SCHLESINGER LIBRARY RS MCZX S Tec 7488.15 EAST WEST HAME'S BEST: ullam BA JAAR REVERITA YA RADCLIFFE COLLEGE LIBRARY WOMEN'S ARCHIVES Transferred from HARVARD COLLEGE LIBRARY 1960 Harvard College Library RECEIVED BY BEQUEST SEPTEMBER 20, 1926 este l e et nniamaininin, S MUNTHA httU1VIOUTUd communitin Sce amsauer R :12. 1 PEL une Engraved by Code thom a Driving by Bolinar Sonj Smstule ule? London, Published for the futher by Ebers, C Bond Streer more Bee, Pia Bonaire tenda hilang daittom French Cook; OR, THE ART OF COOKERY DEVELOPED IN ALL ITS VARIOUS BRANCHES. BY LOUIS EUSTACHE UDE, FORMERLY COOK TO LOUIS XVI. KING OF FRANCE, AND AT PRESENT COOK TO THE RIGHT HON. BARL OF SEFTON. THIRD EDITION. LONDON: Printed for the AUTHOR, and sold by J. EBERS, 27, Old Bond Street; and may be had of all the Booksellers in the United Kingdom. 1815. Tec '1488. 15 HARVARD COLLEGE LIBRARY , 4. th BEQUEST OF MRS. CHESTER N, GREENOUGH SEPTEMBER 20, 1926 ... [Entered at Stationers'-Hall.] k Vault 641.64 U19 Printed by Cox and Baylis, 79, Oreat Queen-Sueet, Lincoln's-Inn-Fields PREFACE. Soon after my arrival in this country, I thought of publishing a work, which might prove of great utility to such, amongst others, as although possessed of real knowledge, yet might not unfrequently be at a loss, from mere want of memory. The works hitherto pub- lished on the Art of Cookery are uninte!- ligible, and the receipts therein indicated in practicable. Martialo, an Italian by birth, as may be known at once by his name, was a famous Cook in his time: but were he to make his appearance now, he would cut a very poor figure. His book dis- plays nothing besides costly dishes, bad pre- cepts, and worse taste. Several works have appeared since under various denominations ; but seldom from the pen of professional Cooks. The Art of Cookery is a science appreciated only by very few individuals; and which re- quires, besides a great deal of studious applica- tion, no small share of intellect, and the strictest UC sobriety and punctuality, to be brought to per- fection. In England, the few assistants that a head Cook is allowed in a family, and the num- ber of dishes he has to prepare, often deprive him of an opportunity of displaying his abilities ; nay, after ten years of the utmost 'exertion to bring his Art to perfection, he ranks no higher than an humble domestici If I should be so fortunate as to succeed in my attempt, I hope to produce a more easy method than has hitherto been pointed out. I shall first treat of bouillons, consommés, sauces, &c. which are the basis of Cookery. Next, beginning with beef, as the most common, yet the most indispensible article for the corps de bouillons, I shall explain all the diffe- rent purposes that beef will answer ; for re- levés, entrées, terrines : I shall then proceed to treat of veal; and subsequently of every other kind of materials. very 4. Beef. Veal. I Mutton. Lamb. 1. Pork. Fouls. Fat Pullets. 1. 2. 3. Entrées. Terrines. Relevés. Hors d'Euvres. Do do do do Do do do do 5. Do do do do Rót. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Entrées., Relevés. Ilors d'Ouvres. Do do do Rót. Salades. Do do do do do Common Fowl. Entrées; the fillets only are made use of. Pigeons. Entrées. Rót. Partridges. . Do do Salades. Woodcock. Do do Snipe. Do do Quails. · Do do Larks. Do do Plovers. Do do Turkeys. Relevés. Geese. do Ducks. Wild Duck. Hare. Rabbits. Fish. Do do Do do Do do Do do Do do (en maigre) Relevés. · When I shall have explained the manner of dressing the entrées, relevés, &c. I shall refer for the proper sauce to the chapter of sauces, wherein they will all, or nearly all be explained, pursuant to the method practised in Paris, or at Versailles, in the kitchens of the Royal Family. I intend, moreover, to indicate the manner of making them, which I have contrived since I have been in England, from which I have derived expedition, economy, and I may make bold to affirm, great improvement in point of savour. -- This work, notwithstanding the utility it might be of in Paris, is more particularly in- . tended for England. I shall introduce not only such apple-sauce, bread-sauce, &c. sauces for fish a 2 . iv as are not known in France, but also the manner of dressing fish en maigre, for those persons who are Roman Catholics. Those vegetables that are used as garnish to the entrées, and relevés, will be found among the sauces; and those that are intended for entremets in their proper place, when mention will be made of the proper time of the year to send them up to table. The entremets sucrés such as Suédoise, Char- lotte, pommes au ris, chartreuse de fruit, pan- nequet, beignets, soufflés, poudings, mirotons de pommes, croquettes de ris, croquettes de pomme de terre, &c. &c. &c. and in general what is not the department of the pastry-cook, will be men- tioned in the chapter of entremets sucrés, toge- ther with the creams. The jellies for both summer and winter, will be treated of in a particular chapter. • Pastry will be treated of under a distinct head; so that such persons as should have a grand dinner to serve up every day, would seldom send up to table the same articles by following the method which I shall prescribe. Suppose there are eight persons at dinner. You cannot send up less than four entrées, a soup, and a fish. Now as a remove to the two latter, you must have two removes, viz. Un av two dishes of rốt. Next four entremets, and if you should think proper two removes of rốt. You make your bill of fare, chusing out of each chapter whatever you may want, namely, a soup, a fish, two removes, four entrées ; by which must be understood one arti.. cle out of the chapter that relates to “ mut. ton or lamb;" one out of the article “ veal," two at that of " poulets grus," with this pro- viso, however, that no two entrées are to be alike either in shape, colour, or taste. For the second course you inust act upon the same principle. . The rớts will be found in the chapter of rôts, and according to the particular season of the year : neither must they bear any resem- ' blance with each other. With regard to the entremets, in summer time you will select two amongst the vegetables, one amongst the jellies and the other out of the chapter patisserie (pastry), as for instance : BILL OF PARE FOR A DINNER OF FOUR ENTRÉES IN SUMMER TIME, First Course. Le Potage printannier. Les tranches de cabilleau, sauce aux huîtres. 2 Relevés. La poularde à la Montmorencie. Le jambon de Westphalie, à l'essence. a 3 4 Entrées. La fricassée de poulets aux champignons. Les cotelettes d'Agneau sautés, sauce à la Macédoine. Le sauté de filets de poulets gras, au suprême. Les tendrons de veau glacés aux laitues, à l'essence: 2 Dishes de Rốt. Le chapon. Les cailles. 4 Entremets. Les pois à la Francoise, La gelée de fraises. Les asperges en bâtonets. Les puits d'amour garnis de marmalade. 2 Remove of the Róts. La tart de groseilles rouges. Le soufflé au citron. . (Here comes in the first Plate.) ANOTHER BILL OF FARE WITH FOUR ENTRÉES IN SUMMEX TIME. First Course. Le potage à la purée de pois verds. Les tranches de saumon, sauce au homard. 2 Relevés. Les poulets gras à l'écarlate, au velouté. La selle de mouton rôti. 4 Entrées. Les petits pâtés à la béchamelle. Le fricandeau glacé à la purée de céleri. Les paupiettes de filets de solles marbrées à la ravigoite. Les cotelettes de filets de pigeons aux petits pois. First Course, Le Potage Printannier; relevé aver Lu Poularde á la Montmorenci. Prica Sree de Poulets Cotelettes d'agneau nautés, smo la Mandoind сатріупитк Dormant ocedere or) CCOOROU CENTER Stationary Dish. Tandons de Veau SEUS Hlets de Poulets gras sautis, awlaitues álefsence suprema TOS Le Poisson, relevé par le Jambon de Westphalie, á l'Essence 000000 Serond Course. Cailler, relevées avec un Soufflé. Les Petits Pois á la Française Petits puits d'Amour garnis de confitures, Dormant du Milieu. La Jeleé de Grosser aperge, en fraizes framboisér. Roc batonnet. Chapon, relevé avec une Tartes vii 2 Plats de Rớt. Les deux petits canards nouveaux, Le levreau. 4 Entremets. Les artichaux frits. Les choufleurs au velouté. Le pain d'abricots. Les gâteaux à la Manon. From the above statement it will be easy to make a bill of fare of four, six, eight, twelve, or sixteen entrées, and the other courses in propor- tion. For the convenience of those persons who wish to have a bill of fare presented to them ac- cording to the English way, I shall introduce some of from four to sixteen dishes ; observing, in the mean time, that whenever there are more than four entrées, symmetry must always be at- tended to. The two flanks, for à dinner of six entrées must be parallel, that is to say, that if you place petits pdtés on one side, you must have croquettes on the other; if you have a vol au vent on one side, you must place a páté chaud opposite, and so on; a judi- cious arrangement of dishes giving additional merit to a dinner. The second course requires also a different ar- rangement when you have inore than four entrées. ve a 4 viii At the two flanks you must have two dishes of vegetables, if approved of, and at the four cor- ners a jelly, some pastry, a lobster, or sallad, &c. &c. If directed otherwise, you may put two sucrés between the two flanks, two dishes of vegetables, one at each opposite corner, shrimps and a sallad at each other corner. BILL OF FARE FOR NOVEMBER OR DECEMBER, Sir Entrées. First Course, 2 Potages. Le potage à la bonne femme, dit Flamande. White, Le potage à la Beauveau. Brown. 2 Poissons. Le turbot, sauce au homard. Le dorey garni d'éperlans frits. 2 Relevés. Le dindon à la Périgueux, purée de marons. Le cuisseau de porc à demi sel, garni de choux, 6 Entrées. Les cotelettes de mouton à la Soubise. Le salmi de perdreaux à l'Espagnole. Le vol au vent d'escalopes de cabilleau à la crême. La casserole au ris d'un hachi de gibier au fumet. Les escalopes de filets de lapreaux à la conti au truffes. Les cotelettes de filets de poulets gras en épigramme, 2 Plats de Rót, Les becasses. Les perdreaux. -- - - - - - - - - - - - --- -- - - 1 First Course. Soupe á la Bonne Femme, relevée avec le Turbot, relevé avec le Dindon á la Périqueur. Cotelettes Salmi de Mouton de perdreaur á la SA Soubise. l'Espagnole. - Vol au vent این DORMANT Casserolle se na d'Escalopes au ris de d'un hachi du POSmoontes Cabilleau نان ایشان است و این مواد اولیه Gibier - la Creme. MILI E U. u fumez S . SENGA Escalopes de filets de lapreaur, å la conti. Cotelettes de filetes de poulets gras, en Epigramme A Soupe á la Beauveau, relevée avec le Dorey, relevé avec le pore. Second Course. Quatre becafses. La Jelée de vin de Les truffes entieres, | au vin de Champagne dans une semicite Madere, garnie de jelée / . S DORMANT Les Les Épinardos Cardens d'Espagne, du consommé, á la ባሆ moelle, MILIEU. croutone, á l'efsence. OS La Les gateaur 1 á la Polonaise, Sala de garnir de de confitures. deur Homards, Quatre Perdreau.r. ix 6 Entremets. Les épinards au consommé, garnis de croutons. Les cardons d'Espagne, à la moelle à l'essence. Les truffes entières au vin de Champagne,dans une serviette. La salade de homard dressée. La gelée de vin de Madère garnie de gelée hachée. Les gâteaux à la Polonoise. (Here comes in the second Plate.) BILL OF FARE FOR DECEMBER AND JANUARY. 8 Entrées, and 4 relevés, or 10 entrées and 2 relevés. The potages and fish, superseded by the 4 relevés. 2 Potages. Le potage à la reine. La Brunoise au consommé clair. 2 Poissons. Le turbot, garni d'éperlans. La matelotte de carpes à la royale. 2 Relevés des bouts. Les poulardes à la Condé ragoût Le jambon de West- à l'Allemande, phalie à l'Espagnole. 8 Entrées. Les filets de perdreaux sautés à la Lucullus. Les petites timballes d'un salpicon à la Monglas. Les croquettes de filets de volailles au velouté. Les filets mignons de poulets gras à la Pompadour, Italiczne blanchée liée. Les perdreaux à la Barbarie, Italienne aux truffes. Three in number. Les petits poulets à la reine. Aspic liée, pluches de persil. Two of these. Les cotelettes de porc à la Mirepoix, Espagnole. Le carré de veau à la Chalons, haricots vierges. Bill of Farc for January of February. First Course.ro Potage á la crossi; relevé par un Turhet, relevé par une culotte de Bour á la Flamande. Casserolle auris enince de volailles, au veloute Petits Pate's mar huitres. Le Turban de hilets de lapranar l'Espagnole Pintrir ur cheur, dorfires ál Borner.lt Escalopes de filets de Poulardor war Irulis, Filets ale Solles santan vila ravigout blanche VA SE VASE Terrine | Omowu o no O CID omon Omm Terrine de le cuene de Beur en Harricot, 13 S nlevé par ler Merlans frits, relever par Ile Dindon en DORMANT DU MILIEU. relevée par un Brochet au four; relevé par un filet POSSESSEX With Room enough for l’tensils 23 & a Vase at each corner. Chipelata. Van VASE VASE Attelet de ris de Veau,d l'Italienne Cotelettes le filets de Aninaur an firma dair / La Chartreuse tren Salpiau de palais de Bauf, Magnnuk del filets mimenes wepoulets gols ut Allemande. Petits Pités á la Yerk, en timballes, caitres de foies gras, ik Dastidas Potage à l'Allemande: Irelevé par les tranches de cabilleau: relevé par le cuirau de Pore, aur épinards, Second Course. La Poularde, relevé par le Flan Picard. Los ápinan á la crême garnis de croutons. Les navets, en poire de Rougselet. wwwwwwwwwww Les Meringues garmiede Chantilli. Sultane La La Creme mi car. blanche, Jelée de vin d'Espagned VASE I VASE Lopreme gererne, DORMANT du MILIEU, Perdrer O OD 0 SONBLOUS relevés OCESSERURBANA relevéer par des (Four Vases &c as before ) par des Fondues. Fondues. VAS (VASE Le Mromage à [Italienne á la glace. Ta créme au chocolat en Petits Pots. Les Petis Lozenges, garniade 2 confiturae Le Buijson de benévoix en gimblettes Las Sabilita frits, Les Eufis pochée, a la chiconde genuis de Les Canetons, u velouté, perriz, relevés .. par Talmouses. i Bill of Fare for January 8 February. First ('ourse. " Potage à la cressi; relevé par un Turbet, relevé par une culotte de Baur á la Flamande. Caserolle Petits Pati's auris emina de volailles, ou veloute, huitrer. Le Turian de filets de lapraurá l'Espugnelt Pretria aur chour, drofores l'Esrnce. Escaloper de filets de Poulardes) laur Irules Hlets de Soller santan lila ravigotte blanche, VASE VASE Terrine DORMANT DU MILIEU. Terrine de all queue de Beur I en Harricot, relevé par ler Merlans frits, relevés par le Dindon en O OD O relevée par un Brochet au four With Room enough for Utensils relevé par un filet ka Vase at cach corner. Chipolata, Veau Roti, - VASE VASE --- - Auelets - de ris de Veau,d (Tahenne Cotelettes de filets de Antreaur an viime dair - -- - - LaChartreu San Salpian de palais de Bauf Alagnuk del filet mignon Telepuletsgow Nur Allemande, --- CARPACCA Petits Pites i la Vesle, en timballes, Petitor faitses de foier gras, Vikthyleellas Potage à l'Allemande: relevé par les trunches de Cahilleau: 12 relevé par le cuijseau de Pore, aur épinards. ----- ---- - Second Course. La Poularde, relevé par le Awapirard á la crema, garnis de croutons, Flan Picard. www.concernando Les navets, en poire de Rogselet. Les La Méringues garnies de Chantilli, Sultane La Crime ou catre, blanche, La Jelée de vin d'Espagned VASE TVASE Lapremier Les garenne, DORMANT du MILIEU, Perdreour gewSPOS relevés relevées par des (Four Vases &c as before ) par des Fonduer. O ODO Fondues. VASE VASE Le Fromage à l'Itahane a la glace. La onime au chocolat en Petits Potr. Les Petis IF Lozenges, garnierde confiture Le Buiſson de benévoirean gimblettes Les Eufry Anne les brinits frits, garrus de perriz, pochée, lála chicorée cu velouté. Les Canetons, relevés par les Talmouses. xi 4 Relevés de Poissons. Le filet de veau rôti. Le dindon rôti, chipolata. La culotte de beuf à la flamande. Le cuisseau de porc braizé, aux épinards. 12 Entrées. Les petites casserolettes au ris, émincé de poulard. Le turban de filets de lapreaux à l'Espagnole. Les escalopes de filets de poulardes aux truffes. Les filets de solles sautés à la ravigotte. Les petits pâtés à la Nesle, en timballes. Les perdrix aux choux, dressées à l'essence. Les petites caisses de foie gras à la Dusselle, La grenade de filets mignons de poulets gras, à l'Allemande, Les cotelettes de filets de perdreaux au fumet. Les attelets de ris de veau à l'Italienne. Les petits pâtés aux huîtres vertes à la Sefton. La chartreuse d'un salpicon de palais de boeuf. SECOND COURSE. 4 Plats de Rót. La poularde au cresson. Le caneton. Les lapreaux. Les bécasses. 12 Entremets. Les épinards à la crême. La crême au caffé, blanche. La sultane, dans un vol au vent. Les petites lozenges garnies de confitures. La gelée de vin d'Espagne. Les salsifis frits. Les navets glacés, en poires de rousselet. La crême au chocolat. Les meringues, garnies de chantilli. Le buisson melé de Genêvoise en gimblettes. Le fromage à l'Italienne, au marasquin. La chicorée à la crême, et des aufs pochés. 4 Relevés de Rót. 2 Plats de fondae. - 1 De talmouses. I Flanc picard. I have not brought forward four potages in the above bill of fare; because the choice of articles rests with the cook himself, who may serve up a good dinner without adhering to the very same dishes I have selected, or rather men- tioned, as it were at random, in the said bill of fare, or any other under-mentioned. Yet I think it would be useless to go beyond sixteen entrées; for the multiplicity of dishes may easily be made out. I shall only observe that with twenty entrées the counter-Aanks must exhibit copious entrées ; and that for the second course, must be introduced what we call moyens d'en- tremets, such as brioches, gateaux de compiegne, babas, and two articles erected according to the fancy of the pastry-cook. Eight large pieces are not requisite when there are only twenty entrées ; but if you have to send up four and twenty, and of course thirty-two entrées, those huge pieces then are indispensible. Whenever a dinner consists of more than eight entrées, it is impossible for any cook, to dress them without ，，--- .- -- ， , ༩ -- ་ བ ་ Bill of Fare for December or January First Course. 10 Potage á la Reine, relevé d'une longe de Veau, en Surprise. Filets de Perdreau.r, Petites limballer din Salpicon á la Monglas ála Lucubus. Trois Pentredu.r i la Barbarie, Italienne. (am de Veau á la Chilons, Harrioots, Vierges. Turbot DORMANT Watclette á la garni d'éperlans, releve de deur Royale, relevée d'um Jamben du Poulardee de Westphalie Condé. A MILIEU. l'Espagnole Taur Pouleto á la Reine, Aspic lice, & pluche Coteletter de porc á la Mirepoir, á l'Espagnole de persil. Filet mignons de Poulas gras á lalompidour Italienne. Intites croquettes de filete de Volailler,aut Velouté. Potage á la Brunois, relevé d'une selle de Mouton. Second Course, Becassines, relevées d'un Soufflé á la fleur d'Orange. Salcifis, Maccaroni Ja l'Italienne garnis de patisserie. luce blanche Darielles Jelée á la de vin de Créme. Madere, DORMANT Deur Liévre, Poulets gras, du relevé Seca un piqué avec des HOCHDOMI relevés avec fondues. des ramequins! MILIEU. Pain de Canapé, Framboises, garni de á la Glase, Marmelade Euknedllis and bulles garnis de croutons de pain frits. Pommes de teme e la 3 litre d'Hotel coupées erbianto 13 Sarcelles, relevées par les Biscuitor á la Créme. xiii assistants, unless he sends up to table very com- mon dishes. (Here comes in the last Plate.) A DINNER OF SIXTEEN Entrées, AND EIGHT LARGE JOINTS, FOR JULY AND AUGUST. 4 Potages. 4 Poissons. Les nouilles au consommé lié. | Le turbot garni d'éperlans frits sauce au homard. La Julienne. | La truîte saumonés à la Ge- nêvoise. Le ris à la purée de navets. L'esturgeon à la broche, poia vrade d'esturgeon. La jardinière au bouillon cla- | Les tranches de cabilleau, rifié. sauce aux huîtres. 4 Relevés de Potages. L'alloyau à la godard, garni | Le rost-bif d'agneau piqué à d'innocents. . la broche. La longe de veau à la crême, | La selle de mouton rôtie, ou la blanquette. venaison. - 4 Relevés de Poissons. Le chapon à la villeroi, ragoût | Le páté chaud de légumes. à la royale. Le jambon braizé aux petites | La poularde à la crême, garni fêves de marais. de témoins. 16 Entrées. Le pâté chaud à la financière. Les boudins à la reine, au velouté. Les cotelettes d'agneau à la maréchale, Italienne. Le sauté de filets de poulets à l'écarlate, au suprême. Les escalopes de la preaux, aux petits pois. Les grenadins de veau à la Macédoine. Les filets de solles à la Orlie, poivrade liée. Les petites bouchées de filets de vollaille à la béchamelle. Les petits pâtés à la Mazarine. xiv Les rissoles d'une farce fine de lapreaux. Les ris de veau à la Dauphine, à la chicorée. Les filets de maquereaux à la maître d'hôtel à la crême. La blanquette de filets de poulardes, aux concombres. Les paupiettes de palais de boeuf au gratin. Les boudins de lapreau à la Dreux. Le vol au vent de petites quenelles au velouté. 8 Plats de Rót., Le chapon au cresson. Les poulets gras, un piqué. Les pigeons de volière. Les cailles bardées avec des feuilles de vigne. Les canards nouveaux. L'oye nouvelle. Les lapreaux de garenne. Les dindoneaux, sauce au pauvre homme. 16 Entremets. Les petits pois à la Parisienne. Les artichaux à la Barigoule. La gelée de fraises framboisées. Le pain d'abricots à la glace. La salade de volaille, à l'Italienne. Les crevettes en buisson. Les petites cocardes garnies de confitures. Les haricots verds à la poulette. Le miroton de pêches, au vin de Madère. Le fromage à l'Italienne, décoré, La mayonaise, dans un moule à aspic. Les homards dressés et cassés. Les pains à la duchesse. Les gâteaux à la Madeleine. . . 8 Relevés des Róts. 2 Plats de fondues. 2 Plats de raméquins. 2 Plats de biscuits à la crême. 2 Plats de souffe, au citron, ou 2 tartes de fruit nou- veau, dameson, &c. | Bil of Eure for First Course, July ( Awoust. Potage aur nouilles, relevé par L'Allorau á la Godard, hlawa de punelles heuehely nolak bow.coccodici kamar Millo der Aine dhe Papa rité Proid de fainints, Init Aniring d'une peutende Vila crime Trumchis de mbilkum. merci urle pato cha kligumos truffes. Page the de Pakaia de Marul a gritin 1 NO Waldende nas Potage e la Jardinien relevé une la Sellede Mouton rotie, cu une honela de Vanaison DORMANT -(((du) MILIEU, o de la 2 Potage dla la Julienne relevedra Rogul Best d'Agneau B piqué sur les filets Burles dan cuifsas TABLE, kami Jla Det Le Petice ilmu Lariak rasteter Turbot, relevé d'un chapon á la villoroi Páte de Poularde, Estungeon nkve are le amkn,mrineus demurais, Jambon. Larinted Les Drudin dla Rin du det roklin he páré chend Petin Paris Tiranridny Mazury Potage im ris, relevé par une longe de Venu á la crémr. wowowowowo The Potages at the extremeties &on the flanks & the Poiſsons on the counterflanks. Jeder felper хү : I have not mentioned the second course for the above dinner; as it is known that there are to be the same number of dishes, as in the first course. There must also be two plats de rót at the extremities, two on the flanks, and the petits róts at the counter tanks. If you have assistants enough to make some pièces montées, they are to be placed on the counter-flanks. I have added two pátés froids, which are like- wise served at grand dinners. I like them to be sent up to table with the first course, and there to remain during the second. Numbers of peo- ple like these pátés froids ; but if they were not served up with the first course, their appe- tite being gone, they could not eat of them. They are not at all in the way, but improve the look of the table. N.B.—The pátés may be either of game or fowl. In France, between the dormant (centre sta- tionary dish) and the entrées, it is customary to place hors-d'ouvres, viz. sallads of ancho- vies, canapés, sallad dishes filled with lemons, bitter oranges, butter, radishes, turnip radishes, of figs in autumn, what we call hors-d'ouvres de cuisine, such as saucisses, boudins, &c. &c. which indeed give a good appearance to a table. In England it is not customary to serve hors- d'auvres, as in very few houses, they keep a xvi confectioner, and that the hors-d'æuvres belong to his department. : Military tactics, fortification, music, dancing, and millinery, &c. being of foreign extraction, most of the words relative to the said arts or sciences have necessarily retained their original appellation. It must not be wondered at, there- fore, if in this work I have made use of the original, or native expressions. The name of the various dishes is a matter of course, which requires no more explanation, than roast beef, or plum pudding, welsh-rabbit, or muffins, &c. in France. Marquer, masquer, sauter, &c. &c. have a particular meaning, but are such technical words as cannot be translated properly, for which reason they will frequently be met with. Suffice it to say that, Marquer signifies to put in a stew-pan or sauté pan, whichever you use. Sauter, is when you put the sauté pan on the stove with the contents. Masqué, is when you are to put the sauce over the meat, &c. Ice CONTENTS . . Consommés. :::::::::: CHAP. I. SAUCES, BROTHS, Le grand bouillon Grand' consommé.." Consommé of poultry of game... - - of rabbits Blond de veau .. Jus de beuf ... L'aspic clair '.. Jelée de viande, for pies.. Le svage, or l'empotage .. Le jus clair. .. Le consommé clarifié .. Le bouillon de santé Roux blanc . ... Roux blond .. Le coulis .. . Grande Espagnole Espagnole de gibier Sauce tournée .. à l'Allemande Le velouté L'Italienne blanche - rousse.. . .. ::::::::: ::::::::::::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::::::::::: ::::::::::::: xvii. Page :: :: :::::::::::: .::::::::::::::: .:::::::::::: :::: La sauce hachée i. La poivrade blanche brune L'aspic lié La ravigotte . La maître d'hôtel grasse .. maigre.. Sauce à l'estragon, ou pluche La bourguignotte.. .. Le bon beurre .. La béchamelle grasse maigre .. La Génoise. .. .. Sauce à matelotte, for fish .. for entrées .. Sauce aux pommes for geese and roasted pork.. Purée d'oseille .. . Oseille en maigre.. . Purée de céleri .. d'oignons blancs, ou soubise bruns, et lyonaise Purée d'baricots blancs, maigre et grasse de champignons, brune et blanche de pois verds, nouveaux et secs .. de marons ... Les nouilles ! La macédoine .. Sauce d'attelets . La sauce d'esturgeon Sauce cardinale .. de homard ... - à la Lucullus Velouté, a new method .. ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ::::::::: :::::::::: ::::::::::::::::: . :. xix Page ::: :::::::::::@ Rémoulade ordinaire, et rémoulade verte Mayonnaise ..., Sauce aux aufs ... Verd d'épinards .. de persil .. Sauce à la Pompadour La dusselle.. .. Les pointes d'asperges L'haricot brun .. vierge i Hollandoise verte.. . maigre et jaune La sauce au beurre, dite sauce blanche Ragoût à la financière .. La godard.. .. La chambord i Sauce de salmi à l'Espagnole Beurre d'écrevisse. .' Le beurre d'anchois La glace .. .. La sauce Robert .. La livernoise Le hochepot La Polonoise Les concombres, or blanquette Essence de concombres .. Les pois au blanc .. .. à l'Espagnole ... au lard .. La sauce au pauvre homme Sauce aux tomates Sauce à la bigarade La sauce au céleri.. ob :: ::::: ::::::::::::::::::::i:::::::::::: ::::::::::::::::::::: :::::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::: is : - Page La pascaline .. Sauce à l'aurore." La Toulouse La waster-fish ... La sauce aux huîtres L'Italienne aux truffes La manselle . . Sauce à la maréchale .. Observations relative to the sauceso ::::: :::::: ::::::::: ::::::::: . : : : CHAP. II.--POTAGES AND SOUPS, AND TURRENS THAT ARE SERVED WITH Soups. Potages de santé, or au naturel .. .. au consommé of fowl .. à la Clermont .. à la Julienne ... La Julienne au consommé de volaille Soupe à la Cressi .. Soupe à l'Aurore ... La Brunoise Soupe à l'Allemande à la Condé.. à la Faubonne à la Carmelite Purée de pois verds .. The same made very green Macaroni au consommé .. Lazagnes au consommé .. Potage au ris, or rice soup Ris aux différentes purées Vermicelli soup .. Italian pastes .. Vermicelli à la reine : : :::::::::::::::::::::: .:::::::::::::::::::::: :::::::::::::::: : : : : : : : : : xxi Boillon de navets Potage à la reine : a new method Semouille au consommé.. ... La crême de ris .. . .. La garbure au pain de seigle .. Potage aux choux à la Françoise .. - à l'Allemande .. Soupe à la bonne-femme .. Potage aux nouilles Soupe à la borgosse ? Potage au lait lié.. i d'amande La tortue, turtle soup . Potage printanier .. .... oà la jardinière . en hochepot aux navets Potage en hochepot La tête de veau en tortue .. Polage à la beauveau :::::::::::::::::::; :::::::::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::::::: S . TUREENS THAT ARE SERVED WITH Fricassée de poulets .. Macaroni with Parmesan cheese Giblotte of rabbits Breast of lamb with green pease.. with pease, au blanc Tendrons of veal with pease en haricots vierges Tendrons of veal en chipolata .. en chipolata ag roux .. Les pois au lard .. .. Breast of mutton en haricot .. hochepot.. ::: :::::::::::: :::::::::::: :::: b 3 xxii : Page . ... ulc Pluck of lamb à la pascaline Le civet de liévre.. .. .. .. Ses cuisses d'oie à la purée de pois verds Cuisses d'oies à la choucroute Cuisses d'oie à la choucroute Française .. Giblets of turkey en haricot Pinions of turkey en haricot Membres de volailles aux nouilles Le hachi de volaille à la turque .. Les oeufs à la tripe .. 'Eggs à la crème en surprise .. La morue à la maître d'hôtel .. La queue de beuf en hochepot.. The same en haricot brun .. The same aux petits pois.. i ::::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::: :::::: CHAP. III.-Removes OF THE SOUPS AND FISH, BOTH IN TH: FRENCH AND IN THE ENGLISH War. La culotte, or the rump of beef au naturel .. .. - -, à la Flamande Breast of beef ditto. Aloyau, or surloin à la godard .. L'aloyau roasted .. .. A quarter of mutton roasted .. Leg of mutton braizés, otherwise gigot de sept-heures Loin of veal roasted .. . Loin of veal en surprise .. - à la crême.., Calf's head au naturel .. -- sauce aux tomates - bigarée .. -au puits certain ::::::::::::: :::::: :::::::: :::::: en tortue .. : xxiii ::::::: : : :::::::::: : : Calf's head à la Chambord Farmyard turkey à la Montmorenci Turkey sauce au céleri ... - à la Périgueux .. Fowls à la Condé.. .. oà la Montmorenci .. Capons à la Torque .. Westphalia ham à l'essence Ham au vin d'Espagne .. aux fêves de marais Saddle of lamb roasted, or roast beef d'agneau - mutton, or roast beef de mouton .. - faun, or cheyreuil .. .. .. · The haunch of venison .. Le carré of venison, (the best part of the neck) L'oeille .. . . . . Leg of pork .. . .. . . .. Fowls à la Mirepois .. . .. Boiled turkey with oyster sauce .. .. .. : ::: :::::::::::::::::: .. ib. .. 100 .. 101 FISH SENT UP WITH THE SOUPS ;-BUT WHICH IN FRANCE ARB SERVED AS REMOVES OF THE SOUPS. Turbot à l'eau sel .. .. .. 101 Broiled turbot .. ... .. Boiled salmon with lobster sauce.. Tranches de saumon grillées, sauce aux capres .. Salmon, sauce matelotte.. Salmon à la Genevoise .. . Cabilleau, or cod, sauce aux huîtres .. Tranches de cabilleau, or slices of crimp cod Cabilleau à la crême . Le Jobn Dory, sauce au homard , broiled with anchovy sauce ... ::::::::: ::::::::::: b 4 XXIV ::::::::::: Les solles frites et bouillies Broiled soles .. Fried whitings à l'Angloise à la Françoise Boiled whitings.. Mackarel à l'Angloise Broiled mackarel .. Boiled baddocks .. . Skate with shrimp sauce .. Boiled pike, sauce Hollandoise Baked pike, à l'Angloise“.. Pike à la Genevoise o Polonoise . Chainbord . Pike au court bouillon ... Court bouillon for fish au bleu Trout à la Genevoise Roasted sturgeon ... Baked sturgeon .. Sturgeon à l'eau ...' Carp, au bleu, without sauce - , farci au four , sauce à matelotte ... Broiled carp with caper sauce Caper sauce for fish Tench . . . . . . . . . . " Perch '.. .. .. .. . - CHAP. IV.-FARCES, OR Forced MBAT. Quenelles de veau Panades for farces in general ..... .. .. ib. Quenelles de volailles .. .. .. .. .. 117 de lapreaux .. 118 :::::::::::::::::::::::::. ::::::::::::::::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::::::::::::::: .. 115 : XXV Page Quenelles de perdreaux ... .. .. .. .. 119 Farce de poularde à la crême .... .. .. .. ib. Farce à gratin de lapreaux, perdreaux, poulets, &c. .. 120 Boudins à la Richelieu - ..... - Sefton .. .. ... 121 Quenelles de merlans .. Farce de carpes, pour les diners en maigre '.. .. — de godiveau, pour les pâtés à la mazarine, &c. .. - marbrée verte - rouge ... à liévre et à Diodon .... .. .. .. ib. - à pâtés . . . .. .. .. ib. à saucisses ,. .. .. .. 125 o CHAP. V.-ENTRÉES de Viande DE BOUCHERIB. Butcher's MEAT. Beef. Blanquette de palais de bæuf. .. .. .. .. 120 Le blanquette de palais de bæuf aux pois , aux concombres -, aux truffes .. Attelets of palates of beef à l'Italienne .. .. Palates of beef an gratin, otherwise en paupiette Le miroton de palais de beuf à la Dreuille Croquettes of palates of beef au velouté.. Beef's tongue, sauce hachée .. Le miroton of tongues aux pavets Le miroton de langue à l'oseille .. aux épinards . _ à l'écarlate aux navets Le langue à l'écarlate bigarée .. Les filets mignons de beuf sautés à la Lyonaise .. Le filet de beuf mariné, à la broche .. ::::::::::::::::: xxvi .. 133 ::: :::: Page La queue de beuf en hochepot .. .. .. Le miroton de beuf. .. .. .. ib. Le rognon de boeuf au vin de champagne .. ib. Beef steaks aux pommes de terre .. ... 134 L'alloyau à la godard .... - rôti ... ... Rump of beef au naturel .. .. (See removes, No. 1.) La culotte à la Flamande. (See ditto, No. 2.).. .. La poitrine au naturel, et à la Flamande. (See ditto, No.3.) .. .. .. .. .. .. 130 La cotte de bæuf braizée en bochepati.. La côté de boeuf grillée, sauce hachée .. .. .. ib. CHAP. VI.-Entrées of MUTTON. Côtelette de mouton à la Soubise .. .. 137 Another method of preparing les côtelettes à la Soubise . 138 Les côtelettes en baricot vierge .. .. .. ib. Côtelettes à la minute .. .. .. 139 l'Italienne .. e en épigramme.. er en haricot brun Les côtelettes sautées à l'essence .. Côželettes à la Maintenon Les filets mignons à la maréchale de mouton en chevreuil à la purée d'oseille .. Les petits carrés de mouton en aigrettes .. Le carré au persil ... .. .. .. Les carbonades à la jardinière .. Les poitrines de mouton à la Ste. Menoult La masette de mouton à la chicorée Langues de mouton aux navets ., . m ::::: ::::::: :::':::::::::::: :::::::::::::::: 144 r. 146 .: 145 Xxvii : .. 140 :::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::: .. 151 Page Langues de mouton aux laitues ,.. au gratin , 147 en papillotes S é mincés à la chicorée Emincé de mouton aux concombres , 148 - à la chicorée .. .. Les queues de mouton à la purée de pois - St. Laurent ... Les cervelles de mouton en matelotte .. 150 Les pieds de mouton, à la poulette -, en canelons - , en marinade Roguops de mouton, à la brochette 152 au vin de Champagne .. 153 Le quartier de mouton aux haricots .. .. ib. Le gigot braisé, called generally de sept-heures. (See relevés de potages, No. 7.) .. Le quartier de mouton, farcie à la Lyonaise La selle de mouton rôtie .. ; Carré de mouton bouilli .. Gigot de mouton bouilli .. . .. .. .. CHAP. VII.-ENTRÉES of VeaL. Côtelettes de veau grillés à l'Italienne .. .. .. 155 - à la Vénitienne, dites aux fines herbes ib. à la Dauphine .. .. .. .. 150 -- à la Mirepoix .. . .. ib. - en papillottes, ou à la Maintenon .. 157 à la Chingara ... - à la Dreux - à la Chalons ... _ à la financière Le carré de veau à la crême .. à la Mirepoix .. .. ib. :::::::: xxvi ::: .. 160 161 163 : .. 166 : : ib. : : : ::::::::::::::::::: Page Le carré de veau à la. Barbarie .. .. 159 à la 6te. Menhout Le fricandeau aux différentes purées .. Another method .. .. Les grenadins à la porée de céleri blanc .. 164 La noix de veau en bedeau 165 Veau à la bourgeoise .. .. ib. Les ris de veau à la dauphine - à la financière 167 -----à la dreux,.. La blanquette de veau aux concombres à la paysanıfe 168 Escalopes de ris de veau aux petits pois .. 169 Des attelets de sis de veau à l'Italienne Les escalopes de ris de veau en caisse .. Croquettes de ris de veau .. .. 271 Cervelles de veau en matelotte ... 172 à la maître d'hôtel - au beurre noir ... .. - de veau au soleil - sauce aux tomates Tendrons de veau à la jardinière .. - aux petits pois à l'Espagnole .. .. 174 aux pois à l'Allemande, dits au blanc.. ib. aux laitues à l'Espagnole .. en 'marinade, dites au soleil .. en chipolata à l'Espagnole en chipolata au blanc .. à la purée de marons .. Les oreilles de veau farcies frites .. Oreilles de vead sauce aux tomates Les oreilles de veau à la Hollaudoise in à la ravigotte ::::::::::::::::::::::: 169, 170 :::::::::: i, xxix Page .. 177 ., 178 .. ib. Foie de veau piqué à la broche . ... .. Les escalopes de foie de veau aux fines berbes .. Les petites noix d'épaules de veau à l'oseille Les petites noix d'épaules de veau à chicorée Les pieds de veau au naturel ... no en marinade .. - farcis en soleil .. à la poulette .. ::::: i ::::::::: :::::: ::::::::::::::::: : CHAP. VIII.-ENTRÉES, OF Fowls. Fowl, au consommé ... , à la Villeroi ... --, à la Montmorenci — , à la Condé .. -, à la Turque , à la Dreux .. with green oysters aux olives ... , à la crème .. - , à la Monglas , à la Dubari .. , à la Mirepoix, otherwise à la cendre , à la cardinal om, au campine, à l'oignon cru se , à la Tartare . ---, à la chingara : - , a l'estragon ... , alix chouxfleurs . ... .. Côtelettes de filets de poularde, à la maréchale The wings of fowl à la St. Laurent .. Filets of fowls sautés au suprême · Scollops of fowls aux concombres. .. .. à l'essence de concoinbres... r. 186 :::::::::::: .. 192 ir ib. .. 192 ... XXX Page Les escalopes de poulardes aux truftes Scollops of fowl à la Conti aux truffes Fowl scollops with green pease.. Filets de poulardes à la Chingara Blanquette of fowl marbrée ... Wings of fowl a la Dauphine .. Pudding, or boudin à la reine .. Croquettes of fowl au velouté .. Hachi, or minced fowl à la Polonoise .. Legs of fowl en caneton. Duckling like en balotine .. .. - à la orlie . . - à la dreux .. :::::::::::: .. 193 .. 194 .. 195 .. 195 .. ib. .. 196 .. ib. .. 197 .. 198 CHAP. IX.-ENTRÉES or Fat CHICKENS: Chickens à l'ivoire - à la Villeroi .. - - à la Montmorenci à la Condé à la Turque .. - aux pâtes d'Italie Fat pullets aux nouilles .. Chickens à la Tartare . Fat pullets à la Givry .. .. Chickens à la Barbarie aux truffes - à la cardinal .. .. Fillets of fat pullets à la royale .. Cutlets of chicken à l'épigramma Fillets of chicken à la maréchale fat pullets sautés à la Lucullus .. Escalopes de pullets aux truffes .. .. Scollops of fat pullets à la Conti aux truffes .. Escalopes of chicken à l'essence de concombres ... :::::::::::::: :::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::: .. ib. 208 ib. .. 20g i 210 .. iba xxxi . Wings of chicken à la maréchale. .. .. .. 212 Blanquette of chicken à la turque .. .. .. ib. Sauté of fillets of fat pullets à la turque .. . .. 212 au suprême. (See above, No. 22. Fillets of fowl au suprême) .. .. .. 213 Wings of fat pullets à la dauphine. (See above, No. 30. Wings of fowl à la dauphine.) .. .. .. ib. Boudins of fillets of chickens à la reine. (See above No. 31.) .. .. .. .. . Boudins of chickens à la Richelieu -Boudins, or puddings à la Sefton Quenelles of chicken au consommé clair Rissolles of fowl .. .. Croquettes of chickens au velouté Fricassée of chickens au naturel .. à la paysanne · à la chevalière .. .. .. of chickens à la St. Lamberts à la dauphine Marioade of chickens à la St. Florentin Friteau de poulets gras .. .. .. Fricassée of chickens à la bardoux La capilotade of chickens Members of chickens au soleil, or marinade cuite Marinade of chickens à la orlie .. Emincé of chickens à la polonoise .. Blanquette of chickens aux petits pois .. Soufflé of chickens à la crème. .. Le gratin of filets of chickens au velouté. Galantine of fat chickens .. Boudins of chickens à la Ude .. Grenade of fillets of chickens .. Turbans of fillets of chickens à la Sultane ::::::::::: :::::::::: AM 22 ::::::::::::: ; ::: 299 : xxxii 233 234 Page CHAP. X.--Entrées OF PARTRIDGES, YOUNG' AND OLD. A whole partridge à l'Espagnole .. 231 Young parıridges à la Montmorenci - à la Barbarie à la Dreux crapaudine .. givry .. Compotte of young partridges à blanc., 236 - à brun .. Partridges aux choux dressés .. .. .. Sauté of fillets of young partridges au fumet .. .. 239 Čutlets of young partridges en épigramme aux truffes .. 241 Sauté of fillets of young partridges à la Sefton.. .. Croquettes of young partridges .. .. Soufflé of young partridges .. .. 243 Purée de gibier à l'Espagnole .. .. ib. Salmi of young partridges à l'Espagnole.. 244 Young partridges à la Monglas .. .. 245 -- - en surprise .. Quenelles of young partridges au fumet.. Boudins of young partridges .. . :::::::: .. 242 :::::::: :::::: 246 :::: CHAP. XI.-RABBITS. Fillets of young rabbits à la orlie .. .. 248 Turban of fillets of rabbits à la sultane .. Emincé ot rabbits au fumet .. .. 250 Escalopes of rabbits aux truffes, likewise à la Conti ., ib. Blanquette of rabbits aux pois .. Escalopes of rabbits au fumet.. Sauté of rabbits à la Conti Young rabbits en friteau.. 253 Rabbits à la Vénitienne .. - en caisses.. 254 251 252 :::::: :::: xxxi 256 257 ::::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::: Page Giblottes of rabbits . . . . ..::. 254 au blanc .. Fillets of young rabbits en lorgnettes i, 256 Paté chaud of rabbits. .. Quenelles of rabbits Gratin of rabbits .. . Soufflé of rabbits ..'. .. Croquettes of rabbits ... ... ... Boudins of rabbits à la reine .. à la Richelieu.. iegs of rabbits en papillotte .. Rissôles of rabbits . . . ..'. Boudins of rabbits à la Lucullus .... ... 262 Fillets of rabbits à la Maréchale ... .. 263 à la Pompadour' . Attereaux of rabbits à l'Italienne ............ 264 CHAP XII.-HARES AND Leverets. . Hare en daube .... ....... . ... ... 266 Civet of bare, served as terrine ....... ...... 268 Fillets. of hare, au sang ... more .. .. 269 , en chevreuil ... ... ..si.. 270 Pain of hares, boudius of bares, roasted hares.. os Entrées of red legged partridges, or bartavelles.. : .. Quails and cailleteaux .. Compotte of quails . à blanc. Quails aux fois .... .. -au gratin ..... .. , à la bourguignotte .. à la crapaudine .. .. 275 Woodcocks and snipes :. .. ib. * Salmi of woodcocks .." ...... 270 :::::::::::::: .. ib. :::::::::: XXXIV Page •. 276 _ jb. 277 :::::::::::: 281 .. 282 .. 283 Salmi of woodcocks a l'Espagnolo Croustade de purée of woodcocks Plovers ... :.. .. .. Capilotade of plovers . Pigeons .. .... Compotte of pigeons au roux .. --à la paysanne Pigeons à la crapaudine .. .. - au soleil .. .. .. Cutlets of pigeons à la d'Armagnac Maréchale Pigeons à la Toulouse .. .. .. financière .. l'aspic clair . cooked in all manner of ways Ducks, and wild ducks... Ducks aux navets .. .. .. petits pois .. Ducks.à la purée de pois verds .. Ducklings à la bigarade ... .. Salmi of wild ducks Members of ducks à la purée de lentilles Ducks aux olives .. Capilottade of ducks . :::::::::::::::::::::::: 284 : : :::: :::::::::::: ib. 287 80 ::: LARKS. .. .. ....... Larks au gratin .. Caisses of larks ... Paté chaud of larks Larks en croustade 289 ... ... :::: :::: PHEASANTS. Salmi of pheasants à l'Espagnole . ...... XXXV: Page 29% Croquettes of pheasant ..' Hachi of pheasants a la Polonoise Soufflé of pheasant. .. .. .. .. .. ib. : : : :::::::: ::::::::: : in CHAP. XIII.-Fresh Water Fish. . Carp. , Carpe grillé, sauce aux capres .. . Carpe farcie au four .... ... La carpe au bleu, et au court bouillon .. Court bouillon .. .. Carpe à la chambord...' Matelotte de carpe à la royale.. - marinière Les petits pâtés de farce de carpe .. . . . Eblo. · .. La matelotte d'anguilles .. .. . Tronçons d'anguilles à la Tartare - poulette' . L'anguille roulée au foar .... .. .. 301 Tronçons d'anguilles piqués et glacés is .: 302 : : :: ib. :: i : 302 .. 303 3041 Pikb. Brochet à la Polonoise .. .. tay Genevoise ...... Hollandoise . . . . . Brochet au four à la Françoise .. sauce à matelotte, in Filets de brochet à la maître-d'bôtel - maréchale .. torque ., ... Brochet à la chambord .. . 305 ... 306 ... ib. 307 ::: ܟib ,…. .. 308 C2 XXXVI : Perch, Perch a la water-fish .. Perches à l'eau, or water souchet à la maître-d'hôtel à l'eau, sauce Hollandoise : :::: ::::. I · Tench frite. Tench. ... ... .. : : · TROUT AND SALMON Trout. Truite au court-bouillon .. - à la Genevoise .... Filets de truite à l'Aurore Truite saumonnée au four à l'Angloise Lamprey .. . :::::: :::::: : : CRAW Fish. : : ::: :::: :::: 316 r.WATER Ecrevisses à la poulette Bisque d'écrevisses Ecrevisses pour entrées Aloze, shad .. .. CHAP. XIV.-Salt-WATER Fish. Turbot... Filets de turbot à la maréchale .. .. .. 318 --- crême .. .. . . .. 319 Gratin de filets de turbot au velouté .. Vol au vent d'escalopes de turbot au bon beurre .. 320 Petites timballes de filets de turbot, à la Venitienne .. 321 Turbot grillé, sauce aux câpres .. .. .. ... 322 Xxxvii Page BARBUB. Saint-pierre .. .. .. .. i Salmon ... .. . ... .. . ... Dalles de saumon, sauce au bomard .. gribées, sauce aux câpres Saumon au court-bouillon ... . Côtelettes de saumon sautées a la maitre-d'hôtel Salade de saumon... ... ... ... .. Saumon à la Genevoise ... ... ... .. - sauce matelotte .. .. . ::::: :::::::::: ::: : : : : 11::::: CC .. . .. ESTURGEON. . Estürgeon à la broche .. .. au four . . à la Ude . .. .. .. ... Blanquette d'esturgeon à la paysanne aux pois .. Croquette d'esturgeon . . .. .. . Cod, CABILLEAU. Morue fraiche, dito cabilleau à la sauce aux huitres Cabilleau à la crème ..' . ..' .. Escalopes de cabilleau en bonne morue . Vol au vent d'escalopes de cabilleau à la crème.. Escalopes de morue fraiche à la maître-d'hôtel ::::::: : : .. 330 .. 331 .. ib. :: .. .. MORUE SALÉB... Morue salée à la maitre-d'hotel .. .. - provençale .. - crême .. .. bonne femme .. - Lyonaise l'Angloise : : :::::: :::::: : : : C3 xxxviii Page : : : •, 335 ... 336. .. ib. .337 : : 338 : ::::: : ib. : : • 339 .. 340 : WHITINGS. Merlang pannes, grillés ..... Filets de merlans à la orlie, . Quenelles de merlang .. . Boudios de merlan à la Ude... Filets de merlans à la maître-d'hôtel Paupiettes de filets de merlap Merlans entiers au gratin...... Merlans frils.. ... ... ... .. i.. . . SOLES." Sole au water suchet ... .. . Paupiette de filets de soles .. ... , .. .. Filets de soles sautés à la ravigotte .. à la orlic .. .. .. .. Timballes de filets de soles à la Vénitienne Vol ou vent de filets de soles à la crème... Filets de soles à l'Aurore .... ... .. Solles à la Miromesnil . Aspic et salade de filets de soles .. ••. • . . . . Croquettes de fillets de soles .. Filets de soles à la Turque. ... .. : : : : t .. .. 341 .. 342 .. ib. .. ib. .. 343. . ibi : : : : . . 345 : .. ib, HARENGS-FRAIS: Laitances de herings en caisse .. Groudins, piper .. .. Rouget, red mullets . . . " "MAQUERBAUX. Maquereaux grillé à la maître-d’hôtel .. i - bouilli à l'Angloise .. .. Filets de maquereaux à la Ste. Menehoult Filets de maquereaux sautés à la maitre-d'hôtel.. r ibe XXXix Page :...351 .. ib. .. 352 ... 353 Filets de maquereaux à la ravigotte : Timballe de laitances de maquereaux à la Sefton Vive Grillée, sea dragon .. Anchois .. . . Eperlaos .... .. . ... Raiel; raie aux câpres ... Raie au beurre noir Raie à l'Angloise ..... Petites raies frites Miroton de carlets a l'Italienne Limande ... ... ... ... Homard ... ... ... ... Petites timballes de bomard au velouté Emincé de homard dans les coquilles Sauce aux homards pour poisson .. ., Salade de homards . .... ... .. Moales au persinet, dites à la poulette ., Huîtres : escalopes d'huîtres vertes Petits pâtés d'huîtres à la Sefton Françoise Sauce aux huitres pour le poisson... entrées Les attelets d'huîtres ::::::::: ::::::::::': :::::::::::::::::::: :::::: :: Le GRONDIN OU LE Rouget, Red Piper.... Les filets de grondin sautés à la ravigotte à la crème .. 362 Filets de grondins à la Sefton . .. ...363 . Op EGGS IN GENERAL. L'omelette Baveuse . -- aux fines herbes .. .. Les petites omelettes au jambon .. .. .. .. .: 364 .. 365 .. ib. : xl Page ib. 366 : Les petites omelettes à l'oseille ... : L'omelette au rognon de veau . . Les petites omelettes aux confitures Les œufs au beurre noir. (Entrée maigre). au miroir . .. pochés ... .. frits. ..... à la tripe .. à la 'maître d'hôtel -- à l'Aurore .. .. en surprise. .. Les croquettes d'œufs Les andouilles d'æufs. Les eufs à la neige. .. Les cocottes .. .. . Les eufs, brouillés. .. ::::::::: :::::::::::::::: ::::::::::: :::::::::::::::: 369 373 ::::. . ENTREMETS OP VEGETABLES. - Les cardes à l'Espagnole, or, cardons d'Espagne a à l'essence, à la moelie de beuf au velouté, . , .. .. à la sauce blanche. . Les Epinards. Lès épinards au consommé - à la crème :. à la Françoise - en croustades Les choux-fleurs au velouté TARDS. 375 377 ::::: ib. " ENDIVE. Chicorée au jus .... .. -au velouté ... , ::. .. 379 xli Chicorée à l'Espagnole .. .. .. . Page 379 CAULIFLOWERS. Choux-Aeurs à la sauce blanche .. au velouté .. .. au Parmesan , .. à l'Espagnole SALSIFIS. SIFIS. Salsifis au velouté .... à l'Espagnole e frits. . :::: :::::::::: ::: ::::: ARTICHOKES. Articbauts au naturel .. à l'estouffade ... à la barigoule ... à la provençale frits .... .. .. ... à l'Italienne .. ... ... Culs d'artichauts, or artichoke-bottoms'... Blanc for vegetables and cardons in general Les culs d'artichaux en canapés .. ... ...... ib. ... .. 387. French BEANS. Haricots verds à la poulette --- Lionaise .. -- Françoise - provençale .. : : : · White Beans. Haricots blancs à la maître d'hôtel .. .. -- Lionoise. ... .. .. ... i, ... ib. xlii La purée d'haricots blancs - rousse ....... .. .. Page ..... 392 .. .. ib. ASPARAGUS. Les asperges à la sauce blanche, dites en bâtonets - en petits pois .. .. .. .. .. 393 ... 394 UMBERS. ... ib. : Les concombres farcis .. à la poulette en cardes Seacale . ... .. Brocoli .. .. .. . Potatoes .. Pommes de terre à la maitre d'hôtel - frites .. en purée Croquettes de pommes de terre Casserolle.. Soufie Gâteau .. .. Biscuits , :::::::::::: ::::::::::::::: :::::::: :::: Young, OR NEW GREEN PEASE, Pois à la Françoise Petits pois au lard.. Pois à l'Angloise .. Petits pois à la paysanne .. Of pease in general ...' WINDSOR Beans. Fèves de marais .. .. .. .. Another method ... ... .. .. .. .. .. .. 405 .. xliii Fèves au marais au petit lard Page .........: 406 ... TURNIPS. Navets à la sauce blanche .. .. . Les navets en forme de poires, ou de pommes glacés ... 407 La purée de navets blanche .. .. - rousse .. .. .. .. .. CARROTS. Carrottes à la d'Orleans... La purée de carottes .. Le soumé de_carottes : : : .: ÇELERY. Céleri à l'Espagnole.. .. à la sauce blanche .. : : : . .. 410 ib: ENTREMETS SUCRÉS. .. Apples. Pommes à la Portugaise ... .. .. Miroton de pommes,... Saédoise ditto...." Chartreuse ditto et de fruit Le turban ditto ... ... Crême pâtissière .. .. Another method, called frangipane ..., Pf rice for entrées and entremets :::::::: :1:::::::: : ini. .. RIS EN ENTRÉES. Casserolle au ris ... Cassolettes of rice... Le gateau de ris ... Les croquettes de ris :::: Hi .. 419 5.,,...420 xliv Le soufflé de ris ... ... ... .. Le ris gratiné .. . Le turban de ris .. .. Crouciles farcies d'apricots.. .. engem de pommes .. Soumé de pommes dans un bord de ris .. Charlotte de pommes mêlée d'abricots .. ::::::: ::::::: EAMS IN GENERAL. Crême au caffé .... ... ... ... au citron ... mici , au chocolat.. - à la vanille -- au thé - à la fleur d'oranges.. .. à la geret, dite au caramel, The manner of melting isinglass .. Les oeufs à l'eau .. .. - au bouillon, et renversés à la neige.. ... La crême à l'Italienne ... ... - d’Ananas Le pouding de cabinet, dit pouding à la chancelière Tapioca en soufflé et gateau ::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::: .. : OF SOUFFLES D'ENTREMETS. Soufflé de pommes de terre au citron .. à la fur d'oranges de crême de sis .. de pain .. . de caffé - de chocolat à la vanille. ::::::: .. de catre xili .::::::: Page io 4371 .. ibai . ib. i :. 438) .. ib. i. .. 4392 140. ::::::::::::::::: 1:::::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::::::: Souffé au saffron ..., ... a l'apamas .... .. à la rose .. . ' Omelette soufflé ... Gelées au fruit. .... - de fraises ..... e de framboises .. .. de groseilles rouges de groseilles framboisés .. groseilles blanches ... - d'oranges ...... de citrons ....... - en mosaïque d'ananas ... de cerises .. Le miroton de pêches Gelée de pied de veau - de vio de Madère ..' Des Fromages À LA GLACE. Fromage d'abricot .. .. .. o de fraises . .. -- de framboises .... - à la fleur d'oranges. à la vanille. ... - au marasquin ... --- au chocolat - au caffé Des gelées marbrée .. Crême au café marbrées .. marbrée, vanille el chocolat Patiseries chaudes et froides Paté brisée, pour les pâtés froids et chauds .. ::::::::::::: ...4421 ib. 4441 ibi 445 ... .. .. . ibo . 448 :::::::::: ::::::: ::::::::::::: ::::::::::::: 52 ib. ... 453 .. 454 xlvi ... io Page ii 4572 ..-458 •. 461 Paté à l'eau chaude .... Feuilletage .. ... Pâte à brioches .. . Gateau de compiegne. Baba Brioches au fromage ... Nougat. .. . . .. .. .. ::::::: ::::::: A :::::: .. .. ::::: 472 ENTREMBTS SUCRÉS ET PATISSERIBS CHAUDES: Meringues séches .., .. •• au marasquin au sucre chaud..... Pates à gimblettes ....... royale, dite à choux.... .. . .. Les petits choux pralinés .. Les gimblettes à la d'Artois .. - pralinés .. .. Le panier de petits choux à la Chantilli .. Pains à la duchesse ...... ... .. Choux en biscuits, dits gâteaux à la d'Artois Le biscuit de savoie Pâtes à tarte, dite d'office ... d'amande ..., .... Tartelette de confiture. .. .. de pâte d'amande ... Gaufre à la Flamande. .. .. Tart of fruit, English fashion ::::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::::: :::::::. .. 476? 477 ib. i : ADVICE TO COOKS. Cooking is a singular science requiring a' great deal of time, intelligence, and activity to acquire it in its perfection ; great experience is necessary to practise it as a chief professor. There are very few good cooks, though there is a great number who call themselves so. This dispropor- tion of talent among them is the cause of the little respect in which they are held; for if they were all provided with the qualities necessary, they would certainly be considered as artists. What science demands more study than cooking? You have not only, as other arts re- quire, to satisfy the eyes ; but by how many' means are you bound to satisfy the persons who employ' you? The econoiny which every one demands ; the different taste of persons at the same table ; the difficulty of procuring things which are necessary ; the want of unanimity among the servants of the house; the unlimited confidence sometimes given to persons who are not capable of giving orders in the kitchen, without giving themselves airs, which are almost always out of reason, and which often discourage the cook. In fact, a thousand observations, too tedious to detail, render this employment very laborious and little honored. Nevertheless, if you are extremely clean, if you are very sober, xlviii and have, above all, a great deal of activity, you succeed one day or other in acquiring that confi. dence, which these qualities always inspire. You have not the power, as others have, to put off till another day; the work must be done at the ap- pointed time: be careful then, to have every thing ready for your work always by the time it is re- quired, and, above all, without noise or confusion, Although you ought not to be regarded merely as a scrvant, you have still a duty to fulfil; you are obliged to serve at the precise hour, to anti- cipate all that can give pleasure to your employer, to have every thing ready which he has forgot to order, to watch strictly over those in your department. If you confide any thing to persons under your control, be careful always to have it done under your eye, that you may be able to answer for the fault if there be any. It often happens that the company who dine together have not the same tasle ; try as much as possible to furnish them with what they like, and above all, make nu objections to change any dish which is not approved of, Were you even the best cook in the world, if you are obstinate in your old routine, without seeking to please those who employ you, you will merely exist without acquiring either re- putation or fortune. Great cleanliness is requisite in the utensils you employ: you ought never to Xhix trust but to yourself the examination of the copper utensils of the kitchen, which are very dangerous. You ought, every time you use a stew-pan or other utensil, to see that it has been well scoured and clean. The scullery girls scour their utensils on the outside and scarcely ever give themselves the trouble to scour the inside, from which it will happen that this want of observation will spoil the taste, and that the persons who eat what has been cooked in dirty vessels are often exposed to colics and other maladies without knowing the cause. It is to a good broth you must confide for good sauces. If you have trusted this part of cookery to persons who have been negligent, and that your broths have not been well skimmed, you never can succeed. Your broths are never clear, you are obliged to clarify them: any thing clari. fied loses its flavor. Clarifying is only good for things which are highly seasoned ; such as aspics, jellies of pies: and these are what, in general, require to be clarified. A broth well made, saves you a great deal of trouble, for it would be ridiculous in a small dinner to make first a great bouillon or broth, then a “ consommé," then an “empotage," &c. When you have charged your stock pot with the articles indi- cated in the chapter which treats of it, the uame broth will serve you to make your soup, a little white sauce or brown ; for economy is more necessary than ever, seeing the dearness of everything used in the kitchen. You should have great care to take off the fat and skim your soups and sauces infinitely. The sinallest bit of grease is insufferable, it indicates bad cookery and a cook without me- thod. The “ cuissons,” the “ braizes," the “ broiling," are things which require the great- est attention. The theory of the kitchen is trifling, but its practice is extensive. Many persons talk of it and yet know nothing about it: for instance, “ t' Almanac des Gourmans," and “ La Gastronomie," a poem on the subject of cookery, without treating of it ; works only fit for the chaplain's servant, and containing nothing that can give you an idea of the science in its perfection. There exists in France a mode of instructing cooks which cannot be practised here in En- gland. For example, in the houses of the Royal Family of France there were different depart- ments : the “ soups," the “ sauces," the “ en- trées," the “ cuissons,” the “ broilings," the “ entremets,” the pastry, the roasts, the larder, &c. &c. for each of these departments there were cooks and assistants, who passed alter- nately to each of these different branches; ex- cept the roasts and pastry, which were constantly under the direction of the same persons. · li As each person passed every week in his turn in these different branches, each person could not fail learning the principles of cookery. Nevertheless there are persons who were very clever in one department who were horribly stupid in another. Sauces were not confided but to experienced persons, as they are the most difficult 'parts of cookery ; but when I worked upon extraordinary occasions in the royal kitchen, I passed through every depart- ment, so that, I flatter myself, I know the science of cookery from principle. One diffi- culty in cooking is the name of the “ entrées," the “ entremets,” &c. Cooks seldom agree upon this point. Some naines owe their origin either to the cook who invented them, or the first epicure who gave them a reputation. I confess there are some ridiculous names ; for instance, “ soupe au clair de lune," “ soupe à la jambe de bois,” • la poularde en bas de soie," and many other names still more ridiculous, which I shall certainly not mention in my treatise. “Her Majesty's soup,” “ puddings à la Richelieu," .“a fowl à la Villeroy," “ sweetbreads à la Dau- phine," &c. &c. are wames which are fluent and sonorous. Béchamelle owes its name to a riel financier who was a great epicure. I am sur- prised not to find in cookery the names of those who have given a celebrity to science, such as Apicius, Lucullus, Octavius, and those who pa- tronized it under the reign of Louis the XIVth. Voltaire says in his “ Mondain," “ that a cook is a divine mortal." Why should we not glo- rify ourselves in our knowledge of cookery? It is the soul of our pleasures in all times, in all ages. How many marriages have been the cons sequence of a n.eeting at dinner i how much good fortune has been the result of a supper ? At what period of life are we happier than at table : There hatred is lulled to sleep and pleasure reigns. It is at table that an amiable lady or gentleman shines in sallies of wit, where they shew the ease with which they perform the honors of the table. Here the cook, by his. skill and attention, anticipates their wishes in the happiest selection of well dressed dishes, Here their wants are satisfied, their minds and bodies invigorated, and themselves are qualified for the high delights of love, music, poetry, dancing, and other pleasures. And is he, whose talents has produced these happy effects, to rank no higher in the scale of man than a com- mon servant ? Yes, rny friends, adopt the rules. I have laid down, and by these attentions. the self-love of mankind will consent at last, that Cookery shall rank in the class of the sciences, and its professors deserve the name of Artists. THE FRENCH COOK. CHAPTER I. SAUCES, BROTHS, AND CONSOMMÉS. N. 1.-Le Grand Bouillon. Take part of a breast or of a rump of beef, with some of the parures. Put the meat into a marmite with cold water. Set it on the fire, and watch the proper moment to skim it well. If this broth is not clear and bright, the other broths and sauces will also be spoilt. Be particular in skimming off the black scum ; pour a little cold water into the above to raise up the white scum. · When all the scum has been skimmed off, put in a few carrots, turnips, heads of celery, and leeks, four large onions, one of which is to be stuck with cloves; then throw a handful of salt into the marmite, and let the whole simmer for five hours. Drain the broth through a cloth, or a double silk sieve. Lay the piece of beef in some liquor of braize, if you have any, to im- prove its savour. This grand bouillon serves to mouiller (moisten) all other broths, which are termed marmites. NO 2.- Grand Consommé. Mark in a marmite a large piece of small round of beef, with a knuckle of veal, and the other bones of the leg, according to the quantity of sauce you may want to make. Put likewise the parures of a neck of veal. This marmite will admit all manner of veal or poultry. Let the meat sweat over a gentle fire. Mouillez with about two large ladles full of grand bouillons put no other vegetables in this marmite, except a bunch of parsley and green onions. Let them sweat thoroughly; then thrust your knife into the meat; if no blood issues it is a sign that it is heated through. Then moisten it with boiling grand bouillon, and let it boil for about four hours. You use this consommé to mark the sauces, or the consommés of either poultry or game. Skim off the grease and scum of all the various marmites, and keep them full, in order that the broth should not be too high in colour. NO 3.-Consommé of Poultry. Beer is no longer required in consommés either of poultry or of game. Put a few slices of ham in the bottom of a marmite or of any other vessel, likewise some slices of veal. In France we generally take the sous noix and the contre noix. Lay over the veal the loins of fowl and some parures. Then mouillez about two inches deep with grand consommé, and let it sweat on à fire so confined that the blaze may not colour the circumference of the vessel. When the meat is heated through, cover the meat with consommé; season it with mushrooms, a bunch of parsley and green onions, and let the meat boil, till it be done properly. The broths are more savoury and mellow when the meat is not overdone. Drain the consommé through a silk sieve, to use it when wanted. NO 4.-Consomné of Game. If you are to send up entrées of partridges, you must have prepared a consommé of par- tridges. Mark in a stew-pan a few slices of veal, the backs, &c. of partridges to be laid over. If you mouillex with a consommé containing ham, there is no occasion to put in any more; if not, a few slices of ham will not be amiss. If your entrées are aux truffes, add the parures of your B 2 truffles and a few mushrooms. When your con. sommé is sufficiently done, drain it through a cloth, or silk sieve, and use it when you have an opportunity. · NO 5.- Consommé of Rabbits. ' MARK the various consommés with the bones and parures of rabbits. Do the same as for a consommé of partridges ; put in truffles if your entrées be aux truffes. NO 6.--Blond de Veau. MARK a few slices of Westmoreland ham (the · lean only) in a pretty thick stew-pan. Lay over them pieces of sous de noir or contre noix of veal. You may also use some rump of veal. Pour into the stew-pan a sufficient quantity of grund consommé to cover about half the thick- ness of the meat. Let it sweat on a stove, over a brisk fire. Watch your stew-pan and the con- tents. When the broth is reduced, thrust a knife into the meat that all the gravy may run cut; then stew the sauce somewhat more gently. When the whole is absolutely à glace, you must let your blond de veau stew till of a light brown, but take care it does not burn, to prevent which you put it on red hot ashes. Keep stirring your stew-pan over the fire, in order that the glace nes may be all of the same colour. Turn the meat upside down, that it may not stick. When your glace is of a dark red colour, mouillez with some hot broth; let the glace detach before you put the stew-pan on the fire, for it might still burn. Season with mushrooms and a bunch of parsley and green onions. When your blond de veau has boiled for an hour, it is done enough. Take off the grease, and drain through a silk sjeve. N° 7.-Jus de Bauf. Trim, with layers of bacon, the bottom of a thick stew-pan ; cut four large onions by halves, lay the flat part over the bacon; take a few slices of beef, the nois or the sous noir are the parts that are used in preference; mark them in the same manner as in the blond de veau, mouillez with the grand bouillon only. Let this sweat in order to get all the gravy out of the beef, and when the broth is reduced, thrust a knife into the meat; let it stew gently on a slow fire, till the gravy be of a light brown, without burning. Next mouillez with some grand bouillon, throw in a large bunch of parsley and of green onions, a little salt and pepper corn. Let the whole boil for two hours ; take the fat off, and drain it through a silk sieve, to use it when wanted. B 3 NO 8.