LIBRARY OF THE
GRADUATE SCHOOL
OF EDUCATION
I

















MANUAL OF EXERCISES
IN
HAND SEWING.
ADOPTED BY
INDUSTRIAL AND GRADED SCHOOLS.
BY
MARGARET J. BLAIR,
Author of " Sewing and Garment Drafting,"
Instructor of Sewing in the School of Agriculture,
University of Minnesota.
FIRST EDITION.
ST. PAUL, MINN.:
WEBB PUBLISHING CO.,
1904.


BAKVARO UNIVERSITY
atmm school of education
E C GUTMAN UBRARi
r-ri/o
. 6 ^3
JAM 20 1940
COPYRIGHTED, 1904,
BY WEBB PUBLISHING CO.


INDEX.
Apron 25
Back Stitching 5
Bag 15
Basting 5-11
Blind Hemming 64
Button Holes 36-85
Buttons 39-87
Catstitching 6
Chainstitching 7
Darning—
Damask Darning 91
Stockinet Darning 41-89
Stockinet Web Darning 93
Three Cornered Darn 18
Decorative Stitches , 75
Doll's Skirt 30
Double Hemstitching 7-56
Drawing Threads 26
Extension Hems 54
Faced Hems 54
Fastenings 87
Buttons 39
Button Holes 36-85
Hook and Eyes 87
Loops and Eyelets 88
Feather Stitching 7
Felled Seam and Hemmed Seams 49
Flannel Patch 34
Flannel Seams 83
French Seams, Back Stitched and Half Back Stitched
Seam 46
French Hem 63
French Knots 75
Gathering, Gauging and Putting on Band
30-67


vi INDEX.
Gathering and Putting on a Ruffle 59
Gussets 69
Half Back Stitch 46
Hemmed Patch 81
Hemmed Seam 49
Hemming 21
Blind Hemming 64
Faced and Extension Hem 54
French Hem 63
Hems on Woolen Material and Three Cornered Darn.. 64
Hemstitched Hem 49
Rolled Hem 59
Slip Stitch Hemming 64
Turning Hem 21
Herringbone Stitch 6
Hooks and Eyes 87
Loops and Eyelets 87
Loop Stitch 8
Matching of Stripes 77
Mitered Corner 75
Model Apron 25
Model Bag 15
Model Doll's Skirt 30
Model Pillow Slip 23
Model Sheet 21
Model Towel 36 56
Overcasting 6
Overhand Patch 28-79
Overhand Stitch 52-6
Patching—
Flannel Patch 34
Hemmed 81
Overhand 28<79
Pillow Slip • 23
Plackets—
Placket Holes 30
Skirt Plackets 71
Sleeve Placket 73
Putting on Band 30-67
Putting on Ruffle 59
Questions and Answers 96
Rolled and Hemstitched Hems and Putting on a Ruffle.. 59


INDEX. vii
Running and Basting 43
Running Stitch 5-9
Seams—
Back Stitched Seam 5
Basting Seams 5.H
Felled Seam 49
Flannel Seam 83
French Seam 46
Half Back Stitched Seam 46
Hemmed Seam 49
Overhanding 28-79
Sewed 13
Sewing on Buttons 39
Sewirg on Lace 53
Sewing on Tapes 26-5fi
Sheet 21
Skirt Plackets 71
Sleeve Plackets 73
Slip Stitch Hemming 64
Stitches—
Backstitching 5
Basting 5-11
Catstitching 6
Chainstitching'
Decorative Stitches 75
Double Hem Stitching 7
Feather Stitch 7
French Knots 75
Half Back Stitch 46
Herringbone Stitch 6
Loop Stitch 8
On Canvass °
Overcasting Stitch 6
Overhand Stitch 52-6
Running Stitch 5-9
Stockinet Darning 41-89
Stockinet Web 93
Three Cornered Darning 18
Towel 36-56
Turning Hem 21





INTRODUCTION.
All educators agree that the beginning and suc-
cessive steps of education must harmonize with the
corresponding stages of the child's development. This
gives sewing, cutting and fashioning garments one of
the first places in the succession of studies to be taken
up. The child has scarcely a point of contact with
the world that he so readily perceives as that made by
his own garments.
A refined taste in one's dress and belongings has
usually been regarded as an acquirement of adult life.
But if the child is trained along wholesome natural
lines, his taste will develop individuality very early.
To introduce sewing successfully in the public
schools, three important points must be considered.
First, the merit of the system. Second, the effect upon
the school work and upon the pupil. Third, the abil-
ity or efficiency of those who superintend or teach the
sewing.
Under a system which is carefully planned and
properly carried out, learning to sew will become a
pleasant RS, well as an instructive part of a child's edu-
cation.


2
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
The system should be adapted to the different
grades; it should be simple and practical; it should
have some relation to the other school work.
In our work it touches upon' animal life through
the sheep, silkworm, and other creatures which in one
way or another produce textile threads or the sewing
implements. In much the same manner it touches up-
on plant life. Then, too, arithmetic, drawing, color
study, physical training, geography and history may be
correlated with sewing in this system. All manual
training makes a pupil more active and more observ-
ing. It rests certain faculties and interests the pupil
in nature. Sewing, properly taught, trains the child
also in neatness.
It is a great advantage to have but one kind of
work in a class, which to be taught successfully should
not number more than twenty-five, as pupils need in-
dividual attention. Yet experience also teaches that
it is necessary to give children a variety of work, that
is, if a child does not succeed satisfactorily with the
work in hand, the first time, give her another piece,
and later return to the first instead of insisting that she
work on the one piece until it is exact. A child who has
had the industrial work used in the kindergarten or
lower grades, will have had training to prepare her
readily to take up the sewing in the fourth grade.
The first work given should be a piece of canvas and
some of the simple stitches used in sewing. This en-
sures regularity of stitch, as well as the method of


EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
3
making it. It is also better to give children the coarser
materials at first, as their little hands need training in
holding their work before they take up fine work.
The next material placed in the pupil's hands should
be gingham or half-bleached muslin. The stripes of
the gingham will be a guide for the stitches, thus
training the pupil to sew straight. As the different
kinds of material are taken up, the teacher should in-
struct the pupils concerning them, and should give in-
struction in the use of the implements in the sewing
basket.
The sewing basket, which in itself will be a delight
to the child, should be well equipped with scissors,
needles, thread, thimble, tape-line, and emery. The
orderly keeping of this basket will not fail to be a
source of pride to the small girl.
A well graded system of sewing will include reg-
ular examinations for which a text book outlining the
requirements and suggesting questions will be quite
indispensable. Essays dealing with some branch of
sewing,—the implements used, or describing the his-
tory of textiles from the shearing of the sheep, the
planting of the cotton seed, or the beginning of the
life of the silk worm,—may be required, at the judg-
ment of the teacher.
By the time a child completes her grade work she
should be well versed in the relative prices and quality
of silk and gingham. She may learn at the age when
she is most teachable, how to select her household lin-


4
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
en and why the firm-threaded is cheapest in the end,
even if it is a little more expensive at first.
To teach sewing successfully the teacher must be
able to adapt the system to her pupils and to the time
she has at her disposal. Much can be accomplished
even in a limited period if the essentials are properly
chosen from the elementary work here outlined.





