FO
ENAS
GOODWIN'S
COURSE IN SEWING
UC-NRLF
B 4 583 659



COLOR
Va
GLO
LATINITATE
HENSIS S
IFORNIA
SACAL
RADUZ2221
CRSITATIS
FIAT
ON
EX LIBRIS
IR IRENA
UNIVED
270
W
SIGILI


Cs
COPYRIGHT, 1910
BY
Emma E. Goodwin
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Winter
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Bomber


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INTRODUCTORY NOTE
Book 2
more
The model articles given in this, the second book of “Good-
win's Course in Sewing,” are designed to be of practical utility and
to introduce various materials and methods leading systematically
to the construction of completed garments. While the materials
suitable for the articles shown are designated, a choice of color or
fabric may afford an exercise for the taste and judgment of the
pupils.
The drafting of garments properly belongs to a more advanced
technical course, and will be much more readily and intelligently
acquired when the method of putting the garments together has
been thoroughly mastered. The miniature patterns accompanying
this book were designed especially by The McCall Company of
New York, and are uniform with full-sized patterns. This makes
it possible for the work to progress from grade to grade and prove
essential to the completion of the course, at the same time giving by
diagram and description the directions for cutting out and putting
together of garments applicable to those the pupils may make for
their own wear.
Accuracy in the preparation of the work is of prime importance.
The frequent use of the tape-measure is insisted upon, as all dimen-
sions for the articles made are to be measured by the pupils.
The correct position for sewing should never be forgotten. The
tools used in the handicraft should have continued attention, and
scissors, thimbles, needles, pins, thread, tape-measure, etc., should
be kept in proper order in work-box or bag. Each article should be
completed in the best manner possible before the next is undertaken.
Thoroughness and order should characterize the practice, which in
the end bring a pleasing facility in the work.
E. E. G.


I. STOCKING DARNING
Materials.—Stockinet 3x3 inches; square of cardboard 4x4
inches, long-eyed darning needles and darning cotton of con-
trasting colors, for practice.
Baste the stockinet firmly to the cardboard, with the wrong side
out. Use darning cotton without knotting.
Darning for thin place.- Begin at the lower right side and work
upward, running the stitches
in the direction of the ribs
of the stockinet.
Take six or seven stitches,
the first one under and the next
one over the threads of the
stockinet.
Turn at the top and run
parallel stitches back, taking up
the threads of the stockinet that
were passed over in the first
row of stitches.
Run one more stitch at top
and bottom in this second row,..
Fig. 1.-DARNING FOR Thin PLACE.
and continue to increase - the
length of the rows at top and bottom until near the center of the
darn.
Run three or four rows of the same length and then decrease
to the length of the rows at beginning.

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III. WORK-BAG

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Fig. 5.-WORK-BAG, Finished.
Materials.-Dark-colored gingham or print, two pieces 10 X 197
inches, cut crosswise of the warp; one piece 31 x 41 inches, for
pocket, cut lengthwise of the warp; one piece 10 x 10 inches, for
bottom of bag; two tapes 11 yards each.
(Note: Pin all edges evenly together before sewing.
From 1 to 1 inch seams are usually taken in wash goods.
To cut lengthwise of the cloth, follow the warp threads.
To cut crosswise, follow the woof threads.
To cut bias, follow across both warp and woof threads, a diag-
onal line, which is found by laying the warp threads parallel with
the woof and creasing the fold.)
II .


Making.–Baste the shorter edges of the first two pieces together.
Measure 31 inches from the end which is to be the top of the bag.
Sew with half back-stitches and overcast the seams. Finish
the four short edges above the side seams with narrow hems.
Finish the two top edges with 1į inch hems. Place a line of run-
ning-stitches ] inch above the hemming to form casings for the
tapes.
Baste į inch fold around the edges of the pocket. Finish one of
the shorter sides with inch hem. Find the place for the pocket
in the center of one side of the top portion of the bag by folding
across the length and width of the bag. Pin and baste the pocket
with wrong side against the inside of the bag portion, and with the
hemmed edge toward the finished top of the bag. Oversew the
sides and bottom of the pocket to the bag.
The pocket is to be used for the thimble, needle-book, emery-
bag, etc.
Fold the bottom portion of the bag and mark the middle of each
side. Fold and mark each side of the top portion in four divisions.
Place the right sides of these portions together with the seams of the
top in the middle of opposite sides of the bottom. Place the quarter
divisions of the top at the corners of the bottom, and the middle divi-
sions of the top at the middle of the sides of the bottom. Baste
together, back-stitch and overcast the seam. Remove bastings and
turn bag right side out.
Initials for marking bag.–Draw an outline of the required letters.
Place this outline over the center of that portion of the bag
opposite the pocket, with a piece of tracing paper next to the
cloth. Baste around the design to hold in place. Trace the
outline of the letters. Work in chain-stitch with marking cotton
of suitable color.
Run tapes both ways through the casing in the top, bringing
the ends out at the opposite sides.
12