-L'Aspic. Take a handful of aromatic herbs, such as burnet, chervil, and tarragon. Boil those herbs in white vinegar; when the vinegar is well scented, pour into your stew-pan some consommé de volaille reduced ; season well before you clą. rify. If your aspic is high seasoned, break the white of four egys in an earthen pan, which beat with an osier rod; throw your aspic into those whites of eggs, and put the whole on the fire in a stew-pan; keep beating till your jelly gets white, it is then very near boiling. Put it on the corner of the stove, with a cover and a little fire on the top of it. When quite clear and bright, drain it through a bag or sieve, to be used when wanted. N. B. If you should want to use it for a mayo- naise, or as a jelly in moulds, you must make certain of its being stiff enough. If it be not, put more, either a knuckle of veal or a calf's foot ; which put into a small mould in ice, for trial; when you may ascertain whether it may be used in large moulds, which, it is to be observed, re- quire the jelly to be quite firm, you must use more of those parts that have nerves about them. NO 9.-Jelée de Viande, for Pies. The gelée de viande for pies, is not to be pre- in pared in the same manner as the aspic. Neither aromatic herbs or vinegar are to be used. The jelée is to be marked as follows: In a marmite put a good piece of round of beef, two calf's feet, a few slices of veal, remnants of fowl, or game, according to the contents of your pies, two onions stuck with cloves, two carrots tournées, four shalots, a bunch of parsley and green onions, some thyme, bay leaves, spices, &c. and a small piece of ham. Sweat the whole, then moisten with some good broth, let the marmite be cover- ed close, and those ingredients stew for four hours, but very gently. When done, taste it, season it well, and clarify it as you do the aspic. In order that it may keep the better, put it in the ice. N. 10.—Le Suage, or l'Empotage. MARK in a marmite twenty pounds of beef, a knuckle of veal, a hen, and if you have any remnants of fowl or of veal, you may put them in likewise. Mouillez this marmite with two large ladles full of broth. Sweat it over a large fire. Let it boil to glace without its getting too high in colour. Next fill it up with some grand bouillon that is quite hot. Put some vegetables into this marmite which is intended for making soup only. But you must put very few in the consommés B 4 which are to be reduced, and would have a bitter taste, if they were to retain that of the roots, and accordingly not be fit to be used in delicate cookery. L'empotage requires no more than five hours to be done ; drain it through a silk sieve, and use it when you have occasion, · N. 11.-Le Consommé clarifié Is to be clarified as specified for the aspic, and jelée de viande. You must not forget that, such articles as are to be clarified require more high seasoning than others. NO 12.-Le Jus clair Is to be clarified with whites of eggs, or blond de veau, or jus de bæuf. The blond de veau however is more mellow, and better suited for the table of the great. The jus de bouf may do for private families of the middle class. N. 13.-Le Bouillon de Santé. Mark in an earthen marmite six pounds of round of beef, one half of a hen, and a knuckle of veal. Mouillez with cold water. Let it boil so that the scum only comes up by degrees, and that the broth may be quite clear and limped. When you have skimmed your marmite, throw · into it two carrots, two leeks, and a head of celery, two onions stuck with three cloves, three turnips, and a parsnep. Let the whole simmer gently for four hours. Then put a little salt i to it, and skim off the grease or fat before you serve up. NO 14.- Roux blanc. . Put a good lump of butter in a stew-pan, let it melt over a slow fire; when melted, powder it over and beat it with flour, keep it on the fire for a quarter of an hour, fry it white, pour it into an earthen pan to use it when wanted. NO 15.-Roux blond. Put in a stew-pan a quantity of butter propor- tionate to that you want to prepare. Melt it gently ; when melted, if you mix any flour with it, you must stew it on a brisker fire, and then put it again over a very slow fire, till it be of a nice colour; but mind this is to be procured only by slow degrees. When of a light brown you pour it into an earthen pan, and keep it for use. N16.-Le Coulis. MARK the coulis in the same manner as the blond de veau, with slices of ham, and sous noix of veal, &c. When your glace is, of a. nice colour, moisten it, and let it stew entirely. You 10 must season it with a bunch of parsley and green onions, mushrooms, &c. Then mix some rous brun with the blond de veau, but do not make them too thick, as you could not get the grease out, and that a sauce with the fat neither has a pleasing aspect or a good taste. Let it stew for an hour on the corner of the stove, skim off the grease, and drain it through a tammy, &c. ;. N17.-Grande Espagnole. BESIDES a little ham, mark in a stew-pan some pieces of veal, those parts namely that are called sous noir and contre noir. Mouillez the same as for the coulis; sweat them in the like manner; let all the glace go to the bottom, and when of a nice red colour, mouillez with a few spoonfuls of consommé to detach the glace: you then pour in the coulis. Let the whole boil for half an hour, that you may be enabled to remove all the grease. Drain it through a clean tammy. Remember always to put into your sauce some mushrooms, with a bunch of parsley and green onions. NO 18.-Espagnole de Gibier. The same operation as above, except that in this you introduce the loins of either young or old partridges in order that your sauce may taste of game. Put them in the sweating. Remember E same 11 that such sauces as are kept too long on the fire lose their savour. N? 19.-Sauce tournée. Take some roux blanc, dilute it with some consommé de volaille; neither too thin or too thick. I must repeat what I have already said, a sauce when too thick will never admit of the grease being removed. Let it stew on the corner of the stove. Throw in a few mushrooms, with a bunch of parsley and green onions. Skim it well, and when there is no grease left drain it through a tammy, to use it when wanted, No 20.-Sauce à l'Allemande. This is merely a sauce tournée or season re- duced, into which is introduced a thickening well seasoned, NO 21.-Le Velouté. Take much about the same quantity of con- sommé and of sauce tournée, which reduce over a large fire. When your sauce is very thick, you should have some thick cream boiling, which you pour into your sauce, and give them a couple of boilings; season with a little salt, and drain through a tammy. If perchance the ham be too briny, put in a little sugar. 12 NO 22.-L'Italienne blanche. AFTER having tourné some mushrooms, throur them into a little water and lemon juice to keep them whi:e. Formerly it was customary to use oil for these sauces, as on account of its being much lighter, it would rise always to the top, whereas in thick sauces butter never does. This operation, however, is useless. Put in a stew- pan two-thirds of sauce tournée, and one-third of consommé; add two spoonfuls of mushrooms. chopt very fine, and especially of a white colour, half a spoonful of shalots. likewise chopt, well washed in the corner of a clean towel. Reduce this sauce, season it well, and send it up. NO 23.-L'Italienne rousse. · It is requisite in a kitchen to have what is commonly called an assiette, which is a dish with four partitions, intended for the reception of fine herbs. You must always have ready some parsley chopt very fine, some shalots the same; if the mushrooms were chopt before-hand they would become black ; therefore you only chop them when you have occasion for them; the fourth partition is intended for the reception of bunches of parsley and green onions. The chopping and mincing of the above is ihe business of the apprentice, if there be one 13 ander the head cook; if not, of the junior kitchen-maid. Take two spoonfuls of mushrooms, one spoon- ful of shalots, one ditto of parsley. Throw the whole into a stew-pan with two-thirds of Es- pagnole, and one-third of consommé. Some people will add white wine to the sauce. In France where there was a choice of light white wines it might be done easily, but in England where Champaign is the only wine that can be used, it would come too dear; besides the sauce may be made very good without any wine what- ever, if you know how to work it well, to its proper degree, with a little salt, and still less pepper. Brown sauces are not to be made thick. When your sauce is done enough, you must shift it into another stew-pan, and put it au bain marie. If you were not to skim this sauce with particular attention, you might skim off all the parsley, which is to be avoided. NO 24.-La Sauce hachée. This sauce although seldom, if ever, used in good cookery, is frequently to be met with at taverns and inns on the road. Such as it is, it is to be made in the following way. Chop some girkins, mushrooms, capers, and anchovies, which throw into an Italienne rousse, and that is what 14 is called a sauce hachée. Why have I called this a tavern or common inn sauce ? Because it is not requisite to have an Italienne well prepared. A common browning made with butter and flour, moistened with a little broth, or gravy, and some fine herbs, will answer the purpose of those who know no better. NO 25.-La Poivrade blanche. Pour into a stew-pan four spoonfuls of white vinegar, to which add some tarragon (if you have no tarragon, use tarragon vinegar), about twenty pepper corns ; reduce the vinegar to one- fourth of its original quantity ; pour into the stew-pan six spoonfuls of sauce tournée, and two spoonfuls of consommé; then reduce your sauce over a large fire. Drain it through a tammy, and then again lay it on the fire. Thicken it with the yolks of two eggs, work it with a large lump of butter. In case it should happen to be brown, pour a spoonful of cream into it, to re- store the white colour. NO 26.-La Poivrade blonde. In a small stew-pan mark a small carrot cut into dice, a few shalots the same, some parsley roots, some parsley, a few slices of ham, a clove, a little thyme, the half of a bay leaf, a few grains of pepper corn and all-spice, with a little mace. Let the stew-pan now be put on the fire, till it begins to be of a fine brown all round; then keep stirring with a wooden spoon ; pour into the stew-pan four spoonfuls of white vine- gar, and a small bit of sugar. Let this reduce nearly à glace. Then mouillez with some Es- pagnole and a little consommé, that you may be enabled to take the grease off the sauce. Taste whether there be salt enough, but mind it is not to be too acid; skim off the grease, and drain the sauce through a tammy, and serve up. N? 27.-L'Aspic lié. Put in a stew-pan with such herbs as are called ravigottes, namely burnet, chervil, and tarragon. Add two or three spoonfuls of white vinegar, and let the herbs infuse on a slow fire for half an hour. Then moisten with eight spoonfuls of Espagnole : let the whole stew for ten minutes or a quarter of an hour. Season it well, and serve up. N: 28.—La Ravigotte. The same as above, except that instead of Espagnole, you use sauce tournée. Let it boil for half an hour, then drain your sauce through a tammy. Have the same herbs as above, chopt 16 very fine, blanch them in a little salted water, lay them in a sieve to drain, and pour the ravi- gotte into the sauce. Work it with a lump of butter, and send up. Never omit to taste the sauce, for occasionally, according to the palatë of the host, some ingredients may be wanting, others too plentiful, which may be easily reme- died. NO 29.-La Mattre d'Hôtel grasse. Take a couple, or four spoonfuls of Allemande; work this sauce over a stové with a large lump of fresh butter. Take some parsley chopt very fine, throw it into your sauce with a little salt and pepper, and the juice of a lemon. Let this sauce be thick, if intended to mask any entrée whatever. “At any rate it is easy to thin a sauce, but if too thin it is a hard matter to thicken it; except with a lump of butter and flour, yet let it be ever so well managed, it is but a sad contri- vance. NO 30.-La Maitre d'Hôtel maigre Is nothing more than plain butter sauce with a little chopt parsley, salt, pepper and lemon juice. If shalots are acceptable, a few may be added, the same as to the mattre d'hôtel above. NO 31.–Sauce à l'Estragon, ou Pluche. . SEE N. 25, Poivrade blanche. Blanch some tarragon, either in fillets, squares, or any other shape you may think proper, and put it into the sauce. It is then called sauce à l'estragon. In other pluches, tarragon must always prevail. You may make pluches of parsley, chervil, &c. with the sauce called poivrade blanche. N: 32.- La Bourguignotte. Cut some truffles into balls of the size of a nutmeg: take some small round mushrooms, and put about twenty of each in a small stew-pan : pour over them a pint of Burgundy wine, with a small lump of sugar. Let the wine be reduced à glace. Then throw into the stew-pan six spoonfuls of Espagnole, and two of consommé. Let the whole boil for half an hour, taste it, and if well seasoned, send it up. N: 33.-Le bon Beurre. TAKE some Allemande rather thick, into which put a large lump of butter. Work the sauce well, season it, and send up. NO 34.—La Béchamelle grasse. Take a beat of butter, about three pounds of veal, which you cut into small slices, a quarter of 18 a pound of noix of ham, half a pottle of mush- rooms, two small white onions, à bunch of parsley and green onions; put the whole in a stew-pan, and lay it on the fire till the meat be made firm. Then put three spoonfuls of flour; mouillex with some boiling hot thin "cream. Keep your sauce rather thin, so that whilst you reduce it, the ingredients may have time to be stewed thoroughly. Season it with a little salt, and drain it through a tammy, when it retains no taste of flour. US N? 35.-La Bachamelle maigre Is prepared as above, except the meat, which by its nature is grasse. If you have made any sauces from fish, put a little sweating with the crearn. When done, drain it through a tammy and serve up. NO 36.—La Génoise. This sauce is made by stewing fish, yet it is natural enough that it should find its place among the other sauces. Make some marinade of various roots, such as carrots, roots of parsley, onions, and a few mushrooms, with a bay leaf, some thyme, a blade of mace, a few cloves, and some spice. Fry the whole white in some butter. Pour in some Madeira wine, and let the 19 marinade stew. When done enough, let your fish stew in the above, and take some of the liquor to make your sauce. Then take a little roux brun and mix it with the marinade, to which add two or three spoonfuls of blond de veau. Now let these stew gently on the corner of the stove; skim off all the grease, and season your sauce well. Then take a good lump of beurre d'anchois, and of butter kneaded with flour, and throw those into your sauce. When it is done, squeeze the juice of a lemon, and mask with the sauce, which must accordingly be made thick and mellow. NO 37.- Sauce à Matelotte, for Fish. Melt some roux brun, into which throw a few onions cut into slices : keep stirring over the fire till the onions be dissolved in the rour. Then mouillez with the wine in which your fish has been stewed, and which, by the bye, must be red wine. Add some parures of mushrooms, with a bunch of parsley and green onions well seasoned with spice. Let the flour be well done. Remember to throw in a few spoonfuls of blond de veau. Now taste whether your sauce be pro- perly seasoned, and drain it through a tammy. Then take a few smail glazed onions and mush- rooms fried white, likewise a few small quenelles, au. C 2 20 and put them in your sauce. When you are ready to serve up, you must add a beurre đan- chois, and a little butter kneaded with flour. Work your sauce well that it may be quite mellow. Then mask your fish. Sauce NO 38.–Sauce à Matelotte for Entrées. SEE Sauce Chambord. It being the same which is used for the matelottes of brains, &c. NO 39.-Sauce aux Pommes for Geese and roasted Pork, Peel some apples and cut them into quarters, put them in a stew-pan with a little brown sugar, and a little water. When they are melted, stir them well with a wooden spoon, mix a little butter and send up. N? 40.--Purée d'Oseille. Wash and pick some sorrel, and then put it in a stew-pan with a little water: keep stirring with your spoon to prevent its burning ; when melted, lay it in a hair sieve to diain, then on the table and chop it well with some trimmings of mush- rooms. When chopt fine you put it in a stew- pan with a little butter ; let it fry a long time on the fire in order to drench the water it con- tains. When it is become quite dry mix it with four spoonfuls of Espagnole, or more, if you have any occasion for a large quantity; and let it stew for a long while over a small stove. After it has been continually boiling for an hour, you rub it through a tammy. If it should happen to be too thick, dilute it with a little consommé or Espagnole. If too acid, put in a little glace and sugar. You must always put some lettuce with the sorrel, to mitigate its acidity. NO 41.-Oseille en Maigre. Pick your sorrel, let it melt, drain it, and lay it on the table, as above. Mind that your table be very clean. Then chop your sorrel for a long time and very fine, fry it gently in a stew- pan with a little butter. When it has been kept for about half an hour on a slow fire, throw in a spoonful of flour; mouillez with boiling hot cream, and let it stew on a slow fire for an hour. Then season it with a little salt. If your sorrel should be too acid, put a little sugar to it. Then thicken it with the yolks of four eggs, and serve up. If you should prefer making a Béarnoise, you make a kind of pap with flour and cream or milk, and let it boil. When the sorrel is done enough, you pour the Béarnoise over it, and the yolks of four eggs immediately after. In this manner the C3 22 thickening will never curdle, whereas if you follow the other method it most frequently will. If it be en gras that you wish to prepare your sorrel, instead of cream or milk, you mix it with some good consommé. You use the yolks of eggs in the like manner, and that is what we call le farce. N? 42.—Purée de Céleri. Cut the whitest part of your eelery, which blanch in water, to take off the bitter taste. Let it cool. Then put it in a stew-pan with a little consommé and sugar. Let it stèw for an hour and a half, and be reduced till there be no kind of noisture. You then mix it with four spoon. fuls of béchamelle or velouté, strain the whole through a tammy, and put it au bain marie. When ready to send up refine your sauce with a little thick cream. NO 43.— Purée d'Oignons blancs, or Soubise. Take a dozen of white onions. After having pealed and washed them, cut them in halves, take off the tops and bottoms, mince them as , fine as possible, and blanch them to make them taste sweeter. Then set them melting on a small stove, with a little butter. When they are thoroughly done, and no kind of moisture 23 left, mix four spoonfuls of béchamelle. Season them well, rub the purée through a tammy, and keep your sauce hot, but without boiling. You must also mix a small lump of sugar with the sauce. N° 44.—Purée d'Oignons bruns, et Lyonaise. Peel and wash your onions clean, then mince them, and fry them in a stew-pan with a little butter, till brown. Then mouillex with some Espagnole, if you have any; if not, singez with two spoonfuls of flour, mixed with some blond de veau and a small lump of sugar, to take off the bitter taste of the onions. Now drain the grease and season well with salt. Then strain your purée through an old tammy, for these sort of purées would destroy new ones. For the Lyonaise you make a purée of onions likewise, but then keep your sauce a little more liquid. Take some very small white onions, cut them into rings, and fry them till they be of a light brown, then lay them on a clean towel to drain, and throw them into your sauce. Give them one single boiling, that the grease, getting at the top, may easily be skimmed off, and serve up. 24 N° 45.-Purée d'Haricots blancs, maigre et grasse. New white beans are the best suited for making a purée. Put them into boiling water if they be fresh, and in cold water if they be dry, with a little butter in either case, which makes the skin more mellow. When they are done, throw in a handful of salt to give them a seasoning. Fry a few slices of onion in a little butter; when they are of a nice brown colour, singez them with half a spoonful of flour; mouillez with a blond de veau and season with a little salt and pepper, and skim off the grease. When the flour is done, mix it well with the beans, and squeeze them well before you rub them through the tammy. Let your purée be rather liquid, as it gets thick on the fire. A short time before you send up, mix with your beans a large lump of butter, and then serve up. The purée en maigre is prepared in the same manner ; but, instead of sauce grasse, you use jus maigre, or milk. If you wish to make it white, you then must sweat the onions gently and slowly, that they may not get brown. N? 46.-Purée de Champignons, brune et blanche. If you wish to make a purée de champignons 25 blanche, you must then tournez your mushrooms à blanc in a little water and lemon juice : you chop them with your knife; then put them in a stew-pan with a very small lump of butter. When your mushrooms are, what we call, melted, you moisten them with four or six spoonfuls of velouté. Do not let them boil long for fear they should lose their taste. Then rub them through a tammy. It is no easy matter, indeed, with regard to mushrooms, yet this sauce is called Purée de champignons. It is almost useless to observe, that for the purée à brun, it is enough to mouillez with some Espagnole only. If you were to fry your mush- rooms à brun, they then would turn black, and make your sauce of the like colour. Skim your sauce. Put a little sugar in both.--All such sauces as are called Purée, must be made thicker than others. roon sauce. NO 47.-Purée de Pois verds, nouveaux et secs. The purée of green peas for an entrée, is pre- pared in the same manner as that indicated for potage. You must only keep it thicker, and more rich, which is done by mixing a little glace with it. But if you were to put too much, the purée then would no longer retain its green co- lour ; neither must you let it boil. 26 The purée of dry peas is made as follows. Stew the peas with a large piece of bacon, the breast part, a few carrots and onions, a bunch of parsley and green onions, a little thyme, and bay leaves and some water. When quite done pound them in a 'mortar, and then rub them through a tammy, with the liquor they have been boiling in. Let it be properly seasoned, and a short time before you send up, pour in a verd de persil, or verd d'épinards. (See Sauces.) NO 48.–Purée de Marons. Take some fine new chesnuts; slit the peel with your knife, and put a little butter in a frying pan. Fry the chesnuts till the peal comes off ; you then boil them in a little consominé and sugar. When done, add four or six spoonfuls of Espa- gnole, and rub the whole through a tammy. Keep this sauce rather liquid, as it is liable to get thick. NO 49.- Les Nouilles. Nouilles are nothing but a French paste, which the cooks prepare themselves. Lay fiat on your table, or dresser, half a dozen spoonfuls of four; mark a hole in the middle, wherein put a small pinch of salt, a little water to melt the salt, the yolks of three eggs, a lump of butter of the size of a walnut; mix the whole well, Aatten the paste with a roller, about one line thick, cut it into slices of about an inch broad, and next cut your nouilles nearly as thick. Blanch them in boiling water to take off the flour that sticks around, and when they are blanched drain them and next let them cool, that they may not stick together. Let them boil in some good consommé. When done enough, drain them, and put them into whatever sauce you may fancy, either a blanquette, an Alle- mande, or a velouté. If to be served with a fowl use velouté; and Parmesan cheese, if served for an entremét. N: 50.-La Macédoine. This sauce can never be good but in the spring season, as green peas, asparagus, French beans, and artichoke-bottoms, are indispensably requisite, besides carrots, turnips, heads of celery, and small cauliflowers sprout. As it is very difficnlt to procure those various vegetables and roots in the same time of the year, you contrive to do your best. Cut some carrots in the shape either of olives, of balls, or small thin corks. Blanch them in a little water, then set them to stew with a little sugar and a few spoonfuls of consommé, over a large fire, that they may glace without 28 breaking. Stew the turnips in the like manner, but separately. Mind that the glace of your roots be not made too high in colour. The other vegetables are to be boiled in salt and water. Lay them on a clean towel to drain; mix them with the carrots and turnips, and three spoonfuls of béchamelle. Sautez, or toss gently, not to destroy the shape of the ingredients. If you are short of other vegetables, you may use cucum- bers and mushrooms; which however is attended with some danger, as they would make your sauce too thin, if you did not pay particular attention. NO 51.-Sauce d' Attelets. Take a spoonful of fine herbs, such as mush- rooms, parsley, shalots, and a little butter, which fry slightly in a stew-pan. When the herbs be- gin to be dry, without however being too dry, you singez them with a little four, and mouillez with broth or consommé. Reduce over a large fire, without skimning off the grease. Now season with pepper and salt. When your sauce begins to thicken, take it off the fire. Then throw in the yolks of two or three eggs, that you have been beating : keep stirring, and pour the sauce over whatever it may be. 29 NO 52.-La Sauce – Esturgeon. We call sauce d'Esturgeon a marinade that has served either to baste the sturgeon whilst roasting, or as a sauce when baked. Take part of this marinade, which reduce with some sauce tournée, and when it begins to get thick, you put in a good lump of butter kneaded with flour, a little glace, some beurre d'anchois, and the juice of a lemon. Mind you do not put too much salt, as a very little is required when you use anchovies. Besides you are always at leisure to add salt if wanted. ce N° 53.–Sauce Cardinale. REDUCE some sauce tournée with a few spoon- fuls of consommé de volaille. When your sauce is sufficiently done, take a beurre d'écrevisses, which throw in. Work it well, with a small lump of fresh butter to prevent the beurre d'écre- visses from turning to oil. Give it a good sea- soning NO 54.--Sauce de Homard. See Homard, in the entrées of fish, and whatever relates to the same. N: 55.-Sauce à la Lucullus. Lucullus was one of the most renowned Epi- LLUS was or 30 cures of ancient Rome; it is very natural of course to allot the name of a man who has brought the art of cookery into so high a repute, to a sauce which requires so much pains, attention, and science in the art, and which can only be sent up to the table of a wealthy and true connoisseur. After having worked the fillets, as indicated at the entrées, you have the legs and loins left to make the sauce, which is to be proceeded to as follows. Mark in a small stew-pan a few slices of ham; take up the loins of partridges, cut off the legs, up to the first joint, put the loins in' a stew-pan, then mouillez with some con- sommé de volailles. The parures of your truffles being ready, put them in a small mar- mite, and sweat the partridges for a few mo. ments only. Mouillez with boiling hot con- sommé. Let it stand for an hour and a half; then drain the consommé through a double silk sieve, reduce it to glace : now. take a sufficient quantity of velouté to mark whatever it is wanted for. Mix a spoonful of glace de perdreaux ; but as this glace would make the sauce of a brown colour, you must have a few spoonfuls of thick creain to mix with it. You must have marqué sepa- rately from your sauté, truffles cut into the size of a penny. Put them separately in clarified butter with a little salt. When you are going to send up your dinner · 31 you sautez those, truffles, drain the butter ; put them separately in a small stew-pan with a little essence of game and truffles. As you are to mask those parts only which are not decorated, take up the fillets with a fork, and dip them into the sauce, but no deeper than the part which you have glazed slightly, in order to render the truffles blacker. When you have dished a large billet and a small one alternately, you mask the filets mignons with the remainder of the sauce, and you put in the middle the truffles cut in the size of a penny, which have been laying in a sauce like that that has been used for the fillets. sauce N. 56.-Velouté, a new Method. · As it is not customary i England, the same as in France, to allow a principal cook six assis- tants or deputies, for half a dozen or even ten entrées, I have thought it incumbent on me to abridge, to the best of my abilities, the various preparations of sauces, &c. &c. I therefore put a few slices of Westmoreland ham at the bottom of a stew-pan, in which I mark a few slices of veal also, and over the veal, loins and parures of fowl. I pour in some good broth till it reaches the veal. (Observe you are not always to mark with grand bouillon, &c. &c. To be brief, I mark a marmite with a large piece of beef, a 32 knuckle of veal, a hen, which I boil till well skimmed. I then season with four carrots, six leeks, three large onions, one of which is stuck with cloves, two heads of celery, four large turnips and a handful of salt. These I stew gently for about four or five hours, then drain the whole through a silk sieve, and keep the liquor either for my soups, or to mouiller my consommé and Espagnole.) When my sauce has been sweated long enough, I mouille it with some boiling-hot broth, and throw into that consommé half a dozen mushrooms, a large bunch of parsley and green onions, and let them stew for an hour and a half. I then drain this consommé through a silk sieve, and reduce it. I have no occasion to use any sauce tournée, because broth gets reduced, without one's being obliged to turn it; and that you must continually watch a sauce that has a thickening in it. I take four spoonfuls of the finest four, which I mix with some good cream, though not too thick. When I have well work- ed my flour, I put about three pints of cream, which I keep turning on the fire that it may boil, before I expose my consommé. When the cream boils I pour in the consommé that I have been reducing, and keep turning my sauce till such time as the flour be done. I add a little salt if requisite, and then I put it through a tammy. 83 This sauce is the fundamental stone, if I may use the expression, of all sorts of little sauces ; especially in England, where white sauces are preferred. From this motive I have left off the former method. In summer time I was not able to procure any butter that was fit to be used. I accordingly was forced to do without, and found out that my sauce was the better for it. You must always keep this sauce very thick, as you may make it thin whenever you like, either with consomnie, or with cream. If it were too thin, it could not be used for so many purposes. N: 57.-Rémoulade ordinaire, et Rémoulade verte. Take two or four eggs, boil them hard, then pound the yolks in a mortar, put a spoonful of mustard, pepper and salt, three spoonfuls of oil, one spoonful of vinegar, and break the yolk of a raw egg, to prevent the remoulade from curdling. The remoulade verte is the same as the other, only you have a ravigotte, composed of chervil, burnet, tarragon, and parsley. Pound all these, and rub the remoulade and ravigotte, en purée, through a tammy. Throw a little verd de persil into the remoulade, to make it look quite green. Add likewise a little cayenne pepper. If approved of, you may put a few chopt shalots. HIT Should you want more sauce, double the quan- tity of your ingredients. N: 58.-Mayonnaise. Take three spoonfuls of Allemande, six ditto of aspic, and two of oil. Add a little tarragon vinegar, that has not boiled, some pepper and salt, and minced ravigotte, or merely some parsley. Then put in the members of fowl, or fillets of soles, &c. Your mayonnaise must , be put to ice; neither are you to put the members into your sauce till it begins to freeze. Next dish your meat or fish, mask with the sauce before it be quite frozen, and garnish your dish with whatever you think proper, as beet root, jelly, nasturtiums, &c. NO 59.-Sauce aux Eufs. Chor two hard eggs which throw into a melted butter, and serve up. N: 60.-Verd d'Epinards. Pick and wash two large handfuls.of spinach ; pound them in a mortar to get all the juice out. Then squeeze the spinach in a tammy, and pour the juice you have procured into a small stew- pan, which put au bain marie, for fear the green juice should boil. Watch it close, as soon as it W 35 is poached, lay it in a silk sieve to drain, and when all the water is drained, use the verd when wanted. N: 61.-Verd de Persil. The same operation as above. Parsley is a necessary ingredient in many sauces to give them an agreeable taste. The verd d'épinards is with out savour, so that it may be used for entremets ; but the verd de persil is intended for entrées and sauces. N. 62.–Sauce à la Pompadour. . Fry white a few chopt mushrooms and shalots in a little butter. When well melted add to them six spoonfuls of sauce tournée, and two spoonfuls of consommé. Stew these for three quarters of an hour on the corner of the stove : skim off the grease, keep your sauce rather thin; then throw in a thickening made of the yolks of three eggs. Mouillez with a spoonful or two of cream ; add a little pepper and salt; work your sauce well. When done have a little par- sley chopt very fine, blanch it, drain it, and let it cool that it may look quite green ; mix it with your sauce, and serve up. A little lemon juice may not be amniss, but be aware that acids will D 2 37 . . rea these in a little velouté, or Allemande. They do not look well in a brown sauce. From this reason they are seen in Macédoines, Chartreuses, pátés de légumes, vol au ventes, &c. If intend- ed for soups, never put them in but the moment you send up. NO 65.-L'Haricot brun. Cut some turnips in the shape of heads of garlic, wash them clean, and stew them with a nice Espagnol, without frying them in butter, as many persons will have them. If your sauce be of a fine brown colour, the turnips will acquire the same. Add a little sugar. With regard to salt it is needless to say, that not one single dish, or sauce, is prepared without, N: 68.-L'Haricot vierge. Cut small turnips in the shape either of corks, of olives, or in any other according to your fancy. Blanch them one single boil in water ; drain them; next stew them with a little sugar, and two spoonfuls of good consommé. - Mind they must stew over a large fire, that they may be reduced speedily; for otherwise they would get too much done. When they are à glace take them out of the fire. Pour in three or four spoonfuls of velouté, according to the new mea D 3 39 of fresh butter, a little salt, half a gill or glass of water, half a spoonful of white vinegar, and a little grated nutmeg. This sauce we put on the fire, when it begins to grow thick, for we do not allow it to boil, for fear it should taste of the flour. Serve up. According to the English way, you mark in a stew-pan with a little four, a small quantity of water, and a little butter: when the butter is melted, without having boiled, you send up. NO 70.-Ragoût à la financière. You must procure cock's combs, cock's kid. neys, fat livers, likewise a few eggs of fowls. The combs are to be scalded in the following manner. Put the whole of them in a towel with a handful of salt, that has not been pounded. Then lay hold of the four corners of the towel, and dip the part wherein is the ragoût into boil- ing hot water. Leave it there for a minute, Then take out the towel. Rub the whole well together, to take off the first skin that is about the combs, and spread your towel open ; if the combs be not skinned sufficiently, dip them into the boiling water a second time; but mind they do not get too firm, because then they never would get white. When they are well skinned, parez the little black points, that the D 4 blood may disgorge. Next dip them into a pint of water, and lay them on the corner of your stove for two hours; yet mind that there is but a very little fire in the said stove. You next blanch them, and put them in a little blanc, by which is meant butter, salt, water, and slice of lemon. Try them frequently with a wooden spuon, lest they should be too much done. The kidneys are not to boil, for then they would break. The eggs are to boil a little, in order that the first skin may come off. Now throw the whole into the blanc. As soon as the combs are done, you have ready a nice Espagnole re- duced, with large 'mushrooms tournée, some small quenelles, which have been poached sepa- rately. Mix the whole together; drain the ragoút, the coinbs, the kidneys, and the eggs. Put the whole in the sauce with the quenelles ; stir gently, not to break the latter; season well, and use this sauce occasionally. NO 71.-La Godard. This is the same ragout as the financière, only it serves to garnish a surloin of beef. You then add pigeons gautiers, larded sweetbreads, and you keep your sauce thinner, as you have nothing to mask. 41 · N72.--La Chambord. This is a ragout like the financière, with this difference, that you inust first reduce a pint of Madeira wine, which you mix with the Espa- gnole. You must also add to the above garnish, soft rows of carp, craw-fish of a large dimension, and introduce a beurre d'anchois into the sauce. The quenelles are to be poached à la cuillière. This to be performed requires too spoons : you fill one with the farce, which has been levelled all round, with a knife dipped into boiling water. With the other spoon, which is lying also in boiling hot water, you take the quenelle out, and put into a stew-pan that has been buttered. When you have thus marked your quenelles, you pour some boiling water into the stew-pan, and boil them for a quarter of an hour. A small quantity of salt is required in the water. Some people will poach the quenelles in broth. In my opinion it is wasting the broth to no purpose. NO 73.-Sauce de Salmi à l'Espagnole, Cut four shalots into large dice, a small carrot the same; chop some parsley roots, a few bits of ham, a clove, two or three leaves of mace, the quarter of a bay leaf, a little thyme, and a small Jump of butter. Put the whole in a stew-pan over a stove with a gentle fire ; let it fry till you perceive the stew-pan gets coloured all round. Then mouillez with half a pint of Madeira wine, and a very small. lump of sugar. Let it reduce to one half. Then put in six spoonfuls of Es- pagnole and the parures of your partridges. Let them stew for an hour on the corner of the stove. Skim the grease off, taste whether your sauce be seasoned enough; drain it over the members, make it hot without its boiling; dish the salmi, and reduce the sauce, which drain through a tammy. Now mask the salmi. USU N: 74.---Beurre d'Ecrevisse. Pound the shells and lesser claws, &c. in a mortar with a good lump of fresh butter, till made into a paste. Put this in a small stew-pan au bain marie. When the paste, pudding, or farce is quite hot, strain it in a tammy over a tureen, or earthen pan, containing fresh water. The beurre d'écrevisse rises above the water. Take it when entirely cold, and use it occa- sionally. NO 75.--Le Beurre d' Anchois. To make this sauce you must have young anchovies. Take them out of the pickling, wash them well. Take off the bones and head: then pound them in a mortar with fresh butter, till very fine; then rub the beurre through a hair sieve ; put it in a cold place, and use it occa- sionally. NO 76.- La Glace. The glace is very seldom made on purpose, except upon particular occasions. Then you Jay on the fire a murmite, with plenty of veal and small quantity of beef and of ham. When stewed for a proper time skim it well. The glace of sweated broth is not so bright. Season the broth with carrots and onions; a large bunch of parsley and green onions; for either turnips or celery give the glace a bitter taste. If you should happen to have a grand dinner, and that you would wish to glaze of a nice colour, put more veal in your Espagnole. The moment it glazes, take part of the glace in a small stew- pan, which is only to serve for the purpose of glazing. The most common glace is made of remnants of broth, the liquor of braize, or fri- candeuux, &c. which are to be reduced on a brisk fire. If you keep your reductions too long, they will become black and bitter. Al- ways warın your glace au bain marie, that it may not get too brown. . 44 NO 77.-La Sauce Robert. Cut your onions into small dice, fry them of a fine brown, mouillez them with some Espa- gnole, or singez and mouillez with some blond de veau. Skim it that your sauce may look bright; put in a little pepper and salt, and just before , you send up mix a spoonful of mustard. NO 78.--La Livernoise Is a Macédoine which you make with some Espagnole, instead of using béchamelle. Re- duce some carrots and turnips à glace, then put them into the Espagnole, but do not let this latter boil. Mind also that the sauce does not taste of the roots, NO 79.—Le Hochepot. TOURNEZ some carrots, and blanch them, in winter time. When they are as yet new, that however may be dispensed with. Fry them white in a little butter, mouillez with the Espa- gnole and a little sugar. Give them a good seasoning, skim the grease, and serve up. NO 80.—La Polonoise. Take some of the liquor in which your pike has been boiling. Mark a little roux blanc, DI MBERS mouillez with the liquor, and reduce over a large fire. Take a pint of thick cream, boil it, and whilst boiling keep turning it constantly, to prevent a kind of skin rising. Mix the whole with your sauce, which is to be kept thick. Have ready some small turnips cut into corks or sticks, that have boiled in a little water with salt and sugar. · Add these to your sauce, taste whether it be duly seasoned, and mask. N: 81.-Les Concombres, or Blanquette. CUCUMBERS are good only when quite young, you must take care, however, that they have not a bitter taste. Those are the best that have a rough shaggy coat. Cucumbers are cooked in various ways, either for sauces or for entremets. It is useless to fry them white in clarified butter, (as practised in France). As soon as they have been parés, stew your pieces in a little sauce tournée and sugar, but do not let them stew too long. Lay them in a hair sieve to drain, reduce the liquor in which they have been stewing, thicken it with the yolks of four eggs. Do not put the cucumbers in the blanquette, till you are going to send up, for your sauce would get too thin, dB NO 82.-Essence de Concombrés. Peel your cucumbers, as above, and keep the parures, which are to be made a purée in alittle butter. When entirely melted, drain the butter, and mouillex with la sauce tournée, in which you have stewed your cucumbers, and which have been drained upon a hair sieve, and covered with a round of paper. Reduce this purée very thick; then mix with it four large spoonfuls of velouté, with a small lump of sugar. You must also put a little sugar when you stew the cucum- bers in the sauce tournée. After having thrown in the velouté, and reduced, you strain your purée through a tammy. Now put in your escalopes, and sautez them in the sauce. If the sauce should happen not to be white enough, pour one or two spoonfuls of thick cream into it. A short time before you send up, you throw your cucumbers into the sauce. Serve hot and well seasoned. This entrée is in high estimation amongst the epicures, but it requires to be paid great atten- tion to, if not it will turn out to be but a very indifferent dish. N: 83.- Les Pois au Blanc. You must procure some very young peas. Such as have a kind of kernel, are liable to break, 0 are SIL and thicken the sauce. Put your peas in an earthen pan, with a small lump of butter, and plenty of fresh water. Handle and shake your peas well in the water, next drain them, and set them to sweat on a little stove, with a small bunch of parsley and green onions. When they are nearly done pour in four or six spoonfuls of sauce tournée ; reduce it over a large fire, thicken it with the yolks of four eggs, and send it up. If the sauce be intended to mask, it must be kept thicker. NO 84.—Les Pois à l'Espagnole. PREPARE as above; the only difference lies in using Espagnole instead of sauce tournée. Be particular in draining the grease before you reduce your sauce. Whenever there are peas in à sauce, you must always put a little sugar. N: 85.-Les Pois au Lard. Cut about a pound of bacon, (the breast part,) fat and lean, into square pieces of about an inch; which boil in water for about half an hour. Then drain them; and next fry them in a pan till they be quite blonds (whitish). You then throw in these square pièces, and mix them with the peas, that you have bandled in butter, ás above. Now let them sweat with a bunch of parsley and green 48 onions. When well sweated, take the aforesaid bunch of parsley out, put in a spoonful of Espa- gnole, with a little sugar and salt. There must be very little sauce, if intended for pois au lard only; but if intended for sauce that will not be the case; it must be thinner. NO 86.-La Sauce au pauvre Homme. This sauce is generally sent up with young roasted turkeys. Chop a few shalots very fine, put in a little pepper, salt, vinegar and water, Send up in a boat. N: 87.-Sauce aux Tomates. Melt in a stew-pan a dozen of love apples. When melted, rub them through a tammy. With this purée, mis a few spoonfuls of good Espagnole, a little salt and pepper, and serve up. N. 88.-Sauce à la Bigarade. Cut off the thin rind only, and quite equally, of two bitter oranges. Blanch it. Now as you have ready a rich Espagnole reduced, throw those rinds, with a small lump of sugar into the Espagnole, and season well. When you are going to send up, squeeze the juice of one of those bitter oranges and a little lemon juice into 49 the sauce, which must be made strong, on account of the acids. N. 89.—La Sauce au Céleri. Cut off the stalks of a dozen licads of celery. Parez all the heads, let them be well washed and white. ; Blanch them. Next stew them in a blanc, with some beef suet, some fat of bacon, . a small lump of butter, a little salt, and lemon juice. When they are done, drain them well, and cut them about an inch long, and put them into some velouté, according to the new method, N. 56. This sauce is not to be too high season- ed, but kept thick for the purpose of masking.. NO 90.-La Pascaline. This sauce was most particularly sent up with lamb or mutton fry. Make an Italienne blanche, which keep rather thin. Thicken it with the yolks of two eggs mixed with the juice of a lemon. A short time before you send up, throw in a little chopt parsley that has been blanched. s ore. N. 91.-Sauce à l'Aurore. Pound the eggs of a lobster'; mix a little butter, and strain the whole through a hair sieve. Take these drainings and mix them with a sauce tournée reduced, and the juice of a lemon. This sauce must be high seasoned with pepper and salt, &c. It is generally sent up with fillets of trout. N: 92.-La Toulouse. You have an Allemande ready; and rather thick. Throw into it a ragoût of cock's combs, kidneys, fat livers, the choicest mushrooms, small quenelles, &c. (See Ragoût à la Finan- cière, NO 70.) N. 93.- La Wasterfisch. WHEN you have stewed your perch with roots of parsley, a few slices of onions, as many shreds of parsley, pepper and salt; drain through a silk sieve part of the seasoning which has been reduced, with four spoonfuls of velouté or be- chamelle. Now take some roots of parsley, cut in the like manner as for the julienne, some carrots the same, let them stew with a little pepper and salt, and water. Then drain them and throw them into the sauce. You must mix a little chopt and blanched parsley with this sauce, together with a large lump of butter, pepper and salt, and very little lemon. Mask your perch, or fillets of soles. san 51 N: 94.-La Sauce aux Huitres. (See Nos 4 and 5.) .. NO 95.-L'Italienne aux Truffes. CHOP some nice black truffles. Sweat them in a little consommé, and mix them with the Italienne rousse, N. 23. If you should have no Italienne ready, stew them for half an hour in an Espagnole only. Let this sauce be kept thin and high seasoned. N: 96.-La Manselle. • MAKE a salmi as indicated above, with this only difference that you pound all the parures and bones, &c. which you put into the sauce when it is done. Drain this purée through a tammy, and pour it over the members of your partridges. This sauce is to be kept hot, with- out boiling; otherwise it will curdle. .. N. 97.-Sauce à la Maréchalle. Take a handful of green tarragon, which boil for ten minutes in four spoonfuls of white vine- gar. Put in a very small lump of sugar, with a little salt. When the vinegar is half reduced, pour in four large spoonfuls of sauce tournée reduced. Now with the vinegar give it one single boil. Drain your sauce through a tammy. E 2 Now add to it a quarter of a pound of fresh but- ter. Work your sauce well, and pour it over the meat or fish, quite hot. This sauce is to be kept rather thick, that it mày adhere either to the meat or fish. . Observations relative to the Sauces. Amongst the number of sauces that have been mentioned, many may be found that are not to be used. But I thought it incumbent upon me to introduce them all, for fear of incurring cen- sure. If four entrées only are to be sent up to table, it would be ridiculous to make prepara- tions, that will answer the purpose of a grand affair. Then instead of using grand bouillon, suage, coulis, &c. merely mark a marmite on the day preceding, or in case you should be at leisure in the forenoon. Take a quantity of meat, a fowl, and a knuckle of veal. When I am to send up a dinner of six or eight entrées, with a view of not carrying the expense to an extreme, I take a nice rump of beef, and about twelve pounds of buttock, a leg and knuckle of veal, and as I wish to have no waste, the rump is used to make a remove; I make gre- nadins, or fricandeau, or quenelles, with the noix of veal. By this means I reduce the expense. On the precedigerening I put in a marmite the 53 twelve pounds of beef, the parure of the rump, a knuckle of veal, and a few other parures if I have any. Now I set this marmite skimming, and season it with two large onions, one of which is stuck with four cloves, three carrots, four large leeks, as many turnips, a head of celery, a little salt, and I leave the whole to stew on a slow fire for five hours. I drain the broth through a silk sieve. I next skim the fat, or grease ; for if the broth of any description be not thus skimmed, it will turn sour in the course of the night. On the next day I mark my sauces with that bouillon; and the day on which I am to serve my dinner, I make another marmite with my rump, a knuckle of veal, and a fowl, seasoned in the same manner as that above. This bouillon I use for my potages and to moisten my braize. I mark in a stew-pan thin slices of ham, and a few slices of veal, moistened with some of my bouillon, which I reduce à glace. When it begins to thicken, so as to stick, I put the stew- pan on a very slow fire, in order that the glace may get a good colour without burning. I then moisten with the broth, to which I add a bunch of parsley and green onions, and a few mushrooms, and stew them for an hour. Next I make roux, which I moisten with the blond de veau, and keep some for the gravy of my rots. I E 3 54 skim all the grease off from my sauce, reduce it, and use it when I have occasion. For white sauces I mark the slices of ham, a few pieces of veal with the bones and remnants of fowl, which I moisten with the same bouillon as I have done my coulis, or my Espagnole. When my meat is sweated through, I cover it entirely with boiling hot broth, season with a bunch of parsley and green onions and a few mushrooms, and stew the whole for an hour and a half. This consommé I use to make either the velouté, N: 56, or la sauce tournée, which is the key to all other thick sauces, &c. . The marmite must be put on the fire at an carly hour. Your rump of beef must be kept hot. Reduce to glaze the broth that you have left after having marqué every article. This glace may serve either to strengthen or to glaze. If you are frequently set to work, you must always have a little glace ready. By this means you have no occasion to reduce your liquor till the following day, and it will serve for the morrow, 55 CHAP. II. POTAGES AND SOUPS, AND TUREENS THAT ARR SERVED WITH SOUPS. N: 1.- Potage de Santé, or au naturel. TAKE some broth (see Sauces) well skimmed, and the fat taken off. Take thin slices of crust of bread cut round the size of a shilling. Soak them separately in a little broth. As you are going to serve up, put the whole into a tureen without shaking it, for fear of crumbling the bread, which would spoil the look of the broth, and make it thick. N; 2.- Potage au consommé of Fowl. Take some consommé of fowl, which clarify, after having mixed with it some blond de veau (see Sauces). Prepare the bread as above. NO 3.- Potage à la Clermont. Take some rich broth, mixed with a little blond de veau, in order to give a nice brown colour to the broth. Take a dozen of small white onions, cut them into rings, and fry them in 56 clarified butter. When they are of a fine colour, drain them on a sieve, throw them into a little broth made hot, to rid them of the butter that might remain. You then mix them with the clarified broth and let them boil for half an hour. Put in thin bits of bread as in N° 1, a little sugar and some salt. Remember that the bread would spoil the look of the broth, if put in whilst the latter is boiling. · N. 4.- Potage à la Julienne. : TAKE some carrots which turn ribband like, and turnips the same, a few heads of celery, leeks, and onions, and cut them all into little fillets thus: 22 Then take about two ounces of butter which lay at the bottom of the stew- pan, and the roots over the butter. Fry them on a slow fire, and keep stirring gently; moisten them with rich broth, and let them boil on the corner of the stove; skim them, put in a little sugar to take off the bitter taste of the roots : you may add green pease, asparagus-tops, French beans, some lettuce, or sorrel. In winter time the taste of these vegetables being too strong, you must blanch them, and immediately after stew them in the broth : if they were fried in butter, then again their taste would be tog strong. Bread as above. 57 NO 5.- La Julienne au consommé de Volaille. As above, you moisten with consommé de volaille, and you put in the back of a roasted chicken, which stew with the roots, but it is to be taken out before you send up. Bread as above. NO 6.-Soupe à la Cressi. Take some carrots, only the red part, turnips, the white of leeks, a few parsneps, onions, heads of celery washed very clean. Mince the whole small, put a bit of fresh butter at the bottom of a stew-pan, and the roots in the butter over a slow fire. Let them sweat long, and keep stir- ring frequently; when they are fried enough to be rubbed through a tammy, add a small crust of bread, which moisten with a broth; let the whole boil gently. When done, skim all the fat and rub the whole through a tammy. Before rent up put in some bread cut in dice, fried in butter till of a light brown, put it to boil in the corner of the stove in order to skim all the grease, and serve up. NO 7.-Soupe à l'Aurore. Take same carrots, the reddest that are to be met with, scrape them well; next wash them clean; then take off the outside till you come to the middle, which is always the most yellow 58 part. Sweat it in about a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, on a very slow fire. When the carrots are soft enough, mix a crust of bread well raspt, which moisten with some good broth. Let the whole boil for about an hour, and then rub it through a tammy, and pour a little more broth in, that it may boil again. Then skim it; when you have taken off the grease, it will be of a reddish colour. Now put in some slices of soft bread cut into dice, and that has been fried in butter till they be of a light brown. NO 8.---La Brunoise. Take some carrots, turnips, &c. cut them into dice, and in summer time fry them in butter ; but in the winter season blanch them. When fried without having lost their original colour, moisten them with rich broth, seasoned with salt and a little sugar, and let the whole boil for about an hour. You may add green pease, asparagus-tops, &c. skim off the grease and put bits of crust of bread the same as No 1, soaked separately in broth. These you put in only the moment you send up, that the bread may not crumble. NO 9.—Soupe à l'Allemande. MAKE a páte à nouilles (see pâte à nouilles) 60 have skimmed off the grease. Slices of bread as above. NO 12.- Soupe à la Carmelite. TAKE some lentils à la reine which prepare as the beans above; when stewed rub them through a tammy; moisten the purée with a little blond de veau, and rich broth. When well skimmed throw in the bread. Send up rather thin as it is liable to thicken when getting cold. NO 13.-Purée de Pois Verds. It is customary in Paris, to take three pints of large pease of a nice green colour, and sweat them over a slow fire till they be thoroughly stewed, then rub them through a tammy, and pour over the purée some rich broth, thin enough however to be skimmed. Leave it on the corner of the stove, for if it were to boil the pease would lose their colour. A verd de persil (see verd de persil) is next prepared and thrown in just at the moment of sending up. Square slices of bread nicely fried are also thrown in. N? 14.—The same made very green. · Take three pints of large green peas, which mix with a little butter in two quarts of water, then drain the water from them and add a large 61 handful of parsley and young onions quite green: let this sweat over a slow fire till quite soft. Pound the whole and rub it through a tammy, moistening at the same time with strong broth. Season with sugar, salt, &c. Let it merely be made hot. The bread cut into squares is to be dipt separately into a little broth. N? 15.-Macaroni au consommé. Take some Naples Macaroni, which boil in water till it be nearly done. Drain it well and put it into a rich consommé. Let it be well done ; rasp some Parmesan cheese, which send up separately in a plate. N. 16.–Lazagnes au consommé. Take Naples lazagnes; boil them in the same manner as the macaroni above, N. 15, let it boil till done, and send the cheese the same. NO 17.- Potage au Riz, or Rice Soup. Take a quarter of a pound of Carolina rice, which pick clean and wash in two or three dif- ferent waters, that no dirt may remain, which would spoil the savour of the soup. Blanch it in water, and drain it. Then take some rich broth, skim it, season it well, throw the rice into the broth, but do not let it boil too long. 62 NO 18.--Riz aux différentes purées. The rice is to be prepared as above : only mix it with the purée you have chosen, an hour before you send up, in order that the rice may retain the taste and colour of the vegetables. The purées intended for soups are not to be as thick as those that are intended for sauces. Those that are most generally used are, purée of carrots, turnips, celery, white beans, red ditto, lentils, green peas, the cressi, &c. N19.-Vermicelli Soup. For eight people take a quarter of a pound of vermicelli, which blanch in water to take off the tas e of dust. Next throw it into some broth that is boiliny, otherwise the vermicelli would curdle, and could no longer be diluted unless erumbled into a thousand pieces. All purées used as above. Mind, the vermicelli must be stewed before you mix it with the purée. 22 N: 20.- Italian Pastes. Take Italian pastes and prepare them as above, N. 19, and as follows, NO 21. N. 21.-Vermicelli à la Reine. BLANCH the vermicelli and throw it into some rich consommé well seasoned. When done, a 63 short time before you send it up, thicken it witla the yolks of eight eggs, mixed with some cream, and pour the vermicelli into the tureen for fear the thickening should get too much done. N° 22.-Bouillon de Navets. The bouillon de navets, is made with about a dozen of turnips, which peel and cut into slices. Blanch them for a short time in water; mark a knuckle of veal, a small piece of beef, the half of a fowl, and the turnips in a stew-pan; and pour some rich broth over the whole. Let the whole stew for about two hours. Then strain it through a double silk sieve, and use it as for rice, vermicelli, &c. &c. NO 23.- Potage à la Reine: a new Method. For twelve people take in preference three fat chickens or pullets, which are generally better than fowls : skin them, take out the lungs, wash them clean, and mark them in a pan with a bunch of parsley only; moisten the whole with good boiling broth: let it stew for an hour and a half, then take out the chickens : soak the crumb of two penny loaves in the broth; take off the flesh of the chickens, and pound it with the yolks of three or four eggs boiled hard, and the crumb of bread which has been sufficiently 64 soaking in the broth. Rub the whole through a tammy; then take a quart of cream, which lay on the fire, and keep stirring continually till it boils. Pour it into the soup. It is not liable to curdle as when the other method is used, and it tastes more of the chickens. If you think proper to add either barley, rice, or vermicelli, let it stew in broth, and only pour it into the soup when quite done. NO 24.- Semouille au Consommé. BOIL some consommé and throw the semouille into it. If you are inclined to mix a purée with it, keep the semouille thin. You may use any purée whatever, the same as with rice. N? 25.- La Créme de Riz. This is four of rice which you make yourself in the following manner. Take a pound of rice, which wash in different waters; then drain it and wipe it with a clean towel. Let it get quite dry; then pound and shake it through a sieve. Take one or two spoonfuls of this four, and dilute it with broth, rather cold than hot. All this time you have some broth on the fire ; throw the flour of rice thus diluted into the broth; " and keep stirring till you find the soup is not too thick and may loil without the rice burn- 65 ing. This same kind of rice flour may serve for soufflés. (See Entremets.) NO 26.-La Garbure au Pain de Seigle. Take a knuckle of ham, but it must be void of any bad smell, a knuckle of veal, and about six pounds of flank of beef, which mark in a pan, with an onion stuck with two cloves, a few carrots, &c. pour over the above two ladles of broth, and let the whole sweat over a slow fire. When the meat is hot to the middle, you cover it entirely with boiling broth, and let the whole stew for three hours. Then take one or more cabbages which are to be washed clean and blanched. Braize them between layers of bacon, and moisten them with the liquor in which the sweating has been made, drained through a silk sieve. You must observe that if the cabbages are not made rich and mellow they are good for nothing. You may add to the above either sausages, bacon, or stewed legs of geese if you have any: mind above all things that the cabbage be not too briny, for the soup then would not be eatable. When the cabbage and broth are stewed enough, cut very thin slices of rye bread: drain the cabbage in a cloth that there be no grease left; then take a silver dish, lay a bed of bread, over that one of cabbage, and moisten these with a little broth ; let them gratiner on a slow fire. When the cabbage and bread are sufficiently moistened, lay on six or eight beds more of each. Send up with the ham at the top in the middle; the bacon and sausages on the borders, and some broth sepa- rately. N27.-Potage aux Choux à la Françoise. Take four or six cabbages, with curling leaves ; wash thein clean, blanch and braize them with a little seasoning; observing however that for a soup they are not to be so high seasoned as for an entrée. Your soup may be prepared as in N' 1. Cut the cabbages into quarters, and put them in the soup when the latter is in the turcen. N. 28.—Potage aux Choux à l'Allemande. Take a white cabbage, mince and wash it well, and let it sweat on a slow fire in a little butter. When it begins to get tender and to be a little reduced, you moisten it with a little broth and blond de veau very clear: skim the grease, and when the soup gets of a fine brown colour, throw in slices of bread cut into liards thus (), and send up. No 29.- Soupe à la Bonne-Fermë. TÅKE two handtuls of sorrel; after having taken off the stalks put the leaves one above another and mince them. Take the hearts of two or three cabbage-lettuces, which mince likewise. Wash the whole well, then take about two ounces of fresh butter, and let your herbs melt as it were in the butter. When so, moisten with a little broth, and let it boil for an hour. Skim off the grease, and throw in a little sugar, to take off the acidity of the sorrel. Then thicken your soup with the yolks of eight eggs, mixed with a little cream. Be mindful to keep a little broth for the bread to soak in, for this could not be bocomplished in broth when thickened. NO 30.--Potage aux Nouilles. TAKE a handful or two of four with which mix a little salt, the yolk of three eggs, a little water and a small lump of butter. Let this paste be as compact as possible. Spread it very thin on the table, next cut it into small slices as à Julienne; then blanch it in water, drain it and let it cool, in order to get rid of the flour which might spoil the look of the soup. Throw the paste into some rich broth, and let it stew till it be mellow. You may introduce either 68 some bouillon de navets, or purée as above. (See Nos. 21 and 22.) NO 31.—Soupe à la Borgosse. · This soup, although a potage de desserte has some admirers, even amongst the first epicures. Suppose you have left in the larder a small quantity of potage au riz, potage au pois verds, and potage à la bonne femme. Mix and make them hot, yet without boiling as the thickening would most undoubtedly curdle. Rub the whole · through a tammy, and put it in a stew-pan au bain marie. Then boil some green Windsor beans; when done, skin them, and throw them into the soup, the moment you are going to send up, pour in some bits of bread cut into dice, fried in butter and well drained. NO 32.- Potage an Lait Lié. Boil a quart of milk, wherein infuse a leaf of laurier-amonde some sugar and a little salt. Thicken the above with the yolks of six eggs the moment you are going to send up. As to the bread, crumb only is used in this instance, which is to be shaped with a cutter, and glazed at the oven with sugar. Those latter láy in the tureen, as they are not to be boiled. 69 ; . NO 33.-Potage au Lait d'Amande. Boil a quart of milk as above, seasoned with a little salt. The bread as in NO 32. Take a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds, a dozen of bitter ditto, which put in het water, then peel them and pound them in a mortar, and moisten with a little milk to prevent their turning into oil. When sufficiently fine, or crumbling, rub, them through a tammy, and throw them into the soup, in lieu of a thickening. Mind they must not boil. NO 34.