
           ,
           flowered
           with
           Gold.
           From
           Crema
           it
           is
           thirty
           Miles
           to
           Bres●ia
           ,
           which
           is
           a
           great
           Town
           ,
           and
           full
           of
           Trade
           and
           Wealth
           ;
           here
           they
           make
           the
           best
           Barrils
           for
           Pistols
           and
           Muskers
           of
           all
           Italy
           :
           there
           are
           great
           Iron
           Works
           near
           it
           ;
           but
           the
           War
           with
           the
           Turk
           had
           occasioned
           an
           order
           ,
           that
           none
           might
           be
           sold
           without
           a
           Permission
           from
           Venice
           :
           They
           are
           building
           a
           Noble
           Dome
           at
           Brescia
           :
           I
           was
           shewed
           a
           Nunnery
           there
           ,
           which
           is
           now
           under
           a
           great
           Disgrace
           ;
           some
           years
           ago
           ,
           a
           new
           Bishop
           coming
           thither
           ,
           began
           with
           the
           Visitation
           of
           that
           Nunnery
           ;
           he
           discovered
           two
           Vauits
           ,
           by
           one
           ,
           Men
           came
           ordinarily
           into
           it
           ;
           and
           by
           another
           ,
           the
           Nuns
           that
           were
           big
           ,
           went
           and
           lay
           in
           of
           Child-bed
           :
           when
           he
           was
           examining
           the
           Nuns
           severely
           concerning
           those
           Vaults
           ,
           some
           of
           them
           told
           him
           ,
           that
           his
           own
           Priests
           did
           much
           worse
           .
           He
           shut
           up
           the
           Nuns
           ,
           so
           that
           those
           who
           are
           profefsed
           live
           still
           there
           ,
           but
           none
           come
           to
           take
           the
           Vail
           :
           and
           by
           this
           means
           the
           House
           will
           soon
           come
           to
           an
           end
           .
           The
           Cittadel
           lies
           over
           the
           Town
           on
           a
           Rock
           ,
           and
           commands
           it
           absolutely
           .
           Both
           here
           ,
           and
           in
           Crema
           ,
           the
           Towns
           have
           begun
           a
           Complement
           within
           these
           last
           ten
           or
           twelve
           years
           to
           their
           Podesta's
           ,
           which
           is
           matter
           of
           great
           Ornament
           to
           their
           Palaces
           ,
           but
           will
           grow
           to
           a
           vast
           charge
           ;
           for
           they
           erect
           Statues
           to
           their
           Podesta's
           :
           and
           this
           being
           once
           bogun
           ,
           must
           be
           carried
           on
           ;
           otherwise
           those
           to
           whom
           the
           like
           honour
           is
           not
           done
           ,
           will
           resent
           it
           as
           a
           high
           affront
           ;
           and
           the
           Revenges
           of
           the
           
             Noble
             Venetians
          
           are
           dread●ul
           things
           to
           their
           Subjects
           .
           This
           name
           of
           Podesta
           is
           very
           ancient
           ;
           for
           in
           the
           Roman
           times
           ,
           the
           chief
           Magistrates
           of
           the
           lesser
           Towns
           were
           called
           the
           Potestas
           ▪
           as
           appears
           by
           that
           of
           
             Iuvenal
             ,
             Fidenarum
             Gabiorumve
             esse
             Potestas
             .
          
        
         
         
           From
           Brescia
           ,
           the
           beauty
           of
           Lombardy
           is
           a
           little
           interrupted
           ;
           for
           as
           all
           the
           way
           from
           Milan
           to
           Brescia
           is
           as
           one
           Garden
           ,
           so
           here
           on
           the
           one
           side
           we
           come
           under
           the
           Mountains
           ,
           and
           we
           pass
           by
           the
           Lake
           of
           Guarda
           ,
           which
           is
           forty
           miles
           long
           ,
           and
           where
           it
           is
           broadest
           ,
           is
           twenty
           miles
           over
           :
           The
           Miles
           indeed
           ,
           all
           Lombardy
           over
           ,
           are
           extream
           short
           ;
           for
           I
           walkt
           often
           four
           or
           five
           Miles
           in
           a
           walk
           ,
           and
           I
           found
           a
           thousand
           paces
           made
           their
           common
           Mile
           ;
           but
           in
           Tuscany
           and
           the
           Kingdom
           of
           Napels
           ,
           the
           mile
           is
           fifteen
           hundred
           paces
           .
           We
           pass
           through
           a
           great
           Heath
           for
           seven
           or
           eight
           miles
           on
           this
           side
           of
           Verona
           ,
           which
           begins
           to
           be
           cultivated
           .
           Verona
           is
           a
           vast
           Town
           ,
           and
           much
           of
           it
           well
           built
           ;
           there
           are
           many
           rich
           Chur●hes
           in
           it
           :
           but
           there
           is
           so
           little
           Trade
           stirring
           ,
           and
           so
           little
           money
           going
           ,
           that
           it
           is
           not
           easie
           here
           to
           change
           a
           Pistol
           ,
           without
           taking
           their
           Coyn
           of
           base
           Alloy
           ,
           which
           doth
           not
           pass
           out
           of
           the
           Veronese
           :
           for
           this
           seems
           a
           strange
           Maxim
           of
           the
           Venetians
           ,
           to
           suffer
           those
           small
           States
           ,
           to
           retain
           still
           a
           Coyn
           peculiar
           to
           them
           ,
           which
           is
           extream
           inconvenient
           for
           Commerce
           .
           The
           known
           Antiquity
           of
           Verona
           is
           the
           Amphitheater
           ,
           one
           of
           the
           least
           of
           all
           that
           the
           Romans
           built
           ,
           but
           the
           best
           preserved
           ;
           for
           tho
           most
           of
           the
           great
           Stones
           of
           the
           outside
           are
           pickt
           out
           ;
           yet
           the
           great
           flopping
           Vault
           ,
           on
           which
           the
           rows
           of
           the
           seats
           are
           laid
           ,
           is
           intire
           ;
           the
           rows
           of
           the
           sea●s
           are
           also
           intire
           ,
           they
           are
           sour
           and
           forty
           Rows
           ;
           every
           Row
           is
           a
           foot
           and
           half
           high
           ,
           and
           as
           much
           in
           breadth
           ,
           so
           that
           a
           Man
           sits
           conveniently
           in
           them
           under
           the
           feet
           of
           those
           of
           the
           higher
           Row
           :
           &
           allowing
           every
           Man
           a
           foot
           and
           a
           half
           ,
           the
           whole
           Amphitheather
           can
           hold
           twenty
           three
           thousand
           Persons
           .
           In
           the
           Vaults
           ,
           under
           the
           Rows
           of
           Seats
           ,
           were
           the
           stalls
           of
           the
           Beasts
           that
           were
           presented
           to
           entertain
           the
           Company
           :
           the
           thi●kness
           of
           the
           Building
           ,
           from
           the
           outward
           Wall
           to
           the
           lowest
           Row
           of
           Seats
           ,
           is
           ninty
           foot
           :
           But
           this
           Noble
           Remnant
           of
           Antiquity
           ,
           is
           so
           often
           ,
           and
           so
           copiously
           described
           ,
           that
           I
           will
           say
           no
           more
           of
           it
           .
           The
           ne●t
           thing
           of
           value
           is
           the
           famous
           
             Museum
             Calceolarium
          
           ,
           now
           in
           the
           Hands
           ●of
           the
           
             Count
             Mascardo
          
           ,
           where
           there
           is
           a
           whole
           Apartment
           of
           Rooms
           ,
           all
           furnisht
           with
           Antiquities
           ,
           and
           
           Rarities
           .
           There
           are
           some
           old
           Inscriptions
           ,
           made
           by
           two
           Towns
           in
           Africk
           ,
           to
           the
           honour
           of
           
             M.
             Crassus
          
           :
           There
           is
           a
           great
           Collection
           of
           Medals
           and
           Medaillons
           ,
           and
           of
           the
           
             Roman
             Weights
          
           ,
           with
           their
           Instruments
           for
           theit
           Sacrifices
           ;
           there
           are
           many
           Curiosities
           of
           Nature
           ,
           and
           a
           great
           Collection
           of
           Pictur●s
           ,
           of
           which
           many
           are
           of
           Veronese's
           Hand
           .
           There
           is
           a
           noble
           Garden
           in
           Verona
           ,
           that
           riseth
           up
           in
           Terrasses
           the
           whole
           height
           of
           a
           Hill
           ,
           in
           which
           thete
           are
           many
           ancient
           Inscriptions
           ,
           which
           belongs
           to
           
             Count
             Giusto
          
           .
           As
           we
           go
           from
           Verona
           to
           Vin●enza
           ,
           which
           is
           thirty
           miles
           ,
           we
           return
           to
           the
           Beauty
           of
           L●mbardy
           ;
           for
           there
           is
           all
           the
           way
           as
           it
           were
           a
           Succession
           of
           Gardens
           :
           the
           ground
           is
           better
           cultivated
           here
           ,
           than
           I
           saw
           it
           in
           any
           other
           place
           of
           Italy
           :
           But
           the
           Wine
           is
           not
           good
           ;
           for
           at
           the
           roots
           of
           all
           their
           Trees
           they
           plant
           a
           Vine
           ;
           which
           grows
           up
           winding
           about
           the
           Tree
           ,
           to
           which
           it
           joyns
           ;
           but
           the
           Soil
           is
           too
           rich
           to
           produce
           a
           rich
           wine
           ;
           for
           that
           requireth
           a
           dry
           ground
           .
           There
           is
           near
           the
           Lake
           of
           Guarda
           a
           very
           extraordinary
           Wine
           ,
           which
           they
           call
           
             Vino
             Santo
          
           ,
           which
           drinks
           like
           the
           best
           sort
           of
           Canary
           ,
           it
           is
           not
           made
           till
           Christmaes
           ,
           and
           from
           thence
           it
           carries
           the
           Name
           of
           
             Holy
             Wine
          
           ;
           and
           it
           is
           not
           to
           be
           drunk
           till
           Midsummer
           ;
           for
           it
           is
           so
           long
           before
           it
           is
           quite
           wrought
           cleat
           ;
           but
           I
           have
           not
           ma●ked
           down
           how
           long
           it
           may
           be
           kept
           :
           we
           had
           it
           there
           for
           a
           Groat
           an
           English
           quart
           ;
           I
           wondred
           that
           they
           did
           not
           trade
           with
           it
           .
           All
           the
           Cattel
           of
           Italy
           are
           gray
           or
           white
           ,
           and
           all
           their
           Hogs
           are
           black
           ,
           except
           in
           the
           Bologn●se
           ,
           and
           there
           they
           are
           red
           .
           I
           will
           not
           inquire
           into
           the
           reasons
           of
           these
           things
           :
           it
           is
           certain
           ,
           Hogs-Flesh
           in
           Italy
           is
           much
           better
           than
           it
           is
           in
           France
           and
           England
           ,
           whether
           the
           truffs
           on
           which
           they
           feed
           much
           in
           Winter
           ,
           occasion
           this
           or
           not
           ,
           I
           know
           not
           ;
           the
           Husks
           of
           the
           pressed
           G●apes
           is
           also
           a
           mighty
           nourishment
           to
           them
           ;
           but
           Cattel
           of
           that
           grayish
           colour
           ,
           are
           certainly
           weaker
           :
           The
           Carriage
           of
           Italy
           is
           generally
           performed
           by
           them
           ;
           and
           this
           is
           very
           hard
           work
           in
           Lombardy
           ,
           when
           it
           hath
           rained
           ever
           so
           little
           ;
           for
           the
           ground
           being
           quite
           level
           ,
           and
           there
           being
           no
           raised
           High-wayes
           or
           Cause-wayes
           ,
           the
           Carts
           go
           deep
           ,
           and
           are
           hardly
           drawn
           .
        
         
         
           Vin●enza
           hath
           still
           more
           of
           its
           ancient
           liberty
           reserved
           than
           any
           of
           thes●
           Towns
           ,
           as
           Padua
           hath
           less
           ;
           for
           it
           delivered
           it self
           to
           the
           Venetians
           ;
           whereas
           the
           other
           disputed
           long
           with
           it
           ,
           and
           broùght
           it
           often
           very
           low
           :
           one
           sees
           the
           marks
           of
           Liberty
           in
           Vincenza
           ,
           in
           the
           Riches
           of
           their
           Palaces
           and
           Churches
           ,
           of
           which
           many
           are
           newly
           built
           :
           they
           have
           a
           modern
           Theater
           ,
           made
           in
           imitation
           of
           the
           ancient
           
             Roman
             Theaters
             .
             C●unt
             Velarano's
          
           Gardens
           at
           the
           Port
           of
           Ver●n●
           ,
           is
           the
           finest
           thing
           of
           the
           Town
           ;
           there
           is
           in
           it
           a
           very
           noble
           Alley
           of
           Oranges
           and
           Citrons
           ,
           some
           as
           big
           as
           a
           Mans
           Body
           ,
           but
           those
           are
           covered
           all
           the
           Winter
           long
           ;
           for
           in
           this
           appears
           the
           sensible
           difference
           of
           Lombardy●rom
           ●rom
           those
           parts
           of
           Italy
           ;
           that
           lie
           to
           the
           South
           of
           the
           Apenins
           ,
           that
           here
           generally
           they
           keep
           their
           Oranges
           and
           Citrons
           in
           great
           Boxes
           ,
           as
           we
           do
           in
           England
           ,
           that
           so
           they
           may
           be
           lodged
           in
           Winter
           ,
           and
           defended
           from
           the
           Breeses
           ,
           that
           blow
           sometimes
           so
           sharp
           from
           the
           Alps
           ,
           that
           otherwise
           they
           would
           kill
           those
           delicate
           Plants
           :
           whereas
           in
           Tuscany
           they
           grow
           as
           other
           Trees
           in
           their
           Gardens
           ;
           and
           in
           the
           
             Kingdom
             o●
             Naple●
          
           ,
           they
           grow
           wild
           ,
           without
           any
           Care
           or
           Cultivation
           .
           We
           were
           at
           Vincenza
           upon
           a
           Holy
           day
           ,
           and
           there
           I
           saw
           a
           preparation
           for
           a
           Procession
           that
           was
           to
           be
           in
           the
           afternoon
           :
           I
           did
           not
           wonder
           at
           what
           a
           
             French
             Papist
          
           said
           to
           me
           ,
           that
           he
           could
           hardly
           bear
           the
           
             Religion
             of
             Italy
          
           ,
           the
           Idolatry
           in
           it
           was
           so
           gross
           .
           The
           Statue
           of
           the
           Virgi●
           was
           of
           Wood
           ,
           so
           finely
           painted
           ,
           that
           I
           thought
           the
           head
           was
           Wax
           ;
           it
           was
           richly
           clad
           ,
           and
           had
           a
           Crown
           on
           its
           Head
           ,
           and
           was
           set
           full
           of
           Flowers
           :
           how
           they
           did
           when
           it
           was
           carried
           about
           ,
           I
           do
           not
           know
           ;
           but
           in
           the
           morning
           all
           people
           ran
           to
           it
           ,
           and
           said
           their
           prayers
           to
           it
           ,
           and
           Kissed
           the
           Ground
           be●ore
           it
           ,
           with
           all
           the
           appearances
           of
           Devotion
           .
        
         
           From
           Vincenza
           it
           is
           eighteen
           m●les
           to
           Padua
           ,
           all
           like
           a
           Garden
           :
           here
           one
           sees
           the
           decays
           of
           a
           vast
           City
           ;
           which
           was
           once
           one
           of
           the
           biggest
           of
           all
           Italy
           ;
           the
           compass
           is
           the
           same
           that
           is
           was
           ,
           but
           there
           is
           much
           uninhabited
           ground
           in
           it
           ,
           and
           Houses
           there
           go
           almost
           for
           nothing
           ;
           
           the
           Air
           is
           extream
           good
           ,
           and
           there
           is
           so
           great
           a
           plenty
           of
           all
           things
           ,
           except
           Money
           ,
           that
           a
           little
           Money
           goes
           a
           great
           way
           .
           The
           Vniversity
           here
           ,
           tho
           so
           much
           surported
           by
           the
           Venetians
           ,
           that
           they
           pay
           fifty
           Pro●essors
           ▪
           yet
           sinks
           extreamly
           :
           there
           are
           no
           men
           of
           any
           great
           Fame
           now
           i●
           it
           :
           and
           the
           quarrels
           among
           the
           Students
           have
           driven
           away
           most
           of
           the
           Strangers
           that
           used
           to
           come
           and
           study
           here
           ;
           for
           it
           is
           not
           safe
           to
           stir
           abroad
           here
           after
           Sun
           set
           :
           The
           number
           of
           the
           Palaces
           here
           is
           incredible
           ,
           and
           tho
           the
           Nobility
           of
           Padua
           is
           almost
           quite
           ruined
           ,
           yet
           the
           Beauty
           of
           their
           ancient
           Palaces
           shews
           what
           they
           once
           were
           .
           The
           Ve●etians
           have
           been
           willing
           to
           let
           the
           ancient
           Quarrels
           that
           were
           in
           all
           those
           conquered
           Cities
           continue
           still
           among
           them
           ;
           for
           while
           one
           kills
           another
           ,
           and
           the
           Children
           of
           the
           other
           take
           their
           Revenges
           afterwards
           ,
           both
           comes
           under
           the
           Bando
           by
           this
           means
           ,
           and
           the
           Confisca●ion
           goes
           to
           the
           Senate
           .
           At
           some
           times
           of
           Grace
           ,
           when
           the
           Senate
           wants
           Money
           ,
           and
           offers
           a
           pardon
           to
           all
           that
           will
           compound
           for
           it
           ,
           the
           numbers
           of
           the
           guilty
           persons
           are
           incredible
           .
           In
           Vincenza
           ,
           and
           the
           Country
           that
           belongs
           to
           it
           ,
           I
           was
           assured
           by
           
             Monsieur
             Patin
          
           ,
           that
           learned
           Autiquary
           ,
           that
           hath
           been
           ●any
           years
           a
           Professor
           in
           Padua
           ,
           that
           there
           were
           five
           and
           thirty
           thousand
           pardoned
           at
           the
           last
           Grace
           ;
           this
           I
           could
           hardly
           believe
           ,
           but
           he
           bid
           me
           write
           it
           down
           upon
           his
           word
           .
           The
           Nobility
           of
           Padua
           ,
           and
           of
           ●he
           other
           Towns
           ,
           seem
           not
           to
           see
           what
           a
           profit
           their
           Quarrels
           bring
           to
           the
           Venetians
           ,
           and
           how
           they
           eat
           out
           their
           Families
           :
           for
           one
           Family
           in
           the
           same
           mans
           time
           ,
           who
           was
           alive
           while
           I
           was
           there
           ,
           was
           reduced
           from
           fourteen
           thousand
           Ducats
           Revenue
           ,
           to
           less
           than
           three
           thousand
           ,
           by
           its
           falling
           at
           several
           times
           under
           the
           Bando
           ▪
           But
           their
           Jealousies
           and
           their
           Revenges
           are
           pursued
           by
           them
           with
           so
           much
           vigour
           ,
           that
           when
           these
           are
           in
           their
           way
           ,
           all
           other
           things
           are
           forgot
           by
           them
           .
           There
           is
           here
           the
           remnant
           of
           the
           Amphitheater
           ,
           tho
           nothing
           but
           the
           outward
           Wall
           stands
           :
           There
           is
           here
           ,
           as
           well
           as
           in
           Milan
           ,
           an
           inward
           Town
           ,
           called
           the
           City
           ,
           and
           an
           outward
           ,
           without
           that
           ,
           called
           the
           Burgo
           ;
           but
           tho
           
           there
           is
           a
           Ditch
           about
           the
           City
           ,
           the
           great
           Ditch
           and
           Wall
           goeth
           about
           all
           ,
           and
           Padua
           is
           eight
           miles
           in
           compass
           ;
           it
           lies
           almost
           round
           :
           The
           publick
           Hall
           is
           the
           Noblest
           of
           Italy
           :
           The
           Dome
           is
           an
           ancient
           and
           mean
           Building
           :
           But
           the
           Church
           of
           
             S.
             Anthony
          
           ,
           especially
           the
           
             Holy
             Chappel
          
           in
           it
           ,
           where
           the
           Saint
           lies
           ,
           is
           one
           of
           the
           best
           pieces
           of
           modern
           Sculpture
           ;
           for
           round
           the
           Chappel
           ,
           the
           chief
           Miracles
           in
           the
           legend
           of
           that
           Saint
           are
           rep●esen●ed
           in
           
             Mezzo
             Rilievo
          
           ,
           in
           a
           very
           surprizing
           manner
           :
           The
           devotion
           that
           is
           paid
           to
           this
           Saint
           ,
           all
           Lombardy
           over
           ,
           is
           amazing
           :
           he
           is
           called
           by
           way
           of
           excellence
           
             il
             Santo
          
           ,
           and
           the
           Beggars
           generally
           ask
           Alms
           for
           his
           sake
           :
           But
           among
           the
           little
           Vows
           that
           hang
           without
           the
           Holy
           Chappel
           ,
           there
           is
           one
           that
           is
           the
           highe●t
           pitch
           of
           Blasphomy
           that
           can
           be
           imagined
           ,
           Exaud●t
           ,
           speaking
           of
           the
           Saint
           ,
           
             quos
             non
             au●
             it
             &
             ipse
             D●us
             ;
             he
             hears
             those
             whom
             God
             himself
             doth
             not
             hear
             .
             St.
             Iustina
          
           is
           a
           Church
           so
           well
           ordered
           within
           ,
           the
           Architecture
           is
           so
           beautiful
           ,
           it
           is
           so
           well
           inlightned
           ,
           and
           the
           Cupulo's
           are
           so
           advantageously
           placed
           ,
           that
           if
           the
           outside
           answered
           the
           inside
           ,
           it
           would
           be
           one
           of
           the
           best
           
             Churches
             of
             Italy
          
           ;
           but
           the
           Building
           is
           of
           Brick
           ,
           and
           it
           hath
           no
           Frontispiece
           ;
           there
           are
           many
           new
           Altars
           ,
           made
           as
           fine
           as
           they
           are
           Idolatrous
           ,
           all
           full
           of
           Statues
           of
           Marble
           .
           This
           Abby
           hath
           a
           hundred
           thousand
           Ducats
           of
           Revenue
           ,
           and
           so
           by
           its
           Wealth
           one
           may
           conclude
           that
           it
           belongs
           to
           the
           
             Benedictine
             Order
             .
             Cardinal
             Barberigo
          
           is
           Bish●p
           here
           ;
           he
           seems
           to
           set
           
             St.
             Carlo
          
           before
           him
           as
           his
           pattern
           ;
           he
           hath
           founded
           a
           Noble
           Seminary
           for
           the
           secular
           Priests
           ;
           he
           lives
           in
           a
           constant
           discipline
           himself
           ,
           and
           endeavours
           to
           reform
           hi●
           Clergy
           all
           he
           can
           ;
           but
           he
           is
           now
           in
           ill
           terms
           with
           his
           Canons
           ,
           who
           are
           all
           
             Noble
             Venetians
          
           ,
           and
           so
           allow
           themselves
           great
           liberties
           ,
           of
           which
           they
           will
           not
           be
           willingly
           abridged
           :
           he
           is
           charitable
           to
           a
           high
           degree
           ,
           an●
           is
           i●
           all
           respects
           a
           very
           extraordinary
           man.
           
        
         
           In
           the
           
             Venetian
             T●rritory
          
           their
           subjects
           live
           easie
           and
           happy
           ,
           if
           they
           could
           be
           so
           wise
           as
           to
           give
           over
           their
           Q●arrels
           ;
           but
           tho
           the
           Taxes
           a●e
           not
           high
           ,
           they
           oppress
           thei●
           Tenants
           so
           ●everely
           ▪
           that
           the
           Peasants
           live
           most
           miserably
           ,
           
           yet
           on
           all
           hands
           round
           about
           them
           ,
           the
           Oppressions
           being
           more
           intolerable
           ,
           they
           know
           not
           whither
           to
           go
           for
           ease
           ;
           whereas
           on
           the
           contrary
           ,
           the
           miseries
           under
           which
           their
           Neighbours
           groan
           ,
           chiefly
           those
           of
           the
           
             Ecclesiastical
             State
          
           ,
           send
           in
           an
           increase
           of
           people
           among
           them
           ,
           so
           that
           they
           are
           well
           stoekt
           with
           people
           ;
           but
           the
           Venetians
           are
           so
           jealous
           of
           their
           Subjects
           understanding
           Military
           matters
           ,
           which
           may
           dispose
           them
           to
           revolt
           ,
           that
           they
           never
           make
           any
           Levies
           among
           them
           for
           their
           Wars
           ;
           this
           jealousie
           is
           the
           true
           ground
           of
           that
           maxim
           ,
           tho
           another
           is
           pretended
           ,
           that
           is
           more
           plausible
           ,
           which
           is
           ,
           their
           Care
           of
           their
           own
           people
           ,
           whom
           they
           study
           to
           preserve
           ,
           and
           therefore
           they
           hire
           Strangers
           ,
           rather
           than
           expose
           their
           Subjects
           .
           It
           is
           certain
           ,
           a
           revolt
           here
           ,
           were
           no
           hard
           matter
           to
           effectuate
           ;
           for
           the
           Garrisons
           and
           F●rtifications
           are
           so
           slight
           ,
           that
           those
           great
           Towns
           could
           easily
           shake
           off
           their
           yoke
           ,
           if
           it
           were
           not
           for
           the
           Factions
           that
           still
           reign
           among
           them
           ,
           by
           which
           one
           party
           would
           chuse
           rather
           to
           expose
           the
           other
           to
           the
           rigor
           of
           the
           Inquisitors
           ,
           than
           concur
           with
           them
           in
           asserting
           their
           Liberty
           ;
           and
           the
           Inquisitors
           in
           such
           cases
           proceed
           so
           secretly
           ,
           and
           yet
           so
           effectually
           ,
           that
           none
           dares
           trust
           another
           with
           a
           Secret
           of
           such
           consequence
           ;
           and
           the
           oppressed
           Nobility
           of
           those
           States
           ,
           retain
           still
           so
           much
           of
           their
           old
           and
           unsubdued
           Insolence
           ,
           and
           treat
           such
           as
           are
           under
           them
           so
           cruelly
           ,
           that
           the
           Venetians
           are
           as
           secure
           in
           those
           Conquests
           ,
           as
           if
           they
           had
           many
           strong
           Cittadels
           ,
           and
           numerous
           Garrisons
           spread
           up
           and
           down
           among
           them
           .
           From
           Padua
           down
           to
           Venice
           ,
           all
           along
           the
           River
           Brent
           ,
           there
           are
           many
           Palaces
           of
           the
           Noble
           Venetians
           on
           both
           sides
           of
           the
           River
           ,
           built
           with
           so
           great
           a
           variety
           of
           Architecture
           ,
           that
           there
           is
           not
           one
           of
           them
           like
           another
           ;
           there
           is
           also
           the
           like
           diversity
           in
           the
           laying
           out
           of
           their
           Gardens
           ;
           and
           here
           they
           retire
           during
           the
           hot
           months
           ;
           and
           some
           allow
           themselves
           all
           the
           excesses
           of
           dissolute
           Liberty
           that
           can
           possibly
           be
           imagined
           .
           From
           
             Lizza
             Fucina
          
           ,
           which
           is
           at
           the
           mouth
           of
           the
           Brent
           ,
           we
           pass
           for
           five
           or
           six
           miles
           on
           the
           Lagunes
           ,
           or
           shallows
           ,
           to
           Venice
           ;
           these
           shallows
           sink
           of
           late
           so
           much
           ,
           that
           the
           preserving
           Venice
           still
           an
           
           Island
           ,
           is
           like
           to
           become
           as
           great
           a
           charge
           to
           the
           Venetian●
           ▪
           as
           the
           keeping
           out
           the
           Sea
           is
           to
           the
           Dutch
           ;
           for
           they
           use
           all
           possible
           industry
           to
           cleanse
           the
           Channels
           of
           their
           Lagune●
           ,
           and
           to
           keep
           them
           full
           of
           Water
           :
           and
           yet
           many
           think
           ,
           that
           the
           Water
           hath
           failed
           so
           much
           in
           this
           last
           age
           ,
           that
           if
           it
           continues
           to
           abate
           at
           the
           same
           rate
           ,
           within
           an
           age
           o●
           two
           more
           ,
           Venice
           may
           become
           a
           part
           of
           the
           
             Terra
             firm●
          
           It
           is
           certainly
           the
           most
           surprizing
           sight
           in
           the
           whole
           World
           ,
           to
           see
           so
           vast
           a
           City
           ,
           scituated
           thus
           in
           the
           Sea
           ,
           and
           such
           a
           number
           of
           Islands
           so
           united
           together
           by
           Bridges
           ,
           brought
           to
           such
           a
           regular
           figure
           ,
           the
           Pilotty
           supplying
           the
           want
           of
           earth
           to
           build
           on
           ,
           and
           all
           so
           nob●●
           built
           ,
           which
           is
           of
           all
           the
           things
           that
           one
           can
           see
           the
           mo●●
           amazing
           .
           And
           tho
           this
           Republick
           is
           much
           sunk
           from
           what
           is
           was
           ,
           both
           by
           the
           great
           Losses
           they
           have
           suffered
           in
           their
           Wars
           with
           the
           Turks
           ,
           and
           by
           the
           great
           decay
           of
           Trade
           ,
           yet
           there
           is
           an
           incredible
           Wealth
           ,
           and
           a
           va●●
           plenty
           of
           all
           things
           in
           this
           place
           .
           I
           will
           not
           offer
           to
           describe
           neither
           the
           Church
           nor
           the
           Palace
           of
           S.
           Mark
           ,
           which
           are
           too
           well
           known
           to
           need
           a
           long
           digression
           to
           be
           made
           for
           them
           ;
           the
           painting
           of
           the
           Walls
           ,
           and
           the
           roofs
           of
           the
           Halls
           ,
           and
           publick
           Rooms
           in
           the
           Palace
           ,
           are
           of
           vast
           value
           ;
           Here
           I
           saw
           that
           Story
           of
           
             Pope
             Alexander
          
           the
           III.
           treading
           on
           the
           neck
           of
           the
           Emperor
           
             Frederic●
             Barbarossa
          
           .
           The
           Nobleness
           of
           the
           Stair-●ases
           ,
           the
           Riches
           of
           the
           Halls
           ,
           and
           the
           Beauty
           of
           the
           whole
           Building
           ▪
           are
           much
           prejudiced
           by
           the
           Beastliness
           of
           those
           that
           wal●
           along
           ,
           and
           that
           leave
           their
           marks
           behind
           them
           ,
           as
           if
           this
           were
           rather
           a
           common
           House
           of
           Office
           ,
           than
           so
           Noble
           a
           Palace
           :
           And
           the
           great
           Hall
           ,
           where
           the
           whole
           body
           of
           the
           Nobility
           meet
           ,
           in
           the
           
             Great
             Council
          
           ,
           hath
           nothing
           but
           the
           roof
           and
           walls
           that
           answers
           to
           such
           a●
           Assembly
           ;
           For
           the
           Seat●
           are
           liker
           the
           benches
           of
           an
           Auditory
           of
           Schollars
           ,
           than
           of
           so
           glorious
           a
           Body
           .
           Whe●
           the
           two
           sides
           of
           this
           Palace
           are
           built
           as
           the
           third
           ,
           which
           is
           the
           most
           hid
           ,
           it
           will
           be
           one
           of
           the
           gloriousest
           Palace●
           that
           the
           World
           can
           shew
           .
           The
           two
           sides
           that
           are
           mo●●
           seen
           ▪
           the
           one
           facing
           the
           square
           of
           St.
           Mark
           ,
           and
           the
           
           other
           the
           great
           Canale
           ,
           are
           only
           of
           Brick
           ,
           the
           third
           being
           all
           of
           Marble
           ,
           but
           the
           War
           of
           Candy
           put
           a
           stop
           to
           the
           Building
           .
           
             St.
             Mark
             's
             Church
          
           hath
           nothing
           to
           recommend
           it
           ,
           but
           its
           great
           Antiquity
           ,
           and
           the
           vast
           Riches
           of
           the
           Building
           ,
           it
           is
           dark
           and
           low
           ;
           but
           the
           pavement
           is
           so
           rich
           a
           Mosaick
           ,
           and
           the
           whole
           roof
           is
           also
           Mosai●k
           ,
           the
           outside
           and
           inside
           are
           of
           such
           excellent
           Marble
           ,
           the
           Frontispice
           is
           adorned
           with
           so
           many
           Pillars
           of
           Porphiry
           and
           Iasper
           .
           and
           above
           all
           with
           the
           four
           Horses
           of
           Corinthian
           Brass
           ,
           that
           Tiridates
           brought
           to
           Tiberius
           ,
           which
           were
           carried
           afterwards
           to
           Constantinople
           ,
           and
           were
           brought
           from
           thence
           to
           Venice
           ,
           and
           in
           which
           the
           gilding
           is
           still
           very
           bright
           ,
           that
           when
           all
           this
           is
           considered
           ,
           one
           doth
           no
           where
           see
           so
           much
           cost
           brought
           together
           .
           I
           did
           not
           see
           the
           Gospel
           of
           
             St.
             Mark
          
           ,
           which
           is
           one
           of
           the
           valuablest
           things
           of
           the
           Treasure
           ;
           but
           they
           do
           not
           now
           open
           it
           to
           Strangers
           ;
           yet
           
             Doctor
             Grand●
          
           ,
           a
           famous
           Physitian
           there
           ,
           told
           me
           ▪
           that
           by
           a
           particular
           order
           ,
           he
           was
           suffered
           to
           open
           it
           ;
           he
           told
           me
           ▪
           it
           was
           all
           writ
           in
           
             Capital
             Letters
          
           ,
           but
           the
           Characters
           were
           so
           worn
           out
           ,
           that
           tho
           he
           could
           dis●ern
           the
           Ends
           of
           some
           Letters
           ,
           he
           could
           not
           see
           enough
           to
           help
           him
           to
           distinguish
           them
           ,
           or
           to
           know
           wheter
           the
           M.S.
           was
           in
           Greek
           or
           Latin.
           I
           will
           not
           say
           one
           Word
           of
           the
           Arfenal
           ;
           for
           as
           I
           saw
           it
           in
           its
           worst
           State
           ,
           the
           War
           that
           is
           now
           on
           foot
           having
           disfurnished
           a
           great
           deal
           of
           it
           ,
           so
           it
           hath
           been
           o●ten
           described
           ,
           and
           it
           is
           known
           to
           be
           the
           Noblest
           Magazine
           ▪
           the
           best
           ordered
           ,
           and
           of
           the
           greatest
           variety
           ,
           that
           is
           in
           the
           whole
           World
           :
           its
           true
           ,
           it
           is
           all
           that
           this
           Stat●
           hath
           ;
           so
           that
           if
           the
           Magazines
           of
           other
           Princes
           ,
           which
           lie
           spread
           up
           and
           down
           in
           the
           different
           Places
           of
           their
           Dominions
           ,
           were
           gathered
           together
           ,
           they
           would
           make
           a
           much
           greater
           shew
           .
           The
           Noblest
           Convent
           of
           Venice
           is
           that
           of
           the
           Dominicans
           ,
           called
           
             Saint
             Iohn
          
           and
           
             Saint
             Paul
          
           ;
           the
           Church
           and
           Chappels
           are
           vastly
           rich
           :
           there
           is
           one
           of
           
             Saint
             Luke's
             Madona
             's
          
           here
           ,
           as
           they
           pretend
           ;
           the
           Dormitory
           is
           very
           great
           ;
           the
           Room
           for
           the
           Library
           ,
           and
           every
           thing
           in
           it
           ,
           except
           
           the
           Books
           ,
           is
           extream
           fine
           .
           But
           
             Saint
             George's
          
           ,
           which
           is
           a
           Convent
           of
           the
           Benedictines
           ;
           in
           an
           Isle
           intirely
           possessed
           by
           them
           ,
           over
           against
           
             Saint
             Marks
          
           square
           ,
           is
           much
           the
           richest
           :
           the
           Church
           is
           well
           contrived
           ,
           and
           well
           adorned
           :
           and
           not
           only
           the
           whole
           Building
           is
           very
           Magnificent
           ;
           but
           which
           is
           more
           extraordinary
           at
           Venice
           ,
           they
           have
           a
           large
           Garden
           ,
           and
           noble
           walks
           in
           it
           .
           The
           Redemptore
           and
           the
           Salute
           ,
           are
           two
           Noble
           Churches
           ,
           that
           are
           the
           effects
           of
           Vows
           that
           the
           Senate
           made
           whe●
           they
           were
           afflicted
           with
           the
           Plague
           ,
           the
           latter
           is
           much
           the
           finer
           ,
           it
           is
           to
           the
           Virgin
           ;
           and
           the
           other
           is
           only
           to
           our
           Saviour
           :
           so
           naturally
           doth
           the
           Devotion
           of
           that
           Churc●
           carry
           it
           higher
           for
           the
           Mother
           than
           the
           Son.
           It
           is
           true
           ,
           the
           Salute
           is
           later
           than
           the
           other
           ,
           so
           no
           wonder
           if
           the
           Architecture
           and
           the
           riches
           exceed
           that
           which
           is
           more
           ancient
           .
           The
           School
           of
           
             Saint
             Roch
          
           ,
           and
           the
           Chappel
           ,
           and
           Hall
           ,
           are
           full
           of
           great
           pieces
           of
           Tintore●●
           :
           a
           Cena
           ,
           of
           
             Paulo
             Veronese
          
           in
           the
           Refectory
           of
           
             St.
             George
          
           ,
           and
           the
           Picture
           of
           
             St.
             Seter
          
           the
           Martyr
           of
           Titians
           ,
           are
           the
           most
           celebrated
           pieces
           of
           P●saro's
           Tomb
           in
           the
           Friary
           is
           the
           Noblest
           I
           ever
           saw
           .
           B●●
           if
           the
           riches
           of
           all
           the
           Convents
           ,
           and
           the
           Parish
           Churches
           of
           Venice
           amased
           me
           ,
           the
           Fronts
           especially
           ,
           many
           of
           which
           are
           of
           white
           Marble
           ,
           beautified
           with
           several
           Statues
           ;
           the
           meanness
           of
           the
           Library
           of
           
             S.
             Mar●
          
           did
           no
           less
           surprize
           me
           .
           There
           are
           in
           the
           Antichamber
           to
           it
           ,
           Statues
           of
           vast
           value
           ,
           and
           the
           whole
           Roof
           of
           the
           Library
           is
           composed
           of
           several
           pieces
           of
           the
           greate●●
           Masters
           put
           in
           several
           Frames
           :
           but
           the
           Library
           hath
           nothing
           answerable
           to
           the
           Riches
           of
           the
           Case
           ;
           for
           the
           
             Greek
             Manuscrips
          
           are
           all
           modern
           ;
           I
           turned
           over
           a
           great
           many
           ,
           and
           saw
           none
           above
           five
           hundred
           years
           old
           I
           was
           indeed
           told
           ,
           that
           the
           last
           Library-keeper
           was
           acc●sed
           for
           having
           conveyed
           away
           many
           of
           their
           Manuscrips
           ,
           and
           that
           four
           years
           ago
           being
           clapt
           in
           prison
           for
           this
           by
           the
           Inquisitors
           ;
           he
           ,
           to
           prevent
           further
           Severities
           ,
           poisoned
           himself
           .
           I
           went
           to
           the
           Convent
           of
           the
           Servi
           ;
           b●t
           I
           found
           
             Father
             Paul
          
           was
           not
           in
           such
           consideration
           there
           ,
           
           as
           he
           is
           elsewhere
           .
           I
           asked
           for
           his
           Tomb
           ,
           but
           they
           made
           no
           account
           of
           him
           ,
           and
           seemed
           not
           to
           know
           where
           it
           was
           ;
           it
           is
           true
           ,
           the
           person
           to
           whom
           I
           was
           recommended
           ,
           was
           not
           in
           Venice
           ,
           so
           perhaps
           they
           refined
           too
           much
           in
           this
           matter
           :
           I
           had
           great
           Discourse
           with
           some
           at
           Venice
           concerning
           the
           Memorials
           out
           of
           which
           
             F.
             Paul
          
           drew
           his
           History
           ,
           which
           are
           no
           doubt
           all
           preserved
           with
           great
           care
           in
           their
           Archives
           ;
           and
           since
           the
           Transactions
           of
           the
           
             Council
             of
             Trent
          
           ,
           as
           they
           are
           of
           great
           Importance
           ,
           so
           they
           are
           become
           now
           much
           controverted
           ,
           by
           the
           different
           Relations
           that
           
             F.
             Paul
          
           ,
           and
           
             Cardinal
             Pallavicini
          
           have
           given
           the
           World
           of
           that
           matter
           ;
           the
           only
           way
           to
           put
           an
           end
           to
           all
           Disputes
           in
           matter
           of
           Fact
           ,
           is
           to
           print
           the
           Ori●inals
           themselves
           .
           A
           Person
           of
           great
           Credit
           at
           Venice
           ,
           promised
           to
           me
           ,
           to
           do
           his
           utmost
           ,
           to
           get
           that
           Proposition
           set
           on
           foot
           ,
           tho
           the
           great
           Exactness
           that
           the
           Government
           there
           hath
           alwayes
           affected
           ,
           as
           to
           the
           matter
           of
           their
           Archives
           ,
           is
           held
           so
           sacred
           ,
           that
           this
           made
           him
           apprehend
           ,
           they
           would
           not
           give
           way
           to
           any
           such
           search
           .
           The
           Affinity
           of
           the
           matter
           brings
           into
           my
           mind
           a
           long
           Conversation
           that
           I
           had
           with
           a
           person
           of
           great
           Eminence
           at
           Venice
           ,
           that
           as
           he
           was
           long
           at
           Constantinople
           ,
           so
           he
           was
           learned
           far
           beyond
           what
           is
           to
           be
           met
           with
           in
           Italy
           ;
           he
           told
           me
           ,
           he
           was
           at
           Constantinople
           when
           the
           Inquiry
           into
           the
           Doctrine
           of
           the
           
             Greek
             Church
          
           was
           set
           on
           foot
           ,
           occasioned
           by
           the
           famous
           Dispute
           between
           
             Mr.
             Arnaud
          
           and
           
             Mr.
             Claude
          
           he
           being
           a
           zealous
           
             Roman
             Catholick
          
           ,
           was
           dealt
           with
           to
           assist
           in
           that
           business
           ;
           but
           being
           a
           Man
           of
           great
           Honour
           and
           Sincerity
           ,
           he
           excused
           himself
           ,
           and
           said
           ,
           he
           could
           not
           meddle
           in
           it
           :
           He
           hath
           a
           very
           low
           and
           bad
           Opinion
           of
           the
           Greeks
           ;
           and
           he
           told
           me
           ,
           
             That
             none
             of
             their
          
           Priests
           
             were
             more
             inveterate
             Enemies
             to
             the
          
           Church
           of
           Rome
           
             than
             those
             that
             were
             bred
             up
             at
          
           Rome
           ;
           for
           they
           ,
           to
           free
           themselves
           of
           the
           prejudices
           that
           their
           Countreymen
           are
           apt
           to
           conceive
           against
           them
           ,
           because
           of
           their
           Education
           among
           the
           Latines
           ,
           do
           affect
           to
           shew
           an
           Opposition
           to
           the
           
             Latin
             Church
          
           beyond
           any
           other
           Greeks
           .
           He
           told
           me
           ,
           that
           he
           knew
           the
           Ignorance
           and
           Corruption
           of
           the
           Greeks
           was
           
           such
           ,
           that
           as
           they
           did
           not
           know
           the
           Doctrines
           of
           their
           own
           Church
           ,
           so
           a
           very
           little
           Money
           ,
           or
           the
           hope
           of
           Protection
           from
           any
           of
           the
           Ambass●dors
           that
           came
           from
           the
           West
           ,
           would
           prevail
           with
           them
           to
           sign
           any
           thing
           that
           could
           be
           desired
           of
           them
           .
           He
           added
           one
           thing
           ,
           that
           tho
           he
           firmly
           believed
           Transu●stantiation
           himself
           ,
           he
           did
           not
           think
           they
           believed
           it
           ,
           let
           them
           say
           what
           they
           pleased
           themselves
           ;
           he
           took
           his
           measures
           of
           the
           Doctrine
           of
           their
           Church
           ,
           rather
           from
           what
           they
           did
           ,
           than
           from
           what
           they
           said
           :
           For
           their
           Rites
           not
           being
           changed
           now
           for
           a
           great
           many
           ages
           ,
           were
           the
           true
           Indications
           of
           the
           Doctrines
           received
           among
           them
           ;
           whereas
           they
           were
           both
           ignorant
           of
           the
           Tradition
           of
           their
           Doctrine
           ,
           and
           very
           apt
           to
           prevericate
           when
           they
           saw
           Advantages
           or
           Protection
           set
           before
           them
           ;
           therefore
           he
           concluded
           ,
           that
           since
           they
           did
           not
           adore
           the
           Sacrament
           after
           the
           Consecration
           ,
           that
           was
           an
           evident
           sign
           that
           they
           did
           not
           believe
           the
           
             Corporal
             Presence
          
           ;
           and
           was
           of
           a
           force
           well
           able
           to
           balance
           all
           their
           Subscriptions
           :
           He
           told
           me
           ,
           he
           was
           often
           scandalized
           to
           see
           them
           open
           the
           Bag
           ,
           in
           which
           the
           Sacrament
           was
           preserved
           ,
           and
           shew
           it
           with
           no
           sort
           of
           respect
           ,
           no
           more
           than
           when
           they
           shewed
           any
           Manuscript
           ;
           and
           he
           looked
           on
           Adoration
           as
           such
           a
           necessary
           Consequent
           of
           Transu●stantiation
           ,
           that
           he
           could
           not
           imagine
           that
           the
           latter
           was
           received
           in
           a
           Church
           that
           did
           not
           practise
           the
           former
           .
           To
           this
           I
           will
           add
           what
           an
           Eminent
           Catholick
           at
           Paris
           told
           me
           ;
           he
           said
           ,
           the
           Originals
           of
           those
           Attestations
           ,
           were
           in
           too
           exact
           and
           too
           correct
           a
           stile
           ,
           to
           have
           been
           formed
           in
           Greece
           ;
           he
           assured
           me
           ,
           they
           were
           penned
           at
           Paris
           ,
           by
           one
           that
           was
           a
           Master
           of
           the
           Purity
           of
           the
           Greek
           Tongue
           ,
           I
           do
           not
           name
           these
           Persons
           ,
           because
           they
           are
           yet
           alive
           ,
           and
           this
           might
           be
           a
           prejudice
           to
           them
           .
           One
           of
           the
           chief
           Ornaments
           of
           Ve●ice
           was
           the
           famous
           young
           W●man
           that
           spake
           five
           Tongues
           well
           ,
           of
           which
           the
           Latin
           and
           Greek
           we●e
           two
           ;
           she
           passed
           Doctor
           of
           Physick
           at
           Padua
           ,
           according
           to
           the
           ordinary
           Forms
           ;
           but
           which
           was
           beyond
           all
           ,
           she
           was
           a
           person
           of
           such
           extraordinary
           Vertue
           and
           Piety
           ,
           that
           she
           is
           spoken
           of
           as
           a
           Saint
           ;
           she
           died
           some
           Months
           
           before
           I
           came
           to
           Venice
           :
           she
           was
           of
           the
           noble
           Family
           of
           the
           Cornaro's
           ,
           tho
           not
           of
           the
           three
           chief
           Branches
           ,
           which
           are
           
             Saint
             Maurice
          
           ,
           Saint
           Paul
           ,
           and
           Calle
           ,
           who
           are
           descended
           from
           the
           three
           Brothers
           of
           the
           renowned
           Queen
           of
           Cyprus
           ,
           but
           the
           distinction
           of
           her
           Family
           was
           Piscopia
           .
           Her
           extraordinary
           merit
           made
           all
           people
           unwilling
           to
           remember
           the
           blemish
           of
           her
           descent
           of
           the
           one
           side
           ;
           for
           tho
           the
           Cornaro's
           re●kon
           themselves
           a
           size
           of
           Nobility
           beyond
           all
           the
           other
           Families
           of
           V●nice
           ,
           yet
           her
           Father
           having
           entertained
           a
           Goudalier's
           Daughter
           so
           long
           ,
           that
           he
           had
           some
           Children
           by
           her
           ,
           at
           last
           for
           their
           sakes
           married
           the
           Mother
           ,
           and
           payed
           a
           considerable
           Fine
           to
           save
           the
           forfeiture
           of
           Nobility
           ,
           which
           his
           Children
           must
           have
           undergone
           ,
           by
           reason
           of
           the
           meanness
           of
           the
           Mothers
           birth
           .
           The
           Cornaro's
           carry
           it
           so
           high
           ,
           that
           many
           of
           the
           Daughters
           of
           that
           Family
           have
           made
           themselves
           Nuns
           ,
           because
           they
           thought
           their
           own
           Name
           was
           so
           Noble
           ,
           that
           they
           could
           not
           induce
           themselves
           to
           change
           it
           with
           any
           other
           ;
           and
           when
           lately
           one
           of
           that
           Family
           married
           the
           Heir
           of
           the
           Sagredro
           ,
           which
           is
           also
           one
           of
           the
           antientest
           Families
           ,
           that
           was
           extream
           rich
           ,
           and
           she
           had
           scarce
           any
           portion
           at
           all
           ,
           (
           for
           the
           C●rnaro's
           are
           now
           very
           low
           )
           some
           of
           their
           Friends
           came
           to
           wish
           them
           joy
           of
           so
           advantagious
           a
           Match
           ;
           but
           they
           very
           coldly
           rejected
           the
           Complement
           ,
           and
           bid
           the
           others
           go
           and
           wish
           the
           Sagredo's
           joy
           ,
           since
           they
           thought
           the
           Advantage
           was
           wholly
           of
           their
           side
           .
        
         
           There
           are
           of
           the
           truly
           Ancient
           Noble
           Families
           of
           Veni●e
           ,
           four
           and
           twenty
           yet
           remaining
           ,
           and
           even
           among
           these
           ,
           there
           are
           twelve
           that
           are
           thought
           superior
           to
           the
           rest
           in
           rank
           :
           since
           the
           first
           Formation
           of
           their
           Senate
           ,
           they
           have
           created
           many
           Senators
           .
           In
           their
           Wars
           with
           Genua
           they
           conferred
           that
           honour
           on
           thirty
           Families
           :
           several
           of
           their
           Generals
           have
           had
           that
           honour
           given
           them
           as
           a
           reward
           of
           their
           service
           :
           They
           have
           also
           offered
           this
           honour
           to
           some
           Royal
           Families
           ;
           for
           both
           the
           Pamilies
           of
           Valo●s
           and
           Bourbon
           ,
           were
           Nobles
           of
           Venice
           ;
           and
           Henry
           the
           III.
           when
           he
           came
           through
           Venice
           from
           Poland
           ,
           to
           take
           possession
           of
           the
           Crown
           of
           France
           ,
           went
           and
           sate
           among
           
           them
           ,
           and
           drew
           his
           Ballot
           as
           a
           Noble
           Venetian
           :
           many
           Popes
           have
           procured
           this
           honour
           for
           their
           Nephews
           .
           Only
           the
           Barberines
           would
           have
           the
           Venetians
           offer
           it
           to
           them
           without
           their
           asking
           it
           ,
           and
           the
           Veneti●ns
           would
           not
           give
           it
           without
           the
           others
           asked
           it
           ,
           and
           so
           it
           stuck
           at
           this
           .
           But
           during
           the
           War
           of
           Candy
           ,
           Cardinal
           
             Fran●is
             Barberi●e
          
           gave
           twelve
           thousand
           Crowns
           a
           year
           towards
           the
           War
           ,
           and
           the
           temper
           found
           for
           making
           them
           
             Noble
             Veuetians
          
           was
           ,
           that
           the
           
             Queen
             Mother
          
           of
           France
           moved
           the
           Senate
           to
           grant
           it
           .
           In
           all
           ●he
           Creations
           of
           Se●ators
           before
           the
           last
           War
           of
           Candy
           ,
           they
           were
           free
           ;
           and
           the
           Considerations
           were
           ,
           either
           great
           Services
           ,
           or
           the
           great
           Dignity
           of
           those
           on
           whom
           they
           bestowed
           this
           Honour
           .
           Those
           new
           Families
           are
           divided
           into
           those
           that
           are
           called
           
             Ducal
             Families
          
           ;
           and
           those
           that
           were
           called
           simply
           
             New
             Families
          
           ;
           the
           Reason
           of
           the
           former
           designation
           is
           not
           rightly
           understood
           ;
           but
           one
           that
           knew
           all
           that
           related
           to
           that
           Constitution
           particularly
           well
           ,
           gave
           me
           a
           good
           account
           of
           it
           .
           That
           which
           naturally
           occurs
           as
           the
           Reason
           of
           it
           ,
           is
           ,
           that
           all
           those
           Families
           ,
           that
           are
           called
           Du●al
           ,
           have
           had
           the
           Dukedom
           in
           their
           House
           :
           But
           as
           all
           the
           
             old
             Families
          
           have
           had
           the
           same
           Honour
           ,
           though
           they
           carry
           not
           that
           Title
           ,
           so
           some
           of
           the
           
             n●w
             Families
          
           have
           also
           had
           it
           ,
           that
           yet
           are
           not
           called
           Ducal
           .
           Others
           say
           ,
           that
           those
           Families
           that
           have
           had
           branches
           ,
           who
           have
           been
           made
           Dukes
           ,
           without
           their
           being
           first
           
             Procurators
             of
             S.
             Mark
          
           ,
           or
           that
           have
           been
           chosen
           to
           that
           Honour
           ,
           without
           their
           pretending
           to
           it
           ,
           are
           called
           Ducal
           :
           But
           the
           true
           Account
           of
           this
           is
           ,
           that
           from
           the
           year
           1450.
           to
           the
           year
           1620.
           for
           a
           hundred
           and
           seventy
           years
           ,
           there
           was
           a
           combination
           made
           among
           those
           new
           Families
           to
           preserve
           the
           Dukedom
           still
           among
           them
           :
           For
           the
           old
           Families
           carrying
           it
           high
           ,
           and
           excluding
           the
           new
           Families
           from
           the
           chief
           Honours
           ,
           nineteen
           of
           the
           new
           Families
           entred
           into
           mutual
           Ingagements
           to
           exclude
           the
           ancient
           Nobility
           :
           It
           is
           true
           ,
           they
           made
           the
           Dukedom
           sometimes
           fall
           on
           some
           of
           the
           new
           Families
           that
           were
           not
           of
           this
           Association
           ;
           but
           this
           was
           more
           indifferent
           to
           them
           ,
           as
           long
           as
           the
           ancient
           Famillies
           were
           shut
           out
           ,
           and
           that
           
           it
           appeared
           ,
           that
           they
           bore
           the
           chief
           sway
           in
           the
           Election
           ,
           This
           Combination
           was
           a
           thing
           known
           to
           the
           very
           people
           ,
           tho
           the
           Inquisitors
           did
           all
           they
           could
           to
           break
           it
           ,
           or
           at
           least
           to
           hide
           it
           ,
           so
           that
           I
           never
           met
           with
           it
           in
           any
           of
           their
           Authors
           .
           But
           this
           failed
           in
           the
           year
           1620.
           when
           Memmio
           was
           chosen
           D●ke
           ,
           who
           was
           descended
           of
           one
           of
           the
           ancient
           Nobility
           ,
           which
           was
           so
           great
           a
           mortification
           to
           the
           
             Case
             Ducale
          
           ,
           that
           one
           of
           them
           (
           Veniero
           )
           hanged
           himself
           ,
           by
           the
           Rage
           to
           which
           that
           Disgrace
           drove
           him
           ,
           yet
           his
           man
           came
           into
           the
           room
           in
           time
           ,
           before
           he
           was
           dead
           ,
           and
           cut
           him
           down
           ,
           and
           he
           lived
           long
           after
           that
           in
           a
           better
           mind
           .
           Since
           that
           time
           ,
           one
           of
           the
           Bembo's
           ,
           two
           of
           the
           Cornaro's
           ,
           and
           one
           of
           the
           Co●tarini's
           ,
           and
           the
           present
           Prince
           ,
           of
           the
           Iust●niani
           ,
           the
           first
           of
           that
           family
           that
           hath
           had
           that
           honour
           ,
           have
           been
           Dukes
           ,
           who
           are
           all
           of
           the
           ancient
           Families
           :
           So
           that
           this
           Faction
           is
           now
           so
           intirely
           buried
           ,
           that
           it
           is
           not
           generally
           known
           (
           even
           in
           Veni●e
           it self
           )
           that
           it
           was
           ever
           amongst
           them
           ;
           and
           thus
           time
           ,
           and
           other
           Ac●id●nts
           bring
           about
           happy
           Events
           ,
           which
           no
           Care
           n●r
           Industry
           could
           produce
           :
           For
           that
           which
           all
           the
           Endeavours
           of
           the
           Inquisit●rs
           could
           not
           compass
           ,
           was
           brought
           about
           of
           it self
           .
           It
           is
           true
           ,
           the
           Factions
           in
           Veni●e
           ,
           tho
           violent
           enough
           in
           the
           persons
           of
           those
           who
           manage
           them
           ,
           yet
           are
           not
           derived
           by
           them
           ,
           as
           an
           Inheritance
           to
           their
           Posterity
           ,
           as
           it
           was
           among
           the
           Florentines
           ;
           who
           tho
           they
           value
           themselves
           as
           a
           size
           of
           men
           much
           above
           the
           Venetians
           ,
           whom
           they
           despise
           as
           a
           phlegmatick
           and
           dull
           race
           of
           people
           ,
           yet
           shewed
           how
           little
           they
           understood
           with
           all
           their
           vivacity
           ,
           to
           conduct
           their
           State
           ;
           since
           by
           their
           domestick
           Heats
           they
           lost
           their
           Liberty
           ,
           which
           the
           Venetians
           have
           had
           the
           wisdom
           still
           to
           preserve
           .
           This
           Faction
           of
           the
           
             Case
             Ducale
          
           was
           perhaps
           willing
           to
           let
           the
           matter
           fall
           ;
           for
           they
           lost
           more
           than
           they
           got
           by
           it
           ;
           for
           the
           Ancient
           Families
           in
           revenge
           set
           themselves
           against
           them
           ,
           and
           excluded
           them
           from
           all
           the
           other
           advantagious
           Imployments
           of
           the
           State.
           For
           the
           others
           being
           only
           united
           in
           that
           single
           point
           relating
           to
           the
           Dukedom
           ,
           the
           Ancient
           Families
           let
           them
           carry
           it
           ;
           but
           in
           all
           
           other
           Competitions
           they
           set
           up
           alwayes
           such
           Competitors
           against
           the
           Pretenders
           that
           were
           of
           the
           
             Ducal
             Families
          
           ,
           that
           were
           much
           more
           esteemed
           than
           these
           were
           ,
           so
           that
           they
           shut
           ●hem
           out
           of
           all
           the
           best
           Offices
           of
           the
           Republi●k
           .
           Such
           a
           Faction
           as
           this
           was
           ,
           if
           it
           had
           been
           still
           kept
           up
           ,
           might
           in
           Conclusion
           have
           proved
           fatal
           to
           their
           Liberty
           .
           It
           is
           indeed
           a
           Wonder
           to
           see
           ,
           the
           Dignity
           of
           the
           Duke
           so
           much
           courted
           ;
           for
           he
           is
           only
           a
           Prisoner
           of
           State
           ,
           tyed
           up
           to
           such
           Rules
           ,
           so
           severely
           restrained
           and
           shut
           up
           as
           it
           were
           in
           an
           Apartment
           of
           the
           
             Palace
             of
             S.
             Mark
          
           ,
           that
           it
           is
           not
           strange
           to
           see
           some
           of
           the
           greatest
           Families
           ,
           in
           particular
           the
           Cornaro's
           decline
           it
           .
           All
           the
           Family
           ,
           if
           ever
           so
           numerous
           ,
           must
           retire
           out
           of
           the
           Senate
           ,
           when
           a
           Du●e
           is
           chosen
           out
           of
           it
           ,
           only
           one
           that
           is
           next
           to
           him
           of
           kin
           .
           sits
           still
           ,
           but
           without
           a
           Vote
           :
           And
           the
           only
           Real
           Priviledge
           that
           the
           Duke
           hath
           ,
           is
           ,
           that
           he
           can
           of
           himself
           ,
           without
           communicating
           with
           the
           Savii
           ,
           propose
           matters
           ,
           either
           to
           the
           
             Council
             of
             Ten
          
           ,
           to
           the
           S●nate
           ,
           or
           to
           the
           
             Great
             Coun●il
          
           ;
           whereas
           all
           other
           propositions
           must
           be
           first
           offered
           to
           the
           Savii
           ,
           and
           examined
           by
           them
           ,
           who
           have
           a
           sort
           of
           Tribunitian
           Power
           to
           reject
           what
           they
           dislike
           ;
           and
           tho
           they
           cannot
           hinder
           the
           Duke
           to
           make
           a
           Proposition
           ,
           yet
           they
           can
           mortifie
           him
           when
           he
           hath
           made
           it
           ;
           they
           can
           hinder
           it
           to
           be
           voted
           ;
           and
           after
           it
           is
           voted
           ,
           they
           can
           suspend
           the
           execution
           of
           it
           till
           it
           is
           examined
           over
           again
           :
           And
           a
           Duke
           ,
           that
           is
           of
           an
           active
           Spirit
           ,
           must
           resolve
           to
           indure
           many
           of
           these
           A●flictions
           ;
           and
           it
           is
           certain
           ,
           that
           the
           Savii
           ,
           do
           sometimes
           affect
           to
           shew
           the
           Greatness
           of
           their
           Authority
           ,
           and
           exercise
           a
           sort
           of
           Tyranny
           in
           the
           rejecting
           of
           Propositions
           ,
           when
           thy
           intend
           to
           humble
           those
           that
           make
           them
           :
           yet
           the
           greatest
           part
           of
           the
           best
           Families
           court
           this
           Honour
           ●f
           Dukedom
           extreamly
           .
           When
           Sagredo
           was
           upon
           the
           point
           of
           being
           chosen
           Duke
           ,
           there
           was
           so
           violent
           an
           Out-cry
           against
           it
           over
           all
           Veni●e
           ,
           because
           of
           the
           Di●grare
           ,
           that
           they
           thought
           would
           come
           on
           the
           Republik
           ,
           if
           they
           had
           a
           Prince
           ,
           whose
           Nose
           had
           mi●carried
           in
           some
           unfortunate
           Disorders
           ;
           the
           Senate
           complyed
           so
           far
           with
           this
           Aversion
           ,
           
           that
           the
           people
           testified
           ,
           that
           tho
           the
           Inquisitors
           took
           care
           to
           hang
           or
           drown
           many
           of
           the
           chief
           of
           the
           Mutineers
           ,
           yet
           they
           let
           the
           design
           for
           Sagredo
           fall
           :
           Upon
           which
           he
           was
           so
           much
           disgusted
           ,
           that
           he
           retired
           to
           a
           house
           he
           had
           in
           the
           
             Terra
             firma
          
           ,
           and
           never
           appeared
           more
           at
           Venice
           :
           During
           which
           time
           of
           his
           Retirement
           ,
           he
           writ
           two
           Books
           ,
           the
           one
           
             Memorie
             Ottom●niche
          
           ,
           which
           is
           Printed
           ;
           and
           he
           is
           accounted
           the
           best
           of
           all
           their
           mordern
           Authors
           .
           The
           other
           was
           
             Memoires
             of
             the
             Government
             and
             History
             of
             Venice
             ,
          
           which
           hath
           never
           been
           Printed
           ;
           and
           some
           say
           ,
           it
           is
           too
           ●incere
           ,
           and
           too
           particular
           ,
           so
           that
           it
           is
           thought
           it
           will
           be
           reserved
           among
           their
           Archives
           .
           It
           hath
           been
           a
           sort
           of
           Maxim
           now
           for
           some
           time
           ,
           not
           to
           chuse
           a
           married
           man
           to
           be
           Duke
           ,
           for
           the
           Coronation
           of
           a
           Du●hes●
           goes
           high
           ,
           and
           hath
           cost
           above
           a
           hundred
           thousand
           D●●ats
           .
           Some
           of
           the
           ancient
           Families
           have
           affected
           the
           Title
           of
           Prince
           ,
           and
           have
           called
           their
           branches
           ,
           
             Princes
             of
             the
             Blood
          
           ;
           and
           tho
           the
           Cornaro's
           have
           done
           this
           more
           than
           any
           other
           ,
           yet
           o●hers
           upon
           the
           account
           of
           some
           Principalities
           ,
           that
           their
           Ancestors
           had
           in
           the
           Islands
           of
           the
           Archipelago
           ,
           have
           also
           affected
           those
           vain
           Titles
           :
           But
           the
           Inquisitors
           have
           long
           ago
           obliged
           them
           ,
           to
           lay
           aside
           all
           those
           high
           Titles
           ;
           and
           such
           of
           them
           as
           boast
           too
           much
           of
           their
           blood
           ,
           find
           the
           disl●ke
           which
           that
           brings
           on
           them
           very
           sensibly
           ;
           for
           whensoever
           they
           pretend
           to
           any
           great
           Imployments
           ,
           they
           find
           themselves
           alwayes
           ex●luded
           .
           When
           an
           Election
           of
           Ambassadors
           was
           proposed
           ,
           or
           of
           any
           of
           the
           chief
           O●●ices
           ,
           it
           was
           wont
           to
           be
           made
           in
           those
           terms
           ,
           that
           the
           Coun●il
           must
           chuse
           one
           of
           its
           
             Principal
             Members
          
           for
           such
           an
           imployment
           :
           But
           because
           this
           lookt
           like
           a
           term
           of
           Distinction
           among
           the
           Nobility
           ,
           they
           changed
           it
           five
           and
           twenty
           years
           ago
           ;
           and
           instead
           of
           Principal
           ,
           they
           use
           now
           the
           term
           Honourable
           ,
           which
           comprehends
           the
           whole
           body
           of
           their
           Nobility
           ,
           without
           any
           distinction
           .
           It
           is
           at
           Venice
           ,
           in
           the
           Church
           ,
           as
           well
           as
           in
           the
           State
           ,
           that
           the
           Head
           of
           the
           Body
           hath
           a
           great
           Title
           ;
           and
           particular
           Honours
           done
           him
           ;
           whereas
           in
           the
           mean
           while
           this
           is
           a
           
           meer
           Pageantry
           ,
           and
           under
           these
           big
           words
           there
           is
           lodged
           only
           a
           lig●t
           shadow
           of
           Authority
           ;
           for
           their
           Bishop
           has
           the
           glorious
           Title
           of
           Patriarch
           ,
           as
           well
           as
           the
           Duke
           is
           caled
           their
           Prince
           ,
           and
           his
           Serenity
           ,
           and
           hath
           his
           name
           stampt
           upon
           their
           Coyn
           ;
           so
           the
           Patriarch
           with
           all
           this
           high
           Title
           ,
           hath
           really
           no
           Authority
           :
           For
           not
           only
           
             Saint
             Mark
             's
             Church
          
           is
           intirely
           exempted
           from
           his
           jurisdiction
           ,
           and
           is
           immediately
           subject
           to
           the
           Duke
           ,
           but
           his
           Authority
           is
           in
           all
           other
           things
           so
           subject
           to
           the
           Senate
           ,
           and
           so
           regulated
           by
           them
           ,
           that
           he
           hath
           no
           more
           power
           ,
           than
           they
           are
           pleased
           to
           allow
           him
           :
           So
           that
           the
           Senate
           is
           as
           really
           the
           supream
           Governour
           over
           all
           persons
           ,
           and
           in
           all
           causes
           ,
           as
           the
           Kings
           of
           England
           have
           pretended
           to
           be
           in
           their
           own
           Dominions
           since
           the
           Reformation
           :
           But
           besides
           all
           this
           ,
           the
           
             Clergy
             of
             Venice
          
           have
           a
           very
           extraordinary
           sort
           of
           Exemption
           ,
           and
           are
           a
           sort
           of
           a
           body
           like
           a
           Presbytery
           independent
           of
           the
           Bishop
           :
           The
           Curats
           are
           chosen
           by
           the
           Inhabitants
           of
           every
           Parish
           ,
           and
           this
           makes
           that
           no
           
             Noble
             Venetian
          
           is
           suffered
           to
           pretend
           to
           any
           Cura●y
           ;
           for
           they
           think
           it
           below
           that
           dignity
           ,
           to
           suffer
           one
           of
           their
           body
           ,
           to
           engage
           in
           a
           competition
           with
           one
           of
           a
           lower
           order
           ,
           and
           to
           run
           the
           hazard
           of
           being
           rejected
           ,
           I
           was
           told
           ,
           the
           manner
           of
           those
           Elections
           was
           the
           most
           scandalous
           thing
           possible
           ;
           for
           the
           several
           Candidates
           appear
           on
           the
           day
           of
           Election
           ,
           and
           set
           out
           their
           own
           Merits
           ,
           and
           defame
           the
           other
           Pretenders
           in
           the
           sowlest
           Language
           ,
           and
           in
           the
           most
           scurrilous
           manner
           imaginable
           ;
           the
           secrets
           of
           all
           their
           Lives
           are
           publisht
           in
           most
           reproachful
           terms
           ,
           and
           nothing
           is
           so
           abject
           and
           ridiculous
           ,
           that
           is
           not
           put
           in
           practice
           on
           those
           occasions
           :
           There
           is
           a
           sort
           of
           an
           Association
           among
           the
           C●rats
           for
           judging
           of
           their
           common
           concerns
           ,
           and
           some
           of
           the
           Laity
           of
           the
           several
           Parishes
           assist
           in
           those
           Courts
           ,
           so
           that
           here
           is
           a
           real
           Presbytery
           .
           The
           great
           Libertinage
           ,
           that
           is
           so
           undecently
           practised
           by
           most
           sorts
           of
           people
           at
           Venice
           ,
           extends
           it self
           to
           the
           Clergy
           to
           such
           a
           degree
           ,
           that
           tho
           Ignorance
           and
           Vice
           ,
           seem
           the
           only
           indelible
           Characters
           ,
           that
           they
           carry
           generally
           over
           all
           Italy
           ,
           yet
           those
           appear
           here
           in
           a
           much
           more
           conspicuous
           manner
           
           than
           elsewhere
           ;
           and
           upon
           these
           popular
           elections
           all
           comes
           out
           .
           The
           Nuns
           of
           Venice
           have
           been
           under
           much
           scandal
           for
           a
           great
           while
           ;
           there
           are
           some
           Nunnerys
           that
           are
           as
           famous
           for
           their
           strictness
           and
           exactness
           to
           their
           Rules
           ,
           as
           others
           are
           for
           the
           Liberties
           they
           take
           :
           chiefly
           those
           of
           
