March, 1936
I Circular
RBW7
AB
SPC
v.1936
FTNE
VENT STRONG
Mar.
3 1931
EXTENSION SERVIOE BMA
CLOTHING
CLUB WORK
PATTERN
CITY
IHIL EM
EEEE
STEENBOCK MEMORIAL LIBRARY
UNIVERSITY OF WISCONSIN-
MADISON
550 BABCOCK DRIVE
MADISON, WI 53706-1293
. Outline of Projects 1 and 2.
Extension Service of the College of Agriculture
The University of Wisconsin, Madison


4-H Clothing Club Work
N VERY GIRL should be interested in making herself attrac-
K tive. Styles change and 4-H girls should be aware of these
changes. Knowledge of beauty in line, color, design and
workmanship cannot help but bring satisfaction to any girl who
desires to be well dressed.
The 4-H girl who chooses clothing for her project is taking an
interest in an art which will always be helpful to her. The clothing
requirements are planned so that a girl not only learns clothing con-
struction but also the principles of good design whether it be of a
towel or a dress. The first year project teaches the details of funda-
mental construction. In the second year the 4-H girl makes gar-
ments for herself applying the principles learned in Project I.
A person inconspicuously well dressed gains poise and con-
fidence in herself.
Equipping the Work Box
Every girl enrolled in the first year terial. Without a thimble our fingers
clothing project should first of all equip soon become so sore that it is impossible
a work box. Almost any fair sized box to sew.
is good for a sewing box. A strong
Thimbles—Some of the cheap ones
candy or stationery box or a small
are made of bone, celluloid, and alum-
wooden or metal box may be used.
inum. After we have used these thim-
Here are the things every girl needs bles a long time, they may become rough.
in her workbox: thimble; package of They should be thrown away then for
needles, 5 to 10 sharps; pins number they may catch the threads of the ma-
BB; tape line, 60 inches in length (with terial and ruin the appearance of the
numbers on both sides and a number 1 cloth. Silver thimbles are best for long
at each end); white thread numbers 40 continued use.
to 90; emery bag; small pin cushion or
Needles—There are many kinds of
box; and a pair of sharp shears with
not less than a three-inch cutting blade.
needles and each has its own particular
use. The size depends upon the kind
We can find most of these tools for our
of material, and it is always wise to
workbox right at home.
use the very finest needle possible. These
The thimble is the first thing on our
are some of the kinds we will use:
list. It is always worn on the middle
finger of the right hand and should fit “Sharps" No. 8 or No. 9 for ordin-
snugly enough so that it will not fallary hand sewing; "Sharps" No. 7 for
off while we are working, but it should basting, or if you prefer longer needles,
not be so tight that our finger tip gets use “Milliners" No. 7 to No. 9; “Be-
numb. It is a good thing to put it on tweens” No. 7 to No. 9 for fine hand
the first thing when we sit down to sew. sewing and for buttonholes, for these
We will soon get so used to it that we needles are short and fine and do no
do not notice it and it is very helpful bend or break easily; "Crewel” needles
in pushing the needle through the ma- with a long eye for embroidery.
-2-


Needles that are bent, rusty, or blunt- sewing thread, but it is strong enough
ed should always be thrown away. They for basting and is much cheaper than
are hard to sew with and may pull the the regular thread. For most of the
threads of the material. The rusty sewing we are to do, in this circular,
needles may also leave stains. Leaving we will use number 70. If we buy
the needle in the material is dangerous thread with raised numbers on the spool
because the needles may rust and spot when paper tags come off it is still
the cloth.
possible to tell size of thread.
Emery bag—The emery bag is in- Shears or scissors The difference be-
cluded in the workbox because needles tween the two is in the shape of the
that are thrust into it often keep sharp handles. Shears may be used for al-
and shining. Use it often.
most all cutting. They have a place
Pins-Fine pins, about an inch long, for the thumb and three fingers while
are used by most dressmakers. They scissors have a place for the thumb and
may be bought in paper packages or in one finger. Scissors should be used only
boxes. Those in boxes are called “dress- for light cutting such as trimming seams
maker” pins, and when many are to be and clipping threads. Buy a good pair
used, it is cheaper to buy them in this of shears of guaranteed make and with
form. In buying pins, be sure to see at least a 3-inch cutting blade. (Left
that the points are sharp, because a blunt handed people can buy shears made es-
pin, like a blunt needle, may pull the pecially for them.)
threads of the material.
In holding shears place the thumb in
Pin cushion or box-After pins are one handle, the last three fingers in the
once taken out of a paper, we need other handle and hold the first or index
some way of keeping them. A box or finger around the outside of the handle.
pin cushion is best and is one of the Cut with long firm slashes which leave
most used tools in the workbox. When no jagged edges.
a box is used, it is a good plan to keep K eep the shears sharp and do not use
a rubber band around it so the top will them for cutting anything but cloth.
not come off and spill the pins in the When shears are not in use, insert a cork
sewing box or on the floor.
at the tip to prevent the points from
Tape lines—The tape line that we se- being broken or from sticking into a
lect will need to be made of some garment or sewing bag.
material that wears well, because we Measuring gauge-A cardboard gauge
will use it often. Paper tape lines tear is very useful in marking accurate hems,
easily, so those made of sateen, cambric, and tucks.
or oil cloth with metal ends are best.
Sixty inches is the length that we all
Judging and Scoring
find most useful. The tape measure that At the end of each project three ques-
we can use most easily is numbered on tions are listed merely to give you an
both sides and has a “1” at each end. idea of the points to consider when
Use tape measure frequently, for accu- judging and scoring articles. Read
rate measurements are necessary for them carefully before starting project.
good work.
All clothing members should bring com-
Thread-Several sizes of thread are pleted articles to project meeting and
handy in the work box. For basting, do the judging and scoring themselves
we will want white basting thread No. with suggestions from the club leader.
60, which comes on a large spool. This Learn to use the score card; it will
thread is not so strong as the regular help you improve your work. In proj-
—3—