be had. The floss should be split as fine as can be used and should
match the cloth as closely as possible. Follow the previous in-
structions for pressing.
When darning a tear in heavy cloth, stitches should be taken
from the wrong side with fine silk thread. Pass the needle halfway
between the surfaces of the cloth to about 1 inch each side of the
edges of the tear. Draw the edges close together. Brush up the
nap on the right side of the cloth and press.
Fig. 20.-Interlaced SEAM for Darning Tear OR JOIning Edges of Heavy Cloth.
The edges of very closely woven heavy cloth may be joined, or a
tear may be mended, by taking stitches up through first one edge
and then the other, making an interlaced seam. Be careful to take
fine, even stitches and draw the edges close together.


IX. BUTTONHOLES, LOOPS AND HOOKS
Materials.—White muslin prac-
tice piece 4 x 7 inches, No. 8
needle and No. 40 colored
thread.
Turn 1 inch fold around the
edges of the muslin. Fold length-
wise, with the raw edges inside,
and run the edges together.
MONO
MAAL
1000VND
cause
Practice in making buttonhole-
stitch.-Knot the thread and
begin at a lower right corner of
one of the short edges. Take
one stitch through the edge
to secure the thread.
Put the needle halfway through
from the under side, inch from
the edge and tinch to the left of
the first stitch.
Bring the double thread from
the eye of the needle, toward the
left, under the point of the needle.
Pull the needle through, bring-
ing the thread out through the
loop, at right angles to the edge.
MATE
FIG. 21.- MODEL OF BUTTONHOLES AND LOOPS.
Fig. 21.- Model of BUTTONHOLES and Loops.
28


Work across both ends of the muslin piece, taking care to keep
the stitches even. Draw the thread smooth.
m
To make buttonhole.—Begin į inch from the straight edge of the
muslin piece and cut an opening 1 inch long, following the
threads of the cloth. .
Use No. 9 needle and No. 70 cotton thread for overcasting.
Begin at the end farther from the edge, which will be called the
lower end of the buttonhole.
Overcast around the edges of the opening with small, even
-stitches f inch apart, taking up about four threads of the
muslin.
Take three stitches in fan shape around the upper end of the
buttonhole. (The end nearest the edge of practice piece.)
When the other side is overcast, return the opposite way, making
cross-stitches over the first stitches to the point of beginning. (See
buttonhole A in Fig. 21.)
For working the buttonhole, use No. 8 needle and No. 40
colored thread.
Without a knot, run the thread for the space of 1 inch between
the edges of the muslin on one side of the buttonhole, back to the
lower end, and bring it out at the edge of the buttonhole. Always
work from right to left.
Draw the thread through until the end is under the cloth.
Take the first stitch for the buttonhole to a depth covering the
overcasting stitches. Continue with buttonhole-stitches taken
about two threads apart and at exact right angles to the edge.
Take five stitches in circular or fan shape around the upper
end.
When the second side is finished, take three stitches over and
over to make a bar across the lower end. This bar should be equal
in length to the buttonhole-stitches on both sides, as shown on
buttonhole B in Fig. 21.
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29


Take four stitches over and over on each side of the loop of the
eye, near the edge of the cloth.
Sew back part way around one of the circles before cutting the
thread.
Place the point of the hook about } inch from the finished edge
and where it will bring the two edges together even when it is caught
into the eye.
Sew over and over around the circles of the hook and over the
point to the turning, if hook is straight. If a “hump” hook, do
not take stitches over the curved part. Take four stitches over and
over at the point of the hook.
Pass the thread back between the folds of the cloth. Fasten it
securely with three or four over and over stitches through each circle
of the hook. The thread should never be broken or cut off at the
point of the hook, as it would then pull out.
Mark for position and sew on metal loops in similar manner,
fastening the thread on under side.


Cut a bias strip į inch wide and finish the neck, shoulder and
outside edges of the jumper with ] inch facing. Finish the back
pieces with hems turned according to the notches.
Gather the lower edges of the jumper. Place the middle of the
front in the middle of the belt, right sides together and each outside
edge i inch from the center front. Place the back pieces in the
same way, with the hemmed edges even with the finished edges of
the placket and each outside edge i inch from the end of the belt.
Back-stitch the gathers to the belt. Face the belt with the inside,
or lining portion, seamed to the top of the belt, across the gathered
edges of the jumper, and hemmed down in the usual way.
Close the shoulders by lapping the front over the back, to the
width of the facing, and fasten by sewing two buttons on each one,
as indicated by the single perforation (6).
Close the back with four buttons and four buttonholes, one at
the belt, one at the top and two equally spaced between.
49


MEMORANDA