o
A Sewing Course
FOR TEACHERS
COMPRISING
Directions for Making the Various Stitches
AND
Instruction in Methods of Teaching
BY
MARY SCHENCK WOOLMAN, B. S.
PRESIDENT OF
THE WOMEN'S EDUCATIONAL AND INDUSTRIAL UNION AND PROFESSOR
OF HOUSEHOLD ECONOMICS IN SIMMONS COLLEGE
Fifth Edition, Revised
WASHINGTON, D. C. Frederik A. Fernald
1913


•HABJATE SCHOa OF EDUCATIOH
Tr^/o
JUL 12 1339
COPYRIGHT 1893 and 1908
BY
MARY SCHENCK WOOLMAN
An Interleaved Edition of this book is published, in which are inserted 31
leaves of bristol-board for mounting the practice pieces made by the student.
Price, $3.50 net.
Interleaved copies with sets of models mounted on the bristol-board leaves
can be supplied by the Domestic Art Department of Teachers College.
Price, $19.25 net.
i


PREFACE.
The introduction of manual training as a necessary part of education has
raised sewing to an art of great importance. Outside of the practical advantage
of being able to use the needle, the mental training through hand and eye has
been proved to have a permanent effect on the character. The training of the
hand makes it dextrous in other employments. Habits of thrift, cleanliness,
patience and accuracy are inculcated, economy taught and the inventive faculty
developed. Attention and the power of observation are increased by giving the
lesson to an entire class at one time instead of by the old method of showing each
pupil separately.
In order to get the best results, certain fixed rules must be followed; to meet
this want, these brief notes are given for the use of teachers. The course is care-
fully graded to lead the mind gradually upward to more difficult needlework.
An enthusiastic and progressive teacher can, through sewing, make freer and
more capable beings of her pupils and help round out their characters.
[From the first edition, 1893.]


NOTES FOR TEACHERS
Purpose of the Sewing Course.
This book is written for the purpose of giving to teachers the most important
principles of plain sewing. Since there is not time in the courses in normal
schools for each student to make every article suitable for children it is suggested
that some practice work in stitches has a justifiable place. These exercises, if
desired, may be retained for use in teaching, but such work, even in training
schools, must be supplemented by numerous finished articles. Younger pupils
naturally need practice on stitches before beginning on an article or garment, but
such practice should be continued only long enough for them to gain sufficient
skill for the purpose in view. The trial piece may then be discarded. It is a
mistake for children to continue to make one stitch until perfection is reached
before utilizing it on some interesting object. Accuracy of thought and of action
are not gained by such vain and tiresome repetitions, but rather a feeling of ennui
or even a dislike of the work. Teachers do not expect that each letter of the
alphabet must be made perfectly before giving instruction on the next or before
teaching the classes to spell. Indeed the written word is often poorly executed
throughout life and yet is indispensable. By some unknown reasoning, however,
many teachers of sewing insist that each stitch must be made perfectly before
allowing a pupil to begin on a new one. Many will also require students to
know all of the important stitches before suggesting the use of any of them to
construct articles. The unfortunate fact is that they thus keep the pupils from
using the knowledge they have acquired and thereby lose a powerful ally in the
spontaneous handwork which is so natural to the child. Every one who attempts
to teach sewing should become familiar with the stitches, by actual experience, and
should take her own work to the classes to give ideas of correct construction and
neat finish. These notes for teachers and the instruction under each description
of stitches afford a basis for planning courses suited to various kinds of schools
and to children of different ages and conditions of development. Under the de-
scriptive sections will be found lists of materials necessary for practice and also
suggestions for application. It is expected that each teacher will practice the
stitches and then apply them to the making of small finished articles suitable for
children and calculated to develop their natural activity and encourage them to
be creative. These articles should be mounted with the practice-pieces on the
bristol-board leaves of the Interleaved Edition of the Sewing Course.
7


8
Mounting Finished Work.
Object teaching is an important factor in the schools, and the teacher of sewing
will find samples of her own hand work will greatly assist her in giving correct
ideas of construction to her pupils.
Leaves for mounting finished work are inserted in the Interleaved Edition of
this book. The teacher or normal student may fasten on the bristol-board leaves
the articles or models made by her. Care should be taken to arrange them effec-
tively. The McGill's paper fasteners, No. AAi, are more satisfactory than paste,
and two samples can often be placed on one page. Some soft colored paper,
pasted carefully on the bristol-board improves the appearance of the articles made
of white material. One sample can combine a number of stitches; illustrations
of this are a small towel with a hemstitched border and marked with initials in
cross-stitch, with a loop of tape to hang it up; or a flannel skirt in which stitch-
ing, hemming, herringbone, putting on a band, a button-hole and sewing on a
button are all used.
The Teacher.
Many qualities unite in the making of a good teacher. Her personality is
most important, for her physical, mental and moral influence is ever moulding
her pupils, even without her conscious effort. Her special training should be of
the best. Its foundation should be cultural, supplemented by a knowledge of the
problems of modern education, and by the ideals of her own Household Arts field.
She should also have ample technical skill and experience. Without a professional
preparation, she is too much handicapped to accomplish all that is possible in this
branch of education. Furthermore, the spirit which she brings to her work will
determine largely the character of her success. Much possible good will be unat-
tained if her aim is simply to inspire her classes to complete a series of good models,
or even of useful articles. Supplementary ideals are needed to make her pupils
efficient for good in the world. Such ideals will require her to study the needs,
characteristics and environment of her pupils, that she may develop thoughtful,
responsible workers who have a worthy purpose to carry out. She must gradually
bring them in touch with the problems of industrial workers also, that they may
have an increasing desire to themselves lend a hand in the world's work. A
teacher well prepared in her subject, with an ethical aim such as the above, will
find the children in her classes growing into active, dependable women.
Sewing in the Public Schools.
Sewing was introduced into the curriculum of public schools many years ago
for utilitarian purposes, i. e., it was felt that girls needed to know how to sew,
and as they failed to learn at home, the public schools provided this instruction.
Material results were emphasized and little or no thought was given to the train-
ing of the brain through the hand. Looked at from this side alone, the work has
much to recommend it, for it is of life-long use to the children. The object of
the school is not, however, solely to provide a means of earning a livelihood, but


NOTES FOR TEACHERS
9
aims at "the full and harmonious development of all of the powers of the indi-
vidual," that they may be used in efficient service to society. This educational
foundation, however, should be such that it may serve, when necessary, as an
effective basis for vocational life. Sewing may be of true worth in the curri-
culum if it enables the pupil to help herself, inclines her at the same time to assist
others, shows her the connection of her work with the world's industrial interests,
and makes her sympathetic with, and appreciative of, the army of those who work.
It frequently fails, however, of its full value through lack of breadth in the point
of view of the teacher. The "Sewing Course" aims to indicate lines of thought
for her study and reflection through which she may increase the efficiency of
her work.
Self-activity and Social Service.
Frobel's heartfelt cry of the need of training every child's natural activity if
he would be harmoniously developed gave a new meaning to manual work.
Psychologists studying the development of the brain, found that a complete
education included training in action, as well as in thought. Gradually the
entire attitude toward the training of the hand changed, as more study was given
to its proper function in the school, and manual training is now felt to be as
necessary in education as any academic study. The modern curriculum gives the
opportunity to use the hand, will and mind together. A desire to be of service
in the world comes naturally as the means for such helpfulness are increased, but
the teacher has it in her power to develop higher ideals of social usefulness in
each student. Sewing is one phase of manual training; it comes, or it should
come, close to the interests of childhood and it offers innumerable ways by which
a child may be of assistance in the home and in the school.
The Need of Child Study.
If sewing is to add to the mental and moral strength of the children, if a love
of the true and beautiful is to come through it, the work must take them into
account. The child must not be sacrificed to the model, or garment, by the
demand of the teacher for over-accurate work, for neat adjustments at an early
age, or for the stupid task. The interest and development of the child must be
considered in the selection of the course. Setting her to make articles suited to
her capacity and considered by her as worth doing is the only sensible method of
gaining her enthusiasm and of bringing out her creative ability. The stitch
should be taught as a means by which she may construct a definite article, and
not as an end in itself, as is the case in the usual model work, Watch a child
learning a new stitch, which will help her construct an interesting article. Her
heart is in it, as the subborn little fingers are put in place, and the will power
brought into play. Her whole body shows lively interest and she overcomes dif-
ficulty after difficulty in her road to success. Give the same child a set of models
to make which have been arranged by the teacher apart from the interests of
childhood and she will become fatigued, and instead of utilizing her own will the


A SEWING COURSE
cleaning and serving, the needs of the linen closet, historic dress, the furnishing
of a room or house, uniforms and equipment for nurses or housemaids, may each
suggest a new set of articles for the classes and furnish matter for discussion and
study.
Correlation.
There is continual opportunity for connecting a course of sewing with the
every-day life of the children at home, at school, or in society, and gradually
interesting them in the bettering of industrial conditions. To do this adequately
and easily, the special teacher must be familiar with the homes and lives of her
pupils, and must also know the aims and subject matter of the regular school
work. By consultation with the grade teachers she will know the wisest time to
introduce discussions connecting the handwork with academic interests. Such
subjects as the properties and values of materials, the countries growing or manu-
facturing them, and the development of commerce on account of the great textile
industries, belong to geography and history, as well as to our industrial life.
English may be turned to account in personal or business correspondence; vocab-
ularies of materials and industrial processes; adequate recording, oral and
written; and in business usages. Computations of the expenses necessary for
making garments, the division of the income, the keeping of accounts, and the
consideration of the cost of living, connect arithmetic with sewing. Further-
more, the decoration of articles, the beauty of materials, historic dress, embroid-
eries, laces and textiles are fine art as well as household art interests. The school
should recognize these relationships and should so utilize the handwork that it
will illustrate and strengthen the study courses. In other words, sewing has a
cultural background which should be utilized, not only to increase the interest in
it, but also to aid in the unification of all the school subjects by a worth-while
correlation. Results of value can only be obtained when the teacher of sewing
studies all of these related fields for herself. Serious work on the part of a large
number of the special teachers would greatly help in solving some of our greatest
social problems. The improving of the home; the bettering of the working con-
ditions of women, by bringing about adequate laws concerning them; wholesome
factory conditions, and the increasing of respect for handwork and handworkers,
are instances of needed reforms. The regular grade teacher cannot be expected to
do this alone, for she has not studied industrial interests in her preparation for teach-
ing. Her hearty co-operation is always given, however, to the special teacher
who works wisely and tactfully with her. Forced, unnatural correlations between
handwork and academic work do more harm than good. The sewing alone is of
greater use to the children than when accompanied by encyclopaedic information
on industries imparted to the class by the teacher and called correlation. Various
methods may be used to interest the classes in personal investigation. Subjects
may be set beforehand, that research may be done by the classes, and either oral
or written work, of an original character, may follow and serve to combine an
English lesson with one on Household Art.


NOTES FOR TEACHERS
Textile Study in the Schools.
The Study of Textiles has been accorded a place in the curriculum of many
schools on account of its educational, as well as its practical, value. Woven
materials play an important part in the every-day life with which the school
wishes to connect. The evolution of the modern textile industries has influenced
the development of all nations so that the history of the gradual growth of the
primitive into the civilized world is closely connected with changes in the textile
field. The early beginnings offer excellent suggestions for courses of handwork
and design. In addition, the industrial and commercial aspects of history, Eng-
lish, geography and arithmetic are made more real and valuable by using the tex-
tile interests in correlation. This subject may serve, therefore, as a means of
unifying the school studies. Industrial organization underlies our present civili-
zation. Conditions which affect our industries reach our social life. The textile
industries are especially influenced by women, and their knowledge or ignorance
as consumers are controlling factors in the nation's industrial development. It is
especially advantageous in every course of sewing for girls, in either elementary
or secondary schools, to introduce textile discussions. In elementary education
the value of personal experience in primitive textile manufacture has been ably
presented by Professor John Dewey,* of Columbia University, and by Miss
Katherine E. Dopp,t of Chicago University. They advocate the reproducing of
early industrial life in the school, that through it the children of to-day may have
the same incentive for thought and activity which were the prime factors in devel-
oping the race. It thus leads these children to an understanding of present con-
ditions for which our involved modern system of factory work cannot be satis-
factorily utilized. The simple carding, spinning, designing, weaving and
decorating, as well as many other early occupations, are interesting and call for
reasoning and creativity. Ideas of simple social conditions and of the early organi-
zation of society are also given through such study. The children can, through
play or dramatization, live the life of the early races, or they can reproduce on
sand trays the entire community, with its industries and interests. In later edu-
cation, the historic side of textiles is a part of industrial history, sociology, eco-
nomics or other studies, and it may also connect practically with the sciences. In
addition, valuable utilitarian ideas which will materially benefit the organization
of the home, as well as react advantageously upon our manufacturing interests,
may be obtained at every stage of woman's education. The knowledge of the
physical construction of the fibers in use and of their properties will enable a pur-
chaser to judge of their hygienic and warmth-giving conditions, as well as of their
cleansing and laundering possibilities; and the understanding of processes of
manufacture will assist the student to judge of good and bad materials, and of
adulterations, to know widths, costs, and where to find the best markets. Useful
knowledge of this sort should not only make women better and more economic
consumers, but should give them new standards of the beauty and service of
* School and Society.
t Place of Industries in Elementary Education.


*4
A SEWING COURSE
materials. This would tend to eliminate over-decoration and needless luxury in
the homes. The study of factories and workrooms, and the knowledge of methods
of manufacture will also bring about an appreciation for, and sympathy with, the
worker, which will make for the permanent bettering of labor conditions and of
society at large.
Drawing and Design.
Lessons in drawing or color should accompany the entire course in sewing.
The simple plans of the first grade for ornamenting a little burlap mat, needle-
case or cover, as well as the high school designs for underclothing, shirtwaists,
hats, embroideries, gowns, and home furnishings require art appreciation.
Drawings or color sketches should be made and applied directly to the problem
in hand. Improved line, adequate decoration, correct placing, harmonious color
combinations, temperance and simplicity in results should be gradually attained.
The divorce of art from handwork is responsible for much of our bad taste, and
as a result, the furnishings of our homes are frequently vulgar; our clothing is
commonplace, over-decorated or tawdry, and our shops are filled with poorly
constructed articles. The product of many of our industries is influenced entirely
by the demands of women. It is necessary for our country's success that the
taste and the knowledge of practical buying should be improved. The home
worker, the seamstress, the dressmaker, and the milliner usually know little or
nothing of art; the teacher of design has been too ignorant of the technique of
these industries to be of much service, and the teacher of the Domestic Arts has
given her time to her direct field, omitting the fundamental connection of applied
art. It is absolutely necessary that she should now give sufficient time to the study
of design to be able to improve the art of every-day life. This will again react
on the industries. She should either herself give the necessary art lessons in her
classes, or be able to direct the work of the regular art teacher, so that good prac-
tical results may be obtained.
The Vocational Foundation. The early cessation of education confronts the teacher in the industrial sec-
tions of large cities. A large number of children leave school to become wage-
earners the moment the compulsory school years are over (about fourteen).
Many have not graduated, but stop about the sixth school year, or even before
that. As the usual public school courses are planned to culminate later, the edu-
cation which these young workers have received is of questionable service to
them in making a living. The only gainful occupations into which they can
enter, therefore, are those which require unskilled labor. These seldom give
good opportunities for advance, for the skilled operatives are too busy to train the
young beginners. The result is that numbers of these children drift from work-
room to workroom, making only a small, inadequate wage. The girls remain a
few years in the market, but find it difficult to rise to $5.00 per week, which in
large cities is merely a living wage. They then marry and begin homes of their
own, but, even there, are unprepared to be economic factors. They have not had


NOTES FOR TEACHERS
our methods are needed and desirable, they can be used as supplementary to the
native work. The life of those nations and its improvement or development
should, however, be the basis for decision on courses of work. In some countries
the women and girls are very deft with their fingers and many nations have
developed wonderful crafts of their own; these should be preserved, if possible,
unless the best reasons exist for change. It is stupefying to foreign children to be
given ideas of construction entirely at variance with their previous knowledge and
at the same time, little adapted to the life they are living.
Drafting and Cutting.
In the elementary school it is not wise, nor indeed is it usually possible, to
teach elaborate dressmaking. It is, however, advisable that girls from the sixth
or seventh grade up should have some experience in cutting, fitting and construct-
ing the simple garments they wear or that may be worn by their younger sisters
or brothers. Drafting of pattern is frequently given to accompany garment-mak-
ing in the higher grades of the elementary school, although its principal use is in
the high school. It is of doubtful benefit in either when it is given with set
dictated rules, for it does not develop independence of thought or of action. To
be sure, each girl may through it make a pattern for herself or for another, but
she has usually gained little in understanding how to adjust the draft to changing
fashions or how to cut and fit easily when she is away from the teacher. The
real service which drafting may render has been lost in such cut and dried lessons.
The good dressmaker and the able woman in her own home do not rely on draft-
ing to make every new pattern; they are superior to it. They can take any one
they have and adapt it to a new purpose. They completely cut it over or increase
or decrease it where necessary, and obtain good results. The aim of a course of
lessons in drafting should be to give each pupil ability of a similar character.
Freedom from set rules and the knowledge of how to go to work is much more
necessary than merely having a good pattern. Drafting, therefore, should be a
means to an end, and not solely an end in itself. Through it the students should
learn the form of the body and the way patterns are made. They should be able
to appreciate good line, to utilize and alter any pattern so as to conform it to dif-
ferent figures or to changing styles. The elementary school cannot go far in
this work, but it is important that the right start should be made. A child likes
to cut her own doll clothes, and the teacher, in even the fifth grade, can help her
to improve upon her crude efforts and can gradually lead her to see that certain
principles when followed, lead to exactness, as well as to beauty, of result. As
the girl grows older, the teacher can help her to comprehend the use of the dif-
ferent parts of paper patterns. She can gradually lead her up through the simple
doll clothes she has cut, to the understanding of the way to draft an accurate pat-
tern. No matter how clever a demonstrator a teacher is, she will fail to give as
much help to her class, while explaining a draft, as will be obtained by each
child in her own efforts toward making some pattern for her doll or for herself.
The regular patented systems of cutting are of less value in the schools than the


NOTES FOR TEACHERS
»5
scarfs, hangings or clothing, lingerie embroidery for hat or
blouse..
(III) Making over, cleaning and repairing, ripping, cleaning, dyeing
or renovating, recutting, lengthening and making over dresses.
(IV) Upholstery.
Chairs, cushions and couch-covers, repairing mattresses or
upholstered chairs.
(V) Cutting and pattern making — use and adjustment of patterns.
Pattern modelling and economical cutting.
(VI) Millinery.
Frame making and trimming.
(VII) Cooperative work.
Cleaning and making over a dress, upholstering a chair,
weaving a rug or stencilling a hanging for the school.
(VIII) Textile and social suggestions.
The old textiles, as used in embroideries and weavings for
costume, historic costume, simple decorative designs, pres-
ent costume for women (good and bad points), factory and
sweat-shop garments, preparation for employment, wages,
conditions. Betterment.
(IX) The Home— Organization, improvement, accounts, how to live.
(See Note under VI grade outline.)
The Lesson Plan.
Every lesson should be carefully planned beforehand that the subject matter
may be reviewed and the best method of teaching may be decided upon. A
teacher whose method is solely that of dictation, or else to show each pupil indi-
vidually, will not accomplish as much as will the one who relies chiefly on class
discussions combined with such guiding and suggestions as may be necessary.
Clearer ideas of construction and a widening of interest in industrial questions,
important for each child to know, will also result from a carefully prepared dis-
cussion. This holds good even if the subject has been taught many times before.
No two classes are alike and the best results are obtained only when a lesson has
been planned in relation to the characteristics and needs of any group. Handwork
becomes automatic to the expert and the details of the way by which the end was
reached fade from the mind and often require an effort to recall. Therefore, the
teacher should test beforehand her own knowledge of the necessary steps in the
making of any article, that every detail may be clear. Such a review will enable
her to choose the best order of procedure in any particular instance and to elimi-
nate unnecessary or confusing ideas. Economy of effort follows the working out
of the contingencies beforehand, whereas in the unprepared lesson unexpected
knowledge or ignorance will lead to waste of time in unprofitable discussion. The
sewing teacher should make her lesson plan as carefully as does the teacher of
academic subjects. She should look for such results as individual initiative on


28
A SEWING COURSE
8. Disciplinary training.
(1) Careful listening and thinking.
(2) Ready, accurate replies.
(3) Neat work.
(4) Responsible action showing the promise of executive ability.
(5) No waste of time or motion.
(6) Increasing satisfaction at well-done work.
Preparing the Class.
A few suggestive questions — the class response will bring out further questions.
How many have used a dust cloth?
Have you cloths like this at home? (Showing various kinds.)
Why do we have to dust?
What is the best way to do it that we may leave the room clean?
What need is there for care in the making and keeping of a dust-cloth?
What materials are good for them and why?
The Statement of the Aim to the Class.
How many know the way they would like to make a dust-cloth that will
work well; look well; wear well and wash well?
You already know how to make the Running, Hemming, Cross-stitch and
Blanket-stitch. Each girl may choose one of these materials for the cloth and
select one of the stitches she knows to finish the edge. Each must give her reasons
for the choice to the rest of the class.
The first ones who decide and have good reasons may help me with the
cutting, which is not yet complete.
The Lesson.
The Selection.— What material will each select and why? (Takes note of
the various decisions.)
The Cutting. How to Measure.— How large shall we cut the cloth? How
can we be sure the edge is straight so that we can finish it more easily and neatly?
Accurate Folding. Holding in the Ravellings.— How shall we fold in or
cover the raw edges? What stitches will best hold the edge from ravelling?
Selection of Stitches. How to make the ones Chosen.— Class selects and
tells reason for choice and how to proceed with the work. The teacher brings
the children who decide first and wisely to the cutting table (a desk will be sat-
isfactory), and puts them to work to complete the cutting.
Giving out the Necessary Materials.— Will the cutters when they have
completed that work help to give out the cloth, thread and yarn?
The Sewing.
The teacher answers questions, or walks about the class noting difficulties or
giving advice.
The Closing of the Lrsson.
How many have completed the dust cloth?