—La Tortue. Turtle Soup. If you wish to make your turtle soup with less difficulty, cut the head off on the preceding day. In the morning open the turtle, that is, lean heavy with your knife on the shell of the animal's back, whilst you cut it off all round. Then turn it straight on its bottom, that all the water, &c. may run out. Then cut the flesh off along the spine, with your knife sloped towards the bones, for fear of affecting the gall, which sumetimes might escape your eye, but spoils the taste of the turtle. When you have pro- cured all the flesh that is about the members, wash them clean, and let them drain. Have ready a large vessel full of boiling water on the fire, put the shells into that water, and when F 3 you perceive that they come off easily, take thema out from the water, and prick all the shells of the back, belly, fins, head, &c. Boil the back and belly in water till you can take off the bones, without however allowing those parts to be done enongh which contain nerves. When these latter come off easily you lay them on dishes of common-ware singly, for fear they should stick together. Keep part of the liquor wherein you have blanched those nerves, and let the bones stew thoroughly in the said liquor. The whole flesh or meat of the interior parts, the four legs and head, sweat in the following manner. Take a few slices of ham, which lay on the bottom of a very large stew.pan. Lay. over the ham as much veal as you possibly can; that is to say, a leg of veal cut in different pieces, then over the veal the inside flesh of the turtle, and the members over the whole. Then partly moisten the whole, with the water where you are boiling the shell, and sweat it thoroughly. Then moisten it again with half the liquor in which the bones, &c. have been boiling, put in a large bunch of all such sweet herbs as are used in the cooking of a turtle. Let the whole get thoroughly done. With respect to the mem- bers, probe them, to see whether they are done, and when done drain them, and send them to the larder, as they are to make their appearance only when the sauce is absolutely completed, When the sauce is also completely done, drain it through a silk sjeve ; make a roux blanc (see sauces) very thin; whereas turtle soup must not be much thiekened, when the flour is sufficiently done on a slow fire, moisten it with the sweating put through a silk. By this time all the parts to which there were nerves attached, are become cold; cụt them about an inch square without waste, mix the whole with the sauce, which must simmer gently. Then try them again, for if done enough, they are not to be kept on the fire. Next take a small quantity of the herbs, which are to be chopped fine for a turtle of 1 20 lbs, weight. Take four bottles of Madeira, which reduce to two. Let the sweet herbs boil. in the wine with a little sugar, to take off the tart savour of the wine and of the herbs: then rub them through a tammy and pour that over the turtle sauce, and let the whole boil for a short time. Then make some quenelles à tortue, which being substitutes for eggs, require not being very delicate. They are made in the fol- lowing manner. Take a sous noix of veal, scrape off all the meat, without leaving any nerves or fat, soak in milk about the same quantity of erụmbs of bread. When the bread is well soaked, squeeze it, and put it into a mortar, with the F4 veal, a small quantity of udder of veal, a little butter, the yolks of four eggs, boiled hard, a little cayenne pepper, salt, spices, and pound the whole very fine. Then thicken the mixture with two whole eggs, and the yolks of another. Next try the farce in boiling hot water; and if too thin you add the yolk of an egg. When the farce is in perfection, take one half of it where- in introduce a verd de persil. Let the whole cool, in order to roll it of the size of the yolk of an egg; which poach in water, and put it into the turtle. Before you send up, squeeze the juice of two or three lemons, with a little cayenne pepper, and pour that into the soup. The fins may be served as a plat d'entrée with a little sauce de tortue; if not on the day fol- lowing you warm the turtle au bain marie, and serve the members entire. When either lemon juice, or cayenne pepper have been introduced, - no boiling must take place. Some people require besides, fricandeaux, blan- quette, &c. all of which are prepared in the same manner as veal. (See fricandeau, blan- quettes.) N. 35.- Potage Printanier. Take carrots, turnips, heads of celery, and small onions, cut into the shape of olives, blanch C 73 el 2 them, in winter; but in summer, fry them with a little butter, and put them to boil in clear, broth, with a little sugar. Now you have ready green tops of asparagus, and French beans cut into lozenges, which are boiled in water very green, and put into the soup when you send up, with slices of bread cut en liards, soaked sepa- rately in a little broth; if you have any peas, you may put in some likewise. N° 36.-Potage à la Jardinière. . This is like all other Printanières, only add leaves of sorrel and lettuce, without the stalks. NO 37.--Potage en Hochepot aux Navets. Take a loin of mutton, cut off all the ribs to put into the soup, which is to be made in the following manner. Take the parures of the chops, with a knuckle of veal, which mark in a stew-pan with leeks, a few turnips, and shred parsley. Moisten the whole with 'good broth. Let it stew for two hours; then boil the chops thoroughly in that broth, in order that they discharge no scum in your broth. You then have some pearl barley boiled in water. · Drain it well, put it into a stew-pan with the mutton broth, drained through a silk sieve. You like- wise have a few turnips, cut into dice, which you put with the pearl barley when the turnips 74 are nearly done enough. Now drain the chops, and give them a few boils with the barley and turnips. Serve up the chops, ribs, or cutlets, as you please to call them, in the soup, and pour in a little parsley chopt very fine. NO 38.—Potage en Hochepot. Take some carrots, and turnips, which cut into the shape of small corks or otherwise, Blanch them and put them into some nice brown broth. Then let them boil for about an hour, Now you have a few inutton chops which have been doing separately, because otherwise, they would make the broth look white. Throw them into the soup, with the bread as in N. 1, Serve up hot, and without any grease. 12 N. 39.-La Tête de Veau en Tortue. SEE Relevé de Potage. NO 40.---Potage à la Bauveau. TAKE some turnips, peel them, and use a cutter with which you cut out a few balls as rivind as possible, but very small. Blanch them, and boil them in some consommé, well clarified, with a little sugar Serve up with bits of bread as in N. 1, soak singly, not to spoil the look of the soup, which 'must appear very bright, and put to it twospoonfuls of blond de veaua TUREENS THAT ARE SERVED WITH SOUPS. N! 1.-Fricassée de Poulets. The fricassée de poulets à la paysanne, with small onions and chopt parsley. (See fricassée, entrées de volailles.) N? 2.—Macaroni with Parmesan Cheese.) TAKE some macaroni from Naples, which stew in water, salt and butter. When it is done put in a stew-pan a good lump of butter, some raspt Parmesan cheese, some gruyère or Swiss cheese likewise, a little pepper, and a spoonful of cream. Sautez your macaroni til the cheese be well mixed with it; then pour it into a tureen; powder some raspt cheese over it, baste it with a little butter, and use the salamander to make it brown, for the butter would turn to oil if you were to bake it in the oven. maca N. 3.–Giblotte of Rabbits. THERE are two different ways of making a giblotte of rabbits ; it may be made either white or brown. (See entrées de gibier.) . . . 76 NO 4.-Breast of Lamb with green Peas. :. Braize the whole breast, when it is done take out the small bones, flatten it between two dishes, and let it cool. Now cut it into the size of small chops, and warm them in a little con- sommé: next drain and glaze them, and mask them with your peas in the following manner. Take some very fine peas, which you handle in water with a little fresh butter; you next drain them, then sweat them over a very slow fire, with a small slice of ham, and a bunch of. parsley and green onions. When they are nearly done, take out the ham and the parsley and onions, and reduce them in a good Espagnola and a little sugar. They are used to mask the meat. N5.—Breast of Lamb with Peas, au blanc, TAKE a breast of lamb which braize as above. Stew your peas in the same manner; but instead of using the Espagnole you must use the sauce tournée. Thicken your sauce with the yolks of two eggs that it may look whiter. (See Sauces.) N: 6.— Tendrons of Veal with Peas. - (See entrées de veau.) I only mention them, here as they are sent up as tureens. The peas. are prepared as above. (See Sauces.) NO 7.-Tendrons of Veal, en Haricots Vierges. Braize them as indicated (entrées de veau), and mask them with an haricot vierge. (See Sauces.) N8.Tendrons of Veal en Chipolata. Braize you tendrons as above. The chipolata is made in the following manner. You have peeled and boiled some chesnuts ready. Take a few small sausages, some small onions stewed à blanc, likewise bits of bacon, the breast part, cut into corks, and also stewed à blanc, and some mushrooms which you stew with some sauce tournée. When your sauce is in a proper state of forwardness, thicken it; put in all your ingre- dients, and after having dished your tendrons in the shape of a well, you put the chipolata in the middle, but keep some of your sauce to mask the tendrons. You may add some cock’s-combs, &c. NO 9.— Tendrons en Chipolata au roux. Prepare as above, but use Espagnole instead of sauce tournée. You may add a few truffles, NO 10.--Les Pois au Lard. These may be served as a tureen without any other meat; but they may also serve as a sauce for tendrons either of veal or of lamb, members of fowl, and giblets of turkey. It is to be ob served, however, that those articles which serve as tureens must be cut, as you could not carve them in a soup. Take some bacon, the breast part, which cut about an inch square, boil them in water to extract the salt, then fry them in a little butter till they be of a fine brown. You next handle some fine peas and a little fresh butter in cold water. After having drained them, you put them in a stew-pan with your bacon, and a bunch of parsley and green onions. Then let them sweat over a slow fire. When nearly done moisten them with two or three spoonfuls of · Espagnole and a little sugar. Boil them a few minutes. Send up either with or without any other meat. NO 11.-Breast of Mutton en Haricot. Braize the breast of mutton as you would do a breast of lamb. Take out the small bones and let the breast cool. Then let your meat be cut into hearts ; warm them again separately in a little consommé, and after having drained them, mask them with the haricot. (See Sauces.) NO 12.-Breast of Mutton en Hochepot. · Braize it as above, and mask it with a hoche- pot. (See Sauces.). : NO 13.- Pluck of Lamb à la Pascaline. , i Take the head, trotters, liver, lights, &c. bone the head and trotters as well as you can. Set them to disgorge and blanch them. Then stew them in a blanc as you would do a calf's head. . When thoroughly done put them in your pasealine, which is no other thing than an Ita- lienne blanche, that you have thickened. (See Sauces.) NO 14.- Le Civet de Liévre Is only mentioned here, to imply that it is sent up as a tureen. (See entrées of gibier.) Nº 15.—Les Cuisses d'Oie à la purée de Pois verds. Take and bone the legs of fat geese ; braize them; season them well. When they are done, mask them with the purée of green peas. (See Sauces.) N 16.-Cuisses d'Oies à ta Choucroute. SOURCROUT is sold ready pickled. Drain some , and mark it in a braizing-pan with a small piece of bacon, (the breast part) a bunch of parsley and green onions, seasoned with spices, bay leaves, thyme, and mace. With the sourcrout -put a little whole pepper. Now put the legs of 80 geese in the middle of the sourckout, cover the whole with layers of bacon, and moisten with rich liquor of braize, or top-pot, drained through a silk sieve. If you should have the knuckle of a ham, you niay put it in after having blanched it. Three hours are required for all the above to be done over a slow fire. When the sour- crout is done, put it in a large hair sieve to drain; then dish it, that is, put it into the tureen with the legs of geese in the middle, the sausages and baconall round, and sauce with an Espagnole. N: 17.- Cuisses d'Oie à la Choucroute Française. Braize the legs in the same manner as those à la purée de pois verds, and mask them with the choucroute Française, which is made as fol- lows. Take off the stock of a white cabbage, mince the whole nearly as is done with regard to sourcrout; cut some bacon (the breast part) into small squares of about an inch ; fry your bacon a little, and then take it out to put your cabbages into that grease, in which they are to sweat. When nearly done put the bacon in again and moisten with some thin sauce tournée, because if it were thick you could not get the grease off. Reduce your cabbage, and use them to mask the legs of geése. You may also put in some sausages that have been braized with the legs of geese. 81 N? 18.-Giblets of Turkey en Haricot. We call giblets of turkey, the pinions, the neck, the liver, the gizzard, &c. When all those parts have been washed clean, mark them in a stew-pan. Wrap them up in layers of bacon; moisten with good broth and a little salt. When done, drain ther, and after having placed them in the tureen, cover them with l'haricot brun. (See Sauces.) N. 19 —Pinions of Turkey en Haricot.' Take the pinions of half a dozen turkeys. Bone them as far as the middle joint, and then let them disgorge in warm water: next blanch them, and after having singed them, mark them well wrapt up in layers of bacon, and moisten with a braize, if you have any ; if not with a small bit of butter, a little broth and salt, one onion and two cloves. When done, drain them and mask with the haricot brun. N: 20.–Membres de Volailles aux Nouilles, : When you have a large dinner to send up, you necessarily have a vast quantity of fillets of fowl, and as the legs may be used for the en- trées, you must use them in preference for a tureen. Bone the thighs, seasoned well inside, and sow them up so as to give them a gcod 82 shape. You next braize them as white as pos- sible, and sauce them with the nouilles. (See Sauces.) N° 31.-Le Hachi de Volaille à la Turque. 'The hachis of fowl, and the purées of game, may serve as tureens. (See entrées de volaille et de gibier.) NO 22.-Les Eufs à la Tripe. Take a dozen of eggs boiled hard, cut them into thick round slices, and put them into the sauce, which is to be made as follows. Cut three large white onions into dice; fry them white in butter. When they are nearly done powder them well over with flour, and moisten with some good milk, and a few spoonfuls of cream. Keep stirring with a wooden spoon to prevent their burning. When your sauce is done, grate a little nutmeg into it, and season with a little salt and pepper, &c. then throw your eggs in and send up. NO 23.-Eggs à la Créme en Surprise. Take a dozen of eggs boiled hard, and cut them in two. Then take out the yolks which strain through a hair sieve. Chop the whites very fine, and make a sauce à la créme, which e e 83 is marked as a sauce blanche, except that yon , moisten it with cream. When your sauce is well done, you add to it a lump of butter, throw your chopt whites into your sauce, and season it well. You then pour the sauce and whites into the tureen, and mask the whole with the yolks, which you baste with a little butter, and make them brown with a red hot shovel.. NO 24.-La Morue à la Maitre d'Hotel. TAKE, some salt cod and let it lie in water to draw out the salt. Then scrape it well all over, and let it be done without boiling. When done drain it and scollop it in a maitre d'hôtel. (See Sauces.) In order to prevent continual repetitions, and to save a great expence in the publication of this work, I have thought proper to use references, so that the price may be within every body's reach. NO 25.- La Queue de Beuf en Hochepot. Beef tail is very good eating, but in general it is seldom sent up as entrée although en hoche- pot, et en haricot (see Sauces) they may be served as tureens. The beef tail is to be cut in the joints, and left to disgorge in water. It must next be blanched. You then let it cool, G 2 84 and mark it between layers of bacon, to prevent its getting black. Season it with carrots, onions, &c. When done drain it, and serve up with the sauces above-mentioned. NO 26.--The same en Haricot brun... BRAIZE as above, and mask with l'haricot brun. (See Sauces.) NO 27.-The same, aux Petits Pois. The same as in N. 25, másk with pais au Jard. (See No 10 above) 85 CHAP. III. . . REMOVES OF THE SOUPS AND FISH, BOTH IN THE FRENCH AND IN THE ENGLISH WAY. NO 1.-De la Culotte, or the Rump of Beef . : au Naturel. Bone it, tie it round with packthread, and boil it in the same pot in which you make the broth. When done drain it a quarter of an hour before dinner time, that you may trim it well and glaze it several times. Dish it with parsley all round. Several people braize the rump of beef, 'which I do not approve, as it gets too high, seasoned for people who have so many other things to eat. The sauces and garnitures that are served at the same time are sufficiently seasoned, without the beef being so likewise. Besides the first method is the most economical as the rump braize furnishes too rich liquor to be used in delicate cooking. Moreover when boiled с 3 86 le in the common way, the rump is more whole- some, makes more broth, and therefore deserves the preference. However, not to disappoint such as might like it, I shall proceed to treat of NO 2.- La Culotte of Beef à la Flamande. Take a culotte of beef well covered with fat: bone it, tie it up with packthread. Then put up layers of bacon at the bottom of a braizing- pan ; lay the culotte of beef with its top part upwards on the bacon : next cut into slices a large quantity of veal, which serve to wrap up the beef; then cover the whole with layers of bacon, put in some carrots, onions, parsley, young onions, thyme, bay-leaves, mace, cloves, spice, salt, and pepper. Moisten with a little broth; then close the brazing-pan as hermeti- cally as possible, and let the meat stew on a slow fire for four hours ; then drain and glaze it with some of the liquor, which reduce without loss of time. Then take some carrots cut in the shape of corks, and turnips ditto, which are to stew singly, as the turnips are tenderer than the carrots ; if they were put together they would break. They must be served up glazed. Add likewise some glazed onions, braized lettuce, and put all those roots and vegetables round the culotte, in small lumps, then send up with a very thin Espagnole, well seasoned. (See Sauces.) NO 3.-Breast of Beef à la Flamande: TAKE that part of a breast of beef where are the tendrons; cut it into square pieces of the size you suppose a person may eat. Blanch it, put layers of bacon at the bottom of a brazing- pan, and over them the pieces of beef, likewise of petit lard that has been blanched and seasoned the same as the rump. Take some carrots and turnips cut in the shape of corks, and cabbages that are to be braized separately. When the beef is done, drain all the vege- tables, and dress them like a draught board, that is to say, put a piece of beef, next a piece of bacon, then some carrots, and next a square of turnips, all of which have been stewed in the braise. The cabhages are to be laid round the dish, and sauce them with an Espagnole, the same as the culotte. You should also have some small vegetables boiled to glaze, which you spread over after having poured the sauce, as braized roots and vegetables are not pleasing to the eye. This breast of beef may be sent up whole, the same as the culette, Nº 1 and 2, garnished with glazed onions, cabbage and sausages, hoche- pot, petty patties à la Mazarine; lettuce glazed à l'Espagnole, artichoke bottom ditto, cauli. flowers, &c. &c. ..G 4 88 NO 4.-Aloyau, or Surloin à la Godard. Take that part which is next to the culotte, turn it upside down leaving a large quantity of fat on the filet mignon; cut off the nerve if you wish to lard the fillet, which latter however is not requisite. Mark it in a very large brazing- pan : trim it with plenty of veal, bacon, carrots, onions, parsley, thyme, bay-leaves, spices, and let the whole stew for four hours over a very slow fire. When done drain it; slit the filets mignons, and put into the slits cock's-combs and slices of tongue à l'écarlate. (Vide tongues à l'écarlate.) Then garnish with a godard, which is made in the same manner as a chambord. N: 5.-L'Alloyau roasted. The only observation and direction required with regard to this article, is, that part called the loin is the most delicate. N? 6.-A Quarter of Mutton roasted. We call a quarter of mutton the leg and half of the saddle all of one piece, but it is not cus- tomary to send it up so in England, where the leg alone is served; this latter method I deem the best, as the saddle not requiring being done equally with the other part, of course one of the two must be void of savour. 89 NO 7.--Leg of Mutton braizée, otherwise Gigot de Sept Heures. · Mark the leg of mutton in a braizière; trim it with a little veal, a few carrots, onions, and a bunch of parsley and green onions, properly -seasoned. Cover the whole with thin slices of bacon, to prevent its being burnt. Let it stew for about four hours: then take the liquor which strain through a silk sieve ; reduce it to glaze the leg of mutton, which you send up with glazed onions, or white beans à la maitre d'hôtel, or à la Lyonnaise. NO 8.--Loin of Veal roasted. Take a fine loin of veal, which cut quite square. Introduce attelets, or skewers, in the flank, which you have rolled up. Then fix it on the spit, and cover it with buttered paper. Take the paper off about a quarter of an hour before you send the joint up, that it may be of a nice brown colour. Gravy alone is requisite under the joint. - N9.-Loin of Veal en surprise. The same as above, only it will happen that the master takes off part of the fillet; in this case you cut off the remainder, and make an emincé (see emincé) which you throw into a kind 90 of guttar you have prepared, and when this emincé is nearly cold, you then panez the loin entirely with a sauce à attelets. (See Sauce à Attelet.) Cover the sauce with crumbs of bread, and next drain some melted butter over it; then have another bed of crumbs of bread, and repeat the operation of the butter. The only thing to be done now, is to put the loin into the oven till it be of a nice brown colour, and to serve it up with gravy to give it a relish. Nº 10.- Loin of Veal à la Crême. The same as the first, N: 8. As soon as it is done, take off the fillet and cut it in scollops, which throw into the sauce à blanquette. (See Sauce à blanquette.) Pụt this blanquette in the aperture, and send up with the same sauce under it. N11.-Calf's Head au naturei. Take a nice calf's head and bone it, that is to say, take off the bones of the lower jaw, and of the nose, which you cut off, as close to the eyes as possible. You then put all this into a large vessel with warm water, to wash off the blood, which otherwise would make the head look reddish. Then blanch it thoroughly and let it cool. Now make a blanc in the following 91 manner. One pound of guet of beef, cut into dice, one pound of fat bacon, also cut into dice, half a pound of butter, the juice of a lemon, salt and pepper, one or two onions, a bunch of par- sley, seasoned with thyme, bay-leaves, cloves, mace, all-spice, and water enough to cover the calf's head. When the blanc has boiled for an hour, fold the head up in a clean towel, let it boil in that blanc for about three hours. When done drain it. Take out the tongue, flay it, and then replace it. A calf's head must be served up quite hot, with a sauce called au puwre homme, namely minced shalots, parsley ditto, vinegar, salt and pepper, with the brains well minced in the above sauce. NO 12.- Calf's Head. Sauce aux Tomates. , The same as in N. 11. With this difference only that it is to be masked with a sauce aux Tomates. (See Sauces.) N? 13.-Calf's Head bigarée. Take a nice calf's head which prepare as in N? 11; drain it whilst hot, to be enabled to give it a good shape; then divide it into two parts, which squeeze hard between two dishes, and let them cool. When quite cold, dip one half into the yolks of four eggs well beaten up with butter, and a little salt and pepper, then into crumbs 92 of bread. This is to be repeated twice. Do the same with the other half, only add plenty of chopped parsley to the crumbs of bread, that it may be made quite green. Next put both halves into an oven till they be of a nice brown colour, and serve up with either a poivrade, an Italienne, or a sauce aux Tomates. (See Sauces.). NO 14.-Calf's Head du Puits certain. Boxe a calf's head. Make a farce with veal, fat bacon, and sweet herbs, chopped fine and high seasoned. When this farce is made stuff the calf's head with it, and sow it up all round, to - prevent the stuffing from dropping out : then wrap it up in a cloth, and stew it à la braize; that is to say, you put it in a braizing-pan with abun- dance of slices of veal, and layers of bacon, seasoned with carrots, a bunch of parsley, thyme, bay-leaves, and spices. Let it stew for four hours, and serve up with a financière mixed with a glass of Madeira. (See Sauces) NO 15.- Calfs Head en Tortue. The head dressed as in N. 11, Let it cool, then cut the most nervous parts into square pieces, which throw into a ragoút de financière (see Sauces) thinner however than if it were used for sauce. Reduce a little Madeira with an equal quantity of consommé, which mix with the 93 soup. Add a little cayenne pepper and lemon juice. NO 16.--Calf's Head à la Chambord. Dress it as indicated N? 13. When done and drained take pieces of pickled cucumbers cut into kind of nails, with which lard the head, then mask it with a financière garnished with larded sweetbreads, large quenelles (see Sauces) and pigeons à la gautier. N: 17.-- Farm-Yard Turkey à la Montmorenci. Take a large fat farm-yard turkey: truss it up as if it were to be poëlé, dip the breast into boiling hot water to make it firm, so as to enable you to lard it nicely; then braize it with a good fire on the cover of the pan, that the bacon may get dry and retain the glace better when you glaze the turkey. Take care it is not done too much, drain it, and serve up with a financière of a fine light brown colour and well seasoned. NO 18.Turkey Sauce au Céleri, Truss it nicely, wrap it up into layers of bacon; then boil it in plain water with a little salt, butter, and lemon-juice. Drain it, and mask it with la sauce au céleri, (See Sauces, 94 NO 19.--Turkey à la Périgueur. . Take a nice fat turkey. The moment it has been killed, empty it, and put plenty of salt inside of the body. Then let it cool, and pre- pare some truffles in the following manner. Take a large quantity, peel them, and smell whether they be all of a good flavour. Then pick out the smallest, which chop very fine. Take some fat white bacon, and rasp it so as to procure the fat only without the nerves. When you have thus rasped a sufficient quantity to fill the body of the turkey, stuff the turkey with the chopped truffles and bacon seasoned with salt, spices, pepper, and cayenne pepper, well mixed together. Sow the turkey up, and keep it in the larder for about a fortnight, so long as it retains a fine flavour. Then roast it well, wrapt up in layers of bacon and covered with paper, &c. Serve up with a purée of chesnuts à brun. (See Sauces.) N20.-Fowls à la Condé. Take a couple of fine white fowls, empty them, take off the bone of the breast, and the nerves of the legs, then truss them, and intro- duce within the body a little butter seasoned with lemon juice and salt, which will make the fowls look well and whiter. Next mark them in 95 a stew-pan trimmed with layers of bacon, cover them well and pour over them a poële, which is made in the following manner. Take a pound of veal, cut into dice, the same as a pound of fat bacon, and a little ham. Fry the whole white in half a pound of butter. Moisten the whole with pale broth; season with a bunch of parsley, salt, and pepper, and when sufficiently stewed drain it through a hair sieve over the fowls, which stew for three-quarters of an hour over a slow fire, but keep a brisk fire on the cover of the stew-pan. When done drain them, next dish them with a tongue à l'écarlate in the middle, and the sauce à la financière... NO 21.- Fowls à la Montmorenci ARE prepared the same as fowls à la Condé, in every other respect, but the breast of these is to be larded, and glazed of a fine colour: garnish with larded sweetbreads, quenelles à la cuillière, &c. and a ragoût à l'Allemande for sauce. NO 22.- Capons à la Turque. : Take two white capons, empty them and put them into warm water that they may dis- gorge the blood, which would otherwise pro- duce a great deal of scum. You have ready some rice which has boiled till soft in rich con- 96 . sommé, put this rice into the body of the capons. Then truss them, cover them with layers of bacon, wrap them up into paper, aud spit them. When done dish them with a garnish of soft rice, and a velouté for sauce... NO 23.-Westphalia Han à l' Essence. TAKE a small Westphalia ham, and trim it well. Be particular in sawing off the knuckle in order not to break the bone into splin- ters. Keep it a couple of days in water to take out the brine, and boil it in plain water for four hours. When done drain it, and take off the rind, then give it a nice round form. You then put it in the oven for a few minutes to dry the fat; which otherwise could not be glazed properly. When quite dried, glaze it of a fine colour, and serve under it an essence. (See Sauces.) NO 24.-Ham au Vin d'Espagne. Tare in preference a Bayonne ham, which you prepare in the same manner as indicated above: but it needs not being left só long in water, as it is not so briny as the Westphalia hams are. Blanch it in water only during two hours. Then drain it and mark it in a brazière trimmed with thin slices of veal at the bottom, 98 is to be larded the same as the fillet. Roast them, and glaze the larded parts of a good colour. In France we serve it up with maitre d'hotel, but in England you send up with gravy under it, and in a sauceboat mint-sauce with sugar and vinegar. N? 27.- Saddle of Mutton, or Roast Beef de Mouton. The same preparation as above. This is only sent up in particular cases, when large dishes are wanted to cover a table of extraordinary magni- tude, or to display the prodigality of the host. NO 28.-Saddle of Faun, or Chevreuil. The same as No 27. When larded, put it in a very large vessel with salt, pepper, and onions cut into slices, parsley, vinegar, &c. Leave it thus to pickle for two or three days, taking great care however to turn it frequently on every side. You then roast it, and send up with a poivrade under it. N. 29.—The Haunch of Venison. It was customary in France to cut off a small rosette from the leg and to lard it, then to pickle it. In England it is the common way to lay it on the spit, then to make some paste with four and water only, and to wrap the venison into that paste, which is secured by a few sheets of 99 paper. It cannot be done thoroughly in less than four hours. It is usually served up with red currant-jelly made hot with a little port wine. N. 30.—Le Carré of Venison. (The best Part of the Neck.) Is also to be roasted, but as it is not by far so thick as the haunch, the paste may be dispensed with. NO 31.-L'Oeille. Take a fat goose, empty it and truss it with the legs inwards: then mark it in a brazière and moisten it a little; cover it well with layers of bacon that it may retain its white colour. Then take some pheasants, grey and red partridges, which braize in a scparate stew-pan, and when the whole is done, drain and serve up with an Espagnole for sauce. N? 32.-Leg of Pork. Take the leg of a porket, which rub over with salt, and put it well covered with salt also in a vessel, where it is to be left ten days. Then boil it in water and send it up with green cab- bage all round, and a pease-pudding, which is made as follows. Take a quart of dry peas, wash them clean, A 2 100 wrap them up in a clean towel and throw them in the same vessel as the leg. When the peas are done, strain them through a sieve, put in a good lump of butter, two eggs, and poach them, wrapped up in a clean towel, to make the pudding N. 33.- Fowls à la Mirepoix. Take a couple of white fowls, which empty and truss with the legs bent down as a campine. (See campine.) Then mark a mirepoix in the following manner. Take a few slices of ham, some rasped bacon, butter, salt, bay-leaves, parsley, and lemon-juice: let the whole fry white on a very slow fire. When the rasped bacon and butter are well mixed together, mark the fowls in an oval stew-pan trimmed with Jayers of bacon which moisten with the mire- poir and a spoonful of broth, to prevent their. frying. They must stew for three-quarters of an hour on a very slow fire; then drain them well, and serve up an Espagnole, or a ravigotte. N.B.-All voluminous entrées may be served. as a relevé (remove), as for instance a large noir of veal à la bourgeoise, a large carée of veal garnished with vegetables, and in short what- ever is of too great a magnitude for an entrée. . 101 NO 34.-Boiled Turkey with Oyster Sauce. · This is to be boiled in the same manner as in N. 18. (See Sauces aux huitres.) FISH SENT UP WITH THE SOUPS ; BUT WHICH IN FRANCE ARE SERVED AS - REMOVE OF THE SOUP. NO 1.- Turbot à l' Eau Sel. Take a turbot that has disgorged, put it into boiling water with a little salt, vinegar, or lemon-juice. It must not be left in the water above three-quarters of an hour. Then drain it, and send it np with the sauce separately. Lob- ster sauce is to be made as follows. Take a hen lobster, cut the Aesh into small dice, keep the eggs, which pound and strain through a hair sieve, after having mixed a little butter. You then make a sauce blanche, (see Sauces) let it be rather thick: then mix the eggs of the lobster with that sauce, and throw into it a little beurre d'anchois (see Sauces), a small quantity of cavice, * a little cream. Now take care the sauce does not boil, for it would curdle, and lose its colour. * Mackay, in Piccadilly sells the best, that is to say, the gnly genuine cavice. # 3 102 N? 2.-Broiled Turbot. ... MARINEZ the turbot in olive oil, salt, pepper, &c. next broil it on a slow fire: but it cannot be sufficiently done in this way in less than an hour, You must accordingly put it on a slow fire in due time. Then mask it with caper sauce which is to be made as follows. Mark a sauce au beurre (sce Sauces) with a little glace in it, when melted you throw in a beurre d'anchois, and some capers, and vinegar. Then give a good seasoning, and mask, that is pour the sauce over the fish. same NO 3.-Boiled Salmon with Lobster Sauce. Put the salmon into boiling water, the same as the turbot, with salt only. Serve up with lobster sauce.' NO 4.- Tranches de Saumon grillées, Sauce aux Capres. MARINATE your slices of salmon in oil and salt, broil them on a slow fire, and mask tliem with caper sauce. NO 5.-Salmon, Sauce Matelotte. Boil it in plain water; then mask it with Sauce Matelotte. (See Sauces.) · 103 N° 6.-Salmon à la Genevoise. Take a few shalots, some roots of parsley, a bunch ditto seasoned with spices, thyme, bay- leaves, and a few carrots. Let the whole be lightly fried in a little butter. Then moisten with white wine (Madeira in preference). Let it boil for three-quarters of an hour. When the marinade is done, drain it through a tammy, over the fish, which stew in that seasoning. As soon as the fish is sufficiently stewed, drain it, pick it well of all the scales, and return it into the vessel wherein it has boiled, with some of the liquor to keep it hot. Now reduce some of the marinade with a good Espagnole, skim all the fat or grease off, into which throw a good piece of butter. To be well kneaded with flour, a little beurre d'anchois, all which will serve over the salmon after having drained it. Some will have lemon-juice to it, which is a matter of taste. N.B.-Salmon is also served au court bouillon. (See N: 25.) NO 7.-Cavilleau, or Cod, Sauce aux Huitres. Boil the fish as you do turbot: drain it and make the oyster sauce in the following manner. Boil the oysters in their own liquor, drain them, take off the beard, and wash them in fresh water to carry off the sand which is occasionally left, H4 104 Then take a small lump of butter powdered over with flour, dilute the sauce with the liquor of the oysters, with a little cavice,* and cream. Mind it is not to boil for a long time; put the oysters in the sauce and send them up in a sauceboat. Add a little cream to it. NO 8.--Tranches de Cabilleau, or Slices of Crimp Cod. Boil these slices in the same manner as the fish when entire, and send them up with the same sauce. NO 9.- Cabilleau à la Créme. The same as above. The sauce à la créme is made in the following manner. Take a small lump of butter, a little flour, some cream and a little salt, mix them together, and turn them on the fire, but do not let the sauce boil. Then mask the fish, N.B.-It is not served up so in England. NO 10.—Le John Dorey. Sauce au Homard. Boil it in the same manner as you do turbot. (See NO 1.) Send it up with lobster sauce. N: 11.-Ditto broiled with. Anchovy Sauce. MARINADE and broil it in the same manner as * The best is sold at Mackay's, Piccadilly. 105 you do turbot. The same sauce also, but with, out capers. NO 12.-Les Solles frites et bouillies. . Boil the soles in boiling water with a little salt and vinegar. Fried soles are to be covered with crumbs of bread, which is to be done in the following manner. Break four eggs, which beat with a little salt: dip the solęs into this omelette first, then into crumbs of bread. Fry the fish till it be of a fine colour. Shrimp sauce is made as follows. Make a sauce blanche, with which mix a little beurre d'anchois; throw in the shrimps, and send up in a sauceboat. NO 13.-Broiled Soles. Dip them into beaten eggs and crumbs of bread as above, but twice, using melted butter the second time. Broil them till they be of a light brown, and send up with shrimp sauce. NO 14.-Fried Whitings à l'Angloise. TAKE very fresh whitings, empty them well, and flay them. Then fasten the tail in the mouth with a small skewer, and dip the fish into an omelette, the same as the soles, then into crumbs of bread, and fry them till they be of a light brown. (See Shrinip sauce.) 106 NO 15.-Fried Whitings à la Francoise. Let the whitings be very fresh, and of an equal size: empty and scrape them well all over; then wash them in different waters. When quite clean slit them equally on the back, and dip them into four only. Next fry them in very hot oil, and over a large fire, for otherwise when you put them in they might cool the drip- ping. When of a light brown send them up with shrimp sauce in a sauceboat. N! 16.-- Boiled Whitings. I SHOULD think it useless to explain what is generally known, about boiling whitings, or fish of any other sort. Therefore I shall only men- tion a few articles, which miglit have escaped the memory of some of my brethren, who are desirous of displaying variety. NO 17.-Mackarel à l'Angloise. Boil the mackarel as you would any other fish, and make a fennel sauce, which in France is called fenouille. The fennel is to be boiled in water with a little salt; then it is to be chopped very fine, and thrown into melted butter and serve up. N.B.- It is to be observed, that it is eusto- mary in England to send up the fish with the aboye melted buiter. 107 NO 18.-Broiled Mackarel. Pick out in preference mackarels with soft rows, which are the most delicate. Empty them, open them at the back, and marinate them in oil, salt, and pepper. Next broil them, but unless they be done enough they are never good. A maître d'hôtel maigre (see Sauces) is to be put over the fish, N.B.-All other methods of dressing fish, will be found in the chapter of entrées. NO 19.-Boiled Haddocks ARE boiled in the same manner as the soles, and served up with shrimp sauce. N? 20.–Skate with Shrimp Sauce. ACCORDING to French fashion it is boiled in a marinade : but in England it is boiled generally in water with a little salt and vinegar. The sauce is also sent up separately in a boat. . N? 21.- Boiled Pike, Sauce Hollandoise. EMPTY and scale the pike, wash it well after it has stood for an hour in cold water. Then boil it like any other fish, and serve up with a Hollandoise maigre, or Dutch sauces. (See Sauces.). 108 NO 23.-Baked Pike à l'Angloise. SCALE and empty your pike, without injuring the skin of the belly, into which you introduce a farce which would drop out if not well secured. This farce is made of two handfuls of crumbs of bread, one handful of chopt beef-suet, a little lemon peel chopt likewise, parsley ditto, salt, pepper, and spices, two whole eggs, and a little fresh butter. Mix the whole together, and pound it in a mortar: then stuff your pike with that farce, and turn the pike with its tail fast- ened in its mouth, by means of a skewer ; then dip it, first into an omelette, and then into crumbs of bread, next into crumbs of bread again, then baste it over with butter, before you put it into the oven. If you are to send up two, one of them is to be made of a green colour, by means of mixing a quantity of chopped parsley with the crumbs of bread. Mind the oven must be well heated. When the pikes are of a fine brown, cover them with paper, and let them bę well done through. Serve up with a Hollandoise maigre, or Dutch sauces. NO 23.- Pike à la Genevoise. Scale and wash your pike, and stew it in the - same manner as the salmon, N: 6. 109 NO 24.--Pike à la Polonoise. Wash your pike clean as above, then cut it into slices as if you wanted to make a matelotte; then fry a few carrots cut into dice, a few roots of parsley, a little ham, a bunch of parsley and green onions, seasoned with mace, cloves, thyme, and bay-leaves, and a little butter. Moisten the whole with a sufficient quantity of boiling water. When the marinade is well stewed, drain it through a silk sieve over the slices of your pike, and let them stew, but not too long, for they would break. When the fish is done enough, take the liquor in which it has boiled, to moisten a béchamelle maigre, which you mark in the following manner. Take a few bits of ham, mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, and green onions, a small white onion, which fry white in butter, then fry the whole white with a large handful of flour, and moisten with the liquor wherein the pike has been boiling. Stir this with a wooden spoon ; when the four is well done, throw in a pint of thick cream, that has already been boiling, and reduce the whole, till the sauce be thick enough to mask the fish. Now take some turnips, cut into dice, that have been stewed in broth and sugar; drain them and throw them into the sauce, after the latter have 110 been drained through a tammy. Drain the pike also, and mask it with the sauce, and the turnips. N.B.-This sauce requires a little sugar on account of the turnips. N? 25.—Pike à la Chambord. Scale your pike and let it disgorge in water for an hour or two. Then lard it in different places on one side of the back, and bake it in a mari- nade au vin, as you would do in the marinade à la Genevoise. That part which has been larded must stand uppermost, to prevent the other getting dry. Cover this with layers of bacon, and be particular in basting frequently with the seasoning. When your fish is done, glaze the parts that have been larded, and mask the others with a razoút à la Chambord. Observe that the quenelles must be made of fish. The garn- ish is generally composed of large quenelles, small pigeons innocents, (squab pigeons) larded sweetbread of lamb, &c. Take a little of the marinade, skim off the grease, reduce it nearly to glace, and mix it with the Chambord, which is no other thing than a financière with the addition of a little beurre d'anchois. NO 26.—Pike au court Bouillon. Take a large pike, which empty, without KE 111 scaling it. Then wash it clean, and drain it. Next boil some vinegar, and when boiling, pour it over the scales of the pike which will turn blue, and the scales will curl up if the vinegar be hot enough. Wrap the pike up in a towel, and let it boil in the court bouillon, which is prepared as follows. NO 27.- Court Bouillon for Fish au bleu. Take a certain quantity of carrots, onions, roots of parsley, leaves of ditto, thyme, bay- leaves, mace, cloves, spices, which fry in butter without their getting too much colour. Then pour in two bottles of white and a bottle of red winc with salt, &c. This marinade being stewed properly will serve several times for stewing the fishi, but remember each time you will use it, it requires a little water, besides it would be- conie too strong in the course of time. NO 23.--Trout à la Genévoise. This fish is the most delicate that can be pre. pared à la Genevoise. The marinade to be made the same as in N: 6, for salmon. No 29.- Roasted Sturgeon. Spit the sturgeon : make a marinade au vin Ilanc, with which baste your sturgeon. Next 112 use an Espagnole mixed with a beurre d'anchois, and a lump of butter, well blended together in your hand, after having mixed a small quantity of the marinade to be reduced with the Espa. gnole. N° 30.-Baked Sturgeon. Make a marinade cuitte, and bake the fish with that marinade. The sauce as above. NO 31.–Sturgeon à l'Eau. Boil your sturgeon as you would any other fish. Send up with sauce Hollandoise, or Dutch sauces. NO 32.-Carp, au bleu, without Sauce. Take a fine carp, which empty without in. juring the belly. Take off the gills, and after your have washed it clean, pour over it some boiling vinegar by which means the scales will curl up, and the fish get a blue colour. Then wrap the carp up in a towel, and stew it in the court bouillon. (See N. 25.) NO 33.Carp farci au Four. Take a fine carp, scale and empty it. Then detach one side of the fillets, without injuring the head. Now take this flesh, and that of another 113 carp of a smaller size, and make a farce in the following manner. Take the crumb of two penny loaves, soak it into cream or milk, then squeeze it, and put it into a mortar, with an equal quantity of the flesh of the carp, nearly as much fresh butter, with a little chopt parsley, a few mushrooms fried in a little butter, salt, pepper, and spice. When all these ingredients have been pounded in a mortar, add a couple of eggs entire, and continue pounding for a long time, then take alittle, which throw into boiling water, and taste. If it be too delicate, which means too thin, add one egg more, pound it again, and then rub it through the sieve à que- nelles; and fill the carp up in the place of the fillet. Take care however to give it a good shape. Next let it be done thoroughly in the oven, and serve under it sauce au beurre, mixed with a little glace, a beurre d'anchois, some few fine capers, &c. NO 34.-Carp, Sauce à Matelotte. · Take a fine carp, scale and empty it. Then let it stew in wine enough to cover it. After having drained it well, take that wine to make the sauces and send it up masked with sauce à matelotte. (See Sauces ) 114 · N: 35.--Broiled Carp, with Caper Sauce. SCALE and empty your carp. Wash it, then wipe it quite dry. Then marinate it in oil, salt, and pepper ; broil it and send it up with caper sauce. N? 36.-Caper Sauce før Fish. MARK a sauce au beurre iuto which throw a small portion of glace, and when the sauce is in a state of readiness, throw into it a beurre d'anchois, and choice capers. N. 37.— Tench. - TENCH, in England, are eat boiled, with a sauce Hollandoise ; yet they are far better' en matelotte. NO 38.-Perch. THESE likewise are sent up boiled, with Dutch sauce; but you will find a different way to dress them in the Entrées, 115 · CHAP. IV. FARCES, OR FORCED MEAT. N: 1.- Quenelles de Veau. TAKE a sous noix or a contre noix of veal. Cut it into slices, which serape with your knife till you have got off all the meat without the nerves. About half a pound of this raspt meat is suf- ficient for an entrée. You have boiled either in your marmite, or in plain water, a calf's udder. When it is cold you trim all the upper part, cut it into small pieces and pound it in a mortar till it can be rubbed through a sieve. All that part that has been thus strained through the sieve, you make a ball of, and of the same size as your meat, which you have also rolled in a ball; you then make a panade in the following manner. Panades for Farces in general. Soak in milk the crumb of two penny rolls for about half an hour; then take it out, and squeeze it to draw out all the milk. Put that erumb in a stew-pan with a little sauce tournée ; I 2 116 a little consommé, and some fine herbs, that is to say a little parsley, and a few mushrooms, and if approved of, a few shalots or very small green onions. Stew those herbs in a little but- ter for a moment, to do away their crudity. Then set them to reduce with your panade, which you must keep stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. When your panade begins to get dry in the stew-pan, introduce a small lump of butter, which assists in drying your panade without its sticking to the pan. When it is quite firm, take it off from the fire, and mix with it the yolks of two eggs. Then let it cool to use it when wanted. Your panade must always be prepared before hand, in order to have it cold, for it cannot be used when hot or even warm. When your panade is cold, you roll it into balls, the same as the two other articles, but let the balls be all of a size, Pound the whole in a mortar as long as possible, for the more quenelles are pounded, the more they are delicate. Then break two eggs, whites and yolks together, which you pound likewise ; now season with pepper, salt, and spices in powder ; when the whole is well mixed together, try a small quenelle, which you roll with a little flour; then poach it in boiling water with a little salt. If it be not firm enough, put another egg with. 117 out beating the white, which only makes the quenelles flat, and hollow inside. When you have made your farce rub it through a sieve. Several people who use the same ingredients as I do, but not in the same way, will perhaps feel inclined to censure my method ; yet such as will adhere to it will derive great benefit. NO 2.-Quenelles de Volailles. The quenelles de volailles are made with the fillets only, all other parts being too full of nerves. Take the fillets of young ordinary chickens, for you must never use those of an old fowl. Veal when very white, is even better than fowls if they be tough. Cut your meat into dice and pound it in a mortar, till it can be rubbed through a sieve. Next make three balls, as you have done for the quenelles of veal. Then pound, season, and try them in the same man- ner as indicated above, as they must be made firm, or soft, according to the use they are in- tended for. Quenelles au consommé clarifié, for instance, must be very delicate and soft. If they are to be served in a ragoût, be it either white or brown, they must be made more firm, and so on. The farce à quenelles is made great use of in cookery. They alone make various good entrées, and serve besides to garnish the 00 ļ 3 118 ragoûts, matelottes, godards, chambords, påtés chauds, &c. &c. N. 3.—Quenelles de Lapreaur. If you are enabled to use fillets only, they make the best quenelles. If you are engaged with a nobleman who has game in abundance, take the fillets for your quenelles ; with the legs and shoulders make a giblotte, or a pye English fashion for the servants, and with the remaining parts you make your consommé. When you lift up the fillets you must leave the nerves about the carcase. Pound your meat and make a panade as for other quenelles. Take a calf's udder likewise, which prepare as above indicated. Quenelles are different in taste and appellation ; only in consequence of the meat they are made of. Remember that the panade and calf's udder are indispensable articles. So follow what I have prescribed in N. 1, for the quenelles of veal which I have mentioned the first, as being more frequently used than all others. They are very good and likewise very cheap, as veal is always requisite for sauces and marmites. Half a pound or three-quarters of a pound of veal is no severe drawback, and can weaken neither, although of service to make several good entrées, as will be illustrated hereafter, 119 - NO 4.-Quenelles de Perdreaux. Take the fillets of three young partridges. Take off the skin and the nerves ; cut your meat into dice, and pound it as indicated above. Scrape the bottom of the sieve, and make a ball of the same size as those of the panade and udder. When you have mixed the three ingredients together, add two whole eggs, and the yolk of a third. Then season with pepper, salt, and all-spice. Next try your quenelle as indicated above. This farce will serve for different en- trées, which are all to be found under their respective names in the article perdreaux. nas N: 5.-Farce de Poularde à la Crème. Make use of the panade and udder as men. tioned above, but no herbs in the panade are required, instead of which put a little cream.. Take the white flesh of a fowl that has been roasted; take off the skin and nerves, chop your meat very fine, then pound it, as you do for other farces. Put in the yolks of your eggs only, after having pounded your farce, and that it is well seasoned. Beat the whites of your eggs, and mix them gently with the rest, stirring the whole with a wooden spoon. Use this farce when requisite. 120 NO 6.-Farce à Gratin de Lapreaux, Perdreaux, Poulets, &c. . The farce à gratin is made in the same man- ner as the farce à la Créme, with the only dif- ference that you must not beat the whites of your eggs, and that this farce is to be kept delicate and soft. Take the flesh of roasted chickens, or young rabbits, or young partridges, &c. The manner of using it is explained in its proper place. The farce is intended for the stuf- fing of such articles as are not to be put on the fire again, such as calf's ears, calf's feet, sheep's trotters en canelon, and rissolles, as also quails, tongues, and larks au gratin. There are some gratins that are also émincés, and are treated of in their proper places, NO 7.-Boudins à la Richelieu. . As soon as you have rubbed your farce à quenelles through a sieve, you have some onions cut sideways into dices, and that have been sweated white, which you mix with your farce before it is got firm, because the onion then does not break. But if you should wait till the farce is firm, the onions will break. The boudins à la Richelieu are a farce à quenelles either of fowl or of veal, as they are never made of game. 121 N8.- Boudins à la Sefton. THESE are made with quenelles as those above, only instead of onions sliced sideways, you put mushrooms, sliced in the same manner, and sweated white in butter. When you drain your mushrooms preserve the liquor, which pour into the sauce that serves for the boudins. The flavour of mushrooms must prevail in these boudins, the same as that of onions prevails in the boudins à la Richelieu. N: 9.-Quenelles de Merlans. Take the fillets of four whitings. If in a Romau Catholic family on a fast day, instead of an udder use butter. The panade however is far superior when au gras. In the former case you soak your crumb of bread in some good milk, and squeeze it well in a towel. Do not put the same quantity of butter, as you would of udder, as the butter would not keep in. In every other respect these are made like other quenelles. NO 10.-- Farce de Carpes, pour les Diners en Maigre. Take the flesh of two carps, which chop, pound, and rub through a sieve. Soak some crumb of bread in some good milk; have a few mushrooms and a little parsley chopt very fine. me 122 Set your herbs sweating in a little butter, over a very slow fire. Then let your herbs cool in a hair sieve. Next put the bread, that has been soaked and squeezed properly, with the flesh of the carp that has been rubbed through a tammy into a mortar, with a lump of butter of about the same bulk as the flesh of the carp, and season with pepper, salt, all-spice, three or four eggs, whites and yolks together, for farces with butter require more eggs than those with udder. Yet before you put more than three, you must try to roll some of the farce in a little flour, and to poach it in boiling water. You then taste and add to the seasoning if required. When com- pletely done, you rub it through a sieve, and let it cool in the larder, and use it when you have occasion. This farce is used for petty patties of carp. We also make quenelles for matelottes en maigré, &c. N° 11.-Farce de Godiveau, pour les Patés à la Mazarine, &c. Take three-quarters of a pound of very white veal, a pound and a half of beef suet, which you strip of all the sinewy skins, chop your suet separately, and your veal the same. When you have chopt them both, take some herbs such as parsley, shalots and mushrooms, which you chop 123 also very fine, and sweating in a little butter, mix the whole together, veal, suet, and herbs, which season with pepper and salt. Then chop them again. Break two eggs, yolks and whites, and if your godiveau appears to be well mixed, put a little piece to the oven in a small tart mould. If it rises well, and is properly seasoned, that is a sign of its being done : if not put it into the mortar again with a little milk.' By dint of practising a great deal, you are liable to observe accidents which cannot be duly explained. In the summer season for instance, the suet being very soft, you find more difficulty in using it. If you have any good ice, put some small pieces into the godiveau, to make the meat and suet combine better. NO 12.- Farce Marbrée Verte. · Make a farce à quenelles as indicated above. Take part of it, and mix it with a verd de persil (see Sauces) which you have drained, in order the water may not make your farce thinner. If you wish to use it quite of a green colour, you do not mix it; but if you intend to marble either galantines, or fillets of soles, you put on slightly a part white, and another green. You then roll and poach them, and when they are cut they look like marble. . 124 NO 13.-Farce Marbrée Rouge. · This is much the same as the former. In France we made use of a beurre d'écrevisses, for poulets à la Cardinal, or red and marbled farces. In England the eggs of lobsters are more frequently used, which are not amiss for farces of fish. But for farces of volaille, or of veal, craw-fish, is far preferable, nay requi. site. (See Sauces, beurre d'écrevisses.) NO 14.-Farce à Liévre et à Dindon. Take half a pound of beef suet, chop it very fine, some parsley likewise, a little thyme, pep- per, salt, crumbs of bread, lemon peel also chopped very fine, an egg or two, and mix the whole with a little milk. It would not be amiss to pound the whole in a mortar for a moment. This farce may be used with baked pike, boiled turkey with celery or oysters ; in short with all such articles as will be indicated in this work. NO 15.-Farce à Pátés. Take an equal quantity of veal and of fat bacon; chop them together, season them with pepper, salt and all-spice, but no herbs which only damage the pye. If it is to be eat imme- diately, you may however introduce a little chopt parsley, and shalots, and make a páte 125 aux truffles, or chop some truffles which you , mix with the farce. In pies made of game you may chop some ham, but in those made of fowl, the saltpetre gives a red colour to the meat, which can never look too white. N. 16.— Farce à Saucisses. SAUSAGES are only composed of hog's flesh; but as it is customary to stuff turkeys with this farce, I have thought proper to mention it here. Take all the tender parts of the meat, the nerves · being left aside when the hams and breasts are cured, which will be found treated of in a sepa- rate article. Cut the whole of the meat into small dice; then cut nearly about the same quantity of fat into small dice also. Chop and mix them well together; fat and lean, season with pepper and salt, all-spice, and a little mint chopt very fine. All these ingredients give the sausages a very pleasing taste. 126 CHAP, V. ENTRÉES DE VIANDE DE BOUCHERIE. OF BUTCHER'S MEAT. BEEF. N. 1.–Blanquette de Palais de Bouf. TAKE six or eight palates of beef, rub them over with salt, and stew them in a blanc, till you can take off the upper skin. When the palates are thus skinned and done, cut them into the size of a shilling pieces, and throw them into the sauce à blanquette, which is a sauce tournée reduced, that you thicken. The palates of beef en blanquette are sent up to table either in a casserole au ris, or a vol au vent, or a timbal. ULA N? 2.-La Blanquette de Palais de Bwuf aux Pois. This is made nearly in the same manner as that above; but previously to putting in the 127 thickening, you take a few spoonfuls of sweated peas intended for entremets, and you reduce them with the sauce, that it may savour of the peas. Add a little salt and sugar. Entrées of this sort should be sweet and not briny. 17 NO 3.- The same aux Concombres. PREPARE the palates of beef, as for other blanquettes. Parex some cucumbers cut into the size of shilling pieces. Keep the parure to make a purée, which you throw into the sauce, to give it a taste of the cucumbers. Put your cucumbers in a good sauce tournée, a little sugar, let them be done; then drain them, and reduce the sauce separately. When done, and that your sauce is thickened, put the liaison to it; (as the cucumbers will always make it thin) throw into the sauce those cucumbers that are entire, and the palates of beef, and serve up with a bord de plat, or in a vol au vent. (See article pour les accessoires de cuisine.) NO 4.--Blanquette de Palais de Bæuf, aut Truffes. The palates to be prepared as above. Only in this case cut the truffles into the size of shil- ling pieces, and mark in butter and salt. Sautez them on a brisk fire, till done. Let them have 128 one single boil in the sauce, before you throw in the thickening NO 5.- Attelets of Palates of Beef à l' Ita- lienne. · PALATES of beef are always prepared in the same manner as indicated in N. 1. The only difference consists in the cutting of them, and in the sauce with which they are sent up to table. Take some sauce d'attelets, (see Sauces) and after having cut your patates into square pieces of whatever dimension you may think proper, let them cool in the sauce. When quite cold run a silver skewer through them in a row, and cover all the meat with some of the sauce. Make your pieces as smooth as possible with your knife. Next dip them into crumbs of bread, and make them quite square. Mind that both extremities be well covered with the crumbs into which you dip them a second time, after having previously used an omelette ; likewise that both ends of the skewers be remarkably clean. Then fry your palates to a fine brown, and serve them up with an Italienne rousse. (See Sauces.) 129 NO 6.–Palates of Beef au gratin, otherwise en Paupiette. Have a good farce à quenelles ready; cut your palates in slices of about an inch broad; spread some of the farce over the rough side of the palates, then put part of your farce into the middle of your dish, and erect all the slices of your palates in the shape of a turban, after having stuffed and rolled them. Cover the whole with layers of bacon, and put your dish into the oven, without allowing the contents to get brown. When your furce is done thoroughly, drain all the grease, take off the layers of bacon, clean your dish well, and mask your meat with a thick Espagnole. NO 7.-Le Miroton de Palais de Bæuf à la Dreuille. Use a cutter both for the palates of beef and truffles, which are thus made into pieces of an equal size. Dress them en miroton. Then take a sufficient quantity of mushrooms, also of 'the same size, to make a border round the dish : put in the middle a salpicon of truffles, mushrooms, and palates of beef, and sauce your miroton with a pretty thick Espagnole. 130 NO 8.-Croquettes of Palates of Beef au velouté. Take all the parures of blanquettes, mirotons, &c. and chop them very fine. You have some mushrooms cut into small dice, which fry white in a little butter. Then mouillez withi a little thin sauce tournée, and let them boil gently on the corner of the stove, that you may skim off the grease. You next reduce this sauce with a pint of cream: when it is got thick enough, throw the palates into the sauce, and let them boil for a moment, that they may taste of the sauce. Let this preparation cool in a plate. When quite cold roll the whole into croquettes, either round or oval; dip them once into crumbs of bread, then into an omelette, and into crumbs of bread again: then fry them till they be of a fine brown, and serve up with fried parsley. NO 9.-— Beef's Tongue, Sauce hachée. Take a tongue that is quite fresh ; let it dis- gorge, blanch it to take away the taste of tripe it might have retained. Then stew it in a good braize. When done, flay it, cut it in two, spread it open, and mask with sauce hachée. (See Sauces.) This is but a very common entrée. . NO 10.- Le Miroton of Tongue aux Navets. LET your tongue be stewed as above, and then 131 get cold. Now cut it into scollops, dish it en miroton, and place the dish at the mouth of your hot oven. A short time before you send it up to table, glaze it with a glace légère, and pour into the middle l'haricot brun. (See Sauces.) N? 11.--Le Miroton de Langue à l'Oseille. Prepare your tongue as above N. 10, only glaze it a little more, and lay thicker. Pour into the middle l'oseille en purée, or puré of sorrel. NO 12.-Le Miroton de Langue aux Epinards. The same preparation as above, only use spinach, and let them be richer and yet more liquid than for an entremets. N? 13.—Le Miroton de Langues à l'Ecarlate i aux Navets. This is not a French entrée, and I only men- tion it here because I have seen it sent up to well known epicures. Take a tongue à l'écarlate that is quite cold; cut it into round slices, dress it in a plafond, and put it into the oven for a moment. Then glaze it and serve it up with a white purée of turnips, (see Sauces), or if you like, merely with turnips strained through a K : 2 132 sieve and moistened with a little cream and salt, &c. which is called mashed. a rem NO 14.-La Langue à l'Ecarlate bigarée. This is a remove which is frequently used for family dinners. Take a large tongue à l'écarlater boil it well, then flay it, glaze it, and after having made it look quite neat, send it up with mashed turnips on one side, and mashed carrots, or carrots and spinach on the other, &c. NO 15.