             Saint
             Zachary
          
           and
           
             Saint
             Laurence
          
           ,
           where
           none
           but
           
             Noble
             Venetians
          
           are
           admitted
           ,
           and
           where
           it
           is
           not
           so
           much
           as
           pretended
           ,
           that
           they
           have
           retired
           for
           Devotion
           ;
           but
           it
           is
           owned
           to
           be
           done
           meerly
           ,
           that
           they
           might
           not
           be
           too
           great
           a
           Charge
           to
           their
           Family
           :
           They
           are
           not
           vailed
           ,
           their
           neck
           and
           breast
           is
           bare
           ,
           and
           they
           receive
           much
           company
           :
           but
           that
           which
           I
           saw
           ,
           was
           in
           a
           publick
           Room
           ,
           in
           which
           there
           were
           many
           Grills
           for
           several
           Parlors
           ,
           so
           that
           the
           conversation
           is
           very
           confused
           ;
           for
           there
           being
           a
           different
           company
           at
           every
           Grill
           ,
           and
           the
           Italians
           speaking
           generally
           very
           loud
           ,
           the
           noise
           of
           so
           many
           loud
           Talkers
           ,
           is
           very
           disagreeable
           .
           The
           Nuns
           talk
           much
           ,
           and
           very
           ungracefully
           ,
           and
           allow
           themselves
           a
           liberty
           in
           Rallying
           ,
           that
           other
           places
           could
           not
           bear
           .
           About
           four
           years
           ago
           the
           Patraiarch
           intended
           to
           bring
           in
           a
           Reform
           into
           those
           Houses
           ;
           hut
           the
           Nuns
           of
           
             S.
             Laurence
          
           ,
           with
           whom
           he
           began
           ,
           told
           him
           plainly
           ,
           they
           were
           
             Noble
             Ven●tians
          
           ,
           who
           had
           chosen
           that
           way
           of
           life
           as
           more
           convenient
           for
           them
           ,
           but
           they
           would
           not
           subject
           themselves
           to
           his
           Regulations
           ;
           yet
           he
           came
           and
           would
           shut
           up
           their
           house
           ,
           so
           they
           went
           to
           set
           fire
           to
           it
           ;
           upon
           which
           the
           Senate
           interposed
           ,
           and
           ordered
           the
           Patriarch
           to
           desist
           .
           There
           is
           no
           
             Christian
             State
          
           in
           the
           World
           ,
           that
           hath
           expressed
           a
           Jealousie
           of
           Church
           mens
           getting
           into
           the
           publick
           Councils
           so
           much
           as
           the
           Veneti●ns
           :
           for
           as
           a
           
             Noble
             Venetian
          
           ,
           that
           goes
           into
           Orders
           ,
           loses
           thereby
           his
           right
           of
           going
           to
           vote
           in
           the
           
             great
             Council
          
           ;
           so
           when
           any
           of
           them
           are
           promoted
           to
           be
           Cardinals
           ,
           the
           whole
           kin●red
           and
           family
           must
           (
           during
           their
           lives
           )
           withdraw
           from
           the
           
             great
             Council
          
           ,
           and
           are
           also
           incapable
           of
           all
           imployments
           :
           And
           by
           a
           clause
           ,
           which
           they
           added
           when
           they
           received
           the
           Inqu●sition
           ,
           which
           seemed
           of
           no
           great
           consequence
           ,
           they
           have
           made
           it
           to
           become
           a
           Court
           absolutely
           subject
           to
           them
           ;
           
           for
           it
           being
           provided
           ,
           that
           the
           Inquisitors
           should
           do
           nothing
           but
           in
           the
           presence
           of
           such
           as
           should
           be
           Deputed
           by
           the
           Senate
           ,
           to
           be
           the
           Witnesses
           of
           their
           proceedings
           ,
           those
           Deputies
           either
           will
           no●
           come
           but
           when
           they
           think
           fit
           ;
           or
           will
           not
           stay
           longer
           than
           they
           are
           pleased
           with
           their
           proceedings
           ;
           so
           that
           either
           their
           absence
           ,
           or
           their
           withdrawing
           ,
           dissolves
           the
           Court
           :
           for
           a
           Citation
           cannot
           be
           made
           ,
           a
           Witness
           cannot
           be
           examined
           ,
           nor
           the
           lea●●
           point
           of
           Form
           carried
           on
           ,
           if
           the
           Deputies
           of
           the
           Senate
           a●●
           not
           present
           :
           and
           thus
           it
           is
           ,
           that
           tho
           there
           is
           a
           
             Court
             of
             I●quisition
          
           at
           V●nice
           ,
           yet
           there
           is
           scarce
           any
           person
           brough●
           into
           trouble
           by
           it
           ;
           and
           there
           are
           many
           of
           the
           
             Protesta●●
             Religion
          
           that
           live
           there
           without
           any
           trouble
           :
           and
           tho
           there
           is
           a
           Congregation
           of
           them
           there
           ,
           that
           hath
           their
           exercises
           of
           Religion
           very
           regularly
           ,
           yet
           the
           Senate
           gives
           them
           no
           trouble
           .
           It
           is
           true
           ,
           the
           Hosty's
           not
           being
           carried
           about
           in
           Proc●ssion
           ,
           but
           secretly
           by
           the
           Priest
           to
           the
           Sick
           ,
           makes
           that
           this
           uneasy
           discrimination
           of
           Protesta●●
           and
           Papist
           ,
           doth
           not
           offer
           it self
           here
           ,
           as
           in
           other
           places
           ;
           for
           the
           straitness
           of
           the
           streets
           ,
           and
           the
           Channals
           through
           which
           one
           must
           go
           almost
           every
           foot
           ,
           makes
           that
           this
           could
           not
           be
           done
           in
           Venice
           as
           it
           is
           elsewhere
           ;
           and
           from
           Veni●e
           this
           Rule
           is
           carried
           over
           their
           whole
           Territory
           ,
           tho
           the
           like
           Reason
           doth
           not
           hold
           in
           the
           
             Terra
             Firma
          
           .
           The
           Venetians
           are
           generally
           ignorant
           of
           the
           matters
           of
           Religion
           to
           ●
           scandal
           ,
           and
           they
           a●e
           as
           unconcerned
           in
           them
           ,
           as
           they
           are
           Strangers
           to
           them
           ;
           so
           that
           all
           that
           vast
           pomp
           in
           their
           Ceremonies
           ,
           and
           wealth
           in
           their
           Churches
           ,
           is
           affected
           rather
           as
           a
           point
           of
           Magnificence
           ,
           or
           a
           matter
           of
           Emulation
           among
           Families
           ,
           than
           that
           Superstition
           hath
           here
           such
           a
           power
           over
           the
           Spirits
           of
           the
           People
           ,
           as
           it
           hath
           elsewhere
           :
           for
           the
           Athe●sm
           that
           is
           received
           by
           many
           here
           ,
           is
           the
           dullest
           ,
           and
           cou●sest
           thing
           that
           can
           be
           imagined
           .
           The
           young
           Nobility
           are
           so
           generally
           corrupted
           in
           their
           Morals
           ,
           and
           so
           given
           up
           to
           a
           most
           supine
           Ignorance
           o●
           all
           sort
           of
           knowledge
           ,
           that
           a
           man
           cannot
           easily
           imagi●
           to
           what
           a
           height
           this
           is
           grown
           ;
           and
           for
           
             Military
             Co●rage
          
           ,
           
           there
           is
           scarce
           so
           much
           as
           the
           Ambition
           of
           being
           thought
           brave
           remaining
           among
           the
           greater
           part
           of
           them
           .
           It
           seemed
           to
           me
           a
           strange
           thing
           ,
           to
           see
           the
           Bro●lio
           ,
           so
           full
           of
           graceful
           young
           Senators
           and
           Nobles
           ,
           when
           there
           was
           so
           glorious
           a
           War
           on
           foot
           with
           the
           Turks
           ;
           but
           instead
           of
           being
           heated
           in
           point
           of
           Honour
           to
           hazard
           t●●ir
           lives
           ,
           they
           rather
           think
           it
           an
           extravagant
           piece
           of
           Folly
           ,
           for
           them
           to
           go
           and
           hazard
           it
           ,
           when
           a
           little
           Money
           can
           hire
           Strangers
           ,
           that
           do
           it
           on
           such
           easie
           term●
           ;
           and
           thus
           their
           Arms
           are
           in
           the
           hands
           of
           strangers
           ,
           while
           they
           stay
           at
           home
           managing
           their
           In●rigues
           in
           the
           Broglio
           ,
           and
           dissolving
           their
           spirits
           among
           their
           Courtisans
           .
           And
           the
           Reputation
           of
           their
           Service
           is
           of
           late
           years
           so
           mu●h
           sunk
           ,
           that
           it
           is
           very
           strange
           to
           see
           so
           many
           come
           to
           a
           service
           so
           decryed
           ,
           where
           there
           is
           so
           little
           care
           had
           of
           the
           Souldiers
           ,
           and
           so
           little
           regard
           had
           to
           the
           Officers
           ;
           the
           Arrea●s
           are
           so
           slowly
           pay'd
           ,
           and
           the
           Rewards
           are
           so
           scantly
           distributed
           ,
           that
           if
           they
           do
           not
           change
           their
           Maxims
           ,
           they
           may
           come
           to
           feel
           this
           very
           sensibly
           ;
           for
           as
           their
           Subjects
           are
           not
           acquainted
           with
           Warlike
           matters
           ,
           so
           their
           Nobili●y
           have
           no
           sort
           of
           Ambition
           that
           way
           ,
           and
           strangers
           are
           extreamly
           disgusted
           .
           It
           is
           chiefly
           to
           the
           conjuncture
           of
           affairs
           ●hat
           ●hey
           owe
           their
           Safety
           ;
           for
           the
           Feebleness
           of
           all
           their
           Neighbours
           ,
           the
           Turk
           ,
           the
           Emperour
           ,
           the
           
             K●ng
             of
             Sp●in
          
           ,
           the
           P●pe
           ,
           and
           the
           
             Duke
             o●
             Mantua
          
           ,
           preserves
           them
           from
           the
           apprehension
           of
           an
           Invasion
           ;
           and
           the
           Quarrels
           ,
           and
           Degeneracy
           of
           their
           Subjects
           ,
           save
           th●m
           from
           the
           Fears
           of
           a
           Revolt
           ;
           but
           a
           formidable
           Neighbour
           would
           put
           them
           hard
           to
           it
           .
           One
           great
           O●casion
           of
           the
           Deg●neracy
           of
           the
           Italians
           ,
           and
           in
           particular
           of
           the
           
             Venetian
             Nobility
          
           ,
           is
           a
           Maxim
           that
           hath
           been
           taken
           up
           for
           some
           considerable
           time
           ,
           
             that
             for
             the
             preservation
             of
             their
             Famili●●
             ,
             it
             is
             fit
             t●at
             only
             one
             of
             a
             Famil●
             should
             marry
          
           ;
           to
           which
           I
           will
           not
           add
           ,
           that
           it
           is
           generally
           believed
           ,
           that
           the
           Wife
           is
           in
           common
           to
           the
           whole
           Family
           .
           By
           this
           means
           the
           younger
           Brothers
           ,
           that
           have
           Appointments
           for
           ●ife
           ,
           and
           that
           have
           no
           Families
           that
           come
           from
           them
           ,
           are
           not
           stirred
           up
           by
           any
           Ambition
           to
           signa●ize
           
           themselves
           ,
           or
           to
           make
           Families
           ,
           and
           so
           they
           give
           way
           to
           all
           the
           Laziness
           of
           Luxury
           ,
           and
           are
           quite
           enervated
           by
           it
           .
           Whereas
           the
           best
           Services
           done
           in
           other
           State●
           ,
           flows
           from
           the
           Necessities
           as
           well
           as
           the
           Aspirings
           of
           younger
           Brothers
           ,
           or
           their
           Families
           ,
           whose
           blood
           qualifi●s
           them
           to
           pretend
           ,
           as
           well
           as
           their
           Pride
           and
           Necessities
           push
           them
           on
           ,
           to
           acquire
           first
           a
           Reputation
           ,
           and
           the●
           a
           Fortune
           :
           But
           all
           this
           is
           a
           Mystery
           to
           the
           Venetians
           ,
           who
           apprehend
           so
           much
           from
           the
           active
           Spirits
           of
           a
           necessitou●
           Nobility
           ,
           that
           to
           lay
           those
           to
           sleep
           ,
           they
           incourage
           them
           in
           all
           those
           things
           that
           may
           blunt
           and
           depress
           the●●
           Minds
           ;
           and
           youth
           naturally
           hates
           Letters
           as
           much
           as
           it
           loves
           Pleasure
           ,
           when
           it
           is
           so
           far
           from
           being
           restrained
           ,
           that
           it
           is
           rather
           pushed
           on
           to
           all
           the
           Licentiousness
           of
           unlimitted
           Disorders
           .
        
         
           Yet
           I
           must
           add
           one
           thing
           ,
           that
           tho
           Venice
           ,
           is
           the
           place
           in
           the
           whole
           World
           ,
           where
           pleasure
           is
           most
           studied
           ,
           and
           where
           the
           youth
           have
           both
           the
           greatest
           Wealth
           ,
           and
           the
           most
           leisure
           to
           pursue
           it
           ;
           yet
           it
           is
           the
           place
           that
           I
           ever
           saw
           ,
           where
           true
           and
           innocent
           Pleasure
           is
           the
           least
           understood
           ;
           in
           which
           I
           will
           make
           a
           little
           Digression
           ,
           that
           perhaps
           will
           not
           be
           unpleasant
           .
           As
           for
           the
           Pleasure●
           of
           Friendship
           ,
           or
           Marriage
           ,
           they
           are
           Strangers
           to
           them
           ;
           for
           the
           horrible
           distrust
           ,
           in
           which
           they
           all
           live
           ,
           of
           one
           another
           ,
           makes
           ;
           that
           it
           is
           very
           rare
           to
           find
           a
           Friend
           in
           Italy
           ;
           but
           most
           of
           all
           in
           Venice
           :
           and
           tho
           we
           have
           been
           told
           of
           several
           Stories
           of
           celebrated
           Friendships
           there
           ,
           yet
           these
           are
           now
           very
           rare
           .
           As
           for
           their
           Wives
           ,
           they
           are
           bred
           to
           so
           much
           ignorance
           ,
           and
           they
           converse
           so
           little
           ,
           that
           they
           know
           nothing
           but
           the
           d●ll
           Superstition
           on
           Holy-dayes
           ,
           in
           which
           they
           stay
           in
           the
           Chur●hes
           as
           long
           as
           they
           can
           ,
           and
           so
           prolong
           the
           little
           Liberty
           they
           have
           of
           going
           abroad
           on
           those
           dayes
           ,
           as
           Children
           do
           their
           Hours
           of
           play
           :
           They
           are
           not
           imployed
           in
           their
           Domestick
           Affairs
           ,
           and
           generally
           they
           understand
           no
           sort
           of
           Work
           ;
           so
           that
           I
           was
           told
           ,
           that
           they
           were
           the
           insipidest
           Creatures
           imaginable
           :
           They
           are
           perhaps
           as
           vitious
           as
           in
           other
           places
           ,
           but
           it
           is
           among
           them
           downright
           Lewdnes●
           ;
           
           for
           they
           are
           not
           drawn
           into
           it
           ,
           by
           the
           intanglements
           of
           Amour
           ,
           that
           inveigle
           and
           lead
           many
           persons
           much
           farther
           than
           they
           imagined
           or
           intended
           at
           first
           ;
           but
           in
           them
           ,
           the
           first
           step
           ,
           without
           any
           preamble
           or
           preparative
           ,
           is
           downright
           beastliness
           .
           And
           an
           Italian
           that
           knew
           the
           World
           well
           ,
           said
           upon
           this
           matter
           a
           very
           lively
           thing
           to
           me
           ,
           he
           said
           ,
           
             their
             jealousy
             made
             them
             restrain
             their
          
           Daughters
           ,
           
             and
             their
          
           Wives
           
             so
             much
             ,
             that
             they
             could
             have
             none
             of
             those
             Domestick
             Entertainm●nts
             of
             Wit
             ,
             Conversation
             ,
             and
             Friendship
             ,
             that
             the
          
           French
           or
           English
           
             have
             at
             home
          
           :
           It
           is
           true
           ,
           those
           he
           said
           hazard
           a
           little
           the
           Honour
           of
           their
           Families
           by
           that
           Liberty
           ;
           but
           the
           Italians
           ,
           by
           their
           excessive
           Caution
           ,
           made
           that
           they
           had
           none
           of
           the
           true
           Delights
           of
           a
           Married
           Sta●e
           ;
           and
           notwithstanding
           all
           their
           uneasy
           jealousy
           ,
           they
           were
           still
           in
           danger
           of
           a
           contraband
           Nobility
           ;
           therefore
           he
           thought
           they
           would
           do
           much
           better
           to
           hazard
           a
           little
           ,
           when
           it
           would
           produce
           a
           certain
           satisfaction
           ,
           than
           to
           watch
           so
           anxiously
           ,
           and
           thereby
           have
           an
           insipid
           Companion
           ,
           inste●d
           of
           a
           lively
           Friend
           ,
           tho
           she
           might
           perhaps
           have
           some
           ill
           moments
           .
           As
           for
           their
           houses
           ,
           they
           have
           nothing
           convenient
           at
           Venice
           ;
           for
           the
           Architecture
           is
           almost
           all
           the
           same
           ▪
           one
           Stair-case
           ,
           a
           Hall
           that
           runs
           along
           the
           Body
           of
           the
           House
           ,
           and
           Chambers
           on
           both
           hands
           ;
           but
           there
           are
           no
           Apartments
           ,
           no
           Closet●
           or
           Backstairs
           ;
           so
           that
           in
           houses
           that
           are
           of
           an
           excessive
           Wealth
           ,
           they
           have
           yet
           no
           sort
           of
           convenience
           ;
           Their
           Bedsteads
           are
           of
           Iron
           ,
           because
           of
           the
           vermin
           that
           their
           moisture
           produces
           ,
           the
           bottoms
           are
           of
           boards
           ,
           upon
           which
           they
           lay
           so
           many
           Quilts
           ,
           that
           it
           is
           a
           huge
           step
           to
           get
           up
           to
           them
           ;
           their
           great
           Chairs
           are
           all
           upright
           ,
           without
           a
           slope
           in
           the
           back
           ,
           hard
           in
           the
           bottom
           ,
           and
           the
           wood
           of
           the
           Arms
           is
           not
           covered
           :
           they
           mix
           Water
           with
           their
           Wine
           in
           their
           Hogsheads
           ,
           so
           that
           for
           above
           half
           the
           year
           ,
           the
           Wine
           is
           either
           dead
           or
           four
           :
           they
           do
           not
           leaven
           their
           bread
           ,
           so
           that
           it
           is
           extream
           heavy
           ,
           and
           the
           Oven
           is
           too
           much
           heated
           ,
           so
           that
           the
           Crum
           is
           as
           Dough
           ,
           when
           the
           Crust
           is
           as
           hard
           as
           a
           Stone
           ;
           in
           all
           Inns
           they
           boil
           meat
           first
           before
           it
           is
           roasted
           ,
           and
           thus
           as
           indeed
           they
           
           make
           it
           tender
           ,
           so
           it
           is
           quite
           tastless
           ,
           and
           insipid
           :
           And
           as
           for
           their
           Land-carriage
           ,
           all
           Lombar●y
           over
           ,
           it
           is
           extream
           inconvenient
           ;
           for
           their
           Co●ches
           are
           fastned
           to
           the
           pearch
           ,
           which
           makes
           them
           as
           uneasie
           as
           a
           Cart
           :
           It
           is
           true
           ,
           they
           begin
           to
           have
           at
           Rome
           ,
           and
           Napl●s
           ,
           Coaches
           that
           are
           fastned
           to
           a
           sort
           of
           double
           Pearch
           ,
           that
           runs
           along
           the
           bottom
           of
           the
           Coach
           of
           both
           sides
           ,
           which
           are
           so
           th●●
           ,
           that
           they
           ply
           to
           the
           motion
           of
           the
           Coach
           ,
           and
           are
           extream
           easy
           ,
           but
           those
           are
           not
           known
           in
           ●om●ardy
           ▪
           and
           besides
           this
           ,
           their
           Caleshes
           are
           open
           ,
           so
           that
           one
           is
           exposed
           to
           the
           Sun
           and
           Dust
           in
           Summer
           ,
           and
           to
           ●●e
           Weather
           in
           W●nter
           :
           But
           tho
           they
           are
           covered
           as
           ours
           are
           ,
           on
           the
           o●her
           side
           of
           the
           Appenins
           ,
           yet
           I
           saw
           none
           that
           were
           covered
           in
           Lombardy
           :
           and
           thus
           by
           an
           enumeratio●
           of
           many
           of
           the
           innocent
           pleasures
           ,
           and
           Con●eniences
           o●
           Life
           ,
           it
           appears
           ,
           that
           the
           Veneti●ns
           pursue
           so
           violentl●
           Forbidden
           Pleasures
           ,
           that
           they
           know
           not
           how
           to
           find
           out
           that
           which
           is
           allowable
           .
           Their
           constant
           practices
           i●
           the
           Broglio
           is
           their
           chief
           business
           ,
           where
           those
           that
           are
           necessitous
           ,
           are
           suing
           for
           imployments
           of
           Advantage
           ,
           and
           those
           that
           are
           sull
           of
           Wealth
           ,
           take
           a
           sort
           of
           pleasure
           in
           crossing
           their
           pretentions
           ,
           and
           in
           imbroiling
           maters
           .
           The
           Wall
           in
           which
           the
           Nobility
           tread
           ,
           is
           left
           to
           them
           :
           for
           no
           o●he●●
           dare
           walk
           among
           them
           ;
           and
           they
           change
           the
           side
           of
           the
           square
           of
           
             Saint
             Mark
          
           as
           the
           Sun
           and
           the
           weather
           direct
           them
           .
           Perhaps
           a
           derivation
           that
           
             Mr.
             Patin
          
           gave
           me
           of
           Broglio
           from
           the
           Greek
           Per●bola●on
           ,
           a
           little
           corrupted
           ,
           is
           not
           forced
           ;
           and
           since
           they
           make
           all
           their
           pa●ties
           ,
           and
           manage
           all
           their
           intrigues
           in
           those
           Wolks
           ,
           I
           am
           apt
           to
           think
           that
           
             Broils
             ,
             Brovillons
          
           and
           Imbroilments
           are
           all
           de●ived
           from
           the
           Agitations
           that
           are
           managed
           in
           those
           Walks
           .
        
         
           As
           for
           the
           last
           created
           Nobility
           of
           V●ni●e
           ,
           I
           came
           to
           know
           some
           particulars
           that
           I
           have
           not
           yet
           seen
           in
           any
           Books
           ,
           which
           I
           suppose
           will
           not
           be
           unacceptable
           to
           you
           .
           It
           is
           certain
           ,
           that
           if
           the
           Venet●ans
           could
           have
           foreseen
           a●
           the
           beginning
           of
           the
           War
           of
           Candy
           ,
           the
           vast
           Expence
           in
           whi●h
           ●he
           length
           of
           it
           ingaged
           them
           ,
           they
           would
           have
           abandoned
           the
           Isle
           ,
           rather
           than
           have
           wasted
           thei●
           
           Treasure
           ,
           and
           debased
           their
           Nobility
           .
           This
           last
           was
           extream
           sensible
           to
           them
           ;
           for
           as
           the
           Dignity
           of
           the
           rank
           they
           hold
           ,
           is
           so
           much
           the
           more
           Eminent
           as
           it
           is
           restrained
           to
           a
           small
           number
           ;
           so
           all
           the
           best
           Imployments
           and
           Honours
           of
           the
           State
           belonging
           to
           this
           Body
           ,
           the
           admitting
           such
           a
           number
           into
           it
           ,
           as
           must
           rise
           out
           of
           seventy
           e●ght
           Families
           ,
           was
           in
           effect
           the
           sharing
           their
           Inheritance
           among
           so
           many
           adopted
           Brothers
           .
           This
           had
           been
           less
           infamous
           ,
           if
           they
           had
           communicated
           that
           Honour
           only
           to
           the
           ancient
           Citizens
           of
           Venice
           ,
           or
           to
           the
           Nobility
           of
           those
           States
           that
           they
           have
           subdued
           in
           the
           
             Terra
             Firm●
          
           ;
           for
           as
           there
           are
           many
           Citizens
           ,
           who
           are
           as
           ancient
           as
           the
           Nobility
           ,
           only
           their
           Ancestors
           not
           hapning
           to
           be
           of
           that
           Co●n●il
           ,
           that
           assumed
           the
           Governme●t
           about
           ●our
           hundre●
           years
           ago
           ,
           they
           have
           not
           been
           raised
           to
           that
           Honour
           ,
           so
           there
           had
           been
           no
           Infamy
           in
           creating
           some
           of
           them
           to
           be
           of
           the
           Nobility
           .
           It
           had
           been
           also
           brought
           under
           consultation
           long
           ago
           ,
           upon
           the
           Reduction
           of
           those
           State
           in
           the
           
             Terra
             Firma
          
           ,
           whether
           it
           was
           not
           advisable
           ,
           according
           to
           the
           Maxims
           of
           the
           Ancient
           Romans
           ,
           to
           communicate
           that
           Dignity
           to
           some
           of
           their
           chief
           Families
           ,
           as
           being
           the
           surest
           Way
           to
           give
           some
           contentment
           to
           those
           States
           ,
           it
           being
           also
           a
           real
           ,
           as
           well
           as
           a
           cheap
           Security
           ,
           when
           the
           chief
           Families
           in
           those
           Cities
           ,
           were
           admitted
           to
           a
           share
           in
           all
           the
           Honours
           of
           the
           Republick
           .
           It
           is
           true
           ,
           some
           of
           the
           Nobility
           of
           those
           States
           thought
           they
           had
           Honour
           enough
           by
           their
           Birth
           ,
           and
           so
           Zambara
           of
           Bres●ia
           refused
           to
           accept
           an
           Honour
           from
           those
           that
           had
           robbed
           his
           Countrey
           of
           its
           Liberty
           ,
           yet
           his
           posterity
           are
           now
           of
           ano●her
           mind
           ;
           for
           ●hey
           came
           and
           bought
           in
           this
           last
           sale
           of
           Honour
           that
           which
           was
           freely
           offered
           to
           their
           Ancestor
           ,
           and
           was
           rejected
           by
           him
           .
           When
           the
           Senate
           found
           it self
           extreamly
           pressed
           for
           Money
           ,
           during
           the
           War
           ,
           it
           was
           at
           first
           proposed
           ,
           that
           some
           Families
           ,
           to
           the
           number
           of
           five
           ,
           might
           be
           Enobled
           ;
           they
           offering
           sixty
           thousand
           Ducats
           if
           they
           were
           Venetians
           ,
           and
           seventy
           thousand
           if
           they
           were
           Strang●rs
           :
           
           There
           was
           but
           one
           person
           that
           opposed
           this
           in
           the
           S●nate
           ,
           so
           it
           being
           passed
           there
           ,
           was
           presented
           to
           the
           
             Great
             Council
          
           ;
           and
           there
           it
           was
           like
           to
           have
           passed
           without
           any
           di●ficulty
           ,
           but
           one
           person
           opposed
           it
           with
           so
           much
           vigor
           ,
           that
           tho
           the
           Duke
           desired
           him
           to
           give
           over
           his
           Opposition
           ,
           since
           the
           Necessities
           of
           the
           War
           required
           a
           great
           supply
           ,
           yet
           he
           persisted
           still
           ;
           and
           tho
           one
           of
           the
           Savii
           set
           for●h
           with
           Tears
           the
           extremities
           to
           which
           the
           State
           was
           reduced
           ,
           he
           still
           insisted
           ,
           and
           fell
           upon
           one
           Conceit
           that
           turned
           the
           whole
           Coun●il
           ;
           he
           said
           ,
           they
           were
           not
           sure
           if
           five
           Persons
           could
           be
           found
           ,
           that
           would
           purchase
           that
           Honour
           at
           such
           a
           rate
           ,
           and
           then
           it
           would
           be
           a
           vast
           Disgrace
           ,
           to
           expose
           the
           offer
           of
           Nobility
           first
           to
           sale
           ;
           and
           then
           to
           the
           Affront
           ,
           of
           finding
           no
           Buyers
           when
           it
           was
           offered
           to
           be
           sold
           ;
           and
           by
           this
           means
           he
           put
           by
           the
           Resolution
           for
           that
           time
           :
           But
           then
           another
           Method
           was
           taken
           ,
           that
           was
           more
           honourable
           ,
           and
           was
           of
           a
           more
           extended
           Consequence
           .
           Labia
           was
           the
           first
           that
           presented
           a
           Petition
           to
           the
           
             Great
             Council
          
           ,
           setting
           forth
           his
           Merits
           towards
           the
           Republi●k
           ,
           and
           desiring
           that
           he
           might
           be
           thought
           worthy
           to
           offer
           a
           hundred
           thousand
           Du●ats
           toward
           the
           service
           of
           the
           State
           :
           this
           was
           understood
           to
           be
           the
           asking
           to
           be
           made
           Nobl●
           at
           that
           price
           .
           Delfino
           said
           ,
           he
           thought
           every
           man
           might
           be
           well
           judged
           worthy
           ,
           to
           offer
           such
           an
           assistance
           to
           the
           Publick
           ,
           and
           that
           such
           as
           brought
           that
           supply
           ,
           might
           expect
           a
           suitable
           acknowledgement
           from
           the
           Senate
           ,
           who
           might
           afterwards
           of
           their
           own
           accord
           bestow
           that
           Honour
           on
           those
           that
           expressed
           so
           much
           Zeal
           for
           the
           Publick
           :
           and
           this
           would
           in
           some
           fort
           maintain
           that
           degree
           ,
           which
           would
           be
           too
           much
           debased
           ▪
           if
           it
           were
           thus
           bought
           and
           sold
           :
           but
           it
           seems
           the
           Purchasers
           had
           no
           mind
           to
           part
           with
           their
           Money
           ,
           and
           to
           leave
           the
           Reward
           to
           the
           Gratitude
           of
           the
           Council
           ,
           so
           the
           Petition
           was
           granted
           in
           plain
           terms
           :
           and
           the
           Nobility
           so
           acquired
           was
           not
           only
           to
           descend
           to
           the
           Children
           of
           him
           that
           was
           enobled
           ;
           but
           to
           his
           Brothers
           ,
           and
           the
           whole
           Family
           to
           such
           a
           degree
           .
           After
           Labia
           ,
           a
           great
           many
           more
           came
           with
           the
           like
           Petitions
           ,
           and
           it
           was
           not
           unpleasant
           to
           see
           in
           what
           terms
           
           Merchants
           ,
           that
           came
           to
           buy
           this
           Honour
           set
           forth
           their
           Merits
           ,
           which
           were
           ,
           that
           they
           had
           taken
           care
           to
           furnish
           the
           Republick
           with
           su●h
           things
           as
           were
           necessaty
           for
           its
           preservation
           .
           There
           was
           a
           sort
           of
           a
           Trium●irat●ormed
           ●ormed
           ,
           of
           a
           Iew
           ,
           a
           Greek
           ,
           and
           an
           Italian
           ,
           who
           were
           the
           Brokers
           ,
           and
           found
           out
           the
           Merchants
           :
           and
           at
           last
           brought
           down
           the
           price
           from
           a
           hundred
           thousand
           ,
           to
           sixty
           thousand
           Ducats
           ;
           and
           no
           other
           qualifications
           were
           required
           ,
           if
           they
           had
           money
           enough
           :
           For
           when
           Correge
           said
           to
           the
           Duke
           ,
           that
           he
           was
           afraid
           to
           ask
           that
           Honour
           for
           want
           of
           Merit
           ,
           the
           Duke
           asked
           him
           ,
           
             if
             he
             had
             a
             hundred
             thousand
             Ducats
             ?
          
           and
           when
           the
           other
           answered
           ,
           
             the
             Sam
             was
             ready
          
           ;
           the
           Duke
           told
           him
           ,
           
             that
             was
             a
             great
             M●rit
          
           .
           At
           last
           seventy
           eight
           pur●hased
           this
           Honour
           ,
           to
           the
           great
           regret
           of
           Laebia
           :
           who
           said
           ,
           that
           if
           he
           had
           imagined
           ,
           that
           so
           many
           would
           have
           followed
           him
           in
           that
           demand
           ,
           he
           would
           have
           bid
           so
           high
           for
           it
           ,
           that
           it
           should
           have
           been
           out
           of
           ●heir
           power
           to
           have
           done
           it
           .
           It
           is
           true
           ,
           many
           of
           the
           Purchasers
           were
           Ancient
           and
           Noble
           Families
           ;
           but
           many
           others
           were
           not
           only
           Merchants
           ,
           but
           were
           of
           the
           lowest
           sort
           of
           them
           :
           who
           as
           they
           had
           inriched
           themselves
           by
           Trade
           ,
           did
           then
           impoverish
           themselves
           by
           the
           acquisition
           of
           an
           Honour
           ,
           that
           as
           it
           obliged
           them
           to
           give
           over
           their
           Trade
           ,
           and
           put
           them
           in
           a
           higher
           Way
           of
           living
           ,
           so
           it
           hath
           not
           brought
           them
           yet
           in
           any
           Advantage
           to
           ballance
           that
           Lofs
           :
           for
           they
           are
           so
           much
           despised
           ,
           that
           they
           are
           generally
           excluded
           ,
           when
           they
           compete
           with
           the
           ancient
           Nobility
           ;
           tho
           this
           is
           done
           with
           that
           Discretion
           ,
           that
           the
           old
           Families
           do
           not
           declare
           always
           against
           the
           new
           ;
           for
           that
           would
           throw
           the
           new
           into
           a
           Faction
           against
           them
           ,
           which
           might
           be
           a
           great
           prejudice
           to
           them
           ;
           for
           the
           new
           ,
           are
           much
           more
           numerous
           than
           the
           old
           .
           Another
           great
           Pr●judice
           that
           the
           R●p●bli●k
           feels
           by
           this
           great
           Promotion
           ,
           is
           ,
           that
           the
           Chief
           Families
           of
           the
           Citizens
           of
           V●nice
           ,
           who
           had
           been
           lo●g
           practised
           in
           the
           Affairs
           of
           State
           ,
           and
           out
           of
           whom
           the
           Envoyes
           ,
           the
           
             Secretaries
             of
             State
          
           ,
           and
           the
           Chancellour
           ,
           that
           is
           the
           Head
           of
           the
           Citizens
           ,
           as
           well
           as
           the
           Duke
           is
           the
           Head
           of
           the
           Nobility
           ,
           are
           to
           be
           chosen
           ,
           having
           purchased
           
           the
           Chief
           Honour
           of
           the
           State
           ,
           there
           is
           not
           now
           a
           sufficient
           Number
           of
           capable
           Citizens
           left
           for
           serving
           the
           St●te
           in
           those
           Imployments
           ;
           but
           this
           defect
           will
           be
           red●est
           with
           the
           help
           of
           a
           little
           time
           .
           But
           if
           this
           increase
           of
           the
           N●bility
           ,
           hath
           leslened
           ●he
           dignity
           of
           the
           ancient
           Families
           ,
           the●e
           is
           a
           Regula●ion
           made
           in
           this
           age
           ,
           that
           st●●l
           preserves
           a
           considerable
           distinction
           of
           Authority
           in
           their
           hands
           .
           Crimes
           against
           the
           State
           ,
           when
           committed
           by
           any
           of
           the
           Nobility
           ,
           were
           alwayes
           judged
           by
           the
           Inquisitors
           ,
           and
           the
           
             Council
             of
             Ten
          
           ;
           but
           all
           other
           crimes
           were
           judged
           by
           the
           
             Council
             of
             Forty
          
           .
           But
           in
           the
           year
           1624.
           one
           of
           the
           Nobles
           was
           accused
           of
           Peculat
           ,
           committed
           in
           one
           of
           their
           Governments
           ,
           and
           the
           Avogadore
           ,
           in
           the
           pleading
           ▪
           as
           he
           set
           forth
           his
           crime
           ,
           called
           him
           a
           Rogue
           and
           a
           Robber
           :
           yet
           tho
           his
           Crimes
           were
           mani●est
           ,
           there
           being
           but
           six
           and
           twenty
           Iudges
           present
           ,
           twelve
           only
           condemned
           him
           ,
           and
           fourteen
           acquitted
           him
           ;
           this
           gave
           gre●●
           O●fence
           ;
           for
           tho
           he
           was
           acquitted
           by
           his
           Judges
           ,
           his
           Crimes
           were
           evident
           ,
           so
           that
           his
           fame
           could
           not
           be
           restored
           :
           for
           the
           Depositions
           of
           the
           Witnesses
           ,
           and
           the
           Avogadores
           (
           or
           the
           
             Attorney
             Generals
          
           )
           charge
           ,
           were
           heard
           by
           the
           people
           ;
           so
           it
           was
           proposed
           to
           make
           a
           Difference
           between
           the
           Nobility
           ,
           and
           the
           other
           Subjects
           ;
           and
           since
           all
           Tryals
           before
           the
           Forty
           were
           publick
           ,
           and
           the
           Tryal●
           before
           the
           Ten
           were
           in
           Secret
           ,
           it
           seemed
           fit
           to
           remit
           the
           Nobility
           to
           be
           tryed
           by
           the
           T●n
           ▪
           Some
           foresaw
           ,
           that
           this
           would
           tend
           to
           a
           Tyranny
           ,
           and
           raise
           the
           Dignity
           of
           the
           ancient
           Families
           (
           of
           whom
           the
           
             Council
             of
             Ten
          
           is
           alwayes
           composed
           )
           too
           high
           ;
           therefore
           they
           opposed
           it
           upon
           this
           ground
           ,
           that
           since
           the
           
             Coun●il
             of
             Forty
          
           sent
           out
           man●
           Orders
           to
           the
           Governours
           ,
           it
           would
           very
           mu●h
           lesse●
           their
           Authority
           ,
           if
           they
           were
           not
           to
           be
           the
           Judges
           of
           those
           ,
           who
           were
           obliged
           to
           receive
           their
           Orders
           :
           but
           to
           qualify
           this
           Opposition
           ,
           a
           Proviso
           was
           made
           ,
           that
           reserved
           to
           the
           
             Cou●cil
             of
             Forty
          
           a
           Power
           to
           judge
           of
           the
           Obedience
           that
           was
           given
           to
           their
           Orders
           ;
           bu●
           all
           other
           Accus●tions
           of
           the
           Nobility
           were
           remitted
           to
           the
           
             Coun●il
             of
             Ten
          
           ▪
           and
           the
           Body
           of
           the
           Nobility
           were
           so
           pleased
           with
           this
           distinction
           ,
           
           that
           was
           put
           between
           them
           and
           the
           other
           Subjects
           ,
           that
           they
           did
           not
           see
           ,
           that
           this
           did
           really
           insla●e
           them
           so
           mu●h
           the
           more
           ,
           and
           brought
           them
           under
           more
           danger
           ;
           since
           those
           who
           judge
           in
           secret
           have
           a
           freer
           scope
           to
           their
           Passions
           ,
           than
           those
           whose
           proceedings
           are
           Publi●k
           ,
           and
           so
           are
           in
           effect
           judged
           by
           the
           Publick
           ,
           which
           is
           often
           a
           very
           effectual
           restraint
           u●on
           the
           Judges
           ●hemselves
           .
           But
           the
           
             Council
             of
             Ten
          
           being
           g●nerally
           in
           the
           hands
           of
           the
           great
           Families
           ;
           whereas
           those
           of
           all
           sorts
           are
           of
           the
           
             Council
             of
             F●rty
          
           ,
           which
           was
           the
           chief
           Iudicatory
           of
           the
           State
           ,
           and
           is
           much
           Ancienter
           than
           shat
           of
           T●n
           :
           it
           had
           been
           much
           more
           wisely
           done
           of
           them
           to
           have
           been
           still
           Judged
           by
           the
           Forty
           :
           And
           if
           they
           had
           thought
           it
           for
           their
           Honour
           ,
           to
           have
           a
           di●ference
           made
           in
           the
           way
           of
           Judging
           the
           Nobi●ity
           ,
           and
           the
           other
           Subjects
           ,
           it
           had
           been
           more
           for
           their
           Security
           ,
           to
           have
           brought
           their
           Tryals
           to
           this
           ,
           that
           whereas
           the
           Forty
           judge
           all
           other
           Offenders
           with
           
             Open
             Doors
          
           ,
           the
           Nobility
           should
           be
           judged
           the
           
             Doors
             being
             shut
          
           ,
           which
           is
           a
           thing
           they
           very
           mu●h
           desire
           now
           ,
           but
           without
           any
           hope
           of
           ever
           obtaining
           it
           .
           For
           this
           pow●r
           of
           Judging
           the
           N●bility
           ,
           is
           now
           considered
           as
           the
           Right
           of
           the
           Ten
           ;
           and
           if
           any
           man
           would
           go
           about
           to
           change
           it
           ,
           the
           Inquisitors
           would
           be
           pe●haps
           very
           qu●ck
           wi●h
           him
           as
           a
           Mover
           of
           Sedition
           ,
           and
           be
           ,
           in
           th●t
           case
           ,
           both
           Judge
           and
           Party
           ;
           Yet
           the
           Inquisitors
           being
           appr●hensive
           of
           the
           distast
           ,
           that
           this
           might
           breed
           in
           the
           Body
           of
           the
           Nobility
           ,
           have
           made
           a
           sort
           of
           Regulation
           ,
           tho
           it
           doth
           not
           amount
           to
           much
           ;
           which
           is
           ,
           that
           the
           Nobility
           shall
           be
           judged
           before
           the
           
             Council
             of
             Ten
          
           for
           attrocious
           Cases
           ,
           such
           as
           Matters
           of
           State
           ,
           the
           Robbing
           the
           Publick
           ,
           and
           other
           enormous
           Crimes
           ;
           but
           that
           for
           all
           other
           matters
           ,
           they
           are
           to
           be
           judged
           by
           the
           Forty
           :
           yet
           the
           
             Coun●il
             of
             Ten
          
           draws
           all
           Cases
           before
           them
           ,
           and
           none
           dare
           dispute
           wi●h
           them
           .
        
         
           But
           this
           leads
           me
           to
           say
           a
           lit●le
           to
           you
           of
           that
           part
           of
           ●h●s
           Constitution
           ,
           which
           is
           so
           mu●h
           censured
           by
           Strangers
           ;
           but
           is
           really
           both
           the
           greatest
           Glory
           ,
           and
           the
           chief
           Security
           of
           this
           Republick
           ,
           which
           is
           ,
           
             the
             un●imitted
             
             Power
             of
             the
             Inquisitors
             ,
          
           that
           extends
           not
           only
           to
           the
           Chief
           of
           the
           Nobility
           ,
           but
           to
           the
           Duke
           himself
           ,
           who
           is
           so
           subject
           to
           them
           ,
           that
           they
           may
           not
           only
           give
           hi●
           severe
           Reprimands
           ,
           but
           search
           his
           Papers
           ,
           make
           h●●
           Process
           ,
           and
           in
           conclusion
           ,
           put
           him
           to
           death
           ,
           witho●●
           being
           bound
           to
           give
           an
           Account
           of
           their
           proceedings
           ,
           except
           to
           the
           
             Council
             of
             Ten
          
           :
           This
           is
           the
           Dread
           not
           onl●
           of
           all
           the
           Subjects
           ,
           but
           of
           the
           whole
           Nobility
           ,
           and
           o●
           all
           that
           bear
           Office
           in
           the
           Republick
           ;
           and
           makes
           the
           greatest
           among
           them
           tremble
           ,
           and
           so
           obligeth
           them
           〈◊〉
           an
           exact
           conduct
           .
           But
           tho
           it
           is
           not
           to
           be
           denied
           ,
           tha●
           upon
           some
           occasions
           ,
           they
           may
           have
           been
           a
           little
           too
           sudden
           ,
           particularly
           ,
           in
           the
           known
           story
           of
           Fo●carini
           ;
           〈◊〉
           such
           unjustifiable
           Serverities
           have
           occured
           so
           seldom
           ,
           that
           as
           the
           wisdom
           of
           this
           body
           in
           making
           ,
           and
           preserving
           such
           an
           Institution
           ,
           canno●
           be
           enough
           admired
           ,
           so
           the
           dextrous
           conduct
           of
           those
           who
           manage
           this
           〈◊〉
           Tru●t
           ,
           so
           as
           not
           to
           force
           the
           body
           to
           take
           it
           out
           of
           the●●
           hands
           ,
           is
           likewise
           highly
           to
           be
           wondered
           at
           .
           In
           short
           ,
           the
           Insolence
           ,
           the
           Factions
           ,
           the
           Revenges
           ,
           the
           Necessitie●
           and
           Ambition
           ,
           that
           must
           needs
           possess
           a
           great
           many
           Members
           of
           so
           vast
           a
           body
           ,
           as
           is
           the
           Nobility
           
             of
             Venice
          
           ;
           mu●●
           have
           thrown
           them
           often
           into
           many
           fatal
           Convulsions
           ,
           〈◊〉
           it
           were
           not
           for
           the
           Dread
           in
           which
           they
           all
           stand
           of
           th●s
           Court
           ;
           which
           hath
           so
           many
           Spies
           abroad
           ,
           chiefly
           among
           the
           Gondaliers
           ,
           who
           cannot
           fail
           to
           discover
           all
           the
           secre●
           Commerce
           of
           Venice
           :
           besides
           the
           secret
           Advices
           that
           a●●
           thrown
           in
           at
           so
           many
           of
           those
           
             L●ons
             mouths
          
           ,
           that
           are
           i●
           several
           places
           of
           
             St.
             Mark
             's
             Palace
          
           ,
           within
           which
           there
           are
           Boxes
           that
           are
           under
           the
           keys
           of
           the
           Inquisitors
           ;
           so
           th●●
           it
           is
           scarce
           possible
           for
           a
           man
           to
           be
           long
           in
           any
           design
           ●gainst
           the
           State
           ,
           and
           not
           to
           be
           discovere●
           by
           them
           ▪
           And
           when
           they
           find
           any
           in
           fault
           ,
           they
           are
           so
           inexorable
           ,
           and
           so
           quick
           ,
           as
           well
           as
           severe
           in
           their
           Justice
           ,
           that
           ●he
           very
           fear
           of
           this
           is
           so
           effectual
           a
           restraint
           ,
           that
           perhap●
           the
           long
           preservation
           of
           Venice
           ,
           and
           of
           its
           Liberty
           ,
           is
           owing
           to
           this
           single
           piece
           of
           their
           Constitution
           .
           A●●
           the
           Inquisitors
           are
           persons
           generally
           so
           distinguished
           fo●
           
           their
           Merit
           ,
           who
           must
           be
           all
           of
           different
           Families
           ,
           and
           their
           Authority
           lasts
           so
           short
           a
           while
           ,
           that
           the
           Advantages
           of
           this
           vast
           Authority
           ,
           that
           is
           lodged
           with
           them
           ,
           are
           constant
           and
           visible
           ;
           whereas
           the
           unhappy
           instances
           of
           their
           being
           imposed
           on
           ,
           and
           carrying
           their
           suspicions
           too
           far
           ,
           are
           so
           few
           ,
           that
           whenever
           the
           Nobility
           grows
           weary
           of
           this
           Yoke
           ,
           and
           throws
           it
           off
           ,
           one
           may
           re●kon
           the
           Glory
           and
           Prosperity
           of
           V●nice
           at
           an
           end
           .
           It
           was
           terribly
           attackt
           not
           long
           ago
           by
           Cornaro
           ,
           when
           
             Ierom
             Cornaro
          
           was
           put
           to
           death
           for
           his
           correspondonce
           with
           Spain
           ;
           he
           was
           not
           near
           akin
           to
           the
           great
           Family
           of
           that
           name
           ,
           yet
           the
           Family
           thought
           their
           Honour
           was
           so
           much
           toucht
           when
           one
           of
           its
           remotest
           branches
           wa●
           condemned
           of
           Treason
           ,
           that
           they
           offered
           a
           hundred
           thousand
           Crowns
           to
           have
           saved
           him
           ,
           and
           by
           consequence
           to
           have
           perserved
           the
           Family
           from
           that
           Infamy
           ;
           but
           tho
           this
           was
           not
           accepted
           ;
           (
           for
           he
           suffered
           ,
           ●s
           he
           well
           deserved
           )
           yet
           it
           was
           so
           visible
           ,
           that
           none
           of
           the
           Family
           were
           concerned
           in
           his
           Crimes
           ,
           that
           it
           did
           not
           at
           all
           turn
           to
           their
           Prejudice
           .
           But
           upon
           the
           first
           occa●ion
           that
           offered
           it self
           after
           that
           ,
           to
           quarrel
           with
           the
           proceedings
           of
           the
           Inquisitors
           ,
           they
           laid
           hold
           on
           it
           ,
           and
           aggravated
           the
           matter
           extreamly
           ,
           and
           moved
           for
           the
           limiting
           of
           their
           Authority
           ;
           but
           the
           
             Great
             Council
          
           was
           wiser
           than
           to
           toucht
           so
           sacred
           a
           part
           of
           the
           Government
           ,
           so
           they
           retain
           their
           Power
           very
           intire
           ,
           but
           they
           manage
           it
           with
           all
           possible
           Caution
           .
           A
           Foreigner
           that
           hath
           been
           many
           years
           in
           their
           service
           ,
           told
           me
           ,
           that
           the
           Stories
           with
           which
           Strangers
           were
           frighted
           at
           the
           Arbitrary
           Power
           that
           was
           rested
           in
           those
           Inquisitors
           ,
           were
           slight
           things
           ,
           in
           comparison
           of
           the
           Advantages
           that
           they
           found
           from
           it
           :
           and
           alter
           eleven
           years
           spent
           in
           their
           service
           ,
           he
           said
           ,
           he
           never
           was
           so
           much
           as
           once
           sent
           for
           to
           receive
           a
           Reprimand
           from
           them
           .
           And
           if
           the
           Nobelity
           ,
           that
           have
           any
           Commerce
           with
           Strangers
           ,
           confess
           it
           sincerely
           to
           the
           Inquisitors
           ,
           they
           are
           in
           no
           danger
           by
           it
           ;
           but
           if
           they
           conceal
           it
           ,
           or
           any
           main
           Circumstances
           of
           it
           ,
           their
           Process
           will
           be
           soon
           dispatched
           .
           These
           are
           the
           most
           remarkable
           things
           
           that
           I
           could
           pick
           up
           ,
           during
           my
           stay
           at
           Venice
           .
           〈◊〉
           have
           avoided
           to
           say
           any
           thing
           relating
           to
           their
           several
           
             Councils
             ,
             Offi●ers
          
           ,
           and
           Iudicatories
           ,
           or
           to
           the
           other
           parts
           of
           their
           Government
           ,
           which
           are
           to
           be
           found
           in
           all
           Books
           ;
           and
           the
           Forms
           by
           which
           they
           give
           their
           Votes
           by
           Ballot
           are
           so
           well
           known
           ,
           that
           it
           were
           an
           abusing
           of
           your
           time
           ,
           to
           inlarge
           my
           se●●
           concerning
           them
           ;
           nor
           was
           I
           suffi●iently
           informed
           ,
           concerning
           the
           particulars
           of
           the
           Sale
           of
           Nobil●ty
           that
           is
           now
           on
           foot
           ,
           since
           this
           last
           War
           with
           the
           Turks
           ,
           which
           hath
           made
           them
           willing
           to
           take
           up
           once
           again
           this
           easie
           way
           of
           raising
           of
           Mony
           :
           No●
           could
           I
           give
           credit
           to
           that
           of
           which
           a
           person
           of
           〈◊〉
           Eminence
           there
           assured
           me
           ,
           that
           there
           was
           a
           
             Po●soner
             General
          
           in
           Ve●ice
           ,
           that
           had
           a
           Salary
           ,
           and
           〈◊〉
           imployed
           by
           the
           Inpuisitors
           to
           dispatch
           those
           ,
           again●●
           whom
           a
           publick
           proceeding
           would
           make
           too
           great
           〈◊〉
           noise
           ;
           this
           I
           could
           not
           believe
           ,
           tho
           my
           Author
           protested
           ,
           that
           the
           Brother
           of
           one
           that
           was
           solicited
           t●
           accept
           of
           the
           imployment
           discovered
           it
           to
           him
           .
           The●e
           is
           no
           place
           in
           the
           World
           where
           Strangers
           live
           wit●
           more
           freedom
           ;
           and
           I
           was
           amazed
           to
           see
           so
           litt●●
           Exactness
           among
           the
           Sear●hers
           of
           the
           Customhouse
           for
           though
           we
           had
           a
           Mullets-load
           of
           Trunks
           ,
           an●
           Portmantles
           ,
           yet
           none
           offered
           to
           ask
           us
           ,
           either
           coming
           or
           going
           ,
           what
           we
           were
           ,
           or
           what
           we
           ca●ried
           with
           us
           .
           But
           the
           best
           and
           Noblest
           Entertainmen●
           that
           Veni●e
           afforded
           while
           I
           was
           there
           ,
           was
           the
           Company
           of
           
             Mr.
             de
             la
             Hay●
          
           ,
           the
           
             Fren●h
             Ambass●dor
          
           ,
           who
           as
           he
           hath
           spent
           his
           whole
           life
           in
           public●
           Embassies
           ,
           so
           he
           hath
           acquired
           so
           great
           a
           Kno●ledge
           of
           the
           World
           ,
           with
           so
           true
           a
           Judgment
           ,
           an●
           so
           obliging
           a
           Civility
           ,
           that
           he
           may
           well
           pass
           〈◊〉
           a
           Pattern
           ;
           an●
           it
           is
           no
           wonder
           to
           see
           him
           〈◊〉
           ingaged
           in
           a
           constant
           succession
           of
           publick
           Imployments
           ;
           and
           his
           Lady
           is
           so
           wonderful
           a
           person
           ,
           th●●
           I
           pay
           them
           both
           but
           a
           very
           small
           part
           of
           wh●●
           
           I
           owe
           them
           ,
           in
           this
           Acknowledgment
           ,
           which
           I
           ●udge
           my self
           bound
           to
           make
           of
           their
           extraordinary
           Civilities
           to
           me
           :
           and
           indeed
           ,
           without
           the
           Advan●age
           of
           such
           a
           Rendezvous
           as
           I
           had
           there
           ,
           a
           fortnights
           stay
           at
           V●nice
           had
           been
           a
           very
           te●ious
           mat●er
           .
           From
           Venice
           we
           went
           again
           to
           Padu●
           ;
           From
           ●hence
           to
           Rovigo
           ,
           which
           is
           but
           a
           small
           Town
           ,
           and
           so
           to
           the
           Po
           ,
           which
           divides
           the
           Territory
           of
           the
           R●publick
           from
           the
           Ferrarese
           ▪
           which
           is
           now
           the
           
             Popes
             Country
          
           ;
           and
           here
           one
           sees
           what
           a
           difference
           a
           good
           and
           a
           bad
           Government
           makes
           in
           a
           Coun●ry
           ;
           for
           tho
           the
           soil
           is
           the
           same
           on
           both
           sides
           of
           ●he
           River
           ,
           and
           the
           Ferrarese
           was
           once
           one
           of
           the
           ●eautifullest
           spots
           of
           all
           Italy
           ,
           as
           Ferrara
           was
           one
           o●
           its
           best
           Tow●s
           ,
           while
           they
           had
           Princes
           of
           their
           own
           ,
           who
           for
           a
           course
           of
           some
           Ages
           were
           Prin●es
           of
           such
           Eminent
           Vertue
           ,
           and
           of
           so
           Heroical
           a
           Nobleness
           ,
           that
           they
           were
           really
           the
           Fathers
           of
           ●heir
           Country
           ;
           nothing
           can
           be
           imagined
           more
           changed
           than
           all
           this
           is
           now
           .
           The
           soil
           is
           abandoned
           ,
           and
           uncultivated
           ,
           nor
           were
           there
           hands
           enough
           so
           much
           as
           to
           mow
           their
           Grass
           ,
           which
           we
           saw
           withering
           in
           their
           Meadows
           to
           our
           no
           small
           wonder
           .
           We
           were
           amazed
           to
           see
           so
           rich
           a
           soil
           thu●
           forsaken
           of
           its
           Inhabitants
           ,
           and
           much
           more
           when
           we
           passed
           through
           t●at
           vast
           Town
           ,
           which
           by
           its
           extent
           shews
           what
           it
           was
           about
           an
           age
           ago
           ,
           and
           is
           now
           so
           much
           deserted
           ,
           that
           there
           are
           whole
           sides
           of
           Streets
           without
           Inhabitants
           ;
           and
           the
           Poverty
           of
           the
           Place
           appears
           signally
           in
           the
           Churches
           ,
           which
           are
           mean
           ,
           and
           poorly
           adorned
           ;
           for
           the
           superstition
           of
           Italy
           is
           so
           ravenous
           ,
           and
           makes
           such
           a
           progress
           in
           this
           Age
           ,
           that
           one
           may
           justly
           take
           the
           mea●ures
           of
           the
           Wealth
           of
           any
           place
           from
           the
           Churches
           .
           The
           Superstition
           ,
           or
           Vanity
           of
           
             this
             Age
          
           ,
           is
           so
           much
           beyon●
           that
           of
           the
           past
           (
           tho
           the
           contrary
           to
           this
           is
           commonly
           believed
           )
           that
           all
           the
           vast
           Buildings
           of
           great
           Churches
           
           or
           rich
           Convents
           ,
           and
           the
           surprising
           Wealth
           that
           appears
           in
           them
           on
           Festival
           dayes
           ,
           are
           the
           Donatives
           of
           the
           present
           Age
           ;
           so
           that
           it
           is
           a
           vulgar
           error
           that
           some
           have
           taken
           up
           ,
           who
           fancy
           ,
           that
           
             Superstition
             is
             at
             a
             stand
             ,
             i●
             not
             in
             a
             Decay
          
           ;
           unless
           it
           be
           acknowledged
           ,
           that
           the
           cra●●
           of
           the
           Priests
           hath
           opened
           to
           them
           a
           new
           method
           to
           support
           their
           riches
           ,
           when
           the
           old
           ones
           of
           Purgatory
           ,
           and
           Indulgences
           were
           become
           less
           effectual
           in
           an
           Age
           of
           more
           knowledge
           ,
           and
           better
           inlightned
           ;
           and
           that
           is
           ,
           to
           ingage
           men
           to
           an
           Emulation
           and
           a
           Vanity
           in
           Enriching
           the●●
           Churches
           ,
           as
           much
           as
           other
           Italians
           have
           in
           the
           enrichin●
           their
           Palaces
           ;
           so
           that
           as
           they
           have
           a
           Pleasure
           as
           well
           as
           〈◊〉
           Vanity
           ,
           in
           seeing
           so
           much
           dead
           wealth
           in
           their
           houses
           ,
           they
           have
           translated
           the
           same
           humour
           to
           their
           Churche●
           :
           and
           the
           vanity
           of
           the
           present
           Age
           ,
           that
           believes
           little
           or
           nothing
           of
           those
           contrivances
           ,
           of
           Purgatory
           ,
           or
           the
           like
           ,
           produceth
           the
           same
           ,
           if
           not
           greater
           effects
           ,
           in
           the
           building
           and
           enriching
           their
           Churches
           .
           and
           so
           carries
           it
           ▪
           in
           Expence
           and
           Prodigality
           ,
           from
           the
           superstition
           of
           the
           former
           Ages
           ,
           that
           believed
           every
           thing
           .
           But
           to
           return●●
           Ferrara
           ,
           I
           could
           not
           but
           ask
           all
           I
           saw
           ,
           how
           it
           came
           ,
           that
           so
           rich
           was
           so
           strangely
           abandoned
           ?
           some
           said
           ,
           the
           Air
           was
           become
           so
           unhealthy
           ,
           that
           those
           who
           sta●
           in
           it
           were
           very
           short
           lived
           ;
           but
           it
           is
           well
           known
           ,
           th●●
           fourscore
           years
           ago
           it
           was
           well
           peopled
           ▪
           and
           the
           ill
           Air
           〈◊〉
           occasioned
           by
           the
           want
           of
           Inhabitants
           ;
           for
           there
           no●
           being
           people
           to
           drain
           the
           ground
           ,
           and
           to
           keep
           the
           Ditche●
           clean
           ,
           this
           makes
           that
           there
           is
           a
           great
           deal
           of
           water
           th●●
           li●s
           on
           the
           ground
           and
           rots
           ,
           which
           infects
           the
           Air
           in
           th●
           same
           manner
           ,
           as
           is
           observed
           in
           that
           vast
           and
           rich
           ,
           〈◊〉
           uninhabited
           Champaign
           of
           Rome
           ;
           so
           that
           the
           ill
           Air
           is
           t●●
           effect
           ,
           rather
           than
           the
           cause
           ,
           of
           the
           dispeopling
           of
           t●●
           
             Popes
             Dominions
          
           .
           The
           true
           cause
           is
           the
           Severity
           of
           the
           ●●vernment
           ,
           and
           the
           heavy
           Taxes
           ,
           and
           frequent
           Confisotions
           ,
           by
           which
           the
           Nephews
           of
           several
           Popes
           ,
           as
           the●
           have
           devoured
           many
           of
           the
           Families
           of
           Ferrara
           ,
           so
           the●
           have
           driven
           away
           many
           more
           .
           And
           this
           appears
           mo●●
           visibly
           ,
           by
           the
           different
           State
           as
           well
           as
           the
           Constitutio●
           
           of
           Bologna
           ,
           which
           is
           full
           of
           people
           that
           abound
           in
           Wealth
           ;
           and
           as
           the
           Soil
           is
           extream
           rich
           ,
           so
           it
           is
           cultivated
           with
           all
           due
           care
           .
           For
           Bologna
           delivered
           it self
           to
           the
           P●pedom
           upon
           a
           Capitulation
           ,
           by
           which
           there
           are
           many
           Priviledges
           reserved
           to
           it
           :
           Crimes
           there
           are
           only
           punished
           in
           the
           perfons
           of
           those
           who
           commit
           them
           ;
           but
           there
           are
           no
           confiscations
           of
           Estates
           ;
           and
           tho
           the
           Authority
           ,
           in
           criminal
           matters
           ,
           belongs
           to
           the
           Pope
           ,
           and
           is
           managed
           by
           a
           Legate
           and
           his
           Officers
           ;
           yet
           the
           Civil
           Government
           ,
           the
           Magistracy
           ,
           and
           the
           power
           of
           Judicature
           in
           Civil
           matters
           ,
           is
           int●rely
           in
           the
           hands
           of
           the
           State
           :
           And
           by
           this
           Regulation
           it
           is
           ,
           that
           as
           the
           Riches
           of
           Bologna
           amazes
           a
           Stranger
           ,
           it
           neither
           being
           on
           a
           Navigable
           River
           ,
           by
           which
           it
           is
           not
           capable
           of
           much
           Trade
           ,
           nor
           being
           the
           Center
           of
           a
           Soveraignty
           ,
           where
           a
           Court
           is
           kept
           ;
           so
           the
           Taxes
           that
           the
           Popes
           fetch
           from
           thence
           are
           so
           considerable
           ,
           that
           he
           draws
           much
           more
           from
           this
           place
           of
           Liberty
           ;
           than
           from
           those
           where
           his
           Authority
           is
           unlimited
           and
           absolute
           ,
           but
           that
           are
           by
           those
           means
           almost
           quite
           abandoned
           :
           for
           the
           greatness
           of
           a
           Prince
           or
           State
           rising
           from
           the
           numbers
           of
           the
           Subjects
           ,
           those
           Maxims
           that
           re●ain
           the
           Subjects
           ,
           and
           that
           draw
           Strangers
           to
           come
           among
           them
           ,
           are
           certainly
           the
           truest
           Maxims
           for
           advancing
           the
           greatness
           of
           the
           Master
           .
           And
           I
           could
           not
           but
           with
           much
           scorn
           observe
           the
           folly
           of
           some
           Frenchmen
           ,
           who
           made
           use
           of
           this
           Argument
           to
           shew
           the
           Greatness
           of
           their
           Nation
           ,
           that
           one
           found
           many
           Frenchmen
           in
           all
           places
           to
           which
           one
           could
           come
           ,
           whereas
           there
           were
           no
           English
           nor
           Dutch
           ,
           no
           Switzers
           ,
           and
           very
           few
           Germans
           ;
           but
           ●his
           is
           just
           contrary
           to
           the
           right
           consequence
           that
           ought
           to
           be
           drawn
           from
           this
           observation
           .
           It
           is
           certain
           ,
           that
           few
           leave
           their
           Country
           ,
           and
           go
           to
           settle
           elsewhere
           ,
           if
           they
           are
           not
           pressed
           with
           so
           much
           uneasiness
           at
           home
           ,
           that
           they
           cannot
           well
           live
           among
           their
           Friends
           and
           Kindred
           ;
           so
           that
           a
           
             mild
             Government
          
           drives
           out
           no
           swarms
           :
           whereas
           it
           is
           the
           sure
           mark
           of
           a
           
             severe
             Government
          
           that
           weakens
           it self
           ,
           when
           many
           of
           the
           Subjects
           find
           it
           so
           hard
           to
           subsist
           at
           home
           ,
           that
           they
           are
           forced
           to
           seek
           
           that
           abroad
           ,
           which
           they
           would
           much
           rather
           do
           in
           thei●
           own
           Country
           ,
           if
           Impositions
           and
           other
           Severities
           ,
           di●
           not
           force
           them
           to
           change
           their
           Habitations
           .
        