3°
A SEWING COURSE
A good inexpensive equipment in tools and necessary articles for a class of
20 children can be bought at retail price for $9.00. This would purchase
20 boxes (cloth-covered) at 7c $1.40
1 supply box 35
24 prs. small school scissors at i2j^c 3.00
6 prs. good cutting scissors at 50c 3.00
1 pr. buttonhole scissors 35
^ doz. tape measures 20
y£ doz. emeries 20
2 doz. thimbles -5°
$9.00
The Sewing Laboratory.
In the early grades of the school the sewing is usually conducted in the
regular classrooms. A special room for the later grades is desirable, however,
for cutting, fitting and work on large garments can be more readily undertaken.
Such a room should be light, well-ventilated and cheery. The furniture can be
very simple, but should be suited to its purpose. It should contain work-tables;
a cutting and ironing table; comfortable low broad-seated chairs for the hand-
work; stools for use at the cutting table; cabinets for holding stock, or for finished
or half finished work; cases for the exhibition of illustrative material and for
finished garments; sewing machines; a blackboard; a gas stove, and several
pressing irons. It is well also to add other articles illustrative of household art,
such as old spinning wheels, reels or winders, processes of manufacture, or repre-
sentative handwork of various kinds.
A useful sewing laboratory can be furnished at very small expense. To
equip it for twenty pupils simply, but not handsomely, however, will cost at least
$285.00. The following list will show the necessary expenditures for an adequate
equipment. Extra exhibits and the cases for them will add to the cost, but they
can be provided from time to time as the means will allow.
Teacher's desk $ 9.00
Revolving chair 2.50
Wooden chairs — 2 doz 24.00
6 tables for work — long kitchen 15.00
4 sewing machines 120.00
Wardrobe 35-00
Locker 25.00
6 skirt forms 12.00
6 waist forms 3.00
Stove — oil or gas 2.50
3 flat irons
Poles and curtain— for fitting room 15.00
Long looking glass 20.00
$285.00


NOTES FOR TEACHERS
31
The Annual Exhibit and Supplementary Work.
Annual exhibits are held in many of the public and private schools. These
serve many purposes such as (i) the encouraging of the pupils, (2) the interest-
ing of the parents, and (3) the training of the public. Handwork is usually a
great feature of these occasions. It has become customary, therefore, to retain
all of the completed work of the classes until the end of the school year. This
has an unfortunate side for it eliminates effectually any opportunity for immediate
utilization of the articles made. It is useless to plan each article for some direct
service to the home, or to the school, if the purpose cannot be carried out and the
result discussed when the interest is at its height. Each school must consider for
itself the best way to meet this difficulty. The following plans have been carried
out in different cities. (1) Some students in each class will sew more rapidly
than others and supplementary work mnst be provided for them. It is well to
select, for this purpose, articles of especial interest as they serve as an impetus to
the slower members of the class. The quicker ones can work for the exhibit by
repeating in a more interesting form the exercises just completed or by being
allowed to plan and to make some attractive new articles. ^2) After a series of
articles have been made in a class a vote can be taken by the members as to which
ones will be retained to represent them at the exhibit. These few can be kept to
be returned to the makers after the exhibit, or material can be given to each
worker to make a similar article at home. (3) Purchasing from the children the
work desired for the exhibit.
Warp and Woof.
The threads running the entire length of the material are called the warp
threads. The woof, weft or filling threads are those which cross and interlace
with the warp and form the selvage on each side of the goods. The warp threads
are each as long as the cloth will be and they are put first in the loom. The woof
thread is thrown back and forth across the width of the warp threads by a shuttle
and is one continuous thread. The warp threads are usually stronger than the
woof threads as they have to bear a heavier strain. This strain is apt to make
them straighter than the cross threads, which fact can be clearly seen in the ravel-
lings of some kinds of cloth. Garments are usually cut along the length or warp
way of the cloth as they wear better than when cut across the goods. When
material is torn across the warp threads it gives out a shrill sound but a dull sound
accompanies the tearing of the woof threads. It is necessary sometimes to know
which is th: warp way of a piece of cloth from which the selvage has been
removed. The eye can often tell one from the other by the softer, less wiry, and
less even appearance of the woof. The way the threads break and the sound they
give also indicate the difference.
Sewing for Boys.
In the first three or four years of the school it is well for the boys and the
girls to be taught the same kinds of handwork. The selection should be made
from many fields and sewing (coarse) should be included among the crafts chosen.


A SEWING COURSE
Experience has proved that boys are greatly interested in sewing when it is con-
nected with their pursuits. Such constructive work as bags of coarse canvas for
shoes or books, ball covers, sails, flags and badges, moccasins, sweater mending,
sewing on buttons and simple repairing are illustrations of interests which con-
cern both boys and girls. As sewing is one of the most important of the indus-
tries it is well for boys to gain some practical experience of its difficulties as well
as of its usefulness. They will thus be better prepared to appreciate the condi-
tions of labor in occupations employing the great mass of wage-earning women
as well as large numbers of men. Sewing, itself, will also prove useful to them
now and later and the class of neat adjustment which it requires has proved ad-
vantageous as a preliminary training of the hand for many of the skilled occupa-
tions of men.
Illustrations on the Board or the Frame.
The blackboard may be of much assistance in the presentation of a lesson.
An illustration of the way a stitch is made, or several designs for an article may
be drawn by the teacher before or during the class period. The illustrations in
the Sewing Course are for suggestions for board work. Any teacher can train
herself to do this simple drawing, even if she has had no art training, but a
trained hand can make such illustrations a powerful ally. The demonstration
frame offers another means of showing the way a stitch is made. It is a large
embroidery frame, covered with coarse canvas and raised on a standard so the
class can see it. The teacher makes the stitch on the canvas in large size with
colored wool as she describes it. Such frames can be made easily by any car-
penter or by boys who are taking manual training.
Different Ways of Making Stitches.
Opinions differ as to the best way of making many of the stitches. The
teacher should know all of these methods, but it is not necessary for her to con-
fuse with such details the minds of children who are learning to sew. In giving
a new lesson, she should select the form of stitch which she prefers and teach
that. If it happens that any one of the class has already learned to make the
stitch in a different, but satisfactory, manner, it is better for her to continue to
work in the way to which she is accustomed. When older students are prepar-
ing for teaching, or for trade work, they should consider the various methods of
procedure, as they may be called upon to know them in their chosen vocation.
Left-handed children, unless corrected very early, would better continue to use
their left hands, unless the teacher desires to make them ambidextrous.
Neat Finish and Rapid Work.
Beginners should work slowly at first but dawdling should never be allowed.
The teacher must herself discover the best way to keep each class sewing indus-
triously. In some groups the setting of a time limit for the completion of articles
is an incentive, while in others the very impulse to rush through is followed by
slackness and poor results. The finish of each exercise must be as beautiful as the


NOTES FOR TEACHERS
33
child should or can do. Frayed edges and unfinished interiors are not only ugly
but indicative of a lack of care in the worker. The most simple article may have
the beauty of neatness, and even a child can be trained to see it. A class should
learn to work well without any waste of time. Rapidity is desirable if the result
can be satisfactory.
The Tape Measure.
The use of a tape measure or a rule should begin early. Very young children
can be taught to make their own measures by marking off the divisions on strips
of paper or bristol board. They can keep the accurate ones in their workboxes
for use later. Older girls should gradually learn to depend upon themselves when
small dimensions are required. This is especially important when such students
expect to enter any of the trades requiring careful measurements. Such accurate
judgment leads to economy of time which has frequently a money value.
Length of Thread.
Children usually take too long a thread in sewing. They must be taught the
right length, which is about one half or three quarters of a yard, though in bast-
ing a longer thread is advisable. The usual directions are to measure the thread
from shoulder to shoulder, or across the body from waist line to shoulder, or from
the end of the ringer to the elbow. The thread should never be bitten off, for it
harms the enamel of the teeth. Fine cotton thread may be broken, but coarse
thread would better be cut. It is well therefore for every child to have her own
scissors in her workbox.
Fastening the Thread.
As children seldom make knots neatly, they should be taught how to fasten
the thread strongly without them. The knot, however, should be practised, for
it is necessary in basting, overcasting and gathering, and useful always. A small,
well-made knot, concealed in the material is permissible. Skilled workers usually
prefer to use them as it saves time.
Position in Sewing.
The position for sewing is an upright one, bending the body forward from
the waist, if necessary, but never hanging the head downward to the work.
Physical injury results from such an attitude, and it is also impossible for a pupil
tc be as attentive and alert when sitting in a slouching position.
Cleanliness.
Clean hands and clothing should be obligatory in sewing classes, for good
work may be spoiled by lack of neatness. The teacher of sewing should take
occasion to discuss hygienic living, and should train her pupils to realize the direct
moral effect of care and cleanliness of person and product.





CARDBOARD SEWING
35
No. 1. CARDBOARD SEWING.
MATERIALS FOR PRACTICE.
Cards. , Coarse Wool Tapestry Needle.
Cotton or Linen.
Application—Needlecase or blotter.
Designs pricked on cards and followed by the needle are often used for
the first steps in sewing. In this way a child may begin to use the tools and
gain control of her muscles. When they are utilized, scope should be given
for simple creative thought in the decoration of the work and in the planning
for its use. This may be the foundation for the designing of simple articles
for dress or for household use, and also for cultivating taste in every-day life.
In the kindergarten this class of sewing is frequently seen. In the first
primary grade the children are generally ready for a step beyond, but card-
board may have its use in recalling the work of the previous year. In the
kindergarten the threading and knotting are usually done by the teacher, but
in the primary grades the children can gradually learn to rely upon them-
selves.
Cards in varying sizes and colors are on the market already pricked,
or the teacher can prepare her own cards. Pricking pads and needles can
be purchased. Any simple design made by the teacher or the children may
be used. Running, stitching and cross-stitch are good ones on the cards. Knots
must be used to hold the thread. The teacher may have to fasten off, as this
is often too difficult for children.
Practice.—Take two cards with a simple design on each; carry out
these designs with one of the simple stitches. Fasten off by tying a knot
in the wool and letting it slip up to the hole; or else put the needle through
the last stitch on the wrong side in such a way that it will tie the wool into
a knot.
Suggestion.—Very pretty needle-books can be made by enclosing soft
flannel leaves between the cards. The leaves may be pinked on
the edges or finished with the blanket-stitch. Blotters, bookmarkers, book-
covers and penwipers may be made in a similar way. The teacher should
encourage the making of original designs and plans for attractive and useful
articles. Children are full of devices and only need encouragement and
direction to express themselves adequately.


CANVAS WORK
37
No. 2. CANVAS WORK.
MATERIALS FOR PRACTICE.
Burlap, Java, Colored Zephyr, Tapestry Needle,
or some similar canvas. or wool.
Application.—Mats, rugs, bookcovers, bags or needle-books.
Soft, coarse canvas is an excellent medium on which to teach young chil-
dren how to use the needle, as it does not require too careful work for them.
The form of the stitch can be studied, decorative effects can be easily secured,
and very attractive, useful articles can be made from it.
Suggestion.—In the first grade burlap canvas may be used as the first
textile. Numerous articles may be made out of it. Stitches may be used to
decorate it attractively; if it is to be fringed, the form of the overcasting-
stitch is good; it may be worked on the burlap and the edge fringed afterward.
The blanket-stitch may be used where the edge is to be kept from raveling.
Several rows of running-stitches and cross-stitches make an attractive border,
or other stitches may be used for this purpose. The stitches should always
be coarse. In canvas where the holes, though distinct, are near together a
number of holes should be skipped. Soft canvas is better than tightly twisted
stiff canvas. Java canvas, in some soft color, may be used late in the first
year or in the second year; needlebooks, penwipers, portieres, tablecovers or
postal-card cases, may all call forth ideas worth carrying out. Suitability of
color, decoration and material to the object in hand should be a prominent
feature in the lessons.
Class teaching is an advantage, for all may thus have a feeling of common
purpose and be aided by the free expression of opinion; even though the
general class exercise is the same, individuality may be constantly appealed
to in carrying out designs or in the selection of the kind of article which will
be made of the canvas.





40
A SEWING COURSE
Second Card. Prepare the second card the same way as the first, but
increase the number of holes. Put in the warp threads as in the first model;
the woof or filling should now be inserted in such a way over and under the
warp threads that a pattern may be formed. See Figures 1 and 2. A simple
twill may be used. Pattern is the result of the way the woof threads inter-
sect the warp. Simple alternation does not make a pattern. Let each teacher
make a design of her own; she can practice first, if she wishes, with the cut
strips used in kindergarten weaving. When she makes a design she likes
she can use it on the second card. The warp threads can be a different color
from the woof. Several colors can be used. She can mount the two woven
pieces on the bristol board pages with or without the cards.
Suggestion.—Primitive races began some form of weaving early in their
development. Such elementary hand work can be adapted readily to chil-
dren and the product is interesting and useful. The looms should be simple
in construction and very plain weaving with coarse threads should be attempt-
ed at first. Soft loosely spun threads, such as rug yarn, roving, which can
be bought from spinning mills, or lamp-wick make good woof threads. Chil-
dren who have woven strips of paper in the kindergarten will easily under-
stand how pattern is made. The teacher should discuss with her classes the
making of different kinds of cloth. Pieces of loosely woven material or can-
vas should be ravelled out by the children that each may see the way the
threads cross each other. Examples of full width cloth should be at hand
to illustrate various patterns and the selvage. Each child should note the
warp threads, running lengthwise of the goods; the cross or woof threads,
which bind the warp threads together and which in turning back form the
aelvage at the side. Such simple terms in cloth construction as warp beam,
cloth beam, shuttle, harness, heald, heddle, batten, and treadle should be used
from the first. Knitting, as used in the manufacture of sweaters and stock-
ings, should be contrasted with weaving. Little knitters can be made of
large spools with pins or thin nails surrounding the hole at one end. Toys
like this can be purchased by any teacher if she has never seen one of these
devices and the children can be taught to make their own. It is a customary
thing for children to make such knitters and to use the product for horse-
reins or for mats. The knitting is done by passing zephyr or yarn through
the spool to the end containing the pins, and then by winding it twice alter-
nately around each pin and again once around outside of all of the pins. The
material is made by taking the loop on each pin and slipping it over the head
in regular succession and by passing the worsted around the outside of the
pins whenever a complete circuit is made. Lessons in weaving and knitting
should be always connected with the manufacture and darning of clothing.
Weaving may be practiced first on cards: simple or elaborate patterns can
be made as desired. Each child should, however, try to make a pattern of
her own. For later practice an old slate frame, from which the slate has


42
A SEWING COURSE
No. 4. FOLDING A HEM.
MATERIALS FOB PRACTICE.
Crinoline or Paper, 5x5 Inches (2 pieces).
Application.—Duster or Washcloth.
Rule.—A hem is made by folding a piece of material twice over. The
depth of the first turn depends on the material; it should be just deep enough
to secure it from fraying. In fine muslin it may be less than % of an inch;
the second turn is regulated by the requirements of the garment for which it
is prepared. In order to turn a deep hem accurately, a gauge or a card
notched at the proper depth may be used. A fold is held in place as it is
turned by creasing it with the finger and thumb, or if this stretches the cloth,
it may be folded between the fingers and pinched. The material should be
held up in the hands as the folding and creasing are done, and not laid on
a table or desk. In a narrow hem the second fold just covers the first. Square
corners should fold one over the other. In a wider hem the corners may either
be squared or mitered. If the former, and the material is thick, an oblong of
cloth should be cut out, as in preparing for Miter No. 1. If the latter, see
Miters No. 1 and No. 2 below.
Practice.—Take two pieces of crinoline or paper, fold a narrow hem
on each side of the four sides of one piece, and a half inch hem on each of
the four sides of the other piece. Turn two opposite sides before folding
the other sides over them. This will make regularity at the corners. Miter
the two diagonal corners of the wide hem, using Miter No. 1 for one corner,
and Miter No. 2 for the other. Cut an oblong from under the square corners
of the wide hem.
Suggestion.—The folding of hems may be given to little children. It
is well for them to understand the tape measure and make one for themselves
before they begin the folding. The marking and folding must be done care-
fully. Manila paper or crinoline are good for the first practice. The paper
should be raised in the hands for folding. Samples of woven material which
may illustrate to the children the varying depths which must be allowed in
the first fold of the hem, on account of the fraying of the cloth, will help to
make this lesson interesting and useful. Dusters of cheesecloth can be made
by the first and second grades. The folds can be held sufficiently well with
the coarse running-stitch made with wool or zephyr. The older girls should
use the various miterings (No. 5) at the corners of the pieces on which they
practice the folding.
No. 5. MITERING.
MATERIALS FOR PRACTICE.
See Nos. 4 and 6.
Application.—Dust-cloth, doiley or holder.
To miter is to change a fold from having a square end at the corner to
an abrupt angle in which one fold will exactly meet the one at right angles


44
A SEWING COURSE
Nos. 6, 7 and 8. RUNNING.
MATERIALS FOB PRACTICE.
White or Colored Cotton,
No. 60 or 70.
White Cotton, No. 80.
Needle No. 8. Needle No. 10.
Unbleached Muslin
6x314 Inches.
White Muslin
5x2*4 Inches.
Application.—Duster (See No. 4). In combination with other stitches
(See No. 23).
Use.—For basting, joining breadths of material, gathering and tucking.
Fitness.—It is rapidly executed, strong enough to be used in a seam
where the strain is not great, of a form which enables the materials to be
drawn up on a thread as in gathering, and easy of removal, as required in
basting.
Varieties of the Stitch.—Plain running whether large or small; bast-
ing, regular and irregular; gathering, including gauging and shirring.
Rule.—For Plain Running. Each stitch and space must be of the same
length; the stitches follow each other consecutively; the number of threads
taken up by the needle depends on the stuff used, and the required fineness
of the stitch. For very fine running, as few as two threads of the material
may be taken up. It is not neces-
sary, however, to count the threads;
the eye may be trained to judge
the correct length. The position
for holding the work is with the
thumb and first finger of the left
hand, while the needle is inserted
with the right hand. The thimble
should be against the needle, the
thumb pressed on the needle, and
the first finger back of the needle
on the other side of the cloth. The
left hand pushes the cloth on the
needle. When proficient the
needle is seldom removed from the
cloth during the progress of the
work. Unless the knot can be made
very small and can be well con-
cealed, it is better to begin with-
out one. In the latter case take a double stitch which may be covered by
the first stitch showing on the right side; finish off with a double stitch on the
wrong side in the first space back of the place from which the thread comes
out; this will strongly fasten the thread under a stitch and will therefore
not show on the right side.
Rule.—For Basting. To hold together two or more pieces of material
until a strong stitch can secure them. Begin with a knot. (1) Regular bast-
ing is plain running made with large stitches. It is used where careful

r

Fig. 6.—Running, Gathering and
Basting.


RUNNING
45
basting is required (See Fig. 6, a). (2) Irregular basting. The first variety
of it is used for preparing for further sewing either by hand or machine,
where there is little danger of the material slipping apart and a straight line
of direction is of benefit. The stitch consists of one very long running stitch
showing on the surface, and a short stitch taken through to the surface again
(See Fig. 6, b). The second variety of irregular basting is used when the
cloth or some heavy material is to be basted together for machine or hand
work. It is stronger than the first variety mentioned. The stitch consists
of one very long running stitch and two or more short running stitches. The
third variety of irregular basting (see Fig. 6, c), is used in dressmaking,
especially in holding material to the lining. The stitch consists of one long
slanting stitch on the surface and a short slanting running stitch through
the material. The position of the hand in basting is very free as the stitch
is long. It cannot be held as for fine running.
Rule.—For Gathering. To draw up material on a previously inserted
thread. By this means fullness may be inserted into a narrow space. In
certain garments width of material is required to give the limbs full play,
but to keep the garment in place the material must be confined within nar-
row limits. This is accomplished in gathering. (1) Regular gathering is
a plain running stitch. Two or more lines of running stitches of the same
size may be so placed that the stitches in one line are exactly above or below
those on the other line; when drawn up this form of gathering is called gaug-
ing. Two or more lines of running stitches of the same size may be placed
one below the other with no attempt to make the stitches in one line fall
directly under those in the line above. When this form of gathering is drawn
up it is called shirring. (2) Irregular gathering. When the material is to
be stroked after gathering, or when a large amount of thick material is to
be brought into a small compass, an irregular running stitch is better than a
regular one (see Fig. 6, 6). For stroking twice as much material should be
covered by the needle on the right side of the material as is taken up by the
needle. In very fine material short stitches should be taken; it facilitates
the work of gathering if previous to taking the stitches, the edge of the
material where the stitches are to go is turned down and creased. Make a
knot in the thread and take through the crease the irregular gathering stitch;
when this is finished the gathers must be placed. Draw up the gathering
thread tightly, and secure it around a pin. Begin at the left side, and with
the fingers place the gathers as neatly as possible; then take a coarse needle
or pin and carefully stroke every gather straight along the woven threads,
pushing it under the left thumb and forefinger and pinching it; no scratch-
ing noise should be made, as this shows the material is being injured. The
upper part of the gathers must also be laid in place. In some materials
the hand stroking is sufficient. The thread should be a little longer than
the length of the part in which it is finally to go (when a long gather is to
be made, as for a petticoat, the material should be divided into four or more
parts and a new thread taken for each part). Fine thread doubled is better
for gathering than one single coarse thread as the two are less apt to break
than the one.
For dress skirts, gathering is often done on single or double material
which is quite thick. In this case two or more lines of irregular gathering
stitches may be taken, the stitches in one line being directly under those in
the other, and the gathers drawn into the length of the band without need
of stroking. The stitch will consist of a small amount taken up by the needle


STITCHING AND BACKSTITCHING
Nos. 9 and 10. STITCHING AND BACKSTITCHING. MATERIALS FOR PRACTICE.
Bleached or Colored Cotton, No. 60. Needle, No. 9.
Unbleached Muslin,
4x2i/2 Inches (2 pieces).
Application.—Beanbag or pan lifter. See also Nos. 21, 22, 23.
Use.—Where strength is required for seams, holding bands, tapes and
hems. The stitching stitch is also used ornamentally.
Fitness.—As double stitches they are strong and adapted to purposes
where durability is required as in seams.
Rule for Stitching.—The stitch is worked from right to left on double
material. First baste carefully together the two materials; the basting may
serve as a guide to the worker, and also keep the materials from slipping apart.
A seam should be made far enough from the edge of the cloth to avoid the
danger of raveling. Begin by a small knot or by a few running stitches on
. the wrong side, which may be held down later
a by the stitching stitches,
and bring the thread to
the right side of the ma-
terial about yg of an
b inch from the end of the
pIG i Stitching. c'ot^ wnere *ne work is
to begin. Take a short
stitch back on the upper side of the cloth and a stitch twice as long forward
on the wrong side. When the thread again comes to the surface make a stitch
back to meet the stitch already made. The effect on the right side is a series
of short stitches, one meeting the other (see Fig. 7, a), and on the wrong
side a cord-like effect, made by the folding over of the long stitches (see Fig.
7, b). This is especially the fact if the stitch is made very carefully. Hold
the work over the first finger of the left hand, and slant the needle toward
the left shoulder.
Rule for Backstitching.—The same rule applies to backstitching as to
stitching, except that the stitches on the right side, instead of exactly meeting
have a space between as they
go but half way back (see
Fig. 8). This makes the
stitch on the back three times
the length of the one on the
Fig. 8.—Backstitching. riSht side. The names of these
stitches are often confused,
as the terms are used indiscriminately. The explanation is given that the
name of the stitching stitch was originally backstitching, and the other stitch
was called half-backstitching; for brevity each stitch was relieved of half its
title, and confusion of ideas resulted.