- Les Filets Mignons de Bæuf sautés à la Lyonaise. Take the inside fillet of a surloin of beef, and scollop it of about the size of the palm of your hand. Mark them in clarified butter, with a little salt and pepper, in a sautez pan, when dinner time is come sautez them and turn them round; when done on both sides, drain the butter and put a little glaze in its stead. Now keep stirring your meat in the glaze with a little lemon-juice. You dish it en miroton, and pour your Lyonaise in the sautez pan with the glaze. When you have mixed that well, you mask your filets mignons and serve up quite hot. NO 16.-Le Filet de Boeuf Mariné, à la broche. Take the same part as above, and tare off 133 the nerves. Then lard it, and pickle it raw with an onion and a shalot cut into slices, a little parsley, salt, pepper, vinegar, &c. let that mari- nate one day. Then roast and glaze it. Serve up with a poivrade. (See Sauces.) NO 17.-La Queue de Bouf en Hochepot. The beef tail being a very plain and common dish, is seldom sent up but as a tureen. (See N. 25 des Terrines.) N? 18.—Le Miroton de Bäuf. ALTHOUGH I intend publishing a work on the entrées de desserte alone, I have condescended to introduce here the miroton at a friend's re- quest. When you have some cold rump of beef left, cut it neat into slices, put these into a suuté. pan with a little Espagnole, or Italienne rousse, salt and pepper, and a little broth. Give them a few boils, and serve up quite hot. NO 19.--Le Rognon de Bäuf au Vin de Cham- . pagne.. Take a kidney that is of a nice light: colour; take off a little of the fat, mince it, and- fry it-white in a pan with a little chopt parsley, shalots, salt, pepper, &c. When it is done enough, powder a little flour over it, and moisten: K 3 134 with a glass of Champaign, and two or three spoonfuls of Espagnole. It must not boil any more, for it would get hard. But you must keep it hot, and serve it up the same. We never send this entrée up to table but for breakfast. N: 20.-Beef Steaks aux Pommes de Terre. Take some thin slices of rump of beef, flatten them, and season them with a little salt, pepper, &c. Dip those slices into a little butter, that the gravy may not drop out whilst broiling. You must have some parsley chopt very fine with butter, salt, pepper, lemon, &c. When your beef steaks are done, put the above ingredients under the steaks, and all round fried potatoes of a fine brown colour. Beef steaks are also served with oysters. (See Sauces.) NO 21.-L'Alloyau à la Godard. Take that part of the beef that is between the rump and the first ribs. Turn it over on the filet mignon, and dress it in a good shape. Mark it in a large braizing-pan with plenty of parures of veal, a large piece of bacon, the breast part, a small bit of ham, a few carrots, onions, some parsley roots, a bunch of parsley and • green onions, seasoned with thyme, bay-leaves, spices of all sorts, and a spoonful of good broth. 135 Cover your alloyau with bacon first, and then with two sheets of white paper, to prevent the fire you are to lay over it making your meat look brown. When you have closed your braizing- pan, you stick some slips of paper all round, and stew your alloyau, for four hours on a very slow fire. A moderately heated oven would be still preferable. The braizing-pan inust have boiled before you put it into the oven. (See Sauces for the godard.) You are to garnish with pigeons à la gautier, large quenelles, larded sweetbreads, and especially large cock's-combs, which slit into the fillet, when you are going to send up to table. N. 22.--L' Alloyau roti, ; ; The loin is preferable to any other part. There is very little to be said about the manner of roasting it. The size of the joint and the state of your fire must determine the time you have it down. Serve up with jus only. (See Sauces.) NO 23.- Rump of Beef au naturel. (See Removes, N. 1.) (See N? 24.-La Culotte à la Flamande. Removes, N. 2.) K 4 136 N° 25.-La Poitrine aú naturel, et à la Fla- mande. (See Removes, N. 3.) NO 26.-La Côte de Bæuf braizée en Hochepot. TAKE about four ribs of beef: parez the thick part, lard them with thick bacon, and braize them in the same manner as you would do the rump. Send up with glazed onions, or cabbages, or hochepot, or a sauce hachée, round it. Observe that you are not to detach the ribs, which are to be served flat as if they were mut- ton chops. NO 27.-L'Entre-Côte de Bouf grillée, Sauce hachée. You take the middle part between two ribs, flatten it well in a good shape, and broil it. If it be thick you must have a gentle fire to heat it through; if it be thin, your fire must be brisk, for if not your meat would not get a colour, (See Sauce hachée.) 337 CHAP. VI, ENTRÉES OF MUTTON. N: 1.-Côtelette de Mouton à la Soubise. You take a carré de mouton, and cut the chops one by one without flattening them ; cut off the flat bone at the extremity of the chops. Then mark them in a stew-pan with all your parures, likewise with the parures of your onions for la soubise. Season the whole well with carrots; and bunch of parsley and green onions, salt, and a very small quantity of spice, &c. throw in four or five spoonfuls of good broth, to braize them. When done drain them, and let them cool. · Strain the liquor through a silk sieve. Then reduce it to glaze. Next pares your chops nicely and put them with the glaze. This being completed, dish them en miroton, and pour the soubise in the middle. Some people will take two carrées de mouton, and cut two bones to each chop, lard them with bacon, and braize them as above. But mutton 138 being in general fat, it is better not to lard them. With regard to the two bones, you must make them as fat as above, for if too thick you cannot dish them well. Another Method of preparing les Côtelettes à .. . la Soubise. You cut your mutton chops a little thicker than when you wish to broil them. Parez them nicely, and put them into a stew-pan, where they may all lay flat. Put an onion or two, a few carrots tournées, a little salt, four or five spoonfuls of good consommé, and sweat the whole till it be entirely done. Then take out the roots, put in a little glaze, and reduce over a large fire. When entirely sur glace, lay them on a cover to drain the grease, and serve up before they can get dry. This method is prefer- able to the other. In neither case must you lard your chops with bacon. NO 2.-Les Côtelettes en Haricot Vierge. Prepare your chops as above. Braize them in the like manner. As several people do not like onions, serve them with a haricot vierge instead of a soubise. (See Sauces.) 01. 139 Da NO 3.-Côtelettes à la Minute. 'Take the best part of a neck of mutton that has been kept for a while. Cut the chops one by one, and parez them as nicely as you can. Season them with pepper and salt, dip them into some melted butter, and broil them over a brisk fire. Serve up with a very strong blond de veau. (See Sauces.) NO 4.-Côtelettes à l'Italienne ARE prepared as above, but are to be dipt into crumbs of bread and seasoned. After having dipt them once into the crumbs, you repeat the same operation in melted butter and crumbs à second time, and broil them.' Then wipe them over with a clean cloth, and serve up with an Italienne rousse. (See Sauces.) NO 5.-Côtelettes en Epigramme. These are nearly the same as in NO 3. Only you serve in the middle a breast of mutton en hochepot. (See Sauces.) NO 6.-Côtelettes en Haricot brun. SEVERAL people braize and glaze them, and put the haricot brun in the middle, but I will explain the manner in which they are to be prepared, in order that they may taste of the 140 : turpips. Cut your chops as in N. 1, parez the bones nicely, then fry them in a little butter, of a nice brown colour, drain this butter, and make a rour very blond, Moisten with some blond de veau of a fine colour, and well seasoned. When your sauce boils, throw in your chops, and let them stew gently on the corner of the stove. Skim the sauce frequently : when the chops are done, drain them in a clean stew-pan. Have ready some turnips turned in whatever shape you think proper, but not too small for this entrée, drain your sauce through a tammy over the turnips, which stew in this sauce with a little sugar. Continue skimming frequently. When your turnips are done mix the whole together, chops and all, and warm them au bain marie; or give them one boil or two that they may taste of the turnips. N.B.-Some people will fry the turnips in batter to make them brown, which is useless, as they will look very well, provided the blond de veau be of a fine colour. N: 7.-Les Cotelettes sautées à l' Essence. Parez these as in No 3, mark them in a sauté pan with clarified butter. Sautez them over a brisk equal fire. Drain part of the but- ter; put one or two spoonfuls of Espagnole and 141 a little glaze into your sauté pan with the juice of a lemon. Keep stirring the whole over the fire, but do not let it boil. Dish and send up instantly. N.B.--If these are kept waiting they are spoilt. They are fine eating however for such people as like their meat verd cuite : but if they be over- done they have no more savour than cork or leather. N8.Cótelettes à la Maintenon. Parez your chops as in N. 3. Chop fine some sweet herbs such as parsley, shalots, and mushrooms, which fry in a little butter. When your sweet herbs are done, pass your chops a little in that seasoning, let them cool, then wrap them up in paper, and broil them over a slow fire. This entrée I cannot approve much of on account of the greased paper which is to appear at the table. NO 9.-- Les Filets Mignons à la Maréchale. The filets mignons of 'mutton are to be taken off from under the saddle, take off all the fat; flatten the fillets with the handle of your knife, and dip them into crumbs of bread. After having broiled them of a fine colour, sauce them with the Maréchale. (See Sauces.) 142 me manner NO 10.-Les Filets Mignons de Mouton en . ' Chevreuil. You must have the fillets of four saddles of mutton, which of course produce eight filets mignons. Lard them in the same manner as fillets of rabbits, next pickle them in a marinade crue, such as thyme, parsley, bay-leaves, onions, salt, pepper and vinegar. When they have been laying for two or three hours in this mari- nade, mark them in a sauté pan between two layers of bacon, and bake them. When done glaze them, and serve them up with a poivrade under them. (See Sauces.) N. 11.-Les Filets Mignons à la purée d'Oseille. These are to be parés and larded as in No 10. Mark them as a fricandeau, by which is meant that you make a bed of roots in a stew- pan, these you cover with a second bed of layers of bacon; then you lay your larded fillets on the bacon, and powder them over with a little salt. Moisten but little. They only require one hour to be done, between two fires, one on the top, another at bottom. When they are done, reduce the liquor and put your fillets into that glaze. Serve under them the purée d'oseille. (See Sauces.) 143 N.B.—They are also sent up à la chicorée, de la Soubise, à la Macédoine, &c. NO 12.-Les petits Carrés de Mouton en Aigrettes. Take the best part of two necks of mutton, parez the fillet, lard it as a fricandeau ; take off the upper skin of the flank : then take a piece of cold noix of veal, likewise a piece of cold boulli beef, which cut round, a little larger thani your hand. You wrap this beef up in a very thick layer of bacon, which you tie round the beef. Next turn the mutton with the larded fillets downwards, and the fat upwards : mark this in the same manner as the filets mignons, with the purée d'oseille. When they are done, take out the beef and the bacon, and in the middle pour a Macédoine. (Sée Sauces.) NO 13.- Le Carré au Persil. Take the same two parts as above; after. having taken off the bones, take off also the nerve as if you were going to lard them. You have in readiness a few branches of parsley, quite green; with which you lard the fillet only but very thick, for when well done the parsley is diminished considerably as it gets dry. Before. you spit your mutton it must be marinated in oil SS 144 and salt, an onion cut into slices, &c. The oil makes the parsley crisp, and preserves its green colour. Send up with a poivrade, or an Espagnole. (See Sauces.) N? 14.- Les Carbonades à la Jardinière, TAKE the covered parts of two saddles of mutton, and cut off the skin that is over the fat, without stripping the fillet. Cut each sad- - dle in two. Roll the flank after you have shortened the ribs. Skewer your little carbo- nades, and braize them as you have done above, NO 13. Notwithstanding they be fat enough, cover them with bacon, that the upper part may be kept white, that is to say, retain its natural colour, so that it may be glazed of a fine brown. (See Sauces.) N.B.-This entrée although frequently sent to table in France, is not often introduced in this country. It may be sent up à la chicorée, à l'oseille, or with any sauce whatever. NO 15.—Les Poitrines de Mouton à la Ste. - Menoult. These are to be braized with carrots, onions, spices, &c. When they are well done, drain them. Take out the bones and let the meat cool, between two plufonds that it may be kept 145 flat. When cold cut into hearts, into rounds, or into chops, just as you like. Brush them over with the yolk of an egg, and then dip them into crumbs of bread; next dip them into melted butter and give them another coat of bread crumbs. Put them into the oven to give them a fine brown, and then serve them up with a sauce hachée, or an Italienne, or en haricot. It is highly improper to have them over done. This is also a common dish. NO 16.-La Musette de Mouton à la Chicorée. Take a shoulder of mutton that has been kept for some while; bone it without taking off the thin skin that is found near the joint ; powder it over with a little pepper and salt. Then pass a piece of packthread round, as tailors do round a button, fasten the packthread, and mould the shoulder of mutton quite round. You have pre- served the knuckle so that it may resemble a bag-pipe. Braize it, and season it well. After having drained and glazed it, send it up with either chicorée, or oseille. N. B.-It may also be stuffed, and a flowret larded in the middle part, and sent up with white beans à la Lionaise. (See Sauces.) 146 NO 17.- Langues de Mouton aux Navets. Take eight tongues of an equal size; let them disgorge in a little water and flour, and next blanch them. When thoroughly blanched, mark them in a stew-pan to braize them. In case you should have a braize of beef, or of mutton, or any others, as they will all equally answer the purpose for sheep's tongues, when they are done you peel thein and cut them in two. Dish them en miroton, and mask them with the sauce of the haricot, the turnips of course being put in the middle. (See Sauces.) N. 18.--Langues de Mouton aux Laitues. These tongues are to be braized as above, the same as those you wish to cook in any way whatever. Take a dozen and a half of full eabbage- lettuce, wash them very clean, and blanch them. When they are cold, and that you have squeezed all the water out of them, mark them in a stew-pan, surrounded with layers of bacon; moisten them with a little braize, or a poële, or any thing to make them rich. Otherwise take the pot-top, with a little broth and salt. When your lettuces are quite done, you drain them, and squeeze them in a cloth to extract the grease. Dish them en NI Surrou rosates, namely a tongue, a lettuce, and so on successively. Put a large tongue in the middle, to improve the look of the rosate. Another time, you cut your tongues in two, and dish them en miroton, that is one half of a tongue, and a lettuce alternately. In this case you put a jardinière in the middle, and mask both the tongues and the lettuce with the Espagnole. N° 19.-Langues de Mouton au gratin. Cut as many toasts of bread in the shape of cocks’-combs, as you have tongues. Take soine farce fine. (See Chap. IV, N. 6.) Erect a little dome in the centre of your dish, and dress your tongues in the said farce, leaving however room enough between to place one of the toasts ; then put your dish into the oven. When your farce and tongues are done take them out of the oven, and drain all the grease ; they must be covered with bacon, in order that they may not get dry, (unless a mould may be procured to close her- metically) you then put your toasts fried of a fine brown colour between each tongue, and your sauce with a thick essence. (See Sauces.) N? 20.- Langues de Mouton en Papillotes. The tongues are to be cut in two, and put · L 2 148 into a ducelle, or in fine herbs, the same as chops à la Maintenon. When you put any meat whatever en papillotes, you must use as great a quantity of fine herbs as possible. (See N: 8.) NO 21.-Langues de Mouton émincés à la Chi- corée. First cut your tongues in two; next mince them equally, and throw them into the chicorée à l'Espagnole. (See Sauces.) NO 22.-Emincé de Mouton aux Concombres. Roast a leg of mutton that has been kept for a long time. When done verd cuit, let it cool ; when quite cold parez the nerves, skin, fat, &c. &c. next make an émincé which throw into the sauce aux concombres à l’Espagnole. (See Sauces.) N: 23.- Emincé de Mouton à la Chicorée. This is to be prepared in the like manner to all other émincés of mutton. Only observe that éminees of black meat, as we call them, require brown sauces; and that the meat must never boil a second time, as it would become tough. 149 NO 24.- Les Queues de Mouton à la purée de Pois. DISGORGE the tails in water to draw out the blood ; next blanch them, and braize them in an old braize; otherwise they are to be sea- soned with carrots, onions, spices, &c. When done, drain and glaze them. Then let them get a little dry in the oven. Put the purée de pois under them, the same if you use the purée d'oseille. N. 25.- Les Queues de Mouton à la St. Laurent. BRAIZE them in the same manner as those above; drain them and let them cool. Mind to give them a pleasing shape. Next brush them over with the yolk of an egg, and dip them into crumbs of bread. Then dip them into melted butter and crumbs of bread again. Put them into the oven till they be of a fine brown, if your oven be hot enough; if not broil them and send them up with rich gravy, or an Italienne. N.B.-The entrées of mutton, from N: 17, to this last number are not very frequently sent up to table in England, but in France they are held in high estimation. The tails are served in different ways, but the most commendable is with green peas. (See pois au lard, NO 10.) L 3 150 · N? 26.—Les Cervelles de Mouton en Matelotie. DETAch the brains from the head without breaking them. Put them into a large vessel with some luke warm water; take off the skin and let them disgorge for two hours. When they are become quite white, boil them in water, vivegar, and salt, and when they are done, serve them up with a sauce that is called matelotte, which is to be made as follows. You have a good Espagnole, glaze some small white onions (see oignons braisés) and a few mushrooms in your salcc; together with a few cock's-combs. Dish your brains in Aowrets, with some toast of · bread in the shape of a cock's-comb between each ; then mask with the sauce, and let the ingredients, or ragoût, be put in the middle. NO 27.- Les Pieds de Mouton à la Poulette. Take a dozen of sheep's-trotters well scalded. Wash them in boiling water and stew them in a blanc (see Sauces); when well done, take some sauce tournée rather rich, and let your trotters have a gentle boil, as merely to help the thickening, into which you have put a little chopt and blanchied parsley with the juice of a lemon. If you should happen to have no sauce tournée, make a little roux blanc, moisten it with good consommé, seasoned with a bunch 641.64 • U 19 151 of parsley and small onions, and a few mush- rooms. Let this sauce stew on the corner of the stove; skim the grease, and after having re. duced it to that state when the thickening may be thrown in, drain the sauce through a tammy, and boil the trotters, that the sauce may get thick, and stick to the meat. NO 28.-Les Pieds de Mouton, en Canelons. Take some mutton trotters as above, and stew them in the like manner, but do not let them be over done, as they are to be stuffed with a farce, which could not be done in the latter case. Introduce the farce à quenelles. When your trotters are well stuffed; mark them between layers of bacon, and moisten them with a poële. Stew them for half an hour only, on account of the farce. Drain them, and mask them with an Espagnole. N? 29.—Les Pieds de Mouton en Marinade ARE to be prepared in the like manner as those above. Make a marinade cuite, wherein you leave the trotters to marinate. Then drain them, and dip them in a paste, fry them of a fine brown, and when well drained send them up, with parsley fried green in the middle. ..) · 24 152 For a marinade cuite, take carrots, onions, a little parsley roots, a clove, a little thyme and a few bay-leaves, and a shalot, which mince together. Fry them a little, or what is generally termed white in a little butter. When the roots begin to colour, moisten with half water and half vinegar; let the roots and vegetables get quite done ; season with pepper and salt, and drain through a silk sieve, whatever you may chuse to marinate. With regard to the batter intended for frying marinades, fritteaux, &c. put about four spoon- fuls of flour into an earthern-pan, with a little salt, a little olive oil, and moisten with a suf- ficient quantity of water, that the paste may not cord. When the flour is well mixed, beat the whites of three eggs, which mix with your paste, and then put in whatever you may wish to fry; let it be done instantly, however. This method is preferable to any other, especially when beer is used; except perhaps such as may be recom- mended for artichokes, orlies, &c. &c. &c. NO 30.-Rognons de Mouton à la Brochette. Take some kidneys that have been kept for a while, cut them in two and use a small skewer to keep them open, in imitation of two shells; 153 powder them over with a little pepper and salt, dip them into a little melted butter, and broil them just as you are going to serve up. Broil the side that you have cut opened first: when you broil the other side the whole of the gravy issues on the upper part. Mind when you take them off the fire, that the aforesaid gravy be not dropt down. Have some parsley chopt very fine, mixed with fresh butter, the juice of a lemon, pepper, and salt; put a little of that mixture over each kidney, and send up to table in a hot dish. N.B.-Kidneys are an excellent breakfast for sportsmen, but are seldom sent up to dinner. NO 31.-Rognons au Vin de Champagne ARE prepared in every respect as in N? 19. Entrées de Bæuf. NO 32.—Le Quartier de Mouton aur Haricots. SEE Relevés de Potage, No 6. With the observation that you are not to braize, boil, or roast at the same time such meat that will not require to be so long done. NO 33.- Le Gigot braisé, called generally de Sept Heures. See Relevés de Potages, Nº 7. 154 N? 34.-Le Quartier de Niouton, farcie à la Lyonaise. Take a leg of mutton with half of the saddle. Bone it without damaging the skin, cut off all the fat; then take some fat bacon, about one. third of the quantity of your meat: chop the bacon and the meat together, season the whole well, with minced parsley in the farce; now stuff the skin of the leg of mutton, sow it under- ways, wrap the whole in a cloth, and braize it as a gigot de sept heures. (See gigot de sept heures.) Drain it a short time before you serve up, in order to be capacitated to take off the packthread. Then glaze and serve up with the Lyonaise. (See Sauces.) N? 35.-La Selle de Mouton rôtie. Take off the skin, if not it becomes too brown, and resists the knife. NO 36.-Carré de Mouton bouilli. Strip a neck of mutton, the best part I mean, of the skin and of the bones, which are too deformed. Boil it for an hour and a half. Then send it up with turnips mashed with a little butter and cream. NO 57.—Gigot de Mouton bouilli. The same as the above, only boil longer according to the size. 155 CHAP. VII. ENTRÉES OF VEAL. NO 1.-Côtelettes de Veau grillés à l'Italienne. • Take the best part of a neck of veal; cut the ribs one by one, flatten them, and parex them nicely. Next dip them into butter only and broil them on a slow fire, that they may get a fine brown colour. Do not forget to powder a little pepper and salt before you dip them into the . butter, and send them to table with an Italienne rousse. N: 2.-Côtelettes de Veau à la Vénitienne, dites .. aux fines Herbes. Take the same part as above; when your cutlets are well parées, take a quarter of a pottle of mushrooms, a few shalots, a little parsley, chop the whole very fine separately, rasp a little fat bacon, and a small bit of butter, and stew your fine herbs on a slow fire. As soon as they are fried, put your cutlets with the fine 156 herbs; and stew them over a small stove. When they are done and well seasoned with salt and pepper, skim off as much grease as you can, put in a spoonful of sauce tournée and thicken your sauce with the yolks of three eggs, mixed with a little cream, and the juice of a lemon. NO 3.-Côtelettes de Veau à la Dauphine. Take six fine cutlets of veal, and parez them on one side only, but all on the same side: lard them like a fricandeau, only let the bacon be cut finer; let them be done in the same manner; then reduce the liquor in which they have been stewed, with which you glaze them. Serve up with either chicorée, or oseille. (See Sauces.) NO 4.-Côtelettes de Veau à la Mirepoix. Put a little fresh butter, some few small shreds of ham, a little thyme, the half of a bay-leaf, a few stalks, or a bunch of parsley, into a stew-pan. Then put the cutlets, which have been parées and seasoned as above, over the ham and butter and season them well. Next sweat them on a very slow fire. When they are done, drain the grease ; pour in two spoonfuls of Espagnole, and one spoonful of consommé, to detach the glace, the juice of a lemon. Send up your cutlets masked with this sauce, after having taken out the thyme 157 and bay-leaf. If you should choose to serve up the ham cut into fanciful figures, you may. NO 5.-Cótelettes de Veau en Papillottes, or à la Maintenon. THESE are to be prepared in the same manner as indicated in N: 2. When they have been stewed for a short time with the fine herbs, you let them cool. You then cut some bacon into hearts, which you put on each side of your cutlets to prevent the paper from catching fire, then you wrap them well in the paper and rub the paper with oil, and broil them on a very slow fire. N! 6.-Côtelettes de Veau à la Chingara. PAREZ your cutlets as above. Sweat them with a little butter and ham ; when they have been well seasoned, and are done, cut some slices of tongue à l'écarlate of the size of your cutlets, which you glaze, and with which each cutlet is to be covered. Serve them up with an essence detached from the glace. NO 7.—Cótelettes de Veau à la Dreur. These are to be cut very thick, and larded with large slips of ham. Season and mark them wrapt up in bacon and carrots, onions, thyme, cloves, bay-leaves, &c. Lay the parures on the 158 top, and moisten with two spoonfuls of rich broth; then let them stew over a very slow fire. When they are done, lay them in a dish to cool. Next parez them of an agreeable shape, and put them into the glaze of the liquor which you have reduced. When dinner time is at hand, glaze them of a fine brown, and serve up with an Espagnole, or sauce haché. NO 8.—Cótelettes de Veau à la Chalons. : These are prepared in the same manner as those above, NO 7. The only difference is that they are larded chequer like, with pickled cu- cumbers, ham and fat bacon, and that the former are larded with ham alone, Serye them up with a sauce hachée, or purée of sorrel. N: 9.-Côtelettes de Veau à la Financière. These are to be prepared, larded, done, and glazed as those à la Dauphine; put under them a ragoût à la financière, (see Sauces) and be- tween each cutlet a large quenelle. (See Sauces.) N? 10.- Le Carré de V'eau à la Créme. Take the same part as is used for the cutlets; cut the bones short enough to be enabled to roll the flanks beneath : give it a square shape ; and marinate it for a couple of hours, with oil, parsley, sliced shalats, pepper, salt, thyme, 159 and bay-leaves. Fasten it on the spit, so that the shape be not altered, and then wrap it up in buttered paper. When roasted for about an hour and a half, take off the paper. Have ready a velouté reduced, which you pour over your carré de veau, with which you baste it till the sauce adheres all round. Serve up with a velouté. NO 11.—Le Carré de Veau à la Mirepoix. You mark a mirepoix with rasped bacon, butter, bit of ham, thyme, bay-leaves, pepper, salt, &c. Melt the whole, as we call it on a slow fire. When that is done put your meat, that has been prepared as above, into the mirepoir. Stew it a little, and let it cool. When cold take two sheets of white paper, butter one of them and trim it with layers of bacon. Then lay your mirepoix over the bacon and close the paper hermetically. Wrap the whole up in several sheets of paper, and bake it in an oven, which however must not be too hot. It will be done in an hour and a half's time. When done take off the paper and send up to table with an Espa- nole, or an Italienne. N12.—Le Carré de Veau à la Barbarie, Trim your curré as above. Cut some black 160 truffles into nails, and with these lard your meat. Put them in quite square and level. Braize your meat as you would do a fricandeau, but it requires bacon on the top, that your veal may retain its white colour, and the truffles their black one. When done glaze it slightly, and serve under it an Italienne aux truffes. (See Sauces.) NO 13.-Carré de Veau à la Ste. Menhout. BRAIZE a carré de veau as above, but without Jarding it. Send it up glazed with any sauce you may fancy. If it be returned untouched, make a sauce d'attelets, with a little sauce tournée, and a little Italienne blanche (see Sauces), which reduce on the fire. When your sauce is quite thick, throw into it the yolks of two eggs. Spread this sauce over your meat, cover it likewise with crumbs of bread; then have a little melted butter, and strew some more crumbs over it, and moisten it by using the brush. When your meat is thus well soaked, put it into the oven to give it a good colour, or use the salamander, Send it up with a sauce hachée. (See Sauces.) N.B. All the entrées of veal such as carrés, fricandeaux, côtelettes, sweetbreads, &c. are served up with all sorts of purées, and la Macé- doine, in the summer season. It is useless to 161 led multiply articles when they may be explained more briefly. NO 14.-Le Fricandeau aux différentes Purées. FRICANDEAU is a very good entrée when made with due care and attention, but it is seldom cooked with that degree of perfection which it requires. To make a good fricandeau, your veal must be of the best quality, which you may know by the meat being white, and not thready. Take off the skin of a noir de veau, flatten it on a cloth or a clean towel, then at one stroke level it with your knife, for å fricandeau that is cut off at several times never looks so well. When you have paré the top part, turn it round, make slits in the middle, that it may taste more of the seasoning. Now lard it very thick, which is not generally done properly in England. The consequence is, that the bacon not being laid sufficiently crossways, the shreds shrink, and cannot be properly glazed. Never blanch your fricandeau after it has been larded, as some people will, but mark it in a stew-pan large enough to contain the fricandeau besides plenty of roots cut into slices, such for instance as two carrots, two large onions, and some roots of ma 162 parsley, besides a small quantity of mace, all- spice, thyme, bay-leaves, and whole pepper. Put all these in the bottom of your stew- pan, with layers of very fat bacon, on the top of the vegetables, as lean bacon gives a red colour to the fricandeau. When you have thus well covered your roots, erect a small dome in the centre, lay the meat over the bacon, powder a little salt over the fricandeau, and moisten with a sufficient quantity of broth to cover the roots without reaching the said fricandeau. Then put a great deal of fire on the cover of the stew- pan, keeping very little beneath the stew-pan. It is not amiss to observe that the fricandeau being done in this way retains a good shape, and all its gravy. If you should wish to cook it, as I ann farther going to direct, the moment it is parti (which signifies when it begins to boil) you put it over a very slow, equal fire, for three hours and a half, if it be not very large. Baste it frequently with the liquor: then take a needle à brider, which run through the middle: if it gets in and comes out easily, the fricandeau then is done enough. Now again put a great deal of fire over it to make the bacon firm, which otherwise would break, th time you glaze it. The liquor reduced is to be used to glaze the fricandeau. 163 Serve up with that the purée the season will afford, or la Macédoine, &c. (See Sauces.) N.B. The fricandeau may vary with regard to the shape, but the savour is always the same, if it be done properly. If for instance a fri- candeau is to be served when there is a grand party it is requisite to give it another shape than for a family dinner. Though an expensive dish when served alone, it becomes rather cheap if there be a grand dinner, as yeal in abundance is wanted to make the broths and sauces. The noix de veau besides glaze, will supply a very elegant and good entrée. In the summer season you give it the shape of a turtle. You cut off part of each extremity of your fricandeau, you take the tops of asparagus which you lay beneath after having poured in a Macédoine. Have four braized lettuces ready, put one at each corner, as sham claws. Asparagus and lettuce eat well with a Macédoine and of course they may be used without any danger of their being disap- proved of. In the winter season you make quenelles of veal, which you place instead of the above-mentioned articles, and serve up with an Espagnole. Another Method. When your fricandeau is fully larded, split M 2 164 it through the middle. Take a very large turnip, or a piece of cold veal, which has been used to make a sauce, cut either round, or oval, wrap it up in bacon, and thrust it within the cleft, which you have practised in the fricandeau. Mark this as the other, and let it be done in the like manner. You must observe that it will be done sooner, that is in less time. Glaze it. Now take either French beans, or asparagus; place them erect inside of the two extremities of the cleft, and pour a Macédoine between, with a very large sweetbread larded and glazed over the middle, which produces a very pleasing effect. The same may be done for a fricandeau en puits, with a blanquette in the middle. NO 15.—Les Grenadins à la purée de Céleri blanc. We call grenadins small fillets of veal larded • as a fricandeau, cooked and sauced in the same manner. Out of a noir of veal you may make two or three grenadins according to its size. It is no easy matter to explain the manner of cut- ting them; let it suffice to say, that being much thinner than a fricandeau, they naturally are done in less time. They are served up with a Alacédoine, or with all sorts of purées. G 165 . NO 16.-La Noix de Veau en Bedeau. It is so called because in France the parish beadles wear gowns of two colours, one half of one colour, the other half of another. Parez this is as follows. Take the noix of a young heifer. If intended for an entrée choose the s'nallest you can pro. cure ; if for a remove, the largest that can be got. Flatten it a little retaining the udder. Form a crescent on the border of the fat, and parez that part where there is no fat. Lard it as a fricandeau ; let it be done in the same manner, only cover with bacon the part that is not larded, in order to keep it white, and glaze it slightly when done. Being done in the same style as the fricandeau it is served up with the same sauces. N? 17.--Veau à la Bourgeoise. The only part which I could wish to recom. mend in this case is the cassis, which is fat, and a luscious eating. It is not generally sent up when there is a grand dinner, but for a family. dinner it may prove very acceptable indeed. The plain way of cooking this, I reckon the best, and will explain it accordingly. Take a stew-pan large enough to make your veal firm in a little butter; when it is of a fine brown colour all M 3 166 round, put in a few carrots, onions, spices, a little lean bacon, and two calf's feet seasoned with pepper, salt, thyme, &c. Moisten with two spoonfuls of broth, and let the whole stew for a couple of hours on a very slow fire. When done drain the grease, take out the spice and serve up the veal, with the roots all round. N? 18.—Les Ris de Veau à la Dauphine, If you use round dishes, you must have four sweetbreads ; if a long dish three large ones will be sufficient. Mind, at any rate, to select them of a large size and very white. Parez the nerves and the fat; throw them into warm water to draw out the blood and make them as white as possible. When thoroughly disgorged, blanch them a little, that you may lard them with greater facility. As soon as they are larded, rub a stew-pan all over with butter, lay your sweet- breads over the butter, powder them over with salt, and stew them with a deal of fire on the top, and very little beneath. When they are come of a fine brown, cover them with a round of paper, and lessen the fire on the top. If they be large it will require three-quarters of an hour to do them. If they be too much done they become soft, and are not so palatable. When properly done, drain them, and put them in a COD roun 167 pan with some glaze, and the bacon beneath. Leave them in the glaze till dinner time; then drain them afresh, and glaze them of a fine brown. Serve them up with la chicorée au velouté. (See Sauces.) N. 19.—Les Ris de Veau à la Financière. Theseare to belarded and done in every respect as those above. Send up with a fine quenelle in the middle, and under them the ragout à la financière, or le ragoût à l'Allemande. N° 20.- Les Ris de Veau à la Dreux. Let your sweetbreads disgorge till they be quite white. Then blanch them thoroughly, which is made known when they are quite firm. Then set them to cool in cold water. Lard them with ham, chequer-like, very close to the level of the sweetbreads, mark your sweetbreads between layers of bacon ; inoisten with a good poële, and stew them for three-quarters of an hour. Now drain and glaze them, and serve up either with a velouté, or Espagnole, or purée d'oseille, &c. N21.-La Blanquette de Veau aux Concom- bres. Roast a carré, or a loin of veal. The leg M 4 168 part is tough and dry, as every one must know. When cold cut into scollops, and put it into the sauce biunquette. (See Sauces.) Take six fine cucumbers, cut them into quarters, purez them about the size of your scollops: then, take the parures and some other pieces which mince with a little onion. Fry the whole together in a little butter; when your cucumbers are en- tirely melted, moisten with a sauce tournée, and stew them on the corner of the stove for an hour; skim off the grease, and rub the sauce through a tammy. Put the other cucumbers, in some sauce tournée, and let them boil till done. Then lay them in a hair sieve to drain. Put together your purée of cucumbers and the sauce tournée when you have boiled the cucumbers, being suf- ficiently reduced, thicken it with yolks of eggs well beaten and seasoned with salt and sugar. When your sauce is well thickened with the aforesaid articles and a little thick cream, you put in your meat and cucumbers, and keep your sauce hot, that the meat may have a better savour. This entrée must be sweet. NO 22.—Blanquette de Veau à la Paysanne. Roast your veal as above ; cut it in the same way ; reduce the sauce tournée, season well, pit your vcal into the sauce before the thickening; chop some parsley very fine before you mix it 169 with the thickening with the juice of half a lemon; stir the stew-pan round without using a spoon, and send up to table quite hot. N. B. This is a very good method, but if you can cut your veal whilst quite hot, it will be a great improvement, as the sauce then will be better imbibed with the meat. ca N23.-Escalopes de Ris de Veau aux petits Pois.. Take four fine sweetbreads, let them disgorge and blanch them thoroughly. Next cut them into scollops, as large as possible. Mark them in a sauté pan with clarified butter, and a little salt. A quarter of an hour before you send up, sautez them over a stove, with a clear fire, turn them round, and when done, drain the butter, and put a little glaze into the sauté pan. Keep stirring your sweetbreads in the glaze; dish them en miroton, and send up the peas in the middle. (See Sauces, pois au roux, or au blanc.) When you have sweetbreads of desserte, cut them into scollops, make them hot in a little consommé, and after having dished them en miroton, mask them with the peas. NO 24.-Les Attelets de Ris de Veau à Ilta- lienne. Take some fine sweetbreads, as white as can 170 be procured. Blanch them, and stew them in a well seasoned liquor of braize. When done, drain them; and when cold cut them into squares of about an inch. Put those squares into a sauce d'attelets, and let them cool. When your sauce is cold, skewer your said squares, alternately with a bit of calf's udder ready done, using silver skewers, and give them as far as possible a square shape, all of a size. Then, moistened with the sauce, dip them into crumbs of bread only. Now give them a complete square shape, and dip them into an omelette of four eggs, whites and yolks beaten together, cover them over again with crumbs of bread, which level with a knife. Now again powder some crumbs of bread on the cover of a stew-pan, lay your attelets over thesc. The moment you are going to send up to table fry them of a fine brown, and sauce them with an Italienne rousse, or blanche, as you fancy. (See Sauces.) N? 25.--Les Escalopes de Ris de Veau en caisse. LET your sweetbreads disgorge and be blanched as above. When they have been laying for a time in cold water, make small scollops of them, and mix them with a dusselle, which is to be made in the following way. . Take half a pint of mushrooms, four or five 171 shalots, a little parsley, and chop the whole very fine separately. Now rasp a little fat bacon, put a small lump of fresh butter. Stew your fine herbs over a slow fire, and put your scollops with your fine herbs, likewise, seasoned with salt, pepper, and a little pounded spices. When done drain all the grease ; then put your scol- lops into small paper cases fried in olive oil. When I say you are to add a deal of seasoning, I mean plenty of fine herbs. Then strew over a few crumbs of bread fried in butter. Lay your paper cases for a moment in the oven, and when you are going to serve up pour into each of them a little thin Espagnole, and squeeze the juice of a lemon. NO 26.-Croquettes de Ris de Veau. Take such sweetbreads as have already been served, or cook some a à la dreux, with this difference, that they are not to be larded. Cut them into as small dice as possible. Have a good velouté reduced ready. Throw your sweet- breads into that velouté, and give them a boil, that they may taste of the sauce. Then lay them on a plate to cool. When cold roll them into any shape you like, round, oval, or long. Of all things do not give them the shape of pears as some folks will do, as in this latter case they 172 must be more handled than otherwise, without any improvement to the quality. Serve up with parsley, fried green in the middle. NO 27.—Cervelles de l'eau en Matelotte. Take some few brains of an equal size. Strip them of the upper skin, let them disgorge in water, then boil them in water, salt, a little vinegar and butter. When done, drain and dish them, serve them up either with la sauce matelotte, or la financière. (See Sauces.) NO 28.-Cervelles de Veau à la Maitre d'Hótel. Let them be prepared or done as above. Make some cock's-combs of bread which fry in butter till of a fine colour. Dish them between each half of the brains, which you have divided, and mask the brains with a maitre d'hôtel. (See Sauces.) N? 29.-Cervelles au Beurre noir. The same as above with regard to the stewing. Fry some parsley very green, and some butter in a frying-pan, till such time as it does no longer chink. Then put the brains into a stew- pan with vinegar, water, salt, and pepper, when done send up to table with the sauce under the brains, and the fried parsley in the middle, 173 NO 30.--Cervelles de Veau au Soleil. In case you should have any brains of desserte, make a marinade cuite, give a boil to the brains in the said marinade. Then drain them and wrap them up in paste. (See Pátes, and N. 29, Entrées de Mouton.) NO 31.-Cervelles de Veau Sauce aux Tomates. These are to be prepared and done as those above. Cut slices of bread in the shape of cock's-combs, fry and glaze them, and dish them between the brains with the sauce aux tomates under them. (See Sauces.) NDRONS & NO 32.-Tendrons de Veau à la Jardinière. Tendrons are found at the extremity of the ribs. Previously to your detaching them, you parez them from the dry bone which is next to them, you then part them from the bone and scollop them in the shape of oysters. Set them to disgorge that they may be made very white. Now blanch them through. Let them cool. When cold parez them, and mark them in a stew-pan wrapt up in layers of bacon. Put in a carrot, an onion, a bay-leaf, some thyme and salt; moisten them with some good broth, or with a poële if you have any, and let them stew for four hours as gently as you can. 174 When they are done, drain them, and put them into a sauté pan with a little glaze. Keep stirring them over the fire, that they may get the taste of the glaze. Dish them en mira ton, and serve la jardinière (see Sauces) in the , middle. N: 33.—Tendrons de Veau aux petits Pois à l'Espagnole. With whatever sauce you wish to serve the tendrons de veau, they must always be done as indicated above. They may be served in diffe- rent ways, that is, either white or brown, which is explained in the article of Sauces. The ten- drons à l'Espagnole are to be drained an hour before you send them up. When you are sure there is no more grease left, put them with the peas, that they may get the taste of them, give them one or two boils, then dish them en miro- ton, and mask them with your peas à l'Espa- gnole. m NO 34.- Tendrons de Veau aux Pois à l'Alle- mande, dits au blanc. Braize your tendrons as above. When they are done, drain them, and glaze them in a sauté pan. Dish them en miroton, and put your peas in the middle. 175 NO 35.—Tendrons de Veau aux Laitues à l'Espagnole. Braize and glaze your tendrons as above. Then take some lettuce braizées. (See entrées de mouton, N. 18.) Dish your tendrons en miroton, that is a tendron and a lettuce alter- nately, and mask with an Espagnole. NO 36.—Tendrons de Veau en Marinade, dites au Soleil. If your tendrons have been sent to table once, and are returned untouched, you cannot send them up a second time dressed in the same man- ner, as they no longer retain their fine colour. Put them into a marinade cuite, and then in paste, and serve them up with a poivrade. NO 37.— Tendrons de Veau en Chipolata au blanc. See tureens, N. 8. They may also be served as entrées. Glaze them, and put the chipolata (see Sauces) in the middle. N38.— Tendrons de Veau en Chipolata à l' Es- pagnole. See tureens, Nº 9. They are also served as entrées, provided you have soine deep dishes to en 176 contain all the ingredients and the sauce; for otherwise you had better not send them up. N: 39.— Tendrons de Veau à la purée de Marons. The tendrons are served with all sorts of purées, either peas, celery, sorrel, onions, mush- rooms, &c. but it is useless to repeat similar ob- servations. Tendrons with a purée must always be glazed, and dished en miroton when served as entrées, with the purée whatever in the middle. (See Sauces.), NO 40.—Les Oreilles de Veau farcies frites. Take six or eight calf's ears, and let them disgorge. Blanch them, and then stew them in a blanc. (See calf's head, No 10, Removes.) When the ears are done enough, that is when they can stand upright, drain them ; let them be cold; then introduce a farce fine (see farces fines, entrées of fowl à la créme) into the hollow part. Give the ear the shape of a horn. Dip it into an omelette and crumbs of bread successively twice, and next fry them till they be of a fine brown. Serve under them a maître d'hôtel grasse, or the sauce tomates. ... . : 177 NO 41.- Oreilles de Veau Sauce aux Tomates. THESE ears are to be done as those above. Slit with your knife the part of the horn. Cut the thickest side very flat that they may stand uprightDish them en fleurons à blanc, over the sauce aux tomates. (See Sauces.) NO 42.-Les Oreilles de Veau à la Hollandoise. As above à blanc, and the Hollandoise verte under them. (See Sauces.) The Hollandoise is a sauce tournée reduced, and a verd de persil with the juice of a lemon. NO 43.- Les Oreilles de Veau à la Ravigotte · Are to be done as those above, and slit in the same manner, and served up with a ravigotte, (See Sauces.) N. 44.— Foie de Veau piqué à la Broche. Take a fine calf's liver of a light colour. Lard it as a fricandeau, and pickle it in vinegar with an onion cut into slices, some stalks of parsley, salt, pepper, thyme, and a bay-leaf. When it has been for four and twenty hours in the pickle, fasten it on a spit, roast it, and baste it frequently. Then glaze it with a glace bien - blonde, as it naturally has a black colour. Serve : under it a poivrade. 178 N. 45. Les Escalopes de Foie de Veau aur fines Herbes. Take a nice calf's liver, and cut it into slices, which parez in the shape of hearts. Then take some fine herbs, parsley, and shalots, which you stew a little on the fire. You then sautex your calf's liver with the herbs over a gentle fire. When it is done on one side, you turn it round and season it with pepper and salt. Now dish your liver. Put a little Aour with your herbs, moisten them with a little jus and broth, and let them stew for ten minutes. Next squeeze the juice of a lemon ; and with this sauce mask the liver that you have dished en miroton. This to be sure is a common entrée, yet it is very palatable. N? 46.- Les petites Noix d'Epaules de Veau à l'Oseille. The petites noir in Paris are generally sold at the rate of half a pound of meat. Ten or even twelve are required for an entrée, which is a very dainty dish for those people who know how to eat it. In general they are very fat, for which reason you are forced to send them up to table with the fat, as it keeps the noir mellow. Set · them to disgorge as you have done the tendrons. 181 CHAP. VIII. ENTRÉES OF FOWLS. KE NO 1.- Fowl au Consommé, generally termed au gros Sel. Take a fine fat fowl, the flesh and skin of which are perfectly white, empty the fowl with- out making too great an aperture, singe it gently and scald the legs, which are to be turned inside of the body ; then lay on it a pretty thick layer of fat bacon ; fasten it tight, and let it be stewed in consommé, which mnst boil before you put in your fowl, otherwise it would lose its white colour. If the fowl be of a larger size, it will require an hour and a quarter before it is done enough: if it be but of a common size, one hour will do. Next you must drain it in a dish, wipe off all the grease, and send it up with a little of the liquor in which it has boiled, with the addition of a little salt and glace. N 3 182 me N° 2.- Fowl, or gros Sel. The same as above, with the only difference, that you lay both over and under the fowl some crystalised salt, that has not been pounded. N? 3.--Fowl, à la Villeroi. 'Take a fine fowl, which may be known by the connoisseurs by a skin of a bluish hue marbled with grey: it is to be emptied and singed in the same manner' as indicated, NO 1. Let it be trussed, the legs turned down out- wards : inside of the body introduce a small quantity of butter kneaded with salt and lechon juice. The fowl to be put into an oval stewa pan, with a layer of fat bacon : you tiext pour some poële over it. (See Sauces, poële.) These articles that are braisés requiring to preserve their whiteness, are not to be kept on the fire so long as others. It requires only three-quarters of an hour for a fowl to be done in this style. A capon would require full an hour. To be served with sauce à la financière. (Vid. Säúces.) NO 4.-Fowl à la Montmorenci. Tue same care and attention are requisite in , this case as in the former. The fowl being trussed up, you have some boiling water ready, then laying hold of the animal by the saddle, 183 you dip the breast only into the water in order to procure additional firmness to the skin and fesh. You next dip it into cold water. When the fowl is quite cold, you lard the whole breast in the like manner as a fricandeau of veal, and put it in an ovali stew-pan, trimmed all round with fat bacon, but none at the top. There must be a brisk före over it, and a slow one under it, the same as for a fricandeave, and it will be done within three-quarters of an hour at most Dry your bacon, glaze of a good colour, and send up with sauce à l'Allemande. (See Sauces.)... ;?... ! NO 5.---Fouls à la, Conden PROCURB a nice fowl, singe and truss it up as above 3 sbit the breast, and introduce small slices of truffles cut in the following shape retete within those slits that you have made: cover the whole with slices of bacon, and let it be stewed as aforesaid ; care must be taken, how- ever, when you pour out the dripping, not to derange the symmetry. This dish requires to be garnished in imitation of a chambord with larded sweetbread, cock's-combs, pigeons à la gautier, large quenelles à la cuillière, and sauce à la financière. (See Sauces.) 184 :. .: NO 6.- Fowl à la Turqué. EMPTY a fine fowl; your rice having boiled a sufficient time in rich consommé, you season it with salt, and introduce some in the body of the fowl, which you next roast, well wrapped up in layers of bacon, and in paper; it requires an hour to have it sufficiently done. Send it up with rice, made very rich by means of a velouté. Your rice to be placed round the fowl, do not let it be too thin, and pour a little velouté over the fowl. Take particular care of keeping the fowl white, NO 7.--Fowl à la Dreux. The fowl to be singed and trussed up at above. In order to give it additional firmness use boiling water, as in N. 4. Cut some ham into squares ; lard the breast of the fowl in imitation of a small draught-board, put it into the stew-pan as above. The same time, and no longer is requisite for the fowl to be completely done. To this must be added the sauce à l Alle- mande. (See Sauces.) · N. 8.– Fowl, with green Oysters. SINGE and truss a nice fowl, and put it inta stew-pan, the same as in N° 3. When done 185 enough, drain it, and send it up with oyster sauce. (See Sauces.) N: 9.- Fowl aux Olives. SINGE, &c. &c. a fine fowl as above: then take some olives, which are to be blanched till they are no longer briny. You next boil then in a thin Espagnole. Skim your sauce and add a little lemon-juice, and pour it under the fowl. Şerve up with some stuffed olives, without stones. (See Sauce Espagnole.) - NO 10.-Fowl à la Créme. This dish is made out of a cold fowl, either roasted or stewed : you take off the breast and fleshy part of the fowl, in a square form with a little bread toasted and dipped in butter, to stop the aperture. You then have the farce à la créme indicated in N. 5, with which you fill the fowl. You then make a kind of a wall round the fowl with buttered paper, the said covered with bacon, in order that the fowl may not get too much colour. If this dish be placed on the flanks, the same farce may be served on toasts cut in square or heart shape lozenges, which are called témoins. These are to be baked in the oven, the same as the fowls, and 180 - the grease to be well drained. Send up with a thig Espagnole sauce. Nº 11. - Fowl à la Monglas. - This is likewise à fowl of desserte; you take off the breasť as above. You must have either ready an émincé, or a salpicor pretty thick, which is to be introduced cold, into the body of the fowl. Bcat the yolks of two eggs, with a little fresh melted butter : you then cover the breast of the fowl only with crumbs of bread; you next give it a colour à la salamandre, but you must be cautious of its not getting a brown colour au premier pain: now baste it with a Jittle butter ; take the red hot shovel to give the fowl a good brown colour on all sides; serve a brown sauce under it, if you have applied a salpicon; and a velouté if you have used an émincé, it may also be called a poutarde 'en surk prise. NO 12.- Fowl à la Dubaril, This must likewise be a fowl of desserte, bat yet very white.' You take off the breast as in NO 11. You then take the fleshy part of a nico white roast fowl, which you cat into small square pieces of an equal size; you also cut some tongue the same : next put these square 187 slices of fotóf and tongue in a bécharnelle pretty well thickened. Keep your fowl very hot. The montent you are going to serve it, pout your émincé inside the body of the fowl. Thin slices of tongue should be around the émincé on the top of the fowl'; serve under it á sauce, of ragoutt å l'Allemandé. N13.Fowl à la Mirepoix, otherwise à la ; . Cendre. .... You truss your fowl as in N: 1. You řete mark à mirepoix without its being melted; tha€ is to say, you scrape some bacont; a little batter; some few slices of hait, with a little thyme, bay-leaves, salt; and pepper. You then spread the whole on a sheet of white paper : you wrap your fowl up in this first sheet of paper, whichi you cover with several sheets more: let the whole bé closed hermetically, lest the grease should be lost; then put it in the oven if not too hot; if it should happen so to be; let the fowl be then covered with ashes, and over these have some live coals, but not too vivid for fear of the paper catching fire, which would spoil the fowl. It requires two hours for the fowls to be sufficiently done; when so, drain it well, and send it up with an Espagnole under it, à pai- trade; or a sauce haché. (See Saucés. 188 NO 14.- Fowl à la Cardinal. Take a nice white fowl, singe it, and pull out the bones without destroying the skin. You next have a farce à quenelles wherein you intro- duce a little beurre d'écrevisses. This farce, being made rather liquid, is to be injected first, between the skin and the flesh of the fowl, and then inside of the body. You then mould your fowl into an agreeable shape : you next put it into an oval stew-pan well trimmed with slices of bacon, and pour some poële over it (see poële) and leave it on the fire for an hour and a half. As it has no bones left it requires more time before it is done. Serve it up with a sauce à T'Allemande, to which you add a beurre d'écre- visses. (See Sauces.) But if you should have no craw-fish, take some lobster's-eggs, which pound with a little butter, and then rub through a hair sieve, to give a red colour to your sauce. Send it up with either an Allemande, to which you add some of those pounded lobster's-eggs, or a sauce aux tomates. (Love apples.) N: 15.- Fowl au Campine, à l'Oignon crud. Truss your fowl with the legs outwards, and roast it. It must be of a good colour. When done you slit the breast, cut raw onions in slices, which you introduce into the slits you have been US 189 making, and send it up with a poivrade brun, high seasoned. (See Sauces.) caso NO 16.-Fowl å la Tartare. Take a fine fowl, turn in the legs as usual, then cut it in two, take the bones off from the back, cut the breast bones, break those of the legs, flatten the fowl with the back of your knife, and season it with salt and pepper: then dip it into melted butter, and next into crumbs of bread equally on all sides. Next broil it to a fine colour, on a slow fire, that it may be done thoroughly. Send it up with the brown Ita- lienne. (See Sauces.) KE a NO 27.-Fowl à la Chingara. TAKE a nice fowl of a fine white colour, singe and pick it well; then cut it into four equal parts. Next cút some thin slices of ham, in a buttered stew-pan, and put the four quarters of the fowl over them; let the whole simmer for a while on red hot ashes : when the fowl is done, you drain the grease, and powder a little salt and pepper over the fowl; you then detach the glace formed by means of the liquor of the fowl and slices of ham, pour a little Espagnole, with the juice of a lemon, and send it up with the slices of ham over the four quarters, and four 188 NO 14.- Fowl à la Cardinal. Take a nice white fowl, singe it, and pull out the bones without destroying the skin. You. next have a farce à quenelles wherein you intro- duce a little beurre d'écrevisses. This farce, being made rather liquid, is to be injected first, between the skin and the flesh of the fowl, and then inside of the body. You then mould your fowl into an agreeable shape : you next put it into an oval stew-pan well trimmed with slices of bacon, and pour some poële over it (see poële) and leave it on the fire for an hour and a half. As it has no bones left it requires more time before it is done. Serve it up with a sauce à TAllemande, to which you add a beurre d'écre- visses. (See Sauces.) But if you should have no craw-fish, take some lobster's-eggs, .which pound with a little butter, and then rub through a hair sieve, to give a red colour to your sauce. Send it up with either an Allemande, to which you add some of those pounded lobster's-eggs, or a sauce aux tomates. (Love apples.) NO 15.-Fowl au Campine, à l'Oignon crud. Truss your fowl with the legs outwards, and roast it. It must be of a good colour. When done you slit the breast, cut raw onions in slices, which you introduce into the slits you have been 189 making, and send it up with a poivrade brun, high seasoned. (See Sauces.) NO 16.--Fowl à la Tartare. TAKE a fine fowl, turn in the legs as usual, then cut it in two, take the bones off from the back, cut the breast bones, break those of the legs, flatten the fowl with the back of your knife, and season it with salt and pepper: then dip it into melted butter, and next into crumbs of bread equally on all sides. Next broil it to a fine colour, on a slow fire, that it may be done thoroughly. Send it up with the brown Ita- lienne. (See Sauces.) N: 27.-Fowl à la Chingara. Take a nice fowl of a fine white colour, singe and pick it well; then cut it into four equal parts. Next cút some thin slices of ham, in a buttered stew-pan, and put the four quarters of the fowl over them ; let the whole simmer for a while on red hot ashes : when the fowl is done, you drain the grease, and powder a little salt and pepper over the fowl; you then detach the glace formed by means of the liquor of the fowl and slices of ham, pour a little Espagnole, with the juice of a lemon, and send it up with the slices of ham over the four quarters, and four 191 into the point of the hearts, to give them the appearance of chops : and do the same for all the rest. Season them with pepper and salt; then brush the fillets over with yolks of eggs, that the crumbs of bread may stick to them. When first dipped into crumbs; next dip them into melted butter, and then into crumbs again. Use your knife to level the bread, and broil your fillets over a brisk fire. The fillets being very thin, only require to get a light brown. Serve under them jus de veau reduced to glace. (See Sauces.) NO 21.--The Wings of Fowls à la St. Laurent. Take three fowls, divide the breasts into two parts, iLake off the fillets with the pinions, which you divest of the upper skin; then having re- moved from the wings the neryes and amalt bones, &c. brush them as above with yolks of eggs, then dip them into bread, melted butter, and bread again; next broil them in the same manner, and send them up with an Espagnole, thin, yet with a good substance. . . . . NO 22.- Filets of Fouls sautés au suprême. • Take off the fillets of three fowls, which will procure nine fillets, as two of the filets mignons are used to make a large fillet. You then prea 192 pare them all alike, and mask them in a sauté pan with some clarified butter and salt, and apply the velouté. (See Sauces.) When you have sauté the fillets, you drain the butter, but be cautious to retain the liquor of the fowls with a small quantity of the butter: be cautious to put a sufficient quantity of the velouté that you may be enabled to mask your fillets. Let them simmer gently without boiling, for the fillets then would get tough : now add two spoonfuls of thick cream, and send up with sliced bits of bread fried in butter, and glazed over, which are to be placed between the fillets. The sauce to be poured over the fillets only, NO 23.-Scollops of Fowls aux Concombres. Take off the fillets of three fowls, cut your scollops of the size of an half crown piece, dip them into some clarified butter, sautez them over a brisk fire, and throw them into the sauce aux concombres. (See Sauces.) UT N: 34.-Scollops of Fowls à l' Essence de Con- combres. THESE scollops are prepared in the same man- ner as those above, but the sauce is not the same; this is to be made in quite a different way. You cut your cucumbers of the same sa 193 size as your seollops ; the parures (parings) with such others as you may wish to add to them, sweat in a little butter till thoroughly done ; you then moisten them with a few spoon- fuls of corsommé, in order to extract the butter, which would spoil the look of the sauce. When you have skimmed the grease off your cucum- bers, reduce them very thick; add eight spoon. fuls of velouté to those cucumbers, and strain the whole through a tammy to make a purée. When you have sauté your scollops, drain them, and put them into that essence of cucumbers. The cucumbers are to be cut en escalopes en liards, and boiled in a little sauce tournée and a little sugar, when done drain them and put the sauce with the other to be reduced quite thick before you put the velouté to it; but take care not to let them boil, when mixed with the cu- cumbers, for fear the cream should curdle.' NO 25.-Les Escalopes de Poulardes que Truffes. These are prepared as those above, but at the moment when you throw your scollops into the butter, your truffles must be ready peeled, and cut of the same round form and dimension as your scollops. Season with a little salt; sautes your truffles and scollops, a few moments before 194 dinner time; and put them into a velouté, to which you have added a little reducion of truf fles. This reduction is made as follows. The parures are to be reduced in a little consommé, you introduce this glace into your scollops, and as this glace is always brown, you add three or four spoonfuls of thick cream to your sauté, to make the sauce white, and season it according to your palate. Do not forget to put the sauces through a tammy. N? 26.-Scollops of Fowl à la Conti aux. Truffes.. The same as NO 25, the only difference is, that you keep the filets mignons which you lard, one half with bacon and the other with truffles. You must take care your conties are not over done. Those that are harded with bacon, must be well covered with fire, and those that are decorated with truffles must be wrapped up in bacon and glazed. You give them the shape you like when you put them in the sauté pan, either in garlands, rosasses, &c. a NO 27.