USE AND CARE i UNIVERSITY OF VIRGINIA LIBRARY I I I I II U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE FEDERAL EXTENSION SERVICE PA-701 HOW TO TEACH SEWING MACHINE USE AND CARE STEP 1 - How to sit and run a sewing machine - 1-2 STEP 2 - How to guide fabric - 3-4 STEP 3 - How to stitch - 5-7 STEP 4 - How to thread sewing machine - bobbin and bobbin case - 8-10 STEP 5 - How to thread sewing machine - upper threading - 11-12 STEP 6 - How to strengthen seams with backstitching - 13-15 STEP 7 - How to regulate stitch length - 16-17 STEP 8 - How to stitch corners and curves - 18 STEP 9 - How to test the stitch for tension - 19-20 STEP 10- How to take care of your sewing machine - remove dust and lint often 21-22 STEP 11- How to take care of your sewing machine - where to oil inside face plate and bobbin case - 23-24 STEP 12- How to take care of your sewing machine - where to oil underneath and on top - 25-26 STEP 13- How to clean up machine after oiling - 27 STEP 14- How to change a needle - 28-29 FOR THE INSTRUCTOR - More about sewing machine needles 30 FOR THE INSTRUCTOR - What to check if the sewing machine does not sew - 31-33 Threading Charts for different sewing machines - 34-49 This publication was prepared by a committee headed by Alice Linn, Clothing Specialist, Home Economics Division, Federal Extension Service, In cooperation with The Singer Company. Illustration credits) top, page 3, courtesy Utah State Extension Service; bottom, page 19, FES. All other illustrations are furnished by The Singer Company as a public service, and are copyrighted by the Singer Company. The use of commercial names does not constitute on endorsement of a product by the Department of Agriculture to the exclusion of other products which may be suitable. STEP 1 HOW TO SIT AT AND RUN A SEWING MACHINE DO THESE THINGS BEFORE YOU BEGIN TO TEACH Open sewing machine . Set length of stitch at 12 Do not thread machine Have the presser foot up INSTRUCTOR SHOWS: 1. HOW TO SIT AT THE MACHINE Body centered with needle . Feet flat on floor Sit back on chair or stool Lean forward slightly, back straight, arms resting lightly on table "Sitting right helps you sew better and keeps you from getting tired." 2. HOW TO RUN A SEWING MACHINE Show how to start machine How to put "hands down" for safety How to keep an even speed How to stop 2. How to lower the needle into the fabric near the end of the seam. 3. How to lower the presser foot. 4. How to start stitching and to run machine slowly while guiding seam edge against seam guide. 5. How to stop machine near end of seam. 6. How to turn hand wheel to bring needle out of fabric and takeup lever to its highest point. 7. How to raise presser foot. Then remove seam by gently pulling material back. Keep needle thread between toes of presser foot. Remove material. Bring take-up lever up. Raise presser foot. 2. How to strengthen seam end when machine does not backstitch . Tie threads or Start at seam edge, stitch 1/2". . Start again at seam edge without breaking the threads. . Do the same at the end of the seam. STUDENTS DO: Make seams with backstitching at start and end. "FORM THE HABIT OF DOING THINGS RIGHT. THEN YOU DO THEM WITHOUT THINKING ABOUT THE NEXT STEP." - 15 - STEP 7 HOW TO REGULATE STITCH LENGTH DO THESE THINGS BEFORE YOU BEGIN TO TEACH Student threads sewing machine . Give student 2 pieces fabric for practice INSTRUCTOR TELLS AND SHOWS: 1. Most sewing machines have numbers on the stitch regulator. . Numbers such as 6, 8, 10, 12, and 20 mean the number of stitches in one inch. . The larger numbers are for shorter stitches. The smaller numbers are for longer stitches. Stitch on fabric to show what you have told your student. Measure and mark 1 inch, and count the stitches. 2. A 12 stitch length is used for most things you will sew - 15 stitch is used for lightweight fabrics. 10 stitch is used for heavy fabrics. . 6 stitch is used for sewing machine basting. 3. How to change stitch length on different kinds of sewing machines. . Turn thumb screw or thumb nut to left to loosen... Move lever to number for stitch length...Tighten screw. - 16 - WHAT TO CHECK IF THE SEWING MACHINE DOES NOT SEW 1. If the machine runs but will not make a stitch - Check the threading - Thread guides, tension or take-up lever may not have been threaded in the proper order. —The needle may not have been threaded in the right direction. If the needle has not been threaded in the right direction, the machine will not form a stitch and the top thread will loon and break. —The bobbin may not have been put in with the thread pulling off in the right direction. —The thread may not be under the bobbin tension. —If the needle has not been put into the machine with the long groove in the right direction, the machine will not form a stitch and the top thread will loop or break. 2. If the machine runs but makes a loose stitch with loops underneath - Check the threading of the tension - Thread sometimes gets behind the tension discs instead of between them. Make sure the thread passes under the fine wire spring, called "take-up spring," at the tension. Check the bobbin - the thread may be pulling off the bobbin verv hard or heavy. A bent bobbin will not turn freely in the bobbin case. It will cause the bobbin thread to draw. Check the bobbin case - A machine with a removable bobbin case will make thread loops and loose stitches if the bobbin case is not put in right and the thread catches on the latch of the case. 3. If the hand wheel will not turn and the needle will not go up and down - Check the bobbin case area for tangled thread - To free the machine and make the needle come up, force the hand wheel back (away from vou). This backward force will usually break or cut the threads that are iammed in the bobbin case area. Remove all the thread pieces before you try to stitch, otherwise another thread jam will form. - 31 -