48
A SEWING COURSE
Practice.—Take two pieces of unbleached muslin, 4x2% inches, baste
them carefully together into a seam ^4 of an inch from the raw edges. Make
a line of stitching one-half way across in colored thread, directly above or
below the basting line. Let the stitches be small enough for strength, but
large enough for their regularity or irregularity to be distinctly seen. Hav-
ing made one-half of the seam with stitching, the backstitching may be used
for the other half, so that the appearance of the two stitches may be compared.
Suggestion.—It is not necessary at first to insist that a beginner should
make the stitch mechanically perfect. If it is even and strong enough for its
purpose it should be accepted and utilized on an article. Stitching is an
attractive and simple stitch on canvas, and can be thus given to young pupils.
They should notice the rope-like effect at the back and also that it may be
marred by a change in the way the needle is inserted. Care in this coarse
work will help in gaining the technical skill needed later. Stitching is not
difficult, for the movements are simple and practice soon renders them easy.
Coarse, soft, unbleached muslin is good for practicing the stitches. A
basted or creased line may help in the first attempt to make an even Beam. A pencil line, a stamped stitch or a drawn thread should not be used as a
guide, for the judgment of the children should be trained. It is better for
them to make mistakes and correct them than to be given helps which do not
develop their own powers. The stitch should be utilized as soon as it can be
made sufficiently well for a seam, as the skill needed will come better through
making some article than by many repetitions of the practice piece. Doll's
clothing, clothing cases and bags of various kinds may be made.
Application.—On the seams of articles or garments. See No. 23. Use.—To keep the raw edges of materials from raveling. Fitness.—The form is adapted to hold threads from raveling without
making the raw edge stiff.
Rule.—The stitch is loose and slanting, and taken over the raw edges of
material. It is made usually from right to left (some prefer to make it from
left to right). The stitches are of equal size, the depth and distance apart
depend on the character of the material, the object is merely to keep it from
raveling (see Pig. 9). Begin with a knot. In seams conceal it between the
raw edges. Hold the work over the first finger, or the first and second fingers
No. 11. OVERCASTING.
MATERIALS FOR PRACTICE.
Raw Edges op the Practice Pieces.
Cotton No. 60.
Needle No. 9.

Fig. 9.—Overcasting.
of the left hand. Place the
needle over the raw edges
and through the material,
slanting it toward the left
shoulder. The stitches should always be the same distance
from the raw edge and the
same distance apart. When
a new thread is necessary, in-
sert the needle as if to take
a new stitch, withdraw it, and


50 A SEWING COURSE
No. 1. This form of the
1 |\ * stitch is two running stitches | J \ and one backstitch (see Fig. 10). It has the effect of a
line of running stitches, on
the side toward the worker,
— f"^r-- —' —— b and makes an attractive fin-
Fig. 10.—Running and Backstitching. First is.h. » is used for seams Be-
VARIETY. a, RIGHT SIDE; b, WRONG SIDE. f" ™th. a «ma11 kn0t- ?T
fastened in the seam. Take
two or more running stitches, which can be counted on the side toward the
worker, and then twice the length of one of the running stitches on the needle,
and a backstitch will cover half the space. Pass needle forward under the
backstitch and ahead the length of one running stitch, and bring the needle
to the right side again to begin a new running stitch.
No. 2. This form of the stitch has two running stitches and one stitching
stitch. It is desirable in the fell to have the wrong side of the stitch attrac-
tive, as it is that part which shows on the completion of the work. Care is
needed in the fastening of the thread at the beginning. Take a careful
double stitch on the side on which the work is done, or fasten with a small knot
i i ■ ——— , between the raw edges of the seam. Take two running stitches,
and bring the needle to the right
side as if for a third; instead of
continuing, take a stitch back
| j to the previous running stitch,
"™" ^m "~~ *"* "~~ ™* mmm mm and bring it forward on the
Fig. 11.—Running and Backstitching, wrong side aeross the last run.
Second variety, a right side; ning stitch and then to the
b WRONG SIDE. right side jn the 8ame p]ace the
former stitch came through. This will make one stitch over the other on
the wrong side, Fig. 11, 6, but the effect is the running stitch. Three stitches
meet on the right side, Fig. 11, a.
There is another form of stitch frequently used. Take several running
stitches and a stitching stitch which will meet the last running stitch. Pass
the needle behind the stitching stitch and ahead the length of a running
stitch, and bring it to the right side for the running stitch again. This
form is not as neat in appearance as the others.
Practice.—Take two pieces of bleached or unbleached muslin, 4x2x/2
inches, baste them carefully together into a seam V4 of an inch from the raw
edges. Make a line of backstitching (form No. 1) one-half way across, di-
rectly above or below the basting line. Continue the remainder of the seam
with form No. 2. Practice probably will not be needed on the third variety
of the stitch. The French seam is often made with No. 1 and the fell with
No. 2.


HEMMING
51
No. 14. HEMMING.
MATERIALS FOB PRACTICE.
Unbleached Muslin, Colored Cotton, No. 60. Needle, No. 9.
6x2y2 Inches.
White Victoria Lawn, White Cotton, No. 100-150. Needle, No. 10-12.
4Vi>xl Inches.
Application.—Washcloth, handkerchief, apron, kimono. See No. 23.
Use.—A means of finishing the raw edges in clothing and other articles
such as aprons, dusters and towels.
Fitness.—The double fold of material and the slanting stitch make a
strong finish.
Rule.—The stitch is worked from right to left on the edge of a folded
hem. When the hem is well turned down and when necessary carefully basted,
lay the work across the first finger of the left hand, with the fold turned to-
ward the outside of the hand. Make a small knot and conceal it under the
hem or point the needle to the right into the extreme end of the folded hem,
and draw through all but a little end of thread, which must lie along the hem
to be sewed in with the first stitches. Now point the needle toward the left,
first into the material and then through again into the edge of the hem. Make
slanting stitches. (The hemming stitch is sometimes made straight with the
hem instead of slanting; it is less strong in this way.) Uniformity of slant and
size are more important than small stitches for beginners. If pupils are taught
to notice carefully, they will observe that in a correct position the two thumbs

Fig. 12.—Hemming Stitch on Canvas. Fig. 13.—Hemming. Taking op New
Thread.
are at right angles with each other. When the thread has been pulled through
the fold on the wrong side, be particular not to begin the next stitch directly
under it, but a little in advance. The stitch is composed of two parts, slant-
ing toward each other, and in close hemming forms a tent shape, the two sides
of which are equal. (See Fig. 12.) The needle should go fully through to


HEMMING
S3
Sunning, stitching and hemming are so universally utilized in articles of
everyday use that any child who has learned them, is able to be of use to
herself and to others. It is in the hands of the teacher to suggest uses for
them by showing the classes hemming on garments, by giving various articles
to construct and by encouraging free expression of opinion to develop ideas
connected with them.
Nos. 15, 16 and 17. OVERHANDING.
MATERIALS FOR PRACTICE.
White Cotton,
No. 80 or 100.
White Cotton,
No. 80 or 100.
White Cotton,
No. 80 or 100.
Needle, No. 10 or 11.
Needle, No. 10 or 11.
Needle, No. 10 or 12.
No. 1. Narrow Striped
Gingham, 4x4 Inches.
No. 2. Damask,
4x4 Inches.
No. 3. White Muslin,
Two selvage strips, 4x2 in.
Torchon Lace, y2 in. wide,
9V2 Inches.
Application.—Pinballs, holders, napkins and cases of various kinds. See
Fig. 40.
Use.—To so fasten together two pieces of material that the joining will
scarcely be visible, yet the seam will be strong, as in a patch; uniting seams
and selvages for underclothing and bed linen; hemming table linen and sew-
ing on lace.
Fitness.—The close stitch is strong, while the form makes it almost
invisible.
Rule.—Place together and baste the two pieces of material to be over-
handed. If the edges are raw, a small fold should be turned on each piece;
if selvages, they can be placed exactly together. The direction of the sewing
is from right to left (it is sometimes worked from left to right). The form
of the stitch is a slanting line meeting a straight one. See Fig. 14. It is
better to work the stitch on the wrong side of the material, as it places the
slanting part of the stitch on the wrong side. The straight part falls in the
direction in which the threads are woven, and thus shows less. In over-
handing a patch to a garment, however, it is easier to insert the patch from
the right side, the slight imperfection arising from the showing of the slant-
ing part of the stitch is offset by the greater difficulty of setting the patch
in satisfactorily from the wrong side. In overhanding, the material is held
horizontally in the left hand, with
the edges lying along the first
finger; the thumb and first finger
keep the material in place; the
right elbow should be raised from
the side, and the needle should
point to the chest in each stitch;
a knot may be used, but often in-
terferes with a neat finish. The
thread can be fastened down by
the first stitches, in which case be-
gin by pointing the needle to the

Pig. 14.—Overhanding.


54
A SEWING COURSE
right, and taking the first stitch in the fold at the extreme right end. Leave
an end of thread along the fold, to be fastened down by the first few stitches.
The stitches should be a couple of threads deep and should not be crowded,
that a flat seam may result. This is especially important in selvages, as, if
the stitch is too deep, it makes an ugly ridge. In very fine work when a new
thread is necessary the short end of the old one may be taken out of the fold
nearest the worker and a new one inserted in the same hole; both threads
should lie together between the folds or selvages to be held down by the next
stitches. Finish off by sewing back a few stitches. Take the basting thread
out and open the seam with the nail. It should lie perfectly flat and the
stitches should be scarcely visible.
Practice.—First practice piece. Overhanding a seam. Take a piece of
narrow striped gingham, 4x4 inches, cut it apart between the stripes about
an inch from one side; turn narrow folds on the cut edges, matching the
stripes so that the pattern will be perfect on the right side; lay the right
sides together and baste if necessary. Overhand together according to the
rule for overhanding. If more practice is needed cut from one of the corners
of the practice piece a diagonal iy2 inches along the straight sides; cut from
another piece of the same kind of material a bias piece to match in pattern
and overhand together, being careful not to stretch the bias edges while sewing.
Second Practice Piece.—Napery stitch, or overhanding on linen. Or-
dinary hemming is not strong enough for damask, and overhanding is used
in its place. Take a piece of damask 4x4 inches, turn as narrow a hem
as possible (the narrower the hem the better the effect). When the hem
is turned turn it back again on itself the exact width of the hem; overhand
the fold to the main body of the material.
Third Practice Piece.—Overhanding selvages and overhanding lace. In
bed linen and underclothing, selvages are frequently overhanded together.
Take two selvage strips of muslin 4x2 inches, overhand carefully together,
not taking too deep a stitch, or an ugly seam will result. On completing the
seam, fold % inch hem along two adjoining sides of the practice piece, mitering
the corner. (See Miter No. 2.) Overhand narrow lace along these two sides.
The lace should be held toward the worker; it should be held loosely, but not
full, if it is held too tight it will not launder well. When the corner is
reached, twice the width of the lace should be allowed at the turn, so it will
not draw; this fullness may be held in % of an inch space on each side of
the corner.
Suggestion.—The form of the overhanding is attractive, and may be
used as decoration in the canvas work adapted to the early grades. (See
No. 2.) Overhanding fine material together is too hard for young children.
It is especially difficult for them to unite the selvages, as the turn back of
the woof thread in the weaving makes an unequal and stiff edge for the
needle to push through, but a deep stitch is incorrect. Overhanding on the
bias requires precision and neatness in completing the pattern, if there is
one. It may be practiced by the pupils, if necessary. Children should not
be allowed to make the stitch incorrectly. It is better, therefore, to wait
until they are capable of doing fine work before teaching it to them. As
soon as they learn it they should utilize it. Many things can be made with
the stitch such as needlebooks and pin cases, where two pieces of cardboard
can be covered with material and overhanded together; table-cloths; napkins;
pillow and bolster cases; book-covers; lined bags, and pin cushions. Children


OVERHANDING
SS
enjoy making them and quickly realize that they can be of use at home or
to the people they know. By using the art lessons in connection extremely
attractive and often original designs can be secured.
Nos. 18 and 19. ^GARMENT BIAS AND TRUE BIAS.
A bias cut in cloth is a slanting or diagonal severing of the material.
Both warp and woof threads will be cut. (See Fig. 15.) It may vary with
the requirements of the garment. A true or perfect bias, however, does not
vary. It is always the diagonal of the square. It equally severs both warp
and woof threads. (Fig. 16.)

Fig. 15.—Garment Bias. (Gore.) Fig. 16.—True Bias.
GARMENT BIAS.
MATERIALS FOR PRACTICE.
Kindergarten Paper (Colored), 4x3 Inches.
Brown Manuka Paper, 13V2x4Vk Inches.
Striped Paper for Bias Facing.
Application.—Petticoat or small dress skirt.
Use and Fitness.—The slanting cut taken in some garments such as in
drawers, chemises and in gores of skirts, makes them fit better, disposes of
unnecessary material, and decreases undesirable width.
A gore is a piece of material in which the width is narrowed from bot-
tom to top. In a skirt one side of the gore is usually straight and the other
bias, but fashion sometimes dictates that both sides shall be bias. In the
latter case two slanting pieces will often be thrown together in one seam,
but as the bias stretches easily it is apt to be unsatisfactory, especially for
laundering. It may be strengthened by stitching a stay-tape or a straight
piece of material in with the seam. When a straight edge is joined to a bias
one, the former will support the latter and keep it from stretching. Gores
may be placed at each side of the front breadth of a skirt with the straight
edges to the front. The amount of slant in the gore depends upon the figure


$6
A SEWING COURSE
of the wearer and the requirements of fashion. A simple rule often followed
in white underskirts is to put two parts at the bottom of the gore to one at
the top. In cutting a skirt from white muslin or any material of sufficient
width, which is the same on both sides, the gores may be economically cut from
one length of material as the wrong side can be utilized. In the making of
drawers and chemises the bias sides are laid together, care must be taken not
to stretch the seam while sewing them together.
Rule.—(For cutting gores from muslin.) Take a piece of material long
enough for the length of the skirt to be made. Divide the top and the bot-
tom of the width into thirds and mark. Fold the cloth so that there will
be one-third at one end and two-thirds at the other, and cut apart through
the fold. (Fig. 15.) This will give two gores; as the material is the same
on both sides and one gore may be turned wrong side out, both gores can be
used in one skirt. This cannot be done in material which differs on the right
and wrong sides.
For applied work in the use of gores, sewing seams on the bias, and
other principles of garment construction, a little gored petticoat may be cut
and made. A simple way to teach a class which cannot draft is to take a
strip of muslin 13^ inches by 4^ inches (this is three yards of muslin
reduced one-eighth scale) and cut the length into three equal parts. One
piece may be cut into gores. Another piece is for the back and should have
a vent cut down the center. The third piece is for the front, it can have
one-fourth or one-sixth (according to fullness required) taken from each
side of the top and sloped to nothing at the bottom. Lay a straight side
of one of the gores on each side of the front, baste carefully, and make a
fell or French seam. (See Nos. 20, 21, 22.) Cut off the part of the bias
that extends below the seam. Join the back to the gores in the same way.
The facing for the bottom of the skirt may be bias or straight. The former
fits better. It is possible to turn up the bottom of the skirt into a hem in-
stead of putting on a facing, but allowance must be made for it in the cut-
ting of the skirt.
The new principles needed in putting together a skirt, i. e., felling or
French seam, gathering, stroking and placket, putting on a band and button-
holes, should be practiced before completing the petticoat. Practice in the
use of the true bias may be combined with these by the cutting of a bias
facing or the putting on of a bias ruffle.
Practice.—First Practice Piece.—Take Kindergarten or other paper
4x3 inches (colored on one side and white on the other). Divide it into
thirds along the three-inch ends and mark. Double it over so that it will
slant from the first mark at one end to the second on the opposite end.
(Fig. 15.) Cut through the crease. This will give two gores and serve as
a basis of comparison for economical cutting with the gores in the petticoat
of manila paper, as it shows that material differing on the right and wrong
sides cannot be turned wrong side out and utilized.
Second Practice Piece.—Take manjla paper 13y2x4y 2 inches, cut it into
a skirt and baste it together according to the rule. Take striped tissue paper
cut it into one inch wide bias strips (see true bias), and baste it on the bot-
tom of the skirt. Fold placket No. 1 (see No. 29) in the back of the skirt.
Suggestion.—It is well for every pupil to make at least a small skirt,
if, however, there is not time for this, they should cut one from paper
and baste it together, comparing their work continually with the way to


GARMENT BIAS
57
proceed in cotton material. The length of the cotton skirt should be cut
along the warp, as cloth is stronger in that direction. It is well to have a
class doll or a lay figure so that measurements may be taken on it and if
there is not time to make a full sized skirt the children may be able to
see the relation between the small and the large size. This lesson should be
so thoroughly given that each child can make one for herself at home. A
very profitable result will follow this subject if the class will carefully cal-
culate the amount of material for a full sized skirt and also decide the
amount of bias or straight material needed for a ruffle for it. They should
estimate the cost of the skirt finished in various ways (ruffles, embroidery,
lace, tucks). To this may be added the expense of laundering with com-
parisons of the difference between a plain or an elaborate garment so that
the economics of dress may be brought out. Each pupil should decide upon
the way she wishes to make her skirt. It will be well also for the teacher
from this lesson on to give frequent opportunities to the class to design,
measure and cut various garments that they may gradually gain a good
foundation for later drafting and garment making. (See Drafting in the Notes
for Teachers.) When the class is too inexperienced to make button-holes
in the skirt band, they can sew on tapes for strings instead. (See No. 33.)
TRUE BIAS.
MATERIALS FOR PRACTICE.
Kindergarten or Manila Paper, 5x2*4 Inches.
Application.—Bias ruffle on skirt, bias facing on petticoat, a gusset,
and folds for trimming.
Use.—For folds, facings and bindings.
Fitness.—It stretches more than material cut on the straight and can
be smoothly fitted into places where straight material would have to be
puckered.
Rule.—To cut a true bias is to evenly sever both warp and woof threads.
The width of the material is laid down the length of the selvage and the
cut is made through the slanting fold. In finding a perfect square, a true
bias is found in the diagonal fold. (See Fig. 16.) It may be noticed in
folding that the warp threads are laid on a line with the woof threads. Any
deviation from this will keep the bias from being true. In buying material
on the bias, the end is folded over, the true bias found and the diagonal
fold cut through. The measuring for the quantity required is then made
first along one selvage and then along the other. A fold is made from one
selvage to the other, and the cut is made through this fold. As greater
length is obtained along the bias strip than along the selvage an equal loss
will be shown in the width of the strip; about one-third is thus gained in
one way and lost in the other. This must be remembered in calculating
the amount of material required. Material bought on the straight will have
to be folded in the same way to obtain the bias. In calculating for the
strips, allow one-third more along the selvage than the required width of
the bias, measure along the selvage and chalk across. If a number of strips
are needed, measure four at a time and cut afterwards into halves and


58
A SEWING COURSE
quarters, or fold the strips carefully one over the other and cut through
the folds. The triangle left at either end may be utilized in some materials.
(See bias ruffle.)
A gusset is, in its usual form, a triangle with a true bias at the base.
The stretching of the bias helps to make it fit and the triangle gores are
at the end of the seam.
Care must be taken in piecing bias strips, that the warp or woof threads
in all the strips run the same way, or the joining will show. When prop-
erly adjusted the two will form a right angle. In uniting bias pieces, the
edges at either end of the two strips, as they are laid face to face, must over-
lap the width of the seam, so that the top of the strip will be even after the
seam is taken.
Practice.—Take paper 5x2y2 inches. Fold the narrow side that it
may exactly meet the long, press it over into a triangle and cut through
the fold. In order to compare the relation of measurement on the selvage
to that through the bias strips take the larger piece of paper, measure one
inch on each side and rule a line across. Now measure it all into one-inch
wide bias pieces by placing the measure at right angles with the bias cut.
Put a dot at each inch at the top and the bottom of the paper to the end
of the strip. Rule lines diagonally across through the dots.
BIAS RUFFLE
MATERIALS FOR PRACTICE.
Triangle of Fine Checked Gingham, Cotton, No. 80-100. Needle, 10-11.
6 Inches on Straight Sides.
Cord 6 Inches.
Application.—Trimming for underclothing or dolls' clothes.
This exercise is to show the uniting and hemming of bias pieces, and
also the economizing of material in the utilization of a triangle.
Practice.—Take a triangle of checked gingham the straight sides of
which are six inches. Fold back the triangle so it comes one-half an inch
below the base and cut through the fold. Cut the base into two equal parts.
A bias piece may then be joined with a fine running stitch to each side of
the triangle, matching the pattern if there is any. Allow the apex of the
triangle to extend as far beyond the seams as the matching of the pattern will
allow. A narrow hem should be made on the bottom of the bias strip thus
formed. The top may be turned over a cord and a casing run in, being
careful not to catch any stitch in the cord. Draw the ruffle up and put
a knot in each end of the cord so it will not slip through the casing.
If a ruffle is to be placed on a garment, that will take the place of practice.
Suggestion.—Every effort should be made to have classes understand
the relation of the gain in length to the loss in width in the bias. It is well
to have problems presented which will deal with the purchase of material
and the calculations of amounts required for different sized bands or ruf-
fles. For instance, how much bias velvet, twenty inches wide, would it
require for bands four inches deep to be placed on a skirt three yards
around? Let the children who are making the bias ruffle on the petticoat
(see suggestions under garment bias^ decide how much it would take for
this little skirt, compare straight with bias ruffles, and also let them cut
paper on the bias to represent the amount of material. They should see


