School needleworkOlive C. Hapgood



^arbart College iLtbrarg





School Needlework
A Course of Study in Sewing designed
for use in Schools
BY
OLIVE C. tJAPGOOD
Teacher of Sewing in Boston Public Schools
"Learn the sound qualities of all useful stuffs, and make everything
of the best you can get, whatever its price. . . . and then, every day, make
some little piece of useful clothing, scwn with your own fingers as strongly
as it can be stitched; and embroider it or otherwise beautify it moderately
with fine needlework, such as a girl may be proud of having done."
John Ruskin.
PUPIL'S EDITION
BOSTON, U.S.A.
GINN & COMPANY, PUBLISHERS
1893



Copyright, 1892,
By OLIVE C. HAPGOOD.
ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
©inn S. Company
ttbe atbeneeum press
Boston


PREFACE.
The importance of instruction in sewing in the Public
School is now generally recognized. As manual training
comes into greater prominence, new methods and helps
are necessary. The demand for these was felt by the
author, and this book is the result of practical experience
in the class-room. Its purpose is to assist both teacher
and pupil; lightening the teacher's labors by saving
constant repetition, and giving the pupil a manual for
reference, with the hope that the information thus ac-
quired will assist in fitting her for the duties of life.
Simplicity with completeness has been the aim through-
out.
In the teacher's edition, the work is further supple-
mented by practical hints and suggestions as to successful
methods of teaching the lessons, and by courses of study
on Kindergarten, Primary, and Industrial Sewing. It
also contains a list of articles obtainable for a sewing
cabinet, and talks on kindred subjects.
The author wishes to acknowledge her indebtedness to
the teachers who have so kindly assisted her, and to
members of the School Board for their advice and interest
in the preparation of the work.


CONTENTS.
PART I.
General Suggestions i
PART II.
Plain Sewing --------- -13
PART III.
Ornamental Stitches - - - 115
PART IV.
Drafting, Cutting, and Making Garments - - - 129
Index ------ 161





2
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
9. A pair of scissors, for girls in the higher classes.
Your name should be written with ink on the bag,
paper of needles, spools of thread, and sample cloth. An
easy way to remember the necessary articles is to let the
hand represent the cloth; the thumb, the bag; the first
finger, the spools of cotton; the second finger, the thimble
and emery bag; the third finger, the needles and pins;
and the fourth finger, the tape measure and wax.
Directions for putting away the work. — 1. Before fold-
ing the work, run the needle in and out of the cloth, near
the last stitches, so as to keep it secure and aid in finding
the place at the next sewing lesson.
2. To fold the work, smooth it out, fold it lengthwise
and narrow enough to go into the bag; then fold it the
opposite way.
3. Put the thimble into the bag first, as it is apt to be
forgotten.
4. After all the articles are placed in the bag, draw it
up closely.
5. Wind the tape tightly around the bag until about
six inches of it are left.
6. Place two fingers of the left hand over the coil of
tape, and wind once over the fingers and around the bag.
7. As the fingers are withdrawn, slip the end of the
tape through, and draw tightly.
If the above directions are carefully observed, no girl
should report any missing article at the next lesson.
Directions for sewing. — 1. Be very careful to have clean
hands.
2. Sit in an erect position, never resting any part of
the arm on the desk.
3. Do not fasten the work to the desk or knee.


4
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
NEEDLES AND THREAD.
Needles. — A needle is a small piece of steel, pointed at
one end, and having an eye at the other to receive a
thread.
Needles are of various sizes and shapes, according to
the uses for which they are intended.
Three kinds of needles are used in sewing on cotton
cloth, — sharps, ground-downs, and betweens; the sizes
range from No. i, the largest, to No. 12, the smallest.
Sharps are long needles, ground-downs are shorter, and
betweens are still shorter. Ground-downs are excellent
for school use, as they do not bend or break easily.
Betweens are used for heavy work.
Worsted and darning needles are used for yarn, and
are of different sizes. Worsted needles have a long eye,
and either a sharp or a blunt point. A very long needle
is used in millinery work. A bodkin or tape needle has a
long eye, and is used for running tape into a hem or
casing.
Let us examine our paper of needles. It is assorted
so that we may have needles suitable for all kinds of
stitches. To open it, place a finger between the folds of
the paper and separate them. Now, opening the sides
and short ends which cover the needles, we find twenty-
five needles in a secure case. Keep them in their places
so that we may know the proper size to use for the thread
or stitch. Beginning at the middle, we find three No. 5
needles, which should be used only with very coarse
thread ; they are suitable for sewing on boot-buttons, etc.
The needles on each side are alike, so following down one


NEEDLES AND THREAD.
5
side, we find two No. 6 needles, used for sewing on coarse
materials ; next are three No. 7 needles, suitable for hem-
ming on towels, etc. ; then there are three No. 8 needles,
for stitching; next are two No. 9 needles, used in hem-
ming cotton cloth; and the last is a No. 10 needle, for
very fine work.
After taking out a needle, fold and tie up the paper so
that none may drop out. Never use a bent needle, as it
makes uneven stitches. In passing a needle, hand the
eye of the needle to the person, keeping the point towards
yourself.
Thread. — A small twist made from flax, silk, cotton, or
wool, is called thread. Thread made from flax is called
linen thread, and is very strong. Thread made from silk
is called silk or twist, and is used when sewing on nice
textures. Cotton thread can be obtained in many num-
bers, and is used when sewing on wash goods; the finer
the thread, the higher the number. Thread made from
wool is called yarn, worsted, zephyr, etc., and is used for
darning, canvas-work, and fancy-work.
A new spool of thread can be unfastened by slipping a
pin under the thread, where it is caught in the wood. To
unwind the thread, hold the spool in the left hand, with
the end of the thread between two fingers. Unwind the
thread until it is of the required length. Break it by
holding it securely in each hand, and snapping it across
the ends of the thumbs. When not using a spool of
thread, keep the end of the thread fastened in the
wood.
Use a piece of thread the length of the desk, or about
as long as the arm. When using very fine thread, take
a shorter needleful. If the thread kinks, remove the


6
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
needle, and beginning at the work, draw the thread tightly
between the thumb-nail and the end of the forefinger.
To prevent thread from kinking, thread the needle with
the end that hangs from the spool. When using double
thread, as in gathering, sewing on buttons, etc., before
making the knot, draw the double thread, beginning at
the needle, across the wax.
Threading the needle. — i. Sit erect, bringing the needle
and thread as close to the eyes as necessary.
2. Roll the end of the thread between the thumb and
cushion of the forefinger, so as to twist it tightly.
3. Hold the needle steadily between the thumb and
forefinger of the left hand, with the eye a little above.
4. Take the end of the thread between the thumb and
forefinger of the right hand, letting about half-an-inch
protrude, and put the thread through the eye of the
needle.
If preferred, the thread can be held in the left hand,
and the eye of the needle passed over it.
To aid in threading a round-eyed needle with worsted
or loosely twisted thread, a few fibres of cotton-batting or
a fine thread can be rolled over the end. Waxing the
end of the thread before rolling it, is also helpful.
Threading a long-eyed needle. — 1. Hold the end of the
zephyr between the left thumb and forefinger, allowing
half-an-inch to show.
2. Place the pointed end of the needle on the cushion
of the forefinger, and over the zephyr.
3. With the left thumb fold the end of the zephyr
tightly over the needle.
4. Withdraw the needle, and pass the eye of the
needle over the loop of zephyr.


CLOTH.
9
collars, cuffs, handkerchiefs, table-cloths, napkins, towels,
etc. Silk is made into dress-silks, ribbons, satins, vel-
vets, etc. Soft, pliable, white cotton cloth (often called
muslin) of medium quality is best for a beginner to use
at first.
The threads of the cloth are called the warp and the
woof. The threads running lengthwise are the warp,
those running across from selvedge to selvedge are the
woof; both can be easily seen on a piece of coarse crash.
The warp is usually stronger than the woof, and for this
reason, any part of a garment requiring strength, should
be cut lengthwise of the cloth.
Cloth is woven straight, but is sometimes drawn out of
shape by pressing. When you can ravel a thread the
width or length of the cloth, it is straight, or will become
so after washing. If it looks uneven, it can be drawn
into place by stretching it on the bias. Calico, when
torn, often looks very uneven, and should be pulled into
shape.
The selvedge of cloth is the finished lengthwise edge,
and cannot be ravelled. The raw edge is the edge that
is cut or torn. A fold is the edge made by doubling one
part of the cloth over the other. The nap is the shaggy
substance on the surface of the cloth. To tear a piece of
cloth, cut in one inch by a thread, then, holding a corner
of the cut between the thumb and forefinger of each
hand, roll the edges from you, and tear steadily ; a fine
piece of cloth must be torn carefully.
What is cloth? Name some kinds of cloth made from cotton; from wool; from
linen; from silk. What are the threads of the cloth running lengthwise of the goods
called? Those running across? How can you tell when a piece of cotton cloth is
straight? If it looks uneven, how can it be drawn into shape? What is the selvedge
of cloth? The raw edge? What is a fold? How should a piece of cloth be torn?


SCISSORS AND CUTTING.
marked, either by plaids or stripes, there is no need of
drawing a thread or folding the cloth.

Fig. 3. — Showing a bias cut. Fig. 4. — Showing an exact bias cut.
To cut bias, cut on a slanting line across both the warp
and the woof.
To cut an exact bias, lay the selvedge or a warp thread
of the cloth, on a line with a woof thread, and cut on the
fold.
What is a pair of scissors? Name the different kinds of scissors. How should
shears be held? How can cloth be cut straight? How can it be cut when a thread
is not easily drawn? How is an exact bias cut?





PART II.
PLAIN SEWING.
Sewing is work done with the needle and thread.
The following directions should be before the pupil
during class work.1
1
2
3
ill
1 1
1 1
Fig. 5. — Measure.
The above represents a three inch rule, to use when
certain measurements are required. The first inch is
divided into halves and quarters, the second inch into
eighths, and the third inch into sixteenths.
Fractions of a yard: —
3 feet or 36 inches is a yard.
27 inches is three quarters of a yard.
18 inches is one half of a yard.
9 inches is a quarter of a yard.
4^ inches is an eighth of a yard.
2% inches is a sixteenth of a yard.
How many inches in a yard? Three quarters of a yard? One half? A quarter?
An eighth? A sixteenth?
1 The illustrations generally represent the stitches enlarged.


14
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
DRILLS.
Drill No. 1. — For practice in using the needle and
thimble.
Materials. — A needle and a thimble.
Directions. — i. Place the thimble on the second finger
of the right hand.
2. Hold the pointed end of the needle between the end
of the thumb and forefinger of the right hand.
3. Place the thimble on the eye of the needle.
4. Push the needle between the thumb and forefinger,
being careful not to cramp the other fingers.
5. With the left hand push the point back into its
former position.
6. Repeat until it can be done easily.
Drill No. 2. - For practice in the motion of stitching,
hemming, etc.
Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 50 thread, and a strip of

Fig. 6 —Showing the work and hands in position.
Directions. — 1. Thread the needle, but make no knot.
2. Hold the cloth over the forefinger of the left hand,


DRILLS.
15
keeping it in place with the thumb and second finger, as
in Fig. 6.
3. Hold the needle between the thumb and the fore-
finger of the right hand.
4. Insert the needle from right to left, taking up a
little of the cloth, and push the needle nearly through.
5. Take the pointed end of the needle between the
thumb and cushion of the forefinger of the right hand.
6. Draw the needle and thread through, bringing the
thimble finger down near the forefinger, with the thread
passing between the third and little fingers. Keep the
little finger nearly straight to guide the thread.
7. Repeat until the motion is learned.
• Drill No. 3. — For practice in the motion of basting,
running, gathering, etc.
Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 50 thread, and a strip
of cotton cloth.

Fig. 7. — Showing the work and hands in position


SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
Directions. — I. Have the needle threaded, but make
no knot.
2. Hold the cloth between the thumb and forefinger
of each hand, as in Fig. 7.
3. With the right elbow away from the side, put the
point of the needle through a few threads of the cloth,
placing the thumb and forefinger of the right hand over it.
4. Pressing the end of the thimble against the eye of
the needle, take three or more stitches in the cloth over
the cushion of the left forefinger, moving only the elbow
joint. (Fig. 7.)
5. Draw the needle and thread through as in Drill
No. 2.
6. Repeat until the motion is learned.
Drill No. 4. — For practice in the motion of overcasting.
Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 50 thread, and a folded
edge of cotton cloth.
Fig. 8. — Showing the work and hand in position.
Directions.— 1. Have the needle threaded, but make
no knot.


