OFFICE OF INDIAN AFFAIRS
197
- U 52
SYNOPSIS
ОР
COURSE IN SEWING
HET
BROR
WASHINGTON
GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE
1911





This publication is distributed free only to the officers
the United States Indian Service. Persons desiring copii
for their personal use may obtain them from the Superii
tendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Was!
ington, D. C., for 10 cents.
vern


CONTENTS.
Page.
..................................
'reface.
'art I.
Preparation for sewing.................
Model I. Hemming and patching.......
II. Basting stitches...
III. Seam stitches and finishing stitches
IV. Common embroidery stitches.
V. Buttonholing .......
VI. Stockenet darn........
VII. Plain placket for children's clothes..
VIII. Matching lace and embroidery..
IX. Hemstitching and nitering....
X. French hemming, hemstitching and patching..
XI. Patching........
XII. Cloth darning..
XIII. Seams ....
XIV. Muslin seams............
XV. The shirt-waist placket...
XIV. The dress-skirt placket..
XVII. Tucking and ruffling.
'art II........
Outline lessons....
First term.....
Second term...
Third term
Fourth term .
Fifth term
Sixth term
Millinery ........
General suggestions.
A
CA
...
1...
254648





SYNOPSIS OF COURSE IN SEWING.
PART I.
PREPARATIONS FOR SEWING.
The hands should be perfectly clean.
Sit with the lower part of the spine against the back of the chair,
oth feet upon the floor, the right foot a little forward. The light
hould come over the left shoulder so that the right hand may not
hade the work.
The articles needed should be placed in a bag or basket ready for
se.
An extra needle should always be threaded for use in basting.
Never sew without a thimble. It is used to push the needle through
he cloth and as a protection to the finger.
To measure the thread sit with the left side next to the table.
'ake the spool in the right hand, bring it to the waist line on the left
ide, take the end of the thread in the right hand, and unwind until
he right shoulder is reached. If the cotton is not too coarse, it
hould be broken; coarse linen or silk should be cut slantwise that
he end may go easily through the needle. Never bite the thread.
To thread the needle, hold the end broken from the spool between
he thumb and the first finger of the right hand to make a fine point.
'ake the needle between the thumb and first finger of the left hand,
est the hands together to steady them and put the thread through
he eye of the needle. While drawing the thread through the cloth
; should be held between the middle fingers of the right hand.
Iolding the thread in the hand soils and moistens it and it also causes
erking motions instead of graceful ones.
The size of the needle depends upon the material to be sewed.
Better use too fine than too coarse needles.
When the work is passed to the teacher or when putting away
nfinished work, the needle should be carefully put into the cloth.
The emery should be used when the needle does not go easily
hrough the cloth.
A knot should be used to begin basting, running, and gathering,
nd in stitches where there is to be great strain upon the seam.


10
SYNOPSIS OF COURSE IN SEWING.
MODEL II.
BASTING STITCHES.
On this model two basting stitches are taught. They are eac.
worked from right to left.
Material: Unbleached sea-island muslin. One piece 6 inches oi
warp by 7 on woof. Needle No. 7 or 8, pink cotton No. 50.
Begin at corner of material and draw one thread one-fourth inc
from selvage edge on warp and one thread one-half inch from rav
edge on woof. Cut carefully along space where thread was drawn
Divide this piece into three equal strips 6 inches long warp thread by
24 on woof.
The line of sewing that joins two or more pieces of material is
seam. Basting is commenced with a knot and finished with two
stitches, one taken over the other. Every basting knot should be
large and placed where it can be easily found when removing bastings
The even basting stitch: Place knot on top of seam one-fourth
inch from edge of goods and take each upper and each under stitch
about one-fourth of an inch long. Finish the line of basting by tak-
ing two stitches, one over the other on top of seam and do not cut
thread shorter than one inch. The even basting is used where there
is likely to be some strain on the basted seam.
The uneven basting stitch: Place knot on top of seam and take
every under stitch one-eighth of an inch long and every upper stitch
one-fourth of an inch long. The uneven basting is used where bast-
ing is needed to keep the line of sewing straight and to hold the cloth
in place while sewing.
To remove bastings the thread should be cut every few inches. Be
careful never to draw a knot through the material. In velvet every
alternate stitch should be cut and the thread pulled up with the pile.
Velvet and velveteen should always be basted with silk.
Never baste on the line of sewing and never sew through a basting