BIAS RUFFLE
59
the difference it makes if the triangles at either end cut from the straight
material are utilized. The classes can utilize the ruffle for trimming dolls'
clothing or for larger garments. Practice is not necessary unless the pupils
axe very inexperienced.
Nos. 20, 21 and 22. SEAMS.
Use.—A means of fastening together two or more pieces of material
Varieties.—Single and double seams. For the former the following
stitches are used, the running; stitching; backstitching and varieties of
these; overhanding, and fine-drawing. For the latter, felling, French-seam,
overhand and fell and counter-hemming. Double sewing is used in seams
where greater strength or beauty is required than the single stitch can give.
In dressmaking and tailoring there are many special names used such as
lapped, welt, strapped and slot seams; these are, however, but varieties
of those mentioned above.
Practice.—For the first practice it is sometimes better to use material
on the straight of the goods and colored thread, as the work is easier on
the straight and the imperfections will show clearly. Seams in such gar-
ments as chemises, petticoats, nightgowns and drawers are, however, usually
on the bias or a straight piece is united to a bias. It is well for inexperi-
enced pupils to practice on a piece of cloth before applying on a garment,
but the moment they can do fair work they should begin on a real garment,
small or full size. (See Application of Stitches No. 23.) In many schools
fche first practice is given on coarse, unbleached muslin, but it is so much
more difficult to work on than on a good quality of white muslin that it is
unnecessarily discouraging to the pupils.
Suggestion.—Garments in which various single and double seams are
used should be brought to the class and their form and adaptability dis-
cussed. The teacher can use her judgment in discussing or practicing the
various forms of seams used in dressmaking and tailoring.
FELLING.
MATERIALS FOE PRACTICE.
White Muslin, Cotton, No. 80-100. Needle, No. 10-11.
4x3 Inches.
Application.—Pillowcases and underclothing.
Use.—To join two straight or two bias pieces of material, so that the
raw edges will be completely hidden, and a strong seam will result. It is
used for seams in underclothing, pillowcases and laundry bags.
Fitness.—Double sewing makes it strong; the turned-in edges keep it
from fraying, and the effect is neat and pleasing.
Rule.—This seam is to be twice sewed and may be made on straight
or bias material. Baste together the edges of the cloth, having placed one a


GO
A SEWING COURSE
short distance below the other (about % of an inch in white muslin). The upper edge will later be hemmed down over the short
edge. (Fig. 17.) Running and backstitching No. 2
or fine running may be used for the first sewing of
the seam, as its wrong side is attractive. The first
sewing of a fell may be also stitching or overhanding.
The difficulty with stitching is the need to do the work
on the wrong side of the seam so that when com-
pleted the right side of the stitching stitch may show.
(For overhand and fell see below.)
Make the seam as narrow as possible for strength.
When the first seam is completed, take out the basting
stitches, open the seam flat, and turn the wide edge
of the material over the narrow. Hem the wide edge
carefully down, turning in the raw edge with the
needle as the work proceeds. (Fig. 17.) The fell
seam should be narrow and even, and lie perfectly
flat on both sides of the material. A bias fell is often
required in underclothing. It is made in the same
Fig. 17. The Fell. Wfly as straight. Care, however, should be taken to begin the sewing at the wide end of the material
on account of the fraying.
Practice.—First on two straight pieces and then on a bias seam. Take
white muslin, 4x3 inches, divide it into two gores, as described in the practice
piece for the garment bias. Lay one bias piece against the other, having wide
ends to wide ends and narrow to narrow. Proceed as by rule, using the run-
ning and backstitching No. 2 for the seam. Let the hemming-stitch, used for
felling down the wider edge show distinctly through the material, so that
it may be strong.
FRENCH SEAM.
MATERIALS FOR PRACTICE.
White Muslin, Cotton, No. 80-100. Needle, No. 10-11.
4x3 Inches.
Use.—For seams in lace, embroidery, wash goods that are not lined and
for underclothing. It is used for underwaists and underclothing in prefer-
ence to the fell, as it is more satisfactory in curved seams.
Fitness.—It makes a neat appearance, as it shows but one line of sewing
on the right side; it launders well, and for thin wash material has a better
effect than the raw edges showing through the material.
Rule.—The seam is to be twice sewed. It may be made on straight or
bias material. Lay the two edges to be united exactly together on what will
be the right side of the garment, and baste neatly near the edge. Use a fine
running stitch for the first sewing and make the seam as narrow as possible


FRENCH SEAM
61

for strength. Trim the edges neat-
ly, and lay the seam open with the
finger nail. Turn the seam inside
of the muslin, and make a new
seam over the other on what will Fig. 18.—The French Seam. be the wrong side of the garment.
Various stitches may be used for
the second sewing according to the strength desired. The second sewing must
cover the raw edges of the first seam. (Fig. 18.) The seam should be as
narrow and neat as possible. *
Practice.—Take white muslin 4x3 inches. Cut it into two gores as de-
scribed in the practice piece for garment bias. Lay one bias piece against
the other, having wide end to wide end, and narrow to narrow. Proceed as
by rule. Begin the running stitch on the wide ends of the bias pieces. Let
the second sewing of the seam be done with running and backstitching No. 1.
OVERHAND AND FELL AND OTHER SEAMS.
MATERIALS FOR PRACTICE.
White Muslin, Cotton, No. 80-100. Needle, No. 10-11.
4x3 Inches.
Application.—Undergarments, ball covers and sails.
Use.—In seams where great strength and neatness are required.
Fitness.—The overhand stitch for the first sewing followed by the hem-
ming stitch in the fell makes a very durable seam.
Rule.—Take the two pieces to be joined, turn a small fold on the raw
edge of each piece—the turn on one piece should be twice as deep as the
one on the other. Overhand the two pieces together, having the narrow fold
toward the worker. Overhand the seams according to the rule for overhand-
ing, press open the seam, turn the wide edge over the narrow and hem it down.
The seam should be flat.
Practice.—See gusset or as in fell and French seam.
Fine drawing (see description) is used to hold two selvages or two pieces
of heavy cloth in a seam. It is the stitch used in sewing together the seams
in the leather or felt coverings of balls.
Counter-hemming is used in seams where the materials are made to over-
lap a little and are then hemmed on both sides. Sails for toy boats can be
made of wide cotton or linen tape counter-hemmed together; when made thus
they look much more like real sails than when the forms of mainsail and jib
are merely cut from muslin and hemmed around the edge. If boys are in
the classes, they can readily whittle boats and use the sails on them. The
children should first carefully baste the strips together before counter-hem-
ming them. The raw edges above and below must also be turned in and
hemmed when the sail has been sewed together. Talks on boats and sails,
and illustrations of sail-cloth, sail-needles and thimbles all add greatly to the
interest.


62
A SEWING COURSE
No. 23. APPLICATION OF STITCHES.
The following suggestions for applying the stitches are given to help
teachers to plan courses of work. Real articles and garments are mentioned
in the hope that these will be used in place of models of stitches. These vari-
ous things can be made by the children while they are learning the stitches
and with the minimum of practice. It is more important that they learn
to be constructive along useful lines, with a few stitches, than that they
should continue to learn new stitches only. It is not necessary for the teacher
to make every one of these articles, but she should make some of them and
place them in an interleaved copy of the Sewing Course. They will thus be
an incentive to the pupils. Each teacher, however, should herself make
any article or garment which she plans to give her pupils. The current
magazines dealing with home problems will also help her in choosing her
course of instruction, for they give description of the way to construct many
useful as well as fancy articles. As the manner of making and the decoration
changes continually, according to prevailing fashion, only a few articles
which are not apt to be thus affected are described in detail in the following
pages. Patterns of articles and clothing in large and small sizes can easily
be obtained.
BUTTON BAG.
MATERIALS FOR PRACTICE.
Gingham or other Cotton Material. Cotton, No. 60-80. Needle, 9-10.
12x4 Inches.
Take a piece of material 12x4 inches. Fold it together with the wrong
side out so that the two ends exactly meet. Stitch a narrow seam along each
side beginning at the bottom of the bag and continuing until within 2% inches of the top. Overcast raw edges of the seams. The rest of the way to
the top of the bag hem the four sides separately in narrow hems. Turn the
tops down to the side seams and hem neatly. Run a casing in *4 of an inch
above the hem. Put a narrow linen tape through the casing, beginning at
the hemmed edges on one side. Draw the ends of the tape out on one side
and fasten together by turning in the raw edges, lapping the ends one over
the other and overhanding the parts together. Put a second tape in from
the opposite side and complete it as the other. The bag is drawn together
by pulling on the two strings at once. Another way to finish the bag is to
put a series of rings on the inside of the hem and run the tape through these
in place of a casing.
Suggestion.—A lesson on the bag should be supplemented by a discus-
sion of various sorts of bags and their methods of construction. Where bags
are needed for school purposes the children can supply that need. Boys
may make marble bags of galatea, while the girls are making button or work-
bags of other materials. Variations in the way of completing the bags will
add interest.


APPLICATION OF STITCHES
63
APRONS (Small size).
No. 1. With Casing.
No. 2. With Band.
MATERIALS FOR PRACTICE.
Gingham or Muslin (1)
7x8 In. Cotton, No. 60-100. Needle, No. 9-11.
16x1 In.
Gingham or Muslin
Gingham or Muslin (2)
Gingham or Muslin
7x8 In.
6y2xl In.
6x1% IN- (2 pieces.)
A very simple apron can be made by taking gingham or muslin 7x8
inches. A narrow hem can be made on each side along the 7-inch side of
the material. An inch hem can be turned up at the bottom. In place of
putting on a band a V2 mcn nem can be turned down at the top to form a
casing. A tape (16 inches long) can be used or a strip of the same material
can have a narrow hem on each long side and a Vi inch hem across each end
and be slipped through the casing to draw the fullness together around the
waist. Hemming alone is required in this practice piece.
If an apron on a band is desired a piece of gingham 7x8 inches can
be hemmed on each 7-inch side and at the bottom as above. The top can be
gathered and stroked (see Gathering and Stroking) and the band put on by
stitching or setting-in gathers (see Putting on a Band). The apron may be
drawn in to four inches at the top. The belt will thus extend one inch beyond
the apron on each side and these sides of the belt can be overhanded together to
the ends. Two strips, 6x1*4 inches, can be finished for strings by placing
narrow hems along each side and a deeper hem at the bottom. These strings
can be gathered at the unhemmed ends and joined to the end of the belt by
stitching, or setting-in gathers.
Other kinds of aprons with bibs, straps and pockets should be discussed
by the classes. Aprons are frequently indicative of certain tasks, viz., nurses,
waitresses, butchers, cooks and blacksmiths. This subject may be made inter-
esting to a class.
If a full sized apron extending well to the back is to be made, some of the
material must be cut away from the center of the front before the gathering
thread is put in, or it will bulge just below the band. About one inch in
the center of the front may be sloped to nothing at each side.
The following articles also are described in the Sewing Course:
Petticoats (small size). See No. 19.
Travelling Case. See No. 43,
Trunk Tray-cover. See No. 43.
Hemstitched Handkerchiefs (small size). See No. 46.
Apron op Fine Muslin. See No. 48.
Additional suggestions of articles applying useful stitches:
Sheets (all hemming); pillow-cases (overhanding or the fell, overcast-
ing, hemming); table linen (napery stitch, and marking by (1) linen em-
broidery, (2) cross stitch or (3) chain stitch); bags (hemming, overhanding,
overcasting, fancy stitches, binding with braid and buttonhole stitch or eyelet);
work-bag with divisions; shoe bag; school bag; laundry bag; clothes-pin bag;


64
A SEWING COURSE
clothes bag; and collar and cuff bag with stiff bottom. There are an endless
number of things which may apply the plain stitches, the fancy stitches or
the constructive principles. These can be chosen according to the needs
of the classes. The following useful exercises are all being used in the
schools: Fittings for the work-basket or work-bag, such as needlecases,
emery holders, scissor shields, thimble cases and pin-cushions; furnishing for
doll's houses, such as muslin curtains, portieres, cushion, couch, bureau, and
stand covers; cases, such as travelling, pin, toilet, jewelry, handkerchief and
card cases; articles for the school, such as class and national flags, badges, cos-
tumes for dramatic work, curtains for book-cases, bags for gymnasium shoes,
towels, aprons, caps and sleeves for cooking; work aprons for woodwork,
historic dress in large or small size; articles for the home, such as the pads for
bureau drawers, pin-cushions, whiskbroom holders, waste basket of paste-
board and denim, bureau scarfs and sofa pillows; the use of decorative stitches
in book-covers, portfolios, corners of writing pads, note-books for sewing, hem-
stitched, embroidered or marked towels, napkins, doilies, table runners and
squares, collars and cuffs, trimmings for cotton or woolen gowns and for
linen shirtwaists, lingerie hats, neckties and belts; underclothing, simple
or elaborate, such as the single piece underwaist or nightgown; children's
clothing, such as sunbonnet, caps, guimpes, or simple one-piece aprons or
dresses.
Underclothing and outer clothing for dolls offer excellent work in the
fifth or even the sixth grade. Through the numerous articles which can be
made, all the stitches already learned can be utilized and new principles such as plackets, putting on bands, sewing on tape, tucking, fancy stitches and
embroidery can be added. If bought patterns are used at first they should
soon give way to patterns made by the children. (See Drafting.)


APPLICATION OF STITCHES
APPLICATIONOFSTITCHES.
Space for the description of any special article planned by the teacher.


I


BUTTONHOLES, EYELETS, ETC.
67
Nos. 24, 25, 26, 27 and 28. BUTTONHOLES, EYELETS,
LOOPS, SEWING ON BUTTONS, and
BLANKET STITCH.
MATERIALS FOR PRACTICE.
White Muslin, White Cotton, No. 60. Needle, No. 9.
4x4 Inches (two pieces).
Small pearl button.
Application.—On aprons, bags, cases, doll's clothes and full sized gar-
ments.
Use.—To fasten together parts of clothing or to give a strong edge to
material
Fitness.—The character of the buttonhole stitch is such that both dura-
bility and beauty may be secured in the buttonhole.
Rule.—Buttonholes are worked on the right side of double material.
The work may be done from right to left, or from left to right, the only
difference is the manner of making the purl (the twist given to the thread
about the needle). The thread must be turned about the needle in the direc-
tion in which the work is advancing. (Fig. 19.) The slits are cut at inter-
vals about a quarter of an inch from the edge of the cloth; for flat buttons
they should be cut the length of the diameter of the button, for round but-
tons, somewhat longer, and always even to the thread. Begin work at the
lower end of the slit (farthest from the edge of the cloth). Hold the button-
hole slanting across the first finger of the left hand, with the edge of the
cloth toward the outside of the hand. Make two or more stitches across the
lower end, if a bar of buttonhole stitches is to complete the buttonhole; this
crossbar is to keep the sides of the buttonhole from stretching.
The following description is from right to left, and is a usual method
of making buttonholes in cotton material: First strand the buttonhole by
taking one or more long stitches to the extreme end of the slit and back again
on the opposite side; the buttonhole stitches will cover these, and will be
strengthened by them. As double material is used for buttonholes, the two
raw edges should be lightly overcast together, over the stranding; this over-
casting must not be deep, or it will show. After finishing the overcasting
on both sides, bring the needle to the right side close to the edge of the slit
at the end of the buttonhole furthest from the edge of the cloth. Take the

■ ■•■■■MBkBM
Fig. 19.—Buttonhole Stitch. Fig. 20.—Buttonhole.


A SEWING COURSE
first buttonhole stitch by putting the needle into the slit close to the end and
bring it out far enough from the edge of the slit to avoid danger from ravel-
ing. In muslin four to six threads above the edge will be sufficient. Before
pulling the thread through, put the thread from the eye around from right
to left under the point of the needle (Fig. 19) (if it be brought from left to
right it will make the blanket stitch, which does not make a strong finish needed
in buttonholes). The needle is drawn away from the worker so that the
purl comes on the edge of the slit. Make the stitches upright, of the same
depth, and about one thread of material between each stitch, to allow room
for the purl. When the opposite end of the slit is reached, turn to the other
edge by making a fan of stitches. (Fig. 20.) Let the purl be close together
across the cut, to make it strong, as the shank of the button will rest there.
The outer part of the stitches will be stretched into a fan. The round end
of the buttonholes takes usually from seven to nine stitches. It is some-
times made without the purl and consists of a close overhand stitch like
eyelet No. 3. When the lower end of the buttonhole has been reached, the
fan can be made around this end, or if this end is to be barred, put the
needle into the purl on the opposite side, and draw the two sides of the slit
together; take two or three stitches if it needs to be very strong; bring the
needle out beyond the slit on a line with the depth of stitches just completed
and make a close bar of buttonhole stitches across. (Fig. 20.) The ends of
the bar should be on a line with the outside of the buttonhole stitches. Some
needlewomen make the bar of the blanket stitches; it is not quite so strong
made in this manner. The stitch in the bar that comes over the first stitch
made in the buttonhole must pass through its loop, so as to hold it from slip-
ping; fasten all securely.
Take a long enough thread to complete the buttonhole stitches, as it is
yery difficult to join the thread after the purl has been started; a thread
about % of a yard long is enough for ordinary buttonholes. Coarse thread
may be used for coarse material; but for ordinary muslin No. 60 is coarse
enough. Use as fine a needle as possible. If a thread must be taken in the
midst of the buttonhole put the old thread through the slit and fasten well
on the other side. Insert the new thread through the last purl and continue
as before. Buttonholes in cotton material may be rounded at both ends,
barred at both ends, or the end where the shank of the button will come may
be rounded and the other end barred.
When making buttonholes on wool material the method is not essen-
tially different, though in rounding the ends more stitches are often taken
in the fan. As each stitch is made, it may be pulled up tightly that great
strength may be gained. D. silk is generally used. If the material is thick
or if it frays easily, it is well to put a doubleline of little running or machine
stitches where the buttonhole is to be and cut the slit between these stitches.
Glue is also used to keep the material in place before cutting. Little plates
can be purchased with the form of the buttonhole cut in them; by putting
the glue through such a hole there is no danger of it spreading too far and
injuring the fabric. In heavy cloth a wedge-shaped piece is usually cut in
the end of the slit where the shank of the button will come, or an eyelet hole
is pierced instead. (Fig. 21.) It is also cutomary in heavy material to
work the buttonhole stitch over a cord as the stranding of the buttonhole
twist is not sufficiently strong. When completing the buttonhole in wool
material it is well to take several stitches across the end and make the button-
hole stitch over them to insure strength.


BUTTONHOLES, EYELETS, ETC
The cutting of the buttonholes is always extremely important as the
final appearance is greatly dependent on it. Buttonhole scissors, set to the
right length, aid in obtaining regularity, but much depends on the worker,
who must always cut the material to a thread, begin each cut at the same
distance from the edge of the cloth, usually about *4 of an inch, and have the
slits the same distance apart. Every point must be carefully measured and
indicated before cutting. Haphazard work is almost always fatal to success.
Practice.—The practice piece contains buttonholes, eyelets, loops, sewing on a button, and the blanket stitch. Take two pieces of muslin 4x4 inches.
Turn in all the edges neatly, and baste the two pieces carefully together; be
sure to have warp to warp, and woof to woof in the two pieces of muslin.
Have a small pearl button, and cut a slit in one corner of the practice piece the
size for it and as near the edge as a buttonhole would come. Make the button-
hole according to directions and round both ends. Diagonally cut another
slit the same size, and make this buttonhole round on one end and barred on
the other. In another corner put three eyelet holes, run them toward the
center of the cloth, and graduate the size, that the center one may be the
smallest, (fig. 21.) In the fourth corner make three small loops, gradu-
ating their size to balance the eyelets. In the middle of one side make a
large loop, and sew the button in the middle of the cloth. The practice
piece can be finished around the edge by the blanket stitch. The directions
for eyelets loops, sewing on buttons, and the blanket stitch will be found
below.
Suggestion.—Good buttonholes require fine work. They take much pa-
tience to learn. The work is not adapted to the lower grades of the school.
Practice in the form of the stitch and also in the making of the entire button-
hole may be given on canvas if it is found to be an aid. Besides the actual
making of a successful buttonhole, the classes should have practice in spacing
and cutting buttonholes in various materials. It is also well for them to have
practice in making buttonholes in cashmere or other light wool goods. Let
the piece for such practice be prepared with a lining as would be the case
in a regular waist. Paper may be utilized for spacing and cutting button-
holes where woven material cannot be provided. The practice piece given
above is for teachers. It is too elaborate for most pupils even in the High
School. They should only practice buttonholes when they wish to use one
for the necessity of direct use is a great incentive in overcoming the difficul-
ties. It is better also for them to practice the many varieties on separate
pieces of cloth.
EYELETS.
Application.—A bag with eyelets to pass tape through and draw the
opening together.
Use.—A hole pierced in material and made strong by stitches around
the edge of it, through which a tape or lacing-cord may pass.
Rule.—Pierce the material with a stiletto until the hole will allow the
lacing-cord to pass through easily. If a large hole is needed some of the
pushed-back material on the wrong side must be cut away. For added
strength the holes may be outlined with running stitches. The work over


n
A SEWING COURSE

the edge may be done in different ways. The buttonhole or the blanket
stitch may either be used, or the hole may be worked over and over with a
close overhand stitch.
The buttonhole stitch with the purl turned toward
the hole makes the strongest eyelet. (Fig. 21, Eyelet
No. 2.) The upright stitches must be evenly spread
apart as the purl is crowded into a smaller space. The
^ffifct jtffeneedle is inserted first into the hole, and then into the material and the purl is drawn to the edge of the hole.
2 aThe blanket stitch is sometimes used for the buttonhole stitch in this eyelet.
The close overhand is also strong. It is the method
usually adopted where a silk lacing is to be used. (Fig.
Fig. 21.—Eyelets 21, Eyelet No. 3.) The work is done very close together,
Nos. 1, 2 and 3. and the stitches are drawn tightly.
Buttonhole. The buttonhole stitch with the purl turned away
from the hole makes the most attractive looking eyelet. (Fig. 21, Eyelet No.
1.) The needle is inserted first into the material and then brought through
the hole to the surface and the purl is drawn into place beyond the hole.
The work proceeds from right to left as in buttonholes. The upright stitches
must lie close together to cover the raw edges and make the eyelet wear well.
The work is fastened on the wrong side by a couple of double stitches.
The depth of the stitch in all eyelets depends on the material on which
it is made. The object is to protect the hole; the stitch must therefore be
close and deep enough to accomplish this. The stiletto can be of use during
the progress of the work to keep the hole round.
Practice.—Three varieties of eyelets are to be worked on the buttonhole
practice piece.
No. 1.—Buttonhole stitch with the purl turned outward.
No. 2.—Buttonhole stitch with the purl turned inward.
No. 3.—A close over-and-over stitch. (See Practice—Buttonholes.)
LOOPS.
Application.—On a doll's dress or garment in place of a buttonhole or as
a hanger for a bag the stitch being made over a brass ring.
Use.—Where a metal eye would not be attractive in certain garments,
a silk loop is made to catch the hook. Loops are also used to take the place
of buttonholes to stay the end of a placket, or to hold two folds of cloth
together.
Rule.—Determine the size of the loop necessary for the hook or button
and the place it should occupy. Fasten the thread securely without a knot if
possible, take three or four strands of stitches back and forth on the gar-
ment, leaving them loose enough to catch the hook or button. Fasten securely
at the opposite end that they may bear the strain to be put upon them. Make
the buttonhole stitch or the blanket stitch over the strands. (See Blanket
Stitch.)
Practice.—(See Practice—Buttonholes.)