DRILLS.
17
2. Hold the fold of the cloth slanting across the edge
of the cushion of the left forefinger, keeping it in place
with the thumb and second finger, as in Fig. 8.
3. Put the needle in from the back of the fold, point-
ing it towards the left shoulder.
4. Draw the needle and thread through as in Drill
No. 2.
Drill No. 5. — For practice in the motion of over-
handing.
Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 50 thread, and a folded
edge of cotton cloth.

Fig. 9. — Showing the work and hand in position.
Directions. — 1. Have the needle threaded, but make no
knot.
2. Hold the fold of cloth horizontally along the edge
of the cushion of the left forefinger, and around the end
of the finger, keeping it in place with the thumb and
second finger, as in Fig. 9.


18
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
3. Hold the right elbow away from the side, without
bending the wrist, and so that the palm of the hand is
towards you.
4. Insert the needle from the back of the fold, point-
ing it directly towards the chest.
5. Draw the needle and thread through as in Drill
No. 2.
CANVAS-WORK.
The stitches in sewing can be easily learnt on canvas,
using bright-colored single or split zephyr, according to
the quality of the canvas.

Fig. 10. — Showing different stitches taken on canvas.


CREASING AND PINCHING.
19
Fig. 10 represents a corner of a square of canvas, with
the stitches taken in the following order: —
1. Uneven basting. 6. Catch-stitch.
2. Running. 7. Button-hole stitch.
3. Stitching. 8. Darning.
4. Overcasting. 9. The edges are worked with
5. Overhanding. the blanket or loop-stitch.
CREASING AND PINCHING.
A crease for sewing is made by folding the cloth, and
pressing the edge until a line is made, which serves to
sew on.
Materials. — A ten-inch strip of bleached or half-
bleached cotton cloth. (A more distinct line can be
made on the bleached than on the half-bleached cotton
cloth.)

Fig. II. — Showing the position of the hands.
Creasing. — 1. Hold the cloth firmly with the hands as
in Fig. 11.


20
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
2. Beginning at the upper right-hand end of the cloth,
turn down towards you the edge one-fourth of an inch in
depth, for three or four inches.
3. Holding the cloth tightly between the hands, crease
the edge with the end of the thumb-nail and the cushion
of the left forefinger, until it will remain flat and has a
sharp edge.
4. Fold and crease the next three inches in the same
manner, and so continue to the end.
5. Holding the right-hand corner of the fold firmly,
crease the entire length.
Pinching. — 1. At the right end of the crease, lay a
half-inch fold between the 'thumb and forefinger of the
right hand.
2. Lay another over this, and so on, until all the cloth
is folded.
3. Pinch the folds, and turn up the edge.
4. Turn the other side of the cloth towards you, and
the sharp edge will serve as a line to sew on.
If the cloth has been well creased, pinching is seldom
necessary.
What is a crease? What purpose does it serve in sewing? How should you
hold the cloth in creasing? At which end should you begin? How is the edge
turned? How is it creased? How should the edge of the fold look? After the
cloth has been once creased, what should be done to the entire length? After
turning up the edge, what should be done? Why i


22
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
The basting, in Fig. 14, is done by taking one long
and two short stitches alternately.

Fig. 14. — Showing a method of basting used on heavy cloth,
needle in the proper position for putting away the work.
Basting, — Practise Drill No. 3 (page 15).
1. Make a knot in the thread to hold it securely.
2. Begin at the right-hand side of the cloth.
3. Place the right-hand corners exactly together, hav-
ing the sharp edge of the crease towards you.

Fig. 15. — Showing the needle in position for beginning.
4. Insert the needle on the crease one-eighth of an
inch from the end of the cloth, and take up a few threads
(Fig. IS).
5. Let the needle remain in the cloth, and pin the
opposite ends together, by placing a pin vertically through
the cloth.
6. Put a pin in the middle vertically.


24
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
1. Make a small knot in the thread.
2. Hold the work over the cushion of the left fore-
finger, as in Fig. 6 (page 14).
3. Insert the needle at the right-hand corner of the
cloth, between the edges of the seam, one-eighth of an
inch from the end, and one thread of the cloth below the
basting.
4. Draw the needle and thread through.
5. Put the point of the needle back a few threads from
where the needle comes through the cloth, and bring it
out the same distance beyond.

Fig. 16. — Showing the stitches
6. Continue, putting the needle back each time into
the last stitch.
7. Make the stitches even and keep the seam straight
(Fig. 16), leaving one thread of the cloth between the
stitches and the basting.
8. Fasten the thread, by inverting the cloth, and tak-
ing a few stitches directly over the last ones made.
9. Join the thread, by making a small knot, and con-
cealing it in the seam; or by taking one stitch with the
new thread, leaving half-an-inch of the thread to be
brought to the left, and to be sewed over with the next
few stitches, allowing it to wind in and out.


HALF-BACKSTITCHING.
25
Suggestions. — In the same manner sew all seams hav-
ing raw edges, if a strain is coming on them, as in
shoulder seams, the seams of drawers, etc. A bias seam
should be sewed from the broad part to the narrow.
How is stitching done? How is the work held? Where is the needle first
inserted? Where next? Where is it brought out? As you continue, where should
the needle always be inserted? How should the stitches be made? How many
threads of the cloth should be left between the basting and the stitches? How
should the thread be fastened? How should the thread be joined?

Fig. I 7. — Showing the stitches and the needle in position.
Half-backstitching is the same as stitching, except
that the needle is put only half-way back, thus leaving a
space between the stitches (Fig. 17).
How does half-backstitching differ from stitching?
HEMMING.
A hem is a fold, made by twice turning over the edge
of a piece of cloth, and then sewing it down.
Materials. — No. 9 needle, No. 70 thread, and a strip
of cotton cloth.


26
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
To prepare the hem, make a fold one-fourth of an inch
wide, and crease; then fold again one-fourth of an inch
deep and crease. Baste near the edge of the first fold
with uneven basting stitches. For wider hems, have the
first fold one-fourth of an inch wide, being careful to crease
it thoroughly, as much depends upon this; crease the
second fold the required width, which can be done evenly,
by measuring every two inches with a paper or other
measure. If a very wide hem is required, baste as you
measure, first along the upper edge of the hem, and then
along the lower edge. On woollen cloth, baste down the
first narrow fold, then baste as for a hem on cotton cloth.

Fig. 18. — bhowing the needle in position for beginning the work.
Hemming. — Practise Drill No. 2 (page 14).
1. Have no knot in the thread.
2. Hold the hem across the cushion of the left fore-
finger, as in Fig. 6 (page 14).
3. Pointing the needle from you, insert it at the edge
of the fold, one-third of an inch from the right-hand end,
and bring it out close to the end, as in Fig. 18.
4. Carefully draw the needle through, leaving a little
of the thread at the end, to be tucked under the hem with


28
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
new needleful, as when commencing the work, putting
the needle into the last hole the short end came out of,
and sewing both ends down with the next stitches.
9. At the end of the work, fasten the thread by taking
two or three stitches over each other in the fold.
Suggestions. — Hems should be begun and finished by
neatly overhanding the ends of the fold. A narrow hem
on stiff cloth, as on table linen, need not be basted. The
seams of a garment should be sewed before hemming, to
conceal the edges. Before turning the first fold, the
end of the seam should be cut to avoid extra thicknesses
and wear; when basting the hem, seams or stripes
should exactly match. In sewing, to hold a wide hem
easily, fold it over and over until it is a convenient width.
What is a hem? How should the hem be folded? Where and how should it be
basted? How many times should a wide hem be basted? How many times should
a wide hem on woollen cloth be basted? Should there be a knot in the thread? How
is the hem held? How should the needle point? Where is the needle inserted?
How should the thread be drawn through? What is done with the end? How is
the stitch made? How should the needle be held? How should the stitches be
taken? In joining the thread, where should the end of the old thread be left?
Where should the end be drawn? In starting with a new needleful of thread, where
should the needle be put? What should be done with the two ends? In fastening,
where and how should the stitches be taken? What should be done to the ends of a
hem?
RUNNING.
Running is done by passing the needle in and out of
the material at regular intervals.
The rule for running is to take up two threads of the
cloth and pass over two threads, but the light in the aver-
age school-room does not permit this, nor is it wise to
strain the eyes trying to do so. The general principle is
to pass over as much of the cloth as you take up.


RUNNING.
29
Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 50 thread, and a half-
yard strip of cotton cloth, doubled and basted.
Running. — Practise Drill No. 3 (page 15).
1. Make a small knot in the thread.
2. Hold the work in the left hand, between the thumb
and cushion of the forefinger, as in Fig. 7 (page 15).
3. Sew directly below the basting.
4. Insert the needle between the edges of the seam, at
the right-hand corner, and take the stitches (Fig. 21) over
the cushion of the left forefinger, as in Drill No. 3
(page 15).

Fig. 21. — Showing the stitches, and the needle in position.
5. Fasten, by putting the needle through to the under
side, and taking two or three stitches in the same place.
6. Join the thread, by sewing over the last stitches, or
by making a knot and concealing it between the edges of
the seam.
Suggestions. — To avoid puckering in running, begin at
the right hand and smooth the seam between the left
thumb and forefinger. Running is used for seams, which
do not require great strength, also for tucking.
How is running done? What is the principle to be followed in running? How
is the work held? Where are the stitches taken? Where is the needle inserted?
How should the stitches be taken? How should the thread be fastened? How
should the thread be joined? When is running used?


30
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
RUNNING AND A BACKSTITCH.
Running and a backstitch consists of two or more run-
ning stitches and a backstitch, taken alternately.
Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 50 thread, and a half-
yard strip of cotton cloth, doubled and basted.

Fig. 22. — Showing the stitches, and needle in position for putting
away the work.
Running and a backstitch. — 1. Begin as for running.
2. Take three running stitches.
3. Take one backstitch.
4. Repeat, which will cause every third and fourth
stitch to meet (Fig. 22).
Suggestions. — Another method is to take three running
stitches, making the third twice the length of the others,
and then, putting the needle back to the middle of the
last stitch, proceed as before. In this manner, the stitches
on the right side resemble running, but on the wrong side
there is a slight difference. Running and a backstitch is
used when the seam needs to be sewed a little stronger
than by running.
Of what does running and a backstitch consist f When is running and a back-
stitch used?


OVERCASTING.
31
OVERCASTING.
Overcasting is done by taking loose stitches over the
raw edge of cloth, to keep it from ravelling,
Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 60 thread, and a stitched
strip of cotton cloth.

Fig. 23. — Showing the stitches, and needle in position.
Overcasting. — Practise Drill No. 4 (page 16).
1. Find one-eighth of an inch and one-fourth of an
inch on the measure (page 13).
2. Place the thumb-nail on the cloth one-eighth of an
inch below the raw edge. The stitches are to be of this
depth, and twice as far, or one-fourth of an inch, apart.
3. Make a small knot in the thread.
4. Hold the work over the left forefinger, as in Fig. 8
(page 16).
5. Begin at the right-hand end of the seam.
6. Insert the needle one-eighth of an inch below the
edge, and between the edges of the seam, in order to hide
the knot.-
7. Pointing the needle towards the left shoulder, take


32
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
the next stitch one-fourth of an inch to the left, and over
both edges of the cloth.
8. Continue, taking up the same number of threads
each time, being careful to make the spaces equal.
9. Do not draw the stitches tightly, but let them lie
loosely over the edge (Fig. 23).
10. To fasten the thread, draw the needle nearly
through the cloth where the next stitch should come.
Turn over the cloth, withdraw the needle, and fasten the
thread at this point, being careful that the stitches do
not show on the right side.
11. To join the thread, make a small knot in the new
thread, and put the needle between the edges of the seam,
through the little hole, which was made when the needle
was withdrawn.
Suggestions. — Before overcasting, take out the basting
threads and trim the edges evenly. All seams whose
edges ravel should be overcast, and, therefore, a selvedge
seam does not need to be overcast. Overcasting is very
difficult to do nicely. The above directions are for over-
casting on underclothes, etc. In overcasting a dress
waist, or any fine material, smaller stitches should be
taken. A bias seam should be overcast from the broad
part to the narrow, or with the grain of the cloth.
What is overcasting? How deep are the stitches taken? How far apart? How
is the work held? At which end is the work begun? Where is the needle inserted?
Why? How should the needle point? How far to the left should the next stitch be
taken? How do you continue with the stitches? How is the thread fastened? How
is the thread joined? What should be done before overcasting? When does a seam
need to be overcast? How is a bias seam overcast?


34
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
6. Pointing the needle towards the chest, put it through
both edges, taking up as little of the cloth as possible.

Fig. 25. — Showing how the stitches should look on the under side,
with the seam opened.
7. Take the stitches at the side of the cushion, and
make them close and even, having perpendicular lines on
the under side of the seam (Fig. 25), and oblique lines
across the edges (Fig. 24).