         
           But
           to
           return
           to
           the
           Wealth
           of
           Bologna
           ,
           it
           appea●●
           in
           every
           Corner
           of
           the
           Town
           ,
           and
           all
           ●ound
           it
           ,
           tho
           i●scituation
           is
           not
           very
           fa●ourable
           ;
           for
           it
           lyes
           at
           the
           foot
           of
           the
           Appenins
           ,
           on
           the
           North-side
           ,
           and
           is
           extream
           cold
           in
           Winter
           .
           The
           Houses
           are
           built
           as
           at
           Padua
           and
           Ber●
           ,
           so
           that
           one
           walks
           all
           the
           Town
           over
           ,
           covered
           under
           Pi●zza's
           ;
           but
           the
           walks
           here
           are
           both
           higher
           and
           larger
           than
           any
           were
           else
           ,
           there
           are
           many
           Noble
           Pala●es
           all
           over
           the
           Town
           ,
           and
           the
           Churches
           and
           Convents
           are
           incredibly
           rich
           :
           within
           the
           Town
           ,
           the
           richest
           are
           the
           Domini●ans
           ,
           which
           is
           the
           chief
           House
           of
           the
           Order
           ,
           where
           their
           Founders
           Body
           is
           laid
           in
           one
           of
           the
           best
           Chapp●●●
           of
           Italy
           :
           and
           next
           to
           them
           are
           the
           Franciscans
           ,
           the
           Servites
           ,
           the
           Iesuites
           ,
           and
           the
           
             Cannons
             Regular
          
           of
           
             St.
             Salvator
          
           .
           In
           this
           last
           there
           is
           a
           Scrowl
           of
           the
           
             Hebre●
             Bible
          
           ,
           which
           tho
           it
           is
           not
           the
           tenth
           part
           of
           the
           Bible
           ,
           they
           fancy
           to
           be
           the
           whole
           Bible
           :
           and
           they
           were
           made
           believe
           by
           some
           Iew
           ,
           that
           hath
           no
           doubt
           sold
           it
           at
           a
           high
           rate
           ,
           that
           it
           was
           written
           by
           Ezra's
           own
           hand
           ;
           and
           this
           hath
           past
           long
           for
           current
           :
           but
           the
           Manuscript
           is
           only
           a
           fine
           Copy
           ,
           like
           those
           that
           the
           Iews
           use
           in
           their
           Synagogues
           ,
           that
           may
           be
           perhaps
           three
           or
           four
           hundred
           Years
           old
           :
           that
           part
           of
           it
           on
           which
           I
           cast
           my
           eye
           ,
           was
           the
           
             Book
             of
             Esther
          
           ;
           so
           by
           the
           bulk
           of
           the
           Scrowl
           ,
           I
           judged
           it
           to
           be
           the
           collection
           of
           those
           small
           books
           of
           the
           
             Old
             Te●●●ment
          
           that
           the
           Iews
           set
           after
           the
           Law
           ;
           but
           those
           of
           the
           House
           fancy
           they
           have
           a
           great
           treasure
           in
           it
           ,
           and
           perhap●
           such
           Iews
           as
           have
           seen
           it
           are
           willing
           to
           laugh
           at
           their
           ignorance
           ,
           and
           so
           suffer
           them
           to
           go
           on
           in
           their
           Error
           .
           The
           chief
           Church
           in
           the
           Town
           is
           
             St.
             Petrone's
          
           ,
           and
           there
           one
           sees
           the
           curious
           and
           exact
           Merid●onal-line
           ,
           which
           th●●
           rare
           Astronomer
           Cassini
           laid
           along
           a
           great
           part
           of
           the
           Pavement
           in
           a
           
             ●ras●
             Circle
          
           :
           it
           marks
           the
           true
           point
           of
           mid●ay
           from
           June
           to
           Ianuary
           ,
           and
           is
           one
           of
           the
           best
           Performances
           that
           perhaps
           the
           World
           ever
           saw
           .
           In
           the
           grea●
           
           square
           before
           the
           Church
           ,
           on
           the
           one
           side
           of
           whi●h
           is
           the
           
             Legates
             Palace
          
           ,
           among
           other
           Statues
           one
           surprized
           me
           much
           ,
           it
           was
           
             Pope
             Ioans
          
           ,
           which
           is
           so
           named
           by
           the
           people
           of
           the
           Town
           ;
           it
           is
           true
           ,
           the
           learned
           men
           say
           ▪
           it
           is
           the
           Statue
           of
           
             Pope
             Nicolas
          
           the
           IV.
           who
           had
           indeed
           a
           youthly
           and
           womanish
           face
           .
           But
           as
           I
           looked
           at
           this
           Statue
           very
           attentively
           ,
           through
           a
           little
           prospect
           that
           I
           carried
           with
           me
           ,
           it
           appeared
           plainly
           to
           have
           the
           face
           of
           a
           young
           Woman
           ,
           and
           was
           very
           unlike
           that
           of
           
             Pope
             Nicolas
          
           the
           IV.
           which
           is
           in
           
             St.
             Maria
             Maggiore
          
           at
           Rome
           :
           For
           the
           Statue
           of
           that
           Pope
           ,
           tho
           it
           hath
           no
           beard
           ,
           yet
           hath
           an
           age
           in
           it
           ,
           that
           is
           very
           mu●h
           different
           from
           the
           Statue
           at
           Bologna
           .
           I
           do
           not
           build
           any
           thing
           on
           this
           Statue
           ;
           for
           I
           do
           not
           believe
           that
           Story
           at
           all
           ;
           and
           I
           my self
           saw
           in
           England
           a
           Manuscript
           of
           
             Martinus
             Polonus
          
           ,
           who
           is
           one
           of
           the
           ancient
           Authors
           of
           this
           matter
           ,
           which
           did
           not
           seem
           to
           be
           written
           long
           after
           the
           Authors
           time
           ,
           in
           it
           this
           Story
           is
           not
           in
           the
           Text
           ,
           but
           is
           added
           on
           the
           margin
           by
           another
           hand
           .
           On
           the
           Hill
           above
           Bologna
           stands
           the
           Monastery
           of
           
             St
             Michael
             in
             Bosco
          
           ,
           which
           hath
           a
           most
           charming
           scituation
           and
           prospect
           ,
           and
           is
           one
           of
           the
           best
           Mon●steries
           in
           Italy
           ;
           it
           hath
           many
           Courts
           ,
           and
           one
           that
           is
           Cloistered
           ,
           and
           is
           Octangular
           ;
           whi●h
           is
           so
           nobly
           painted
           in
           Fresco
           ,
           that
           it
           is
           great
           pity
           to
           see
           such
           work
           exposed
           to
           the
           Air
           :
           All
           w●s
           retou●hed
           by
           the
           famous
           
             Guido
             Reni
          
           ,
           yet
           it
           is
           now
           again
           much
           decayed
           :
           The
           Dormitory
           is
           very
           Magnifi●ent
           ;
           the
           Chappel
           is
           little
           ,
           but
           very
           fine
           ;
           and
           the
           Stalls
           are
           richly
           carved
           .
           On
           the
           other
           side
           of
           Bologna
           ,
           in
           the
           Bottom
           ,
           the
           Carthusians
           have
           also
           a
           very
           rich
           Monastery
           :
           Four
           miles
           from
           Bologna
           there
           is
           a
           Madona
           of
           Saint
           Lukes
           ;
           and
           because
           many
           go
           thither
           in
           great
           Devotion
           ,
           there
           is
           a
           Porti●o
           Building
           ,
           which
           is
           already
           carried
           on
           almost
           half
           way
           ;
           It
           is
           walled
           towards
           the
           North
           ,
           but
           stands
           on
           Pillars
           to
           the
           South
           ,
           and
           is
           about
           twelve
           foot
           broad
           ,
           an●
           fifteen
           foot
           high
           ;
           it
           is
           carried
           on
           very
           vigorously
           ;
           for
           in
           eigh●
           or
           ten
           years
           the
           half
           is
           built
           ,
           so
           that
           in
           a
           little
           time
           ,
           the
           whole
           
           will
           very
           probably
           be
           finished
           ;
           and
           this
           may
           prove
           the
           beginning
           of
           many
           such
           like
           Portico's
           in
           I●aly
           ;
           for
           things
           of
           this
           kind
           want
           only
           a
           beginning
           ,
           and
           when
           they
           are
           once
           set
           on
           foot
           ,
           they
           do
           quickly
           spread
           themselves
           in
           a
           Cou●try
           that
           is
           so
           intirely
           subdued
           by
           Superstition
           ,
           and
           the
           Artifices
           of
           their
           Priests
           .
           In
           Bologna
           they
           reckon
           there
           are
           seventy
           thousand
           persons
           .
           I
           saw
           not
           one
           of
           the
           chief
           Glories
           of
           this
           place
           ;
           for
           the
           famous
           Malphigius
           was
           out
           of
           Town
           while
           I
           was
           there
           .
           I
           saw
           a
           Play
           there
           ,
           but
           the
           P●●s●
           was
           so
           bad
           ,
           the
           Farces
           so
           rude
           ,
           and
           all
           was
           so
           ill
           acted
           ,
           that
           I
           was
           not
           a
           little
           amazed
           to
           see
           the
           Company
           expres●
           so
           great
           a
           Satisfaction
           in
           that
           which
           would
           have
           been
           hiss'd
           off
           the
           stage
           either
           in
           England
           or
           Fran●e
           .
           F●om
           B●logna
           we
           go
           eight
           miles
           in
           a
           Plain
           ,
           and
           then
           we
           ingage
           into
           that
           range
           of
           Hills
           that
           carry
           the
           name
           of
           Appen●●s
           ,
           tho
           that
           is
           strictly
           given
           only
           to
           one
           that
           is
           the
           highest
           :
           All
           the
           way
           to
           Florence
           this
           track
           of
           Hills
           continues
           ,
           th●●
           there
           are
           several
           bottoms
           ,
           and
           some
           considerable
           little
           Towns
           in
           them
           ,
           but
           all
           is
           up
           hill
           and
           down-hill
           ,
           an●
           Florence
           it self
           ,
           is
           just
           at
           the
           bottom
           of
           the
           last
           Hill.
           The
           high-ways
           all
           along
           these
           Hills
           are
           kept
           in
           so
           very
           goo●
           case
           ,
           that
           in
           few
           of
           the
           best
           inhabited
           Countrys
           doth
           one
           find
           the
           High-wayes
           so
           well
           maintained
           ,
           as
           in
           those
           forsaken
           Mountains
           :
           but
           this
           is
           so
           great
           a
           Passage
           ,
           that
           〈◊〉
           that
           are
           concerned
           in
           it
           ,
           find
           their
           account
           ,
           in
           the
           expence
           they
           lay
           out
           upon
           it
           .
           On
           the
           last
           of
           these
           Hills
           ,
           tho
           in
           a
           little
           bottom
           ,
           in
           the
           midst
           of
           a
           Hill
           ,
           stands
           Pratoli●
           ,
           one
           of
           the
           great
           
             Dukes
             Palaces
          
           ,
           where
           the
           retreat
           〈◊〉
           Summer
           must
           be
           very
           agreeable
           ;
           for
           the
           Air
           of
           thos●
           Mountains
           is
           extream
           thin
           and
           pure
           .
           The
           Gardens
           in
           Italy
           are
           made
           at
           a
           great
           cost
           ;
           the
           Statues
           and
           Fountains
           a●●
           very
           rich
           and
           noble
           ;
           the
           Grounds
           are
           well
           laid
           out
           ;
           a●●
           the
           Walks
           are
           long
           and
           even
           :
           But
           as
           they
           have
           no
           G●●vel
           ,
           to
           give
           them
           those
           firm
           and
           beautiful
           walks
           that
           we
           have
           in
           England
           ,
           so
           the
           constant
           greenness
           of
           the
           〈◊〉
           doth
           so
           much
           please
           them
           ,
           that
           they
           ,
           preferring
           the
           sigh●
           to
           the
           smell
           ,
           have
           their
           Gardens
           so
           high
           sented
           by
           〈◊〉
           made
           with
           them
           ,
           that
           there
           is
           no
           pleasure
           to
           walk
           〈◊〉
           
           them
           ;
           they
           also
           lay
           their
           walks
           so
           between
           Hedges
           ,
           that
           one
           is
           much
           confined
           in
           them
           .
           I
           saw
           first
           in
           a
           Gard●n
           at
           Vin●enza
           ,
           that
           which
           I
           found
           afterwards
           in
           many
           Gardens
           in
           Italy
           ,
           which
           was
           extream
           convenient
           ,
           there
           wen●
           a
           course
           of
           Water
           ●ound
           about
           the
           Walls
           ,
           about
           a
           foot
           from
           the
           ground
           is
           a
           channel
           of
           stone
           ,
           that
           went
           along
           the
           side
           of
           the
           Wall
           ;
           and
           in
           this
           there
           were
           holes
           so
           made
           ,
           that
           a
           pipe
           of
           white
           Iron
           or
           Wood
           put
           to
           them
           ,
           conveyed
           the
           Water
           to
           such
           plants
           ,
           as
           in
           dry
           sea●on
           ,
           needed
           watring
           ,
           and
           a
           Cock
           set
           the
           Water
           a
           running
           in
           this
           course
           ,
           so
           that
           without
           the
           trouble
           of
           carrying
           Water
           ,
           one
           person
           could
           easily
           manage
           the
           watring
           of
           a
           great
           
             Garden
             .
             Floren●e
          
           is
           a
           beautiful
           and
           noble
           Town
           ,
           full
           of
           great
           Palaces
           ,
           rich
           Churches
           ,
           and
           stately
           Convents
           .
           The
           streets
           are
           paved
           in
           imitation
           of
           the
           old
           
             Roman
             High-wayes
          
           ,
           with
           great
           S●one
           ,
           bigger
           than
           our
           common
           pavement
           Stone
           ,
           but
           much
           thicker
           ,
           which
           are
           so
           hollowed
           ,
           in
           their
           joynings
           to
           one
           another
           ,
           that
           horses
           find
           fastning
           enough
           to
           their
           feet
           :
           There
           are
           many
           Statues
           and
           Fountains
           in
           the
           streets
           ,
           so
           that
           in
           every
           corner
           one
           meets
           with
           many
           agreeable
           Objects
           .
           I
           will
           not
           entertain
           you
           with
           a
           description
           of
           the
           
             great
             Dukes
             Palace
          
           and
           Gardens
           ,
           or
           of
           the
           old
           Palace
           ,
           and
           the
           G●llery
           that
           joyns
           to
           it
           ,
           and
           of
           the
           vast
           Collection
           of
           
             Pictures
             ,
             Statues
             ,
             Cabinets
          
           ,
           and
           other
           Curiosities
           ,
           that
           must
           needs
           amaze
           every
           one
           that
           sees
           them
           :
           the
           Plate
           ,
           and
           in
           particular
           ,
           the
           Gold
           Plate
           ,
           and
           the
           great
           Coach
           ,
           are
           all
           such
           extrao●dinary
           things
           ,
           that
           they
           would
           require
           a
           very
           copious
           description
           ▪
           if
           that
           had
           not
           been
           done
           so
           often
           ,
           that
           it
           were
           to
           very
           little
           purpose
           to
           Copy
           what
           others
           have
           said
           :
           and
           these
           thi●gs
           are
           so
           exactly
           seen
           by
           every
           Traveller
           ,
           that
           I
           can
           say
           nothing
           that
           is
           more
           particular
           of
           these
           subjects
           ,
           ●han
           you
           will
           find
           in
           the
           common
           Itinerarys
           of
           all
           Travellers
           .
           The
           great
           Dome
           is
           a
           magnificent
           building
           ,
           but
           the
           Frontispiece
           to
           the
           great
           Gate
           is
           not
           yet
           made
           .
           The
           Cupulo
           ,
           is
           after
           
             St.
             Peters
          
           ,
           the
           greatest
           and
           highest
           that
           I
           saw
           in
           Italy
           ;
           it
           is
           three
           hundred
           foot
           high
           ,
           and
           of
           a
           vast
           compass
           ;
           and
           the
           whole
           Architecture
           of
           this
           Fabrick
           is
           very
           
           singular
           ,
           as
           well
           as
           regular
           .
           Only
           that
           which
           was
           intended
           to
           ad●
           to
           its
           Beauty
           ,
           lessened
           it
           very
           much
           in
           my
           thoughts
           :
           for
           the
           Walls
           that
           are
           all
           of
           Marble
           ,
           being
           of
           white
           and
           black
           Marble
           ,
           laid
           in
           different
           figures
           and
           orders
           ,
           looked
           too
           like
           a
           Livery
           ,
           and
           had
           not
           that
           air
           of
           Nobleness
           which
           in
           my
           opinion
           becomes
           so
           glorious
           a
           Fabr●●k
           .
           The
           Baptistery
           ,
           that
           stan●s
           before
           it
           ,
           was
           a
           Noble
           Heathen
           Temple
           ;
           i●s
           Gates
           of
           brass
           ,
           are
           the
           best
           of
           ●h●t
           sort
           that
           are
           in
           the
           World
           :
           There
           are
           so
           many
           History
           ,
           so
           well
           represented
           in
           
             Bas
             Reliefs
          
           in
           them
           ,
           with
           so
           much
           Exactness
           ,
           the
           Wo●k
           is
           so
           natural
           ,
           and
           yet
           so
           fine
           ▪
           that
           a
           curious
           man
           could
           find
           entertainement
           for
           many
           dayes
           ,
           if
           he
           would
           examine
           the
           three
           Gates
           of
           this
           Temple
           with
           a
           critical
           exactness
           .
           The
           
             Annunciata
             ,
             St.
             Marks
             ,
             St.
             Croce
             ,
          
           and
           
             St.
             Maria
             Novella
          
           ,
           are
           Churches
           of
           great
           Beauty
           and
           vast
           Riches
           ;
           but
           the
           Church
           and
           Chappel
           of
           
             S.
             Laurence
          
           exceeds
           them
           all
           ,
           as
           much
           in
           the
           Riches
           within
           ,
           as
           it
           is
           inferiour
           to
           them
           in
           the
           outside
           ,
           which
           is
           quite
           flea'd
           ,
           (
           if
           I
           may
           so
           speak
           )
           but
           on
           design
           to
           give
           it
           a
           rich
           out-side
           of
           Marble
           .
           In
           a
           Chappel
           within
           this
           Church
           ,
           the
           Bodies
           of
           the
           
             great
             Dukes
          
           lye
           deposited
           :
           till
           the
           famous
           Chappel
           is
           finished
           ,
           But
           I
           was
           much
           scandalized
           to
           see
           Statues
           with
           Nudities
           here
           ,
           which
           I
           do
           not
           remember
           to
           have
           seen
           any
           where
           else
           in
           Churches
           .
           I
           will
           not
           offer
           at
           a
           description
           of
           the
           Glorious
           Chappel
           ,
           which
           as
           it
           is
           without
           doubt
           ,
           the
           richest
           piece
           of
           building
           that
           perhaps
           the
           World
           ever
           saw
           ,
           so
           it
           goes
           on
           so
           slowly
           ,
           that
           tho
           there
           are
           alwayes
           many
           at
           work
           ,
           ●
           yet
           it
           doth
           not
           seem
           to
           advance
           proportionably
           to
           the
           number
           of
           the
           hands
           that
           are
           imployed
           in
           it
           .
           Among
           the
           Statues
           that
           are
           to
           be
           in
           it
           ,
           there
           is
           one
           of
           the
           Virgin
           's
           ,
           made
           by
           
             Michael
             Angelo
          
           ,
           which
           represents
           her
           grief
           at
           the
           Passion
           of
           her
           Blessed
           Son
           ,
           that
           hath
           the
           most
           life
           in
           it
           of
           all
           the
           Statues
           I
           ever
           saw
           .
           But
           the
           famous
           Li●rary
           ,
           that
           belongs
           to
           this
           Convent
           ,
           took
           up
           more
           of
           my
           time
           than
           all
           the
           other
           Curiosities
           of
           Florence
           ;
           for
           here
           is
           a
           collection
           of
           many
           Manuscripts
           ,
           most
           of
           them
           are
           Greek
           ,
           that
           were
           gathered
           together
           by
           
             Pope
             Clement
          
           the
           VII
           and
           give●
           
           to
           his
           Country
           :
           there
           are
           very
           few
           Printed
           Books
           mixed
           with
           them
           ;
           and
           those
           Books
           that
           are
           there
           ,
           are
           so
           rare
           ,
           that
           they
           are
           almost
           as
           curious
           as
           Manuscrips
           .
           I
           saw
           some
           of
           
             Virg●ls
             P●ems
          
           in
           old
           Capitals
           .
           There
           is
           a
           Manuscript
           ,
           in
           which
           some
           parts
           both
           of
           Tacitus
           and
           Apuleius
           are
           written
           ,
           and
           in
           one
           place
           ,
           one
           in
           a
           different
           hand
           had
           writ
           ,
           that
           he
           had
           compared
           those
           Manuscripts
           ,
           and
           he
           adds
           a
           date
           to
           this
           in
           Olibrius's
           time
           ,
           which
           is
           about
           twelve
           hundred
           Years
           ago
           .
           I
           found
           some
           dipthongs
           in
           it
           cast
           into
           one
           Letter
           ,
           which
           surprized
           me
           ;
           for
           I
           thought
           that
           way
           of
           writing
           them
           had
           not
           been
           so
           ancient
           :
           but
           that
           which
           pleased
           me
           most
           was
           ,
           that
           the
           Library-keeper
           assured
           me
           ,
           that
           one
           had
           lately
           found
           
             the
             famous
             Epistle
             of
             St.
             Chrysostome
             to
             Cesarius
             in
             Greek
             ,
          
           in
           the
           end
           of
           a
           Volume
           full
           of
           other
           things
           ,
           and
           not
           among
           the
           Manuscripts
           of
           that
           
             Fathers
             Books
          
           ;
           of
           which
           they
           have
           a
           great
           many
           .
           He
           thought
           he
           remembred
           well
           the
           place
           where
           the
           Book
           stood
           ;
           so
           we
           turned
           over
           all
           the
           Books
           that
           stood
           near
           it
           ,
           but
           I
           found
           it
           not
           :
           he
           promised
           to
           look
           it
           out
           for
           me
           ,
           if
           I
           came
           back
           that
           way
           :
           But
           I
           changing
           my
           design
           ,
           and
           going
           back
           another
           way
           ,
           could
           not
           see
           the
           bottom
           of
           this
           .
           It
           is
           true
           ,
           the
           famous
           Magliabecchi
           ,
           who
           is
           the
           
             Great
             Dukes
          
           Library-keeper
           ,
           and
           is
           a
           person
           of
           most
           wonderful
           Civility
           ,
           and
           full
           of
           Candor
           ,
           as
           well
           as
           he
           is
           learned
           beyond
           imagination
           ,
           assured
           me
           ,
           that
           this
           could
           be
           no
           other
           than
           a
           mistake
           of
           the
           Library-keepers
           ;
           he
           said
           ,
           such
           a
           discovery
           could
           not
           have
           been
           made
           ,
           without
           making
           so
           much
           noise
           ;
           that
           he
           must
           have
           heard
           of
           it
           .
           He
           added
           ,
           there
           was
           not
           one
           man
           in
           Florence
           ,
           that
           either
           understood
           Greek
           ,
           or
           that
           examined
           Manuscripts
           ;
           so
           that
           he
           assured
           me
           ,
           I
           could
           not
           build
           on
           what
           an
           ignorant
           Library-keeper
           had
           told
           me
           :
           So
           I
           set
           down
           this
           matter
           as
           I
           found
           it
           ,
           without
           building
           much
           on
           it
           .
           Florence
           is
           much
           sunk
           from
           what
           is
           was
           ;
           for
           they
           do
           not
           reckon
           ,
           that
           there
           are
           above
           fifty
           thousand
           ●ouls
           in
           it
           :
           and
           the
           other
           States
           ,
           that
           were
           once
           great
           Republicks
           ,
           such
           as
           Siena
           and
           Pisa
           ,
           while
           they
           retained
           their
           Liberty
           ,
           are
           now
           shrunk
           almost
           into
           nothing
           :
           It
           is
           certain
           ,
           that
           all
           
           three
           together
           ,
           are
           now
           not
           so
           numerous
           ,
           as
           any
           one
           of
           them
           was
           two
           hundred
           years
           ago
           .
           Legorn
           is
           full
           of
           pe●ple
           ;
           and
           all
           round
           Florence
           there
           are
           a
           great
           many
           Villages
           ;
           but
           as
           one
           goes
           over
           Tuscany
           ,
           it
           appears
           so
           dispeopled
           ,
           that
           one
           cannot
           but
           wonder
           to
           find
           a
           Country
           ,
           that
           hath
           been
           a
           Scene
           of
           so
           much
           Action
           ,
           and
           so
           many
           Wars
           ,
           now
           so
           forsaken
           ,
           and
           so
           poor
           ,
           and
           that
           in
           many
           places
           the
           Soil
           is
           quite
           neglected
           for
           want
           of
           hands
           to
           cultivate
           it
           ;
           and
           in
           other
           places
           ,
           where
           there
           are
           more
           people
           ,
           they
           look
           so
           poor
           ,
           and
           their
           Houses
           are
           such
           miserable
           Ruins
           ,
           that
           it
           is
           scarce
           accountable
           ,
           how
           there
           should
           be
           so
           much
           Poverty
           in
           so
           rich
           a
           Country
           ,
           which
           is
           all
           over
           full
           of
           Beggars
           :
           and
           here
           the
           stile
           of
           Begging
           was
           a
           li●tle
           altered
           from
           what
           I
           found
           it
           in
           Lombardy
           ;
           for
           whereas
           there
           they
           begged
           for
           the
           sake
           of
           
             St.
             Anthony
          
           ,
           here
           all
           begged
           for
           
             the
             Souls
             that
             were
             in
             Purgatory
          
           ;
           and
           this
           was
           the
           stile
           in
           all
           the
           other
           parts
           of
           Italy
           ,
           through
           which
           I
           passed
           .
           In
           short
           ;
           the
           dispeopling
           of
           Tuscany
           ,
           and
           most
           of
           the
           
             Principalities
             of
             Italy
          
           ,
           but
           chiefly
           of
           the
           
             Popes
             Dominions
          
           ,
           which
           are
           more
           abandoned
           than
           any
           other
           part
           of
           Italy
           ,
           seemed
           to
           flow
           from
           nothing
           but
           the
           Severity
           of
           the
           Government
           ;
           and
           the
           great
           Decay
           of
           Trade
           :
           For
           the
           greatest
           Trade
           of
           Italy
           being
           in
           Silk
           ,
           the
           vast
           Importation
           of
           Silks
           that
           the
           
             East-India
             Companies
          
           bring
           into
           Europe
           ,
           hath
           quite
           ruined
           all
           those
           that
           deal
           in
           this
           Manufacture
           :
           Yet
           this
           is
           not
           the
           chief
           Cause
           of
           the
           dispeopling
           of
           those
           rich
           Countrys
           ;
           the
           Severity
           of
           the
           Tax
           ▪
           is
           the
           true
           Reason
           :
           notwithstanding
           all
           that
           Decay
           of
           Trade
           ,
           the
           Taxes
           are
           still
           kept
           up
           .
           Beside
           this
           ,
           the
           vast
           Wealth
           of
           the
           Convents
           ,
           where
           the
           only
           people
           of
           Italy
           are
           to
           be
           found
           ,
           that
           live
           not
           only
           at
           their
           Ease
           ,
           but
           in
           great
           plenty
           and
           Luxury
           ,
           makes
           many
           forsake
           all
           sort
           of
           Industry
           ,
           and
           seek
           for
           a
           retreat
           in
           one
           of
           those
           Seats
           of
           Pleasure
           ;
           so
           that
           the
           People
           do
           not
           increase
           fa●t
           enough
           to
           make
           a
           new
           race
           to
           come
           instead
           of
           those
           ,
           whom
           a
           hard
           Government
           drives
           away
           .
           It
           must
           needs
           surprize
           an
           unattentive
           Traveller
           ,
           to
           see
           not
           only
           the
           
             Venetian
             Territory
          
           ,
           which
           is
           indeed
           a
           rich
           Country
           ,
           but
           
           the
           Bailiages
           of
           the
           Switzers
           ,
           and
           the
           Coast
           of
           Genoa
           so
           full
           of
           People
           ,
           when
           Tuscany
           ,
           the
           Patrimony
           ,
           and
           the
           
             Kingdom
             of
             Naples
          
           ,
           have
           so
           few
           Inhabitants
           .
           In
           the
           Coast
           of
           Genoa
           ,
           there
           is
           for
           many
           miles
           as
           it
           were
           a
           constant
           tract
           of
           Towns
           and
           Villages
           ,
           and
           all
           those
           are
           well
           peopled
           ,
           tho
           they
           have
           scarce
           any
           Soil
           at
           all
           ,
           lying
           under
           the
           Mountains
           ,
           that
           are
           very
           barren
           ,
           and
           that
           expose
           them
           to
           a
           most
           uneasy
           Sun
           ;
           and
           that
           they
           lie
           upon
           a
           boistrous
           Sea
           ;
           that
           is
           almost
           alwayes
           in
           a
           Storm
           ,
           and
           that
           affords
           very
           few
           fish
           :
           and
           yet
           the
           Gentleness
           of
           the
           Government
           draws
           such
           multitudes
           thither
           ,
           and
           those
           are
           so
           full
           of
           Wealth
           ,
           that
           Mony
           goes
           at
           
             two
             per
             cent
          
           .
           But
           on
           the
           other
           hand
           ,
           to
           ballance
           this
           a
           little
           ,
           so
           strange
           and
           wild
           a
           thing
           is
           the
           nature
           of
           Man
           ,
           at
           least
           of
           Italians
           ,
           that
           I
           was
           told
           ,
           that
           the
           worst
           people
           of
           all
           Italy
           are
           the
           Genoeses
           ,
           and
           the
           most
           generally
           corrupted
           in
           their
           Morals
           ,
           as
           to
           all
           sorts
           of
           Vice
           ;
           so
           that
           tho
           a
           
             severe
             Co●ernment
          
           and
           Slavery
           ,
           are
           contrary
           to
           the
           nature
           of
           man
           ,
           and
           to
           human
           Society
           ,
           to
           Iustice
           and
           Equity
           ,
           and
           to
           that
           essential
           Equality
           that
           Nature
           hath
           made
           among
           men
           ;
           yet
           on
           the
           other
           hand
           ,
           all
           men
           cannot
           bear
           that
           Ease
           and
           Liberty
           that
           become
           the
           Human
           Nature
           .
           The
           superstition
           of
           Italy
           ,
           and
           the
           great
           wast
           of
           Wealth
           that
           one
           sees
           in
           their
           Chur●hes
           ,
           particularly
           those
           Prodigious
           Masses
           of
           Plate
           ,
           with
           which
           their
           Altars
           are
           covered
           on
           Holydays
           ,
           doth
           also
           sink
           their
           Trade
           extreamly
           ;
           for
           Silver
           ,
           being
           in
           Commerce
           ,
           what
           blood
           is
           in
           the
           body
           ,
           when
           so
           much
           of
           that
           is
           dead
           ,
           and
           circulates
           no
           more
           ;
           it
           is
           no
           wonder
           if
           such
           an
           extravasa●ion
           (
           if
           I
           may
           use
           so
           long
           and
           so
           hard
           a
           word
           )
           of
           Silver
           ,
           occasions
           a
           great
           Deadness
           in
           Trade
           .
           I
           had
           almost
           forgot
           one
           remark
           ,
           that
           I
           made
           in
           the
           last
           Hill
           of
           the
           Ap●enins
           ,
           just
           above
           Florence
           ,
           that
           I
           never
           saw
           such
           tall
           and
           big
           Cypresses
           any
           where
           as
           grew
           over
           all
           that
           Hill
           ,
           which
           seemed
           a
           little
           strange
           ,
           that
           Tree
           being
           apt
           to
           be
           starved
           by
           a
           cold
           Winter
           among
           us
           ,
           and
           there
           the
           Winters
           are
           severe
           .
           All
           the
           
           ways
           in
           Tuscany
           are
           very
           rugged
           ,
           except
           on
           the
           side●
           of
           the
           Arne
           .
           But
           the
           uneasiness
           of
           the
           Road
           is
           much
           qualified
           by
           the
           great
           Care
           that
           is
           had
           of
           the
           Highways
           ,
           which
           are
           all
           in
           very
           good
           case
           :
           The
           Inns
           are
           wretched
           ;
           and
           ill
           furnished
           both
           for
           Lodging
           and
           Diet.
           This
           is
           the
           plague
           of
           all
           Italy
           ,
           when
           once
           one
           hath
           passed
           the
           Appen●ns
           ;
           for
           ,
           except
           in
           the
           great
           Towns
           ,
           one
           really
           suffers
           so
           much
           that
           way
           ,
           that
           the
           Pleasure
           of
           Travelling
           is
           much
           abated
           by
           the
           Inconveniences
           that
           one
           meets
           in
           every
           Stage
           through
           which
           he
           passes
           .
           I
           am
        
         
           
             SIR
             ,
             Yours
             .
          
        
      
       
         
         
           THE
           FOURTH
           LETTER
           .
        
         
           
             
               From
               Rome
            
             ,
             
               the
               8th
               of
               December
               ,
               1685.
               
            
          
        
         
           I
           Am
           now
           in
           the
           last
           stage
           of
           my
           Voyage
           over
           Italy
           ;
           for
           since
           my
           last
           from
           Florence
           ,
           I
           have
           not
           only
           got
           hither
           ,
           but
           have
           been
           in
           Naples
           ;
           and
           have
           now
           satisfied
           my
           Curiosity
           so
           fully
           ,
           that
           I
           intend
           to
           leave
           this
           place
           within
           a
           day
           or
           two
           ,
           and
           go
           to
           
             Civita
             vecchia
          
           ,
           and
           from
           thence
           by
           Sea
           to
           Marseilles
           ;
           and
           so
           avoid
           an
           unpleasant
           Winters
           Journey
           over
           the
           Alps.
           It
           is
           true
           ;
           I
           lose
           the
           sight
           of
           
             Turin
             ,
             Genoa
          
           ,
           and
           some
           other
           Courts
           :
           but
           tho
           I
           am
           told
           ,
           these
           deserve
           well
           the
           pains
           of
           the
           Journey
           ;
           yet
           when
           one
           rises
           from
           a
           great
           meal
           ,
           no
           Delicacies
           ,
           how
           much
           soever
           they
           might
           tempt
           him
           at
           another
           time
           ,
           can
           provoke
           his
           appetite
           :
           So
           I
           confess
           freely
           ,
           that
           the
           sight
           of
           Naples
           and
           Rome
           have
           so
           set
           my
           stomach
           that
           way
           ,
           that
           the
           Curiosity
           of
           seeing
           new
           places
           is
           now
           very
           low
           with
           me
           ;
           and
           indeed
           ,
           these
           that
           I
           have
           of
           late
           seen
           are
           such
           ,
           that
           places
           which
           at
           another
           time
           would
           please
           me
           much
           ,
           would
           now
           make
           but
           a
           slight
           and
           cold
           Impression
           .
        
         
           All
           the
           way
           from
           Florence
           ,
           through
           the
           
             Great
             Dukes
          
           Country
           ,
           looked
           so
           sad
           ,
           that
           I
           concluded
           ,
           it
           must
           be
           the
           most
           dispeopled
           of
           all
           Italy
           :
           but
           indeed
           ,
           I
           changed
           my
           note
           when
           I
           came
           into
           the
           
             Popes
             T●rritories
          
           ,
           at
           
             Pont
             Centino
          
           ,
           where
           there
           was
           a
           rich
           bottom
           ,
           all
           uncultivated
           ,
           and
           not
           so
           much
           as
           stocked
           with
           Cattle
           ,
           But
           as
           I
           passed
           from
           
             M.
             Fiascone
          
           to
           Viterbo
           ,
           this
           appeared
           yet
           more
           amazing
           ;
           for
           a
           vast
           Champian
           Country
           lay
           almost
           
           quite
           deserted
           .
           And
           that
           wide
           Town
           ,
           which
           is
           of
           so
           great
           a
           compass
           ,
           hath
           yet
           so
           few
           Inhabitants
           ,
           and
           those
           look
           so
           poor
           and
           miserable
           ,
           that
           the
           people
           in
           the
           ordinary
           Towns
           in
           Scotland
           ,
           and
           in
           its
           worst
           Places
           ,
           make
           a
           better
           appearance
           .
           When
           I
           was
           within
           a
           days
           Journey
           of
           Rome
           ,
           I
           fancied
           that
           the
           Neighbourhood
           of
           so
           great
           a
           City
           must
           mend
           the
           matter
           ;
           but
           I
           was
           much
           disappointed
           ;
           for
           a
           Soil
           that
           was
           so
           rich
           ,
           and
           lay
           so
           sweetly
           ,
           that
           it
           far
           exceeded
           any
           thing
           I
           ever
           saw
           out
           of
           Italy
           ,
           had
           neither
           Inhabitants
           in
           it
           ,
           nor
           Cattel
           upon
           it
           ,
           to
           the
           tenth
           part
           of
           what
           it
           could
           bear
           :
           The
           surprize
           that
           this
           gave
           me
           ,
           increased
           upon
           me
           as
           I
           went
           out
           of
           Rome
           on
           its
           other
           side
           ,
           chiefly
           all
           the
           way
           to
           Naples
           ,
           and
           on
           the
           way
           to
           
             Civita
             Vecchia
          
           ;
           for
           that
           vast
           and
           rich
           Champian
           Country
           ,
           that
           runs
           all
           along
           to
           Terracina
           ,
           which
           from
           
             Civita
             Vecchi●
          
           is
           above
           a
           hundred
           miles
           long
           ,
           and
           is
           in
           many
           places
           twelve
           or
           twenty
           miles
           broad
           ,
           is
           abandoned
           to
           such
           a
           degree
           ,
           that
           as
           far
           as
           ones
           eye
           can
           carry
           one
           ,
           there
           is
           often
           not
           so
           much
           as
           a
           house
           to
           be
           seen
           ;
           but
           on
           the
           Hills
           ,
           that
           are
           on
           the
           North-side
           of
           this
           Valley
           :
           and
           by
           this
           dispeopling
           of
           the
           Country
           ,
           the
           Air
           is
           now
           become
           so
           unwholsom
           ,
           that
           it
           is
           not
           safe
           to
           be
           a
           night
           in
           it
           all
           the
           Summer
           long
           ;
           for
           the
           Water
           ,
           that
           lyes
           upon
           many
           places
           ,
           not
           being
           drained
           ,
           it
           rots
           ;
           and
           in
           the
           Summer
           this
           produc●●
           so
           many
           noisom
           Steams
           ,
           that
           it
           is
           felt
           even
           in
           Rome
           itself
           ;
           and
           if
           it
           were
           not
           for
           the
           breeses
           that
           come
           from
           the
           Mountains
           ,
           the
           Air
           would
           be
           intolerable
           :
           When
           one
           sees
           all
           this
           large
           ,
           but
           wast
           Country
           ,
           from
           the
           Hill
           of
           Marino
           ,
           twelve
           miles
           beyond
           Rome
           ,
           he
           cannot
           wonder
           enough
           at
           it
           .
           In
           a
           word
           ,
           it
           is
           the
           rigour
           of
           the
           Governme●t
           that
           hath
           driven
           away
           the
           Inhabitants
           ;
           and
           their
           being
           driven
           away
           ,
           hath
           now
           reduced
           it
           to
           such
           a
           pass
           ;
           that
           it
           is
           hardly
           possible
           to
           repeople
           it
           :
           for
           such
           as
           would
           come
           to
           drain
           and
           cultivate
           it
           ,
           must
           run
           a
           great
           hazard
           ,
           and
           few
           can
           resolve
           on
           that
           ,
           when
           they
           can
           hope
           for
           no
           other
           Reward
           of
           their
           Industry
           ,
           but
           an
           Uneasy
           Government
           .
           It
           is
           the
           greatest
           Solicism
           in
           Gov●rnment
           for
           the
           Prince
           to
           be
           El●ctive
           ,
           and
           yet
           Absolute
           ;
           for
           an
           
             Hereditary
             Prince
          
           i●
           
           induced
           to
           consider
           his
           Posterity
           ,
           and
           to
           maintain
           his
           people
           ,
           so
           that
           those
           that
           come
           after
           him
           may
           still
           support
           the
           rank
           which
           they
           hold
           in
           the
           World
           :
           But
           an
           
             Elective
             ●rin●e
          
           hath
           nothing
           of
           that
           in
           his
           eye
           ,
           unless
           he
           hath
           a
           pitch
           of
           generosity
           ,
           which
           is
           not
           ordinary
           among
           men
           ,
           and
           least
           of
           all
           among
           Italians
           ,
           who
           have
           a
           passion
           for
           their
           Families
           ,
           which
           is
           not
           known
           in
           o●her
           places
           :
           and
           thus
           a
           Pope
           ,
           who
           comes
           in
           late
           to
           this
           Dignity
           ,
           which
           by
           consequence
           he
           cannot
           hope
           to
           hold
           long
           ,
           do●h
           very
           naturally
           turn
           to
           those
           Councils
           ,
           by
           which
           his
           Family
           may
           make
           all
           the
           Hay
           they
           can
           during
           this
           Sun-shine
           :
           And
           tho
           anciently
           the
           Cardinals
           were
           a
           check
           upon
           the
           Pope
           ,
           and
           a
           sort
           of
           a
           Council
           ,
           without
           whom
           he
           could
           do
           nothing
           even
           in
           Temporals
           ;
           yet
           now
           they
           have
           quite
           lost
           that
           ;
           and
           they
           have
           no
           other
           share
           in
           affairs
           ,
           than
           that
           to
           which
           the
           Pope
           thinks
           fit
           to
           admit
           them
           ;
           so
           that
           he
           is
           the
           most
           
             absolute
             Prince
          
           in
           Europe
           .
           It
           is
           true
           ,
           as
           to
           Spirituals
           ,
           they
           re●ain
           still
           a
           large
           share
           ,
           so
           that
           in
           Censures
           and
           Definitions
           the
           Pope
           can
           do
           nothing
           regularly
           without
           their
           concurrence
           ;
           tho
           it
           is
           certain
           ,
           that
           they
           have
           not
           so
           good
           a
           Title
           to
           pretend
           to
           that
           ,
           as
           to
           a
           share
           in
           the
           
             Temporal
             Principality
          
           .
           For
           if
           the
           Pope
           derives
           any
           thing
           from
           
             Saint
             Peter
          
           ,
           all
           that
           is
           singly
           in
           himself
           ,
           and
           it
           is
           free
           to
           him
           to
           proceed
           by
           what
           method
           he
           thinks
           best
           ,
           since
           the
           Infallibility
           ,
           according
           to
           their
           p●etensions
           ,
           rests
           singly
           in
           him
           ;
           yet
           because
           there
           was
           not
           so
           much
           to
           be
           got
           by
           acting
           Arbitrary
           in
           those
           matters
           ,
           and
           a
           Summary
           way
           of
           exercising
           this
           Authority
           ,
           might
           have
           tempted
           the
           World
           to
           have
           enquired
           too
           much
           into
           the
           grounds
           on
           which
           it
           is
           built
           ;
           therefore
           the
           Popes
           have
           let
           the
           Cardinals
           retain
           still
           a
           share
           in
           this
           Suprema●y
           over
           the
           Church
           ,
           tho
           they
           have
           no
           claim
           to
           it
           ,
           neither
           by
           any
           Divi●e
           nor
           Ecclesiastical
           Warrants
           :
           But
           as
           for
           the
           endowments
           of
           the
           
             See
             of
             Rome
          
           ,
           to
           which
           they
           may
           justly
           lay
           claim
           ,
           as
           being
           in
           a
           manner
           the
           Chapter
           of
           that
           See
           ;
           there
           is
           so
           much
           to
           be
           got
           by
           this
           ,
           that
           the
           Popes
           have
           ingrossed
           it
           wholly
           to
           themselves
           :
           and
           thus
           it
           is
           ,
           that
           the
           Government
           of
           this
           Prin●ipality
           is
           very
           unsteady
           .
           Sometimes
           the
           
             Popes
             F●mily
          
           
           are
           extreamly
           glorious
           ,
           and
           magnificent
           ;
           at
           others
           times
           ,
           they
           think
           of
           nothing
           but
           of
           establishing
           their
           Hou●e
           Sometimes
           the
           Pope
           is
           a
           Man
           of
           sense
           himself
           ;
           Sometimes
           he
           is
           quite
           sunk
           ,
           and
           as
           the
           last
           Pope
           was
           ,
           he
           becomes
           a
           Child
           again
           through
           old
           age
           :
           Sometimes
           he
           hath
           a
           particular
           Stiffness
           of
           Temper
           ,
           with
           a
           great
           Slowness
           of
           Understanding
           and
           an
           insatiable
           desire
           of
           heaping
           up
           Wealth
           ,
           which
           is
           the
           Character
           of
           him
           that
           now
           reigns
           .
           By
           this
           diversity
           ,
           which
           appears
           eminently
           ●n
           every
           new
           Po●tificate
           ,
           that
           commonly
           avoids
           those
           Excesses
           that
           made
           the
           former
           reign
           odious
           ,
           the
           Councels
           of
           ●he
           Popedom
           are
           weak
           and
           disjoynted
           .
           But
           if
           this
           is
           sensible
           to
           all
           Europe
           ,
           with
           relation
           to
           the
           general
           concer●
           of
           that
           Body
           ,
           it
           is
           much
           more
           visible
           in
           the
           Principality
           it self
           ,
           that
           is
           subject
           to
           so
           variable
           a
           Head
           There
           hath
           been
           in
           this
           Age
           a
           succession
           of
           four
           ravenous
           reigns
           ;
           and
           tho
           there
           was
           a
           short
           Interruption
           in
           the
           Reign
           of
           the
           Rospigliosi
           ,
           that
           coming
           after
           the
           Barb●rins
           ,
           the
           Pamphili
           ,
           and
           the
           Ghi●i's
           ,
           did
           not
           inrich
           it self
           ;
           and
           yet
           it
           disordered
           the
           Revenue
           ,
           by
           the
           vast
           Magnificence
           in
           which
           he
           reigned
           ,
           more
           in
           twenty
           nine
           Months
           time
           ,
           than
           any
           other
           had
           done
           in
           so
           many
           years
           .
           The
           Altieri
           did
           ,
           in
           a
           most
           scandalous
           manner
           ,
           raise
           themselves
           in
           a
           very
           short
           and
           despised
           Reign
           ,
           and
           built
           one
           of
           the
           Noblest
           Palaces
           in
           Rome
           .
           He
           that
           reig●●
           now
           ,
           doth
           not
           indeed
           raise
           his
           Family
           avowedly
           ,
           but
           he
           doth
           not
           ease
           the
           People
           of
           their
           Taxes
           :
           and
           as
           there
           is
           no
           Magnificence
           in
           his
           Court
           ,
           nor
           any
           publick
           Buildings
           now
           catrying
           on
           at
           R●m●
           ;
           so
           the
           many
           vacant
           Caps
           ,
           occasion
           many
           empty
           Palaces
           :
           and
           by
           this
           means
           ,
           there
           is
           so
           little
           expence
           now
           made
           at
           Rome
           ,
           that
           it
           is
           not
           possible
           for
           the
           People
           to
           live
           and
           pay
           the
           Taxes
           ,
           which
           hat●
           driven
           ,
           as
           is
           believed
           ,
           almost
           a
           fourth
           part
           of
           the
           Inhabitants
           out
           of
           Rome
           ,
           during
           this
           Pontificate
           .
           And
           as
           the
           preemption
           of
           the
           Corn
           makes
           ,
           that
           there
           is
           no
           prof●●
           made
           by
           the
           Owners
           ,
           out
           of
           the
           cultivation
           of
           the
           Soil
           ,
           all
           that
           going
           wholly
           to
           the
           Pope
           ,
           so
           there
           are
           no
           waye●
           lest
           here
           of
           imploying
           ones
           Mony
           to
           any
           considerable
           Advantage
           :
           For
           the
           publick
           Banks
           ,
           which
           are
           all
           in
           t●e
           
           Popes
           hand
           ,
           do
           not
           pay
           in
           effect
           
             three
             percent
          
           ,
           tho
           they
           pretend
           to
           give
           
             four
             per
             cent
          
           of
           interest
           :
           The
           settlement
           is
           indeed
           
             four
             per
             cent
          
           ,
           and
           this
           was
           thought
           so
           great
           an
           advantage
           ,
           that
           Actions
           on
           the
           
             Popes
             Bank
          
           were
           bought
           at
           a
           hundred
           and
           
             sixteen
             the
             hund●ed
          
           .
           But
           this
           Pope
           broke
           through
           all
           this
           ,
           and
           declared
           ,
           he
           would
           give
           all
           Men
           their
           Mony
           again
           ,
           unless
           they
           would
           pay
           him
           
             thirty
             percent
          
           for
           the
           continuing
           of
           this
           Interest
           ;
           and
           thus
           for
           a
           hundred
           Crow●s
           Principal
           ,
           one
           not
           only
           payd
           at
           first
           one
           hundred
           and
           sixteen
           :
           but
           afterwards
           thirty
           :
           in
           all
           one
           hundred
           six
           and
           forty
           for
           the
           hundred
           ,
           which
           is
           almost
           the
           half
           lost
           :
           For
           whensoever
           the
           Pope
           will
           pay
           them
           back
           their
           Mony
           ,
           all
           the
           rest
           is
           lost
           :
           And
           while
           I
           am
           here
           ,
           there
           is
           a
           report
           ,
           that
           the
           Pope
           is
           treating
           with
           the
           Genoeses
           for
           Mony
           at
           
             two
             per
             cent
          
           ;
           and
           if
           he
           gets
           ●t
           on
           those
           terms
           ,
           then
           he
           will
           pay
           his
           Debts
           :
           and
           the
           Subjects
           ,
           that
           have
           put
           in
           Mony
           in
           this
           Bank
           ,
           will
           ,
           by
           this
           means
           ,
           lose
           six
           and
           forty
           
             per
             cent
          
           ,
           which
           is
           almost
           the
           half
           of
           their
           Stock
           .
           A
           man
           of
           quality
           at
           Rome
           ,
           and
           an
           eminent
           Church-man
           ,
           who
           took
           me
           likewise
           for
           one
           of
           their
           Clergy
           ,
           because
           I
           wore
           the
           Habit
           of
           a
           Church-man
           ,
           said
           ,
           that
           it
           was
           a
           horrible
           Scandal
           to
           the
           whole
           Christian
           World
           ,
           and
           made
           one
           doubt
           of
           the
           Truth
           of
           the
           
             Christian
             Religion
          
           ,
           to
           see
           more
           Oppression
           and
           Cruelty
           in
           their
           Territory
           ,
           than
           was
           to
           be
           found
           even
           in
           Turky
           ;
           tho
           it
           being
           in
           the
           Hands
           of
           
             Christ's
             Vicar
          
           ,
           one
           should
           expect
           to
           find
           there
           the
           pattern
           of
           a
           mild
           and
           gentle
           Government
           :
           and
           how
           (
           said
           he
           )
           can
           a
           Man
           expect
           to
           find
           his
           Religion
           here
           ,
           where
           the
           common
           Maxims
           of
           Justice
           and
           Mercy
           were
           not
           so
           much
           as
           known
           .
           And
           I
           can
           never
           forget
           the
           lively
           reflection
           that
           a
           
             Roman
             Prin●e
          
           made
           to
           me
           upon
           the
           folly
           of
           all
           those
           severe
           Oppressions
           ,
           whi●h
           as
           they
           drive
           away
           the
           Inhabitants
           ,
           so
           they
           reduce
           those
           that
           are
           left
           to
           such
           a
           degeneracy
           of
           Spirit
           by
           their
           Necessities
           ,
           that
           the
           Spaniards
           ,
           whose
           Dominions
           look
           so
           big
           in
           the
           Map
           ,
           are
           now
           brought
           so
           low
           ;
           and
           if
           they
           had
           kept
           still
           the
           possession
           they
           once
           had
           of
           the
           
             Vnited
             Netherlands
          
           ,
           they
           would
           signifie
           no
           more
           towards
           their
           preservation
           ,
           
           than
           their
           other
           Provinces
           did
           ;
           which
           ,
           by
           their
           unskilful
           conduct
           ,
           they
           have
           both
           dispeopled
           and
           exhausted
           .
           Whereas
           by
           their
           losing
           those
           
             Seven
             Provin●es
          
           ,
           those
           States
           hav●
           fallen
           upon
           such
           wise
           Notions
           of
           Government
           ,
           and
           have
           drawn
           so
           much
           W●alth
           ,
           and
           such
           numbers
           of
           People
           together
           ,
           that
           Spain
           it self
           was
           now
           preserved
           by
           them
           ,
           and
           was
           saved
           in
           this
           Age
           by
           the
           loss
           it
           made
           of
           those
           Provinces
           in
           the
           last
           ;
           and
           those
           States
           ,
           that
           if
           they
           had
           remained
           subject
           to
           Spain
           ,
           would
           have
           signified
           little
           to
           its
           support
           ,
           did
           that
           now
           much
           more
           considerably
           ,
           by
           being
           Ali●●s
           ,
           than
           they
           could
           have
           done
           ,
           if
           they
           had
           not
           shaken
           off
           their
           Yoke
           .
        
         
           Indeed
           ,
           if
           Spain
           had
           been
           so
           happy
           as
           to
           have
           such
           Viceroys
           ,
           and
           Governo●rs
           ,
           as
           it
           has
           now
           in
           Naples
           ,
           their
           affairs
           could
           not
           have
           declined
           so
           fast
           as
           they
           have
           done
           .
           The
           
             Marquis
             of
             Carpy
          
           ,
           in
           his
           youth
           intended
           to
           have
           take●
           so
           severe
           a
           Revenge
           of
           an
           Injury
           ,
           that
           he
           thought
           the
           late
           
             King
             of
             Spain
          
           did
           him
           in
           an
           Amour
           ,
           that
           he
           designed
           the
           blowing
           him
           up
           by
           Gun-powder
           ,
           when
           he
           was
           in
           the
           Council-Chamber
           ;
           but
           that
           Crime
           was
           discored
           in
           time
           ,
           and
           was
           not
           only
           forgiven
           him
           in
           consideration
           of
           the
           greatness
           of
           his
           Family
           ,
           he
           being
           the
           Son
           of
           
             Don
             Lewis
             de
             Har●
          
           ,
           but
           after
           that
           he
           was
           made
           for
           several
           years
           
             Ambassador
             ●t
             Rome
          
           :
           He
           is
           now
           
             Viceroy
             o●
             Naples
          
           ,
           and
           is
           the
           only
           G●vernour
           of
           all
           the
           Places
           th●ough
           which
           I
           Passed
           ,
           that
           is
           ,
           without
           exception
           ,
           beloved
           and
           esteemed
           by
           all
           sorts
           o●
           People
           ;
           for
           during
           the
           few
           years
           of
           his
           Ministry
           ,
           he
           hath
           redressed
           such
           abuses
           that
           seemed
           past
           cure
           ,
           and
           that
           required
           an
           Age
           to
           correct
           them
           :
           He
           hath
           repressed
           the
           Insolence
           of
           the
           Spaniards
           so
           much
           at
           Naples
           ,
           that
           the
           Natives
           have
           no
           occasion
           to
           complain
           of
           the
           haughtiness
           of
           their
           Masters
           :
           sor
           he
           proceeds
           against
           the
           Spaniards
           with
           no
           less
           severity
           ,
           when
           they
           give
           cause
           for
           it
           ,
           than
           against
           the
           Neapolitans
           :
           He
           hath
           taken
           the
           Pay
           of
           the
           Souldiers
           so
           immediately
           into
           his
           own
           care
           ,
           that
           they
           who
           before
           his
           coming
           ,
           were
           hal●
           naked
           ,
           and
           robbed
           such
           as
           passed
           on
           the
           Streets
           of
           Naples
           
           in
           day
           light
           ,
           are
           now
           exactly
           payed
           ,
           well
           disciplined
           ,
           and
           so
           decently
           cloathed
           ,
           that
           it
           is
           a
           pleasure
           to
           see
           them
           :
           He
           examins
           their
           Musters
           also
           so
           exactly
           ,
           that
           he
           is
           sure
           not
           to
           be
           cheated
           by
           false
           lifts
           :
           He
           hath
           brought
           the
           Markets
           and
           Weights
           of
           Napl●s
           to
           a
           true
           Exactness
           :
           And
           whereas
           the
           Bread
           was
           generally
           too
           light
           ,
           he
           has
           sent
           for
           Loave●
           out
           of
           the
           several
           places
           of
           the
           Markets
           ,
           and
           weighed
           them
           himself
           ;
           and
           by
           some
           severe
           Punishments
           on
           those
           that
           sold
           the
           Bread
           too
           light
           ,
           he
           hath
           brought
           this
           matter
           to
           a
           just
           Regulation
           :
           He
           hath
           also
           brought
           the
           
             Courts
             of
             Iudicature
          
           ,
           that
           were
           thought
           generally
           very
           corrupt
           ,
           to
           Reputation
           again
           ;
           and
           it
           is
           believed
           ,
           he
           hath
           Spies
           to
           watch
           in
           case
           the
           trade
           of
           Bribes
           is
           sound
           to
           be
           still
           going
           on
           :
           He
           hath
           fortified
           the
           Palla●e
           ,
           which
           was
           before
           his
           time
           so
           much
           exposed
           ,
           that
           it
           would
           have
           been
           no
           hard
           thing
           to
           have
           made
           a
           descent
           upon
           it
           ,
           But
           the
           two
           things
           ,
           that
           raise
           his
           reputation
           most
           ,
           are
           his
           Extirpating
           of
           the
           Banditi
           ,
           and
           the
           Regulation
           of
           the
           Coin
           ,
           which
           he
           hath
           taken
           in
           hand
           .
           It
           is
           well
           enough
           known
           ,
           what
           a
           Plague
           the
           Banditi
           have
           been
           to
           the
           Kingdom
           ;
           for
           they
           going
           in
           Troops
           ,
           not
           only
           robbed
           the
           Country
           ,
           but
           were
           able
           to
           resist
           an
           ordinary
           Body
           of
           Souldiers
           ,
           if
           they
           had
           set
           on
           them
           :
           These
           travelled
           about
           seeking
           for
           spoil
           all
           the
           Summer
           long
           ;
           but
           in
           Winter
           they
           were
           harboured
           by
           some
           of
           the
           
             Neapolitan
             Barrons
          
           ,
           who
           gave
           them
           Quarter●
           ;
           and
           thereby
           did
           not
           only
           protect
           their
           own
           Lands
           ,
           but
           had
           them
           as
           so
           many
           Instruments
           ready
           to
           execute
           their
           Revenges
           on
           their
           Enemies
           .
           This
           was
           well
           known
           at
           Naples
           ,
           and
           there
           was
           a
           Council
           that
           had
           the
           Care
           of
           the
           reducing
           the
           Banditi
           committed
           to
           them
           ,
           who
           as
           they
           catched
           some
           few
           ,
           and
           hanged
           them
           ,
           so
           they
           fined
           such
           Barons
           as
           gave
           them
           harbour
           ;
           and
           it
           was
           believed
           ,
           that
           those
           Fines
           ,
           amounted
           to
           near
           a
           hundred
           and
           fifty
           thousand
           Crowns
           a
           year
           :
           And
           thus
           the
           disease
           went
           on
           ;
           only
           now
           and
           then
           there
           was
           a
           little
           Blood
           let
           ,
           which
           never
           went
           to
           the
           bottom
           of
           the
           Distemper
           .
           But
           when
           the
           present
           Vi●eroy
           entred
           upon
           the
           Governm●nt
           ,
           
           he
           resolved
           to
           extirpate
           all
           the
           Banditi
           ;
           and
           he
           first
           let
           all
           the
           Barons
           understand
           ,
           that
           if
           they
           harboured
           them
           any
           more
           ,
           a
           little
           Fine
           would
           not
           save
           them
           ,
           but
           that
           he
           woul●
           proceed
           against
           them
           with
           the
           utmost
           severity
           ;
           and
           by
           this
           means
           the
           Banditi
           could
           find
           no
           Winter
           Quarter●
           :
           So
           they
           betook
           themselves
           to
           some
           fastnesses
           among
           the
           Hills
           ,
           and
           resolved
           to
           make
           good
           the
           Passes
           ,
           and
           to
           accommodate
           themselves
           the
           best
           they
           could
           amidst
           the
           Mountains
           .
           The
           Viceroy
           sent
           a
           great
           body
           against
           them
           ,
           but
           they
           desended
           themselves
           for
           sometime
           vigorously
           ,
           and
           in
           one
           sally
           they
           killed
           five
           hundred
           men
           :
           but
           at
           last
           ,
           seeing
           that
           they
           were
           like
           to
           be
           hard
           prest
           ,
           and
           that
           the
           Viceroy
           intended
           to
           come
           against
           them
           in
           Person
           ,
           they
           accepted
           of
           the
           terms
           that
           he
           offered
           them
           ,
           which
           was
           ,
           a
           pardon
           for
           what
           was
           past
           ,
           both
           as
           to
           life
           and
           Gallies
           ,
           and
           six
           pence
           a
           day
           for
           their
           entertainment
           i●
           Prison
           during
           life
           ,
           or
           the
           Viceroys
           pleasure
           ;
           and
           so
           they
           rendred
           themselves
           .
           They
           are
           kept
           in
           a
           large
           Prison
           ,
           and
           now
           and
           then
           ,
           as
           he
           sees
           cause
           for
           it
           ,
           he
           sends
           some
           few
           of
           them
           up
           and
           down
           to
           serve
           in
           Garrisons
           .
           And
           thus
           ,
           beyond
           all
           mens
           expectation
           ,
           he
           finished
           this
           matter
           in
           a
           very
           few
           months
           ;
           and
           the
           
             Kingdom
             of
             Naples
          
           ,
           that
           hath
           been
           so
           long
           a
           scene
           of
           Pillage
           and
           Robbery
           ,
           is
           now
           so
           much
           changed
           ,
           that
           in
           no
           place
           of
           Europe
           do
           the
           Subjects
           injoy
           a
           more
           entire
           Security
           .
           As
           for
           the
           Coin
           ,
           it
           ,
           as
           all
           the
           other
           
             Spanish
             Mony
          
           ,
           is
           so
           subject
           to
           Clipping
           ,
           that
           the
           whole
           mony
           of
           Naples
           is
           now
           light
           ,
           and
           far
           below
           the
           true
           value
           ;
           so
           the
           Viceroy
           hath
           resolved
           to
           redress
           this
           :
           he
           considers
           ,
           that
           the
           crying
           down
           of
           Mony
           ,
           that
           passeth
           upon
           the
           publick
           Credit
           ,
           is
           a
           robbing
           of
           those
           in
           whose
           hands
           the
           mony
           happens
           to
           be
           ,
           when
           such
           Proclamations
           are
           put
           out
           ;
           and
           therefore
           he
           takes
           a
           method
           that
           is
           more
           general
           ,
           in
           which
           every
           one
           will
           bear
           his
           share
           ,
           so
           that
           none
           will
           be
           crushed
           by
           it
           .
           He
           hath
           laid
           some
           Taxes
           on
           the
           whole
           Kingdom
           ,
           and
           hath
           got
           a
           great
           many
           to
           bring
           in
           some
           Plate
           to
           be
           coyned
           :
           and
           when
           he
           ha●h
           thus
           prepared
           such
           a
           quantity
           ,
           ●s
           may
           se●ve
           for
           the
           circulation
           that
           is
           necessary
           ,
           be
           
           intends
           to
           call
           in
           all
           the
           old
           Mony
           ,
           and
           to
           give
           out
           new
           Mony
           for
           it
           .
           Thus
           doth
           this
           Viceroy
           set
           such
           a
           pattern
           to
           the
           other
           Ministers
           of
           the
           Crown
           of
           Spa●n
           ,
           that
           if
           many
           would
           follow
           it
           ,
           the
           State
           of
           their
           affairs
           would
           be
           soon
           altered
           .
        
         
           The
           
             Kingdom
             of
             Naples
          
           is
           the
           richest
           part
           of
           all
           Italy
           ;
           for
           the
           very
           Mount●ins
           ,
           that
           are
           near
           the
           half
           of
           the
           Soil
           ,
           are
           fruitful
           ,
           and
           produce
           either
           Wi●e
           or
           Oil
           in
           great
           abundance
           .
           Apulia
           is
           a
           great
           Corn
           Country
           ,
           but
           it
           is
           excessive
           hot
           ,
           and
           in
           some
           years
           all
           i●
           burnt
           up
           .
           The
           Iesuites
           are
           the
           Proprietors
           of
           near
           the
           half
           of
           Apulia
           ;
           and
           they
           treat
           their
           Tenan●s
           with
           the
           same
           rigour
           that
           the
           Barons
           of
           this
           Kingdom
           do
           generally
           use
           towards
           their
           Farmers
           :
           for
           the
           Commons
           here
           are
           so
           miserably
           oppressed
           ,
           that
           in
           many
           places
           they
           dye
           of
           hunger
           ,
           even
           amidst
           the
           great
           plenty
           of
           their
           best
           years
           ;
           for
           the
           Corn
           is
           exported
           to
           Spain
           :
           but
           neither
           the
           Spaniards
           nor
           the
           Neopolitans
           understand
           Trade
           so
           well
           as
           to
           be
           their
           own
           Merchants
           or
           Carriers
           ,
           so
           that
           the
           English
           do
           generally
           carry
           away
           the
           profit
           of
           thi●
           Trade
           .
           The
           Oil
           of
           this
           Kingdom
           is
           still
           a
           vast
           Trade
           ,
           and
           the
           Manufacture
           of
           the
           Wool
           and
           Soap
           of
           England
           ,
           consumes
           yearly
           some
           thousands
           of
           Tuns
           .
           The
           
             silk
             Trade
          
           is
           so
           low
           ,
           that
           it
           only
           serves
           themselves
           ,
           but
           the
           exportation
           is
           inconsiderable
           :
           the
           Sloth
           and
           Laziness
           of
           this
           people
           renders
           them
           incapable
           of
           making
           those
           Advantages
           of
           so
           rich
           a
           soil
           ,
           that
           a
           more
           industrious
           sort
           of
           people
           would
           find
           out
           :
           For
           it
           amazes
           a
           Stranger
           to
           see
           in
           their
           little
           Towns
           ,
           the
           whole
           men
           of
           the
           town
           walking
           in
           the
           Market
           places
           in
           their
           torn
           Cloaks
           ,
           and
           doing
           nothing
           ;
           and
           tho
           in
           some
           big
           towns
           ,
           such
           as
           Capua
           ,
           there
           is
           but
           one
           Inn
           ,
           yet
           even
           that
           is
           so
           miserable
           ,
           that
           the
           best
           Room
           and
           Bed
           in
           it
           ,
           is
           so
           bad
           ,
           that
           our
           Footmen
           in
           England
           would
           make
           a
           grievous
           Outcry
           if
           they
           were
           no
           better
           lodged
           ;
           nor
           is
           there
           any
           thing
           to
           be
           had
           in
           them
           :
           the
           Wine
           is
           intolerable
           ,
           the
           Bread
           ill
           Baked
           ,
           no
           Victuals
           ,
           except
           Pidgeons
           ,
           and
           the
           Oil
           is
           rotten
           .
           In
           short
           ,
           except
           one
           carries
           his
           whole
           Provision
           from
           Rome
           or
           Naples
           ;
           he
           must
           resolve
           to
           indure
           a
           good
           deal
           of
           Misery
           in
           the
           four
           days
           journey
           that
           is
           between
           those
           two
           places
           .
           And
           this
           is
           what
           a
           T●●veller
           ,
           
           that
           sees
           the
           Riches
           of
           the
           soil
           ,
           cannot
           comprehend
           :
           but
           as
           they
           have
           not
           hands
           enough
           for
           their
           soil
           ,
           so
           those
           they
           have
           are
           generally
           so
           little
           imployed
           ,
           that
           it
           is
           no
           wonder
           to
           see
           their
           soil
           produce
           so
           little
           ;
           that
           in
           the
           midst
           of
           all
           that
           abundance
           ,
           that
           Nature
           hath
           set
           before
           them
           ,
           they
           are
           one
           of
           the
           poorest
           Nations
           of
           Europe
           .
           But
           beside
           this
           which
           I
           have
           named
           ,
           the
           vast
           and
           dead
           Wealth
           that
           is
           in
           the
           hands
           of
           the
           Churchme●
           ,
           is
           another
           evident
           cause
           of
           their
           misery
           .
           One
           that
           knew
           the
           State
           of
           this
           Kingdom
           well
           ,
           assured
           me
           ,
           that
           if
           it
           were
           divided
           into
           
             five
             parts
          
           ,
           upon
           a
           strict
           survey
           ,
           it
           would
           be
           found
           ,
           that
           the
           Chur●hmen
           had
           
             four
             parts
          
           of
           the
           five
           :
           which
           he
           made
           out
           thus
           ,
           they
           have
           in
           Soil
           above
           the
           half
           of
           the
           whole
           ,
           which
           is
           two
           and
           a
           half
           ;
           and
           in
           Tythes
           ,
           and
           Gifts
           ,
           and
           Legacies
           ,
           they
           have
           one
           and
           a
           half
           more
           :
           for
           no
           man
           die●●
           without
           leaving
           a
           considerable
           Legacy
           to
           some
           Church
           o●
           some
           Convent
           .
           The
           Wealth
           that
           one
           sees
           in
           the
           
             City
             of
             Naples
          
           alone
           ,
           passeth
           imagination
           ;
           there
           are
           four
           and
           twenty
           Houses
           of
           the
           Order
           of
           the
           Dominicans
           ,
           of
           both
           Sexes
           ,
           and
           two
           and
           twenty
           of
           the
           Franciscans
           ,
           seven
           of
           the
           I●suites
           ;
           besides
           the
           Convents
           ,
           of
           the
           Olivita●es
           ,
           the
           Theatines
           ,
           the
           Carmelites
           ,
           the
           Benedictines
           ;
           and
           above
           all
           ,
           for
           scituation
           and
           riches
           ,
           the
           Carthusians
           ,
           on
           the
           top
           of
           the
           Hill
           that
           lieth
           over
           the
           Town
           .
           The
           riches
           of
           the
           Annunciata
           are
           prodigious
           :
           It
           is
           the
           greatest
           Hospital
           in
           the
           World
           ;
           the
           Revenue
           is
           said
           to
           be
           four
           hundred
           thousand
           Crowns
           a
           year
           :
           the
           number
           of
           the
           Sick
           is
           not
           so
           great
           as
           at
           Milan
           :
           Yet
           one
           convenience
           for
           their
           Sick●
           observed
           in
           their
           Galleries
           ,
           which
           was
           considerable
           ,
           that
           every
           Bed
           stood
           as
           in
           an
           Alcove
           ,
           and
           had
           a
           Wall
           on
           both
           sides
           ,
           separating
           it
           from
           the
           Beds
           on
           both
           hands
           ,
           and
           as
           much
           void
           space
           of
           both
           sides
           of
           the
           Bed
           ,
           that
           the
           Bed
           it self
           took
           up
           but
           half
           the
           Room
           .
           The
           young
           Children
           that
           they
           maintain
           are
           so
           many
           ,
           that
           one
           can
           hardly
           believe
           the
           numbers
           that
           they
           boast
           of
           ;
           for
           they
           talk
           of
           many
           thousands
           that
           are
           not
           seen
           ,
           but
           are
           at
           Nurse
           :
           a
           great
           part
           of
           the
           wealth
           of
           
             this
             House
          
           goeth
           to
           the
           inriching
           their
           Church
           ,
           which
           will
           be
           all
           over
           within
           crusted
           with
           inlayings
           
           of
           lovely
           Marble
           ,
           in
           a
           great
           variety
           and
           beauty
           of
           colours
           :
           The
           Plate
           that
           is
           in
           the
           Treasury
           here
           and
           in
           the
           Dome
           ,
           (
           which
           is
           but
           a
           mean
           building
           ,
           because
           it
           is
           ancient
           ,
           but
           hath
           a
           Noble
           Chappel
           ,
           and
           a
           vast
           Treasure
           )
           and
           in
           a
           great
           many
           other
           Churches
           ,
           are
           so
           prodigious
           ,
           that
           upon
           the
           modestest
           estimate
           ,
           the
           Plate
           of
           ●he
           
             Churc●es
             of
             Naples
          
           amounts
           to
           eight
           millions
           of
           Crowns
           .
           The
           new
           Church
           of
           the
           Iesuites
           ,
           that
           of
           
             the
             Apostles
          
           ,
           and
           that
           of
           
             S.
             Paul
          
           ,
           are
           surprizingly
           rich
           ;
           the
           gilding
           an●
           painting
           that
           is
           on
           the
           Roofs
           of
           those
           Churches
           have
           cost
           millions
           :
           And
           as
           there
           are
           about
           a
           hundred
           C●nvents
           in
           Naples
           ,
           so
           every
           one
           of
           these
           ,
           if
           it
           were
           in
           another
           place
           ,
           would
           be
           thought
           well
           worth
           seeing
           ,
           tho
           the
           riches
           of
           the
           greater
           Convents
           here
           ,
           make
           many
           of
           them
           to
           be
           less
           visited
           .
           Every
           year
           there
           is
           a
           new
           Governour
           of
           the
           
             Annun
             inta
          
           ,
           who
           perhaps
           puts
           in
           his
           own
           Pocket
           twenty
           thousand
           Crowns
           ;
           and
           to
           make
           some
           Compensation
           when
           he
           goeth
           out
           of
           Office
           ,
           he
           giveth
           a
           vast
           piece
           of
           Plate
           to
           the
           House
           ,
           a
           Statue
           for
           a
           Saint
           in
           Silver
           ,
           or
           some
           Coloss
           of
           a
           Candlestick
           ;
           for
           several
           of
           those
           pieces
           of
           plate
           are
           said
           to
           be
           worth
           ten
           thousand
           Crowns
           ;
           and
           thus
           all
           the
           Silver
           of
           Naples
           becomes
           dead
           and
           useless
           :
           The
           Jesuites
           are
           great
           Merchants
           here
           ;
           their
           Wine-Cellar
           is
           a
           vast
           Vault
           ,
           and
           holds
           above
           a
           thousand
           Hogsheads
           ,
           and
           the
           best
           Wine
           of
           Naples
           is
           sold
           by
           them
           ;
           yet
           they
           do
           no
           retail
           it
           out
           so
           scandalously
           as
           the
           Minims
           do
           ,
           who
           live
           on
           the
           great
           square
           before
           the
           
             Viceroys
             Palace
          
           ,
           and
           sell
           out
           their
           Wine
           by
           reta●l
           :
           they
           pay
           no
           Duty
           ,
           and
           have
           extraordinary
           good
           Wine
           ,
           and
           are
           in
           the
           best
           Place
           of
           the
           Town
           for
           this
           retail
           .
           It
           is
           true
           ,
           the
           Neapolitans
           are
           no
           great
           Drinkers
           ,
           so
           the
           Prof●s
           of
           this
           Tavern
           are
           not
           so
           great
           as
           they
           would
           be
           in
           colder
           Countries
           ;
           for
           here
           men
           go
           only
           in
           for
           a
           draught
           in
           the
           mornings
           ,
           or
           when
           they
           are
           athirst
           .
           Yet
           the
           House
           groweth
           extream
           rich
           ,
           and
           hath
           one
           of
           the
           finest
           Ch●pp●ls
           that
           is
           in
           all
           Naples
           ;
           but
           the
           Trade
           seems
           very
           unbecoming
           men
           of
           that
           Profession
           ,
           and
           of
           so
           strict
           an
           Order
           .
           The
           C●nvents
           have
           a
           very
           particular
           priviledge
           in
           this
           Town
           ;
           for
           they
           may
           buy
           all
           the
           Houses
           that
           ly
           on
           either
           
           side
           ,
           till
           the
           first
           street
           that
           discontinueth
           the
           Houses
           ;
           and
           there
           being
           scarce
           a
           street
           in
           Naples
           in
           which
           there
           is
           not
           a
           Conv●nt
           ,
           by
           this
           means
           they
           may
           come
           to
           buy
           in
           the
           whole
           Town
           :
           And
           the
           progress
           that
           the
           Wealth
           of
           the
           C●ergy
           makes
           in
           this
           Kingdom
           is
           so
           visible
           ,
           that
           if
           there
           is
           not
           some
           stop
           put
           to
           it
           ,
           within
           an
           Age
           they
           will
           make
           themselves
           Masters
           of
           the
           whole
           Kingdom
           ▪
           It
           is
           an
           amazing
           thing
           to
           see
           so
           profound
           an
           ignorance
           ,
           as
           reign●
           among
           the
           Clergy
           ,
           prevail
           so
           effectually
           ;
           for
           tho
           all
           the
           Secular
           persons
           here
           ,
           speak
           of
           them
           with
           all
           possible
           scorn
           ,
           yet
           they
           are
           the
           Masters
           of
           the
           Spirits
           of
           the
           People
           .
           The
           Women
           are
           infinitly
           Superstitious
           ,
           and
           give
           their
           husbands
           no
           rest
           ,
           but
           as
           they
           draw
           from
           them
           great
           presents
           to
           the
           Church
           .
           It
           is
           true
           ,
           there
           are
           Societies
           of
           men
           at
           Naples
           of
           sreer
           thoughts
           than
           can
           be
           found
           in
           any
           other
           place
           of
           Italy
           :
           The
           
             Greek
             Learning
          
           begins
           to
           flourish
           there
           ,
           and
           the
           
             n●w
             Philosophy
          
           is
           much
           studied
           ;
           and
           there
           is
           an
           Assembly
           that
           is
           held
           in
           
             D.
             Ioseph
             Vallet●'s
          
           Library
           (
           where
           there
           is
           a
           vast
           Collection
           of
           well
           chosen
           Books
           )
           composed
           of
           Men
           that
           have
           a
           right
           tast
           of
           true
           Learning
           and
           good
           Sense
           :
           They
           are
           ill
           looked
           on
           by
           the
           Clergy
           ,
           and
           represented
           as
           a
           set
           of
           Atheists
           ,
           and
           as
           the
           Spawn
           of
           Pomponatius's
           School
           :
           But
           I
           found
           no
           suc●
           thing
           among
           them
           ;
           for
           I
           had
           the
           Honour
           to
           meet
           twice
           or
           thrice
           with
           a
           considerable
           number
           of
           them
           ,
           during
           the
           short
           stay
           that
           I
           made
           among
           them
           :
           There
           is
           a
           learned
           Lawyer
           ,
           
             Francisco
             Andria
          
           ,
           that
           is
           considered
           as
           one
           of
           the
           most
           inquisitive
           Men
           of
           the
           Assembly
           :
           There
           is
           also
           a
           Grandchild
           of
           the
           
             Great
             Alciat
          
           ,
           who
           is
           very
           c●rious
           as
           well
           as
           learned
           .
           Few
           Churchmen
           come
           into
           this
           attempt
           for
           the
           reviving
           of
           Learning
           among
           them
           :
           O●
           the
           contrary
           ,
           it
           is
           plain
           ,
           that
           they
           dread
           it
           above
           a●things
           .
           Only
           one
           Eminent
           Preacher
           ,
           Rinaldi
           ,
           that
           〈◊〉
           Archdeacon
           of
           Capua
           ,
           associates
           himself
           with
           them
           :
           ●e
           was
           once
           of
           the
           
             Iesuits
             Order
          
           ,
           but
           left
           it
           ;
           and
           as
           that
           alo●●
           served
           to
           give
           a
           good
           Character
           of
           him
           to
           me
           ,
           so
           upon
           ●
           long
           conversation
           with
           him
           ,
           I
           found
           a
           great
           many
           other
           t●●ngs
           that
           possessed
           me
           with
           a
           high
           value
           ●or
           him
           .
           Some
           
           Physicians
           in
           Naples
           are
           brought
           under
           the
           Scandal
           of
           Atheism
           ;
           and
           it
           is
           certain
           ,
           that
           in
           Italy
           ,
           men
           of
           searching
           understandings
           ,
           who
           have
           no
           other
           Idea
           of
           the
           
             Christian
             Religion
          
           ,
           but
           that
           which
           they
           see
           received
           among
           them
           ,
           are
           very
           naturally
           tempted
           to
           disbelieve
           it
           quite
           ;
           for
           they
           believing
           it
           all
           alike
           in
           gross
           ,
           without
           distinction
           ,
           and
           finding
           such
           notorious
           Cheats
           as
           appear
           in
           many
           parts
           of
           their
           Religion
           ,
           are
           upon
           that
           induced
           to
           disbelieve
           the
           whole
           .
           The
           Preaching
           of
           the
           Monks
           in
           Naples
           are
           terrible
           things
           .
           I
           saw
           a
           Iesuit
           go
           in
           a
           sort
           of
           a
           Procession
           ,
           with
           a
           great
           company
           about
           him
           ,
           and
           calling
           upon
           all
           that
           he
           saw
           ,
           to
           follow
           him
           to
           a
           place
           where
           a
           Mountebank
           was
           selling
           his
           Medicines
           ,
           near
           whom
           he
           took
           his
           Room
           ,
           and
           entertained
           the
           people
           with
           a
           sort
           of
           a
           Farce
           ,
           till
           the
           Mountebank
           got
           him
           to
           give
           over
           ;
           fearing
           lest
           his
           action
           should
           grow
           tedious
           ,
           and
           disperse
           the
           company
           that
           was
           brought
           together
           .
           There
           are
           no
           famous
           Preachers
           ,
           nor
           men
           of
           any
           reputation
           for
           learning
           among
           the
           Iesuites
           :
           I
           was
           told
           ,
           they
           had
           not
           men
           capable
           to
           teach
           their
           Schools
           ;
           and
           that
           they
           were
           forced
           to
           hire
           Strangers
           :
           The
           Order
           of
           the
           Oratory
           hath
           not
           that
           reputation
           in
           Italy
           ,
           that
           it
           hath
           gained
           in
           France
           ;
           and
           the
           little
           Learning
           that
           is
           among
           the
           Clergy
           in
           Naples
           ,
           is
           among
           some
           few
           Secular
           Priests
           .
        