6
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING
ous stitch left the canvas. Continue in the same man-
ner across the canvas. Skip one row of holes and make
a row of overhanding over the next two, using the
blue cotton. In this row of stitches put the needle
down through the first hole and up through the one
under it. Insert the needle again in the hole next
to the first one and up through the one under it. This
makes a row of stitches which slant from right to left.
Skip one row of holes and make a row of backstitching
like the previous one.
Skip two rows of holes and beginning at the left
make a row of overcasting over the next two, using
the green cotton. This row of stitches is made the
same as the overhanding except that it is worked from
left to right and a hole is left between each stitch.
Skip one row of holes and over the next three make a
row of catstitching using the red cotton.
In this row begin at the left, hold the thread
under the thumb of the left hand and put the needle
down through the second hole and up through the first.
Carry the thread across and put it down through the
third hole in the third row of holes and up through
the second. Carry the thread across to the fourth hole
in the first row and continue as before until the row
is finished. This stitch is sometimes called "herring-
bone" and is used to catch open the seams of flannels,
in patching flannel and on raw edged hems, to avoid
the ridge formed by folding the edge.


EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
7
Skip one row and make another row of overcast-
ing like the previous one. Skip two rows of holes
and in the next one make a row of chainstitching using
the orange cotton.
This stitch is worked towards you. Hold the
thread under the thumb of the left hand and put the
needle down through the first hole and up through the
second, bringing it out over the thread. Insert the
needle again in the second hole, putting it down at the
right of the point where the thread leaves the canvas,
thus holding it in place. Come up through the next
hole, bringing the needle over the thread as before.
This results in a series of stitches resembling the
links of a chain. The stitches should be uniform and
not drawn too tightly.
Chainstitching is a method of embroidering often
used for outlining patterns.
Skip a row of holes and over the next three make
a row of featherstitching, using the blue cotton.
This stitch is also worked towards you. Hold the
thread under the thumb of the left hand, put the needle
down through the first hole in the top row and bring
it up through the second hole in the middle row, bring-
ing the needle out over the thread. Take the second
stitch on the opposite side, pointing the needle toward
the middle row of holes. For the second stitch the
needle should enter the canvas in the third row of holes
opposite the second one in the middle row, and come
up through the third hole in the middle and over the


8
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
thread, which is held down by the thumb. Continue
in the same manner until the row is completed.
Two or more stitches instead of one may be taken
on each side. Feather stitch or brier stitch is often
used in embroidery and fancy work, as well as in sew-
ing. It is used very often in finishing the seams,
hems and tucks of flannel garments. The beauty of
featherstitching is in uniformity of the stitch.
Skip one row of holes and make another one of
chainstitching like the previous one.
Skip one row of holes and over the next three
make the loop stitch, using the red cotton.
This stitch is worked from left to right, holding
the edge of the material towards you.
Hold the thread under the thumb and put the
needle down through the first hole and up through the
second one beneath it, bringing it out over the thread.
Repeat this process until the row is completed. Loop
stitch is used to secure and ornament the edges of wool-
en materials. It is also used for working the edges of
doilies by making the stitches close together.
The row of running stitches being in the middle
of the model, repeat all the other stitches on the other
half of the model. Overcast the ends of the model
with the red cotton, leaving half an inch for fringing.


MODEL II.
RUNNING STITCH.
Object: To learn the running stitch and its use.
Material: A piece of striped gingham or half-
bleached muslin; size 6x3 inches, needles No. 8, thread
No. 60 (red).'
Turn a half inch fold on one edge of the muslin
and, beginning at the right to sew, take several small

Model II—Running Stitch.
even stitches upon the needle at a time and sew across,
keeping the line of sewing one-eighth of an inch from
the fold or following the stitch in the gingham. Great
care should be taken to fasten the thread firmly and
neatly. This is done by taking two stitches in the
same place, one over the other.


10
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
A second row of stitches should be made one-half
inch below the first. The teacher should work for reg-
ularity of stitch and of spaces, and if the stitches
are exactly even, as they should be, the work will look
the same on both sides.
Running, which is composed of small stitches of
equal size, is used in seams that are not subject to much
strain, in darning, and in gathering.


MODEL III.
BASTING STITCHES.
Object: To learn how to baste.
Material: Gingham or half-bleached muslin 6
by 6 inches, needle No.8, thread No. 60 (red).
Turn a half inch fold on one side of the muslin;
commence at the right and baste across the material
one-eighth of an inch from the edge. In basting the
knot is left on the right side so as to be easily removed

:::::::
I
1 i
Model III—Basting Stitch.
when the basting threads are cut and drawn from the
work. The thread is fastened the same as in running.
The first stitches in the model are small, even


12
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
basting stitches, one-eighth of an inch underneath by
one-eighth inch on top. This method of basting is
used for the seams of any garment that is to be fitted.
The next is an uneven basting stitch one-eighth
inch underneath and one-fourth inch above. This is
used for basting scams that are to be overhanded.
Then comes an uneven basting, one-eighth inch by
one-half inch which is used for basting hems or seams
for machine sewing.
The next basting, which is composed of three stitch-
es, each one-eighth inch long and a stitch three-fourths
inch, is used for basting the seams of skirts, and gives
firmness for fitting.
A pupil should be taught the need of basting all
work before it is sewed, since basting stitches keep the
work in place and the line of basting should be so
straight that it will serve as a guide for the stitching.


MODEL IV.
SEWED SEAM.
Exercise: A basting; B sewing; C overcasting.
Object: To learn how to sew a seam.
Materials: Two pieces of gingham or unbleached
muslin 3 by 6 inches, No. 8 needle and No.60 thread
(red).
Place the two pieces of material together and baste
one-fourth inch from the edge, using an uneven basting

Model IV—Sewed Seam.
stitch. Sew just below the basting, taking three or four
short running stitches of even length. In the next
three commence with a back stitch by inserting the
needle where it left the cloth in the next to the last


14
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
stitch of the previous three running stitches. Continue
sowing in the same manner until the seam is finished.
Fasten the thread as in running. In this scam the pupil
should be taught to sew without a knot, but to fasten
the thread by taking one stitch, drawing the thread near-
ly through the material, then taking one or two stitches
back to where the first was started. Finish the seam by
overcasting the edges so that they will not fray or ravel.
Before overcasting the seam, the edges, if they have
raveled very much, may be carefully trimmed. The
overcasting is begun with a knot which is concealed
by taking the first stitch from the inside of the piece
nearest the seam sewed. Beginning at the left make
the stitches over the raw edge. When properly made
the overcasting stitches should be uniform, the distance
between them and the depth being the same.