Fig. 26.— Showing, the edges of the seam being separated, how the
end of the thread is fastened in beginning, how the stitches should
look on the side towards you, and how to join the thread (the
double line representing the old thread, and the black line the new
thread).


OVERHANDING.
3S
8. Joining the thread (Fig. 26). When the thread
becomes too short for use, draw the needle through the
further edge of the cloth, as in taking a stitch. Insert
the needle at the opposite edge, one-fourth of an inch to
the left, taking up one thread of the cloth. Draw the
thread through, and remove the needle. Have no knot in
the new thread. Pointing the needle from you, insert it
at the hole where the old thread is hanging. Draw the
thread through until about an inch is left, and hold the
end under the thumb. Pointing the needle towards you,
insert it at the nearest edge, exactly opposite the last
stitch on the other edge. Hold the ends under the
thumb, while the threads along the top are being over-
handed ; afterwards, cut the ends off.
The thread can also be joined as in Fig. 27. If pre-
ferred, a knot can be used by beginning back and sewing
over a few stitches, and afterwards cutting off the knot.
9. Finish the seam by turning the work around, and
overhanding back four or five stitches; this will fasten the
thread securely.
10. When the seam is finished, draw out the basting
thread, open the seam, and rub it first on one side and
then on the other with the thumb-nail until it is flat.

Fig. 27
. — Showing another way of joining the thread.


GATHERING. 37
2. Use a single or double thread a little longer than
the space to be gathered. A double thread helps to keep
the gathers in place, but is more apt to knot than a single
thread.
3. Make a good-sized knot in the thread, so that it
cannot slip through the cloth.
4. With the right side of the cloth towards you, hold
the work in the left hand, between the thumb and cushion
of the forefinger, as in Fig. 7 (page 15).
5. Insert the needle on the wrong side, so as to conceal
the knot, and through the hem to keep the knot secure.

Fig. 28. — Showing the middle marked by a notch and by a cross-
stitch, also showing gathering stitches.
6. Sew on the crease, taking several stitches before
drawing the needle through.
7. Do not count the threads, but take up about half as
many as you skip, i.e., take up two threads and pass over
four threads (Fig. 28).
8. If a knot, that cannot be untied, comes in the gather-
ing thread, you will have to begin again.
9. When the seam is finished, remove the needle from
the thread, and make a knot in this end of the thread.


3§
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
10. Put a pin in vertically, close to the last stitch, tak-
ing up a few threads of the cloth.
11. Carefully draw up the thread, but not too tightly.

Fig. 29. — Showing the thread drawn up, and fastened around a pin.
12. Wind the thread over the top, and under the point
of the pin a number of times, crossing the threads at the
middle of the pin (Fig. 29).

Fig. 30. — Showing the placing of gathers, with a large blunt needle.
Placing or stroking of gathers. — 1. With the right side
towards you, begin at the left-hand edge.


GATHERING.
39
2. Hold the work between the left thumb and fore-
finger, as in Fig. 30, keeping the thumb below the
gathering thread.
3. Put the point of the large needle under the gather-
ing thread, holding it obliquely.
4. Press the needle towards the thumb, bringing the
little plait under the thumb, and drawing the needle
downwards.
5. Pinch it down tightly.
6. Continue in this way, putting the needle under each
stitch.
Suggestions. — The part to be gathered should be divided
into halves, quarters, or eighths, according to the width.
When the part is only divided into halves, a notch may be
avoided by beginning the gathering in the middle.
In placing, the eye of the needle can be used instead of
a blunt-pointed needle. The upper part of the gathers
often need a stroke of the needle. If a scratching sound
is made in placing, marks are apt to be left, and the cloth
torn. In thin, stiff materials, instead of placing, many
stitches can be taken on the needle at once, and before
drawing the needle through, push them close together;
holding firmly, pull them into place and press them.
How is gathering done? When is it used? How is the cloth prepared? How
long a thread should be used? What kind of a knot is required? How is the work
held? How are the stitches taken? What is done after the seam is finished? How
should the thread be drawn? How should the thread be wound? At which end
should stroking begin? How is the work held in stroking? Where should the
needle be put? What is done next?


40
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
DOUBLE GATHERING OR GAUGING.
Double gathering is done by making two rows of
gathering, with the stitches of the second row directly
under those of the first.
Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 40 thread, and two
pieces of cotton cloth, each half-a-yard long and seven
inches wide, hemmed at the sides and lower edge.

Fig. 31. — Showing double gathering on single material.
Double gathering on single material. — 1. Gather one-
fourth of an inch from the raw edge.
2. When the end is reached, remove the needle, but do
not draw up the thread.
3. Make a crease one-fourth of an inch below the
gathering.
4. On the crease make another row of gathering, taking
each stitch directly below the one above it (Fig. 31).
5. Remove the needle.
6. Take hold of both threads near the cloth, and
gradually draw the gathers up to the required width.


DOUBLE GATHERING. 41
Double gathering which is to be overhanded on to a binding.
— i. Find the middle of the cloth, and mark it one and
a half inches from the raw edge by a cross-stitch.
2. Crease one inch from the raw edge of the cloth, and
let it remain folded.
3. Make two or more rows of gathering, the first row
being one-eighth of an inch from the edge of the fold.
Suggestions. — When double gathering is used, there is
no need of placing. Double gathering should be used on
woollen materials, and quite long stitches be taken, if there
is much fulness. Where the gathers are large, the second
row can be easily made by closely drawing up the first
gathering thread, and inserting the needle through many
gathers at once.
How is double gathering done? How far from the edge should the first row, in
single material, be made? In double material? How is the middle of the cloth
marked for double gathering, that is to be overhanded to a binding?


SCALLOPED EDGE.
43
SCALLOPED EDGE.
A scalloped edge is used as a fancy heading for fulness.
Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 60 thread, a strip of soft
woollen cloth, and strong silk or thread to match in color.
Scalloped edge. — 1. Fold one of the lengthwise edges
five-eighths of an inch from the edge, and baste close to
the raw edge.
2. On the wrong side, and beginning at the right-hand
end, mark the outer edge of the fold into inches with a
colored pencil.

Fig. 33. — Showing a scalloped edge.
3. Half-an-inch below the outer edge of the fold, and
beginning half-an-inch from the right-hand end, make
another row of dots one inch apart. These dots should
be midway between those of the upper row.
4. Make a good-sized knot, and inserting the needle at
the upper right-hand dot, take small running stitches,
slanting up and down, from dot to dot (Fig. 33).
5. Carefully draw up the thread every few inches.
For what is a scalloped edge used? What kind of stitches are taken?


44
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
HONEY-COMBING OR SMOCKING.
Honey-combing is drawing fulness together for orna-
mental effect.
Materials. — No. 8 needle, a piece of fine woollen cloth
eleven inches long and three and a half inches wide, silk
to match, and a red and a blue pencil.
0 O
Od
Ob
O 0 O Oc Q 0"
060606060
I 'I
Fig. 34. — Showing how to mark the cloth, diamonds representing red
dots, and circles blue dots.
Honey-combing. — 1. On the right side of the cloth, and
beginning at one end, mark the entire length, as in Fig.
34, placing red dots in the place of diamonds, and blue
dots in the place of circles.

Fig. 35. — Showing honey-combing begun, needle in position


HONEY-COMBING.
45
2. Drawing the needle through from underneath at a
(Fig. 34), take up a few threads of the cloth at b (Fig. 34),
and fasten a and b together with two or three over and
over stitches (Fig. 35, a).
3. Passing the needle underneath, bring it out at the
next red dot (Fig. 34, c), and fasten c and d together.

Fig. 36. — Showing diamond honey-combing.
4. Continue to the end of the row, fastening together
the red dots which are connected in Fig. 34.
5. Beginning the second row at the right, fasten
together, in a similar manner, the blue dots (circles,
Fig- 34)-


BINDINGS.
47
Preparations. — I. Find the middle of the band, and
mark the place by cutting a notch (Fig. 37) at the edge of
each side, or by taking a cross-stitch (Fig. 37) with
colored cotton.
2. Cut off each corner of the band one-fourth of an
inch deep (Fig. 37), to avoid having many thicknesses of
cloth, when the corners are turned.
3. Loosen the gathering thread.

Fig. 38. — Showing half of the gathers basted and stitched.
4. Holding the wrong side of the gathered piece to-
wards you, place the middle of the band at the notch in the
middle of the gathers, and put in a pin vertically, to hold
them together (Fig. 38).
5. Pin the ends of the gathers one-fourth of an inch
from each end of the band.
6. Tighten or loosen the gathering thread, so that the
length of the gathered edge exactly matches that of the
band.


BINDINGS.
49
is coming, as on underclothing. A narrow binding for
finishing a garment should be cut on the bias. The
binding and gathering should be equally divided by
notches, so that there may be no more fulness in one
part than in another. If there are but few gathers, half-
backstitching can be used instead of stitching. Great
care should be taken to have the ends of the band neat;
some prefer to turn the ends of the band under before
stitching, others stitch the ends of the band together,
before putting it on to 'the gathers.
Binding No. 2. — Sewed by setting-in the gathers.
Materials. — Same as for Binding No. i.

Fig. 39. — Showing gathers set into a band.
Preparations.— i. Mark the middle of the band by a
cross-stitch, and cut off the corners, as in Fig. 37.
2. Crease the four edges of the band.
3. Baste and overhand the ends, beginning at the
corners.
4. Loosen the gathering thread.


SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
5. Hold the right side of the gathers towards you.
6. Pin the middle of one edge of the band to the mid-
dle of the gathers, and exactly over the gathering thread
(Fig. 39, b).
7. Pin the ends of the gathers, inside the ends of the
band (Fig. 39, a and c).
8. Draw up or loosen the gathering thread, so that it
is the same length as the band, and fasten around the pin.
9. Arrange the gathers with the needle.
10. Baste the band on, so that the gathering thread is
covered.
Setting-in of gathers. — 1 . Begin as for hemming, but
make the stitch vertical on the side towards you.
2. Take up, close below the gathering thread, one
gather and then a thread or two of the band (Fig. 39).
3. Take the next stitch by inserting the needle into
the next gather (which should be directly under the
place where the thread comes out of the band) and at the
same time take up a thread of the band.
4. Take a stitch in each gather.
5. When this side is finished, fasten securely, and cut
off the gathering thread.
6. Baste and sew the under part of the band in the
same manner, taking care that the edge of the band
corresponds exactly with the edge on the opposite side,
in order that the band may not be twisted.
7. Do not let these stitches show on the right side.
Suggestions.—The shape of the stitch is like the letter
N, as in overhanding, but the slant here is underneath,
while in overhanding it is on the top. A binding is
more easily sewed on in this manner, if there is a double
row of gathering. To strengthen a binding, where a


BINDINGS.
51
button is to be placed, turn in one inch at the end of the
band before folding it, and baste pieces of cloth on the
under side where other buttons are to be placed ; at the
button-hole end, turn in half-an-inch. Cut a button-hole
in a binding nearer the gathers than the folded edge, so
that the garment will be held in place firmly.
Binding No. 3. — Sewed by overhanding.
Materials. — Same as for Binding No. 1, with the larger
piece of cloth gathered for overhanding to a binding
(page 41).

Fig. 40. — Showing gathers overhanded, with needle in position
Preparations. — 1. Mark the middle of the band by a
cross-stitch, and cut off the corners, as in Fig. 37.
2. Crease the four edges of the band.
3. Double each end, and beginning at the corners,
overhand both ends.
4. Baste the lengthwise edges together.


54
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
2. Place the folded edge of the cloth across the cushion
of the forefinger of the left hand, allowing the tip of the
finger to show.
3. Hold the cloth firmly, keeping the end of the thumb
near the folded edge.
4. Work from you, instead of towards yon.
5. Draw the needle through from underneath, close to
the folded edge of the cloth, which will bring the thread
into position for the stitch.
6. Again insert the needle one-eighth of an inch from
the edge, and exactly back of its first position.

Fig. 41. — Showing the work in position, and button-hole stitches.
7. Let the needle remain half-way through the cloth,
and pointing towards you.
8. Take the two threads at the eye of the needle, bring
them towards you at the right of the needle, then under
the point of the needle and from you (Fig. 44).
9. Pull the needle out, drawing the thread so that the
twist or purl comes at the top of the folded edge of the
cloth (Fig. 41).
10. One-eighth of an inch beyond take another stitch
in the same manner.


56 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
Cutting. — Cut the slit by a thread of the cloth, one-
fourth of an inch from the folded edge, and a little longer
than the diameter of the button.
Barring. — I. Make a small knot in the thread.
2. With the folded edge from you, place the slit across
the cushion of the left forefinger (Fig. 42).
3. Hold the slit firmly between the thumb and fore-
finger, and slanting as in Fig. 42.
4. Work from you, beginning at the end farthest from
the folded edge of the cloth.

