SCHLESINGER LIBRARY RS LZAL D V6 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW MRS. RALSTON The Arthur and Elizabeth SCHLESINGER LIBRARY on the History of Women in America Gift of Mrs. Jefferson Patterson WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW POEMAS Arabella in all her finery WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW BY VIRGINIA RALSTON ILLUSTRATED NON-IN FERIOR ASEOV ENTES NEW YORK MOFFAT, YARD AND COMPANY 1915 Copyright, 1910, by MOFFAT, YARD AND COMPANY NEW YORK All Rights Reserved Published, February, 1910 Reprinted, April, 1911 Reprinted, April, 1913 Reprinted, January, 1914 Reprinted, July, 1914 Reprinted, August, 1915 PRESERVATION MASTER AT HARVARD 79 - 2315" LOVINGLY DEDICATED TO MY MOTHER WHO THINKS I DO NOT KNOW HOW TO SEW! CONTENTS PAGE . 3 . . · · . . . . 9 10 · · · . · • · · · · · . · · · . · · · · · · . · · · · · · . · · · . · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . MATERIALS FOR THE FIRST LESSON . . . . RUNNING STITCH . . . . . . . . BASTING STITCH . . . . . . . STITCHING STITCH . . . BACK STITCHING . . MAKING THE BEAN-BAG . . OVER-HANDING · · · · · · CATCH-STITCH . . . . . . . SCISSORS AND TAPE MEASURE . . HEMMING STITCH . . MAKING A DUSTING CLOTH . . . . . . MAKING A BIB . . . A PETTICOAT FOR ARABELLA . . MAKING A PLACKET . . . . . . THE GATHERING STITCH . . . STROKING GATHERS . . . PUTTING ON THE BAND . . . UNDERBODY. . . . . . . DRAWERS . . . . . CASING FOR DRAWING STRING . . . . . . EVERYDAY FROCK FOR ARABELLA . . . . . FLY-FASTENING . . . . . . . . . BAND TRIMMING . . . . . . . . . . . . · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · · .. . . . · · · . CONTENTS · · · . · PAGE MAKING THE MANTLE . . . . . . . . . . 66 Fancy FLANNEL SACQUE . . . . . . . . . BLANKET STITCH . . . . . . . . . . . 73 SEWING ON BUTTONS . . . DARNING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 MAKING BUTTONHOLES . . . . . . . . . . . PATCHING . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 · · · . · . · · · . · ILLUSTRATIONS . · · PAGE Frontispiece . . . ... . . . . . . · . · · · · · · . . · . · . · · . · · · · · . · . · ARABELLA IN ALL HER FINERY . . . . . THE PROPER SITTING POSITION . . . . THREADING THE NEEDLE . . . . . . RUNNING STITCH . . . . . . . UNEVEN BASTING STITCH No. 1 . . . . UNEVEN BASTING STITCH No. 2 . . . . STITCHING STITCH No. 1 (RIGHT SIDE). . STITCHING STITCH No. 2 (WRONG SIDE). . ILLUSTRATION OF KNOT . . . . . . ILLUSTRATIONS TO “OVER-HANDING". . . CATCH-STITCHING (RIGHT SIDE) . . . . CATCH-STITCHING (WRONG SIDE) . . . . CATCH-STITCHING (TURNING A CORNER). . ILLUSTRATION OF “HEMMING STITCHES" . ILLUSTRATION OF BIB . . . . . . . ARABELLA HAS A PETTICOAT . . . DIFFERENT SEWINGS FOR PETTICOAT . . . MAKING A PLACKET . . . . . . . GATHERING ON CANVAS . . . . . . GATHERING ON MUSLIN . . . ILLUSTRATIONS TO "BAND". . UNDERBODY . . . . . . A TRUE BIAS . . . . . . . . . SEWING ON BIAS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . · · . · · · · . · . · . . · . · · · · . · . · . . . · · . . · · · · · · . · · . . . . ILLUSTRATIONS . . PAGE PANTIES FOR ARABELLA . . . . . . . . . 49 ARABELLA NEEDS A NIGHTGOWN . . . . . . NIGHTGOWN . . . . . . . . . . . . CASING . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 ARABELLA IS MEASURED FOR HER NEW FROCK . .. EVERY DAY FROCK . . . . . . . . . . FLY-FASTENING . . . . . . . . . . .. ARABELLA'S FROCK . . . . . . . . . .. MAKING THE MANTLE . . . . . . . . ARABELLA LIKES HER WARM MANTLE . . FANCY FLANNEL SACQUE . . . . ARABELLA WEARS HER NEW SACQUE . . BLANKET STITCH . . . . . . . . . . . BLANKET STITCH ON CANVAS . . . USING A PIN TO KEEP THE THREAD LOOSE . . DARNING STITCH ON CANVAS . . . . . . . . BUTTONHOLE STITCH . . . . . . . . . . 79 BUTTONHOLE . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 PATCHING . . . . . . . . . . . 82, 83 . . . . . . WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW. “When we're big enough to sew, Why, then we're growing up, you know!" .WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW. 3 INTRODUCTORY Think how nice it would be, when mother is busy with her sewing and mending, to sit beside her on a little low chair and help her with that big sewing basket over-flowing with work! One could learn how to sew a button on brother Tom's shirt, mend a tear neatly in little sister's apron, thread mother's needles, put a new band on an outgrown petticoat and even make dainty little frills for big sister's shirtwaists. But the very best, I've kept 'til the last, for wouldn't you like to learn how to cut out, sew and make all your own doll baby's clothes? To make real underclothes with real buttons and buttonholes that will button and unbutton? Just to think of being able to dress and undress your little doll baby family as often as you like! One could even make little night gowns for them to sleep in and best of all, everything they wore would be made by your own busy little hands. First, we will have to find a little sewing room. This we would make in any sunny corner of the nursery or mother's sewing room, and if you will promise to keep it tidy, I'm sure she will say “yes.” Then we must find a little old chair and ask brother to get his tool box and WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW saw off several inches from the legs to make it the right height. For when you sit on your little chair to sew your feet should rest easily on the floor and not swing. The chair must be placed so that the light will fall from the side or over your shoulders from the back, and not directly in your eyes. Sit up straight and well back on your chair, for if you are able to take long, deep breaths your head will not ache and you will not tire so easily. There should be plenty of space to use your arms freely. This is important, children, and makes as much difference in your work as playing hide-and-go- seek in the country or in a city yard. Then you should have a little low table to stand in front or on one side for your workbasket. Then see if your hands are nice and clean, if not, run off and wash them, as dirty little fingers rust and soil the needle and makes it hard to push it in and out of the material. Now we are ready to learn how to sew. The proper sitting position WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW “The thread is in the needle, The thimble in its place, Mamma is busy teaching me To run, to hem and baste." WHEN MÔTHÊR LETS US SEW Do not bend your head over your work as this tires the shoulders and strains the eyes, but lift the work up so you can see it clearly and easily. Here is a list of the stitches we want to learn and try and remember by name: No. 1.-Running stitch. No. 2.-Basting stitch. No. 3.—Gathering stitch. No. 4.-Stitching stitch. No. 5.—Back-stitch. No. 6.--Hemming stitch. No. 7.-Over-handing. No. 8.-Catch-stitch. No. 9.-Blanket-stitch. WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW "RUNNING STITCH:' We are now ready to take the first stitch. The running stitch is made in a straight line from right to left. Hold the work with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, putting in the needle with the right hand. Take up two threads on the canvas. Draw out the needle, leaving a half-inch thread at the end and take another stitch over the first to hold the thread. Now pass over two threads and take up two more threads, and continue running and spacing the stitches evenly, drawing the thread upwards towards the right shoulder. Do not draw the thread tight, but let it lie easily on the canvas. The running stitch is used for light seams where there is little strain and for tucking. RUDDING • STITCH 10 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW BASTING STITCH Basting is a long stitch used to hold the material or seam in place until it is more securely sewn. It is exactly the same as the running stitch, except that it is longer, so it will be easier to learn these two stitches together. Make the basting stitch an inch below the run- ning stitch, using the running stitches as a guide to keep them straight. Let us use blue zephyr this time. Hold the needle in your hand easily, for when making a long stitch in sewing UNEVEM • BASTING • no. i • • you will do better work with a "free" hand, in- stead of a hard, tight hand. The length of stitch in even basting depends upon the mate- rial. For our first lesson, let us make it twice the length of the running stitch. So take up four threads on the needle and pass over four, making them the same length on each side. To make uneven basting, take up two threads and pass over four. WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW EVEN.BASTING. • • no.2 • Gathering stitches are made the same as run- ning, except that the thread is drawn up on the material. We will learn this stitch when we be- gin to make real doll babies' clothes. We must take these simpler stitches first and learn how to use them. In the beginning it will seem very hard to make your stitches even and in a straight line, but really it isn't a bit harder than learning jackstraws. 12 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW, "When I'm a grown-up woman, With my hair up on my head, I'll sit and sew 'til very late And never go to bed!” WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 15 “Oh! dear! A knot's a puzzle how to make! It looks just like a creepy little snake! But what's the use of sewing tight If one hasn't started the seam just right?” 16 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW. MAKING THE BEAN BAG To make the bean bag or iron holder we must have a piece of unbleached muslin, a spool of No. 30 cotton and a No. 8 needle. Have mother cut a piece of material six inches wide by twelve inches long. Fold, and baste the edge of two sides together carefully a half inch from the raw edges. And now we must stop a moment be- fore beginning our stitching and learn how to make a “knot." A knot is made by twisting the end of the thread and prevents the thread from slipping out of the material. It would never do to have the seem rip out in the bean bag because we hadn't fastened the thread, would it? To make the knot, hold the thread in the left hand and twist the thread around the forefinger of the right hand, holding it with the LLUSTRATION thumb and rolling it off with the middle finger, pressing the end of the thread through the loop around the finger. It sounds harder than it