- Foul Scollops with green Peas. * These scollops are prepared, and done in the sámé manner as those above. When they have been sautés, you put them in a sauce à blanc güette'arix pois. (See Sauces.) 195 sonne NO 28.-Filets de Poulardes à la Chingara. TAKE the fillets of three fowls, which you dvest of the skin and nerves. Mark them with clarified butter in a sauté pan, together with some slices of bam of a similar size. Sautex them over a slow fire ; but do not let the fillets of fowl stand too long on the fire. Let the ham be well done, of a fine colour ; glaze it of a red colour. Dish, en miroton with an essence that you have worked in the glaze of the fowls and ham. Never forget that this sauce always re- quires a little salt and the juice of a lemon. NO 29.-Blanquette of Fowl marbrée. This dish although it has no savour, is served at grand dinners. Take off the breasts of three fleshy fowls, wrap them well up in bacon and paper, then roast them; do not let them be too much done. You next lay them aside to cool. You then pull off the flesh which you cut the size of an half-a-crown piece, the same as some slices of tongue à l'écarlate; you then put in the dish that is to be sent up a miroton of tongue and of fowl, that is a slice of each alternately, and so in a spiral line. Take care to keep your dish, quite hot. The moment you are going to send up, add to it a sauce à blanquette, or à P Allemande. (See Sauces.) 02. 196 · N: 30.-Wings of Fowl à la Dauphin. If you have a very large dinner to send up, take six fillets off from the same side, which makes no difference with regard to the expence; and besides this dish looks better when the wings are all of the same side ; prepare your fillets well, lard them with fine bacon, and then put them in a well buttered stew-pan, in order to give them a good shape; when they have got a certain degree of firmness, you lay them over slices of bacon, with a little salt, and a good fire over them, in order that the bacon may be seized : your wings will be done in ten minutes; glaze them and send up with whatever sauce you think proper. Endives à la créme, la svubise, la purée, de céleri, la purée de cardes, are however preferable to all others. NO 31.—Pudding, or Boudin à la Reine. This dish is made out of cold fowls. You take the breast and fleshy parts of the wings of several fowls which you cut into small dice, all of an equal size. You next throw those dice into a reduction of velouté, and season them well; you next put them in a dish à la glace, that they may cool. When your apparatus is quite cold, you cut them in two equal parts. which you make into boudins, of the size of the 197 dish: you roll them into crumbs of bread; yog then dip them into an omelette and roll them again into bread. You must take care that the extremities are well covered with the crumbs, otherwise they would break in the frying-pan. When they are fried to a good colour, drain them, wipe off the grease with a clean towel, and serve with a thin velouté. . . N. 32.-Croquettes of Fowl au Velouté. THESE are prepared in the same manner as the Boudins à la Reine, but you must keep them rather thick to prevent their shrinking whilst frying. A little fried parsley is to be put in the middle of the dish. There are several manners of rolling them, as in the shape of a cork, of a ball, of a pear; the tail whereof is made out of a carrot, or some other substance, which I do not approve of; that which looks the best is en bouchon. You must press pretty hard on the extremities, that they may stand erect on the dish. To place them in a circular form, with fried parsley in the centre, this man- ner has a pretty effect, though it be very plain. Those that are in the shape of a pear are called à la Dubaril. There are also croquettes of sweetbreads, of palates of beef, of cock's 03 198 combs : but they are all much alike, as will be shewn hereafier. N° 33.-Hachi, or minced Fowl à la Polonoise. If you have any remnants of fowl, you mince them, and put the minced meat in a good bé- chamelle, without suffering it to boil. At one time you may put the whole in a vol au vent, another time in patties en timballe ; another time again in a bordure with poached eggs over the minced meat. By this means you procure a variety of dishes : you may likewise send up in croustades, but these croustades bear the ap- pearance of a second course. N. 34.- Legs of Fowl en Caneton. Duckling- like. AFTER having prepared the fillets of your fowl, you must contrive to turn the legs to advantage: pull the bones off from the white fesh entirely; but take care not to destroy the knee, which must remain fixed in its place. You must cut the bone inwards. When you have boned the thighs, you stuff them mo- derately with a farce à quenelles ; you next sew them up with a little thread; you also tie the necks of your canetons, that they may not lose 199 their shape: put them between slices of bacon, and let them braize like all other braize. You may send them up with different sauces as either l'Italienne, la Hollandoise verte, or to- mates, &c. &c. :- NO 35.---Legs of Fowl en Balotine. Bone the legs of your fowl; cut the knee entirely off and the leg just above the joint; you then roll your legs, and thrust the claws into the hole of the leg bone: you tie them up guite round, and put them between two pla- fonds with a pretty heavy weight over them, to give them a nice shape. When they are become firm, you mark thein between layers of bacon, and braize them in the common way: when they are done drain and glaze them ; send up with any sauce you may fancy. La tomate, l'Italienne, la poivrade will answer the purpose very well. . . ansi.. NO 36.-Legs of Fowl à la Orlie. : Bone the legs of several fowls, and set them to be marinated. raw in an earthen-pan, with the juice of a lemon, a little parsley, thyme, bay- leaves, salt and pepper, &c. &c. When mari. nated for three hours you drain them : then beat the white of an egg, mix a little flour with 04 200 erumbs of bread, and dip the legs first into the white of the egg, and then into the four and crumbs ; you next fry them, but mind your dripping must not be too hot, for if it were so the legs would get a colouring before they were done enough through. Serve up with la paio vrade, or tomate sauce. N? 37.-Legs of Fowl à la Dreur. · Bong the legs, fill up the vacuity with a farce crue ; give the legs' a round shape, then lard the upper part with small slips of ham, mark them between layers of bacon, and braize them as above. When they are done glaze them, and send them up with whatever sauce you think proper. It is to be observed, how- ever, that a glazed dish requires a white sauce that the glazing may appear to greater advantage. These legs are to be put in a sauté pan on which you have spread layers of bacon. You also put the same over the legs, and cover the whole with the lid of a stew-pan, and over this put a heavy weight to give the legs a good shape. When they are become sufficiently firm over a slow fire, you take them out and mark them the same as another braize. 201 CHAP. IX. ENTRÉES OF FAT CHICKENS. NO 1.- Chickens à l'Ivoire. Take two chickens of the same size and equally white ; pick them well and singe them ; you then thrust your fingers inside of the chickens to pull out the breast bone. Having mixed a little butter with the juice of a lemon, some salt and pepper, you introduce an equal proportion of this mixture into the body of each chicken, and bind them up in a good shape. You then put them in an oval stew-pan, sura rounded with layers of bacon: you next cut the juicy part of a lemon, and cover the breasts of your chickens with thin slices of lemon and with bacon. Pour some poële over them. Your chickens will be done in half an hour's time, and retain their white colour. Drain them, take off the packthread, and send theus up with tho Welouté. 202 NO 2.-Chickens à la Villeroi ARE dressed in the same manner as those above. The sauce however is to be an aspic lié. (See Aspic Sauce.) No 3.-- Chickens à la Montmorenci. Take two chickens of the same size and eqnally white, hind them up as above, you next have some boiling water wherein you dip the breasts of the chickens only to make the flesh become firm. You then lard them the same as a fricandeau, and put them in an oval stew-pan, surrounded with bacon, though there is not to be any over them. A large fire is required to seize the bacon.; which having got a.good colour- ing, you remove the fire from over them, and let your chickens boil gently for half an hour: then drain and glaze them nicely, and serve up with a ragoût à la financière. : : ; NO 4.- Chickens à la Condé ; ARE to be dressed as above, but it is useless to dip them into boiling water : you then slit them equally with a penknife, and introduce between the slits thin slices of truffles and of tongue à l'écarlate; you then stew your chickens as mentioned above, and serve up with the ragout à l'Allemande. 203 ... N° 5.-Chickens à la Turque.. a Take two white chickens of the same size, empty them and dress them up as above. You : then have some rice which being well cleansed and blanched, you boil it 'in some consommé, When sufficiently swelled and very thick, you season it well, and take one half of it which you introduce inside of your chickens, stuff them as full as you possibly can, with the rump turned inside to prevent the rice from bursting out: then spit your chickens, wrap them up in layers of bacon and paper, and they will be done in three-quarters of an hour. When done you lay them on the rice that you have left, and into which you pour four spoonfuls of béchamelle, and one spoonful of thick cream, Season the whole well. NO 6.- Chickens aux Pâtes d'Italie. Take two fat pullets as above, dress them in the like inanner, but your Italian paste must be in a state of readiness, and made very thick, as it has less substance than rice: then stuff your chickens with part of the paste, and mix the remainder with some béchamelle as above.. NO 7.–Fat Pullets aur Nouilles. - Take a couple of fat pullets, which you dress 204 and prepare as indicated in NO 1, and stew them in the same manner. The nouilles are made as follows. Take the yolks of four eggs, five spoon- fuls of flour, a lump of butter of the size of an egg, and a little salt; make a paste which you moisten with a little water; yet let it be kept thick; work it hard with your hand and spread it on the pastry-table with the rolling-pin, mind you powder a large quantity of four when you cut into dice to prevent their sticking to the pan : then blanch it in some water with a little salt. When these small dice are blanched, drain them, put them in cold water, and stew them in con- sommé; when your paste is done, drain and toss it in a small quantity of Allemande, or of velouté. These sauces you may also pour over your chickens. Your paste may be cut into dif- ferent shapes, in squares, lozenges, &c. &c. Emincés, or blanquettes agree very well with the nouilles. N. 8.- Chicken à la Tartare. Take two very young chickens, singe and dress them en poule, by which is meant, that you makea hole above the joint of the leg, and thrust the claws into those holes : you then split them in two, break the bones of the legs, and bone the backs and breasts, leaving as few 205 bones as you possibly can ; you then mould the chickens into a round shape ; season them with salt and pepper; take a brush which you dip into yolks of eggs, and brush the chickens all over ; next dip them into crumbs of bread, have some melted butter ready, dip them into that butter and next into crumbs of bread again and roll them equally ; lay them on something flat, to give them a good shape ; half an hour before you send them up broil them on a clear fire ; serve up with gravy, or an Italienne. NO 9.- Fat Pullets à la Givry.. . Dress two young pullets and stew thern as indicated, NO 1. The givry is made in the following manner. You take some small white onions, which you cut into rings ; you select those of a same size which you stew in a small quantity of consommé; take care your onions are not too much done, for they would break. You then spread these rings at an equal distance over the breasts of your chickens. You have a verd de persil (see Sauces) ready, and put a little in the centre of your rings ; the remainder you mix with some sauce tournée well reduced, and well seasoned; then take a little lemon juice, and pour. your sauce under the chickens, 206 NO 10.-Chickens à la Barbarie aur Truffes.": Dress two young chickens as in N'1. Cut small pieces of truffles in the shape of a nail, make a few holes in the breasts of your chickens, and fill those holes up equally with the prepared truffles. You then cover the chickens with layers of bacon, and stew them with a poele as in. N?), and serve up with an Italienne aux truffes. . . . . . . NO 11.- Chickens à la Cardinal. Take a couple of fat chickens, but mind the skin be not injured, and pick them with the utmost care. Have some beurre d'écrevisse ready; introduce the handle of a little knife between the skin and the flesh; and thus sepa- rate the skin without tearing it; you next intro- duce the beurre d'écrevisse between the skin and the flesh very even ; then truss your chickens in the common way, and poële them as usual, but do not make them too much done, let them stew gently and pour under them a sauce aux tomates. · NO 12.- Fillets of fat Pullets à la Royale. If you have a large dinner to serve, you take the fillets of four chickens, and thus procure eight large fillets, and a similar number of filets mignons, Aatten them with the handle of a knife 207 that has been dipt into cold water, to prevent the knife breaking the fillets or sticking. You then use the knife to pull off the upper skin which is very tough, you take the nerves from the filets mignons, put them in a sauté pan, after having dipt them in butter, you then powder them over with salt only, pepper being intended merely for high seasoned dishes, but loathsome to a dainty palate. When you are going to serve them, sautez them bastily, drain the butter, pour over them two or three spoon- fuls of-béchamelle, one spoonful of thick cream, which you keep stirring for a while ; then send up dressed en miroton, with the ragout à la royale in the centre, after having dished the fillets in a circle. · NO 13.-Cutlets of Chicken à l'Epigramme. : Take the fillets of five pullets and parex them well. You then take the small bone of the pinion, scrape it well and stick dexterously into the point of the billets; which season with salt and pepper ; dip them into the yolks of eggs, then into bread, next into some melted butter, crumbs of bread again ; let them be covered entirely. Broil thein exactly at dinner time. Then put your filets mignons en escalopes in a sauce à blanquette, and send up. Another 208 time you may sautez your filets mignons entire, and dish them between the cutlets, with a thin Allemande. (See Sauces.) N? 14.–Fillets of Chicken à la Maréchale. This is exactly the same dish as that known in England by the denomination of sauté aro supréme. N: 15.–Fillets of fat Pullets sautés à la Lucullus. Take the fillets of four fat pullets, take off the filets mignons, and from these pull off the nerves : Alatten them with the back of a knife, and mark them into clarified butter. The larger fillets are to be garnished with truffles, cut into small round slices, as in the contis. You next make three round slits in each fillet, and introduce the sliced truffles within each slit, though not so far as to reach the extremity of the fillets, which would not then look so well. When your fillets have been garnished, (décorés) mark them into clarified butter, and sautez them in the common way; mind they are only vert cuits, by which is meant that they are to retain some- what of the reddish hue; but as they are to be kept hot with the sauce, they by degrees will 209 soon be thoroughly done, and are always tender, (See Sauce à la Lucullus.) N. B.-For the sauce: strip the legs and loins . of your chickens, wash the inside of the lungs clean, then mark the remainder in a small marmite with a little salt, shalots and the parures of your truffles, and let it sweat in a spoonful or two of consommé. When the meat is done through, pour over it some boiling hot consommé, and let it boil for about an hour, then lay the whole on a cloth, or in a double silk sieve to drain; reduce the consommé du glace, when it may serve you for different pur. poses. When you have sauté your fillets, drain the butter; take four spoonfuls of béchamelle, a little of your glace de volaille, a spoonful of thick cream, keep stirring the fillets in the sauce, and dish them alternately, a large fillet and a filet mignon. Pour the sauce over the parts thắt have no truffles over them, and that are not glazed. N: 16.— Escalones de Poulets aux Truffes. SEE Escalopes de Poulardes, N. 25. You must always reduce to a glaze, a little consommé, into which you have put the parures of your truffles. When reduced drain it through a sieve, that the parures may not injure your sauce. 210 Then add a small quantity of your glaze to the sauce of the sauté and a little cream. N? 17.-Scollops of fat Pullets à la Conti aux Truffes. The same as above, with the difference only that you preserve the filets mignons, which you garnish with truffles, and mark them in a sauté pan in order to be enabled to give them the shape either of garlands, crescents, &c. &c. Butter the sauté pan, and have ready some filets mignons, larded with bacon ; divide the thickest part of the billets, preserve the right side point, turn over the two parts that you have divided that you may give them the shape of a dart or arrow. Another time you may frame them in the shape of an S, and dish them round your escalopes, which are dressed en buisson, in the shape of an obelisk. : N. 18.—Escalopes of Chicken à l’Essence de Concombres. ScoLlop the fillets of four fat pullets; mark them in a sauté pan with some clarified butter, and a little salt over them : cover them with a round piece of paper till dinner time. The sauce is to be made in the following manner. Take eight very green cucumbers, cut off the extremi- 211 ties; to which you apply the tip of your tongue to taste them: if they should taste bitter do not use them., Slice those only that are good about thesize of an lialf-crown piece; take off all the green seed: and then put these parures with a few minced cucumbers, and let them sweat in a little butter till they are melted : marinate the large slices with a little salt and vinegar, then lay those slices on a clean towel to drain, and put them in a stew-pan with four spoonfuls of sauce tournée, a small lump of sugar, a little salt, and let them stew gently. When they are done, drain them: you then mix the whole of that sauce with the parures, and let the whole boil gently in order to extract all the butter : when there is none left, you reduce your cucumbers till they become thick, you then mix three or four spoonfuls of béchamelle ; and strain your cucumbers through a tammy like a purée, and warm your sauce au bain marie. When dinner time is come put in your scollops after having sauté them, in the sauce which must always be kept very thick. The moment you are going to send up drain your cucumbers in a hair sieve, and mix a little thick cream with your scollops ; taste whether they have a fine relish, and send up either with or without contis according as you most approve of. P 2 212 N! 19.-Wings of Chicken à la Maréchale. SEE wings of fowl à la St. Laurent, N. 21. N. 20.—Blanquette of Chicken à la Turque. Cut slices of chickens in the shape of half- crown pieces : you have ready some rice which has swelled in rich consommé; let the rice be thick, make it richer with a few spoonfuls of velouté; dish it en buisson ; you put the slices of chicken en miroton up to the top of the buis- son, keep the whole hot, and when ready to send up, mask with a sauce ù blanquette, or a béchamelle. OBSERVATION. To the above I prefer the fol- lowing N! 21.- Sauté of Fillets of fat Pullets à la Turque. TAKE the fillets of four fat pullets, then tear off the second skin and the nerves of the filet's mignons: stick two together, you then will have twelve fillets : you mark the whole in a sauté pan, with some clarified butter, and a little salt (never put any pepper in white made dishes) and cover them with paper. At dinner time you have some rice ready that has swelled in rich ronsommé; the rice must be kept thick : mix two spoonfuls of béchamelle with your rice, 213 likewise a small lump of very fresh butter. This rice is dressed en buisson in the centre of the sauté, which is made in the same manner as the sauté au supréme. N: 22.–Sauté of Fillets of fat Pullets, sautés au Suprême. See above NO 22. Fillets of fowl au suprême, NO 23.-Wings of fat Pullets à la Dauphine. See above, N. 30. Wings of fowlà la Dau. phine. NO 24.-Boudins of Fillets of Chicken à la . Reine. See above, NO 31. NO 25.--Boudins of Chicken à la Richelieu. Look into the chapter of Farces, for the man- ner of making quenelles. The boudins à la Richelieu, are the same thing as a farce à que- nelles, made of either veal, or fowl, rabbits, whitings, carp, &c. Sweat some white onions that are cut into small dice, when well done you drain them in a hair sieve, in order that there remains not the least particle of butter; you work your farce with a wooden spoon before you put the onions in, to prevent their melting, P3 214 OV for it is requisite they should remain entire in the making of Boudins à la Richelieu. Next let your farce stand to cool. When it is quite cold, you roll it in the shape of a pudding of the length of your dish, and poach it in the follow- ing manner. After having rolled your puddings, you rub with butter a stew-pan large enough for the puddings to be at ease ; you lay them over the butter, and pour some boiling water with a little salt into the stew-pan, and let them boil gently, till you see they are swelled pro- perly: you then drain them and let them cool, When cold you mould them of an equal size, then dip them into yolks of eggs well beaten, with a little salt; and then slightly into crumbs of bread, next into eggs again, and once more slightly into crumbs of bread: you then fry them on a clear fire; they only want to get a fine colour: drain them with a clean towel, dish them, and pour over an Italienne. Some people make use of the sauce d'attelets (sec Sauces), this is to be poured hot over the puddings, and then to be made cold. You then pour some over each square dipt into crumbs of bread. Take care that you make them into regular squares ; you then prepare an Angloise, by which is meant yolks of eggs mixed with melted butter. Your puddings are to be dirt 215 only once into this preparation. You give them a good colour, either by leaving them for a while in an oven, or by using the four de cumpagne. - The first manner however gives less trouble, and answers the same purpose. N? 26.—Boudins, or Puddings à la Sefton. Make some quenelles of fowl, in which you introduce small mushrooms, cut in the shape of dice, sweat them well. When they are well done, you put half of thein in a hair sieve to drairi, and mix them with the farce in the same manner as the boudins à la Richelieu; you then poach them, and dip them into crumbs of bread, and fry them as the above-mentioned. You moisten the remnant of your mushrooms with two spoonfuls of fowl consommé, four spoonfuls of sauce tournée, and let the whole boil on the corner of the stove to get the butter out. When there is no more grease left in the sauce you give it a good seasoning, and thicken it with the yolks of three eggs and a little cream, and serve without masking. Sometimes I send my boudins up without their having been dipt into eggs and crumbs of bread, but then I keep my sauce a little thicker, to mask my boudins and put over each one these fillets larded and P 4 216 glazed, of a light colour and put under it; the sauce little thinner, N27.-Quenelles of Chicken au Consommé . clair. The quenelles are to be rolled much about the size of a thick cork, and are in a stew-pan rubbed with butter, as indicated above. You must have ready some fowl consommé very clear yet rich : drain the quenelles on a clear cloth, and then put them in a silver stew-pan ; and pour your consommé gently over them that they may not break, and that the consommé may remain clear. .. OBSERVATION.- This dish is seldom called for in England. The other quenelles are made in the like manner, but only of various sizes. - There are quenelles called à la cuillière, which are prepared in the following manner. Take two spoons, one of which is always to be kept in hot water; fill the other with some farce, which you shape with a knife : when your que- nelle is quite round, with the other spoon you take it out, and put it over some butter in a stew-pan, and so on with the rest. This same manner of preparing quenelles is also practised in dressing entrées of fish. The farce à que- nelles not only makes good entrées, but is in- dispensably necessary in the making of la Chama 217 bord, la financière, le ragodt à l'Allemande, la Godard, la Toulouse, &c. &c. N? 28.— Rissolles of Fowls. Rissolles were formerly made with a farce fine, either of fowl, or rabbit, (see Farces) when over a spread feuilletage you laid, at equal distances, balls of your farce. You then use the paste-brush over the paste, round the farce, and fold the paste, which you press upon alt round, in order to make the borders stick close together. You then run a videlle goudronnée round the paste, so as to cut your rissolles in the shape of a crescent. When you have about two dozen, you fry them, and send them up with fried parsley in the middle. Now a days the rissolles are commonly made in the following man- ner. Have some minced fowl, that is, the white fleshy part, which you put in a velouté reduced give it a good seasoning, then let it cool. When cold you divide it'into small balls, and wrap them up in paste, fry them, and serve up garnished with fried parsley. NO 29.-- Croquettes of Chickens au Velouté. Take the flesh of roast chickens, which you cut into small dice of an equal size; put these in a béchamelle reduced, then let them cool; now you mould them of the shape of a cork ; next n. 218 dip them into an omelette and next into crumbs of bread; then fry. them till of a light brown, and serve up with some fried parsley of a good green colour. This requiring a great quantity of white flesh of chickens, is termed most natu- rally an entrée de desserte, N? 30.– Fricassée of Chickens ay naturel. Take a couple of fat chickens, empty and singe them till the flesh gets firm, in order that they may cut better, and that the skin be not injured: some persons neglect this ceremony, but the flesh of such fowls or chickens as are intended for a fricassée, or a marinade crue, must be made fim. Now carve your chickens, as neat as possible, and each will supply you with ten pieces. Take out the lungs and spungy substance, that is within the loins, and wash the members in luke warm water; blanch them, you then put them into boiling water that the flesh may bu made firm, and that you may give the members a good shape, after they have been cooled, then put a lump of fresh butter about the size of an egg in a stew-pan, with half a pint of mushrooms, a bunch of parsley and of small onions, put in your chickens, and the stew-pan over the fire with a little salt. When your members have been fried lightly, dust a little four over them and moisten with the liquor they 219 were blanched in. Let them boil for about three-quarters of an hour : skim off all the but- ter and scum, then put your members in another stew-pan, you reduce your liquor, and drain it through a tammy over the chickens. This stew- pan is to be put in a bain marie till dinner time; then thicken your fricassée : it is to be observed that if the fricassée does not boil, the thicken- ing will not be done enough. Some people add a little lemon juice, but others do not use any, and they are right, for lemon is admissible only in fricassées of a high relish. N31.- Fricassée of Chickens à la Paysanne. Tuis fricassée is to be prepared as that above, only boil four onions in the fricassée, which how- ever are to be taken out again. Take about three dozen of small white onions of an equal size, peel without injuring them, blanch them in water first, next in a little consommé with a little sugar and some salt; they must simmer only. When done leave them in the liquor. When it is dinner time you have chopped some parsley, which you put into the sauce after having thick- ened it. You toss the fricassée gently, in order that all the members may equally be covered with parsley, and dish the fricassée : you then put your onions on a cloth to drain that they may not thin the sauce, and put them over the mcat, and the 220 sauce over. Lemon in this fricassée is requisite, and you must give it more seasoning than to that above ; you must also add a little ground pepper to it. Same manner N° 32.- Fricassée à la Chevalière. This is prepared in the same manner as that above, N. 30, with this only difference, that you lard the fillets; which is a method that I do not approve of. You must cut off the four wings, and the file's mignons of each ; lard them but keep the wings entire, and make the fricassée as usual; when it is dished with the sauce, lay the four filets mignons on each corner of the dish, with sweethreads of lamb, by this means the members are all left entire except the breast. N: 33.-Fricassée of Chickens à la St. Lambert, Make a bouillon de racines, (see Sauces) mark your fricassée as above, moisten with your bouillon de racines, then proceed as usual. This fricassée instead of being white is rather of a brown colour. N. 34.— Fricassée of Chickens à la Dauphine. If this be made on purpose for the day, the sauce must be thickened, you let it cool, next pour the sauce over each member, dip these into crumbs of bread, equalize your pieces, and dip 221 them into an omelette, and next into crumbs of bread a second time. Fry them till of a light brown, and serve under a velouté. This dish is also an entrée of desserte. When a fricassée of chickens has been taken down untouched, you serve it up again the next day according to this manner. N: 35.—Marinade of Chickens à la St. Flo- rentin. Take two very young fat pullets ; singe them, till they be firm, cut them into pieces as if to make a fricassée; put them into an earthen-pot with a few leaves of parsley, a few slices of onion, a little salt and pepper; then squeeze a lemon over the limbs, which marinate for a couple of hours. This marinade is to be stirred every now and then. At dinner time you drain the chickens, beat the whites of two eggs, dip your pieces first into these, next into flour; cover them all over that they may all equally be made of a good colour, then fry them, but take care the dripping be not too hot, for fear the chickens should be too brown and not done through ; drain them on a clean towel, and serve under them a poivrade, or la sauce aux tomates. N? 36.-Friteau de Poulets gras. This dish is prepared as that above, but is to 222 begarnished with a few fried eggs. Serve up with the sauce aux tomates. N: 37.-Fricassée of Chickens à la Bardout. This is prepared as that N. 30. After having thickened your fricassée, take a few onions cut into dice. Sweat them in a little butter, but take care they do not get brown ; drain them, put them into the sauce, and mask your fris cassée. N: 38.-La Capilotade of Chickens. . This is an entrée de desserte. Take two chickens that have been either roasted or stewed, cut them as for eating, flay them and mark tliem, in a stew-pan like a salmi : now pour a brown Italienne over them, and let them simmer gently over a slow fire, that the sauce may not stick to the pan. You then have thin slices of bread cut into flat pears, that you fry in butter till they be of a light brown ; dish them between the members, as you must glaze the fried bread, and pour the Italienne over the chickens only. N: 39.—Memlers of Chickens au Soleil, or Marinade cuite. This is also an entrée de desserte. The maa rinade cuite is to be prepared in the following manner; put a little butter in a stew-pan, with 223 four shalots, an onion, and a carrot, cut into dice, a little parsley, some few roots ditto, a bay leaf, a little thyme, clove, and some spice! Let the whole lay on the fire till the vegetables be of a light brown; then moisten a little vinegar and water. When the marinade is done enough, season it, give it a high relish, then pour it over the members of the chickens; let the whole boil for a minute or two, and then let it cool till dinner time; then drain the members, dip them into proper paste, and fry them. (See paste for making of fritters and marinade.) Serve under them a brown poivrade. N. 40.-Marinade of Chickens à la Ortie. This is the same as the St. Florentin, N. 35, with the only difference that you mix crumbs of bread with the flour, into which the limbs are to be dipped. N: 41.-Emincé of Chickens à la Polonoise. Take the Aeshy part of roasted chickens, chop it very small, and put the whole in well seasoned béchamelle. Send up in a vol au vent, or a bord de plut, with poached eggs over, and fried bread round the dish. 224 N: 42.-Blanquette of Chickens aux petits Pois. This dish is made out of roast chickens that have already been served up, otherwise it would be very expensive, as it would require five chickens at least to make it, and it would be but a small dish after all. Cut scollops of chickens as large as possible, give them nearly a round shape, but it matters not whether they be of different sizes : put them into into the sauce à blanquette aux petits pois, but not till you have thickened the sauce. NO 43.-Soufflé of Chickens à la Créme. This dish is also made of the remnants of roasted chickens: take off the white flesh, and mince it very small, and pound it in a mortar with a little béchamelle, and a good lump of fresh butter: with this mix the yolks of four eggs. Strain the whole through the tammy, or a hair sieve; then beat the white of five eggs till made in a single body; mix these with the former preparation and put the whole in a dish à souffler, or in a croutade that has been raised like the crust of a páté chaud. It will be done in a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes, ac- cording to the quantity. It is to be observed that if the oven be too hot, the outside of the soufflé will be burnt, although the inside be not .. 225 This must therefore carefully be done enough. attended to . NO 44.-Le Gratin of Fillets of Chickens au Velouté. This is likewise an entrée de desserte; you * mince the flesh of chickens which you put in a velouté well reduced ; then make a bord de plat about an inch thick, and put the minced meat in the middle. Your émincé must be thick, and levelled with a knife; dust it over with crumbs of bread; pour some melted butter over the crumbs, then throw some more crumbs over the minced meat, and pour again some melted butter and crumbs of bread. Then give a colouring with the salamander, but hold this latter at a distance, otherwise it would spoil the colour. Next cut pieces of bread in balls and in the shape of corks, fry them in butter, with which alternate- ly you garnish your émincé all round and serve up quite hot. N. 45.-Galantine of fat Chickens. · Take a nice fleshy chicken, which empty and pick nicely. When picked neat, bone it without injuring the flesh. Take some slits of ham and some truffles, which cut into bits of the same thickness at least, if you cannot make them of 226 the same length; cut the flesh of the chickens into fillets, add a few slices of veal; of those form kind of beds, in such a manner as when they are cut they may be checquered; then close the skin of the chicken, sow up the back, give it a nice shape before you put it in the stew- pan. You must have some calf's foot jelly ready, for the chicken is much sooner done than the calf's foot; then mark the chicken in a stew- pan, and cover it with layers of bacon ; season it with a bunch of parsley and small onions, some thyme, a bay-leaf, a clove, a little spice, a few carrots, a couple of onions, and slices of veal; then mix a little broth and a small quan- tity of the jelly. The chicken must not boil above an hour. Then take it off from the fire, and let it cool in the liquor, that the slices may stick together on account of the jelly, for were this neglected the galantine would break to pieces on being cut. If you send it up hot, you pour over it such sauce as you think proper, but it must be a brown sauce, or sorrel, or onions made brown in an Espagnole : however it is much bettter to serve a galantine cold with jelly: take some of the liquor, beat the white of two or three eggs, which you mix with the cold jelly after having skimmed off the grease, then again put the whole on the fire, and keep stirring till the uce 227 liquor be white; then let it thicken; take the jelly from off the fire, next lay it aside with a cover over it: when quite clear you strain it through a cloth and let it cool, to be used when wanted. Season it with salt and pepper before you put it on the fire, as above-mentioned. NO 46.--Boudins of Chickens à la Ude. Make boudins en quenelle, like those à la Richelieu : dip them into crumbs of bread, and fry them to a light brown : make on the top an oblong square opening, empty the boudins, taking care to preserve however å coat thick enough to admit a salpicon of chickens, truffles, and mushrooms, cut into small dice and thrown into a well seasoned béchamelle ; take six filets mignons as three are wanted for each boudin : give them the shape of the handle of a basket, after having larded them with bacon, or deco- rated them, what is called en conti. Then take a very large carrot, cut it of a size with your puddings, wrap it up in thin layers of bacon, put the filets mignons over the carrot, and dust a little salt over them: then put the whole in an oven ; do not let it be too much done but of a light brown. When ready to send up your dinner pour the salpicon within the pudding a with the sham basket handles at an equal dis- : TE Q 2 228 tance over the puddings : mind the fillets are not to be thrust in too far, that they may really look like basket handles. This dish is intended for a grand dinner, when common dishes are not to make their appearance. NO 47.-Grenade of Fillets of Chicken. You must have a mould ribbed like a melon ; cut very thin layers of bacon ; fill the mould with the said layers : then take fillets or slices of chicken larded with bacon, and others decorated with truffles. Have sweetbreads of lamb already done, one of which put between each rib, and the thickest part of the filets mignons. When you have thus arranged alternately one slice larded and another decorated with truffles, cover the whole of your fillets with a farce fine. (See farce fine.) Put a thick salpicon in the centre and cover it with the farce over, stick it with farce meat, then put the mould in au bain marie in order to poach the whole at a time ; next turn the grenade on a dish à entrées, dry the larded slices by means of using the salamander, and glaze them. When the fillets or slices are of a light brown, you uncover the rest, glaze them slightly and serve them with an Espagnole. 229 NO 48.---Turbans of Fillets of Chickens à la Sultane. Take the filets mignons of chicken, lard them with bacon; have ready a farce à quenelles, rather thick, which you keep to the ice, that it may acquire substance, and thereby be more easily worked; cut a large piece of bread, which you cover also with thin slices of bacon, pour the bread in the middle of your entrée dish, then lay the farce à quenelles all round, of the same height with the filets mignons ; stick the fillets into the farce à quenelles; they are not to be stuck perpendicularly, but at equal distances: leave a separation between each fillet to make room for cock's-kidneys of an equal size. These are to be put in only when you are going to send up: cover your dish with an earthen pot, or a lid that closes hermetically. The turban is to be put into the oven, and when done glaze the fillets by means of the salamander. Prac- tice small holes for the admission of the cock's. kidneys, which inust be very white, and bear a resemblance to as many pearls. If you have nothing to cover the dish, use layers of bacon, but a plain cover is still preferable, as it yields no grease, and that the quenelles are better and more easily poached. VE 3 230 Take out the large aforesaid piece of bread; drain the grease by means of crumbs of bread ; put in the centre of the dish, à blanquettte of chickens. (See Blanquette.) When in the sea- son of truffles, you garnish alternately with a perle or kidney, and a ball made out of a truffle ; next introduce escalopes aux truffes in the middle. 231 231 CHAP. X. ENTRÉES OF PARTRIDGES, YOUNG AND OLD. N: 1.-A whole Partridge à l' Espagnole. It is necessary to observe, that except for perdreaux aux choux, or perdreaux à la purée de lentilles, young partridges are required: these in general have yellowish claws, yet it may happen that although they be still tender, the claws and legs may be of a grey or even of a bluish colour. Look at the extremity of the wing, if it be sharp pointed and whitish, the bird is still tender, but if the above marks are not to be seen, the bird is invariably old, and consequently unfit to be used, except as above- mentioned, or for sauces, consommés, and cold patties. The size of the dish must determine the num- ber of birds you are to dress ; in general three Q4 232 are wanted, you empty them as usual, and take care not to injure the skin: pick them well, mix a little butter, salt, and lemon-juice: put an equal proportion inside of each bird; cut off the nerve that is under the joint of the legs, truss the legs up towards the breast: you then sew up the birds in the following manner. You first prick the aiguille à brider (the needle) through the stump of the right wing, then through the thick joint of the leg, and next across the body; then again through the other stump ; let the packthread be very tight, and fasten the knot, Now from the back run the needle through the side beneath the leg, then above the pinion below the breast, so as to perforate the breast bone: let the needle come out from the part parallel to that where first it was introduced, and then from through the side to the back, and fasten the packthread.' Give a good shape to the birds; which constitutes a true knowledge of the art of cookery. A man cannot be really a thorough good cook unless he be well acquainted with every branch of the art. How to truss poultry or game is not to be easily explained in a book : you may as well try to have drawing learnt without a master, or patterns. Seasoning, and marking may be elucidated, but practice alone can make a man perfect. Such however 233 as have been initiated may derive great advan- tage from such a work as this. Mark the par- tridges between layers of bacon, the same as legs of fowl, and pour a poële over them: if you happen to have no poële ready, use some of the pot-top, with a little salt, parsley, and onions, well seasoned. They will be done in the course of twenty minutes, but let it be on a slow fire ; drain and put them in the dish and pour an Es- pagnole over them, wherein you introduce a little glace de perdreaux. (See Sauces.) N? 2.-Young Partridges à la Montmorenci. Take some young partridges which empty, and truss as in No 1, dip the breasts into boiling water; when made firm, dip them immediately into cold water : next lard them with thin slits of bacon; mark them in a stelv-pan with slices of fat bacon all around only, pour a little poële or any other liquid to immerse about one half of the birds. Have a brisk fire over them to seize the bacon ; when they have been stewed for twenty minutes, you glaze them, and probe them near the back ; if no blood issues it is a sign that they are done enough. Drain them, glaze them a second time, and send them up with a ragoût à la financière. 234 • NO 3.-Young Partridges à lu Barbarie. Truss the birds as in Nº 1, instead of butter stuff them with chopped truffles and rasped bacon, seasoned with salt, pepper, and all- spice : then cut small pieces of truffles ; in the shape of nails; with a penknife make holes in the breasts of the birds, widen the holes with a skewer and fill them with the truffles, let them be nailed in very regular. Then mark them as in N: 1. They are to be stewed also in the same manner. Serve them with an Italienne aux truffes. (See Sauces.) N.B. Take care to drain them well, otherwise the grease would spoil both the taste and look of the sauce, N? 4.-Young Partridges à la Dreux. This is nearly the same as the foregoing dish, only instead of using truffles you lard with small pieces of ham : use the pen-knife, as larding pins would spoil the look of the birds, &c. that are served entire. Mark and stew as above and serve up with the essence de gibier. (See Sauces.) NO 5.-Young Partridges à la Crapandine. Cut off the claws after having emptied and picked the birds; make a hole below the joint 235 of the leg; truss the leg inside of the body ; singe the birds till the flesh gets firm ; pinch the breast with your left hand, scollop the breasts without quite reaching the skin, turn the Aesh over on the table, beat the bird flat, dust it with a little salt and pepper ; then dip it twice into melted butter and crumbs of bread, then broil it, and send it up with an Italienne. NO 6.- Young Partridges à la Givry. In this case you add a decoration to the birds, in the following manner, truss and stew them as in N: 1. At dinner time take rings of white onions, let them be stewed white in a little consommé, then take a cutter of the same size as the inside of the rings of the onions, cut round pieces of truffles that have been braized with the birds ; mind the truffles must be of a very black colour: (the parures are to be chopped and mixed with the Italienne:) the round pieces of truffles are to be put over the breasts of the birds, three on each side, and the rings of onions round the truffles, and one over the pouch. If the truffles do not stick well use a little glace to make them stick, as they are liable to fall off. Do not mask with the sauce, which must be poured into the bottom of the dish; the sauce must be an Italienne au truffe, mix with a little glace of game. 236 NO 7.—Compotte of young Partridges à blanc. Take four young partridges, cut off the claws, and truss them en poule, by which is meant with the legs inwards; next singe them. Then take a few pieces of bacon from the breast, which cut into small corks, and boil in water for half an hour. You next fry them white, and take them off from the fire as soon as they are made firm. Now fry your partridges, white also, in butter and the fat of your bacon. When they are quite firm, take them out of the stew-pan. You then throw a spoonful of flour into the butter, and fry your flour white. Next pour in a little broth till the sauce be thin enough to be skimmed, (for it is to be observed that if a sauce be too thick it can never be skimmed) then put in some parures of mushrooms, a bunch of parsley and green onions, and season with a little thyme, bay-leaves, a clove, a little salt and a small lump of sugar. Stew the birds in this sauce, the same as a fricassée of chickens ; if onions be agreeable put a few small ones to give a relish. When the compotte is done, skim all the grease, drain the partridges in a clean stew-pan; drain all the bacon, which you throw into the stew-pan with the partridges; reduce the sauce after it has been skimmed; drain it through a tammy over the birds, put 237 the stew-pan au bain marie : now take some small white onions of an equal size, which have been boiling in a little consommé with a lump of sugar; you likewise have some mushrooms, fried white in butter ; when the onions and mush- rooms are ready, set the compotte boiling ; thicken the sauce with the yolks of four eggs beat with a little cream and lemon-juice; next put in small onions, mushrooms, and bacon, likewise some quenelles if you think proper, and garnish your entrée. If the dish be a large size put a crouton en crête, glazed between each bird, and send up with a good seasoning. N! 8.- Compotte of young Partridges à brun. Do exactly the same thing as in No 7, instead of moistening with consommé, use blond de veau. (See Sauces.) Sweat the onions in a little butter till they be of a fine brown, then let them boil in a little blond de veau, they inay be of an equal size, give them a good colour. Add truffles and mushrooms, in case you have any. N: 9:— Partridges aux Choux dressés. Take a couple of old partridges, empty and truss them en poule, the legs inward; simmer them on the fire till they get firm. Blanch eight cabbages, that you have cut by halves ; 16 238 ZAT when the cabbages are blanched, put them into cold water to cool, cut off the tops of the middle, squeeze them so as to leave no water; you have also blanched about a pound and a half of breast of bacon with the cabbage; put this bacon into a small braizing-pan and the birds close to the bacon. Next put in the cab- bage, a few carrots tournées, two or three onions, a bunch of parsley seasoned with salt and a small quantity of all-spice, bay-leaves, and thyme; cover the whole with a few layers of bacon, then with a sheet of buttered paper; then moisten with a braize, if you have any, if • not, take some of the pot-top, but in the latter case you must season a little more. Set the contents of the braizing-pan boiling, and this being accomplished, put it over a slow fire for three hours and a half. Now take out the layers of bacon, the onions, and the carrots. Place a large sieve over a dish of the same magnitude, turn the birds into the sieve, take a clean towel, mould the cabbage into a large roller, 'squeeze them so as to have no grease left, then take a plain mould, garnish them with very thin layers of bacon, make a kind of Power, in the middle of the mould, with the carrots, put a border of smal glazed onions all round the top ; next take some of the cabbage with a ladle, with 239 which fill the mould. At the same time let the birds be covered all over with the cabbage equally on all sides. Make a rosasse of carrots on each face of the mould, which fill to the brim. Then put it in the oven, At dinner time turn the mould into a dish, let the birds, &c. lay for a moment, drain all the broth, and send up with a nice Espagnole. NO 10.-Sauté of Fillets of young Partridges au fumet. * Take four young partridges, rather stale, that they may have more flavour, Aay them, take up the fillets, detach the filets mignons froin the upper fillets, cut out the nerve of the filets mignons, and flatten the fillets with the handle of your knife dipped in cold water, the blade where- of is to be dipped in the same, pass it gently over the fillets leaning heavy on the table, in order to take off the second skin of the fillets only: trim the fillets nicely, mark them with clarified butter in a sauté pan; lay the filets mignons over the others, dust a little salt, and cover the whole with a round piece of paper till dinner time, then you sautez the fillets over a a very brisk and equal fire. With the remnants of the birds, mark a few thin slices of real and ham in a small stow.pan, lay the aforesaid 240 remnants of the birds over the veal, moisten the whole with a few spoonful of consommé. Let the whole sweat on a slow fire, and when your meat is sweated thoroughly, moisten with boil- ing consommé, to which add a few mushrooms, if you have any, together with a bunch of parsley and green onions. Let the whole stew for an hour and a half; drain your fumet through a silk sieve, and reduce it to glaze, to use it when required. When the fillets have been sautés verd cuits, drain the butter; then take four or five spoonfuls of velouté, some of the above glace de gibier, and keep stirring without allowing them to boil. Now taste whether they are seasoned enough : pour a little thick cream to whiten the sauce and make it more mellow : have as many slices of bread cut in the shape of your fillets, fried in butter, as you have large fillets, glaze the fried bread lightly, then dish the sauté in the following manner: a crouton and next a large fillet with the thick end upwards, then a filet mignon with the point upwards, then y again a crouton, &c. &c. as above. Mask the fillets only, not the croutons, and send up to table, 2411 NO 11.--Cutlets of young Partridges en Epi- gramme aux Truffes. Take five young partridges, flay them as above, take off first the fillets, next the filets mignons ; tear the second skin off from the fillets, point the smallest bone of the pinion, and stick it into the point of the fillet. Then season with salt and pepper; rub the fillets over with a brush that has been dipped into the yolk of an egg ; then into crumbs of bread, next into melted butter; and into crumbs of bread again ; just before dinner time you broil them. Sautez the filets mignons, of which you make a blan- quette, wherein you mix some glace de gibier. Put the blanquette in the middle of the dish, and the broiled fillets all round. Mask the fillets with some blond de veau made pretty rich, and some glace de gibier. N. 12.–Sauté of Fillets of young Partridges à la Sefton. Take five young partridges, as tender as possible, and of an equal size, flay them, take up the fillets, and tear off the second skin. Next slit the fillets at three equal distances: have ready some truffles that are chamfered and cut out in the shape of a cork; these you flatten on one side in order that when you slice the truffles, 242 they may appear somewhat more than semi- circular ; take about eight of these slices of truffles, lay them equally over one another and introduce some into each of the slits you have made, and next into the other two parts: take care not to make the slits too deep, do the same with regard to every one of the ten fillets. The filets mignons are only to be marked in clarified butter ; do not forget pulling off the nerve, to prevent the fillets taking a bad shape whilst sautering. Mark the fillets in a sauté pan with butter and round slices of truffles of an equal size, and sautez the fillets when dinner time is at hand. With regard to the sauce (see Sauces à la lucullus); next drain the butter, put the round trumes in one half on the sauce, and keep the other half to lay over the fillets. Make a kind of a coronet with the large fillets, and dish the filets mignons in the middle, standing nearly upright, by which is meant that you are to lean upon each intermediate one. This entrée has a fine appearance when dished properly. N. 13.-Croquettes of young Partridges. The same process as in N. 29. (Croquettes of Chickens.) Only add a little glace de gibier to the béchamelle. Let the croquettes cool, and 243 dip them into yolks of egg and crumbs of bread as in No 29, aforesaid. NO 14.--Soufflé of young Partridges. Take the flesh of roasted partridges, which chop and pound in a mortar, with a few spoon- fuls of velouté, and a lump of butter: season the whole well. Mix with your purée the yolks of four or five eggs, and strain the whole through a sieve. Then put it in a bason. Beat well the whites of six eggs, which you mix lightly with the purée. Now let the whole be put in a plat à soufflé, and baked in the oven for twenty minutes, take care it does not burn at the top, which may be prevented by covering it with paper., NO 15.-Purée de Gibier à l'Espagnole. This is an entrée of desserte. Take the fleshy parts of young partridges that have been in a salmi, chop and pound them well. Warm the sauce in which some fried bread is left simmering: Then throw the pounded meat into the sauce. Strain the whole through a tammy. You need not put any seasoning, if the salmi was sufficient- ly seasoned. If you were asked for purée de gibier, you then would make a sauce à salmi, and put drained pounded meat of young par- R 2 245 namely the loins and skin all except only the claws that would give a bad taste. You let the above stew for an hour and a half on the corner of the stove, skim off the grease, put in a small lump of sugar to counteract the bitter taste of the lungs, drain the sauce through a tammy over the limbs, and put the salmi au bain marie, and send up with fried slices of bread cut into the shape of a kite, or of bellows. If per chance you are short of Espagnole, make a little roux, and moisten with some blond de veau, &c. N: 17.—Young Partridges à la Monglas. This is also an entrée de desserte. Take three roasted or stewed birds ; open them in the mid- dle, make a square aperture, keep the legs wide open by means of a skewer, that you may be enabled to introduce a salpicon inside of the breasts of the birds. The salpicon is to be made in the following manner. Cut into very small dice the flesh that you have taken up; cut like- wise small dice of tongue and of mushrooms; in case you should have any truffles by you, a few may be added. Reduce a little velouté with which you mix some glace de gibier. Put the dice of meat in the velouté, season well, and stuff your birds with the salpicon. Lay crumbs of bread, the yolks of eggs, and basted with R3 246 butter over the top, and use the salamander to give a colouring to your birds. You next keep the whole hot in an oven, and send up with an Espagnole de gibier. (See Sauces.) · N. 18.-Young Partridges en surprise. Do as above, but instead of a salpicon make an émincé of fillets of partridges, with which stuff the birds. Dip them into eggs and crumbs of bread as above, and fried of a nice colour and send up with a suprême de gibier. (See Sauces.) N. 19.– Quenelles of young Partridges au fumet. Make the quenelles as indicated in its proper place, but these are to be made of the meat of young partridges. You may send them up in different ways, au clair, à l'essence, &c. &c. (See Sauces.) N: 20.-Boudins of young Partridges, Make boudins de quenelles of young partridges; butter the bottom of a stew-pan, lay your boudins over the butter and pour some boiling water over them, with a little salt. When poach, drain them, you then lay them to cool : when cold you dip them into an omelette and crumbs of bread: next you fry them. Drain them 247 well, till no particle of dripping be left, and send up with an Italienne blanche under them. If you should wish to send them up broiled, you must use yolks of eggs, next crumbs of bread, then butter and crumbs again before you þroil them. 248 CHAP. XỊ. RABBITS. NO 1.-Fillets of young Rabbits à la Orlie, It is to be observed that warren rabbits alone ought to be sent up to a good table, tame rabbits in general having no savour. Take four rabbits; detach the fillets, and filets mignons : cut the large fillets of an equal size: marinate them in lemon juice, a little parsley, a shalot cut into slices, a little thyme, a bay-leaf, salt, pepper, &c. &c. for two hours. Drain them, dip them into the white of an egg that has been well beaten, and then into some flour mixed with crumbs of bread. Fry them till it be of a fine brown, and serve under them a poivrade, or an Espagnole de gibier, observe particularly those fillets must be green done. N: 2.- Turban of Fillets of Rabbits à la Sul- tane. Take the fillets of four rabbits, which pro- duces eight fillets, likewise the filets mignons 249 and kidneys; lard the eight fillets with very small slips of bacon all of an equal size. Have a farce à quenelles ready made out of the legs of the rabbits. It would be requisite to have a kind of a coupe pâte very high, or sweetmeai pot to be put in the middle of the dish, in order to raise the turban all around it; in this case the grease might be more easily drained, which is always in great abundance if you place not a mould in the centre of the dish. Take a large piece of stale bread, cover it with a thin layer of bacon, lay it in the middle of the dish, and dress the farce à quenelles equally round on it: then with the handle of a wooden spoon mark eight ribs, leaving an interval between each not straight but rather sloping ; put the fillets of rabbits inside each of those ribs; and after having skinned the kidneys put them into four of the intervals two by two, in the other four you put fillets of truffles. Mind to turn the pointed extremity of the fillets inside of the turban, otherwise they would not stick. Cover the whole with layers of bacon. If you have an earthen-pan that may cover the whole hermetically, lay it over without using the layers of bacon. The steam alone will prevent the fillets from getting dry. When the turban has been kept in the oven long enough to be well 250 baked, you glaze the fillets of a light brown, take the lump of bread out from the middle of the dish, and wipe off all the grease. When going to send up put an emincé of rabbits in the middle of the dish, and sauce the outside with avery good fumé of rabbit. L. N. 3.-Emincé of Rabbits au fumet. This is an entrée de desserte. Take the fillets of roasted rabbits, parez the nerves, then make án émincé but keep your knife sideways in a slope, that the thin slices may curl like shav- ings ; put the émincé in a reduced velouté mixed with some glace de gibier : do not forget pour- ing into the émincé a little thick cream to give it a white colour and make it more mellow. You may put the émincé either in a bordures, a vol au vent, a casserolle uu ris, a turban, a grenade, a gratin, petty patties, petites casserollettes au ris, &c. &c. NO 4.-Escalopes of Rabbits aux Truffles, like- wise à la Conti. Take five rabbits; detach the fillets, tear off the nerves, then scollop the fillets keeping your knife in a slope; fatten with the handle of the knife; put the escalope in a sauté pan with some clarified butter : have some truffles peeled and 251 cut into slices of the same size as the scollops ready, mix them with the rabbits into some butter, salt, and pepper. Sautez the whole a little just before dinner time, drain the butter and put the scollop in the sauce, in order that the truffles may give a relish to the sauce, like- wise to the meat. Garnish the edges of the dish with a conti. (See Conti.) No 5.—Blanquette of Rabbits aux Pois. Take four rabbits, detach the fillets, sautez them entire in clarified butter with a little salt and pepper ; next cut them on a sheet of paper, of the size of a shilling, and put them into the sauce à blanquette aux pois. (See Sauces.) This entrée is sent up in a vol au vent, a casserole au ris, &c. NO 6.-Escalopes of Rabbits au fumet. Take five rabbits, detach the fillets, sautez them in clarified butter. When done cut them as for a blanquette, and put them into a sauce made as follows. With the remnants of the rabbits you make a consommé; put a large slice. of Westmoreland ham in a small stew-pan, with some pieces of veal and the bones, &c. put the rabbits over them; then moisten with two spoon- fuls of rich broth. Let the meat sweat thorough- ly, till, when you thrust your knife into it, 252 neither scum nor juice will issue. You then fill the stew-pan with boiling broth, well seasoned with a bunch of parsley, green onions, thyme, bay-leaves, and a few mushrooms. When the Consommé is done enough, put a small lump of butter into the stew-pan on the fire, and as soon as the butter is melted, throw in a spoonful of flour; let the four fry a little in the butter, without however getting brown. Next moisten with the consommé. Then throw in a bunch of parsley and green onions and few mushrooms. Let this sauce boil gently on the corner of the stove for an hour. Skim the grease off carefully, then reduce the sauce, and thicken it with the yolks of three eggs well beaten with some cream. Drain this sauce through a tammy over the esca- lopes, and send up quite hot. This entrée may be served either with or without contis, in a casserole au ris, a vol au vent, a bord de filet, &c. &c. NO 7.–Sauté of Rabbits à la Conti. See N 6. Only keep two fillets which you divide, into four pieces, cross ways. Flatten them a little with the handle of your knife; lard them with thin slips of bacon. Then butter a sauté pan. Give the above pieces whatever shape you may think proper, powder a little 253 salt over them, and bake them. Do not let them be too long in the oven ; glaze them nicely, and dish them round the escalopes. NO 8.—Young Rabbits en friteau. Take several very young rabbits ; skin them and cut them in four according to the size ; let them be marinated as in N. 1 of this chapter. Drain them, and dip them into flour; then fry them till of a light brown. Serve up with a poivrade, or a sauce aux tomates. (See Sauces.) NO 9.-- Rabbits à la Vénitienne. Take three young rabbits; skin and empty them nicely, then cut them into pieces in the following manner. Take up the shoulders, then the head from the neck down to the loins; those divide into four parts; take off the legs on each side of the saddle, and those cut into two pieces. Have ready half a pottle of mushrooms chopped very fine, with parsley and shalots the same. Put a small lump of butter into a stew-pan with a little rasped bacon : put the sweet herbs on the fire with a little salt, pepper, and all-spice; let them stew for a short time on a slow fire. When sufficiently fried you put in the rabbits to make - them get firm, with these sweet herbs, till the former be sufficiently done. Take the limbs out 254 from the seasoning, lean the stew-pán sideways to skim the grease that comes uppermost, make a thickening of the yolks of four eggs ; with the juice of a lemon and a little Cayenne pepper ; stir the sauce well: if it happened to be too thick, make it thinner with a spoonful of broth: keep it quite hot, throw the members into the sauce again, and send up quite hot. This sauce must be rather high seasoned. N. 10.- Rabbits en caisses. Make cases of paper either square or round; dip the rabbits as above into sweet herbs ; when nearly done put them into the paper cases and the sweet herbs over them, with the rasped crust of a two-penny French loaf, to absorb the fat, or grease. Then put the paper cases into an oven. Before you send up squeeze a little lemon juice, and pour in a few spoonfuls of Espagnole. N11.-Giblottes of Rabbits. Take two rabbits : it matters very little whe- ther they be young or not, to make a giblotte. Skin them, and cut them into pieces as above. Have ready some pieces of breast of bacon cut into the shape of small corks, which are blanched in order that they may no longer be briny. 255 Next fry them in the stew-pan with a little but- ter, to give them a light brown colour. Take the bacon out from the stew-pan wherein puto the members of the rabbits ; when made firm you take them out also; throw a good handful of flour with the butter in the stew-pan, let it get a little brown; next moisten with some blond de veau. Let the sauce boil a little to see whether it be not too thick: if so, you will never be able to skim the grease off, and accord- ingly it will never be of a good colour. When sufficiently stewed you put in the members, bacon, bunch of parsley and green onions, thyme, bay-leaf, clove, &c. &c. ; and when the sauce has boiled for an hour you put the mem- bers into another clean stew-pan, and drain the sauce through a tammy, you then take some mushrooms tournées, and some small onions which fry white in butter, let them boil for a quarter of an hour in the sauce. When you are going to send up dish first the members, next the small white onions, the bacon and the mushrooms. Skim the fat off and scum, other- wise there can be no good cookery. NO 12.