Fig. 43.—A, showing the barring of a button-hole; B, showing the
overcasting of a button-hole; C, showing a finished button-hole;
I), showing a button-hole on heavy cloth.
5. Draw the needle through from underneath, at the
left of the slit, and three or four threads from the raw
edge, a (Fig. 43, A).
6. Turn the cloth, so that the folded edge is towards
you.
7. Insert the needle at b (Fig. 43, A), and bring it out
at c, taking up three or four threads of the cloth at each
side of the slit.
8. Again insert the needle at b, and bring it out at c.
This makes a side and end barring.


BUTTON-HOLES.
57
9. Turn the cloth, and bar the other side and end in
the same manner, i.e., inserting the needle at d, bring it
out at a, and repeat. This brings the needle to the start-
ing point.
Overcasting. — 1. Hold the barring tightly near the
edge of the slit.
2. Taking up three or four threads of the cloth, over-
cast one side, making the stitches over the barring and

Fig. 44. — Showing button-hole stitches, Fig. 45. — Showing a finished
enlarged, needle and thread in posi- button-hole, enlarged,
tion. The straight lines represent
the threads of the cloth.
one-eighth of an inch apart. Bring the needle at the last
stitch into the corner, where the side and end barring
meet, b (Fig. 43, B).
3. Turn the cloth, and take one overcasting stitch in
the opposite corner, c (Fig. 43, B).
4. Overcast the remaining side and end in the same


58
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
manner, which will again bring the needle to the starting
point.
Button-hole stitch or purl. — i. Draw the needle half-
way through at the left side, and one thread beyond,
taking up about four threads of the cloth.
2. With the needle pointing towards you, take the two
threads at the eye of the needle, and bring them towards
you at the right of the needle, then under the point of
the needle and from you (Fig. 44).
3. Draw the needle and thread out, at right angles to
the slit, and so that the twist or purl comes at the top edge
of the slit (Fig. 44). In making the purl, the thread will
form the figure eight (8).
4. Continue in this manner, leaving a thread of the
cloth between each stitch, and make the stitches even.
5. Take seven or eight stitches across the outer end
(Fig. 45), drawing the purl towards the-folded edge, and
making either a square or round end. The greatest wear
from the button comes here.
6. Holding the folded edge of the cloth towards you,
work the second side until close to the end barring.
If, in taking the button-hole stitch, you fail to put the
thread around the needle, the stitch can be picked
up, by leaving a small loop, and, with the thread be-
yond it, passing the needle from underneath through
the loop.
Finishing. — 1. Without turning the cloth, draw the
needle down through the first button-hole stitch taken,
bringing it up on the opposite side, where the side and
end barring meet.
2. Draw this stitch so tightly as to bring the sides
close together.


BUTTON-HOLES.
59
3. Make a barring exactly over the one already there,
which will leave the thread at the left side.
4. Holding the thread under the left thumb, draw the
needle under the two end barrings and over the thread,
which will form the loop stitch.
5. Take another loop stitch in the middle of the bar-
ring and one in the right hand corner.
6. Draw the needle down through the cloth dose to the
purl of the last loop stitch, and fasten on the wrong side.
Joining the thread. — 1. If the thread should prove too
short, put the needle through the slit, and turn to the
other side of the cloth.
2. Fasten lightly beside the last stitch.
3. After threading the needle, insert it beside the last
stitch, drawing it towards the purl.
4. Turning the right side towards you, draw the needle
up through the last purl, and proceed with the button-
hole stitch.
Suggestions. — On materials that ravel, make two par-
allel rows of stitching, and cut between the rows ; or the
place may be dampened with glue and cut when dry. It
is important to remember when making a button-hole, to
work from you and begin at the end farthest from the
edge. Try to keep the slit straight and not to press it
out of shape. Some hold the slit horizontally on the
forefinger. The distance that the button-hole is cut from
the edge, depends upon the garment. The side of the
garment in which the button-hole is made, is a matter of
choice, but it is wise to decide upon one side and adhere
to it. In woollen goods a triangle of a few threads of the
cloth can be cut out of the end nearest the edge, or the
end can be rounded.


LOOPS.
65
3. Holding the hook firmly between the left thumb
and forefinger, unfasten it.
4. Begin at the further side, and overhand closely the
two circles (Fig. 48), being careful not to let the stitches
show on the right side.
5. Overhand the under part of the hook, as far as the
bend.
6. Fasten, by taking three or four stitches in the same
place, at one side of the hook; then run the needle to the
opposite side, and again fasten. A great strain comes
here, and it is necessary to fasten securely.
Suggestions. — If the eye is on a garment, where it is
liable to show, cover it with button-hole or loop stitches.
When sewing on hooks and eyes, use a strong thread or
twist, and as fine a needle as possible.
What is a hook? What is an eye? Where is the eye placed? How is it sewed
on? How should the thread be fastened? What is done to the two pieces of cloth
before sewing on the hook? Where is the hook placed before it is put in position?
How is it sewed on? How is the thread fastened?
LOOPS.
A loop is a catch made in a garment, to take the place
of an eye.
Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 40 thread, and a folded
and basted piece of cotton cloth.
Loops. — 1. Make a knot in the thread.
2. Holding the folded edge of the cloth towards you,
work from left to right.
3. Half-an-inch from the folded edge take three or
four stitches one-fourth of an inch in length, and over each
other (Fig. 49, a).


GUSSETS.
67

Fig. 50. — Showing the gusset
folded over.
on three sides; for the gusset a quarter of a four-inch
circle of cloth.
Gussets. — 1. Find the
middle of the side of the
cloth not hemmed, and
cut two inches and a half,
by a thread.
2. Make a hem on each
side, having it one-eighth
of an inch wide at the
top, and turned to a point at the bottom.
3. Find the middle of the rounded side of the gusset,
and crease to the opposite corner.
4. Baste with even stitches along the crease.
5. On all the sides, fold and crease one-fourth of an
inch.
6. Cut off all unnecessary thicknesses of cloth in the
folds, and baste the folds down.
7. On each side, five-eighths of an inch from point a
(Fig. 50), make a pin-hole; then fold and crease from pin-
hole to pin-hole (Fig. 50, b to b).
Setting-in the gusset.— 1. With a small knot in the
thread, draw the needle through from the wrong side of
the gusset, at point a (Fig. 50).
2. Holding the wrong side of the cloth towards you, in-
sert the needle from the right side, two or three threads
from the end of the opening.
3. Holding the right sides together, overhand the
gusset to the cloth, as far as the crease or point b
(Fig. 50) ; fasten securely.
4. Overhand the other side in the same manner, begin-
ning at point a.


68
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
5. Fold the gusset over on the crease.
6. Pin the end of the middle line of basting to the cloth,
a little below the opening (Fig. 51).
7. Baste and hem the gusset to the cloth.
8. Make a row of stitching at the fold of the gusset, to
strengthen it (Fig. 51).

Fig. 53. — Showing other ways of cutting a gusset.
Suggestions. — The gusset can be made as large or small
as desired; it can also be cut in different shapes (Fig. 53).
An easy method of inserting a gusset is to cut a small
square of cloth; fold and crease the edges; placing a
corner at the end of the opening, overhand two sides; fold

Fig. 51. — Showing the middle of the
gusset pinned, and the finished
gusset on the wrong side.
Fig. 52. — Showing the
finished gusset on
the right side.


GUSSETS.
69
on the bias and hem the remaining sides over the over-
handing stitches.
Gusset and facing. — 1. Make a paper pattern the desired
size, having the gusset in the proportions of Fig. 54.
2. Fold the pattern at the dotted lines (Fig. 54), and
place this edge on an exact bias fold of the cloth, which
will bring the edge of the gusset on a line with a thread
of the cloth.

Fig. 54. — Showing the shape of a gusset and facing combined.
3. Cut the cloth by the pattern, and then cut in one-
fourth of an inch to a (Fig. 54).
4. Make a narrow fold on the inner edges of the facing,
and on the sides of the gusset make a fold turned to a
point at a.
5. Fold the edges of the opening in the garment.
6. With the wrong sides together, overhand the gusset,
and then the inner edges of the facing, to the opening in
the garment.
7. Hem the opposite edges.
What is a gusset? What is its use? How should the hem in the opening be
made? In setting-in a gusset, how is the point brought to the opening? What kind
of stitches are then taken? What kind of stitches are used after folding the gusset?


70
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
PLACKET.
A placket is an opening made in a garment.
Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 60 thread, and a piece
of cotton cloth five inches square, hemmed on three
sides.
Placket. — 1. At the middle of the side not hemmed,
cut three inches by a thread.
2. Hold the wrong side of the cloth towards you.
3. At the left of the opening, make a hem turned to a
point at the bottom, and one-eighth of an inch wide at the
top.
4. At the right, make a hem three-fourths of an inch
wide the entire length.
5. Turn to the right side of the cloth.
6. At the bottom of the wide hem make a horizontal
crease by a thread.
7. On the right side of the opening, make a vertical
crease by a thread, three-fourths of an inch from the
edge.
8. Place the edge of the wide hem on this crease.
9. Holding the hem carefully, baste with small
stitches, on the horizontal crease.
10. Make two rows of stitching, one a little below, and
one a little above the basting.
What is a placket? When the wrong side is towards you, how wide a hem is made
at the left? How wide at the right? How many rows of stitching are taken in
tacking the hem?


PLAITING.
73
The chief difficulty is in measuring and folding them;
when it is decided at what distance apart and what width
the tucks are to be made, a paper measure can be made
as follows. — Make a mark as far from the end of the
paper, as the sum of the distance apart and the width of
the tucks; make a second mark beyond the first mark,
the width of the tucks; make a third mark as far from
the second mark, as the sum of the distance apart and
twice the width of the tucks; make a fourth mark
beyond the third mark, the width of the tucks; continue
as for the third and fourth marks. When two tucks have
been made, the next can be easily marked by folding the
wrong side together at the second tuck, and making pin-
holes at the folds of the first tuck. The edge of one
tuck may form the guide for measuring the next, though
it is better to mark and baste all the tucks for a short
distance. Narrow tucks, one-eighth of an inch apart, are
neat and pretty, but must be made very carefully, as the
difference of a thread is quickly noticed.
What is a tuck? What is its use? How should the tucks be sewed? Which
way of the cloth can they be made? What is the chief difficulty in making tucks?
PLAITING.
A plait is a fold made in a garment, for fulness or
trimming.
Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 50 thread, pins, and a
piece of cloth nine and a half inches long and four inches
wide, with a narrow hem at the ends and lower edge.
Plaiting.— 1. On the raw edge of the cloth, with the
right side towards you, measure one inch from the right-


74
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
hand end, and mark it by cutting a small notch or insert-
ing a pin vertically.
2. Mark every inch and a half to the left of this.
3. Fold the cloth at the first notch, and bring the fold
to the edge of the hem.
4. Insert a pin in the middle of the three thicknesses of
cloth.
5. Fold at the next notch, and bring it exactly to the
underfold of the first plait.

Fig. 57.— Showing basted plaits, half-an-inch wide-
6. Place a pin in the middle of the plait.
7. Fold and pin the other plaits in the same way.
8. Baste with even stitches, one-fourth of an inch from
the edge (Fig. 57).
Suggestions. — Plaits can be laid either to the right or
to the left. There can be spaces between the plaits, or
they can meet, as in Fig. 57. If the plaits meet, the
material must be three times the length that is desired,
when finished. Box-plaiting is made by beginning at the


SLIP OR BLIND-STITCH.
77
4. Cut the ravellings from the edges of the seam.
5. Turning the wrong side of the calico towards you,
fold the right sides together, and crease at the sewing of
the seam.
6. Baste, so that the raw edges are enclosed.
7. Half-backstitch the seam, being careful that no
ravellings can be seen on the right side.
Suggestion. — Trimming can be put on in this manner,
having the seam very narrow.
What is a French seam? Which sides of the cloth should be placed together?
How wide a seam should be made? With what kind of stitches should the seam be
finished?
FRENCH HEM ON DAMASK.
French hemming is used in hemming table-linen.
Materials. — No. 9 needle, No. 70 thread, and a strip of
cotton cloth or table-linen.
French hem.— 1. Crease a narrow hem.
2. Holding the wrong side towards you, fold and crease
the cloth, so as to make it even with the first fold of the
hem.
3. Proceed as in overhanding.
SLIP OR BLIND-STITCH.
A slip or blind-stitch is used to fasten a hem lightly.
Materials. — No. 9 needle, No. 70 thread, and a strip of
cotton cloth.
Slip or blind-stitch. — 1. Fold and crease a hem half-an-
inch wide.