SEWING ON BUTTONS
71
SEWING ONBUTTONSApplication.—On aprons, garments and travelling cases.
Rule.—Buttons with four holes may have the stitches form a cross on
the face and two diagonals at the back, or may have two parallel stitches on
the face and a cross at the back. The cross stitches should be in the direc-
tion of the warp and woof. Use double cotton and fasten it securely in the
right side of the material directly under where the button will go. It is well
to put a pin on top of a flat button or under one which is concave and to
make the stitches over the pin so that the button will not be fastened down
too tight. When sufficient stitches have been taken withdraw the pin and
pass the cotton several times around the stitches beneath the button to form
a stem or shank. This protects the stitches and makes room for the button-
hole or loop. When the button is sewed down tight, it is apt to pull off,
bringing a piece of the band with it. Fasten off directly under the button
or on the wrong side in one of the diagonal stitches. The wrong side should
be very neat.
Buttons with two holes have the stitches running the warp way of the
material. Buttons with a shank should have the stitches over and over the
shank in such a way that the rubbing of the buttonhole will be against the
shank rather than against the stitches. Cloth buttons often are made with
material on the wrong sides in place of a shank; these are sewed on in the
same way, but looser than a shank button, so a stem can be formed by wind-
ing the thread around the stitches.
Practice.—A four-holed button is to be placed in the middle of the but-
tonhole practice piece. (See Practice—Buttonholes.)
Suggestion.—The sewing on of buttons may be taught to young chil-
dren. Let them practice with four-holed buttons, shoe-buttons and cloth but-
tons. With older classes, practice on spacing and cutting buttonholes may
be accomplished by sewing on buttons to correspond. In light-weight ma-
terials a staytape will often be needed between the lining and the cloth to
hold securely the buttons.
BLANKET STITCH OR FLAT BUTTONHOLE
STITCH.
Application.—Canvas napkin rings, mats and cases, the bottom of flan-
nel skirts and jackets and in embroidery on linen.
Use.—For finishing raw edges in place of overcasting. It is also used
ornamentally as in scallops on flannel or by a network of stitches over a
surface. A neat way of joining the edges of Hamburg trimming is to button-
hole or blanket stitch the edges together very closely.


n
A SEWING COURSE
Fitness.—It holds an edge from raveling and at the same time deco-
rates it. When worked close together it is very strong and durable as well
as beautiful.

Pig. 22.—Blanket Stitch. Fig. 23.—Scallops.
Rule.—It is worked from right to left or left to right, the latter being
the more usual way. The work is held over the first finger of the left hand
with the raw edge toward the worker. The upright part of the stitch is at
right angles with the raw edge (Fig. 22); the loop goes over the edge. The
needle is inserted as far from the raw edge as the depth of the stitch chosen.
To fasten the thread in cloth or flannel (in canvas a knot has to be used);
make a running stitch toward the edge, insert the needle again at the same
place as before and take one stitch toward the edge, slip the thread under
the needle and make a loop. Insert the needle at the same height as the last
stitch and as far to the right (or left) as desired, making a loop in the thread.
Continue the stitches the same height and the same distance apart. In a cor-
ner three stitches should come in the same hole to make a neat turn. When
a new thread is to be taken, fasten off the old thread back of the last upright
stitch. Begin the new thread by a running stitch back of the last stitch, catch
the new thread through the loop and proceed as before.
Varieties of the Stitch.—The depths of the upright stitches may be
varied at regular intervals and make a most attractive effect. An ornamental
network also can be made by catching succeeding rows of the stitch in the
previous row. In using the blanket stitch for scallops in embroidery (Fig.
23), the upright part of each stitch lies close to the next. It must be crowd-
ed on the inner edge of the scallop to have the outer edge firm and substantial.
When the point of union between two scallops is reached, the last blanket
stitch can come directly at the point of junction, or each succeeding scallop
can begin again at that point and give an overlapping appearance. The last
is the richer effect. In flannel garments scalloped at the edge, the material
below the scallop is to be cut away. It is better not to cut too close until
the flannel has been once washed.
Practice.—(See Practice—Buttonholes, Embroidery on Flannel or unite
two pieices of Hamburg edging.)
Suggestion.—The blanket stitch is very useful in early primary grades.
It may be used to finish the edges of burlap mats, leaves for needlebooks, book-
marks, blankets, bookcovers and napkin rings. Variation in the length of
the stitches may also be suggested by the children. In raffia work this stitch
may be used in picture frames, or to hold together the bundles of raffia, for
making hats, mats and baskets.


PLACKET8
73
Nos. 29, 30, 31. PLACKETS.
Use.—The opening made in certain parts of garments which gives
greater freedom in slipping them on. Skirts and petticoats, shirt sleeves,
drawers and chemises, have these openings.
Fitness.—The piece of material set on or folded over strengthens the
garment where it has to bear a strain and is liable to be torn and the in-
creased size of the opening gives comfort.
In full-sized garments the length of the placket depends on its use. The
object should be merely to have the parts slip on easily and to avoid unnec-
essary length.
PLACKET No. 1. MATERIALS FOB PRACTICE.
Gingham or White Muslin, Cotton, No. 80-100. Needle, No. 9-11.
4x4 Inches.
Application.—On a petticoat either full or small size.
Use.—For finishing the vent in certain skirts or for the opening in the
back of men's shirts.
Practice.—Cut a slit 2y2 inches down the middle, or one-half inch to the
left of the middle, of the warp of a piece of gingham or muslin 4x4 inches.
Put a narrow hem down the left-hand side of the slit, sloping it to nothing at
the end. On the right-hand side of the slit make a hem which will be half an
inch wide its entire length. When the end of the cut is reached, fold the
whole width of the right-hand side over the left-hand side. This will make
a pleat in the muslin below the end of the vent (some prefer the left side
folded over the right). Securely fasten down the broad hem over the narrow
by a line of stitching stitches at right angles with the hemming-stitches and
over the end of the slit. Make another line of stitching stitches which will
slant from the end of the fold of the hem, where the other stitching stitches
ended, to the hemming stitches and will form the hypothenuse of the angle
made by the junction of the hemming stitches with the first line of stitching
stitches. This will make a more secure finish than double parallel lines of
stitching stitches.
Suggestion.—In full-sized garments the broad hem in this placket varies
from 1 inch to 1% inches in width. The length varies from 5 inches to 10
inches, according to the requirements of the garment.
Garments containing plackets of this character should be brought to the
class for illustration. It is well also for the classes to make small white petti-
coats, gingham dress skirts or flannel skirts which will apply this principle.
This first placket is so simple that application on a small garment does not
need to be preceded by making the practice piece. Making the placket in
paper, where the subject is discussed freely, is sufficient preparation for its
utilization on the small garment. A placket is more satisfactory in the back
of a petticoat than a gusset, on account of the lapping over of the material
in the former.


PLACKETS
75
Where gingham is used the upper facing must be cut according to the
pattern; it must exactly match the main part of the cloth over which it
extends.
A small sleeve may be made by each child and the placket put in that,
or a small shirtwaist may be made at this time.
The front of a shirtwaist is frequently made with a box pleat 1V4 to 1% inches wide. This pleat is usually stitched on each edge. The buttonholes
can be made in it or an extra lap may be made underneath for them. If the
material is not wide enough to make the pleat, an extra piece may be added
which will fold under the pleat and not show. The other side of the shirt-
waist which goes under the box pleat may be turned into a 1-inch hem, or
if too narrow for that, a supplementary piece may be added, turned back
and stitched down either on the right or wrong side of the cloth as desired.
PLACKET No. 3.
MATERIALS FOR PRACTICE.
White Muslin, Cotton, No. 80-100. Needle, No. 9-11.
4x4 Inches.
Finish, No. 1. 5x1 inch on a strip of muslin with one side selvage.
Finish, No. . 2. 5x2 Inches.
Application.—On the vent of a pair of drawers, a doll's skirt, or a child's
dress.
Use.—Especially adapted to children's drawers on account of its strength
and the complete closing of the vent by the lap underneath, formed by the
turned back strip. It is also used in white petticoats and in cotton dress
skirts.
Practice.—Cut 2y2 inches in the middle of a piece of muslin 4x4 inches.
The vent may be finished in one of the following ways: Finish No. 1. Take
the strip, 5x1 inch, put a narrow hem one-half way down it or use the selvage
piece. Lay the opposite raw edge of the strip on the left-hand side of the
vent with the right side of the strip lying against the right side of the cloth.
Baste it so that the edge of the strip will be just below the raw edge of the
vent (as for a fell). Begin at the ends of the slit and make a narrow fell
with the cloth hemmed down on the strip. This disposes of but one-half of
the strip. Begin at the edge of the vent and with the running and back-
stitching sew the remainder of the raw edge of the strip to the opposite side
of the vent in order that when the seam is pressed open this part of the strip
will make a lining to the right-hand side of the vent. This will turn the
strip back on itself. Hem the lining down by turning in the raw edges or
hemming down the selvage strip. Where the strip turns back at the bottom
of the placket it must be hemmed or stitched neatly and closely to the cloth.
When the placket is completed the faced part of it on the right-hand side lies
above the lap made by the first half of the strip. Where the strip turns back
there is always a small fold in the cloth made by the fell, a loop made of
buttonhole stitches can be placed at this point and add materially to the
strength.
*


76
A SEWING COURSE
'*'! Finish, No. 2.—Take the strip 5x2 inches, lay one raw edge of it on
the right side of the material or garment along the entire vent and baste it
neatly, being careful to hold it well at the bottom of the slit before continuing
up the other side. Sew it with one of the strong stitches, such as the stitching-
stitch, and then turn the opposite raw edges of the strip just over the seam
and hem it down the entire length. When finished, the strip will fold back
on itself, as in finish, No. 1, but it does not need to be hemmed down to form
a lining as in that method. Arrange the placket so it will look neat on the
right side and make a loop of buttonhole stitches across the end of it to
strengthen it. To keep the strip well in place make on the wrong side of
the placket a slanting line of stitching-stitches which will hold the strip
together without interfering with the size of the opening.
Suggestion.—In full-sized garments this placket varies in length and
width according to need. In cotton dress skirts the strip is often made of
double material. In childrens drawers a broad piece of tape more than twice
the length of the vent is sometimes used to stay the material by extending it
down one side of the vent across the bottom by turning it twice back on itself
and up on the other side. Neither this means nor the gusset have the advan-
tage of completely closing the opening.


GDSSET
77
No. 32. GUSSET.
MATERIALS FOB PRACTICE.
Cotton, No. 80-100. Needle, No. 10-11.
Muslin,
4x4 Inches.
Diagonal of a 2y2 Inch Square.
Application.—In place of the placket in a skirt, at the end of seams and
under the arms. It is not in frequent use.
Use.—A gusset is a small piece of material (usually triangular) put in
the openings of sleeves, shirts and drawers, to increase the width and to
strengthen the garment.
Fitness.—The upper part of the triangle overhanded into the seam or
into the cut on the right side of the garment, and the lower part of it, which
turns back as a lining on the wrong side and acts as a stay, give great dura-
bility to the seam.

Fig. 25. Fig. 27.
Folding of the Gusset.
Rule.—To fold a trianglar gusset, take a triangular piece of muslin and
(1) turn a narrow fold on all three sides of it (the two sides first and then
the base). (2) Make a crease exactly through the triangle from the apex to
the base.( Fig. 25.) (3) Turn the apex down to about V8 of an inch at the
base. (Fig. 26.) The new triangle thus formed is the gusset proper, while
the remainder will serve for the lining or stay. (4) Turn each point of the

base into another equilateral triangle, which will make the piece hexagonal
in shape. Cut off the unnecessary material in this new turn so it will leave


78
A SEWING COURSE
only a small fold. (Figs. 27 and 28.) (5) Place the apex of the triangle
(with the folds turned to the wrong side of the garment) at the end of the
seam or of the cut needing strengthening. Overhand it on both sides from
the apex to the crease made when it was folded into the second triangle.
(Fig. 28.) (6) After the triangle is overhanded, turn the remaining part of
the gusset to the wrong side of the garment, baste it carefully, placing the
lengthwise crease at the center of the seam or the cut, and laying the side folds
of the gusset so they will extend along warp and woof threads. The lining
must lie perfectly flat. Hem it down carefully. (Fig. 29.) (7) Put a line
of stitching on the right side of the garment across the bottom of the gusset
where it folds back. This will keep it flat and improve the appearance.
Practice.—Take a piece of muslin 4x4 inches. Cut it in half down the
warp threads, join the two pieces together iy2 inches in an overhanded fell.
(See Overhanded Fell.) Turn narrow hems on the raw edges of the practice
piece below the fell. The end of the fell will need to be cut across so the hems
will lie quite flat. For the gusset, take the diagonal of a 2y2-inch square of
muslin. Fold and insert according to the rule.
Suggestion.—There are other varieties of gussets besides the triangular
one. A square of muslin is sometimes used with a small diagonal cut from
one corner. It is inserted in the same way as the triangular gusset. A square
{tiece is also used by turning it diagonally and inserting it in the seams under
he arms of night dresses, chemises and shirts, to give more room. A gusset
may also be cut with the sides extended into a facing. This variety is some-
times used in children's drawers. The gusset gives room and the facing ex-
tends up each side of the opening and acts as a stay.
The gusset is less used than formerly. Plackets are found to serve the
purpose better, as they keep the openings closed while strengthening the
material, and in drawers and skirts, are more satisfactory.
A gusset is not difficult to insert if all the steps are understood and if
the folding is carefully done. Blackboard diagrams are a help in making the
steps clear. Garments with gussets inserted should be shown to the classes.
It is not necessary to teach the gusset in the course in the elementary
school. Teachers, technical students and trade workers should know how to
make it.


SEWING ON TAPE 71
No. 33. SEWING ON TAPE
MATERIALS FOB PRACTICE.
Muslin, 3x2^2 Inches. Cotton, No. 70. Needle, No. 9.
Tape Inch wide,)
5 Inches. 3 Inches.
Application.—On towels, dusters and skirts.
Use.—To fasten tape securely so it may serve for strings for under-
clothing, aprons and other garments, or for loops to hang up clothing and
household articles. It is also used to strengthen the edges of material. (See
Placket No. 3.)
Rule.—The free ends of the tape intended for strings must always be
finished neatly or they will fray. They may be folded down and hemmed or
turned into a point and overhanded or hemmed. The end to be fastened
down is usually placed on the wrong side of the garment. If there is a
hem on the article a short distance from the edge, the end of the tape may
be turned in, laid against the hem and hemmed down on three sides. (Fig.
30.) At the edge of the garment it may be overhanded or stitched. In place
of the hemming for holding down the tape the stitching stitch may be used.
It must always be perfect on the right side of the garment. To do this the
tape must be laid flat on the wrong side of the article with its raw edge to-
ward the end. The stitching is done on the right side through the tape. The
tape may then be turned back so it will cover the stitches. The sides may
be hemmed and the edge of the article overhanded or stitched to the tape.
When loops are to be placed on towels or dusters, the center of the piece of
tape is turned diagonally back on itself and forms a point. (Fig. 30.) The
ends of the tape are laid side by side on the wrong
side of the material and hemmed or stitched down
as described above. The edge of the material is
stitched or overhanded to the loop. Where the two
pieces of tape join, they may be hemmed together
or held down with cross stitches.
Practice.—Take a piece of muslin 3x2% inches,
turn and base a ^4-inch hem on one long side.
'A loop and a string of tape are to be sewed to this
hem. Take five inches of tape for a loop and fold
it diagonally in the middle according to the direc-
tion above. (Fig. 30.) Turn in the raw edges
and y2 an inch from one side of the muslin, lay
the ends of the tape side by side with their folds
n T on the hem of the muslin. Hem the muslin across
Fig. 30.—Loop of iape. npatly an(J strongly t^ing careful to hold the tape down with the hemming stitches. Hem each side of the tape to the muslin
and the two pieces of tape together. At the edge of the muslin overhand
the tape to the hem. Take the 3-inch piece of tape for a string. Lay one
end on the wrong side of the hem (y 2 inch from the loop) with its raw edge
toward the end. Stitch it down closely just where the hemming is and make
the stitching perfect on the right side. Turn back the tape so it covers the


A SEWING COURSE
stitches and after hemming each side, stitch the tape to the muslin on the
right side near the edge of the fold. Fold the raw edge of the tape into a
point by turning the width of the tape diagonally into a true bias and this
again into a triangle, and overhand it across the bottom of the triangle and
along the one Bide.
Suggestion.—In dressmaking, the loops or hangers on a skirt are usually
laid flat on the under side of the belt and sewed strongly to the belt near the
side seams, or one loop may be placed in the middle of the back. They are
cut about four or five inches long, which allows for the turning in at each
end. They are hemmed or stitched into place. In waists, hangers are usually
placed in the seams of the sleeves; they may lie flat as in the skirt, but usually
the tape is doubled diagonally and the ends are placed exactly together. They
may be stitched in with the sleeve or strongly overhanded to the seam. For
hangers for coats the flat loop and the diagonal sleeve loop are both used.
Tape is also used to strengthen the sides of an opening by having it ex-
tend up both sides after being folded in the center diagonally as a loop is
made and laid flat below the opening.
In children's work strings of tape may take the place of buttonholes in
dolls' petticoats. Little towels or dusters with loops of tape may be made
to apply various stitches.


TUCKING
81
No. 34. TUCKING
MATERIALS FOB PRACTICE.
Muslin, 6x5 Inches. Cotton, No. 80-100. Needle, No. 9-11.
Application.—On aprons, dolls' clothing or underclothing.
Use.—Folds taken on the right side of material for ornament; or as a
means of disposing of material until it is needed to lengthen the garment; or
to narrow a garment in place of gathers. They are used principally on chil-
dren's clothing, undergarments and cotton dress.
Tucks may vary in depth from 1-16 of an inch to a couple of inches.
The distance between them is a matter of choice. In wide tucks one-third
to one-half of their depth is usually left between them; in very narrow ones
the space between may be the same as the depth. Groups of narrow tucks
are frequently made with the fold of one reaching to the sewing of the one
below. The sewing, however, must not be covered.
Rule.—Decide on the size and distance apart of the tucks and make a
gauge (a card with notches in it) to indicate (1) the depth, (2) the sewing
and (3) the distance apart of the tucks. If there is a hem on the garment
below the tucks, place the end of the gauge on the sewing of the hem, make
the first notch at the distance from the hem to the inner sewing of the tuck
added to the depth of the tuck. Put the second notch at the depth of the
tuck. The third and fourth notches will repeat the distance of the first and
second. These notches will be the indication for two tucks. After that the
tucks can be indicated by folding together the wrong side of the material at
the first tuck below the one to be folded and creasing, making pin-pricks or
pencil marks at the fold of the second tuck below. When the gauge is made,
place the card on the hem (or any point selected beyond which the tuck is to
be made) and, with a strong pin prick through the material at the marks on
the card, moving it gradually across the material. Make a crease from one
pin-prick to the other. The first crease will be the depth of the tuck, the
second the sewing, the third will be the depth of the second tuck, the fourth
the sewing. The tucks are usually sewed on the upper side through the dou-
ble material with the running stitch or by machine. They should be as care-
fully folded to a thread as possible, especially in narrow tucks where a small
variation in the thread is quite noticeable.
Practice.—Take muslin 6x5 inches, place a hem at the bottom which will
be % of an inch deep when finished. It should be folded as exactly as pos-
sible. Three tucks, % of an inch in depth with ys of an inch between are
to be placed above the hem. This will make the inner sewing of the tuck V4
of an inch above the sewing of the hem; the tuck will, when finished, cover
half of this space and the other half will be the space between the tuck and
the hem. If a gauge is needed for these narrow tucks, the first mark would
be % of an inch above the mark for the hem (the distance between the hem
and the inner sewing of the tuck, i. e., % of an inch added to the depth of
the tuck, i. $., y$ of an inch). The second mark would be Ys of an inch above
or the depth of the tuck; the third mark would be % of an inch above the
second mark, and the fourth mark Yr of an inch beyond the third, making in
all one inch from the hem. Prick with a pin at the marks, moving the gauge
across the material. The third tuck can be measured from the others (see


82
A 8EWING COURSE
rule). A tape measure can be used in place of the gauge for these narrow
tucks. Great care must be taken in folding to a thread, if possible. Sew with
the running stitch on the outside of the tuck. When the tucks are finished,
prepare the upper part of the material for putting on a band. (See No. 35.)
Suggestion.—Illustrations of different varieties of tucking should be
brought to the class for discussion. It is also well to provide paper so that
each member of the class may have experience in spacing tucks from some design of her own, and also may learn to notch the card for the gauge.
Garments which are too short or too narrow may be increased by adding
new material and hiding a seam under a tuck. This method of repairing
should be discussed.
Knots are sometimes used in tucks to begin the running stitch, but a
neat fastening is preferable.
Muslin, 2*£x1 Inch. (Utilize practice piece No. 34.)
Application.—On aprons, skirts and other clothing.
Use.—A narrow strip of cloth, folded over to cover the plain or gath-
ered raw edges of material and to bind the garment together; a means of
fastening a garment in place as well as of supporting and strengthening it.
Varieties.—The setting in of gathers or hemming; the stitched-on, and
the overhanded band.
Rule.—As the band needs to be strong it should be cut along the selvage
or the warp of material (the selvage itself would better be cut off as it is
usually too heavy). The width of the band depends on the place for which
it is intended; the length (in cutting) is generally from one to two inches
longer than the place it is to occupy. This allows for turning in at each
end and for the lapping over of the band. The raw edges of the band should
be folded down first from % to V4 of an inch along the length and then the
ends may be turned in. The corners can be mitered (see Mitering) if the
folds of the cloth coming together make it too thick. The band must now be
folded together along its length with all the raw edges inside. The ends may
be basted together or overhanded before the band is placed on the garment,
as it helps to keep it in place. Divide the band in half and again in quarters
and mark with cross stitches. Take now the garment on which the band is
to be placed. Spread the material as desired on the gathers (if there are any)
and stretch and pin the length of the band to it. The garment should be
already marked in halves and quarters, as the band is parked, if the full-
ness is to be evenly distributed along the band. If the front is to be plain
and the fullness gathered into a few inches in the middle of the back a care-
ful calculation of the amount of the material to go into each quarter of the
band must precede the matching of the halves and quarters of the band and
garment.
Setting in op Gathers.—After preparing the band, place the gathers
within it, matching the marked halves and quarters; baste the right side of
the band to the gathers so that the gathering stitches are just covered. Begin
No. 35. PUTTING ON A BAND
MATERIALS FOR PRACTICE.