SYNOPSIS OF COURSE IN SEWING.
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SYNOPSIS OF COURSE IN SEWING.
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16
SYNOPSIS OF COURSE IN SEWING.
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MODEL V.
BUTTONHOLING.
Material: Indian Head
bleached muslin, one piece, 4
inches by 8 inches. Needle No.
7 or 8. Pink cotton No. 50.
Plain buttonhole: No. 1
teaches the cutting and over-
casting of a plain buttonhole;
No. 2, the cutting, overcast-
ing, and working. For all flat
buttons the buttonhole should
be cut the diameter of the
button. All buttonholes are
worked with the buttonhole
stitch beginning at the right-
hand end on the side toward
you, working from right to
left and from you.
The plain buttonhole is not
very strong and should not be
used where any strength is re-
quired.
The stranded buttonhole:
Cut and strand by running
a thread three times around
buttonhole, taking a small
stitch under each end of but-
tonhole each time going
around. No. 3 teaches the
cutting and stranding and
overcasting, and No. 4 the
working of the stranded but-
tonhole.
The stranding strengthens
the buttonhole and aids it in
holding its shape.
The square end is another
process of making thestranded
buttonhole, as is shown at
No. 5. One end is left square,
which is a nice finish for use
MODEL V.-BUTTONHOLING.
on thin dresses.
The barred buttonhole: No. 6 shows another process of working
the same buttonhole. A bar is run across the square end, which
Shorts
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List


SYNOPSIS OF COURSE IN SEWING.
17
strengthens the stranded buttonhole. The bar is made by taking
about three stitches over the end of buttonhole and then loop stitch-
ing these threads, catching needle into material under the bar of each
stitch.
· No. 7 shows the barred buttonhole with a bar on each end, which
is the strongest buttonhole made. Excellent for use on belts or
tight clothing
Sewing on a button: Buttons having four eyes should be sewn on
with two straight bars running lengthwise with the buttonhole.
MODEL VI.
STOCKINET DARN.
Material: Unbleached stockinet, 4 inches square.
Always darn on right side of stocking, as that will leave the inside
smooth and soft. Hold the stocking over the left hand while darn-
ing. Do not use a darning ball, as it is apt to stretch the stocking
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and make the hole larger and often changes the shape. The length-
wise threads are put in first, then the crosswise threads are put in,
by taking one thread over and one thread under the needle. The
threads must not be drawn tight. Weave short stitches into the
cloth about three-eighths of an inch out from the edge of the hole.
Weave through worn places rather than trim them out.
64632°—11--3


18
SYNOPSIS OF COURSE IN SEWING.
MODEL VII.
PLAIN PLACKET FOR CHILDREN'S CLOTHES.
Material: Long cloth, one piece, 5 inches on woof by 6 inches
on warp. Needle No. 10. White cotton No. 80.
Hem each side with 4-inch hem and one end with {-inch hem.
From center of other end cut an opening 3 inches down on warp

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MODEL VII.-PLAIN PLACKET FOR CHILDREN'S CLOTHES.
thread. Hem left side of opening with an eighth of an inch hem.
Fold the wide hem over the narrow, and backstitch across bottom of
opening twice.
All fastenings in women's clothing should be made to lap from
right.


SYNOPSIS OF COURSE IN SEWING.
21
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MODEL IX.-HEMSTITCHING AND MITERING.


SYNOPSIS OF COURSE IN SEWING.
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MODEL XI.-PATCHING.