14. Stitch across the holder diagonally
from one corner to another or straight
across from one side to another to hold
lining in place. A straight line for
stitching may be marked using a ruler
and a pin in place of a pencil. (See
fig. 5.)
sees.ee.........
15. To fasten threads firmly and neat-
ly reverse and double stitch 1/2 inch at
beginning and end of stitching.
16. Remove bastings and press.
FIG. 5
Questions
1. Is the holder of the correct thickness to prevent heat from penetrat-
ing and yet not clumsy and stiff ?
2. Stitching—Is it straight? Tension regulated correctly? Stitch cor-
rect length?
3. Is the material washable?
Use Score Card p. 7
Demonstrations
1. Correct posture at machine.
2. How to make a neat corner on a holder and sew on the hanger.
3. Selecting the correct size and color of thread for holder.
Laundry Bag, Garment Protector, or Shoulder Protector
Learning to stitch seams. The problem is much the same for all
three articles. This project is also planned to teach the 4-H girl to
care for her own clothing.
Laundry Bag
Pattern
A good size for individual use is 18
Make a bag that is simple and easily inches by 30 inches. For this size it will
laundered for either personal or family be economical to buy material 36 inches
use. A laundry bag that is very decora- wide. One for family use should be
tive is not in good taste.
Both the hanger and draw string type
considerably larger. A good proportion
are good, however, directions will be is to have the width of the bag equal
given for only the hanger bag.
3/5 or 2/3 of the length.
ha acom
we sur either personal or family
-10


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Wwwmmmm
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тор
Cut on this
Center Fold
Stitching
1 from
Center
BOTTOM
This same
type of laun-
dry bag may
be made by
folding the ma-
SNAPS
terial length-
wise bringing
the selvages to
center front
and lapping
them about 1
inch.
"HEM
A 12
inch sea m
is then taken from one end to
within 12 inches of opopsite end.
The seam is pressed open and a
hem made from the end of the
stitching to the top of the bag.
The curve is then cut across the
top to correspond with the curve
of the 'hanger. No facing is needed.
30"
D's'diag 12
Laundry Bag
FIG. 6
Laundry Bag With Opening at Bottom
The older girl who has had considera- longer than the front. This hem should
able sewing experience may want to make be of a size that will make the flap the
an opening at the bottom of the bagsame width as the bag.
where the laundry can be removed. 6. Baste and stitch /2 inch hem across
Steps in Making
end of flap.
1. The same pattern as given above 7. Sew on 5 snap fasteners to hold
is used except that the front and back flap in place, using buttonhole stitch. The
are cut separately and front of bag is thread is fastened securely under the
5 inches longer and back of bag 512 snap and then the needle is brought up
inches longer.
from the wrong side part way through
2. The opening is faced as in above
the hole. Wrap the double thread from
directions.
the eye of the needle around the point
from right to left, bring the needle
3. Turn under raw edge 14 inch across
through the eye of the snap and pull it
bottom of the front section. Baste in
out until the knot or "purl" is on the
a 5-inch hem and stitch.
edge of the snap. Continue working
4. Baste and stitch seams on two sides from the right to left until each
and across top of bag.
eye is securely fastened. Be sure that
5. Baste small hem on the two sides the two parts of the snap are opposite
of the back flap which is now 574 inches each other on the hems.
-12–