         
           The
           new
           Method
           of
           Molino's
           doth
           so
           much
           prevail
           in
           Naples
           ,
           that
           it
           is
           believed
           ,
           he
           hath
           above
           twenty
           thousand
           Followers
           in
           this
           City
           :
           And
           since
           this
           hath
           made
           some
           noise
           in
           the
           World
           ,
           and
           yet
           is
           generally
           but
           little
           understood
           ,
           I
           will
           give
           you
           some
           account
           of
           him
           :
           He
           is
           a
           
             Spanish
             Priest
          
           ,
           that
           seems
           to
           be
           but
           an
           ordinary
           Divine
           ,
           and
           is
           certainly
           a
           very
           ill
           Reasoner
           ,
           when
           he
           undertakes
           to
           prove
           his
           Opinions
           :
           He
           hath
           writ
           a
           Book
           ,
           which
           is
           intituled
           ,
           
             il
             Guida
             Spiritual●
          
           ,
           which
           is
           a
           short
           abstract
           of
           the
           
             Mystical
             Divinity
          
           ;
           the
           Substance
           of
           the
           whole
           is
           reduced
           to
           this
           ,
           
             That
             in
             our
             Prayers
             ,
             and
             other
             Devotions
             ,
             the
             best
             Methods
             are
             to
             reti●e
             the
             mind
             from
             all
             gross
             Images
             ,
             and
             so
             to
             form
             an
             Act
             of
             F●ith
             ,
             ●●d
             thereby
             to
             present
             our selves
             before
             God
             :
             and
             then
             to
             sink
             into
             a
             silenoe
             and
             cessation
             of
             new
             Acts
             ,
             and
             to
             let
             God
             act
             upon
             
             us
             ,
             and
             so
             to
             follow
             his
             Conduct
             .
          
           This
           way
           he
           prefers
           to
           the
           multiplication
           of
           many
           new
           Acts
           ,
           and
           different
           form●
           of
           Devotion
           ;
           and
           he
           makes
           small
           Account
           of
           corporal
           Austerities
           ,
           and
           reduces
           all
           the
           Exercises
           of
           Religion
           to
           this
           simplicity
           of
           Mind
           :
           He
           thinks
           this
           is
           not
           only
           to
           be
           proposed
           to
           such
           as
           live
           in
           
             Religious
             Houses
          
           ,
           but
           even
           to
           Secular
           persons
           ,
           and
           by
           this
           he
           hath
           proposed
           a
           great
           Reformation
           of
           mens
           Minds
           and
           Manners
           ;
           He
           ha●h
           many
           Priests
           in
           Italy
           ,
           but
           chiefly
           in
           Naples
           ,
           that
           dispose
           those
           who
           confess
           themselves
           to
           them
           ,
           to
           follow
           his
           Method
           :
           The
           Iesuites
           have
           set
           themselves
           much
           against
           this
           conduct
           ,
           as
           foreseeing
           ,
           that
           it
           may
           much
           weaken
           the
           Emp●●●●
           that
           Superstition
           hath
           over
           the
           Minds
           of
           People
           ,
           that
           〈◊〉
           may
           make
           Religion
           become
           a
           more
           plain
           and
           simple
           thing●
           and
           may
           also
           open
           a
           door
           to
           Enthusiasms
           :
           they
           also
           pretend
           ,
           that
           his
           conduct
           is
           Factious
           and
           Seditious
           ;
           that
           thi●
           may
           breed
           a
           Schism
           in
           the
           Chur●h
           .
           And
           because
           he
           saith
           ,
           in
           some
           places
           of
           his
           Book
           ,
           
             That
             the
             Mind
             may
             rise
             up
             〈◊〉
             such
             a
             Simplicity
             in
             its
             Acts
             ,
             that
             it
             may
             rise
             in
             some
             of
             its
             Devotions
             to
             God
             immediately
             ,
             without
             contemplating
             t●●
             Humanity
             of
             Christ
             ,
          
           they
           have
           accused
           him
           ,
           as
           intending
           to
           lay
           aside
           the
           Doctrine
           of
           
             Christ's
             Humanity
          
           ;
           tho
           it
           〈◊〉
           plain
           ,
           that
           he
           speaks
           only
           ,
           
             of
             the
             purity
             of
             some
             sing●●
             Acts
             :
          
           Upon
           all
           those
           heads
           they
           have
           set
           themselve●
           much
           against
           Molinos
           ;
           and
           they
           have
           also
           pretended
           that
           some
           of
           his
           Disciples
           have
           infused
           into
           their
           Peniten●●
           
             That
             they
             may
             go
             and
             communicate
             as
             they
             find
             themselv●●
             disposed
             ,
             without
             going
             first
             to
             Confession
          
           ;
           which
           they
           thought
           weakned
           much
           the
           yoke
           ,
           by
           which
           the
           Pri●●●
           subdue
           the
           Consciences
           of
           the
           People
           to
           their
           Conduc●
           Yet
           he
           was
           much
           supported
           both
           in
           the
           Kingdom
           of
           Nap●●●
           and
           in
           Si●ily
           ;
           he
           had
           also
           many
           Friends
           and
           Followers
           〈◊〉
           Rome
           ,
           So
           the
           Iesuites
           ,
           as
           a
           Provin●ial
           of
           the
           Order
           a●●●red
           me
           ,
           finding
           they
           could
           not
           ruin
           him
           by
           their
           o●●
           force
           ,
           got
           a
           great
           King
           ,
           that
           is
           now
           extreamly
           in
           the
           I●●●rests
           of
           their
           Order
           ,
           to
           interpose
           ,
           and
           to
           represent
           to
           the
           Pope
           the
           danger
           of
           such
           Innovations
           .
           It
           is
           certain
           ,
           〈◊〉
           Pope
           understands
           the
           matter
           very
           little
           ,
           and
           that
           he
           is
           po●sessed
           
           with
           a
           great
           opinion
           of
           Molino's
           Sanctify
           ;
           yet
           upon
           the
           Complaints
           of
           some
           Cardinals
           ,
           that
           seconded
           the
           Zeal
           of
           that
           King
           ,
           he
           and
           some
           of
           his
           Followers
           were
           ●●pt
           in
           the
           Inquisition
           ,
           where
           they
           have
           been
           now
           for
           some
           Months
           ,
           but
           they
           are
           still
           well
           used
           ,
           which
           is
           believed
           to
           flow
           from
           the
           good
           opinion
           that
           the
           Pope
           hath
           of
           ●im
           ,
           who
           saith
           still
           ,
           that
           tho
           he
           may
           have
           erred
           ,
           yet
           ●e
           is
           certainly
           a
           good
           man
           :
           Upon
           this
           Inprisonment
           ,
           Pa●quin
           said
           a
           pleasant
           thing
           ;
           in
           one
           week
           ,
           
             one
             man
          
           had
           been
           condemned
           to
           the
           Gallies
           
             for
             somewhat
             he
             hath
             said
             ,
             ●●●ther
          
           hath
           been
           hanged
           
             for
             somewhat
             he
             had
             writ
          
           ,
           and
           Mali●●s
           was
           clapt
           in
           prison
           ,
           whose
           Doctrine
           consisted
           ●●efly
           in
           this
           ,
           that
           
             m●n
             ought
             to
             bring
             their
             minds
             to
             a
             state
             of
             inward
             qu●etness
             ,
          
           from
           which
           the
           name
           of
           Quie●●●●●
           was
           given
           to
           all
           his
           followers
           :
           The
           Pasquinade
           upon
           all
           this
           ,
           was
           ,
           
             Si
             parliamo
             ,
             in
             Galere
             ,
             si
             scrivemmo
             Im●i●cati
             ,
             si
             stiamo
             inquiete
             all'
             Sant
             '
             Officio
             ,
             ●e
             che
             bisog●●
             for●
             :
             If
             we
             speak
             ,
             we
             are
             sent
             to
             the
          
           Gallies
           ;
           
             if
             〈◊〉
             write
             ,
             we
             are
          
           hanged
           ;
           
             if
             we
             stand
             quiet
             ,
             we
             are
             clapt
             dapt
             in
             the
          
           Inquisition
           :
           
             what
             mus●
             we
             do
             then
          
           ?
           Yet
           his
           Followers
           at
           Naples
           are
           not
           daunted
           ,
           but
           they
           believe
           ,
           he
           will
           come
           out
           of
           this
           Tryal
           victorious
           .
        
         
           The
           City
           of
           Naples
           ,
           as
           it
           is
           the
           best
           scituated
           ,
           and
           i●
           the
           best
           Climate
           ,
           so
           it
           is
           one
           of
           the
           Noblest
           Cities
           of
           ●●rope
           ;
           and
           if
           it
           is
           not
           above
           half
           as
           big
           as
           Paris
           or
           London
           ,
           yet
           it
           hath
           much
           more
           beauty
           than
           either
           of
           them
           :
           The
           Streets
           are
           large
           and
           broad
           ,
           the
           Pave●ent
           is
           great
           and
           Noble
           ,
           the
           Stones
           being
           generally
           above
           a
           foot
           square
           ,
           and
           it
           is
           full
           of
           Palaces
           ,
           and
           great
           Buildi●g●
           :
           The
           Town
           is
           well
           supplied
           by
           daily
           Markets
           ,
           so
           that
           Provisions
           are
           ever
           fresh
           ,
           and
           in
           great
           plenty
           ;
           the
           Wine
           is
           the
           best
           of
           Europe
           ;
           and
           both
           ●he
           Fish
           and
           Flesh
           is
           extream
           good
           :
           it
           is
           scarce
           ever
           cold
           in
           Winter
           ,
           and
           there
           is
           a
           fresh
           Air
           comes
           ,
           both
           from
           the
           Sea
           and
           the
           Mountains
           in
           Summer
           .
           The
           
             Viceroy's
             Palace
          
           is
           no
           extraordinary
           building
           ,
           only
           the
           Stair-case
           is
           great
           :
           But
           it
           is
           now
           very
           richly
           furnished
           within
           ,
           in
           Pictures
           and
           Statues
           :
           There
           are
           in
           it
           some
           Statues
           of
           the
           
             Egyptian
             Deities
          
           of
           
           Touchstone
           ,
           that
           are
           of
           great
           value
           :
           There
           are
           no
           great
           Antiquities
           here
           ,
           only
           there
           is
           an
           Ancient
           
             Roman
             Porti●●
          
           ,
           that
           is
           very
           Noble
           before
           
             Saint
             Pauls
             Chur●h
          
           .
           B●●
           without
           the
           City
           near
           the
           Church
           and
           Ho●pital
           of
           
             S●i●●
             Gennaro
          
           ,
           that
           is
           without
           the
           Gates
           ,
           are
           the
           Noble
           Catacombs
           ,
           which
           because
           they
           were
           beyond
           any
           thing
           I
           saw
           in
           Italy
           ,
           and
           to
           which
           the
           Catacombs
           of
           Rome
           are
           not
           to
           be
           compared
           ,
           and
           since
           I
           do
           not
           find
           any
           accoun●
           of
           them
           ,
           in
           all
           the
           Books
           that
           I
           have
           yet
           seen
           concerning
           Naples
           ,
           I
           shall
           describe
           them
           more
           particularly
           .
        
         
           They
           are
           vast
           and
           long
           Galleries
           cut
           out
           of
           the
           Rock
           ▪
           there
           are
           three
           Stories
           of
           them
           one
           above
           another
           :
           ●
           was
           in
           two
           of
           them
           ,
           but
           the
           Rock
           is
           fallen
           in
           the
           lowest
           ,
           so
           that
           one
           cannot
           go
           into
           it
           ,
           but
           I
           saw
           the
           passage
           to
           ●t
           ▪
           These
           Galleries
           are
           generally
           about
           twenty
           foot
           broad
           ,
           and
           about
           fifteen
           foot
           high
           :
           so
           that
           they
           are
           Noble
           and
           spacious
           places
           ,
           and
           not
           little
           and
           narrow
           as
           the
           Catacombs
           at
           Rome
           ,
           which
           are
           only
           three
           or
           four
           foot
           broad
           ▪
           and
           five
           or
           six
           foot
           high
           .
           I
           was
           made
           believe
           ,
           that
           these
           Catacombs
           of
           Naples
           went
           into
           the
           Rock
           nine
           mile
           long
           ;
           but
           for
           that
           I
           have
           i●
           only
           by
           report
           :
           Yet
           if
           that
           be
           true
           ,
           they
           may
           perhaps
           run
           towards
           
             Puz
             zolo
          
           ,
           and
           so
           they
           may
           have
           been
           the
           burial
           places
           of
           the
           Towns
           on
           that
           Bay
           ;
           but
           of
           this
           I
           have
           no
           certainty
           .
           I
           walked
           indeed
           a
           great
           way
           ,
           and
           found
           Galleries
           going
           off
           on
           all
           hands
           without
           end
           ,
           and
           whereas
           in
           the
           
             Rom●●
             Catacombs
          
           there
           are
           not
           above
           three
           or
           four
           rows
           of
           Niches
           ,
           that
           are
           cut
           out
           in
           the
           Rock
           one
           over
           another
           ,
           into
           which
           the
           
             dead
             Bodies
          
           were
           laid
           ;
           her●
           there
           are
           generally
           six
           or
           seven
           rows
           of
           those
           Niches●●nd
           ●nd
           they
           are
           both
           larger
           and
           higher
           ;
           some
           Niches
           are
           ●or
           Childrens
           Bodies
           ;
           and
           in
           many
           places
           there
           are
           ●n
           the
           Floors
           ,
           as
           it
           were
           great
           Chests
           hewn
           out
           of
           the
           Rock
           ,
           to
           lay
           the
           bones
           of
           the
           dead
           as
           they
           dried
           ,
           in
           them
           ;
           but
           I
           could
           see
           no
           ma●ks
           either
           of
           a
           cover
           for
           these
           holes
           ,
           that
           looked
           like
           the
           bellys
           of
           Chests
           ,
           or
           of
           a
           facing
           to
           shut
           up
           the
           Niches
           when
           a
           dead
           Body
           was
           laid
           in
           them
           ;
           so
           that
           it
           seems
           they
           were
           
           monstrous
           unwholesome
           and
           stinking
           places
           ,
           where
           some
           thousands
           of
           Bodies
           lay
           rotting
           ,
           without
           any
           thing
           to
           shut
           in
           so
           loathsome
           a
           sight
           ,
           and
           so
           odious
           a
           smell
           :
           For
           the
           Niches
           shew
           plainly
           ,
           that
           the
           Bodies
           were
           laid
           in
           them
           only
           wrapt
           in
           the
           dead
           Cloaths
           ,
           they
           being
           too
           low
           for
           Coffins
           .
           In
           some
           places
           of
           the
           Rock
           there
           is
           as
           it
           were
           a
           little
           Chappel
           hewen
           out
           in
           the
           Rock
           ,
           that
           goes
           off
           from
           the
           common
           Gallery
           ,
           and
           there
           are
           Niches
           all
           round
           about
           ;
           but
           I
           saw
           no
           marks
           of
           any
           Wall
           ,
           that
           shut
           in
           such
           places
           ;
           tho
           I
           am
           apt
           to
           think
           ,
           these
           might
           be
           burying
           places
           appropriated
           to
           particular
           Families
           .
           There
           is
           in
           some
           places
           on
           the
           Walls
           and
           Arch
           ,
           Old
           
             Mosaick
             Work
          
           ,
           and
           some
           Painting
           ,
           the
           Colours
           are
           fresh
           ,
           and
           the
           Manner
           and
           Characters
           are
           Gothick
           ;
           which
           made
           me
           conclude
           ,
           that
           this
           might
           have
           been
           done
           by
           the
           Normans
           ,
           about
           six
           hundred
           years
           ago
           ,
           after
           they
           drove
           out
           the
           Saracens
           :
           In
           some
           Places
           there
           are
           Palmtrees
           painted
           ,
           and
           Vines
           in
           other
           places
           .
           The
           freshness
           of
           the
           Colours
           ,
           shew
           these
           could
           ●ot
           have
           been
           done
           while
           this
           place
           was
           imployed
           for
           burying
           ;
           for
           the
           Steams
           and
           Rottenness
           of
           the
           air
           ,
           occasioned
           by
           so
           much
           Corruption
           ,
           must
           have
           dissolved
           both
           Plaister
           and
           Colours
           .
           In
           one
           place
           ,
           there
           is
           a
           man
           painted
           with
           a
           little
           Beard
           ,
           and
           Paulus
           is
           written
           by
           his
           head
           :
           there
           is
           another
           reaching
           him
           a
           Garland
           ,
           and
           by
           his
           head
           Land
           is
           written
           :
           and
           this
           is
           repeated
           in
           another
           place
           right
           over
           against
           it
           .
           In
           another
           place
           I
           found
           a
           Cross
           painted
           ,
           and
           about
           the
           upper
           part
           of
           it
           these
           Letters
           ●
           .
           C.
           X.
           O.
           and
           in
           the
           lower
           part
           NJKA
           .
           are
           painted
           :
           A
           learned
           Antiquar●
           ,
           that
           went
           with
           me
           ,
           agreed
           with
           me
           ,
           that
           the
           manner
           of
           the
           Painting
           and
           Charact●●
           did
           not
           seem
           to
           be
           above
           six
           hundred
           years
           old
           :
           but
           neith●●
           of
           us
           knew
           what
           to
           make
           of
           these
           Letters
           :
           The
           low●●
           seemed
           to
           relate
           to
           the
           last
           word
           of
           the
           Vision
           ,
           which
           it
           is
           said
           that
           Constantine
           saw
           with
           the
           cross
           that
           appeared
           to
           him
           :
           But
           tho
           the
           first
           two
           Letters
           might
           be
           for
           Iesus
           ,
           it
           being
           ordinary
           in
           old
           Coyns
           and
           Inscriptions
           to
           put
           a
           C.
           for
           an
           S.
           and
           X.
           stands
           for
           Christ
           ,
           yet
           we
           knew
           not
           what
           
           to
           make
           of
           the
           O
           ,
           unless
           it
           were
           for
           the
           Greek
           Theta
           ,
           and
           that
           the
           little
           line
           in
           the
           bosom
           of
           the
           Theta
           was
           worn
           out
           ,
           and
           then
           it
           stands
           for
           Theos
           ;
           and
           thus
           the
           whole
           Inscription
           is
           ,
           
             Iesus
             Christ
             God
             overcometh
          
           .
           Another
           Picture
           i●
           the
           Wall
           had
           written
           over
           it
           
             Sta.
             Iohannes
          
           ,
           which
           was
           a
           clear
           sign
           of
           a
           barbarous
           Age
           :
           In
           another
           place
           there
           is
           ●
           Picture
           high
           in
           the
           Wall
           ,
           and
           three
           Pictures
           under
           it
           ,
           th●●
           at
           top
           ,
           had
           no
           Inscription
           ;
           those
           below
           it
           ,
           had
           these
           Inscriptions
           ,
           
             S
             Katharina
             ,
             S.
             Agape
          
           ,
           and
           
             S.
             Margarita
          
           ,
           these
           Letters
           are
           clearly
           modern
           ;
           besides
           that
           ,
           Margaret
           and
           Katherine
           are
           modern
           names
           :
           and
           the
           add●tion
           of
           t●●
           a
           little
           above
           the
           S.
           were
           manifest
           evidences
           ,
           th●●
           the
           highest
           Antiquity
           that
           can
           be
           ascribed
           to
           this
           Painting
           is
           six
           hundred
           years
           .
           I
           saw
           no
           more
           Painting
           ,
           and
           I
           ●egan
           to
           grow
           weary
           of
           the
           darkness
           ,
           and
           the
           thick
           A●r
           ●f
           the
           place
           ,
           so
           I
           stayed
           not
           above
           an
           hour
           in
           the
           Catacom●●
           .
           This
           made
           me
           reflect
           more
           particularly
           on
           the
           
             Catacom●●
             of
             Rome
          
           ,
           than
           I
           had
           done
           ;
           I
           could
           image
           no
           reason
           why
           so
           little
           mention
           is
           made
           of
           those
           of
           Naples
           ,
           when
           there
           i●
           so
           much
           said
           concerning
           those
           of
           Rome
           ;
           and
           could
           give
           my self
           no
           other
           account
           of
           the
           matter
           ,
           but
           that
           it
           being
           a
           maxim
           to
           keep
           up
           the
           reputation
           of
           the
           
             Roman
             Catacombs
          
           ,
           as
           the
           Repositories
           of
           the
           Reliques
           of
           the
           primitive
           Christians
           ,
           it
           would
           have
           much
           lessned
           their
           credit
           ,
           if
           〈◊〉
           had
           been
           thought
           ,
           that
           there
           were
           Cata●ombs
           far
           beyond
           them
           in
           all
           respects
           ,
           that
           yet
           cannot
           be
           supposed
           to
           have
           been
           the
           work
           of
           the
           primitive
           Christians
           ;
           and
           indeed
           ,
           nothing
           seems
           more
           evident
           ,
           than
           that
           these
           were
           the
           
             common
             Burying
             Places
          
           of
           the
           ancient
           Heatbens
           .
           O●●
           enters
           into
           them
           without
           the
           Walls
           of
           the
           Towns
           ,
           according
           to
           the
           Laws
           of
           the
           twelve
           Tables
           ,
           and
           such
           are
           the
           
             Cata●ombs
             of
             Rome
          
           that
           I
           saw
           ,
           which
           were
           those
           of
           
             S.
             Agnes
          
           and
           
             S.
             Sebastian
          
           ,
           the
           entry
           into
           them
           being
           without
           the
           Town
           ;
           this
           answers
           the
           Law
           ,
           tho
           in
           effect
           they
           run
           under
           it
           ;
           for
           in
           those
           dayes
           ,
           when
           they
           had
           not
           the
           use
           of
           the
           Needle
           ,
           they
           could
           not
           know
           which
           way
           they
           carried
           on
           those
           works
           ,
           when
           they
           were
           once
           so
           far
           ingaged
           under
           ground
           ,
           as
           to
           lose
           themselves
           .
           It
           is
           a
           vain
           
           ●magination
           to
           think
           ,
           that
           the
           Christians
           ,
           in
           the
           primitive
           times
           ,
           were
           able
           to
           carry
           on
           such
           a
           work
           ;
           for
           as
           this
           prodigious
           digging
           into
           such
           Rocks
           ,
           must
           have
           been
           a
           very
           visible
           thing
           by
           the
           Mountains
           of
           Rubbish
           that
           must
           have
           been
           brought
           out
           ,
           and
           by
           the
           vast
           number
           of
           Hands
           that
           must
           have
           been
           imployed
           in
           it
           ;
           so
           it
           is
           absurd
           to
           think
           ,
           that
           they
           could
           hold
           their
           Assemblies
           amidst
           the
           annoyance
           of
           so
           much
           corruption
           .
           I
           found
           the
           Steams
           so
           strong
           ,
           that
           tho
           I
           am
           as
           little
           subject
           to
           Vapours
           as
           most
           men
           ,
           yet
           I
           had
           all
           the
           day
           long
           after
           I
           was
           in
           them
           ,
           which
           was
           not
           near
           an
           hour
           ,
           a
           Confusion
           ,
           and
           as
           it
           were
           a
           boyling
           in
           my
           Head
           ,
           that
           disordered
           me
           extreamly
           ;
           and
           if
           there
           is
           now
           so
           much
           
             stagnating
             Air
          
           there
           ,
           this
           must
           have
           been
           sensible
           in
           a
           more
           eminent
           and
           insufferable
           manner
           while
           there
           were
           vast
           numbers
           of
           bodies
           rotting
           in
           those
           Niches
           .
           But
           besides
           this
           improbability
           ,
           that
           presents
           it self
           from
           the
           nature
           of
           the
           thing
           ,
           I
           called
           to
           mind
           a
           passage
           of
           a
           Letter
           of
           Cornelius
           ,
           that
           was
           
             Bishop
             of
             Rome
          
           ,
           after
           the
           middle
           of
           the
           
             third
             Century
          
           ,
           which
           is
           preserved
           by
           Eusebi●s
           in
           his
           sixth
           Book
           ,
           Chapter
           43.
           in
           which
           we
           have
           the
           State
           of
           the
           Church
           of
           Rome
           at
           that
           time
           set
           forth
           .
           There
           were
           forty
           six
           Presbyters
           ,
           seven
           Deacons
           ,
           as
           many
           Subdeacons
           ,
           and
           ninety
           four
           of
           the
           Inferior
           Orders
           of
           the
           Clergy
           among
           them
           :
           there
           were
           also
           fifteen
           hundred
           Widows
           ,
           and
           other
           poor
           maintained
           out
           of
           the
           publick
           Charities
           .
           It
           may
           be
           reasonably
           supposed
           ,
           that
           the
           numbers
           of
           the
           Christians
           were
           as
           great
           when
           this
           Epistle
           was
           writ
           ,
           as
           they
           were
           at
           any
           time
           before
           Constantine's
           dayes
           ;
           for
           as
           this
           was
           writ
           at
           the
           end
           of
           that
           long
           Peace
           ,
           of
           which
           both
           
             S.
             Cyprian
          
           and
           Lactantius
           speak
           ,
           that
           had
           continued
           above
           a
           hundred
           years
           ;
           so
           after
           this
           time
           ,
           there
           was
           such
           a
           succession
           of
           Persecutions
           ,
           that
           came
           so
           thick
           one
           upon
           another
           ,
           after
           short
           intervals
           of
           quiet
           ,
           that
           we
           cannot
           think
           the
           number●
           of
           the
           Christians
           increased
           much
           beyond
           what
           they
           were
           at
           this
           time
           .
           Now
           there
           are
           two
           particulars
           in
           this
           State
           of
           the
           Clergy
           ,
           upon
           which
           one
           may
           make
           a
           probable
           estimate
           of
           the
           numbers
           of
           the
           Christians
           ;
           the
           one
           is
           ,
           their
           Poor
           ,
           which
           were
           but
           
             fifteen
             
             hundred
          
           :
           now
           upon
           an
           exact
           survey
           ,
           it
           will
           be
           found
           ,
           that
           where
           the
           poor
           are
           well
           looked
           to
           ,
           their
           number
           rises
           generally
           to
           be
           the
           thirtieth
           or
           fortieth
           part
           of
           mankind
           ;
           and
           this
           may
           be
           well
           believed
           to
           be
           the
           proportion
           of
           the
           Poor
           among
           the
           Christians
           of
           that
           Age
           :
           For
           as
           their
           Charity
           was
           vigorous
           and
           tender
           ,
           so
           we
           find
           
             Celsus
             ,
             Iulian
             ,
             Lucian
             ,
             Prophiry
             ,
          
           and
           others
           ,
           Object
           this
           to
           the
           Christians
           of
           that
           time
           ,
           that
           their
           Charities
           to
           the
           Poor
           drew
           va●●
           numbers
           of
           the
           lower
           sort
           among
           them
           ,
           who
           made
           themselves
           Christians
           that
           they
           might
           be
           supplied
           by
           their
           Brethren
           :
           So
           that
           this
           being
           the
           State
           of
           the
           Christia●s
           then
           ,
           we
           may
           reckon
           the
           Poor
           the
           thirtieth
           part
           ,
           and
           so
           fifteen
           hundred
           multiplied
           by
           thirty
           ,
           produce
           five
           and
           forty
           thousand
           :
           And
           I
           am
           the
           more
           inclined
           to
           think
           ,
           that
           this
           rises
           up
           near
           to
           the
           full
           sum
           of
           their
           numbers
           ,
           by
           the
           other
           Character
           of
           the
           numbers
           of
           the
           Clergy
           ;
           for
           as
           there
           were
           forty
           six
           Presbyters
           ,
           so
           there
           were
           ninety
           four
           of
           the
           inferior
           Orders
           ,
           who
           were
           two
           more
           than
           double
           the
           number
           of
           the
           Priests
           :
           and
           this
           was
           in
           a
           time
           in
           which
           the
           Care
           of
           Souls
           was
           more
           exactly
           looked
           after
           ,
           than
           it
           has
           been
           in
           the
           more
           corrupted
           Ages
           ,
           the
           Clergy
           having
           then
           really
           more
           work
           on
           their
           hands
           ,
           the
           instructing
           of
           their
           Catechumens
           ,
           the
           visiting
           their
           Sick
           ,
           and
           the
           supporting
           and
           comforting
           the
           Weak
           ,
           being
           Tasks
           that
           required
           so
           much
           application
           ,
           that
           in
           so
           vast
           a
           City
           ,
           as
           Rome
           was
           in
           those
           dayes
           ,
           in
           which
           it
           is
           probable
           the
           Christians
           were
           scattered
           over
           the
           City
           ,
           and
           mixed
           in
           all
           the
           parts
           of
           it
           we
           make
           a
           conjecture
           that
           is
           not
           ill
           grounded
           ,
           when
           we
           reckon
           ,
           that
           every
           Presbyter
           had
           perhaps
           about
           a
           thousand
           Souls
           committed
           to
           his
           Care
           ,
           so
           this
           ri●es
           to
           six
           and
           forty
           thousand
           :
           which
           comes
           very
           near
           the
           sum
           that
           may
           be
           gathered
           from
           the
           other
           hint
           ,
           taken
           from
           the
           number
           of
           their
           Poor
           .
           So
           that
           about
           
             fifty
             thousand
          
           is
           the
           highest
           account
           to
           which
           we
           can
           reasonably
           raise
           the
           numbers
           of
           the
           
             Christians
             of
             Rome
          
           in
           that
           time
           :
           And
           of
           so
           many
           persons
           ,
           the
           Old
           ,
           the
           Young
           ,
           and
           the
           Women
           ,
           make
           more
           than
           three
           fourth
           pa●ts
           ;
           so
           that
           men
           that
           were
           in
           condition
           to
           work
           ,
           were
           not
           above
           
             twelve
             thousand
          
           :
           
           and
           by
           consequence
           ,
           they
           were
           in
           no
           condition
           to
           undertake
           and
           carry
           on
           so
           vast
           a
           Work.
           If
           Cornelius
           in
           in
           that
           Letter
           speaks
           of
           the
           numbers
           of
           the
           Christians
           in
           excessive
           terms
           ,
           and
           if
           Tertullian
           in
           his
           Apology
           hath
           also
           set
           out
           the
           numbers
           of
           the
           Christians
           of
           his
           time
           ,
           in
           a
           very
           high
           strain
           ,
           that
           is
           only
           to
           be
           ascribed
           to
           a
           pom●ous
           Eloquence
           ,
           which
           disposeth
           people
           to
           magnifie
           their
           own
           Party
           ,
           and
           we
           must
           allow
           a
           good
           deal
           to
           a
           hyperbole
           ,
           that
           is
           very
           natural
           to
           all
           that
           set
           forth
           their
           Forces
           in
           general
           terms
           .
           It
           is
           true
           ,
           it
           is
           not
           so
           clear
           when
           those
           vast
           Cavities
           were
           dug
           out
           of
           the
           Rocks
           .
           We
           know
           ,
           that
           when
           the
           Laws
           of
           the
           twelve
           Tables
           were
           made
           ,
           Sepulture
           was
           then
           in
           use
           :
           and
           Rome
           being
           then
           grown
           to
           a
           vast
           bigness
           ,
           no
           doubt
           they
           had
           Reposit●ries
           for
           their
           Dead
           :
           so
           that
           since
           none
           of
           the
           
             Roman
             Authors
          
           mention
           any
           such
           work
           ,
           it
           may
           not
           be
           unreasonable
           to
           Imagine
           ,
           that
           these
           Vaults
           had
           been
           wrought
           and
           cut
           out
           from
           the
           first
           beginnings
           of
           the
           City
           ▪
           and
           so
           the
           later
           Authors
           had
           no
           occasion
           ●o
           take
           notice
           of
           it
           .
           It
           is
           also
           certain
           ,
           that
           tho
           Burning
           came
           to
           be
           in
           use
           among
           the
           Romans
           ,
           yet
           they
           returned
           back
           to
           their
           first
           Custom
           of
           Burying
           Bodies
           long
           before
           Constantines
           time
           ;
           so
           that
           is
           was
           not
           the
           
             Christian
             Religion
          
           that
           produced
           this
           change
           .
           All
           our
           modern
           Writers
           take
           it
           for
           granted
           ,
           that
           the
           change
           was
           made
           in
           the
           times
           of
           the
           Antonius
           :
           yet
           there
           being
           no
           Law
           made
           concerning
           it
           ,
           and
           no
           mention
           being
           made
           in
           an
           Age
           full
           of
           writers
           ,
           of
           any
           orders
           that
           were
           given
           for
           Burying-places
           ,
           Velseru●'●
           opinion
           seems
           more
           probable
           ,
           that
           the
           Custom
           of
           Burning
           wore
           out
           by
           degrees
           ;
           and
           since
           we
           are
           sure
           ,
           that
           they
           once
           buried
           ,
           it
           is
           more
           natural
           to
           think
           ,
           that
           the
           Slaves
           and
           the
           meaner
           sort
           of
           people
           were
           still
           Buried
           ,
           that
           being
           a
           less
           expenceful
           ,
           and
           a
           more
           simple
           way
           of
           bestowing
           their
           Bodies
           ,
           than
           Burning
           ,
           which
           was
           both
           pompous
           and
           chargeable
           ;
           and
           ,
           if
           there
           were
           already
           
             Burying
             places
          
           prepared
           ,
           it
           is
           much
           easier
           to
           imagin
           how
           the
           Custom
           of
           Burying
           grew
           universal
           without
           any
           Law
           made
           concerning
           it
           .
        
         
           I
           could
           not
           for
           some
           time
           find
           out
           upon
           what
           grounds
           the
           
             Modern
             Criticks
          
           take
           it
           for
           granted
           ,
           that
           Burying
           
           began
           in
           the
           times
           of
           the
           Antonins
           ,
           till
           I
           had
           the
           happiness
           to
           talk
           of
           this
           ma●ter
           with
           the
           learned
           Gronovius
           ,
           who
           seems
           to
           be
           such
           a
           Master
           of
           all
           the
           Antient
           Learning
           ,
           〈◊〉
           if
           he
           had
           the
           Authors
           lying
           alwayes
           open
           before
           him
           :
           he
           told
           me
           ,
           that
           it
           was
           certain
           ,
           the
           change
           from
           Burni●g
           to
           Burying
           ,
           was
           not
           made
           by
           the
           
             Christian
             Emperours
          
           ;
           for
           Ma●robius
           (
           lib.
           7.
           chap.
           7.
           )
           sayes
           ,
           in
           plain
           terms
           ,
           that
           the
           Custom
           of
           Burning
           the
           ●odies
           of
           the
           Dead
           ,
           was
           quite
           worn
           out
           in
           that
           age
           :
           which
           is
           a
           clear
           Intimation
           ,
           that
           it
           was
           not
           laid
           aside
           so
           late
           as
           by
           Constantine
           ;
           and
           as
           there
           was
           no
           Law
           made
           by
           him
           on
           that
           head
           ,
           so
           he
           and
           the
           succeeding
           Emper●urs
           ,
           gave
           such
           an
           entire
           toleration
           to
           Paganism
           ,
           admitting
           those
           of
           that
           Religion
           to
           the
           greatest
           Imployments
           ,
           that
           it
           is
           not
           to
           be
           imagined
           ,
           that
           there
           was
           any
           order
           given
           against
           Burning
           ;
           so
           that
           it
           is
           clear
           ,
           the
           Heath●ns
           had
           changed
           it
           of
           their
           own
           accord
           :
           otherwayes
           we
           should
           have
           found
           that
           among
           the
           Complain●s
           that
           they
           made
           of
           the
           Grievances
           under
           which
           they
           lay
           from
           the
           Christians
           .
           But
           it
           is
           more
           difficult
           to
           fix
           the
           time
           when
           this
           change
           was
           made
           .
           Gronovius
           shewed
           me
           a
           passage
           of
           Phlegons
           ,
           that
           mentions
           the
           Bodies
           that
           were
           laid
           in
           the
           Ground
           ;
           yet
           he
           did
           not
           build
           on
           that
           ;
           for
           it
           may
           have
           relation
           to
           the
           customs
           of
           Burying
           that
           might
           be
           elsewhere
           .
           And
           so
           Petronius
           gives
           the
           account
           of
           the
           Burial
           of
           the
           
             Ephesian
             Matrons
             husband
          
           ;
           but
           he
           made
           i●
           apparent
           to
           me
           ,
           that
           Burying
           was
           commonly
           practised
           in
           Commodus's
           time
           ;
           for
           Xiphilinus
           tells
           us
           ,
           that
           in
           Pertinax's
           time
           ,
           the
           Friends
           of
           those
           whom
           Commodus
           had
           ordered
           to
           be
           put
           to
           Death
           ,
           had
           dug
           up
           their
           Bodies
           ,
           some
           bringing
           out
           only
           some
           parts
           of
           them
           ,
           and
           others
           raising
           their
           entire
           Bodies
           .
           The
           same
           Author
           also
           tells
           us
           ,
           that
           Pertinax
           buried
           Commodus's
           body
           ,
           and
           so
           saved
           it
           from
           the
           Rage
           of
           the
           People
           ;
           and
           here
           is
           a
           positive
           Evidence
           ,
           that
           Burying
           was
           the
           common
           practice
           of
           that
           time
           .
           The
           same
           learned
           person
           has
           since
           my
           first
           conversation
           with
           him
           upon
           this
           subject
           ,
           suggested
           to
           me
           two
           passages
           of
           
             Festus
             Pompeius
          
           ,
           that
           seem
           to
           determiné
           this
           whole
           matter
           ;
           and
           that
           tell
           us
           ,
           by
           what
           names
           those
           Catacombs
           
           were
           known
           in
           the
           Roman
           time
           ,
           where-abouts
           they
           were
           ▪
           and
           what
           sort
           of
           persons
           were
           laid
           in
           them
           ;
           we
           have
           also
           the
           designation
           by
           which
           the
           Bearers
           were
           commonly
           known
           ,
           and
           the
           time
           when
           they
           carried
           out
           the
           Dead
           Bodies
           :
           and
           it
           appears
           particularly
           by
           them
           ▪
           that
           in
           the
           Repositories
           ,
           of
           which
           that
           author
           makes
           mention
           ,
           there
           was
           no
           care
           taken
           to
           preserve
           the
           bodies
           that
           were
           laid
           in
           them
           from
           rotting
           .
           His
           words
           are
           .
           
             Puticulos
             antiquissi●um
             genus
             sepulturae
             appellatos
             ,
             quod
             ibi
             in
             puteis
             s●pelir●●ter
             homenes
             :
             qualis
             fuerit
             locus
             quo
             nunc
             cadavera
             projici
             solent
             ,
             extra
             portam
             Esquilinam
             :
             qua
             quod
             ibi
             putesc●r●nt
             ,
             inde
             prius
             appellatos
             existimat
             puticulos
             Aelius
             Gall●s
             ,
             qui
             ait
             antiqui
             moris
             fuisse
             ,
             ut
             patres
             familias
             in
             lo●●m
             publicum
             extra
             oppidum
             mancipia
             vilia
             projicerent
             ,
             atqu●
             it
             a
             projecta
             ,
             quod
             ibi
             ●a
             p●tescerent
             ,
             nomen
             esse
             factum
             puticuli
             .
          
           The
           other
           passage
           runs
           thus
           .
           
             Vespa
             &
             Vespillones
             dicuntur
             ,
             qui
             funerandis
             corporibus
             officium
             gerunt
             ,
             non
             ●
             minutis
             illis
             volucribus
             ,
             sed
             quia
             vespertino
             tempore
             cos
             efferunt
             ,
             qui
             funebri
             pompa
             duci
             propter
             inopiam
             nequeunt
             .
          
           All
           this
           agrees
           so
           exactly
           to
           the
           thoughts
           ,
           that
           a
           general
           view
           of
           those
           Repositories
           give
           a
           man
           ,
           that
           it
           will
           not
           be
           hard
           to
           persuade
           him
           ,
           that
           those
           
             Burying
             places
          
           ,
           that
           are
           now
           graced
           with
           the
           pompous
           title
           of
           Catacombs
           ,
           are
           no
           other
           than
           the
           Putecoli
           mentioned
           by
           
             Festus
             Pompeius
          
           ,
           where
           the
           meanest
           sort
           of
           the
           
             Roman
             slaves
          
           were
           laid
           ,
           and
           so
           without
           any
           further
           care
           about
           them
           were
           left
           to
           rot
           .
        
         
           It
           is
           true
           ,
           it
           is
           very
           probable
           ,
           that
           as
           we
           see
           some
           of
           the
           
             Roman
             Families
          
           continued
           to
           Bury
           their
           Dead
           ,
           even
           when
           Burning
           was
           the
           more
           common
           Custom
           ;
           so
           perhaps
           others
           continued
           after
           this
           to
           hurn
           their
           dead
           ,
           the
           thing
           being
           Indifferent
           ,
           and
           no
           Law
           being
           made
           about
           it
           ;
           and
           therefore
           it
           was
           particularly
           objected
           to
           the
           Christians
           after
           this
           time
           ,
           that
           they
           abhorred
           the
           Custom
           of
           Burning
           the
           Bodies
           of
           the
           Dead
           ,
           which
           is
           mentioned
           by
           
             Minutius
             Felix
          
           ;
           but
           this
           or
           any
           other
           evidences
           ,
           that
           may
           be
           brought
           from
           Medalls
           of
           Consecrations
           after
           this
           time
           ,
           will
           only
           prove
           ,
           that
           some
           were
           still
           Burnt
           ,
           and
           that
           the
           Christians
           practised
           Burying
           Universally
           ,
           as
           
           expressing
           their
           belief
           of
           the
           Resurrection
           ;
           whereas
           the
           Heathens
           held
           the
           thing
           Indifferent
           .
           It
           is
           also
           clear
           ,
           from
           the
           many
           genuine
           Inscriptions
           that
           have
           been
           .
           found
           in
           the
           Catacombs
           ,
           which
           bear
           the
           dates
           of
           the
           Consuls
           ,
           that
           these
           were
           the
           common
           Burial-Places
           of
           all
           the
           Christians
           of
           the
           fourth
           and
           fifth
           Century
           ;
           for
           I
           do
           not
           remember
           ,
           that
           there
           is
           any
           one
           da●e
           that
           is
           Antienter
           ;
           and
           yet
           not
           one
           of
           the
           Writers
           of
           those
           Ages
           speak
           of
           them
           ,
           as
           the
           Work
           of
           the
           
             Primitive
             Christians
          
           .
           They
           speak
           indeed
           of
           the
           Burial-Places
           of
           the
           Martyrs
           ;
           but
           that
           will
           prove
           no
           more
           ,
           but
           that
           ●he
           Christians
           might
           have
           had
           their
           Quarters
           ,
           and
           their
           Walks
           in
           those
           common
           Burial-places
           ,
           where
           they
           laid
           their
           Dead
           ,
           and
           which
           might
           have
           been
           known
           among
           them
           ,
           tho
           it
           is
           not
           likely
           ,
           that
           they
           would
           in
           times
           of
           Perseoution
           make
           such
           Inscriptions
           as
           might
           have
           exposed
           the
           Bodies
           of
           their
           dead
           Friends
           to
           the
           Rage
           of
           their
           Enemies
           .
           And
           the
           Spurious
           Acts
           of
           some
           Saints
           and
           Martyrs
           ,
           are
           of
           too
           little
           credit
           to
           give
           any
           support
           to
           the
           common
           Opinion
           .
           Damasus's
           Poetry●s
           ●s
           of
           no
           better
           Authority
           .
           And
           tho
           those
           Ages
           were
           inclined
           enough
           to
           give
           credit
           to
           Fables
           ,
           yet
           it
           seems
           this
           of
           those
           Catacombs
           ,
           having
           been
           the
           work
           of
           the
           
             Primitive
             Christians
          
           ,
           was
           too
           gross
           a
           thing
           to
           have
           been
           so
           early
           Imposed
           on
           the
           World.
           And
           this
           silence
           in
           an
           Age
           ,
           in
           which
           Superstition
           was
           going
           on
           at
           so
           great
           a
           rate
           ,
           has
           much
           force
           in
           it
           ;
           for
           so
           vast
           a
           Work
           ,
           as
           those
           Catacombs
           are
           ,
           must
           have
           been
           well
           known
           to
           all
           the
           Romans
           .
           It
           were
           easy
           to
           carry
           this
           much
           further
           ,
           and
           to
           shew
           ,
           that
           the
           
             Bas
             Reliefs
          
           ,
           that
           have
           been
           found
           in
           some
           of
           those
           Catacombs
           ,
           have
           nothing
           of
           the
           beauty
           of
           the
           Ancient
           Roman
           time
           .
           This
           is
           also
           more
           discernable
           in
           many
           Inscriptions
           that
           are
           more
           Gothick
           than
           Roman
           ;
           and
           there
           are
           so
           many
           Inscriptions
           relating
           to
           Fables
           ,
           that
           it
           is
           plain
           ,
           these
           were
           of
           later
           times
           ;
           and
           we
           see
           by
           
             Saint
             Ierom
          
           ,
           that
           the
           Monks
           began
           ,
           even
           in
           his
           time
           ,
           to
           drive
           a
           trade
           of
           Reliques
           ;
           so
           it
           is
           no
           wonder
           ,
           that
           to
           raise
           the
           credit
           of
           such
           a
           heap
           ,
           as
           was
           never
           to
           be
           exhausted
           ,
           they
           made
           some
           miserable
           Sculptures
           ,
           and
           some
           Inscriptions
           ;
           
           and
           perhaps
           shut
           up
           the
           entrys
           into
           them
           with
           much
           care
           and
           secresy
           ,
           intending
           to
           open
           them
           upon
           some
           Dream
           or
           other
           Artifice
           ,
           to
           give
           them
           the
           more
           Reputation
           ;
           which
           was
           often
           practised
           in
           order
           to
           the
           drawing
           much
           Wealth
           and
           great
           Devotion
           ,
           even
           to
           some
           single
           Relique
           ;
           and
           a
           few
           being
           upon
           this
           Secret
           ,
           either
           those
           might
           have
           dyed
           ,
           or
           by
           the
           many
           Revolutions
           that
           hapned
           in
           Rome
           ,
           they
           might
           have
           been
           dispersed
           before
           they
           made
           the
           discovery
           :
           And
           thus
           the
           knowledge
           of
           those
           places
           was
           lost
           ,
           and
           ca●e
           to
           be
           discovered
           by
           accident
           in
           the
           last
           Age
           ;
           and
           hath
           ever
           since
           supplied
           them
           with
           an
           inexhaustible
           Magazin
           of
           Bones
           ,
           which
           by
           all
           appearance
           are
           no
           other
           than
           the
           Bones
           of
           the
           
             Pagan
             Romans
          
           ;
           which
           are
           now
           sent
           over
           the
           World
           to
           feed
           a
           Superstition
           ,
           that
           is
           as
           blind
           as
           it
           proves
           expensive
           .
           And
           thus
           the
           Bones
           of
           the
           
             Roman
             Slaves
          
           ,
           or
           at
           least
           ,
           those
           of
           the
           mea●●●
           sort
           ,
           are
           now
           set
           in
           Silver
           and
           Gold
           ,
           with
           a
           great
           deal
           of
           other
           costly
           Garniture
           ,
           and
           entertain
           the
           Superstition
           of
           those
           who
           are
           willing
           to
           be
           deceived
           ,
           as
           well
           as
           they
           serve
           the
           ends
           of
           those
           that
           seek
           to
           deceive
           the
           World.
           But
           because
           it
           cannot
           be
           pretended
           ,
           that
           there
           was
           such
           a
           number
           of
           Christian●
           at
           Naples
           ,
           as
           could
           have
           wrought
           such
           Catacombs
           ,
           and
           if
           it
           had
           been
           once
           thought
           ,
           that
           those
           were
           the
           co●mon
           Burial-places
           of
           the
           ancient
           Heathens
           ,
           that
           might
           have
           induced
           the
           World
           to
           think
           ,
           that
           the
           
             R●man
             Catacombs
          
           were
           no
           other
           ;
           therefore
           there
           hath
           been
           no
           care
           taken
           to
           examin
           these
           .
           I
           thought
           this
           deserved
           a
           large
           discourse
           ,
           and
           therefore
           I
           have
           dwelt
           perhaps
           a
           little
           too
           long
           on
           this
           subject
           .
        
         
           I
           will
           not
           enter
           upon
           a
           long
           description
           of
           that
           which
           is
           so
           well
           known
           ▪
           as
           
             Mont
             Vesuvio
          
           ,
           it
           had
           roared
           soloud
           about
           a
           month
           before
           I
           came
           to
           Naples
           ,
           that
           at
           Naples
           they
           could
           ha●dly
           sleep
           in
           the
           Nights
           ,
           and
           some
           old
           Hous●s
           were
           so
           shaken
           by
           the
           Earthquake
           ,
           that
           was
           occasioned
           by
           this
           convulsion
           of
           the
           Hill
           ,
           that
           they
           fell
           to
           the
           ground
           :
           And
           the
           great
           Convulsion
           above
           
             fifty
             y●ars
          
           ag●
           ,
           was
           so
           terrible
           ,
           ●hat
           there
           was
           no
           small
           fear
           in
           Naples
           ,
           tho
           it
           lyes
           at
           the
           distance
           of
           
             seven
             M●les
          
           from
           the
           Hill
           ,
           yet
           the
           storm
           was
           choaked
           under
           
           ground
           ;
           for
           tho
           it
           smoakt
           much
           more
           than
           ordinary
           ,
           yet
           there
           was
           no
           eruption
           :
           It
           was
           indeed
           smoking
           not
           only
           in
           the
           mouth
           of
           the
           little
           Mount
           ,
           that
           is
           formed
           within
           the
           great
           wast
           that
           the
           fire
           hath
           made
           ,
           but
           also
           all
           along
           the
           bottom
           that
           is
           between
           the
           outward
           mouth
           of
           thi●
           Mountain
           (
           which
           is
           four
           miles
           in
           compass
           )
           and
           that
           inward
           Hill.
           When
           one
           sees
           the
           Mouth
           of
           this
           fire
           ,
           and
           so
           great
           a
           part
           of
           the
           Hill
           which
           is
           covered
           some
           foot
           deep
           with
           ashes
           and
           stones
           of
           a
           metallick
           Composition
           ,
           that
           the
           fire
           throws
           out
           ,
           he
           cannot
           but
           stand
           amazed
           ,
           and
           wonder
           what
           can
           be
           the
           Fuel
           of
           so
           lasting
           a
           Burning
           ,
           that
           hath
           calcined
           so
           much
           matter
           ,
           and
           spewed
           out
           such
           prodigious
           quantities
           .
           It
           is
           plain
           ,
           there
           are
           vast
           Veins
           of
           Sulphur
           all
           along
           in
           this
           Soil
           ,
           and
           it
           seem●
           in
           this
           Mountain
           they
           run
           along
           through
           some
           Mines
           and
           Rocks
           ;
           and
           as
           their
           slow
           consumption
           produceth
           a
           perpetual
           smoke
           ,
           so
           when
           the
           Air
           within
           is
           so
           much
           ratified
           that
           it
           must
           open
           it self
           ,
           it
           throw●
           up
           those
           masses
           of
           Mettle
           and
           Rock
           that
           shut
           it
           in
           ;
           but
           how
           this
           Fire
           draws
           in
           Air
           to
           nourish
           its
           Flame
           ,
           is
           not
           so
           easily
           apprehended
           ,
           unless
           there
           is
           either
           a
           conveyance
           of
           Air
           under
           ground
           ,
           by
           some
           undiscovered
           vacuity
           ,
           or
           a
           more
           insensible
           transmission
           of
           Air
           ,
           through
           the
           pores
           of
           the
           Earth
           .
           The
           heat
           of
           this
           Hill
           operates
           so
           much
           upon
           the
           Soil
           ,
           that
           lyes
           upon
           it
           towards
           the
           foot
           of
           it
           ,
           that
           it
           produceth
           the
           richest
           Wine
           about
           Naples
           ;
           and
           it
           also
           purifieth
           the
           Air
           so
           much
           ,
           that
           the
           Village
           at
           the
           bottom
           is
           thought
           the
           
             best
             Air
          
           of
           the
           Country
           ,
           so
           that
           many
           come
           from
           Naples
           thither
           for
           their
           health
           .
           Ischia
           ,
           that
           is
           an
           Island
           not
           far
           from
           Naples
           ,
           doth
           also
           sometimes
           spew
           out
           fire
           .
        
         
           On
           the
           other
           side
           of
           Naples
           to
           the
           West
           ,
           one
           passeth
           through
           the
           Cave
           that
           pierceth
           the
           Pausalippe
           ,
           and
           is
           four
           hundred
           and
           forty
           paces
           long
           ;
           for
           I
           walked
           it
           on
           foot
           to
           take
           its
           true
           measure
           ;
           it
           is
           twenty
           foot
           broad
           ,
           and
           at
           first
           forty
           foot
           high
           ,
           but
           afterwards
           it
           is
           but
           twenty
           foot
           high
           ;
           the
           Stone
           cut
           out
           here
           is
           good
           for
           building
           ;
           so
           that
           as
           this
           opened
           the
           way
           from
           Puzzoli
           to
           Naples
           ;
           ●t
           
           was
           also
           a
           Quarry
           for
           the
           building
           of
           the
           Town
           :
           All
           along
           the
           way
           here
           ,
           one
           discovers
           a
           strange
           boiling
           within
           the
           ground
           ;
           for
           a
           little
           beyond
           this
           Grot
           of
           Pausalippe
           ,
           as
           we
           ●ome
           near
           the
           Lake
           of
           Aniano
           ,
           there
           is
           of
           the
           one
           Hand
           ,
           ●
           Bath
           ,
           occasioned
           by
           a
           Steam
           that
           riseth
           so
           hot
           out
           of
           the
           ground
           ,
           that
           as
           soon
           as
           one
           goeth
           a
           little
           into
           it
           ,
           he
           finds
           himself
           all
           over
           in
           a
           sweat
           ,
           which
           is
           very
           proper
           for
           some
           Di●eases
           ,
           especially
           that
           which
           carries
           its
           name
           from
           Napl●s
           :
           And
           about
           twenty
           paces
           from
           thence
           ,
           there
           is
           another
           little
           Grot
           ,
           that
           sends
           out
           a
           
             Poysonous
             Steam
          
           ,
           that
           as
           〈◊〉
           put
           out
           a
           Candle
           ,
           as
           soon
           as
           it
           cometh
           near
           it
           ,
           so
           it
           infallibly
           killeth
           any
           living
           Creature
           within
           a
           minute
           of
           time
           ;
           for
           in
           half
           that
           time
           a
           Dog
           upon
           which
           the
           Experiment
           is
           commonly
           try'd
           (
           the
           Grot
           being
           from
           thence
           called
           
             Grotto
             di
             Cane
          
           )
           fell
           into
           a
           convulsion
           .
           From
           that
           one
           goeth
           to
           see
           the
           poor
           Rests
           of
           Puzzoli
           ,
           and
           of
           all
           that
           Bay
           ,
           that
           was
           once
           all
           about
           a
           tract
           of
           Towns
           ,
           it
           having
           been
           the
           retreat
           of
           the
           Romans
           ,
           during
           the
           heats
           of
           the
           Summer
           .
           All
           the
           Rarities
           here
           ,
           have
           been
           so
           often
           ,
           and
           so
           cop●ously
           described
           ,
           that
           I
           am
           sensible
           I
           can
           add
           nothing
           to
           what
           is
           so
           well
           known
           .
           I
           will
           say
           nothing
           of
           the
           Amphitheater
           ,
           or
           of
           Cicero
           and
           Virgils
           Houses
           ,
           for
           which
           there
           is
           nothing
           but
           a
           dubious
           tradition
           ;
           they
           are
           ancient
           brick
           buildings
           of
           the
           Roman
           way
           ,
           and
           the
           vaults
           of
           
             Virgil's
             House
          
           are
           still
           intire
           :
           The
           Sulfatara
           is
           a
           surprizing
           thing
           ;
           here
           is
           a
           bottom
           ,
           out
           of
           which
           the
           force
           of
           the
           Fire
           ,
           that
           breaks
           out
           still
           ●n
           many
           places
           ,
           in
           a
           thick
           steaming
           smoke
           ,
           that
           is
           full
           of
           Brimstone
           ,
           did
           throw
           up
           about
           a
           hundred
           and
           fifty
           years
           ago
           ,
           a
           vast
           quantity
           of
           Earth
           ,
           which
           was
           carried
           above
           thre
           miles
           thence
           ,
           and
           formed
           the
           Hill
           called
           
             Monte
             Novo
          
           ,
           upon
           the
           Ruins
           of
           a
           Town
           ,
           that
           was
           overwhelmed
           with
           this
           Eruption
           ;
           which
           is
           of
           a
           very
           considerable
           height
           ;
           they
           told
           me
           ,
           that
           there
           was
           before
           that
           time
           a
           Channel
           ,
           that
           went
           from
           the
           Bay
           into
           the
           
             Lake
             of
             Averno
          
           ,
           of
           which
           one
           sees
           the
           beginnings
           in
           the
           Bay
           at
           some
           distance
           from
           the
           shore
           ,
           it
           carrieth
           still
           the
           name
           of
           
             Iulio's
             Mole
          
           ,
           and
           is
           believed
           to
           have
           been
           made
           by
           
             Iulius
             Caesar.
          
           But
           by
           the
           swelling
           of
           the
           ground
           upon
           the
           Eruption
           of
           the
           Sulsatara
           ,
           
           this
           passage
           is
           stopt
           ,
           and
           the
           Averno
           is
           now
           fresh
           Water
           ;
           it
           is
           eighteen
           fathom
           deep
           On
           the
           side
           of
           it
           is
           that
           amazing
           Cave
           ,
           where
           the
           Sybil
           is
           said
           to
           have
           given
           out
           her
           In●pirations
           :
           the
           hewing
           it
           out
           of
           the
           Rock
           ,
           hath
           been
           a
           prodigious
           Work
           ;
           for
           the
           Rock
           is
           one
           of
           the
           hardest
           Stones
           in
           the
           World
           ,
           and
           the
           Cave
           goeth
           in
           seven
           hundred
           foot
           long
           ,
           twenty
           foot
           broad
           ,
           and
           as
           I
           could
           guess
           ,
           eighteen
           foo●
           high
           :
           and
           from
           the
           end
           of
           this
           great
           G●llery
           ,
           there
           is
           a
           narrow
           passage
           of
           three
           foot
           broad
           ,
           two
           hundred
           foot
           long
           ,
           and
           seven
           high
           ,
           to
           a
           little
           apartment
           ,
           to
           which
           we
           go
           in
           a
           constant
           sloping
           descent
           from
           the
           great
           Cav●
           ;
           here
           are
           three
           little
           rooms
           ,
           in
           one
           of
           them
           there
           are
           some
           Rests
           of
           an
           Old
           Mosaick
           ,
           with
           which
           the
           Walls
           and
           Roof
           were
           laid
           over
           ;
           there
           is
           also
           a
           spring
           of
           Water
           ,
           and
           a
           B●th
           ,
           in
           which
           it
           is
           supposed
           the
           Sybil
           bathed
           her self
           ;
           and
           from
           this
           Cave
           it
           is
           said
           ,
           that
           there
           runs
           a
           Cave
           all
           along
           to
           Cuma
           ,
           which
           is
           three
           long
           miles
           ,
           but
           the
           passage
           is
           now
           choakt
           by
           the
           falling
           in
           of
           the
           Rock
           in
           several
           places
           :
           This
           piece
           of
           Work
           amazed
           me
           ;
           I
           did
           not
           much
           min●
           the
           popular
           opinion
           that
           is
           easily
           received
           there
           ▪
           that
           all
           this
           was
           done
           by
           the
           Devil
           ;
           the
           marks
           of
           the
           Chizzel
           in
           all
           the
           parts
           of
           the
           Rock
           sheweth
           ,
           that
           this
           is
           not
           a
           work
           of
           Nature
           .
           Certainly
           they
           had
           both
           much
           leisure
           ,
           and
           many
           hands
           at
           their
           command
           who
           set
           about
           it
           ;
           and
           it
           seems
           to
           have
           been
           wrought
           out
           with
           no
           other
           design
           ,
           but
           to
           subdue
           the
           People
           more
           intirely
           to
           the
           conduct
           of
           the
           Priests
           that
           managed
           this
           Imposture
           ;
           so
           busie
           and
           industrious
           hath
           the
           Ambition
           and
           Fraud
           of
           the
           Priests
           been
           in
           all
           Ages
           ,
           and
           in
           all
           corrupt
           Religions
           .
           But
           of
           all
           the
           S●enes
           of
           Noble
           Objects
           that
           present
           it self
           in
           the
           Bay
           of
           Puzzolo
           ,
           the
           Rests
           of
           
             Caligula's
             Bridge
          
           are
           the
           most
           amazing
           ;
           for
           there
           are
           yet
           standing
           ei●ht
           or
           ten
           of
           the
           Pillars
           that
           supported
           the
           Arches
           ,
           and
           of
           some
           of
           the
           Arches
           ,
           the
           half
           is
           yet
           intire
           .
           I
           had
           not
           a
           line
           with
           me
           to
           examine
           the
           dep●h
           of
           the
           Water
           where
           the
           ●urthest
           of
           those
           Pillars
           is
           built
           ;
           but
           my
           Waterman
           assured
           me
           ,
           it
           was
           fifty
           Cubits
           .
           I
           have
           since
           my
           being
           in
           Naples
           ,
           instructed
           one
           that
           was
           going
           thither
           in
           this
           particular
           ,
           and
           
           have
           received
           this
           account
           from
           him
           ;
           that
           he
           had
           taken
           care
           to
           plum
           the
           water
           at
           the
           furthest
           pillar
           of
           
             Caligula's
             bridge
          
           ,
           on
           the
           Puzzolo
           side
           ;
           and
           sound
           it
           was
           seven
           fathom
           and
           a
           half
           deep
           :
           but
           he
           adds
           ,
           that
           the
           Watermen
           assured
           him
           ,
           that
           on
           the
           other
           side
           before
           Baia
           ,
           the
           water
           was
           twenty
           six
           fathom
           deep
           :
           but
           as
           he
           had
           not
           a
           plummet
           long
           enough
           to
           try
           that
           ,
           so
           he
           believed
           a
           good
           deal
           ought
           to
           be
           abated
           ;
           for
           the
           Watermen
           had
           assured
           him
           ▪
           that
           the
           Water
           was
           ten
           fathom
           deep
           on
           the
           Puzzoli
           side
           ,
           tho
           upon
           tryal
           he
           found
           it
           was
           only
           seven
           and
           a
           half
           :
           and
           by
           this
           measure
           one
           may
           suppose
           that
           the
           water
           is
           twenty
           fathom
           deep
           on
           the
           other
           side
           :
           so
           that
           it
           is
           one
           of
           the
           most
           astonishing
           things
           that
           one
           can
           think
           of
           ,
           that
           
             pillars
             of
             Bri●k
          
           could
           have
           been
           built
           in
           such
           a
           depth
           of
           water
           ,
           and
           for
           the
           carrying
           off
           of
           the
           Sea
           ,
           that
           seems
           yet
           more
           impossible
           .
           It
           is
           a
           Noble
           Monument
           of
           the
           profuse
           and
           extravagant
           Expence
           of
           a
           
             Brutal
             Tyrant
          
           ,
           who
           made
           one
           of
           the
           vastest
           Bridges
           that
           ever
           was
           attempted
           ,
           over
           three
           or
           four
           Miles
           of
           Sea
           ,
           meerly
           to
           sacrifice
           so
           great
           a
           Treasure
           to
           his
           Vanity
           :
           As
           for
           
             Agripina's
             Tomb
          
           ,
           it
           is
           no
           great
           matter
           ,
           only
           the
           
             Bas
             Reliefs
          
           are
           yet
           entire
           .
           The
           marvellous
           Fish-Pond
           is
           a
           great
           Basin
           of
           Water
           ,
           wrought
           like
           a
           huge
           Temple
           ,
           standing
           upon
           eight
           and
           forty
           great
           Pillars
           ,
           all
           hewed
           out
           of
           the
           Rock
           ;
           and
           they
           are
           laid
           over
           with
           four
           crusts
           of
           the
           old
           Plaister
           ,
           which
           is
           now
           as
           hard
           as
           stone
           ;
           this
           is
           believed
           to
           be
           a
           work
           of
           Nero'●
           :
           and
           about
           a
           quarter
           of
           a
           mile
           from
           thence
           ,
           there
           is
           another
           vast
           work
           ,
           which
           goeth
           into
           a
           Ro●k
           ;
           but
           at
           the
           entrance
           there
           is
           a
           noble
           Portico
           built
           of
           
             Pillars
             of
             Brick
          
           ;
           and
           as
           one
           enters
           into
           the
           Rock
           ,
           he
           finds
           a
           great
           many
           rooms
           regularly
           shaped
           ,
           hewed
           out
           of
           the
           Ro●k
           ,
           and
           all
           covered
           over
           with
           Pla●ster
           ,
           which
           is
           still
           intire
           ,
           and
           so
           white
           that
           one
           can
           hardly
           think
           that
           it
           hath
           not
           been
           washed
           over
           since
           it
           was
           first
           made
           ;
           there
           are
           a
           vast
           number
           of
           those
           Rooms
           ,
           they
           are
           said
           to
           be
           a
           hundred
           ;
           from
           whence
           this
           Cave
           carrieth
           the
           name
           of
           the
           
             Centum
             Camera
          
           :
           This
           hath
           been
           as
           expensive
           a
           work
           as
           it
           is
           useless
           ;
           it
           is
           intituled
           to
           Nero
           ,
           and
           here
           they
           say
           he
           kept
           his
           Prisoners
           .
           
