ALBERT R. MANN LIBRARY New York State Colleges of AGRICULTURE and Home Economics CoRNell UNiversity THE PROBLEM CF SEAM STRENGTH AND THREAD DURABILITY INTRODUCTION The Clothing Manufacturers Association of the United States of America has prepared this Production Research Report with the cooperation of Singer Sewing Machine Company, the in on Special Sewing Machine Company, and the American Thread Company. The Report is based upon data supplied by these companies, and the practical experience of prominent factory managers in our Industry. This Report details and analyzes the problems that are encountered in the clothing factory on matters referring to thread strength, the durability of seams, and the proper needles that might well be used so as to acquire a maximum of seam strength With a minimum of possible damage to the fabric. The problem of proper sewing has become increasingly important to all in view of the many new man-made fabrics being introduced in clothing. This Report is one of a series that is being prepared for the benefit of the Clothing Industry in order to increase productive efficiency in all phases of manufacturing men's and boys' clothing. Harry A. Cobrin Executive Secretary Page – l Which is most evident when the garment is being sewn. Now, the initial strength or pull of the seam is easy to determine in the Shop from practical experience during the sewing process, but seam durability can only be tested When the consumer has worn the garment for considerable time. The problem of stitched seams has always been a matter of great consideration to the manufacturers in the Men's and Boys' Clothing Industry, but today it is of greater importance than ever before. As new fabrics are daily introduced into the Clothing In- dustry and as these fabrics contain new fibers with new finishes, the problem of proper seams becomes complex and complicated. The old standards and methods that were of practical use when men's and boys' clothing were made of only the standard wool fabrics must necessarily now be reconsidered in view of the changing times; and this Report endeavors to show how these new problems may be met in the average clothing plant in view of new fabric finishes, new synthetic fabrics, and new synthetic sewing threads. THE NEW FABRIC FTNTSHES One of the prime causes for this reconsideration of Seam strength and durability, is the large variety of new fabric fin- ishes which have increased in great numbers in recent years. It can be truly said that in the past few years, the textile industry has been revolutionized by the introduction of these new finishes. We now have finishes to increase strength, to repel water, to re- sist Wrinkling, shrinking, flame soiling and mildew. This trend toward new finishes has been helped by extensive advertising cam- *- Page – 3 SOME ATTACHMENTS FOR OVERCOM ING NEED LE HEAT IN SEW ING Fig. 10 — Needle Cooler body Fig. 11 – Needle Cooler nozzle Fig. 12 — Needle lubricafor Fig. 13 — Thread lubricators cº- -: !-- *i;"