MODEL V.
BAG.
Object: To teach overhanding.
Exercises: A, overhanding; B, hemming; C, run-
ning.
Materials: Gingham 5 by 18 inches, thread No.
70 (white), needle No. 8.
First make a hem on the two long sides of the ging-
ham, teaching the pupil to turn over the edge one-
eighth inch, creasing it and then turn the fold down
the desired width for the hem and haste it. In this
place the hem should be but a little more than one-eighth
inch in width. When hemming the pupil should be
taught always to insert the needle at the same angle
and to take the same quantity of material on the needle.
The space between the stitches should always be the
same.
In hemming the knot can be hidden in the hem.
Take up two threads of the material, slant the needle
up through the edge of the fold. For the next stitch, insert the needle very nearly underneath the point
where the thread left the material and proceed as be-
fore. Across the ends make horns one and three-fourths


EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
17
ridge will be formed when the seam is opened. One-
quarter inch above the hemming of the wide hems
put in a row of running stitches, thus forming a space
for the cord or tape. In order that the bag may be
easily opened, or closed, two pieces of the cord or tape
are used. Insert one in the space prepared for it, carry
it through both sides and out at the same place from
which it started. The other cord goes in on the oppo-
site side, also coming out where it entered. The place
where the cord or tape is joined should be hidden in the
hem.


MODEL VI.
T11 RE E-COR N ERE I) DARK
Exercise: A, darning; B, loop-stitch.
Object: To learn how to mend a tear.
Materials: Piece flannel 4 by 4 inches, thread
same color as flannel, No. 60, No. 8 needle, mercerized
spool cotton.
Cut a three-cornered hole in the flannel (Fig. VI)
then with thread the same color draw the corners neatly
together with several running stitches, holding the tear
firmly between the thumb and first finger of the left
hand, to prevent the edges from raveling.
The corners in place, draw the sides of the tear to-
gether in the same manner. Begin darning at one end
using fine running stitches. Care should be taken to
carry the thread the same distance from the tear, each
time, and not to draw the thread. Ragged edges should
not be cut away but darned down. Always darn on the
right side, and when finished press on the wrong side.
If it is well done it can scarcely be noticed.
Finish the edge of the model with the loop stitch,
using the mercerized cotton. Bring the needle up
through the edge of the material and holding the thread


EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
19
down with the thumb of the left hand, insert the needle
in the material again at the desired depth and bring it
out over the thread. Proceed in the same manner to the

Model VI—
Three Cornered Darn.
corner where one stitch should come directly over the
corner, and in the stitch preceding and the one following
the needle is inserted in the material at the same point.
This stitch is worked from left to right.



Model VII—Sheet.


MODELVII.
MODEL SHEET.
Exercise: A, turning hems; B, basting; C, hem-
ming.
Object: To learn how to hem.
Materials: White muslin 6 by 10 inches. White
thread No. 80, needle No. 9.
Turn and baste a hem one-eighth of an inch wide on
the lengthwise sides of the model. Hem these hems
and for the top of the sheet turn a hem one and one-half
inches wide and for the foot one that is one-half inch
wide. The ends of hems should be overhanded togeth-
er.



Model VIri—Pillow Slip.


MODEL VIII.
MODEL PILLOW SLIP.
Exercises: A, basting; B, overhanding; C, over-
casting; and D, running.
Object: Teaching different stitches used on pil-
low slip.
Materials: White muslin 7 by 8 inches; No. 9
needle, No. 80 thread.
Baste the selvedge edges together one-eighth of an
inch from the edge. Fold back the torn edges one-
fourth of an inch and baste as for selvedges. Overhand
these two seams by fastening with two little stitches
over each other.
As the beginning, joining, and fastening of the
thread varies in the different kinds of seams, the teach er should take special care to have the pupil thoroughly
understand and carefully follow instructions.
In overhanding the work is held firmly lengthwise
between the thumb and first finger of the left hand, but
never, over the finger which will cause the seam to be
uneven.
Overcast the raw edges and finish the pillow slip
with a hem an inch wide.



Model IX—Apbon.


MODEL IX.
APRON.
Exercises: A, hemming; B, gathering; C, putting
on hand.
Object: To teach gathering and putting on a band.
Materials: Gingham 7 by 7; thread No. 80
(white), needle "No. 9.
Baste and hem a hem one-eighth of an inch wide
on each side of the apron. Across the bottom of the
apron make a hem three-fourths of an inch deep. Fold
the apron to find the middle, notching it at the top, take
on the needle at a time as many small running stitches
as possible. Draw the stitches together on the needle
and fasten the thread by winding it over and under the
eye and point of the needle. Then hold the gathers
between the thumb and finger of the left hand, and
with the other pull each gather in place. Unwind the
thread and pull the needle through. Repeat with each
needleful. Place the notch to the middle of the band
and spread the gathers so that they will cover a space
three and one half inches wide. Holding the gathers
toward you, baste and then half backstitch them to
the band. Fold over the band so as to cover the gathers
and turn in the edges. When basted, overhand the ends
and edges of the band, but hem it down across the gath-
ers.


MODEL X.
MODEL TOWEL.
Exercises: A, drawing threads; B, hems; C, hem-
stitching; D, sewing on tape.
Object: To teach how to hemstitch, and sew a
tape on a towel.
Materials: Crash or glass toweling 4 by 7 inches,
tape 3 inches, thread No.60 (white), needle No. 8.
Measure up from the edge one and one-fourth inch-
es, and with the point of the needle pick out one of the
coarser threads, removing it carefully with the right
hand, so as not to break it. Six threads should be
drawn. Make narrow hems on each side of the towel
and then turn the hems at the ends, creasing the edge
one-eighth of an inch and baste them even with the
threads first drawn. Fasten the threads in the hem
at the left side, and pointing the needle towards you,
take up four or five of the cross threads. Draw the
needle through and take one stitch as in ordinary hem-
ming, being careful not to take the stitch too deep.
Repeat this until the hem is completed. As both edges
of the drawn threads are to be hemstitched, repeat the
operation on the other side. Hemstitching is one of the
neatest methods of finishing the ends of towels.


EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
27
Overhand the ends of the tape together, a little
more than the depth of the hem. Place the overhand-
ing on the tape to the middle of the hem, so that the


Model X—Towel.
raw edges will be towards the end. Stitch it down.
Then turn the tape back so as to cover the stitching
and hem it down all around. This will prevent the
tape from pulling off easily. A linen or cotton tape
should be used for towels.


MODEL XL
OVERHAND PATCH.
Object: To teach how to set in a patch.
Exercises: A, basting; B, overhanding; C, over-
casting.

Model XI—Overhand Patch.
Materials: Blue checked gingham cut in two pie-
ces, 6 by 6 and 3 by 3 inches; thread No. 90 (white),
needle No. 9.


EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
29
Cut out of one corner of the 6 by 6 inch piece a
square 2f by 2f inches, then cut the corners diagonally
one-eighth of an inch. Fold over one edge of the patch
and one edge where it is to be joined, each one-fourth
of an inch. Place the sides together, having the folded
edges even and baste. Overhand one side of the patch,
remove the basting and sew the other side in the same
manner. Care should be taken to exactly match the
checks and not to take the stitches too deep. Press on
the wrong side and if instructions are carefully followed
it will not show where patch has been set in. Overcast
the raw edges of the patch. Finish the model with a
hem on all sides one-eighth of an inch wide.


EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
31
Table of Measurements:
Hip
Top of
Front
Bottom of
Front
Top of Side
Gore
Bottom of Side
Gore
Buck
12
2
3
4
8
12
13
H
H
H
14
n
n
H
m
15
2f
H
8f
12|
16
H
H
84
124
17
n
3f
*f
8f
12f
18
n
3|
8|
123
The measurements taken for the doll's skirt illus-
trated were:
Hip 14 inches
Length 10 inches
Front: For the front, measure down to 1, one-
fourth of an inch for the curve at the top, and from 1
to 2 the required length. From 1 measure down to
3, or to the largest part of the hip, to find the hip line,
and from 3 measure out to 4, the width of the front
on the hip line. From 2 measure out to 5 the width
of the bottom of the front breadth. Draw a line
from the top of the paper through 4 to 5 and mark
off the length of skirt, 6, and from the bottom of the
front draw a curved line from 2 to 6. At the top meas-
ure in one-fourth inch to 7, and draw an outward curved
line to an inch and a half above 4. Draw a curved line
from 7 to 1 for the top of the front breadth.
Side Gore: For the side gore, measure down to 1,
one-half inch for the curve at the top. From 1 measure
down to 2 the required length, and from 1 to 3 find


32
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
the hip line. From 3 measure out to 4 the width of
the side gore on the hip line, and from 2 out to 5 the
width of the bottom of the side gore.
Draw a line from the top of the paper through 4 to
5 and mark off the length of the skirt, 6. From 1
measure in one-fourth inch to 7, and draw an outward
curve to the point one and one-half inches above 3.
Draw a curved line from the top of the second seam to
7 for the top of the side gore, and connect 2 and 6
with an outward curved line for the bottom. The back
breadth should be a straight piece. Having drafted
and cut the pattern the pupil should be taught to place
the pattern on the material so as to waste as little of the
cloth as possible.
Cut the front on a lengthwise fold of the material.
The back is a straight piece and should be cut first.
The measurement from 1 to 3 should be reduced
one-fourth of an inch for each inch decrease in the
length of the doll, or increased in the same proportion
for a large doll.
Baste the seams together using an uneven basting
stitch. Make a sewed seam, sewing just below the bast-
ing, overcasting the edges of the seam.
Cut an opening for a placket in the center of the
back two and one-half inches long. Make a hem one-
half inch wide on the right side and a hem one-eighth
of an inch wide on the opposite side, turning the hem
to the right side. Place the wide hem over the narrow


MODEL XIII.
FLANNEL PATCH.
Object: To learn how to patch flannel.
Exercises: A catstitch.

Model XIII—Flannel Patch.
Materials: Flannel squares 5 by 5 and 2 by
inches. Mercerized spool cotton ; needle No. 7.


EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
35
Cut a hole in the center of the large piece of flan-
nel one inch square. Baste the patch evenly over the
hole. Turn the patch over and catstitch it on around
the hole, being careful not to leave any of the threads
of the fabric free to ravel. If the stitches are taken
just over the raw edges and are not too large, the edges
of the hole or patch need not be turned in.
Finish the model around the sides with the loop
stitch.


MODEL XIV.
BUTTONHOLES.
Object: To learn how to make buttonholes.
Exercises: A, overhanding; B, making button-
holes.
Material: Striped gingham 4 by 5 inches, thread
No. 50 (white), needle No. 8.
Fold the gingham twice so that there will be three
thicknesses, turn in the raw edges, baste and overhand
them together.
The pupil should be taught to find the width of
the button and then to gauge the buttonhole scissors

Model XIV—Buttonholes.
so that the button hole when cut will be a little larger
than the button.
In making the button holes always use buttonhole
scissors to cut them, letting the pupil practice first ei-
ther on paper or muslin until she thoroughly under-


38
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
thread by bringing it through to the wrong side and tak-
ing two small stitches one over the other.
The pupil should start with a thread long enough
to complete the buttonhole, but if it is found to be
too short the thread may be fastened on the wrong side.
A new thread may also be fastened in the same way and
brought up through the last purl. Proceed with the
buttonhole stitch as if a new thread had not been nec-
essary.
A child will need more than ordinary attention
in making a buttonhole in order that she may learn
the correct method.
For bands or wherever there is much strain on the
button, the buttonhole is cut in the direction of the pull.
On the shirt waist front or where there is little strain
the buttonhole is cut at right angles to the pull.


MODEL XV.
SEWING ON BUTTONS.
Object: To learn how to sew on buttons.
Exercises: A, overhanding; B, sewing on buttons.
Material: Gingham 4 by 5 inches, 4 buttons, No.
8 needle, No. 70 thread (white).
Fold over one of the lengthwise edges of the ging-
ham, then fold it twice more so as to have three thick-
nesses of the material. Baste one-eighth inch from the
folded edges, using a small uneven basting stitch and
then overhand the edges. In sewing on the buttons

Model XV—
Sewing on Buttons.
draw the needle through the material from the upper
side, one-half inch from the folded edge, so that the
knot may be concealed under the button. Bring the
needle up to the right side again and through a hole in
the button. Place a pin across the top of the button,


40
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
leaving it there while the button is securely sewed on.
Remove the pin which will loosen the stitches and bring
the needle up between the button and material; wind
the thread several times around the stitches and fasten
it on the wrong side.
Using the pin in this way makes room for the
material when the garment is buttoned. This method
of sewing on a button is the one most commonly used.


MODEL XVI.
STOCKING DARNING.
Object: To teach the method of darning hosiery.
Materials: Card board 3 J by 3| inches. Stock-
inet 3 by 3 inches, darning cotton, black, and same shade
as the stockinet. Darning needle No. 7.

Model XVI—Stockinet Ijaii.n.
Baste the stockinet firmly on the card board to pre-
vent its being stretched or drawn out of shape, and cut
the hole in a line with the stitches. Remove the cut


42
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
loops, and run a thread around the hole, about one-
fourth of an inch from the edge. Form the warp
thread of the black darning cotton, which should be
very close together, by bringing the darning cotton up
through the loop stitch at one edge and down through
the stitch on the opposite edge. All of these stitches
should be taken up so that they will not ravel back
after the darn is completed, and so that there will be
no roughness on the right side of the stockinet. A
small loop of the darning cotton should be left at each
end to allow for shrinkage in washing.
When the warp threads are all in, begin at the
lower right hand side of the hole to fill in the woof
threads, taking up the alternate threads of the warp.
In the next row only those threads missed in the preced-
ing one are taken up. The woof threads should be put
in as close together as possible. Continue in the same
manner until the hole is filled. Both the warp and
woof threads should be carried at least one-fourth of
an inch beyond the hole in the stockinet so that the
darning may be firm and not pull away from the worn
edges of the stockinet.