           But
           there
           is
           nothing
           in
           all
           this
           Bay
           that
           is
           both
           so
           curio●●
           and
           so
           useful
           as
           the
           Baths
           ,
           which
           seem
           to
           flow
           from
           the
           same
           reason
           that
           is
           the
           cause
           of
           these
           Eruptions
           in
           he
           Vesuvio
           and
           Sulfatara
           ,
           and
           the
           Grottos
           formerly
           mentioned
           ,
           that
           as
           this
           heat
           makes
           some
           Fountains
           there
           to
           be
           
             boiling
             hot
          
           ,
           so
           it
           sends
           up
           a
           steam
           through
           the
           Rock
           ,
           that
           doth
           not
           break
           through
           the
           pores
           of
           the
           Stone
           where
           it
           is
           hard
           ▪
           but
           where
           the
           Rock
           is
           soft
           and
           spungy
           ,
           there
           the
           steam●
           come
           through
           with
           so
           melting
           a
           heat
           ,
           that
           a
           man
           is
           soon
           ,
           as
           it
           were
           ,
           dissolved
           in
           sweat
           ;
           but
           if
           he
           stoops
           low
           in
           the
           passages
           that
           are
           cut
           in
           the
           Rock
           ,
           he
           finds
           no
           heat
           ,
           because
           there
           the
           Rock
           is
           hard
           .
           Those
           Steams
           ,
           as
           they
           are
           all
           Hot
           ,
           so
           they
           are
           impregnated
           with
           such
           Minerals
           as
           they
           find
           in
           their
           way
           through
           the
           Rock
           ;
           and
           near
           this
           Bath
           there
           are
           Galleries
           hewed
           out
           the
           Rock
           ,
           and
           faced
           with
           a
           building
           ;
           in
           which
           there
           are
           ,
           as
           it
           were
           ,
           Bedsteads
           made
           in
           the
           Walls
           ,
           upon
           which
           ,
           those
           that
           come
           thither
           ,
           to
           sweat
           for
           their
           health
           ,
           lay
           their
           Quilts
           and
           Bed-cloaths
           ,
           and
           so
           come
           regularly
           out
           of
           their
           sweats
           .
        
         
           It
           is
           certain
           ,
           that
           a
           man
           can
           no
           where
           pass
           a
           day
           of
           his
           life
           ,
           both
           with
           so
           much
           pleasure
           ,
           and
           with
           such
           advantage
           ,
           as
           he
           finds
           in
           this
           journey
           to
           Puzzoli
           ,
           and
           all
           along
           the
           Bay
           :
           but
           tho
           an●iently
           this
           was
           all
           so
           well
           built
           ,
           so
           peopled
           ,
           and
           so
           beautifully
           laid
           out
           ,
           yet
           no
           where
           doth
           one
           see
           more
           visibly
           what
           a
           change
           Time
           brings
           upon
           all
           places
           :
           for
           Naples
           hath
           so
           intirely
           eat
           out
           this
           place
           ,
           and
           drawn
           its
           Inhabitants
           to
           it
           ,
           that
           as
           Puzzoli
           it self
           is
           but
           a
           small
           Village
           ,
           so
           there
           is
           now
           no
           other
           in
           all
           this
           Bay
           ,
           which
           was
           anciently
           built
           almost
           all
           round
           ;
           for
           there
           were
           seven
           big
           Towns
           upon
           it
           .
           Having
           thus
           told
           you
           what
           I
           found
           most
           considerable
           in
           Naples
           ,
           I
           cannot
           pass
           by
           that
           Noble
           remnant
           of
           the
           
             Via
             Apia
          
           ,
           that
           runs
           along
           thirty
           miles
           of
           the
           Way
           between
           it
           and
           Rome
           ,
           without
           making
           some
           mention
           of
           it
           :
           this
           Higb-way
           is
           twelve
           foot
           broad
           ,
           all
           made
           of
           huge
           Stones
           ,
           most
           of
           them
           blew
           ,
           and
           they
           are
           generally
           a
           soot
           and
           half
           large
           of
           all
           sides
           :
           the
           strength
           of
           this
           Causeway
           appears
           in
           its
           long
           duration
           ,
           for
           it
           hath
           lasted
           above
           eighteen
           hundred
           Years
           ;
           and
           is
           in
           most
           places
           
           for
           several
           miles
           together
           ,
           as
           intire
           as
           when
           it
           was
           first
           made
           :
           and
           the
           Botches
           that
           have
           been
           made
           for
           mending
           such
           places
           ,
           that
           have
           been
           worn
           out
           by
           time
           ,
           shews
           a
           very
           visible
           difference
           between
           the
           ancient
           and
           the
           modern
           way
           of
           paving
           .
           One
           thing
           seems
           strange
           ,
           that
           the
           ●ay
           is
           level
           with
           the
           earth
           on
           both
           sides
           :
           whereas
           so
           much
           weight
           as
           those
           Stones
           carry
           ,
           should
           have
           sunk
           the
           ground
           under
           them
           by
           its
           pressure
           :
           Besides
           ,
           that
           the
           Earth
           ,
           especially
           in
           low
           grounds
           ,
           receives
           a
           constant
           increase
           ,
           chiefly
           by
           the
           dust
           which
           the
           Winds
           or
           Brooks
           carry
           down
           from
           the
           Hills
           ,
           both
           which
           Reasons
           should
           make
           a
           more
           sensible
           difference
           between
           those
           Wayes
           and
           the
           So●l
           on
           both
           sides
           :
           and
           this
           makes
           me
           apt
           to
           believe
           ,
           that
           anciently
           those
           Wayes
           were
           a
           little
           raised
           above
           the
           level
           of
           the
           ground
           ,
           and
           that
           a
           course
           of
           so
           many
           Ages
           hath
           now
           brought
           them
           to
           an
           equality
           :
           Those
           Wayes
           were
           chiefly
           made
           for
           such
           as
           go
           on
           foot
           :
           for
           as
           nothing
           is
           more
           pleasant
           ,
           than
           to
           walk
           along
           them
           ,
           so
           nothing
           is
           more
           inconvenient
           for
           Horses
           and
           all
           sorts
           of
           Carriage
           ;
           and
           indeed
           Mulets
           are
           the
           only
           Beasts
           of
           burthen
           that
           can
           bold
           out
           long
           in
           this
           Road
           ,
           which
           beats
           all
           Horses
           after
           they
           have
           gone
           it
           a
           little
           while
           .
           There
           are
           several
           Rests
           of
           
             Roman
             Aniiquities
          
           at
           the
           
             Mole
             of
             Cajeta
          
           ;
           but
           the
           
             Isle
             of
             Caprea
          
           ,
           now
           called
           Crapa
           ,
           which
           is
           a
           little
           way
           into
           the
           Sea
           off
           from
           Naples
           ,
           gave
           me
           a
           strange
           Idea
           of
           Tibe●ius's
           Reign
           ,
           since
           it
           is
           hard
           to
           tell
           ,
           whether
           it
           was
           more
           extraordinary
           ,
           to
           see
           a
           Prince
           abandon
           the
           best
           Seats
           and
           Palaces
           of
           Italy
           ,
           and
           shut
           himself
           up
           in
           a
           little
           Island
           ,
           in
           which
           I
           was
           told
           ,
           there
           was
           a
           tradition
           of
           seven
           little
           Palaces
           that
           he
           built
           in
           it
           ;
           or
           to
           see
           so
           vast
           a
           body
           as
           the
           
             Roman
             Empire
          
           so
           governed
           by
           such
           a
           
             Tyrannical
             Prin●●
          
           ,
           at
           such
           a
           distance
           from
           the
           chief
           Seat
           ,
           so
           that
           all
           might
           have
           been
           reversed
           long
           before
           that
           the
           News
           of
           it
           could
           have
           been
           brought
           to
           him
           .
           And
           as
           there
           is
           nothing
           more
           wonderful
           in
           Story
           ,
           than
           to
           see
           so
           vast
           a
           State
           ,
           that
           had
           so
           great
           a
           sense
           of
           liberty
           ,
           subdued
           by
           so
           brutal
           ,
           and
           so
           voluptious
           a
           Man
           as
           Anthony
           ,
           and
           so
           raw
           a
           Youth
           as
           Au●●stus
           ;
           so
           the
           wonder
           is
           much
           improved
           ,
           when
           we
           see
           a
           
           Prince
           at
           a
           hundred
           and
           fifty
           Miles
           distance
           ,
           shut
           up
           i●
           an
           Island
           ,
           carry
           the
           Reins
           of
           so
           great
           a
           Body
           in
           his
           hand
           ,
           and
           turn
           it
           which
           way
           he
           pleased
           .
        
         
           But
           now
           I
           come
           to
           Rome
           ,
           which
           as
           it
           was
           once
           the
           Empress
           of
           the
           World
           ;
           in
           a
           succession
           of
           many
           Ages
           ,
           so
           hath
           in
           it
           at
           present
           more
           
             ●urious
             things
          
           to
           entertain
           the
           attention
           of
           a
           Traveller
           ,
           than
           any
           other
           place
           in
           Europe
           .
           On
           the
           side
           of
           Tuscany
           ,
           the
           entry
           into
           Rome
           is
           very
           surprizing
           to
           Srrangers
           ;
           for
           one
           cometh
           along
           for
           a
           great
           many
           miles
           ,
           upon
           the
           remains
           of
           the
           
             Via
             Flamminis
          
           ,
           which
           is
           not
           indeed
           so
           entire
           as
           the
           
             Via
             Appia
          
           ;
           yet
           there
           is
           enough
           left
           to
           raise
           a
           just
           Idea
           of
           the
           Roman
           Greatness
           ,
           who
           laid
           such
           Causewayes
           all
           Italy
           over
           .
           And
           within
           the
           Gate
           of
           the
           
             Porta
             di
             Populo
          
           ,
           there
           is
           a
           Noble
           Obelisk
           ,
           〈◊〉
           vast
           Founta●n
           ;
           two
           fine
           little
           Churches
           ,
           like
           two
           twins
           ,
           resembling
           one
           another
           ,
           as
           well
           as
           placed
           near
           one
           another
           ,
           and
           on
           several
           hands
           one
           sees
           a
           long
           Vista
           of
           Streets
           .
           There
           is
           not
           a
           Town
           in
           these
           parts
           of
           the
           World
           ,
           wher●
           the
           
             Churches
             ,
             Convents
          
           ,
           and
           Palaces
           are
           so
           Noble
           ,
           an●
           wbere
           the
           other
           Buildings
           are
           so
           mean
           ;
           which
           indee●
           discovers
           very
           visibly
           the
           Misery
           under
           which
           the
           Rom●●
           groan
           .
           The
           
             Churches
             of
             Rome
          
           are
           so
           well
           known
           ,
           tha●
           〈◊〉
           will
           not
           adventure
           on
           any
           description
           of
           them
           ,
           and
           indee●
           I
           had
           too
           transcient
           a
           view
           of
           them
           ,
           to
           make
           it
           with
           th●
           degree
           of
           exactness
           which
           the
           subject
           requires
           .
           
             S.
             Pet●●
          
           alone
           would
           make
           a
           big
           Book
           ,
           not
           to
           say
           a
           long
           Lette●
           ▪
           Its
           length
           ,
           height
           ,
           and
           breadth
           are
           all
           so
           exactly
           propo●tioned
           ,
           and
           the
           eye
           is
           so
           equally
           possessed
           with
           all
           these
           that
           the
           whole
           ,
           upon
           the
           first
           view
           ,
           doth
           not
           appear●
           vast
           as
           it
           is
           found
           to
           be
           upon
           a
           more
           particular
           attentio●
           and
           as
           the
           four
           Pillars
           ,
           upon
           which
           the
           Cupulo
           rises
           are
           of
           such
           a
           prodigious
           bigness
           ,
           that
           one
           would
           thi●●
           they
           were
           strong
           enough
           to
           bear
           any
           superstructure
           wha●soever
           ;
           so
           when
           one
           climbs
           up
           to
           the
           top
           of
           that
           〈◊〉
           height
           ,
           he
           wonders
           what
           Foundation
           can
           bear
           so
           hug●
           a
           weight
           ;
           for
           as
           the
           Church
           is
           of
           a
           vast
           height
           ,
           so
           〈◊〉
           Cupulo
           rises
           four
           hundred
           and
           fifteen
           big
           steps
           above
           〈◊〉
           Ro●f
           of
           the
           Church
           .
           In
           the
           height
           of
           the
           Concave
           of
           〈◊〉
           
           Cupulo
           ,
           there
           is
           a
           representation
           ,
           that
           tho
           it
           can
           hardly
           be
           seen
           from
           the
           floor
           below
           ,
           unless
           one
           hath
           a
           good
           sight
           ,
           and
           so
           it
           doth
           not
           perhaps
           give
           much
           scandal
           ,
           yet
           it
           is
           a
           gross
           indication
           of
           the
           Idolatry
           of
           that
           Church
           ;
           for
           the
           Divinity
           is
           there
           pictured
           as
           an
           
             antient
             man
          
           compassed
           about
           with
           Angels
           .
           I
           will
           say
           nothing
           of
           the
           great
           Altar
           ,
           of
           the
           Chair
           of
           S.
           Peter
           ;
           of
           the
           great
           Tombs
           ,
           of
           which
           ,
           the
           three
           chief
           are
           those
           for
           Paul
           the
           III.
           Vrban
           the
           VIII
           .
           and
           Alexander
           the
           VII
           .
           nor
           of
           the
           vast
           Vaults
           under
           this
           Church
           ,
           and
           the
           Remains
           of
           Antiquity
           that
           are
           reserved
           in
           them
           :
           nor
           will
           I
           undertake
           a
           description
           of
           the
           adjoy-ning
           Pala●e
           ,
           where
           the
           painting
           of
           the
           Corridori
           ,
           and
           of
           many
           of
           the
           Rooms
           ,
           by
           Raphael
           and
           
             Mi●hael
             Angelo
          
           are
           so
           rich
           ,
           that
           one
           is
           sorty
           to
           see
           a
           wo●k
           of
           that
           value
           laid
           on
           Fresco
           ,
           and
           which
           must
           by
           consequence
           wear
           out
           too
           soon
           ,
           as
           in
           several
           places
           it
           is
           almost
           quite
           lost
           already
           .
           I
           could
           not
           but
           observe
           in
           the
           
             Sala
             Regia
          
           ,
           that
           is
           before
           the
           famous
           Chappel
           of
           Sisto
           V.
           and
           that
           is
           all
           painted
           in
           Fresco
           ,
           one
           corner
           that
           represents
           the
           Marther
           of
           the
           renowned
           
             Admiral
             Chastilion
          
           ▪
           and
           that
           hath
           written
           under
           it
           those
           words
           ,
           
             Rex
             Colinii
             necem
             probat
          
           :
           The
           vast
           length
           of
           the
           Gallery
           on
           one
           side
           ,
           and
           of
           the
           Library
           on
           another
           ,
           do
           surprize
           one
           ;
           the
           Gardens
           have
           many
           Statues
           of
           a
           most
           excessive
           value
           ,
           and
           some
           good
           Fountains
           ;
           but
           the
           Gardens
           are
           ill
           maintained
           both
           here
           ,
           and
           in
           the
           Palace
           on
           the
           Quirinal
           .
           And
           indeed
           ,
           in
           most
           of
           the
           Palaces
           of
           Rome
           ,
           if
           there
           were
           but
           a
           small
           cost
           laid
           out
           to
           keep
           all
           in
           good
           case
           ,
           that
           is
           brought
           together
           at
           so
           vast
           a
           charge
           ,
           they
           would
           make
           another
           sort
           of
           shew
           ,
           and
           be
           looked
           at
           with
           much
           more
           pleasure
           .
           In
           the
           Apartments
           of
           Rome
           there
           are
           a
           great
           many
           things
           that
           offend
           the
           sight
           :
           The
           Doors
           are
           generally
           mean
           ,
           and
           the
           Locks
           meaner
           ,
           except
           in
           the
           Palace
           o●
           
             Prince
             Borghese
          
           ,
           where
           as
           there
           is
           the
           vastest
           collection
           of
           the
           best
           Pie●es
           ,
           and
           of
           the
           hands
           of
           the
           greatest
           Masters
           that
           are
           in
           all
           Europr
           ,
           so
           the
           Doo●s
           and
           Locks
           give
           not
           that
           ●istast
           to
           the
           eye
           ,
           that
           one
           finds
           elsewhere
           .
           The
           ●looring
           of
           the
           Palaces
           is
           all
           of
           Brick
           ,
           which
           is
           so
           
           very
           mean
           ,
           that
           one
           sees
           the
           disproportion
           that
           is
           between
           the
           Floors
           and
           the
           rest
           of
           the
           Room
           ,
           not
           witho●●
           a
           sensible
           perception
           and
           dislike
           .
           It
           is
           true
           ,
           they
           say
           ,
           their
           Air
           is
           so
           cold
           and
           moist
           in
           Winter
           ,
           that
           they
           cannot
           pave
           with
           Marbl●
           ;
           and
           the
           heat
           is
           sometimes
           so
           great
           in
           Summer
           ,
           that
           Flooring
           of
           Wood
           would
           crack
           with
           heat
           ,
           as
           well
           as
           be
           eat
           up
           by
           the
           vermin
           that
           would
           nestle
           in
           it
           .
           But
           if
           they
           kept
           in
           their
           great
           Palaces
           servant●
           to
           wash
           their
           Floors
           ,
           with
           that
           care
           that
           is
           used
           in
           Holland
           ,
           where
           the
           Air
           is
           moister
           ,
           and
           the
           Clima●e
           is
           more
           productive
           of
           Vermine
           ,
           they
           would
           not
           find
           such
           effects
           from
           wooden
           floors
           ,
           as
           they
           pretend
           .
           In
           ●
           word
           ,
           there
           are
           none
           that
           lay
           out
           so
           much
           Wealth
           all
           as
           once
           ,
           as
           the
           Italians
           do
           ,
           upon
           the
           building
           and
           finishin●
           of
           their
           Palaces
           and
           Gardens
           ,
           and
           that
           afterwards
           besto●
           so
           little
           on
           the
           preserving
           of
           them
           :
           another
           thing
           I
           observed
           in
           their
           Palaces
           ;
           there
           is
           indeed
           a
           great
           series
           of
           Noble
           Rooms
           one
           within
           another
           ,
           of
           which
           their
           Apartmen●●
           are
           composed
           ;
           but
           I
           did
           not
           find
           ,
           at
           the
           end
           of
           the
           Apartments
           ,
           where
           the
           Bed-Chamber
           is
           ,
           such
           a
           dispositio●
           of
           rooms
           for
           Back-stairs
           ,
           Dressing-rooms
           ,
           Closets
           ,
           Servants
           rooms
           ,
           and
           other
           Conveniences
           as
           are
           necessary
           for
           accommodating
           the
           Apartment
           .
           It
           is
           true
           ,
           this
           is
           not
           so
           necessary
           for
           an
           apartment
           of
           State
           ,
           in
           which
           Magnifice●●
           is
           more
           considered
           than
           Convenience
           ;
           but
           I
           found
           the
           fam●
           want
           in
           those
           Apartment●
           in
           which
           they
           lodged
           ;
           so
           that
           notwithstanding
           all
           the
           Riches
           of
           their
           Palaces
           ,
           it
           canno●
           be
           said
           ,
           that
           they
           are
           well
           lodged
           in
           them
           ;
           and
           their
           G●●dens
           are
           yet
           less
           understood
           ,
           and
           worse
           kept
           than
           th●●
           Palaces
           .
           It
           is
           true
           ,
           the
           
             Villa
             Borghese
          
           ought
           to
           be
           excepted
           ,
           where
           ,
           as
           there
           is
           a
           prodigious
           collection
           of
           
             Bas
             ●●liefs
          
           ,
           with
           which
           the
           Walls
           are
           ,
           as
           it
           were
           ,
           covered
           al●
           over
           ,
           that
           are
           of
           a
           vast
           value
           ;
           so
           the
           Statues
           within
           ,
           of
           which
           some
           are
           of
           Porphiry
           ,
           and
           others
           of
           Tou●hstone
           ,
           ar●
           amazing
           things
           :
           The
           whole
           ground
           of
           this
           Park
           ,
           which
           is
           about
           three
           miles
           in
           compass
           ,
           and
           in
           which
           there
           are
           〈◊〉
           or
           seven
           Lodges
           ,
           are
           laid
           out
           so
           sweetly
           ,
           that
           I
           thoug●●
           I
           was
           in
           an
           
             English
             Park
          
           when
           I
           walked
           over
           it
           .
           The
           
           
             Villa
             Pamphilia
          
           is
           better
           scituated
           ,
           upon
           a
           higher
           ground
           ▪
           and
           hath
           more
           Waterworks
           ,
           and
           twice
           the
           extent
           of
           the
           other
           in
           Soil
           ,
           but
           neither
           doth
           the
           House
           nor
           Statues
           approach
           to
           the
           Riches
           of
           the
           other
           ,
           nor
           are
           the
           grounds
           so
           well
           laid
           out
           and
           so
           well
           kept
           .
           But
           for
           the
           Furniture
           of
           the
           Palaces
           of
           Rome
           ,
           the
           publick
           Apartments
           are
           all
           covered
           over
           with
           Pictures
           ;
           and
           for
           those
           Apartments
           in
           which
           they
           lodge
           ,
           they
           are
           generally
           furnished
           either
           with
           red
           Velvet
           ,
           or
           red
           Damask
           ,
           with
           a
           broad
           gold
           Galloon
           at
           every
           breadth
           of
           the
           stuff
           ,
           and
           a
           gold
           Fringe
           at
           top
           and
           bottom
           ;
           but
           there
           is
           very
           little
           Tapistry
           in
           Italy
           .
        
         
           I
           have
           been
           carried
           into
           all
           this
           digression
           ,
           from
           the
           ●eneral
           view
           ,
           that
           I
           was
           giving
           you
           of
           the
           
             Popes
             P●lace
          
           .
           I
           ●amed
           one
           part
           of
           it
           ,
           which
           will
           ingage
           me
           into
           a
           new
           di●●ession
           ,
           as
           it
           well
           deserves
           one
           ,
           and
           that
           is
           ,
           the
           Library
           of
           ●●e
           Vatican
           .
           The
           Case
           is
           great
           ,
           but
           that
           which
           is
           lodged
           in
           i●
           ,
           is
           much
           greater
           ;
           for
           here
           is
           a
           collection
           of
           Books
           that
           filleth
           a
           mans
           eye
           :
           There
           is
           first
           a
           great
           Hall
           ,
           and
           at
           the
           end
           of
           it
           there
           runs
           out
           on
           both
           sides
           ,
           two
           Galleries
           of
           so
           vast
           a
           length
           ,
           that
           tho
           the
           half
           of
           them
           is
           already
           furnished
           with
           Books
           ,
           yet
           one
           would
           hope
           that
           there
           is
           room
           left
           for
           more
           new
           Books
           than
           the
           World
           will
           ever
           produce
           .
           The
           
             Heidelberg
             Library
          
           stands
           by
           it self
           ,
           and
           filleth
           the
           one
           ●●de
           of
           the
           Gallery
           ,
           as
           the
           Duke
           of
           Vrbi●s
           Library
           of
           ●●●uscripts
           filleth
           the
           other
           .
           But
           tho
           these
           last
           are
           very
           〈◊〉
           &
           beautiful
           ,
           yet
           they
           are
           not
           of
           such
           Antiquity
           as
           those
           of
           Heidelberg
           .
           When
           it
           appeared
           that
           I
           was
           come
           from
           ●●gland
           ,
           King
           Henry
           the
           VIII's
           Book
           of
           the
           
             Seven
             Sa●raments
          
           ,
           with
           an
           Inscription
           writ
           upon
           it
           with
           his
           own
           Hand
           to
           
             Pope
             Leo
          
           the
           X.
           was
           shewed
           me
           ;
           together
           with
           a
           collection
           of
           some
           Letters
           that
           he
           writ
           to
           
             An●a
             Bolen
          
           ,
           of
           which
           some
           are
           in
           English
           ,
           and
           some
           in
           French.
           I
           ,
           that
           ●●ew
           his
           Hand
           well
           ,
           saw
           clearly
           that
           they
           were
           no
           Forgeries
           .
           There
           are
           not
           many
           
             Latin
             Manuscripts
          
           of
           great
           Anti●●●ty
           in
           this
           Library
           ;
           some
           few
           of
           Virgils
           I
           saw
           writ
           in
           Capitals
           .
           But
           that
           which
           took
           up
           almost
           half
           of
           one
           day
           ●●at
           I
           spent
           at
           one
           time
           in
           this
           place
           ,
           related
           to
           the
           present
           ●●●pute
           that
           is
           on
           foot
           between
           
             Mr.
             Sch●lstrat
          
           the
           Library-keeper
           ,
           
           and
           
             Mr.
             Maimbou●g
          
           ,
           concerning
           the
           
             Council
             of
             Constance
          
           .
           The
           two
           Points
           in
           debate
           are
           the
           Words
           of
           the
           Decree
           made
           in
           the
           
             fourth
             Session
          
           ,
           and
           the
           P●pes
           Confirmation
           .
           In
           the
           
             fo●rth
             Session
          
           ,
           according
           to
           the
           Fre●c●
           Manuscripts
           ,
           a
           Decree
           was
           made
           ,
           subjecting
           the
           Pope
           ,
           and
           all
           other
           Persons
           whatsoever
           ,
           
             to
             the
             Authority
             of
             th●
             Council
             ,
          
           and
           to
           the
           Decrees
           it
           was
           to
           make
           ,
           and
           to
           the
           Reformation
           it
           intended
           to
           establish
           both
           in
           the
           Head
           and
           the
           Memb●rs
           ;
           which
           as
           it
           implyes
           ,
           that
           the
           Head
           was
           corrupted
           ,
           and
           needed
           to
           be
           reformed
           ,
           so
           it
           sets
           th●
           Council
           so
           directly
           a●ove
           the
           Pope
           ,
           that
           this
           Session
           being
           confirmed
           by
           the
           Pope
           ,
           putteth
           those
           wbo
           assert
           the
           
             Pop●●
             Infallibility
          
           to
           no
           small
           straits
           :
           For
           i●
           
             Pope
             Martin
          
           ,
           that
           approved
           this
           Decree
           ,
           was
           infallible
           ,
           then
           this
           Decree
           〈◊〉
           good
           still
           ;
           and
           if
           he
           was
           
             not
             infallible
          
           ,
           no
           other
           Pope
           wa●
           infallible
           .
           To
           all
           this
           Schelstrat
           answers
           from
           his
           Man●scripts
           ,
           that
           the
           words
           
             of
             a
             Reformation
             in
             Head
             and
             Members
             ,
          
           are
           not
           in
           the
           Decree
           of
           that
           S●ssion
           ;
           and
           he
           did
           she●
           me
           several
           Manuscripts
           ,
           of
           which
           two
           were
           evidently
           writ
           during
           the
           sitting
           of
           the
           Council
           ,
           and
           were
           not
           at
           all
           dashed
           ,
           in
           which
           these
           words
           were
           not
           .
           I
           know
           the
           han●
           and
           way
           of
           writting
           of
           that
           Age
           too
           well
           to
           be
           easily
           mistaken
           in
           my
           judgement
           ,
           concerning
           those
           Manuscripts
           ▪
           but
           if
           those
           words
           are
           wanting
           ,
           there
           are
           other
           words
           i●
           them
           that
           seem
           to
           be
           much
           stronger
           for
           the
           superiority
           o●
           the
           Coun●il
           above
           that
           Pope
           .
           For
           it
           is
           Decreed
           ,
           that
           Popes
           ▪
           and
           all
           other
           persons
           ,
           were
           bound
           to
           submit
           to
           the
           Decisions
           of
           the
           Council
           ,
           as
           to
           Faith
           :
           which
           words
           are
           not
           〈◊〉
           the
           
             French
             Manuscripts
          
           :
           Upon
           this
           I
           told
           
             Mr.
             Schelstr●●
          
           that
           I
           thought
           the
           words
           in
           these
           Manuscripts
           were
           stro●ger
           than
           the
           other
           ,
           since
           the
           word
           Reformation
           ,
           as
           〈◊〉
           was
           used
           in
           the
           time
           of
           that
           Council
           ,
           belonged
           chiefly
           〈◊〉
           the
           Correcting
           of
           Abuses
           ,
           it
           being
           often
           applied
           to
           t●●
           Re●ulations
           that
           were
           made
           in
           the
           
             Monastick
             Orders
          
           ,
           whe●
           they
           were
           brought
           to
           a
           more
           exact
           Observation
           of
           〈◊〉
           Rules
           of
           their
           Order
           :
           So
           tho
           the
           Council
           had
           Decreed
           Reformation
           both
           of
           Head
           and
           Members
           ,
           I
           do
           no
           see
           th●●
           this
           would
           import
           more
           ,
           than
           that
           the
           Papacy
           had
           fall●●
           
           i●to
           some
           Disorders
           that
           needed
           a
           Reformation
           :
           and
           this
           〈◊〉
           not
           denyed
           ,
           even
           by
           those
           who
           assert
           the
           
             Popes
             Infal●i●ility
          
           :
           but
           a
           submission
           to
           points
           of
           Faith
           ,
           that
           is
           expressly
           asserted
           in
           the
           
             Roman
             Manuscripts
          
           ,
           is
           a
           much
           more
           positi●e
           Evidence
           against
           the
           
             Popes
             Infallibility
          
           :
           and
           the
           word
           Faith
           is
           not
           capable
           of
           so
           large
           a
           sense
           as
           may
           be
           justly
           a●cribed
           to
           Reformation
           .
           But
           this
           difference
           ,
           in
           so
           main
           a
           ●oint
           between
           Manuscripts
           concerning
           so
           late
           a
           trans●●tion
           ,
           gave
           me
           an
           occasion
           to
           reflect
           on
           the
           vast
           uncer●●●nty
           of
           Tradition
           ,
           especially
           of
           matters
           that
           are
           at
           a
           ●●eat
           distance
           from
           us
           ;
           when
           those
           that
           were
           so
           lately
           ●ransacted
           ,
           are
           so
           differently
           represented
           in
           Manuscripts
           ,
           ●●d
           in
           which
           ,
           both
           those
           of
           Paris
           ,
           and
           Rome
           ,
           seem
           to
           ●arry
           all
           possible
           evidences
           of
           sincerity
           .
           As
           for
           the
           Popes●●●firmation
           ●●●firmation
           of
           that
           De●ree
           ,
           it
           is
           true
           ,
           by
           a
           
             General
             Bull
             ,
             ●●pe
             Martin
          
           confirmed
           the
           
             Council
             of
             Constance
          
           to
           such
           period
           ;
           but
           besides
           that
           ,
           he
           made
           a
           particular
           Bull
           ,
           〈◊〉
           Schelstrat
           assured
           me
           ,
           in
           which
           he
           enumerated
           all
           the
           Decrees
           that
           he
           confirmed
           ,
           and
           among
           those
           ,
           this
           De●ree
           concerning
           the
           Superiority
           of
           the
           Council
           is
           not
           na●ed
           ;
           this
           seemed
           to
           be
           of
           much
           more
           importance
           ,
           and
           therefore
           I
           desired
           to
           see
           the
           Ori●inal
           of
           the
           Bull
           ;
           for
           there
           seems
           to
           be
           just
           reasons
           to
           apprehend
           a
           forgery
           here
           :
           He
           promised
           to
           do
           his
           indeavours
           ,
           tho
           he
           told
           me
           ,
           that
           ●ould
           not
           be
           easy
           ;
           for
           the
           Bulls
           were
           strictly
           kept
           ;
           and
           ●he
           next
           day
           when
           I
           came
           ,
           hoping
           to
           see
           it
           ,
           I
           could
           not
           ●e
           admitted
           :
           but
           he
           assured
           me
           ,
           that
           if
           that
           had
           not
           ●een
           the
           last
           day
           of
           my
           stay
           at
           Rome
           ,
           he
           would
           have
           proc●red
           a
           War●ant
           for
           my
           seeing
           the
           Original
           :
           so
           this
           is
           all
           I
           can
           say
           as
           to
           the
           authenticalness
           of
           that
           Bull
           :
           But
           sup●osing
           it
           to
           be
           genuine
           ,
           I
           could
           not
           agree
           to
           
             Mr.
             Schel●●●t
          
           ,
           that
           the
           General
           
             Bull
             of
             Confirmation
          
           ,
           ought
           to
           ●e
           limited
           to
           the
           other
           ,
           that
           enumerates
           the
           particular
           ●●crees
           :
           but
           since
           that
           particular
           Bull
           was
           never
           dis●overed
           till
           he
           hath
           found
           it
           out
           ,
           it
           seems
           it
           was
           ●ecretly
           made
           ,
           and
           did
           not
           pass
           according
           to
           the
           forms
           of
           the
           Consistory
           ;
           and
           was
           a
           fraudulent
           thing
           ,
           of
           which
           no
           noise
           was
           to
           be
           made
           in
           that
           Age
           ,
           and
           
           therefore
           in
           all
           the
           Dispute
           that
           followed
           in
           the
           
             Council
             of
             Basil
          
           ,
           between
           the
           Pope
           and
           the
           Council
           ,
           upon
           this
           very
           point
           ,
           no
           mention
           was
           ever
           made
           of
           it
           by
           either
           side
           :
           and
           thus
           it
           can
           have
           no
           force
           ,
           unless
           it
           be
           to
           discover
           the
           Artifices
           and
           Fraud
           of
           that
           Court
           :
           That
           at
           the
           same
           time
           in
           which
           the
           Necessity
           of
           their
           affairs
           obliged
           the
           Pope
           to
           confirm
           the
           Decrees
           of
           the
           Council
           ,
           he
           contrived
           a
           secret
           Bull
           ,
           which
           in
           another
           Age
           might
           be
           made
           use
           of
           ,
           to
           weake●
           the
           Authority
           of
           the
           General
           Confirmation
           that
           he
           gave
           :
           and
           therefore
           a
           Bull
           ,
           that
           doth
           not
           pass
           in
           due
           Form
           ,
           and
           is
           not
           promulgated
           ,
           is
           of
           no
           Au●hority
           ;
           and
           so
           this
           pretended
           Bull
           cannot
           limit
           the
           other
           Bull.
           There
           were
           some
           other
           things
           ,
           relating
           to
           this
           Debate
           ,
           that
           were
           shewe●
           me
           by
           
             Mr.
             Schelstrat
          
           ;
           but
           these
           being
           the
           most
           important
           .
           I
           mention
           them
           only
           .
           I
           will
           not
           give
           you
           here
           a
           la●ge
           ●ccount
           of
           the
           
             Learned
             Men
             at
             Rome
             ,
             Bellori
          
           is
           deservedly
           famous
           for
           his
           knowledge
           of
           the
           Greek
           and
           
             Egyptian
             A●●iquities
          
           ,
           and
           for
           all
           that
           belongs
           to
           the
           Mythologies
           ,
           an●
           Superstitions
           of
           the
           Heathens
           ;
           and
           hath
           a
           Closet
           richly
           fu●nished
           with
           things
           relating
           to
           those
           matters
           .
           Fabretti
           i●
           justly
           celebrated
           for
           his
           Understanding
           of
           the
           Old
           
             Roma●
             Architecture
          
           and
           
             Fabricks
             .
             Padre
             Fabri
          
           is
           the
           chief
           Honour
           of
           the
           
             Iesuits
             Colledge
          
           ,
           and
           is
           much
           above
           the
           common
           Rate
           both
           for
           
             Philosophy
             ,
             Mathematicks
          
           ,
           and
           Churc●-History
           .
           And
           he
           to
           whom
           I
           was
           the
           most
           obliged
           ,
           
             〈◊〉
             Nazari
          
           ,
           hath
           so
           general
           a
           view
           of
           the
           several
           parts
           o●
           Learning
           ,
           tho
           he
           hath
           chiefly
           applied
           himself
           to
           Philosop●●
           and
           Mathematicks
           ,
           and
           is
           a
           man
           of
           so
           ingaging
           a
           Civility
           and
           used
           me
           in
           so
           particular
           a
           manner
           ,
           that
           I
           owe
           him
           ▪
           as
           well
           as
           those
           others
           who●
           I
           have
           mentioned
           ,
           and
           who●
           I
           hath
           the
           Honour
           to
           see
           ,
           all
           the
           acknowledgments
           〈◊〉
           Esteem
           and
           gratitude
           that
           I
           can
           possibly
           make
           them
           .
        
         
           One
           sees
           in
           
             Cardi●al
             d'
             Estrè
          
           all
           the
           advantages
           of
           a
           hi●●
           birth
           ,
           great
           Parts
           ,
           a
           generous
           Civility
           ,
           and
           a
           meas●●●●
           of
           knowledge
           far
           above
           what
           can
           be
           expected
           from
           a
           person
           of
           his
           rank
           ;
           but
           as
           he
           gave
           a
           noble
           Protection
           to
           〈◊〉
           of
           the
           
             most
             learned
             Men
          
           that
           this
           Age
           hath
           produced
           ▪
           
             Mr.
             Launnoy
          
           ,
           who
           lived
           many
           years
           with
           him
           ,
           so
           i●●●visible
           ,
           
           that
           he
           made
           a
           great
           progress
           by
           the
           conversation
           of
           so
           extraordinary
           a
           person
           ;
           and
           as
           for
           
             Theogicol
             Lear●ing
          
           ▪
           there
           is
           now
           none
           of
           the
           Colledge
           equal
           to
           him
           .
           
             Cardinal
             Howard
          
           is
           too
           well
           known
           in
           England
           to
           need
           any
           c●●racter
           from
           me
           :
           The
           elevation
           of
           his
           present
           condition
           hath
           not
           in
           the
           least
           changed
           him
           ;
           he
           hath
           all
           the
           ●●eetness
           and
           gentleness
           of
           temper
           that
           we
           saw
           in
           him
           in
           England
           ;
           and
           he
           retains
           the
           unaffected
           Simplicity
           and
           Humility
           of
           a
           Fryer
           ,
           amidst
           all
           the
           Dignity
           of
           the
           Purple
           :
           and
           as
           he
           sheweth
           all
           the
           generous
           care
           and
           concern
           for
           his
           Country-men
           that
           they
           can
           expect
           from
           him
           ;
           so
           I
           met
           with
           so
           much
           of
           it
           ,
           in
           so
           many
           obliging
           marks
           of
           his
           good●ess
           for
           my self
           ,
           that
           went
           far
           beyond
           a
           common
           civility
           ,
           that
           I
           cannot
           enough
           acknowledge
           it
           .
           I
           was
           told
           ,
           the
           
             P●pes
             Confessor
          
           was
           a
           ver●
           extraordinary
           man
           for
           the
           
             Oriental
             ●earning
          
           ,
           which
           is
           but
           little
           known
           in
           Rome
           :
           He
           is
           a
           Master
           of
           the
           
             Arabick
             Tongue
          
           ,
           and
           hath
           writ
           ,
           as
           
             Abbot
             Nazari
          
           told
           me
           ,
           the
           learnedst
           Book
           against
           the
           
             Mahomet●n
             Religion
          
           ,
           that
           the
           World
           hath
           yet
           seen
           ,
           but
           is
           not
           yet
           Printed
           :
           He
           is
           not
           so
           much
           esteemed
           in
           Rome
           as
           he
           would
           be
           elsewhere
           ;
           for
           his
           Learning
           is
           not
           in
           vogue
           ;
           and
           the
           
             School
             Divinity
          
           and
           
             Casuistical
             Lear●ing
          
           ,
           being
           that
           for
           which
           Divines
           are
           most
           esteemed
           there
           ;
           he
           whose
           ●tudies
           lead
           him
           another
           way
           ,
           is
           not
           so
           much
           valued
           as
           ●e
           ought
           to
           be
           ;
           and
           perhaps
           the
           small
           account
           that
           the
           Pope
           makes
           of
           
             Learned
             Men
          
           ,
           turns
           somewhat
           upon
           the
           Confessor
           ;
           for
           it
           is
           certain
           ,
           that
           this
           is
           a
           Reign
           in
           which
           Learning
           is
           very
           little
           incouraged
           .
        
         
           Upon
           the
           general
           Contempt
           that
           all
           the
           Romans
           have
           ,
           for
           the
           present
           Pontificate
           ,
           one
           made
           a
           pleasant
           reflection
           to
           me
           ,
           he
           said
           ▪
           Those
           Popes
           ,
           that
           intended
           to
           raise
           their
           Families
           ,
           as
           they
           saw
           the
           censure
           that
           this
           brought
           ●●on
           them
           ,
           so
           they
           studied
           to
           lessen
           it
           by
           other
           things
           ,
           that
           might
           soften
           the
           Spirits
           of
           the
           people
           .
           No
           man
           did
           ●ore
           for
           beautifying
           Rome
           ,
           for
           finishing
           
             St.
             Peters
          
           and
           the
           Library
           ,
           and
           for
           furnishing
           Rome
           with
           Water
           ,
           than
           
             Pope
             Paul
          
           the
           V.
           tho
           at
           the
           same
           time
           he
           did
           not
           forget
           his
           Family
           ;
           and
           tho
           the
           other
           Popes
           ,
           that
           have
           raised
           great
           
           Families
           ,
           have
           not
           done
           this
           to
           so
           eminent
           a
           degree
           as
           he
           did
           ,
           yet
           there
           are
           many
           remains
           of
           their
           Magnificence
           ▪
           whereas
           those
           Popes
           that
           have
           not
           raised
           Families
           ,
           have
           i●
           seems
           thought
           that
           alone
           was
           enough
           to
           maintain
           their
           Reputation
           ,
           and
           so
           they
           have
           not
           done
           much
           ,
           either
           to
           recommend
           their
           Government
           to
           their
           S●bjects
           ,
           or
           their
           R●ig●
           to
           Posterity
           ;
           and
           it
           is
           very
           plain
           ,
           that
           the
           
             present
             Pope
          
           taketh
           no
           great
           care
           of
           this
           .
           His
           life
           hath
           been
           certainly
           very
           innocent
           ,
           and
           free
           of
           all
           those
           publi●k
           Scandals
           that
           make
           a
           noise
           in
           the
           World
           :
           and
           there
           is
           at
           present
           a
           regularity
           in
           Rome
           ,
           that
           deserveth
           great
           commendation
           ;
           for
           publick
           Vices
           are
           not
           to
           be
           seen
           there
           :
           His
           personal
           Sobriety
           is
           also
           singular
           .
           One
           assured
           me
           ,
           that
           the
           Expence
           of
           his
           Table
           did
           not
           amount
           to
           a
           Crown
           a
           day
           ;
           tho
           this
           is
           indeed
           short
           of
           Sisto
           V.
           who
           gave
           order
           to
           his
           Steward
           ,
           never
           to
           exceed
           five
           and
           twenty
           Bajokes
           ,
           that
           is
           ,
           
             eighteen
             pence
          
           a
           day
           ,
           for
           his
           Diet.
           The
           Pope
           is
           very
           careful
           of
           his
           Health
           ,
           and
           doth
           never
           expose
           it
           ;
           for
           upon
           the
           least
           disorder
           ,
           he
           shuts
           himself
           up
           in
           his
           Chamber
           ,
           and
           often
           keepeth
           his
           Bed
           for
           the
           least
           indisposition
           many
           days
           ;
           but
           his
           Gover●ment
           is
           severe
           ,
           and
           his
           Subjects
           are
           ruined
           .
        
         
           And
           here
           one
           thing
           cometh
           into
           my
           mind
           which
           perhaps
           is
           not
           ill
           grounded
           ,
           that
           the
           
             Poverty
             of
             a
             Nation
          
           ,
           not
           only
           dispeoples
           it
           ,
           by
           driving
           the
           People
           out
           of
           it
           ,
           but
           by
           weakning
           the
           natural
           fertility
           of
           the
           Subjects
           ;
           for
           a●
           men
           and
           women
           well
           cloathed
           ,
           and
           well
           fed
           ,
           that
           are
           not
           exhausted
           with
           perpetual
           Labour
           ,
           and
           with
           the
           tearing
           Anxieties
           that
           Want
           brings
           with
           it
           ,
           must
           be
           much
           more
           lively
           ,
           than
           those
           that
           are
           pressed
           with
           Want
           ;
           so
           it
           is
           very
           likely
           ,
           that
           the
           one
           must
           be
           much
           more
           disposed
           to
           propagate
           ,
           than
           the
           other
           :
           and
           this
           appeared
           more
           evident
           to
           me
           ,
           when
           I
           compared
           the
           Fruitfulness
           of
           Genev●
           and
           Switzerland
           ,
           which
           the
           Barrenness
           that
           reigns
           over
           all
           Italy
           .
           I
           saw
           two
           extraordinary
           instances
           of
           the
           copious
           productions
           of
           
             Gen●va
             ;
             Mr.
             Tron●hin
          
           ,
           that
           was
           
             Pro●ess●●
             of
             Divinity
          
           ,
           and
           Father
           to
           the
           Iudicious
           and
           worthy
           Pro●essor
           of
           the
           same
           name
           ;
           that
           is
           now
           there
           ,
           dyed
           at
           the
           age
           of
           sev●nty
           six
           Years
           ,
           and
           had
           a
           hundred
           and
           fifteen
           Persons
           all
           
           alive
           ,
           that
           had
           e●ther
           descended
           from
           him
           ,
           or
           by
           marri●ge
           with
           those
           that
           descended
           from
           him
           ,
           called
           him
           Father
           .
           And
           
             Mr.
             Calendrin
          
           ,
           a
           pious
           and
           laborious
           Preacher
           of
           that
           Town
           ,
           that
           is
           descended
           from
           the
           Family
           of
           the
           Calendrini
           ,
           who
           receiving
           the
           Reformation
           about
           a
           hundred
           nnd
           fifty
           ●●ars
           ago
           ,
           left
           Lucea
           their
           Native
           City
           with
           the
           Turre●●●
           ,
           the
           Diodati
           ,
           and
           the
           Bourlamacchi
           ,
           and
           some
           others
           that
           came
           and
           setled
           at
           Geneva
           :
           He
           is
           now
           but
           seven
           and
           forty
           years
           old
           ,
           and
           yet
           he
           hath
           a
           hundred
           and
           five
           Persons
           that
           are
           descended
           of
           his
           Brothers
           and
           Sisters
           ,
           or
           ●arried
           to
           them
           ;
           so
           that
           if
           he
           liveth
           but
           to
           E●ghty
           ,
           and
           the
           Family
           multiplieth
           as
           it
           hath
           done
           ,
           he
           may
           see
           some
           hundreds
           that
           will
           be
           in
           the
           same
           relation
           to
           him
           ;
           but
           such
           things
           as
           these
           are
           not
           to
           be
           found
           in
           Italy
           .
        
         
           There
           is
           nothing
           that
           delights
           a
           stranger
           more
           in
           Rome
           ;
           than
           to
           see
           the
           great
           
             Fountains
             of
             Water
          
           ,
           that
           are
           almost
           in
           all
           the
           corners
           of
           it
           :
           That
           old
           Aquaduct
           which
           P●●l
           the
           V.
           restored
           ,
           cometh
           from
           a
           collection
           of
           S●●rces
           ,
           five
           and
           thirty
           Miles
           distant
           from
           Rome
           ,
           that
           ●●ns
           all
           the
           way
           upon
           an
           Aqueduct
           in
           a
           Cannel
           that
           is
           vaulted
           ,
           and
           is
           liker
           a
           River
           than
           a
           Fountain
           :
           it
           breaketh
           out
           in
           five
           several
           Fountains
           ,
           of
           which
           some
           give
           water
           about
           a
           foot
           square
           .
           That
           of
           Sixtus
           the
           V.
           the
           great
           Fountain
           of
           
             Aqua
             Travi
          
           ,
           that
           hath
           yet
           no
           decoration
           ,
           but
           dischargeth
           a
           prodigious
           quantity
           of
           Water
           .
           The
           glorious
           Founta●n
           in
           the
           
             Piazza
             Navona
          
           ,
           that
           hath
           an
           air
           of
           greatness
           in
           it
           that
           surprizeth
           one
           ,
           the
           Fountain
           in
           the
           
             Piazza
             de
             Spagna
          
           ,
           those
           before
           
             S.
             Peters
          
           ,
           and
           the
           
             Palazzo
             Farn●●●
          
           ,
           with
           many
           others
           ,
           furnish
           Rome
           so
           plentifully
           ,
           that
           almost
           every
           private
           House
           hath
           a
           Fountain
           that
           runs
           conti●ually
           .
           All
           these
           ,
           I
           say
           ,
           are
           noble
           Decorations
           ,
           that
           carry
           an
           ●sefulness
           with
           them
           ,
           that
           cannot
           be
           enough
           commended
           :
           and
           gives
           a
           much
           greater
           Idea
           of
           those
           who
           have
           taken
           care
           to
           supply
           this
           City
           ,
           with
           one
           of
           the
           chief
           Pleasures
           and
           Conveniences
           of
           Life
           ,
           than
           of
           others
           ;
           who
           have
           laid
           out
           ●illions
           meerly
           to
           bring
           quantities
           of
           Water
           to
           give
           the
           eye
           ●
           little
           diversion
           ,
           which
           would
           have
           been
           laid
           out
           much
           ●ore
           nobly
           and
           usefully
           ,
           and
           would
           have
           more
           effectually
           
           enterniz●●
           their
           Fame
           ,
           if
           they
           had
           been
           imployed
           〈◊〉
           the
           Romans
           did
           their
           Treasures
           ,
           in
           furnishing
           great
           To●●
           with
           Water
           .
        
         
           There
           is
           an
           universal
           Civility
           that
           reigns
           among
           〈◊〉
           sorts
           of
           people
           at
           Rome
           ,
           which
           in
           a
           great
           measure
           flo●
           from
           their
           Government
           ;
           for
           every
           man
           being
           capable
           of
           〈◊〉
           the
           avancements
           of
           that
           State
           ,
           since
           a
           simple
           Eccl●siastick
           may
           become
           one
           of
           the
           Monsignori
           ,
           and
           〈◊〉
           of
           these
           may
           be
           a
           Cardinal
           ,
           and
           one
           of
           these
           may
           b●
           chosen
           Pope
           ,
           this
           makes
           every
           man
           behave
           himself
           towar●
           all
           other
           persons
           with
           an
           Exactness
           of
           Respect
           :
           for
           〈◊〉
           man
           knows
           what
           any
           other
           may
           grow
           to
           .
           But
           this
           mak●
           Professions
           of
           Esteem
           and
           Kindness
           go
           so
           promiscou●●●
           to
           all
           sorts
           of
           persons
           ,
           that
           one
           ought
           not
           to
           build
           to●
           much
           on
           them
           ,
           the
           conversation
           of
           Rome
           is
           generally
           upo●
           News
           ,
           for
           tho
           there
           is
           no
           news
           Printed
           there
           ,
           yet
           in
           the
           several
           Antichambers
           of
           the
           Cardinals
           (
           where
           if
           they
           mak●
           any
           considerable
           figure
           ,
           there
           are
           Assemblys
           of
           those
           th●●
           make
           their
           Court
           to
           them
           )
           one
           is
           sure
           to
           hear
           all
           the
           〈◊〉
           of
           Europe
           ,
           together
           with
           many
           speculations
           upon
           what
           p●●seth
           .
           At
           the
           
             Queen
             of
             Swedens
          
           ,
           all
           that
           relateth
           to
           Germany
           or
           the
           North
           is
           ever
           to
           be
           found
           ;
           and
           that
           Princess
           ,
           tha●
           must
           ever
           reign
           among
           all
           that
           have
           a
           true
           tast
           either
           o●
           Wit
           or
           Learning
           ,
           hath
           still
           in
           her
           drawing
           Rooms
           the
           be●●
           Court
           of
           the
           Strangers
           ;
           and
           her
           Civility
           ,
           together
           with
           th●
           vast
           variety
           with
           whi●h
           she
           furnisheth
           her
           conversation
           ▪
           maketh
           her
           to
           be
           the
           chief
           of
           all
           the
           living
           Rarities
           that
           on●
           sees
           in
           Rome
           ;
           I
           will
           not
           use
           her
           own
           words
           to
           my self
           ▪
           which
           was
           ,
           
             That
             she
             now
             grew
             to
             be
             one
             of
             the
             Antiquiti●●
             of
             Rome
             .
          
           The
           
             Ambassadors
             of
             Crowns
          
           ,
           who
           live
           here
           in
           another
           form
           than
           in
           any
           other
           Court
           ,
           and
           the
           C●●dinals
           and
           Prelates
           of
           the
           several
           Nations
           ,
           that
           do
           all
           m●●●●nd
           center
           here
           ,
           make
           ,
           that
           there
           is
           more
           
             news
             in
             Rome
          
           ,
           than
           any
           where
           :
           For
           Priests
           ,
           and
           the
           men
           of
           
             Religious
             O●ders
          
           ,
           write
           larger
           and
           more
           particular
           Letters
           ,
           than
           any
           other
           sort
           of
           men
           .
           But
           such
           as
           apply
           themselves
           to
           mak●
           their
           Court
           here
           ,
           are
           comdemned
           to
           a
           loss
           of
           time
           ,
           that
           〈◊〉
           need
           be
           well
           recompenced
           ;
           for
           it
           is
           very
           great
           .
           As
           for
           〈◊〉
           
           ●hat
           Studies
           
             Antiquities
             ,
             Pictures
             ,
             Statues
          
           ,
           or
           Musi●k
           ,
           ●●ere
           is
           more
           entertainment
           for
           him
           at
           Rome
           ,
           than
           in
           all
           ●he
           rest
           of
           Europe
           ;
           but
           if
           he
           hath
           not
           a
           tast
           of
           these
           things
           ,
           〈◊〉
           will
           soon
           be
           weary
           of
           a
           place
           where
           the
           Conversation
           is
           ●●ways
           general
           ,
           and
           where
           there
           is
           little
           Sincerity
           or
           Open●●●●
           practised
           ,
           and
           by
           consequence
           ,
           where
           friendship
           is
           〈◊〉
           understood
           .
           The
           Wom●n
           here
           begin
           to
           be
           a
           little
           more
           ●●●versable
           ,
           tho
           a
           Nation
           naturally
           jealous
           ,
           will
           hardly
           ●●ow
           a
           great
           liberty
           in
           a
           City
           that
           is
           composed
           of
           Ecclesia●●icks
           ;
           who
           being
           denyed
           the
           priviledge
           of
           Wives
           of
           their
           〈◊〉
           ,
           are
           suspected
           of
           being
           sometimes
           too
           bold
           with
           ●●e
           Wives
           of
           others
           :
           The
           Liberties
           that
           were
           taken
           in
           the
           
             Constable
             of
             Naples's
             palace
          
           ,
           had
           indeed
           disgusted
           the
           Ro●●ns
           much
           at
           that
           Freedom
           ,
           which
           had
           no
           bounds
           .
           ●●t
           the
           
             Dutchess
             of
             Bracciano
          
           ,
           that
           is
           a
           
             Fren●h
             Woman
          
           ,
           ●ath
           by
           the
           exactness
           of
           her
           deportment
           ,
           amidst
           all
           the
           innocent
           Freedoms
           of
           a
           Noble
           Conversation
           ,
           recovered
           in
           a
           great
           measure
           ,
           the
           Credit
           of
           those
           Liber●ies
           ,
           that
           La●i●●
           beyond
           the
           Mountains
           practise
           ,
           with
           all
           the
           strictness
           of
           Vertue
           :
           For
           she
           receiveth
           visits
           at
           publick
           hours
           ,
           and
           in
           publick
           Rooms
           ;
           and
           by
           the
           liveliness
           of
           her
           Conversa●●on
           ,
           maketh
           that
           her
           Court
           is
           the
           pleasantest
           Assembly
           o●
           Strangers
           ,
           that
           is
           to
           be
           found
           in
           any
           of
           the
           Palaces
           of
           the
           Italians
           at
           Rome
           .
        
         
           I
           will
           not
           ingage
           in
           a
           description
           of
           Rome
           ,
           either
           ancient
           or
           modern
           ,
           this
           hath
           been
           done
           so
           oft
           ,
           and
           with
           such
           ●●actness
           ,
           that
           nothing
           can
           be
           added
           to
           what
           hath
           been
           already
           published
           .
           It
           is
           certain
           ,
           that
           when
           one
           is
           in
           the
           Ca●●tol
           ,
           and
           s●es
           those
           poor
           Rests
           of
           what
           once
           it
           was
           ,
           he
           is
           s●rprized
           to
           see
           a
           building
           of
           so
           great
           a
           fame
           sunk
           so
           low
           ,
           that
           one
           can
           scarce
           imagine
           that
           it
           was
           once
           a
           Castle
           ,
           sci●●ated
           upon
           a
           Hill
           ,
           able
           to
           hold
           out
           against
           a
           Siege
           of
           the
           G●●ls
           :
           The
           
             Tarpeian
             Rock
          
           is
           now
           of
           so
           small
           a
           fall
           ,
           that
           a
           man
           would
           think
           it
           no
           great
           matter
           ,
           for
           his
           diversion
           ,
           to
           leap
           over
           it
           :
           and
           the
           shape
           of
           the
           ground
           hath
           not
           been
           so
           much
           altered
           on
           one
           side
           ,
           as
           to
           make
           us
           think
           it
           is
           very
           ●uch
           changed
           on
           the
           other
           .
           For
           
             Severus's
             Triumphal
             ●rch
          
           ,
           which
           is
           at
           the
           foot
           of
           the
           Hill
           on
           the
           other
           side
           ,
           is
           
           not
           now
           buried
           above
           two
           foot
           within
           the
           ground
           ,
           as
           ●he
           vast
           
             Amphitheater
             of
             Titus
          
           ▪
           is
           not
           above
           three
           ●oot
           sunk
           under
           the
           level
           of
           the
           ground
           .
           Within
           the
           Capitol
           one
           ●ee●
           many
           Noble
           remnants
           of
           Antiquity
           ;
           but
           none
           is
           more
           glorious
           ,
           as
           well
           as
           more
           useful
           ,
           than
           the
           
             Tables
             of
             〈◊〉
             Consuls
          
           ,
           which
           are
           upon
           the
           Walls
           :
           and
           the
           Inscription
           on
           the
           
             Columna
             Rostrate
          
           in
           the
           time
           of
           the
           first
           
             Punick
             War
          
           ,
           is
           without
           doubt
           the
           most
           valuable
           Antiquity
           in
           Rome
           .
           From
           this
           all
           along
           the
           sacred
           way
           ,
           one
           findeth
           such
           remnan●●
           of
           
             Old
             Rome
          
           in
           the
           Ruins
           of
           the
           Temples
           ,
           in
           the
           
             Triumph●l
             Arches
          
           ,
           in
           the
           Portico's
           ,
           and
           other
           Remains
           of
           that
           Glorious
           Body
           ,
           that
           as
           one
           cannot
           see
           these
           too
           often
           ,
           so
           every
           time
           one
           sees
           them
           ,
           they
           kindle
           in
           him
           vast
           idea's
           of
           that
           Republick
           ,
           and
           make
           him
           reflect
           on
           that
           which
           he
           learned
           in
           his
           youth
           with
           great
           pleasure
           .
           From
           the
           height
           of
           the
           
             Convent
             of
             Araceli
          
           ,
           a
           man
           hath
           a
           full
           vie●
           of
           all
           the
           extent
           of
           Rome
           ,
           but
           literally
           it
           is
           now
           
             seges
             ubi
             Roma
             suit
          
           ;
           for
           the
           parts
           of
           the
           City
           ,
           that
           were
           most
           inhabited
           anciently
           ,
           are
           those
           that
           are
           now
           laid
           in
           gre●●
           Gardens
           ,
           or
           ,
           as
           they
           call
           them
           ,
           Vineyards
           ,
           of
           which
           some
           are
           half
           a
           mile
           in
           compass
           :
           The
           vastness
           of
           the
           Rom●●
           Magnificence
           and
           Luxury
           ,
           is
           that
           which
           passeth
           imagination
           ;
           the
           prodigious
           
             Amphithe●ter
             of
             Titus
          
           ,
           that
           could
           convenienly
           receive
           eighty
           five
           thousand
           spectators
           ;
           the
           great
           extent
           of
           the
           
             Circus
             Maximus
          
           ;
           the
           vaults
           where
           the
           Waters
           were
           reserved
           that
           furnished
           
             Titus's
             Baths
          
           ;
           and
           above
           all
           ,
           
             Dioclesi●n's
             B●ths
          
           ,
           tho
           built
           when
           the
           Empire
           was
           in
           its
           decay
           ,
           are
           so
           far
           above
           all
           Modern
           Buildings
           ,
           that
           there
           is
           not
           so
           much
           as
           room
           for
           a
           comparison
           .
           The
           extent
           of
           those
           Ba●hs
           is
           above
           half
           a
           mile
           in
           compass
           :
           the
           vastness
           of
           the
           Rooms
           in
           which
           the
           Bathers
           might
           swim
           ,
           of
           which
           the
           
             Carthusians
             Church
          
           ,
           that
           yet
           remains
           intire
           ,
           is
           one
           ,
           and
           the
           many
           great
           Pillars
           ,
           all
           of
           
             one
             stone
          
           of
           Marble
           ,
           beautifully
           spotted
           ,
           are
           things
           of
           which
           these
           latter
           Ages
           are
           not
           capable
           .
           The
           beauty
           of
           their
           Temples
           ,
           and
           of
           the
           Portico's
           before
           them
           ,
           is
           amazing
           ,
           chiefly
           that
           of
           the
           Rotunda
           where
           the
           Fabrick
           without
           ,
           looketh
           as
           mean
           ,
           being
           only
           brick
           ,
           as
           the
           Architecture
           is
           bold
           ,
           for
           it
           riseth
           up
           in
           a
           Vault
           ,
           and
           yet
           at
           the
           
           top
           there
           is
           an
           open
           left
           ,
           of
           thirty
           foot
           in
           Diameter
           ,
           which
           ▪
           as
           it
           is
           the
           only
           Window
           of
           the
           Church
           ,
           so
           it
           filleth
           it
           with
           light
           ;
           and
           is
           the
           hardiest
           piece
           of
           Architecture
           that
           ever
           was
           made
           .
           The
           Pillars
           of
           the
           Portico
           are
           also
           the
           noblest
           in
           Rome
           ,
           they
           are
           the
           highest
           and
           biggest
           that
           one
           can
           see
           any
           where
           all
           of
           
             one
             Stone
          
           :
           and
           the
           numbers
           of
           those
           ●ncient
           Pillars
           ,
           with
           which
           ,
           not
           only
           many
           of
           the
           C●urches
           are
           beautified
           ,
           chiefly
           
             S.
             Mary
             Maggiore
          
           ,
           and
           〈◊〉
           Iohn
           in
           the
           Lateran
           ▪
           but
           with
           which
           even
           private
           houses
           are
           adorned
           ,
           and
           of
           ●he
           Fragments
           ,
           of
           which
           there
           are
           ●●ch
           mul●itudes
           in
           all
           the
           Streets
           of
           Rome
           ,
           giveth
           a
           great
           idea
           of
           the
           Expencefulness
           of
           the
           old
           Romans
           in
           their
           buil●●ngs
           ;
           for
           the
           hewing
           and
           fetching
           a
           few
           of
           those
           Pillars
           ,
           ●ust
           have
           cost
           more
           than
           whole
           Palaces
           do
           now
           :
           since
           ●ost
           of
           them
           were
           brought
           from
           Greece
           :
           Many
           of
           these
           Pillars
           are
           of
           Porphiry
           ,
           others
           of
           Iasp
           ,
           others
           of
           grana●ed
           Marble
           ,
           but
           the
           greatest
           number
           is
           of
           white
           Marble
           :
           The
           two
           
             Columns
             ,
             Trajans
          
           and
           A●tonius
           ,
           the
           two
           Horses
           that
           are
           in
           the
           
             Mount
             Cavallo
          
           ,
           and
           the
           other
           two
           Hors●s
           in
           the
           Capitol
           ,
           which
           have
           not
           indeed
           ●he
           postures
           and
           ●otion
           of
           the
           other
           :
           The
           brass
           Horse
           ,
           that
           as
           is
           believed
           carrieth
           
             Marcus
             Aurelius
          
           ;
           the
           remains
           of
           
             N●ro's
             Colossus
          
           ;
           the
           
             T●mple
             of
             Ba●●hus
          
           near
           the
           Catacomb
           of
           
             S.
             Agnes
          
           ,
           which
           is
           the
           intirest
           and
           the
           least
           altered
           of
           all
           the
           ancient
           Temples
           :
           The
           great
           
             Temple
             of
             Peace
          
           ;
           those
           of
           ●he
           Sun
           and
           Moon
           :
           that
           of
           Romulus
           and
           Remus
           ,
           (
           which
           I
           considered
           as
           the
           ancientest
           Fabrick
           that
           is
           now
           le●t
           ;
           for
           it
           is
           little
           and
           simple
           ,
           and
           standeth
           in
           such
           a
           place
           ,
           that
           ●hen
           Rome
           grew
           so
           costly
           ,
           it
           could
           not
           have
           been
           let
           alone
           unchanged
           ,
           if
           it
           had
           not
           been
           that
           it
           was
           reverenced
           for
           its
           Antiquity
           )
           the
           many
           o
           her
           
             Portico's
             ,
             the
             Arc●es
          
           of
           Severus
           ,
           of
           Titus
           ,
           and
           Constantine
           ,
           in
           the
           last
           of
           which
           one
           sees
           that
           the
           Sculpture
           of
           his
           Age
           ▪
           was
           much
           sunk
           from
           what
           it
           had
           been
           ,
           only
           in
           the
           top
           there
           are
           some
           
             Bas
             Reliefs
          
           ,
           that
           are
           clearly
           of
           a
           much
           ancienter
           time
           ,
           and
           of
           a
           better
           manner
           .
           And
           that
           which
           exceedeth
           all
           the
           rest
           ,
           the
           many
           great
           Aqueducts
           that
           come
           from
           all
           hands
           ,
           and
           run
           over
           a
           vast
           distance
           ,
           are
           things
           which
           a
           man
           cannot
           see
           
           oft
           enough
           ,
           if
           he
           would
           form
           in
           himself
           a
           just
           idea
           of
           the
           vastness
           of
           that
           Republick
           ,
           or
           rather
           Empire
           :
           There
           are
           many
           Statues
           and
           Pillars
           ,
           and
           other
           Antiquities
           of
           grea●
           value
           ,
           dug
           up
           in
           al●
           the
           quarters
           of
           Rome
           ,
           these
           last
           hundred
           and
           fourscore
           years
           ,
           since
           
             Pope
             L●o
          
           the
           tenth's
           time
           ▪
           who
           as
           he
           was
           the
           greatest
           Patron
           of
           Learning
           and
           Arts
           ,
           that
           perhaps
           ever
           was
           ,
           so
           was
           the
           generousest
           Prince
           that
           ever
           reigned
           ;
           and
           it
           was
           he
           that
           first
           set
           on
           foot
           the
           inquiring
           into
           the
           Riches
           of
           
             Old
             Rome
          
           ,
           that
           lay
           ,
           till
           his
           tim●
           ,
           for
           the
           most
           part
           ,
           hid
           under
           ground
           ;
           and
           indeed
           if
           ●e
           had
           been
           less
           scandalous
           in
           his
           Impiety
           and
           Atheism
           ,
           of
           which
           neither
           he
           nor
           his
           Court
           were
           so
           much
           as
           ashamed
           ,
           he
           had
           been
           one
           of
           the
           most
           celebrated
           persons
           of
           any
           Age.
           Soon
           after
           him
           
             Pope
             Paul
          
           the
           III.
           gave
           the
           ground
           of
           the
           
             Monte
             Palatino
          
           to
           his
           Family
           :
           But
           I
           was
           told
           ,
           that
           ●hi●
           large
           piece
           of
           ground
           ,
           in
           which
           one
           should
           look
           for
           the
           greatest
           collection
           of
           the
           Antiquities
           of
           the
           highest
           value
           ,
           since
           this
           is
           the
           Ruin
           of
           the
           Palace
           of
           the
           
             Romun
             Emperors
          
           ,
           hath
           never
           been
           yet
           searched
           into
           with
           any
           exactness
           :
           So
           that
           when
           a
           curious
           Prince
           cometh
           ,
           that
           is
           willing
           to
           imploy
           many
           hands
           in
           digging
           up
           and
           down
           this
           Hill
           ,
           we
           may
           expect
           new
           Scenes
           of
           
             Roman
             Antiquities
          
           .
           But
           all
           this
           matter
           would
           require
           Volumes
           ,
           and
           therefore
           I
           have
           only
           named
           these
           things
           ,
           because
           I
           can
           add
           nothing
           to
           those
           copious
           Descriptions
           that
           have
           been
           so
           oft
           made
           of
           them
           .
           Nor
           will
           I
           say
           any
           thing
           of
           the
           
             modern
             Palaces
          
           ,
           or
           the
           Ornaments
           of
           them
           ,
           either
           in
           Pictures
           or
           Statues
           ,
           which
           are
           things
           that
           carry
           one
           so
           far
           ,
           that
           it
           is
           not
           easie
           to
           give
           bounds
           to
           the
           Descriptions
           in●o
           which
           one
           findeth
           himself
           carried
           ,
           when
           he
           once
           enters
           upon
           so
           fruitful
           a
           Subject
           .
           The
           number
           of
           the
           Palaces
           is
           great
           ,
           and
           every
           one
           of
           them
           hath
           enough
           to
           fix
           the
           attention
           of
           a
           Traveller
           ,
           till
           a
           new
           one
           drives
           the
           former
           out
           of
           his
           thoughts
           :
           It
           is
           true
           ,
           the
           Palestrina
           ,
           the
           Borghese
           ,
           and
           the
           Farnes●
           have
           somewhat
           in
           them
           that
           leave
           an
           impression
           which
           no
           new
           Objects
           can
           wear
           out
           ;
           and
           as
           the
           last
           hath
           a
           noble
           Square
           before
           it
           ,
           with
           two
           great
           Fountains
           in
           it
           ,
           so
           the
           
             Statue
             of
             Hercules
          
           and
           the
           Bull
           ,
           that
           are
           below
           ,
           and
           the
           
           Gallery
           above
           stairs
           ,
           are
           unvaluable
           ;
           the
           Roof
           of
           the
           Gallery
           is
           one
           of
           the
           best
           pieces
           of
           Painting
           that
           is
           extant
           ,
           being
           all
           of
           Carrachio's
           hand
           ;
           and
           there
           are
           in
           that
           Gallery
           the
           greatest
           number
           of
           heads
           of
           the
           
             Greek
             Philosophers
          
           and
           Poets
           that
           I
           ever
           saw
           together
           :
           That
           of
           Homer
           and
           that
           of
           Socrates
           were
           the
           two
           that
           struck
           me
           most
           ,
           chiefly
           the
           latter
           ,
           which
           as
           it
           is
           ,
           without
           dispute
           ,
           a
           true
           Antick
           ,
           so
           it
           carrieth
           in
           it
           all
           the
           Characters
           that
           Plato
           and
           X●nophon
           give
           us
           of
           Socrates
           ;
           the
           flat
           Nose
           ,
           the
           broad
           Face
           ,
           the
           simplicity
           of
           Look
           ,
           and
           the
           mean
           Appearance
           which
           that
           great
           Philosopher
           made
           ,
           so
           that
           I
           could
           not
           return
           oft
           enough
           to
           look
           upon
           it
           ,
           and
           was
           delighted
           with
           this
           more
           than
           with
           all
           the
           Wonders
           of
           the
           B●ll
           ,
           which
           is
           indeed
           a
           
             Rock
             of
             Marble
          
           ,
           cut
           out
           into
           a
           whole
           
             Scene
             of
             Statues
          
           ;
           but
           as
           the
           History
           of
           it
           is
           not
           well
           known
           ,
           so
           there
           are
           such
           faults
           in
           the
           Sculpture
           ,
           that
           tho
           it
           is
           all
           extream
           fine
           ,
           yet
           one
           seeth
           it
           hath
           not
           the
           exactness
           of
           the
           best
           times
           .
           As
           for
           the
           Churches
           &
           
             Convents
             of
             Rome
          
           ,
           as
           the
           number
           ,
           the
           Vastness
           ,
           the
           Riches
           both
           of
           Fabrick
           ,
           Furniture
           ▪
           Painting
           and
           other
           Ornaments
           amaze
           one
           ,
           so
           here
           again
           a
           Stranger
           is
           lost
           ;
           and
           the
           Convent
           that
           one
           seeth
           last
           ,
           is
           always
           the
           most
           admired
           :
           I
           confess
           ,
           the
           Mi●e●va
           ,
           which
           is
           ●he
           Dominicans
           ,
           where
           the
           Inquisition
           sitteth
           is
           that
           which
           maketh
           the
           most
           sensible
           impression
           upon
           one
           that
           passeth
           at
           Rome
           for
           an
           Heretick
           ,
           tho
           except
           one
           committeth
           great
           follies
           ▪
           he
           is
           in
           no
           danger
           there
           ;
           and
           the
           Poverty
           that
           reigns
           in
           that
           City
           maketh
           them
           find
           their
           interest
           so
           much
           in
           using
           Strangers
           well
           ,
           whatsoever
           their
           Religion
           may
           be
           ,
           that
           no
           man
           needs
           be
           affraid
           there
           :
           And
           I
           have
           more
           than
           ordinary
           reason
           to
           acknowledge
           this
           ,
           who
           having
           ventured
           to
           go
           thither
           ,
           after
           all
           the
           liberty
           that
           I
           had
           taken
           to
           write
           my
           thoughts
           freely
           both
           of
           the
           Church
           and
           Se●
           of
           R●me
           ,
           and
           was
           known
           by
           all
           with
           whom
           I
           conversed
           there
           ,
           yet
           met
           with
           the
           highest
           Civilities
           possible
           among
           all
           sorts
           of
           people
           ,
           and
           in
           pa●ticular
           both
           among
           the
           English
           and
           
             S●ottish
             Iesuits
          
           ,
           tho
           they
           knew
           well
           enough
           that
           I
           was
           no
           friend
           to
           their
           Order
           .
        