-Giblottes of Rabbits au blanc. Do as above, but after having moistened with consommé and having singé with four (by which saud en 256 is meant to dust four equally on all sides) you let the whole stew for about an hour. Next take off all the scum and grease : shift the mem- bers into another clean stew-pan; reduce the sauce, drain it through a tammy over the mem- bers, lay the giblotte on the fire, and when it boils, thicken it with the yolks of four eggs, and the juice of a lemon. This sauce although white must be high seasoned. Note, if you want to make your giblotte whiter, you disgorge the rabbit and blanch them. N. 13.-Fillets of young Rabbits en lorgnettes. Take the fillets of four young rabbits that have been Aayed ; lard them with thin bits of bacon ; when thus larded make an opening on the thick- est part by thrusting your knife nearly to the very extremity. Then run the knife in, but no farther than the middle; and so on with the rest. Put a little butter in a sauté pan; thrust your finger into the opening you have made; give those parts the shape of a lorgnette, put them for a moment in an oven that they may take a good form. When made firm, mark them in a stew-pan, over a bed of minced roots and vege- tables, covered with bacon, seasoned with salt, pepper, thyme, bay-leaves, &c. &c. moisten with two spoonfuls of consommé. Let the whole 257 stew for a quarter of an hour, or twenty minutes, drain the fillets, reduce the liquor, to which add a little glaze of a light colour, and send up with endives au velouté, or a soubise. (See Sauces.) Dish en miroton, and pour the sauce in the middle. Mind the sauce be not too liquid. AKE size · N. 14.—Pálé chaud of Rabbits. Take on or two rabbits, according to the size you wish to make the páté of. Skin and empty them; then detach the legs and shoulders; which you cut by halves : from the head to the tail cut out four pieces of an equal size : then chop a shalot, a little parsley, and a few mushrooms and stew them : next put the members in the butter with the sweet herbs, till the flesh is quite firm, then season with salt, pepper, and spices. In the course of a few minutes, drain the butter. Then make a paste (see Pastry) and put the limbs into the oven. · When the crust is baked enough, make a round opening, lift up this kind of cover, and just as you are going to send up, pour into the pye a ragoût à la financière. (See Sauces.) Be careful to drain the grease that might have remained. N. B.-The above is the true manner of mak- ing a páté chaud. Several people will make a ann 258 croute de pâté, which is commonly called crous- tade ; and after having emptied it, introduce a kind of giblotte. The former method however is preferable. N15.—Quenelles of Rabbits. This farce is made like the generality of quenelles: the only difference is that you take the flesh of rabbits instead of any other meat. The legs in general are used for making the quenelles; the fillets will supply you with ano- ther entrée ; so will the leys occasionally. The bones and the parures are used to make the consommé. NO 16.—Gratin of Rabbits. This is an entrée de desserte ; take a couple of roasted rabbits ; lift up the whole fleshy parts; then parez those that have nerves about them; mince the meat very fine, and put this émincé into a velouté reduced: take a little of the liquor which gratinez (by gratiné is meant to stick at the bottom in a silver dish without burn- ing). When the preparation is cold, stick a border of soft bread all round the inside of the dish, and put your émincé in the middle : level it well with a knife: then powder crumbs of bread over it, which baste with melted but- 260 NO 18.-Croquettes of Rabbits. Cut the meat of young roasted rabbits into dice, which throw into a velouté reduced, to which add a little glace de gibier. Let this cool, then roll it into whatever shape you like, either into balls, or in the shape of a cork, or of a pear ; but, in my opinion those that are the less handled are the best. Send up as other croquettes, garnished with fried parsley in the centre. N19.- Boudins of Rabbits à la Reine. PREPARE in the same manner as the croquettes: roll the meat into large boudins ; dip them into eggs and crumbs of bread, and fry them. Serve under them a velouté with a little glace de gibier. N. 20.-Boudins of Rabbits à la Richelieu. Take some quenelles of rabbits, otherwise a farce, with which you mix some white onions cut into dice and let them sweat white. Put the onions in a hair sieve to drain the butter, then mix them with the farce ; let it cool, next roll it into two boudins of the same length as your dish. Poach them in water with a little salt, when done, drain them on a clean cloth, and let them cool. Then dip them into an omelette and crumbs, and fry them till they be 261 a light brown. Send up with an Italienne under. NO 21.- Legs of Rabbits en Papillotte. Bone the legs of the rabbits. Have ready some sweet herbs with a little rasped bacon, salt, pepper, spices, &c. Stew the legs into those herbs till they be hot through. Let them cool. When cold cut slips of paper of the size of those legs, or even a little larger. Then take small layers of bacon, lay one on the paper, and the leg over the bacon, then a little seasoning, and another layer of bacon ; wrap the whole in the paper, which is to be plaited equally all round. Then broil them over a slow fire, and send up hot, without any sauce. NO 22.-Rissoles of Rabbits. Take the remnants of roasted rabbits, with which make a farce fine. (See farce fine.} Spread on the table some feuilletage, but do not let it be too rich ; cover it, at equal dis- tances, with little lumps of farce; noisten the past all round, then fold it in two ; lean upon it all round with your fingers, that the paste may stick ; then with a rowel cut it and let it fry till it be of a fine brown. You may occasionally powder them over with crumbs of bread, when s 3 .. . 262 they look of a better colour, but they have not so good a taste. You must always send them up with fried parsley in the middle of the dish. NO 23.-Boudins of Rabbits à la Lucullus. MAKE boudins of rabbits with quenelles of the same length as the dish; poach them in milk, butter, and a little salt. When done enough drain them on a clean towel. Cut one side flat till they dish well; have a little velouté reduced and pretty thick, which whiten with a little thick cream. Mask the boudins with this sauce, but do not use more than is requisite for masking the boudins, since in the middle you are to serve a ragoût à l'Allemande, which is the same thing as a Toulouse. You must have six fillets larded equally. Take a very large carrot, cover it with thin layers of bacon, and lay the fillets over the carrot with a little salt : let them stand a moment in the oven till they be firm : you then glaze and dry them with the salamander: now glaze them a second time: then lay one fillet at each extremity of the boudin, and one fillet in the middle. Mind to keep this entrée well covered, for if not, it would not be of a fine colour, and the velouté would dry up, e 263 NO 24.- Fillets of Rabbits à la Maréchale." Take the fillets of four young rabbits ; divide each of them into two pieces, in order that they be not too long: flatten them with the back of your knife that they may be sooner done; let them be of an equal size ; season them with salt and pepper; break the yolks of two eggs in a plate ; then brush the fillets over with those yolks of eggs, and dip them into crumbs of bread, next into melted butter, and then again crumbs of bread, so that they lay very even. Press the fillets between both your hands, in order to melt the butter, and that the crumbs may stick in greater quantity. Broil them on a brisk fire, always observing that the thinner and the more tender the objects, the more brisk must the fire be ; for if it were not so, the fillets would get over done, without being of a nice brown. Dish them en miroton, and mask them with a brown Italienne mixed with a small quantity of glace de gibier. Nº 25.-Fillets of Rabbits à la Pompadour. Take the billets of four young rabbits ; cut each fillet into two lengthways and as long as possible. Make a sauce d'attelet (see sauce d'attelet) put the fillets into the seasoning after having dusted them over with salt and pepper. . S 4 264 Let this preparation cool, without however getting quite cold; yet sufficiently so as to enable you to lay some round the fillets. Now dip the fillets once into crumbs of bread : then break three eggs in an earthen-pan with a little salt, beat them, throw in the fillets, next dip them lightly a second time into crumbs of bread, and fry them of a nice colour. Dish them in the shape of a pile, which could not be done if they were not kept crisp. Send up with the sauce à la pompadour in the middle. N? 26.- Attercaux of Rabbits a l'Italienne. Take the fillets of four young rabbits ; cut them into pieces of one inch square, let them be made firm mixed with sweet herbs; when nearly done, drain and season them with a little salt and pepper ; take the sweet herbs with which they have been stewed, and make a sauce d'attelet, into which throw the square pieces you have prepared; then let them get quite cold, next take silver skewers, have a few pieces of calf's udder of the same breadth as the pieces of rabbits but not so thick, run a skewer first through one of the latter pieces, dipped into the sauce, next through a piece of the udder and so on; observing however to have a piece of rabbit at each extremity. Do not stuff the attelet too 265 full, for some of it must project at each end. Put plenty of the sauce, and give a square shape to the aforesaid preparation ; then dip it into crumbs of bread; next when of a good shape into an omelette well seasoned : and into crumbs of bread a second time, fry it till of a fine colour, and send up with a brown Italienne mixed with a little glace of rabbit. There are numbers of entrées of rabbits which I refrain mentioning in this present edition. The bressole, pains of rabbits, profitrolles, &c. &c. which are quite out of fashion shall be left out; for fashion prevails every where. A veteran cook may still make good dishes, but they will not catch the eye, as the phrase goes. In the common way many entrées may be made with the legs of rabbits, but as many dishes of game are not to be sent up at a time, provided you have fillets, it is better to use the legs for farces, or petty patties, or croquettes. 266 CHAP. XII. HARES AND LEVERETS. It is prpper to observe, that the hares are fit to be sent up to a nobleman's table, when they still shew their age. To be made acquainted wie hether they be hold or young, feel the first joint of the fore claw : if you find a small nodus, the animal is still young: should this nodus have disappeared, turn the claw sideways, and if the joint crack, this is a sign of its being still tender ; if not it is only fit to be made en daube, or en civet : but if very tough a daube, is preferable ; yet it is a very insignificant dish, the more so as requiring high se.soning, it is too nourishing to be sent up to a nobleman's table, or that of any real epicure. . NO 1.—Hare en Daube. AFTER having skinned, emptied and washed off the blood of a hare, you divide it through the 267 middle. Have ready layers of bacon well sea- soned with chopped parsley, spices, salt and pepper. Lard the hare as thick as possible; put slices of bacon in the bottom of a stew-pan, cover them with slices of bare, tie up a large bundle of parsley, seasoned with thyme, bay- leaves, sweet bazil, a clove and common spices · a few carrots, four large white onions, two calf's feet, and a few pieces of breast of bacon ; season the whole with salt, pepper, &c. and a few roots of parsley. Moisten with a couple of spoonfuls of rich broth, a pint of white wine ; cover the whole with a round of buttered paper, to pre- vent the hare getting dry; now cover it hermeti- cally, and let it stew for three hours as gently as possible: then take it off from the fire; drain the bare ; skim the liquor, drain it through a silk sieve, and let it cool, that it may be eaten cold ; although you may serve it hot, with a garnish all round. In this latter case you make a roux with a little flour and butter; when of a very light colour, moisten it with the liquor in which the bare has been stewed, and let it boil enough for the four to be done, and then send up, plain as it is.. N. B.- If you wish the jelly should look bright, break a couple of eggs into the jelly whilst not hot; beat it over the fire till it begins. 268 boiling, then lay it aside with a cover and a little fire over it ; when limpid drain it through a cloth, and let it cool, to be used occasionally. N. 2.-Civet of Hare, served as Terrine. Skin and empty the hare, but take care not to waste the blood. First cut off the two legs, next divide them into two or three pieces ; cut likewise' the body into equal pieces ; be particu- lar in preserving the blood in a vessel, to be used as follows. Take half a pound of breast of pork, otherwise called petit lard, cut it into small square pieces about an inch thick, blanch these in water, then put them into the stew..pan, with a small lump of butter; let them fry till they be of a fine brown; take out the bacon, and put the pieces of hare into the stew-pan, (of all things pull out the eyes) stew them in the butter till firm ; then take them out and make a roux, which is not to be kept too long on the fire. Moisten with about a quart of broth and a pint of red wine; put in the pieces of hare, the bacon, a bunch of parsley, &c. with pepper, salt, and spices, and a few white onions, to give a relish, together with some parures of mush- rooms. Let the whole boil for an hour and try whether the pieces of hare be done. Skim the grease off from the sauce; then put the mem- ben 269 bers in a clean stew-pan, one after another, likewise the bacon and nothing else. You must have ready some white onions fried in butter, till they be of a light brown ; those you stew in a little consommé, or blond de veau. Have like- · wise some mushrooms stewed in butter. Let the sauce boil gently, yet it must get thick. Now the blood and liver, that have been left in a vessel are to be poured into the sauce as thick- ening. You must not let the sauce boil, other- wise the blood would in some measure curdle, neither would the sauce be of the same dark brown colour. Civet must appear as black as possible: then put in the onions and mush- rooms, and send up high seasoned. NO 3.- Fillets of Hare, au Sang. . When a hare has been skinned, thrust your knife all along the spine, taking care ever to lean towards the bone. Detach with your fin- gers, the fillet down from the neck to the legs ; leave the thick fleshy part after the leg ; then introduce your knife, the sharp side towards the tender part of the fillet and your thumb towards the skin ; press with your thumb on the sharp side of the blade of the knife, in order that it may not cut the part affected with the nervcs. You then pull towards you the fillet, and the rod caso 270 nerve remains attached to the leg. This opera tion being performed, you scollop the fillets, that is to say, you lay the fillets on the table, and flatten them with the back of your knife, then slope your knife, cut off slices nearly flat; mark them in a scuté pan with clarified butter, and dust a little salt and pepper over them. At dinner time sautez the escalopes, drain the butter, and put the fillets into a sauce de civet, which you have made with the remnants, as it will require at least a couple of hares to make escalopes au sung. Mind to preserve the blood of both, in order that the sauce may be black, or of a dark brown. The members may serve for a terrine ; but are not worth eating for the parlour, but are good for the servants. NO 4.-Fillets of Hare en Chevreuil. - Take the fillets of three or four hares, accord- ing to the size of your dish, detach the fillets, and lard them with bacon cut very equal; then put them into a deep vessel : with salt and pepper, a little parsley, two onions cut into slices, a bay-leaf, a little thyme, a glass of vine- gar and half a glass of water. Let these be mari- nated for a couple of days; you then drain the fillets and mark them in a sauté pan with a little butter : bake them next verd cuits: glaze them 271 with glace clair, they being always black enough. Send them up with a poivrade under it. NO 5.- Pain of Hares, boudins of Hares, roasted Hares. I shall only observe that boudins, quenelles, émincés, &c. may be made of hares, although in England it is most customary to serve them roasted. They nevertheless are very good when made into pieces. Roasted hares ought always to be tender. In England after being skinned, they are not shewn to the fire a little, as in France, to be made firm. They make a farce in the following manner. They take a good handful of crumb of bread, with the same quan- tity of beef-suet well chopped, a little chopped parsley, a little thyme, salt, pepper, two eggs, a little butter, and a little milk. They mix these up in an oval shape, with which they stuff the belly of the hare, and sew up the belly. They stick the fore legs under the belly, and double the hind legs under the belly also, then skewer them well; the head stands erect as if the hare was running, and they flay the ears. If it be an old hare it will require an hour doing, if young three-quarters of an hour will do. Serve it up with gravy, and some currant-jelly in a sauce-boat. Some people like a poivråde under it. 272 SAIC banner Entrées of red legged Partridges, or Bartavelles. These sort of partridges are very scarce in England: yet let those who chance to meet with some, cook them in the same manner as the other partridges. Quails and Cailleteaur. The cailleteaux are young quails, but owing to their enormous price in England, they are very seldom, if ever, to be procured at the poulterers. An entrée of fillets of young quails, besides its costing too dear, is never attempted; the expence would come to an extravagant price, without any other merit. NO 1.- Compotte of Quails. • Take six or eight quails according to the size of your dish. Cut the claws off, empty the birds without making too large an opening. Truss them en poule, that is to say, with the legs inward. Have a dozen pieces of bacon cut in the shape of a cork, blanch them in order to draw the salt out: then let them stew in the butter till they be of a light brown; then take them out of the stew-pan to make room for the quails, which stew till they begin to be of a light brown also, and then take them out. Make a rout, which moisten with a little blond de 73 veau, add a bunch of parsley and green onions, some small white onions (if approved of) mush- rooms, &c. As soon as the quails are done, take them out of the stew-pan, and let the bacon stew till thoroughly done. Skim the saure well, and drain it through a tammy over the quails : then dish the bacon, mushrooms, and small onions, and send up quite hot, and well sea, soned. N: 2.—Compotte of Quails à blanc. This is made in the same manner as the com- potte of partridges, N? 8, wiih the only difference that you use broth instead of blond de veau; thicken the sauce, or serve the onions à blanc, the same as the mushrooms. N: 3.-Quails aur Pois. EMPTY, singe, and truss six nice quails ; mark them in a stew-pan wrapped up with layers of bacon : moisten with a pocle if you have any, - if not with two spoonfuls of broth, a bunch of parsley, &c. now season them well. Stew them for twenty minutes over a very slow fire. Drain them well and let them boil for a moment with the pois au lard. (See Sauces pois à brun, pois à blanc.) Next dish them, and reduce the 274 liquor which having boiled with the quails would be too thin to mask with. N. 4.—Quails an gratin. Bone six quails, pick them nicely : take a little farce fine, made in preference of the flesh of young rabbits : fill the bodies of the quails with the said furce : then raise a kind of a dome on a dish, and with a spoon make room for the birds : next make an opening in the middle; let it be either round or square accord- ing to the shape of the dish. Put a piece of soft bread covered with layers of bacon within the opening; cover the birds with layers of bacon, and put the dish into the oven for about a quarter of an hour, or twenty minutes at most, till the birds be done. Drain the grease carefully. Then take six slices of bread cut in the shape of cock’s-combs, which you fry in butter till they be of a light brown, and put them one by one between the birds. Serve a ragout à la finan. cière in the middle, and mask the birds and the gratin with a good. Espagnole. NO 5.- Quails à la Bourguignotte. Mark the quails as indicated, NO 3: when done drain them well, and let them boil for a 276 couple of minutes in the bourguignotte (see Sauces), leave them in the sauce during an hour, when the stew-pan is to be put au bain marie, that the birds may taste of the sauce and truffles. NO 6.-Quails à la Crapaudine. These are dressed and cooked in the same manner as the pigeons, or partridges à la cra- paudine. Serve them up with an Italienne, or a consommé à glace over them. Woodcocks and Snipes. WoodcocKS, the same as snipes, are good only when they are fat. They are cooked but in very few ways. The most delicate parts are the legs and the intestines. The fillets of wood- cocks, for those who do not like their meat verd cuit, are tough and without savour. They are held in high estimation when roasted or en salmi. A purée of woodcocks is also served occasionally. They may however be dressed in as many ways as young partridges. When roasted, you must always put a toast under them, to receive the intestines which generally drop off whilst roast- ing, unless paper be used to secure them. Take care to stop the spit when the back is towards the fire, because the legs are to be well done, and the fillets verds cuits. n IV T2 276 NO 1.-Salmi of Woodcocks. The same operation is required as for the salmi of partridges. Instead of boiling the parures in the sauce, take out the members, as you do in the salmi of partridges, and pound the remainder in a mortar till you can strain it through a tammy. When you have skimmed the grease off, and given a good seasoning, moisten the pounded meat with that sauce ; then strain it through a tammy, put it over the legs in a bain marie. The salmi must be made hot, but without boiling. Serve up with slices of fried bread cut into hearts and glazed. ...NO 2.-Salmi of Woodcocks à l'Espagnole. If you have any roasted woodcocks left, cut them as for eating ; mark the members in a stew- pan; make a sauce as for partridges : put the parures into the sauce boiled for an hour : when the sauce has been well skimmed, and that there is no grease left, drain it through a tammy over the members. Let it be made hot without boil- ing, and serve up with slices of fried bread be. tween the members. NO 3.-Croustade de purée of Woodcocks. · If you have any salmi of woodcocks left, drain all the sauce, mince the flesh well and pound it 277 in a mortar; then moisten it with the sauce, and warm it to know whether the purée be too thin or too thick : drain it then through a tammy, and put it au bain marie ; then work it with a small lump of very fresh butter. Cut eight slices of bread into hearts all of an equal size : try them on the dish to see whether they form a regular flower ; then cut another slice quite round to put in the middle over the points of the hearts: this completed, make a deep - incision all round the upper part, without how- ever it being cut through : then fry them in clarified butter till of a light brown: as soon as they are fried cut the middle out, to leave as little crumb as possible. Keep them hot, well wrapt up in a clean sheet of paper. When ready- to serve up, work the purée, and pour it into the croustade. You may send up this purée in a bord de plat with poached eggs, or in a vol au vent, &c. NO 1.-Plovers. PLOVERS are hardly fit but to be roasted. Sometimes however they are prepared à la bour- guignotte, which is indeed the only way of mak- ing a ragout of plovers. In this latter case empty and truss them as neatly as possible; mark them in a stew-pan with layers of bacon ; T 3 278 moisten them with a little poële or with broth; when done enough let them simmer a little in a bourguignotte, and serve up hot with a garnish. N? 2.- Capilotade of Plovers. If you have any roasted plovers left, and that you should be short of an entrée, parez them cut by halves : flay them, put them into a stew- pan with two spoonfuls of lialienne, a glass of white wine, a little salt and pepper. Let them simmer for a quarter of an hour, and dish them with fried slices of bread between. Skim the sauce, squeeze the juice of a lemon, and mask the members with the sauce. Pigeons. There are pigeons of various sorts; namely, tame pigeons, wild pigeons, and wood pigeons, The former are most in use," although wild pigeons be good either broiled or roasted; but if made ragoûts or fricassés of, their flesh is too black. Small pigeons à la gautier are of great service for garnishing, but they make very indifferent entrées. - N° 1.-Compotte of Pigeons au rour. Take four or six pigeons ; after having picked them cut off the nerve below the joint of the leg : TO 279 empty them without taking out the liver, but feel with your finger to ascertain whether there is no grain left in the paunch. Truss the legs inwards, and make an incision in the back to have them disgorge. Then put them into a stew- pan with some lukewarm water to draw out the blood : nest mark them in layers of bacon, and stew them as you would do chickens. When done drain them and send up with a rugoút à la financière. N. 2.--Compotte of Pigeons à la Paysanne. Truss up your pigeons as above; wash them clean in warm water. Cut half a pound of petit lard into small slices of about an inch, blanchi them first, and then put them into a stew-pan with a small lump of butter; when these are of à nice light brown, take them out to make rooin for the pigeons, and when become firm take them out also. Throw a good spoonful of flour into the grease, that is, in the stew-pan, and let it become of a light brown colour; then pour either a little broth or warm water even into it, season with salt, pepper, spices, a bunch of parsley and green onions, a few mushrooms, and small white onions. Then put the pigeons into the sauce or liquor, and let the whole stew gently. Next skim off the grease, put the pigeons into T 4 281 ings of bread, salt, pepper, &c. Let this boil for a while, pour it over the pigeons, and send vp hot. N? 4.–Pigeons au Soleil. These indeed are not well named as they shine but very little. It is an entrée de desserte, and that is saying enough. If you have any pigeons either roasted or otherwise left, cut off the pigeons in two. You next put them in a marinade. (See N. 39. Entrées of Fowl.) When they have simmered for half an hour in the marinade, let them cool, drain them, and put them into a páte à frire. (See påte à frire.) Fry them of a good colouring, and serve up, if you like with fried parsley in the middle, or a poivrade, or a sauce piquante. (See Sauces.) N. 5.- Cutlets of Pigeons à la d'Armagnac. Take eight pigeons, as you may make one entrée out of the loins and legs, another with what is called the breech of a pigeon, such as a compotte, or dress it with green peas, &c. &c. Take the flesh of the breasts, mince it with a little panade (see farces), a small quantity of calf's udder, or calf's suet ready boiled : of these latter let the quantity be the same, but some- 282 what less of the panade. Put the whole into a mortar, but observe that with the panade is required plenty of sweet herbs, shalots, parsley, mushrooms, &c. When the farce has been well pounded use a couple of eggs to give it more substance: then bake a little bit in a tart mould, in order to taste whether it be sufficient- ly seasoned. Spread the whole on a plafond well buttered, and very even: then let it cool, When cold, either with a cutter or with your knife, cut the minced meat into cutlets, without however detaching it from the plafond : this being done put the plafond over something hot, merely to melt the butter. Then take the bones out of the pinions, which scrape well and stick them into the extremity of the cutlets, dip them into an omelette, and into crumbs of bread, and fry them, but do not let the dripping be too hot, that the cutlets may have sufficient time to be done through without being burnt. Dish the cutlets en miroton, with either fried parsley, or an Italienne in the middle. N: 6.—Cutlets of Pigeon à la Maréchale. TAKE the fillets of eight pigeons, flatten them with the back of your knife, scrape the bone of the pinion, stick it into the point of the cutlet; dip the cutlets into melted butter: after having 283 seasoned them with salt and pepper, dip them önce only into crumbs of bread, but very even and smooth; broil them till they be of a nice colour and send them up with rich gravy, or an Italienne. NO 7..Pigeons à la Toulouse, Pick, empty, truss, and singe six young pigeons : mark them in a stew-pan trimmed with layers of bacon : moisten with a little pocle ; let them stew for sixteen or twenty minutes. Then drain and dish them, and mask them with a Toulouse. (See Sauces.) N. 8.--Pigeons à la Financière. For this entrée you must procure young pigeons à la gautier, singe them slightly. Melt about half a pound of butter, squeeze the juice of a lemon into the butter, and then let the pigeons be sautés over the fire twice or three times only. Then put the pigeons into a stew- pan trimmed with layers of bacon, pour the melted butter and lemon-juice over them; then cover them well: it is also requisite to pour in likewise a spoonful of poële to prevent their frying. Sweat them for a quarter of an hour, drain them, dish them nicely, and mask them with a financière, CO 284 n NO 9.- Pigeons à l'Aspic clair. ' Take six pigeo is à la gautier which cook as those above, N. 8. When done, dish them with large craw-fish between each pigeon, and an aspic clair. (See Sauces.) NO 10.—Pigeons cooked in all Manner of Ways. As I do not pretend to make a shew of extra- ordinary knowledge by introducing a multiplicity. of names, and of entrées which are no longer in fashion, I shall observe only that pigeons in general are rather used for garnitures than for entrées. In the first case they are prepared as indicated, N? 8. They may be made aux pois, à la sauce aux tomates, en marinade au blanc, au roux, &c. &c. The only science consists in preserving their white colour. The shape is ever the same, and with respect to the same every one has his choice. For la godard, or la chambord, likewise for the generality of grand garnitures, pigeons à la gautier are requisite. A pigeon pie is a very plain dish, which is left to the management of common female cooks. To make a pigeon pie, put a few thin slices of beef in a dish, and the pigeons over them, well seasoned with salt, pepper, and spices, the yolks of a few eggs within the intervals, and a spoonful 285 of broth, cover the whole with plain paste, or with feuilletage, &c. &c. Ducks, wild Ducks. Ducks are only fit to be sent up for entrées, when they begin to be plump; they are good towards November, when they are plump and fat, but those that are sold in London in May, June, or July, are nothing but skin and bone. Ducks, the same as woodcocks require the fillets being verd cuits, and the legs are nearly raw if care be not taken to stop the spit when the hack is turned towards the fire. The legs and breast, by this means are not over done. N? 1.-Duck aux Navets. AFTER having emptied, trussed, and singed the duck, mark it between layers of bacon, and moisten them either with a po le, or broth with a little salt. Stew the duck for three- quarters of an hour if it be a young one; if old or tough it will require an hour: when done drain it and let it simirer in the sauce aux navets. (See Sauces.) NO 2.- Duck aux petits Pois. PREPARE and cook as above. When done lay it over the green peas. (See Sauces.) When 286 the duck is too large it is not to be served entire; but cut into four or five pieces ; namely, the breast, the two wings, which otherwise are called fillets, the two legs and the back. Parez all those parts, or members properly; mark them as above; put them into the sauce, (see pois au lard) when they are to be left for an hour, that they may become of a good savour, and send up with very little thick sauce, but good many peas, for such the duck requires. NO 3.—Duck à la purée de Pois verds.' PREPARE the duck as above, and send it up with a purée of pois verds over it (see purée verte) or with a hochepot. (See hochepot.) NO 4.—Ducklings à la Bigarade. This entrée requires plump, fleshy ducks : pick, empty, and truss them well with the legs stuck upwards. First roast them verd cuits and make incisions in the breast, what the French call aiguillettes ; pour the gravy that issues from the duck into the sauce, which must be ready made in order that you may send up speedily, which is most requisite. With respect to the appropriate sauce (see Sauces). If you are al. lowed to serve up fillets only, then you must have three ducklings at least Roast them verd ery cuits; when properly done ont them into aiguil- lettes, that is four out of each duck, put them into the sauce with the juice or liquor issued from them, and send up without loss of time, and quite hot. As soon as you have put the aiguillettes into the sauce, squeeze a little juice of bigarade (bitter orange) over the whole; keep stirring well and serve up the fillets in the sauce. This is a dish for an epicure, for a dainty palate. Do not think of dishing it en couronne to give it a better appearance, but believe me send it up in the sauce, and they who eat it will fare the better on that account. Mignonette, or coarse pepper is required in this sauce, and the entrée altogether must be high seasoned. Blanch a handful of sage with a couple of onions cut into quarters ; chop them; season them with a little salt and pepper, and stuff the duck, which by so doing will acquire additional savour. NO 5.-Salmi of wild Duck. If you roast a duck on purpose let it be verd cuit Parex whilst hot, and let the parures simmer in the sauce. Then drain the sauce through a tammy over the members; let them be made hot withont boiling. The sauce is, made in the same manner as that of the salmi of partridges. 288 NO 6.-Members of Duck à la purée de Len- tilles. Poele the members as indicated, N: 1. Drain them; next mask them with the purée de len- tilles. (See purée de lentilles.) N: 7.-Duck aux Olives. This entrée is admired only by the Italians. Poile the ducks as indicated, NO 1. Pour over it la sauce aux olives, which in my opinion is no great treat. NO 8.-Cupilottade of Duck. If you have any roasted ducks left, and are called upon for one entrée more, cut the ducks as for eating, flay them, and let them simmer in a thin Italienne. Fry a few slices of bread cut into the shape of pears, and send up with the juice of a lemon. If you should not have any Italienne ready, mince a few shalots, boil them in vinegar, make a little browning (roux) which you moisten with broth or even water, and mix a little glace sea- soned with salt and pepper: put the shalots into the sauce ; let it buil a few minutes; then put the duck into the sauce to heat but without boiling, and give it a high seasoning. Such common dishes are always to be high seasoned. 289 Larks. NO 1.-Larks au gratin. Take eighteen larks, as fat as possible; pick and bone them ; next season them with salt and pepper, and stuff the larks with a farce fine, or a farce à quenelles, the former however is prefer- able. Dish them nicely, and put some of the farce in the dish. Put slices of fried bread cut whimsically between the birds. When these are put all round the dish, if there are any left put them in the middle, but these latter are to be raised higher than the rest. Cover the whole with layers of bacon, and leave it in the oven for twenty minutes. Then take off the bacon, drain the grease, and serve up with an Espagnole of a nice colour, and well seasoned. NO 2.- Caisses of Larks. Bone the larks as above; and stuff them with farce fine. Have ready small paper cases dipt into warm oil. Give the larks a round shape and put them in paper cases. Next put them on a plafond with some buttered paper over them, for fear they should be made dry whilst baking. When baked enough dish them. If there be room enough pour into the dish a little Espagnole, and lemon-juice. 290 NO 3.-Páté chaud of Larks. Bone the larks as above: then dress the pie- crust, put the farce in the bottom and the birds over the farce: then fill the crust with farce, close the pie, but leave a little hole at the top to prevent the crust from breaking. Let it be 'made of a light brown colour. When done take it out of the oven, take off likewise the top crust, or cover, then pour a ragoût à la finan- cière into the pie, after having drained the grease, if any. Do not put the top crust on again : send up hot with high seasoning, which brown entrées require more than white ones. re ery ... N. 4.–Lurks en Croustade. i This dish would find few admirers, as birds en croustade, and even pátés chauds are very seldom called for. The nobility of this country like to see what they are eating, lest they should ineet with something they do not like in a páté chaud; which they seldom will touch." The reason why is obvious and justifies their aver- sion, as the aforesaid pátés chauds are generally economical entrées made of legs or such other parts of either fowl or game. The nobility, gentry, and epicures in general, never taste but the fillets. Larks en croustade must be done 291 beforehand. You put the birds into croustades fried of a light brown, the inside part of which you cut out with a cutter : into the vacuity put first a little furce and the lark over it. Keep your birds hot, till you serve up. Pheasants. It is no easy matter to meet with a pheasant that has that exquisite taste which is acquired only by long keeping. The damp of the climate prevents their being kept so long as they are in other countries. The lens in general are more delicate. The cocks shew their age by their spurs. They are only fit to be eat, when the blood runs from the bill, which is commonly six days or a week after they have been killed. You may then either roast, or make entrées of them. The flesh of a pheasant is white, tender, and has a good savour if you keep it long enough ; if not, it has no more savour than a common fowl. sauce NO 1.-Salmi of Pheasants à l'Espagnole. Those articles in general which after having been roasted, are to be put into any sauce what- ever, require being verd cuit, and especially pheasants. After having trussed them nicely spit them. They will be done in half an hour's time. Take the bird off from the fire at the U 2 292 expiration of that time. When cold, flay and cut it, as for eating, and put the parures into the sauce à salmi. (See salmi of partridges.) Send up with fried slices of bread, &c. &c. NO 2.- Croquettes of Pheasant. The operation is the same as for all other croquettes of fowl, or game; it is only to be observed, that croquettes of game are to be stronger than those of poultry. You must not forget mixing a little glace de gibier which makes the only difference. Serve up garnished with fried parsley. NO 3.-Hachi of Pheasant à la Polonoise. Use the same method as for hachis of poultry, or of game. Garnish with poached eggs. NO 4.-Soufflé of Pheasant. See N. 14, soufflés of partridges. In gene- ral all entrées that are made of partridges, may likewise be made out of pheasants ; such as aut choux, à la Monglas, à la Barbarie, otherwise en petit deuil, à la Givry, à la Creme, &c. &c. 293 CHAP. XIII. FRESH WATER FISH. CARPS. NO 1.-Carp grillée, sauce aux Capres. You must never use fresh water fish unless it be alive, and kill it yourself. When you have beaten a few strokes on the carp's liead with a large knife, you thrust your knife under the scales, beginning at the tail, and proceed cut- ting right and left. All the scales on one side must come off at once, in a piece. Then do the same on the other side, and about the belly. When the scales have been taken off properly, and that none are left, your carp must be white; . you then take off the gills, without damaging the tongue, which is one of the most delicate parts of the carp. Make a small incision in the neck as if you were going to cut off the head; make another in the belly, but in a contrary direction and as small as passible. Then with your fore- finger draw out the roe, intestines, and guts. Wash your carp well, till there be no blood left, U 3 294 You next wipe it well, and slit both sides of the back, and let it marinate in a little oil, salt, and pepper for about an hour, or a little more. Now lay it on the gridiron over a very slow fire, that it may have time to be well done through. When broiled on both sides, serve it with a sauce aux capres, and beurre d'anchois. (See Sauces.) If the carp had a soft roe, you return it inside of the body with a little chopped parsley, mixed with a small lump of fresh butter, salt, and pepper ; then sow the belly up for fear the con- tents should drop out. When your carp is done, cut off the thread, and mask the fish with the sauce. NO 2.- Carpe farcie au four. AFTER having cleansed and prepared a carp as above, take up one balf of it, and with the flesh make a farce (see farce de carpe) with which you cover the other half, the bones whereof have been taken out. Give it a pleasing shape. Then with a very small spoon figure scales over it, and put it into the oven on a baking-pan. Take care it does not get too dry. When it is of a fine brown colour, you must cover it when it is done, which you ascertain by running your knife between the farce and the fish. If your 295 carp is done you send it up to table with a sauce aux anchois, or an Italienne en gros. *N? 3.—La Carpe au bleu, et au court-bouillon. TAKE a very fine carp, cut off the gills, but retain the tongue. Then make as small an opening as possible to empty it, and wash it well, till no blood be left. Then boil some vinegar, and when boiling hot pour it over the fish that the scales may crisp. You next wrap your carp up in a cloth, and stew it in a court, bouillon. Let it cool in the court-bouillon, in case you are to send it up cold. If it is intended to serve it up hot, then sauce it with a sauce au beurre d'anchois. (See Sauces.) Court-bouillon. Take three carrots, four onions, six shalois, and two roots of parsley, which pick and wash. Chop them very fine. Put a small lump of butter into a stew-pan, with the above roots, and stew them till they begin to get brown. Moisten next with two bottles of red wine, a bottle of water, a handful of salt, some whole pepper corn, and a bunch of parsley and green onions, seasoned with thyme, bay-leaves, sweet bazil, cloves, &c. Let the whole stew for an hour, and then drain it through a sieve, to use it occasionally, - U 4 296 If you should have no wine, put in some ving- gar. The court-bouillon is better after having served several times than on the first day. It is a famous thing for stewing craw-fish. N4.-Carpe à la Chambord. Take a very huge carp, scale it and empty it as indicated in N? 1. Have the soft roes of other small carp, which introduce into the body of the large one, after you bave seasoned them with chopped parsley, salt, pepper, and spices. Sew up the belly of your carp, and lard two squares on the back with very small pieces of bacon. Next lay the carp in a fish-pan with one half of your court-bouillon, and put it into the oven, but mind you baste it frequently with the marinade. When it is done, drain it, but take care you do not break it. Now dish it with la chambord (see Sauces) and its garnish. N? 5.- Matelotte de Carpe à la Royale. Take several carp, which cleanse as indi- cated NO 1. Then you cut them into thick slices. You first cut off the head, but never forget to take out the stone which is at the top of the spine, exactly about the neck, for it has a most obnoxious bitter taste. Next cut the remainder into three equal parts, (which in 297 France are called tronçons). Wash these well, then lay them on a clean towel to drain, and mark them in a stew-pan just large enough to contain the quantity of fish you wish to cook. As you are to boil the fish with wine only, if you were to take too large a vessel, it would require too much wine, which would be wasted. Powder a little salt over your fish. Pour only as much wine as is requisite just to cover the carp, and let it stew over a large fire. As soon as the wine boils, if it be good, or unadulterated, it will catch fire. Red wine of course is used. You then take your pan off from the fire, and leave it on the corner of the stove, and make a sauce in the following manner, Put a lump of butter into a stew-pan, accord- ing to the quantity of fish you have. At any rate a quarter of a pound will be enough. Then make a roux by mixing a little flour. When your roux begins to get brown, put in two large onions cut by quarters, and let them fry till they be entirely melted. Then moisten with some of the wine in which your fish has been stewing; add a large bunch of parsley and green onions seasoned with all-spice. Pick a pint of mushrooms, wash them well, tournez the finest which you throw into a little water and lemon- juice to keep them white. The parures are to 298 case be used for the improvement of the sauce, which skim off, let no grease remain, then drain it through a tainmy over your tronçons. You must have ready some small onions fried brown in butter, and stewed separately in a little broth; mushrooms likewise stewed separately. Then dish your tronçons with the head in the middle. You have provided some soft roes which you have stewed also separately in vinegar, that they may be quite firm; with these garnish your matelotte. Next you have a dozen of toasts made of rasped crust of bread, a few quenelles, craw-fish the same, and you dish your matelotte rather en dome. Let your sauce boil in a good Jump of butter kneaded with a little flour, then a beurre of six anchovics, and the juice of a Jemon. The sauce must be rather high sea- soned, and thick that it may mask well. The small onions and mushrooms are not to be omitted. : N: 6.-Matelotte de Carpe à la Marinière., AFTER having cleansed your fish as indicated N: 1, you put it into any vessel whatever that will stand a large brisk fire. Moisten with some red wine according to the quantity of the fish; put some small onions fried white in butter into your vessel, with salt, pepper, spices, a bunch 299 of parsley and green onions well seasoned. Let the whole buil till you see the fish be done, You have been handling some butter and flour, which you drop by small parts into your sauce, in order to thicken it. You have likewise some toasts, which you put round your dish in the sauce. Season it well, and serve up quite hot. NO 7.--Les petits Pâtés de farce de Carpe. See farces for the flesh, and patisserie for. the paste. These are only served in Roman Catholic families, on fast days. . EELS. NO 1.-La Matelotte d'Anguilles. TAKE one or two live eels. Throw them into the fire. As they whirl on all sides you lay bold of them with a towel in your hand, and skin them from head to tail. This method is the best as it is the means of drawing out all the oil, which is unpalatable. Cut your eels into tron- çons, without ripping the belly; then run your knife into the hollow part, and turn it round to take out the entrails. Wash them well, that no blood remain. Mark your tronçons in the like manner as those of carp. The eel is longer doing, yet the operation is the same. It will 300 frequently happen that a matelotte is made of all sorts of fish, such as carp, tench, pike, and eels. The carp is sooner done than any of the other mentioned fish, but they notwithstanding are always cooked together when they can be procured. N? 2.--Tronçons d'Anguilles à la Tartare. SKIN the eel as above, cut your tronçons longer, make a court-bouillon, or a marinade. Stew your tronçons in this marinade, and when they are done let them cool, then you brush them over first with yolks of eggs mixed with a little salt, and dip them into crumbs, then with butter, and strew over them crumbs of bread again. Broil them of a fine colour, or bake them, and serve them up with a sauce à la ré- moulade. (See Sauces.) N. 3.–Tronçons d'Anguilles à la Poulette. THERE are some people who will cook l'an- guille à la poulette, in the same manner as a fricassée de poulets; it is better however to stew it in a marinade, and then to make the sauce à la poulette, by taking some sauce tournée, which you reduce till it can take a thickening. Mix it with parsley chopped very fine, and small onions if approved of; but then they are to be 301 done separately and stewed in a little broth and salt. Drain them, and put them into the sauce after having thickened it. Let it be seasoned pretty high with salt, pepper, and the juice of a lemon. Let your cel continue in the sauce for ten minutes before you send your dinner up to table. If you should have no sauce tournée, make a little roux blanc (see Sauces), moisten with either water or broth, to which add a bunch of parsley and green onions, pepper, salt, and a small white onion. When your sauce has been boiling for an hour, that the flour may be well done, you take out the parsley and onions, skim your sauce, mix a little chopped parsley and the juice of a lemon with the thickening, and serve up hot. NO 4.-L'Anguille roulée au four. PREPARE your eel as above, but open the belly with a view of drawing out the intestines and the blood. Then roll it round, and fasten it with a skewer. Then bake it in a marinade, or a little court-bouillon. When it is of a brown colour glaze it, and serve under it an Italienne (see Sauces) with which you mix a good lump of butter, and a beurre d'anchois. (See Sauces.) K en maigre you only make anchovy sauce. 302 NO 5.-Tronçons d’Anguilles piqués et glacés. . This entrée never looks well, as the tronçons will not stand upright. Strip your eels, how- ever, as above, cut your tronçons of an equal size, and lard them. Next mark them in a stew-pan rubbed round with butter. Have ready a marinade, and moisten with a few spoon- fuls only. When your cel is done, you contrive to have your tronçons stand erect, and a glaze of a fine brown Send them up with a sauce aux capres, and aux anchois. PIKE. . N: 1.- Brochet à la Polonoise. You must scale and empty your pike, then cut it into tronçons, and wash them well, till there be no blood left. Mark in a stew-pan a lump of butter, some roots and stalks of parsley, an onion cut into slices, a few minced carrots, half of a bay-leaf, a little thyme. Stew the whole over a slow fire, that the vegetables may be done without getting brown. Then moisten with milk seasoned with salt, and let your roots stew. When your polonoise is done, drain it through a sieve over your tronçons, which are to be stewed in that moisture. When they are done, take some turnips cut into olives, which 303 stew also in the above seasoning. You next mark a haricot vierge (see Sauces) with the moisture, and make a roux blanc (see Sauces) with two ounces of butter, and two spoonfuls of flour. Moisten with your seasoning, and add to it a few mushrooms if you have any. Now reduce that sauce till it be thick enough to mask the fish; drain your turnips well to prevent their making your sauce liquid. Dish your 'tronçons, put a little sugar in the sauce; taste it to ascertain whether it be properly sea- soped and send up to table as white as possible. ... NO 2.-Brochet à la Genévoise. AFTER' having merely emptied and washed your pike, without scaling it, mark a marinade, with carrots, onions, parsley roots, thyme, bay- leaves, sweet bazil, cloves, and a few stalks of parsley. Stew all these in a little butter over a slow fire. When your roots are become tender, moisten them with Madeira wine, and let your marinade stew on. When it is done enough, drain it through a sieve over your pike, which you have taken care to lay in the straitest vessel you could procure, so as to use no more wine than is requisite for the sauce. Mind not to put much salt, as the moistening is used for the sauce. Wlren your pike is donė, drain it imme 304 diately that you may scrape off all the scales ont both sides. Then return it into the vessel wherein it has boiled, and pour in a little of the liquor to keep it warm, and from getting dry. Make a roux, but not too high in colour, which you moisten with the wine alone en maigre: but en gras you add two good spoonfuls of blond de veau (see Sauces) with some parures of mush- rooms, and a bunch of parsley and green onions. Let these stew till the sauce no longer smells of flour. Then drain it, and add to your sauce á good lump of butter kneaded with flour, a beurre d'anchois, and the juice of a lemon. N. B.-You must use white wine in preference to red, to make a difference besides from a matelotte. NO 3.-Brochet à la Hollandoise. Scale your pike, take off the gills, without opening the belly. You must empty it at the head. Make a farce with two handfuls of crumb of bread, and the same quantity of beef- suet. (En maigre you use butter instead of suet.) The yolks of two eggs, or two whole eggs, put a little milk, a large quantity of chopped parsley, a little thyme, salt and pepper, and shalots chopped very fine if approved of. Put the whole in the belly of your pike. Then 305 trim a plafond with layers of bacon that the pike may not burn and stick. Fasten the fish's tail in its mouth with a little skewer. Break a few eggs in an earthen-pan, with a little pepper and salt. Now brush your pike all over with the beaten eggs, and powder it over with crumbs of bread; then baste it all over with melted butter, and powder it with crumbs of bread again: baste it afresh with butter, and then bake it in the oven, till it be of a fine colour. Send it up to table on a cloth, and serve up separately la sauce Hollandoise. (See Sauces.) If you send up two pikes, let one be green, and the other yellow. The green one is obtained by mixing a large quantity of minced parsley with crumbs of bread, before you powder the fish over with them. . NO 4.-Brochet au four à la Françoise. PREPARE your pike as above, but instead of stuffing it with the aforesaid farce, stuff it with a farce à quenelles. Mind you bind the head which is liable to break. Take a little marinade as it is improper that pike should be overflowed with it, nay there will be quite enough if it reaches its middle. Baste it frequently with some of your moistening, that it may be made of a fine colour, which is not easily obtained, as' 306 you have not used crumbs of bread. When it is done, drain it. Take some of the marinade to mark a sauce au beurre, to this effect, put a good lump of butter, and a spoonful of flour in a stew-pan, moisten with the seasoning, but do not allow your sauce to boil. Add to this a beurre d'anchois, the juice of a lemon, and serve the sauce under the fish without masking. Yet if your pike were not of a fine colour, you should add some'fine capers to your sauce; and mask your fish over with the sauce. .. NO 5.- Brochet, sauce à Matelotte. Take a fine pike, empty it as indicated, NO 2. Stew it in a marinade au vinaigre, and mask it with the sauce à Matelotte, after having re- moved the scales as in N. 2. The sauce Mate. lotte is to be made with red wine. NO 6.- Filets de Brochet à la Maitre d'Hotel. Take up the fillets of a moderate size, divest thern of the skin, and cut them into equal pieces, that they may be dished nicely. Mark them in a sauté pan with some clarified butter, pepper, and salt. When just going to send them up to table, sautez them over a large fire, that they inay be white and firm, and turn them on the other side. When they are done dish them 307 en miroton, and serve them up with the maitre d'hôtel à poisson. (See Sauces.) ; NO 7.-- Filets de brochet à la Maréchale. Take up the fillets and skin them as above. Cut your fillets in the shape of cutlets, and powder a little salt and pepper over thení. Beat the yolks of two eggs in a pan, with which brush your fillets over, and strew crumbs of bread over them. Next dip them into melted butter, and into crumbs of bread, to give them a second coat. Make those crumbs quite level. Now broil your fillets over a slow but equal fire. Dish them en miroton, and send them up with a poivrade blanche. (See Sauces.) N! 8.–Filets de brochets à la Turque. Prepare your fillets as in No 6. Wash some rice quite clean, and blanch it. Make it swell soft in some good consommé. Let it be done • thoroughly, yet keep it thick, and season it well. Add a few spoonfuls of velouté, and a little thick cream, still preserving it thick and firm, that it may be dished in a pyramid or dome, in the centre of the dish, and the fillets all round. Mask the fillets, but not the ricer You may serve up either with la maître d'hôtel, or la ravigotte. (See Sauces.) X 2 308 N: 9.-Brochet à la Chambord. Exactly the same thing as carp, N: 4. PERCH. Perch is a fish that is held in high estimation, Its flesh is white and delicate; the perch is easily digested, and is particularly recommended to those invalids who have a weak debilitated stomach. N. 1.- Perch à la Waterfish. Empty your perch. Wash them well in seve- ral waters. Mark in a stew-pan a marinade blanche, composed of shreds of parsley and of parsley roots, of a few carrots, two or three green onions cut into fillets. Stew the whole in a little butter. When your roots begin to get soft, moisten with boiling water, salt, pep- per, &c. Let the whole stew well, then pour that marinade over your fish, which stew for about twenty minutes. Then drain and scale it nicely, preserving, however, the red fins. When your perch is quite clean, stick those red fins into the partition of the fillet, to shew what the fish is. Do not forget to bind the 'head before you stew the perch, as it is very liable to break, 309 T. NO 2,- Perches à l'Eau, or Water Souchet. EMPTY and wash your perch as above. Trim á stew-pan with parsley roots, a bunch of par- sley, a little salt, and a few grains of corn pepper, which you must count, that you may take every one out when your water has boiled for half an hour. Put your perch into the water, and boil them speedily that they may be more firm. Then take out the bunch of parsley ; and throw into the liquor some leaves of parsley that have been blanched very green. Serve up the fish in a deep bottomed dish, with the liquor and the roots, which must have been cut into fillets one line by ten ; together with slices of bread and butter on a plate. ! NO 3.—Perches à la Maitre d'Hotel, Let them be prepared and cooked as above. Mind that you must preserve the red fins, which you stick into the middle part, instead of retain- ing them in their natural place. After you have drained your fish, mask it with a maitre d'hôtel. (See Sauces.) NO 4.-Perches à l'Eau, sauce Hollandoise. AFTER having emptied your fish, scale them well and boil them, with water and salt for a quarter of an hour. Serve them up on a cloth X 3 310 with parsley, quite green all round, and send'úp separately the Dutch sauce. TENCH. Tench is a fish which real epicures think but very little of. Yet it is more admissible in a matelotte, than in any other way. However, it may be dressed either broiled, au court-bouil- lon, or farcie, the same in every respect as a carp. (See Carp.) NO 1.- Tanche frite. After having scaled and emptied your tench, split the back of the fish, but take care not to touch the belly, for if you did it would divide. Let it pickle for three hours in vinegar, salt, pepper, stalks of parsley, and onions. Then drain it and dip it into flour. Fry it of a fine colour and quite firm. The dripping must be very hot. This you try with a drop of water, which being thrown into the dripping, occasions a noise, if the former be in a proper state. Send it up to table on a cloth, and fried parsley all round, if you have a soft roç, fried likewise and send in the middle. . TROUT, AND SALMON TROUT.. Trout is never good unless it be caught in live * 311 water; indeed it is seldom to be found elsewhere, It is to be cooked, or dressed in the same man- ver as salmon, and proves, at any time nearly, better and more delicate. N: 1.-Truite au court-buillon. Empty your trout without making a great opening in the belly. Wash it well; wrap it up in a cloth, fasten both ends with a bit of pack- thread, and bind the middle, or body, but not too tight. Stew it then in a court-bouillon. (See court-bouillon.) When your trout is done, drain it, unfold the cloth, and send it up to table on another clean cloth, with green parsley all round. NO 2.—Truite à la Genévoise. AFTER having emptied your trout, you fasten the lead with packthread, and stew it (without having removed the scales) with the marinade. This is to be dressed exactly in the same manner as the pike, which see above; (see brochet à la Genévoise) only put a little more cloves witli your sauce, and make it with red wine instead of white. NO 3.-Filets de Truite à l'Aurore. Take up the filets of your trout with the x 4. 312 skin off. Parez them in the shape of hearts. Mark them in a sauté pan with clarified butter, salt, and pepper. Sautez them on a clear fire, turn them over, and when they are done, dish them en miroton, and mask them with the sauce à l'aurore. (See Sauces.) NO 4.- Truite saumonnée au four. Having emptied and scaled your trout, mark it in a circular shape, with its tail fixed in its mouth. Put your fish in a small quantity of marinade so that it be just covered. Baste it frequently, and let it be made of a fine colour. When it is done reduce one half of the liquor in which the trout has been stewing, have a good lump of fresh butter kneaded with flour, with a little beurre d'anchois (see Sauces), a few fine capers, salt and pepper, if the sauce is not suf- ficiently seasoned; but be cautious, when you use anchovies, not to put too much salt. Then squeeze the juice of a lemon, drain your fish, send it up to table, with your sauce under it, but without masking. NO 5.-Truites à l'Anglois. After having emptied, scaled, and washed your fish, have some boiling water ready, into which put the trout with a good handful of salt TER 313 only, but no vinegar, as it spoils the colourdf the fish. When it is done, drain it well, serve it up on a clean cloth, garnished with parsley. Send up the lobster sauce separately in a boat, or the Dutch sauce. LAMPREY. ALTHOUGH very few people be partial to this fish, some, however, like it en matelotte, which is to be cooked in a similar manner to the eel. You must notice, however, that the lamprey requires a very long time before it is done. Make a sauce à matelotte (see Sauces) wherein you let your fish simmer for an hour and a half, or two hours if the fish be of a large size. CRAW-FISH. Craw-fish is good only when it does not spawn, for then it is most shockingly bitter. Wash it well in several clear waters, till the water be quite limped and bright. Trim a stew- pan with a few slices of carrots, onions, roots and stalks of parsley, thyme, bay-leaves, two cloves, salt, pepper, vinegar, and water. Let the · whole stew for an hour, drain it through a sieve, and put the live craw-fish into the seasoning. Keep stirring them almost without interruption, that they may be done all alike, for twenty 314 minutės. Keep them in the seasoning till you want to send thern up to table. NO 2.-Ecrevisses à la Poulette. mor WHEN your craw-fish have been sent to table more than once, pick the lesser claws, cut the large ones by halves, beard them, pick the tail, put all these in a cloth, and shake it well that there be no water left. Then take two spoonfuls of velouté (see Sauces), a good lump of butter, pepper and salt, some chopped parsley, a little cavice, and the juice of a lemon. Sautez the craw-fish in that sauce, which must be thick, and send up to table quite hot. NO 3.-Bisque d'Ecrévisses. This is a potage which is only sent to table, but upon gala days, when you are obliged to make a frequent change of potages. Take the smallest craw-fish you can procure, and what quantity you may want. Five or six dozen at least are generally requisite. First pick all the tails. If you boil your fish on purpose for the present occasion, you must not put vinegar. Lay aside two dozen and a half of the finest tails, those that remain entire. The rest, with all the meat, and fleshy parts of the inside pound in a mortar with the flesh of the breasts of two fowls 316 be taken off. Mind to beard your fish, and that it be of a fine colour. Thus prepared you may use your craw-fish for either chambords, godards, matelottes, les fricassées, les pátés chauds, les aspics, &c. &c. There are many other sorts of fresh water- fish which seldom are sent to table, however, which are to be found in dormant waters, and which accordingly shall not be here mentioned. Those who fancy them, however, may either broil or fry them, as they would a carp. ALOZE, SHAD. This fish is held in high estimation in France, and especially in Paris. It must be scaled, emptied, and washed nicely. Next it is to be mariné in a little oil, with pepper and salt. It is proper that it should be slit, that the salt may penetrate. Broil it on both sides over a slow fire. It will be done in the course of half an hour. When it is done, let it be served with a sauce aux capres, or à l'oseille en maigre. (See Sauces.) 317 CHAP. XIV. SALT WATER FISH. TURBOT. A TURBOT of a middling size is preferable to any other. When very large the meat is tough and thready. It was customary in France, and the same must be done in every country, to empty the fish and to wash out all the blood. We besides made an eau de sel, by which must be understood that as we had no white salt, we used to boil some of our grey salt in water, then let the water rest and strain it, next to lay the turbot over a sheet of paper in the fish-kettle. We used also to prick the white side of our turbot with a needle à brider, to prevent the skin from breaking, and to facilitate the salt penetrating to the very bone. We likewise rubbed the surface with lemon, and would put a few slices of lemon into the water; we then wrapt up the fish into buttered white paper, and let it stew, without boiling. 319 but equal fire. Dish them en couronne, and pour over a poivrade blanche. (See Sauces.) NO 3.--Filets de Turbot à la Créme. This is an entrée de desserte. When your turbot is returned from table, immediately take up the fillets, and skin them, if you do not do it when hot, it will occasion a great waste to trim them when cold. The next day yoų scollop your fillets, as equal as possible. You have a sauce à la créme (sec Sauces) quite hot. Put your fillets into this sauce, keep them hot, and in due time send them up in a dish gar: nished with a bordure, or in a vol au vent, (See Patisserie.) N? 4.