really is, as you will see when you try to make one two or three times. After you have made the knot we will begin to sew the bean bag. Just under the basting make a line of stitching. At one end of the bag is the fold of the material, so there are .OR. KNOT 18 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW "OVER-HANDING" NNNNNNN MOONNNNNN Practice first on canvas sampler, using a brown zephyr thread. This stitch is used to join the two edges closely together on the right side of the material. First baste the two ends together to within a couple of inches of the end if you are making a bean bag, as we must leave a little opening to pour in the beans before closing up the entire seam. If you are making an iron holder, get mother to give you several pieces of flannel cut in squares to fit, to put inside before begin- ning to baste. To make the overhand- ing stitch sew from right to left, holding the ma- terial straight before you with the two edges to be overhanded between the thumb and forefinger. Put the material into the material between the two thicknesses, pointing it straight toward you. Take up enough to make a (D firm stitch, and make an- 20 WHEN. MOTHER LETS US SEW, “Next comes the catch-stitch, children, Isn't that a funny name To give to something serious As if it were a game?" WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 21 "CATCH-STITCH' Catch-stitching is a loose, fancy stitch used to hold down edges that have no wear or tear on them such as the seams on flannel petticoats or UUDIO CATCH STITCHING Right Side . . . TTTTTTTT in the trimming of hem or bands. It is pretty used as a trimming on dolls' wrappers and sacques. As in making the overhanding stitch, the needle must point directly toward you. This stitch is made from the left to the right CATCH STITCHING Wrong Side ... . and is a slanting cross stitch which on the wrong side looks like a running stitch. Each stitch should be alike in depth and width. In trim- ming bands or hems, keep the lower edge of the WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW stitch on a line with the straight edge to be trimmed. Take the stitch straight through the double fold of the material. CATCH STITCHING Turning a Corner • • 24 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW. “Hemming, mother tells me, Must be neat and very fine, The stitches small and even, All in a nice, straight line." WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 25 'HEMMING STITCH The hemming stitch is a slanting stitch taken from right to left first through the material under the folded over hem and then upward, in a slanting line toward the left shoulder into the Me hek Right side of hem Hemming stitch Showing fold and needle in position edge of the hem. Do not begin with a knot, but sew under the end of the thread with your first stitches as in overhanding. The stitches must be as small and regular as you can make them. Take each stitch in advance of the last one. HERMITTIG STITCH 019 Canvas • • Douchi 26 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW MAKING A DUSTING CLOTH Suppose you look in the scrap bag for a piece of checked gingham left over from one of your little, aprons. This would be excellent on which to practice catch-stitching as the lines and squares of the plaid will make a guide for the stitching. Cut in a large square and baste a hem half an inch wide on all four sides and be- gin to catch-stitch. Put the needle in the mate- rial and take a short stitch toward you, holding the cloth over the forefinger of the left hand and making the stitch in the same line as you wish to make the stitching run. Now take another stitch to the right and a little below the first stitch in the same manner with the thread over the needle. Try to turn the corner nicely. Take a stitch to the right and instead of point- ing the needle towards you, point it to the left or following the line of the hem. Now take an- other stitch from this one in the usual way to form a square with extended corners. Now we will try the hemming stitch, first on our sampler of canvas and then on a little piece of muslin. After we have learned this, we have only one more stitch, a pretty fancy one, and then we will begin to make real dolly clothes. The edge of the material, after it has been cut WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 27 or torn, is called the raw edge. To cover this edge before hemming the edge must be turned over twice, once to enclose the raw edges and once to turn the hem. This is called, “turning the hem.” In a narrow hem the second turn just covers the first turn. Wide hems must be carefully measured. To do this use a card notched at the depth the hem is to be made, run- ning it along as you turn over the edge as a guide to keep it straight. Practice turning hems of different width on a piece of paper. The hem must first be basted and then hemmed. WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 29 MAKING A BIB Piece of linen. No. 8 Needle. No. 50 cotton. 