64
A SEWING COURSE
Suggestion.—The secret in making a band look well is the careful fold-
ing, preparing and basting. Haste in the first steps is apt to give bad results.
Bands are made usually of straight material. Narrow binding to finish
garments is cut on the bias. In gathering material for a band from twice
to twice and a half the length of band is the usual allowance.
A tucked apron or petticoat could be made at this time in place of the
practice piece.


DARNING 85
Nos. 36 and 37. DARNING.
MATERIALS FOR PRACTICE.
Stockinet, 4x4 Inches. Fine Darning Cotton. Needle, No. 7-10 or
Warp Threads op Muslin. Long-Eyed Darner.
Colored Cashmere. Warp Raveling op Cashmere.
4x4 Inches. Silk op the Same Color.
Application.—Stockings, knitted underwear or sweaters brought from
home.
Use.—Darning is the repairing of fabric by inserting new threads into a
place which has been rubbed thin or worn into a hole. It differs from patch-
ing in that the broken part is woven back, while in the latter a piece of the
same cloth is inserted into the hole. Knitted and woven materials are both
usually mended in this way.
Fitness.—As it imitates the original texture it is almost invisible and
the manner of weaving the threads makes it strong.
Varieties.—(1) Running Darn. Thin places in stockinet or in woven
material, and broken places in the latter may be strengthened by running
darns. A number of lines of running stitches are placed close together over
the worn part on the wrong side and the stitch and the space alternate in
succeeding rows. In stockinet, small loops should be left at the end of each
row to allow for stretching or shrinkage, and the edges of the darn should be
waved or diamond-shaped so the strain will be
distributed. (Fig. 32.) The plain running
stitch may be used in stockinet or ascending and
descending loops may be taken with each stitch.
In woven material the shape of the darn may
be square and the loops need not be long. (2) Stocking-web Darning. This manner
of darning reproduces the original knitting of
the garment. It is the method employed in fac-
tories where the machinery has torn the fabric.
It is much used in countries where hand-knitted
garments are used. It is a more difficult pro-
cess than the ordinary way of inserting warp
and woof and unnecessarily tedious where the
darning of ordinary stockings or sweaters is con-
cerned. The method is to clear away loose ends
of the stockinet until the hole is square or ob-
long. Strands of thread are then stretched
pIG 32 Running Darn across the hole from the ascending and descend-
in Stockinet lo°PS ai,d the knitting stitches are built up with darning cotton on these strands. The
strands are carefully removed when the knitting is completed. This method
is difficult and is not taught generally in the schools of the United States.
(3) Warp and Woof Darns. This is a method in general use for re-
pairing both stockinet and woven material. It may be plain weaving or it
may accurately reproduce the pattern, as is often done in fine damask. (See
Weaving.) In stockinet the warp threads may be inserted in the ascending


DARNING
87
must be left in the darning cotton as the thread turns back in both warp and
woof so as to allow for the stretching of the stockinet and the shrinking in
washing. The darn should lie perfectly flat.
Practice.—Take a piece of coarse stockinet, 4x4 inches. Cut a few
threads in the center of the web and the broken ladders can then be stretched
into a hole. Repair according to the rule, catching the loops and making a
diamond-shaped darn. As the material is new the darn does not need to ex-
tend far beyond the hole.
Rule.—Woven material which has been torn may be repaired by weaving
back the broken threads. In fine damask where a small hole has been torn
the entire pattern may be woven back, but in most instances a plain darn is
adequate for the purpose. Where there is a worn place or a slit rather than
a hole a plain running darn will suffice. The repairing thread should repro-
duce the original as nearly as possible. The raveled warp threads of the same
material give the most satisfactory results. Wool may be threaded by waxing
it or by twisting a cotton thread in with it. If wool raveling cannot be obtained,
silk (one shade darker) may be split into thirds and one-third used for the
work. Silk, however, catches the light and shows more than the raveling of
the material. Whatever threads are broken should be replaced as closely as
is needed to hold the material well together. A few rows of stitches are often
enough to hold a slit together in wool materials where the strain is not great,
but in cottons and linens a close mass of replaced threads is necessary to sustain
the strain of laundering. If threads are severed in one direction only, such
as warp threads, those alone need to be replaced. If both warp and woof
threads are broken both must be reinserted. The work is done on the wrong
side of the cloth as far as possible. A running stitch is made back and forth
over the tear, leaving a little loop each time the direction is changed. The
distance beyond the tear covered by the darn depends on the strength needed.
In new material a few stitches on either side of the break are enough. It may
be necessary, however, to strengthen weak threads by carrying the darn some
distance beyond the tear. In some materials, such as damask, when the edge
of the slit is reached the thread should go over on one side and under on
the other, alternating this in succeeding lines (see Fine-Drawing). In cloth
DARNING WOVEN MATERIAL.

Fig. 33.—Darning op a
Hedge Tear.
Fig. 34.—Darning op a Diag-
onal Tear.


M
A SEWING COURSE
it is well to bury the stitches in the material. The work must be carefully
done so that the darn will be flat and the edges will be neatly joined together
and not frayed. The stitch should show little on the right side. In a hedge
tear (two sides of a square) both warp and woof threads must be inserted at
the corner where the two breaks join. This will make a square warp and
woof darn at the corner. (Fig. 33.) In a diagonal tear (Fig. 34), the same
condition usually must be met, i. e., warp and woof threads are to be inserted.
The warp threads are put in first as far beyond the slit as need be, the woof
threads need not be so numerous as the warp, but should be sufficient to keep
the slit from stretching in that direction. At times one line of repairing threads
can be omitted or this class of tear can be darned diagonally across the ma-
terial, but at right angles with the cut. A hole which is too large for ordinary
darning may need repair. It is often better to place a piece of the same
material underneath and darn down the raw edges on it than it is to hem
or overhand a patch on the garment. The piece placed at the back must
exactly match the original. It should be so placed that the right side of it as
well as the warp, woof and ply (if it has any) should match the surface. This
piece may be carefully run on to the body of the garment with an irregular
running-stitch showing as little as possible on the face. Warp raveling of the
material may be used for the darning which is done on the right side, the raw
edges should be overcast. The ragged edges should be cleared from the hole.
The loops must be taken under the surface and the stitches must not extend
across the patch if the darn can be made strong without it. A human hair
can be used for darning with excellent results.
Practice.—Take a piece of colored cashmere, 4x4 inches. Four holes are
to be cut in it. One can be placed in each corner. (1) A slit across the warp
threads. This may be darned on the wrong side with warp ravelings of white
muslin to clearly indicate the stitches. They should show as little as possible
on the right side. A running darn is to be used. It is to be placed back and
forth along the warp as these threads are severed. When the edge of the slit
is reached let the alternating rows of stitches go under and over the edge. (See
Rule for Darning Woven Material.) (2) A diagonal severing of warp and
woof threads is to be repaired. (Fig. 34.) Work on the wrong side of the
material. Replace the warp threads first, then the woof with the alternating
running stitch according to the rule. Use warp ravelings of cashmere. (3) A
hedge tear. Half of this tear is along the woof, the other half is along the
warp. Use warp ravelings of cashmere or split silk one shade darker than the
material. Work on the wrong side of the cashmere. Replace first the warp
threads and then the woof with the alternating running-stitch, making a square
darn at the point where both the warp and woof threads are severed. (Fig.
33). (4) A worn place too large for ordinary darning. Cut a small hole in
the material; place a piece of it at the back and repair according to rule.
Suggestion.—The darning of fine material, whether in stockinet or woven
cloth, requires judgment, patience and control of the hand. It is, however,
possible through lessons in weaving and coarse sweater darning to give a good
preparation for it. In early primary grades the lessons in weaving (see
Weaving) should be connected with ideas of repairing. Knitting also should
be contrasted with weaving as a means of constructing material. A toy used
by children for knitting horse lines will serve to make clear the difference
between the construction of knitted and woven material. It is only a spool
with four pins in one end arranged at equal distances around the hole. If a


DARNING
89
larger spool is used and more pins are added a little form like a golf stocking
can be made easily by the children. The repairing stockinet by a warp
and woof darn may be discussed and by the third school year coarse sweater
material may be darned. Steps such as these make a foundation for the pre-
sentation of the subject in a later grade.
With classes that are not expert in hand work, with younger children,
or with poor varieties of stockinet, a running darn in and out of the material
may be used in place of the more difficult variety where the loops of the knit-
ting are caught wiith each stitch.
It is well for classes to have experience beyond merely practicing darning.
Let them bring from home stockings, knitted underwear or woven garments,
and repair them in the class or let them make small parts of garments such
as sleeves, skirts, waists, drawers, etc., and darn them in various ways. This
will give them experience in the judgment of ways and means of repairing
which cannot be obtained from a practice piece cut from new material.
The schools fail often to make the lessons in darning practical, through omit-
ting the discussion of the problems which are met in the home. The teacher
must have these points considered. Lessons in patching can well be given at
the same time as the two methods of repair are almost inseparable.
Where a large hole is worn in a stocking or in knitted underwear a piece
may be set under and patched down with the herring-bone stitch. (See Flan-
nel Patch.) Care must be taken that each loop of the stockinet is caught or
the ladders will stretch into a hole.
A review of weaving or the presentation of darning to an older class who
know nothing of the principle of it should follow an outline of thought such
as the following. The following is given as a suggestion for organizing dis-
cussion and for developing thought. The standpoint is of a class who have
had a preparation for the subject in early grades. A part of the outline can
accompany each one of a series of lessons or the teacher can set different sub-
jects from it for the class to think over and discuss.
OUTLINE OF WEAVING AND DARNING.
I. WEAVING. II. KNITTING.
Illustrations.—Woven materials of vari- Illustrations.—Stockinet, knitted under-
ous kinds such as canvas, plain wear, sweater material, spool knitting, weaving in muslin and wool, diagonal pictures of knitting machines, black- and pattern material; a loom; pic- board diagrams, etc., tures of looms, illustrations on the (I) Recalling Early Work.
board. Golf stocking knitted on spool, and
(I) Recalling Former Wore. sweater material darned.
1. Kindergarten paper weaving, weav HI. DARNING STOCKINET,
ing rugs and mats on cards and the lLLUSTRATI0NS. _ Stocking-web darning,
loom, darmng on coarse sweater ma- eluMwn'« work from various schools!
stockinet and sweater material and
(II) Topics for Discussion. samples of the darning of them;
1. The loom, warp, woof, shuttle, selv- blackboard illustrations, etc. age, batten, treadles and the inter- (I) Connecting the new Subject with
lacing of threads; setting up a loom; Weaving and Knitting.
ways of distinguishing warp from (II) Stocking-Web-Darning (for pur-
woof without the selvage; the differ- poses of comparison),
ence between basketry and weaving, 1. Use of this manner of darning in
and the difference between plain and knitting-factories,
fancy weaving. 2. Method of repairing discussed.


99
A SEWING COURSE
(III) Warp and Wool- Darn.
1. Investigating the material and the
hole to be repaired.
(1) Ascending and descending loops,
ragged edges of the hole and quality
of repairing thread needed.
2. Method of repairing.
(1) Ways from which to choose.
a. Running darn.
b. Picking up the ascending and de-
scending loops.
c. Diagonal darn.
(2) Steps in the work.
a. Darning thread to be used. b. Position of hand.
e. Inserting warp threads,
(a) Preparing the hole.
(6) Strengthening the material be-
yond the hole,
(c) Crossing the hole.
I. Catching all loops on the edge
of the hole.
II. Leaving loops of the repairing
thread on the edge of the darn,
(d) Shape of the darn,
d. Inserting the woof threads.
IV. DARNING WOVEN
MATERIAL.
Illustrations.—Various woven materials,
Bchool work of children. Materials
and garments darned in different
ways, blackboard diagrams and pho-
tographs.
(I) Connecting this Subject with For-
mer Ones.
(II) Method or Repairing.
1. Replacing the exact pattern by weav-
ing back.
2. Replacing broken threads by a warp
and woof or diagonal darn. (1) Break across the warp, break
across the woof, break diagonally
across both warp and woof, a hedge
tear and darning in new material.


PATCHING
91
Nos. 38, 39, 40, 41 and 42. PATCHING.
Use.—A piece set in a garment to take the place of a worn or torn part.
A patch is used when the hole is too large to be darned.
There are many ways of patching. Different kinds and values of ma-
terials and the amount of strain which will be put upon the repaired portion
call forth different treatment. The repairing necessary in garments when
certain parts have worn out and must be replaced, such as cuffs on shirt
waists and hems on skirts, is also called patching, but it requires special
knowledge of the making of the different parts needing renewing.
General Rules.—It is better to take an old piece of the same material
for the patch as the new will often tear away the fabric. If the old cannot
be obtained, new material of a lighter quality than the original condition of
the old will serve better in a very old garment than the original. The pat-
tern, if there is one, should be very carefully matched; the right side of the
patch should come on the right side of the material; warp threads should
join warp threads and the woof, the woof. If there is a nap, as in flannel,
it must run the same way as it does on the garment.
The worn place must be examined to decide on the size of the hole as
well as on any weak parts beyond it which may need strengthening. The
character of the material and the strain it must bear, must be considered to
determine the manner of repairing. When the garment is very old, worth
little trouble, and does not have to be laundered, the simplest means of patch-
ing may be used, such as running or hemming the right side of the garment
to the patch and overcasting the raw edges on the wrong side. If, however,
the material is of value, the strain on the place small and the repair must
be as invisible as possible the patch may be cut the exact size of the hole,
and darning or fine drawing may be used to hold it in place. When a very
substantial patch is needed in a garment which will be laundered, a quite
different treatment will be required. In such cases both the right and the
wrong side of the garment must be strong and complete. To prepare for this
there must be careful calculation of the exact size needed for the patch. The
hole and any weak parts must be covered and folds must be turned in on
the garment and on the patch. The thread for repairing depends on the
character of the material. Where seams are to be made fine, strong thread
should be used.
When the size of the part needing strengthening, the manner of repair-
ing it and the required dimensions of the patch have been considered, the
hole must be prepared for patching. If a square or oblong patch will serve
best, the center of the place needing it must first be found. A crease (or a
line of basting stitches) should be made down the warp through this center,
and another crease should be made along the woof. Both creases should ex-
tend well beyond the hole. Where the lines cross (or should cross if a hole
is worn) is the center of the hole. The hole must now be cleared and pre-
pared. It is usually cut square or oblong (circular patches are seldom de-
sirable. Irregular edges are sometimes left in wool material which is to be
darned down on the patch.) The piece cut out of the garment may be used
as a guide in matching. If, however, a hole has been worn, the repairing
material can be slipped underneath and the pattern matched. The center
of the patch as well as the garment should be indicated by creased or basted


A SEWING COURSE
lines. Measure the patch from its center along the creased lines and cut it
out as exactly as possible. Prepare it according to its special requirements.
When folds must be made on the raw edges of the patch, turn two opposite
sides before folding the clear sides over them so there will be regularity at
the corners. The creased lines in both the garment and the patch should make
the final matching an easy matter.
Suggestion.—Patching requires judgment on the part of the worker.
It is not enough to simply teach a child how to make a certain kind of patch
under given circumstances. She should have experience in deciding what to
do. It is better not to rely on dictation for teaching the subject. Each step
should be thought out and various kinds of holes cut by the children, so they
may learn to calculate the size of the patch for themselves.
The same kind of hole in varying materials necessitates an entirely dif-
ferent treatment. For illustration, where a worn place in silk merely requires
a piece of the same placed underneath, matching the pattern, but held down
with a minimum of stitches showing on the surface, a similar worn place in
a linen pillow-case must be patched and strongly sewed, with hems turned
back, that it may stand the laundry. Comparison of ways of repairing, as
well as much practice, should be given to the classes. Darning and patching
are often required on the same worn place. The classes must consider how
best to preserve garments. A good gown is often ruined by poor repair.
Repairing of parts of garments such as cuffs, hems, collars and under
arms, should be discussed also by the classes. When a patch is to be put
under the arm, the seam should be opened, the material separated from the
lining, the patch inserted and the parts again united. The teacher should
bring to the class garments requiring repairing of various kinds and also
examples of patching. The children should also, when possible, bring small
garments needing repairing from home. Small articles or parts of garments
can be made in the class and repaired. The whole subject should have thor-
ough discussion.
Practice in paper is an excellent means of teaching patching. Manila or
striped tissue paper may be used. In classes where there is not time to make
all the different kinds of patches, certain varieties may be made in paper
alone so the children may get ideas on methods of handling.
Circular patches are sometimes used in table linen, in the knees of boys'
trousers and in the elbows of their coats. The wear on these points makes
it sometimes desirable to have seams turned in the cloth. They can be stitched
in, stretched into shape usually without nicking, dampened and pressed with
a hot iron.
As the object of patching is to make an invisible repair, the material to
be used for the patch should be as similar to the garment as possible. The
use of old material, the washing of the new or the fading of it in the sun
often helps to accomplish this.
Note.—It is advisable that each one who will make the following kinds of
patching should vary the place and the shape of the hole to be repaired and
decide for herself on the size of the repairing piece. For the sake of clearness
a definite shape will be described in the practice pieces.


OVERHAND PATCH
B5
Turn to the wrong side, insert the scissors into the hole and cut the garment
to within the same distance of the overhand stitches as the width of the folds
turned on the patch. Cut diagonally in each corner toward the overhand
stitches and press the raw edges of the garment beyond the patch. (Fig. 35.)
This will make the entire patch slip into
the hole and therefore show little on the
right side. Press carefully.
In placing the overhanded patch
on wool material, warp ravelings of the
cloth may be used for the sewing in-
stead of split silk.
Practice.—If material needing re-
pairing cannot be provided, take a piece
of striped or figured cotton or wool ma-
terial. Crease it through the center
along warp and woof. (See General
Rules.) Indicate on it in pencil or by
basting the shape of a hole or worn part.
Cut a small hole in the center (if one
is not already worn) large enough to
Fig. 35. Overhanded Patch. insert the scissors. Consider the size
(Wrong Side.) ot the place to be repaired; the size of the patch to cover such a hole would be
(1) the dimensions of the hole just mentioned; (2) the folds on all four sides,
i. e., 14 of an inch allowed on each side for the turning back of material
after the patch is sewed on; (3) V4 of an inch on each side of the patch to
allow for turns. Taken together these amounts equal the size and shape of
the repairing piece. This is for plain material that does not fray, larger
seams must be allowed for loosely woven material. Figured material needs
special consideration in matching the pattern. Prepare the patch and finish
the work according to the rule.
Suggestion.—-See under Patching on page 92.
FLANNEL PATCH.
Use.—As flannel is not liable to fray, the raw edges of the garment and
the patch may be held down with herring-bone stitches and still be sufficiently
strong.
Rule.—The hole should be cut clear of frayed material (it is usually
square or oblong). The patch should be cut from % to % an inch larger
than the hole, be placed directly over it without turning in any of the raw
edges and be basted into place. Care must be taken in matching the right
side of the flannel, the warp, woof and ply. The patch should be held in
place on both right and wrong sides by a fine herring-bone stitch (see direc-
tions) over the raw edges of the material. The stitch is usually strong enough
if it goes through the material on one side only, and on the other side if it
goes into but one thickness of flannel. For turning the square corners, see
Fig. 42. The repairing thread is usually cotton or silk.
( i
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96
A SEWING COURSE
Practice.—As the herring-bone stitch will later be practiced in the
Sewing Course, it is not necessary to make a special practice piece for patch-
ing flannel unless the worker desires to do so.
Stockinet and woven underwear may also be patched by using the her-
ring-bone stitch.
Suggestion.—It is well for a class to practice on the repair of knitted
underwear using the herring-bone stitch over the raw edges.
DAMASK PATCH.
MATERIALS FOR PRACTICE.
Damask, Flourishing Thread, No. 1000. Needle, No. 10.
4x4 Inches or Ravelings of Damask (warp.) Fine Darning.
ANY DESIRED SIZE.
1x1 Inch or depending on the size of the hole.
Application.—On napkins, doilies and covers brought from home.
Use.—Repairing tablecloths, napkins and household linen, especially in fine closely woven damask.
Varieties.—Damask patching should be as neat and invisible as possible
on both sides of the material. The overhanded and felled patch (see Rule
for Hemmed Patch) is frequently used, but shows too much for fine damask.
The wrong side of an overhanded patch (see directions) is unsightly and
therefore not fitted for table covers or napkins. When the hole in fine damask
is not too large the pattern may be darned in. (See Weaving and Darning.)
When a slit has been made in it the wrong side may be held together by over-
casting, pressed open, and ravelings of the damask may be woven back and
forth over the place on the right side, repeating the pattern as far as pos-
sible. After washing and careful pressing, this repair should show very lit-
tle. When there is a good-sized hole in fine damask, a strong and neat patch
may be inserted by fine drawing. (Fig. 36.) The stitch may be used alone
or combined with darning,

Fig. 36.—Fine-Drawing. Fig. 37.—Darning by Fine Drawing.
Rule for Patching by Fine-Drawing.—The damask should be as soft
as possible; it is therefore well to wash new or stiff material. Cut away the


DAMASK PATCH
97
worn parts. The usual shape is square or oblong. Cut the patch exactly the
size of the hole, being careful to match the pattern, right side of damask, etc.
(See General Rules.) Place the patch in the hole. If the damask is fine in
quality and woven very close, fine-drawing alone may be used to hold the
patch to the material. It is a simple, alternating stitch (Figs. 36 and 37)
made toward the worker or away from her as in herring-bone. It is used fre-
quently to hold together heavy cloth or selvages (see Suggestion for Seams).
The stitches are usually made a little distance apart and slanting like a lac-
ing (Fig. 36), but may be made close together and straight (Fig. 37).
In cheaper qualities of damask, fine-drawing should be combined with
darning for holding together the patch and the material. The darning should
begin beyond the hole and the stitches and the loops where the thread turns
back should be buried in the material as much as possible. "When the darn-
ing stitches are within a few threads of the hole, fine-drawing should be
taken over the edge on one side and under the edge, the same distance, on
the other, continuing the darning in the damask on the other side. The darning
stitches should end as irregularly as possible. The fine-drawing must be direct-
ly along warp and woof, to show as little as possible (Fig. 37) and it must
alternate in succeeding lines. The corners should be made secure by crossing
the warp and woof darning at these points. If carefully done this darn
should show little when the damask has been laundered. It is not as strong
as the overhanded and felled patch (see Rule for Hemmed Patch), but is
more satisfactory in appearance for fine damask. A fine darning needle is
sometimes used in place of a sharp needle in this patch. Fine-drawing is
also used for cloth patches.
Practice.—Take a piece of damask 4x4 inches, cut a hole in the center.
Cut a patch the same size and darn it in by fine-drawing alone or by fine-
drawing and darning, according to the quality of the damask.
Suggestion.—See under Patching, page 92.
CLOTH PATCH
MATERIALS FOR PRACTICE.
Wool or Worsted Ravelings op Cloth or Silk, No. A. Needle, No. 7-11.
Suiting, 4x4 Inches.
Size of patch depends on the
kind of patching selected.
Application.—Garments of wool or worsted brought from home.
Use.—For repairing outer garments of wool or worsted.
Cloth may be repaired in many ways according to the quality and value
of the material and the wear which it will have to endure. The Overhanded
Patch (see directions) is frequently used for light-weight cloths. Heavy
cloth may be repaired by fine-drawing (see Damask Patch) by burying the
stitches in the thickness of the cloth and drawing them close together so the
break will be almost invisible. Thin cloth, such as ladies' cloth, which may
be too clumsy to turn into folds, may have the patch darned in.
Darned-in Patch for Cloth.—The very worn part should be cut away
(the hole is usually made square or oblong and cut clean. If it will show less


96
A SEWING COURSE
with irregular edges they should be left and carefully darned down.) The
patch may be cut the same size as the hole, and darned in, or it may be
cut V2 mch larger than the hole. The pattern, the right side of the cloth,
the warp, woof and ply, must be matched (see General Rules). When the
patch is cut larger than the hole it should be laid over it on the wrong side
and basted down. Turn the cloth to the right side and with ravelings of the
material or with split silk of a shade darker follow the pattern as nearly as
possible, darning the raw edges down to the patch. The stitches should be
as invisible as the strength needed will allow. Turn to the wrong side and
herring-bone the patch to the cloth. The stitch should not go through to the
right side. This patch is similar to the one described under Rules for Darn-
ing Woven Material, Practice in Cashmere (4).
Stitched Patch for Cloth.
Use.—For a patch which will show little but will bear hard wear.
Rule.—This patch closely resembles the overhanded patch, but is stitched
instead of overhanded. The stitch, therefore, does not show on the right side.
Cut the worn part away. The hole is usually made square or oblong. Nick
the cloth in each corner and turn back good folds (V4 to % an inch). Cut
the patch as for the overhanded patch (see directions). Lay it flat on the
back against the turned-back folds on the edge of the hole. Pin it or baste
it in place. Stitch the folds to the patch on all four sides. When the stitch-
ing is done press open the seams on the wrong side. This will turn the patch
back on itself. Miter the cloth in each corner of the patch so it will lie flat.
The wrong side of the stitched patch will look very much like Fig. 35, except
the seam will show no stitches and the turned-back corners of the patch will
be mitered instead of square.
Practice.—Take a piece of cloth, 4x4 inches. Examine the weight and
quality of it, decide on the kind of patch best adapted to it and repair accord-
ingly.
Suggestion.—See under Patching, page 92.