Questions
1. Will the protector or bag stand frequent laundering?
2. Have the seams been finished so that they will not fray?
3. Have fasteners been sewed on neatly with button hole stitch? Does
the knot of the stitch come to the outside edge of the snap?
Use Score Card on page 16
Demonstrations
1. How to apply a facing.
2. How to make a French, overcast and self-stitched seam.
3. Sewing on fasteners with button hole stitch.
Simple Wash Dress
To select material and to make a simple linen or cotton dress
that is suited to the girl for home or school wear. .
Pattern
with lengthwise threads to prevent
Select a very simple, up-to-date com stretching out of place.
mercial pattern that is the correct size 3. Gingham, print, percale, Indian
for your bust and hip measurements. head, poplin, broadcloth, Seersucker,
For your first dress select a pattern pique and non-crush linen are serviceable,
with a simple sleeve. Some kimono and practical and suitable for a home or
cap sleeves are attractive and a raglan school dress. Each season brings new
sleeve gives a graceful line as well as and interesting material, but be sure that
freedom of movement. A set-in sleeve it meets the above requirements before
is a part of the second year project. purchasing.
Material
4. Soft cool colors are best for sum-
1. Materials for a wash dress should
mer and designs that are rather small
be fine yet durable, color-fast, easily
are usually more appropriate. Plain
laundered, reasonable in cost, and suited
colors, checks, stripes, small plaids, geo-
to the pattern as well as to home or
metric or small floral designs are usual-
school wear.
ly in good taste. If plaids are used they
2. If the material has not been san-
should be matched. Remember too gaudy
forized it should be shrunk before mak-
colors and designs take from the attrac-
ing.
tiveness of the girl herself. Consider
your own coloring and personality as
The following method may be used:
well as the accessories which you have on
a. Leave material folded and soak
hand when buying materials.
until entirely saturated or about
fifteen minutes in slightly warmed Trimmings
water.
The same material as the dress in con-
b. Hang on clothes line with center trasting color, fine cotton or mercerizecho
crease on line. Pin so that the bias tape, buttons and buckles that are
threads remain straight.
not too heavy and bulky, and simple
C. Iron when almost dry. Press decorative stitches may be used.
-14


TUNUM
MIMI
muMWIL
Questions
Was the collar made so that there are no raw edges showing ?
2. Can it be easily detached from the dress?
3. Does it fit smoothly?
Use Score Card on page 16
1.
1
2.
Demonstrations
The effect of various necklines on different faces.
Selecting a design and color that is appropriate to the dress with
which the collar is to be worn.
How to make a pattern of a collar.
3.
Slip
To make a slip that fits smoothly with no extra fullness, yet one
which allows for freedom in walking and has shoulder straps that
stay in place.
2. The material should be durable so
that it will stand frequent laundering.
It should be free from sizing. When a
heavily starched material is rubbed be-
tween the hands starch will be loosened
and show on the fingers.
Design
1. A built-up or semi-built-up neck-
line is comforable because the straps
stay in place. The back line may be
straight or built up.
2. A straight line slip is best because
it is not as apt to twist around the body
as the bias cut slip.
3. It should fit closely and smoothly
at the hips, waist line and bust yet be
wide enough at the hem line to allow
freedom in walking as well as in active
sports. Darts at the waist line will take
care of extra fullness.
4. A commercial pattern should be
altered to meet these requirements.
(See Fig. 9.)
3. White nainsook, batiste, zephyr
gingham is excellent and long cloth
are suitable. Other materials which
meet the above requirements may be
used.
Material
1. A smooth, fine, light to medium
weight cotton material is suggested for
the slip.
4. If the material has not been pre-
shrunk or sanforized it should be shrunk
before it is made up to insure an ex-
cellent fit.
The method may be used as described
on page 14.
-18%


Score Card
mngs ............
.10
......
Materials Used, including trimmings
Hygienic aspects ........
............
Durability of materials ....................... .....................10
Laundering qualities
--------....10
Workmanship ................
Choice and neatness of seams, hems, finishes, etc. ............15
Perfection of stitching (hand or machine) .....................
Design
...... 20
Suitability .........
.............
Protection and modesty
Comfort
Beauty in line and color .............
Originality
General Appearance .......
Cleanliness
Pressing
.................
Relation of Garment Value to Cost in Time and Money ............
ener
.............
en
......
Total score
Wash Dress for School or Blouse and Skirt or Blouse and Jumper
To make a dress for school which will best meet your needs and
which is attractive yet simple in design.
Design
Material
1. Select an up-to-date commercial 1. Cotton and linen are suggested. If
pattern which is simple in design. you have done a considerable amount of
2. The style should be suited to your sewing you may make the skirt and
figure and personality.
jumper of woolen material.
3. Tailored garments are suited to 2. Colors that do not show soil are
sport and active wear for which this especially good for school wear. Large
garment is intended.
plaids must be matched at the seams.
4. Choose a design with simple trim- Small figures, checks, stripes and plain
mings which are easily laundered and colors are good. Large conspicuous de-
will remain attractive after considerable signs and colors are not in good taste
amount of wear. Buttons and buckles for school wear.
may be used effectively if they are not 3. Gingham, print, pique, seersucker
too heavy and bulky.
in fast color and of a durable quality are
5. Remember that simple, beautifully suitable for school wear.
made tailored dresses when commercially 4. If wool is used select material that
made are more expensive than the fussy is firmly woven. A mixture of wool and
cotton does not wear as well as all wool,
ones.
-20%