78
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
2. Baste about a fourth of an inch from the edge.
3. Make a small knot in the thread.
4. Conceal the knot by drawing the needle through
the under part of the fold, one-eighth of an inch from
the end.
5. Take up one or two threads of the cloth, and before
drawing the needle through, take up one-fourth of an
inch of the edge of the fold.
6. Continue in this manner, being careful not to draw
the thread tightly.
7. Fasten securely.
Suggestions. — This stitch is used for sewing hems on
woollen cloth, where it is desired to conceal the stitches.
Trimmings of silk and velvet are often put on with this
stitch.
For what is a slip or blind-stitch used? How are the stitches taken?
EDGINGS AND RUFFLES.
An edging is a trimming on the border of a garment.
Lace Edging.
Lace edging is made of fine threads woven into a net.
Materials.—No. 9 needle, No. 70 thread, pins, half-
a-yard of inch-wide lace, and a piece of cotton cloth
six inches long and four inches wide, with a narrow hem
at the ends and upper edge, and an inch hem at the lower
edge.
Lace edging. — 1. Holding the scalloped edge towards
you, make a narrow hem at the right-hand end of the lace.


EDGINGS AND RUFFLES.
81
six inches long and one and a half inches wide ; for the
ruffle, a piece of cambric nine inches long and two inches
wide, with a very narrow hem at the ends and lower edge.
A ruffle faced on. — i. Mark the raw edges of the ruffle
and the cloth, by notches, into halves and quarters. Also
mark the middle of the facing by a notch.
2. Gather the ruffle.
3. Place the right sides of the cloth and ruffle together,
and pin at the corresponding notches.
4. Draw up the gathering thread, and fasten around the
pin.
5. Adjust the gathers, and run exactly on the gathering
thread.
6. Pin the middle and ends of the facing to the ruffle,
and baste.
7. Turn the other side towards you, and half-backstitch
close below the running stitches.
8. Take out the basting threads.
9. Turn the facing over and crease it carefully at the
seam.
10. Baste and hem the opposite edge of the facing.
Suggestions. — A heading on a ruffle can be made by
folding the required width for the heading, and gathering
it, making one or more rows as desired. The fulness of
the ruffle depends upon the material; a narrow cambric
ruffle should be about one and a half times the length of
the part to which it is to be sewed. In making a ruffle of
more than one breadth, the ends should be joined neatly
before hemming or gathering.
What is an edging? Of what is lace edging made? How should the lace be held
in overhanding? What allowance for fulness should be made in turning a corner?
How should lace be sewed on, when fulness is required? What is Hamburg edging?
In what ways can it be sewed on, when there is no fulness? When fulness is required?
From what are ruffles made? What is first done to the ruffle, the cloth, and the facing?


82
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
WHIPPING.
Whipping is forming gathers by overcasting a rolled
edge of fine material, and drawing up the thread.
Materials. — No. 6 and No. 8 needles, No. 40 and No. 60
thread, pins, scissors, a strip of paper, and a piece of
cotton cloth six inches long and four inches wide, with a
narrow hem on the ends and upper edge, and an inch hem
on the lower edge; for the ruffle, a piece of plain cambric,
twelve inches long and two inches wide, with a narrow
hem on the ends and one side.

Fig. 61, — Showing the rolling and overcasting of the ruffle.
Whipping. — 1. Practise rolling tightly the edge of the
piece of paper. It must be rolled, not folded.
2. Divide the edge of the inch hem, and the raw edge
of the cambric, into halves and quarters, and mark, one
inch from the edge, by cross-stitches.
3. Trim the ravellings from the raw edge.
4. Hold the wrong side of the cambric towards you.
5. Beginning at the right-hand corner, roll the first
half-inch of the cambric towards you, between the thumb
and the forefinger of the left hand.


WHIPPING.
83
6. Take the coarse needle and thread, and make a small
knot.
7. Inserting the needle at the corner, under the roll,
take one or two stitches, to fasten the end.
8. Hold the end of the roll between the right thumb
and forefinger, and, placing the cambric between the third
and little finger of the left hand, draw tightly.
9. Pressing the left thumb against the forefinger, rub
an inch of the edge upwards and downwards, until a
small, firm roll is made.
10. Overcast, as far as the cloth is rolled tightly, insert-
ing the needle under the roll (Fig. 61).
11. Draw up the thread, holding it on a line with the
raw edge. If the roll is small, and the stitches are taken
loosely and at regular intervals, the ruffle will draw easily
on the thread.
12. Continue, rolling and whipping an inch or two at a
time.
13. Placing the right sides of the ruffle and hem to-
gether, pin the divisions of the ruffle to the divisions of the
hem.
14. Draw up the ruffle to the length of the hem, and
wind the thread around the pin.
1 5. Holding the ruffle towards you, overhand, inserting
the needle in each fold of the whipping, so that the thread
will lie between the folds (Fig. 62).
16. Fasten both the whipping and the overhanding
thread.
Suggestions. — The fingers should be perfectly clean, to
prevent soiling the work. In whipping, some prefer to
take hemming stitches instead of overcasting stitches.
A ruffle, for whipping, should be twice the length of the


84
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
part to which it is to be sewed; it is sometimes advisable
to make it more than twice as full. A ruffle cut across the
cloth whips easier than one cut lengthwise. A fine ma-
terial whips more readily than a coarse one. Ruffles
should be cut by a thread, which can be done by tearing,
and then trimming the edges.

Fig. 62. — Showing the overhanding of the ruffle to the cloth.
It is best to use short lengths of thread, as a great strain
comes, when the ruffle is drawn. In making a long ruffle,
have a thread for each division, and measure as you draw
the thread. The thread will draw easier, if a large needle
is used. When corners are to be turned, allow extra ful-
ness, so that the ruffle will lie flat (page 79). In over-
handing a ruffle, the garment can be held towards you, but,
if the whipping thread should prove too short, there is no
way to lengthen it ; while, if the ruffle is held towards you,
the thread can be drawn up or lengthened.
What is whipping? In whipping, which side of the ruffle should be held towards
you? How do you begin? What kind of a needle and thread should be used? How
is the roll held? How rolled? What is done next? How is the thread drawn?
How continue? How is the ruffle sewed on to the hem?


STOCKINET DARNING.
87
8. With the needle pointing towards you, make the
next row of three stitches, taking up the threads of the
stockinet, that were passed over in the preceding row.
9. So continue, making each row a little longer at both
top and bottom, as in Fig. 64, till the centre of the circle
is reached; then decrease in the same proportion
(Fig. 64).

Fig. 64. — Showing a hole cut, and partly darned.
10. Be careful to put the needle through the loops of
the stockinet, at the edge of the circle.
11. Cross the darn in the same manner, making per-
fect lattice-work, (Fig. 64).
Suggestions. — The stockinet is put on the cardboard to
keep it in place while being worked, and silk is used that
the stitches may be easily seen, and also that the lesson
may be interesting. In mending a stocking, hold the


88
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
work across three fingers of the left hand. A darning
ball can be used, which prevents the fingers from being
pricked, but it is apt to stretch' the stocking and the darn.
The darning can be done on either side of the stocking,
and should be worked as far as the stocking shows signs
of weakness; it should first be worked vertically and
parallel to the ribs of the stocking. Loops of about one-
sixteenth of an inch can be left at each end, to provide
for shrinkage; stretching the darn slightly, when it is
finished, will take up these loops.
The edge of a darn must never be made on one thread,
as a single thread is not strong enough to bear the strain;
a diamond or oval shape is better. It is wise to darn a
thin place before a hole appears. In mending a large
hole, draw out the rough ends, and, using a fine needle
and thread, bring the loops or threads as near as pos-
sible to their proper position. To retain the proper
shape of a large darn, begin the crossing at the middle
instead of the end. The darning yarn should correspond
in color and quality to the stocking. If too coarse a yarn
is used, a hard bunch is made.
For what is stockinet darning used? How should the stockinet be held? Where
should the darning begin? How is the first row made? How is the second row
made? How continue? What care should be taken at the edge of the circle? How
should a darn be crossed? In mending a stocking how should the work be held?
What are the best shapes for darning?


90
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
opposite the last upper loop, bring it out in the next loop
(Fig. 65, d).
7. Continue, taking two upper loops, then two under
loops, using one new loop each time, which will cause the
needle to be inserted twice in each loop.
8. Fasten the yarn, by darning it in and out on the
wrong side.
Swiss-darning. —The stitches in Swiss-darning are taken
in a manner similar to grafting, and are worked over the
stitches in the stockinet, to strengthen a thin place.
Suggestions. — A patch in stockinet can be put in almost
invisibly as follows : cut a square or oblong hole in the
stockinet, carefully, by a thread, and ravel the sides until
the loops are even ; cut the patch, by a thread, the exact
size of the hole, and clear the loops ; graft in the top and
lower edges, and Swiss-darn the side edges together,
working over four or five stitches at each side of the
joining.
What is grafting? What is first done? How are the edges placed together? How
are the stitches taken? How are the stitches taken in Swiss darning?
STOCKING-WEB STITCH.
Stocking-web stitches are used for filling in a hole in
stockinet, so as to present the same - appearance as the
woven stockinet, and are made on a foundation of strands.
Materials. — A long-eyed needle, No. 7 needle, No. 40
thread, a piece of coarse stockinet three inches square,
yarn to match in color and quality, and a piece of card-
board two inches square.


CLOTH DARNING.
9S
3. On a line, slanting so as to cut off one-eighth of an
inch on the opposite line, take six running stitches, bring-
ing the needle out a little below the upper line (Fig.
70, b), and leaving an end of the thread to be cut of later.
4. Insert the needle above the line, and pointing it
towards you, take six stitches on a line, all having the
same slant. Bring the needle out above the lower line at
the sixth stitch.
5. Insert the needle below the lower line and take six
stitches, having the same slant as before; at the fourth
stitch, draw the needle down through the tear (Fig. 70, c).
6. Continue in this manner, always drawing the needle
down through the tear, at the fourth stitch.
7. In finishing the darn, make several rows beyond the
tear.
Bias-Darn.
Materials. — Same as for a straightway-darn (page 93).
Bias-darn, or across both the warp and the woof. — A
blue thread represents the tear.
1. Crease the square of cloth diago-
nally from corner to corner.
2. Leaving two inches at each end,
run on the crease with blue
thread. /'
3. Make two creases, one,
one-fourth of an inch above; -'
and one, one-fourth of an'
inch below the running.' ,'
4. Leaving an inch and a ,'
fourth at both ends, make a
running on each crease with pink thread.

Fig. ,71. — Showing
a bias-darn,


96
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
5. Thread the needle with red thread.
6. At the right, and beyond the blue line or tear,
make four rows of eight stitches each, (as for a straight-
way-darn, page 94) on a line with the vertical threads of
the cloth (Fig. 71).
7. Beginning the fifth row above the lower line, draw
the needle down through the tear at the fourth stitch
(Fig. 71, c).
8. Take three more stitches, bringing the needle out
below the upper line.
9. Insert the needle above the line, to finish the row;
drawing it out below the line for the next row.
10. Continue in this manner, always drawing the
needle down through the tear, at the fourth stitch.
11. In finishing the darn, make several rows beyond
the tear.
Corner-Darn.
Materials. — Same as for a straightway-darn (page 93).
Corner-darn. — A blue thread represents the tear.
a . 1. Crease one side of the
\V\ '1 cloth one inch from the edge.
sF^m 1 2. At right angles with
the crease, make another
i\- - crease one inch from the
V Fig. 72. — Snow-
, ing the cloth edge.
1 prepared for 3 Call the vertex of the
1 practice in , /T,. .
, darning a cor- angle a (Fl&- 72).
ner-tear,andthe 4. With the pink thread
'corner darned. nm Qn the crease, on both
sides of the angle, one and a half inches from point a
(Fig. 72).


CLOTH DARNING.
97
5. Crease an angle half-an-inch inside the first
angle.
6. With the pink thread, run on the crease, on both
sides of the angle, one inch (Fig. 72).
7. Crease half-way between the two angles, and run with
blue thread.
8. Using red thread, make a large knot (cut it off after-
wards), and insert the needle from the right side, at the
corner (Fig. 72, b). The knot is made to aid in drawing
up the corner.
9. Run to point a, putting the needle down through
the tear, at the fourth stitch.
10. Slightly curving to the right, return to point b.
11. Make a row very close and to the left of the first
row, taking the stitches alternately.
12. Slightly curving to the left, return to point b.
13. At the left, make a row directly on a line with a
thread of the cloth, to the outer pink line.
14. Make a curved line at the right to point b.
15. On the opposite side of the corner, make a row on
a line with a thread of the cloth, as far as the outer pink
line.
16. Making a line, curving to the left, return to
point b.
17. Beginning at the corner, darn both sides with ver-
tical stitches (page 94), or slanting stitches (page 94).
Darning with a Piece Underneath.
In darning a tear, where the garment is worn thin, or is
badly torn and ravelled, a piece of cloth should be placed
underneath.