MODEL XVII.
RUNNING AND BASTING.
Object: To teach running and basting, and
straight sewing.
Exercises: Running and basting.
Materials: Unbleached or half-bleached muslin C
by 12 inches. Needle No. 8, thread, 60 (red).
Turn a half inch fold across one end of the muslin.
Beginning at the right one-eighth of an inch from the
edge, make a row of small even running stitches. Hold
the work firmly between the thumb and first finger of
each hand, and using as free wrist motion as possible,
take several stitches on the needle at a time. Continue
in the same manner until the row is finished. One-half
inch below the first line of running stitches, make an-
other just the same.
Turn a fold one-fourth of an inch wide across the
other end of the model, and bring the fold up so that
it will be half an inch below the last row of running
stitches, basting it with white thread to hold it in place.
One-eighth of an inch below the second fold, make
a row of even basting stitches that are one-eighth of an
inch underneath and one-eighth of an inch on top, using


44 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
the red thread. This is the method of basting any gar-
ment that is to be fitted, as a waist or jacket. The
stitches being small the seams will not stretch apart.
One-half inch below these stitches make a row
of uneven basting stitches that are one-eighth of an

Model XVII—
Running and Basting.
inch underneath and one-fourth of an inch on top.
When hems are to be hemmed by hand or seams over-
handed, whether selvedge or a fold, they should be
basted with this stitch.
The third row is also an uneven basting stitch and
is one-eighth of an inch underneath and one-half of an


MODEL XVIII.
FRENCH SEAM, BACKSTITCHED AND HALF
BACKSTITCHED SEAM.
Object: To teach the method of making a French
seam and a Backstitched seam.
Exercises: Running, backstitching and overcast-
ing.
Materials: Unbleached or half-bleached muslin
cut into three pieces, 3 by 6 inches and 5i by 6 inches.
The latter should be folded to cut two pieces each 2^
by 3} inches. Needle No. 8, thread GO, red.
Baste the straight sides of one of the 2\ by 3|
pieces to the 3 by G piece, basting one-eighth of an inch
from the edge and making the seam on the right side of
the material. Sew the seam with a back stitch and
two or three running stitches, making them just below
the line of basting. Having fastened the thread secure-
ly, remove the basting, trim the seam one-eighth from
stitching and turn the seam to the wrong side and sew
it again, making the second row of stitches far enough
below the first row so that the raw edge will not show
on the right side.
For the second seam baste the two bias edges to-


48
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
used for sewing on gathers. Finish the seam by over-
easting the raw edges beginning at the left and taking
the stitches loosely through and over the edges. To
make the stitches uniform the distance between them
and the depth should be the same.


MODEL XIX.
FELLED SEAM. HEMMED SEAM.
Object: To learn the method of making felled
and hemmed seams.
Exercises: Sewing a seam and hemming.
Materials: Long cloth or any soft bleached mus-
lin cut into three pieces, 3 by 6 inches and by 6
inches. The latter should be folded so as to cut two
pieces each 2^ by 3-jr inches. Needle No. 9, thread,
white, No. 90.
Baste the straight side of one of the 2£ by
pieces to the 3 by 6 piece, making the line of basting one-
fourth of an inch from the edge. Just below the bast-
ing sew the seam using a backstitch and several running
stitches. Fasten the thread securely, and trimming
the edge toward you one-eighth of an inch fold the un-
trimmed side over the cut side and baste it down on
the material, making a flat seam. It should then be
hemmed by hand, even though in the garment making
the first stitching should be done by machine, for on a
garment this seam is usually a bias seam and when
laundered the hand sewing will be less liable to break
than machine hemming. This seam is more easily


50 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
laundered than the French seam and is, therefore, bet-
ter for most undergarments.

Model XIX—
Felled Seam. Hemmed Seam.
In making the hemmed seam, place the bias edge
of the third piece overlapping the bias edge of the oth-
er one-fourth of an inch and baste through the center.
Then crease and hem alike on both sides.
A knot should be used in these seams and finished


EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING,
51
by fastening with two small stitches one over the
other.
In the backstitching the stitches should all be of
the same length and when finished the stitching should
look like machine sewing on the right side.


MODEL XX.
OVERHAND ING.
Object: To learn overhanding.
Exercises: Overhanding, hemming and sewing on
lace.

MODEL XX OVEUHANDING.
Materials: Long cloth, or any soft bleached mus-


MODEL XXII.
MODEL TOWEL Object: To teach double hemstitching and sew-
ing on of tapes.
Exercises: Hemming and hemstitching.
Materials: Crash. 44 by 8 inches, needle No. 8,
thread No. 80 (white), linen tape size No. 1.
One and one-half inches from the ends draw six
threads which is the correct number to be drawn in all
materials to be hemstitched. Before hemstitching the
ends of the towel, hem the sides with a narrow hem.
Then turn a hem on the ends of the towel, basting it
even with the first thread drawn.
Fasten the thread in the hem at the left side and
pointing the needle towards you, take up four or five
of the cross threads. Draw the needle through and
take one stitch, as in ordinary hemming, being careful
not to take the stitch too deep. Repeat this, until the
hem is completed. Since both edges of the drawn
threads are to be hemstitched, repeat the operation on
the other side.
Fold the tape and overhand the sides together from
the ends, up to the depth of the hem.


EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
5 <
Sew the tape on the wrong side of the towel, pla-
cing it so that the raw edges will be towards the end,

1
Hiumuimi
WMMttiUVtui
mi".-
.„™».. —
.■■ ■
.VVW.'MJ.'.V
Model XXII—Towel.
and stitch it on. Then turning the tape back so as to


MODEL XXIII.
ROLLED AND HEMSTITCHED HEMS.
Object: To learn the method of making rolled
and hemstitched hems, gathering and putting on a
ruffle.
Exercises: Hemming, hemstitching, gathering
and backstitching.
Materials: Long cloth or any soft bleached mus-
lin 6 by 7 inches. For the ruffle, the same material
9 by H inches. Needle No. 10, thread No. 100.
The sides of this model are finished with a rolled
hem, which is made by rolling the edge of the ma-
terial between the forefinger and thumb of the left
hand, hemming as rolled, using the plain hemming
stitch. Measure up five-eighths of an inch, and crease
for a tuck. Baste a tuck three-sixteenths of an inch
wide, and back stitch on the right side, making the
line of stitches just below the basting.
For the ruffle, measure up five-eighths of an inch
from the edge and draw six threads for a hemstitched
hem. Make a rolled hem on the two ends of the ruffle,
then baste and hemstitch the hem. To gather the ruffle,
take as many small running stitches on the needle at a


60
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
time as possible. Draw the stitches together on the
needle, and hold them in place by winding the thread

Model XXIII—
Rolled and Hemstitched Hems.
over and under the eye and point of the needle. Then
hold the gathers between the thumb and finger of the
left hand, and with the other pull each gather in place. .
Unwind the thread, and pull the needle through. Con-
tinue in the same manner until the ruffle is gathered.
All garments should be divided into fourths, be-
fore putting on the ruffling. If the ruffle is also di-


EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
61
vided in the same way and the divisions placed oppo-
site each other, the fullness will be evenly divided.
In basting a ruffle on a garment, always hold the
fullness towards you, then sew on the line of gathers
with a half back-stitch. Turn the seam up, and baste
the tuck down over it, then backstitch.
Ruffles put on with the tuck are much more serv-
iceable and laundry better than those with the finishing
braid or facing.