26
SYNOPSIS OF COURSE IN SEWING.
MODEL XII.
CLOTH DARNING.
Cloth darning in different cuts and darning to patch is taught
on this piece
wool cashmere. Thite cotton No.
Material: All wool cashmere. A piece 6 inches on woof and 8
inches on warp. A fine needle and white cotton No. 100 for the darn-
ing and blind hemming.
Blind hemming: Fold the hem and baste. (White cotton is used
for the hemming on this sample but, in garments, split silk of the
same shade would be used.) Insert the needle about one-fourth
inch into the folded edge of the hem and below the fold, take only a
thread of merely a hair of the material, drawing the thread through
lightly so as not to show any mark through to the right side. The
stitches are straight instead of slanting, as in regular hemming..
1. Darning a crosswise tear: White cotton is used on this sample
in order that the work may show plainly. In darning garments a
warp thread of the same material or split silk of the same shade
would be used. Never use a knot in darning thread. Take small
stitches straight with warp thread back and forth fully three-fourths
of an inch out on either side of tear. Where garment is badly worn
or frayed the weaving should extend out to cover all weakened parts.
2. Darning a bias tear: Run darning thread straight with warp
thread, being careful to keep the distance on either side of tear the
same.
3. Darning a snag or tear on both warp and woof: Darn the warp
or lengthwise tear by running stitches straight with woof threads,
the woof or crosswise tear by running stitches straight with warp
threads. The last darn put in will cross the first darn at the corner.
4. If the garment is worn thin and badly raveled, a piece of cloth
may be placed underneath and the material darned down to the
patch.


28
SYNOPSIS OF COURSE IN SEWING.
MODEL XIII.
SEAMS.
Material: Wool flannel, 6 inches on warp and 9 inches on woof.
Cut a lengthwise strip from center of piece 1} inches wide.
1. Plain seam: Place the two edges together carefully, sew with
white cotton No. 100, about one-fourth inch from edge. Open out
this seam and catch stitch down each edge. Catch stitching is always
done from left to right. This kind of a seam may be ornamented
with the treble featherstitch as shown here.
2. The Dorothy seam: Sew seam on right side of material about
one-fourth inch wide. Open seam and baste taffeta seam binding or
a piece of same material over seam so no raw edges will show. Catch
stitch down on each side with silk thread.
3. Slot seam: Fold and baste an inverted box plait. Fasten
down with some kind of fancy embroidery stitch to bottom of yoke
on waist or skirt. Finish end of line of stitching with arrowhead
tack.
4. Slot seam finished with catch stitch.
5. Flannel hemming: Do not turn under edge of flannel for hem-
ming but catch stitch down the raw edge.
6. This is a cross stitch worked from right to left, holding the
material over the left forefinger.
Uses: It is used to fasten down raw edges in seams, hems, patches,
also in putting on bone casings, and to fasten down the edge of inter-
lined material such as cuffs, collars, and bottom of waist, which are
afterwards faced. The stitches should not be taken through the
interlining


SYNOPSIS OF COURSE IN SEWING.
MODEL XIV.
MUSLIN SEAMS.
Material: Long cloth or bleached muslin, 7 strips, 14 inches on
woof thread and 6 inches on warp thread.
1 and 2. French seams: Place the two pieces of material together
with right sides out, sew as near the raw edge as possible. Trim off
all frayed edges, turn the material wrong side out, crease the seam
even and sew a seam wide enough to cover the raw edges. In muslin
undergarments or any heavy material this seam should be one-
fourth inch. On thin material one-eighth inch.
3 and 4. Felled seam: Put two edges together, the one farthest
from you one-fourth inch above the other, then sew one-fourth inch
below lower edge. Fold down upper edge of seam one-fourth inch
over the lower edge, open out material, crease down the seam and
stitch as close to edge as possible.
5. Welt seam: Baste seam on wrong side and stitch. Fold both
edges of seam back the same way and stitch on right side of material
as near the edge as desired. This seam is generally used in tailored
skirts and coats. It may be finished with two or more lines of
stitching on right side of garment or it may be finished with only
one line of stitching altogether. Baste the seam carefully, fold back
both edges together, stitch on right side and then draw out bastings.
6. Welt seams forming a plait: Sew the same as last method
given under 5, only stitching down to yoke length on skirt. For a
plaited skirt the seam should be at least 2 inches wide. After
stitching yoke length at the top of the skirt, trim the seam off within
one-fourth inch of stitching, slope it out to 2 inches wide at bot-
tom of line of stitching. Stitch these two seams one-fourth inch
from edge, beginning 2 inches above the end of the line of stitching
on yoke. Remove the bastings, and press.
This piece is done on the sewing machine, and with this instruc-
tion will be given in the proper care of the machine, line stitching
and gauging.
-
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