-Gratin de Filets de Turbot au Velouté. This is another entrée de desserte. Proceed as above NO 3. Cut a few slices of bread, one inch broad and two lines thick. Dip these into an omelette of one single egg. Stick them on. the border of your dish, which lay on the corner of a little stove. In proportion as you stick your bread, you turn the dish ; when you have completed your circle, you put a spoonful or two of vélouté, let it gratine into the centre of. the dish. Next take more of the same velouté, to which you add a good lump of butter, and mix 320 on the stove without boiling. Keep this sauce thick, pour into it a little thick cream ; season it well; put your scollops into the sauce, and the whole in the dish wherein you have gratiné the velouté. Now level your fillets with your knife, strew crumbs of bread over them equally ; heat a bored ladle, put a lump of butter into it, baste your scollops ; let them have another coat of crumbs of bread, baste them again, and let them get a good colour with the salamander. When your gratin has got a good colour, take off the slices of bread that you had previously stuck round the dish, to inake room for others that have been fried in butter of a fine colour. NO 5.-Vol au Vent d'Escalopes de Turbot, au bon Beurre. This is an excellent entrée de desserte. You have been particular in cleaning the fillets of your turbot when returned from table as indic cated N. 3. You cut them into scollops, and put them into a stew-pan, well covered, to pre- vent their getting dry. With regard to the sauce, take six spoonfuls of sauce tournée (see Sauces) which reduce with two spoonfuls of consommé. When the sauce is reduced, thicken it with the yolks of two eggs, and refine your sauce with at least a quarter of a pound of the 301 Best Batter. If you should have any thick cream, pat itt a little, as it will make your sáuce more mellow. Now season well, put your scollops with the sauce, keep them hot, and send up the whole to table in a vol au vent. (See vol au vent.) N: 6.--Petites Timballes de Filets de Turbot, a la Vénitiennė. Tüis is another entrée de dessertė, held in lligh estimation. It requires but very little meat of the fishi to be made. You cut whatever is left of the turbot into dice, a's small as possible. As for the sauce, take three spoonfuls of hot béchia- melle, to which add a good lump of butter, sålt, white fine pepper, a little parsley chopped very fine, and well squeezed in a towel, that it may not give a green colour to your sauce. Then put a little cavice (that of Mackay's at any rate) which is the composition which agrees the best with alf fish sauces. Keep' stirring your sauce, which is generally called working it. We likewise calt vanner, taking the sauce into the ladle, and pouring it perpendicularly into the stew-pan, and repeating the operation frequently and with great expedition, to make your sauce transparent. When it is mellow, and of a good taste, týrow in your smart dice of turbot, keep them hot, and when ready to send up to táble 322 garnish your little timballes with the turbot. Let them lay for a moment in the oven, and serve them up hot. (See Timballes.) NO 7.—Turbotin grillé, Sauce aux Capres. After having emptied and washed your fish clean, make an incision in the back, down to the bone ; then wipe it quite dry ; next lay it in a dish to marinate in salt, pepper, and sweet oil. Half an hour, or even three-quarters of an hour before dinner time, broil your fish over a slow fire. It is requisite to lay some straw on the gridiron, to prevent its making black streaks on the turbot, which broil on both sides, and serve up with la sauce aux capres. (See Sauces.) BARBUE. This is a very delicate, and very luscious cating when broiled with sauce aux capres. It is to be cooked exactly in the same manner as the turbotin, N. 7. It is also eat à l'eau de sel, sauce au homard (see Turbot, N. 1), and in fillets à la Maréchalle. (See Turbot, N. 2.) . SOUCO SAINT-PIERRE. John Dorie is a fish of hideous aspect, but the meat of which is very delicate. Cook it in the same manner, as the turbot; and when 323 broiled send it up with sauce aux capres, or aux anchois. SALMON. Salmon from the Thames is the most esteemed, and sold accordingly. Salmon is served indis- criminately as poisson, entrée, entremets, and rot (en maigre). Crimp salmon fetches the highest price, and is the only one introduced at the table of a true connoisseur. N? 1.-Dalles de Saumon, sauce au Homard. It is to be observed that fish, according to the English way, is always boiled à l'eau de sel, Some sorts of fish require a little vinegar, salmon does not, it spoils its colour. Dalles are done within a quarter of an hour. You put your fish into some boiling water, with plenty of salt. Let it boil very fast which makes it more firm. As soon as it is done, drain it, for if you were to leave it in the water it would lose both its savour and colour. If it is not time yet to send it up, leave it over the water on the sheet, and dip it into the water when called for. Serve it on a clean cloth, garnished with crisp green parsley. (See Sauce au homard.) Y 2 324 N. 2.-Dalles de Saumon, grillées, sauce aus Capres. MARINATE your slices of salmon in a little olive oil, with salt and pepper. Three-quarters of an hour before you send it up, broil them on a very, slow fire, and turn them on both sidesa When your salmon is done, take off the skin, drain it on a clean towel to draw out all the oil.. Dish it, and mask, it with lg, sauce aut capres, Let it be understood that your gridiron has been put in a slope, with a plafond under the fore-feet to receive the oil, which, if it felt into the fire would spoil the fish, and all the kitchen with smoak and steneh, NO 3.-Saumon au court-bouillon. SALMON is seldom eaten au court-bouillon in England, for which, country this work, is chiefly intended. You may see (carpe,, N3). in wbat manner court-bouillon is prepared. Many noble- men and gentlemen have carp on their estates, which they may eat cooked in this way; but as they must buy the salmon, they prefer eating it with lobster or anchovy sąuce. NO 4.-Côtelettes de Saumon sautées à la Maitre ‘d'Hótel. Cut some slices of salmon in the shape of SOMO 325 chops. Mark them in a sauté pan with some clarified butter, pepper, and salt, and sautez or toss them, when dinner time is come, over an cqual fire. Drain the butter well, and dish your slices of salmon en couronne. Send up with la maitre d'hôtel. (See Sauces.) NO 5.-Salade de Saumon. This is an entremets which is recurred to from economical principles, when there is any salmon left. Let it cool, cut it nicely into hearts, or square lozenges. These decorate with fillets of anchovies, pickled cucumbers, fine capers, and chopped eggs, to which you add a few hearts of lettuce. Then use la rémoulade. (See Sauces.) If you should have some jelly, make a kind of mayonaise. Take a few spoonfuls of oil, with an equal quantity of jelly seasoned with pepper, salt, and chopped ravigotte. Beat all these over the ice, till they be of a white colour, and decorate your sallad with this mayonaise, and a few lumps of jelly. Beware not to make any of those decorations that will tumble down. A plain good sallad is eat in preference to any · other. Grand decorations are intended to orna- ment the centre of the table, whereas what is to : be eat must be plain and good. Avoid above all things introducing artificial colours. Nature has ? 3 326 supplied you with nasturtium, red and white beet-root, beans of two colours, white and green; with chervil, tarragon, pimpernel, &c. besides you have white or yellow omelettes. Never put any fish in a sallad of fowl, for if the fowl tastes of fish, what will you have your sallads maigres taste of? In summer time you have asparagus, artichoke. bottoms, cauliflowers, &c. Salmon is also cooked in different other ways, which ought not to be done. This fish being oily, will not admit of those many metamorphosis. I have seen salmon-pies sent to table, petty patties, and scollops of salmon in paper cases, croquetie ditto, and bonne morue, all which entrées are good for nothing, and the best proof of the truth of this assertion, is, that no one will ever taste them. If, notwithstanding you would wish to try, the process is the same as for dres- sing turbot or haddock. However, if you will follow my advice, you will never attempt any other entrées than those herein described. NO 6.-Saumon à la Genevoise. You must scale, empty, and wash your sal- mon clean. Then follow the method indicated. (Brochet, N. 2.) The sauce is exactly the Same . 328 make a marinade with carrots, parsley, onions, roots of parsley, butter, spices, &. Stew all these over a slow fire. Moisten with a bottle of white Madeira, and let the marinade slew well. When it is done, drain it through a sieve, and use it to baste your fish whilst roasting. Let it get a fine colour: for this purpose take a little Espagnole, or sauce tournée, (see Sauces) which ſeduce with part of the marinade, and drain al} the grease. Now have a beurre d'aạchais, and if your sauce bę pot thick enough to mask with, add to it some butter and four kneaded together, and at any rate a good lump of butter, and the juice of a lemon. Thiş sauce must be high seas soned : use it to mask your figh . N. 2.- Esturgeon au four. The same process as above. Make a maringde which pour pụt into a vessel large enough to fontain your fish, which cover with byttered paper, to prevent its getting too high a colour. Baste frequently with the marinadę. When your sturgeon is done, have your sauce made as above, and use it to mask your fish. N. .—Esturgeon à la Ude. Boil your sturgeon in an eau de sel. When it is done maşk it with the following sayce. T. 329 Reduce in a small stew par four spoonfuls of elder vinegar. When it is half reduced, you put in six spoonfuls, or rather a quantity propóre tionate to the size of the fish, of velouté, half spoonful of cavice, a very large lump of butter, with salt and pepper, . Work this sauce wells drain your fish, and mask it with the sauce. In order to keep it thick and white, mix with it a little thick cream. NO 4,-Blanquette d'Esturgeon à la Paysanne, When you have some roasted sturgeon re turned, you must mind to keep it to make a blanquette. Parex some round pieces nicely, and put them into a sauce à blanquette, to which you add a little chopped parsley, and the juice of a lemon. This blanquette is sent to table like all others in a vol ay, vent, or a casse- role au ris. · NO 5.- Blanquette d'Esturgeon aux Pois. If you have any sturgeon left, and that it be very fresh, make a blanquette qui pois, which not requiring to be high seasoned will admit only of fish extremely sweet. (See Sauces.) “ N. 6.- Croquettes d'Esturgeon. STURGEON is a fish absolutely resembling veal; 330 when fresh it is as white as the finest veal. If it be red, there is nothing to be done with it. If, when there is any returned, you should find it very white, and that there should not be a sufficient quantity to make a croquette, make small timballes (see Pastry), cut the sturgeon into dice, and put them into a sauce similar to that indicated above. (N: 6.-Timballes de Turbot.) After having cut enough fish into dice to make your croquettes, take a velouté reduced and some mushrooms cut into dice, to which add a small Jump of butter, salt, &c. and lay your fish in that sauce. Let them cool, and then dip them into crumbs of bread as prescribed for other croquettes. Serve some fried parsley in the centre of the dish. COD. CABILLEAU. N! 1.-Morue fraiche, dite Cabilleau à la sauce aux Huitres. After having emptied your cod, you must open the white skin of the belly, and wash it carefully all along the bone, that there be no blood at all left. Mind that your fish be abso- lutely white. Then lay it in a fish plate with l'eau de sel. Do not boil it too long, for it would become soft. When done drain it and 331 send it up on a clean cloth, garnished with para sley. The sauce aux huttres (see Sauces) to be sent up in a boat. NO 2.—Cabilleau à la Créme. PREPARE and boil your cod as above. But after having drained it, take the skin off, and mask the fish with sauce à la crême. (See Sauces.) NO 3.-Escalopes de Cabilleau en bonne Morue. This is an entrée de desserte. If you have any cod left, take up the scollops, by which is meant that you take off all the skin and the bones. You have a sauce à la crême, en maigre (in Lent, or on a fast day), and en gras, you take three spoonfuls of béchamelle, a good lunip of butter, and work that sauce over your stove, and season it with pepper and salt. When your sauce is well mixed with the butter, you put in your scollops ; stir them well that the sauce may be imbibed all round the fish. Let the fish stand a moment till it be cold, then make a bord de plat with slices of bread fried in butter. Dish your scollops, level thein smooth with your knife, dust them over with crumbs of bread, baste them with butter; repeat both these operations, use the salamander to give your fish a colour, 333 Se in general. Let it be done in a large vessely that it may be at ease, but do not let it boil. The moment it is beginning to boil, take it off from the fire, and keep it in the water well covered ;, it then will be tender, but if it should boil it will be tough and thready. Mark a maitre d'hôtel with a good lump of butter, a spoonful of flour, four or five spoonfuls of water, and a little salt. Now taste your fish, and if required put a little more salt and pepper. Then put it on the fire again, without allowing it to boil. When your sauce begins to thicken, work it well that it may be more mellow. Have some parsley chopped very fine, mix a pinch of it with a little glaze and the juice of a lemon. Then taste your sauce. If it be too brown, put in a little thick: cream, which will at once make it white, and more mellow. Take off the skin andi bones of your fish, and put it into the sauce, shaking it gently, for fear of breaking it. Send, it up either in a vol au vent, or in a deep disha with croutons de feuilletage. NO 2.-Morue, salée à la Provençale. AFTER having drawn out the salt, and done your fish as above, you pound two or three heads of garlick, which you throw into a stew pan with two spoonfuls of oil, a lump of butter, 334 2 . some salt, and whole pepper. Then keep shak- ing the stew-pan with its contents. Put in your salt cod quite hot, and keep shaking till the whole be well mixed together. If you should find that it be not liquid enough, add a little oil. and a spoonful of velouté. Such entrées require being high seasoned, and will induce your guests to send the bottle round freely. NO 3.-Morue salée à la Créme. The same process as above. (See N. 4, Ca- billeau.) You may send it up to table in a vol au vent, or a bord de plat panné, &c. N? 4.-Morue salée à la bonne Femme. This is the same thing nearly as in NO 1. Only you boil some potatoes, let them stand till they be cold ; turn them into corks, and then cut them into round slices much about the size of half-a-crown piece, which serve with the morue à la maître d'hôtel. Taste and season well. Nº 5.-Morue salée à la Lyonaise. The same manner for ever of dressing salt fish. Cut some onions into dice, which you fry in butter till they be very brown. Dust them over with a little flour. Moisten with broth, 'if 335 sauce en gras; and if en maigre, with bouillon de poisson, or sweating. Let the onions be well done ; drain them well, and season them the same. Now mix a good lump of butter, put your fish into the sauce and serve up quite hot. N: 6.—Morue salée à l'Angloise. Draw out the salt, as above, in the French way. Have some parsneps well done, which you dish round your fish. Boil a few eggs hard, chop them, and throw them into a sauce au beurre, which send up in a boat. WHITINGS. NO 1.-Merlans pannés, grillés. EMPTY your whitings, scale them, but mind your preserve the liver, which is very delicate." When you have washed and wiped them clean, slit the back on both sides. Break and beat the yolk of an egg with a little salt and pepper. Now take a brush, and rub your whiting over with this omelette. Then dip your fish into crumbs of bread, next into melted butter, and crumbs of bread again. Broil it of a fine colour, and serve it up. The sauce is to be sent up... separately in a boat, whether it be a mattre, d'hôtel, a beurre d'anchois, a sauce blanche, &c. ? 336 &c. If you were to poor the sauce over the fish, your whiting would not prove palatable and the sauce will get too thick. NO 2.–Filets de Merlans à la Orlie. After having scaled, emptied, and washed your whitings, take up the fillets. Parez them nicely on both sides, without damaging the skin. Cut each fillet, and the remainder into equal pieces, and put them into an earthen-par with a few stalks of parsley, a few shalots, also shred, salt, pepper, and the juice of a femon. Keep stirring the whole in the lemon-juice. Let it marinade for about three hours. You then drain your fillets on a clean towel. Now beat the whites of two eggs, so that they may stick to the fillets. Mix some crumbs of bread and flour, dip your fillets into the whites of egys, the crumbs of bread and flour, and fry the whole when wanted only, in very hot dripping, that it may be served up hot, with a poitrade blancher (See Sauces:) NO 3.-Quenelles de Merlans: The same process as for other quenelles. The mixtures are the same. You may make a vast number of entrées' with quenelles' of whitings, such as quenetles de l'Allemande in a vot du vent, 337 a casserole au ris, and boudins which you have poached and made cold. Brush them over with an omelette and crumbs of bread, and fry them. Serve under an Italienne rafinée with a good lump of butter, &c. NO 4.-Boudins de Merlan à la Ude. MAKE a farce à quenelles, as for other que- melles. Take the eggs of a lobster, which pound well, and strain through a sieve with a little butter. Mix well the whole with your farce à quenelles. Then mould two boudins of the diameter of your dish, if it be a round one, of the same length if it be not. Poach them. When they are done, drain them on a clean towel, let them stand to cool that they may become firm. You then have the tail of a very red lob- ster, which you have preserved very red, scollop the tail in several pieces. · Now slit the boudins and introduce those pieces of lobster, the very same as if you were making a conti, observing to put the red part upward. When your boudins are equally decorated, lay them in a dish, which you cover, and lay them for a moment in the hot closet in order to keep the boudins hot. With respect to the sauce, take two spoonfuls of sauce tournée, which reduce with an equal quantity of consommé, and a thickening of two yolks of eggs. same 338 Work your sauce with half a quarter of a pound of butter, well seasoned with very little pepper, salt, and a little lemon-juice. Keep your sauce rather liquid, in order to mask the intervals between the boudins, and the contis of lobster. If you will pay any attention to the making of this entrée, besides a very pleasing appearance, it will be found a relish. N: 5.-Filets de Merlans à la Maitre d'Hótel. TAKE up the fillets of four whitings, after having washed them clean. Cut each fillet in 'two, brush them with yolks of eggs, seasoned with pepper and salt, and next with : melted butter. Broil them of a fine brown, dish them en miroton, and mask them with the maitre d'hôtel. N. B.-Fillets of whitings never answer when sautés, as they have not substance enough, and, altogether, I do not approve of their being dressed in that style. N: 6.- Paupiettes de Filets de Merlan. Take up the Alllets of your whitings, and parez them equally. Spread some farce à quenelles over the white side; then roll your fillets. Erect a small dome with some of the same farce, in the dish you mean to send up your fish in. Lay one row of fillets round the dish. Put farce enough to support tlie second middle row, and ne mean 339 RON finally put one or three fillets in the centre of the dish, according to the room that is left. Powder over with a little salt, then cover your fish with buttered paper, that your fillets may be baked without getting dry. They will be done in the course of twenty minutes. Then take them out from the oven, and wipe the dish clean. Put a good lump of butter into an Italienne, with a little beurre d'anchois, work your sauce, season it well, and mask your fillets with the sauce. En maigre you only use a maitre d'hôtel maigre. (See Sauces.) NO 7.—Merlans entiers au gratin. AFTER having scaled, ernptied, and washed your whitings, you wipe them clean. Mind not to lose the liver. Take a silver dish if you have one, if not a baking-pan. Rub the bottom over with butter, dust over with parsley and mush- rooms chopped very fine, over which lay your whitings. Then take some rasps of bread, that are not burnt, and powder them over your whit- ings, with a little pepper, salt, and nutmeg ; then again dust them over with sweet herbs ; namely, parsley and mushrooms chopped very fine. (If shalots are approved of you may add some.). Next lay small lumps of butter on your whitings, and pour over them a glass or two of z 2 340 white wine, and bake them in a hot oven. They will be done within a quarter of an hour, or twenty minutes, according to their size. Serve them up with the juice of a lemon, and no other sauce. This is a very palatable dish, but common. N: 8.—Merlans frits. ACCORDING to the French fashion we do not flay the whitings ; we only slit, and then fry them in very hot dripping, and serve them with- out any sauce. In England you take off the skin, and fasten the tail in the mouth ; and dip them into an omelette, then in a little flour and crumbs of bread. You fry them of a fine colour, and serve them up on a cloth, garnished with parsley, and send the shrimp sauce in a boat. SOLLES. N: 1,-Solles au Water Suchet. Take some very fresh soles ; scale the white side, and skin the black one. Empty all the intestines and wash your fish in several waters. When they are quite clean, boil them in a water suchet, which is made as follows. Take some roots of parsley, which cut into slices as for a julienne, about one line thick and 341 one inch long. Put these roots into some water with a bunch of parsley, green onions, thyme, bay-leaf, and a little salt, and let them stew for- an hour. Then stew your soles. When they are done, have ready some leaves of parsley, (without stalks) which have boiled separately in salt and water. Drain your soles, that the par- sley-roots, cut into slices above-mentioned may stick. You then put your soles into a tureen, or a deep dish, with some of the liquor in which they have been stewed, and which you drain through a silk sieve. Throw in the roots of parsley and the leaves, and send up your potage without any bread in it; but in a separate plate, send up a few slices of rye-bread and butter. This must be salt like sea water. Perch may be dressed in this manner also, NO 2.- Paupiette de Filets de Solles. See paupiette de filets de merlans. The farce must be made of carp, or of whiting. The meat of soles not blending with other ingredients. You may retain the skin on your soles, provided you scrape them well. You dish alternately a white fillet and a black one, so that they look þetter. The same sauce as for the whitings, z 3 342 - NO 3.-Filets de Solles sautés à la Ravigotte. FIRST scale your soles, and wash them, but do not empty. them. Take up the fillets; by running your knife between the skin and the 'fillet, and leaning pretty hard on the table, you are sure they come off very neat. Cut them in two. Mark them in a sauté pan with some clarified butter, and dust them over with pepper and salt. When dinner time is come, sautez them over a very brisk fire, turn them over, and then drain them on a sheet of white paper. Dish them either en couronne, or er miroton Cover them, and keep them hot. Do not forget to drain the water issued from your fillets before you pour your sauce over them. (See Sauces, ravigotte à la créme.) N? 4.-Filets de Solles à la Orlie. The same process, and the same sauce as above. (Sce filets de mırlans, N? 2.) N? 5.-Timballes de Filets de Solles à la Véni- tienne. WHEN you have served soles, either fried, or boiled, you must preserve a sufficient quantity to make an entrée on the following day. Parex well the skin, củ' the meat into small square fillets first, and then into small dice. Take two 343 spoonfuls of béchamelle, which mix with a lump of very fresh butter; add to it a little parsley cliopped very fine, a tea-spoonful of cavice (from Mackay's), half a tea-spoonful of elder vinegar. Keep the whole hot, without boiling. Put your small dice of fish into this sauce, season it with pepper and salt; fill the little timballes, and serve up quite hot. NO 6.-Vol au Vent de Filets de Solles à la Créme. This is another entrée de desserte. Parcz the skin; cut your soles into round pieces of the size of about half-a-crown. Then en maigre, have a sauce à la créme, and en gras, take four spoonfuls of béchamelle, mixed with a good lump of butter, a little salt and pepper. Let your sauce be made hot without boiling, put your soles into the sauce, and the whole fish and all into the vol au vent. The sauce must be kept rather thick. NO 7.-Filets de Solles à l'Aurore. Take up the fillets of four soles ; skin them on both sides. Now that you have ready a farce à quenelles, made of whitings, introduce the eggs of lobsters, to make it look reddish. Spread! this farce over each fillet, then roll them in th % 4 344 11 same manner as the paupiettes. Then skewer them with silver skewers, three to each skewer ; dust a little pepper and salt over your fillets. Season the farce rather high. Lay your skewer- ed fillets in a baking-pan, cover them with layers of bacon, and bake them. When they are done, take off the skewers. parez the farce that has over-reached, and dish them neatly. With that part of pounded lobsters'-eggs, which you have kept aside, mix two spoonfuls of sauce tournée, void of grease, with a good lump of fresh butter; drain the whole through a tammy, in order that your sauce be thin. Add to it a little beurre d'anchois, with pepper, salt, and lemon-juice. Keep your sauce hot, and mask your fillets. N! 8.- Solles à la Miromesnil. Take three soles, which scale on both sides, and empty them nicely without too much affect- ing the flesh. Make an incision on the black side. Fry them without dipping them into flour. When they are done, drain them on a clean cloth; open the place where you have already made a cut; cut the bone near the head and the tail, and draw it out. Let your fish cool. Make a maitre d'hotel cold, that is to say, mix a lump of butter with some parsley chopped very fine, pepper, salt, and the juice of a lemon. 345 Divide that butter into three equal parts, and put each inside of the opening of the soles, close the opening, and make the whole stick by means of the yolk of an egg, put a few crumbs of bread at the joint. Then dip your soles into an omelette of two eggs, and next into crumbs of bread, equally on all sides. When dinner time is come, fry your soles in hot dripping. They are done as soon as they have got a colour. The sauce is found in the sole itself. This is what we call in France an entrée bourgeoise. NO 9.- Aspic et Salade de Filets de Solles. It is occasionally requisite to dress soles on purpose to make either aspics, or a sallad ; in which case it is better to fry them with the skin, than to take up the fillets and to sautez them. When they are fried the fillets come off neater, and without any scum. If, however, you have sent up to table an entrée, or a dish of fillets of soles, that has been returned untouched, you may make a salade with them. Parez your fillets nicely. Contrive always to procure some green sallad, of any sort, to dish them with. Nature will always supply you with agreeable colours, without your ever painting whatever is intended to be eat. I like to see a bed of fresh sallad, or of mustard seed, on a dish. Then. 346 dish your fillets en miroton; ornament them with beet-root, nasturtium, small white onions stewed, chervil, pickled cucumbers, red turnip- Tedishes; but above all things, take care not to lose time in ornamenting your salades, and that the sauce be not poured over the decoration, (The sauce for a sallad is to be found at the article of sauces froides, or crues.) The aspic de filets de solles, is hardly admissible except at balls, when the multiplicity of dishes may require their being introduced; but in general it is but a very indifferent article. (See Sauces aspic.) First brush the mould all over with oil, put a little aspic in a mould to acquire a sub- stance; when the aspic is chilled, do whatever your skill and ingenuity may suggest. This work is only a theoretical treatise, wherein it is impossible to detail what relates to taste alone. Use a little liquid to stick what you have deco- rated. When you have completed this, put it in the ice. When become a solid substance, put a little aspic, which let get into jelly. Then place your fillets; stick them together before you fill the moull; when they are quite solid, fill the mould, and when the contents are be- come solid also, rub the mould outside, with a towel dipped into hot water, that it may empty and turn neater. те 347 NO 10.-Croquettes de Fillets de Solles. SEVERAL books mention croquettes de saumon, croquettes de morue, which, indeed, are not eatable. Sturgeon and soles are the only two sorts of fish, that have a sufficient firmness to allow their being made into croquettes. The more a fish is presented to the fire, the more its taste becomes unpalatable. With regard to the croquettes of soles, reduce your 'sauce, throw your small dice into the sauce, season them well, and put the whole preparation in the ice. When cold, cut them into equal parts on a dish. Roll them either round, or oval, but never into pears; dip them into an omelette of three eggs, two whites of which you have laid aside, with a little salt, and then into crumbs of bread. Dip them once only into the omelette fried, and serve them up with crisp fried green parsley. En maigre you make a sauce à la créme rather thick. En gras, take some velouté well re- duced, a little butter, pepper, and salt, and do as indicated above to the other croquettes. N? 11.–Filets de Solles à la Turque. Take off and sautez the fillets as indicated (Entrées de Solles). You have some rice swelled, and made soft in good consommé; mix it with a few spoonfuls of good velouté, to put in the middle of the dish: this rice must be thick, in 318 order that it may be dished in a pyramid. To mask the soles, take three spoonfuls of velouté, a good lump of butter, a tea-spoonful of cavice, a little salt and pepper. Work this sauce well, and mask the fillets only. The rice is to form the centre of the turban, as implied by the title. HARENGS-FRAIS. • HERRINGS are an excellent fish ; but the flesh is so delicate that no cook attempts to dress them otherwise than broiled or fried. Those with soft roes are the most delicate. You know them to be very fresh when the eyes are very red, and the scales shine bright. You must broil thein over a brisk fire, but never wash them. You must empty and scale them carefully, cut off a small piece of the tail, and of the head. Send them to table with the sauce à la moutarde. (See Sauces.) NO 1.-Laitances de Harengs en caisse. Your herrings must be very fresh. Have a paper case, either round or square ; spread some butter at the bottom; then open the number of herrings you think proper, and put the soft roes into the case, without breaking them. Dust them over with a little pepper, salt, rasped bread, parsley chopped very fine, and put a few es 351 NO 3.-Filets de Maquereaux à la Ste. Menehoult. Take the fillets of three mackarel, cut your fillets into two. Parez them equally, season them with pepper and salt; then take the yolks of two eggs, beat them well and rub your fillets over with the brush : dip them first into crumbs of bread, next into melted butter, and then into crumbs of bread again. Broil them of a fine colour, and serve them up en miroton without being masked with la maître d'hôtel. N? 4.–Filets de Maquereaux sautés à la Maitre d'Hótel. Take the fillets of three mackarel, cut them in two, mark them in a sauté pan with some clarified butter, salt, and pepper. At dinner time sautez them on both sides. When they are done, drain, dish, and mask them with la maitre d'hôtel. N. 5.- Filets de Maquereaux à la Ravigotte. Sautez them as those above. For la rarigotte à la créme. (See Sauces.) N. 6.-Timballe de Laitaitces de Maquereaux à : la Sefton. Take the soft roes of four large mackarel. Do not wash the fish, for the roes then would 352 turn black and soft. Mark your soft roes in clariñed butter, without any salt; cover them with the butter, and either bake them in the oven, or let thein sweat on a stove. Take care not to break them. When they are done lay then on a sheet of white paper to drain : dust a Jirile salt over them, cut them into small dice as heat is possible. Put these in the petits prilés, which keep hot, and make the following sauce, which is also to be put into the petits pdiés. Take two spoonfuls of velouté, and one spoonful of consommé, which reduce. When your sauce gets thick, add to it a good lump of butter with some pepper and salt. Refine your sauce with some thick cream. Keep the sauce hot, fill the pátés wherein are the soft roes, and let the sauce be liquid enough to penetrate the soft roes. Of all things send up quite hot. This entrée is much esteemed by the daintiest epicures. N. B. If you have a grand dinner, four mackarel will make two entrées without any connoisseur having occasion to find fault, as they will both differ in taste as well as in ap- pearance, VIVE GRILLÉE. SEA-DRAGON, SEA-DRAGON is a fish that is seldom eat in England, although in France it is frequently 353 Bent up to table. Towards the gill there is a most venomous bone. We always broil it, and serve it up with a beurre d'anchois. or a maitre d'hôtel. ANCHOIS. Anchovies are a salt fish that are of great ser- viee, and of frequent use in cooking. Essence of anchovics is a thing wbich a skilful cook must never use. Make a beurre d'anchois yourself. For a dozen of anchovies, a quarter of a pound of butter will do. First wash your anchovies, so that no lime whatever remains. Take off the bones and fins. Pound the meat with the fresh butter, When well pounded rub the whole through a hair sieve, and secure it in a gallipot well covered. Use your beurre d'anchois when wanted, for either canapés, sallads, or fish sauce: anchovies are very seldom used with meat. . EPERLANS. SMELTS are most generally fried. In the French way after having wiped them clean, we skewered them in a row, through the eyes, dipped them into flour and fried them in oil. In England they are dipped into an omelette and crumbs of bread mixed with four. They take a fine colour. Send them up with fried 2 A 354 parsley round them. If you choose to do it yod may boil them in 'eau de sel, like any other fish, and send them up to table with shrimp sauce in a boat. RAIE N! 1.--Rate aux Capres. Srew your skate in a marinade, that is to say, in à vessel with water, vinegar, salt, pepper, å sliced onion, parsley, green onions, bay-leaves, and 'thy'me. When it is done, pick it neat, remove it to another clean vessel, pour over it some of the liquor in which it has been boiling, then drain it and send it úp tò table, either entire, or in pieces with la sauce dúr capres; or in hearts, mtasked with the sauce aux capres. N. 2.-Raie au Beurre noir. Fry 'some parsley very green. Dish your skate according to your fancy. For an entrée you must either cut it into hearts, or rounds. Put the fried parsley in the middle of the dish and the beurre noir under the fish. NO 3.- Raie à l'Angloise. TAKE'off the skin. Boil it in l'eau de sel, and send it up on a clean cloth with shrimp săuce, or la sauce au beurre d'anchois in a boat. 355 ; N4.-Petites Raies fritées. When your skates are very small, you pickle them in vinegar, salt, pepper, a sliced onion, some parsley, and lemon-juice. You next drain them and dip them into flour. Next fry them in rather hot dripping and send them up either with or without sauce. - MIROTON DE CARLETS A L'ITALIENNE. Cur each flounder in two and take out all the bones. Butter a dish d'entrée and dish your founders en miroton ; dust them over with salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, chopped mushrooms, parsley, green onions, and raspings ; to which add a little butter. Then bake them. When they are done drain the butter and send them up with an Italienne en gras, and caper sauce en maigre. LIMANDE. See founders. Plaice can only be fried or made en miroton. HOMARD. LOBSTERS are boiled in the same manner as craw-fish, but would have a better savour, if it were possible to procure sea water to boil them in. Several ragoúts are made of lobsters. Pátés 2 A 2 358 muscle into the liquor that has issued from them, in order to wash off the sand. When they have all been picked, let the liquor stand, drain it, pour it into a clean vessel, and then make the following sauce. Put a small lump of butter with a spoonful of flour in a stew-pan, and make a little roux blanc; that is to say, do not let the flour get brown; moisten with the above-mentioned liquor, add a small bunch of parsley and green onions and stew them for half an hour. Then take the bunch out, and replace it with a little parsley chopped very fine. Now take the yolks of two or four eggs, according to the quantity of your muscles, to thicken your sauce, which season well, but be rather sparing of salt. Mix your muscles with the sauce; let them be just hot through and squeeze the juice of a lemon into the sauce, which inust be thick, the better to adhere to the muscles. CRABS * ARE prepared and cooked in the same manner as lobsters, but are eaten with oil and vinegar, after having arranged the meat in fillets, and the small claws all round. 359 HUÎTRÆS, N; 1,-Escalopes d'Huitres vertes, The English green qysters are the best that are known, After having opened them, stew them in their own liquor, but do not let them be too much done. Next beard them and return them into the liquor, from which you take them out with a bored ladle. Let the liquor stand and drain it, Make a little roux blane, moisten with the liquor, and when your sauce is got pretty thick, add a spoonful or two of cream, a spoonful of béchamelle, put your oysters into this sauce, and season them with salt and pepper, Next dish them, strew them over twice with butter and crumbs of bread; give them a good colour with the salamander, and serve them up with the juice of a lemon. You may grate a little nutmeg over them if you like it; but never omit parsley chopped very fine. Some people will add mushrooms, which ought not to be done. . NO 2.--Petits Pâtés d'Huitres à la Sefton. · Pick out the smallest oysters possible, stew and beard them as above. Make the sauce also in the same manner, only add to it a little par. sley chopped very fine, and a little pepper and salt, if any wanted. Have some little bouchées 2 A 4 360 en feuilletage ready ; fill the petits pátés with oysters and as much sauce as they will hold, Take some crumbs of bread fried of a fine colour, strew some over your petits pátés, which dish en buisson. Serve them up very hot. NO 3.- Petits Pâtés d'Huitres à la Françoise, AFTER having stewed your oysters, beard them, and cut them into dice. You have some mushrooms also cut into dice, which you fry in a little butter dusted over with flour. Moisten with some of the liquor of your oysters, one or two spoonfuls of bon consommé, two spoonfuls of cream, and reduce this sauce. Add a small Jump of butter; season well; throw the oysters into the sauce, and fill the petits patés, which must be in moulds à daziolles, otherwise called timballes. NO 4.-Sauce aux Huitres pour le Poisson, STEW your oysters as indicated above. Beard them, make a petit roux, moisten with some of the liquor and a little cream. When your sauce has been boiling for about ten minutes, add a beurre d'anchois. Taste the sauce before you put in any salt, and very little pepper, 361 Throw the oysters into the sauce and serve up hot. If you should be in a hurry, mark in a stew- pan a good lump of butter, a spoonful or two of flour, moisten with the liquor of your oysters, and put the sauce on the fire, but do not let it boil. When it is got thick, throw in the oysters, with a beurre d'anchois, a little cavice, a spoonful of thick cream and serve up. NO 5.-Sauce aux Huitres pour Entrées. AFTER having stewed your oysters as above, you make a roux blanc into which you put a few small onions, mushrooms, a bunch of parsley, and green onions, Moisten with some of the liquor, a few spoonfuls of consommé, which reduce over a large fire. Then add a good quantity of cream, season well; keep your sauce pretty thick, drain it through a tammy, put the oysters entire in, and use the sauce with such articles as require oyster sauce. N6.—Les Attelets d'Huitres. . This entrée, which is no great favourite, has found its way into this work, on account of its having occasionally been called for. Stew your oysters as above. Have a sauce d'attelets (see Sauces) moisten with some of the liquor and let 362 it stand to cool. Then skewer the oysters ae- cording to the size of your dish, and by using your knife, spread the sauce all round. Throw crumbs of bread over the oysters; next dip them into an omelette, and into crumbs again. Fry them of a fine brown, and serve them up with- out any sauce. The sauce d'attelets is made as follows. Fry some herbs in a little butter; moisten with the liquor of the oysters, season it well, thicken your sauce with yolks of eggs, and pour it over the oysters. Let the whole stand till cold and then make the attelets. LE GRONDIN, OU LE ROUGET, RED PIPER. [The latter is the best.] NO 1.- Les Filets de Grondin sautés à la Ravi- gotte à la Créme. TAKE two pipers large enough to make a good dish : take off the fillets which cut in two lengthways, and the same crossways, make these into squares of about two or three inches. Mark them in clarified butter as fillets of soles, and dress them in the same manner. (See filets de solles, N. 3.) 363 NO 2.-Filets de Grondins à la Sefton. Pick out some pipers that are very frsh. Take up the 'fillets two or three inches long, parex them well, leave no skin on ; season them with salt and pepper. Then brush them over with the yolk of an egg, then dip them into butter and crumbs of bread, which you make smooth on the table, and broil them on a clear equal fire. They must be of a fine brown colour. (See Sauce à la Maréchale.) For fish, you may add a good beat of fresh butter and a little anchovy butter in the sauce à la Maréchale. 365 NO 2.-L'Omelette aux fines Herbes. The same preparation as above, with the addition only of a little parsley chopt very fine. Some people mix a few chopt shalots likewise, which may be done if approved of. NO 3.- Les petites Omelettes au Jambon. .- MARK your omelettes as above. You have some ham which has served as a remove: mince about a quarter of a pound which you throw into a little Espagnole. "You then make small omelettes of about two eggs each. Before you roll them introduce a spoonful of the minced ham. You may make four or six according to the size of your dish. Take care not to put too much salt, nay if the ham be briny, do not put any salt at all. NO 4.- Les petites Omelettes à l'Oseille. MAKE small omelettes as above. You have some sorrel already stewed, which you introduce before you roll your omelettes. Give them a pleasing shape and colour. N° 5.-L'Omelette au Rognon de Veau. If you have roasted a loin of veal, and that the kidney has been left, chop it, and put it in 366 an omelette prepared as in N? 1. Make it mellow, and properly seasoned with salt. NO 6.- Les petites Omelettes aux Confitures. Make small omelettes mixed with a little flour. Let them be properly done. Introduce the sweetmeats before you roll the omelettes, and lay them on the cover of a stew-pap. When they are all made, powder a little fine pounded sugar, and then use the salamander to glaze them of a fine colour. N7.-Les Eufs au Beurre noir. (Entrée Maigre.) BREAK some fresh eggs in a dish, without damaging the yolks; then powder them over with a little pepper and salt. Then fry some butter; a quarter of a pound will do for a dozen of eggs. When the butter is completely fried, which you may know by the ear, you pour it over the eggs, and then put your eggs in the frying pan, which keep distant from the fire, for fear the eggs should stick. When these are done at the bottom, use the salamander for the top, till they are turned white. Then dish without breaking them, and pour over a little vinegar. 367 NO 8.- Les Eufs au Miroir. BUTTER the dish in which you are to send up your eggs, break eight, but mind they be fresh, with pepper and salt: then cut small pieces of butter over the eggs, and use the salamander, till they be quite white. NO 9.- Les Eufs poches. Boil some water with a little vinegar. Take some fresh eggs, and break the shell with your knife, that the egg may drop into the water without breaking Turn with the shell to gather all the white round the yolk. Never poach more than four at a time. As soon as they are done, take them out, one at a time, and throw them into cold water. When you have poached the number you want, you parez them well. Then with your finger rub them gently over in the water that they may be very neat. Mind they must be very soft. These serve for a vast number of entrées and entremets. NO 10.- Les Eufs frits. You must procure a dish à sauté, or sauté pan, with little round holes made on purpose to poach your eggs in boiling oil. They fry better and are more dry when you vise oil instead of 369 half a pint of cream. Then stew this sauce, but do not let it boil. - Chop the whites of your eggs, which throw into the sauce. Now dish those whites, pour the yolks over the whites, baste them with a little butter, and use the salaman- der. Then serve up. NO 14.-Les Cufs en surprise. Cur a dozen and a half of eggs (boiled hard) in two. Take all the yolks, and pound them in a mortar, with a quarter, nay if you choose, with half a pound of butter, with which mix a little cream, pepper, salt, and grated nutmeg. When you have been pounding for half an hour, add to the above two raw eggs to thicken your farce. Then parex the inside of the whites, and fill one half of them with the farce. Next mix some minced parsley with part of the farce, and fill the other half. Erect a little dome in the centre of your dish with some of the farce, and trim it all round with your whites ; contrive to give them a pleasing appearance. Next put them in an oven for ten minutes, and send them up quite hot. NO 15.--Les Croquettes d'Eufs. Cut the white of a dozen and a half of eggs (boiled hard) into small dice. Make a thick 2 B 371 NO 17.-Les Eufs à la Neige. Beat some whites of eggs, which boil in milk, or water, with a little salt. Cut them all of a size with a spoon. Then boil a pint of cream. When it boils, throw in the thin outward peel of half a lemon, a little sugar, a very small quantity of salt; let the lemon steep. Then beat the yolks of four eggs with the cream, and let it thicken on the fire. When your cream is thick enough, drain it through a tammy, and mask your eggs à la neige with this sauce, Another time, instead of lemon use leaves of laurier rose, or laurier amande, notwithstanding in England, it be considered as poisonous. N. 18.--Les Cocottes. Put a little fresh butter at the bottom of small China cups. Break a fine new laid egg over the butter with a little salt and soine coarse pepper. Lay these over some red ashes, and then use the salamander till the eggs are done soft. NO 19.--Les @ufs brouillés. There are various sorts of æufs brouillés, namely :--aux champignons, aux cardes, aux truffes, aux concombres, au verjus, au bouillon, which are made as follow. Break eight eggs into a clean stew-pan with 2 B 2 372 half a quarter of a pound of butter, and a little salt and pepper; beat the eggs till the whites and yolks be well blended. Then put your pan 'on a slow fire, keep constantly stirring with a 'wooden 'spoon ; mind that les oeufs brouillés are never 'to be grumous, or to clot. 373 ENTREMETS OF VEGETABLES.' NO 1.--Les Cardes à l'Espagnole, or, Cardons d'Espagne. This dish, which I introduce foremost amongst all the entremets de légumes, requires great at- tention, to no small share of science in the art of cookery. It is not much relished in England, but in France it was held in the highest esti- mation. By the bye it is a very expensive article. In the first place you must select a few heads of cardons all very white. Cut each leaf into slices of six inches long; with the exception however of those that are hollow, which are tough and thready. Beard them of their prick- ling. If you wish to blanch them, put the thickest leaves into boiling water. When you have given them a few boils, you put in the leaves of the heart; you turn the middle stalks into large olives, and blanch them. Then try a piece in cold water, to see whether the slime 2 B 3 374 which is on the surface will come off by rubbing. If so, you take them out immediately, and throw them into cold water, as they are done enough. You may likewise pour some cold water into that which is boiling, till you can keep your hand in, to rub off all the slime. This being achieved, throw your cardons in a blanc, give them one single boil, and leave them in the aforesaid blanc. Whenever you wish to use them, drain a sufficient quantity. Parex both extremities, and mark them in a stew-pan, with four spoonfuls of Espagnole and four spoonfuls of consommé, a little salt, and a little sugar. Let them boil over a large fire, that they may not be done too much, as would be the case if it were a slow fire. Dish them nicely. Drain the sauce through a tammy, before you mask them. Send them up to table quite hot, and with a cover over them to prevent their getting dry. N: 2.-Les Cardes à l’Essence, à la Moelle de Bauf. The same operation as above. You take a few pieces of beef inarrow, all of a size, which you let to disgorge; by which it is meant that you lay the marrow in some water on the corner of the stove, to draw out the blood. When the marrow has thoroughly disgorged, you blanch it. 375 You then stew it in a little water with a little salt and a few slices of lemon to keep it white. When it is done you put it into the essence ; which however is no other thing than some Espagnole reduced, unless you have some essence, or Espagnole, as that indicated amongst the sauces. Drain the grease and never forget to put a little sugar; which is requisite in all the entremets de légumes. N? 3.—Les Cardes au Velouté. The same preparation as in the two former cases. You stew the vegetables in a little con- sommé; and when they are done you sauce them with some velouté. N? 4.- Les Cardes à la Sauce blanche. The same preparation as above, only sauce with the sauce blanche. LES EPINARDS. N1.- Les Epinards au Consommé. You must take particular care when your spinach is pickled, that no stalks be left, nor any other weed. The least oversight may cause the spinach to be good for nothing, notwith- standing all the trouble you would take in cook- ing thein. They must be washed at different 2 B4 376 times in a large quantity of water. Then boil some water in a vessel large enough for the spinach to float at ease. Put a great deal of salt, that they may retain their green colour, and thrust them down frequently, that they may be done equally. When they have had å few boils, try whether they can be squeezed easily, then without loss of time put them into a colander to drain the water. Next throw them into some cold water to keep them green. When they are quite cold make them into balls and squeeze them well. Then spread them on the table with your knife, to ascertain whether there be no foreign body left. Chop them very fine ; put a good piece of butter in a stew-pan, and lay your spinach over the butter. Let them be made dry over a gentle fire ; next singez them with a handful of flour. Moisten with a few spoonfuls of consommé, and let them stew speedily, that they may not turn yellow. Make them rich with a piece of glace. If you intend to send them up as an entrée with a ham, or a tongue, &c. you must mix a few spoonfuls of Espagnole, and let them be well seasoned. Some people like nutmeg ; if approved of you may grate a little. Spinach thus prepared may be used with a fricandeau, sweetbreads of veal, and breasts of veal or of mutton. 377 N° 2.-Les Epinards à la Créme. BLANCH and prepare them as above, only use cream instead of broth, or consommé. Boil your cream before you throw it over the spinach. If it should curdle, the cream alone is lost, where- as otherwise you would lose your spinach, butter and all. Spinach à la créme require a little sugar and nutmeg. It is needless to repeat that a little salt is also requisite, as there can be no good seasoning without. You must always have fried toasts of bread round your spinach when you send them up to table, or some feuilletage, but mind that neither must be stale. N. 3.- Les Epinards à la Françoise. These in Paris are called à l'Angloise. They are to be blanched as above. Squeeze them wel and pound them in a mortar. Then mark them in a stew-pan with a little butter. Leave them for three quarters of an hour on a very slow fire. Now throw in a large lump of very fresh butter, with salt, and grated nutmeg. Work your spinach well, till they be thick ; but take care the butter does not turn into oil. N. 4.- Les Epinards en Croustades. This dish is introduced merely for the sake of variety. Cut some bread, that is not quite stale 378 though, into hearts, which you slit all round. Fry them in butter. Contrive to have those hearts form a rosasse. Next cut a round of bread, which you slit in the like manner and place on the middle, over the points of the hearts. Fry these till they be of a fine brown, then cut off the interior part, and fill the vacuity with spinach, either à la crème, or au consommé. NO 1.- Les Choux-fleurs au Velouté. Pick off all the green leaves from your cauli- flower; open it to ascertain that there be no insects, then wash it, and stew it in a little butter, water, and salt. Do not let it boil too long.. Drain it that there may be no water left. .Then take four spoonfuls of velouté, which mix with a quarter of a pound of butter, and mask the cauliflower, after having ascertained that your sauce is properly seasoned. Sauces in- tended for vegetables must always be rather thick. ENDIVE. NO 1.–Chicorée au Jus. WASH your endive and beware of the worms, which generally are found in the heart. After having taken off all the green part of the leaves, 379 wash the endive in two or three different waters, and blanch' it to take off the bitter taste. You then throw it into cold water, and when quite cold squeeze it till there be no water left, and chop it very fine. Next stew it in a sufficient quantity of jus to cover it entirely, to which add a little salt, and a very small lump of sugar to remedy the bitter tart taste of the endive. When done enough add two spoonfuls of Espagnole, and use them either for entremets under poached eggs, or for entrées, such as émincé de mouton, muzette de mouton, carbonade, &c. - NO 2.-Chicorée au Velouté. The same preparation as above, but instead of jus, use consommé, and in lieu of Espagnole, take some velouté. Endive must always be stewed in broth, either jus, blond de veau, or Consommé. Mind the sauce must not boil when you have poured it over the endive, especially if it be cream sauce. If you wish your sauce to be of a white, colour, add some thick cream to it. N3. Chicorée à l'Espagnole. The same preparation again as in N1. When the endive is done add the Espagnole ; 380 and in case you should not have any, make a petit roux, which moisten with a little jus, or broth. The sauce must be kept liquid, that the grease may be skimmed off, and you reduce it with the endive. · CAULIFLOWER. CAULIFLOWERS are never good but when white and hard, and are not used in French cookery the moment they begin to grow to seed. NO 1.-Choux-fleurs à la Sauce blanche. AFTER having torn off all the green leaves, it is requisite you should open the cauliflower, to remove the snails or other insects, which are liable to creep towards the heart. For this pur- pose you leave the cauliflower in cold water for an hour. You next throw it into boiling water, with a little salt and butter. This vege- table being very tender is soon done. If you wish to boil them before hand, take them off the fire wben only half done, as their being left in boiling water will soon complete their doing. Now drain your pieces, without breaking them, dish them in the shape of a large cauliflower, and pour the sauce over them. (Sce Sauce blanche.) . . . 382 cauliflower should boil in the same, for it would break, if you attempted to shift it into another. N. B.-Cauliflowers intended for entrées are to be prepared as in N1, and always look whiter if boiled before hand. SALSIFIS. This root when black we call salsifis, if white it goes by the appellation of scorsonaires. This latter is by no means so tender or palatable as the former, however both are prepared and done in the same manner. You scrape them gently, so as to strip them only of the outside peel. You then cut them into equal pieces, and throw them into water with a little vinegar, or lemon-juice, to prevent their getting black. When you have scraped a sufficient quantity, you stew them in a little butter and salt, and water enough for them to swim at ease. They will generally be done in three-quarters of an hour; yet it is better to ascertain the fact by taking a piece out of the water, and to try with your knife whether they be done enough, which is the case when the knife penetrates easily. Drain your salsifis and send them up with what- ever sauce you think proper. 383 NO 1.-Salsifis au Velouté. The same preparation as above. Only ob. serve that such sauces as are sent up with vege- tables, must always be refined, or thinned with fresh butter. .. NO 2.—Salsifis à l'Espagnole. .. . The same preparation as in NO 1. Only use Espagnole instead of sauce blunche. NO 3.-Salsifis frits. Make a batter as follows. Take six spoonful's of flour, a small pinch of salt, a spoonful of olive oil, and beat the whole with some beer, that is to say a sufficient quantity only for the butter and not to be too liquid. You then beat the white of two eggs, and well beaten you pour them into the batter, which you keep stirring gently. You next put the vegetables, that have been done before hand and well drained into the batter, then take them out again one by one, to throw them into the dripping. Use a skewer to prevent their sticking together. When fried of a fine colour and crisp, send them up with some fried parsley in the centre of the dish, and a little pounded salt powdered over the vegetables. 384 ARTICHOKES. ARTICHOKES are fit to be eat when young and tender. Such as are intended for l'estouffade, or la barigoule, must be full grown; the sprouts are used when to be fried à la Provençale, à l'Italienne, &c. . NO 1.--Artichauts au naturel. ACCORDING to the size of your dish you boil a certain number of artichokes in salt and water only, after having washed them in several waters, and removed all the insects that swarm about the leaves. You can ascertain whether your artichoke is done enough, either with the point of your knife, or by tearing off one of the leaves. If the knife penetrates, or that the leaf comes off with facility, then you may rest as- sured the artichoke is done. Shift it instantly into cold water, that you may empty it. You first take off the top all of a lump, then empty the choke, set the top on again, and send up as hot as possible, with a sauce blanche in a sauceboat. Sauce NO 2.- Artichauts à l'Estouffade. These are prepared as in N. 1, but you boil them only till such time as you can empty them. 385 When emptied you drain them well. You then have some olive oil boiling, in which fry the leaves. When the surface is of a fine brown colour, you wipe off all the oil, and mark the artichokes in a stew-pan trimmed with layers of fat bacon, and a few slices of bam ; powder each artichoke with a little salt, and add to them a few carrots, onions, and a clove. Next cover them with thin layers of lean bacon. One single spoonful of broth will be sufficient to moisten the whole. There must be but a very small fire underneath, and a very brisk one on the top. The artichokes will be done in three- quarters of an hour's time if they be young and tender; but as not unfrequently there are some old ones amongst the number, it is better to ascertain with the point of your knife whether they be really done enough. Next drain all the grease, dish them, and send up with an Espagnole and the juice of a lemon inside of them. NO 3.- Artichauts à la Barigoule Are prepared in every respect as those N2. Only you have some sweet herbs, such as mush- rooms, shalots, and parsley chopped very fine, which you fry white in a little butter. When they are done, without being made too dry, you 2 C 386 season them with pepper, salt, and the juice of a lemon. You then divide those herbs withiu your artichokes, which you stew as above. When done, drain them, and send up with an Italienne rousse over the bottom, inside. NO 4.- Artichauts à la Provençale. SELECT some artichokes that are very tender, cut them into four equal quarters, parez them nicely, and rub them over with some lemon, that they may preserve their white colour. Throw them successively into cold water, the quantity to be in proportion of the size of the dish in which you are to serve your entremets. You then trim a stew-pan with a little olive oil, salt, and pepper, and set the whole to stew over some red hot ashes, or to bake in a moderately hot oven. When done, drain the artichokes and serve them up with a sauce blanche, to which you add a little glace, and the juice of a lemon ; or otherwise some Espagnole worked with a small lump of butter, and the juice of a lemon. N! 5.--Artichauts frits. Let your artichokes be tender, and cut into quarters as above. Rub them over also with lemon to keep them white. When they have 388 very nicely, neither are the most tender leaves to be taken off, in order that the inside of the artichokes be kept more clean. Blanch them in salt and water. When they are so far done that you may pull off the leaves, and empty the choke without breaking the bottoms, take them out of the water, and throw them into cold water that you may strip them entirely of the leaves, and remove the choke. You then make a blanc in the following manner. vel Blanc for Vegetables and Cardons in general. Cut about half a pound of fat bacon into large dice, the same as a little suet of beef, take half a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, a little, salt, and the half of a lemon cut into thin slices, and put the whole in a sufficient quantity of water to cover whatever you wish to put into your blanc. Let this blanc stew for half an hour before you throw in your artichoke-bottoms, which are also done in general in the same space of time, yet the most certain method is to use the point of your knife, to ascertain whether they be done enough. Send them up with what- ever sauce you think proper. They likewise serve to garnish either fricassées de poulets, ragoûts blancs, ou bruns, &c. 389 N: 8.-Les Culs d’Artichaux en Canapés. THESE, when cold, are served for entremets. You make a beurre d'anchoir, which you pour on the centre of each artichoke-bottom, and decorate the whole with capers, pickled cucum- bers, beet-root, &c. and when ready to serve up, pour over a sauce à salade. FRENCH BEANS. NO 1.-Haricots verds à la Poulette. FRENCH beans must be young and tender, The fruiterers and green grocers will send them by the hundred, but they are only fit to be eat when they are sold at market by the measure, They are to be boiled in salt and water, over a large fire, that they may retain their green colour. The poulette is made with a little sauce tournée, which you reduce, and next thicken with the yolks of two eggs, to wbich you add a little parsley chopped very fine. When the thickening is done enough, you add to it a good lump of fresh butter, which you work well, a little pepper and salt, and the juice of half a lemon. Drain your beans well so that no water remains, dish them, and send up with the sauce over them. 2 C 3 391 beans till the whole be well combined. Mix some sweet herbs chopped fine with the above, to which add a little good olive oil. Keep stir- ring, and if you do it properly the oil will form a pomatum. Now season it well, with the addition of the juice of a lemon. Serve up hot and with great expedition, that no oil may drop. WHITE BEANS, NO 1.-Haricots blancs à la Mattre d'Hotel. White beans when new and fresh, are put into boiling water. But if they dry they must be soaked for an hour before you boil them. You put them into cold water to boil, and replenish with cold water also, which makes the rind or coat tender. White beans must be well done before you dress them à la maître d'hôtel, which is done as followsTrim a stew-pan with a good lump of fresh butter, a little parsley chopped very fine, and some pepper and salt, over which lay the beans well drained. Keep moving the stew-pan without using a spoon, for fear of crumbling the beans. Then squeeze the juice of half a lemon, and send up quite hot. NO 2.- Haricots blancs à la Lionoise. Cut a few onions into dice, and fry them in 2 CA 392 - a little butter till they be of a light brown colour; you then add to them two spoonfuls of Espa- gnole. Let the onions be well done ; season them with pepper and salt; drain yonr beans - that have been done as above; then throw them into the sauce, and serve up hot. NO 3.-La Purée d'Haricots blancs. The beans, which must have been boiled before hand, are to be mixed with the following preparation. Chop some onions with white suet in a little butter, put a little four in the butter, and when done moisten thein with a spoonful or two of broth. Let the onions be thoroughly done of course. Now let the beans boil in that sauce for half an hour, season them well, with- out any pepper, however, and strain them en purée through a tammy. Reduce your purée over a brisk fire, skim off the white scum, and before you serve up, refine your purée with two small lumps of very fresh butter, and two spoonfuls of thick cream. This entremets is to be dished with fried crusts of bread all round. NO 4.- La Purée d'Haricots rousse. Is prepared in a like manner to the purée blanche above, with this difference, that the onions are to be fried brown. You moisten 393 with some Espagnole, and in case you should not have any, as soon as your onion is of a fine brown colour, you throw in a spoonful of four, moisten with a little jos, or blond de veau ; let the flour be well done, and set your leans boil- ing for half an hour, in order that the taste of both may amalgamate ; you next strain the whole en purée, and give it a good seasoning. Remember that brown sauces are always to be more highly seasoned than others. ASPARAGUS. ice NO 1.