MODEL XXIV.
FRENCH HEM.
Object: To learn the method of hemming table
damask.
Exercise: Overhanding.
Materials: Damask 54- by 6 inches; needle No. 9,
thread No. 80 (white).
Fold a hem on two adjoining sides of the damask,
from one-eighth to three-sixteenths of an inch wide, ac-
cording to the quality of the linen. Before begin-
ning to hem open out the hem, and fold the corner to-
wards you, creasing it one-eighth of an inch outside
of the point where the creases of the hems meet. Cut
off the corner on the crease, then fold the hem at the
right of the bias edge. Then, holding the wrong side
toward you, fold the hem back and crease the material
so as to make it even with the hem. Overhand the fold-
ed edges together, being careful not to take the stitches
too deep into the cloth, thus preventing long stitches
on the right side. Turn the hem on the second side
and fold under the bias edge on the corner and hem it
down. Continue in the same way to overhand the re-
maining hems on the model.


MODEL XXV.
HEMS ON WOOLEN MATERIALS AND THREE-
CORNERED DARN. Object: To learn blind hemming and the slip
stitch hemming, and how to mend a tear.
Exercises: Hemming, darning and the loop stitch.
Materials: Blue Albatross or Henrietta 4^ by 8
inches. Spool silk letter "A" and spool twist letter
"D," the same shade as the material. Needles, Nos. 10
and 8.
Fold over the material one-fourth of an inch to
the right side and baste it down, then fold a hem one
inch wide, basting not only the edge of the hem but
also the fold. To make a blind hem the stitches should
be taken so they would not show. To do this take up
one or two threads of the material and before drawing
the needle through take up one-fourth of an inch in
the fold. Continue in this manner, being careful not
to draw the threads tightly. The hem on the opposite end of the model is the slip stitch hem, which is made
by first folding over the material to the wrong side
one-eighth of an inch and baste it down, then turn a
hem one inch wide, basting it as for 'd blind hem; to
hem it, take up one thread of the cloth then one of the


EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING. 65
fold a little farther ahead, then of the cloth, etc. Keep
the stitches in line with the thread of the material in-
stead of diagonally. This hem is used on woolen ma-

Hbms on Woolen Materials and Three Cornered Darn.
terials where the stitches are not to show on the right
side. It is often used in hemming silk or velvet.
Finish the two sides of the model with the loop
stitch.


66
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
In the center of the model cut an opening one and
one-fourth inches each way, bringing the two cuts at
right angles to each other.
First draw the corners together, then holding the
edges firmly run them together (see corner and top of
illustration), using the warp of the same material as
that being darned.
After drawing the edges of the tear together begin
at the bottom to darn. Ragged edges should not be trim-
med, but weave the stitches over and under so as to
fold down each torn thread, being careful not to draw
the thread very tight, and thus cause the darn to be-
come puckered. When finished press the darn on the
wrong side and if it is well done, it can scarcely be
noticed.
Great care should be taken to have the needle and
thread used for darning proportioned to the thickness
of the material to be darned. Always darn on the right
side of the material, and if possible use the warp of the
material being darned.


68
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
The first row should be one-fourth of an inch from the
edge. Put in the second row of stitches before draw-

Model XXVI
Gathering and Gauging and Putting on a Band.
ing up to fit the band, which is put on in the same
manner as for the gathering.


MODEL XXVII
GUSSETS.
Object: To learn how to put a gusset in an open-
ing.
Exercises: Hemming and overhanding.
Materials: Long cloth or any soft bleached mus-
lin, cut in three pieces, the large one being 5? by 6
inches, the gussets being 2 by 2 inches, H by li
inches.
Fold the large piece lengthwise into three equal
parts, cutting the openings on the fold two and one-half
inches in length. Hem the openings with hems one-
eighth of an inch wide at the top, graduating them
so that at the end where the gussets are to be inserted
the hems will be as fine as a rolled hem.
Crease each side of the smaller square one-eighth
of an inch and fold so as to form a half square and
baste. Beginning at the point, overhand both sides of
the gusset in the opening.
This gusset is used for finishing the under arm
seams of night shirts. For the other gusset, crease
two adjoining sides of the larger square one-eighth of
an inch. Insert the folded corner in the opening, and


70 EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
overhand both sides of the gusset halfway up. Fold the
gusset over to the wrong side and crease. Hold in
place with the needle or a few basting stitches, so that
the middle falls over the point of the gusset, and cut
off the point of the square rounding. Turn under the

Model XXVII—Gussets.
edge and baste to the material, stitching the gusset so
that it will fit smoothly. Hem it down. This gusset
is used in the drawers placket.
The model should be finished with a narrow hem
on all four sides.
:


MODEL XXVIII.
SKIRT PLACKETS.
Object: To learn how to make plackets in skirts.
Exercises: Hemming and backstitching.
Materials: Long cloth or any soft bleached mus-
lin, cut in three pieces, the large one being 5^ by 6
inches, and the placket facing § by 1\ inches, and \
inches by 2i inches. Needle No. 9, thread No. 90.
For the hemmed placket cut an opening one-third
of the width of the material from the edge and two and
one-fourth inches in length.
On the left side make a hem that is one-half of
an inch wide. The hem on the other side of the
placket should be turned to the right side of the model,
or garment, and should be one-eighth of an inch wide.
Place the wide hem over the narrow one, and finish at
the bottom with two rows of backstitching, one-eighth
of an inch apart.
If the narrow hem is turned to the right side, the
raw edge at the bottom of the placket is avoided. This
placket is used on cotton garments.
The remaining placket is made by sewing the one
and one-fourth inch piece to the opening, bringing the
seam to the wrong side and folding the piece over and


72
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
hemming it down on the line of stitching, thus making
an extension hem for the under portion. For the upper,
sew the S'- by 2i inch piece to the edge of the opening,

Model XXVIII—Skirt Plackets.
with the seam on the right side, fold back on the line of
stitching, turn under the edges and hem down.
Finish the placket by hemming the left side under
the right. The model should be finished with a narrow
hem on all four sides.


MODEL XXIX.
SLEEVE PLACKET.
Object: To learn how to put the placket in a
shirt or shirt waist sleeve.
Exercises: Hemming and backstitching.


Model XXIX—Sleeve Placket.
Materials: Long cloth or any soft bleached mus-
lin. Cut in three pieces, the large one being 5^ by 6
inches, the other, 1J by 2^ inches. Needle No. 9, thread
No. 90.