CLOTH DARNING.
99
being careful to insert the needle in the cloth exactly
where it came out.
Another way to darn a tear on heavy material is to
overcast the raw edges closely together, on the wrong side,
then rub the seam open and darn lightly.
Lay a wet cloth over the darn, and press.
To make a perfectly flat seam on sel-
vedges or heavy woollen cloth, the edges
may be joined, as in Fig. 73.
Suggestions. — The aim in darning a tear
is to repair the rent so nicely that it can
not be perceived. In darning twilled ma-
terial, instead of taking the stitches alter-
nately, make them in slanting rows to cor-
Fig. 73. respond with the twill. A rent should be
repaired with fine thread or silk, matching
the material in quality and color; if the same color can
not be obtained, use lengthwise ravellings of the material.
On fine woollen goods, hair can be used, and the needle
should be threaded with the root. When darning with
very fine thread or ravellings, use short needlefuls. As
fine a needle as possible should be used.
Darning can be done on the right or wrong side, accord-
ing to the material. For a tear in coarse material, the
stitches should be taken more than one-fourth of an inch
from the edge. The closeness of the rows of stitches
depends upon the material and the tear. Edges should
always be worked in and out alternately to secure them.
Always protect the ends of a tear by darning beyond them.
To keep the edges of a long tear even, it is best to begin
to darn in the middle. When a darn is finished, it should


104
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
sented by the large piece of cloth, through, and across the
centre (Fig. 74).
2. Cut a small piece out of the centre, to aid later in
cutting the hole.
3. Cut across each corner of the patch one-fourth of an
inch deep.

Fig.77. — Showingthewrongsideofa figured-calico patch, overhanded.
4. Holding the wrong side of the patch towards you,
make a crease, by a thread, one-fourth of an inch deep, on
the four sides.
5. Crease through, and across the centre of the patch.
6. Place the garment on the desk, with the right side
upwards.


io6
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
3. Crease a square, by a thread, on a line with the pins.
4. Cut the square out on the creasing, being careful in
cutting the corners.
5. Crease through, and across the centre of the patch.
6. Place the garment on the desk, with the wrong side
upwards.
Fig. 78. — Showing the right side of the patch; the straight lines repre-
sent the edges of the hole.
7. Place the right side of the patch upon the garment,
with the nap of the two pieces running the same way.
8. Match the creases, and put in pins.
9. With each edge of the patch even with a thread of
the garment, baste one-fourth of an inch from the edge.


PATCHING.
10. Holding the garment towards you, baste one-fourth
of an inch from the edge of the hole.
11. Draw the needle through the garment from under-
neath, one-eighth of an inch from the raw edge.
12. Catch-stitch (see page 117) around the square, taking
the inner stitches through the patch, close to the edge of

Fig. 79. — Showing the wrong side of the patch; the straight lines
represent the edges of the patch.
the garment ; and the outside stitches one-eighth of an
inch from the edge, and through both thicknesses of cloth
(Fig. 78).
13. Turning the wrong side towards you, catch-stitch in
the same manner, the edges of the patch to the garment
(Fig- 79)-


io8
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
14. Take out the basting threads, and press on the
wrong side.
Suggestions. — In practical mending, judgment and con-
sideration are necessary, and the material should be treated
as common sense suggests; the object is to replace the
torn or worn part with as little display as possible.
A patch can be put on in various ways : as, hemming
on the right side and overcasting the raw edges together
on the wrong side; it can also be put on by stitching.
A patch can be overhanded on the wrong side, so that the
stitches may show less, but the corners are not easily
turned. Catch-stitching should be used, when the material
does not easily ravel, as on flannel. Thin, woollen materials
can be hemmed. When a material is worn, it is better to
hem the patch on, for, if it is overhanded, the strain comes
on one thread at each side.
Stripes, checks and figures should akvays match, as
otherwise they attract attention. Care must be taken to
have the warp and the woof of the patch run the same way
as those of the garment, the straightest threads of the
cloth generally represent the warp. The nap must also
run in the same direction, which can be ascertained by
passing the hand lightly over it. A patch can be either
square or oblong, according to the shape of the damaged
part, but should be large enough to cover the worn place.
Fine thread or silk, matching the material, should be used;
silk should be chosen a shade darker than the material, as
it will work lighter.
What is a patch? What is its use? In hemming on a patch, on which side of
the garment should the patch be placed? On which side, in overhanding on a patch?
How should the wrong side of an overhanded patch be finished? What stitch is used
in patching flannel? Which side of the garment is the patch placed upon? What is
the object of patching? What care should be taken concerning the warp and the woof


BIAS PIECING.
IO9
BIAS PIECING.
Bias piecing is the joining of two diagonal edges of
cloth.
Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 60 thread, pins, scissors,
and a piece of calico five inches square, cut by a thread.

Fig. 80. — Showing the strips placed in a line before joining.
Bias piecing.— 1. Fold the square diagonally, from
corner to corner.
2. Crease the fold, and cut on the crease.
3. From each piece of calico, cut two bias strips, each
being one inch wide.
4. With the right sides upwards, place the strips on the
desk in a line for joining, as in Fig. 80.

Fig. 81. — Showing the two edges sewed.
5. Place the right sides of the two middle pieces
together, with the edges of the ends that are to meet
even.
6 Move the edge of the upper piece, one-fourth of an
inch to the left (Fig. 81).


I IO
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
7. Holding the edges securely, insert the needle at a
(Fig. 81) and sew across to b (Fig. 81), with a running
and a backstitch.
8. Press open the seam, and cut off the corners that
protrude.
9. Join the other two pieces in a similar manner,
except that the upper edge must be moved to the right.
Suggestions. — To join the ends evenly, the seam must
be begun at the vertex of one of the angles, formed at
the side by the two pieces of cloth, and finished at the
other. When many bias strips are required, they can be
easily and accurately cut, by measuring for four widths,
and then cutting into halves and quarters.
What is bias piecing? Where should you begin so as to join the ends evenly?
Where finish?
PIPING.
Piping is a cord covered with material cut on the bias,
and is used to strengthen and finish the edge of a
garment.
Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 60 thread, a small cord
eleven and a half inches long, a bias strip of cotton cloth
twelve inches long and one inch wide and a piece of
cotton cloth eleven and a half inches long, four inches
wide, hemmed at the ends and one side.
Piping. — 1. Place the cord on the wrong side of the
bias strip, one-fourth of an inch from the lengthwise
edge, and one-fourth of an inch from the end.
2. Fold the end of the bias strip, and then folding the
edge over, baste close to the cord.


CORNERS MITRED. I I I
3. Holding the cord downwards, place the wrong side of
the strip to the right side of the piece of cloth, with the
raw edge of the fold even with the raw edge of the cloth.
4. Sew the piping to the edge, with a running and a
backstitch, keeping close to the cord.
5. Turn to the wrong side, and hem the opposite edge
down.
What is piping? For what is it used?
CORNERS MITRED.
To mitre a corner is to join two edges of cloth, so that
they form a right angle.
To mitre Two Strips of Cloth.
Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 60 thread, scissors, and
a piece of calico five inches square, cut by a thread.
To mitre two strips of cloth. — 1. Fold and
crease the square diagonally from corner to
corner.
2. Cut on the
crease.
3. From one of
the pieces cut two
bias strips, each
strip being one inch
wide.
4. Place the
right sides of the strips of calico
Fig. 83.-Showingthe right together, so that the two ends are
side of a mitred corner. exactly even (Fig. 82).

Fig. 82. —Show-
ing the two
ends basted.





PART III.
ORNAMENTAL STITCHES.
HEM-STITCH.
Hem-stitching is a method of hemming, in which the
threads of the cloth are drawn and separated.
Materials. — No. 8 needle, No. 50 thread, and a length-
wise strip of linen crash.
Hem-stitch, from right to left. — 1. One inch from a
lengthwise edge of the
cloth, draw out from
four to six threads (see
suggestions) according
to the coarseness of the
cloth.
2. Carefully baste the
hem to the line thus
drawn.
3. Begin at the right-hand side, as for hemming.
4. Pointing the needle towards you, take up three or
four cross-threads, and draw the thread through.
5. Put the needle back, take up the same threads, and
insert the needle exactly above in the fold of'the hem
(Fig. 87).

Fig. 87. — Showing hem-stitching done
from right to left, needle in position.


n6
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
6. Continue in the same manner, drawing the thread
tight, to separate the cross-threads.
Hem-stitch, from left to right. — i. Draw the threads,
and baste the hem as
before.
2. Fasten the thread
in the hem, at the left-
hand side.
3. Pointing the needle
towards you, take up
Fig. 88. — Showing hem-stitching done three or four cross-
from left to right, needle in position.
threads.
4. Draw the needle through, and insert it in the fold of
the hem exactly above where it was inserted under the
cross-threads (Fig. 88).
5. Continue in the same manner, drawing the thread
tight.
Suggestions. — To draw the threads, choose a coarse
thread, one-fourth of an inch from the edge, and pick it
out with the point of the needle. Holding this end with
the right hand, draw it out carefully, continually pushing
the gathers towards the opposite end with the left hand.
Should the thread break, hold the cloth to the light, and
again pick out the end of the thread. The chief difficulty
is in drawing the first thread. Threads can be drawn any
width desired.
Hem-stitching can be done either lengthwise or cross-
wise of the cloth. On fine materials, do not count the
threads, as it is too great a strain on the eyes, and for
this reason, school-girls should not do much drawn-work.


CATCH-STITCH.
117
CATCH OR HERRINGBONE-STITCH.
Catch-stitch is a kind of cross-stitch, used to secure the
edges of flannel.
Materials. — A long-eyed needle, a knot of split zephyr,
and a piece of canvas.

Fig. 89. — Showing catch- Fig. 90. — Showing a corner turned,
stitches, and the needle in and the needle in position for turning
position; the straight lines a corner,
represent the threads of
the canvas.
Catch-stitch. — 1. Work from you, holding the canvas
over the left forefinger.
2. Insert the needle from underneath, at the lower
left-hand corner.
3. From the place where the zephyr comes out, count
to the right four threads, then forward four threads;


n8
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
insert the needle, and pointing it towards you take up
two threads.
4. From the place where the zephyr comes out, count
to the left four threads, then forward four threads, and
take up two threads as before.
5. Continue in the same manner, making the stitches
to the right, then to the left; the zephyr crossing diago-
nally (Fig. 89).
6. Notice that the little cross at one side, comes
between the crosses on the opposite side, and that the
needle comes out on a line with its insertion for the pre-
vious stitch.
7. Turn the corner, by taking a stitch, at the left,
insert the needle at the right, and pointing it towards the
left, take up two threads (Fig. 90). Turn the canvas, and
holding the next side across the left forefinger, continue
as before (Fig. 90).
Suggestions. — In catch-stitching on flannel, small knots
may be made if they can be concealed. When ending,
fasten the thread by running it in and out under the last
stitch. The thread can be fastened in beginning and
finishing, by leaving an end to be sewed over and over
with fine cotton on the wrong side.
The raw edge of a hem on woollen material may be
fastened by catch-stitches, to avoid the ridge formed by
folding the edge. The edges of a seam in flannel may be
fastened in several ways; the seam may be folded to one
side, and the edges fastened by a row of catch-stitches;
the seam may be opened and each edge fastened sepa-
rately; or, with the seam opened, a row of catch-stitches
may be put in the middle.


FEATHER-STITCH.
119
FEATHER-STITCH.
Feather-stitching is used for ornamenting garments, etc.
Materials. — A long-eyed needle, a knot of split zephyr,
and a piece of canvas.

Fig. 91.—a, Showing single feather-stitches, taken on a line with the
threads of the cloth; b, showing double feather-stitches, taken on
a line with the threads of the cloth; c, showing single feather-
stitches, taken slanting across the threads of the cloth; d, showing
double feather-stitches, taken slanting across the threads of the
cloth; f, showing treble feather-stitches, taken slanting across the
threads of the cloth.
Feather-stitch. — 1. Work towards you, holding the
canvas over the left forefinger.
2. Draw the needle through from underneath at the
upper left-hand corner (Fig. 91, b).
3. From the place where the zephyr comes out, count
two threads to the right, insert the needle, and pointing
it towards you take up two threads of the canvas.