         
           In
           the
           Gallery
           of
           the
           
             English
             Iesuits
          
           ,
           among
           the
           P●ctures
           
           of
           their
           Martyrs
           ,
           I
           did
           not
           meet
           with
           Garnet
           ;
           for
           perhaps
           that
           name
           is
           so
           well
           known
           ,
           that
           they
           would
           not
           expose
           a
           Picture
           ,
           with
           such
           a
           name
           on
           it
           ,
           to
           all
           strangers
           ;
           yet
           Old-corn
           ,
           being
           a
           name
           less
           known
           ,
           ●is
           hung
           there
           among
           their
           Martyrs
           ,
           tho
           he
           was
           as
           clearly
           convicted
           of
           the
           
             G●●-powder
             Treason
          
           ,
           as
           the
           other
           was
           :
           and
           it
           seemed
           a
           little
           strange
           to
           me
           to
           see
           that
           at
           a
           time
           ,
           in
           which
           ,
           for
           other
           Reasons
           the
           Writers
           of
           that
           Communion
           have
           not
           thought
           fit
           ,
           to
           deny
           the
           truth
           of
           that
           Conspiracy
           ,
           a
           Iesuit
           convicted
           of
           the
           blackest
           crime
           that
           ever
           was
           projected
           ,
           should
           be
           reckoned
           among
           their
           Martyrs
           .
           I
           saw
           likewise
           there
           the
           Original
           of
           those
           
             Emblematical
             Prophecies
          
           ,
           relating
           to
           England
           ,
           that
           the
           Jesuits
           have
           had
           at
           Rome
           near
           sixty
           years
           ,
           and
           of
           which
           I
           had
           some
           time
           ago
           procured
           a
           Copy
           ;
           so
           I
           found
           my
           Copy
           was
           true
           .
           I
           hapned
           to
           be
           at
           Rom●
           during
           St.
           
             Gregory's
             Fair
          
           and
           Feast
           ,
           which
           lasted
           several
           dayes
           .
           In
           his
           Church
           the
           Hosty
           was
           exposed
           ;
           and
           from
           that
           ,
           all
           that
           came
           thither
           ,
           went
           to
           the
           Chappel
           ,
           that
           was
           once
           his
           House
           ,
           in
           which
           his
           Statue
           ,
           and
           the
           T●ble
           ,
           where
           he
           ser●●d
           the
           poor
           ,
           are
           preserved
           :
           I
           sa●
           such
           vast
           numbers
           of
           people
           there
           ,
           that
           one
           would
           have
           thought
           all
           Rome
           was
           got
           together
           .
           They
           all
           kneeled
           down
           to
           his
           Statue
           ,
           and
           after
           a
           prayer
           said
           to
           it
           ,
           they
           kissed
           his
           foot
           ,
           and
           every
           one
           touched
           the
           Table
           with
           his
           Beads
           ,
           as
           hoping
           to
           draw
           some
           vertue
           from
           it
           .
           I
           will
           add
           nothing
           of
           the
           several
           Ob●lisks
           nnd
           Pillars
           that
           are
           in
           Rom●
           ,
           of
           the
           celebrated
           Chappels
           that
           are
           in
           some
           of
           the
           gre●●
           Churches
           ,
           in
           particular
           those
           of
           Sixtus
           the
           V.
           and
           Paul
           the
           V.
           in
           
             Santa
             Maria
             Maggiore
          
           ,
           of
           the
           Water-works
           in
           the
           Quirinal
           ,
           the
           Vatican
           ,
           and
           in
           many
           of
           the
           Vineyards
           :
           Nor
           will
           I
           go
           out
           of
           Rome
           to
           describe
           Frescati
           ,
           (
           For
           Tivoly
           I
           did
           not
           see
           )
           The
           young
           
             Prince
             Borghese
          
           ,
           who
           is
           indeed
           one
           of
           the
           Glories
           of
           Rome
           ,
           as
           well
           for
           his
           learning
           as
           for
           his
           vertue
           ,
           did
           me
           the
           Honour
           to
           carry
           me
           thither
           with
           those
           two
           learned
           
             Abbots
             ,
             Fabretti
          
           and
           Nazari
           ,
           and
           entertained
           me
           with
           a
           magnificence
           that
           became
           him
           better
           to
           give
           than
           me
           to
           receive
           .
           The
           Water-works
           in
           the
           
             Aldobrandin
             Palace
          
           have
           a
           Magnificence
           in
           them
           beyond
           all
           
           that
           I
           ever
           saw
           in
           France
           ,
           the
           mixture
           of
           Wind
           with
           the
           Water
           ,
           and
           the
           Thunders
           and
           Storms
           that
           this
           maketh
           is
           noble
           :
           The
           W●ter-works
           of
           the
           Ludovisio
           ,
           and
           the
           
             Monte
             Dragene
          
           ,
           have
           likewise
           a
           greatness
           in
           them
           that
           is
           natural
           ;
           and
           indeed
           ,
           the
           Riches
           that
           one
           meets
           with
           in
           all
           places
           within
           doors
           in
           Italy
           ,
           and
           the
           P●verty
           that
           one
           seeth
           every
           where
           abroad
           ,
           are
           the
           most
           unsuitable
           things
           imaginable
           :
           but
           it
           is
           very
           likely
           ,
           that
           a
           great
           part
           of
           their
           movable
           Wealth
           will
           be
           ere
           long
           carried
           into
           Fra●●●
           ;
           or
           as
           soon
           as
           any
           Picture
           or
           Statue
           of
           great
           value
           is
           offered
           to
           be
           sold
           ,
           those
           that
           are
           imployed
           by
           the
           
             King
             of
             France
          
           ,
           do
           presently
           buy
           it
           up
           ,
           so
           that
           as
           that
           King
           hath
           already
           ,
           the
           greatest
           collection
           of
           Pictures
           that
           is
           in
           Europe
           ,
           he
           will
           very
           probably
           in
           a
           few
           years
           more
           ,
           bring
           together
           the
           chief
           Treasures
           of
           Italy
           .
        
         
           I
           have
           now
           given
           you
           an
           account
           of
           all
           that
           appeared
           most
           remarkable
           to
           me
           in
           Rome
           .
           I
           shall
           to
           this
           add
           a
           very
           extraordinary
           piece
           of
           
             Natural
             History
          
           that
           fell
           out
           there
           within
           these
           
             two
             years
          
           ,
           which
           I
           had
           first
           from
           those
           two
           learned
           Abbots
           ,
           Fabretti
           and
           N●zari
           ,
           and
           that
           was
           afterwards
           more
           authentically
           confirmed
           to
           me
           by
           
             Cardi●al
             Howard
          
           ,
           who
           was
           one
           of
           the
           Congregation
           of
           Cardinals
           that
           examined
           and
           judged
           the
           matter
           .
           There
           were
           
             two
             Nuns
          
           near
           Rome
           ,
           one
           as
           I
           remember
           was
           in
           the
           City
           ;
           and
           the
           other
           not
           far
           from
           it
           ,
           who
           ,
           after
           they
           had
           been
           for
           some
           years
           in
           a
           Nunnery
           ,
           perceived
           a
           very
           strange
           change
           in
           Nature
           ,
           and
           that
           their
           Sex
           was
           altered
           ,
           whi●h
           grew
           by
           some
           degrees
           to
           a
           total
           alteration
           in
           one
           ;
           and
           tho
           the
           other
           was
           not
           so
           entire
           a
           change
           ,
           yet
           it
           was
           visible
           she
           was
           more
           Man
           than
           Woman
           ;
           upon
           this
           the
           matter
           was
           looked
           into
           :
           That
           which
           naturally
           offereth
           it self
           here
           ,
           is
           ,
           
             that
             these
             two
             had
             been
             alwayes
             what
             they
             then
             appeared
             to
             be
             ;
             but
             that
             they
             had
             gone
             into
             a
             Nunnery
             in
             a
             disguise
             ,
             to
             gratifie
             a
             brutal
             App●tite
             .
          
           But
           to
           this
           ,
           wh●n
           I
           proposed
           it
           ,
           answer
           was
           made
           ,
           that
           as
           the
           Breasts
           of
           a
           Wom●n
           ,
           that
           remained
           still
           ,
           did
           in
           a
           great
           measure
           shake
           off
           that
           Objection
           ,
           so
           the
           proofs
           were
           given
           so
           fully
           ,
           of
           their
           having
           been
           real
           Females
           ,
           that
           
           there
           was
           no
           doubt
           left
           of
           that
           ,
           nor
           had
           they
           given
           any
           sort
           of
           Scandal
           in
           the
           change
           of
           their
           Sex
           ;
           And
           if
           there
           had
           been
           any
           room
           left
           to
           suspect
           a
           Cheat
           or
           Disguise
           ,
           the
           proceedings
           would
           have
           been
           both
           more
           severe
           and
           more
           secret
           ;
           and
           these
           persons
           would
           have
           been
           Burnt
           ,
           or
           at
           least
           put
           to
           Death
           in
           some
           terrible
           manner
           .
           Some
           Physicians
           and
           Chirurgions
           were
           appointed
           to
           examin
           the
           matter
           ,
           and
           at
           last
           ,
           after
           a
           long
           and
           exact
           inquiry
           ,
           they
           were
           judged
           to
           be
           absolved
           from
           their
           vows
           ,
           and
           were
           dismissed
           from
           the
           Obligation
           of
           a
           Religious
           Life
           ,
           and
           required
           to
           go
           in
           
             mens
             habit
          
           .
           One
           of
           them
           was
           a
           
             Valet
             〈◊〉
             Chambre
          
           to
           a
           
             Roman
             Marquess
          
           ,
           when
           I
           was
           there
           :
           I
           heard
           of
           this
           matter
           only
           two
           dayes
           before
           I
           left
           Rome
           ,
           so
           that
           I
           had
           not
           time
           to
           inquire
           after
           it
           more
           particularly
           ;
           but
           I
           judged
           it
           so
           extraordinary
           ,
           that
           I
           thought
           it
           was
           worth
           communicating
           to
           so
           curious
           an
           Inquirer
           into
           Nature
           .
        
         
           And
           since
           I
           am
           upon
           the
           subject
           of
           the
           Changes
           that
           have
           been
           made
           in
           Nature
           ,
           I
           shall
           add
           one
           of
           another
           fort
           ,
           that
           I
           examined
           while
           I
           was
           at
           Geneva
           :
           There
           is
           a
           Minister
           of
           S.
           Gervais
           ,
           Mr.
           Gody
           ,
           who
           hath
           a
           Daughter
           ,
           that
           is
           now
           
             sixteen
             Years
          
           old
           ;
           Her
           Nurse
           had
           an
           extraordinary
           thickness
           of
           hearing
           ;
           at
           a
           year
           old
           ,
           the
           Child
           spoke
           all
           those
           little
           words
           ,
           that
           Children
           begin
           usually
           to
           learn
           at
           that
           age
           ,
           but
           she
           made
           no
           progress
           ;
           yet
           this
           was
           not
           observed
           ,
           till
           it
           was
           too
           late
           ;
           and
           as
           she
           grew
           to
           he
           two
           years
           old
           ,
           they
           preceived
           then
           that
           she
           had
           lost
           her
           hearing
           ,
           and
           was
           so
           deaf
           ,
           that
           ever
           since
           ,
           tho
           she
           hears
           great
           noises
           ,
           yet
           she
           hears
           nothing
           that
           one
           can
           speak
           to
           her
           .
           It
           seems
           ,
           while
           the
           milk
           of
           her
           Nurse
           ,
           was
           more
           abundant
           ,
           and
           that
           the
           Child
           suckt
           more
           moderately
           the
           first
           year
           ,
           those
           humors
           in
           the
           Blood
           and
           Milk
           had
           not
           that
           effect
           on
           her
           ,
           that
           appeared
           after
           she
           came
           to
           suck
           more
           violently
           ,
           and
           that
           her
           Nurse's
           Milk
           being
           in
           less
           quantity
           ,
           was
           thicker
           ,
           and
           more
           charged
           with
           that
           vapour
           that
           occasioned
           the
           deafness
           .
           But
           this
           Child
           hath
           by
           observing
           the
           Motions
           of
           the
           Mouths
           and
           Lips
           of
           others
           ,
           acquired
           so
           many
           Words
           ,
           that
           out
           of
           these
           she
           hath
           formed
           ●
           
           ●ort
           of
           Iargon
           ,
           in
           which
           she
           can
           hold
           conversation
           whole
           days
           with
           those
           that
           can
           speak
           her
           own
           language
           .
           I
           could
           understand
           some
           of
           her
           words
           ,
           but
           could
           not
           comprehend
           a
           period
           ;
           for
           it
           seemed
           to
           be
           a
           confused
           noise
           :
           She
           knows
           nothing
           that
           is
           said
           to
           her
           ,
           unless
           she
           seeth
           the
           Motion
           of
           their
           Mouths
           that
           speak
           to
           her
           ;
           so
           that
           in
           the
           Night
           ,
           when
           it
           is
           necessary
           to
           speak
           to
           her
           ,
           they
           must
           light
           a
           candle
           :
           Only
           one
           thing
           appeared
           the
           strangest
           part
           of
           the
           whole
           narration
           ;
           She
           hath
           a
           Sister
           ,
           with
           whom
           she
           has
           practised
           her
           language
           more
           than
           with
           any
           other
           ;
           and
           in
           the
           Night
           ,
           by
           laying
           her
           Hand
           on
           her
           
             Sister's
             Mouth
          
           ,
           she
           ●an
           perceive
           by
           that
           ,
           what
           she
           says
           ,
           and
           so
           can
           discourse
           ●ith
           her
           in
           the
           night
           ,
           It
           is
           true
           ,
           her
           Mother
           told
           me
           ,
           that
           this
           did
           not
           go
           far
           ,
           and
           that
           she
           found
           out
           only
           some
           short
           period
           in
           this
           manner
           ,
           but
           it
           did
           not
           hold
           out
           very
           long
           :
           thus
           this
           young
           Woman
           ,
           without
           any
           pains
           taken
           on
           her
           ,
           hath
           meerly
           by
           a
           natural
           sagacity
           ,
           found
           out
           a
           method
           of
           holding
           discourse
           ,
           that
           doth
           in
           a
           great
           measure
           lessen
           the
           Misery
           of
           her
           Deafness
           .
           I
           examined
           this
           matter
           critically
           ,
           but
           only
           the
           Sister
           was
           not
           present
           ,
           so
           that
           I
           could
           not
           see
           how
           the
           conversation
           past
           between
           them
           in
           the
           dark
           .
        
         
           But
           before
           I
           give
           over
           writing
           concerning
           Rome
           ,
           I
           can●ot
           hinder
           my self
           ,
           from
           giving
           you
           an
           account
           of
           a
           conversation
           that
           I
           had
           with
           one
           of
           the
           most
           Celebrated
           persons
           that
           lives
           in
           it
           ;
           I
           was
           talking
           concerning
           the
           credit
           that
           the
           Order
           of
           the
           Iesuites
           had
           every
           where
           ;
           It
           was
           said
           ,
           that
           
             all
             the
             World
             mistrusted
             them
          
           ,
           and
           yet
           by
           a
           ●●range
           sort
           of
           Contradiction
           
             all
             the
             World
             trusted
             them
          
           ;
           and
           tho
           it
           was
           well
           known
           that
           every
           Iesuite
           was
           truer
           to
           the
           Interests
           of
           his
           Order
           than
           he
           could
           be
           ●o
           the
           Interests
           of
           any
           Prince
           whatsoever
           ,
           yet
           those
           Princes
           that
           would
           be
           very
           careful
           ,
           not
           to
           suffer
           Spys
           to
           come
           into
           their
           Courts
           ,
           or
           into
           their
           Coun●els
           ,
           suffered
           those
           Spys
           to
           come
           into
           their
           Breasts
           and
           Consciences
           :
           and
           tho
           Prin●es
           were
           not
           generally
           very
           tender
           in
           those
           parts
           ,
           yet
           as
           they
           had
           oft
           as
           much
           G●ilt
           ,
           so
           they
           had
           sometimes
           as
           much
           F●ar
           as
           other
           people
           ,
           which
           a
           dextrous
           Spy
           knew
           well
           how
           to
           manage
           .
           Upon
           which
           ,
           that
           Person
           ,
           that
           pretended
           to
           
           be
           a
           
             zealous
             Catholick
          
           ,
           added
           ,
           that
           for
           their
           part
           ,
           they
           considered
           only
           the
           Character
           that
           the
           Church
           gave
           to
           a
           Priest
           ;
           and
           if
           the
           Church
           qualified
           him
           to
           do
           the
           functions
           of
           a
           Priest
           ,
           they
           thought
           it
           very
           needless
           to
           enquire
           after
           other
           personal
           Qualities
           ,
           which
           were
           but
           common
           things
           ,
           whereas
           the
           other
           was
           all
           divine
           .
           On
           the
           Contrary
           ,
           they
           thought
           it
           was
           so
           much
           the
           better
           to
           have
           to
           do
           with
           a
           poor
           
             Ignorant
             Priest
          
           ;
           for
           then
           they
           had
           to
           do
           only
           with
           the
           Church
           ,
           and
           not
           with
           the
           Man.
           Pursuant
           to
           this
           ,
           that
           persons
           Confessor
           was
           the
           greatest
           ,
           and
           the
           most
           notorious
           Blo●khead
           that
           could
           be
           ●ound
           ;
           and
           when
           they
           were
           asked
           ,
           
             why
             they
             made
             use
             of
             so
             weak
             a
             man
          
           ;
           they
           answered
           ;
           
             hecause
             they
             could
             no●
             find
             a
             weaker
          
           :
           and
           when
           ever
           they
           found
           one
           better
           qualified
           that
           way
           ,
           if
           it
           were
           a
           Groom
           ,
           or
           a
           Footman
           that
           got
           into
           
             Pri●sts
             Orders
          
           ,
           they
           would
           certainly
           make
           use
           of
           him
           .
           For
           they
           would
           ask
           counsel
           of
           a
           Friend
           ;
           but
           they
           knew
           no
           other
           use
           of
           a
           Confessor
           ,
           but
           to
           confess
           to
           him
           ,
           and
           to
           receive
           Absalution
           from
           him
           :
           and
           in
           so
           doing
           ,
           they
           pretended
           they
           acted
           as
           became
           a
           
             true
             Catholi●k
          
           ,
           that
           considered
           only
           the
           Power
           of
           the
           Church
           in
           the
           Priest
           ,
           without
           regarding
           any
           thing
           else
           .
        
         
           So
           far
           have
           I
           entertained
           you
           with
           the
           short
           Ramble
           that
           I
           made
           ,
           which
           was
           too
           short
           to
           deserve
           the
           name
           of
           Travelling
           ,
           and
           therefore
           the
           Inquiries
           or
           Observations
           that
           I
           could
           make
           ,
           must
           be
           received
           with
           the
           Ab●tement
           that
           ought
           to
           be
           made
           for
           so
           short
           a
           stay
           ;
           and
           all
           will
           be
           of
           a
           piece
           ,
           when
           the
           Remarks
           are
           as
           slight
           ,
           as
           the
           Abode
           I
           made
           in
           the
           places
           through
           which
           I
           past
           was
           short
           .
           As
           I
           have
           avoided
           the
           troubling
           you
           with
           things
           that
           are
           commonly
           known
           ,
           so
           if
           I
           have
           not
           entertained
           you
           with
           a
           long
           recital
           of
           ordinary
           matters
           ;
           yet
           I
           have
           told
           you
           nothing
           but
           what
           I
           saw
           and
           knew
           to
           be
           true
           ,
           or
           that
           I
           had
           from
           such
           hands
           ,
           that
           I
           have
           very
           good
           reason
           to
           believe
           it
           :
           and
           I
           fancy
           ,
           that
           the
           things
           which
           made
           the
           greatest
           impression
           on
           my self
           ,
           will
           be
           acceptably
           received
           by
           you
           ,
           to
           whom
           ,
           as
           upon
           many
           accounts
           ,
           I
           owe
           all
           the
           expressions
           of
           Esteem
           and
           Gratitude
           that
           I
           can
           ever
           pay
           ;
           so
           I
           had
           a
           
           more
           particular
           reason
           ,
           that
           determined
           me
           to
           give
           you
           so
           full
           an
           account
           of
           all
           I
           saw
           and
           observed
           ,
           for
           as
           you
           were
           pleased
           at
           parting
           to
           do
           me
           the
           Honour
           ,
           to
           desire
           me
           to
           communicate
           to
           you
           such
           things
           as
           appeared
           most
           rema●kable
           to
           me
           ,
           so
           I
           found
           such
           a
           vast
           advantage
           in
           many
           places
           ,
           but
           more
           particularly
           at
           
             Veni●e
             ,
             Rome
          
           and
           Naples
           ,
           by
           the
           Happiness
           I
           have
           of
           being
           known
           to
           you
           ,
           and
           of
           being
           so
           far
           considered
           by
           you
           ,
           that
           I
           could
           give
           a
           copious
           account
           both
           of
           your
           Person
           and
           Studi●s
           ,
           to
           those
           in
           whom
           your
           curious
           Discoveries
           had
           kindled
           that
           esteem
           for
           you
           ,
           which
           all
           the
           World
           payeth
           both
           to
           you
           and
           to
           your
           immortal
           Inquir●es
           into
           Nature
           ,
           which
           are
           among
           the
           peculiar
           Blessings
           of
           this
           Age
           ;
           and
           that
           are
           read
           with
           no
           less
           care
           and
           pleasure
           in
           Italy
           than
           in
           England
           .
           This
           was
           so
           well
           received
           ,
           that
           I
           found
           the
           great
           advantage
           of
           this
           Honour
           I
           did
           my self
           in
           assuming
           the
           glorious
           Title
           of
           one
           of
           your
           Friends
           ;
           and
           I
           owe
           a
           great
           part
           of
           that
           distinction
           which
           I
           met
           with
           ,
           to
           this
           favourable
           Character
           that
           I
           gave
           my self
           ;
           so
           that
           if
           I
           made
           any
           progress
           in
           the
           Inquiries
           that
           so
           short
           a
           stay
           could
           inable
           one
           to
           make
           ,
           I
           owe
           it
           in
           so
           peculiar
           a
           manner
           to
           you
           ,
           that
           this
           Return
           that
           I
           make
           ,
           is
           but
           a
           very
           small
           part
           of
           that
           I
           owe
           you
           ,
           and
           which
           I
           will
           be
           indeavouring
           to
           pay
           you
           to
           the
           last
           moment
           of
           my
           life
           .
        
      
       
         
         
           THE
           FIFTH
           LETTER
           .
        
         
           
             
               From
               Nimmegen
            
             ,
             
               the
               20th
               of
               May
               ,
               1686.
               
            
          
           
             SIR
             ,
          
        
         
           I
           Thought
           I
           had
           made
           so
           full
           a
           Point
           at
           the
           conclusio●
           of
           my
           last
           Letter
           ,
           that
           I
           should
           not
           have
           given
           you
           the
           trouble
           of
           reading
           any
           more
           Letters
           of
           the
           volum
           of
           the
           former
           :
           But
           new
           Scenes
           ,
           and
           new
           matter
           offering
           themselves
           to
           me
           ,
           I
           fancy
           you
           will
           be
           very
           gentle
           to
           me
           ,
           if
           I
           ingage
           you
           again
           to
           two
           or
           three
           Hours
           reading
           .
        
         
           From
           
             C●vita
             Vecchia
          
           I
           came
           to
           Marseilles
           ,
           where
           〈◊〉
           there
           were
           a
           Road
           as
           Safe
           ,
           as
           the
           Harbour
           is
           Covered
           ;
           and
           if
           the
           Harbour
           were
           as
           Large
           ,
           as
           it
           is
           Convenient
           ,
           it
           were
           certainly
           one
           of
           the
           most
           important
           places
           in
           the
           World
           :
           all
           is
           so
           well
           defended
           ,
           that
           it
           is
           with
           respect
           either
           to
           Storms
           or
           Enemies
           ,
           the
           securest
           Port
           that
           can
           be
           seen
           any
           where
           .
           The
           Freedoms
           of
           this
           place
           ,
           ●ho
           it
           is
           now
           at
           the
           mercy
           of
           the
           Cittadel
           ,
           are
           such
           ,
           and
           its
           Scituation
           draweth
           so
           much
           Trade
           to
           it
           ;
           that
           there
           one
           seeth
           another
           appearance
           of
           Wealth
           ,
           than
           I
           found
           in
           any
           Town
           of
           France
           ;
           and
           there
           is
           a
           new
           Street
           lately
           built
           there
           ,
           that
           for
           the
           Beauty
           of
           the
           Buildings
           ,
           and
           the
           Largeness
           of
           the
           Street
           ,
           is
           the
           Noblest
           I
           ever
           saw
           .
           There
           is
           in
           that
           Port
           a
           perpetual
           heat
           ,
           and
           the
           Sun
           was
           as
           strong
           in
           the
           
             Christmas
             week
          
           ,
           that
           I
           was
           often
           driven
           off
           the
           Key
           .
           I
           made
           a
           Tour
           from
           thence
           through
           
             Province
             ,
             L●nguedo●
          
           ,
           and
           Dauphine
           .
           I
           will
           offer
           you
           no
           account
           of
           Nismes
           ,
           nor
           of
           the
           Amphitheatre
           in
           it
           ,
           or
           the
           
             Pont
             du
             Gar
          
           near
           it
           ;
           which
           as
           they
           are
           stupendious
           things
           ,
           so
           they
           are
           so
           copiously
           described
           by
           many
           ,
           and
           are
           so
           generally
           known
           
           to
           the
           
             English
             Nation
          
           ,
           that
           if
           you
           have
           never
           gone
           that
           way
           your self
           ,
           yet
           you
           must
           needs
           have
           received
           so
           particular
           a
           relation
           of
           them
           ,
           from
           those
           that
           have
           seen
           them
           on
           their
           way
           to
           Montpelier
           ,
           that
           I
           judge
           it
           needless
           to
           enlarge
           upon
           them
           :
           Nor
           will
           I
           say
           any
           thing
           of
           the
           Soil
           ,
           the
           Towns
           ,
           or
           any
           other
           rema●kable
           things
           that
           I
           found
           there
           ▪
        
         
           I
           have
           a
           much
           stronger
           inclination
           to
           say
           somewhat
           concerning
           
             the
             Persecution
          
           which
           I
           saw
           in
           its
           Rage
           and
           utmost
           Fury
           ;
           and
           of
           which
           I
           could
           give
           you
           many
           In●●ances
           ,
           that
           are
           so
           much
           beyond
           all
           the
           common
           measures
           of
           Barbarity
           and
           Cruelty
           ,
           that
           I
           confess
           they
           ought
           not
           to
           be
           believed
           ,
           unless
           I
           could
           give
           more
           positive
           proofs
           of
           them
           ,
           than
           are
           fitting
           now
           to
           be
           brought
           forth
           ;
           and
           the
           particulars
           that
           I
           could
           tell
           you
           are
           such
           ,
           that
           if
           I
           should
           relate
           them
           with
           the
           necessary
           Ci●cumstances
           of
           
             Time
             ,
             Place
          
           ,
           and
           Persons
           ,
           these
           might
           be
           so
           fatal
           to
           many
           that
           are
           yet
           in
           the
           power
           of
           their
           Enemies
           ,
           that
           my
           regard
           to
           them
           restrains
           me
           .
           In
           short
           ,
           I
           do
           not
           think
           that
           in
           ●y
           Age
           there
           ever
           was
           such
           a
           Violation
           of
           all
           that
           is
           Sacred
           ,
           either
           with
           relation
           to
           God
           or
           Man
           :
           And
           what
           I
           saw
           and
           knew
           there
           ,
           from
           the
           first
           hand
           ,
           hath
           so
           confirmed
           all
           the
           Idea's
           that
           I
           had
           taken
           from
           Books
           ,
           of
           the
           Cruelty
           of
           that
           Religion
           ,
           that
           I
           hope
           the
           impre●●ion
           that
           this
           hath
           made
           upon
           me
           ,
           shall
           never
           end
           but
           wich
           my
           Life
           :
           The
           Applauses
           that
           the
           whole
           Clergy
           give
           to
           this
           way
           of
           proceeding
           ,
           the
           many
           Panegyricks
           that
           are
           already
           writ
           upon
           it
           ,
           of
           which
           ,
           besides
           the
           more
           pompous
           ones
           that
           appear
           at
           Paris
           ,
           there
           are
           numbers
           writ
           by
           smaller
           Authors
           in
           every
           Town
           of
           any
           note
           there
           ;
           and
           the
           Sermons
           that
           are
           all
           flights
           of
           flattery
           upon
           this
           subject
           ,
           are
           such
           evident
           Demonstrations
           of
           their
           sense
           of
           this
           matter
           ,
           that
           what
           is
           now
           on
           foo●
           may
           be
           well
           termed
           ,
           
             the
             Act
             of
             the
             whole
             Clergy
             of
             France
             ,
          
           which
           yet
           hath
           been
           hitherto
           esteemed
           the
           most
           moderate
           part
           of
           the
           
             Roman
             Communion
          
           .
           If
           any
           are
           more
           moderate
           than
           others
           ;
           and
           have
           not
           so
           far
           laid
           off
           the
           humane
           nature
           ,
           as
           to
           go
           in
           intirely
           into
           those
           bloody
           Practices
           ,
           yet
           they
           dare
           not
           own
           it
           ,
           but
           whisper
           it
           in
           secret
           ,
           as
           if
           it
           
           were
           hals
           Treason
           :
           but
           for
           the
           greater
           part
           ,
           they
           do
           not
           only
           magnifie
           all
           that
           is
           done
           ,
           bur
           they
           animate
           even
           the
           Dragoo●s
           to
           higher
           degrees
           of
           Rage
           :
           and
           there
           was
           such
           a
           Heat
           spread
           over
           all
           the
           Country
           ,
           on
           this
           occasion
           ,
           that
           one
           could
           not
           go
           into
           any
           Ordinary
           ,
           or
           mix
           in
           any
           promiscuous
           conversation
           ,
           without
           fin●ing
           such
           effects
           of
           it
           ,
           that
           it
           was
           not
           easie
           for
           such
           as
           were
           toucht
           with
           ●he
           least
           degree
           o●
           Compassion
           for
           the
           Miseries
           that
           the
           poor
           Protestants
           suffered
           ,
           to
           be
           a
           witness
           to
           the
           Insulting●
           that
           they
           must
           meet
           with
           in
           all
           places
           .
           Some
           herhaps
           imagin
           ,
           that
           this
           hath
           not
           been
           approved
           in
           Italy
           ,
           and
           it
           is
           true
           ,
           there
           were
           not
           any
           publick
           Rejoycings
           upon
           it
           at
           R●me
           ;
           no
           Indulgen●es
           nor
           
             Te
             Deums
          
           were
           heard
           of
           :
           And
           the
           
             Spanish
             Facti●n
          
           being
           so
           prevalent
           there
           ,
           it
           is
           not
           strange
           if
           a
           course
           of
           proceedings
           ,
           that
           is
           without
           a●
           example
           ,
           was
           set
           forth
           ,
           by
           all
           that
           were
           o●
           
             that
             Interest
          
           ,
           in
           its
           proper
           colours
           ;
           of
           which
           I
           met
           with
           some
           instances
           my self
           ,
           and
           could
           no●
           but
           smile
           ,
           to
           see
           some
           of
           the
           
             Spanish
             Faction
          
           so
           far
           to
           forget
           their
           
             Courst
             of
             Inquisition
          
           ,
           as
           to
           argue
           against
           the
           Conversions
           by
           t●e
           Dragoons
           ,
           as
           a
           reproach
           to
           the
           
             Catholick
             Religion
          
           .
           Yet
           the
           Pope
           was
           of
           another
           mind
           ;
           for
           the
           
             Duke
             d'Estrées
          
           gave
           him
           an
           account
           of
           the
           
             Kings
             Proceedings
          
           in
           this
           matter
           very
           copiously
           ;
           as
           he
           himself
           related
           it
           .
           Upon
           which
           the
           Pope
           approved
           all
           ,
           and
           expressed
           a
           
             great
             Satisfactio●
          
           in
           every
           thing
           that
           the
           King
           had
           done
           in
           that
           matter
           ;
           and
           the
           Pope
           added
           ,
           that
           he
           found
           some
           Cardinals
           (
           as
           I
           remember
           the
           
             Duke
             d'Estrées
          
           said
           two
           )
           were
           not
           pleased
           with
           it
           ,
           and
           had
           taken
           the
           liberty
           to
           censure
           it
           ;
           but
           the
           Pope
           said
           ,
           
             they
             were
             too
             blame
          
           :
           The
           
             Duke
             d'Estrées
          
           did
           not
           n●me
           the
           two
           Cardinals
           ,
           tho
           he
           said
           ,
           he
           believed
           he
           knew
           who
           they
           were
           ;
           and
           it
           is
           very
           like
           that
           
             Cardinal
             Pio
          
           was
           one
           ;
           for
           I
           was
           told
           ,
           that
           he
           spoke
           freely
           enough
           of
           this
           matter
           .
           I
           must
           take
           the
           liberty
           to
           add
           one
           thing
           to
           you
           ,
           that
           I
           do
           not
           see
           that
           the
           
             French
             King
          
           is
           to
           be
           so
           much
           blamed
           in
           thit
           matter
           as
           his
           Religion
           i●
           ,
           which
           ,
           without
           question
           ,
           obligeth
           him
           to
           extirpate
           Hereticks
           ,
           and
           not
           to
           keep
           his
           Faith
           to
           them
           :
           so
           that
           
           i●stead
           of
           censuring
           him
           ,
           I
           must
           only
           lament
           his
           being
           bred
           up
           in
           a
           Reli●ion
           that
           doth
           certainly
           oblige
           him
           to
           ●ivest
           .
           himself
           of
           Humanity
           ,
           and
           to
           
             violate
             his
             Faith
          
           ,
           whensoever
           the
           cause
           of
           his
           Ch●rch
           and
           Religion
           requi●e●h
           it
           :
           Or
           if
           there
           is
           any
           thing
           in
           this
           conduct
           ,
           that
           can●ot
           be
           entirely
           justified
           from
           the
           
             Principl●s
             of
             that
             R●ligion
          
           ▪
           it
           is
           this
           ●
           that
           
             be
             doch
             not
             put
             the
             Hereticks
             to
             Death
             〈◊〉
             of
             hand
             ,
             but
             that
             he
             forceth
             them
             ,
             by
             all
             the
             Extremi●●es
             possible
             ,
             to
             sign
             an
             Abju●ation
             ,
             that
             all
             the
             World
             must
             needs
             see
             ,
             is
             done
             against
             their
             Cons●iences
          
           :
           And
           t●is
           being
           the
           only
           End
           of
           their
           Miseries
           ;
           those
           that
           would
           think
           any
           sort
           of
           Death
           a
           happy
           conclusion
           of
           their
           Suffer●ngs
           ,
           seeing
           no
           prospect
           of
           such
           a
           glorious
           issue
           out
           of
           their
           Trouble
           ,
           are
           prevailed
           on
           by
           the
           many
           
             lingring
             Deaths
          
           ▪
           of
           which
           they
           see
           no
           end
           ,
           to
           make
           Shipwrack
           of
           the
           Faith
           :
           This
           appearance
           of
           Mercy
           ,
           in
           not
           putting
           men
           to
           Death
           ,
           doth
           truly
           verifie
           the
           Character
           that
           Solo●●●
           giveth
           of
           the
           tender
           Mercies
           of
           the
           wicked
           ,
           
             that
             they
             〈◊〉
             cruel
          
           .
        
         
           But
           I
           will
           stop
           here
           ,
           tho
           it
           is
           not
           easy
           to
           retire
           from
           so
           copious
           a
           subject
           ,
           that
           as
           it
           affordeth
           so
           much
           matter
           ▪
           so
           upon
           many
           accounts
           ,
           raiseth
           a
           heat
           of
           thought
           ,
           that
           i●
           not
           easily
           governed
           .
           I
           will
           now
           lead
           you
           to
           a
           Scene
           that
           giveth
           less
           passion
           .
        
         
           I
           past
           the
           Winter
           at
           Geneva
           ,
           with
           more
           satisfaction
           than
           I
           had
           thought
           it
           was
           possible
           for
           me
           to
           have
           found
           a●y
           where
           out
           of
           England
           :
           tho
           that
           received
           great
           allayes
           from
           the
           most
           lamentabl●
           Stories
           that
           we
           had
           every
           day
           from
           France
           :
           But
           
             there
             is
             a
             Sorrow
             by
             which
             the
             Heart
             is
             made
             better
             .
          
           I
           ought
           to
           make
           the
           most
           publick
           aknowledgments
           possible
           for
           the
           Extraordinary
           Civilities
           that
           I
           met
           with
           in
           my
           own
           particular
           :
           but
           that
           is
           too
           low
           a
           Subject
           〈◊〉
           entertain
           you
           with
           it
           .
           That
           which
           pleased
           me
           most
           ,
           was
           of
           a
           more
           publick
           nature
           ;
           before
           I
           left
           Geneva
           ,
           the
           ●umber
           of
           the
           English
           there
           was
           such
           ,
           that
           I
           ●ound
           we
           could
           ●ake
           a
           small
           Congregation
           ;
           for
           we
           were
           twelve
           or
           four●een
           ;
           so
           I
           addessed
           my self
           to
           the
           Council
           of
           25.
           for
           Liberty
           to
           ●●ve
           our
           own
           Worship
           in
           our
           own
           Language
           ,
           according
           to
           
           the
           
             English
             Liturgy
          
           .
           This
           was
           immediately
           granted
           in
           so
           obliging
           a
           manner
           ,
           that
           as
           there
           was
           not
           one
           person
           that
           made
           any
           Exception
           to
           it
           ,
           so
           they
           sent
           one
           of
           their
           Body
           to
           me
           ,
           to
           let
           me
           know
           ,
           that
           in
           case
           our
           number
           should
           grow
           to
           be
           so
           great
           ,
           that
           it
           were
           fit
           for
           us
           to
           assemble
           in
           a
           Church
           ,
           they
           would
           grant
           us
           one
           ,
           which
           had
           been
           done
           in
           Queen
           
             Maries
             Reign
          
           :
           but
           till
           then
           ▪
           we
           might
           hold
           our
           Assemblys
           as
           we
           thought
           fit
           .
           So
           after
           that
           time
           ,
           during
           the
           rest
           of
           my
           stay
           there
           ,
           we
           had
           every
           Sunday
           our
           Devotions
           according
           to
           the
           Common-Prayer
           Morning
           and
           Evening
           :
           and
           at
           the
           Evening
           Prayer
           ,
           I
           preacht
           in
           a
           Room
           that
           was
           indeed
           too
           large
           for
           our
           small
           Company
           ;
           but
           thete
           being
           a
           considerable
           number
           in
           Geneva
           that
           Understand
           English
           ,
           and
           in
           particular
           some
           of
           the
           Profess●rs
           and
           Ministers
           ;
           we
           had
           a
           great
           many
           Strangers
           that
           met
           with
           us
           :
           and
           the
           last
           Sunday
           I
           gave
           the
           Sacrament
           according
           to
           the
           way
           of
           the
           
             Church
             of
             England
          
           ;
           and
           upon
           this
           occasion
           ,
           I
           found
           a
           general
           joy
           in
           the
           Town
           ,
           for
           this
           ,
           that
           I
           had
           given
           them
           an
           Opportunity
           of
           expressing
           the
           respect
           they
           had
           for
           our
           Ch●rch
           ;
           and
           as
           in
           their
           publick
           Prayer●
           they
           alwayes
           prayed
           for
           the
           
             Chur●hes
             of
             Great
             ●rittain
          
           ,
           as
           well
           as
           for
           the
           King
           ,
           so
           in
           private
           Discourse
           they
           shewed
           all
           possible
           esteem
           for
           our
           Constitutions
           ;
           and
           they
           spoke
           of
           the
           unhappy
           Divisions
           among
           us
           ,
           and
           of
           the
           Separation
           that
           was
           made
           from
           us
           ,
           upon
           the
           account
           of
           ou●
           Government
           and
           Ceremonies
           ,
           with
           great
           regret
           and
           dislike
           .
           I
           shall
           name
           to
           you
           only
           two
           of
           their
           Professours
           ,
           that
           as
           they
           are
           Men
           of
           great
           Distinction
           ,
           so
           they
           were
           the
           pe●sons
           with
           whom
           I
           conversed
           the
           most
           .
           The
           one
           is
           
             Mr.
             T●●retin
          
           ,
           a
           Man
           of
           great
           Learning
           ,
           that
           by
           his
           Indefat●gable
           Study
           and
           Labour
           has
           much
           worn
           out
           ,
           and
           wasted
           hi●
           strength
           ;
           amidst
           all
           the
           affluence
           of
           a
           great
           plenty
           of
           Fortune
           to
           which
           he
           was
           born
           ,
           one
           discerns
           in
           him
           all
           〈◊〉
           Modesty
           of
           a
           humble
           and
           mortified
           temper
           ,
           and
           of
           a●
           active
           and
           fervent
           Charity
           ,
           proportioned
           to
           his
           Abu●dance
           ,
           or
           rather
           beyond
           it
           :
           And
           there
           is
           in
           him
           such
           ●
           melting
           Zeal
           for
           Religion
           ,
           as
           the
           present
           conjuncture
           〈◊〉
           for
           ,
           with
           all
           the
           seriousness
           of
           Piety
           and
           Devotion
           ,
           whi●●
           
           shews
           it
           felf
           both
           in
           private
           conversation
           and
           in
           his
           most
           edifying
           Sermons
           ,
           by
           which
           he
           enters
           deep
           into
           the
           Consciences
           of
           his
           Hearers
           .
           The
           other
           is
           
             Mr.
             Tron●hin
          
           ,
           a
           Man
           of
           a
           strong
           Head
           ,
           and
           of
           a
           clear
           and
           correct
           Judgment
           ;
           who
           has
           all
           his
           thoughts
           well
           digested
           ;
           his
           Conversation
           has
           an
           engaging
           charm
           in
           it
           that
           cannot
           be
           resisted
           :
           He
           i●
           a
           Man
           of
           Extraordinary
           vertue
           ,
           and
           of
           a
           Readiness
           to
           oblige
           and
           serve
           all
           persons
           ,
           that
           ha●
           scarce
           any
           measures
           :
           His
           Sermons
           have
           a
           sublimity
           in
           them
           ,
           that
           strikes
           the
           Hearer
           ,
           as
           well
           as
           it
           edifyes
           him
           :
           His
           Thoughts
           are
           noble
           ,
           and
           his
           Eloquence
           is
           Masculine
           and
           exact
           ,
           and
           has
           all
           the
           Majesty
           of
           the
           Chair
           in
           it
           ,
           tempered
           with
           all
           the
           Softness
           of
           Persuasion
           ,
           so
           that
           he
           not
           only
           convinces
           ●is
           Hearers
           ,
           but
           subdues
           them
           ,
           and
           triumphs
           over
           them
           .
           In
           such
           Company
           it
           was
           no
           wonder
           ,
           if
           time
           seemed
           to
           go
           off
           too
           fast
           ,
           so
           that
           I
           left
           Geneva
           with
           a
           concern
           ,
           that
           I
           could
           not
           have
           felt
           in
           leaving
           any
           place
           ,
           out
           of
           the
           
             Isl●
             of
             Brittain
          
           .
        
         
           From
           Geneva
           ,
           I
           went
           a
           second
           time
           through
           Switzerland
           to
           Basil
           :
           at
           Avanche
           I
           saw
           the
           Noble
           Fragments
           of
           a
           great
           
             Roman
             Work
          
           ,
           which
           seems
           to
           have
           been
           the
           Portico
           to
           some
           Temple
           :
           the
           Heads
           of
           the
           Pillars
           are
           about
           four
           Foot
           square
           ,
           of
           the
           Ionick
           Order
           ;
           the
           Temple
           hath
           been
           dedicated
           to
           Neptune
           ,
           or
           some
           Sea-god
           ▪
           for
           on
           the
           Fragments
           of
           the
           Architrave
           ,
           which
           are
           very
           beautiful
           ,
           there
           are
           Dolphins
           and
           Sea-horses
           in
           
             Bas
             Reliefs
          
           ;
           and
           the
           Neighbourhood
           of
           the
           place
           to
           the
           Lakes
           of
           Iverd●n
           and
           Morat
           maketh
           this
           moré
           evident
           :
           there
           is
           also
           a
           Pillar
           standing
           up
           in
           its
           full
           height
           ,
           or
           rather
           the
           Corner
           of
           a
           Building
           ,
           in
           which
           one
           seeth
           the
           Rests
           of
           a
           regular
           Archi●●cture
           in
           two
           ranks
           of
           Pillars
           :
           If
           the
           ground
           near
           this
           were
           carefully
           searcht
           ,
           no
           doubt
           it
           would
           discover
           more
           ●ests
           of
           that
           Fabrick
           .
           Not
           far
           from
           this
           is
           Morat
           ;
           and
           a
           little
           on
           this
           side
           of
           it
           is
           a
           Chappel
           ,
           full
           of
           the
           Bones
           of
           ●he
           Burgundians
           ,
           that
           were
           killed
           by
           the
           Switzers
           ,
           when
           this
           place
           was
           besieged
           by
           the
           famous
           
             Charles
             Duke
             of
             ●urgundy
          
           ,
           who
           lost
           a
           great
           Army
           before
           it
           ,
           that
           was
           ●ntirely
           cut
           off
           by
           the
           besieged
           ;
           the
           Inscription
           is
           very
           
           extraordinary
           ,
           especially
           for
           that
           Age
           :
           for
           the
           bones
           being
           so
           piled
           up
           ,
           that
           the
           Chappel
           is
           quite
           filled
           with
           them
           ,
           the
           Inscription
           bears
           ,
           that
           
             Charles
             Duke
             of
             Burgundy's
             Army
          
           having
           besieged
           
             Morat
             ,
             Hoc
             sui
             Monume●tum
             reliquiet
             ,
             had
             left
             that
             Monument
             behind
             it
             .
          
           It
           cannot
           but
           seem
           strange
           to
           one
           that
           views
           Morat
           ,
           to
           imagin
           how
           it
           was
           possible
           for
           a
           Town
           so
           scituated
           ,
           and
           so
           slightly
           fortified
           ,
           to
           hold
           out
           against
           so
           powerful
           a
           Prince
           ,
           and
           so
           great
           an
           Army
           ,
           that
           brought
           Canon
           before
           it
           .
           I
           met
           with
           nothing
           remarkable
           between
           this
           and
           Basil
           ,
           except
           that
           I
           staid
           sometime
           at
           Bern
           ,
           and
           knew
           it
           better
           ;
           and
           at
           this
           second
           time
           it
           was
           ,
           that
           My
           
             Lord
             Advoyer
             d'
             Erlach
          
           gave
           Order
           to
           shew
           me
           the
           
             Original
             Records
          
           of
           the
           famous
           Process
           of
           the
           
             four
             Dominicans
          
           ;
           upon
           which
           I
           have
           retoucht
           the
           Letter
           that
           I
           writ
           to
           you
           last
           year
           ,
           so
           that
           I
           now
           send
           it
           to
           you
           with
           the
           Corrections
           and
           Inlargements
           ,
           that
           this
           second
           stay
           at
           Bern
           gave
           me
           occasion
           to
           make
           .
        
         
           Basil
           is
           the
           Town
           of
           the
           greatest
           extent
           of
           all
           Switzerland
           ,
           but
           it
           is
           not
           inhabited
           in
           proportion
           to
           its
           extent
           .
           The
           Rhine
           maketh
           a
           Crook
           before
           it
           ;
           and
           the
           Town
           is
           scituated
           on
           a
           rising
           ground
           ,
           which
           hath
           a
           noble
           effect
           on
           the
           Eye
           ,
           when
           one
           is
           on
           the
           Bridge
           ;
           for
           it
           looketh
           like
           a
           Theater
           .
           Little
           Basil
           on
           the
           other
           side
           of
           the
           Rhine
           ,
           is
           almost
           a
           fourth
           part
           of
           the
           whole
           :
           the
           Town
           is
           surrounded
           with
           a
           Wall
           and
           Ditch
           ;
           but
           it
           is
           so
           exposed
           on
           so
           many
           sides
           ,
           and
           hath
           now
           so
           dreadful
           a
           Neighbour
           within
           a
           quarter
           of
           a
           League
           of
           it
           ,
           the
           
             Fort
             of
             Hunningen
          
           ,
           that
           it
           hath
           nothing
           to
           trust
           to
           ,
           humanely
           speaking
           ,
           but
           its
           Vnion
           with
           the
           other
           Cantons
           .
           The
           Maxims
           of
           this
           Canton
           have
           hindred
           its
           being
           better
           peopled
           than
           it
           is
           ;
           the
           Advantages
           of
           the
           Burgership
           are
           such
           ,
           that
           the
           Citizens
           will
           not
           share
           them
           with
           Strangers
           ,
           and
           by
           this
           mean●
           they
           do
           not
           admit
           them
           .
           For
           I
           was
           told
           ,
           that
           during
           the
           last
           War
           ,
           that
           Alsatia
           was
           so
           often
           the
           Seat
           of
           both
           
             Armys
             ,
             Basil
          
           having
           then
           a
           Neutrality
           ,
           it
           might
           have
           been
           well
           filled
           ,
           if
           it
           had
           not
           been
           for
           this
           Maxim.
           And
           i●
           were
           a
           great
           Happiness
           to
           all
           the
           Cantons
           ,
           if
           they
           could
           
           have
           diffecent
           
             Degrees
             of
             Burgership
          
           ,
           so
           that
           the
           
             lower
             Degrees
          
           might
           be
           given
           to
           Strangers
           for
           their
           Incouragement
           to
           come
           and
           live
           among
           them
           :
           and
           the
           
             higher
             Degrees
          
           ,
           which
           qualifie
           Men
           for
           the
           advantagious
           Imployments
           of
           the
           State
           ,
           might
           he
           reserved
           for
           the
           
             Ancient
             Fa●ilies
          
           of
           the
           
             Natives
             .
             Basil
          
           is
           divided
           into
           
             six●een
             C●mpa●ies
          
           ,
           and
           every
           one
           of
           these
           hath
           
             four
             Members
          
           in
           the
           
             little
             Council
          
           ,
           so
           that
           it
           consisteth
           of
           
             six●y
             four
          
           :
           But
           of
           those
           ●our
           ,
           two
           are
           chosen
           by
           the
           Company
           it self
           ,
           who
           are
           called
           the
           Masters
           ,
           and
           the
           other
           two
           are
           chosen
           by
           the
           Council
           out
           of
           the
           Company
           ;
           and
           thus
           as
           there
           are
           two
           sorts
           of
           C●un●ellors
           ,
           chosen
           in
           those
           different
           manners
           ,
           there
           are
           also
           two
           chief
           Magistrates
           .
           There
           are
           
             two
             Bur●ermasters
          
           ,
           that
           Reign
           by
           turns
           ,
           and
           two
           
             Zunft
             .
             Ma●ters
          
           ,
           that
           have
           also
           their
           turns
           ,
           and
           all
           is
           for
           life
           ;
           and
           ●he
           last
           are
           the
           Heads
           of
           the
           C●mpanies
           ,
           like
           the
           
             Romans
             Tribunes
          
           of
           the
           People
           .
           The
           Fabrick
           of
           the
           
             State
             House
          
           is
           ancient
           ;
           there
           is
           very
           good
           paintin●
           in
           fresco
           upon
           the
           Walls
           ;
           one
           piece
           hath
           given
           much
           offence
           to
           the
           Papists
           ,
           ●ho
           they
           have
           no
           Reason
           to
           blame
           the
           Reformation
           for
           it
           ,
           since
           it
           was
           done
           several
           years
           before
           it
           ,
           in
           the
           year
           1510.
           ●t
           is
           a
           Representation
           of
           the
           
             Day
             of
             Iudgement
          
           ,
           and
           after
           Sentence
           given
           ,
           the
           Devil
           is
           represented
           driving
           many
           ●efore
           him
           to
           Hell
           ,
           and
           among
           these
           there
           is
           a
           Pope
           ,
           and
           ●everal
           E●clesiasticks
           .
           But
           it
           is
           believed
           ,
           that
           the
           C●un●il
           ,
           which
           sate
           so
           long
           in
           this
           place
           ,
           acting
           so
           vigorously
           ●gainst
           the
           Pope
           ,
           ingaged
           the
           Town
           into
           such
           a
           hatred
           of
           the
           P●pacy
           ,
           thas
           this
           might
           give
           the
           rise
           to
           this
           Repre●entation
           The
           more
           learned
           in
           the
           Town
           ascribe
           the
           be●inning
           of
           the
           Custom
           in
           Basil
           of
           the
           Clocks
           anticipating
           ●he
           time
           a
           full
           Hour
           ,
           to
           the
           sitting
           of
           the
           Council
           ,
           and
           ●hey
           say
           ,
           that
           in
           order
           to
           the
           Advancing
           of
           business
           ,
           and
           ●he
           shortning
           ●heir
           S●ssions
           ,
           they
           ordered
           their
           Clocks
           to
           be
           set
           forward
           an
           Hour
           ,
           which
           continueth
           to
           this
           day
           .
           The
           Cathedral
           is
           a
           great
           old
           Gothick
           Building
           ;
           the
           Cham●er
           where
           the
           Coun●il
           sate
           ,
           is
           of
           no
           great
           reception
           ,
           ●nd
           is
           a
           very
           ordinary
           Room
           :
           
             Erasmus's
             Tomb
          
           is
           only
           ●
           plain
           Ins●ription
           upon
           a
           great
           Brass
           Plate
           :
           There
           are
           
           many
           of
           
             Holbens's
             Pictures
          
           here
           ,
           who
           was
           a
           native
           of
           Basil
           ,
           and
           was
           recommended
           by
           Erasmus
           to
           
             King
             H●nry
          
           the
           VIII
           .
           the
           two
           best
           are
           a
           Corpo
           or
           
             Christ
             Dead
          
           ,
           which
           is
           certainly
           one
           of
           the
           best
           Pictures
           in
           the
           World
           :
           There
           is
           another
           Piece
           of
           his
           in
           the
           Stadt-House
           (
           for
           this
           is
           in
           the
           
             publick
             Library
          
           )
           of
           about
           three
           or
           four
           foot
           square
           ,
           in
           which
           ,
           in
           six
           several
           Cantons
           ,
           the
           several
           parts
           of
           our
           
             Saviours
             Passion
          
           are
           represented
           with
           a
           life
           and
           beauty
           that
           cannot
           be
           enough
           admired
           ;
           it
           is
           valued
           at
           
             ten
             thousand
             Crowns
          
           ;
           it
           is
           on
           Wood
           ,
           but
           hath
           that
           Freshness
           of
           colour
           still
           on
           it
           ,
           that
           seems
           particular
           to
           
             Holbens's
             Pencil
          
           .
           There
           is
           also
           a
           Dance
           ,
           that
           he
           painted
           on
           the
           Walls
           of
           an
           House
           where
           he
           used
           to
           drink
           ,
           that
           is
           so
           worn
           out
           ,
           that
           very
           little
           is
           now
           to
           be
           seen
           ,
           except
           shapes
           and
           Postures
           :
           but
           these
           shew
           the
           exquisiteness
           of
           the
           Haud
           .
           There
           is
           another
           longer
           Dance
           ,
           that
           runneth
           all
           along
           the
           side
           of
           the
           Convent
           of
           the
           Augustinians
           ,
           which
           is
           now
           the
           
             French
             Church
          
           ,
           which
           is
           
             Deaths
             Dance
          
           ;
           there
           are
           above
           threescore
           Figures
           in
           it
           at
           full
           length
           ,
           of
           Persons
           of
           all
           ranks
           ,
           from
           
             Popes
             ,
             Emperors
          
           and
           Kings
           ,
           down
           to
           the
           meanest
           sorts
           of
           Peopl●
           ,
           and
           of
           all
           Ages
           and
           Professions
           ,
           to
           whom
           Death
           appeareth
           in
           an
           insolent
           and
           surprizing
           posture
           ;
           and
           the
           several
           Passions
           that
           they
           express
           ,
           are
           so
           well
           set
           out
           ,
           that
           this
           was
           certainly
           a
           great
           design
           .
           But
           the
           Fresco
           being
           exposed
           to
           the
           Air
           ,
           this
           was
           so
           worn
           out
           some
           time
           ago
           ,
           ●hat
           they
           ordered
           the
           best
           Painter
           they
           had
           to
           lay
           new
           Colours
           on
           it
           ;
           hut
           this
           is
           so
           ill
           done
           ,
           that
           one
           had
           rather
           see
           the
           dead
           shadows
           of
           
             Holbens's
             Pencil
          
           ,
           than
           this
           course
           work
           .
           There
           is
           in
           Basil
           a
           Gun-Smith
           ,
           that
           maketh
           Wind-Guns
           ,
           and
           he
           shewed
           me
           one
           ,
           that
           as
           it
           received
           at
           once
           Air
           for
           
             ten
             shot
          
           ,
           so
           it
           had
           this
           peculiar
           to
           it
           ,
           which
           he
           pretends
           is
           his
           own
           Invention
           ,
           that
           he
           can
           Discharge
           all
           the
           Air
           that
           can
           be
           parcelled
           out
           in
           ten
           shot
           
             at
             once
          
           ,
           to
           give
           a
           home
           blow
           .
           I
           confess
           those
           are
           terrible
           Instruments
           ,
           and
           it
           seems
           the
           interest
           of
           mankind
           to
           forbid
           them
           quite
           ,
           since
           they
           can
           be
           imployed
           to
           Assassinate
           Pe●sons
           so
           dextrously
           ,
           that
           neither
           Noise
           nor
           Fire
           will
           discover
           from
           what
           hand
           the
           Shot
           comes
           .
           The
           Library
           of
           Basil
           is
           b●
           
           much
           the
           best
           in
           all
           Switzerland
           ,
           there
           is
           a
           fine
           collection
           of
           Medals
           in
           it
           ,
           and
           a
           very
           handsome
           
             Library
             of
             Manuscripts
          
           ;
           the
           Room
           is
           Noble
           ,
           and
           disposed
           in
           a
           very
           good
           Method
           .
           Their
           Manuscripts
           are
           chiefly
           ,
           the
           
             Latin
             Fathers
          
           ,
           or
           Latin
           Translations
           of
           the
           
             Greek
             Fathers
          
           ,
           some
           good
           Bibles
           ;
           they
           have
           the
           Gospel
           in
           
             Greek
             Capitals
          
           ,
           but
           they
           are
           vitiously
           writ
           in
           many
           places
           ;
           there
           is
           an
           infinite
           number
           of
           the
           Writers
           of
           the
           darker
           Ages
           ,
           and
           there
           are
           Legends
           and
           Sermo●s
           without
           number
           .
           All
           the
           Books
           that
           were
           in
           the
           several
           Monasteries
           ,
           at
           the
           time
           of
           the
           Refor●ation
           ,
           were
           carefully
           preserved
           ;
           and
           they
           believe
           ,
           that
           the
           Bishops
           who
           sate
           here
           in
           the
           Council
           ,
           brought
           with
           them
           a
           great
           many
           Manuscripts
           whi●h
           they
           never
           carried
           away
           .
           Among
           their
           Manu●cripts
           ,
           I
           saw
           four
           of
           
             Huss's
             Letters
          
           ,
           that
           he
           writ
           to
           the
           Bohemians
           the
           day
           before
           his
           death
           ,
           which
           are
           very
           devout
           ,
           but
           excessively
           simple
           .
           The
           Manuscripts
           of
           this
           Library
           are
           far
           more
           numerous
           than
           those
           of
           Bern
           ,
           which
           were
           gathered
           by
           Bongarsius
           ,
           and
           left
           by
           him
           to
           the
           publick
           Library
           there
           :
           they
           are
           indeed
           very
           little
           considered
           there
           ,
           and
           are
           the
           worst
           kept
           that
           ever
           I
           saw
           :
           But
           it
           is
           a
           Noble
           Col●ecti●n
           of
           all
           the
           ancient
           
             Latin
             Authors
          
           ;
           they
           have
           some
           few
           of
           the
           best
           of
           the
           Roman
           times
           ,
           writ
           in
           great
           Characters
           ,
           and
           there
           are
           many
           that
           are
           seven
           or
           eight
           hundred
           Years
           old
           .
           There
           is
           in
           Basil
           one
           of
           the
           best
           collections
           of
           Medals
           that
           ever
           I
           saw
           in
           private
           hands
           ;
           together
           with
           a
           Noble
           Library
           ,
           in
           which
           there
           are
           Manus●ripts
           of
           good
           antiquity
           ,
           that
           belongs
           to
           the
           
             Family
             of
             Fesch
          
           ,
           and
           that
           goeth
           from
           one
           learned
           man
           of
           the
           Family
           to
           another
           ;
           for
           this
           Inheritan●e
           can
           only
           pass
           to
           a
           man
           of
           Learning
           ,
           and
           when
           the
           Family
           produceth
           none
           ,
           then
           it
           is
           to
           go
           to
           the
           publick
           In
           Basil
           ,
           as
           the
           several
           Cempa●ies
           have
           been
           more
           or
           less
           strict
           ,
           in
           admitting
           some
           to
           a
           Freedom
           in
           the
           Company
           ,
           that
           have
           not
           been
           of
           the
           Trade
           ,
           so
           they
           retain
           ●heir
           Privil●dges
           to
           ●his
           day
           .
           For
           in
           such
           Compa●ies
           ,
           that
           have
           once
           received
           such
           a
           number
           that
           have
           not
           been
           of
           the
           Trade
           ,
           ●s
           grew
           to
           be
           the
           majority
           ,
           the
           Trade
           hath
           never
           been
           able
           ●o
           recove●
           their
           Interest
           .
           But
           some
           Companies
           have
           been
           
           more
           cautions
           ,
           and
           have
           never
           admitted
           any
           but
           those
           that
           were
           of
           the
           Trade
           ,
           so
           that
           they
           retain
           their
           Interes●
           still
           in
           Government
           .
           Of
           these
           the
           Butchers
           were
           named
           for
           one
           ,
           so
           that
           there
           are
           alwayes
           four
           Butc●ers
           in
           the
           Council
           ▪
           The
           great
           Council
           consisteth
           of
           
             two
             hundred
             and
             forty
          
           ▪
           but
           they
           have
           no
           power
           left
           them
           ,
           and
           they
           are
           only
           assembled
           upon
           some
           extraordinary
           occasions
           ;
           when
           the
           
             little
             Council
          
           thinketh
           fit
           to
           communicate
           any
           important
           matter
           to
           them
           .
           There
           are
           but
           six
           Bailiages
           that
           belong
           to
           Basil
           ,
           which
           are
           not
           imployments
           of
           great
           advantage
           ;
           for
           the
           best
           of
           them
           doth
           afford
           to
           the
           Baili●
           only
           a
           thousand
           Livres
           a
           Year
           :
           They
           re●kon
           that
           there
           are
           in
           Basil
           three
           thousand
           Men
           that
           can
           bear
           Arms
           ,
           an●
           that
           they
           could
           raise
           four
           thousand
           more
           out
           of
           the
           Canton
           ;
           so
           that
           the
           Town
           is
           almost
           the
           half
           of
           this
           State
           and
           the
           whole
           maketh
           thirty
           Parishes
           .
           There
           are
           eighteen
           Professors
           in
           this
           University
           ;
           and
           there
           is
           a
           Spirit
           of
           ●
           more
           free
           and
           generous
           Learning
           stirring
           there
           ,
           than
           I
           sa●
           in
           all
           those
           parts
           .
           The●e
           is
           a
           great
           decency
           of
           Habit
           i●
           Basil
           ;
           and
           the
           Garb
           both
           of
           the
           Councellors
           ,
           Minister●
           and
           Professors
           ,
           their
           
             stiff
             Rufs
          
           ,
           and
           their
           
             long
             Beards
          
           ▪
           have
           an
           Air
           that
           is
           August
           :
           The
           appointments
           are
           but
           smal●
           for
           
             Councellors
             ;
             Ministers
          
           and
           Professors
           ,
           have
           but
           ●
           hundred
           Crowns
           a
           piece
           :
           It
           is
           true
           ,
           many
           Minister●
           are
           Professors
           ,
           so
           this
           mendeth
           the
           matter
           a
           little
           :
           B●●
           perhaps
           it
           would
           go
           better
           with
           the
           State
           of
           Learnin●
           there
           ,
           if
           they
           had
           but
           half
           the
           number
           of
           Pro●●ssors
           ▪
           and
           if
           those
           were
           a
           little
           better
           incouraged
           .
           No
           wher●
           is
           the
           rule
           of
           
             St.
             Paul
          
           [
           of
           Womens
           having
           on
           thei●
           heads
           the
           Badge
           of
           the
           Authority
           under
           which
           they
           ar●
           brought
           ,
           which
           by
           a
           phra●e
           that
           is
           not
           extraordinar●
           he
           calleth
           Power
           ]
           better
           observed
           than
           at
           Basil
           ;
           fo●
           all
           the
           
             Marri●d
             Women
          
           go
           to
           Church
           with
           a
           Coi●
           o●
           their
           Heads
           ,
           that
           is
           so
           ●olded
           ,
           that
           as
           it
           cometh
           dow●
           so
           far
           as
           to
           cover
           their
           Eyes
           ,
           so
           another
           folding
           covereth
           also
           their
           M●uth
           and
           Chin
           ,
           so
           that
           nothing
           〈◊〉
           the
           Nose
           appears
           ,
           and
           then
           all
           turns
           backward
           in
           a
           ●oling
           ,
           that
           hangeth
           down
           to
           their
           midleg
           .
           This
           is
           alw●●●
           
           White
           ;
           so
           that
           there
           is
           there
           such
           a
           sight
           of
           
             White
             Heads
          
           in
           their
           Churches
           ,
           as
           cannot
           be
           found
           any
           where
           else
           :
           The
           
             Unmarried
             Women
          
           wear
           Hats
           ,
           turned
           up
           in
           the
           brims
           before
           and
           behind
           ;
           and
           the
           brims
           of
           the
           sides
           being
           about
           a
           foot
           broad
           ,
           stand
           out
           far
           on
           both
           hands
           :
           This
           fashion
           is
           also
           at
           Strasburg
           ,
           and
           is
           worn
           there
           also
           by
           the
           
             Married
             Women
          
           .
        