'As a first trial with the scissors in real cutting out, we will make a bib for baby brother. You know that a bib is oblong shape, longer than it is wide, so ask mother to show you the length of the material so you will know in which direction OCT _3'2'N. JI FOLD Illustration of bib to measure it off. Use linen or crash toweling. Take your tape measure and measure off for the length sixteen inches and twelve for the width. Fold lengthwise and mark off three and a half inches from the top on the fold and three inches across the edge and mark with notches. Cut a curved line for the neck from one notch to an- other. Finish each side with a narrow hem as well as the ends each side of the curved neckline. 30 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW Make the second turn of the hem just wide enough to cover the raw edges of the first turn. Make a hem at the lower edge twice the width of the side hems, measuring with the marker to get the right depth. Bind the edge of the neck with half-inch wide tape. First baste it on one side, using half the width of the tape, then fold over on the other side and baste. Finish with running stitches. Sew straight through the double thickness of the tape. Arabella has a petticoat 36 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW, “A placket hole! What can that be? Mother is busy showing me, To make a slit, bind, stitch and turn, And keep on trying, 'til I learn!” WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 37 MAKING A PLACKET 'A' placket is an opening in clothes to give space so they can be slipped on easily. We must make a placket in Miss Dolly Arabella's WIDE HEM. HEMON. LEFT SIDE: WRONG •SIDE. RIGHT SIDE.OF. 1}.06. PETTICOAT. •PETTICOAT: RIGHT SIDE: OF.PETTICOAT: LACKET: WHEN FINISHED ..*: HOLDING: PLAIT IN:PLACE, petticoat so it can be put on over her head and shoulders. The placket is made at the top of the back seam which we left open for this pur- pose. First make a narrow hem on the left side of the opening, turning it on the wrong side, and taking up just as much of the material as you 38 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW used in the flat fell. Now snip into the material on the right side at the end of the seam to turn the hem on this side, which should be twice the width of the one on the left side. After you have finished the hem, fold over the entire width of the hem over on the left side of the placket. This will make a plait in the petticoat just below the end of the placket. Sew over the narrow hem with a row of stitches. WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 39 THE GATHERING STITCH The top edge of the petticoat must now be made ready to put on the band: First it must be gathered. The "gathering" stitch is very much the same as the running stitch, except that GATHERING On Canvas • . in gathering, the spaces between the stitches are twice the length of the stitch. This is called "uneven gathering," and is the kind used in a petticoat. Gathering is used to give fullness and to draw the fullness into a smaller spaces. Use a strong thread for the gathering and sew in a straight line on the right side of the mate- rial to the placket at the end. First dividing · the length of the material to be gathered into two parts and using a separate thread for each part, as a long Gathering on muslin 40 . WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW thread would be likely to break. Sew about a quarter of an inch from the raw edge, and it would help to keep the gathers in a straight line if you would first crease the material as in turn- ing the fold for a hem. WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW “When I can measure, cut and sew, Won't that be a lot to know? But I'm only a little girl, you see, So don't expect too much of me." artheid 44 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW der as for the first turn of a hem, turning under at the same time the ends of the band. Baste directly over the other row of stitching and hem. After you have finished overhand the ends to- gether. WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 45 UNDERBODY To cut out an underwaist, fold the material lengthwise and lay the center front of the waist pattern on the fold, which will bring the lower edge, front and back, straight with the raw edge of the material. Pin the pattern and material together at the corners and near the edges to keep in flat and straight while cutting out. After you have finished, open the material and cut from the neck line to lower edge in center back. Piece of soft muslin. No. 8 needle. No. 50 white thread. As this underbody is in one piece, back and front, it is only necessary to join the under-arm seams. Sew these with a flat fell, as we used in seaming the petticoat. Fold narrow hems on each side of the back opening, and turn a wider hem at the lower edge, to which the buttons will be sewn, first basting and then hemming. To finish the neck and armholes neatly we must learn how to put on a bias binding. To cut bias bands we must first get a true bias on the material. A square of material must be cut in a slanting line from one corner to another. This gives you a bias line from which you can 46 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW •FOLD · OF MATERIAL CENTER:FRONT ........ HEM........ • UNDER: WAIST: •FRONT BACK Underbody WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 47 cut narrow bias strips for binding. Measure with a piece of paper all along the bias edge to keep the band the exact width as you cut. Then pin the band which you have cut to the bias edge and use as a guide to cut the next band. To sew this bias band around the neck or armhole, hold the garment toward A true bias you, and sew on the right side, basting the band just below the edge. Sew with a running stitch. After you have finished, pull out the basting thread. Now turn the bias band over the raw edge to the wrong side of the body. Crease the edge flat on the right side. Turn under the raw edge as if for a hem, the same depth as on the right side, baste Sewing on bias binding with and finish with running stitch hemming stitches. Turn under the ends and overhand. In bind- ing the sleeves, turn one side of the binding 48 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW over the other with a turned edge. This makes a firm, flat finish. After you have bound both the neck and armholes, we will use the bodkin to run a draw string into the binding at the back. Thread the bodkin with a very narrow tape long enough to reach all around the neck, allowing a couple of inches on each end, to tie up in a bow. Pass the bodkin under the bias fold on the right side at one end, and bring out at the other end. When you put the underbody on Arabella, you can draw up the string and ad- just the fullness at the front. In a little while, when the other undergarments are cut and finished, we will learn how to sew on buttons and make buttonholes, so this part of the work can all be done at one time. Panties for Arabella 50 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW “Underwear scalloped and trimmed with lace, Each seam and stitch, neatly in place- Nighties of muslin with ribbons blue, Petticoats ruffled and finely tucked, too, Panties and bodies all ready to wear, Now, hasn't my dolly more than her share.” 0000 52 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW of an inch from the edge, and sew with fine run- ning stitches. Then open the two edges flat with the tip of your finger. Trim off with the scissors smooth and close to the sewing. Turn the seam, bring- ing the finished Starting a French seam side on the wrong side of the garment, then make a new seam over the other, hiding or enclosing the raw edges. Sew with a back stitch. Join the two leg sec- tions together at the center seam, with the curved seams directly opposite to each other, Second sewing of French beginning at the top of seam the front and extending this seam half way up the back, leaving the top open for the placket as in making the petticoat. Sew with a flat fell or French seam. Turn a wide hem at the lower edge of each leg. Make a hem on each side of the open seam in back for the placket as you did in the petticoat. We are now ready to put on the band. This, too, can be put on as the petticoat band, except that the full- ness from the gathers should be spread across the front and center back, keeping the sides plain. Arabella needs a nightgown 54 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW. “Lingerie dainty, hand-sewing fine, Ruffles and ribbons, just like mine, Stitches all even, one at a time, Buttons and buttonholes, worked in a line." WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 55 NIGHT GOWN Here is the night gown pattern laid on the material with the center front and back on the • NIGHT. GOWN- • STRAIGHT. OF. MATERIAL: IT CENTRE FONTI PLACKT :. W GATHERS straight fold of the material. After you have cut out the material, make a slit down the center front fold for the placket opening, half way be- tween the neck and waist line. · Open out the material and join the under-arm and side seams, placing the notches carefully together as marked on the diagram of the pat- tern. Baste and sew, using a flat or French seam. Turn up a wide hem at the lower edge, basting first and then hemming. Finish the neck The night gown you are making with a narrow bias binding 56 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW as you did on the underbody. Hem the edges of the placket, making the narrow hem on the left side of the front and the wider hem on the right. The right hand -hem folds over the left side and must be wide enough to hold the button- holes. WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 57 -CASING FOR DRAWING STRING Turn a narrow hem around the edges of the sleeves. One-half inch above the hem set a nar- row bias fold, to make a casing for the drawing string to gather in the fullness. Turn under the raw edges of bias fold, baste and sew with fine · running stitches. • CASING 4.START TO PUT. ON•CASINGHERE Begin sewing the casing at the under-arm seam, turning under the raw edges at each end, but leaving them open for the casing. Thread your bodkin with blue baby ribbon and pass through casings on each sleeve and around neck. 58 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW. “Miss Dolly needs a mantle and a frock for every day, And for every stitch of clothes she wears Real money must I pay! To say nothing of the making, and sewing, neat and fine, But that's not too much trouble For a little