FEATHER OR CORAL AND CHAIN STITCHING 96
Not. 43 and 44. FEATHER OR CORAL AND
CHAIN STITCHING.
MATERIALS FOB PRACTICE.
Striped French Flannel. Silk (color of the stripe). Needle, No. 8-9.
(V2 inch stripe) 4x4 Inches. No. A—B.
Application.—On underclothing, baby clothes and small articles such as
collars, cuffs and cases.
Term.—The term Feather Stitch is derived from the graceful form of
the stitch. Coral stitch is a more angular variety of it.

Fig. 38.—Feather Stitchinc
Use.—An attractive stitch for ornamenting all kinds of needle-work.
Fitness.—The form is attractive and can be modified to suit different
occasions. It can be merely ornamental or can be made strong enough to hold
down a hem in place of the hemming stitch.
Rule.—The work is done on the right side of the material, toward the
worker. In the single varieties of it the stitch is taken alternately on the
left and on the right side of the pattern. The thread is caught in a loop with
each stitch as in the blanket-stitch. The number of threads taken up each
time depends on the pattern chosen. Feather stitching proper is taken diag-
onally across warp and woof threads. (Fig. 38.) In the coral stitch variety
the needle goes along a thread of the material. (Fig. 38.) (In the design
the coral stitch is made double.) The stitch must be made accurately to look
well. The width and relation of one stitch to the other never varies during
the progress of the work. The position is over the first finger or first two
fingers of the left hand. The work is begun with a knot or an end of thread


t


HERRING-BONE
103
No. 45. HERRING-BONE.
MATERIALS FOB PRACTICE.
Flannel, Silk A. Needle, No. 9.
5Vjjx2V4 Inches (two pieces). Cotton, No. 60.
Application.—On flannel skirts, a flannel patch or as decoration.
Use.—(1) To hold down hems, seams and raw edges in flannel and other
woolen materials, so that they may felt when washed and thus not ravel.
(2) A means of lightly holding down materials of all kinds in place of hem-
ming. (3) An ornamental stitch.
Fitness.—Material made of wool is apt to shrink in washing. Ordinary
stitches are unnecessarily strong and when used on wool would cause the
material to draw after washing. The looseness of the herring-bone, combined
with the natural felting of the flannel, makes the stitch a serviceable one for
woolen fabrics. The attractive form, easily adapted to various positions,
makes this stitch also useful as an ornamental finish.
Rule for Herrino-Bone.—The herring-bone (also called catch-stitch)
is worked from left to right, or away from the worker. It is a sort of cross-
stitch taken alternately from side to side. The position is over the first two
fingers of the left hand. The form of the stitch may vary greatly in the
length of the slanting line which connects the crosses on either side, and also
in the distance apart of the crosses. When the stitch is once started the
width of it and the relative position of the cross stitches on either side must
remain the same. In the most usual form of the stitch the crosses on one
side come exactly between the crosses on the other side, so that the bottom
of the stitch on one side is directly opposite the top of the stitch on the other.
On the wrong side of the cloth the stitch looks like two lines of running-
stitches. Begin at the extreme left of the material, and bring the needle
through where the work is to begin. In each
stitch the needle points directly toward the
worker. Make an upward slanting stitch toward
the left (or right, as the case may be), insert the
needle in the material and bring it out directly
along the warp or woof threads in as deep a stitch
as desired. Take now a slanting stitch upward
toward the opposite side on a line above the point
where the work began, and bring the needle out
the same depth as the first stitch on the opposite
Pig 42. Herring-Bone. s'de and on a line with the top of that stitch. Al-
ternately take the stitch from side to side, pre-
serving carefully the same width, the same depth of the stitches and the bot-
tom of one cross-stitch directly opposite the height of the one on the other
side. The stitch may be begun with a small carefully concealed knot or an
end of thread may be left and sewed down afterward. In a hem a double
stitch may be used on the wrong side for beginning, ending, and taking a
new thread.
In a flannel patch (see directions) the herring-bone stitch is used over the
raw edges of the patch and of the garment. To make the corners of the
patch neat the stitch should be turned carefully. (Fig. 42.)


106
A SEWING COURSE
* •'AvA'JI'i'A'l'*',
The following description is of three simple patterns. No. 1.—Draw Vs °f
inch of threads, hemstitch across both edges taking up the same threads on
each side. The effect will be a series of upright posts. No. 2.—Draw a little
over yg of an inch of threads. Make a double row of hemstitching as in the
first pattern. One thread will connect the entire line in the finishing of the
pattern. To accomplish this fasten the thread in the middle of the first bar
or post, put the needle across two bars beyond, let
it go over the third, then under, and back first
over and then under the second. This will twist
the third bar over the second with the thread
through it. Twist the fifth bar over the fourth
the same way and continue across the drawn
threads. Fasten off in the last bar. No. 3.—
Draw ys of an inch of threads, hemstitch across
one side. On the other edge take for the first
stitch but half of the stitch below; for the second,
make one stitch out of the halves of two of the
stitches below. This will give a sort of herring-
bone effect. These three patterns may make an
attractive border by leaving *4 of an inch of
plain material between them.
44, Drawn Work. Practice.—First practice piece. A small hemstitched handkerchief. Take sheer linen 4x4
inches. A half inch hem is to be placed on all four sides. Allow for the
hem and small fold in the material (1% inches) and draw threads (between
1-16 and % of an inch in fine material), on all four sides. Turn in a hem
to the drawn threads. Baste carefully, especially at the corners, cut out
some of the material from under them if necessary (Miter No. 1), but square
and overhand them neatly. Follow the rule for hemstitching.
Second Practice Piece.—Take linen 5x4 inches. A 1 inch hem is to be
placed at the bottom and several rows of drawn work will ornament the
material above the hem. The hem will be held by one pattern. Draw %
of an inch of threads 2% inches from one end. Fold the hem to the edge of
the drawn threads and baste carefully. Hemstitch the hem down with a
moderately fine stitch. Complete the opposite side of the drawn threads
according to the pattern described under No. 1. Skip 14 of an inch of linen
and use No. 2 for the second pattern; again skip y4 of an inch of linen and
use No. 3 for the final design. Fine feather stitching may be placed on
the plain linen between the patterns, if desired.
Suggestion.—Hemstitching may be learned very readily on canvas.
It may be used in a number of ways. Coarse linen for toweling may be pur-
chased and little towels with hemstitched hems may be made by the chil-
dren. Simple drawn work may also be used in this way. The towels may
be marked by using cross stitch, chain stitch or satin stitch for the letters.
A letter may also be embroidered on the handkerchief.
All the hems in the apron described under Whipped Hem may be hem-
stitched. The stitch may also be used on small sheets, pillow cases, collars,
cuffs and lingerie. Rows of simple drawn work with feather stitching be-
tween make a most attractive finish for small linen articles such as cases
of various kinds, bureau covers and tea table linen.


108
A SEWING. COURSE
Embroidered edgings of various kinds can be whipped and used on dif-
ferent pieces of small underclothing to give practical application to the
classes. Little pillowcases or aprons can also be made and trimmed with
whipped hem ruffles.
SMALL APRON OF FINE MUSLIN
MATERIALS FOR PRACTICE.
Dimity, Nainsook or Cotton, No. 100. Needle, No. 11.
Barred Muslin.
5x6V2 Inches.
6x1 Inch (band).
6x1 Vi Inch (2 pieces for strings).
Put Vs inch hems along the 5-inch sides of the muslin. Take a % inch
hem at the bottom. Gather and stroke the top (see Running Stitch). Pre-
pare the band for a Stitched Band (see Putting on Band). Draw the top of
the apron in to 3 inches, stitch it to the center of the band, hem down the
other side of the band to the gathers and overhand the sides of the band to
the end. (See Application of Stitches—Aprons.) The strings may be pre-
pared by putting narrow hems on the long edges and turning V2 inch hems
at one end, the other ends will be inserted in the bands.
This apron should apply some of the fancy stitches. A whipped hem
ruffle can be overhanded to the bottom; hemstitching can be used in place of
hemming or the hems can all be held down with feather stitching. Each
child should select her own method of finishing her apron. The materials
are given for a doll's apron, but the teacher must use her discretion in giv-
ing a full-sized apron in place of the small one.


CROSS STITCH
108
No. 49. CROSS STITCH.
MATERIALS FOR PRACTICE.
Penelope Canvas or Scrim, Colored Wool Tapestry Needle. 5x5 Inches (Crewel or Saxony.) Colored Silk EE.
Application.—On towels, sheets, washcloths and household articles.
Use.—For marking underclothing, holding bands to the seams of waists
in dressmaking, and for an ornamental finish in fancy work.
Fitness.—The form is attractive and the work is rapidly executed and
sufficiently enduring for the purpose.
Rule.—The stitch is double and consists of two slanting parts crossing
each other on the right side of the material, and of two straight lines, which
may be either vertical or horizontal, on the wrong side of the material. The
points of the cross on the right side should, if enclosed, form a perfect square.
In canvas the stitch is usually two threads high and two threads wide. (Fig.
46.) The needle is brought out on one side and put through to the-other
diagonally—this forms one half of the stitch. It is now crossed in the oppo-
site way. In a design the crossing must all be in the same direction and the
wrong side must be neat. It is better to leave an end of thread to be worked
over by the stitches than to begin with a knot. The fastening off can be done
in the same manner. In marking, each cross stitch
should be finished separately and the thread should
not be carried from one letter to another.
It is well to practice on canvas before mark-
ing linen. Designs for the letters can be purchased
or they may be originated by the worker. A piece
of fine canvas or of coarse scrim can be basted to
the linen over the place where the letters are to go.
The cross stitches can be made on this canvas to
keep the form accurate and when the letters are
finished the threads of the canvas can be pulled
out. leaving the design on the linen.
Practice/—Take a piece of Penelope canvas
or of scrim 5x5 inches. Turn a *4 inch nem on
all four sides and hold it down with the cross
Fig. 46.—Cross Stitch, stitching, alternating two cross stitches above and two below to make an ornamental finish on the
edge. Care must be taken to adjust the stitches neatly at the corners; an
extra stitch can often be taken here with good effect. On the inside of the
square place the initials of the name and the year or other letters and figures
may be made in cross stitches. - 1
Suggestion.—It is unnecessary for anyone to make the entire alphabet
on the canvas as designs can be easily procured and the work is not difficult. This stitch is an excellent one for children in early grades to use on bur-
lap. It allows of so much variation that they can easily invent designs of
their own. It can be used to hold down the hems in cheese cloth dusters.
In later grades it may be used for marking little sheets, pillow cases and


110 A SEWING COURSE
towels. Care must be taken to choose a cotton thread for marking which
will stand laundering.
In dressmaking the cross stitch is used to make the inside of a waist at-
tractive and, at the same time, to hold the belt to the seams. The stitch is
made in silk of a color to match the silk seam binding, the overcasting, or
the fans of stitches on the bone casings.
Nos. 50 and 51. SATIN STITCH. TYING FRINGE.
MATERIALS FOR PRACTICE.
Linen. Cotton, No. 100. Needle, No. 8-10.
6x6 or 10x10 Inches D. M. C. No. 25-60 for Embroidery.
No. 16 for the Filling.
(Two letters stamped in the center or at the end.)
Application.—Letters on handkerchiefs and household linen, decoration
and lettering on underclothing, decoration on collars and cuffs. Fringe on
towels and doilies.
Use.—For marking handkerchiefs and household linen and for orna-
menting clothing, table covers and ecclesiastical draperies. It is used on all
materials.
Fitness.—The close over and over stitch with or without a previous
preparation in filling makes a substantial design which will wear for
years and have a chaste and beautiful effect.
Rule for Satin Stitch.—Satin stitch (Fig. 47) requires patience to
learn and skill in the working. It is usually worked in a frame. Hoops may
be purchased in which the work may be stretched. For the marking of
household linen, in letters of from one to two inches in size, it is possible to
do good work without a frame. The stitch may be either flat or raised. In
letters it is customary to fill in well the parts enclosed in double lines. The
preparation must be done with the greatest care and precision as irregular-
ities in the padding show in the finished work. Some workers begin by fol-
lowing all the lines of the design with a short irregular running stitch which
takes the slightest hold in the material and leaves the most of the stitch on
the surface. When the design is in double lines the stitch is taken just in-
side of the marking. In padding the space between the lines the outline


EMBROIDERY ON FLANNEL
113
No. 52. EMBROIDERY ON FLANNEL.
BLANKET STITCH, OUTLINE STITCH, SATIN STITCH AND
FRENCH KNOT.
MATERIALS FOR PRACTICE.
Silk, No. B-E.
Wool or
D. M. C. No. 16.
Needle, No. 6-8.
Tapestry Needle.
Flannel, 5x5 Inches. ■
(A scalloped edge stamped on
two sides and some simple
designs in the center.)
Application.—On a small flannel petticoat or baby sack.
Use.—A scalloped border of blanket stitches is used to finish the raw
edges of many articles of flannel. It gives both beauty and durability to the
raw edge and takes the place of a hem in heavy material which is too thick
to fold well. Small geometrical or flower designs are embroidered on infants'
sacks and petticoats for the purpose of decoration.
Rules.—Scallops in Flannel are made with the blanket stitch (Fig. 23).
The outer edge should be firm and substantial (see Blanket Stitch.) A pad-
ding of wool or cotton may be made before the blanket stitch is used. Wool
is well adapted to the flannel, as it shrinks in laundering. An irregular run-
ning stitch, leaving most of the wool on the surface, is good for this purpose.
The outline of the scallop and the space between may be filled according to
the raised effect desired. The stamped form of the scallop must be carefully
preserved. Very few filling stitches should meet where the design is narrow.
A heavy silk such as No. E or No. EE is used for the edge.
Designs on Flannel are principally worked with the satin stitch. It is
seldom necessary to pad. Stems and outlines are made with the Kensington
outline stitch instead of with the satin stitch as on linen. Small flowers and
leaves may be merely outlined or the satin stitch may be used to cover the
entire surface. In designs like the daisy form the satin stitch may begin at
the center of each petal and be worked toward the edge, or a radiating stitch
from the center out may be used. French knots are frequently used in flan-
nel for one side of a leaf or flower, or for the centers of flowers.
Kensington Outline Stitch. The outline stitch follows a traced line
and is made away from the worker (Fig. 48). The needle is brought out at
the end of the stem or line, a long stitch is taken
ahead on this line and a short stitch back through
the material. The stitch back may be made either
to the right or to the left. The length of the stitch
may vary according to the requirements of the
design. The stitch resembles the backstitch turned
wrong side out, i. e., the rope-like effect is on the
right side of the material and the little stitches
with a space between are on the wrong side. Where
a very substantial stem is needed the outline
stitches can be made very close together. The work
is held over the first or first two fingers of the
left hand.
The French Knot. These are made in vari-
ous ways. One way in general use is to fasten the
Fig. 48.—Outline Stitch, thread well and bring the needle out in the epot


114
A SEWING COURSE
where the French knot is to be. Put the needle down to this place, wrap
the thread two or three times around the needle, draw it so that the twisted
thread is around the needle close to the spot intended for it, insert the point
of the needle in the material at this same place, and holding the thread tight,
fasten the knot down to the material by drawing the needle and the length
of the thread through to the wrong side.
Practice.—Have a piece of white flannel 5x5 inches stamped near the
raw edges with a plain scallop on one side and a triple or fancy scallop on
the other. In the plain space between have a few simple sprigs stamped
(such as conventional leaves and flowers). Use the blanket-stitch for the
scallops; the satin stitch for the leaves and flowers; a close outline stitch for
the stems, and the French knot for the centers of flowers or for one half of
some of the leaves. A number of French knots may be made close together
to cover a surface.
If the practice piece is to be retained, cut the flannel close to the scallop
on one side to show the completed effect and leave the flannel below the scal-
lops on the other side to show the way the work has been done. In making
garments the flannel should be washed to allow for the shrinking before the
material below the scallop is cut away.
Suggestion.—Some article such as a small flannel skirt should be made
by the pupils. In place of having the flannel stamped in scallops a five or
ten cent piece may be laid on the flannel and half circles drawn regularly
across the sides. These may again be joined by a smaller inner circle. De-
signs for the edge may be drawn by the children. The drawing teachers in
schools should prepare the classes for adequate designing for the decoration
of their clothing. Very attractive yet simple designs may be made and di-
rectly utilized on garments. Linen book covers and portfolios may be de-
signed and embroidered in the same way that flannel would be.
Nos. 53 and 54. COUCHING AND APPLIQUE. MATERIALS FOR PRACTICE.
Linen or Unbleached Mercerized Yarn, Scotch Needle, No. 6.
Sheeting, 6x3 Inches. Floss, or Jute Threads,
Material in Contrasting several strands.
Color, 2x2 Inches. Silk, B or C.
Application.—Decoration of table covers, scarfs and bags.
Use.—Couching is a decorative stitch for outlining a pattern. It is
frequently used in place of the outline-stitch to cover the cut edge of applique
work and, at the same time, to hold it down to another material, and also to
make a foundation over which other stitches can be worked, as in Venetian
embroidery. In the latter, the blanket-stitch is made over the couched cord
to obtain a design in high relief.
Applique is the laying of one piece of material upon another. It takes
the place of solid embroidery in a design. Couching is very generally used
in connection with it. Both couching and applique are largely used in his-
toric national embroideries, and have been used by many primitive people.
They can be utilized to advantage in the schools, even with young pupils.


118
A SEWING COURSE
Braid should be shrunk before using it on a garment or dampness may
cause it to do so later and thus draw the skirt out of shape. There are vari-
ous methods of shrinking the braid; such as plunging it in lukewarm water
for a few minutes and then shaking it out, putting it in boiling water and
then drying it, or sponging it with water and afterward ironing it dry.
Skirt braids and veleteens are better sewed on by hand than by machine,
as the dust is less apt to catch in the stitches and wear them out.
Rule for Sewing on Braid.—(1) When there is a lining in the skirt the
following method is often used. Turn up the bottom of the skirt the re-
quired length and hem the lining down over it. The lining when hemmed
should be of an inch above the bottom of the skirt. Lay the braid flat on
the wrong side of the skirt, letting it drop Vs ot an inch below the bottom.
Run it on with an occasional backstitch 14 of an inch from the bottom of
the braid, being careful not to take the stitch through to the cloth on the
right side. Hem the opposite side of the braid to the lining (some workers
prefer to use the running-stitch here also, as they consider it wears better,
being more protected than the slanting stitch over the edge of the braid).
To join the ends of the braid lay one end IV2 inches over the other end. Turn
each raw edge in y2 mch so that one will lap in the other. Overhand the folds
at the bottom and hem the upper braid on the lower. Or sew the two ends
together !/-. inch from the raw edges. Turn back each end and hem or over-
cast it to the braid beneath that no raw edges will be exposed. Press care-
fully.
(2) Where there is no lining in the skirt or where there is a drop skirt,
the bottom is turned up the required length and finished with a hem or facing,
varying in depth from 1% to 4 inches. To protect the edge of this hem, a
mohair braid may be placed at the bottom. Allow the edge of the braid
to extend about 1-16 of an inch below the hem. The upper edge of the braid
may be fastened to the hem by a running or hemming stitch. If greater
strength is needed put a second row of stitches at the lower edge also, being
careful not to take them through to the right side. Press carefully.
(3) Braid may also be sewed on so that it will have the effect of a
fold at the bottom of the skirt, as in the velveteen binding. The skirt and
the lining must be cut even and the braid laid on the right side of the skirt
with its edge even with the other edges. The braid is sewed on by machine
14 of an inch from the bottom through the lining and the skirt. It is then
turned back with all the raw edges underneath and hemmed to the lining
or the skirt on the wrong side. The fold of the braid should extend ys of an
inch below the skirt to protect it. Press carefully.
Rule fob Sewing on Velveteen.—Cut the skirt and lining, if there is
one, even all the way around. Turn them about % an inch so the skirt will
be the desired length, and hem the raw edges to the lining. Press carefully.
Lay the velveteen on the bottom of the skirt with its right side against the
wrong side of the skirt. Let V4 of an inch of the velveteen lie on the skirt
and the rest extend below. Run it by hand to the skirt Vs of an inch from
the bottom. Turn the velveteen back so that the fold will drop % of an inch
below the finished edge of the skirt and baste it in place. Turn in the oppo-
site edge of the velveteen 14 of an inch and hem it to the skirt or to the lin-
ing (it is sometimes herring-boned without turning in the edge). Join the
ends of the velveteen by allowing y2 inch more than the circumference of the
skirt and sew the two ends in a bias seam.


