GOODWIN'S
VOURSE IN SEWING
FO
ERGS
UC-NRLF
B 4 583 BLO
Воок и
9L9HE TA
NK D. BEATTYS COMPANY


III. TOWEL, HEMSTITCHED AND MARKED WITH
INITIAL
Materials.-Huckaback
toweling, preferably
of linen; mercerized
marking cotton of
same color.
Hemstitch in any
form preferred, and
mark with initial, as
shown in Fig. 8.
AG
To mark with initial.-
Fig. 8.— MARKING INITIALS.
Draw outline of let-
ter required and fill the center with catch-stitching, as shown in
letter A, Fig. 8. With each stitch the point of the needle
comes out where it went in for the preceding stitch. Finish
the edge with outline-stitch, as shown in letter G, Fig. 8.
Choice may be made of other forms of marking initials, such as
cross-stitching to form the letters, or chain or rope-stitching for
outline, with darning-stitches for filling in.


The ruffles may be left plainly hemmed or finished with narrow
hems and an edging of lace if preferred. About three yards of lace
is required for the two ruffles.
Fig. 19.-Sewing On Ruffle, Using Edge of GARMENT TO Finish Seam.
Gather the ruffles and sew to the drawers portions, allowing the
edge of these portions to extend j inch beyond the edge of the
ruffles. Fold the extended edge over and hem down in line with
the seam.
I
Fig. 20.-SEWING ON RUFFLE UNDER A Tuck.
21


To set in embroidery.—Trim the edges of the inserting even, allowing
sufficient material to form a narrow French felled seam. About
inch is sufficient in fine materials. The seaming may be done
by hand with fine running or combination stitches, or by
machine.
The same method is employed to set in the narrow seam bead-
ings, or veinings, with which seams are joined in fine white work.
In the case of gathered edges, the plain material at the edge of the
embroidery is left wide enough to form a binding over the seam, as
in sewing on ruffle, shown in Fig. 19.

Fig. 27.—Bias Band with PIPING AT Edges.
Bias bands.—Trimmings for linens, ginghams and other washable
fabrics may be made effectively from bias bands, plain or with
pipings of contrasting color.
Cut the bands exactly even, and cut twice the length for the pip-
ing, also bias, from to 1 inch in width, according to the width
of edge shown. Fold the piping double, and baste on the right side
of the band with the raw edges even with the edge of the band.
Turn the seam to the wrong side and baste the band carefully to
the garment, as shown in Fig. 27. Use a card marker for spacing
the bands, as in folding tucks or hems..
26


word
(Note: In marking notches, etc., a cross-stitch or a short line of run-
ning-stitches will be found to repay the trouble, as it is much
easier to put the markings in when cutting out than to measure
up the half-made garment to find the correct positions.)
Cut a strip 2 inches wide and 18 inches long, lengthwise of the
cloth, for the binding
of the placket.
If the petticoat is
to be made with
flounce, as shown in
Fig. 29, cut the upper
portion to the line of
perforations 9 inches
from the bottom of
the pattern. If to be
made plain, cut the full
length of the pattern,
which allows 3 inches
for hemming, indi-
cated by the line of
perforations 3 inches
from the bottom.
Cut the flounce
crosswise of the cloth,
9 inches deep and 3
Fig. 33.-FlounCE ATTACHED with Bias BAND.
yards in width.
Cut the bias band to finish the top of the flounce, I inches wide
and 2 yards long.

Cro
To make the petticoat.— Join the gores of the skirt according to the
notches and finish with flat felled seams. Close the center
back seam to the double perforation (..), which indicates the
placket opening, as shown in Fig. 18.
31


To make the sacque.—Baste together the under-arm and shoulder
seams and try on the sacque. Pin the front edges together in a
straight line and cut off the material which extends beyond this
center front line. Make any necessary alteration at shoulder or
under-arm seams. Sew the seams by hand with combination
stitch or by machine. Trim off to 1 inch in width and overcast
the edges together. If lawn or dimity is used, the seams may
be French felled.
Place the two portions of the collar together, right sides out, and
baste around the edges and through the middle. Sew the right side
of the collar to the inside of the neck edge of the sacque with the
front edges even. Hem the underfacing of the collar over this seam
on the right side.
Fold the ribbon double and crease through the middle. Begin
at a corner where the joining will not show and baste to the sacque
with the raw edge of the cloth even with the crease in the ribbon.
Continue the ribbon up the front and around the edge of the collar.
Attach the ribbon for ties at the neck, slipping the end under the
edge of the binding ribbon. Catch-stitch the ribbon to the sacque,
taking one stitch through both edges of the ribbon and one above
the edge of the ribbon through the material.
The plain band of material may be catch-stitched in same man-
ner as the ribbon, or the turned-in edges stitched by machine.
Finish the seams of the sleeves, and gather between the perfora-
tions (..), at top and bottom edges. Baste the cuff portions to-
gether in same manner as the collar, and bind the turned-over edge
and the ends with the ribbon. Place the cuff with the right side to
the right side of the sleeve and the notch in the upper edge of the
cuff at the seam inside of the sleeve. Allow the ends of the cuff to
meet at the notch in the back of the sleeve. Sew to the sleeve and
hem the inside edge of the cuff over the seam. Turn the cuff back
at the line of perforations and oversew the ends together on the in-
side to the point of turning.