child of mine!” e : Arabella is measured for her new frock 60 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW EVERY-DAY FROCK FOR ARABELLA Red polka dotted lawn. No. 8 needle. No. 60 cotton. And now we have come to making a dress! We will make a simple one-piece dress just like the ones mother makes for you little mothers of dolls to wear, with box plaits and plain color band trimmings. • STRAIGHT FOLD. OF MATERIAL: 30x-BAT: - 60X-PLAIT: --PLACKET: • BOX PLAIT.. E- Box: PLAT. - LHEM: · SELVAGE Every day frock for Árabella First take your tape measure and measure Arabella down the front from the shoulder to just below the knees. This will give you the length of her dress when finished. Then allow for ahem. Fold the material lengthwise; as the back and front of this dress is in one piece, the length of the material must be twice the length of measurement from shoulder to end of hem. After cutting the length of the material, WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 61 measure off the box plaits, and baste and sew with a running stitch. There are three box plaits, one at the direct center and one on each side. A box plait is measured off and made like a tuck, except that in this case the edge of the tuck is opened out flat over the line of sewing, and basted until the dress is finished when they I. Detail of box can be pulled out. Make these plait box plaits to the waist line front and back. Now lay the pattern on the material with the center box plait folded directly in the center. Pin carefully and cut. Join the sides at notches for the under seam and baste. Sew with a French seam. Turn a wide hem around the lower edge of the skirt, baste and sew. Slit the material down the back 2. Open under the center box plait, from the neck to waist line, for the placket open- ing. To finish this opening we must make a “fly- fastening." 62 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW, FLY-FASTENING In this kind of a placket the buttons and buttonholes are hidden. Cut two straight strips -FLY-FASTENING : NOI SHOWING: HOW TO MAKE: BAND-FOR-BUTTONS. NO2. SHOW ING.ONE BAND. OVER •LAPPING • THE OTHER of material the length of the placket. The strips must be doubled and wide enough to hold the buttons on one and to make buttonholes on the other. When finished, one band lies di- rectly over the other. Baste and sew one strip to the under left side of the slit. Turn out the strip and fold it over the raw edges, turn under an edge and sew with running stitches. At the end, turn under the raw edges and overhand, slipping under the right side of the slit. This is the band on which we will sew the buttons. Now make a narrow hem on the other side of the placket. Then turn the raw edges of the other band, double it and baste the edges to- WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW. 63 gether. Baste it to the under side of the box plait, keeping the edge of plait and band even. Sew with hemming stitches. This is the band for the buttonholes. "BAND TRIMMING Use plain color material to make the bands which finish and trim the neck and edges of the sleeves. Cut these bands on the bias, and begin with the neck, sewing on as a binding, first on the wrong side. Begin to sew at the right side of the fly-fastening in back. Baste and then finish with running stitches. Drew the basting threads, turn the band over to the right side, enclosing the raw edges, baste, and sew flat with a running or back stitch. Hold the binding easily around the curve of the neck in the first sewing, to keep the lower edge easy fitting. To finish neatly in the back, cut the ends straight, turn under and sew. Arabella's frock WHEN. MOTHER LETS US SEW. "MAKING THE MANTLE" Red cashmere. Red silk lining. Red sewing silk No. A. No. 8 needle. Fold the material double and place the center front of pattern on the selvage edge. The back MAKING THE MANTLE: CENTRE BACK . •CONTRE BACK. 2 ROWS. RUNNING STITCHES . SALVACS HEM CENTRO WH line of pattern should be straight on the fold of material. Pin to material. After cutting, open out material, turn and baste a hem at each side of the center front and around the lower edge. Place the hood pattern on double fold of the material, with the center back line at the fold. Cut the silk for the hood lining exactly the same WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW as the material. Now open out both the cash- mere and silk and baste and sew together with running stitches, half an inch inside the raw edges. Do not baste around the line of neck, as the hood must be gathered and attached to the cape. Turn the lining over the material, or "inside out,” which will hide the raw edges and make it look like a big bag with a hole at the top. Baste the seamed edges all around to keep the material and silk lining smooth and flat while sewing and finishing the neck of the hood and cape. Make a casing to draw up the hood. Sew two rows of running stitches one-half inch apart, sewing in the first row the depth of a hem from the edge, as you can see in the detail illustration of the hood. Run a narrow red ribbon through this casing, with a bodkin. Do not draw up the ribbon until the neck of the hood is gathered and attached