A SEWING COURSE
material and seam it to the opening a little way within the former seam,
turn it back to form a facing on the wrong side and hem it to the lining or to
the skirt. This side will lap over the other. As the seam has been made a little
within the pressed line of the former seam, it will not show. Turn to the left
side, take the piece for the fly (the selvage strip, the double strip or the lined
strip) and lay it on the left side with the right sides of the cloth together.
Stitch into a seam a little within the pressed line of the seam, turn the seam
back and let the added piece of cloth lie flat under the right side of the
placket. Bind or overcast the part of the seam below the opening ( see Bind-
ing Seams). At the bottom of the opening the fly must be fastened to the
upper facing and both must be fastened to the dress lining or skirt without
going through to the right side. Lay the fly flat on the facing and stitch them
together at the end of the opening. The ends below the stitching may be fin-
ished in three ways. (1) If the cloth is strongly woven some of the material
under the fly may be cut away and the raw edges of the fly herring-boned or
hemmed to the lining of of the dress. (2) If the cloth is light in weight, turn
the fly back in a fold and fasten it to the seam of the skirt, or (3) cut the
raw edges of the fly and the upper facing even and bind them across with
silk binding. The seam containing the fly can be bound its entire length with
silk binding or it can be overcast.
Practice.—Take two pieces of cloth or cashmere, 4x2y 2 inches, leave
them unlined or line them with cotton skirt lining according to the prevailing
fashion. Stitch together (either by hand or machine) the two pieces in a good
seam. Press the seam open. The opening for the placket can now be made
down the seam 2*4 inches. The way to proceed with the rest of the placket
depends on the cloth chosen. If it is a strong suiting use selvage strips of
cloth and follow the rule in completing the placket. If a soft flimsy wool
has been chosen the underfacing or fly can be lined with the dress-lining.
In most wool materials a double strip of the material may be used for the
underfacing. Follow the rule in completing the placket. Bind the seams with silk binding or overcast them.
Rule for Pockets.—Ways of cutting and inserting pockets should also
be discussed by the classes. They may be cut in two pieces in a bag shape
with one side straight and the other curved, with the opening on the straight
side; or they may be cut in two pear-shaped pieces and one piece laid on top
of the other with an opening cut in the center of one of the pieces. The
length is about 13 or 14 inches. They are set into a seam of the skirt or in
a slit in the material. A bag pocket would have its opening two or more
inches below its top. Pockets are faced inside with the material of the dress.
This facing should extend back, above and below the opening at least two
inches, so that the inside of the pocket will not show if open a little. When
the pocket is made it is turned wrong side out, put through the opening of
the seam prepared for it, and seamed on the wrong side to the skirt in the fold
of the seam. As small a seam should be taken from the pocket as the need
of strength will allow, so that it will close better. This is especially the case
at the top and the bottom of the pocket seam. The seams should be pressed
open and bound or overcast. A ribbon or tape should be sewed to the top
of the pocket and fastened to the belt to sustain the weight and keep the
pocket in shape. When the pocket and the placket are on the same seam the for-
mer usually extends to the belt and does not need the tape or ribbon. The upper
part of the seam of the pocket should be carefully sewed by hand to the
skirt, as the tapering off of the seams makes it rather weak at this point. The


122
A SEWING COURSE
the raw edges, the hooks and the eyes with galoon or silk bone-casing,
hemming it down on both sides. If the waist front is to be untrimmed the
dress material must be folded back to entirely cover the hooks and eyes. The
material should be cut to extend well beyond the casing. Turn under the raw
edge on each side back on itself allowing the fold to extend far enough beyond
the edge of the bone-casing so that it will completely cover the hooks and eyes
when they are fastened and under strain. Slip-stitch in place.
Sewing on the Hooks and Eyes.—An over and over stitch is usually
better to hold the hooks and eyes than the buttonhole-stitch, as it is firmer
The metal loops are made for the stitches. It is sometimes well to spread the
lower part of the hooks a little, that the stitches may not be quite so close
together. In beginning to sew on either a hook or an eye it is well to take two
stitches in one loop and then two in the other to hold it in place and then return
to sew around each loop and across between the loops, drawing the thread very
tight. In addition to this the eyes should also be held down on each side, just
above the loops and again near the edge of the material, and the hooks should
be sewed across the shank near the turning back of the hook.
Practice.—Take two pieces of waist lining 4x2% inches, finish them ac-
cording to any of the three suggested ways. Take small black hooks, instead
of a larger size generally used in waists, so they will be less apt to injure
the bristol-board in the interleaved edition of the Sewing Course. Put on
four hooks and eyes, alternating them at equal distances on the practice pieces.
Nos. 60 and 61. BONE CASING. SEAM BINDING.
MATERIALS FOR PRACTICE.
Dress Material, 4x2V2 Inches (2 pieces). Silk No. A.
Waist Lining (Percaline or French Cambric) Cotton No. 50
4x2% Inches (2 pieces). (To match Dress material.)
Whalebone, 3% Inches. Silk Binding, 10 Inches.
Qaloon or Bone Casing, 6V2 Inches. Needle, No. 8 or 9.
In the finishing of a waist the putting in of the bones and the binding
of the seams are very important. After the waist is put together the seams
must be cut even and notched in certain places, especially in curved seams in
order to fit into the figure. One notch is always made at the waist line
almost up to the sewing. A couple of notches should be made above the
waist line in seams which are considerably curved. The edges of the notch
may be curved to aid in the binding. The seams must be dampened (dipping
the fingers in water and passing them over the seam is often better than
to use a wet cloth), and pressed open to see if they lie flat before binding
them. A narrow pressing board and an iron for seams aids in the work.
Binding Seams.—The raw edges of the seam may be finished in several
ways. (1) The dress material and the lining may be overcast together. (2)
The dress material and the lining may be turned in on each other and either
overcast or run together. The seams must be made wider if this means is to
be used than for Nos. 1 and 3. (3) The seams may be bound with a soft
binding ribbon. The ribbon is folded on either side of the raw edges of the
1


BONE CASING. SEAM BINDING
123
seam. In order to accomplish this most easily the ribbon may be creased along
its length so that one side is slightly deeper than the other. It may then be
laid over the raw edges of the seam with the shorter side toward the worker
and both sides may be held by one line of running-stitches. The ribbon should
be held easily around the curves so they will open well
Bone Casings.—Many kinds of bones are used for waists. It is generally
conceded, however, that whalebone is the best, as it is thinner and more flex-
ible than the others. Cased bones can be purchased, but they are not con-
sidered as satisfactory as making the casings and inserting the bones. Bias
binding or strong narrow ribbon bindings are the most desirable. The rib-
bon casing should be eased on all the way and slightly fulled directly above
and below the waist line. The bones are put in usually to about an inch below
the height of the dart. If they are placed too high they will push through.
In order to keep the bone from rubbing through the waist lining a pocket
is made at the top of the casing by turning the ribbon back from % to 1 inch
and overhanding the sides of it. The casing is sewed to the turnings on
either side of the seam below this pocket. The middle of the casing should
come directly over the seam. The ribbon casing is usually hemmed or run
on both sides, the bias casing may be sewed the same way or the herring-bone
stitch may be used across the casing from side to side. This makes an at-
tractive finish. A bias casing does not need to be fulled on. The casing should
be cut long enough to allow for the pocket at the top and for % inch extra
at the other end. The bone is cut a little longer than the place it is to occupy.
The ends should be rounded. After the casing is sewed on, the bone is put
in from the bottom and pushed or sprung in tight into the pocket, the extra y2
bones may be soaked in water and a needle can then easily pierce them, or
holes may be pierced in them with a hot needle before inserting them in the
inch of casing is turned in over the bone and the casing sewed closely to the
seam. The bones also must be fastened to the seam at the end of the pocket
and y2 inch from the bottom of the bone. To provide for this the whale-
bones may be soaked in water and a needle can then easily pierce them, or
holes may be pierced in them with a hot needle before inserting them in the
casing. The bone may be sewed down with fan-shaped stitches at the top of
the casing or a couple of strong stitches to the right and to the left over the
casing and into the turned back material of the seam may be taken just below
the pocket. It must also be sewed down y2 inch from the end of the bone.
In short bodices the end of the bone should come about y2 of an inch from
ing will then be hemmed into place. In a long bodice the bones need not be
carried far below the waist line.
Practice.—Take two pieces of dress material 4x2y 2 inches and line them
with waist lining. Lay the cloth sides exactly together. Crease a vertical
line through the four thicknesses y2 an inch in from the right hand side.
Crease another line, at right angles to the first, 1 inch from the bottom to
indicate the waist line. Measure % of an inch in from the intersection of
these lines and make a curved line from the bottom to the top of the vertical
crease passing through the y8 of an inch point on the waist line. This line
represents the curved seam in a waist. Stitch the pieces together in a seam
along the curved line. Either the hand or the machine may be used. Trim
the edges to y2 an inch from the seam. Make a notch at the waist-line to
within y% of an inch of the seam and two other notches about 1 inch apart,
above the first. Round off the edges. Press open the seams and bind the raw


124
A SEWING COURSE
edges according to the rule. In putting the bone casing down the seam allow
for a pocket of % of an inch at the top and y2 an inch at the bottom. Let
the bone end Vi of an inch from the end of the seam. Cut the bone 3%
inches in length. Finish all according to the rule.
No. 62. SLIP STITCHING.
MATERIALS FOB PRACTICE.
Cashmere, Silk A. Needle, No. 10
5x3 Inches. (To match cashmere.)
Application.—In neckwear, trimming for hats, or folds on dresses.
Use.—In dressmaking and millinery to hold two edges of cloth together;
to hold down a hem where the hemming-stitch would show too much, or to
fasten on trimming such as bias bands, cording and folds.
Fitness.—The stitch is almost invisible and is well adapted to dressmaking and to millinery.
There are many forms of the stitch adapted to various requirements.
Rule.—The form of the stitch is like the running-stitch (Fig. 50). It
will hold material securely and yet be almost invisible on the right side. The
material or the hems to be slip-stitched down must be carefully prepared and
basted in place. The thread must be securely fastened. The stitch is made
on the wrong side of the material well under the edge of the fold. The fold
is turned back a little with the finger and a long running stitch is taken
through the fold and then into the material catching but a couple of threads
and not going through to the right side of the cloth. It continues with a long
stitch in the fold and an almost in-
visible one in the material. To fold
and slip-stitch both sides of a long
bias or straight piece in order to
make trimming, first turn the raw
edge of the upper side toward you,
and second, turn the edge of the
Fig. 50. —Slip-Stitching. lower side away from you in a
small fold and again in a deeper
fold, which will almost cover the one on the upper side of the strip. All raw
edges will thus be concealed and the lower fold will overlap the upper. Slip-
stitch one fold down on the other and use the same stitch to sew the folds to
the garment. In millinery the stitch may be drawn in such a way that the
fold may be fitted into a place, yet the material will not look wrinkled. Fine
needles are used in slip-stitching. The work requires practice and neatness of
touch.
The same form of slip-stitch is sometimes used combined with a backstitch,
where a fold is to be held on the outside of a gown. The stitch is taken on the
right side of the material well in as well as under the fold so it will not show,
but a good hold is taken in the material under the fold. This form is apt to
draw the material.
Another form of the stitch is called slip-hemming. It is used to hold the
raw edge of a fold to the material when the double fold used in hemming
would show through. It is more used in millinery than in dressmaking. The
edge of the material is folded over once. A stitch is taken, resembling the


SLIP STITCHING
125
herring-bone, but is made from right to left and does not have the crosses. The
stitch is like a running stitch. It is first taken in the fold above the raw edge
and then below in the material, but in the latter a very small hold is taken, so
it will not show on the right side of the cloth.
Practice.—Take a piece of cashmere 5x3 inches. Turn a hem of % an
inch along one long edge. The first turn of the hem must be about % of an
inch, baste this down *4 of an inch from the edge of the fold when turning
the Yo inch hem. Slip-stitch the hem to the cashmere under the edge of the
fold according to the rule.


PRICES OF MATERIALS
127
Width or Size.
Cotton Thread—
Basting No. 16-50
Clarks, O. N. T No. 24-150
Darning
Embroidery, D. M. C No. 16-60
^Emeries
Kindergarten Cards No. 183
Lack—
Torchon
Valenciennes
Insertion
Beading
Linen Cloth—
Damask
Diaper
Laces ..
Linen Thread—
Barbours
Scotch Floss ..
Bodkins
Fine darning (crewel) No. 8
Hammock
Large darning double long No. 6a
Mil ward Bharp No. 5-12
Tapestry .No. 17-21
Colored 8x6
Drafting
Engine 6x6
8heets 20x24
Striped tissue 30x20
Pincushions
Rulers
Scissors—
Blunt 4-inch
Button-hole
Sharp points 5-inch
Shears
Paper shears
Silk—
China 24-27
Crepe de Chine 24-36
Foulard 27-36
Gros grain 24-36
in.
it
Price.
.24 doc
.62"
.24"
.15"
.50"
.25 pkg. 100
in.
.12 yard
... %
ii
.25 piece
.. %
ii
.25"
• • Va
ii
.25"
25-37
ii
M-
1.00 yard
ii
.40-
1.50"
ii
.50"
ii
.10-
.36"
ii
.75- 3.00"
. 24
n
.50-
.75"
..%-2
ii
.10-
.75"
18-36
ii
.25-
2.00"
18-36
ii
.25-
1.00"
.10 spool
.25 hank
.10 per paper
.45 dor."
1.00"
.10 per paper .
.45 doz. papers
.45""
.25 100 sheets
10.00 large roll
.25 100 sheets
.04 sheet
1.75 ream
.50 dozen
.50"
1.60"
2.00-4.50"
3.20"
5.60-9.00"
1.25 pair
.50- 1.00 yard
1.00 yard up
.50" *'
1.00""


SUGGESTIVE LIST OF DOMESTIC ART BOOKS
133
THE PROBLEM OP INDUSTRIAL EDU-
CATION: C. R. Richards. Manual
Training Magazine, Vol. 8, April, 1907.
THE TREND IN AMERICAN EDUCA-
TION. James E. Russell. Educational
Review, Vol. 32, June, 1906.
THE URGENT NEED OP TRADE
SCHOOLS. Frank A. Vanderlip.
World's Work, Vol. 12, June, 1906.
FOURTH ANNUAL REPORT OF THE
BUREAU OF STATISTICS OF
LABOR OF THE STATE OF N. Y.,
1886. Apprenticeship. Albany, 1887.
VOL. 7, RELATIONS AND CONDITIONS
OF CAPITAL AND LABOR employed
in the Manufactories of General Busi-
ness. Industrial Commission, Report
of the U. S. Washington, 1901.
EDUCATION AND INDUSTRY IN THE
UNITED STATES. Special Reports
on Educational Subjects. H. T. Mark.
Education Department, Vol. II, 1902,
Part 2. Eyre & Spottiswoode, London.
REPORT OF MASSACHUSETTS COM-
MISSION ON INDUSTRIAL AND
TECHNICAL EDUCATION. Boston,
1906. Reprinted by Teachers College.
REPORT OF THE MOSELEY EDUCA-
TIONAL COMMISSION. Co-operative
Printing Society, London, 1904.
TRADE AND TECHNICAL EDUCATION,
17th Annual Report of the U. S. Com-
missioner of Labor. Washington, 1902.
THE ORGANIZATION OF TRADE
SCHOOLS; from the Point of View of
a Trade School Director. Proceedings
of the National Educational Associa-
tion, 1903. Reprinted in the Proceed-
ings of the Society for the Promotion
of Engineering Education, Vol. H,
A. L. Wiliston, 1903.
THE BASIS OF AN EFFICIENT EDUCA-
TION—CULTURE OR VOCATION.
Robert A. Woods. The School Review,
Vol. 15, May, 1907.
THE MANHATTAN TRADE SCHOOL
FOR GIRLS. Mary S. Woolman. Ed-
ucational Review, Vol. 30, September,
1905.
TRADE SCHOOLS—AN EDUCATIONAL
AND INDUSTRIAL NECESSITY.
Mary S. Woolman. The Social Educa-
tion Quarterly. Vol. I, March, 1907.
INDUSTRIAL EDUCATION IN PUBLIC
SCHOOLS. J. Ernst G. Yalden.
American Machinist, Vol. 30, April 18,
1907.
BULLETINS OF NATIONAL SOCIETY
FOR PROMOTING INDUSTRIAL
EDUCATION. New York City.
WORKING WITH THE HANDS. B.
Washington. Doubleday, 1909.
TECHNICAL EDUCATION FOR GIRLS
AT HOME AND ABROAD. Macmil
lan.
XI. SOCIAL AND INDUSTRIAL LIFE.
INDUSTRIAL EVOLUTION OF THE
UNITED STATES. Wright. Chau
tauqua Press, 1895. INDUSTRIAL HISTORY OF THE UNIT-
ED STATES. Coman. Macmillan,
1905.
GENERAL HISTORY OF COMMERCE. Webster. Ginn, 1903.
SOCIAL CONTROL. Ross. Macmillan, 1901.
THE LEAVEN IN A GREAT CITY. Lil-
lian W. Betts. Dodd, 1902.
AMERICAN MUNICIPAL PROGRESS.
Zeublin. Macmillan, 1897.
NEW YORK POLITICAL PRIMER. Adele
M. Field. Macmillan, 1897.
DEMOCRACY AND SOCIAL ETHICS.
Jane Addams. Macmillan, 1902.
THE LEVEL OF SOCIAL MOTION.
Lane. Macmillan, 1902.
THE THEORY OF THE LEISURE CLASS.
Veblen. Macmillan, 1897.
EVOLUTION OF INDUSTRIAL SOC-
IETY. Ely. Macmillan, 1903.
EVOLUTION OF INDUSTRY. Dyer.
Macmillan, 1895.
NEW BASIS OF CIVILIZATION. Patten. Macmillan, 1907.
OUT OF WORK. Frances Keller. Put-
nam, 1904.
PROFIT SHARING BETWEEN EM-
PLOYER AND EMPLOYEE. Nich-
olas Gilman. Houghton, 1889.
THE EDUCATION OF THE WAGE
EARNER. Davidson. Ginn, 1904.
SOME ETHICAL PHASES OF THE
LABOR QUESTION. Carroll D.
Wright. Am. Unitarian Association,
1902.
SOCIOLOGY. Spencer. Appleton, 1896.
WOMAN IN THE PAST, PRESENT AND
FUTURE. Bebel.
LES PROFESSIONS ACCESSIBLES AUX
FEMMES. DEMOCRACY AND EMPIRE. Giddings.
Macmillan, 1900. WOMEN WAGE EARNERS. Helen Camp-
bell, 1887. WOMAN'S WORK IN AMERICA. Meyer.
Holt, 1891.
HISTORY OF TRADE UNIONISM. Webb.
Longmans, 1902.
EDUCATION AND PROFESSIONS. The
Woman's Library, Vol I, 1903. Dut- ton.


136
A SEWING COURSE
holder (denim with coarse stitch); mop; cord work for
hangers for various purposes; crochetted (chain) horse-
lines and curtain holders.
IL As related to school.
Articles: desk cloth; burlap bag for desk (design freehand);
paint cloth.
III. As related to industrial life. Beginnings of industry and com-
munity life.
Activities: farms and occupations on sand trays. Sheep:
the life; the preparation of wool; washing, carding, dye-
ing, spinning, weaving.
The loom: very simple rag carpet.
Clothing: considerations of use of wooL
Farm hats of raffia.
Baskets for carrying.
IV. Christmas gifts, using handwork already learned.
GRADE SECOND.
Boys and girls work together.
Aim and various activities as in first grade.
DOMESTIC ART OCCUPATIONS.
I. As related to home. The play spirit of childhood utilized.
Bedroom: the bed, made of wood and cord; mattress; cover-
ings; sheets; blankets.
Kitchen: kettle holder; wash cloth (crochetted).
Wash day: clothespins bags; iron holders; reel of wood.
Dining room: the table; the pad; napkins; rings; cloth—
fringed and overcast.
II. As related to industrial life.
The flax: planted, grown, harvested.
Cotton and flax compared. Cloth bleached and dyed.
III. As related to community life.
Village making on a sand tray; home industries and life
represented. American Indian, Eskimo, African.
GRADE THIRD.
Boys and girls work together.
AIM:—Usefulness and interdependence on each other. Boys and girls
work together, but often at different points of the industry, as in
real life.
General handwork of many kinds, but much interrelated to show
community life.


APPENDIX A
139
II. Industrial life in form of discussions: healthful and good cloth-
ing; study of materials; inventors who changed the world
through textile ideas—Whitney, Arkwright, Hargreaves.
Crompton.
GRADE SEVENTH.
This grade gives its handwork time principally to cookery, conse-
quently the domestic art hours are shorter.
AIM. The trustworthy housekeeper.
DOMESTIC ART OCCUPATIONS. Handwork and the sewing machine.
I. As related to home.
Activities: broom cover; napkins; towels; baby wrapper.
Cooking connection: jelly bag and cooking apron.
Crochetting: slippers and coarse lace.
Personal: simplest underwaist without seams; use of pat-
terns.
Embroidery: simple decorative stitches for baby wrapper,
underwaist or marking towels.
II. As related to industrial life.
Economical buying and cutting of material; cost of garments.
The life and needs of the working girl. Economy through
repairs.
GRADE EIGHTH.
Cooking is emphasized in this grade, so sewing has only the minimum
of time.
AIM. The useful, trustworthy, thinking girl.
DOMESTIC ART OCCUPATIONS.
Cooking: tray cover; napkin; hemstitched towel, and table linen.
Home: baby dress.
Personal use: chemise; drawers; or white skirt.
As related to industrial life.
The home and its management. The relation of the girl to
home and to business life.