MODEL XXX.
MITERED CORNER.
Object: To learn the method of making a mitered .
corner and decorative stitches.
Exercises: Catstitched hem, chain stitch, French
knots and loop stitch.
Materials: Gray flannel, 7 by 7 inches. Spool
white silk, No.A, spool D twist (white). Needles Nos.
10 and 8.
Cut a piece of flannel 7 inches square and fold the
opposite corners together, and cut on the fold, thus
making a true bias of one side. Fold and baste a hem
three-fourths of an inch wide, on the two adjoining
straight sides, mitering the corner. That is, after creas-
ing the hems, open them out and cut off the corner one-
eighth of an inch outside of the point where the creases
of the hem meet. Then fold the hems again, baste and
catstitch the bias corner and the hem. It is best, to
catstitch flannel hems, without turning under the edges,
thus avoiding the ridge made by the fold. Finish the
bias edge with the loop stitch, and chain stitch along
the hem on the right side.
Make a row of French knots half an inch above


76
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
the loop stitch. To make them, draw the needle and
thread through to the right side of the flannel, and take
one short stitch without drawing the needle through.
Then taking the two threads at the eye of the needle
bring them around from right to left, casting one or

Model XXX—Mitered Corner.
more stitches on the needle according to the size de-
sired. Draw the needle through, holding the stitches
firmly with the thumb of the left hand. Put the needle
back through the material at the same point at which
it was brought up. Several knots can be made without
fastening the threads.


MODEL XXXI.
MATCHING OF STRIPES. Object: To teach the matching of stripes.
Exercises: Overhanding and overcasting.

Model XXXI—
Matching of Stripes.
Materials: Blue and white striped gingham. Cut


78
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
in 5 pieces, two of them being 2\ by 6 inches, one 2^
by 21 inches, the other 2i by 44 folded and cut on a true
bias thus making two pieces. Needle No. 10; thread
(white) 100.
To match stripes on a bias. Fold over the two
bias edges one-fourth of an inch, baste them together
so as to match the stripes and overhand the folded
edges.
To match stripes crosswise. Fold over the straight
end of one of the bias pieces, also one end of the 2\
by 2-| pieces and baste the folded edges together, ex-
actly matching the stripes. Overhand this seam also.
To match the stripes lengthwise.. Fold over each
side of the piece already joined, also one side of each of
the 2\ by 6 inch pieces. Baste one of these to each side
of the first piece, exactly matching the stripes and over-
hand the seam. Overcast all of the seams and around
the edge of the completed model.


MODEL XXXIII.
HEMMED PATCH.
Object: To teach the method of putting on a
patch.

Model XXXIII—Hemmed Patch.
Exercises: Hemming and overcasting.
Materials: Pink and white striped gingham, cut


MODEL XXXIV.
FLANNEL SEAMS.
Object: To teach how to make seams on flannel
and how to finish hems and raw edges on flannel.
Exercises: Seaming, hemming, overcasting, the
catstitch, loop stitch, and the feather stitch.
Materials: White flannel cut in three pieces, two
of them 2j-x8 inches, the other 2^x8 inches. Binding
ribbon, 8 inch. Needles, Nos. 8 and 10; thread (white
silk) A, twist D.
In making the flannel seams baste the 2|x8 pieces
each side of the 2ix8 inch pieces, making the seams, three-sixteenths of an inch wide. Sew the seams with
the silk thread using a back stitch and two running
stitches. Press the seams open. The Dorothy seam,
which is used on flannels for infants, is made by cover-
ing a seam with narrow ribbon or silk tape. Baste it
down on each side and hem.
Finish the other seam with a row of catchstitching
through the middle, using the twist. Overcast the
edges of the seam with the silk thread. Finish around
three sides of the model with the loop stitch, turning
the corners nicely. On the unfinished end turn up an


84
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
inch hem to the wrong side, basting and catstitching

Model XXXIV—Flannel Seams.
it down. Feather stitch across the hem on the right
side.


MODEL XXXV.
BUTTON HOLES.
Object: To teach how to make button holes.
Exercises: Overhanding and button-holing.
Materials: Long cloth or some soft bleached mus-
lin, 4|x5 inches. Needles, No. 10; thread (white)
No. 80.
Fold the muslin lengthwise, so as to make three
thicknesses, and overhand the edges together. Turn in
the edges, baste and overhand them together.
In making button holes, always use button hole
scissors to cut them. Overhand the edges closely, not
taking in any deeper than necessary to hold the threads.

Model XXXV—Buttonholes.
In working a button hole, always begin at the end far-
thest from the edge of the material, working from the
right towards the left. Insert the needle with the point
towards you, drawing it but half way through. Take
the two threads at the eye of the needle, and bring them


86
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
around from right to left, passing under the point of
the needle. Draw the needle out so that the thread
will be at right angles from the button hole, forming a
knot or purl on the edge. In the first position, the
needle points towards the worker; in the second, it
points in the opposite direction. When the button hole
has been worked across one side, work several stitches
close together, so that the button hole will be rounding at
the end. Work across the other side and finish with a
bar, which is made by drawing the needle down through
the first button hole stitch taken, bringing it up on the
opposite side, through the last button hole stitch. Draw
the stitch tightly, so as to bring the sides close together.
Make four of these stitches, then, bringing the needle
under them, work four button hole stitches on them.
Draw the needle down through the cloth close to the
purl of the last stitch, and fasten on the wrong side.
In working a button hole, if the thread seems too short,
pull the needle through the hole, and fasten the thread
tightly on the wrong side, close beside the last stitch.
Fasten the new thread on the wrong side, bringing the
needle up through the last purl. Proceed with the
button hole stitch as if a new thread had not been nec-
essary.


88
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
Half an inch from the hook sew on an eye in the
same manner, taking the stitches through the rings and
across each side of the body of the eye. Fold over the
material bringing it up under the hook and even with
the opposite side of the cloth. Baste and overhand the
two edges together. Hooks and eyes on a garment that
are to be covered are sewed on in this way.
One-half inch from the eye already sewed on, place
another hook and button-hole it on. The curve of the
neck should be placed even with the edge. The eye is
placed one-half inch from the hook and button-holed all
around, as illustrated. This method of putting on
hooks and eyes is used when they are to be used on the
outside of a garment, or where they will show.
A loop is used on a garment to take the place of an
eye. They are made by taking six stiches, one-fourth
of an inch in length, for a foundation on which the
loop stitch should be closely worked, the twist or purl
being drawn to the outside edge of the loop. To fasten
the thread, bring the needle down through the material
close beside the last stitch and fasten on the wrong side
with several stitches over each other. Loops are also
often made with the button-hole stitch.
The eyelet is a round hole made in the material
with a stiletto. Overhand the hole closely with twist,
the stitch being firmly drawn up to strengthen the edge
of the hole and keep it well open and in shape. Work
the eyelet with the loop stitch from left to right. The
thread should be fastened on the under side the same as
in button-hole making.