         
           I
           mentioned
           formerly
           the
           constant
           danger
           to
           which
           this
           Place
           is
           exposed
           ,
           from
           the
           neighbourhood
           of
           Hun●ingen
           ;
           I
           was
           told
           ,
           that
           at
           first
           it
           was
           pretended
           ,
           that
           the
           
             French
             King
          
           intended
           to
           build
           only
           a
           small
           Fort
           there
           ,
           and
           it
           was
           believed
           ,
           that
           one
           of
           the
           Burgomasters
           of
           Basil
           ,
           who
           was
           thought
           not
           only
           the
           wisest
           man
           of
           that
           Canton
           ,
           but
           of
           all
           Switzerland
           ,
           was
           gained
           to
           lay
           all
           men
           asleep
           ,
           and
           to
           as●ure
           them
           ,
           that
           the
           suffering
           this
           Fort
           to
           be
           built
           so
           near
           them
           ,
           was
           of
           no
           importance
           to
           them
           ;
           but
           now
           they
           see
           too
           late
           their
           fatal
           Error
           :
           For
           the
           place
           is
           great
           ,
           and
           will
           hold
           a
           Garrison
           of
           three
           or
           four
           thousand
           Men
           ;
           it
           is
           a
           Pentagone
           ,
           only
           the
           side
           to
           the
           Rhine
           is
           so
           large
           ,
           that
           if
           it
           went
           round
           on
           that
           side
           ,
           I
           believe
           it
           must
           have
           been
           a
           Hexagone
           ;
           the
           Bastions
           have
           all
           Orillons
           ,
           and
           in
           ●he
           middle
           of
           them
           there
           is
           a
           void
           space
           ,
           not
           filled
           up
           with
           earth
           ,
           where
           there
           is
           a
           Magazine
           built
           so
           thick
           in
           the
           Vault
           ,
           that
           it
           is
           proof
           against
           Bombs
           :
           The
           R●mparts
           ,
           are
           strongly
           faced
           ;
           There
           is
           a
           large
           Ditch
           ,
           and
           before
           the
           Cortine
           ,
           in
           the
           middle
           of
           the
           Ditch
           ,
           there
           runs
           all
           along
           a
           
             Horn
             work
          
           ,
           which
           is
           but
           ten
           or
           twelve
           foot
           high
           ;
           and
           from
           the
           bottom
           of
           the
           Rampart
           ,
           there
           goeth
           a
           Vaul●
           to
           this
           Horn-w●rk
           ,
           that
           is
           for
           conveying
           of
           men
           for
           its
           defence
           ;
           before
           this
           Horn-work
           there
           is
           a
           
             half
             Moon
          
           ,
           with
           this
           that
           is
           peculiar
           to
           those
           new
           For●ifications
           ,
           that
           there
           is
           a
           Dit●●
           that
           cuts
           the
           
             hal●
             Moon
          
           in
           an
           Angle
           ,
           and
           maketh
           one
           
             half
             Moon
          
           within
           another
           ;
           beyond
           that
           there
           is
           a
           Counterscarp
           about
           twel●e
           foot
           high
           abo●e
           the
           Water
           ,
           with
           a
           covered
           Way
           ,
           and
           a
           Gla●y
           designed
           ,
           tho
           not
           executed
           ;
           the●e
           is
           also
           a
           great
           H●rn-work
           besides
           all
           this
           ,
           which
           runs
           out
           a
           huge
           way
           with
           its
           Out-works
           towards
           B●sil
           ;
           there
           is
           also
           
           a
           Bridge
           laid
           over
           the
           Rhine
           ,
           and
           there
           being
           an
           Islan●
           in
           the
           River
           ,
           where
           the
           Bridge
           is
           laid
           ,
           there
           is
           a
           Horn-work
           that
           filleth
           and
           fortifieth
           it
           .
           The
           Buildings
           in
           th●s
           For●
           are
           beautiful
           ,
           and
           the
           Square
           can
           hold
           above
           four
           thousand
           Men
           ;
           the
           Works
           are
           not
           yet
           quite
           finished
           ,
           but
           when
           all
           is
           compleated
           ,
           this
           will
           be
           one
           of
           the
           strongest
           place●
           in
           Europe
           :
           There
           is
           a
           Cavelier
           on
           one
           or
           two
           of
           the
           Bastions
           ,
           and
           there
           are
           
             hal●
             Moons
          
           before
           the
           Bastions
           ,
           so
           that
           the
           Switzers
           see
           their
           danger
           now
           ,
           when
           it
           is
           not
           easy
           to
           redress
           it
           .
           This
           place
           is
           scituated
           in
           a
           great
           Plain
           ,
           so
           that
           it
           is
           commanded
           by
           no
           rising
           ground
           on
           any
           side
           o●
           it
           .
           I
           made
           a
           little
           Tour
           into
           Alsace
           ,
           as
           far
           as
           Mountbelliard
           ;
           the
           Soil
           is
           extream
           rich
           ,
           but
           it
           hath
           been
           so
           long
           a
           
             Frontier
             Country
          
           ;
           and
           is
           ,
           by
           consequence
           ,
           so
           ill
           peopled
           ,
           that
           it
           is
           in
           many
           places
           over-grown
           with
           Wood●
           ▪
           In
           one
           respec●
           it
           is
           fit
           to
           be
           the
           seat
           of
           War
           ,
           for
           it
           is
           full
           of
           Iron-works
           ,
           which
           bring
           a
           great
           deal
           of
           Money
           into
           the
           Country
           .
           I
           saw
           nothing
           peculiar
           in
           the
           Iron-Works
           there
           (
           except
           that
           the
           sides
           of
           the
           great
           Bellows
           were
           not
           of
           Leather
           ,
           but
           of
           Wood
           ;
           which
           saves
           much
           mony
           )
           so
           I
           will
           not
           stand
           to
           describe
           them
           .
           The
           River
           of
           the
           Rhin●
           ,
           all
           from
           Basil
           to
           Spire
           ,
           is
           so
           low
           ,
           and
           is
           on
           both
           sides
           so
           covered
           with
           Woods
           ,
           that
           one
           that
           cometh
           down
           in
           a
           Boa●
           hath
           no
           sight
           of
           the
           Country
           :
           The
           River
           runneth
           sometimes
           with
           such
           a
           force
           ,
           that
           nothing
           but
           such
           woods
           could
           preserve
           its
           Banks
           ,
           and
           even
           these
           are
           not
           able
           to
           save
           them
           quite
           ;
           for
           the
           Trees
           are
           often
           washed
           away
           by
           the
           very
           Roots
           ,
           so
           that
           in
           many
           places
           those
           Trees
           ly
           along
           in
           the
           Channel
           of
           the
           River
           :
           It
           hath
           been
           also
           thought
           a
           sort
           of
           a
           Fortification
           ,
           to
           both
           sides
           of
           the
           River
           ,
           to
           have
           it
           thus
           faced
           with
           Woods
           ,
           which
           maketh
           the
           passing
           of
           M●n
           dangerous
           ,
           when
           they
           must
           march
           for
           some
           time
           after
           their
           passage
           through
           a
           
             d●
             filépunc
          
           ;
           The
           fi●st
           night
           from
           Basil
           we
           came
           to
           Brisac
           ,
           which
           is
           a
           poor
           and
           mi●erable
           Town
           ,
           but
           it
           is
           a
           noble
           Fortificati●n
           ,
           and
           hath
           on
           the
           West-side
           of
           the
           River
           ,
           over
           which
           a
           Bridge
           is
           laid
           ,
           a
           regular
           Fort
           of
           four
           or
           five
           B●stions
           .
           The
           Town
           of
           Brisac
           riseth
           all
           on
           a
           Hill
           ,
           which
           is
           a
           considerable
           height
           ;
           there
           were
           near
           it
           
           ●wo
           Hills
           ,
           the
           one
           is
           taken
           within
           the
           Fortification
           ,
           and
           the
           other
           is
           so
           well
           levelled
           with
           the
           ground
           ,
           that
           one
           cannot
           so
           much
           as
           find
           out
           where
           it
           was
           ;
           All
           the
           ground
           about
           for
           many
           Miles
           is
           plain
           ,
           so
           that
           from
           the
           Hill
           ,
           as
           ●rom
           a
           Cavalier
           one
           can
           see
           exactly
           well
           ,
           especially
           with
           the
           help
           of
           a
           Prospect
           ,
           all
           the
           motions
           of
           an
           Enemy
           in
           case
           of
           a
           Siege
           :
           The
           Fortification
           is
           of
           a
           huge
           compass
           ,
           above
           a
           
             French
             League
          
           ,
           indeed
           almost
           a
           
             German
             Lea●ue
          
           ;
           the
           Bastions
           are
           quite
           filled
           with
           Earth
           ,
           they
           are
           faced
           with
           Brick
           ,
           and
           have
           a
           huge
           broad
           Dit●h
           full
           of
           Water
           around
           them
           ;
           the
           Counterscarp
           ,
           the
           covered
           Way
           ,
           which
           hath
           a
           Palisade
           ,
           with●n
           the
           Parapet
           ,
           and
           the
           Glacy
           ,
           are
           all
           well
           executed
           ;
           there
           is
           a
           half
           Moon
           before
           every
           Cortine
           :
           the
           Bastions
           have
           no
           Orillons
           except
           one
           or
           two
           ,
           and
           the
           Cortines
           are
           so
           disposed
           ,
           that
           a
           good
           part
           of
           them
           defende●h
           the
           B●stion
           .
           The
           Garrison
           of
           this
           Place
           in
           time
           of
           War
           must
           needs
           be
           eight
           or
           ten
           thousand
           Men
           ;
           there
           hath
           not
           been
           much
           done
           of
           late
           to
           this
           place
           ,
           only
           the
           Dit●h
           is
           so
           adjusted
           ,
           that
           it
           is
           all
           defended
           by
           the
           Flanks
           of
           the
           Bastions
           .
           But
           the
           noblest
           place
           on
           the
           Rhine
           ▪
           is
           Strasburg
           ;
           it
           is
           a
           Town
           of
           a
           huge
           extent
           ,
           and
           hath
           a
           double
           Wall
           and
           Ditch
           all
           round
           it
           :
           the
           inner
           Wall
           is
           old
           ,
           and
           of
           no
           strength
           ,
           nor
           is
           the
           outward
           Wall
           very
           good
           ;
           it
           hath
           a
           Faussebraye
           ,
           and
           is
           faced
           with
           Brick
           twelve
           or
           fifteen
           foot
           above
           the
           Ditch
           :
           the
           Counterscarp
           is
           in
           an
           ill
           condition
           ,
           so
           that
           the
           Town
           was
           not
           in
           case
           to
           make
           any
           long
           resistance
           ;
           but
           it
           is
           now
           strongly
           fortified
           .
           There
           is
           a
           Ci●tadel
           built
           on
           that
           side
           that
           goeth
           towards
           the
           Rhine
           ,
           that
           is
           much
           such
           a
           Fort
           as
           that
           of
           Hunningen
           ,
           and
           on
           the
           side
           of
           the
           Cittadel
           towards
           the
           Bridge
           ,
           there
           is
           a
           great
           Horn-work
           ,
           that
           runs
           out
           a
           great
           way
           with
           Out-wo●ks
           belonging
           to
           it
           ;
           there
           are
           also
           small
           Forts
           at
           the
           two
           chief
           Gates
           that
           lead
           to
           Alsace
           ;
           by
           which
           the
           City
           is
           so
           bridled
           ,
           that
           these
           can
           cut
           off
           all
           its
           communication
           with
           the
           Country
           about
           in
           case
           of
           a
           Revolt
           :
           the
           Bridge
           is
           also
           well
           fortifyed
           ;
           there
           are
           also
           Forts
           in
           some
           Islands
           in
           the
           Rhine
           ,
           and
           some
           Redoubts
           :
           so
           that
           all
           round
           this
           place
           ,
           there
           is
           one
           of
           the
           greatest
           Fortifications
           that
           is
           in
           Europe
           .
        
         
         
           Hitherto
           the
           Capitulation
           ,
           with
           relation
           to
           Religion
           ,
           hath
           been
           well
           kept
           ,
           and
           there
           is
           so
           small
           a
           number
           of
           new
           Converts
           ,
           and
           these
           are
           for
           the
           greatest
           part
           so
           inconsiderable
           ,
           they
           not
           being
           in
           all
           above
           two
           hundred
           ,
           as
           I
           was
           told
           ,
           that
           if
           they
           do
           not
           imploy
           the
           new-fashioned
           Missionaries
           
             à
             la
             Dragonné
          
           ,
           the
           
             old
             ones
          
           are
           not
           like
           to
           have
           so
           great
           a
           harvest
           there
           as
           they
           promised
           themselves
           ,
           tho
           they
           are
           Iesuites
           .
           The
           Lu●herans
           for
           the
           greatest
           part
           retain
           their
           Animosities
           almost
           to
           an
           equal
           degree
           both
           against
           Papists
           and
           Calvinists
           .
           I
           was
           in
           their
           Church
           ,
           where
           ,
           if
           the
           Musick
           of
           their
           P●alms
           pleased
           me
           much
           ,
           the
           Irreverence
           in
           singing
           ,
           it
           being
           free
           to
           keep
           on
           ,
           or
           put
           off
           the
           Hat
           ,
           did
           appear
           very
           strange
           to
           me
           :
           The
           Churches
           are
           full
           of
           Pictures
           ,
           in
           which
           the
           ●hief
           passages
           of
           our
           Sa●iour●
           Life
           are
           represented
           ;
           but
           there
           is
           no
           sort
           of
           religious
           respect
           pay'd
           them
           ,
           they
           bow
           when
           they
           name
           the
           
             Holy
             Ghost
          
           ,
           as
           well
           as
           at
           the
           Name
           of
           Iesus
           :
           but
           they
           have
           not
           the
           Ceremonies
           that
           the
           Lutherans
           of
           Saxony
           use
           ,
           which
           
             Mr.
             Bebel
          
           ,
           their
           Professor
           of
           Divinity
           ,
           said
           was
           a
           great
           happiness
           ;
           for
           a
           similitude
           in
           outward
           Rites
           might
           dispose
           the
           ignorant
           people
           to
           change
           too
           easily
           .
           I
           found
           several
           good
           people
           both
           of
           the
           
             Lutheran
             Ministers
          
           and
           others
           ,
           acknowledge
           ,
           that
           there
           was
           such
           a
           Corruption
           of
           Morals
           spread
           over
           the
           whole
           City
           ,
           that
           as
           they
           had
           justly
           drawn
           down
           on
           their
           heads
           the
           Plague
           of
           the
           loss
           of
           their
           Liberty
           ,
           so
           this
           having
           toucht
           them
           so
           little
           ,
           they
           had
           reason
           to
           look
           for
           severer
           strokes
           :
           One
           seeth
           ,
           in
           the
           ruin
           of
           this
           City
           ,
           what
           a
           miscievous
           thing
           the
           popular
           pride
           of
           a
           
             free
             City
          
           is
           :
           they
           fan●ied
           they
           were
           able
           to
           defend
           themselves
           ,
           and
           so
           they
           refused
           to
           l●t
           an
           
             Imperial
             Garrison
          
           come
           within
           their
           Town
           :
           for
           if
           they
           ha●
           received
           only
           five
           hundred
           m●n
           ,
           as
           that
           small
           number
           would
           not
           have
           been
           able
           to
           have
           opprest
           their
           Liberties
           ,
           so
           it
           would
           have
           so
           secured
           the
           Town
           ,
           that
           the
           French
           could
           not
           have
           besieged
           it
           ,
           without
           making
           War
           on
           the
           Empire
           :
           but
           the
           Town
           thought
           this
           was
           a
           Diminution
           of
           their
           Freedom
           ;
           and
           so
           chose
           rather
           to
           pay
           a
           Garrison
           of
           three
           thousand
           Souldiers
           ,
           which
           as
           it
           exausted
           their
           Revenue
           ,
           and
           
           brought
           them
           under
           great
           Taxes
           ,
           so
           it
           proved
           too
           weak
           for
           their
           defence
           when
           the
           
             Fren●h
             Army
          
           came
           before
           them
           .
           The
           Town
           begins
           to
           sink
           in
           its
           Trade
           ,
           notwithstanding
           the
           great
           circulation
           of
           Mon●y
           that
           the
           expence
           of
           the
           Fortifications
           hath
           brought
           to
           it
           :
           but
           when
           that
           is
           at
           an
           en●
           ,
           it
           will
           sink
           more
           sensibly
           ;
           for
           it
           is
           impossible
           fo●
           a
           
             Place
             of
             Trade
          
           ,
           that
           is
           to
           have
           alwayes
           eight
           or
           ten
           thousand
           Souldiers
           in
           it
           ,
           to
           continue
           long
           in
           a
           Flourishing
           State.
           There
           was
           a
           great
           Animosisy
           between
           two
           of
           the
           chief
           F●milys
           of
           the
           Town
           ,
           Dietrick
           and
           Obr●cht
           ;
           the
           former
           was
           the
           Burgomaster
           ,
           and
           was
           once
           almost
           run
           down
           by
           a
           Faction
           that
           the
           other
           had
           raised
           against
           him
           :
           but
           he
           turned
           the
           tide
           ,
           and
           got
           such
           an
           advantage
           against
           Obrecht
           ,
           who
           had
           writ
           some
           what
           against
           the
           Conduct
           of
           their
           Affairs
           ,
           that
           he
           was
           Condemned
           and
           Beheaded
           for
           writing
           libels
           against
           the
           Government
           .
           His
           Son
           is
           a
           learned
           man
           ,
           and
           was
           Professor
           of
           the
           
             Civil
             Law
          
           :
           and
           he
           to
           have
           his
           turn
           of
           revenge
           against
           Dietrick
           ,
           went
           to
           Paris
           last
           Summer
           ,
           and
           that
           he
           might
           make
           hi●
           Court
           the
           better
           ,
           changed
           his
           
             Religion
             .
             Dietrick
          
           had
           been
           alwayes
           looked
           on
           as
           one
           of
           the
           chief
           of
           the
           
             Fren●h
             Faction
          
           ,
           tho
           he
           had
           been
           at
           first
           an
           Imperialist
           ,
           so
           it
           was
           thought
           ,
           that
           he
           should
           have
           been
           well
           rewarded
           ;
           yet
           it
           was
           expected
           ,
           that
           to
           make
           himself
           capable
           of
           that
           ,
           he
           should
           have
           changed
           his
           Religion
           ;
           but
           he
           was
           an
           ancient
           man
           ,
           and
           would
           not
           purchase
           his
           Court
           at
           that
           rate
           :
           so
           without
           any
           reason
           given
           ,
           and
           against
           the
           express
           words
           of
           the
           Capitulation
           ,
           he
           was
           confined
           to
           one
           of
           the
           midland
           Provinces
           of
           Fran●e
           ,
           as
           I
           remember
           ,
           it
           was
           Limosin
           ,
           and
           thus
           he
           ,
           that
           hath
           been
           thought
           the
           chief
           cause
           of
           this
           ●own's
           falling
           under
           the
           power
           of
           the
           French
           ,
           is
           the
           first
           man
           that
           hath
           felt
           the
           effects
           of
           it
           .
           The
           Library
           here
           is
           considerable
           ;
           The
           Case
           is
           a
           great
           Room
           ,
           very
           well
           con●rived
           ;
           for
           it
           is
           divided
           into
           Closets
           all
           over
           the
           body
           of
           the
           Room
           ,
           which
           runs
           about
           these
           as
           a
           Gallery
           ,
           and
           in
           these
           Closets
           all
           round
           there
           are
           the
           Books
           of
           the
           several
           Professions
           lodged
           apart
           :
           There
           is
           one
           for
           Manuscripts
           ,
           in
           which
           there
           are
           some
           of
           considerable
           Antiquity
           .
           I
           need
           say
           nothing
           
           to
           you
           of
           the
           vast
           height
           ,
           and
           the
           
             Gothick
             Architecture
          
           of
           the
           Steeple
           and
           of
           the
           great
           Church
           ,
           nor
           of
           the
           curious
           Clock
           ,
           where
           there
           is
           so
           vast
           a
           variety
           of
           motions
           ;
           for
           these
           are
           well
           known
           .
           The
           
             Bas
             Reliefs
          
           upon
           the
           Tops
           of
           the
           great
           Pillars
           of
           the
           Church
           are
           not
           so
           visible
           ,
           but
           they
           are
           surprizing
           ;
           for
           this
           being
           a
           Fabri●k
           of
           three
           or
           four
           hundred
           years
           old
           ,
           it
           is
           very
           strange
           to
           see
           such
           Representations
           as
           are
           there
           .
           There
           is
           a
           Procession
           represented
           ,
           in
           whi●h
           a
           Hog
           carrieth
           the
           Pot
           with
           the
           
             Holy
             Water
          
           ,
           and
           Asses
           and
           Hogs
           in
           
             Pri●stly
             Vestme●ts
          
           follow
           to
           make
           up
           the
           Processi●n
           ;
           there
           is
           also
           an
           Ass
           standing
           before
           an
           Altar
           ,
           as
           if
           he
           were
           going
           to
           Consecrate
           ,
           and
           one
           carrieth
           a
           Cafe
           with
           Reliques
           ,
           within
           which
           one
           seeth
           a
           Fox
           ;
           and
           the
           Trains
           of
           all
           that
           go
           in
           this
           Procession
           ,
           are
           carried
           up
           by
           Monkies
           .
           This
           seems
           to
           have
           been
           made
           in
           hatred
           of
           the
           Monks
           ,
           whom
           the
           
             Secular
             Clergy
          
           abhorred
           at
           that
           time
           ,
           because
           they
           had
           drawn
           the
           Wealth
           ,
           and
           the
           following
           of
           the
           World
           after
           them
           ,
           and
           they
           had
           exposed
           the
           
             Secular
             Clergy
          
           ,
           so
           much
           for
           their
           ignorance
           ,
           that
           it
           is
           probable
           after
           some
           Ages
           ,
           the
           Monks
           falling
           under
           the
           same
           contempt
           ,
           the
           
             Secular
             Clergy
          
           took
           their
           turn
           in
           exposing
           them
           in
           so
           lasting
           a
           Representation
           to
           the
           Scorn
           of
           the
           World.
           There
           is
           also
           in
           the
           Pulpit
           a
           Nun
           cut
           in
           Wood
           ,
           lying
           along
           ,
           and
           a
           Fryer
           lying
           near
           her
           with
           his
           Breviary
           open
           before
           him
           ,
           and
           his
           hand
           under
           the
           Nuns
           habit
           ,
           and
           the
           Nuns
           feet
           are
           shod
           with
           iron
           shoes
           .
           I
           confess
           ,
           I
           did
           not
           look
           for
           these
           things
           ;
           for
           I
           had
           not
           heard
           of
           them
           ;
           but
           my
           Noble
           Friend
           Mr.
           Ablancourt
           viewed
           them
           with
           great
           exactness
           ,
           while
           he
           was
           the
           
             French
             Kings
          
           Resident
           at
           Strasburg
           ,
           in
           the
           company
           of
           one
           of
           the
           Magistrates
           that
           waited
           on
           him
           ;
           and
           it
           is
           upon
           his
           credit
           ,
           to
           which
           all
           that
           know
           his
           eminent
           sincerity
           ,
           know
           how
           much
           is
           due
           ,
           that
           I
           give
           you
           this
           particular
           .
        
         
           From
           Strasburg
           we
           went
           down
           the
           Rhine
           to
           Philipsburg
           ,
           which
           lyeth
           at
           a
           quarter
           of
           a
           Miles
           distance
           from
           the
           River
           ;
           it
           is
           but
           a
           small
           place
           ,
           the
           Bastions
           are
           but
           little
           :
           there
           is
           a
           Ravellin
           before
           almost
           all
           the
           Cortines
           ,
           and
           there
           ly
           such
           Marishes
           all
           round
           it
           ,
           that
           in
           these
           lyeth
           
           the
           chief
           strength
           of
           the
           place
           .
           The
           Fren●h
           had
           begun
           a
           great
           Crow●-work
           on
           the
           side
           that
           lyeth
           to
           the
           Rhine
           ,
           and
           had
           cast
           out
           a
           Hor●-work
           beyond
           that
           ;
           but
           by
           all
           that
           appears
           ,
           it
           seems
           they
           intended
           to
           continue
           that
           Crown-work
           quite
           round
           the
           Town
           ,
           and
           to
           make
           a
           second
           Wall
           and
           Ditch
           all
           round
           it
           ;
           which
           would
           have
           inlarged
           the
           place
           vastly
           ,
           and
           made
           a
           compass
           capable
           enough
           to
           lodge
           above
           ten
           thousand
           Men
           :
           and
           this
           would
           have
           been
           so
           terrible
           a
           Neighbour
           to
           the
           Palatinate
           ,
           and
           all
           Franconia
           ,
           that
           it
           was
           a
           Master-piece
           in
           
             Charles
             Lewis
          
           ,
           the
           late
           
             Elector
             Palatine
          
           ,
           to
           ingage
           the
           Empire
           into
           this
           Siege
           .
           He
           saw
           well
           ,
           how
           much
           it
           concerned
           him
           to
           have
           it
           out
           of
           the
           hands
           of
           the
           Fre●ch
           ,
           so
           that
           he
           took
           great
           care
           to
           have
           the
           
             D●ke
             of
             Lorrain's
             Ca●p
          
           so
           well
           supplied
           with
           all
           things
           necessary
           ,
           during
           the
           Sie●e
           ,
           that
           the
           Army
           lay
           not
           under
           the
           least
           uneasiness
           all
           the
           while
           .
           From
           thence
           in
           ●hree
           Hours
           time
           we
           came
           to
           Spire
           ,
           which
           is
           so
           naked
           a
           Town
           ,
           that
           if
           it
           were
           attacked
           ,
           it
           could
           not
           make
           the
           least
           resistance
           .
           The
           Town
           is
           neither
           great
           nor
           rich
           ,
           and
           subsisted
           chiefly
           by
           the
           
             Imperial
             Chamber
          
           that
           fitteth
           here
           ,
           tho
           there
           is
           a
           constant
           dispute
           between
           the
           Town
           and
           the
           Ch●mber
           concerning
           Privile●g●s
           ;
           for
           the
           Government
           of
           the
           Town
           ,
           pretends
           ,
           that
           the
           Iudges
           of
           the
           Chamber
           ,
           as
           they
           are
           private
           men
           ,
           and
           out
           of
           the
           
             Court
             of
             Iudi●ature
          
           ,
           are
           subject
           to
           them
           ;
           and
           so
           about
           a
           year
           ago
           they
           put
           one
           of
           the
           Iudges
           in
           Prison
           :
           on
           the
           other
           hand
           ,
           the
           Iudges
           pretend
           ,
           that
           their
           persons
           are
           sacred
           .
           It
           was
           the
           consideration
           of
           the
           Chamber
           that
           procured
           to
           the
           Town
           the
           Neutrality
           that
           they
           injoyed
           all
           the
           last
           War.
           I
           thought
           to
           have
           seen
           the
           forms
           of
           this
           Court
           ,
           and
           the
           way
           of
           laying
           up
           ,
           and
           preserving
           their
           Records
           ,
           but
           the
           Court
           was
           not
           then
           sitting
           .
           The
           Building
           ,
           the
           Halls
           and
           Chambers
           of
           this
           famous
           Court
           are
           mean
           beyond
           imagination
           ,
           and
           look
           liker
           the
           Halls
           of
           some
           small
           Company
           ,
           than
           of
           so
           great
           a
           body
           ;
           and
           I
           could
           not
           see
           the
           places
           where
           they
           lay
           up
           their
           Archives
           ;
           The
           Government
           of
           the
           City
           is
           all
           Lutheran
           ;
           but
           not
           only
           the
           Cathedral
           is
           in
           the
           hands
           of
           the
           Bishops
           and
           Chapter
           ,
           but
           
           there
           are
           likewise
           several
           Convents
           of
           both
           Sexes
           ;
           and
           the
           I●suites
           have
           also
           a
           Colledge
           there
           .
           There
           is
           little
           remarkable
           in
           the
           Cathedral
           ,
           which
           is
           a
           huge
           building
           in
           the
           Gothick
           manner
           ,
           of
           the
           worst
           sort
           .
           The
           Tombs
           of
           many
           Emperors
           ,
           that
           ly
           buried
           there
           ,
           are
           remarkable
           for
           their
           meanness
           ;
           they
           being
           only
           great
           Flagstones
           layed
           on
           some
           small
           St●ne-ballisters
           of
           a
           foot
           and
           a
           half
           high
           :
           There
           are
           also
           the
           marks
           of
           a
           ridiculous
           Fable
           concerning
           
             St.
             Bernard
          
           ,
           which
           is
           too
           foolish
           to
           be
           related
           ,
           yet
           since
           they
           have
           taken
           such
           pains
           to
           preserve
           the
           remembrance
           of
           it
           ,
           I
           shall
           venture
           to
           write
           it
           .
           There
           are
           from
           the
           Gate
           all
           along
           the
           N●f
           of
           the
           Church
           up
           to
           the
           Steps
           that
           go
           up
           to
           the
           
             Quire
             ,
             four
          
           round
           Plates
           of
           Brass
           ,
           above
           a
           foot
           Diameter
           ,
           and
           at
           the
           distance
           of
           thirty
           foot
           one
           from
           another
           ,
           laid
           in
           the
           pavement
           ,
           on
           the
           first
           of
           these
           is
           ingraven
           ,
           
             O
             Clemens
          
           ;
           on
           the
           second
           ,
           
             O
             Pia
          
           ;
           on
           the
           third
           ,
           
             O
             Felix
          
           ,
           and
           on
           the
           fourth
           ,
           Maria
           ▪
           The
           last
           is
           about
           thirty
           foot
           distant
           from
           a
           Statue
           of
           the
           Virgins
           :
           so
           they
           say
           that
           
             St.
             Bernard
          
           came
           up
           the
           whole
           length
           of
           the
           Church
           at
           
             Four
             Steps
          
           ,
           and
           that
           those
           
             four
             Plates
          
           were
           laid
           where
           he
           stept
           :
           and
           that
           at
           every
           Step
           he
           pronounced
           the
           word
           that
           is
           ingraven
           on
           the
           Plate
           ;
           and
           when
           he
           came
           to
           the
           last
           ,
           the
           Image
           of
           the
           Virgin
           answered
           him
           ,
           
             Salve
             Bernarde
          
           ,
           upon
           which
           he
           answered
           ,
           
             Let
             a
             Woman
             keep
             silence
             in
             the
             Church
          
           ;
           and
           that
           the
           
             Virgins
             Statue
          
           has
           kept
           silence
           ever
           since
           ;
           This
           last
           part
           of
           the
           Story
           is
           certainly
           very
           credible
           .
           He
           was
           a
           
             Man
             of
             Learning
          
           that
           shewed
           me
           this
           ;
           and
           he
           repeated
           it
           so
           gravely
           to
           me
           ,
           that
           I
           saw
           he
           either
           believed
           it
           ,
           or
           at
           least
           that
           he
           had
           á
           mind
           to
           make
           me
           believe
           it
           :
           and
           I
           asked
           him
           as
           gravely
           ,
           if
           that
           was
           firmly
           believed
           there
           ;
           he
           told
           me
           ,
           that
           one
           had
           lately
           writ
           a
           Look
           to
           prove
           the
           truth
           of
           it
           ,
           as
           I
           remember
           ,
           it
           was
           a
           Ies●it
           :
           He
           a●knowledged
           ,
           it
           was
           not
           an
           
             Article
             of
             Faith
          
           ;
           so
           I
           was
           satisfied
           .
           There
           is
           in
           the
           Cloister
           an
           old
           Gothick
           Representation
           of
           our
           
             Saviours
             Agony
          
           in
           stone
           ,
           with
           a
           great
           many
           Figures
           of
           his
           Ap●stles
           ,
           and
           the
           Company
           that
           came
           to
           seize
           him
           ,
           that
           is
           not
           ill
           S●ulpture
           ,
           for
           the
           
           Age
           in
           which
           it
           was
           made
           ,
           it
           being
           some
           Ages
           old
           .
           The
           Calvinists
           have
           a
           Church
           in
           this
           Town
           ,
           but
           their
           numbers
           are
           not
           considerable
           .
           I
           was
           told
           there
           were
           some
           ancient
           Manuscripts
           in
           the
           Library
           ,
           that
           belongeth
           to
           the
           Cathedral
           :
           but
           one
           of
           the
           Prebendaries
           ,
           to
           whom
           I
           addressed
           my self
           ,
           being
           ,
           according
           to
           the
           German
           Custom
           ,
           a
           Man
           of
           greater
           Quality
           than
           Learning
           ,
           told
           me
           ,
           he
           heard
           they
           had
           some
           ancient
           Manusc●ipts
           ,
           but
           he
           knew
           nothing
           of
           it
           ;
           and
           the
           Dean
           was
           absent
           ,
           so
           I
           could
           not
           see
           them
           ;
           for
           he
           kept
           one
           of
           the
           Keys
           .
           The
           
             lower
             Palatinate
          
           is
           certainly
           one
           of
           the
           sweetest
           Countryes
           of
           all
           Germany
           :
           It
           is
           a
           great
           Plain
           till
           one
           cometh
           to
           the
           Hills
           of
           Heidelberg
           :
           the
           Town
           is
           ill
           scituated
           ,
           just
           in
           a
           bottom
           ,
           between
           two
           ranges
           of
           Hills
           ,
           yet
           the
           Air
           is
           much
           commended
           :
           I
           need
           say
           nothing
           of
           the
           Castle
           ,
           nor
           the
           prodigious
           Wine-Cellar
           ,
           in
           which
           ,
           tho
           there
           is
           but
           one
           celebrated
           Tun
           ,
           that
           is
           seventeen
           foot
           high
           ,
           and
           twenty
           six
           foot
           long
           ,
           and
           is
           built
           with
           a
           strength
           liker
           that
           of
           the
           ribs
           of
           a
           ship
           ,
           than
           the
           Staves
           of
           a
           Tun
           ;
           yet
           there
           are
           many
           other
           Tuns
           of
           such
           a
           prodigious
           bigness
           ,
           that
           they
           would
           seem
           very
           extraordinary
           ,
           if
           this
           vast
           one
           did
           not
           Eclipse
           them
           .
           The
           late
           
             Prince
             Charles
             Lewis
          
           shewed
           his
           capacity
           in
           the
           peopling
           and
           setling
           this
           State
           ,
           that
           had
           been
           so
           intirely
           ruined
           ,
           being
           for
           many
           Y●ars
           the
           Seat
           of
           War
           ;
           for
           in
           four
           years
           time
           he
           brought
           it
           to
           a
           Flourishing
           condition
           :
           He
           raised
           the
           Taxes
           as
           high
           as
           was
           possible
           without
           dispeopling
           his
           Country
           ,
           all
           mens
           Estates
           were
           valued
           ,
           and
           they
           were
           taxed
           at
           five
           
             per
             cent
          
           of
           the
           value
           of
           their
           Estates
           ;
           but
           their
           Estates
           were
           not
           valued
           to
           the
           rigour
           ,
           but
           with
           such
           abatements
           as
           have
           been
           ordinary
           in
           Engla●d
           in
           the
           times
           of
           Subsidies
           ;
           so
           that
           when
           his
           Son
           offered
           to
           bring
           the
           Taxes
           down
           to
           two
           
             per
             Cent
          
           of
           the
           real
           value
           ,
           the
           Subjects
           all
           desired
           him
           rather
           to
           continue
           them
           as
           they
           were
           .
           There
           is
           no
           Prince
           in
           Germany
           that
           is
           more
           ab●o●●te
           than
           the
           
             Elector
             Pal●tine
          
           ;
           for
           he
           laye●h
           on
           his
           S●bject●
           what
           Taxes
           he
           pleaseth
           ,
           without
           being
           limited
           to
           any
           forms
           of
           Go●ernment
           .
           And
           here
           I
           saw
           that
           which
           I
           had
           alwayes
           believed
           to
           be
           true
           ,
           
           that
           the
           
             Subjects
             of
             Germany
          
           are
           only
           bound
           to
           their
           particular
           Prince
           ;
           for
           they
           swear
           Allegeance
           singly
           to
           the
           Elector
           ,
           without
           any
           reserve
           for
           the
           Emp●rour
           ;
           and
           in
           their
           Prayers
           for
           him
           ,
           they
           name
           him
           their
           Soveraign
           .
           It
           is
           true
           ,
           the
           Prince
           is
           under
           some
           ties
           to
           the
           Emperour
           ;
           but
           the
           Subjects
           are
           under
           none
           .
           And
           by
           this
           
             D●
             Fabritius
          
           ,
           a
           learned
           and
           judicious
           Professor
           there
           ,
           explained
           those
           words
           of
           Pareus's
           Commentary
           on
           the
           Romans
           ,
           which
           had
           respect
           only
           to
           the
           Princes
           of
           the
           Empire
           :
           and
           were
           quite
           misunderstood
           by
           those
           who
           fancied
           that
           they
           favoured
           Rebellion
           ▪
           for
           there
           is
           no
           place
           in
           Europe
           where
           all
           rebellious
           Doctrine
           is
           more
           born
           down
           than
           there
           .
           I
           found
           a
           great
           spirit
           of
           Moderation
           ,
           with
           relation
           to
           those
           small
           Controversies
           ,
           that
           have
           occasioned
           such
           heat
           in
           the
           
             Protestant
             Churches
          
           ,
           reigning
           in
           the
           University
           there
           ,
           which
           is
           in
           a
           great
           measure
           owing
           to
           the
           Prudence
           ,
           the
           Learning
           ,
           and
           the
           happy
           Temper
           of
           Mind
           of
           
             D.
             Fabritius
          
           ,
           and
           
             D.
             Mick
          
           :
           who
           as
           they
           were
           long
           in
           England
           ,
           so
           they
           have
           that
           generous
           
             largness
             of
             Soul
          
           ,
           which
           is
           the
           Noble
           Ornament
           of
           many
           of
           the
           
             English
             Divines
             ;
             Prince
             Charls
             Lewis
          
           saw
           that
           Manheim
           was
           ma●ked
           out
           by
           Nature
           to
           be
           the
           most
           important
           place
           of
           all
           his
           Territory
           ,
           it
           being
           scituated
           in
           the
           point
           where
           the
           Neckar
           falleth
           into
           the
           Rhine
           ;
           so
           that
           those
           two
           Rivers
           defending
           it
           on
           two
           sides
           ;
           it
           was
           capable
           of
           a
           good
           Fortification
           :
           It
           is
           true
           ,
           the
           Air
           is
           not
           thought
           wholsome
           ,
           and
           the
           Water
           is
           not
           good
           ,
           yet
           he
           made
           a
           fine
           Town
           there
           ,
           and
           a
           Noble
           Cittadel
           ,
           with
           a
           regular
           Fortification
           about
           it
           ;
           and
           he
           designed
           a
           great
           Palace
           there
           ,
           but
           he
           did
           not
           live
           to
           build
           it
           .
           He
           saw
           of
           what
           advantage
           
             Liberty
             of
             Con●cience
          
           was
           to
           the
           peopling
           of
           his
           Country
           ;
           so
           as
           he
           suffered
           the
           Iews
           to
           come
           and
           settle
           there
           ,
           he
           resolved
           also
           not
           only
           to
           suffer
           the
           
             three
             Religions
          
           ,
           ●olerated
           by
           the
           Laws
           of
           the
           Empire
           ,
           to
           be
           professed
           there
           ,
           but
           he
           built
           a
           Church
           for
           them
           all
           three
           ,
           which
           he
           called
           
             the
             Church
             of
             the
             C●ncord
          
           ,
           in
           which
           both
           
             Calvinists
             Lutherans
          
           and
           Papists
           had
           ,
           in
           the
           order
           in
           which
           I
           have
           set
           them
           down
           ,
           the
           exercise
           of
           their
           Religion
           ;
           and
           he
           maintained
           the
           peace
           of
           his
           Principality
           so
           intirely
           ,
           that
           
           there
           was
           not
           the
           least
           Disorder
           occasioned
           by
           this
           Toleration
           :
           This
           indeed
           made
           him
           to
           be
           lookt
           on
           as
           a
           Prince
           that
           did
           not
           much
           consider
           Religion
           himself
           :
           He
           had
           a
           wonderful
           application
           to
           all
           affairs
           ,
           and
           was
           not
           only
           his
           own
           chief
           Minister
           ,
           but
           he
           alone
           did
           the
           work
           of
           many
           .
        
         
           But
           I
           were
           Injust
           if
           I
           should
           not
           say
           somewhat
           to
           you
           ,
           of
           the
           
             Princely
             Vertues
          
           and
           the
           
             Cele●rated
             Probity
          
           of
           the
           
             present
             Pr.
             Elector
          
           ,
           upon
           whom
           that
           Dignity
           is
           devolved
           by
           the
           extinction
           of
           so
           many
           Pr●nces
           ;
           that
           in
           this
           Age
           composed
           the
           most
           numerous
           F●mily
           of
           any
           of
           that
           rank
           in
           Europe
           .
           This
           Prince
           ,
           as
           he
           is
           in
           many
           respects
           an
           honour
           to
           the
           Relig●on
           that
           he
           professes
           ,
           so
           is
           in
           nothing
           more
           to
           be
           commended
           by
           those
           who
           dif●er
           from
           him
           ,
           than
           for
           his
           exact
           adhering
           to
           the
           Promises
           he
           made
           his
           Subjects
           with
           relation
           to
           their
           Religion
           ,
           in
           which
           he
           has
           not
           (
           even
           in
           the
           smallest
           matters
           )
           broke
           in
           upon
           their
           establisht
           Laws
           ;
           and
           tho
           an
           
             Order
             of
             Men
          
           ,
           that
           have
           turned
           the
           world
           up-side
           down
           ,
           have
           great
           credit
           with
           him
           ,
           yet
           it
           is
           hitherto
           visible
           ,
           that
           they
           cannot
           carry
           it
           so
           far
           as
           to
           make
           him
           do
           any
           thing
           contrary
           to
           the
           established
           Religion
           ;
           and
           to
           those
           
             ●acr●d
             Promises
          
           that
           he
           made
           his
           Subjects
           .
           For
           he
           makes
           it
           appear
           to
           all
           the
           world
           ,
           that
           he
           does
           not
           consider
           those
           ,
           
             as
             so
             many
             words
             spoken
             at
             first
             to
             lay
             his
             people
             asleep
             ,
             which
             he
             may
             now
             explain
             and
             observe
             as
             he
             thinks
             sit
          
           ;
           but
           as
           so
           many
           Ties
           upon
           his
           Conscience
           and
           Honour
           ,
           which
           he
           will
           Religiously
           observe
           .
           And
           as
           in
           the
           other
           parts
           of
           his
           Life
           ,
           he
           has
           set
           a
           Noble
           Pattern
           to
           all
           the
           
             Princes
             of
             Europe
          
           ,
           so
           his
           exactness
           to
           his
           Promises
           ,
           is
           that
           which
           cannot
           be
           too
           much
           commended
           :
           of
           which
           this
           extraordinary
           Instan●e
           has
           been
           communicated
           to
           me
           since
           I
           am
           come
           into
           this
           Country
           .
           The
           Elector
           had
           a
           Proc●ssion
           in
           his
           Court
           last
           
             Corpus
             Christ●
          
           day
           ,
           upon
           which
           one
           of
           the
           Ministers
           of
           Heidelberg
           prea●ht
           a
           very
           severe
           Sermon
           against
           Popery
           ,
           and
           in
           particular
           taxed
           that
           Procession
           perhaps
           with
           greater
           plainness
           than
           discretion
           :
           Th●s
           being
           brought
           to
           the
           Electors
           Ears
           ,
           he
           sent
           presently
           an
           Order
           to
           the
           
             Ecclesiastical
             Senate
          
           to
           suspend
           him
           .
           That
           Court
           is
           composed
           of
           some
           
           
             Secular
             men
          
           and
           some
           Churchmen
           ,
           and
           as
           the
           
             Princes
             Authority
          
           is
           delegated
           to
           them
           ,
           so
           they
           have
           a
           sort
           of
           an
           
             Episcopal
             jurisdiction
          
           over
           all
           the
           Clergy
           :
           This
           Ord●r
           was
           a
           surprise
           to
           them
           ,
           as
           being
           a
           direct
           b●each
           upon
           their
           Laws
           and
           the
           li●erty
           of
           their
           Reli●ion
           :
           so
           they
           sent
           a
           Depu●ation
           to
           Court
           ,
           to
           let
           the
           Elector
           know
           the
           reasons
           that
           hindred
           them
           from
           obeying
           his
           O●ders
           ,
           which
           were
           heard
           with
           so
           mu●h
           Justice
           and
           Gentleness
           ,
           that
           the
           Pri●ce
           ,
           instead
           of
           ex●ressing
           any
           Displeas●●e
           against
           them
           ,
           recalled
           the
           Order
           that
           he
           had
           sent
           them
           .
           The
           way
           from
           Heidelberg
           to
           Fra●kfort
           ▪
           is
           ,
           for
           the
           first
           twelve
           or
           fifteen
           Miles
           ,
           the
           beautifullest
           piece
           of
           ground
           that
           can
           be
           imagined
           ;
           for
           we
           went
           under
           a
           ridge
           of
           little
           Hills
           that
           are
           all
           covered
           with
           Vines
           ,
           and
           from
           them
           ,
           as
           far
           as
           the
           eye
           can
           go
           ,
           there
           is
           a
           beautiful
           Plain
           of
           Corn-fields
           and
           Meadows
           ,
           all
           sweetly
           divided
           and
           inclosed
           with
           rows
           of
           Trees
           ,
           so
           that
           I
           fancied
           I
           was
           in
           Lombardy
           again
           ,
           but
           with
           this
           advantage
           ,
           that
           here
           all
           was
           not
           of
           apiece
           ,
           as
           it
           is
           in
           Lombardy
           ;
           but
           the
           Hills
           ,
           as
           they
           made
           a
           pleasant
           inequality
           in
           the
           prospect
           ,
           so
           they
           made
           the
           Air
           purer
           ,
           and
           produced
           a
           pleasant
           Wine
           :
           The
           way
           near
           Darmstat
           ,
           and
           all
           forwards
           to
           Frankfort
           ,
           becometh
           more
           wild
           and
           more
           sandy
           :
           There
           is
           a
           good
           Suburb
           on
           the
           South-side
           of
           the
           Main
           over
           against
           Frankfort
           ,
           which
           hath
           a
           very
           considerable
           Fortification
           ;
           there
           is
           a
           double
           Wall
           ,
           and
           a
           double
           Dit●h
           ,
           that
           goeth
           round
           it
           ;
           and
           the
           outward
           Wall
           ,
           as
           it
           is
           regularly
           fortified
           ,
           so
           it
           is
           faced
           with
           Brick
           to
           a
           consi●erable
           height
           .
           The
           Town
           of
           Frankfort
           is
           of
           a
           great
           extent
           ,
           and
           seemed
           to
           be
           but
           about
           a
           third
           part
           less
           than
           S●rasburg
           :
           The
           
             three
             Reli●ions
          
           are
           also
           tolerated
           there
           ;
           and
           tho
           the
           number
           of
           the
           Papists
           is
           very
           inconsiderable
           ,
           yet
           they
           have
           the
           great
           Church
           ,
           which
           is
           a
           huge
           rude
           building
           ;
           they
           have
           also
           several
           other
           Churches
           ,
           and
           some
           Co●ve●ts
           there
           .
           There
           are
           several
           open
           Squares
           for
           Market
           places
           ,
           and
           the
           Houses
           about
           them
           look
           very
           well
           without
           .
           Among
           their
           Archives
           they
           preserve
           the
           Original
           of
           the
           
             B●lla
             Aurea
          
           ;
           that
           which
           is
           shewed
           to
           Strangers
           ,
           is
           only
           a
           great
           Parchment
           writ
           in
           
             High
             Dutch
          
           ;
           but
           the
           Original
           is
           preserved
           with
           more
           Care
           ,
           
           and
           is
           in
           Latin
           :
           yet
           since
           I
           made
           a
           short
           stay
           there
           ,
           I
           was
           not
           at
           the
           Pains
           of
           desiring
           to
           see
           it
           ;
           for
           that
           is
           not
           obtained
           without
           difficulty
           .
           The
           Lutherans
           have
           here
           built
           a
           new
           Chur●h
           ,
           called
           
             St.
             Katherines
          
           ,
           in
           which
           there
           is
           as
           much
           painti●g
           as
           e●er
           I
           saw
           in
           any
           
             Popish
             Church
          
           ;
           and
           over
           the
           
             high
             Altar
          
           there
           is
           an
           huge
           carved
           Cru●ifix
           ,
           as
           there
           are
           
             painted
             ones
          
           in
           other
           places
           of
           their
           Church
           :
           The
           Pulpit
           is
           extream
           fine
           ,
           of
           Marble
           of
           different
           co●ours
           ,
           very
           well
           polished
           and
           joyned
           .
           I
           was
           here
           at
           Sermon
           ,
           where
           I
           understood
           nothing
           ;
           but
           I
           liked
           one
           th●ng
           that
           I
           saw
           both
           at
           Strasburg
           and
           here
           ,
           that
           at
           the
           end
           of
           Prayers
           ,
           there
           was
           a
           considerable
           interval
           of
           silence
           left
           ,
           before
           the
           conclusion
           ,
           for
           all
           peopl●s
           private
           Devotions
           .
           In
           the
           House
           of
           their
           
             publick
             Discipline
          
           ,
           they
           retain
           still
           the
           old
           
             Roman
             Pistrina
          
           or
           H●nd-mill
           ;
           at
           which
           
             lewd
             Women
          
           are
           condemned
           to
           grind
           ,
           that
           is
           ,
           to
           drive
           about
           the
           Wheel
           that
           maketh
           the
           Milstones
           go
           .
           There
           is
           a
           great
           number
           of
           Iews
           there
           ,
           tho
           their
           two
           Synagogues
           are
           very
           little
           ,
           and
           by
           consequence
           ,
           the
           Numbers
           being
           great
           ,
           they
           are
           very
           nasty
           .
           I
           was
           told
           ,
           they
           were
           in
           all
           above
           
             twelve
             hundred
          
           .
           The
           Women
           had
           the
           most
           of
           a
           tawdry
           Imbroidery
           of
           Gold
           and
           Silver
           about
           them
           that
           ever
           I
           saw
           ;
           for
           they
           had
           all
           Mantles
           of
           Crape
           ,
           and
           both
           about
           the
           top
           and
           the
           bottom
           ,
           there
           was
           a
           border
           above
           a
           hand
           breadth
           of
           Imbroid●ry
           .
           The
           Fortification
           o●
           Frankfort
           is
           considerable
           ;
           ●heir
           Ditch
           is
           very
           b●oad
           ,
           and
           very
           full
           of
           Water
           ;
           all
           the
           Ba●●ions
           have
           a
           Countermine
           ,
           that
           runneth
           along
           by
           the
           brim
           of
           the
           Ditch
           ;
           but
           the
           Counterscarp
           is
           not
           faced
           with
           Brick
           as
           the
           Walls
           are
           ,
           and
           so
           in
           many
           places
           it
           is
           i●
           an
           ill
           condition
           ;
           the
           covered
           Way
           and
           Glacy
           are
           also
           in
           an
           ill
           case
           :
           The
           Town
           is
           rich
           ,
           and
           driveth
           a
           great
           Trade
           ,
           and
           is
           very
           pleasantly
           scituated
           .
           No●
           far
           from
           hence
           is
           Hockam
           ,
           that
           yieldeth
           the
           best
           Wine
           of
           those
           parts
           .
           Since
           I
           took
           Frankfort
           in
           my
           way
           from
           Heidelb●rg
           to
           Mentz
           ,
           I
           could
           not
           pass
           by
           Worms
           ,
           for
           which
           I
           was
           sorry
           .
           I
           had
           a
           great
           mind
           to
           see
           that
           place
           where
           Luther
           made
           his
           first
           appearance
           before
           the
           Empe●our
           ,
           and
           the
           Diet
           ,
           and
           in
           that
           solemn
           Audience
           express●d
           an
           undaunted
           Zeal
           
           for
           that
           
             Glorious
             Cause
          
           in
           which
           God
           made
           him
           such
           a
           blessed
           Instrument
           .
           I
           had
           another
           piece
           of
           Curiosity
           on
           me
           ,
           which
           will
           perhaps
           appear
           to
           you
           somewhat
           ridiculous
           .
           I
           had
           a
           mind
           to
           see
           a
           Pi●ture
           ,
           that
           as
           I
           was
           told
           ,
           is
           over
           one
           of
           the
           
             Popish
             Altar
          
           ,
           there
           ,
           which
           one
           would
           think
           was
           Invented
           by
           the
           Enemies
           of
           Transubstantiation
           ,
           to
           make
           it
           appear
           ridiculous
           There
           is
           a
           Windmill
           ,
           and
           the
           Vir●in
           throws
           
             Christ
             into
             the
             Hopp●r
          
           ,
           and
           he
           come●
           out
           at
           the
           Eye
           of
           the
           M●●n
           all
           in
           Waters
           ,
           which
           some
           Priests
           take
           up
           to
           give
           to
           the
           People
           .
           This
           is
           so
           course
           an
           Emblem
           ,
           that
           one
           would
           think
           it
           too
           gross
           even
           for
           Lapland●rs
           ;
           but
           a
           man
           that
           can
           swallow
           Transubstantiation
           it self
           ,
           will
           digest
           this
           likewise
           Mentz
           is
           very
           nobly
           scituated
           ,
           on
           a
           rising
           ground
           ▪
           a
           little
           below
           the
           conjunction
           of
           the
           two
           Rivers
           ,
           the
           Rhine
           and
           the
           Ma●n
           ;
           it
           is
           of
           too
           great
           a
           compass
           ,
           and
           too
           ill
           peopled
           ●o
           be
           capable
           of
           a
           great
           defence
           :
           there
           is
           a
           Cittad●l
           upon
           the
           highest
           part
           of
           the
           Hill
           that
           commandeth
           the
           Town
           ;
           it
           is
           compassed
           about
           with
           a
           dry
           Ditch
           ,
           that
           is
           considerably
           deep
           .
           The
           Walls
           of
           the
           Town
           are
           faced
           with
           Bri●k
           ,
           and
           regularly
           fortisied
           ,
           but
           the
           Counterscarp
           is
           not
           faced
           with
           Brick
           ,
           so
           all
           is
           in
           a
           sad
           condition
           ;
           and
           the
           Fortification
           is
           weakest
           on
           that
           side
           where
           the
           
             Elect●rs
             Palace
          
           is
           .
           There
           is
           one
           side
           of
           a
           new
           Palace
           very
           nobly
           built
           in
           a
           regular
           Arch●tect●re
           ,
           only
           the
           Germans
           do
           still
           retain
           somewhat
           of
           the
           Gothick
           manner
           ;
           It
           is
           of
           a
           great
           length
           ,
           and
           the
           design
           is
           to
           build
           quite
           round
           the
           Co●rt
           ,
           and
           then
           it
           will
           be
           a
           very
           magnificent
           Pala●e
           ,
           only
           the
           Stone
           is
           red
           :
           for
           all
           the
           Quarries
           that
           are
           upon
           the
           Rhi●e
           ,
           from
           Ba●il
           down
           to
           Co●lentz
           ,
           are
           of
           
             r●d
             stone
          
           ,
           which
           doth
           not
           look
           beautiful
           .
           The
           Elec●or
           of
           Mentz
           is
           an
           absolute
           Prince
           :
           his
           Subjects
           present
           Lists
           of
           their
           Magistrates
           to
           him
           ,
           but
           he
           is
           not
           tied
           to
           them
           ,
           and
           may
           name
           whom
           he
           will.
           The
           Ancient
           Demeasn
           of
           the
           Electorat
           is
           about
           ●orty
           thousand
           Crowns
           :
           but
           the
           Taxes
           rise
           to
           about
           three
           hundred
           thousand
           Crowns
           ;
           so
           that
           the
           Subjects
           here
           are
           as
           heavily
           taxed
           as
           in
           the
           Palatinate
           :
           The●e
           is
           twelve
           thousand
           Crowns
           a
           ye●r
           given
           the
           Elector
           for
           his
           privy
           Purse
           ,
           and
           the
           State
           bears
           the
           rest
           o●
           
           ●is
           whole
           expence
           :
           It
           can
           Arm
           ten
           thousand
           Men
           ,
           and
           ●here
           is
           a
           Garrison
           of
           two
           thousand
           Men
           in
           Mentz
           :
           this
           Elect●r
           hath
           three
           Coun●ils
           ,
           one
           he
           is
           Ch●●c●llour
           of
           the
           Empire
           ,
           consisting
           of
           three
           persons
           :
           The
           other
           two
           are
           for
           the
           Policy
           and
           Iusti●e
           of
           his
           Principality
           .
           He
           ,
           and
           ●is
           Chapter
           have
           Months
           by
           turns
           for
           the
           Nomination
           of
           the
           Prebends
           .
           In
           the
           Month
           of
           Ianuary
           he
           names
           if
           any
           dyes
           ,
           and
           they
           chuse
           in
           the
           Room
           of
           such
           as
           dye
           in
           Fe●ruary
           ,
           and
           so
           all
           the
           year
           round
           .
           The
           Pre●endaries
           or
           Dome-Heers
           have
           about
           three
           thousand
           Crowns
           a
           year
           a●iece
           .
           When
           the
           E●ector
           dieth
           ,
           the
           Emperor
           sende●h
           one
           ●o
           see
           the
           Election
           made
           ,
           and
           he
           recommendeth
           one
           ,
           but
           ●he
           Can●ns
           may
           chuse
           whom
           they
           please
           ;
           and
           the
           present
           Elector
           was
           not
           of
           the
           Emper●rs
           Recommendation
           .
           Be●ides
           the
           Palace
           at
           Mentz
           ,
           the
           Elect●r
           hath
           ano●her
           near
           ●
           rankf●rt
           ,
           which
           is
           thought
           the
           best
           that
           is
           in
           those
           parts
           ●f
           Germany
           :
           The
           Cathedral
           is
           a
           huge
           Gothick
           Building
           ;
           ●here
           is
           a
           great
           C●pul●
           in
           the
           West-end
           ,
           and
           there
           the
           Quire
           singeth
           Mass
           :
           I
           could
           not
           learn
           whether
           this
           was
           one
           only
           because
           the
           place
           here
           was
           of
           gr●ater
           reception
           ●han
           at
           the
           East-end
           ,
           or
           if
           any
           burying
           place
           and
           indowment
           obliged
           them
           to
           the
           West-end
           .
           Near
           the
           Cathedral●here
           ●here
           is
           a
           huge
           Chappel
           of
           great
           Antiquity
           ,
           and
           on
           the
           
             North
             Door
          
           there
           are
           two
           great
           
             Brass
             Gates
          
           with
           a
           long
           Inscription
           ,
           which
           I
           had
           not
           time
           to
           write
           out
           ,
           but
           I
           ●ound
           it
           was
           in
           the
           
             Emperor
             Lothariu's
          
           time
           .
           There
           are
           a
           vast
           number
           of
           Churches
           in
           this
           Town
           ,
           but
           it
           is
           poor
           and
           ●ll
           inhabited
           .
           The
           Rhine
           here
           is
           almost
           half
           an
           
             English
             mile
          
           broad
           ,
           and
           there
           is
           a
           Bridge
           of
           Boats
           lay'd
           over
           it
           .
           From
           Mentz
           all
           along
           to
           Baccharach
           (
           which
           seems
           to
           cary
           its
           name
           [
           
             Bacch●
             Ar●
          
           ]
           from
           some
           famous
           Altar
           that
           the
           Romans
           probably
           erected
           by
           reason
           of
           the
           good
           Win●
           that
           grows
           in
           the
           Neigbourhood
           .
           )
           There
           is
           a
           great
           number
           of
           very
           considerable
           Villages
           on
           both
           sides
           of
           the
           River
           :
           Here
           the
           
             Rats
             Tower
          
           is
           shewed
           ,
           and
           the
           People
           of
           the
           Country
           do
           all
           firmly
           believe
           the
           Story
           of
           the
           Rats
           eating
           ●p
           an
           Elector
           ,
           and
           that
           tho
           he
           fled
           to
           this
           Island
           ,
           where
           ●e
           built
           a
           small
           Tower
           ,
           they
           pursued
           him
           still
           ▪
           and
           
           swimmed
           after
           him
           ,
           and
           eat
           him
           up
           :
           and
           they
           told
           us
           ,
           that
           there
           were
           some
           of
           his
           Bones
           to
           be
           seen
           still
           in
           the
           Tow●r
           .
           This
           extraordina●●
           death
           makes
           me
           call
           to
           mind
           a
           very
           particular
           and
           unlooked
           for
           sort
           of
           Death
           ,
           that
           carried
           off
           a
           poor
           La●ou●er
           of
           the
           ground
           a
           few
           dayes
           before
           I
           left
           Ge●eva
           The
           Foot
           of
           one
           of
           his
           Cattel
           ,
           as
           he
           was
           ploughing
           ,
           went
           into
           a
           
             Nest
             of
             ●asps
          
           ,
           upon
           which
           the
           whole
           Sw●rm
           came
           out
           ,
           an●
           set
           upon
           him
           that
           held
           the
           Plow
           ,
           and
           killed
           him
           in
           a
           very
           little
           time
           ;
           and
           his
           Body
           was
           prodigiously
           swelled
           with
           the
           poison
           of
           so
           many
           Stings
           But
           to
           return
           to
           the
           Rhine
           ;
           all
           the
           way
           from
           Baccharach
           down
           to
           C●blents
           ,
           there
           is
           on
           both
           sides
           of
           the
           River
           hanging
           G●ounds
           ,
           or
           little
           Hi●ls
           ,
           so
           laid
           ,
           as
           i●
           many
           of
           them
           ha●
           been
           laid
           by
           Art
           ,
           whi●h
           produce
           the
           rich
           
             Rhenish
             Wine
          
           .
           They
           are
           indeed
           as
           well
           exposed
           to
           the
           Sun
           ,
           and
           covered
           from
           Storms
           ,
           as
           can
           be
           imagined
           :
           and
           the
           Ground
           of
           those
           Hills
           ,
           which
           are
           in
           some
           place●
           of
           a
           considerable
           height
           ,
           is
           so
           cultivated
           ,
           that
           there
           i●
           not
           an
           inch
           lost
           that
           is
           capable
           of
           improvement
           ,
           and
           thi●
           bringeth
           so
           much
           Wealth
           into
           the
           Coun●ry
           ,
           that
           all
           along
           there
           is
           a
           great
           number
           of
           considerable
           
             Villages
             .
             Cohlent●
          
           is
           the
           strongest
           place
           that
           I
           saw
           of
           all
           that
           belong
           to
           th●
           Empire
           ;
           the
           scituation
           is
           N●ble
           ,
           the
           Rhine
           running
           befor●
           it
           ,
           ●and
           the
           Moselle
           passing
           along
           the
           side
           of
           the
           Town
           ;
           it
           is
           well
           fortified
           ,
           the
           Ditch
           is
           large
           ,
           the
           Counterscarp
           is
           high
           ,
           and
           the
           covered
           Way
           is
           in
           a
           good
           Condition
           ,
           both
           Wall●
           and
           Counterscarp
           are
           faced
           with
           Brick
           ,
           and
           there
           are
           Ravelines
           before
           the
           Cortines
           ;
           but
           on
           the
           side
           of
           the
           Mosell●
           it
           is
           very
           slightly
           fortified
           ,
           and
           there
           is
           no
           Fort
           at
           the
           en●
           of
           the
           
             Stone
             Bridge
          
           that
           is
           laid
           over
           Moselle
           ,
           so
           that
           it
           lieth
           quite
           open
           on
           that
           side
           ,
           which
           seemeth
           a
           strange
           defect
           in
           a
           place
           of
           that
           consequence
           .
           But
           tho
           the
           F●rtifi●ations
           of
           ●his
           place
           are
           very
           considerabl●
           ,
           yet
           its
           chief
           de●ence
           lieth
           in
           the
           F●rt
           of
           Herm●nstan
           ,
           which
           is
           built
           on
           the
           top
           of
           a
           very
           high
           Hill
           ,
           that
           lyeth
           on
           the
           other
           side
           of
           the
           Rhine
           ;
           and
           which
           commandeth
           this
           place
           so
           absolutely
           ▪
           that
           he
           who
           is
           Master
           of
           Hermanstan
           ,
           is
           alwayes
           Master
           o●
           Coblents
           .
           This
           belongeth
           to
           the
           
             Elector
             of
             Triers
          
           ,
           whos●
           
           Palace
           lyeth
           on
           the
           East
           side
           of
           the
           Rhine
           ,
           just
           at
           the
           Foot
           o●
           the
           Hill
           of
           Hermanstan
           ,
           and
           over
           against
           the
           point
           ●here
           the
           Mose●●e
           fa●leth
           into
           the
           Rhine
           ,
           so
           tha●
           nothing
           ●an
           be
           more
           pleasantly
           scitua●ed
           ;
           only
           the
           ground
           begins
           ●o
           rise
           just
           at
           the
           ba●k
           of
           the
           House
           with
           so
           mu●h
           stee●ness
           ,
           ●hat
           there
           is
           not
           Room
           for
           Gardens
           or
           Walks
           .
           The
           House
           ●●keth
           a
           great
           shew
           upon
           the
           River
           ,
           but
           we
           w●re
           told
           ,
           ●hat
           the
           Apartments
           within
           were
           not
           answerable
           to
           ●he
           o●●side
           .
           I
           say
           ,
           we
           were
           told
           ,
           for
           the
           Princ●s●eep
           ●eep
           such
           forms
           ,
           that
           ,
           without
           a
           great
           deal
           of
           ado
           ,
           one
           ●annot
           come
           within
           their
           Courts
           ,
           unless
           it
           be
           when
           they
           ●re
           abroad
           themselves
           ;
           so
           that
           we
           neither
           got
           within
           the
           Pala●e
           at
           M●n●z
           ,
           nor
           this
           of
           Herm●nstan
           .
           It
           is
           but
           a
           few
           Hours
           from
           this
           to
           Bonne
           ,
           where
           the
           
             Elector
             of
             Collen
          
           kee●eth
           his
           Court
           :
           The
           Place
           hath
           a
           regular
           Fortification
           ;
           the
           Walls
           are
           faced
           with
           Brick
           ;
           but
           tho
           the
           Ditch
           ,
           which
           is
           ●ry
           ,
           is
           pretty
           broad
           ,
           the
           Counters●arp
           is
           in
           so
           ill
           a
           condi●ion
           that
           it
           is
           not
           able
           to
           make
           a
           great
           defence
           .
           This
           〈◊〉
           is
           the
           Noblest
           born
           ,
           and
           the
           best
           provided
           of
           all
           the
           
             ●erman
             Clergy
          
           ;
           for
           he
           is
           Brother
           to
           the
           Great
           
             Maximilian
             Duke
             of
             Bavaria
          
           ;
           and
           besides
           Collen
           ,
           he
           hath
           
             Liege
             ,
             Mun●er
          
           ,
           and
           Hildelsh●im
           ,
           which
           are
           all
           great
           Bishoprick●
           :
           He
           hath
           been
           also
           six
           and
           thirty
           years
           in
           the
           Electorate
           :
           His
           Palace
           is
           very
           mean
           ,
           consisting
           but
           of
           one
           Court
           ;
           the
           half
           of
           which
           is
           cast
           into
           a
           little
           Garden
           ,
           and
           the
           Wood-yard
           i●
           in
           the
           very
           Court
           ;
           the
           lower
           part
           of
           the
           Court
           was
           a
           Stable
           :
           but
           he
           hath
           made
           an
           Apartment
           here
           ,
           that
           is
           all
           fur●ished
           with
           Pictures
           ;
           where
           ,
           as
           there
           are
           some
           of
           the
           hands
           of
           the
           greatest
           Ma●●ers
           ,
           so
           there
           are
           a
           great
           many
           foils
           to
           set
           these
           off
           ,
           that
           are
           scarce
           good
           enough
           for
           Signposts
           .
        
         
           The
           Elector
           has
           a
           great
           many
           
             Gold
             Medalls
          
           ,
           which
           will
           give
           me
           occasion
           to
           tell
           you
           one
           of
           the
           Ex●ravagantest
           pieces
           of
           Forgery
           that
           pe●haps
           e●er
           was
           ;
           whi●h
           hapned
           to
           be
           found
           out
           at
           the
           last
           ●iege
           of
           Bonne
           :
           for
           while
           they
           were
           clearing
           the
           ground
           for
           ●lanting
           a
           ●att●ry
           ▪
           they
           discovered
           a
           Vault
           ,
           in
           whi●h
           there
           was
           an
           
             Iron
             chest
          
           that
           was
           ●ull
           of
           
             Medalls
             of
             Gold
          
           to
           the
           value
           of
           100000
           Cr●wns
           ;
           and
           ●f
           which
           I
           was
           ●old
           the
           Elector
           bought
           to
           the
           value
           of
           30000
           
           Crowns
           .
           They
           are
           huge
           big
           ,
           one
           weighed
           800.
           
           Ducat●
           and
           the
           Gold
           was
           of
           the
           fineness
           of
           
             Du●at
             Gold
          
           :
           but
           tho
           the●
           bore
           the
           Impressions
           of
           
             Roma●
             Medalls
          
           ,
           or
           rather
           Medail●ons
           ,
           they
           were
           all
           C●unterfeit
           ,
           and
           the
           im●tation
           was
           so
           coursely
           done
           ,
           that
           one
           must
           be
           extream
           Ignorant
           in
           Medalls
           to
           be
           deceived
           by
           them
           .
           Some
           few
           that
           seemed
           true
           ,
           were
           of
           the
           late
           
             Greek
             Emperors
          
           .
           Now
           it
           is
           very
           unaccountable
           ,
           what
           could
           in●uce
           a
           man
           to
           make
           a
           forgery
           upon
           such
           Mettle
           ,
           and
           in
           so
           vast
           a
           quantity
           ,
           and
           then
           to
           bury
           all
           this
           under
           ground
           ,
           especially
           in
           an
           Age
           in
           which
           so
           much
           Gold
           was
           ten
           times
           the
           value
           of
           what
           it
           is
           at
           present
           ;
           for
           it
           is
           judged
           to
           have
           been
           done
           about
           four
           or
           five
           hundred
           years
           ago
           .
        
         
           The
           Prince
           went
           out
           a
           hun●ing
           while
           we
           were
           there
           ,
           with
           a
           very
           handsome
           Guard
           of
           about
           fourscore
           Horse
           ,
           well
           mounted
           ;
           so
           we
           saw
           the
           Palace
           ;
           but
           were
           not
           suffered
           to
           see
           the
           Apartment
           where
           he
           lodged
           :
           There
           is
           a
           great
           Silver
           Casolette
           gilt
           ,
           all
           set
           with
           Emeralds
           and
           R●bies
           ,
           that
           tho
           they
           made
           a
           fine
           appearance
           ,
           yet
           were
           a
           Composition
           of
           the
           Princes
           own
           making
           :
           His
           O●ficer●
           also
           shewed
           us
           a
           Bason
           and
           Ewer
           ,
           which
           they
           s●id
           were
           of
           Mercury
           fixed
           by
           the
           Prince
           himself
           ▪
           but
           they
           added
           ,
           that
           now
           for
           many
           years
           he
           wrought
           no
           more
           in
           his
           Lab●u●atory
           .
           I
           did
           not
           easily
           believe
           this
           ,
           and
           as
           the
           weight
           of
           the
           Plate
           did
           not
           approach
           to
           that
           of
           Quick-Silver
           ,
           so
           the
           Medicinal
           Vertues
           of
           fixed
           Mercury
           (
           if
           there
           is
           any
           such
           thing
           )
           are
           so
           extraordinary
           ,
           that
           is
           seemed
           very
           strange
           to
           see
           twenty
           or
           thirty
           pound
           of
           it
           made
           up
           in
           two
           pieces
           of
           Plate
           .
           A
           quarter
           of
           a
           mile
           without
           the
           Town
           ,
           the
           best
           Garden
           of
           those
           parts
           of
           Germany
           is
           to
           be
           seen
           ,
           in
           which
           there
           is
           a
           great
           variety
           of
           Water-works
           ,
           and
           very
           many
           Noble
           A●i●s
           in
           the
           French
           manner
           ,
           and
           the
           whole
           is
           of
           a
           very
           considerable
           extent
           ;
           but
           as
           it
           hath
           no
           Statues
           of
           any
           value
           to
           adorn
           it
           ,
           so
           the
           House
           about
           which
           it
           lyeth
           ,
           is
           in
           Ruins
           :
           and
           it
           is
           strange
           to
           see
           ,
           that
           so
           rich
           and
           so
           great
           a
           Prince
           ,
           during
           so
           long
           a
           Regency
           ,
           hath
           done
           so
           little
           to
           inlarge
           or
           beautifie
           his
           Buildings
           .
           Bonne
           and
           Cobl●ntz
           are
           both
           poor
           and
           small
           Towns.
           Collen
           is
           three
           
           hours
           distant
           from
           Bonne
           ,
           it
           is
           of
           a
           prodigious
           extent
           ,
           but
           ill
           built
           and
           worse
           peopled
           in
           the
           remote
           parts
           of
           it
           :
           and
           as
           the
           Walls
           a●e
           all
           in
           an
           ill
           case
           ,
           so
           it
           is
           not
           possible
           to
           fortify
           so
           vast
           a
           compass
           as
           this
           Town
           maketh
           ,
           as
           it
           ought
           to
           be
           ,
           without
           a
           charge
           that
           would
           eat
           out
           the
           whole
           Wealth
           of
           this
           
             little
             State.
          