- Les Asperges à la Sauce blanche, dites en Betonets. Asparagus are always boiled in salt and water, whether intended for entrées, or entremets. The water wherein they have boiled is ever impregnated with an unbearable bitter taste; for which reason asparagus are never used in soups or garnish, but in the very last moment of sending up the dinner. They must boil over a large fire, in order to retain their green colour. Those served en båtonets are cut according to the size of the dish. A toast of bread is gene- rally put under the asparagus to raise them on the dish, and to receive the water which may issue. 397 SEACALE. . This plant is not known in France. It is to be boiled in salt and water, and after being well drained, sent up with either a sauce blanche, or a velouté, or an Espagnole. BROCOLI. BROCOLI are no other than green cauliflowers. They are dressed in the same manner, and sent up with the same sauce. (See Cauliflowers, Nos. 1, 2, 3, 4.) POTATOES. NO 1.--Pommes de Terre à la Maitre d'Hótel. Wash your potatoes clean, and boil them with the rind in salt and water. When they are done let them cool, then turn them in the shape of big corks, and cut them into slices as thick as twopenny pieces, for if the slices were too thin they would break in the sauce. (For the. mailre d'hôtel, sce Sauces.) If you should have no sauce ready, make a sauce au beurre, with which mix a little chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and a little glaze besides the juice of a lemon, if acid be acceptable. Mind the sauce does not curdle. 398 NO 2.--Les Pommes de Terre frites. THËse are to be turned when raw, and cut as thick as in N: 1. You then fry them in clari- fied butter. If you should have any goose drip- ping, it would do better still. When the pota- toes are fried of a fine brown colour and crisp, you drain all the grease on a towel, and serve them quite hot on a napkin or in a deep dish, for this entremets otherwise cannot be dished nicely. Do not forget to powder them over with a little pounded salt. NO 3.-Purée de Pommes de Terre. It is useless to explain in what manner this purée is to be prepared. Suffice it to say that you may use either broth or cream, Fried crusto of bread are served all round the dish. NO 4.-Croquettes de Pommes de Terre. AFTER having boiled your potatoes in water, to take off the tartness, you boil a pint of milk into which you infuse half the peel of a lemon, with a lump of sugar, and a little salt. It is · hardly possible rightly to determine the quantity of the potatoes, which the aforesaid milk is to serve a sauce for ; however the mash must be made rather thick. You let it cool, and then roll it in the shape you like best, either into corks, 399 TEA CON pears, or balls." You then pannez them as other croquettes with an omelette and a little salt, next dip them into crumbs of bread, and repeat both operations a second time. Give them a pleasing form, fry them of a fine colour, and send them up, but without any fried parsley. In this dish the sugar may be predominant. NO 5.-Casserolle de Pommes de Terre. INSTEAD of a casserolle au ris you make a casserolle de pommes de terre. The potatoes must be much done ; you then mix some butter and cream with a little salt, and make the whole of a good substance. Then dish it, make an opening that you may empty the centre. After having given it a fine brown colour in the oven, you empty the centre, wipe your dish clean, and pour in your ragout, or macaroni, &c. NO 6.-Soufflé de Pommes de Terre. . · The soufflé requires the potatoes to be much done also. When they have been boiled a suf- ficient time in water, strain them through a hair sieve, and put what comes through the sieve in a mixture of milk, sugar, lemon-peel, a good beat of butter, and salt, as in N: 4. Work the whole with the potatoes, and add the yolks of six eggs to the preparation. At the moment you are going to send up the relevés des soupes, beat the 400 whites of your eggs, and when well beaten mis them with the rest of the preparation. Put the whole into a plat à soufflé, or in a pie-crust that has been made before hand. The soufflé how. ever is better in a dish, as you cannot get them so well done in paste. Glaze with a little pound- ed sugar and the salamander. Send up speedily for fear the soufflé should fall. NO 7.-Gateau de Pommes de Terre. The same preparation as for the soufflé, with the only difference that you pannez a mould. First you put some clarified butter in the mould, so that it may be spread all round: this being done you put two or three large handfuls of crumbs of bread, and spread them equally on all parts of the mould. Then dip a brush in some butter, and sprinkle gently over the con- tents of the mould, which strew over a second time equally with crumbs of bread, that your gateau may be made of a fine colour. You may occasionally add dried currants, or cherries, sometimes noyau, or marasquin, &c. to create a variety. NO 8.- Biscuits de Pommes de Terre. Take fifteen fresh eggs, break the yolks in one pan, and the whites in another, Beat the 402 have them gathered in the morning, and dressed on the same day in the following manner. .NO, 1.—Pois à la Française. For a large dish, take three quarts of green pease. Throw them into an earthen pan with a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, and plenty of cold water. Handle the pease with the butter till such time as the pease will stick together. You then drain them, and taking them out of the water by handfuls, throw them into a colan- der, that neither water nor any kind of filth may remain. You next stew them over a mo derate fire with a bunch of parsley and green onions. When they have recovered their green colour, powder them over with a little four; stir your pease before you moisten them with boiling water, till they be entirely covered with the same, which you reduce on a large fire. The moment you perceive there is no moisture or liquor 'remaining, dip a good lump of sugar into some water, that it may soon melt, to whicb add a very small quantity of salt. I have already said (see Asperges en petits pois) that sugar must predominate ; however green pease without salt would taste very insipid, notwithstanding they who eat them -are not sensible of there being 403 any. Now take a lump of butter about a quarter of a pound, which knead with a handful of flour. Mind that your pease be boiling when you are going to send them up;' thicken them with the kneaded butter, and remember that when green pease are properly dressed, there must be no sauce. N? 2.–Petits Pois au Lard. The same preparation as in NO 1. The bacon is to be cut into pieces one inch square, and always taken from the part of the breast, which in France is called petit lard. Sometimes the pieces may be cut in the shape of corks, 'accordo ing to fancy. Blanch these for half an hour in water to take off the briny taste; you then fry your bacon of a fine colour, and drain all the grease. You next stew the bacon with the pease in the same manner as in NO 1. . But in- stead of flour you put in only a little water. When the pease are nearly done and reduced, add to them a spoonful of sauce tournée. If you wish them to be of a brown colour, you use some Espagnole, and never omit a little sugar. Unless the pease are served as sauce, or an entrée, there must never be any sauce in the dish. A eve V sauce 2 D 2 404 N° 3.--Pois à l'Angloise. Set some water boiling. When it boils, throw in your pease with a little salt. When done enough, drain them, and empty them into a stew-pan, with a good lump of butter and a little salt. Keep stirring till the butter be melt- ed, and season with a little more salt, and pep- per also, if approved of. Send up hot, but take care the butter does not turn into oil. ¿ NO 4.-Petits Pois à la Paysanne. Mark your pease as in N: 1. Then take a few cabbage and gauze lettuces, a good handful of parsley, and some few green onions. Wash them clean, and break them with your fingers instead of chopping them. Drain the above mentioned lettuce, parsley and onions, and sweat them with the pease over a very slow fire. You need not put any moisture, but take care repeatedly to stir the, stew: pan to prevent the vegetables, from burning. When they are done enough, add a little pepper and salt, without any thickening as for pease dressed in a different N. 5.-Of Pease in General. It is requisite that a cook should have all the pease intended for entrées, or for entremets 406 NO.2.-Another Method., When the beans are become large, you must take off the coats, and boil them in salt and water; cook them as above, and send them up with a courte sauce. N3.- Fèves de Marais au petit Lard. Windsor beans are served in England, as an entrée in the summer season. After having boiled your beans of a fine green colour, and that they are well done, you take a piece of petit lard, fat and lean intermixed, which you boil for a couple of hours. When ready to send up, take off the rind of your bacon and dry the latter with a red hot shovel. Powder the bacon over with raspings of bread. Give it a pleasing shape, and lay it over the beans without any sauce. Send up in a boat some chopped parsley in a sauce au beurre, which stands on the sideboard. TURNIPS. NO 1.-Navets à la Sauce blanche. TURNIPs only find their way as entremets, in winter time, from a want of other vegetables. Cut them in the shape of pears; boil them in salt and water, and when done enough drain them, and send them up with a sauce blanche, 409 of broth use water, wherein you put a great deal of sugar, half a spoonful of flour, a little salt, a good bit of butter, and the yolks of six eggs, which are all to be mixed with the foriner. The moment you are ready to send up, you beat the whites of the eggs which you throw in with the rest, and put into the oven for a proper time. CELERY. N! 1.—Céleri à l'Espagnole. Cut a dozen of heads of celery of the same length of your dish à entremets ; blanch them; next mark them in a stew-pan between two layers of bacon. Stew them in a little moisture (broth or consommé, &c.) and drain all the grease. Now dish your celery, and send it up with an Espagnole. NO 2.-Céleri à la Sauce blanche. Cut a dozen heads of celery as above. Let them stew in a little butter, salt and water, When done enough drain them and serve op with the sauce blanche. NO 3.-For the purée of celery (see Sauces). In general all purées are made according to the same process. . . . ... ; 1 410 ENTREMETS SUCRÉS. si APPLES. NO 1.— Pommes à la Portugaise. Take a dozen of fine rennett apples; take care they be not injured. Peel them equally, and push the core out with a vegetable cutter, Let them boil in a very thin sirop, without their being too much done. Then make a mar. malade of apples, but let it be very white. (See Marmelade.) This marmalade must be made of a good substance. You then lay the apples in a hair sieve to drain, that no sirop may remain, and next dish the marmelade, which you level with your knife. Now lay your apples at an equal distance, so that they be more elevated in the centre. Into the cavity of each apple place a preserved cherry. If you should have any apricot marmalade, generally called apricot jam, you may decorate your entremets in proportion as your imagination may suggest, or your means afford, N2.-Miroton de Pommes. You must take at least two dozen of apples, and of those especially that stand the fire best, Peel them, and cut them into slices about the size of a dollar. Take a deep dish, otherwise, your miroton would decrease in the dish, and not look well. Put a little marmalade in the bottom of the dish, in order to stick down the apples, one above another all round the dish. Fill up the middle or centre of the dish with the most defective slices of your apples. Now Jay another bed of apricot-marmalades, to pre- vent the apples from slipping down, Next lay a second bed of apples, and some marmalade again, so as to form a complete spiral line. Observe to close the centre with a slice of apple, which is to be slit. Next bake your apples in a moderately hot oven. When they yield to the pressure of the finger, it is a sign of their being done enough. The only thing to be done next is to powder over the apples a little pounded sugar, and to glaze with the salamander. Be cautious to give your apples a fine colouring. ? NO 3.-Suédoise de Pommes. MAKE a marmalade of apples as compact as possible. Then take small pieces of apples' cut into corks and of different colours. To die them 412 you need only dilute with sirop a little carmine or saffron; and give them a boil. Next you let your apples cool, that the colour may be spread equally over them. When you dish your sué- doise you first spread some marmalade over the middle of the dish, next methodically arrange your apple-corks; viz. one white, one red, one yellow, and so on. In proportion as they are raising, you make the second row narrower, and decorate the top with cherries that are of a pink hue, green gages, &c. You now have some jns de pomme with which you have mixed a little calf's foot jelly clarified. and which you lay to cool in a plate large enough to cover your sué. doise. Let it be made quite cold. When your suédoise is decorated in an agreeable form, de- tach your jelly from the plate, and place it gently. over the suédoise. T'he jelly must be of a suffi- cient substance not to run down the fruit. NO 4.-Chartreuse de Pommes et de Fruit. · A chartreuse is the same thing as a suédoise, * only instead of raising the fruit with your hand over the marmalade, you oil a mould of the same size as the dish you intend to use, and arrange symetrically the fruit of different colours, such as angelica, preserved oranges, lemons, &c. in short whatever may offer a variety of colours. 414 empty gallipot, which you put in the cehtre of your dish, and lay your rice all around till you reach the top of the gallipot. You next take your pieces of apples that have been drained of all the sirop through a sieve, and thrust them into the rice, sloping towards the right in the first row, and towards the left in the second, and so on till you reach the top of your turban, which you put into the oven that the apples' may be made of a fine colour. When you are ready to serve up, you remove the gallipot, wipe off all the butter, which may occasionally be about the middle of the dish, and pour in a crème patissière, that is made as follows. . : : CRÊME PATISSIÈRE. Take a pint of cream and a pint of milk, 'boil them and keep stirring with a spoon. When the cream has boiled, add to it about two ounces of sugar, a little salt, and the peel of a lemon. Let this peel diffuse till the cream tastes of the lemon ; you next beat the yolks of eight eggs with the cream, and do them on the fire, stir- ring all the while with a wooden spoon. When the cream is got very thick you pour it into a, hair sieve to drain, and keep pressing upon it with your wooden spoon. When entirely strained, you put it in a pan to serve you 417 ham, in order to make the rice more mellow, and add a little salt. As the rice must swell very much, use a sufficient quantity of broth to pro- cure that effect. Lay your rice on a very slow fire, and mind to stir it frequently, that it may not stick. Taste it to ascertain whether it be well seasoned, and done enough; you then strain it through a colander and level it well with a wooden spoon. Take the grease or fat that issues from the rice, and pour it into the mould which you fix upon for your casserole : when all the parts of this latter are well covered with the grease, you drain it by means of turn- ing the mould upside down, then you put some rice all round the mould, put a piece of soft bread in the middle, and cover it with rice, squeeze in it equally with your spoon, and let it cool. When the rice is made firm dip it outside of the mould into boiling water. Now, have a little pâte brisée which frame of the size of your mould ; turn the mould over the paste; make an opening with a knife in the top, and flatten the paste all round with a spoon, then put it into the oven, which can never be too hot for a casserole, for if the oven be not hot enough the casserole iş liable to break; baste it with the grease, and when it is become of a fine colour take it out of the oven; open it gently, then cut the bread into small 2 E 418 pieces with a penknife, in order that you may take it out without injuring the casserole ; next remove the rice that sticks around, but do not empty it too much, for fear it should not bear or resist the weight of whatever you intend throwing in. You generally put inside those casseroles au ris, white and brown ragouts, blanquettes, émincés, fricassées of pullets, maccaroni, and scollops of fish that have already been brought from the table, &c. &c. NO 2.-Cassoletles of Rice. • The rice is to be prepared as above NO 1, but . must be put into smaller moulds. Mind that the cassolettes are to be made quite cold before .. you take them out of the mould. The best method of filling up the cassolettes consists in taking a carrot, which you cut out of a proper farger size to make a hole in the rice; this hole you fill up with an émincé of fowl' au velouté. This émincé must be thoroughly cold. When you fill up the mould with the rice, close the former without allowing any of the émincé to be mixed with the rice, in which case the casso- lettes would break in the dripping when you fry them. For preventing a similar accident the dripping must be very hot. It is to be observed that in the making of cassolettes, the rice must 419 be made quite firm, and that they require some- thing of a white colour being added, as either an émincé au velouté, or a salpicon of palates and of mushrooms à l'Allemande. · N. B.-You may likewise give them a light brown colour in the oven, the same as to other casserolles au ris, but frying is the best. N. 3.-Le Gateau de Ris. After having prepared your rice as in N. 1, you take some good cream, which you boil, first to ascertain it will not curdle; the quantity whereof is proportionate to the mould you in- tend to use. For a quarter of a pound of rice you take a quart of cream, which however is not always sufficient; this depends on the rice swelling more or less : in this case you add a little milk to it. When your cream has boiled take the peel of a lemon which infuse in the cream for a quarter of an hour, take the peel out before you pour in the rice, which lay on a very slow fire till it bursts, or swells ; when well swollen add a little salt, and some sugar, according to your own palate, the sugar however must pre- dominate, the salt being only intended to remedy the insipid taste that is the general companion of sweet entremets. Sugar must entirely pre- dominate in articles for a dessert, but in entre- 2 E 2 420 mets it is to be used moderately. When your rice is done 'enough, and properly seasoned, break eight eggs, mix the yolks with the rice, next beat the whites' which you pour gently into the preparation, put likewise a good bit of butter; then clarify about a quarter of a pound of butter, and when it is completely clarified pour it into the mould ; turn your mould round that the butter may be spread equally on all parts of the mould which you then turn upside down for a moment: you then put crumbs of bread into the mould, and contrive to have them likewise spread equally all over the mvuld; now dip a small piece of paper into the butter, sprinkle some butter all round the mould, and put some more crumbs of bread. This being performed to your satisfaction, pour your rice into the mould, and put it into the oven, but mind it be not too hot. An hour is required for your gateau to be baked enough. Turn it upside down in the dish, and serve up. N. B.—You may garnish with preserved cherries, raisins, or corinths, &c. NO 4.-Les Croquettes de Ris. The rice is to be prepared as in NO 3. When it has swelled in the cream, and it is pro- perly seasoned, let it cool; then roll it into croquettes in the shape of a cork. You next When your soufflé is raised sufficiently, send up, as it would soon lower. If you wish to make a kind of pap, take a spoonful of flour, a pint of milk, a little salt, lemon, and sugar, let the whole boil well, then mix it with your apples and the yolks of four eggs: the whites are to be poured in afterwards: you next bake your soufflé in the oven. This method although safer than the former is sufficient in point of daintiness. NO 11.-Charlotte de Pommes mélée d' Abricots. The Charlotte has been so called after the name of the original inventor, yet there is no doubt but his successors have made great im- provements to the original. In order to make a Charlotte, take a dozen of rennets; but if you use a very large mould, you must take more. Cut them into quarters, peel them, and next "put them into a pan with a lump of butter, a little cinnamon, the peel of half a lemon, and a Jittle pounded sugar. Stew all these ingredients over a brisk fire, without allowing them to burn at any rate. · When your apples are nearly done cenough, take them off the fire, mix with them half:a pot of marmalade of apricots, and throw i the whole into a mould that you have trimmed with slices of bread dipped into melted butter : cover the marmalade with bread that has also 425 been dipped into butter. Now bake the Char. dottein an oven that is pretty hot; give it a good colour, and serve up bot. It is useless to 're- commend to decorate the top of the Charlotte, it must be always so. • OF CREAŃS IN GENERAL. . NO 1.- Crème au Caffé. It is necessary to observe in this first article that all crémes are made in the like manner; the taste and colour only vary. Take a pint of cream and a pint of milk, which boil together. When your cream and milk have boiled, throw in a lump of sugar and a little salt: now roast your coffee in the pan à omelette. When your coffee is well and equally roasted, throw it whilst burning hot into the cream, and let it infuse till it gets quite cold. If you wish to pour your cream into cups or any other small vessels you measure the quantity of your cream, and put the yolk of an egg to every cup; rub your cream twice through a tammy, in order that the egg may be well mixed with the cream, and next put your cups in a pan containing water to half the height of the cups; now cover them and put a little fire over the lid or cover of the pan, to prevent any steam dropping into the 426 eream. As soon as your créme is done, let it cool, and take care to secure the cups from being injured by dust, &c. NO 2.-Créme au Citron.. .. The same preparation as above; but when your cream has boiled, instead of coffee you throw in the peel of a lemon which you leave to infuse, with the addition of a little salt and sugar. If intended for a créme in moulds of a great magnitude, you must use a greater quaii- tity of eggs, as for instance sixteen eggs for two pints of cream or milk. : N. 3.-Créme au Chocolat. For an entremets take a quarter of a pound of Vanilla chocolate, rasp it very fine and throw it into a pan to melt with a little water. When melted mix and beat it with some crearn, which you have boiled, as above, and a little salt. Except in crémes of fruit, either pine-apple,apricots, raspber- ries, &c. a little salt is always requisite, but very little indeed. If you wish to make a crême à la glace, instead of sixteen eggs per quart of cream · you only put eight, which you put on the fire, but take particular care to prevent all manner of curdling : mix with the above a little isiņglass, and rub the whole through a tammy. Now 427 try a little of the preparation in a small mould over the ice. If you should find that your cream has not substance sufficient to bear being turned upside down, you must add a little more isinglass. It is to be observed that the isinglass must previously be melted in a little water. (See me- thod of melting isinglass). NO 4.-Crême à la Vanille. Take one or two sticks of vanilla, which in- fuse in some cream that has been boiling : next put in the eggs as you do for other creams. If you are making a fromage à la glace, you must put a smaller quantity of eggs, and keep con- - stantly stirring your cream on the fire, whilst your eggs are getting done. Mind that the eggs be not overdone. When you perceive your cream is getting thick, put the isinglass in, and rub it through a tammy, then put it into a mould and into some ice. NO 5.-Créme au Thé. Boil a pint of cream and a pint of milk, into which throw a little salt and some sugar ; be it understood however that the latter must predo- minate. When your cream boils, throw two or three spoonfuls of good tea into the cream, give 428 it one boiling, then put in the eggs and operate as usual. NO 6.—Créme à la Fleur d'Oranges. INSTEAD of tea infuse a large pinch of flower of oranges, and when your cream has got the flavour, put in the eggs, &c. NO 7.—Créme à la Genét, dite au Caramel. MELT about an ounce of sugar in a confec- tionary pan. Let it reduce till it is come brown, but mind to keep continually stirring to prevent the sugar getting a bitter taste. When quite brown, dilute it with a little water, to which add a little sugar to remedy the bitter taste. Next use a little more water to melt the caramel. When this is melted, take a pint of cream that has been boiling, throw your caramel into this -cream, and put a sufficient quantity of sugar to make it palatable. Now, if you wish to have your cream to the ice pour in the yolks of eight eggs; but if you intend to have it à l'oeuf seulement you must use twelve eggs. In the first case, when the eggs are well mixed you put them on the fire to thicken, and when the cream begins to thicken you stir it well, and throw in the isinglass that you have melted pre- viously, then put it in the mould, and in the ice. 431 use two yolks of eggs for a mould à dariolles; proceed as above, with the only difference that you butter your moulds lightly over with some clarified butter. Boil your eggs in moulds instead of cups, and when they are thick enough ..turn them upside down in the dish which you are to send up: mind to keep some of the same consommé which you send up as a sauce. N. 11.—Les Eufs à la Neige. BREAK the whites of four eggs, which will be enough for an entremets. Beat those whites till they get thick ; you have had some milk boiling on the fire, poach several spoonfuls of your whites in that milk, and when they are done enough you drain and dish them. You next make a sauce to pour over them in the following manner. Take some of the milk in which you have poached your eggs, then put a little sugar, a little orange flower, a little salt to your milk, mix the yolks of four eggs with the same, stir the whole on the fire till the milk is made thick, and mask your neiges with that sauce. NO 12.-La Créme à l' Italienne. Boil a pint of cream with half a pint of milk. . When it boils, throw in the peel of an orange and of a lemon to infuse in that boil. uce. a 434 then is mighty pleasant to the palate. Boil a pint of cream and a pint of milk with a little sugar and very little salt. Now infuse the peel of half a lemon, and if the taste of either flowers of orange, roses, or vanilla, &c. be more agree- able, use them in preference. Put a quarter of a pound of tapioca into your cream, and let it boil over a very slow fire. When it is done, throw in a piece of butter, and break the yolks of six eggs, which you beat with the above preparation. When you send up your first course, you beat the whites of your eggs, which you pour gently with the rest, and set the whole on a moderate oven. If you wish to make a gateau, you panez a mould twice over with cla. rified butter and crumbs of bread: you mix, with the above dried cherries and corinths or currants, and proceed as you would do for a soufflé. You next turn the mould upside down, in the dish, and send up hot. OU F ETS OF SOUFFLÉS D'ENTREMETS Let it suffice to observe in the first number relative to the souffiés, that they are all made in the same manner, and that they vary only in the taste you wish to give them. If sent up in 435 proper time they are very good eating, if not, they are no better than other puddings. NO 1.--Soufflé de Pommes de Terre au Citron. Bake a dozen of potatoes; when they are well done open them, scoop out the most flowery part, and mix it with half a pint of cream that has been boiling; and into which you have soaked the peel of a lemon; to this add a little sugar, a large lump of butter, and a little salt; the taste of the sugar, however, must predominate; yet observe that the less sugar you use the lighter your soufflés are. Now break six eggs, throw the yolks of four only into the potatoes, beat the six whites, which pour gently with the above preparation into a plat à soufflé, and put it into the oven, which must not be too hot. When your soufflé is done enough powder a little sugar over it, use the salamander, and send up imme. diately. NO 2.--Soufflé à la Fleur d'Oranges. DILUTE a little flower with half cream and half milk; set this pap on the fire to boil ; when the Aower is done put a little salt, a little sugar and a small quantity of flowers of oranges, mix the whole well, then add a large lump of butter, the yolks of six eggs, which you mix well with 2 F 2 436 the preparation. Now beat the six whites and mix them with the rest : then bake your souffle as above, and when it is baked enough glaze it and send it up. NO 3.-Soufflé de Créme de Ris. We call créme the flower of rice, which is pre- pared as follows. Wash and pick a certain quan- tity of rice: when it retains no foreign taste or bad flavour, lay it in an hair sieve to dry before the fire ; when quite dry pound it, and sift it; the flower that gets through the sieve is called créme de ris, as I said before. Of this flower take two spoonfuls which dilute with a little cream and milk, boil them on a slow fire, and give whatever taste you may think proper. Of course you must add the butter, sugar, salt, beaten whites, &c. as to all other soufflés, then send up. NO 4.- Soufflé de Pain. Boil some milk with a little cream, to which you may give any taste you please. Throw into your milk the soft of two or three fresh rolls to soak, rub the bread through a sieve, and pro- ceed with the eggs, butter, sugar, &c. as usual. n 438 OMELETTE SOUFFLÉE. Break eight eggs in a large earthen pan, divide the whites in one, and the yolks in another, rasp a little lemon peel or orange flowers, beat the yolks well, add a little sugar and salt, now. beat the whites well en neige, and mix them with the yolks. Then put a lump of butter in a pan à omelette on the fre, when the butter is melted pour your omelette into the pan; when it is firm enough to hold the liquid part, turn it round in the dish you serve 19; then bake it in an oven, or use the four de cumpagne. When it is well raised glaze it, and send it up immediately, for it would soon lower, GELÉES AU FRUIT. It is to be observed that all jellies made of what is called red fruit must be worked cold, and be laid on the ice very expeditiously. If you were to use a tinned mould tlie tin would alter the red into a dead blue colour, and also spoil the taste; whereas if you use earthen moulds your jellies will always look and taste better. It is also advisable to clarify the isinglass whilst it is melting: there is less waste and the 439 jellies have a brighter look. (See manner of melting isinglass). NO 1.-Gelée de Fraises... Put some strawberries into an earthen pan, squeeze them well with a new wooden spoon, mix some pounded sugar with your fruit, and let them infuse for an hour that the sugar may draw out all the juice from the fruit; now pour in a little water. If the strawberries be very ripe, squeeze the juice of two lemons to restore the acid taste of the strawberries, for such pre- parations as are made too sweet are ever insipid. Put all this in a bag nearly new, that the juice may be drained clear and limpid ; 'mix some isinglass with your juice, but mind the whole be very cold. Now put half a spoonful of the jelly in a mould over some ice to ascertain the degree of its substance. If thick enough put the whole in the large mould in the ice, and cover it also with ice, but no salt, for it would spoil the bright colour. Some people will clarify the sugar, and when it is quite limpid and very hot they will throw their strawberries into the clarified sugar. This method is good enough, but then the jelly does not keep the taste of the fruit so well. You may try either way. When the strawberries ma 2 F 4 441 good jelly. Take the peel of six oranges, throw it into a little water, which lay on the cornerof a stove without allowing it to boil, for fear it should taste too bitter. Cut your oranges in two: have a silk sieve and an orange squeezer, both which you dip into cold water, otherwise they would absorb the juice of two oranges at least. Squeeze your oranges in a sieve over an earthern-pan. This being completed pour the infusion of the peel through the sieve; next a pound of sugar or so, in proportion as your oranges are more ar less acid. Break the sugar in a poëlon d'office (confectionary pan), pour a drop of the white of an egg in about a pint of water, beat this water till it gets white, pour it over the sugar, and set it on the fire. When your sugar becomes frothy or scummy, throw a little more water in. Then skim your sugar, let ịt reduce till it begins to bubble ; you then pour in the juice of your oranges. The heat of the sugar will clarify the jelly. Do not let it boil, but as soon as you perceive a yellow scum, skim it and pour your jelly into a bag. You then mix some isinglass either hot or cold. This jelly must not be made too firm, and especially avoid ever introducing any foreign colour into your orange-jelly which is almost always yellow; wherefore would you contrive to make it red. Some people will add brandy to it, which is · 442 wrong, the natural favour ought never to be adulterated. If your oranges should be too ripe, mix a little lemon-juice to make them acid. NO 7.-Gelée de Citrons. LEMON-JELLY is made exactly in the same manner as that of oranges. However it requires a little more attention, for you must smell all the lemons you use for fear they should be musty; besides the lemons being more acid require a larger quantity of sugar. In every other respect the process is the same as above. N! 8.-Gelée en Mosaïque. . Boil half a pint of cream; when it boils in- fuse the peel either of an orange or of a leinon, according as you wish to decorate your jelly with either. When your creain has imbibed the flavour of the fruit, you put in a little sugar. Break the yolks of four eggs which you beat with the cream, lay it on the fire to thicken, and then put in some isinglass that has previously been melted, Drain the whole through a hair sieve, and put it well covered on some ice, in order that it may get quite firm. Now take the mould which you intend to use, brush it lightly with oil all over, and then cut your jelly of créme with a knife in the first place. Next with small tin trenchers. Decorate your mould without 445 your cherries into the boiling sugar: take them off the fire, and when the decoction is made cold, throw in a little clarified cold isinglass, which, however, must be liquid. Now drain through a bag, and try your preparation. Next fill your earthern mould and put them in the ice. I have already observed that tin moulds would · make the jelly turn of a dead blue colour. . N. B.- Take off the stone of the cherries and pound them the same as the raspberries or cur- rants. (See N. 2.) N: 11.-Le Miroton de Péches. Cut a dozen of peaches into halves, peel them gently, and boil them in a thin sirop, but do not boil them too long. If they be very fine you may use them raw, but if common fruit the sirop will improve the look of them. Break the stones, peel the kernels, and throw them into the sirop with the fruit. As soon as the peaches are ready you may use them for making a tourte, or for the gelée en miroton, which you make with some wine jelly, the same process as N. 9. N? 12.-Gelée de Pied de Veau. NOTWITHSTANDING calf's foot jelly is seldom made alone, yet it is incumbent upon me to explain how it is to be made. Boil your calf's 447 NO 13.-Gelée de Vin de Madère. This jelly is made exactly in the same manner as the preceding. When the jelly is near get- ting clarified your pour into the same stew-pan a bottle or two of Madeira. As the operation of clarifying takes away the strength of the wine you must add half a bottle of brandy to it. You must observe that this jelly will keep for several days, and that accordingly what you have left and what is sent down from table will be sufficient to supply you with another entremets. This is a common jelly which cooks and traiteurs will frequently serve ; therefore in order to avoid monotony, you must ornament it with a jelly which you make as follows. Take four spoonfuls of gelée de vin, break the yolks of four eggs into a stew-pan; beat the eggs with the jelly, and lay it on the fire to get thick; then drain it through a sieve, lay it on the ice, and use it as you do with regard to gelées de citron, and oranges en mosaique, N8. N. B.- It will sometimes happen that the gelées de vin au pied de veau seulement will break when you turn thein upside down in the dish. To prevent a similar accident throw in a pinch of isinglass when you are going to clarify, your jelly. 020 448 DES FROMAGES À LA GLACE. N? 1.- Fromage d'Abricots. It will suffice to indicate in this N? 1, that there is but little variety in the manner of mak- ing those fromages, so that by recurring to this number it will be iinpossible ever to commit a mistake. If in the summer season take according to the size of them eight or twelve ripe apricots : take off the peel and stones; throw your apricots into a mortar, and pound them with a little sugar. When well pour ded rub them through a tammy, during which operation keep pressing upon the fruit with a new wooden spoon. Now melt a little isinglass with this purée. Take a pint of thick cream, beat it well and mix it with the apricots Taste whether your cream be sweet- ened enough. Continue to beat it over the ice with a rod, till you are sensible that the isinglass is well melted and blended with the mixture. You then put your fromage into a mould, round which you heap a large quantity of ice with so:ne salt. If you should not be cautious to keep stirring over the ice, the apricot would fall to the bottom of the mould, so that when you would turn your ice-cream upside down in the 449 dish it would appear of two colours. In winter time you take a pot of marmalade of apricots which you reduce in a purée through a hair sieve; mix a little pounded sugar with it, like: wise a little jsinglass. Now, as above, take a pint of thick cream, beat it well, mix it gently over the ice with your fruit, and when they are well mixed put them into the inould which cover all round with ice... - NO 2.-Fromage de Fraises. - TAKE a pottle of strawberries, make a purée of them, put a sufficient quantity of sugar to sweeten it well, and add a little isinglass. Nest mix the whole with a pint of créme fouettée, and proceed as indicated above. N3.-- Fromage de Framboises. .. The same process as above. Make a purée of your raspberries, &c. N. 4.- Fromage à la Fleur d'Oranges. In this case you must make an infusion. Boil half a pint of cream, into which throw a handful of flower of oranges, and let the cream cool. When it is cold, drain it through a sieve, and mix it with another pint of thick cream ; keep beating over the ice till the mixture be made 2 G 451 m!..NO 7.-Fromage au Chocolat. . - Proceed as above. Melt a quarter of a pound of chocolate that you have previously rasped or pounded : add a little water to it; when melt. ed, mix with it a little isinglass and a little sugar ; then mix that with the créme fouettée, and fill your mould which cover all round with ice. N. 8.-- Fromage au Café. i --(SEE crémes, the mode of infusing coffee). You only use one half of your cream, which, when cold, you mix with the other half. Beat the whole on the ice, add tlie isinglass, and then fill your mould, &c. &c. OBSERVATION.—The fromages made of fruit deserve the preference over all others. But in the winter season, for a grand dinner or supper, when a great variety becomes requisite, infusions then may be recurred to. NO 9.- Des Gelées marbrées. .. This method of making a jelly will answer the purpose of economy, as for instance, if you have a little orange jelly left, and that on the preceding day you have served up a créme à la vénitienne, keep this latter in a very cool place'; cut it into unequal pieces, the same as the orange .' 2 G 2 ect 452 jelly : put the whole into à mould, which shake å little. When your pieces are well mixed, melt a little orange jelly: mind not to throw it into the mould till it be quite cold, for otherwise the white jelly mixed with the orange jelly would be made quite livid; whereas if you pay proper attention this jelly will be equally good and pleasing to the eye. N. 1o.-Crème au Café marbrée. . When you have prepared your cream as indi- cated above, you have a little very brown cara- mel ready take about half of your cream at caffé to which you add a little caramel, so that the one may be of a darker colour than the other. You then take a mould rubbed over inside with oil, which you lean sideways, and put a little white cream into it; when that has acquired á good substance, you likewise throw in some of the brown cream, and so on alternately till the mould be quite full. You then cover the mould all over with ice. When you are ready to serve up, rub it with a towel dipped into hot water, the same as you have done the Mosaique. (See above, Jellies, N: 8). N. 10. - Crême marbrée, Vanille blanche et Chocolat. Make both crémes separately as indicated 453 above, Try whether they be of the same sub- stance, for if one should be thicker than the other, they would separate in the dish. Rub your mould gently over with oil, give the mould a sloping direction, and pour a little vanilla cream into it; when that is made of a good substance, put in a little chocolate cream, and so on alternately, till the mould be entirely full. Now cover the mould with ice. When you want to dish those creams you must always use the wet hot towel, and those jellies always look very pleasant if they be well made and bright. - ense PATISSERIES CHAUDES ET FROIDES. It will not be amiss to observe in this place that notwithstanding the immense nymbur of articles of pastry that are to be made, you nearly always act upon the same principle. It rests with the intelligent workman to multiply the shapes and forms, for with regard to the taste it will always be found to be a compound of butter, flower, sugar, &c. The various sweet- meats that serve for garnishing pastry, most essentially contribute to improve its appearance and savour. However, the feuilletage, which is sent up to table in above a hundred different figures, can only be made in one single way ; that implies that you make it more or less fine. 2 G 3 454 You may make it lighter if you use a great deal of butter, but then it has less substance. I shall treat of the different påtes. The baking of pastry requires particular attention. You must be well acquainted with your oven to be enabled to send up nice pastry. The best prepared paste,, if not properly baked will be good for nothing therefore I recommend paying the greatest atten- tion to the various observations contained in this present book. NO 1.-Pate brisée, pour les Pâtes froids et chauds. It is not possible to indicate or determine the exact quantity of paste to be made for a pie, since it depends solely upon the size the pie is to be. Take two pounds of flour, half a pound of fresh butter, and when your flour has been properly sifted, spread it round on a table or dresser. Make a large hole in the centre, into which throw a large pinch of salt. Break a couple of eggs entire into that centre, and work the but- ter well with your hand, before you mix it with the paste ; when it is made malleable, or soft, break it into small pieces with your fingers and throw those in with the eggs; you then pour in a little water to melt the salt ; now work your paste well with your hands, and make it as firm 455 eans as possible, for if it were not very firm you never could erect the circumference or flank works of a pie. Now I have found out a method equally easy and expeditious of erecting those walls, for I will venture to call them so, by which means they never tumble or shrink, as is too often the case under the management of many unskilful pastry-cooks. Take a piece or lump of paste, proportionate to the size of the pie you are to make; mould your paste in the shape of sugar-loaf, lay it erect on the table, then with the palm of your hands - flatten the sides of your paste ; always keep the middle high erect; when you have equalized it. all round, and that your paste is quite smooth, squeeze the middle of the point nearly about half the height of it, and give it the shape of a hati thus it is kept quite even, and this is executed with so much celerity that you can make a dozen of them in an hour's time. Now, if you wish to make a pâte froid you trim the middle of your paste, and all round with layers of bacon cut of an equal size: lay those layers double all over except on th eborder, that you may leave 100m to stick the cover or upper crust on. First in- troduce some farce (see farces à pátés) ; next, as you have boned your game or poultry, season the middle well with salt, pepper, and allspice 2 G 4 456 as (see the contents), lard the most fleshy parts with slices of bacon highly seasoned, for it is to be observed that pies taste very insipid unless indeed they be highly seasoned. Now open your bird and spread your poultry or game on the table, some of the furce likewise; put plenty of salt, and close the fowl or pheasant to restore its former shape, lay it over the farce. If you dress more than one, mind they be all equally filled with the farce. Should you wish to jutro duce truffles, you mince some within the farce, and strew your pie equally with entire ones that have been well picked of their rind, yet always as much towards the top as possible, that they may be seen at the opening of the pie. As wealthy individuals never eat but the upper part of a páté, I am induced to recommend the tim- balle in preference. When your pie is quite full, you then cover it with bacon the same as you do to trim the sides, Fill all the cavities with butter. You next with the roller, spread a lump of paste of a size with your pie. Use the brush all round. Mind that the top be quite level. Stick the top or cover well over the border, make a hole, chimney pipe like, in the midd'e of this top or cover, and round that aperture stick a piece of paste made in the shape of a stick of sealing wax. Now cut some - 457. blades or leaves of paste, which are to be made as will be indicated hereafter. Place ihem close to each other round the aperture or hole, with- out stopping it, and observe to use a little water to make them stick. When you have done with the summit, pinch or squeeze the bottom part, and the circumference of the upper part ; deço, rate the sides or fanks to the best of your abili. ties. This, however, being only a matter of theory, it is impossible to enter into an expla- nation that would require volumes. .. N. B.--The feuilles (blades, leaves) are made in the following shape You must fold down the point marked , but not lay the leaves too flat. Glaze the whole with an egg entire well beaten. Next bake your pie in an oven that is not very hot. Four hours are re- quired to bake it: mind to watch its baking, and if it should assume too brown a colour, cover it with paper. PATE A L'EAU CHAUDE. Throw into an earthern-pan à sufficient quan- tity of flower to make as much paste as you shall bave occasion for. Pour some boiling water into a stew-pan with a large lump of butter and some salt. Lay the whole on the corner of the fire till the butter be entirely melted. As you are 458 to dilute your paste' with boiling water, use a wooden spoon to beat it, but mind you do not make it too soft: when you have beat it well with the spoon first, remove the paste from the earthern-pan, work it well on the table, and place it for a moment before the fire that you may work it more easily. With this paste you may make either cold or hot pies, as indicated above (see pâte brisée). This paste indeed does not taste so nice as the other, but you may work it with greater facility, and it is not liable to so many accidents. FEUILLETAGE. Take the same quantity of butter as of flower, so that if you use two pounds of the one you must also use two pounds of the other ; and so in a like proportion. Weigh two pounds of flower, which shake through a sieve ; then lay it on the table and make a very large hole in the middle, throw in a little pinch of salt and a few small pieces of butter; use a little cold water to melt the salt, take water enough to make your paste of the same consistence as your butter. IR winter time you must make the paste very firm, because then the butter is so. In summer time you must make your paste very soft on account of the butter being so. The reason why you 461 cutters into different shapes : if intended for entrées you brush your paste over with yolks of eggs, but you do not glaze it. Hereby glaze is meánt, that when the pastry is baked and emptied, to powder it oùer with some fine pounded sugar and to use the red hot salaman- der, or put it into the oven in case it should be very hot. P rii. : : .. : PATE À BRIOCHES. : .. 2 In Paris we call to make a brioche with twelve pounds of butter, as we reckon a bushel of flower to weigh sixteen pounds. In this case we take sixty eggs, we ascertain whether they be áll good, and to these we add a quarter of a pound of salt, the same quantity of sugar, and half a pound of yeast, &c. "It is not always requisite to make the brioche so fine. You may take fifteen good fresh eggs, fout pounds of flower and two pounds of fresh butter. Pirst have your flower on the table after you have sifted it. Divide it into four equal parts ; take one of those to make your levain, make a hole in the centre, and use some yeast that'has been well washed. What we call washing the yeast, is to pour some water over it, to 'stir it, and then let it stand still. When all the dregs are at the bottom of the vessel, you 463 S the middle of the table; when you have thus worked the whole of your paste, you bring it back again towards the edge, and fraisez it a second time; you now bring it near the edge of the table again, and pour your yeast all over your paste, and next divide the whole into small pieces, or quantities which you shift from one place to another this operation is practised in order to mix the yeast with the paste. You now fraisez your paste well again twice, and ga- ther the whole up together. Take a large sieve or an earthen pan, into which you spread a towel open, powder a little flower over the towel, and put - your paste in, which cover with the towel; in sum- • mer time remove your paste to a cool place, and in winter time to a warm one. Observe that the paste is better when made on the preceding day, and take care to break your paste at different times before you use it: you then cut it into equal pieces, which you shape with the palms of your hand ; lay these on the less even size, shape off small balls which you turn in the same manner, brush them over with a beaten egg ; you then make a little hollow, put the small ball over it, brush twice over with the egg, and bake it in a hot oven. . If you wish to make a large brioche, you must make a very large round paper case ; mind to well butter your paper, and next mould 464 your paste accordingly. Make a head as for the small one, and bake in a hot oven, but less hof however than is used for the small ones, for the larger your articles of pastries are, the less must your oven be hot. The borders of your brioche, or pies, &c. would burn before the middle part could hardly be made hot. When you perceive that your brioche has colour enough, if it should not be thoroughly baked, cover it with paper without losing sight of the colour. This same paste may serve to make all sorts of little entre- mets, such as: Les petites nattes en gateauč de Nanterre ; Les petits pains sucrés. To these you only add a little sugar and some currants. If you make them of different shapes you give them different names, and by this means you make a multiplicity of entremets ; however you have many enough at your disposal already, without introducing many sorts of brioches. . GATEAU. DE COMPIEGNE. The same paste as for the brioches ; you only keep it more liquid with some hot milk. Put in a few raisins and currants. This cake is made in a mould well trimmed with butter. 466 you throw them into the sugar, it is a sign of their being dry enough. Rub a mould slightly over with oil or butter, then take some almonds which lay in beds as thin, as possible ; take a lemon to press upon your almonds; but be quick, otherwise the almonds will be cool, and then cannot be worked so thin. The nougat re- quires being light, to be made to perfection. ENTREMETS SUCRÉS, ET PATISSERIES CHAUDES. MERINGUES SÉCHES. It is to be observed that the meringues to be well made require the eggs to be fresh, and that you are not to break them until the very moment when you are going to use them. Put a spoonful of sugar to every white; six whites are sufficient for an entremets. Have some pounded sugar that is quite dry, break your eggs in a clean and very deep pan, beat your whites without loss of time, till they be very firm, then take as many spoonfuls of sugar as you have eggs, and beat them with the eggs till the whole be well mixed. Observe that you are to be very expeditious in making your me- ringues, to prevent the sugar from melting in 467 the eggs. Have some boards thick enough to prevent the bottom of your meringues getting baken in the oven. Cut slits of paper two inches broad on which lay your meringues with a spoon; give them the shape of an egg cut in halves, and let them all be of an equal size: sift some sugar over the meringues and blow off the sugar that may have fallen on the paper; now lay your slits of paper on a board, and bake them in an oven moderately hot. As soon as they begin to colour remove them from the oven : take each slit of paper by both extremities, turn them gently on the table; take off a little of the mid- dle with a small spoon. Spread some clean paper on the board, turn your meringues upside down on that paper, and put them into the oven that the crumb or soft part may be baked and get a substance. When you have gone through this operation for the whole, you put them in a dry place to use them when wanted. When you send them up to table, you fill them with créme à la chantilli, or with something acid. Remem- ber however that you are not to use articles that are very sweet, the meringues being sweet by their nature. Mind that your spoon is to be filled with sugar to the brim, for the sweeter the meringues are, the better and crisp they are. . 2 H 2 ', . 468 MERINGUES AU MARASQUIN AU SUCRE CHAUD. · For a pound of sugar take the whites of five eggs, and clarify your sugar as indicated in its place. Reduce it almost au cassé, then let it cool whilst you beat your eggs, and pay atten- tion to beat them well; you next put them with your sugar. Take a new wooden spoon, and when the sugar begins to get cool you mix your eggs with it, but mind they be well mixed; you then mix two spoonfuls of marasquin with the whole ; dress your meringues on some paper as you have done above, and glaze them with some sugar sifted over, before you put them into the oven, which, by the bye, is not to be so hot as for the other meringues. As soon as the top gets a substance or is no more liquid, take them off the paper, stick two together, and put them into the hot closet to get dry. Leave the liquor in the middle. PATE À GIMBLETTES. I INTRODUCE the gimblettes next to the me- ringues, because this kind of paste is made with the yolks of eggs only, whereas the whites only are used in making the meringues. It is by his adherence to those principles of economy that a good cook distinguishes himself. For eight yolks take two ounces of butter, half a 469 pound of flower, a pinch of salt, and a little milk. Work the paste' with your hand on the table. Add to it a little rasped lemon peel, or a little flower of oranges. Cut the paste into small pieces, which roll up the size of your little finger, and make rings with them ; soudez as it were with a little dorure, (yolks of eggs well beaten, (or omelette). Now rub a plafond over with butter, on which lay your gimblettes, Mind that they are all of an equal size, Brush them twice over with the omelette, and bake them in an oven that is but very moderately hot. This paste undergoes no effect whilst in the oven ; let it get quite dry, for gimblettes require being made crusty. PATE ROYALE, DITE À CHỌUX. This paste is one of the forts bases of pastry; it is used to make an infinite number of entremets of various forms, and of different de- nominations, I shall first explain the manner of making it; next I shall enumerate briefly its manifold appellations. Take a stew-pan large enough to contain three pints of water ; pour half a pint of water into it with a quarter of a pound or a little more fresh butter, two ounces of sugar, a little salt, and the peel of a lemon : let the whole boil till the 2H 3 470 butter be entirely melted. Then take some of the finest flower that is very dry, and shake it through a sieve. Take the lemon peel out with a ladle, and throw a handful of flower in the preparation whilst boiling ; however pay atten- tion not to put more Alower than the liquor can soak. Stir with a wooden spoon till the pasto can easily be detached from, or, no longer sticks to the stew-pan or to the spoon : you then take it off from the fire. Next break an egg into your paste and mix it well; then break a second which you mix likewise ; do not put more eggs than the paste can absorb, yet mind you do not make your preparation too liquid. It is almost certain that between five or six eggs will be wanted for the quantity as aforesaid. You then form them en chour, by which is meant in the shape of a ball one inch in circum- ference. As this paste swells very much you must dress it accordingly. Abroad we use the technical word coucher, and we say coucher les chour, les biscuits, &c. but when in a foreign country we must as much as possible adopt the expressions there in common use, I therefore say, dress, which is to put the choux on a plafond at one inch distance from one another, in order that they may undergo a greater effect in the oven. Brush them over as usual with an ome- lette, (this we call dorer) to which you have added a little milk. Put them into an oven moderately hot, and do not open the oven till they be quite baked, otherwise they would flat- ten, lower, and in vain would you attempt to have them rise again : next make them dry. Sometimes you may glaze them; at other times you may send them up without being glazed. To detach them from off the plafond, you apply the sharp edge of your knife, and take them off gently. You then make a small opening on the side, into which you introduce with a tea- spoon, such sweetmeats as you think proper, and send up dished en buisson. N. B.-Be cautious to smell every egg before you use them, for a bad one will spoil them all. LES PETITS CHOUX PRALINÉs. The same paste as above, only when your choux are dressed on the plafond and dorés, you have some sweet almonds chopped very fine, which you mix with a little pounded sugar ; these you powder over your paste. Now turn your plafond and powder again with the almonds ; next bake and garnish with sweet- meats, as indicated above. LES GIMBLETTES À LA D'Artois. The same as paste above, with this only san 2 H 4 474 . CHOUX EN BISCUITS, DITS GATEAUX À LA D'Artois. Take a pint of thin cream, which boil in a stew-pan that may contain four quarts, with a little salt, a little sugar, a pinch of flowers of oranges prdlinées, and two ounces of fresh but. ter. When your cream has boiled, skim off the flowers of oranges. Take some flower that has been sifted through a silk sieve ; throw a handful into the boiling cream. If the cream can absorb more, put a little more to dry on the fire, and keep stirring with the wooden spoon till the paste no longer sticks to it. Now take five very fresh eggs, break three of them entire alternately, and stir quick; then you throw in the other two yolks only, but as that is not sufficient to moisten your paste properly, you add as much thick cream to it as the paste can imbibe. Do not make your paste too liquid, dress as you would biscuits, dorex with a thin omelette, and put your choux into the oven. When they are baked glaze them first with sugar; next use the salamander, and serve up hot. N. B.-This method is quite plain, but it cannot be altered. You may stick two together with apricot marmalade. OBSERVATION.- When you have succeeded sa far as to make your pâte royale well, it only requires a small share of abilities to vary your entremets. You may make a hole on the top in the middle, and fill it with créme pâtissière, and put it into the oven again. Another time if you wish to make rocks, or croquantes, you manage to frame the doors or' apertures, by erecting small choux one above another in the shape of an arch; your prdlinex them with chopped almonds, which you have made of a green colour by means of using le verd d'épinards, and that you have subsequently dried. You may also shape them into sheaves. Make your choux very small yet long. Then with the sugar au cassé stick one round on the dish, and alternately another on the border of the dish to strengthen the structure. The choux are not to be of an equal length in this case. Mind with the point of a knife to put a little melted sugar all along the bátonets (sticks) to prevent their breaking. Fill the middle with the cream à la chantilli, with which you mix a little marasquin. If you should have a little sugar left, sprinkle it gently into a buttered mould to cover the cream. LE BISCUIT DE SAVOIE. "Take a dozen of fresh eggs, break them into a vessel that you may put into another containing some hot water. With those eggs mix a pound 976 of superfine pounded sugar. Beat them well in the vessel which stands in the hot water. When you perceive that your eggs are no longer soft, put three-quarters of a pound of flower into a silk sieve not very close woven; mix your flower well with the eggs, which is to be done by means of shaking the sieve, then add about two spoon. fuls of flower of orange water. If you only use lemon put in a spoonful of cold water. Rub a mould over with butter ; powder some sugar round, fill that mould with your preparation, powder some sugar round your mould, and bake it in an oven moderately hot. Ascertain with a little skewer whether the middle part be suf- ficiently baked. If the biscuit be not of a very large size, it will be baked enough in three- quarters of an hour's time. Biscuits like other pastries of a greater magnitude, require the oven not to be so hot, and therefore must be kept in a longer time. PATE À TARTE, DITE D'OFFICE. SPREAD on the table two handfuls of flower, two spoonfuls of pounded sugar, a pinch of salt, an ounce of butter, and a little water to melt the salt. Make a hole in the middle ; break two eggs entire besides the yolk of one egg more; mix your paste well, and it will serve you for 477 making tartes, tartelettes, and for mounting croquantes. You increase the quantity of in- gredients according to the quality of paste you " may have occasion for. PAT MANDE PATE D'AMANDE. - Take a pound of sweet almonds, blanch them in boiling water ; take off the peel and put them in a mortar, pound them very well, and add a little water to prevent them turning into oil ; after they are very fine and quite in a paste, put in three-quarters of a pound of sugar well pounded; pound all together in the mortar. If your paste is quite fine, take it from the mortar and put it into a stew-pan over a slow fire, and stir with a wooden spoon till your paste becomes white and dry; now put your paste into a pot you have taken care to keep covered, in order to prevent your paste from drying. OVE some rem TARTELETTE DE CONFITURE. · TAKE some remnant of puff paste, which spread on the table with the rolling-pin; have some tartelette mould well buttered ; cut some paste with the paste cutter, the same shape as the tartelette mould lay this paste to each mould, put a tea spoonful of apricot marmalade 479 as the tartelette ; butter the mould with very Iittle butter, and then put it in the oven when not very hot. After the paste is done quite white, you take them off from the mould and garnish them with currant jelly, raspberry jam, or apri- cot, &c. As the sweetmeats do not go to the oven, they are always of a better colour and better taste. GAUFRES À LA FLAMANDE. Take a pound of fresh butter, a pound of fine flower, six or seven eggs; mix first the eggs with the butter in a bason, put to it a little salt, sift the flower over the eggs and butter, add to it a spoonful of yeast; mix with all that a pint of double cream, work it well with your hand, put the bason on the dresser till dinner-time. Have your gaufre mould greasy with some fat bacon for the first only, the other comes out very easy without any other grease. After they are all made, you pour some fine sugar over just at the time you send them to the table, for if you put the sugar sooner it will inake them. soft. . TART OF FRUIT, ENGLISH FASHION. Take some puff paste which lay over the table, spread it with the rolling pin, aud have some ve some • 480 fruit ready in a dish with some sugar and a little water. Cut your paste the same shape as your baking dish roll ; over your rolling pio, and then put this paste over the fruit. Before you put your paste over the dish you must brush the border of the dish with some. dorure, in order to stick the paste ; when you have trim- med your dish all round, you put the white of one egg, you spread part of it over the tart and sift some sugar over the eggs; then dip your paste brush in the water, shake your brush over the sugar and do the same over the tart; bake it very well and serve it always cold. For Roasting, it is almost unnecessary to give any advice about it; almost every individual understands how to roast a joint; the only ob- servation is, a large joint wants the fire mode- rate; for a small one the fire must be very sharp. Game in general must be under done; and with respect to poultry that should be thoroughly done. Roasted meat should always have a good colour, which depends upon keeping your fire very equal, so as to give an uniform colour to every part of it. THE END. Printed by Cox and Baylis, 75, Great Queen Street, Lincoln seinn-Fields.