MODEL XXXVII.
STOCKINET DARNING.
Object: To teach the method of darning hosiery.
Materials: Cardboard, 3^x3^ inches; stockinet,
3x3 inches; darning cotton same shade as the stock-

Model, XXXVII—Stockinet Darning.
inet; darning needle, No. 7. This model is made the
same as the model on page 41, except the warp and
woof are the same color.


90
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
Baste the stockinet firmly on the cardboard to pre-
vent its being stretched or drawn out of shape, and cut
the hole in a line with the stitches. Remove the cut
loops and run a thread around the hole about one-fourth
of an inch from the edge. Form the warp threads,
which should be very close together, by bringing the
darning cotton up through the loop stitch at one edge
and down through the stitch on the opposite edge. All
of these stitches should be taken up so that they will
not ravel back after the darn is completed, and so that
there will be no roughness on the right side of the stock-
inet. A small loop of the darning cotton should be
left at each end to allow for shrinkage in washing.
When the warped threads are all in begin at the lower
right-hand side of the hole to fill in the woof threads,
taking up the alternate threads of the war]). In the
next row only those threads missed in the preceding one
are taken up. The woof threads should be put in as
close together as possible. Continue in this same man-
ner until the hole is filled. Both the warp and woof
threads should be carried at least one-quarter of an inch
beyond the hole in the stockinet, so that the darning
may be firm and not pull away from the worn edges of
the stockinet.


MODEL XXXIX.
STOCKINET WEB DARNING.
Object: To teach the weave as in knitting.
Materials: Cardboard, 3|x3£ inches. Dark red
saxony. Dark red knitting silk or mercerized cotton.
Darning needle, No. 7.
Across the top of the cardboard prick a row of
holes half an inch from the edge and one-eighth of an
inch apart. On the opposite side of the cardboard
make another row of holes, the same distance from the
edge, and one-eighth of an inch apart. There should
be a second row one-eighth of an inch below this one,
the holes being opposite the others. To weave in the
warp threads, begin at the bottom and bring the silk
thread up through the first hole of the second row, and
down through the first one in the row of holes at the
top. Then up through the second hole at the top and
down through the first one in the second row at the
bottom, then up through the one next to it, thus making
two threads in each hole except the first and last ones
at the top. Continue weaving in the warp in the same
manner until all the holes are filled.
Put in the first row of loops by bringing the yarn
up through the first hole in the bottom row; around


94
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
the first two warp threads and back down through the
same hole. Then up through the second hole, around
the warp threads and down through the same hole.
Continue in the same manner across the card. After

making the last loop the needle will be on the wrong
side. To weave in the warp threads the saxony should
be brought to the right side of the card. This is done
by bringing the thread over the side of the card and up
through the first loop.
Weave in the woof by putting the needle around


EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
95
two of the warp threads, down through the loop, up
through the next one, and so on across the darning. In
turning, bring the needle up through the first loop, then
around the first two warp threads, down through the
loop, and around the two warp threads. Continue in
this manner until the darning is finished.
If this method of darning is carefully followed in
mending silk underwear or the knees of children's stock-
ings, it will never be noticed where the piece has been
filled in.


EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
99
The warp threads, because they must bear the
strain of having the woof threads woven in.
(29) What is the selvedge?
The selvedge is the finished lengthwise edge which
is made by the woof threads, as they are woven back
and forth.
(30) Why should materials always be cut through
the selvedge and not torn?
The warp threads being laid closer together at the
selvedge, for strength, the material might be torn down
the side.
(31) What are some of the materials woven from
cotton?
Muslin, prints, gingham.
(32) What is wool?
It is a variety of hair or fleece which is shorn from
sheep, the Angora, Alpaca, and Cashmere goats, and
furnishes the most important material for clothing in
all cold and temperate climates.
(33) What are some of the materials made of
wool?
Broadcloth, cashmere, serges, and cheviots.
(34) What is linen?
It is a thread or cloth made wholly from the fibre
of flax or lint.
(35) What are some of the linen materials?
Then, lawn, damask.
(36) What is silk?
It is a soft, fine thread spun by the silk worm.


100
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
(37) What are some of the silk materials?
Gros grain, grenadine, brocade, satin, and surah.
(38) How are twilled goods woven?
Instead of taking up the threads regularly, as in a
plain weave, a certain number of threads are taken up
or dropped at given intervals, thus forming a twill, as
in the damask darning.
(39) In twilled goods how would you determine
the right from the wrong side?
On the right side the twill runs from left to right.
(40) Are figures always woven in?
Not always. Usually in cotton materials they
are printed.
(41) Is felt woven?
No; it is made from a fur or wool pulp, which is
pressed.
(42) What are running stitches?
Running stitches are small basting stitches of
equal size.
(43) When are running stitches used?
Running stitches are used in seams that do not re-
quire great strength, in gathering, and several rows are
used in darning and quilting.
(44) What is basting, and for what is it used?
Basting is sewing with large stitches to hold differ-
ent parts of the work together, and it is also used as a
gr1' le for the stitching.
1-5) How are basting stitches fastened?
Rv two small stitches taken in the same place.


102
EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
A French seam is sewed first on the right side,
trimmed close to the stitching, the seam turned to the
wrong side and stitched again.
(54) Where is a felled seam used?
A felled seam is used in a corset cover and draw-
ers, and is often used in a night gown.
(55) When is a faced hem used?
A faced hem is used where there is a curved edge
and the hem needs to be fitted.
(56) What is most important in sewing on tape?
Neatness and strength.
(57) Where is a rolled hem used?
A rolled hem is used on very fine materials.
(58) For what is hemstitching vised?
Hemstitching is used for ornamenting a hem.
(59) How should the threads be drawn?
Always finish drawing one thread before beginning
another. Six threads being the required number.
(60) How should the work be prepared for gath-
ering?
By marking the middle and the quarters, to make
the fullness even when it is sewed on.
(61) How should you hold your gathers when
sewing them on a band?
They should be held towards you.
(62) Why is a French hem used for hemming
damask instead of the plain hem?
It is much stronger.
(63) Where is gauging used?


EXERCISES IN HAND SEWING.
103
Gauging is used where there is a large amount of
fullness required, as in the backs of skirts.
(64) For what is a gusset intended?
To strengthen the end of an opening.
(65) Why does the gusset strengthen the open-
ing?
Because the top is a bias fold, which is not easily
torn.
(66) Where are hemmed plackets used?
Hemmed plackets are used in the straight backs of
skirts.
(67) Why is a mitered corner used?
A mitered corner is used in heavy materials to
avoid thickness.
(68) How is a true bias cut?
A true bias is cut by folding over a corner of the
material so that the selvedge or warp threads shall run
exactly with the woof threads. The fold will be a true
bias.
(69) Which is the stronger, the overhand or
hemmed patch?
The hemmed patch is the stronger, because there
are two rows of stitching.
(70) Why is catstitching used in flannel patch-
ing?
Because the raw edges should not be turned in,
thus avoiding a ridge.
(71) What should be the length of a botton hole?