           The
           Iews
           live
           in
           a
           little
           Suburb
           on
           the
           other
           side
           of
           the
           Riv●r
           ,
           and
           may
           not
           come
           over
           ,
           without
           leave
           obtained
           ,
           for
           which
           they
           pay
           considerably
           .
           There
           is
           no
           Exercise
           of
           the
           
             Protestant
             Religion
          
           suffered
           within
           the
           Town
           ,
           but
           those
           of
           the
           Religion
           are
           suffered
           to
           live
           there
           ,
           and
           they
           have
           a
           Ch●r●h
           at
           two
           miles
           distance
           .
           The
           Arsenal
           here
           ,
           is
           suitable
           to
           the
           Fortificat●ons
           ;
           very
           mean
           ,
           and
           ill
           furnished
           .
           The
           Quire
           of
           the
           Great
           Church
           is
           as
           high
           in
           the
           ●oof
           ,
           as
           any
           Church
           I
           ever
           saw
           ;
           but
           it
           seemes
           the
           Wealth
           of
           this
           place
           could
           not
           finish
           the
           whole
           Fabrick
           ,
           so
           as
           to
           answer
           the
           height
           of
           the
           Quire
           ;
           for
           the
           Body
           of
           the
           Church
           is
           very
           low
           :
           Those
           that
           are
           disposed
           to
           believe
           Legends
           ,
           have
           enough
           here
           to
           overset
           even
           a
           good
           degree
           of
           Credulity
           ,
           both
           in
           the
           Story
           of
           the
           
             Three
             Kings
          
           ,
           whose
           Chappel
           is
           visited
           with
           great
           Devotion
           ,
           and
           standeth
           at
           the
           East
           ●nd
           of
           the
           Great
           Quire
           ;
           and
           in
           that
           more
           copious
           Fa●le
           of
           the
           eleven
           thousand
           Vrsulins
           ,
           whose
           Church
           is
           all
           over
           full
           of
           rough
           Tombs
           ,
           and
           of
           a
           vast
           number
           of
           Bones
           ,
           that
           are
           piled
           up
           in
           rows
           about
           the
           Walls
           of
           the
           Church
           :
           These
           Fables
           are
           so
           firmly
           believed
           by
           the
           Papists
           there
           ,
           that
           the
           least
           sign
           whi●h
           one
           giveth
           of
           doubting
           of
           their
           truth
           ,
           passeth
           for
           an
           infall●ble
           Mark
           of
           an
           Heretick
           .
           The
           I●suites
           have
           a
           great
           and
           Noble
           Coll●dge
           and
           Chur●h
           here
           .
           And
           for
           Thaul●r's
           sake
           I
           went
           to
           the
           Dominicans
           House
           and
           Church
           ,
           which
           is
           also
           very
           great
           .
           One
           grows
           extream
           weary
           of
           walking
           over
           this
           great
           Town
           ,
           and
           doth
           not
           find
           enough
           of
           entertainment
           in
           it
           :
           The
           present
           Subject
           of
           their
           Dis●ourse
           is
           al●o
           ●ery
           melan●holy
           :
           The
           late
           Rebellion
           that
           was
           there
           ,
           is
           so
           generally
           known
           ,
           that
           I
           need
           no●
           say
           much
           concerning
           it
           .
           A
           report
           was
           set
           about
           th●
           Town
           ,
           by
           some
           I●●en●iarys
           ,
           that
           the
           Magistrates
           
           did
           eat
           up
           the
           
             publick
             Revenue
          
           ,
           and
           were
           like
           to
           ruin
           the
           City
           ;
           I
           could
           not
           learn
           what
           ground
           there
           was
           for
           these
           reports
           ;
           for
           it
           is
           not
           ordinary
           to
           see
           reports
           of
           that
           kind
           fly
           ,
           through
           a
           body
           of
           men
           ,
           without
           some
           Foundation
           :
           It
           is
           certain
           ,
           this
           came
           to
           be
           so
           generally
           believed
           ,
           that
           there
           was
           a
           horrible
           disorder
           occasioned
           by
           it
           ;
           The
           Magistrates
           were
           glad
           to
           save
           themselves
           from
           the
           storm
           ,
           and
           abandoned
           the
           Town
           to
           the
           popular
           fury
           ,
           some
           of
           them
           having
           been
           made
           sacrifices
           to
           it
           ;
           and
           this
           rage
           held
           long
           :
           But
           within
           this
           last
           year
           ,
           after
           near
           two
           years
           disorder
           ,
           those
           that
           were
           sent
           by
           the
           Emperor
           and
           Diet
           to
           judge
           the
           matter
           ,
           having
           threatned
           to
           put
           the
           Town
           under
           the
           
             Imperial
             Bann
          
           ,
           if
           it
           had
           stood
           longer
           out
           ,
           were
           received
           ▪
           and
           have
           put
           the
           Magistrates
           again
           in
           the
           possession
           os
           rheir
           Authority
           ,
           and
           all
           the
           chief
           Incendi●rys
           were
           clapt
           in
           Prison
           :
           many
           have
           already
           suffered
           ,
           and
           a
           great
           many
           more
           are
           still
           in
           Prison
           :
           they
           told
           us
           ,
           that
           some
           executions
           were
           to
           be
           made
           within
           a
           week
           when
           we
           were
           there
           .
           Dusseldorp
           is
           the
           first
           considerable
           Town
           below
           Collen
           ,
           it
           is
           the
           Seat
           of
           the
           
             Duke
             of
             Iuliers
          
           ,
           who
           is
           
             Duke
             of
             Newburgh
          
           ,
           eldest
           Son
           to
           the
           present
           
             Elector
             Palatine
          
           .
           The
           Palace
           is
           old
           and
           Gothick
           enough
           :
           but
           the
           Iesuites
           have
           there
           a
           fine
           Colledge
           ,
           and
           a
           noble
           Chappel
           ,
           tho
           there
           are
           manifest
           faults
           in
           the
           Archi●ecture
           :
           the
           
             Protestant
             Religion
          
           is
           tolerated
           ,
           and
           they
           have
           a
           Church
           built
           here
           within
           these
           few
           years
           ,
           tbat
           wat
           procured
           by
           the
           intercession
           of
           the
           
             Elector
             of
             Brandenburgh
          
           ,
           who
           observing
           exactly
           the
           
             Liberty
             of
             Religion
          
           that
           was
           agreed
           to
           in
           Cleve
           ,
           had
           reason
           to
           see
           the
           same
           as
           duly
           observed
           in
           his
           Neighbou●hood
           ,
           in
           favour
           of
           his
           own
           Religion
           .
           The
           Fortification
           here
           is
           very
           ordinary
           ,
           the
           Ramparts
           being
           faced
           but
           a
           few
           foo●
           high
           with
           Brick
           .
           But
           Keisersw●rt
           ,
           some
           hours
           lower
           on
           the
           same
           side
           ,
           which
           belongeth
           to
           the
           
             Elector
             o●
             Collen
          
           ,
           tho
           it
           is
           a
           mu●h
           worse
           T●wn
           than
           Dusseldorp
           ,
           yet
           is
           much
           better
           fortified
           :
           it
           ha●h
           a
           very
           broad
           Ditch
           ,
           and
           a
           very
           regular
           Fortification
           :
           the
           Walls
           are
           considerably
           high
           ,
           faced
           with
           Brick
           ,
           and
           so
           i●
           the
           Counterscarp
           ,
           which
           is
           also
           in
           a
           very
           good
           Condition
           .
           The
           Fortification
           of
           Orsoy
           〈◊〉
           
           now
           quite
           demolished
           .
           Rhineberg
           continueth
           as
           it
           was
           but
           the
           Fortificati●n
           is
           very
           mean
           ,
           only
           of
           Earth
           ,
           so
           that
           it
           is
           not
           capable
           of
           making
           a
           great
           Resistance
           .
           And
           ●esel
           ,
           tho
           it
           is
           a
           very
           fine
           Town
           ,
           yet
           is
           a
           very
           poor
           Fortification
           ,
           nor
           can
           it
           ever
           be
           made
           good
           ,
           except
           at
           a
           vast
           expence
           :
           for
           the
           ground
           all
           about
           it
           being
           sandy
           ,
           nothing
           can
           be
           made
           there
           that
           will
           be
           durable
           ,
           unless
           the
           Foundation
           go
           very
           deep
           ,
           or
           that
           it
           be
           laid
           upon
           Piloty
           .
           In
           all
           ●hese
           Towns
           one
           sees
           another
           air
           of
           Wealth
           and
           Abundance
           than
           in
           much
           richer
           Countrys
           ,
           that
           are
           exhausted
           with
           
             Taxes
             .
             Rees
          
           and
           Emmerick
           are
           good
           Towns
           ,
           but
           the
           Fortifications
           are
           quite
           ruined
           .
           So
           that
           here
           is
           a
           rich
           and
           a
           populous
           Country
           ,
           that
           hath
           at
           present
           very
           little
           desence
           ,
           except
           what
           it
           hath
           from
           its
           scitua●ion
           .
           Cleve
           is
           a
           delicious
           Place
           ,
           the
           scituation
           and
           prospect
           are
           charming
           ,
           and
           the
           Air
           is
           very
           pure
           ;
           and
           from
           thence
           we
           came
           hither
           in
           three
           hours
           .
        
         
           I
           will
           not
           say
           one
           word
           of
           the
           Country
           into
           which
           I
           am
           now
           come
           ;
           for
           as
           I
           know
           that
           is
           needless
           to
           you
           on
           many
           accounts
           ,
           so
           a
           Picture
           that
           I
           see
           here
           in
           the
           Stadthouse
           ,
           puts
           me
           in
           min●
           of
           the
           perfectest
           Book
           of
           its
           kind
           that
           is
           perhaps
           in
           being
           ;
           for
           
             Sir
             William
             Temple
          
           ,
           whose
           Picture
           hangeth
           here
           at
           the
           upper
           end
           of
           the
           Plenipotentiary
           ,
           that
           negotiated
           the
           famou●
           
             Treaty
             of
             Nimmegen
          
           ,
           hath
           indeed
           set
           a
           pattern
           to
           the
           World
           ,
           which
           is
           done
           with
           such
           life
           ,
           that
           it
           may
           justly
           make
           others
           blush
           to
           copy
           after
           it
           ,
           since
           it
           must
           be
           acknowledged
           ,
           that
           if
           we
           had
           as
           perfect
           an
           account
           of
           the
           other
           Places
           ,
           as
           he
           hath
           given
           us
           of
           one
           of
           the
           least
           ,
           but
           yet
           one
           of
           the
           Noblest
           parcels
           of
           the
           
             Vniverse
             ,
             Travelli●g
          
           would
           become
           a
           needless
           thing
           ,
           unless
           it
           were
           for
           diversion
           :
           since
           one
           findeth
           no
           further
           occasion
           for
           his
           curiosity
           in
           this
           Country
           ,
           than
           what
           is
           fully
           fa●issyed
           by
           his
           rare
           performance
           ;
           yet
           I
           cannot
           give
           over
           writing
           ,
           without
           reflecting
           on
           the
           Resistance
           that
           this
           Place
           made
           ,
           when
           so
           many
           other
           Places
           were
           so
           basely
           delivered
           up
           ,
           tho
           one
           do●h
           not
           see
           in
           the
           ●uins
           of
           the
           Fortificati●n
           here
           ,
           how
           it
           could
           make
           so
           long
           a
           resistance
           ;
           yet
           it
           was
           that
           that
           stem'd
           the
           tide
           of
           a
           progre●s
           that
           made
           
           all
           the
           World
           stand
           amazed
           ;
           and
           it
           gave
           a
           little
           time
           to
           the
           Dutch
           to
           recover
           themselves
           out
           of
           the
           constern●●io●
           ▪
           into
           which
           so
           many
           blows
           ,
           that
           came
           so
           thi●k
           one
           〈◊〉
           another
           ,
           had
           struck
           them
           .
        
         
           But
           then
           the
           World
           saw
           a
           change
           ,
           that
           tho
           ●t
           hath
           not
           had
           so
           much
           Incense
           given
           to
           it
           ,
           as
           the
           happy
           conjuncture
           of
           another
           Prince
           hath
           drawn
           after
           it
           ,
           with
           so
           much
           excess
           ,
           that
           all
           the
           topicks
           of
           flattery
           seem
           exhausted
           by
           it
           ,
           yet
           will
           appear
           to
           posterity
           one
           of
           the
           most
           surprizing
           Scenes
           in
           History
           ,
           and
           that
           which
           may
           be
           well
           matched
           with
           the
           recovery
           of
           the
           
             Roman
             State
          
           after
           the
           Battel
           of
           Canne
           .
           When
           a
           
             young
             Prince
          
           ,
           that
           had
           never
           before
           born
           Arms
           ,
           or
           so
           much
           as
           seen
           a
           Campagne
           ,
           who
           had
           little
           or
           no
           Council
           about
           him
           ,
           but
           that
           which
           was
           suggested
           from
           his
           own
           thoughts
           ,
           and
           that
           had
           no
           extraordinary
           advantage
           by
           his
           Education
           ,
           either
           for
           Literature
           or
           Aff●irs
           ,
           was
           of
           a
           sudden
           set
           at
           the
           Head
           of
           a
           State
           and
           Army
           ,
           th●t
           was
           sunk
           with
           so
           many
           losses
           ,
           and
           that
           saw
           the
           best
           half
           of
           its
           Soil
           torn
           from
           it
           ,
           and
           the
           powerfullest
           Enemy
           in
           the
           World
           ,
           surrounded
           with
           a
           Victorious
           Army
           ,
           that
           was
           commanded
           by
           the
           best
           Generals
           that
           the
           Age
           had
           produced
           ,
           come
           within
           sight
           ,
           and
           settle
           his
           Court
           in
           one
           of
           its
           best
           Towns
           ,
           and
           had
           at
           the
           same
           time
           the
           greatest
           force
           both
           by
           Sea
           and
           Land
           ,
           that
           hath
           been
           known
           ,
           united
           together
           for
           its
           destruction
           .
           When
           the
           Inhabitants
           were
           forced
           ,
           that
           they
           might
           save
           themselves
           from
           so
           formidable
           an
           Enemy
           ,
           to
           let
           loose
           that
           which
           on
           all
           other
           occasions
           ,
           is
           the
           most
           dreadful
           to
           them
           ,
           and
           to
           drown
           so
           great
           a
           part
           of
           their
           Soil
           ,
           for
           the
           preservation
           of
           the
           rest
           ;
           and
           to
           complicate
           together
           all
           the
           Miseries
           that
           a
           Nation
           can
           dread
           ,
           wh●n
           to
           the
           general
           consternation
           ,
           with
           which
           so
           dismall
           a
           S●e●e
           possessed
           them
           ,
           a
           distraction
           within
           doors
           seemed
           to
           threaten
           them
           with
           the
           last
           strokes
           ;
           and
           while
           their
           Army
           was
           so
           ill
           disciplined
           ,
           that
           they
           durst
           scarce
           promise
           themselves
           any
           thing
           from
           such
           feeble
           Troops
           ,
           after
           a
           Peace
           at
           Land
           of
           almost
           
             thirty
             Years
          
           continuance
           ▪
           and
           while
           their
           chief
           Ally
           ,
           that
           was
           the
           most
           concerned
           in
           their
           preservation
           ,
           was
           ,
           like
           a
           great
           paralitick
           body
           ,
           
           ●iker
           to
           fall
           on
           those
           that
           it
           pretended
           to
           support
           ,
           and
           tho
           crush
           them
           ,
           than
           to
           give
           them
           any
           considerable
           assistance
           :
           When
           ,
           I
           say
           ,
           a
           
             young
             Prince
          
           came
           at
           the
           Head
           of
           ●ll
           this
           ,
           the
           very
           prospect
           of
           which
           would
           have
           quite
           dampt
           an
           ordinary
           Courage
           ,
           he
           very
           quickly
           changed
           the
           Scene
           ,
           he
           animated
           the
           
             Publick
             Councils
          
           with
           a
           generous
           vigour
           :
           he
           found
           them
           sinking
           into
           a
           feebleness
           of
           hearkning
           to
           Propositions
           for
           a
           Peace
           ,
           that
           were
           as
           little
           safe
           as
           they
           were
           honourable
           ;
           but
           he
           disposed
           them
           to
           resolve
           on
           hazarding
           all
           ,
           rather
           than
           to
           submit
           to
           such
           Infamous
           Terms
           .
           His
           credit
           also
           among
           the
           Populace
           seemed
           to
           Inspire
           them
           with
           a
           new
           life
           ;
           they
           easily
           persuaded
           themselves
           ,
           that
           as
           one
           WILLIAM
           
             Prince
             of
          
           ORANGE
           had
           formed
           their
           State
           ,
           so
           here
           another
           of
           the
           same
           name
           seemed
           marked
           out
           to
           recover
           and
           preferve
           it
           .
           It
           was
           this
           Spirit
           of
           Courage
           which
           he
           derived
           from
           his
           own
           Breast
           ,
           and
           Infused
           into
           the
           whole
           People
           ,
           as
           well
           as
           into
           the
           Magistracy
           ,
           that
           preserved
           this
           Country
           .
           Something
           there
           was
           in
           all
           this
           that
           was
           Divine
           .
           The
           
             publick
             Councils
          
           were
           again
           setled
           ,
           and
           the
           people
           were
           at
           quiet
           ,
           when
           they
           saw
           him
           vested
           with
           a
           full
           Authority
           for
           that
           time
           with
           Relation
           to
           Peace
           and
           War
           ,
           and
           concluded
           they
           were
           safe
           ,
           because
           they
           were
           in
           his
           hands
           .
           It
           soon
           appeared
           how
           faithfully
           he
           pursued
           the
           Interest
           of
           his
           Countrey
           ,
           and
           how
           little
           he
           regarded
           his
           own
           .
           He
           rejected
           all
           
             Propositions
             of
             Peace
          
           that
           were
           hurtful
           to
           his
           Country
           ,
           without
           so
           much
           as
           considering
           the
           Advantages
           that
           were
           offered
           to
           himself
           ,
           (
           in
           which
           you
           know
           that
           I
           write
           upon
           sure
           grounds
           .
           )
           He
           refused
           the
           offer
           of
           the
           Soveraignty
           of
           its
           Chief
           City
           ,
           that
           was
           made
           to
           him
           by
           a
           solemn
           Deputation
           ,
           being
           satisfied
           with
           that
           Authority
           which
           had
           been
           so
           long
           maintained
           by
           his
           Ancestors
           with
           so
           much
           glory
           ,
           and
           being
           justly
           sensible
           ,
           how
           much
           the
           breaking
           in
           upon
           established
           Laws
           and
           Liberties
           ,
           is
           fatal
           even
           to
           those
           that
           seem
           to
           get
           by
           it
           .
           He
           thus
           began
           his
           publick
           appearance
           on
           the
           Stage
           ,
           with
           all
           the
           disadvantages
           that
           a
           Spirit
           aspiring
           to
           true
           Glory
           could
           wish
           for
           ;
           since
           it
           was
           Visible
           ,
           that
           he
           had
           nothing
           to
           trust
           to
           ,
           but
           a
           good
           Cause
           ;
           a
           favourable
           Providence
           ,
           
           and
           his
           own
           Integrity
           and
           Courage●
           nor
           was
           success
           wanting
           to
           such
           Noble
           Beginnings
           ;
           for
           he
           in
           a
           short
           time
           ,
           with
           a
           Conduct
           and
           Spirit
           beyond
           any
           thing
           that
           the
           World
           hath
           yet
           seen
           ,
           recovered
           this
           S●ate
           ,
           out
           of
           so
           desperate
           a
           distemper
           ,
           took
           some
           Places
           by
           main
           force
           ,
           and
           obliged
           the
           Enemy
           to
           abandon
           all
           that
           they
           had
           acquired
           in
           so
           feeble
           a
           manner
           .
           And
           if
           a
           raw
           Army
           had
           not
           always
           success
           ,
           against
           more
           numerous
           and
           better-trained
           Troops
           ,
           and
           if
           the
           want
           of
           Magazins
           and
           Stores
           in
           their
           Allys
           Country
           ,
           which
           was
           the
           chief
           Scene
           of
           the
           War
           ;
           made
           that
           he
           cou●d
           not
           Post
           his
           Army
           ,
           and
           wait
           ●or
           favourable
           circumstances
           ,
           so
           that
           he
           was
           sometimes
           ,
           forced
           to
           run
           to
           Action
           ,
           with
           a
           hast
           that
           his
           Necessitys
           imposed
           upon
           him
           ;
           yet
           the
           forcing
           of
           the
           beginnings
           of
           a
           Victory
           out
           of
           the
           hands
           of
           the
           
             greatest
             General
          
           of
           the
           Age
           ,
           the
           facing
           a
           greeat
           Monarch
           with
           an
           Army
           much
           inferior
           to
           his
           ,
           when
           the
           other
           was
           too
           cautious
           to
           hazard
           an
           ingagement
           ;
           and
           in
           short
           ,
           the
           forming
           the
           
             Dutch
             Army
          
           to
           such
           a
           pitch
           ,
           that
           it
           became
           visibly
           Superior
           to
           the
           French
           ,
           that
           seemed
           to
           have
           been
           sed
           with
           Conquests
           ;
           and
           the
           continuing
           the
           War
           ,
           till
           the
           Prince
           that
           had
           sacrificed
           the
           quiet
           of
           Eur●pe
           to
           his
           Gl●ry
           ,
           was
           glad
           to
           come
           and
           treat
           for
           a
           Pea●e
           in
           the
           
             Enemies
             Coun●ry
          
           ,
           and
           in
           this
           very
           place
           ,
           and
           to
           set
           all
           Engines
           on
           work
           to
           obtain
           that
           ,
           by
           the
           Mediation
           of
           some
           ,
           and
           the
           Jealousies
           of
           other
           Princes
           :
           all
           these
           are
           such
           Performances
           ,
           that
           Posterity
           will
           be
           disposed
           to
           rank
           them
           rather
           among
           the
           Idea's
           of
           what
           an
           imaginary
           H●ro
           could
           do
           ,
           than
           with
           what
           could
           be
           really
           Transacted
           in
           so
           short
           a
           time
           ,
           and
           in
           such
           a
           manner
           .
           And
           in
           conclusion
           ,
           every
           place
           that
           belonged
           to
           these
           States
           ,
           and
           to
           their
           Neighbours
           along
           the
           Rhine
           ,
           together
           with
           a
           great
           many
           in
           Flanders
           ,
           being
           restored
           ,
           these
           Provinces
           do
           now
           see
           themselves
           under
           his
           happy
           Co●duct
           ,
           re
           established
           in
           their
           former
           Peace
           and
           Se●urity
           .
           And
           tho
           some
           scars
           of
           such
           deep
           wounds
           do
           still
           remain
           ,
           yet
           ●hey
           find
           themselves
           considered
           on
           all
           hands
           ,
           as
           the
           Bulwark
           of
           Christ●ndom
           ,
           against
           the
           Fears
           of
           a
           
             new
             Monarchy
          
           ,
           and
           as
           the
           Preservers
           of
           the
           Peace
           and
           Liberty
           of
           Europe
           .
        
         
         
           Here
           is
           a
           Harvest
           ,
           not
           for
           forced
           Rhetorick
           ,
           or
           false
           Eloquence
           ,
           but
           for
           a
           severe
           and
           sincere
           Historian
           ,
           capable
           of
           affording
           a
           Work
           that
           will
           far
           exceed
           all
           those
           luscious
           Panegyricks
           of
           mercenary
           Pens
           :
           but
           a
           small
           or
           a
           counterfeit
           Iewel
           must
           be
           set
           with
           all
           possible
           Advantages
           ,
           when
           a
           true
           one
           of
           great
           value
           needs
           only
           to
           be
           shewed
           .
           I
           cannot
           end
           with
           a
           
             greater
             Subject
          
           ;
           and
           I
           must
           acknowledge
           my self
           to
           be
           so
           inflamed
           with
           this
           hint
           ,
           that
           as
           I
           cannot
           after
           this
           bring
           my
           pen
           down
           to
           lower
           matters
           ,
           so
           I
           dare
           not
           trust
           my self
           too
           long
           ,
           to
           the
           heat
           that
           so
           Noble
           an
           Object
           inspires
           ,
           therefore
           I
           break
           off
           abruptly
           .
        
         
           
             YOURS
             .
          
        
      
    
     
       
         
         
           An
           APPENDIX
           ,
           Containing
           some
           Remarks
           ,
           that
           have
           been
           sent
           to
           me
           by
           a
           Person
           of
           Quality
           .
        
         
           
             A
             Person
          
           of
           great
           Rank
           ,
           that
           is
           of
           Italian
           extraction
           ,
           and
           that
           by
           consequence
           knows
           the
           Countrey
           well
           ,
           having
           spent
           much
           of
           his
           time
           in
           it
           ,
           had
           heard
           that
           I
           was
           giving
           the
           World
           an
           account
           of
           the
           Reflections
           that
           I
           had
           made
           on
           
             the
             present
             State
             of
             Italy
          
           ,
           and
           upon
           that
           he
           writ
           the
           following
           Paper
           to
           one
           of
           his
           Friends
           ▪
           to
           be
           communicated
           to
           me
           ;
           for
           I
           have
           not
           the
           honour
           of
           any
           Commerce
           with
           himself
           :
           The
           Observations
           that
           he
           had
           made
           ,
           agreed
           so
           exactly
           with
           my
           own
           ,
           that
           I
           thought
           it
           would
           be
           no
           small
           Advantage
           towards
           the
           supporting
           the
           Credit
           of
           those
           that
           I
           had
           made
           ,
           to
           find
           them
           confirmed
           by
           so
           extraordinary
           a
           Person
           ,
           whose
           Character
           (
           as
           those
           who
           know
           him
           well
           have
           assured
           me
           )
           is
           so
           undisputed
           ,
           that
           if
           I
           durst
           name
           him
           ,
           this
           alone
           would
           serve
           to
           establish
           the
           belief
           of
           the
           most
           critical
           parts
           of
           my
           Letters
           in
           the
           minds
           of
           all
           that
           that
           should
           read
           his
           Paper
           :
           but
           since
           I
           cannot
           adventure
           on
           this
           ,
           without
           obtaining
           his
           Leave
           ,
           and
           since
           he
           is
           now
           at
           such
           a
           distance
           ,
           that
           it
           is
           not
           easie
           to
           get
           his
           Friend
           to
           write
           to
           him
           ,
           or
           to
           receive
           an
           Answer
           from
           him
           time
           enough
           ,
           therefore
           I
           have
           added
           this
           Memorial
           .
           There
           are
           two
           Particulars
           in
           which
           He
           and
           I
           differ
           ,
           and
           in
           so
           great
           a
           Variety
           of
           Observations
           ,
           that
           are
           so
           Critical
           ,
           and
           so
           much
           out
           of
           th●
           Common
           road
           ,
           it
           will
           not
           appear
           strange
           ,
           if
           there
           should
           be
           some
           disagreement
           ,
           when
           he
           mentions
           the
           Tax
           that
           the
           Pope
           has
           laid
           on
           the
           Corn
           ;
           he
           does
           not
           ad
           one
           thing
           which
           I
           mention
           ,
           and
           that
           is
           ,
           that
           the
           Measure
           ,
           by
           which
           the
           
             Pope
             ●ells
          
           ,
           is
           by
           a
           fifth
           part
           less
           than
           that
           by
           which
           h●
           buys
           :
           The
           o●her
           is
           more
           considerable
           ;
           for
           in
           the
           Account
           that
           he
           gives
           of
           the
           pre●ent
           Pope's
           breaking
           in
           upon
           the
           settlement
           of
           the
           Bank
           ,
           tho
           it
           is
           upon
           the
           matter
           very
           near
           the
           same
           with
           that
           which
           I
           give
           ,
           yet
           there
           is
           a
           differen●e
           of
           some
           Importance
           
           as
           to
           the
           manner
           of
           doing
           it
           ;
           but
           as
           to
           that
           ,
           all
           I
           can
           say
           ,
           is
           ▪
           that
           the
           first
           Account
           I
           had
           of
           that
           Transaction
           ,
           was
           the
           same
           that
           is
           in
           this
           Gentlemans
           Paper
           ;
           but
           afterwards
           I
           had
           occasion
           to
           talk
           of
           this
           matter
           very
           Copiously
           with
           one
           ,
           that
           has
           lived
           many
           years
           in
           the
           Popes
           Dominions
           ,
           and
           that
           has
           dealt
           much
           in
           those
           Affairs
           ;
           he
           has
           now
           a
           Character
           upon
           him
           ,
           and
           so
           it
           is
           not
           expedient
           to
           name
           him
           :
           It
           was
           from
           him
           that
           I
           had
           the
           particular
           recital
           of
           this
           matter
           ,
           and
           therefore
           I
           thought
           it
           surer
           to
           go
           upon
           the
           Information
           that
           I
           had
           from
           him
           ,
           than
           upon
           the
           general
           Report
           that
           all
           Strangers
           may
           find
           at
           Rome
           .
           This
           Paper
           had
           been
           more
           copious
           ,
           if
           the
           person
           that
           writ
           it
           ,
           had
           not
           been
           restrained
           by
           some
           particular
           Considerations
           from
           saying
           any
           thing
           relating
           to
           the
           Government
           of
           Venice
           .
        
      
       
         
         
           REMARKS
           .
           Vpon
           SWITZERLAND
           .
        
         
           IT
           is
           very
           surprising
           when
           one
           comes
           out
           of
           France
           ,
           (
           which
           is
           an
           Extraordinary
           good
           Country
           )
           into
           Switzerland
           ,
           which
           is
           not
           near
           so
           fertil
           ,
           and
           yet
           to
           see
           so
           great
           a
           difference
           between
           the
           People
           of
           ●ho●e
           two
           Countries
           .
           The
           People
           in
           France
           ,
           and
           especially
           the
           Peasants
           ,
           are
           very
           poor
           ,
           and
           most
           of
           them
           reduced
           to
           great
           Misery
           and
           Want.
           The
           People
           in
           Switzerland
           cannot
           be
           said
           to
           be
           very
           Rich
           ;
           but
           yet
           there
           are
           very
           few
           ,
           even
           amongst
           the
           Peasants
           themselves
           that
           are
           miserably
           poor
           ;
           the
           most
           part
           of
           them
           have
           enough
           to
           live
           upon
           ,
           from
           their
           Labour
           ,
           and
           the
           Fruits
           of
           the
           Earth
           .
           Every
           where
           in
           France
           ,
           even
           in
           the
           best
           Citys
           ,
           there
           are
           Swarms
           of
           Beggars
           ;
           and
           yet
           scarce
           any
           to
           be
           seen
           throughout
           all
           Switze●land
           .
           The
           Houses
           of
           the
           Peasants
           ,
           or
           Country
           people
           in
           France
           are
           extreamly
           mean
           ,
           and
           in
           them
           no
           other
           Furniture
           to
           be
           found
           besides
           poor
           nasty
           Beds
           ,
           straw
           Chairs
           ,
           and
           Plates
           and
           dishes
           of
           Wood
           and
           Earth
           :
           In
           Switzerland
           the
           Peasants
           have
           their
           Houses
           furnished
           with
           good
           Feather-Beds
           ,
           good
           Chairs
           ,
           and
           other
           Housholdstuff
           for
           their
           Convenience
           ,
           as
           well
           as
           their
           Necessity
           ;
           their
           Windows
           are
           all
           of
           glass
           ,
           always
           kept
           mended
           and
           whole
           ,
           and
           their
           Linnen
           very
           neat
           and
           white
           ,
           and
           as
           well
           for
           their
           Be●ding
           as
           their
           Tables
           .
        
         
           
             Of
             the
             GRISONS
             Country
             .
          
           
             THe
             Grisons
             Country
             is
             much
             more
             Barren
             than
             Switzerland
             ;
             because
             't
             is
             wholy
             upon
             the
             Mountains
             ,
             which
             produce
             nothing
             at
             all
             ;
             yet
             notwithstanding
             (
             all
             Excess
             and
             Luxury
             being
             banished
             from
             amongst
             them
             ,
             and
             the
             Inhabitants
             being
             extreamly
             Laborious
             )
             there
             are
             none
             to
             be
             seen
             there
             that
             are
             very
             poor
             and
             needy
             ,
             
             but
             they
             live
             at
             Ease
             and
             there
             are
             a
             great
             many
             ;
             Gentry
             of
             good
             Estates
             .
             Their
             Government
             is
             altogether
             Popular
             ;
             there
             are
             but
             three
             or
             four
             Royalties
             belonging
             to
             Nobility
             in
             all
             the
             Country
             .
             All
             the
             rest
             of
             their
             Lands
             are
             in
             Demeane
             ,
             which
             may
             yet
             well
             be
             called
             Royalties
             too
             ,
             because
             exempt
             from
             all
             dues
             and
             payments
             whatsoever
             .
             There
             is
             nothing
             at
             all
             to
             be
             pay'd
             for
             bringing
             into
             the
             Country
             any
             sort
             of
             Goods
             or
             Merchandises
             ,
             or
             for
             exporting
             of
             them
             thence
             ;
             every
             one
             there
             fully
             enjoys
             the
             Fruit
             of
             his
             own
             Labours
             ,
             and
             the
             Revenues
             of
             his
             Land
             ;
             although
             the
             Wine
             they
             drink
             is
             brought
             upon
             Horses
             four
             or
             five
             days
             Journey
             ,
             yet
             they
             have
             it
             cheaper
             there
             than
             in
             most
             parts
             of
             It●ly
             or
             France
             ,
             where
             it
             so
             plentifully
             grows
             .
             There
             are
             Villages
             upon
             the
             very
             tops
             of
             the
             Mountains
             ,
             consisting
             of
             150
             and
             200
             Houses
             apiece
             ;
             and
             altho'
             they
             have
             no
             Co●n
             or
             Grain
             that
             grows
             there
             ,
             and
             but
             very
             little
             Grass
             ,
             yet
             the
             Peasants
             keep
             three
             or
             four
             hundred
             Horses
             ,
             which
             they
             imploy
             to
             carry
             Goods
             and
             Merchandises
             ,
             which
             turns
             to
             so
             good
             account
             that
             they
             live
             very
             well
             ,
             and
             want
             nothing
             either
             for
             the
             Necessity
             or
             Convenience
             of
             life
             .
             The
             Inns
             upon
             the
             Mountains
             are
             very
             good
             ;
             and
             there
             is
             always
             to
             be
             had
             ,
             besides
             good
             Bread
             and
             Wine
             ,
             great
             quantity
             of
             Game
             and
             Venison
             ,
             according
             to
             the
             Season
             of
             the
             Year
             ,
             goo●
             Trouts
             ,
             very
             good
             Chambers
             ,
             and
             Beds
             after
             the
             manner
             of
             the
             Country
             .
             When
             you
             leave
             the
             Grisons
             Country
             ,
             and
             are
             ●ome
             into
             the
             Country
             of
             Chavenne
             ,
             the
             People
             begin
             to
             speak
             broken
             Italian
             :
             altho'
             this
             latter
             is
             a
             more
             fertil
             Country
             ,
             yet
             the
             Inhabitants
             and
             P●asants
             do
             not
             live
             so
             well
             as
             in
             the
             Grisons
             Country
             ,
             for
             that
             the
             Natives
             are
             more
             slothful
             and
             lazy
             :
             and
             here
             again
             there
             are
             abundance
             of
             poor
             People
             ,
             as
             you
             will
             find
             in
             all
             parts
             of
             Italy
          
        
         
           
             Of
             the
             Bailiages
             of
             LUGANE
             .
          
           
             THere
             are
             on
             the
             other
             side
             of
             the
             Mountains
             four
             Bailiages
             ,
             which
             were
             formerly
             part
             of
             the
             
               Dutchy
               of
               Milan
               ;
               Lewis
            
             XII
             .
             when
             he
             lost
             that
             Dutchy
             ,
             gave
             
             these
             Bailiages
             to
             some
             of
             the
             
               Switz
               Cantons
            
             .
             These
             Bailiages
             are
             called
             ,
             
               Lugane
               ,
               Lucarno
               ,
               Mendris
            
             ,
             and
             Belinston
             .
             I
             shall
             only
             take
             notice
             of
             the
             Bailiage
             of
             Lugane
             ,
             which
             contains
             ninety
             nine
             Villages
             ;
             The
             Territories
             of
             this
             Bailiage
             and
             of
             the
             others
             ,
             are
             not
             near
             so
             good
             as
             that
             of
             Milan
             ,
             to
             which
             it
             joyns
             ;
             yet
             the
             Villages
             of
             this
             Bailiage
             are
             very
             populous
             ;
             the
             Land
             is
             very
             fruitful
             ,
             because
             it
             is
             well
             cultivated
             ;
             and
             all
             the
             Inhabitants
             live
             contented
             and
             well
             ;
             there
             are
             no
             Beggars
             amongst
             them
             ,
             nor
             hardly
             any
             Object
             of
             Misery
             and
             Want
             :
             Their
             Houses
             are
             all
             good
             ,
             well
             built
             ,
             and
             kept
             in
             good
             repair
             .
             The
             Territory
             of
             Milan
             is
             certainly
             one
             of
             the
             best
             in
             all
             Italy
             ;
             it
             produceth
             Wine
             ,
             Corn
             and
             Oyl
             in
             abundance
             ,
             very
             great
             quantity
             of
             Silk
             ,
             and
             (
             generally
             speaking
             )
             all
             sorts
             of
             Fruits
             ;
             there
             is
             also
             excellent
             Pasture
             for
             Cattle
             ,
             and
             yet
             the
             Peasants
             there
             do
             not
             live
             so
             well
             by
             much
             as
             in
             the
             Bailiage
             of
             Lugane
             ;
             for
             there
             is
             a
             great
             deal
             of
             Land
             that
             lyes
             unmanur'd
             ,
             and
             the
             Country
             is
             not
             near
             so
             populous
             as
             in
             Lugane
             .
             There
             can
             be
             no
             other
             Reason
             given
             for
             this
             Difference
             ,
             but
             that
             Milan
             is
             under
             the
             Dominion
             of
             Spain
             :
             That
             the
             People
             are
             loaden
             with
             Imposts
             ,
             Subsidies
             and
             Taxes
             ,
             which
             makes
             them
             very
             poor
             ;
             whereas
             the
             People
             of
             Lugane
             are
             under
             the
             Government
             of
             Switzerland
             ,
             who
             put
             no
             Taxes
             or
             subsidies
             upon
             them
             .
          
        
         
           
             Remarks
             upon
             the
             LAKES
             .
          
           
             I
             Do
             not
             know
             that
             in
             the
             Kingdom
             of
             France
             ,
             as
             it
             was
             thirty
             years
             since
             ,
             there
             were
             any
             Lakes
             ,
             except
             perhaps
             in
             the
             Mountains
             of
             Dauphiné
             .
             From
             the
             Lake
             of
             Iour
             to
             the
             Lake
             of
             Garde
             ,
             which
             is
             at
             Desenesan
             ,
             between
             Bresse
             and
             Veronne
             ,
             in
             the
             Territories
             of
             Venice
             ,
             there
             are
             a
             great
             number
             of
             Lakes
             ;
             one
             of
             the
             most
             considerable
             is
             that
             of
             Geneva
             ;
             then
             there
             is
             the
             Lake
             of
             Newchattel
             ,
             the
             Lake
             d'Yverdun
             ,
             the
             Lake
             of
             Morat
             ,
             the
             Lake
             of
             Bienne
             ,
             the
             Lake
             of
             Quinti
             ,
             the
             Lake
             of
             Lucerne
             ,
             the
             Lake
             of
             Constance
             ,
             the
             Lake
             of
             Valestat
             ,
             and
             many
             others
             in
             the
             Mountains
             of
             Switzerland
             .
             There
             is
             on
             the
             other
             side
             the
             Mountains
             a
             great
             and
             considerable
             Lake
             ,
             called
             Come
             ,
             also
             the
             
             Lake
             of
             Lugane
             ,
             the
             Lake
             Major
             ,
             which
             is
             above
             60
             miles
             long
             ,
             and
             likewise
             the
             Lake
             
               de
               Gard●
            
             :
             All
             these
             Lakes
             are
             replenish'd
             with
             most
             excellent
             Fish
             ,
             and
             particularly
             Trouts
             ;
             but
             in
             the
             Lake
             de
             Garde
             there
             is
             found
             an
             admirable
             Fish
             ,
             called
             Carpion
             ,
             which
             is
             far
             more
             delicate
             than
             either
             Trout
             or
             Salmon
             ,
             but
             they
             are
             not
             so
             great
             ;
             for
             those
             of
             the
             largest
             sise
             do
             not
             weigh
             above
             fifteen
             pounds
             .
             I
             do
             not
             think
             that
             in
             any
             part
             of
             Europe
             there
             are
             so
             many
             fine
             Lakes
             to
             be
             found
             in
             so
             narrow
             a
             Compass
             ,
             as
             those
             which
             I
             have
             here
             mentioned
             .
          
        
         
           
             Concerning
             the
             Dutchy
             of
             FERRARA
             .
          
           
             THe
             
               Duke
               of
               Ferrara
            
             hath
             always
             been
             but
             a
             little
             Prince
             ,
             because
             his
             D●minions
             are
             not
             very
             great
             ;
             yet
             there
             have
             been
             several
             of
             the
             said
             Dukes
             for
             above
             150
             years
             ago
             ,
             and
             since
             ,
             that
             have
             made
             a
             handsome
             Figure
             ,
             and
             held
             a
             considerable
             Rank
             amongst
             the
             
               Princes
               of
               Italy
            
             .
             The
             Country
             was
             formerly
             very
             populous
             ,
             and
             the
             Lands
             being
             fertil
             ,
             and
             well
             cultivated
             ,
             the
             Revenue
             of
             the
             Prince
             were
             considerable
             ,
             and
             he
             kept
             a
             good
             Court.
             But
             since
             that
             Dutchy
             i●
             devolved
             upon
             the
             See
             of
             Rome
             ,
             by
             the
             Death
             of
             the
             last
             Duke
             ,
             who
             dyed
             without
             Issue
             Male
             ,
             the
             Country
             is
             almost
             depopulated
             ;
             the
             most
             part
             of
             the
             Lands
             are
             desolate
             ;
             and
             for
             several
             Years
             last
             past
             the
             Dutchy
             is
             infected
             with
             Diseases
             ,
             purely
             for
             want
             of
             Inhabitants
             .
             There
             wer●
             formerly
             in
             the
             Time
             of
             the
             Dukes
             of
             Ferrara
             ,
             more
             than
             one
             hundred
             thousand
             People
             ,
             and
             at
             present
             there
             are
             not
             15000.
             
             The
             Grass
             grows
             in
             the
             Streets
             and
             most
             of
             the
             Houses
             are
             void
             ,
          
           
             Polesino
             is
             one
             of
             the
             best
             parts
             of
             Italy
             ;
             and
             that
             part
             of
             it
             which
             is
             possessed
             by
             the
             Venetians
             ,
             is
             very
             well
             cultivated
             and
             populous
             ;
             and
             't
             is
             one
             of
             the
             best
             of
             their
             small
             Provinces
             .
             As
             soon
             as
             you
             pafs
             the
             great
             Arm
             of
             the
             River
             Po
             ,
             which
             is
             called
             the
             Lagoscouro
             ,
             which
             separates
             that
             part
             of
             the
             Polesino
             which
             belongs
             to
             the
             Venetians
             ,
             from
             that
             which
             belongs
             to
             the
             Pope
             ;
             although
             the
             Land
             and
             Country
             is
             the
             very
             same
             ,
             yet
             the
             most
             part
             of
             those
             
             Lands
             of
             the
             Polesino
             ,
             which
             belongs
             to
             the
             
               Ecclesiastical
               State
            
             ,
             are
             desolate
             and
             ●ast
             :
             The
             Grass
             lyes
             withered
             and
             rotten
             upon
             the
             ground
             ,
             because
             there
             is
             no
             body
             takes
             care
             to
             mow
             it
             ;
             and
             in
             passing
             through
             great
             Villages
             ,
             you
             'l
             find
             all
             the
             Houses
             abandon'd
             ,
             and
             not
             one
             Inhabitant
             to
             be
             found
             .
             It
             is
             not
             easily
             to
             be
             imagined
             how
             it
             is
             pos●ible
             ,
             that
             a
             Country
             so
             populous
             and
             flouri●hing
             ,
             should
             in
             less
             than
             80
             years
             be
             so
             entirely
             ruined
             and
             dispeopled
             :
             by
             this
             it
             is
             very
             apparent
             ,
             
               that
               no
               Subjects
               are
               so
               unhappy
               ,
               as
               those
               that
               live
               under
               the
               Domination
               of
               the
            
             Clergy
             .
          
        
         
           
             Concerning
             the
             Estates
             of
             BOLOGNIA
             .
          
           
             IF
             the
             Popes
             had
             been
             able
             to
             have
             made
             themselves
             masters
             of
             Bolognia
             ,
             as
             they
             have
             done
             of
             Ferrara
             ,
             they
             would
             thereby
             have
             reduced
             it
             to
             the
             same
             miserable
             condition
             ;
             but
             Bolognia
             hath
             always
             preserved
             their
             Priviledges
             and
             the
             Civil
             Government
             ,
             by
             means
             of
             the
             Gonfalonniers
             ,
             under
             whom
             they
             are
             governed
             ;
             they
             have
             t●e
             right
             of
             sending
             Embassadors
             to
             the
             Pope
             ,
             who
             injoy
             the
             same
             Prerogatives
             as
             do
             the
             Embassadors
             of
             the
             other
             free
             Princes
             and
             States
             :
             The
             P●pe
             cannot
             confiscate
             the
             Goods
             of
             any
             Subject
             of
             B●lognia
             for
             any
             Crime
             whatsoever
             .
             The
             great
             Mischiefs
             which
             too
             frequently
             happen
             here
             ,
             more
             than
             in
             other
             parts
             ,
             are
             Assassinations
             and
             Murthers
             ;
             those
             that
             commit
             them
             fly
             for
             shelter
             to
             some
             of
             the
             Churches
             ,
             as
             to
             an
             inviolable
             Afylum
             ,
             from
             whence
             the
             Legats
             themselves
             cannot
             bring
             them
             to
             be
             punished
             ;
             or
             perhaps
             they
             retire
             into
             the
             Country
             ,
             into
             some
             Strong
             hold
             ,
             or
             into
             the
             Territories
             of
             a
             Neighbouring
             Prince
             ,
             where
             they
             are
             certainly
             secure
             ,
             and
             there
             remain
             until
             the
             Legation
             of
             the
             then
             C●rdinal
             be
             finished
             ,
             and
             afterwards
             make
             an
             agreement
             with
             the
             Successor
             ,
             who
             for
             Money
             pardons
             them
             (
             having
             Power
             so
             to
             do
             )
             all
             the
             Crimes
             and
             Murthers
             they
             have
             committed
             :
             In
             other
             respects
             the
             People
             of
             Bolognia
             are
             very
             happy
             ,
             and
             live
             in
             great
             plenty
             ,
             for
             that
             the
             Country
             is
             mighty
             fruitful
             ;
             and
             they
             pay
             no
             Taxes
             to
             the
             Prince
             .
          
        
         
           
           
             Remarks
             upon
             the
             Country
             of
             the
             
               Great
               Duke
            
             of
             TUSCANY
             .
          
           
             THere
             are
             in
             th●s
             Great
             Dukedom
             three
             considerable
             Cities
             ,
             
               Florence
               ,
               Pisa
            
             ,
             and
             S●enna
             .
             All
             those
             who
             have
             read
             the
             Hist●ry
             of
             Italy
             ,
             do
             know
             ,
             that
             P●sa
             was
             formerly
             a
             very
             powerful
             Commonweal●h
             ,
             that
             it
             flourished
             in
             Trade
             and
             Commerce
             ,
             and
             that
             there
             were
             a
             great
             many
             weal●hy
             Citizens
             belonging
             to
             it
             ;
             there
             needs
             no
             other
             proof
             of
             this
             ,
             than
             what
             we
             read
             ,
             that
             upon
             a
             certain
             occasion
             a
             hundred
             of
             the
             Citizens
             equip'd
             each
             of
             them
             a
             Gally
             at
             their
             own
             Charges
             ,
             whi●h
             they
             maintained
             during
             all
             the
             War.
             The
             great
             Actions
             are
             well
             known
             whi●h
             they
             have
             done
             in
             the
             Levant
             by
             their
             Fl●ets
             ,
             and
             how
             they
             a
             long
             time
             opposed
             the
             Duke
             of
             Floren●e
             ,
             who
             at
             length
             subdued
             them
             by
             the
             Assistance
             of
             the
             Spanish
             Arms.
             
          
           
             Pisa
             is
             one
             of
             the
             largest
             and
             most
             beautiful
             Cities
             of
             Italy
             ;
             the
             Buildings
             are
             stately
             and
             fine
             ;
             &
             so
             is
             one
             of
             their
             Churches
             ,
             which
             with
             its
             Dependencies
             is
             one
             of
             the
             finest
             in
             all
             Italy
             The
             City
             is
             built
             upon
             the
             River
             of
             Arne
             ,
             which
             divides
             it
             in
             the
             midst
             ;
             it
             is
             navigable
             for
             Vessels
             of
             a
             great
             burthen
             ●
             and
             at
             Ligorne
             ,
             which
             is
             twelve
             Miles
             distance
             ,
             it
             falls
             into
             the
             Sea.
             It
             is
             one
             of
             the
             best
             scituated
             Towns
             in
             all
             Italy
             for
             Trade
             ,
             with
             which
             it
             flourished
             extreamly
             whils●
             it
             was
             a
             Republick
             :
             at
             present
             not
             only
             the
             City
             ,
             but
             ●he
             Country
             belonging
             to
             it
             ,
             is
             wholly
             depopulated
             .
             Writers
             say
             ,
             that
             there
             were
             formerly
             above
             one
             hundred
             and
             fifty
             thousand
             Inhabitants
             ,
             whereas
             now
             there
             are
             not
             twelve
             thousand
             .
             The
             Grass
             grows
             in
             most
             of
             the
             Places
             &
             Streets
             of
             the
             City
             ,
             and
             most
             of
             the
             Houses
             are
             deserted
             ,
             and
             lye
             void
             .
             I
             was
             my self
             in
             a
             fair
             large
             Pallace
             which
             was
             let
             for
             six
             Pistoles
             
               per
               annum
            
             ;
             the
             greatest
             part
             of
             their
             Lands
             lye
             wast
             ,
             and
             the
             Air
             is
             very
             unhealthy
             in
             most
             parts
             ,
             because
             of
             the
             small
             number
             of
             Inhabitants
             .
             The
             
               Duke
               of
               Florence
            
             thought
             there
             was
             no
             way
             to
             secure
             himself
             of
             this
             great
             City
             ;
             but
             by
             depopulating
             of
             it
             ,
             and
             ruining
             the
             Trade
             ,
             which
             rendred
             it
             so
             potent
             ,
             so
             that
             at
             present
             there
             is
             not
             any
             Trade
             there
             at
             all
             .
          
           
           
             The
             City
             of
             Sienna
             was
             also
             formerly
             a
             very
             fine
             
               Common
               Wealth
            
             ,
             and
             had
             in
             it
             many
             noble
             ,
             rich
             ,
             and
             powerful
             Families
             ;
             but
             since
             that
             the
             
               Duke
               of
               Florence
            
             hath
             reduced
             it
             to
             his
             Obedience
             ,
             he
             hath
             ruined
             most
             of
             the
             Nobility
             and
             Gentry
             ,
             many
             of
             them
             retiring
             into
             France
             ,
             and
             into
             the
             territories
             of
             some
             of
             the
             Princes
             of
             Italy
             .
          
           
             As
             to
             the
             City
             of
             Florence
             it self
             ,
             it
             is
             extreamly
             decayed
             to
             what
             is
             was
             since
             it
             came
             under
             the
             Government
             of
             the
             House
             of
             Me●icis
             .
             It
             is
             plain
             from
             the
             History
             of
             Machiavil
             ,
             and
             other
             Italian
             Authors
             that
             lived
             in
             those
             times
             ,
             that
             it
             was
             three
             times
             more
             populous
             when
             it
             was
             a
             Republick
             ,
             than
             it
             is
             now
             .
             The
             
               Great
               Duke
            
             keeping
             his
             Court
             and
             residence
             there
             ,
             one
             would
             think
             should
             make
             the
             City
             flourish
             the
             more
             ;
             yet
             it
             wants
             a
             great
             deal
             of
             that
             Luster
             and
             Splendor
             it
             had
             when
             it
             was
             a
             Commonwealth
             .
          
        
         
           
             Remarks
             upon
             the
             
               Temporal
               Government
            
             of
             the
             POPE
             .
          
           
             THere
             are
             certainly
             very
             few
             People
             so
             miserable
             ,
             a●
             those
             who
             live
             under
             the
             Dominion
             of
             the
             Pope
             :
             most
             of
             the
             
               States
               of
               Italy
            
             ,
             and
             where
             there
             are
             the
             most
             Subsidies
             and
             Impositions
             ,
             have
             not
             put
             any
             tax
             upon
             Corn
             and
             Grain
             which
             make
             Bread
             ,
             because
             there
             is
             no
             person
             ,
             tho
             never
             so
             miserable
             ,
             that
             can
             subsist
             without
             it
             ;
             there
             is
             that
             humanity
             and
             regard
             had
             to
             the
             People
             ,
             in
             not
             laying
             Taxes
             upon
             Bread
             ,
             because
             't
             is
             the
             common
             Nourishment
             and
             absolutely
             necessary
             even
             for
             the
             most
             Indigent
             and
             Poor
             ;
             tho
             Impositions
             are
             laid
             without
             scruple
             upon
             Wine
             and
             other
             Merchandises
             ,
             because
             thy
             are
             not
             so
             necessary
             as
             Bread
             yet
             the
             Pope
             makes
             no
             scruple
             to
             lay
             very
             great
             Imposition●
             upon
             Corn
             and
             Bread
             throughout
             all
             his
             Dominions
             ,
             except
             in
             those
             places
             that
             have
             yet
             preserved
             their
             Liberties
             .
             It
             was
             
               Donna
               Olimpia
            
             ,
             that
             during
             the
             Pontificat
             of
             Innocent
             the
             X.
             began
             to
             put
             Taxes
             and
             Imposts
             upon
             Corn
             ,
             and
             made
             such
             Laws
             which
             have
             ruined
             the
             most
             part
             of
             the
             great
             Nobility
             and
             Gentry
             ,
             that
             live
             under
             the
             
               Ecclesiastical
               Government
            
             ,
             who
             had
             their
             revenues
             consisting
             in
             Corn.
             All
             the
             Popes
             who
             have
             reigned
             since
             Innocents
             time
             ,
             have
             found
             
             such
             a
             great
             Advantage
             to
             themselves
             by
             these
             Laws
             of
             
               Donna
               Olympia
            
             ,
             that
             they
             have
             continued
             them
             ever
             since
             ;
             and
             it
             is
             at
             present
             a
             very
             Considerable
             part
             of
             the
             Ecclesiastical
             Revenue
             .
             The
             substance
             of
             which
             said
             Law
             or
             Ordinance
             is
             this
             ,
             
               That
               no
               person
               whatsoever
               is
               suffered
               to
               sell
            
             Corn
             
               to
               any
               Strangers
               ;
               but
               all
               those
               that
               have
               any
               ,
               are
               obliged
               to
               sell
               it
               at
               a
               price
               certain
               to
               the
            
             Ecclesiastical
             Chamber
             ;
             which
             is
             not
             at
             the
             most
             above
             one
             moiety
             o●
             the
             real
             Value
             ;
             and
             then
             the
             
               Ecclesiastical
               Chamber
            
             sells
             it
             again
             at
             double
             the
             price
             In
             Italy
             there
             is
             no
             person
             ,
             either
             in
             City
             or
             Country
             ,
             in
             the
             
               Popes
               Dominions
            
             ,
             who
             is
             permitted
             to
             make
             their
             own
             Bread
             ,
             but
             eve●y
             one
             is
             obliged
             to
             buy
             it
             of
             the
             Bakers
             ,
             who
             are
             appointed
             by
             the
             Chamber
             ;
             in
             each
             Village
             and
             Burrough
             there
             is
             but
             one
             Baker
             Established
             by
             the
             Chamber
             to
             make
             and
             sell
             Bread
             ;
             the
             Baker
             is
             obliged
             to
             take
             the
             Corn
             of
             the
             Chamber
             at
             a
             certain
             price
             ,
             and
             to
             make
             the
             Bread
             of
             such
             a
             quality
             and
             weight
             ,
             and
             to
             sell
             it
             at
             a
             price
             Certain
             .
             In
             the
             great
             Cities
             ,
             as
             at
             Rome
             ,
             there
             are
             Very
             many
             Bakers
             ,
             who
             are
             all
             obliged
             to
             buy
             a
             certain
             quantity
             of
             Corn
             of
             the
             
               Ecclesiastical
               Chamber
            
             for
             a
             whole
             Year
             to
             come
             ,
             which
             they
             pay
             for
             beforehand
             ,
             and
             give
             ten
             Crowns
             the
             Salme
             or
             measure
             ,
             when
             at
             the
             same
             time
             the
             Chamber
             bougt
             it
             of
             the
             particular
             persons
             for
             five
             Crowns
             ,
             at
             the
             beginning
             of
             the
             year
             ,
             all
             the
             Bakers
             are
             obliged
             to
             take
             the
             same
             Quantity
             of
             Corn
             for
             the
             Year
             ensuing
             ,
             altho
             sometimes
             they
             have
             a
             great
             deal
             of
             the
             last
             years
             Corn
             upon
             their
             hands
             ,
             which
             they
             must
             deliver
             to
             the
             Chamber
             for
             five
             Crowns
             the
             Salme
             or
             measure
             ,
             and
             then
             the
             very
             same
             Corn
             is
             sold
             them
             again
             for
             ten
             Crowns
             .
             I
             do
             not
             believe
             that
             there
             is
             any
             Country
             in
             the
             World
             ,
             that
             draws
             more
             profit
             from
             their
             Subjects
             for
             Corn
             ,
             ●●an
             the
             Pope
             doth
             in
             his
             Dominions
             ,
             which
             hath
             been
             partly
             the
             Cause
             of
             the
             ruin
             of
             the
             
               Ecclesiastical
               Estate
            
             ,
             since
             the
             Establishment
             of
             the
             said
             Law
             ,
             which
             was
             about
             thirty
             years
             since
             :
             the
             Country
             is
             unpeopled
             ,
             and
             great
             part
             of
             the
             Lands
             lie
             void
             and
             uncultivated
             ,
             because
             it
             is
             not
             worth
             while
             to
             manure
             them
             ,
             when
             the
             greatest
             advantage
             and
             profit
             ,
             arising
             thereby
             ,
             goes
             to
             the
             Pope
             .
             In
             travelling
             through
             the
             Ecclesiastical
             
             Territories
             in
             Romania
             ,
             and
             between
             Rome
             and
             Naples
             ,
             there
             are
             vast
             quantites
             of
             Land
             unmanured
             .
             A
             Traveller
             passing
             through
             the
             Estate
             of
             a
             
               Roman
               Prince
            
             ,
             told
             the
             Prince
             upon
             his
             return
             to
             
               N●ples
               ,
               he
               would
               if
               he
               pleased
               send
               him
               Husbandm●n
               that
               should
               manure
               his
               Land
            
             ;
             thinking
             that
             it
             had
             been
             for
             want
             of
             Labourers
             that
             the
             Lands
             lay
             yoid
             and
             wast
             .
             The
             Prince
             told
             him
             ,
             
               that
               he
               did
               not
               want
               people
               to
               Cultivate
               his
               Lan●s
               ;
               but
               because
               they
               were
               obliged
               to
               sell
               all
               their
               Corn
               and
               Grain
               to
               the
               Chamber
               at
               a
               Very
               Low
               Price
               ,
               it
               would
               not
               quit
               Cost
               to
               Manure
               and
               Cultivate
               it
               .
            
          
        
         
           
             Touching
             the
             Reduction
             of
             the
             Interest
             of
             mony
             Due
             by
             the
             MONTES
             at
             Rome
             from
             4
             to
             3
             per
             Cent.
             
          
           
             EVery
             body
             almost
             knows
             what
             't
             is
             which
             in
             Italy
             ,
             &
             especially
             at
             Rome
             ,
             they
             call
             the
             Montes
             ;
             it
             it
             is
             much
             like
             the
             Rents
             upon
             the
             Town
             house
             at
             Paris
             .
             The
             Popes
             having
             occasion
             of
             money
             ,
             borrow
             great
             sums
             of
             particular
             Persons
             at
             4
             
               per
               Cent
            
             Interest
             ;
             This
             they
             call
             at
             Rome
             the
             Establishment
             of
             the
             Monte
             ,
             that
             is
             ,
             the
             Creation
             of
             certain
             Officers
             ,
             and
             the
             assignment
             of
             several
             Rents
             for
             the
             payment
             of
             those
             who
             have
             lent
             Mony
             to
             the
             Pope
             .
             The
             present
             Pope
             ,
             finding
             the
             Chamber
             engaged
             to
             the
             annual
             payments
             of
             I
             know
             not
             how
             many
             Millions
             of
             
               Roman
               Crowns
            
             Interest
             ,
             to
             those
             that
             had
             ient
             Money
             upon
             the
             Monte
             ,
             resolved
             in
             part
             to
             reduce
             and
             lessen
             the
             great
             Sum
             of
             Money
             which
             the
             Interest
             amounted
             to
             ,
             and
             having
             for
             this
             purpose
             raised
             several
             Millions
             of
             
               Roman
               Crowns
            
             ,
             he
             acquainted
             those
             that
             had
             money
             upon
             the
             Monte
             ,
             that
             they
             should
             come
             and
             receive
             their
             principal
             money
             ,
             unless
             they
             would
             take
             3
             per
             cent
             Interest
             for
             the
             4
             per
             cent
             which
             they
             formerly
             received
             ;
             w●ereupon
             ,
             there
             being
             really
             no
             Trade
             in
             all
             the
             Ecclesiastical
             Territories
             ,
             and
             the
             Lands
             worth
             nothing
             ,
             and
             that
             the
             Estates
             of
             the
             Nobility
             were
             all
             sold
             to
             a
             penny
             ,
             all
             Persons
             who
             had
             Money
             upon
             the
             Monte
             ,
             not
             knowing
             how
             to
             Imploy
             it
             to
             advantage
             elsewhere
             ,
             let
             it
             there
             remain
             ,
             contenting
             themselves
             with
             three
             
               per
               cen●
            
             instead
             of
             
               four
               per
               cent
            
             ,
             which
             they
             had
             before
             ;
             So
             that
             by
             this
             means
             every
             one
             concerned
             lost
             a
             fourth
             part
             of
             
             their
             yearly
             Income
             ,
             and
             the
             Chamber
             got
             I
             know
             not
             how
             many
             Millions
             of
             Crowns
             yearly
             by
             this
             Retrenchment
             of
             one
             per
             cent
             .
          
           
             It
             is
             almost
             incredible
             the
             Immence
             Sums
             the
             Pope
             hath
             raised
             by
             retrenching
             of
             many
             superf●uous
             Expences
             ,
             and
             extinguishing
             several
             Offices
             to
             which
             great
             Salleries
             were
             payd
             by
             the
             
               Ecclesiastical
               Chamber
            
             ,
             and
             b●
             divers
             other
             means
             .
             Those
             who
             are
             well
             informed
             in
             the●e
             matters
             ,
             do
             for
             certain
             affirm
             ,
             that
             all
             the
             Subsidies
             which
             the
             Pope
             hath
             remitted
             to
             the
             Emperor
             and
             King
             of
             Poland
             ,
             to
             carry
             on
             the
             War
             against
             the
             Turks
             ,
             are
             not
             the
             thirtieth
             part
             of
             the
             Money
             which
             he
             hath
             treasured
             up
             ;
             altho
             likewise
             he
             hath
             pay'd
             many
             Debts
             of
             the
             Chamber
             ,
             which
             were
             not
             chargeable
             upon
             the
             Montes
             .
          
           
             I
             ought
             not
             here
             to
             omit
             relating
             ,
             that
             the
             Inns
             ,
             especially
             in
             Tuscany
             ,
             in
             Romania
             ,
             and
             between
             Rome
             and
             Naples
             ,
             are
             very
             sordid
             and
             incommodious
             ,
             one
             may
             give
             a
             pretty
             good
             guess
             at
             the
             prodigious
             Wealth
             belonging
             to
             the
             Clergy
             in
             the
             
               Kingdom
               of
               Naples
            
             by
             the
             great
             quantity
             of
             plate
             ,
             Vessels
             and
             Statues
             of
             Silver
             in
             the
             Churches
             ;
             and
             by
             the
             riches
             and
             magnificent
             Furniture
             of
             their
             Habitations
             ,
             and
             Vestments
             of
             the
             Priests
             .
             One
             may
             upon
             the
             whole
             matter
             make
             this
             Important
             Reflection
             ,
             that
             if
             the
             King
             of
             Spain
             doth
             not
             think
             of
             some
             expedient
             ,
             to
             hinder
             the
             Clergy
             from
             Increasing
             their
             Estates
             in
             Lands
             ,
             which
             they
             do
             daily
             ,
             they
             will
             in
             a
             very
             little
             time
             become
             Masters
             of
             the
             greatest
             part
             of
             the
             Kingdom
             of
             Naples
             ;
             for
             they
             are
             already
             possessed
             of
             more
             than
             the
             half
             of
             the
             Lands
             of
             that
             Kingdom
             ,
             besides
             the
             other
             vast
             profits
             they
             make
             continually
             under
             pretence
             of
             
               Service
               to
               the
               Church
            
             ,
             for
             their
             
               Masses
               ,
               Buildings
               ,
               Burials
               ,
               Marriages
               ,
               Confessions
               ,
            
             and
             by
             their
             Indulgences
             ,
             and
             the
             Legacies
             left
             them
             by
             Will.
             
          
           
             Tho
             these
             are
             Remarks
             made
             in
             hast
             ▪
             yet
             they
             may
             be
             of
             use
             to
             the
             Author
             .
          
           
             I
             know
             several
             very
             pleasant
             Stories
             of
             the
             Iesuits
             at
             Naples
             .
             The
             
               Prince
               of
               Salerme
            
             gave
             them
             the
             moiety
             of
             a
             great
             House
             which
             he
             had
             at
             Naples
             ,
             and
             thereupon
             an
             Inscription
             was
             engaven
             in
             Capital
             Letters
             upon
             the
             Frontispice
             
             of
             the
             House
             ,
             of
             the
             Donation
             thereof
             given
             to
             the
             Iesuits
             by
             the
             said
             Prince
             ;
             within
             these
             few
             years
             the
             Iesuites
             have
             turn'd
             the
             Heires
             of
             the
             
               Prince
               of
               Sal●rme
            
             out
             of
             possession
             of
             the
             other
             Moiety
             of
             the
             said
             House
             ,
             and
             have
             defaced
             the
             Inscription
             upon
             the
             House
             :
             and
             all
             this
             they
             have
             done
             by
             Colour
             of
             Law
             and
             Justice
             .
             Upon
             the
             first
             Establishment
             of
             the
             Society
             of
             Iesuits
             ,
             the
             Carthusians
             of
             Naples
             ,
             who
             are
             very
             rich
             ,
             voluntarily
             assigned
             them
             a
             yearly
             Pension
             of
             several
             thousand
             Ducats
             ;
             but
             the
             Carthusians
             perceiving
             that
             of
             late
             years
             several
             of
             the
             Iesuits
             were
             grown
             mighty
             rich
             ,
             resolved
             to
             withdraw
             the
             said
             Pension
             ;
             the
             Iesuites
             hereupon
             went
             to
             Law
             with
             them
             ,
             and
             obtained
             Sentence
             ,
             that
             the
             said
             Pension
             should
             be
             continued
             .
             The
             Iesuits
             have
             got
             a
             very
             considerable
             part
             of
             the
             Lands
             of
             the
             Nobility
             in
             the
             
               Kingdom
               of
               Naples
            
             .
             All
             the
             Religious
             ,
             of
             what
             Order
             soever
             they
             be
             ,
             who
             have
             Houses
             at
             Naples
             ,
             have
             the
             Priviledge
             of
             purchasing
             all
             Houses
             that
             are
             contiguous
             to
             them
             on
             the
             one
             side
             or
             the
             other
             to
             the
             very
             end
             of
             the
             Street
             ,
             in
             order
             to
             make
             their
             Houses
             entire
             and
             to
             stand
             alone
             like
             an
             Island
             ;
             and
             for
             this
             purpose
             they
             have
             no
             more
             to
             do
             ,
             than
             only
             pay
             the
             Proprietor
             for
             his
             House
             ,
             not
             according
             to
             the
             present
             Value
             ,
             but
             as
             it
             was
             last
             sold
             ,
             perhaps
             50
             ,
             60
             ,
             or
             100
             years
             ago
             ,
             and
             so
             hath
             descended
             from
             Father
             to
             Son
             successively
             to
             the
             person
             then
             in
             possession
             .
          
           
             Many
             other
             very
             considerable
             Remarks
             might
             be
             made
             of
             the
             divers
             Triks
             and
             Methods
             the
             Clergy
             of
             this
             Kingdom
             make
             use
             of
             to
             wheed●e
             and
             trapan
             the
             Laity
             out
             of
             thei●
             Estates
             .
          
        
         
           FINIS