to the cape at the neck. Now sew a row of gathering stitches between the ends of casing stitches at the neck of the hood and draw up to the same size as the neck of the cape. Pin the center back of the hood to the center back of the cape. Baste the two raw edges evenly together and sew with back stitches, just below the basting thread. Finish the raw edges with a narrow bias binding or fold 68 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW of red silk. Sew first on the right side with run- ning stitches, turn over the raw edges, and hem down on the wrong side. Turn under the ends neatly and overhand. At each side of the neck sew a piece of nar- row red ribbon, which may be tied in a bow to fasten the cape to keep Arabella warm. Arabella likes her warm mantle 70 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW. "Now I'm making a flannel sacque, For my dolly shall nothing lack ! For I've learned to sew so well, That I can cut, baste and fell. And that's not all the sewing I know, Just wait and to you I'll show. The buttonholes I've neatly worked, For not one lesson have I shirked!” WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW. 71 FANCY FLANNEL SACQUE Piece of white flannel. Skein of embroidery silk in pink or blue. Embroidery needle with large eye. Don't you think Arabella should have a little sacque to wear in the garden on cool mornings ? • FANCYFLANNEL: SACQUE. FOLD.OF.MATERIAL: FRONT: BACK. SLEEVE: We will make one like the pattern in one piece. Place the pattern on the straight fold of the material and cut around the edges and make the two slits for the sleeve. Cut through the center front fold from the neck to lower edge. When you unpin the pattern from the flannel and open out the material you will have a perfect circle. To finish the raw edge of the flannel sacque, we must learn another stitch, called the 'Arabella wears her new sacque 174 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW turning a corner take several stitches in the same hole, spreading them around the edge in fan shape. To fasten the thread take the needle through to the wrong side and make a running stitch back of the last blanket stitch. In beginning with a new thread, make a running stitch on the wrong side and bring the needle through the loop of the last stitch, always keep- ing the needle in front of the thread. Continue this stitch around all the raw edges of the sacque, ex- cept at the neck. Blanket stitch on canvas Finish the neck with a narrow binding of ribbon, leaving long enough ends to tie a bow in front. Sew narrow ribbons under the sleeves to the front and back pieces, half way between the opening, to hold the back and fronts together. The opening of the sleeves are joined with ribbons in the same way. : The next step is to learn how to sew on buttons and make buttonholes, for Arabella's under- clothes and dress are ready to be finished. WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 75 SEWING ON BUTTONS Four-holed buttons. No. 7 or 8 needle. No. 50 cotton. Use a double thread to make it stronger. Buttons are always sewn to the double fold of the material so they will not pull out. Begin by making a stitch on the right side of the material, to be covered by the button. Put the needle up through one hole and then down through Using a pin to keep the thread loose the hole directly opposite, carrying the thread across, then bring the needle up in the hole between the two through which the thread has already been passed and take it down through the opposite hole, making a cross. Put a pin across the top side of the button under the first stitches, and take a few more stitches over the pin. This is to keep the stitches a little loose, as buttons sewn on too tightly soon tear out, and are hard to button. When enough stitches have been taken through the holes of the button to fasten it securely, pull the pin away from under the 78 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW MAKING BUTTONHOLES We are now ready to make the buttonholes. It is always better to make the buttonholes and sew on the buttons as each garment is finished, and this is how mother would work, but as you are only learning, I have left this until the last, so you would know how to sew very well indeed before beginning the buttonholes, which are not so easy for little inexperienced fingers. Buttonholes are little slits used to slip over the button to fasten the different parts of garments together. The edge is finished with a “button- hole-stitch” to make it strong and durable. Practice the stitch on the canvas with zephyr, and do not cut the slit as for a real buttonhole. Take a piece of zephyr half again as long as the usual thread, so that you will not have to use a new thread, as it would be hard to join it neatly in making a buttonhole. As we are working on canvas, mark the line for the slit in white cotton, with running stitches, an inch in length. Put the needle in at the lower right hand side of the guide thread, point- ing it toward you and work from the right to left. Bring it out four or five threads below, or just far enough to prevent the edge from ravel- ing. Before drawing the needle out take the WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW 79 WALIA INOU thread from the right side of the needle and pass it under the point and around to the left side, Draw the needle out with the thread straight before you, so that the thread will purl at the edge. Make the next stitch close to the first, exactly the same depth and in the same way. When you reach the end of the Buttonhole stitch thread, spread the stitches around in fan shape and work down the other side. When this is finished make the stitches straight across the right end as in the illustra- tion. In making the buttonholes UNIMIN STUE in the doll's clothes, cut a I WITT22 slit a tiny bit longer than the width of the button. First NIMI fold the hem or placket over Buttonhole at its center, and cut care- fully through the exact length. Hold the mate- rial slanting across the forefinger of the left hand with the inside lower edge of the button- hole toward you. First outline the slit with long stitches, slipping the needle in at each end from one side to the other. This makes a heavy edge and strengthens the buttonhole. Then make long overcasting stitches around the edge, SSBLUS 80 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW to hold the threads, taking care not to pull the thread too tightly. Then proceed with the but- tonhole stitches as on the canvas. 82 WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW "PATCHING” A patch is a piece of material sewn to clothes to mend holes and worn places. The patch should be of the same ma- terial as the garment to be mended, and so that it will be very neat when fin- ished, it should be put on with the weave running in the same direction as the part of the material to be patched, matching 1. Wrong side as closely as possible. A patch is usually square, whether the hole is square or round. Cut the patch at least half an inch larger all around than the hole. Baste it on the wrong side, making the stitches halfway a between the edges of the patch and the edges of the hole. If the hole is ragged, trim the edges neatly in a square or cir- cle. First hem the garment to the patch, then hem the patch to the garment. 2. Right side Turn under a narrow “When Mother Lets Us” Series "WHEN MOTHER LETS US CUT PICTURES."--By Ida E. BOYD, Teacher of Art in the Brooklyn 'I raining School for Teachers. A book that will be a boon to mothers and children on rainy afternoons. A joy to the convalescent or sick child. Full of clever ideas. “WHEN MOTHER LETS US KEEP PETS."-By CONSTANCE JOHNSON, All children love animals. This little book teaches the child how to care for the various kinds of pets. It is a guide for dog-loving boys and kitten-loving girls alike. "WHEN MOTHER LETS US GARDEN."-By FRANCES DUNCAN, Editor Garden Department of the Ladies' Home Journal. A popular and altogether admirable handbook of simple gardening for beginners of all ages. "WHEN MOTHER LETS US SEW."_By VIRGINIA RALSTON (Mrs. Ralston), Edi. tor of the Dressmaking Department of the Ladies' Home Journal. A wonderfully practical book full of ideas that ehildren can easily carry out. “WHEN MOTHER LETS US PLAY."-By ANGELA M. KEYES, Head of the De. partment of English in the Brooklyn Training School for Teachers. Deals with pantomimes, puppet shows, plays, spinning tales, rhyming, shadow pic- tures, “what to bay" games and many other fascinating plays. "WHEN MOTHER LETS US HELP."-By CONSTANCE JOHNSON. Here are hints for bed-making, cleaning house, sweeping, picking-up, care of cut flowers and house plante, notes on the ice box, the wood box, the pot and pan closet, the piazza, the sick room and the sink. “WHEN MOTHER LETS US GIVE A PARTY.”_By ELSIE DUNCAN YALE. A useful book for birthday, Christmas-in fact, for any and every kind of party. “WHEN MOTHER LETS US COOK."-By CONSTANCE JOHNSON. An admirable scientific cook book for very young cooks. Principal cooking rules in rhyme. “WHEN MOTHER LETS US ACT."_By STELLA GEORGE STERN PERRY. A contribution of great value in amateur dramatics. This is not a book for work, it is a book for play. There is nothing to learn by heart in it. "WHEN MOTHER LETS US MAKE PAPER-BOX FURNITURE.".--By G. ELLINGWOOD Rico, Brooklyn Training School for Teachers. This book shows exactly how to make fascinating doll's furniture out of paper boxes and materials which cost nothing. The ideas are new and unique and the illustrations are excellent. “WHEN MOTHER LETS US MAKE GIFTS."-By MARY B. GRUBB. Just the guide for children who wish to make their own Christmas presents. There is an idea for every one's present-and many extra ones, too. “WHEN MOTHER LETS US MAKE TOYS."-By G. ELLINGWOOD RICH, Brook. lyn Training School for Teachers. This book is for boys as well as girls. It teaches the youngsters to make good use of their time, fingers and the cast-off materials of any household. "WHEN MOTHER LETS US MAKE CANDY."-By ELIZABETH & LOUISE BACHE. Tells the best and safest way to make all sorts of candy. The little readers are taught how to manipulate a thermometer, how to use candy hooks and bars, and are given many valuable hints that will help them in all kinds of cooking. Price 75 cents net each volame. (Postage 10 cents additional) MOFFAT, YARD & COMPANY New York