120
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
4. Draw the needle out over the zephyr, which is held
down by the thumb.
5. From the place where the zephyr comes out, count
two threads to the right, and take a stitch as before.
6. From the place where the zephyr comes out, count
two threads to the left, and take a stitch, being careful to
hold the zephyr down with the thumb.
7. From the place where the zephyr comes out, count
two threads to the left, and take another stitch. *
8. Continue taking the stitches in this way (Fig. 91, b).
Suggestions. — For fastening the thread see catch-
stitching (page 118). This stitch may be changed into
various designs, as in Fig. 91. Whatever the pattern,
the stitches should be compact and uniform.
CHAIN-STITCH.
Chain-stitching is a method of em-
broidering, by which the stitches
resemble a chain.
Materials. — An embroidery needle,
embroidery silk, and a strip of cloth.
Chain-stitch. — 1. Work towards you,
holding the cloth over the left fore-
finger.
2. Draw the needle through from
underneath at the upper end, a short
distance from the edge.
3. Holding the thread to the left
with the thumb, insert the needle where
the thread comes out, and bring it

Fig. 92. — Showing
chain-stitches,
needle in position.


BLAN KET-STITCH. I 2 3
7. Continue in this manner.
8. To fasten the thread, turn to the wrong side, take a
running stitch under the last blanket-stitch. Draw the
thread through, and cut it off.
Fig. 95. — Showing blanket-stitches taken in different forms.
9. To join the thread, put the needle in under the last
stitch, as in beginning the work, and draw it out over the
thread that lies along the edge.
Suggestions,— If the
thread is not fastened
and joined carefully,
the symmetry of the
stitches will be broken.
The order of the
stitches may be varied
by taking them at dif-
ferent depths, and
leaving spaces between, as in Fig. 95.
A pretty border can be made with this stitch (Fig. 96),
by making the first row the desired width from the edge,
and taking the stitches for the second row through those
of the first row, and so on.

Fig. 96. — Showing a bor-
der of blanket-stitches,
needle in position.


124
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
EMBROIDERY KNOTS.

Embroidery knots are used for ornamentation.
Materials. — An embroidery needle, embroidery silk,
and a piece of flannel.
Embroidery knot No. 1. — i. Holding
the flannel over the left forefinger,
draw the needle through from under-
neath, at the place desired for the
knot.
2. Take a small backstitch leaving
the needle half-way through the flannel.
3. Take the
silk, where it
comes through the
flannel, and wind
Fig. 97 — Showing em- jt tw;ce arQund the
broidery knot No. I ,
and the needle in needle (Fig. 97).
position. 4. Holding the
coil under the left thumb, draw the
needle through and insert it where
it came through the flannel, bringing
it out where the next knot is to be
made. Fig' 98 — Showin£ em"
broidery knot No. 2,
Embroidery knot No. 2.— i. Holdi ng and the needle in
the flannel over the left forefinger, position,
draw the needle through from underneath, at the place
desired for the knot.
2. Draw the silk towards you to the left; holding it
under the thumb, bring the silk to the right, and cross
below where the silk came out of the flannel (Fig. 98, a).
Hold the loop thus formed under the thumb.


MARKING.
125
3. Insert the needle one or two threads back of a,
bring it out at a, and pass it through the loop (Fig. 98).
4. Draw the needle and silk out straight upwards.
5. Insert the needle again at a, and bring it out where
the next knot is to be made.
MARKING.
Page 126 consists of capital letters ; page 127 consists
of small letters and upright numerals ; page 128 consists
of small letters, suitable for fine material, and slanting
numerals.
The- material, thread and needle should correspond.
The marking stitch consists of a cross-stitch taken over
two threads of the canvas. To make the stitch, draw the
needle through from underneath at the lower right-hand
corner of the square for the stitch; insert the needle at
the upper left-hand corner, bringing it out at the lower
left-hand corner; insert the needle at the upper right-hand
corner, and bring it out at the lower right-hand corner of
the next stitch.
Make no knots, but leave an end of the thread to be
worked over with the first stitches, or it can afterwards
be run in and out under the letter. Fasten the thread in
the same manner. The stitches should all be crossed the
same way; the thread should be fastened after finishing
a letter, not carried from one to another. Have the back
of the work look neat.
When marking on canvas is understood, fine material
can be easily marked, by basting a piece of scrim over the
place to be worked, and, after taking the stitches, draw-
ing out the threads of the scrim.






127





PART IV.
DRAFTING, CUTTING, AND MAKING
GARMENTS.
A few general directions for the cutting of garments
are here given.
A table or lap-board, large enough to lay the entire
pattern upon, is required; also paper, sharp shears,
weights, pins, tape-measure, needles, and thread.
The first thing to be observed in cutting is whether the
cloth has a right and a wrong side. If it has a design,
consider the heavier part as the bottom; a vine should
run upwards; the nap on the cloth should run down-
wards.
Before cutting, ascertain if there is sufficient cloth by
laying the different parts of the pattern upon the cloth in
such positions, that the cloth will not be unnecessarily
wasted; being careful in regard to the up and down of
the cloth. When there is a scarcity of material, the
underneath parts of the sleeves may be pieced, hems may
be faced, and the small pieces may often be used for the
trimmings.
The length of the main parts of a garment (as back,
front, and sleeves) should be cut parallel to the selvedge
or warp of the cloth. Fig. 102 represents a wrapper
placed on cloth, which is folded lengthwise through the
129


130
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK..
middle; the edge of the

Fig. I 02. — Wrapper.
is placed on the selvedge, and
the back on the fold of the
cloth, to avoid a seam at the
back of the skirt. The ver-
tical perforations in the side-
back and both portions of the
sleeve are placed lengthwise
of the cloth. The perfora-
tions near the edges of the
patterns show the seams,
where alterations should be
made. The perforations near
the centre of the front indi-
cate where the darts should
be taken up.
In cutting plain goods, two
similar parts can be cut at
once by folding either the
right or the wrong sides to-
gether ; the selvedges or edges
of the material should first be
pinned together to prevent
slipping. When the cloth can
not be doubled, great care
must be taken not to cut
similar parts (as sleeves) for
the same side; this can al-
ways be avoided by laying
one part upon the material,
with either the right or
wrong sides together.
Having the cloth spread


132
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
from a checked or evenly plaided material are cut off in
the middle of a check, the breadths will readily match.
In other plaids or designs, cut the lower edge of each
breadth on the same line of the plaid or design. In cut-
ting a garment, similar to a dress-waist, which opens in
front, first decide what part of the plaid, stripe, or design
will look best for the middle of the front and back. Then
lay the pattern for the front on the cloth, so that the
outer fold of the hem is one-eighth of an inch (or one-half
of the width to be lapped) beyond the middle desired.
Cut this side out, and cut the other half of the front, by
laying the part already cut on the cloth, with the right
sides together, and plaids or designs exactly matching.
Lay the pattern for the back on the cloth, so that the
back edge of the pattern is one-fourth of an inch beyond
the middle desired ; this allows for the seam. Cut the
other half of the back as in cutting the second half of the
front.
In order to cut twilled material on the bias, with the
twill perpendicular, the cloth must be folded at right
angles to the twill. To do this, lay the cloth lengthwise
on the table, with the right side downward, fold over the
lower right-hand corner, and cut on the fold. Linings for
broad hems or a curved edge (as a hat) should be cut on
the bias (see page n).
Cotton cloth, calico, or flannel may be torn (page 9),
when a straight edge is required ; linen should be cut by
first drawing a thread (page 116).
Drafting. — The following rules for drafting are given
as suitable in ordinary cases, but the drafter should use
discretion in regard to personal taste and prevailing
styles.


TWO-BREADTH APRON.
133
In the illustrations, each square represents an inch.
Dots are marked by letters, lines are marked by numbers.
Remember that the dot is the important mark, the letter
being but a name to the dot, and may be placed in any
convenient position near the dot.
TWO-BREADTH APRON.
A two-breadth apron, one yard long, having a four inch
hem, requires two and one-fourth yards of material.
1. Find half of the length of the material, tear across,
or fold and cut on the fold.
2. Fold the lengthwise edges of one of the pieces
together.
3. One and one-half inches each side of the fold, tear
the entire length, or fold again one and one-half inches
from the edge of the fold and cut both thicknesses of
material on the last fold. This gives a strip for the bind-
ing and the two side-breadths.
Making. — Sew the raw edges of the side-breadths to
the front-breadth, thus avoiding a seam in the middle. If
desired, hem the sides. Make a four inch hem at the
lowgr edge, overhanding the ends of the hem before
hemming. Gather the upper edge and put it into the
band, being very careful to sew securely at the ends of
the gathers, as this is where a strain comes. The fulness
of the gathers depends upon the width of the material
and the form of the person. Overhand the edges of the
band together on each side of the gathers. If strings
are desired, they should be cut before sewing the breadths
together. Make a narrow hem at the sides of the


136
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
Fold the edges of the pocket together, with the facings on
the outside. Beginning one-fourth of an inch below A
(Fig. 104), make a French seam at the side and across
the lower edge of the pocket. On the bias edge measure
six inches from the seam, and from this point, stitch to C
(Fig. 104). Turn the pocket inside out. In a seam of
the skirt, beginning four and a half inches from the bind-
ing (this distance depends upon the length of the arm),
make a slit six inches long, and fasten each end securely.
&
B
Ni
vmt
Scl
I

Figs. 104 and I 05. — Pockets,
With the facing of the pocket to the right side of the
skirt, place the lower seams exactly together; baste, and
stitch the pocket in. After overcasting, turn the pocket.
Fold the edges in from B to C and overhand them. Lay
■


child's drawers.
137
a small plait at the upper end of the pocket, and tack it
securely to the binding.
Fig. 105 shows another way of cutting a pocket, which
is to be inserted in the opening of the skirt between A
and B.
CHILD'S DRAWERS.
(Age, 8 Years.)
Take a piece of paper twenty-two inches long and four-
teen inches wide.
1. Place the narrow side of the paper horizontally in
front of you.
2. Write your name and school two inches from the
left-hand side of the paper, and eight inches above the
lower edge. Under the name of the school, put in a
column the words, waist measure, twenty-two inches ; leg
measure, seventeen inches ; knee measure, thirteen inches.
3. Mark the upper left-hand corner A, the upper right-
hand corner B, the lower left-hand corner C, and the lower
right-hand corner D (Fig. 106).
4. Make a dot two inches above C; mark it E.
5. Make a dot two inches above D; mark it F.
6. Draw a dash-line from E to F.
7. Fold the paper under on the line; this is for the
hem.
8. Make a dot seven and one-half inches above F;
mark it G.
9. Make a dot three inches below A ; mark it H.
10. Make a dot four inches to the left of B ; mark it /.
11. Draw a line from H to /.


138
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
12. Draw a line from G to /.
13. Make a dot eight and one-half inches to the right
of E; mark it J.
14. Draw a light dash-line from G to J.
A
! -
B
U
Na
ne
$
Sch
ool
Wai
st
mei
re
inc
het
—
L
sg
17
R
'ne
3
13
)
].:
-
—
J
F
a
I
\
D
Fig. 106. — Child's drawers.
15. Draw an inward-curving line from G to J, allowing
one-inch curve in the middle. Erase the dash-line.
16. Without unfolding the hem, cut the pattern on
the outside lines.


NIGHT-DRESS YOKE.
139
Making. — For drawers this size, one and one-fourth
yards of material are required. Fold the cloth lengthwise
fourteen inches from one of the edges, and pin the thick-
nesses of cloth together at the selvedge edge. Unfold
the hem, and lay the longest edge of the pattern on the
fold, with the lower edge at the raw edge of the cloth.
Carefully pin the pattern on, and then cut. Remove the
pattern, lay it on the other end of the cloth in the same
manner, and cut the other leg. For an opening at the
side, cut a slit on each fold seven and one-half inches
deep. Cut two lengthwise bindings, each three inches
wide and twelve inches long. The lower edge is cut by a
thread ; begin there to baste, and, if one side proves a
little longer than the other, pare it off. Sew each leg as
far as G (Fig. 106). Place the right sides of the legs
together, with the seams exactly meeting. Turn one
seam to the right, and the other to the left, and pin.
Beginning at G, sew the upper portions together. Fold
and sew the hem of each leg. At the side openings,
make narrow hems and set in gussets. If preferred, the
openings may be faced or bound. Leaving two inches at
each end, gather each side, and put on the bindings,
allowing more fulness at the middle.
NIGHT-DRESS YOKE.
(Bust Measure, 32 Inches.)
Take a piece of paper seventeen inches long and nine
inches wide.
Place the long side of the paper horizontally in front of
you.


140
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
Write your name and school three inches from the left-
hand side of the paper, and three inches above the lower
edge.
Front.— 1. Draw a vertical dash-line one and one-half
inches from the left-hand side of the paper.
2. Fold the paper under on the line, this is for the
hem.
3. Mark the upper left-hand corner of the paper A,
the upper right-hand corner B, the lower left-hand corner
C, the lower right-hand corner D (Fig. 107).
A
E
B
.
0
f -
J
—
If
.3
A
Nt
im
;
l
>
Sc
hex
1
>v
:C
D
Fig. 107. — Night-dress yoke,
4. Draw a vertical dash-line eight and one-half inches
from the left-hand side of the paper; mark it /.
5. Make a dot two and one-fourth inches to the right
of A ; mark it E.
6. Make a dot three and three-fourths inches below
A ; mark it F.
7. Make a dot one inch below E; one-eighth of an
inch to the right of this dot make another dot; mark the
last dot G.
8. Draw a light dash-line from F to G.


142 SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
I
6. Draw a line from K to L.
7. Make a dot, on line /, one-half of an inch above the
lower edge of the paper; mark it M.
8. Draw a light dash-line from L to M.
9. Draw an inward-curving line from L to M, allowing
seven-eighths of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the
dash-line.
'10. Draw a line from D to M.
11 Mark a notch on the curved line, one inch from L.
12. Mark a notch on the curved line, one inch from K.
13. Without unfolding the hem at the front, cut the
patterns on the outside lines, making the notches small.
CHILD'S SACK TIER
(Age, 2 Years.)
Take a piece of paper one yard long and twelve inches
wide.
Place the narrow side of the paper horizontally in front
of you. Mark the upper left-hand corner A, the upper
right-hand corner B, the lower left-hand corner C, the
lower right-hand corner D (Fig. 108).
Front. — 1. Make a dot twenty-one and one-half inches
above C; mark it E.
2. Make a dot two inches above E; one and one-half
inches to the right of this dot and parallel with it, make
another dot; mark it F.
3. Draw a light dash-line from E to F.
4. Draw an inward-curving line from E to F, allowing
three-fourths of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the
dash-line.



Fig. 108. —Child's sack tier.


child's sack tier.
145
7. Make a dot five inches to the right of M and par-
allel with M; mark it N.
8. Draw a light dash-line from M to TV.
9. Draw an outward-curving line from M to N, allowing
one and one-fourth inch curve at the middle. Erase
the dash-line.
10. Mark a notch at the middle of this curve.
1 1. Make a dot two and one-half inches to the right of
N and parallel with N; one and one-fourth inches
exactly below this dot make another dot; mark it O.
12. Draw a slightly inward-curving line from N to O.
13. Make a dot nine and one-half inches to the right
of K, and parallel with K; mark it P.
14. Draw a line from O to P.
1 5. Draw a line from K to P.
Take a piece of paper one yard long and eleven inches
wide.
Place the narrow side of the paper horizontally in front
of you. Mark the lower left-hand corner A; mark the
lower right-hand corner B.
Back. — 1. Make a dot one inch above A ; mark it C
2. Draw a light dash-line from B to C
3. Draw an outward-curving line from B to C, allowing
one-fourth of an inch curve at the middle. Erase the
dash-line.
4. Make a dot eighteen inches exactly above C; three
and one-half inches to the right of this dot, and parallel
with it, make another dot ; mark it D.
5. Draw a line from C to D.
6. Make a dot one inch to the right of D and parallel


CHILD S SACK TIER.
147
vedges of the cloth together, lay the longest side of the
back pattern on the selvedge edge, and cut the two backs
at once. With the right sides of the cloth folded
together, lay the lower edge of the sleeve pattern on a
woof thread of the cloth, and cut two sleeves at once.
Lay the narrow edge of the cuff pattern on a woof thread
of the cloth, and cut one cuff; cut the other cuff in a
similar manner. Baste an inch and a half hem at each
side of the opening in the back; baste the side and
shoulder-seams together, allowing half-an-inch seam. Try
the tier on, make any alterations necessary, and then
sew the seams. Make an inch hem at the lower edge.
Sew each sleeve together, making a narrow seam. Gather
the upper edge of each sleeve, leaving a space of two
inches each side of the seam. Gather the lower edge of
each sleeve, leaving a space of an inch and a half each
side of the seam. Sew the narrow edges of each cuff
together. Holding the right sides together stitch the
cuffs to the sleeves. Fold the cuffs over, and hem on the
wrong side at the stitching. Holding the sleeve towards
you, with the upper part of the sleeve marked M (Fig.
108) towards the front, and with the notch at the shoulder-
seam, sew the sleeve in. Bind or face the neck. Make
the button-holes, and put on the buttons. If strings are
desired make them each three inches wide and three-
fourths of a yard long; laying a plait, insert the strings
into the side-seams five inches below the arm-scye.


DRAWERS.
5

2
C
—
E
V
\
/
,—
—
L
—
r
-
111
N
OIL
s
0
* I
School
Wflis
t
U
V
—
—
K
lee
—
A
■i
a
Fig. 109. — Drawers.


child's waist.
153
CHILD'S WAIST (opening in the back).
(Age, 3 to 10 Years.)
Take a piece of paper sixteen inches long and twenty
inches wide.
1. Place the long side of the paper horizontally in
front of you.
2. Write your name and school three inches from the
left-hand side of the paper, and eight inches above the
lower edge. Under the name of the school, put in a
a column the words, waist measure, bust measure, length
from tape to back of neck, length from tape to waist,
length of shoulder.
3. Take the waist measure, and record it.
4. Take the bust measure by putting the tape-measure
around the body close under the arms; pin the ends to-
gether at the middle of the chest. Record this measure,
leaving the tape still in position.
5. Measure from tape to the bone in the back of the
neck, and record it.
6. Measure from tape to waist, and record it.
7. Measure the length of shoulder, and record it.
8. Draw a horizontal dash-line nine inches above the
lower edge of the paper; mark it / (Fig. 110).
9. Draw a vertical line two inches from the left-hand
edge of the paper; mark it 2.
10. Draw a vertical dash-line one inch to the right
of line 2; mark it j. This allows for the hem.
11. Find one-half of the bust measure, and at this
distance from line J draw a vertical line; mark it 4.
12. Bisect the distance between lines J and^, and half-


154
SCHOOL NEEDLEWORK.
an-inch to the left of the middle draw a vertical dash-line;
mark it 5.
13. Draw a horizontal dash-line from line J to line 4,
as many inches above line /, as is the measure "from tape
to neck"; mark it 6.
14. Draw a horizontal dash-line from line J to line ^,
as far below line /, as the measure "from tape to waist";
mark it J.

:
—
A
6
1
*
y
—
^»
F
2
3
t
\5 1
4
kt
Sc
Wt
1
{
—
7
---
1
ft
—
—
—
—
r
—
Fig. I 10, —Child's waist.
15. Draw a horizontal line two inches below line /;
mark it 8.
Back.
Neck. — 1. Make a dot one and one-half inches to the
right of line J, and one-fourth of an inch above line 6;
mark it A.


child's waist.
2. Make a dot at the junction of lines J and 6; mark
it B.
3. Draw a slightly curved line from A to B (see Fig.
110).
Shoulder. — 1. Draw a horizontal dash-line from line J
to line 5, one and one-half inches below line 6; mark it g.
2. Place the end of the ruler on A, and, bringing the
shoulder measurement to meet line 9, make a dot; mark
it C.
3. Draw a straight line from A to C.
Arm-scye. — 1. Make a dot half-an-inch below line /,
on line 5; mark it D.
2. Draw a curved line from C to D (see Fig. no).
Front.
Neck. — 1. Make a dot two and one-fourth inches to
the left of line 4, and one inch above line 6; mark it E.
2. On line 4 make a dot one and one-half inches below
line 6; mark it F.
3. Draw a curved line from E to F (see Fig. no).
Shoulder. — 1. Place the end of the ruler on E, and,
bringing the shoulder measurement to meet line 6, make
a dot; mark it G.
2. Draw a straight line from E to G.
Arm-scye. — To complete the arm-scye, draw a curved
line from G to D (see shape in Fig. 110).
Waist. — 1. If the waist measure is less than the bust
measure, divide their difference by two, and make a dot
this distance on line 7 at each side of line 5; mark
them H and /.
2. Draw a straight line from D to H, and another from
D to /.


HINTS FOR A PLAIN BASQUE.
157
The edge of the hem of the opening should be laid on
the selvedge, to avoid making two folds in the hem.
Great care must be taken to baste the seams of a
basque according to the marks; few beginners realize
that the difference of an eighth of an inch in the width
of the seven seams, around the waist, will amount to one
and three-fourths inches. Even basting stitches should
be used. After the basque is basted, try it on. Altera-
tions for tightening or loosening "the basque, around the
waist, should be made at the under-arm seams.
After the seams are sewed, take out the bastings ; pare
the seams, making notches at the waist-line, and two
inches above the waist-line, to allow for the curving of
the dress. The under-arm seams may be left wider than
the others, that the basque may be let out.
Press the seams open. Overcast the seams closely, or
bind them with a narrow silk binding obtainable for this
purpose.
Whale-bone casings can be bought, or a bias strip of
silesia can be sewed on to the seams, fulling it a little.
Soak the whale-bones in hot water for an hour, before
using, which will render them soft and pliable enough to
sew through. They should be firmly fastened an inch
above and an inch below the waist-line.
To finish the lower edge of the basque, baste a bias
strip of plain lining muslin, two inches wide, on the edge
of the basque; then fold the edges over half-an-inch, and
catch them to the lining, fastening securely at the scams.
Put on a facing of a thin material cut on the bias.



In
er U
'iist
Sack,
Ueeve
\u
ider 1
'aist
Ha
fofl
ack
Sack
'leeve
Jppe,
Hal)
If of.
Voiri
\
Jndev
Half
Sack
'of B
Wrt
ippei
Sleei
« /
St
Half l
ick
it
xck
J
f Fro
Dr
iwers
—

/
/
f
I
/
Hal
Vrapi
'oft
er
'out
1
Hal)
w
appe
of St
ck
I
—,
Fig. III. — Doll's patterns.





INDEX.
Alphabets, 126, 127, 128.
Articles needed, 1.
Hasting, 21.
Bias piecing, 109.
Bindings, 46.
Stitching and hemming, 46.
Setting-in, 49.
Overhanding, 51.
Blanket-stitch, 122.
Blind-stitch, 77.
Button-holes, 53.
Buttons, 61.
Canvas work, 18.
Catch-stitch, 117.
Chain-stitch, 120.
Cloth, 8.
Corners mitred, 111.
Creasing, 19.
Cutting, 10, 129.
Two-breadth apron, 133.
Child's bib, 134.
Pockets, 135.
Child's Drawers, 137.
Night-dress yoke, 139.
Child's sack tier, 142.
Gored skirt, 148.
Drawers, 149.
Child's waist, 153.
Hints for a plain basque, 156.
Doll's patterns, 159.
Darning —
Cloth darning, 93.
Straightway-darn, 93.
Bias-darn, 95.
Corner-darn, 96.
Darning with a piece under-
neath, 97.
Fine drawing on heavy woollen
material, 98.
Stockinet darning, 86.
Practice in weaving, 85.
Stockinet darning, 86.
Grafting, 89.
Swiss darning, 90.
Stocking-web stitch, 90.
Directions for sewing, 2.
Drafting, 132.
Drills, 14.
Edgings, 78.
Lace, 78,
Hamburg, 80.
Embroidery knots, 124.
Eyelet-holes, 63.
Facings, 52.
Feather-stitch, 119.
Felling, 75.
Fractions of a yard, 13.
French hem on damask, 77.
French seam, 76.
Gathering, 36.


INDEX.
Gathering—
Double gathering, 40.
Placing or stroking of gathers, 38
Grafting, 89.
Gussets, 66.
Gusset and facing combined, 69.
Half-backstitching, 25.
Hemming, 25.
Hem-stitch, 115.
Herringbone-stitch, 117.
Honey-combing, 44.
Hooks and eyes, 64.
Kensington outline-stitch, 121.
Knots, 7.
Loops, 65.
Loops of tape, 113.
Marking, 125.
Measure, 13.
Mitreing a corner of a hem, 112.
Mitreing two strips of cloth, 111.
Needles, 4.
Numbers of needles and thread, 8.
Overcasting, 31,
Overhanding, 33.
Patching, 100.
Hemming, 100.
Overhanding, 103.
Catch-stitching, 105.
Piping, 110.
Placket, 70.
Plaiting, 73.
Putting away the work, 2.
Ruffles, 80.
Running, 28.
Running and a backstitch, 30.
Scalloped edge, 43.
Scissors, 10.
Shirring, 42.
Slip-stitch, 77.
Smocking, 44.
Stitching, 23.
Stocking-web stitch, 90.
Thread, 5.
Threading the needle, 6.
Tucking, 71.
Whipping, 82.
■


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